Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 50

Can Dogs Have Imodium for Diarrhea?

0
Goldendoodle puppy feeling unwell.
A dog with ongoing diarrhea is going to have a lack of appetite and likely be lethargic. Rather than reaching for Imodium, consult your veterinarian. Credit: Oscar Wong | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can be given Imodium to treat diarrhea. However, it can have some unpleasant side effects if the dog is given too high of a dose for their size and may not be the best option depending on the cause of the diarrhea.

Can Dogs Have Imodium: Yes, but…

Loperamide, known by the brand name Imodium, works to control diarrhea in dogs by slowing down the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. This can help to resolve the diarrhea by giving the stool more time to firm up, but it doesn’t address the underlying cause of the diarrhea.

Imodium should not be used if your dog’s diarrhea was caused by a bacterial infection or eating something toxic, according to the Plumb’s Veterinary Drug Handbook, Eighth Edition. Slowing the GI tract down in these instances could give the toxin or the infection more time to do damage to the dog’s system. Instead, your veterinarian will use other treatments to remove the toxin from your dog’s body or clear the infection and then address the diarrhea later if it continues, sometimes recommending foods like pumpkin for control.

Side Effects of Imodium in Dogs

Dogs with the MDR1 mutation should not be given Imodium, as they will struggle to metabolize it. Any dog could potentially have this mutation, but the most commonly affected breeds include Border Collies, Shelties, Silken Windhounds, and Australian Shepherds. If your dog only has one copy of the mutation, she should still either avoid Imodium or be given a lower dose.

Some potential side effects include:

  • Constipation
  • Bloat
  • Sedation or lethargy
  • Toxic megacolon
  • Pancreatitis
  • Central nervous system effects

Can Dogs Have Imodium Pills?

Imodium pills may be appropriate for large dogs. Small and toy breed dogs usually require a liquid formula to get an accurate dose for their size. If considering a liquid product, always check the inactive ingredients for things that may be harmful for your dog such as the artificial sweetener xylitol.

Can Dogs Get Strep Throat from a Human?

Dogs can get throat infections like strep throat, but not from a human.
Dogs can get strep throat, sore throat, and even tonsilitis, but the bacterial causes are not normally shared between canines and humans. Credit: Martin Gallagher | Getty Images

You are unlikely to trade throat infections with your dog, but dogs can get strep throat, tonsillitis, and a plain old “sore throat.” In the family of Streptococcus bacteria, some bacteria prefer human throats, while others prefer canine throats.

Different Bacteria

Human strep throat is usually caused by Group A Streptococcus, while dogs are more susceptible to Group G Streptococcus. Dogs could, in theory, pass an infection between two people without getting sick themselves, but this is unlikely and can be avoided with basic hygiene such as washing hands and covering coughs and sneezes when sick.

Can Dogs Get Strep Throat?

Dog tonsillitis, or inflammation of the tonsils, occurs when a bacteria or virus either infects the tonsils directly or causes the dog to irritate their tonsils by coughing or vomiting. Thankfully, tonsillitis is much less common in dogs than in people.

Signs of dog tonsillitis include:

  • Red, swollen tonsils
  • Difficulty swallowing
  • Fever
  • Coughing or gagging
  • Lethargy
  • Poor appetite

The exact symptoms depend on the underlying cause of the tonsillitis. Periodontal disease is a common cause of bacteria in the mouth that can easily spread to the tonsils. Any disease that causes a cough or vomiting can also lead to tonsillitis.

Treating Dog Tonsillitis

If your dog has infected tonsils, your veterinarian will determine why your dog’s tonsils are inflamed. If the dog has dental disease, a dental cleaning is needed to clean the dog’s mouth. Viruses are treated with supportive care, and bacterial infections are treated with antibiotics.

You can protect your dog from tonsilitis and strep throat by keeping her up to date on core vaccines, avoiding contact with sick dogs, and providing regular dental care.

Current Contact Information

6
A list of news stories about dogs reunited with their families.
Technology like chipping allows missing dogs to be found, even if years have passed. Always something to feel good about. Credit: Nancy Kerns

Do you need a little burst of “feel good” chemicals or a boost on a difficult day? Here’s a fun exercise:  Go do an online search for these words” “dog reunited microchip” and read all the news articles that come up about dogs who were lost by their original families, and reunited with those families months, years, and even more than a DECADE later, thanks to microchips that were registered with their current contact information. Here are links to a few I just found:

 

 

“Missing Dog Reunited with Arizona Family After 12 Years”

“Stolen Dog Reunited With Family After 6 Years Thanks to Microchip”

“Valley Dog Reunited with Family After 12 years, Found 20 miles From Home”

Then, think about your dog’s microchip – he HAS an implanted identification microchip, doesn’t he? Is it currently registered with a microchip registration company? And if so, does the registry have your current contact information? You know, you can call the registry and ask . . .

