The pharmacist made a typo on the last name of this prescription, but the dog’s first name is spelled correctly.
Shirley Zindler is the president and founder of the Dogwood Animal Rescue Project, a foster-based, nonprofit animal rescue organization based in Sonoma County, California. Zindler started Dogwood after retiring from working as an animal control officer for the county animal control department for many years and has built a large network of dedicated volunteers who foster animals and fundraisers who support the rescue work.
Through her Facebook page, Zindler as frequently shares information about her husband Paul and grown children as she recounts recent experiences in animal control and her current adventures in rescue through her Facebook page. So I wasn’t sure what sort of post I was reading when I saw this photo and story:
“Well, here we are, Paul and I, at our age. After 40 years together and not much has changed. We’re still crazy, passionately in love. And he’s still willing to do anything to make me happy, including picking up a prescription for Viagra.
“For the dog!
“Who knew that a new treatment for megaesophagus in dogs (our foster boy Ryder) includes Viagra?”
Actually, we knew that sildenafil, the generic name of the drug also known as Viagra, Revatio, Aphrodil, Vizarsin, and Granpidam, was a treatment for megaesophagus, a condition that causes dogs to regurgitate their food shortly after (or while) eating. It was a promising new treatment when veterinarian Catherine Ashe wrote this article for WDJ about the condition, but the drug is proving to work so well for this life-threatening condition, that it’s a standard part of the treatment today.
But I love all of Zindler’s stories, which are just as likely to make you laugh out loud as make you cry. She’s got some doozies from her many years in the field, and she’s shared many of them in two books that she published, mostly as a fundraiser for the rescue group she founded.
Fleas are easily picked up on walks, and it’s strongly believed there’s a connection between fleas and the bacteria Bartonella. Credit: Kobkik | Getty Images
Bartonella may make you think of cat-scratch fever, but it is being recognized as the cause of a potentially serious illness in dogs and people. Bartonella is a bacteria spread by fleas, although it is widely believed—but not definitively proven—that a dog also may contract bartonellosis from a tick or cat scratch or bite.
What’s worrisome is that, in cats, this disease is mostly an asymptomatic or transient problem until it is shared with a person or a dog. In both people and dogs, bartonellosis often shows up with cardiac signs. Endocarditis of the aortic heart valve with large lesions can lead to arrhythmias and inefficient cardiac performance. Lymph nodes may blow up and become inflamed. Nasal cavities may be involved, and you might notice nosebleeds. Researchers from North Carolina State believe some joint problems and neurologic symptoms such as weakness may also be attributable to bartonellosis.
Serology is not always accurate, and cultures take time. These “stealth” bacteria hide in blood cells and many other cells and are not detectable on smears. The bacteria may remain in your dog’s body, not causing any problems until years later when your dog’s immune system is compromised for some reason.
Treating Bartonella in Dogs
Treatment is done to reduce the bacterial load, but most researchers say it will not eliminate the infection. At this time, researchers recommend only treating dogs with clinical signs of bartonellosis. Treatment involves antibiotics such as doxycycline, amoxicillin, enrofloxacin, or rifampin. These drugs must be given for a month or six weeks.
Panting is how your dog keeps his body from overheating. A dog with a very long, wide tongue like this one is too warm. A stressed dog may or may not have a long, wide tongue but will show other signs of stress, like tail down, tense posture, ears slightly back.
Dogs also pant when they are stressed. This could be due to a loud noise, being in a place that your dog doesn’t like, or general anxiety. Other signs that your dog is distressed include tense face and posture, ears turned back and the whites of the eyes showing, and carrying her tail low and close to her body. She may also whine and pace or show destructive behaviors.
More concerning is the dog who is panting because she is having trouble breathing. Senior dogs can develop laryngeal paralysis, where the vocal folds in the throat are unable to move properly and can block the airway. These dogs frequently pant as a means of forcing air through. Other causes of difficulty breathing include respiratory infections, pneumonia, cancer in the lungs, and heart failure.
Other signs that your dog isn’t getting enough air include:
Pale, bluish, or purple tongue and gums
Stretching the head and neck out straight from the body
Collapse, especially during exercise
Abdomen moving in and out dramatically as the dog breathes
My Dog Keeps Panting and Won’t Settle at Night
We get it: A dog endlessly pacing and panting at night is annoying at best. It can prevent you from sleeping, which is a problem.
Dog May Need to Go Out
Not wanting to settle may mean that your dog needs to go outside, especially if she is a young puppy or a senior dog. These guys don’t have quite the bladder capacity of adult dogs in their prime. If your dog tends to pee only a small amount at a time, walk her long enough that she can completely empty her bladder before coming back inside.
Urinary tract infections and gastrointestinal upset that leads to diarrhea may cause your dog to need more frequent bathroom breaks. This discomfort can also lead to panting because your dog is stressed. Some medications, such as prednisone, can also make your dog urinate larger amounts and more often.
If your dog settles after a quick bathroom break, nothing to worry about. If these extra trips outside become a frequent issue, however, it is time for a vet visit.
Stress
Dogs may pace and pant at night if they are stressed. Possible triggers could be an alarm sounding somewhere in the house, moving to a new home, adding a new family member, fireworks, or storms.
If you can identify something that is stressing your dog, try to eliminate the cause or dampen its sound. You can also make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise before bedtime so that she is tired and more likely to go to sleep.
If your dog has more generalized anxiety that shows up during the day or just doesn’t resolve, she may need anti-anxiety medications from your vet or a veterinary behaviorist.
Pain
Pain can cause dogs to pant and pace. If your dog is hurting, she will have trouble getting comfortable, and may keep moving in an effort to find a better spot to rest. Pain also causes stress, resulting in the panting.
If you suspect your dog is in pain, schedule a veterinary exam to find out where your dog hurts and why so she can be treated appropriately.
Cognitive Dysfunction
Just like humans, dog brains can get a little bit addled as they age. Doggy dementia is called canine cognitive dysfunction, or CCD. Classic signs of this disorder are senior dogs wandering around, especially at night, and then sleeping at weird times of day. Your dog may also seem disoriented or have other personality changes.
