The file of dog park photos I have taken is thick. I shot most of these photos during three or four different multi-hour trips to local dog parks with the generic intention of having a good supply of stock images for future use.
This month, I spent an hour or two looking through the file for pictures to accompany trainer Mardi Richmonds article on dog park play. Specifically, I was looking for clear examples of canine bullying and appeasing; dogs who were looking for fights, and dogs who wanted to avoid them. After my first pass through the stack of some 400 photos, I had two stacks: shots of dogs playing especially nicely, and dogs who were showing some indication that their intent was less than nice.
When I examined the two stacks more closely, to my amusement, several canine characters showed up half a dozen times in one stack or the other consistently exhibiting exaggerated gestures that clearly indicated their play personalities.
I hadnt consciously followed any one dog when taking these pictures, but in attempting to shoot dog-dog interaction, I had unwittingly focused on certain charismatic dogs. The standouts in the nice play stack included a big Shepherd-cross play-bowing in front of several different playmates, and a young Lab who appeared in every frame either licking his nose, standing still with his head averted and tail low, or lying down submissively.
The not-nice stack had at least a dozen different shots of a female Boxer-mix standing assertively over half a dozen different victims. Interestingly, I had no images of her playing with other dogs, only shots of her bullying other dogs.
I hope that Richmonds article on dog park play and my accompanying photos will help you recognize the dogs who would make fun, healthy playmates for your dog, and those who should perhaps be avoided for your dogs emotional and physical well-being.
Speaking of health, CJ Puotinens great article on pasture-fed meat sure has me reevaluating my diet, not to mention that of my dogs. The more I learn about milk, eggs, meat, poultry, and even fish that comes from factory farms, the more I am tempted to move to the country and grow my own. At the very least, Im buying organic pasture-fed beef for all the consumers in my household from now on.
If I wasnt determined to do so before, I am now, after reading that the Canadian cow who had been determined (in May) to have mad cow disease had ended up in dry dog food in the U.S. in February or March. Dependence on multinational companies for our food supply is getting more perilousall the time.
Spend any amount of time watching dogs play, and you’ll quickly learn how much fun two or more canine pals can have romping and wrestling. And you can’t beat playtime for exercise and burning off energy. But dog play does a whole lot more than simply provide an opportunity for fun and exercise; it helps dogs learn important communication and life skills. Play and socialization can mean the difference between a dog who is friendly toward other dogs, and one who is shy, anxious, or even aggressive.
Unfortunately, not every social encounter provides the kind of positive learning experience that helps dogs develop good social skills. In some cases, playtime can actually teach dogs to behave badly around other dogs. If social time goes very wrong, it can do emotional or even physical harm to your dog. But with a little caution and a bit of dog sense, you can ensure your dog’s play encounters provide the best in both fun and social learning.
Why dog play is important
Puppies and dogs learn essential canine manners and social skills when playing. Through play, they can also learn to tolerate frustration and to control their excitement. Without puppyhood play, dogs have a much greater risk of nervousness or aggression toward other dogs later in life.
Perhaps the most important behavior that puppies learn from playing with other puppies and dogs is bite inhibition – the ability to control their mouths. While bite inhibition is first established when a puppy is six or seven weeks old, ongoing play with other dogs throughout puppyhood reinforces a soft mouth. There is no better way for a dog to learn to control how hard or softly he bites than through playing with other dogs.
Socializing with other dogs, however, should not start and end in puppyhood. Playtime during adolescence teaches dogs social skills that they will use for successful adult interactions. They begin to learn to behave as “dogs” instead of as “puppies.” As young adults, they continue to refine those skills. It’s not uncommon for young adult dogs to suddenly begin experimenting in their behavior with other dogs. Positive social interactions at this stage of life are very important to reinforce appropriate behavior and social interactions.
