What a great job this is! Although the deadlines provide perennial pressure, and the stack of mail and calls to return can seem endless at times, I have to admit that I really enjoy learning so much about healthy dog care – and passing it along, of course! While some of the articles that our writers research and produce contain information that I already know a lot about, I never put an issue together without learning something new and valuable that I can put to immediate use.
For instance, I know the importance of reading the label of anything that I feed to my dog. But I’ve always wondered at the dearth of information provided by the labels of rawhide chews and other products intended for canine dental exercise. I have long suspected that these products are not created equal, so to speak. But it wasn’t until I read freelance writer Roger Govier’s article, “Chew on This,” that I knew what to look for – and what to avoid – when choosing my dog’s chew toy.
I first heard the phrase “calming signals” from Sabra Learned, a TTouch practitioner who has written a number of articles for us about TTouch methods. Sabra educated me about this communication method when she used my dog as a model for a photo shoot; she showed me how Rupert, a typically nervous Border Collie whose desire to please verges on compulsion, uses these signals almost constantly when in the presence of strangers.
But all the lights went on when I went through my photo files looking for pictures of dogs interacting at the dog park to illustrate the article about these signals contributed by another TTouch practitioner, Jodi Frediani. I must have 200 or more pictures of dogs playing and socializing in my photo files – pictures that I myself have taken. But until I read the article I never saw the calming signals displayed by the dogs in my own photographs. In frame after frame, I saw dogs clearly “telling” their playmates and companions that they were friendly and interested in getting along. I can’t wait to experiment with Frediani’s suggestions for using the signals to set an anxious dog at ease, or help two strange dogs get to know each other peacefully.
After reading Pat Miller’s review of products that can help keep dogs cool in hot weather, I immediately ordered one of her “top picks” for Rupe to use here in the WDJ office. Even without a thermometer, I always know when the temperature hits 80 degrees or so by the blast of hot dog breath that a panting Rupert generates under my desk. In the winter I appreciate his presence there, especially on cold days when I can snuggle my toes under his ample coat to keep warm. I’ll let you know whether the cooling products saved Rupe from his embarrassing summer haircut (he just doesn’t look right without his hair).
And I was highly entertained while editing Miller’s article about identifying and developing your dog’s ‘hidden talents.’ It cracked me up to read about some of the “jobs” that some dogs have volunteered for: turtle wrangling, turning off the reading light after a person has fallen asleep, and even mushroom hunting. I could relate! Just a few years ago, I found myself living next door to a family who had at least 10 or 12 outdoor cats – cats who were in the habit of using my front yard for a kitty litter box. Rupe quickly learned the difference between my attitude about chasing our cat (don’t you dare, ever!) and chasing the neighbor’s cats off of our front lawn (go for it!). In the long, hot summer, the cue “CAT alert, Rupie!” is still very useful for breaking up midnight feline serenades in the backyard.
Dogs that compete in field trials, agility or herding competitions or those that play fly-ball or Frisbee automatically come to mind as canine athletes. Then there are seeing-eye dogs, rescue dogs, police dogs, drug dogs, and a host of others whose work is just as athletically challenging.
It is easy to understand how these top performance animals might benefit from massage. The fact is, however, that even our four-legged friends who aspire to perfect their skills as couch potatoes are athletes in their own right. This is true even if their most energetic pursuits are chasing a squirrel or a brief romp in the yard. All of our canine friends, including those with demanding jobs, those who prefer a more leisurely life style, and those with chronic problems that hinder activity, can benefit from massage.
What is canine massage?
Massage is a hands-on manipulation of the muscles and other soft tissues with the intent of benefiting the animal. In other words, massage is touch with a purpose and it yields many physical and emotional benefits.
Physically, massage stimulates circulation, enhances range of motion, relieves muscle spasms, and encourages a healthier coat. The positive effects on mental attitude and emotions are just as important. For example, massage promotes relaxation, reduces stress, fosters a sense of well-being, and strengthens the bond between human and animal.
Massage, which to the casual observer appears to range from gentle stroking to more vigorous kneading and percussion of tissues, affects the dog physically and emotionally by markedly influencing the nerve, muscle, circulatory and lymph systems of the body. As a matter of fact, none of the body’s systems works in isolation.
It is estimated that the human body has 60,000 miles of capillaries. Dogs have a proportionately similar amount, taking into consideration the size difference between a Chihuahua and Great Dane. Each muscle fiber or cell is surrounded by three or four of these tiny blood vessels, which bring oxygen and nutrients to the cells and carry waste products away. The nervous system communicates with each muscle cell through processes of the several million neurons (or nerve cells) which carry messages to the brain indicating whether the muscle is relaxed, contracted, or injured. Similarly, messages return to the muscles and stimulate them to respond to stimuli by contracting or relaxing.
With this abundance of nerve and muscle cells and their associated capillaries, it is not difficult to understand the impact that touch has on the body.
The number of cells influenced by a single gentle stroke along the length of the body is mind-boggling. Massage enhances circulation by stimulating the movement of blood through the capillaries. This increases the supply of oxygen and nutrients to muscle cells and carries away waste products and toxins generated by contraction. Stimulation by massage of muscle and nerve cells enhances muscle tone. Tiny areas of muscle in spasm are encouraged to relax and the overall health of muscle and nerve are improved.
Also, massage relaxes your dog just as a massage or even a good shoulder and back rub relaxes your tight muscles when you are stressed. Massage also affects the capillaries that nourish the skin with oxygen and nutrients and cleanse it of wastes and toxins. This fosters a healthy skin and coat.
The mind/muscle connection
Your dog’s body works just like yours. Daily use or lack of it can cause muscles to become tight, sore, stiff, or flaccid. Emotional stress can also affect your dog’s muscles and general well-being. How does your dog react to potentially stressful situations like a trip to the vet, separation from you, or an encounter with a neighborhood dog? Like humans, part of a dog’s response to stress may manifest as tense, tight muscles. Massage can go a long way to reverse the adverse results of stress-producing events by relaxing your dog, relieving his tension. It can also greatly enhance your bond with your dog.
We must keep in mind that the systems of the body work together as an integrated unit. Events – good or bad – that impact one system lead to a cascade of effects that eventually impact all systems.
A “whole body” dynamic
Consider, for example, what happens if your dog suffers a cut on one of his paws. Certainly there will be some loss of blood and infection-fighting white blood cells will rush to the area. The involvement of the circulatory system is obvious. Then the area surrounding the cut will swell with cellular fluids released due to the damage. Now the lymphatic system will swing into action to decrease the swelling by removing the excess fluid and carrying off other cellular debris resulting from the injury.
Because the dog’s paw is sore, he may compensate for the pain by limping or shifting weight from one part of the body to another. This can stress healthy joints and muscles causing them to become misaligned and strained and to suffer abnormal wear and tear.
Needless to say, the pain will affect the dog, emotionally lowering his spirits and possibly his appetite.
Just as a minor cut can upset the body’s balance and affect some aspect of virtually every system, massage can bring about positive changes to many systems of the body. An open wound should never be directly massaged. However, massage above or below an injury can stimulate blood flow which increases the supply of nutrients needed for repair and healing. Similarly, a stimulated lymph system hastens removal of wastes and excess fluids so swelling recedes.
A complement
Massage is not a substitute for conventional veterinary care but can often be very effectively used in conjunction with it to provide maximum benefit to your dog. There are times when massage is contraindicated. As noted, one should never massage an open wound. Similarly, massage is contraindicated over surgical sites, insect bites, and skin infections. Massage is also inappropriate for an animal that has a temperature or swollen lymph glands, or cancer, is in a state of shock, or has a broken bone or ruptured disk. These conditions require conventional veterinary care.
Massage can benefit the rapidly growing muscles and mind of a puppy, the hard-working body of a canine athlete, and the chronic problems like hip dysplasia and arthritis common in older dogs. In future articles, we will specifically address some of these issues.
-By Sue Furman
Sue Furman teaches canine and equine massage classes and is active as a free-lance writer. She also conducts research on nerve and muscle as a faculty member in the Department of Anatomy and Neurobiology at Colorado State University in Ft. Collins, CO.
Modern-day dog owners enjoy the comforting certainty that their puppies can and will be given a series of vaccinations, so-called “puppy shots,” to protect them from life-threatening canine diseases such as distemper, parvovirus, and rabies. Most of us were indoctrinated in early childhood to schlep Shep to the vet once a year for his annual booster shots in order to extend that vital protection year after year. We accepted without question that a failure to do so was the height of dog owner irresponsibility. We wouldn’t dream of leaving our beloved canine companions at the mercy of the multitudes of evil distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus, coronavirus, Lyme, and bordetella germs and viruses that lurk in the environment. Faithfully following our veterinarians’ instructions, we vaccinate our dogs year in and year out, confident this is “the best thing” for them.
But according to some veterinary immunologists, sometimes, we actually may do more harm than good by immunizing our furry friends.
