Excerpted from The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook, by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M.
“I feed my two dogs together, and the smaller one seems to gobble her food without chewing it and then throws it back up a few minutes later. Why does she do this?”
She may be worried that if she doesn’t wolf down her food, your other dog will get some of it. This is rational fear, but her coping strategy isn’t ideal. How about feeding your dogs in separate rooms so the little one feels less pressured by the presence of the bigger dog? If she still eats so fast that she vomits even when she eats in private, then spread out her food over a large surface (such as a cookie sheet) or in several small bowls in different parts of the room so she can’t hoover up her entire meal in one breath. And if you now feed your dogs only once a day, divide the food into two or three smaller meals per day instead. Knowing that her next meal is just around the corner may help your gobbler to relax and enjoy her food less anxiously.
If these measures don’t work and the vomiting continues, make an appointment with your vet to check into the possibility that she’s regurgitation rather than vomiting.
For answers to all your canine health questions – big and small – buy The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M from Whole Dog Journal.
Once your dog knows a behavior well, and can perform it in many locations and with many distractions, you can fade the use of your marker signal and rewards. In other words, you don’t need to click and treat every time your dog sits for you. However, it’s also important to pay off every now and then to keep your dog in the game and gambling. “This time might be the time the reward happens, so I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing, just in case.”
Here’s an example of how you can fade the use of treats when using a verbal marker while teaching a behavior like “sit”:
Ask your dog to “Sit.”
As his butt hits the ground, say, “Good boy,” give a treat (praise and treat paired together) and release him with a release cue such as, “All done.”
Ask your dog to sit again, but just say, “Good boy,” without the treat (builds anticipation of the treat), and release him.
The next time, give the treat after your verbal praise (score!).
Ask for the sit once again and give the treat again after your verbal praise (score again!).
Use just the verbal praise for a couple of rounds, and so on until your are only using treats occasionally but still getting good responses from your dog.
You can also add in other rewards that your dog likes, such as asking him to sit and when he does, saying “Good boy,” and throwing a ball or playing a little tug. You could also open a door, pet him, or allow him access to something like the car if he enjoys car rides. These are called “real life” rewards, and anything your dog wants or likes can and should become a reward as you progress in your training.
Reducing the use of food rewards should be a goal, but always be ready to go back to using more or better treats when you add more distractions, duration, or distance to a behavior – at least until your dog has a clear understanding that this is the same training as before, just in different context. If a well-trained behavior falls apart when you go out into the world, that’s information for you. It’s time to help your dog by going back to food – usually a high value reward.
Once your dog demonstrates that he can stay focused on the task at hand, you can switch to a lower value food as long as you maintain the successes you achieved with the high-value food in that same location or with the same distractions.
Once you have decided to use fewer treats, bear in mind that never using treats again would be like asking yourself to give up ice cream, cake, or other goodies. There is nothing wrong with using food to reward your dog, just use it to your advantage – to help him get better with his skills. Sometimes it is fun to give your dog a treat, just like it is fun for us to get unexpected rewards. Also, if your dog does something really amazing that you would like repeated, then food is the best paycheck you can give him to keep him in your employment.
For more advice on training your dog, purchase Chill Out Fido! from Whole Dog Journal.
Here is how I initially teach hand signals for Down, Sit, and Come. I encourage my students to start with big hand signals, like the ones most people use in obedience competition. No one wants to risk having their dog miss the signal from across the ring!
Down: Hold a treat in your right hand. With your dog sitting in front of you, stand with both arms relaxed at your sides. Raise your right arm straight up. A second after your arm reaches its full height, fingers pointed toward the ceiling, say your verbal “Down” cue. Pause for another second. If your dog does not lie down, lower your right hand to his nose and lure him down with the treat. Click! (or “Yes!”) and treat. Repeat this exercise until he will lie down for the hand signal and verbal cue without the lure. When he has done at least a half dozen downs without the lure, give the hand signal (arm raised) without the verbal cue. If he goes down, Click! and Jackpot! That is, feed him lots of treats, one at a time, in special recognition of his ac- complishment. If he doesn’t lie down, do another dozen repetitions with both cues, and then try again with just the hand signal. You will probably be surprised by how quickly he does it.