As dogs mature and grow older, continuing social interactions will help them maintain their meeting and greeting skills. In her book, The Other End of the Leash, trainer and behaviorist Patricia McConnell writes, “ . . . dogs need to learn that part of what’s normal and familiar in life is to meet unfamiliar people and dogs.” Regular interactions with novel dogs help reinforce the idea that meeting new dogs is simply a part of everyday life.
Will they be friends?
Your role in your dog’s play with other dogs is to always pay attention. Too often, people take their dogs to dog parks or play areas and ignore them while they visit with the people. Taking the opportunity to socialize with other dog people is certainly one of the perks of dog parks, but you have to pay attention to your dog, too!
When two dogs meet for the first time, there is sometimes a bit of initial tension. If both dogs are friendly and have good social skills (and they are off leash so they have the opportunity), they will generally approach each other on a bit of an arc or circular path. They may sniff and check each other out. At that time, either they will choose to disengage, or to engage in either play or conflict.
How can you tell what will happen? Watch the dogs and they will tell you through their body language. For example, ears back, a slightly lowered body stance, barely visible hackles on the shoulders, and a low tail may tell you that the dog is nervous about the meeting. Depending on the reaction of the second dog, the nervousness may be calmed, or it may be intensified. Learn and watch for your dog’s signals; his behavior will let you know whether he is comfortable in any given situation.
If dogs choose to disengage, respect their choice. Give them the opportunity for personal space. Encouraging dogs to continue to engage when they are setting good boundaries for themselves could lead to an avoidable conflict.
If the dogs decide to play, continue observing their behavior. Watch how they play. Does your dog seem to be enjoying the interaction? Does the other dog? Are they frequently changing positions, with one dog in charge or on top first, then the other? Sometimes this is hard to see. Try to notice if they seem to be taking turns. If your dog is not enjoying the play or if the play seems one-sided, you may want to separate the dogs and take your dog to another corner of the park.
If you see that the dogs are not happily greeting, you may be able to separate them before a conflict erupts. A cheerful, “Come” or “Let’s go!” can sometimes help give your dog permission to leave the situation. Please note: The timing of the “Come” will make a difference. If you call too early, your dog may not be able to make a graceful exit (and may choose to continue with the greeting rather than be rude or put himself in harm’s way). This is not a time to worry about whether your dog responds instantly to your call. Try calling again when you see a pause in the greeting ritual.
Play time gone bad
Some squabbles and dogfights can’t be avoided. But many can. An inappropriate play situation can lead to tension or a fight between dogs. It may also teach your dog to behave badly in future social situations. While it is important to give dogs the opportunity to deal with a variety of social situations, you want to make sure the “play” will not (as one dog trainer I know puts it) “send them to therapy.”
What can you do when you see that playtime is taking a turn for the worse? Get your dog out of the situation – immediately. Watch for four situations in particular: overly aroused dogs, bully dogs, pack behavior, and predatory behavior.
If you see the dogs are becoming overly aroused – getting so wound up that their play style begins to look less playful and more aggressive – it is very important to have them take a break from play. It may be that the dogs just need a little break, and then they will be ready to play again. Some dogs, like some children, get more active or wound up when they are tired.
If you know your dog is tired, or you see his arousal level going up, you may need to help him disengage. If you can’t have him take a break (for example, taking him to another part of the park while the other dogs continue to play), you may need to remove him from the park altogether. Letting tired dogs continue to play could result in them forgetting their basic manners, or ending up in a fight.
Beware, also, of dogs exhibiting bully behavior. Some young dogs do “test out” bullying. Usually, the dog will try out the behavior on one or two dogs, get firmly told off, and consequently modify his behavior.
Occasionally you may run into a confirmed bully at the dog park or other off-leash area. This dog may be uninterested in actual play, spending most of her time between scanning the park for potential victims and bullying those victims. When she does engage in play, she will always be the dog “on top,” rolling the other dogs to the ground or standing over them. She is often the first dog to rush toward any other dog-dog conflict in the park, seeking an opportunity to jump on whatever dog is on the receiving end of punishment.