Many holistic veterinarians think that by injecting our dogs every year with what we believe to be life-saving substances, we are actually destroying their immune systems, and condemning them to a life of vaccine-induced allergies, behavior problems, encephalitis, epilepsy, cancer, and a laundry list of autoimmune diseases including Addison’s disease, rheumatoid arthritis, Hashimoto’s thyroiditis, systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), hemolytic anemia, hepatitis, diabetes, Grave’s disease, hypoparathyroidism, uveitis, and more. They insist that vaccines actually cause more problems than they prevent, and that dogs are dying by the thousands of “vaccinosis” – a morbid reaction to vaccines. Some even go so far as to suggest that we should never vaccinate. Who are we supposed to believe?
What is a vaccine?
As most of us know, vaccines are administered for the purpose of establishing resistance to an infectious disease. A suspension of infectious agents (or some part of them) is injected into the dog in order to stimulate the immune system to produce antibodies to the disease. If the dog is later exposed to the disease, the antibodies quickly react to attack and destroy the virus. Vaccines come in two types: killed virus and modified live (or attenuated) virus (MLV). Killed vaccines are mixed with a substance called an adjuvant to make them more effective. They often require more injections to accomplish immunization, and various adjuvants are suspected of causing allergic reactions. The modified live vaccines generally work more quickly, but are more likely to cause suppression of the immune system.
Many people assume that vaccines are 100 percent effective in preventing disease. Unfortunately, this is far from true. There are many reasons why a vaccine might not be effective in a given case.
The first reason has to do with the animal itself rather than the vaccine; it is the response of the vaccinated animal’s immune system that determines the effectiveness of the vaccine. If a dog is sick, weak, or malnourished, his body may be unable to mount the proper defense. If his immune system is depressed due to previous disease, surgery, poor genes, old age or drug therapy, vaccinations are likely to be ineffective. Every vaccine package lists warnings against vaccinating any animal whose immune system may be compromised, and most veterinarians will agree that a sick dog should not be vaccinated.
Puppies present their own challenges to thorough vaccination: If a puppy is young, his mother’s antibodies may still be in his system and interfere with the pup’s ability to respond to the vaccine. This is why we give a series of puppy shots – to span the period of time when he may or may not be protected by his mother’s immunities.
In addition, if a vaccine has been improperly produced, poorly handled (for example, not kept properly refrigerated), incorrectly administered (i.e., given subcutaneously when it is supposed to be given intramuscularly) or given on a faulty schedule, it may be rendered ineffective.
Not always safe
Most veterinarians tend to reassure their clients that vaccinations are perfectly safe. This is not always true. A relatively small percentage of dogs can have an acute anaphylactic (severe allergic) reaction to one or more vaccines. When this happens, prompt administration of adrenaline, epinephrine, antihistamines, or corticosteroids may be necessary to save the dog’s life. Milder reactions, such as soreness and swelling at the injection site, lack of appetite, and general lethargy and depression can also occur within a day or two following administration of the vaccine. In addition, there is a growing body of evidence that vaccines are sometimes associated with immune system problems.
Off to the left side of the issue are vaccine alarmists, who claim that, far from being safe, vaccines damage immune systems in a large percentage of dogs, causing more diseases than they prevent. For example, in her book, What Vets Don’t Tell You About Vaccines, Catherine O’Driscoll says that vaccines are deadly poisons that disarm and unbalance the immune system, and suggests that they should rarely, if ever, be used.
Then there are the vaccine moderates, including W. Jean Dodds, DVM, a 1964 graduate of the Ontario Veterinary College. From 1965 to 1985, Dodds conducted comparative studies of animals with inherited and acquired blood diseases while working for the New York State Health Department. In 1986 she opened Hemopet, the first nonprofit national blood bank for animals, which she continues to operate to this day in Southern California. On behalf of Hemopet she consults in clinical pathology nationally and internationally, and is known as one of the country’s leading experts on hematology and blood banking, immunology, endocrinology, and nutrition.
Dodds has identified a long list of breeds and families within breeds who are genetically predisposed to immune system sensitivities. The breed list includes Dobermans, Rottweilers, Yorkshire terriers, Akitas, standard poodles, great Danes, Weimaraners, and American Eskimos.
“The vaccine,” says Dodds, “is just a precipitating event. It does not create the weak immune system. For dogs predisposed to immune system problems, toxic exposure, overheating, poor diet, or some other condition that stresses the system can also be precipitating events.
“For the last 20 years,” she continues, “we have been increasingly aware that vaccines are associated with autoimmune disease. But vaccines have played a vitally important role in reducing severe infectious diseases in our companion animals. Because of this, we are seeing more adverse reactions than infections, and some people are tempted to cease vaccinating altogether. This is not wise. The diseases still exist, and it makes sense to vaccinate, when safe, in order to protect our pets and the pet population in general. A well-nourished, healthy animal should not have problems with the standard vaccines. We do need to identify high-risk animals and modify our vaccination protocols to meet their individual needs when appropriate in order to minimize their risk.”
Dr. Susan G. Wynn, a private practitioner in Marietta, Georgia, has done teaching in alternative medicine, co-edited a text for veterinary schools entitled Complementary and Alternative Veterinary Medicine, and completed a four-year post-doctoral fellowship in viral immunology. She agrees with Dr. Dodds.
“There is no question that vaccines are more beneficial than harmful,” she says. “Distemper used to kill some 50 percent of all dogs born. I have seen a total of three cases of distemper since my 1987 graduation. Vaccines have played a really important role in reducing the incidence of severe, infectious diseases. They have been so effective that today we do see more adverse vaccine reactions than the infections themselves, which may give the appearance that the vaccine is worse than the disease. This is simply not the case. Ceasing all vaccinations would be foolhardy. Our challenge is to reduce vaccines to the least needed to prevent harm, while maintaining our current high level of protection against infectious diseases.”
Still, veterinarians have a legal and ethical obligation to inform their clients of the relative benefits and risks of vaccines so that pet owners can make informed choices regarding their animals’ medical care. There are times when not vaccinating may well be the wise, educated decision.
No ideal frequency
Vaccine manufacturers have long counseled against vaccinating dogs who are pregnant or those who are not healthy. But they do promote annual vaccination protocols, and they clearly reap monetary benefits from the widely accepted United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) recommendation issued 25-30 years ago supporting annual vaccinations. It is disturbing to discover that the USDA recommendation is not based on any scientific evidence. In fact, no scientific studies have ever been done to determine the optimum frequency of vaccinations. The annual booster policy was instituted in large part so pet owners would be prompted to bring their dogs in for an annual well-pet check-up, allowing veterinarians to find and treat other conditions promptly.
In Dr. Dodds’ opinion, vaccinating dogs annually against all the diseases that exist is too much. “While there will probably never be a study to definitively identify the effective length of vaccines because of the immense cost involved, a recent study we completed of 1200 dogs demonstrated that one to two years after the initial immunization, 94.4 percent of the dogs still had adequate immunities to parvovirus, and 97.3 percent were still protected against distemper. Some dogs were tested as long as six years after the vaccination, with similar results.”
This study and resulting discussions about its data seems to have initiated change within the veterinary community. In perhaps the most significant move seen in the industry, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) has published several papers supporting a move to three-year protocols. Many veterinarians and an increasing number of veterinary schools are rewriting their vaccination protocols to recommend three-year intervals between shots rather than annual boosters.
Colorado State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine is one of these. Their revised protocol statement says, “Our adoption of this routine vaccination program is based on the lack of scientific evidence to support the current practice of annual vaccination and increasing documentation showing that overvaccinating has been associated with harmful side effects.” CSU now recommends the standard puppy series, a booster one year later, then vaccinations every three years after that. Since overvaccinating can be a trigger for immune system problems, why vaccinate any more than necessary? (See the link for “Dr. W. Jean Dodds’ Revised Vaccination Protocol,” below.)
Vaccination contraindications
Drug companies and veterinarians agree that sick and pregnant dogs should not be vaccinated. The definition of “sick,” however, is left open to wide interpretation. Dr. Dodds and Dr. Wynn both advise not vaccinating in the following circumstances:
• If the dog is elderly
• If the dog is pregnant
• If the dog has symptoms of any ill-ness, mild or severe, including every-thing from low-grade chronic disease such as skin conditions to cancer
• If the dog has any other medical condition, including lameness
• If the dog is undergoing surgery
• If the dog is on any immune-suppressant drugs
Clearly, this list encompasses a much broader range of animals than does “sick or pregnant.” In general, if there is any question about the dog’s health status, it is better to postpone vaccination until the dog is clearly healthy.
In addition to not vaccinating some dogs, there are a number of other ways to reduce the risk of vaccine-related problems:
• Measure antibodies through titer tests and only revaccinate when indicated by low titers, OR . . .
• Reduce the incidence of booster shots to every three years after the first annual booster.
• Give individual vaccines instead of combined (such as DHLPPC), and don’t give several shots at one time.