Sit: Hold a treat in your left hand this time. With your dog lying down in front of you, stand with both arms relaxed at your sides. Bring your left arm up in a circular motion in front of your chest with your elbow bent, then straighten it out to your left side, parallel to the ground, in a “ta-da!” sort of flourish. A second after your arm straightens, say your verbal “Sit” cue. Pause for another second. If your dog does not sit, bring your arm down and lure him up with the treat in your hand. Click! (or “Yes!”) and treat. Repeat until he will sit for just the hand signal and verbal cue without the lure. When he has done at least a half dozen sits with- out the lure, give the hand signal (arm raised) without the verbal cue. If he sits, Click! and Jackpot! If he doesn’t, do another dozen repetitions with both cues, and then try again with just the hand signal. Keep repeating until he gets it. Then practice this from the “Stand” position as well.
Come: If your dog is well trained, you can leave him on a sit- or down-stay and walk five feet away. If his stay is not rock-solid, have someone hold him on a leash while you walk away. Turn and face him, with your arms at your sides and a treat in your right hand. Fling your right arm up and out to your side, as if you wanted to smack someone standing behind you. A second after your arm is out and parallel to the ground, say your verbal “Come!” cue. If he does not come, hold your arm parallel to the ground for another second, then bend your elbow and sweep the treat past his nose, ending up with your hand in front of your chest. If necessary, take a step or two back to encourage your dog to get up and come to you. Repeat this exercise until he will come for the hand signal and verbal cue without the lure. When he has done at least six or so recalls with- out the lure, give the hand signal without the verbal cue. If he comes, Click! and Jackpot! If he doesn’t, do another dozen repetitions with both cues, and then try again with just the hand signal. When he starts responding, begin practicing the hand-signal “Come” from increasingly greater distances.
For more advice on ways to live with a dog who is losing his hearing, purchase Canine Hearing Loss from Whole Dog Journal.
Owners of deaf dogs frequently relate that their biggest challenge is getting their dogs’ attention, whether at home or out in the world. Here are some tips for getting a deaf dog’s attention (these tips work well with dogs who hear, too.)
Hand signal for his name
Just as you teach a dog to respond to “Max” or “Spot,” you can teach a deaf dog to respond to a signal that means, “I’m talking to you now.” A simple finger point or a wave will each work and are easy to teach, but any signal will do.
To teach that the finger point or wave means “Max,” start by simply pointing or waving at the dog, then offering a reward such as a great treat.
Throughout your daily life, use his “name signal” much as you would a verbal name. If you are about to feed your dog, point or wave in her direction, then walk to the kitchen and prepare his dinner. Before walks, point or wave to your dog, then get out the leash.
Soon the dog will respond to the hand signal just as a hearing dog would respond to the sound of his name spoken verbally.
For more advice on ways to live with a dog who losing his hearing, purchase Canine Hearing Loss from Whole Dog Journal.
If we’re fortunate enough to have them live to old age, at some point, most of our canine companions begin to lose their hearing and may eventually be, for all intents and purposes, deaf. It’s painful to watch a beloved dog become less and less responsive to his environment because he’s unaware of what’s going on around him, and even more so when it limits your ability to communicate with him. The thought of a hearing-impaired dog wandering off and not being able to hear your calls is frightening.
Here are some things you can do if your dog’s hearing isn’t what it used to be:
Use hand signals. Every time our dogs reach the old-age-can’t-hear stage I appreciate having taught them basic hand signals as well as verbal cues. Since dogs communicate primarily through body language, hand signals are easy to teach, especially if you do it when your dog can still hear well. As your dog ages, it’s a great opportunity to expand your visual cue vocabulary.
Some owners use American Sign Language (ASL) to communicate with their hearing- impaired dogs.