Have you forgotten which registry that you registered the microchip with? Not a problem. Ask your vet or local shelter if you can bring your dog in and have him scanned. It just takes a few seconds and they won’t charge you! And they should be able to give you the manufacturer of the chip and contact information for that company. (But if they don’t you can use this link for a free microchip lookup-tool provided by the American Animal Hospital Association.) A shelter will also likely be able to tell you if and where it is registered – that is, if you registered the microchip when you got the dog . . . you did register the chip, didn’t you?

If you didn’t, no problem: You can register the chip at any time with any number of companies. All you need is the microchip number, which the scanner will give you. Here is a link to a list of microchip registries you can use to register your dog’s microchip. Our favorite is PetLink.net, which doesn’t charge for chip registration. (Edited to add: Follow the link, or make sure that you type in petlink dot NET, not petlink dot COM; the latter company does charge a fee for registration.) Some do, which is a tad worrisome, because what if you forget to pay them at some point?

Also, please go check your dog’s collar right now and make sure that the numbers on its ID tags are current. And if they aren’t, go order a new tag!

How to Get a Dog to Listen When Distracted

A golden retriever runs towards it's female owner during playtime in the park.
his is the dream: A dog who listens to our cues and easily complies with our requests, even outdoors in a distracting environment. But the dream doesn’t get accomplished overnight! Start small, training for your dog’s attention indoors with not-very-compelling distractions, and build on those successes. Photo by Srdjana1, Getty Images

Perhaps your dog responds to your cues reliably when you’re home, but as soon as you walk out your door, all his training flies out the window. You’re not alone; this is a common problem. Many dogs become highly distracted as soon as they step into the real world. You can teach him to focus around distractions – but the key is not starting the process in a highly distracting environment. 

Add Distractions Gradually

Ideally, you already use high-value reinforcers in your training. (If not, do!) Yummy food treats are a great choice. You can also use you dog’s favorite toys and play opportunities. The squeak of a squeaky toy is a great attention-getter!

Start your training sessions in a low-distraction environment (indoors) with high-value reinforcement. Reinforce lots of “Look at me” and also other behaviors your dog knows well, including his recall. If you want him to come to you past distractions outdoors, he needs to be able to rock it with distractions indoors, first.

Now introduce pre-arranged distractions that are of a medium-amount of interest to your dog, such as having your child skip by the area where you are working, or your partner dropping a box. The more variety of distractions you an employ, the better. Use high-value treats or favorite toys to reinforce looking at you if he gives you his attention when asked, or to get his attention if he doesn’t volunteer it. Try squeaking a squeaky toy for his attention, and when he looks at you, start playing with the toy; then play with the toy with him.

Work at this level until he quickly and reliably looks at you when you ask for attention. Then gradually increase working with him in the face of all sorts of distractions until he can focus on you indoors, even with children running, balls bouncing, and more.

Focus Outside

When your dog is successfully orienting to you and able to listen to your cues in the face of distractions indoors, take the work outside. Again, start with fewer, low-level distractions until he shows that he can be attentive in the face of those things. Then gradually increase the distraction level as he succeeds with various new stimuli. Reinforce him for any attention he gives you! As you add distractions, practice other known behaviors (especially his favorites!) including coming when called, so he’ll be reliable with all of them.

With time and your commitment to working with your dog, you’ll have a canine pal who is super-focused even with a circus of activities happening around you.

More Distraction Training Tips

Here are some more quick tips to help with focus and attention:

  1. “Walk Away” is a fun game and dogs love it, so it works beautifully to get your dog’s attention away from something he’s really focused on. See this article on how to teach this game.
  2. Use the “Premack Principle,” where a less likely behavior is reinforced by a more likely behavior. “If you looks at me and sit when asked, you (sometimes) get to go chase the bunny!” (For more information, see the Premack Principle section in “Beyond Basic Dog Training.”)
  3. Use a “naked squeaker.” Buy squeakers without toys online, or rescue them from toys your dog has disemboweled. Keep one in your pocket and give it a brief squeak or two at opportune times, then reinforce with treats or play.

Success!

Most important, as with all force-free training, set up your dog to succeed. Create environments with distraction levels where he is able to pay attention so you can reinforce him for his lovely behavior and convince him you are worth his focus even around bigger distractions.