• Watch your dog closely for several weeks following vaccination to look for any reactions that might influence your future vaccination decisions. ANY health problems following vaccination should be noted, whether the reaction is a hot spot outbreak, an ear infection, or something more dramatic, such as an epileptic seizure. It may be wise not to administer the same vaccine at any time in the future to a dog who reacts to the shot one or more times.
• Don’t vaccinate for Bordetella, corona virus or Lyme disease unless these diseases are endemic locally or in a specific kennel.
• Do not deworm or initiate new medicines at time of vaccination, and avoid the use of toxic flea and tick control products.
• Only vaccinate against diseases for which your dog is at risk (usually rabies, parvo and distemper). There have not been any reported cases of canine hepatitis in a very long time, and the leptospirosis vaccine is not effective against current prevalent strains that produce this disease. It is the leptospirosis vaccine that is most commonly associated with acute anaphylactic reactions in dogs.
Little support for nosodes
Nosodes are a homeopathic alternative to vaccinations, in which a small amount of the infectious agent is potentized in water (by vigorous shaking) and then diluted to such a degree that there is no longer any measurable amount of the agent in the liquid. Some holistic veterinarians believe nosodes to be effective in preventing disease. Others, including Dr. Wynn, are reluctant to place much faith in them.
“While they are certainly not harmful and perhaps they are beneficial, there is no scientific evidence to support their effectiveness,” says Dr. Wynn. “In fact, there is at least one study that clearly showed nosodes to be ineffective against parvovirus.”
No easy answer
As much as we all want easy answers to the vaccination question, there aren’t any. Even the revised vaccine protocols are general guidelines, not bibles for every dog. Here, at least as much as in any other aspect of our relationships with our four-footed companions, the holistic approach is critical. We must know our dog well and weigh all of the benefits and risks of vaccination in light of his unique self in order to be able to make the best decisions about what vaccination program is best for her.
Above all, whether in training, management or veterinary care, don’t ever let anyone convince you to do something to your dog that you know is wrong. You are his guardian and bear the ultimate responsibility for making the best choices for his well-being. As you wander through the forest of information and half-truths about vaccines and diseases, be sure to make your choices carefully and well.
-By Pat Miller
Pat Miller, a trainer and writer from Salinas, California, is a regular contributor to WDJ.
So, you’re leaving town for a few days. What ARE you going to do with Fido? Experts agree that the best situation for your dog’s health and happiness would be to have someone stay in your home, maintaining the dog’s regular diet and exercise, and preserving his comfort and sense of security, but this is not always possible. And while we know people who haven’t taken a dog-less vacation for the life of their dogs, we think this is a little extreme.
Only parents who have had to find safe, stimulating daycare for their small children will fully understand what is so difficult about finding a safe, enjoyable boarding kennel for your dog. You worry about abuse, poor hygiene and threat of transmittable disease, and the general stress of the whole situation. If your dog is something like ours – without “current” vaccinations, on a partly or wholly fresh foods diet, and accustomed to a lot of personal attention and exercise – your requirements for a suitable boarding facility may eliminate most kennels from your list of candidates!
Good news: Boarding kennels that feature enlightened dog care are on the rise. They may be expensive, and fully booked weeks in advance, but they exist. The trick is in weeding out the inferior facilities.
We asked several operators of top-quality facilities to tell us how they would choose a boarding kennel. Each emphasized the importance of taking a complete tour, visiting the facility more than once before your dog’s proposed stay, and asking a LOT of questions. We’ll discuss each of their suggested questions individually.
Questions to Ask Prospective Boarding Kennels
1. How do you keep the place clean?
Good basic hygiene is the first and foremost requirement of any kind of kennel. The operators simply must have a good system and adequate personnel to guarantee that feces is picked up promptly and urine is absorbed or washed away. Also, while it is critical that the facilities look and smell fresh, it’s also important that the chemicals used to clean the kennels, crates, or runs are nontoxic. Ask the operators how the facility is kept so clean, and specifically ask about their disinfectants. Look for the use of safe, natural disinfectants, like citrus-based products.
Also, the facility should have a method of disposing the dogs’ feces on a daily basis, whether it is a well-built and maintained composting system, a septic system, or access to a sewer system. Storage of feces on the property invites flies and other pests.
2. How safe and secure is the facility?
Every kennel should have a fencing and cross-fencing system, so that a dog who slips out of one enclosure can’t escape directly to a busy street or a wide-open prairie. The fences should be in good repair.
3. What accommodations are available?
Kennels vary widely, and you have to choose a place that has the sort of accommodations that your dog will be comfortable in. Some dogs can spend a weekend in a cage, with occasional potty breaks, without much stress or discomfort, while the same environment could practically kill other dogs. Some dogs can cheerfully handle life in a run, while others would have a nervous breakdown in any situation that didn’t resemble a home. You have to know your dog, and allow him to sample some different environments, before you commit him to a weekend stay.
Some facilities offer boarding in their own homes. Bart Emken, owner of DogBoy’s Positive Power Kennels, located in Pflugerville, Texas, has kennels with indoor beds for 30 or so “outside” dogs, but also offers “in-house” boarding for a small, select type of dog: “Elderly, small in stature, calm, and completely house-trained.”
4. How many people are on staff? Are the dogs checked after hours?
Some facilities are open only from 9 am until 5 p.m., after which the employees turn out the lights and go home for the night. As every pet “parent” knows, dogs can get sick at night, and the promptness of medical attention can make the difference between life and death. Choosing a facility that has caretakers within hearing range of the dogs at night is recommended, and a place that provides all night supervision (a caretaker who is awake and who occasionally checks on the dogs) is ideal.
5. How are your staffers qualified? What sort of training do they have in canine behavior or veterinary care?
It’s critical that all the people who have the opportunity to handle your dog be experienced and trained in proper dog handling. Jill Breitner, co-owner of Kindred Tails Bed & Biscuit, a boarding facility located in Valley Ford, California, and her partner are both licensed veterinary technicians, and both have studied with canine behaviorists; Breitner suggests that all kennel operators have these credentials as a minimum.
“Your dog can be traumatized by a single incident with an inexperienced person,” she warns. “Say a cleaner goes into a cage with a pooper-scooper, and the dog has never seen that sort of implement before. He gets scared and nips at the cleaner, who gets scared and shouts and hits the dog. I guarantee you that your dog will now be afraid of anyone with a long stick. The simplest things can cause major problems with dogs that have never been kenneled before.”
It’s also important that all the staff members be trained in gentle dog handling techniques, which is one of the primary attractions at DogBoy’s Positive Power Kennels. “We don’t believe in using choke chains, pinch collars, or even the word ‘NO’ in our training,” says owner Bart Emken. For this reason, “boarding and training” is a popular option among his clients.
When you set an appointment to inspect the facility, ask how many people they have on staff, and ask if you can meet several of them. If you don’t like the staff members, go somewhere else!
It’s also helpful if the facility has a veterinary health technician on staff, or at least, someone who is experienced enough to recognize early signs of illness in your dog.
Some veterinarians offer boarding, and there is one giant advantage and several disadvantages to this. Obviously, a vet’s staff is best suited to providing extensive medical care and supervision, if your dog needs that. But few veterinarians have overnight supervision; if your dog has a health crisis in the middle of the night, they might not know until it’s too late. Few vets’ offices have runs; often, the dogs stay in cages. And, finally, vets’ kennels also house sick dogs, potentially exposing your dog to disease.
6. How much exercise do the dogs get? How are they exercised?
Ask how long each dog gets out for, and whether anyone plays with the dog to ensure that it runs around and gets some exercise. At some facilities, the dogs are walked on leash, rather than turned out. This makes the handlers’ training even more important. You don’t want your dog being yanked around while you’re gone.
At The Common Dog, a daycare and vacation boarding facility located in Everett, Massachusetts, about 10 minutes from Boston Commons, the “daycare supervisors” are always present and interacting with the dogs out on the 5,000 square-foot dog play yard, giving tummy rubs, throwing a ball, and playing tug-of-war.
7. Do you offer any socializing? How is this accomplished?
Few boarding kennels offer or allow much socializing; many operators are afraid the dogs will hurt themselves or each other. However, if your dog regularly enjoys playtime with other dogs, socializing at the kennel can transform your dog’s stay from a sad endurance event into a fun-filled dog party. But the staff overseeing the socializing needs experience.
Breitner says all staffers at a socialized boarding facility should have some training in canine behavior. “The employees must be educated about canine behavior – individual dog behavior and pack behavior. Look for supervisors who have worked with a behavioral specialist,” she suggests.
Also, all dogs should be “interviewed” before they are permitted to board at a socialized kennel. Most managers of socialized boarding facilities first “pre-qualify” a candidate in a phone interview with the owner, asking whether the dog jumps fences, digs, or exhibits any other kind of escape behavior. They also ask whether the owner takes the dog to dog parks or other social situations, and whether the dog is used to playing with lots of other strange dogs. “Just because their dog regularly plays with one or two other dogs doesn’t necessarily mean that it is a friendly dog,” Breitner comments.