Thankfully, there is a treatment for canine cognitive dysfunction. The medication selegiline (brand name Anipryl) is helpful for many dogs, and can restore your dog to her normal personality and habits. Enforcing a normal sleep schedule by keeping your dog active during the day can also help.
Sanitary diapers, like the washable pair shown in this picture, can be a big help when your dog is in heat. Credit: Kate O’Connor
There is no easy way to figure out when your young dog will go into heat for the first time and, other than surgical intervention ahead of time, there is no way to stop it from happening. Identifying what is typical for dogs of a similar breed and size can narrow down the timeline, but it will still only be an approximation. Any time between about 6 months and a year and a half is considered normal, though some smaller dogs may start as young as 4 months and some large breeds as old as 2 years.
If you haven’t been through a heat cycle before with a dog, it will help to learn what it looks like so you can recognize it when it happens. If in doubt, don’t be afraid to call your veterinarian for confirmation—a potentially silly question or the expense of an office visit is far better (and cheaper) than an unplanned pregnancy.
Signs your dog is in heat can include:
bloody discharge from her vulva
enlarged vulva
licking genital area
behavioral changes
change in tail posture
possible changes in mood, including crankiness
Why Not Have a Litter?
Puppies are born with their eyes and ears closed. They grow up fast but require a lot of care in order to thrive. Credit: Kate O’Connor
Given that I come from a family that has bred Airedales for decades, I understand the appeal of raising puppies. Not only are they adorable little bundles of potential, there’s something amazing about meeting the sons and daughters of a dog who is a beloved member of the family. The work it has taken to preserve and improve this very special line of dogs has been monumental—full of joy and loss, sleepless nights, and any number of difficult decisions.
That is, perhaps, why it almost always makes me cringe when I hear someone say, “I love my dog. I’m thinking of breeding her.” Most people, even well-intentioned ones, just aren’t prepared to make informed breeding decisions and raise puppies well. And it is the dogs who suffer for it.
As emotionally difficult as it can be for the humans involved, having a great personality does not make a dog a good breeding prospect. Alongside temperament, it’s important to thoroughly test and assess the health and abilities both parents. Ask yourself what you are trying to preserve and what it could look like if the puppies inherit only the least desirable traits—including any health issues—from the parents’ genetic lines.
Then there are the puppies themselves who require significant time, money, and care. Even if there are no expensive medical complications (like needing an emergency C-section), the best outcomes require understanding the canine reproductive process, good pre- and post-natal veterinary care, maintaining a safe and healthy environment for the mother and puppies, and knowledge of early development and training. At the risk of sounding harsh, if you don’t know how to properly cut an umbilical cord or glove up and assist if a puppy gets caught in the birth canal, don’t breed your dog. Yes, the majority of dogs can give birth by themselves, but your job as your dog’s caretaker—and the one who allowed her to get pregnant—is to be prepared if she and her puppies need help.
Finally, if you are thinking about breeding your dog, ask yourself if you are able and willing to provide a home for her puppies for the rest of their lives. I firmly believe that if we humans—accidentally or on purpose—bring a dog into this world, then we need to ensure he or she always has a safe place to go. Even following best practices for finding good placements for any puppies you’re not keeping, sometimes it doesn’t work out. It’s then up to you to bring the dog home, no matter how many years it has been.
What to Do When Your Dog is in Heat
Once a dog’s heat cycle starts, there are several things you will need to do. First, keep an eye out for anything unusual. While bloody or straw-colored discharge is normal, it should not be thick or mucousy. A discharge that is mostly mucous can be a symptom of a uterine infection (pyometra). This condition can be life threatening and requires immediate veterinary attention.
You will also need a plan for how to keep your dog away from any intact male dogs. Avoid spots where dogs might interact off leash such as dog parks or doggy daycare. Even if you have a fenced yard, she should not be left alone outside for any length of time. A fence—no matter how good—won’t keep a determined suitor out.
In addition, you will want some supplies on hand to handle the discharge. There is no way to stop a dog from bleeding when she is in heat, but there are some tricks to managing the potential mess. Most dogs will keep themselves clean, but if you have a long-haired or thick-coated dog, she may need some help. If the fur on her back legs or around her vulva is getting dirty, you can use a soft cloth dampened with warm water to clean her up. Be gentle—her vulva will be more sensitive than usual.
The amount of discharge during a heat varies from dog to dog and cycle to cycle. If it is on the heavier side, sanitary diapers can be used to keep the discharge from getting on floors and furniture. Dog diapers come in two varieties: washable and disposable.
In my experience, washable diapers often fit better but usually require a disposable pad to catch any leaks. Disposable diapers are great at absorbing discharge but can be a choking/swallowing hazard if your dog decides to remove hers and chew it up. Whichever you choose, be sure to change it regularly—every three to four hours—to avoid sores and infections.
For lighter discharge, you can often leave the diaper off in favor of covering your dog’s bed and usual hang-out spots with an old towel or potty pad. Again, be sure to change them out when they get dirty.
As discussed in “How to Comfort a Dog in Heat,” changes in hormone levels during the heat cycle can cause symptoms including clinginess, grouchiness, decreased appetite, and lethargy. You can help your dog by providing comfort, support, and in-home enrichment to keep her engaged when she can’t go out as much.
While spaying your dog is the best way to prevent pregnancy, it is generally not recommended when the dog is in heat. Most veterinarians will advise waiting to perform the surgery until at least three weeks after her cycle has ended to lower the risk of complications.
More On Heat Cycles
There are a few things it’s important to know when it comes to canine heat cycles:
If your dog is in heat, assume she can get pregnant.
Most unspayed female dogs have one to two cycles a year.
Heat cycles usually run two to three weeks but can last longer.
While bloody discharge and an enlarged vulva are typical, a dog can cycle (and get pregnant) without showing any external signs—called a “silent” heat.
If you notice your dog persistently licking the same area, consult with your veterinarian to try to find and treat the primary cause before it develops into an acral lick dermatitis or granuloma. Credit: Olaser | Getty Images
Acral lick dermatitis is easy to spot. For one thing, you will notice your dog constantly licking his body over and over in the same spot. Over time, that area will become bald with raised skin that may ulcerate or bleed. The hair around the bald spot is often stained a dark reddish-brown from your dog’s saliva.