Run interference at home. This is all about management. If you have a multi-dog household, one or more of your other dogs make take offense when your geriatric pal doesn’t respond quickly enough to their signals – because he doesn’t hear them, and therefore doesn’t look and notice their body language. Manage your household to prevent encounters that cause tension due to his lack of hearing and subsequent lack of response. This often includes keeping potential problem dogs separated when you are not home.
For more advice on ways to live with a dog who losing his hearing, purchase Canine Hearing Loss from Whole Dog Journal.
Like all yeasts, candida thrives on sugars, including those from grains, starches, and other carbohydrates. Beneficial bacteria (such as Lactobacillus acidophilus) metabolize sugars, which keeps candida in check by disrupting its food supply. A shortage of beneficial bacteria results in a sugar-rich environment and an abundance of Candida albicans.
Once a candida overgrowth occurs, it becomes a vicious cycle. Candida cells overwhelm whatever beneficial bacteria survive in the digestive tract or are introduced as supplements, and a diet high in carbohydrates keeps the candida population strong and in control.
Candida is a formidable enemy because its cells manufacture toxic chemicals that kill beneficial bacteria and harm the body. Candida’s waste products include toxic alcohols, acetone, and the nerve poison hydrogen sulfide, all of which slow the brain, contribute to fatigue, and disrupt the immune system.
Candida symptoms are often misdiagnosed as allergies, says Arndt, manifesting as rashes or skin outbreaks on the feet, face, underarm, underbelly, or genital areas. Recurring hot spots or infections of the ears, eyes, bladder, or urinary tract can be caused by candida overgrowth.
For more information on keeping candida in check as well as the treatment and diagnoses of allergies in your dog, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Canine Allergies.
There are a few different types of tests available that purport to identify the allergens to which a dog is hyper sensitive; some of them are helpful and some are a waste of time and money. Since all of them are commonly referred to as “allergy tests,” few people know which ones are credible, and which ones are not. The following is a brief description of the types of tests available for allergy diagnosis.
Blood (serologic) tests for antigen-induced antibodies — Two different methods (RAST and ELISA) are used for the most common commercial test products used by veterinarians. Historically, the tests have been unreliable with lots of false positive and false negative results, though the technology has improved over the years.
Skin (intradermal) tests for environmental allergens — In an intradermal test, tiny amounts of a number of suspected or likely local allergens are injected just under a dog’s skin. Most veterinary dermatologists feel these tests are much more reliable than blood tests for antibodies. It should be noted that testing is more time-consuming and expensive, not to mention stressful for the dog, who must be observed very closely, several times, by a stranger!
Tests for food allergies — Both blood and skin tests for food allergies exist, but it’s difficult to find anyone (besides the companies that produce the tests) who feel the results are worth the paper they are printed on. It would be exciting and useful if it worked, but so far, the tests are a work in progress, with only an estimated 30 percent accuracy rate. Why bother when you can conduct a food elimination trial that will deliver much more accurate information about your dog’s food allergies.
For more information on diagnosing and treating allergies in your dog, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Canine Allergies.
Most holistic veterinary practitioners recommend switching any itchy dog to a complete and balanced home-prepared diet containing “real foods.” This will decrease the dog’s exposure to unnecessary or complex chemicals and give his body the opportunity to utilize the higher-quality nutrients present in fresh foods. Whether the diet is cooked or raw, the increased nutrient quality and availability of fresh whole foods will improve the health of any dog who currently receives even the best dry or canned foods.
“Feeding fresh, unprocessed, organic foods provides more of the building blocks for a healthy immune system,” says Dr. Lisa Pesch, a holistic veterinarian in Sebastopol CA. “Dogs who have allergies are more likely to be deficient in trace proteins and sugars (proteoglycans) that are used by the immune systems. Deficiencies in these nutrients will increase allergic response.”
For more information on diagnosing and treating allergies in your dog, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Canine Allergies.
Over a lifetime, chronic allergies can leave dogs depleted and irritable, with low-level infections constantly breaking out on their skin, feet, and in their ears; worn front teeth (from chewing themselves); and smelly, sparse coats that neither protect them well from the elements nor invite much petting and affection from their owners. Chronic allergies can also deplete an owner’s time and financial resources – especially if the owner fails to take the most effective path to helping her dog.