If all answers on the phone check out, the managers then invite the owner to bring the dog to the facility for an in-person interview. During the interview, Breitner uses her own well-socialized, “assertive, but not aggressive” dogs to test the candidates “getting along skills.” If the dog shows aggression, tries to escape the facility, or runs in terror from the other dogs, Breitner lets the owner know the animal is not a good candidate for socialized boarding facility.
8. What vaccinations do you require?
The only vaccination that is legally required of all dogs is rabies. However, many facilities require that a dog be current on every possible disease (and some even offer to vaccinate your dogs for a fee – a “favor” most of us would rather avoid). If you are trying to reduce the vaccinations your dog receives, or using titer tests to monitor your dog’s level of protection from disease, look for like-minded facilities.
9. Will you feed my dog the way I do?
Keeping any dog on the same diet as he is accustomed to is very important, especially while he is under stress. However, some kennel operators may be unwilling to prepare raw and/or fresh food diets. Discuss your dog’s diet in detail with the managers, and make sure they understand all the ramifications of feeding such a diet; don’t assume they know they must wash the dog’s bowls out with soap and hot water after each feeding of raw meat, for instance.
10. What sort of flea-control do you use?
Most kennels require dogs to be flea-free when they arrive, and many insist on giving a dog (and charging its owner) a flea bath if it arrives with so much as a single flea on it. Other facilities require the use of Advantage or some other topical toxins. If your dog is sensitive to these chemicals, or if you are simply trying to keep his exposure to them to a minimum (as WDJ recommends) discuss this with the kennel manager. Ask what sort of insecticides they use at the kennel.
11. What are your rates? What do you charge extra for?
These questions are important if your dog requires daily supplements, medication, acupressure, or other treatment. Prices for care may vary from as little as $12 per day to $40 a day or more, especially if your dog requires extra care for his coat or diet. But most facilities will be very specific about these charges, if you know to ask. For instance, at Best Friends Bed & Biscuit, a boarding facility located in Greensboro, North Carolina, each dog receives one daily playtime or a relaxing massage at no additional charge, with additional sessions available at a very reasonable $3.50 per session.
12. Can I see your boarding agreement?
Again, it’s best to see what sorts of requirements and expectations the operators have before you are due at the airport. While your line of questioning should be fairly exhaustive, you don’t want to be surprised by some odd requirement at the last moment.
As you have seen, it is difficult to make sure that you have satisfied yourself about every detail of your dog’s care. But remember, the goal is for you and your dog to go and have separate, but equally enjoyable vacations.
In September 1998, our female Bernese Mountain Dog, Annie, became lame with painfully swollen and inflamed joints that were noticeably warm to the touch. She was just over four years old at the time. The sudden initial onset of symptoms occurred about three weeks after her annual vaccinations and a three-year rabies vaccine.
We took her to the vet, of course, who conducted tests and more tests. A thorough blood work-up showed unusual and elevated antibody levels. All tests for Lyme disease, lupus, and rheumatoid arthritis were negative. A complete set of radiographs revealed an amount of arthritis in both elbows that was alarming for a dog Annie’s age, and her right knee was inflamed and full of fluid. Her right carpal joint was also visibly swollen and extremely painful when touched. She licked it incessantly.
After consultations with specialists, we received a diagnosis of nonspecific genetically-based or autoimmune polyarthritis (inflammation occuring simultaneously in multiple joints) as well as confirmed autoimmune thyroiditis (inflammation of the thyroid gland).
Within a month, Annie was limping terribly from the right shoulder and was unable to use her hind legs to jump at all. One night in early October, we realized that Annie could no longer hop onto our bed, but rather just laid beside it and pawed at the dust ruffle. We had to lift her onto beds, sofas, and the car; only a few weeks earlier, these situations were effortlessly negotiated. Now, Annie was unable to hop down to the floor, either; she would try to drag herself off of the furniture with her front legs if we didn’t assist.
Hitting rock bottom
Per our veterinarian’s recommendation, we administered two 75 mg. tablets of Rimadyl each day to ease the pain and control the swelling, but after some initial relief its effectiveness decreased and Annie’s limping and inflammation steadily grew worse. She became depressed and dispirited, and her body was soft and “squishy” from apparent fluid accumulation and lack of muscle tone.
In December, our veterinarian began administering weekly acupuncture treatments, and this did seem to provide temporary pain relief for Annie. However, it didn’t afford a long-term improvement in Annie’s health. After five months of conventional therapy, Annie’s vitality continued to slowly decline. We feared that if she continued on this course we may eventually have to make the difficult decision to end her suffering. Our veterinarian wisely considered it too risky at that time to prescribe steroidal treatments given Annie’s weakened immune system.
Taking a holistic tack
In late January, we located H. Jonathan Wright, a veterinarian in Spokane, Washington, who uses a specialized version of homeopathic medicine called sequential homeopathic treatment (see sidebar, next page). He also specializes in autoimmune disorders.
Dr. Wright took a very proactive, multi-pronged approach to Annie’s care. He immediately made some adjustments to Annie’s diet. We were already feeding Flint River Ranch, which he highly recommended, but he modified it by adding one of Dr. Richard Pitcairn’s all-natural raw diets for half of her daily rations (Pitcairn is the author of Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, one of the earliest books on the subject). Dr. Wright also recommended several supplements to give her body the strength to begin the healing process: antioxidants (grape seed extract) plus omega-3 fish oil capsules, Ester C, Glycoflex, and MSM in initially high dosages.
In order to keep her pain at a minimum, we also temporarily continued Annie’s doses of Rimadyl in conjunction with the new plan, just until we could get the inflammation under control. Annie had also been receiving two 0.4 mg tablets of Soloxine per day since October to elevate her T4 level to within normal range. Dr. Wright added two thytrophin tablets to her daily thyroid replacement therapy. Thytrophin is a natural bovine thyroid PMG extract with no thyroxine It acts as an antibody “decoy,” thus sparing the thyroid gland the autoantibody assault that was compromising her thyroid hormone production.
Homeopathic analysis
At Dr. Wright’s request, I prepared a detailed history of Annie’s medical treatments and conditions for his review and analysis.
The detailed timeline revealed a life-long reaction to her annual vaccines. While Annie had been, by all appearances, a healthy, normally robust and active dog with a beautiful shiny coat, she also suffered from several mysterious maladies throughout her lifetime that were inconsistent with her otherwise vital nature. She suffered from chronic conjunctivitis which had been attributed to undetermined allergies, miscellaneous annual infections, a ravenous eating disorder and subsequent weight problem, and a small lump close to a vaccine site which had to be surgically excised due to the suspicious nature of the tissue cells.
Eventually, Dr. Wright concluded that Annie had perhaps been suffering from lesser but more chronic manifestations of the very diseases that she had been vaccinated against, such as distemper.
After Dr. Wright analyzed Annie’s medical and personality profile, he administered a dose of the homeopathic remedy Thuja to help detoxify the negative effects of the vaccinations. Thuja is not administered in all cases of vaccinosis, but it was the appropriate remedy for Annie’s profile.
Within three days of treatment she became feverish to the touch, especially on the top of her head. After a week she experienced intensely acute arthritic symptoms with increased lameness and distressed panting that lasted about 3-4 days. Although this was a painful time for her, it was the reaction we were told to expect. These symptoms signaled that the healing process was beginning to take place; we had opened a pathway for the body’s natural healing response to begin. After two such episodes the inflammation subsided almost entirely and she started to improve dramatically within two weeks. We began replacing the Rimadyl with homeopathic remedies such as Aconitum for relief of her acute symptoms.
Better than ever?
One of the tell-tale symptoms of Annie’s illness was a chronic inflammation of the eyes, and they became even more inflamed when her joints seemed to be causing her pain. But following the first homeopathic treatment, for the first time in her life, Annie’s eyes were clear. As the swelling in her joints eased, her spirits elevated, and she soon began exhibiting a normal energy level. Within one month, her overall body tone tightened up. While it appeared at the time that she had lost a good deal of weight, in truth her weight remained stable. The inflammation that had invaded her body tissues appeared to have been arrested and she was no longer “squishy.”
Although Annie had vastly improved within a month, Dr. Wright and I agreed it would be beneficial to continue an aggressive sequential homeopathic therapy for Annie to rid her body of any residual toxins and neutralize the lingering effects of previous traumas, such as earlier vaccines, harmful effects of radiographs and surgical procedures. He began administering the homeopathic remedy Sulphur, which was a remedy appropriate to her specific constitutional profile. She has, to date, received specifically timed and formulated single- and multiple-dose homeopathic remedies as needed.
Additionally, we have been able to steadily reduce her thyroid replacement therapy as her overall condition improved. Her latest T4 level, which had ultimately elevated to an above normal rate, has now stabilized to almost within normal range on 0.2 mg of Soloxine daily compared to 0.8 mg, before the homeopathic treatment. It is our hope that as time goes on, we will have successfully corrected the imbalances that precipitated the hypothyroidism and she will no longer be dependent on synthetic hormone replacement.