What Causes Acral Lick Granuloma in Dogs?
Acral lick dermatitis is a secondary problem that usually starts because of another health problem. The primary health condition causes pain, irritation, or itchiness, which causes the dog to lick, and over time the licking causes more irritation which makes the dog lick even more. Sometimes we’re not sure why the dog is licking, but we do know it can be difficult to break this cycle.
The first thing your veterinarian will do is try to figure out why your dog is fixating on a specific spot and licking that area so much. Underlying conditions that can lead to acral lick dermatitis include:
Your dog may also have multiple things going on; for example, skin inflammation from allergies often leads to secondary bacterial infections.
Treating Acral Lick Dermatitis
The treatment for your dog’s acral lick granuloma will depend on his unique case. The three primary prongs of treatment are preventing further licking, treating any existing infection, and addressing the underlying cause.
Breaking the lick cycle is critical. Your dog may need to wear a cone or have a light bandage to prevent him from continuing to lick the area and make it worse. Bitter sprays may help too.
Medications that your dog may receive include antibiotics, pain medications, mite and flea treatments, or anti-anxiety drugs depending on your dog’s case. Veterinarians often use a combination of topical meds that you can apply directly to the sore and systemic medications that your dog takes by mouth. Acupuncture can be helpful.
In some cases, your veterinarian may recommend surgery to remove the damaged skin, close the wound, and give your dog a fresh start.
Patience Is Key
Treating acral lick dermatitis takes time and persistence. It can take weeks or months for the skin to heal and hair to grow back. Licking the same spot also can become a habit for the dog even after the initial cause is addressed. Be relentless about preventing your dog from continuing to lick.
With time, persistence, and some trial and error, you and your veterinarian will find the ideal treatment plan for your dog and break the itch-lick cycle.
Start training your dog to shake by shaping the exercise and using yummy treats. Before long, your dog will willingly shake paws with anyone! Credit: Thai Liang Lim | Getty Images
In the curriculum of “Dog Training 101,” we start with figuring out what your dog wants for a reward. Most dogs will do anything for a yummy snack. Others have a special toy or tug that they can’t resist. It doesn’t matter what it is if your dog is crazy about the reward. Because, just like you, your dog wants to be paid for his work.
Dog Training for Beginners
Food is easy. You probably already know what your dog just loves. And be sure you have plenty of that treat on hand. Remember to give him small bites at a time. He’d rather get a half ounce of turkey in three bites than one. So, if he does something super, he gets three little treats.
If your dog is not food-motivated, your first job is to figure out what motivates and excites him. Maybe it’s a favorite toy he likes to have tossed or tugged with. It might be as simple as excited accolades from you. You must figure this out before trying to teach anything. There must be something in it for them.
It’s important to ensure the dog remains engaged and happy and that sessions end on a good note (in other words, quit sooner, not later). Practice every day, even if the session is short. There’s nothing wrong with a five-minute training session.
Don't Forget to Have Fun!
It’s important to ensure the dog remains engaged and happy and that sessions end on a good note (quit sooner, not later). Practice every day, even if the session is shorter.
Never:
-Get impatient, angry, or frustrated
-Force your dog’s behavior
-Reward your dog for the wrong behavior
-Introduce too many tricks at once
Always:
-Keep sessions short; 10 minutes or less
-Use rewards that are high value to the dog
-Work in a quiet, distraction-free environment
-Be consistent in what you ask and what you reward
Once you’ve got that figured out, dog training at home starts with teaching the trick a little bit at a time, which is called “shaping.”
Shape the Trick
When teaching dogs tricks, shape the behavior, rather than demand, bribe, force, manipulate, or coax. Shaping behaviors requires patience and plenty of time allotted for your first few sessions. When behaviors are shaped and not forced the behavior becomes your dog’s choice. It makes your dog your partner or teammate in a game, not a servant. Shaping creates an interested, engaged, thinking, interactive, and motivated dog.
So how do you shape a behavior? Basically, you wait until the dog offers on his own something (anything!) resembling what you’re after, and you pay that.
Teaching your dog to shake is a good example of how to shape a behavior. Start by sitting with your dog sitting facing you. Have a treat hidden in your hand. Hold your closed hand toward your dog, palm up. Don’t say anything. Many dogs will naturally paw at the hand to try to get the cookie. If/when he touches your hand with his paw say, “Yes!” and give him the cookie.
Note: Take it off your palm with your other hand and give it to him with your other hand. Don’t just open your “shaking” hand and let him eat it.
Repeat this step until you’re confident he understands what he needs to do to get paid. Then wait a few seconds before rewarding while he keeps his paw on your hand. Gradually increase length of time with paw on your hand before rewarding. Once he fully understands he must keep his paw on your hand (as opposed to pawing or scratching at you) to get paid, you can add the word. To do this, start your regular routine and as he starts bringing his paw toward your hand simply say, “Shake.” This will attach a verbal cue to the desired behavior. Don’t forget to say “yes” and reward as usual for each advancement.
Proofing Dog Training
Eventually, you can turn your hand sideways if you prefer, like you would to shake a human’s hand. Once you’ve shaped that added behavior, you can add the up and down motion of a handshake.
As your dog becomes confident and proficient at doing “shake,” you can very gradually add some distractions, like practicing in different areas or when another person is around. This is proofing dog training.
Dogs may lay on our feet to ensure you we can’t leave the room without them noticing or simply to show affection. Credit: Anita Kot | Getty Images
Dogs show signs of affection in many ways, including laying their head on your feet. Other ways experts believe dogs show affection include:
Making eye contact with “soft” eyes
Happy greetings with loose, relaxed posture
Wagging tail
Slow blink
Seeking physical contact
Licking
Bringing you toys
Leaning against you
Following you around
Why Do Dogs Lay Their Head on Your Feet?
We think that dogs may lay their head on our feet as a way to show they love us by being close. Even dogs who don’t care for full-body cuddles on the couch or bed may enjoy being curled up at your feet, just barely touching. Others may just want to gaze in our eyes.