Crate Training Tips

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate is an invaluable management tool. It is an artificial den for your dog that makes housetraining a breeze and gives your dog a safe place where he can stay. Here are some tips to remember:

  • It should never be a place of punishment.
  • Your dog may adjust more easily to stays at the vet hospital when he can take his portable bedroom with him.
  • Puppies can be crate trained with relative ease, so start early.
  • Crates should be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably.
  • Start with the door open and just toss the treats inside.
  • Gradually toss the treats further and further until he is stepping in to get them. At this point you can use verbal cues, such as “go to bed”.
  • When your dog is staying in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door and latch it. Then step away from the crate.
  • When you are not actively training, leave the crate door open.

For more details and advice on crate training, download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Crate Training Made Easy.

Panicking in the Crate

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

This is very different from demand barking. Some dogs, particularly many of those with separation anxiety (SA), can’t tolerate the close confinement of a crate. They experience a full-blown panic attack, and frantically try to escape from their prison.

A panicked dog’s efforts to escape from his mental and emotional anguish may include hysterical, non-stop barking and howling – for hours and hours without pause; frantic attempts to bite and claw his way out – often breaking teeth and ripping out nails in the process; and stress-induced urination and defecation – which he proceeds to paint all over the walls of his crate as he thrashes around.

Solution to panic: Don’t crate!

You cannot subject a panicked dog to these conditions. You must address the SA problem through behavior modification, and may someday be able to use a crate with your dog, if you are successful in modifying the SA. In the meantime, look for doggie daycare-type management solutions.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

Say Goodbye to Crate Anxiety

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click!, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

How To Get Your Dog To Go Into the Crate

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

To get your dog to go into the crate, start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click! the clicker (or say “Yes!” if you are using a verbal marker).

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

How Long Can a Puppy Stay in Their Crate?

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

A crate is inappropriate for long-term confinement. While some puppies are able to make it through an eight-hour stretch in a crate at night, you should be sleeping nearby and available to take your pup out if he tells you he needs to go.

During the day, a puppy should not be asked to stay in a crate longer than two to four hours at a time; an adult dog no more than six to eight hours. Longer than that and you risk forcing Buddy to eliminate in his crate, which is a very bad thing, since it breaks down his instinctive inhibitions against soiling his den.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

Should I Use a Crate To Discipline My Dog?

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

A crate is not a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don’t yell at him, throw him in the crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

Benefits of Crate Training

Crate Training Made Easy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

When the crate is properly introduced using positive training methods, most dogs love their crates. Canines are den animals and a crate is a modern den – a dog’s personal portable bedroom that he can retire to when he wants to escape from the trials and tribulations of toddlers and other torments. He can take it with him when he stays at boarding kennels, and when he travels with you and sleeps in hotels and motels.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

Symptoms of Hip Displaysia

Complete Healthy Dog Handbook Book from Whole Dog Journal

My six-month-old Rottweiler has a goofy, bouncy walk. Does that mean she has hip dysplasia?

A lot of puppies – especially big, gangly ones – have a clumsy, bumbling gait, and this does not mean they have hip dysplasia. If your puppy had a hip dysplasia, you might notice that she limps sometimes, especially after strenuous exercise. You might hear or feel her hips “click” in and out, or notice that she stands and walks with her hocks or hind feet very close together. You might notice her struggling to push herself up into a standing position when she’s lying down, or she might have trouble climbing stairs.

The way vets assess a puppy for hip dysplasia is by looking for a limp as the puppy walks and runs, then checking whether the hip can easily be pushed out of position in the socket (this feels like a “click” and is called the Ortolani sign).

If there’s a suspicion of a problem – or if owners simply want more information – x-rays can be taken to check for hip dysplasia. Although a six-month-old puppy whose hips looked normal on plain x-rays might still develop hip dysplasia later, signs of the disease are often visible at this age. These x-rays are taken with the dog lying on her back in a frog-leg position. The puppy is sedated for a few minutes while the x-rays are taken. Sedation is required to relax the hip and thigh muscles and keep the dog in proper position for accurate x-rays. These x-rays can also be taken while a pup is under anesthesia for spaying or neutering.

On the x-rays, the vet will look at whether the head of the femur is smooth and round and fits snugly into the pelvis. In a puppy with severe hip dysplasia, the head of the femur may be out of the socket, or it may be obviously flat or misshapen.

Looseness in the hip joint – another sign of dysplasia – is measured by PennHIP x-rays. Very loose hips are a sign of dysplasia, and a good indication that a dog will develop arthritis over time.

You have a puppy of a breed that is known to have a high incidence of hip dysplasia, and you’re obviously concerned about it. If you haven’t already asked your vet to evaluate the puppy for hip dysplasia, I encourage you to do so. If her hips are normal, you’ll be reassured, and if they are abnormal, you’ll have surgical options for correcting the problem before arthritis sets in.

For answers to all your canine health questions – big and small – buy The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M from Whole Dog Journal.

Latest Blog

Is it Really Separation Anxiety?

I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!