Both of Annie’s veterinarians agree that her immune system cannot withstand the stress caused by annual vaccinations, and therefore we do not plan to vaccinate her again. To comply with state regulations requiring rabies vaccination, we will run a titer test when necessary. Hopefully, her level of immunity will be sufficient, and our local veterinary college will issue a certificate of adequate immunity.
After six months of sequential therapy with homeopathic remedies, Annie has had no recurrence of joint pain or inflammation, and has been normally active for the past five months. Each night she enjoys a free run in the fields around our home, pain-free. The same dog who could not tolerate mild joint manipulation last winter shows no pain response at all when examined these days. We still have work to do on her treatment schedule, and we fully anticipate the possibility of a brief reappearance of some earlier symptoms as we make the journey backward through her timeline. Still, her progress to this date, almost the one-year anniversary of her initial crisis, has been nothing short of amazing.
Videos are becoming an increasingly useful tool for dog owners who want to learn more about dog training. Of course, moving pictures will never replace a talented, real, live, positive dog trainer who can give you immediate feedback about your own training efforts with your dog. But videos can be a helpful component of your training program and an excellent way to expand your knowledge, especially if there are no good trainers within a reasonable driving distance of your home. The list of great, positive-based training videos is growing by leaps and bounds. Here are several new ones to add to your list, and a few to avoid.
During the early morning hours, the lions brought down a large giraffe. Enjoying their good fortune, the several lionesses, their cubs and the two handsome males ate their fill. As the day advanced and the heat became oppressive, they stretched out in the shade keeping a watchful eye on the remains of their meal.
Nearby, a jackal, cousin to the wolf and the domestic dog, sat patiently eyeing the pride and the carcass, hoping for a snack. The jackal looked at the lions, then turned his head and looked away. Again he looked back and this time he yawned.
Was the jackal merely tired from waiting? No, he was using calming signals, the universal canine language of peace, to avoid raising the ire of the lions. The wild canids of Africa and our companion dogs here at home share the same complex language of gesture designed to keep things mellow. In the turn of a head, the blink of an eye, a lick of the nose or a yawn, a whole story unfolds in the canine lexicon.
Turid Rugaas, an inquisitive Norwegian dog trainer and patient observer of canine behavior, has identified 27 different gestures dogs use to communicate with each other, signs she has labeled calming signals. Dogs and other canines use such signals to send messages of non-aggression to other dogs and animals of all species including us. The calming signals are thought to help relax the communicators themselves, at the same time.
Dogs Communicate in Order to Cooperate
The earliest wolf researchers focused largely on the aggressive tendencies in their subjects. Terms like “alpha female” and “dominance and submission” quickly entered our vocabulary when speaking about the behavior of dogs. Those researchers also spoke of cut-off signals in wolves, body language designed to cut off signs of aggression. But Rugaas says calming signals do more than stop aggression; they are proactive communications to help foster cooperation.
Rugaas acknowledges that wolves are a communal species. They live in packs and therefore must have a complex language and social structure designed to foster group dynamics. Think of the skills we must develop to get along with just a single partner, never mind a complex extended family.
For wolves, the pack is necessary for survival. Food is essential and so is the hunt. To bring down a large prey animal takes tremendous cooperation among pack members. Developing and maintaining a language to keep the peace is as essential for wolf survival as is getting the next meal. Wolves and dogs have a strong instinct for conflict solving, communication and cooperation, all a necessary part of pack behavior. They must get along to survive.
Our domestic dogs share much of the same DNA as wolves. According to Rugaas, the most frightening thing for a dog is to be alone. While we can teach them to accept aloneness, we must remember that by nature they, too, need a pack to feel safe. Without other dogs in the home, we become their pack. Learning their language can foster maximum respect and cooperation; when in Rome, speak Italian!
How Dogs Learn Their Language
Pups who are raised in a litter for the first eight weeks of their lives (and in the presence of older dogs) have the advantage of learning skills from their siblings and elders. They learn to accept the leadership of a just leader. They learn simple, but crucially important lessons such as bite inhibition. They come to understand when play is too rough or inappropriate. And they have the opportunity to learn the language skills that will enable them to be peaceful pack members.
According to Rugaas, dogs inherited the calming signals from their wolf forbears. All the different breeds all over the world – no matter what size, color, or shape they are – display these signals. “It is a truly universal language and a wonderful one because it means we can communicate with dogs wherever we meet them,” says Rugaas.
“Canine language in general consists of a large variety of signals using body, face, ears, tail, sounds, movement, and expression. The dogs’ innate ability to signal is easily lost or reinforced through life’s experience,” she says. “When we remove pups from their litters too early, or when we keep them from other dogs, even to prevent early puppyhood diseases, we may be doing them a great disservice by depriving them of the chance to practice their own language.”
Dogs Use Calming Signals on YOU!
The most obvious signals used by dogs are the threat signals: Barking, hardening the eyes, and showing teeth are fairly easy to notice. Charging and snapping gets anyone’s attention. Biting is pretty tough to miss. But we usually overlook the equally important calming signals. Our dogs are always trying to communicate with us, but are we listening, or should I say looking? Say you have come home late from work, frustrated that you have to go out again to a meeting. Or maybe you just want to catch a movie to relax, but you only have 20 minutes to change clothes and leave again! You greet Sparky at the door. He, of course, showers you with affection and enthusiasm by jumping in your face, while telling you vocally how happy he is to see you. You let him out in the yard to do his business. He runs this way and that, checking up on the news of the day by sniffing the lawn and bushes. When he is done relieving himself, you call him to come in. You’ve checked your watch and you are now running late. There is a bit of urgency in your voice. “Sparky, come!”
But Sparky starts sniffing again, and annoyed, you call him once more. This time Sparky looks up at you, then turns his head to the side, licks his nose and starts coming toward the back door in what appears to be a roundabout way, a curved route if you ever saw one. And he slows down.
You may be sure he’s just trying to make you late, but you are mistaken. Sparky has just made five attempts to calm you down: sniffing, turning his head, licking his nose, advancing in a curved line, and moving slowly. He has heard your irritation and knows something is amiss. He’s offering his best attempt to help you stay cool.
Let’s look at a few of the calming signals and expand our vocabulary.
• Sniffing
Of course, dogs sniff to sniff smells. But your dog may do it when another dog is approaching her, when someone is walking straight at her, or when a sudden situation occurs – for instance two dogs are suddenly too close. Or if you call your dog to you in a harsh voice or from a full front position. Face-to-face, eye-to-eye posture to a dog can be construed as somewhat aggressive or dangerous, so some calming down may be in order.
A very dog-aggressive Rottweiler I once worked with would root like a pig, sniffing furiously, when she first saw a dog approaching from a distance. Without understanding her need to send a calming message to the intruder, her owner, tugging on the leash, would deprive the dog of her “peace-maker’s voice.” Fearful of other dogs, the Rottie would then lunge like a barking fury to tell the perceived adversary to stay away.
• Turning the head
All signals may be quick movements or, as here, the head can be held to the side for some time. It may be as small as a looking away of the eyes or may involve turning the whole body away.
Your dog may turn her head to the side when a stranger approaches or a child offers an inappropriate hug. When two dogs meet, they may both look away for a second, and then greet each other happily. A self-assured dog may approach your dog very directly, but averting his eyes from side to side, sending the message that he is a friendly fellow. Your dog may lick her nose, turn her head to the side and be ready for a big hello.
This is a signal we can use to help greet scared, shy, or aggressive-behaving dogs. By approaching a new dog at an oblique angle and looking away, we can send the message that we are friend, not foe.
• Licking the nose
This can be a very quick movement of the tongue that is difficult to see, or it may be a clean swipe of the nose. Your dog may use it when being approached by another dog, or when you bend over your dog or make him uncomfortable in some way. Black dogs, whose facial features are not as easy to see from a distance, may use the licking signal more often.
Rugaas says it is a difficult one for people to use, but I use it having assumed that by licking my lips, though not actually getting to my nose, I’m “speaking” an understandable dialect.
• Yawning
This is a signal easily used by humans. It was the one chosen by our jackal to speak to lions. Your dog may yawn when at the veterinarian’s office or when being approached by a stranger. You may use it when your dog is a bit stressed, worried, scared, or when you want him to calm down. I have watched dogs look up at me in apparent amazement when they see me yawn and realize I am speaking their language.
Other signals include walking slowly or using slow movements, sitting down, lying down or using a stretch-in-place or the play bow. Walking in a curved line, lifting the paw, twirling around each other and blinking the eyes are also calming signals.
Teaching Your Dog Calming Signals
Rugaas employs her knowledge of these signals when introducing two dog-aggressive or shy dogs. With each dog on leash, she has their handlers approach from a distance allowing each animal to sniff, look away, lick or yawn as it chooses. By monitoring their reactions, she orchestrates the meeting, keeping the anxiety level low.