Some dogs may also use this technique to get our attention. “Hey human, you’ve been on the computer a long time—don’t forget you have a dog!” Of course, canine facial expressions can tell us a lot, too.
I think some of my personal dogs lay their head on my feet to be sure they will know if I get up and leave. My pack follows me from room to room, and napping on my feet ensures that I can’t “escape” without them knowing!
While we won’t know for sure why dogs lay on our feet until they can tell us themselves, a sign of affection feels right. After all, dogs use body language as a way to communicate and, if we feel warm and fuzzy when our dogs are close, why wouldn’t they feel the same?
Purebred dogs, like these Basset puppies, are bred to preserve breed characteristics, like size, color, and personality. Credit: Lisa Van Dyke | Getty Images
While we always encourage people looking for a dog or puppy to check shelters and rescues, a purebred dog may be the way to go if you’re looking for specific looks, personality traits, or athletic abilities.
To better understand what a purebred dog is, we spoke with Dr. Marc Bekoff, an evolutionary biology expert in Colorado who specializes in dogs.
What Is a Purebred Dog?
Simply put, the term “purebred” describes pups born to two dogs of the same breed.
“Biologically, a breed is just a genetic mix with traits we like, such as a behavior and/or a look, with looks being a major force directing breeding,” Dr. Bekoff says.
The difference between a purebred dog and a mutt or mixed breed dog is the number of breeds involved.
“Mixed breeds simply are mixing the gene pool from two different breeds,” Dr. Bekoff says.
Purebred dogs come from parents of the same breed. Mixed breed dogs come from parents of two different breeds.
Some people question if purebred dogs are bred to maintain the desired traits in a dog breed. The answer, Dr. Bekoff says, is yes. This practice helps concentrate the DNA so parents can pass on the favored traits to future dog generations.
How Many Breeds Are There?
Over time, selective breeding of dogs with distinct qualities (phenotypes) created an estimated 360 dog breeds worldwide, says Dr. Bekoff. To find a list of dog breeds, check out national dog registries, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC).
If you get your purebred dog from a reputable breeder, registration papers come with your pooch. These documents indicate your purebred dog’s pedigree and shows that both parents were registered and of the same breed. Papers are needed mostly to register your own dog and to breed or show your purebred dog.
Popular Purebreds
The most recent list of popular purebred breeds, according to the AKC, are:
French Bulldog
Labrador Retriever
Golden Retriever
German Shepherd Dog
Poodle
Cost of Purebreds
While rescue and shelter dogs – and oops litters – can be adopted for free to low-cost amounts, purebred puppies can cost thousands of dollars. Reputable breeders work hard to preserve the breed standard and avoid breeding dogs with genetic problems. The AKC “recognizes Breeders of Merit for their dedication to breeding purebred dogs with the appearance, temperament, and abilities that are true to their breed standard, and for their commitment to health screening and 100 percent puppy registration.”
If you’re shopping for a purebred dog, be wary of “puppy mill” breeders and websites who produce large numbers of purebred dogs, whether quality or not, with the sole purpose of making money.
: Be sure the person you select to do chiropractic work on your dog has proper training. Credit: Hikastock | Getty Images
Just as in a chiropractic session for humans, a dog chiropractor will palpate the dog’s spine, limbs, and even the skull to detect abnormalities in how the bones come together. Even small misalignments (called “subluxations”) can impact how that joint functions, your dog’s comfort level, and nerve function.
The dog chiropractor then uses specific motions to adjust the subluxated joint and move the bones back into place. The spine is a common focus.
Does My Dog Need an Animal Chiropractor?
Most dog lovers seek animal chiropractors when they notice their dog experiencing a chronic limp or soreness. If you compete in high-impact sports such as agility or flyball, you may opt for a dog chiropractic visit as a preventive measure to make sure your dog’s body is functioning its absolute best.
If your dog has a problem such as pain, lameness, or lethargy, it is critical to get a veterinary diagnosis. Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian so he or she can determine why your pup is hurting or not feeling himself. Why is this important? Because many different health problems can look similar at first glance but may need drastically different treatments. For example, a dog limping because of a sore back will benefit from dog chiropractic care, but a dog limping because of Lyme disease needs an appropriate antibiotic.
Once you know what is wrong with your dog, you can pursue dog chiropractic if your veterinarian agrees it is appropriate for his condition.
How Much Does a Dog Chiropractor Cost?
As with all medical care, the cost of a dog chiropractor visit can vary widely depending on where you live, the credentials of the practitioner, and the size and behavior of your dog. In general, an initial consultation costs $100 to $200, with follow-up adjustments ranging from $50 to $80.
Choosing an Animal Chiropractor
Look for a chiropractor who has been certified by the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) or International Veterinary Chiropractic Association (IVCA). This ensures that the dog chiropractor has had specific training on canine anatomy and joint and spinal manipulation.
Both veterinarians and certified human chiropractors with a doctor of chiropractic (DC) degree can pursue animal chiropractic certification. A human chiropractor must have special training on working with animals, as the joints and bones fit together differently in humans versus dogs. Trying to adjust a dog the same way that a human is adjusted could cause pain and even permanent damage.
We’d never recommend looking for free advice online. Doing research on reputable websites is a better tack.
This morning, as I often do, I picked up my phone and checked for any urgent messages or emails, then idly scrolled through various social media pages: TikTok, Instagram, Facebook. Then I read a post – or, rather, a string of comments on the post – that made me sit up in bed. The post itself made me roll my eyes, but the comments got my blood pressure
“Help! My dog has worms! What should I do?”
The post appeared in a local “Rants and Raves” page, where people typically complain about the service they received at a local tire shop or praise the new restaurant that just opened in town. And there were about 60 comments on the post. None, by the way, from any veterinarians or vet techs.
“Put a little tobacco in his food, the worms will be gone by tomorrow,” said one commenter.
“You can buy ivermectin at Tractor Supply,” said another commenter.
“I feed raw carrots and my dogs never get worms,” said a third.