Unfortunately, most dog owners rely solely on their veterinarians to take care of the problem with a shot or a prescription or a special food; they are unaware that they are in the best position to help their dog in a significant way. While veterinary diagnostic and treatment skills will be important in the battle, it’s the owner’s dedication to his dog, acute observation skills, and meticulous home care that will ultimately win the war against allergies.
For more information on diagnosing and treating allergies in your dog, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Canine Allergies.
Left to their own devices, some dogs take a shortcut approach. Otto learned to pick up and drop puzzle toys, making many of the treats fall out without any further effort required. His puzzle-time had to be supervised in order for it to provide much enrichment.
There are several types of interactive dog toys that are designed to dispense food in order to engage dogs for extended periods of time. Some are filled with wet food (such as Kongs and Toppls) or covered with wet food (like lick mats) – and are sometimes frozen; the dog has to lick and chew the toy for a long time to extract all the food. Some have a hollow center that can be filled with a mix of kibble or dry treats; the food falls out of the toys through a hole or holes when the dog tosses or rolls the toys around (see the “Kibble-Dribbling” section in “The Best Food-Dispensing Dog Toys”).
The most complex enrichment toys for dogs are what we would call puzzle toys. These are the toys that require dogs to open compartments that are filled with food by manipulating the compartment covers in precise ways, rather than just licking or tossing the toy. The food-compartment covers might slide open – or slide open only after another piece is moved out of the way first. Some open only when the dog pulls on a string or handle, or dispense food when a lever or button is pressed. Some have multiple layers of food-holding compartments, requiring the dog to spin the layers in order to reveal more and more treats.
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What to look for in a dog puzzle toy
Be prepared to show your dog how the puzzle toy works. Woody kept sniffing and licking the compartment covers, but would not have figured out how to dispense more treats from the top of this toy (the Kubatis Puzzle Toy) had he not been urged him to “touch” the top with his paw (a behavior he knows on cue). Once prompted with that hint, he needed no further help.
The best dog puzzle toys are those with just the right amount of complexity for the average dog. If they are too easy to empty, your dog will be done eating all the treats before you can walk into the next room, defeating the purpose of proving some enrichment to a bored dog. But if the manipulations required by your dog are too difficult, he may just give up before getting all the treats – or, if he’s anything like my dog Otto, he may resort to destructive techniques rather than nuanced problem-solving. Otto was a great one for just picking up an entire puzzle and throwing it into the air so it would crash onto the floor, spilling treats everywhere.
Ideally, a dog has to use some creativity and persistence to reach all the food in the puzzle toy. And the toy has to be able to survive a creative and persistent dog! We’ve seen some cute, clever puzzle toys that can’t hold up to “real dog” conditions, with parts that can too easily be broken or chewed off. The best toys are sturdy, washable (preferably in a dishwasher!), and don’t require you to help the dog even after he’s learned how to manipulate the puzzle.
Be advised that if a puzzle has a dispensing feature – where, for example, a dog manipulates something to make food pour through a hole – the treats you use will have to fit through those holes easily. Puzzles with compartments that the dog easily accesses can hold food of any kind, but you may have to buy small-sized and/or round kibble for complex toys with dispensing holes or tubes.
Getting the difficulty level right
The dispensing action of some toys, including this one (the Kubatis Puzzle Toy), requires a fairly small, round treat or kibble; larger treats or kibble will get stuck, frustrating the dog.
Some dog-puzzle-toy makers rate the difficulty level of their toys, to help owners make buying decisions. For example, Outward Hound, the company that currently makes and sells products designed by Nina Ottosson (the original inventor of dog puzzle toys) identifies its toys and Level 1, 2, 3, or 4:
Level 1: A great way to introduce your pup to problem solving and puzzle games with one-step actions.