She does the same when introducing a shy dog to a new person. She may have the person approach in a curve, walking slowly, looking away and even sitting on the ground. By gauging the dog’s reaction she knows when it’s safe to let the dog come over to greet the person. Sometimes it may take more than one session.
By sharpening our powers of observation, we can begin our own adventure of exploration with our canine companions and assist them at the same time.
Boosting Interspecies Communication
I recently helped introduce a cat and dog who had to share a new house with each other. The cat was very self-assured and knew how to hold her own. The dog had lived and even slept with a cat before. The dog had great communication skills. My role became that of mediator. We handled the introductions slowly, observing the dialogue that took place between our two charges.
The cat was placed on the people bed in the dog’s room, while the dog was out of sight on the porch. As Elise, the cat, became comfortable, we brought Tucker, the dog, to the glass door. He cautiously looked away and licked his nose. The cat took the opportunity to study the dog, then she looked away, blinking her eyes. The dog now looked at the cat and looked away again.
Next, we brought Tucker into the room at a distance, and the dialogue continued. As they seemed to get more comfortable with each other, the dog yawned, then looked away once more. If Tucker looked a little too long at Elise, I called his name getting him to look at me and away from her. I had him sit, lie down and come to me, offering him food treats as incentive and reward, giving Elise the chance to see him in action.
By the end of the hour session, Tucker and Elise had both had a chance to observe each other in close proximity while feeling safe. The cat’s person had petted the dog, and the dog’s person had held the cat on his lap. The animals could see that each wanted to cooperate. We ended by allowing Elise to leave in her own good time. She hopped off the bed looking away from Tucker and slowly walked out the open door. Outside she licked herself, apparently pleased by the outcome. Tucker was equally happy and relaxed.
The next time you go to the dog park bring along your understanding of calming signals and check out the action. As you sharpen your observation skills, a whole new world will open before your eyes, and soon you, too, can get on talking terms with dogs. And while you’re at it, pay attention to your response when people make eye contact with you. Do you avert your eyes, walk across the street or flicker a brief smile? Maybe you already know more about calming signals than you think.
Author Jodi Frediani has spent a lifetime working with animals of all kinds. She is a Certified TTOUCH Companion Animal Instructor and TTEAM Horse Practitioner. She attended her first dog obedience classes at age 12, has been involved with TTEAM/TTOUCH since 1985 and currently teaches clinics in the United States and Africa.
We’ve had a sudden burst of questions regarding “Alpha dogs” in a multiple-dog household. We decided to have our ever-practical training expert, Dr. Ian Dunbar, answer these questions. Dr. Dunbar is a veterinarian and dog trainer residing in Berkeley, CA. A native of England, Dr. Dunbar is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the creator of the K9 Games, and is well-known for his renowned Sirius Puppy Training program, which he describes in his popular books and instructional videos.
Is the female always the Alpha in a two dog house? I try to give my four year old male a treat first, I greet him first and consider him to be #1, but am I doing the wrong thing or going against nature? Our one-year-old female seems to run the show now!
-LuAnne Marshall
via email
We have two female dogs: a five year old Newfoundland and a two-year-old Shih Tzu. They are rivals. They both like to chew on rawhide bones, even if I give them the exact same kind. As soon as the Newf gets up off of her “place” the Shih Tzu goes and steals her bone. Then the Newf wants the Shih Tzu’s bone! This occurs even if the Shih Tzu has a very small bone. Another annoying behavior is that the Shih Tzu barks in a very threatening way whenever the Newf barks to be let back in the house. The Newf goes outside frequently to enjoy the air, so this is very annoying. We would like the Newf to be the Alpha dog. What can we do to keep her position?
-Laurie Pevnick
Milwaukee, WI
I have two female German Shepherds: Casey, who is four and a half, and Tasha, who just turned three. They started fighting when we moved four weeks ago and have fought once a week since then. This is the second time they have had fights when there was a major change in the household. The first time this happened was in November 1998, when they fought about five times. We hired a trainer who deals with aggression and she taught us about hierarchy and showed us some exercises. We established Casey as the Alpha because she had always been the leader. They didn’t fight again until the recent move.
This time, Casey seems to always be the culprit. It seems that she wants to establish territory, that she’s jealous, and that she is not happy with our schedule changes. She attacks Tasha for what seems to be no reason. When they fight she won’t stop even when Tasha submits. It’s been terrible! Since June, I’ve been keeping them in separate rooms; they are together only when we are there and they are leashed.
Last week I took both dogs to a university behavioral clinic. Basically, the behaviorists felt that Casey is controlling, jealous, aggressive, and very anxious. They gave us exercises to do to relax them and teach them to “look” at us and defer to us.
They also said that, because of Casey’s inappropriate behavior, we should treat Tasha as the Alpha dog, meaning that we should do everything with her first, like we used to do with Casey, including putting her in the least liked room. The idea was that she would realize that she acted inappropriately and that Tasha has some status in our home. And, that we will have to do this for the rest of their lives, not just as a correction. But we are afraid of doing this because we think Casey will take it out on Tasha. We think she will get mad because Tasha is being preferred in our eyes and she is already jealous of her.
Should we change the hierarchy for the rest of their lives even though Tasha has always been the one to submit? Or could we just change it as a correction when Casey acts inappropriately with Tasha?
-Mary Hager
via email
Dr. Ian Dunbar replies:
There certainly is a lot of interesting information out there about Alpha dogs and submissive dogs and so forth, isn’t there? It is fascinating stuff, I agree, but when it comes to living with the dogs, what good is it doing anyone? Let me give you my version of relationships in a multiple dog household, and then tell you what I would do about the dogs that are causing trouble in the latter two letters.
It’s true that male dogs do establish a very firm and respected hierarchy, which male dogs respect. However, when you bring one bitch onto the scene, the whole thing just falls apart. Female dogs have a number of amendments to male hierarchical law, so many, in fact, that they often end up as the “top dog” in the household, even if they are much younger (as in the first letter) or much smaller (as with the Shih Tzu and the poor Newfie) than the male dog. And a two-female household is likely to be somewhat chaotic. But everything mentioned in the letters above is perfectly normal female dog behavior, and nothing to be worried about.
However, the writers also mention that they found the behaviors alarming and annoying. That’s different!
As to the dogs in the second letter: In my opinion, the discussion about maintaining the Newf’s alpha dog position is kind of a moot point – and actually laughable in the Shih Tzu’s eyes – because the Newf isn’t the alpha dog. It sounds to me as if the Newf and the Shih Tzu have worked out a very harmonious living relationship. The business of one dog wanting the other’s bone and so on is the normal behavior of any two dogs living together – like any two humans living together! And both dogs are females … This is classic girl-dog talk!
The real issue is, however, that it is irritating to have to witness the dogs’ little scenes. Simply establish a very simple “settle down” command so they will not be dashing across the room stealing this toy or that toy. If one of the dogs disregards the command to settle down, then ask that dog to leave the room, and remain in the room with the one that is obediently laying down. When my dogs are being too active, agitating around the room, doing all this chew toy stuff when I just want to sit down, meditate, have a cup of tea, or read a book, I just say, “Dogs: Lie down, thank you.” And if one dog breaks the “down-stay,” I say to that dog, “Newf, outside.” That ends that problem.
Hard work should pay off
The owners in the last letter are to be commended for trying so hard to do the right thing. But, personally, I don’t see the use of labeling the problem or coming up with complicated reasons why the dog is doing this or that. Trying to “put” one or the other dog in the dominant position is absolutely ridiculous. Plus, if you were to invoke a human analogy, you would never go for the solution that has been prescribed. If you have two kids squabbling, you wouldn’t say, “I am going to make this child the high ranking child, because he has been here the longest” or something like that. You simply get the kids to knock it off!
I think these owners would be a lot better off focusing their efforts on teaching the commands I just mentioned: “Settle down!” and “Outside!” But let me back up a moment. With any dogs that are squabbling, the first question that must be asked is, “Do these dogs hurt each other when they fight? Have you ever had to take one to the vet for stitches after a fight?” In the letters above, the answer to that question seems to be, “No.” Obviously, these dogs have had many altercations over the past year, and with that number of fights, it is very unlikely that the dogs are hurting each other, or even denting the skin, let alone puncturing it. So, what we are dealing with here has nothing to do with aggression, it has to do with two animals living together and having regular little altercations and arguments every day – no different than the average pair of siblings or the average married couple. These dogs are both perfectly normal in the respect that they have learned to resolve their various difficulties without causing harm to the other.
My own two dogs are great examples of this. On an average day, my female Malamute, Phoenix, and the male Oso, a mutt, have probably have half a dozen snits. I ignore these, unless it is a situation in which I want there to be quiet, whether I am concentrating at the computer or reading a book. If the snit goes on longer than three seconds, which seems to be my maximum tolerance, then I just tell them, “Outside! Leave the room!” Before I can even turn around, I have to laugh because I know I’ll see two heads in the doorway, saying, “Can we come in, please? We’re best friends now . . .”