“Tobacco always works for my dogs,” said a second tobacco fan. This was the comment that got me to sit up in aggravation, and within another minute, start reading the comments to my husband, who by now was wondering why I kept muttering and swearing under my breath. By the time the page moderator – or perhaps the original poster – deleted the post, I counted seven more people sharing their appreciation for feeding tobacco to dogs to rid them of worms. Never mind that no one knew what kind of worms the dog supposedly had, or for that matter, what the dog’s symptoms were that made the poster think the dog had worms. Not a single person asked the owner why they thought the dog had worms, or anything else about the dog. Everyone was just eager to share their advice.
It wasn’t all terrible advice; there were also two people who told the owner to not give the dog tobacco. And three or four commenters said the owner should take their dog to the vet.
I don’t want to sound like an out-of-touch elitist. I know that affording veterinary care is beyond lots of dog owners, and that a caring dog owner could easily spend a few hundred dollars in a simple visit to a vet, once the charges for the office visit, a diagnostic test, an overdue vaccine or two, and a dewormer are added up – and that could be devastating to lower-income folks, especially when perhaps an appropriate over-the-counter dewormer could effectively treat the condition.
But if you are going to look for information about your dog’s health online, for crying out loud, look for reputable sources! Not just random people! If you can use a computer (or a smartphone) for social media, surely you can look up articles on reputable sites (like this one!) that could help you determine whether your dog has worms, what kind, and what you can buy to treat them.
The same goes for training. Ask a general population of humans what you should do about a dog’s behavior issue, and you will be treated to the worst mix of garbage advice imaginable. Most of the training advice I see people offer each other online will make most dog behavior issues worse, if not get the dog euthanized because he bit someone in self-defense after being subjected to cruel and outdated, ineffective training “techniques.”
Asking unqualified people for advice is bad, but I’d suggest refraining from offering advice, too. Serious health and training problems should be addressed by people with training and experience, not just regular folks with opinions based on a dog they owned once, or that their mother-in-law owned.
Foster puppies Chex, Cheerio, and Captain demonstrate how puppies sleep every single day for eight weeks, right up until day they meet their new families. A cold, lonely crate can be quite a shock to a newly kidnapped—or rather, adopted—puppy's system. Photo by Kathy Callahan.
We’ve updated this very popular article, originally published in late 2020, because it just turned into a whole book! Welcoming Your Puppy from Planet Dog is now available wherever you buy your books.
A secret thought—unutterable even to family members—keeps more than a few new-puppy owners up at night: “What if this was a mistake?” New owners tell me, sometimes in a whisper, that they must be missing something. Getting a puppy was supposed to be fun, but all they feel is stress. Frustration. Even anger.
They seek me out for the Magic Answers, the training tips that will bring peace. They are at their wit’s end with the biting, the peeing, and the destruction. They get out their notebooks, ready to record expert information, personalized for their situation.
I absolutely do have those tips and tricks, strategies and game plans. Here’s the problem: They’re not going to work without the right mindset. There is actually just one thing I want new owners to write down in that notebook, so they can make it a part of every interaction they have with their puppy:
“Thisisababy that Ikidnappedfromanotherplanet…”
The way to enjoy puppyhood—and emerge from it with a beautifully trained dog—is to get in the right headspace. A real, live puppy won’t fit neatly into your regular life, and trying to make it so is a recipe for constant angst. The happiest puppy people are the ones who dive into this phase and back-burner their other things.
Need a convincing reason to do that, because it feels wrong to prioritize a little ball of fluff? Try this:
Just a baby!
Kidnapped!
Fromanotherplanet!
Far away from its own tribe, its own customs.
Lead with the empathy that idea demands, and you’ll find your groove. When you adjust your expectations for this little puppy to where they should be, suddenly training is simple. Not easy, but simple.
A FRUSTRATED MINDSET BLOCKS PROBLEM-SOLVING
The “poor baby” bit may sound ridiculous to you if you have a new puppy now napping, rather indulgently, in your lap. After all, this pup is lucky to have landed with you. Not only is there plenty of food, but there is an expensive dog bed and an overflowing toy basket. More importantly, you have turned your whole dang life upside-down for this dog. It seems like all you do is deal with the puppy!
All true.
But the more relevant truth is this: Before you took him home, that 8-week-old puppy spent every single moment of his little life in a cozy, warm scrum with his own kind. He was cheerily hanging out with his family doing everything that comes naturally to dogs: wrestling, biting, sniffing, chewing, and jumping. He was never alone. He had no idea you were going to swoop in, kidnap him, take him to a new planet and, here’s the kicker, suddenly be mad at him for everything that is prized in his culture.
Let that sink in.
Take your time.
Aw, shucks. Now you feel sad. And you want to know what good it does to ponder this depressing thought. After all, this is how it has to go—it’s not like the puppies can live on Planet Dog together forever.
But forcing yourself to sit with this concept increases your empathy for the puppy in front of you. If your mind is focused on your own disappointments (pee on the carpet again! more chewed shoes!), it leads to negative interactions with your puppy that can only hinder progress.
If, instead, your mind is filled to the brim with what your poor puppy must be feeling (confused, lonely), your own anger should evaporate. And that makes room for effective problem-solving.
In my experience, the Magic Answer to all of puppyhood is empathy. Not some fancy dog-trainer technique. Plain old empathy. I promise it’ll make you happier throughout puppyhood, and help you become a dramatically better teacher for your puppy as you learn to work with your puppy’s native ways.
Here’s a glimpse of what it looks like to approach a handful of the most communities puppyhood challenges using Planet Dog empathy:
EVERYONE BITES ON PLANET DOG
It’s natural for puppies to use their mouths to explore, play and engage. It’s up to us to teach them different ways to do those things here on Planet Human. Photo by Kathy Callahan.
On Planet Dog, everyone in polite society explores new things by mouth. Given the absence of hands, it’s the most effective, most satisfying way to engage. Puppies, in particular, use their mouths to play with their friends and to learn about the world.
People who don’t give any weight to their puppy’s background culture are alarmed by this mouthiness. They feel they may have picked “the wrong one.” The kids cry, saying, “I don’t like her! She’s biting me!” The parents put the put the pup in the crate for another hour, thinking “That’ll teach her.”