Level 2: Has added obstacles that require your dog to combine actions to reach their reward.” One example of Outward Hound’s Level 2 puzzle is the Hide N Slide: The “pegs” covering the treat compartments are easily manipulated to slide open, revealing the treats, but some of the “flippers” must be swiveled aside in order to allow the pegs to move.
Level 3: Challenges your dog to learn sequential steps to find their treat using more complex mechanisms.
Level 4: Requires your dog to complete a series of steps in the correct order for them to earn their treat.
Some toys look simple, but turn out to be too difficult for some dogs. For example, one of our two dogs gave up after emptying a single row of treats by pushing the sliders back and forth from the Challenge Slider Puzzle Toy from Nina Ottosson by Outward Hound, a Level 3 toy. Our other dog persisted with moving all the sliders – back and forth and sideways! – long after all the treats were consumed.
Other dog-puzzle makers use different descriptions of their products’ difficulty – but the point is, you get a sense of your dog’s ability and willingness to solve problems. One dog’s game of tic-tac-toe is another dog’s chess! It’s a good idea to start with an easy puzzle, and watch how your dog deals with it. If he’s easily frustrated and has a difficult time learning how to solve the puzzle, you’ll probably want to stick with the simplest, single-step puzzles. You’re just trying to add enrichment and stimulation to his life, not send him to college! If, in contrast, he is a highly food-motivated puzzle-master whiz-kid, he may be able to skip right to the most difficult puzzles.
It may take some trial and error to find puzzles that will occupy your dog without discouraging him. Fortunately, none of them are that expensive – and you can always gift the too-simple ones to a friend’s or relative’s young puppy, or the too-difficult ones to your closest Border Collie rescue.
How to introduce puzzle toys to your dog
If your dog has never played with puzzle toys before, start with some fairly high-value treats – unless your dog is one of those who will do backflips for kibble. You want him to be motivated enough to work to find the food, but not desperate to reach it at all costs.
Let your dog watch you fill the puzzle’s food-compartments. This will help him get a little excited about the project ahead.
Put the food-filled toy on the floor – preferably a surface that’s not too slick, so your dog doesn’t have to worry about slipping while occupying himself with the puzzle. Allow him to sniff (or paw) at the puzzle; his response will immediately tell you whether you need to show him how to manipulate the puzzle pieces to expose the food, or whether he can reach the food without assistance.
Most dogs start puzzle-solving with their nose and tongue; they can smell the treats inside the toys and will start licking and pushing at the movable parts on the puzzles. Dogs who are naturally more “pawsy” may rely on their paws and claws to try to manipulate the puzzles; again, the best dog puzzle toys will be able to take this sort of treatment without breaking.
Products that require a mixed approach might stymie some dogs. The Kubatis Puzzle Toy, for example, requires dogs to use their noses (to flip up the food-compartment covers) as well as their paws (to press on the top of the toy, which dispenses more treats into the compartments). Once encouraged to press on the top of the toy to dispense more treats, one of our test dogs kept pawing at the somewhat fragile compartment covers, and had to be redirected to using his nose to lift those up, instead.
That brings up our next tip: Be prepared to provide enough supervision to discourage your dog from getting too rough with the toy. Your dog may need to be redirected from taking an inadvertent shortcut to the treats – such as Otto’s throwing the toy across the kitchen to scatter the treats. Some of the toys we tested, such as the Challenge Slider Puzzle Toy from Outward Hound’s Nina Ottosson collection, wouldn’t have survived this treatment without coming apart. (The food-containing tray slides out for easy refilling, but if a dog lifted the entire toy from the ground, it would likely serve him all the treats at once.)
The harder your dog is willing to work for the treats, the lower-value food you can use inside. If he needs more motivation, use a mix of higher-value treats (such as freeze-dried meat cubes or semi-soft treats such as Zukes), kibble, and frozen peas and carrot cubes!
Resist your first impulse to snap back at your dog.
Instead, do this:
Stop. Whatever you did that caused your dog to growl, stop doing it. Immediately. If you were walking toward him, stand still. If you were reaching toward him, stop reaching. If you were trying to take the toy or bone away from him, stop trying.