As long as the dogs have good bite inhibition, and they are not hurting each other to the point where you are having to take them to the vet, don’t worry about the squabbles. If, on the other hand, the dogs are fighting for real, with blood and trips to the vet, that’s another story.
In the next issue, I’ll discuss what I would suggest doing in the case of dogs that fight to point of injury and bloodshed.
We adopted our rescue dog about a year ago. She had been a stray, and at the time we adopted her the vet thought she was about ten months old. Ever since we’ve had her she has had the same symptoms – she doesn’t seem to be able to properly digest her food. She is ravenously hungry all the time. She will eat unlimited amounts of anything – fruits, vegetables, yogurt, bread, anything she can get her paws on. And her stools are not normal; she has about four bowel movements per day, and they get progressively softer throughout the day.
She has been dewormed several times, had blood tests (for pancreatic enzymes, vitamin absorption, etc.), stool tests, had an endoscopy and a biopsy (they found a thickened abnormal intestine lining, but nothing else), she has been treated with various antibiotics, steroids, pepcid, we have tried different foods. Nothing seems to make a difference. She has seen two vets, one an internal medicine specialist.
The good news is she is a beautiful dog, she has a healthy coat, she is playful and never seems to be uncomfortable.
-Amy Mall Los Angeles, CA
We directed this question to Carolyn Blakey, DVM, of the Westside Animal Clinic in Richmond, Indiana. Dr. Blakey has been practicing veterinary medicine for 32 years, the last four in an all-holistic practice. She especially enjoys serving as a holistic veterinary consultant to clients all over the country.
First, the reason the dog is so hungry is because she is starving – not starving for lack of food, of course, but she is starving for a lack of nutrients.
This dog sounds like she has a disorder called pancreatic enzyme insufficiency, which is characterized by a ravenous appetite, voluminous stool, and failure to gain weight. It is caused by a loss of function of the portion of the pancreas that produces the digestive enzymes, and generally, this can be determined by measuring the pancreatic enzymes in the blood. Digestive enzymes help the dog move food to the molecular level, and are critical to proper digestion. Even though you mentioned that the vets had checked the dog’s pancreatic enzymes, and presumably found her enzymes to be in the “normal” range, I would suspect that she’s not getting the pancreatic enzymes she needs to properly digest and benefit from her food.
In my experience, if you give these “hungry” dogs a simple digestive enzyme supplement, the problem will resolve itself. There are many digestive enzyme supplements available (see “Resources,” page 24, for a some suggested products). I might also suggest putting the dog on a really good vitamin-mineral supplement. Wysong makes a product called C-Biotic that contains digestive enzymes, vitamins, and minerals, and it seems to make a tremendous difference. I’d give this supplement to a dog that is always hungry, or always having loose stools, or any dog with symptoms of maldigestion. Even if blood tests show that the pancreas is allegedly kicking out “enough” enzymes, supplementation with additional enzymes can reduce the burden that a stressed pancreas has to carry.
Some veterinarians have theorized that some of these hungry dogs don’t have enough stomach acidity to digest their food properly. I’ve also had great results with giving the dog one of Standard Process’ supplements for this – their product called “Betaine Hydrochloride” helps acidify the entire gastrointestinal tract; making the stomach a little more acid makes it do its job better. One experiment that might be worth trying is adding raw apple cider vinegar (a tablespoon for medium to large dogs, a teaspoon for small to medium dogs) to the dog’s food, to see if that improves her digestion and decreases her appetite.
And of course, you have to be thinking about a real food, natural diet for this animal. And particularly, consider finding food that the dog has to chew up; the digestive enzymes in dog saliva are very important for their digestion, much more so than ours. Dogs tend to just snarf their kibble and canned foods; there is very little chewing involved, which eliminates a very important digestive aid. So, if you can find a way to get that saliva going and mixing with the dog’s food before it gets down the dog’s throat, they have got a better crack at digestion. The best way to do this is feeding the dog raw bones that have chunks of meat all over them. The dog who has to chew and pull and wrestle to get his food off the bone gets the most digestive enzyme action.
Improving the quality of the dog’s food would help, but so might a simple change of the dog’s food. I have found dogs that can’t handle certain brands of foods. Often, it’s not even a matter of one or two ingredients that causes a problem, it’s just something about the formulation. You can sometimes feed a dog a different food with all the same ingredients, but made by a different manufacturer, and the dog starts improving. You mentioned that you’ve tried a few foods; if you can’t feed a “real food” diet, at least consider trying another food manufacturer or two. Good luck!
The July 1999 issue of WDJ contained an answer from an expert concerning urinary incontinence in the spayed female dog. Our readers had several additional suggestions for treating this condition:
I was so excited to read your article concerning urinary incontinence in the spayed female. For the first time in many years of owning spayed females, I have a Labrador who at four years of age had symptoms of this problem. Not wanting to use hormone replacement therapy, I looked for an herbal combination containing the best herbs for menopause in women. I have been using “Women’s Menocaps” from Wise Woman Herbals for over a year now, two capsules a day. They contain dong quai, burdock, black cohosh, motherwort and licorice.
Only once, when I ran out of capsules for a couple of days, has she had an accident. Otherwise, my girl can sit with me on the family room couch and sleep with me in bed without fear of accidents.
-Sue Nolen Warrenton, VA
Wise Woman Herbals, of Creswell, OR, can be contacted at (800) 532-5219.
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My spayed, older Giant Schnauzer had urinary incontinence. At one time she was on DES, before my vet stopped using it. He suggested at that time that I try her on black cohosh. This has worked successfully for over a year. She gets one capsule a day along with her meal. Black cohosh is readily available at any natural food store, and no prescription is needed.
-Katie Britt McCloud, CA
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I’ve had good luck with a homeopathic solution made by HomeoPet for my dog’s urinary incontinence. I buy the small bottles of liquid remedy from Chamisa Ridge, a catalog order company that features a wonderful selection of natural products for dogs, cats, horse and rider.
A hint: don’t put the homeopathic drops in your dog’s water bowl if other dogs drink out of it or else it could precipitate the symptoms in otherwise healthy animals. (Ask me how I know!)
-Debbie Underwood, Flatwallet Farms Roswell, NM
HomeoPet, of Westhampton Beach, NY, can be reached at (800) 556-0738. Chamisa Ridge, of Santa Fe, NM, can be reached at (800) 743-3188 or www.chamisaridge.com.
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I have a five-year-old Rhodesian Ridgeback mix, Mattie, who we adopted at one of our local shelters when she was one year old and already spayed. We noticed very soon on that she was incontinent at night. She was completely housebroken, but puddles – usually small, but sometimes large – would appear where she slept. I had her on phenylpropanolamine for about three years while I continued to look for a more natural method. I, personally, was not pleased with the side effects I read about in the Merck Veterinary Manual.
About a year and a half ago, I found a product made by HomeoPet called “Urinary Incontinence” at my local health food store. I’ve had excellent luck with this product. I also always try to make sure that she goes outside to potty before evening bed and before work, etc. I can’t recall the last “accident” she had. I’m just now experimenting with trying her on the product once a day (I believe it calls for 2-3 times a day, I was doing twice a day).
The product is definitely more expensive than the pharmaceutical, but in my opinion, worth the cost. Two catalogs come to mind immediately that currently carry it: Chamisa Ridge (which also carries “Devil Be Gone” flower essences discussed in an earlier WDJ issue, another great product) and The Vitamin Shoppe. Each bottle costs about $9.95 and I’m sorry to say I can’t tell you how long it lasts as I’ve never kept track (I suspect about three weeks at 10 drops twice a day).
Air Travel Advisory I wrote to you some months ago regarding airline safety while transporting dogs. I feel compelled to report an incident on Delta that occurred this week. While traveling from Philadelphia to New York, a dog was kept on the tarmac for about two hours, then in a non-air-conditioned cargo hold for the duration of taxi (one more hour). This occurred in 98 degree heat of late afternoon. Arrival in New York was no better; the dog was kept in the compartment for about another hour during ground holds in the same temperatures.
The owners were distraught and were not permitted to check on their dog. We, (the flight attendants) were the ones to check to see if the dog was OK. The dog was, in fact, OK, but not well.
So much for the airlines’ purported policy of keeping animals out of extreme heat during airline travel. I’m sure that this was not this summer’s only incident like this. Anything to turn a profit!
On my days off (Ha!), I’m not an activist. I don’t stop people whose dogs are wearing choke chains to preach to them about the virtues of headcollars, nor do I take the opportunity to tell the people in front of me in the supermarket line to put that Dog Chow back and get some real food!
But sometimes, just participating in a friendly, casual discussion with other dog owners at our local park results in my being “outed” as an agitator for holistic dog care.
For example, just the other day, as Rupert and I played a little fetch at the park, I found myself drawn into a conversation about vaccinations. People were talking about itchy dogs, comparing notes on which foods seemed to trigger allergies in some dogs and which ones didn’t. I was holding my tongue. Then someone said, “Your dog’s coat is so beautiful; what do you feed him?”