It doesn’t need to be this way. Owners who operate out of Planet Dog empathy will wake up in the morning to a bitey pup and their first thought will be, “Oh! You are missing playing with your friends the way you used to! You’re trying to play with us that way!” The thinking cap goes on and the mind is open. As your pup’s only guide to Planet Human, how can you help this dear toddler who’s trying her best in a challenging transition? Suddenly the answers are obvious:
* Bite-wrestle playdates with other puppies or gentle adult dogs. This is not a luxury, but instead an everyday need for all from Planet Dog. Once puppies have a happy outlet for that mouthy socialization, they are beautifully able to begin to learn our human ways.
* Long, flat, fluffy toys that allow pup to safely play a familiar-feeling bitey game (tug of war) with her human friends.
* The gentle teaching of new games that do not involve mouthiness: fetch, sit-spin-touch for treats, “find it,” etc.
People often tell me their puppy “just doesn’t understand the word no,” particularly regarding mouthiness. My answer is that when you set up your puppy’s day to match her needs, you’ll barely need to say no. Saying “no” a lot means you may have forgotten that you—say it with me—“Kidnapped! A baby! From another planet!” Having taken that dramatic action, it’s only right to do everything you can to help her adjust.
THERE IS NO ALONE-NESS ON PLANET DOG
It’s tough to leave your always-fun littermates and go into a home where using your mouth to play gets a big “NO!” Photo by Kathy Callahan.
On Planet Dog, puppies are virtually never alone. From the moment they’re born, they’re surrounded by littermates and within a leap or two of their mom. That makes for constant companionship, exercise, and warmth.
Once brought to Planet Human, a puppy might spend the vast majority of his time alone in a cold crate in an empty kitchen. When this toddler naturally cries out for companionship, he may be yelled at by the human who is his sole connection in this new life. “He needs to learn. He already had a walk around the block, plus I just played with him for a while. Now I’m busy.”
Leading with empathy makes it obvious that, while of course eventually this baby needs to learn to hang out alone, shock treatment is not the most effective learning experience. Furthermore, it can easily have the unintended consequence of making it even scarier to be alone. Once inside your puppy’s head, you’ll gravitate toward a stair-step approach to help your pup learn to be confidently alone. You’ll think about combining:
* A wonderfully tiring morning doggy playdate.
* A little brain-stimulating training.
* Moving your laptop into the kitchen for a while; then to the spot right outside the kitchen gate but in puppy’s sight.
As our little alien gets used to life with humans over the first weeks—aided by Planet Dog-oriented approaches like these—pretty soon puppy is happily enjoying his own company for reasonable stretches of the day that can get longer every week.
THERE ARE NO LEASHES ON PLANET DOG
Imagine how strange it would be to be dragged around in a new world! Relax, and take your time introducing collars, harnesses and leashes. Photo by Kathy Callahan
Imagine a recently kidnapped puppy’s terror when a strange thing is placed on her body and suddenly she is pulled around by it. Even worse, she is dragged outside into a world she’s never seen before, with loud noises and other creatures that are utterly foreign. Her struggles to escape only make matters worse—the noose tightens!
So many new owners are mystified when this pup is reluctant to accompany them. They just pull her along thinking, “She’s so weird! All dogs like walks. I’m sure she’ll get used to it.” And generally, she does—but only after experiencing a lot of fear and losing trust in her human.
In contrast, owners who remember the key information— “Just a baby!”—will consider how terrifying this could be, which opens up the mind to all sorts of ideas. “Hmm … How could I make this leash walk less frightening to a baby?”
* Maybe spending the first afternoon with just a light little collar and progressing to an attached light kitty leash the pup can drag around.
* Perhaps by the end of the day you’re picking up the end of the leash from time to time, throwing treats ahead of the pup so her focus is forward, on that.
* Later, you’re happily doing all of that out in the backyard, with the pup getting used to tension on the neck every now and then while you’re feeding a tiny bite of hot dog.
* Maybe you’re also sitting together out front and watching the world go by, sharing a bit of cheese when loud trucks or new folks pass, just to form some happy associations.
Within days, this pup raised in empathy is happily walking on leash up and down the street with her trusted owner, who feels all the closer to her pup for the mini-journey they’ve just taken. (It’s likely that the other owner, who was in a rush to get these walks going, still will be wrestling with a skittish walker weeks later.)
ON PLANET DOG, YOU CAN PEE ANYWHERE
The #1 issue creating the tossing and turning of the new-pup owners I counsel is the challenge of housetraining. Even the most committed seem to buckle at the three-week mark and confess to yelling.
Alas, our little kidnapped baby just learned, from that angry shout, that her person is scary. Unpredictable. Not to be trusted. Training will now go more slowly. Maybe she will always hold back just a bit because of the intimidating yelling from “her person” at this sensitive age. Who knows what lesson she learned from that punishment? Options include:
* I’d better hide from humans if I need to pee! Maybe behind the couch.
* I don’t want to pee in front of a human, so I won’t pee on leash anymore.
* Right before my person yelled I was looking at the small child, so that must be a bad thing on this planet. I will run from small children now!
Our human housebreaking rules make very little sense to the folks from Planet Dog. While it is obvious to you that the dining room carpet is no place to relieve yourself, to your puppy it seems ideal: it’s away from the prime living space, and it’s got nice absorption, plus traction! Start with empathy, understand that your pup has drastically different instincts than you, and set him up for success:
* Do not give him the freedom that will lead to “accidents.” (They’re hardly accidents when the individual doing them has no idea they’re doing something wrong!)
* Keep eyes on that puppy 100% of the time he’s not in his crate. “Eyes on” does not mean “in room with laptop open.” Learn his signals (abruptly walking to a corner? sniffing the ground?) and respond immediately.
* A human needs to get that pup outside, and walking around, once every half hour to start! Only with success can that stretch to 45 minutes, then an hour ….
No shortcuts. I’d sugar-coat it for you but that doesn’t do you any good in the long run, so here it is: After a week or two, every “accident” is your fault. I’m so sorry.
“Hey!” You may be saying. “Where’s the empathy for the human?!?” I know. It’s just that you’ll get that elsewhere, when you talk to other humans who can’t believe you actually got a puppy. I’m here to speak for the puppy, who did not choose to be kidnapped by aliens who thought they could carry on their regular day-to-day afterward.