Analyze. Your next action depends on your lightning-fast analysis of the situation. If your dog is about to bite you, retreat. Quickly. If you’re confident he won’t escalate, stay still. If you aren’t sure, retreat. Err on the side of caution. Complete your analysis by identifying what resource he had that was valuable enough to guard, and what you were doing that caused him to guard.
Retreat. If you already retreated because you feared a bite, go on to #4. If you stayed still, wait for some lessening of his tension and then retreat. Here’s the dilemma: dogs give off guarding signals – a freeze, a hard stare, stiffening of the body, a growl, snarl, snap, or bite – to make you go away and leave them alone with their valuable objects. Your safety is the number one priority, so if a bite is imminent, it’s appropriate to skedaddle. However, by doing so you reinforce the guarding behavior. “Yes!” says Dog. “That freeze worked; it made my human go away.” Reinforced behaviors are likely to repeat or increase, so you can expect more guarding next time. If, instead, you are safe to stay still and wait for some relaxation of tension and then leave, you reinforce calmer behavior. “Hmmmmm,” says Dog. “Relaxing made my human go away.” If you can do this safely, you increase his relaxation when you are near him and decrease his guarding behavior.
Manage. Give your dog guardable things only when you won’t have to take them away. Crates are good places for a resource guarder to enjoy his valuable objects. When he’s crated with good stuff, don’t mess with him, and don’t let anyone else mess with him. When small children are around, put him away – for his sake and theirs – since you may not always know what he’ll decide to guard, especially when kids bring their own toys to play with.
Train. Work with a good, positive behavior professional to modify your dog’s guarding behavior so he no longer feels stressed when humans are around his good stuff. Teach him to “trade” on verbal cue for a high value treat such as chicken, starting with low value objects and working up to high value, so he’ll happily give you his things on cue when you need him to. Out-think your dog. Resource guarding behavior is not a good place for a battle of wills.
To learn more about this aggressive behavior and others as well as ways to modify it, purchase and download the ebook Canine Aggression, from Whole Dog Journal.
If you hang around with other dog owners, you’ve no doubt heard the same comment I have, over and over again: “My dog is fine with other dogs when he’s off-leash; he’s only dog-aggressive when his leash is on.” You may have even said it yourself.
The reason it’s an often-heard comment is that it’s a common behavior: A lot of dogs who are fine with other dogs when left to their own devices become aggressive if they are leashed when they meet other dogs.
We know that aggression is caused by stress. Clearly, there is something about being on a leash that a lot of dogs find stressful enough that it prompts aggressive behavior. There are several reasons for this. Let’s take a look at one of them.
Leash Interference with Normal Social Interaction
Picture in your mind two dogs meeting and greeting, off-leash. They engage in a social dance – advancing, retreating, moving around each other, sniffing various body parts, giving body language signals intended to keep the interaction civil. Sometimes the movements are slow; sometimes they are quick. If one dog is cautious or fearful of the other, he can retreat as he wishes, using social distance to keep himself safe.
Now picture those same two dogs meeting onleash. The dance is stilted, inhibited by the restraint of the leash. One dog tries to circle the other, and the leash tangles around his legs. The cautious dog would like to retreat to safety, but knows the leash restricts his movement, and elects to act out his second option to increase distance – a growl and a snap to signal to the other dog to move away – who cannot, because he is leashed. The fight is on.
In the future, the cautious dog will offer a growl and snap before he’s close enough for the other dog to make contact. The best defense is a good offense. Alarmed, owners move away from each other, and the fearful dog’s aggression is reinforced by the increased distance. Behaviors that are reinforced repeat and increase, and the cautious dog’s aggression escalates as he realizes that it’s a successful behavior strategy for him – it keeps other scary dogs away. You now have a leash-aggressive dog. Absent the leash, he still chooses to move away from the other dog – his first behavior choice.
To learn more about aggressive behavior and ways to modify it, purchase and download the ebook Canine Aggression, from Whole Dog Journal.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