I told them the name of the food (I’m not a “raw feeder” yet, but soon!) and added, “Rupert’s coat has looked great ever since I changed his food and stopped vaccinating him.”
As I said this, several people in the group immediately shot sharp glances in Rupe’s direction, as if looking for signs that he was diseased, or somehow posed a threat to their dogs. One woman asked me incredulously, “You don’t vaccinate?” It was as if I had said I never fed my dog.
It didn’t happen that day, but more and more, when I inadvertently expose myself as a vaccination rebel, I see nods of understanding and agreement, rather than stern, accusing expressions. Other “outlaws” are having similar experiences. I was at an animal shelter one day when a woman came in and started telling the clerk, in a very defensive tone, all the reasons why she couldn’t possibly vaccinate her elderly, sick dog for rabies, as per local animal regulations. The clerk cut her off with a smile, saying, “Just bring us a note from your veterinarian and we will waive the requirement for your license.” The woman walked out looking dazed; she had clearly expected a fight.
And I’m happy to hear that, even at shows and training camps, more and more event organizers will accept high titer tests in place of recent vaccinations in order to attend.
Just the other day, I received the following e-mail from a reader, Aimee Schilling:
“I am very glad that you are addressing the vaccination issue, but feel there is more information that needs to be presented. I just came back from Jack and Wendy Volhard Top Dog Training Camp where both dogs and owners are trained in obedience AND nutrition and health. Wendy Volhard has been researching the health of dogs for more than 30 years. At this conference she talked about a meeting with Dr. Ron Schultz of the University of Wisconsin, a noted professor of immunology for both the vet and med school. His current recommendation for vaccinations of new pups are as follows:
“1. Have the breeder draw a blood sample of the mother after whelping to check her titer level. There is a chart called a nomogragh which Dr. Schultz uses to predict how long the mother’s protection is available to the pups.
“2. Vaccinate for Parvovirus at 12 weeks.
“3. Vaccinate for Distemper at 16 weeks
“4. Titer four weeks later and check immune levels and this should protect a dog for life.
“Currently I titer on an annual basis for my own peace of mind. My dog Murphy is four and has not had a booster since he was a year, though he is on the three year rabies program per the law.”
Activist or not, I’m thrilled to see people using (and discussing) more reasonable vaccination practices. The proof is in the pudding; my dog has never been healthier.
Let’s get one thing straight: A dog’s gotta chew what a dog’s gotta chew. Dogs chew to exercise their jaws, to clean their teeth and gums, and to relieve boredom. It’s a completely instinctive and healthful activity. Once upon a time, dogs chewed happily on bones that were left over from our meals. However, this age-old practice has slowly changed as humans have come to rely (largely) on processed foods. Today, few home kitchens provide a steady supply of bones to the household dog.
As our eating habits changed, so have our perceptions of food safety. Over the years, real bones vanished from our dogs’ recreational and nutritional menu as “responsible” dog owners were advised to avoid them – something we are now coming to see was misguided.
Unfortunately, if a dog can’t chew one thing, he will chew another. We realized that one of our dogs’ most basic needs had been left unmet, and a billion-dollar market was born.
Aside from the original rawhide chew – of which there are innumerable brands and types available – there are now “sushi” chews, pig snouts, jerky-flavored turkey necks, and peanut-butter basted rawhide rolls. There are lamb ears, donkey hooves, and supposedly succulent pork “tenderloins” made from pig unmentionables. There are sterilized bones, smoked bones, plastic and rubber bones, and many petrochemical bones – one held together by a polymer similar to Elmer’s Glue.
But with the advent of the commercial dog chew market, the safety consciousness that led us to take real bones away has been diffused. While it is now easy to find products aimed at our dogs’ need to chew, in fact we know less and less about what they are made of – and, therefore, how healthy for our dogs they may or may not be.
How Regulated Are Chew Toys?
In theory, dog treats and chews are subject to an overlapping web of regulation. The federal Department of Agriculture oversees the manufacture of livestock feed and various agricultural grains. Our ultimate food authority, the Food and Drug Administration, examines the enormous family of food additives. The FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine investigates product health claims, such as dog foods classifiable as drugs, an d has published guidelines pertaining to edible dog products. The Federal Trade Commission regulates interstate business activities. The Environmental Protection Agency sets toxicity levels for food products and industrial production. And the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) oversees the manufacture of dog foods.
We would like to assume that these regulators are watching over the interests of our dogs, that any products we can buy at a store to feed or entertain our dogs are safe, that independent laboratories are regularly analyzing those products for toxins and contaminants, and that product labels accurately represent what those products contain. Unfortunately, none of these assumptions would be justified.
In fact, to examine real-world government oversight of the pet food industry – from a consumer perspective, is to walk through the looking glass – into a legally-sanctioned yet unethical world where deception has been codified, where products are often both more and less than the sum of their listed parts. In the real world, none of these federal agencies exercise meaningful regulatory oversight of the pet food industry, much less the dog chew industry.
The best candidate for the job, clearly, is AAFCO. But for all practical purposes, AAFCO is a trade association. While AAFCO is comprised of state and federal feed control officials, as well as representatives of the feed industry, it is not a government agency, and adherence to its minimal nutritional standards is voluntary. From the perspective visible to the average consumer, AAFCO is almost solely concerned with establishing labeling definitions for dog food manufacturers subscribing to its standards.
A “Value Added Industry”
It’s meaningless to discuss the chew market without briefly addressing the larger picture of the dog food market, since they are parts of the same economic equation. Today, most pet foods are made by agricultural conglomerates, which maximize profits through the minimized waste made possible by vertical integration.
When animals and crops leave factory farms, they are quickly transformed into a vast range of commodities – in general, what humans eat or use, and then what’s left: grain tailings, stripped animal carcasses, and those animals deemed unfit for human consumption. Pet food brings some $10 billion annually into the economy, based largely on products that would otherwise be wasted as “unfit for human consumption.”
According to the Pet Food Institute, a commercial trade association, “The purchase and use of these ingredients by the pet food industry…provides an important source of income to American farmers and processors.” Few dispute the American farmer’s right to make a living, but many dispute the manner in which these ingredients are marketed.
In the mildest terms, low quality foodstuffs, often heavily preserved, are sold as something other than what they are. Controversial artificial preservatives like BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin, which the FDA has designated as “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS), have been linked to canine health problems like heart and kidney disease, cancer, and immune disorders.
Manufacturers legally “hide” preservatives and other synthetic chemicals added by upstream suppliers – mills, rendering plants, etc. – whose organic products require preservation. They need list only those chemicals which they themselves add to a product. As a result, many manufacturers choose to market their products as “all-natural,” which may or may not be true by any reasonable understanding of those words, and which, in any event, carry no legal authority whatsoever.
Many of these products claim to be “healthy,” “premium,” “all-natural,” or “gourmet.” In fact, these products may or may not contain better or safer ingredients than products that don’t make these claims. According to the Food and Drug Administration, however, none of these claims have any official regulatory standing. Consumers are largely left to fend for themselves: The makers of “Treats and Chews,” as this market segment has been designated by the FDA, face significant oversight only at the level of permits required for production.
Chews Are Not Really “Food”
And since treats and chews are exempt, with the exception noted below, from AAFCO guidelines, we should briefly review the FDA’s guidelines regarding dog treats. As long as the product does not make claims of nutritional completeness (as some dog biscuits do) it is not required to list a “guaranteed analysis,” or any information other than net quantity, the manufacturer’s name and location, and the product’s list of ingredients, or single ingredient if that is not made obvious in the product name. Unfortunately, the issues for your dog are very serious. At the very least, manufacturers are unilaterally – and legally – making decisions about your dog’s long-term health, and not telling you what those decisions are, or how and why they were made.
According to Sharon Benz, an animal scientist at the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine, “There is no pre-approval for food products required by the FDA, provided their ingredients are generally recognized as safe…It is the responsibility of the manufacturer/distributor to ensure the products they are placing into commerce are safe and in compliance with FDA regulations.”
It is only fair to state that human health is the FDA’s primary mandate; as Benz forthrightly stated, dog treats and chews are a “low priority.” In general, the FDA investigates overt product health claims and specific, documented consumer complaints.
Let the Buyer Beware
The message to dog owners here is: Caveat Emptor. It isn’t just a question of what your dog is eating for dinner. Most of us give our dogs treats and chews, and these often add up to a significant dietary factor. The fact is, we can’t be sure of what these products really contain, and whether those ingredients are safe. Until complete and honest labeling is required, dog owners should avoid those products with minimal, incomplete, or obviously deceptive labels – and when in doubt to contact manufacturers directly. Finally, use common sense. With a little practice, it is easy to spot the more absurd product claims: A length of bone filled with semi-moist meat by-products, with an implied shelf-life stretching to eternity, is not – and cannot possibly be – either all natural, or chemical free, in any reasonable understanding of those words.
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