THE DREAM IS IN REACH
The secret to enjoying puppyhood—and emerging from it with a great dog—is using Planet Dog empathy to guide your approach. Photo by Kathy Callahan.
Frustrated new puppy owners think they’re not asking much. “Sheesh, I just want to hang out with him and cuddle.” But that’s not actually true. We also ask them not to bark, jump, bite, pee, sniff, or chew. Sometimes, it’s as if we’re asking them not to be dogs.
It is frankly amazing to me how well puppies do during this overwhelming period of transition, from one planet to another. They are beautifully adaptable – so adaptable that even when shoe-horned immediately into a human’s world of doggy “no’s” they often do okay.
But in the homes where Planet Dog empathy rules from Day One? Those are the homes where the whole puppyhood thing looks just like it does in the storybooks. Sure, some real-life things had to be put on the back burner for six months. But there was no tossing and turning, and there were no secret thoughts of regret. These are the folks who wonder what they did before they got this new friend. They are also, by the way, the people whose dog is walking at a relaxed pace with a loose lead, gazing up at them, wondering what happy thing might be next.
Many behaviors that are considered “tricks”—like offering a paw to shake—have practical uses as well. “Shake” can make nail trims and paw checks much easier. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images
When it comes to tricks to teach your dog, the list of possibilities is endless. The tricks included in this article assume you’ve done some basic training already, but are as long as your dog has a sit and a down, you’ll be good to go. The fun part is that these are just the beginning. Once you learn how to teach your dog, the sky’s the limit.
Before diving in, it is important to note that you should never force your dog into performing a behavior. In the long run, it prevents the dog from learning and can create an aversion to the behavior you’re trying to teach. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a break and try something different.
While there are many training methods available—each with their advantages and disadvantages—I use a combination of luring and shaping (see sidebar) to teach tricks. In my experience, training is most effective when everyone involved is engaged and having a good time!
Training Terms and Techniques
Shaping:Shaping is a training technique that reinforces incremental steps toward a desired behavior. Each behavior is broken down into much smaller parts that eventually chain together to reach the end goal. When the dog is successful at the first step, you add the next. For example, if you want your dog to touch a target with his nose, you begin by rewarding any movement toward the target. Once the dog is moving toward the target regularly, you go to the next step and reward the dog only when he gets within a foot of it, then only when he touches it, then only when he touches it with his nose. While it takes patience and precision on the part of the handler, shaping is a great way to teach complex behaviors. It also requires the dog to make decisions and find solutions to challenges (figuring out what you’re asking him to do) on his own, engaging his brain in ways that often lead to a strong understanding of what he’s being asked to do.
Luring: The luring technique uses a reward—usually a toy or treat—to guide a dog to perform the desired behavior. For example, if you want to teach a dog to sit, you can hold a treat in your hand, put it in front of his nose, and raise your hand above his head. Most dogs will sit back to follow the treat with their noses. By following the “lure,” the dog has moved into a sitting position—just like you wanted. Luring is often the fastest way to get a dog to perform a behavior and can be useful for training “trick” behaviors a dog might not naturally do on his own. However, it is more likely to produce reliance on rewards if not used properly and can lead a dog to act without thinking or understanding what’s being asked.
Fade: Fading is the process of removing the need for a lure, reward, or physical cue used to get a dog to perform a behavior. While several articles worth of topic all on its own, the basics of fading are as follows: once a dog is responding reliably to the lure plus the cue you plan to use for a behavior, gradually begin diminishing the use of lure. To go back to the example of the dog learning to sit, when the dog is regularly following the motion of your hand with the treat (the lure), you will begin saying “sit” (the cue) immediately before you make that motion. As the dog gets used to those two things always coming at the same time, start waiting for a second or two between saying “sit” and making the hand motion. If your dog begins to sit upon hearing the word without waiting for the hand gesture, you can continue to gradually increase the time between the word and the gesture (and make the gesture smaller) until eventually the dog only needs to hear the word before sitting. From there, you can fade the reward itself by offering treats less often and at varying intervals.
Mark: A marker is meant to provide immediate feedback for the dog by way of positive association. It says, “That was the behavior I wanted!” It lets the dog know that a reward is coming (and why) without you needing to shove a treat in his mouth the exact moment he did what you asked. I use the word “Yes!” or a clicker. You set up these markers by “charging” them. To charge a marker, do several short practice sessions where you only use the marker and offer the reward: click the clicker (or say the word), give a treat, and repeat—nothing else.
Reward: Rewards don’t just mean food! Anything your dog likes and is willing to work for can be effective—yummy treats, favorite toys, praise and cuddles.
Cue: The word or signal used to ask the dog to perform a behavior.
Reset: Go back to the starting position for the exercise.
How to Teach Your Dog to Spin
For this trick, the end goal is to have your dog stand in front of you and spin in a circle. It is one of the easiest tricks to train and, as a bonus, it looks pretty cute. Here’s how to teach it:
Grab a treat (or toy) and stand in front of your dog.
Show him the treat.
When he moves toward it, move your hand away in a slow circle in front of you.
As he completes the circle, mark it and reward him (more about that in the sidebar, “Training Terms and Techniques”). If your dog is having trouble making a full circle, you can start by marking and rewarding at the halfway point and move on to full circles once he has that down.
Repeat until he is reliably circling then add the verbal cue you want. I use “spin” to ask for a circle to the left and “twist” for a circle to the right.
How to Teach Your Dog to Shake Paw
“Shake” is a classic for a reason. In addition to being a fun trick, it’s also useful for getting your dog accustomed to having his feet touched—a huge help for drama-free nail trims and vet visits. Like humans, most dogs have a side they prefer. When teaching this trick, I start with the side the dog offers first. To begin:
Cue your dog to sit in front of you.
Put a treat in your palm and close your hand into a fist around it.
Hold your fist out in front of the dog within easy paw reach—I find somewhere between floor level and about six inches off the ground works well for most dogs, though you may have to try different heights to see what your dog is most likely to go for.
Wait for your dog to move his paw. As soon as he does—even a little bit—mark it and reward him. It’s a good idea to reward him with your opposite hand (not the one you’re hiding the treat in). This will make it easier for him to understand that the reward comes when he touches your hand with his paw, not his nose.
Reset your dog and repeat the process. Once he starts to lift his paw more regularly, you can begin waiting for him to move it closer to your hand before rewarding him. As a note, many dogs jump straight to pawing at the hand with the treat. That’s great for teaching this trick. Mark and reward the behavior.
Once he is reliably touching your hand with his paw, you can begin raising your hand higher. When he’s got that down, begin offering him your palm instead of your closed hand. If he has trouble, don’t worry! Just back up a step and let him get some more practice before trying to up the difficulty once more.
When he is once again putting a paw in your hand regularly, add the verbal cue “paw” or “shake.” I use “paw” for the left paw and “shake” for the right.
Fade out the reward once the cue is established.
How to Teach a Dog to Backup
Backing up on cue is another “trick” behavior that has many practical uses—such as asking your dog to move away from a door or getting him to give you some space when he is underfoot. To teach it:
Stand in front of your dog with a treat in hand.
Hold the treat over his nose and take a small step toward him—this will put the treat over his head instead.
When he steps back to follow the treat, mark and reward the behavior. It doesn’t have to be a big step on his part. Any backward movement is good to start. You may have to stand still and wait a bit for him to figure it out.
Grab another treat and repeat the process.
Once he is able to take one step back reliably, you can add a second step before marking and rewarding.
Gradually increase the number of steps before the reward.
When your dog can reliably do three or four steps back, add a verbal cue. I use “back.”
Once he is responding consistently to the verbal cue, fade out stepping toward him.
If your dog has a good recall, you can add some complexity to the trick by sending him away from you with “back” and then calling him to you.
Teach Figure Eights to Your Dog
Figure eights don’t have to be done around your legs. Objects such as cones, trees, or chairs can also be used. Credit: alexei_tm | Getty Images
Figure eights won’t work for a Great Dane without some adjustments, but for any dog short enough to walk through your legs, this is a great trick to learn. In addition to looking impressive, it is useful for developing flexibility (in dog and handler!). I work on figure eights inside or in a fenced yard since adding a leash to the mix can create a trip hazard. To begin:
Ask your dog to sit in front of you.
Take a step to the side so your feet are a little farther than shoulder-width apart. There should be enough space between your legs for the dog to fit through easily. Make sure you are comfortable and well-balanced.
Hold a treat in your right hand.
Hold the hand with the treat behind you low enough that your dog can see the food—mid-thigh level usually works for medium and large dogs. For smaller dogs, it’s helpful to have a target stick.
When your dog moves toward the treat, pull it slowly back and to the right. The goal is to lure him through your legs toward your right side. As soon as he walks through, mark it and reward him. If he’s uncertain about it, you can try throwing the treat or a toy behind you to add some momentum. A note here: If your dog is reluctant to walk through your legs, absolutely do NOT straddle him or grab his collar and “help” him—while it may not seem like a big deal from the human perspective, asking a dog to walk underneath you is asking for a lot of trust on his part. If your dog isn’t having fun, find another trick to teach first before returning to this one.
Reset and repeat the steps above until your dog is comfortably walking through your legs.
Once he’s walking through your legs easily, have him sit in front of you again. This time, take a treat in each hand.
When he walks through your legs, continue to move your right hand in a circle around your leg until it is in front of your knee. When your dog follows, mark and reward.
Now, hold your left hand behind you and let him see the treat. Lure him through your legs and to your left side. Mark and reward.
Practice those steps until you get a smooth flow.
Once your dog clearly understands the process, you can add a verbal cue, “weave” in my case, and begin to fade out the lure.
For very large dogs or handlers facing mobility challenges, two cones—or any similar objects—can be used in place of your legs. Just position yourself where you can lure the dog around both obstacles and follow the steps listed above.
How to Teach a Dog to Crawl
I usually sit on the floor in front of my dog to teach crawl. Standing and using a target stick also works well. To start:
Cue your dog to lay down.
Hold a treat a few inches in front of his nose and drag it slowly away along the floor. Slow is key here since you don’t want him to hop up and walk toward it.
If he makes any movement toward the treat without standing up, mark and reward.
Once he’s reliably crawling forward a few inches, you can start gradually extending the distance and adding the verbal cue “crawl.”
Fade the lure once he is consistently responding to the cue.
If you are just beginning your training journey, start with teaching a sit and a down. Along with a good recall, those behaviors serve as a foundation for many others. Credit: Zbynek Pospisil | Getty Images
Once I’ve gotten “crawl” established as a cue, I expand the game by setting up obstacles for my dogs to crawl under—most often I sit on the couch, prop my feet on a stool and ask the dog to crawl under my raised legs. I use the same steps for training a dog to go under an obstacle as I do for a no-obstacle crawl. Again, it is important not to force a dog who is reluctant or hasn’t figured it out yet—while it might be tempting to give a gentle push to the shoulder if they won’t stay down, it’s far better to let him figure it out himself. Not only will he learn the behavior better, you’ll also avoid creating an unpleasant experience that could sour him on it.
Don't Forget to Have Fun!
Some of the best tricks my dogs have learned over the years started as pure silliness. Among other things, my two-year-old Airedale, Carmen, has learned a few dance moves. While there are plenty of behaviors we worked on with a plan and specific goals in mind, these evolved organically when she showed an interest in what I was doing and, since it made me laugh, I decided to reinforce it.
The dance moves began when Carmen was about five months old. My sister was dancing around the apartment and the puppy was fascinated. She started tracking my sister’s arm movements which resulted in a floppy-eared head bob. Not only was it absolutely adorable, I loved how closely the puppy was watching and responding. I grabbed treats and we had an impromptu dance party where we rewarded her for following along. With time and repetition, it evolved into several specific hand signals and behaviors—including the head bob, stepping in time, and a forward step-back-step combo.
The moral of this silly story is “don’t be afraid to play with your dog!” Try new things and reward behaviors you want to keep. Fun and excitement are powerful training tools for humans and dogs alike.
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