If you see a dog exhibiting bullying behavior in a play area, keep your dog away! Bullies can and will create an atmosphere that can result in conflicts and even fights between dogs who would otherwise get along just fine.
If your dog has a tendency to bully other dogs – for example, if he continually “picks” on another dog or does not stop playing even when the other dog obviously wants to disengage – use caution in choosing playmates. Playing with other dogs that “allow” or tolerate the bullying could actually serve to reinforce your dog’s bully behavior. Ideally, you’d find dogs who will play with your dog, but who won’t tolerate bullying behavior. Let them teach your dog not to be rude!
Finding the ideal dogs to teach your dog manners may be difficult, however, and you may have to intervene instead. The type of intervention will depend on your dog’s age and the severity of the behavior. It could be as simple as a brief time-out each time the bully behavior begins. Or, it could mean a more involved behavior modification program. If your dog is behaving like a bully, consult with a behaviorist experienced in dog-to-dog interactions. Letting the behavior go unchecked may result in a dog who doesn’t get taken anywhere any more.
In addition, where groups of dogs congregate, watch for pack behavior. When dogs “pack up,” the rules of play change. It’s not just dogs who live together who will pack up, either; dogs who regularly play together at a dog park can form what I call “play packs.” A group of friendly dogs that get along smashingly well with each other can suddenly engage in conflict when a new dog enters the scene. In addition, one dog in a playgroup can sometimes become a target for the rest. Interrupt and extract your dog if a group of dogs begins to charge, chase, or pay extra attention to any single dog. Whether your dog is part of the pack, or on the outside of it, he could learn unwanted behavior.
Predatory behavior occurs when one dog reacts to another dog as if he is a prey animal. The result can be fatal, with the predatory dog trying to or succeeding in killing the other dog. Predatory behavior may simply be due to a momentary error; the dog who sees a cute fluffy little dog bouncing through an open field may think for a moment that it’s a bunny rabbit. In this case, the predatory dog may or may not do harm to the fluffy little dog. He may run up, discover it’s a dog, and immediately back off. Or, he may be in such a prey drive state that he doesn’t register the cute fluffy creature as a dog at all, possibly hurting or killing the small dog.
What behaviorist Jean Donaldson has referred to as “predatory drift” is a different type of risk for small dogs playing with big dogs. It occurs when a bigger dog suddenly, and seemingly without warning, reacts to a smaller dog when the small dog squeals or struggles when playing or fighting (out of excitement or because of a minor injury). It’s thought that an instinctive part of the big dog’s brain is triggered to kill the squealing “prey.”
Predatory drift could occur in an instant, even when two dogs know each other, like each other, play together regularly, or even with two dogs who are family members. The phenomenon is an uncommon but very real risk for any small dog who lives or plays with larger dogs.
Dealing with fights
Whenever you have dogs playing with other dogs, conflicts will arise. They may argue, or actually get into a full-blown fur-flying squabble. What should you do? Should you let them “work it out”? This is a judgment call and one that I believe should be approached with great caution – erring on the side of intervention.
Recently I observed a young dog getting picked on by a group of adolescent dogs at a park. The young dog exhibited calming signals and unsuccessfully tried to hide under a chair to escape the snarls, nips, and body slams of three bullies. Her guardian said she thought her young dog was overwhelmed and that perhaps it was time to leave. Another dog’s owner replied, “Oh no, you shouldn’t take her away. She needs to learn to work it out with the other dogs.”
This was not a situation in which the dog should have “worked it out” on her own – she was being mistreated by a group of bullies! She needed help and protection from her person. Left to her own resources, she may have been forced to either tolerate abuse, or resort to serious aggression to get the bullies to back off. Fortunately, her person had the good sense to leave, in spite of pressure from the other owners.
It’s difficult to know when to let dogs “work it out” and when to intervene. I’ve come up with my own loose set of guidelines. Trust your own judgment and err on the side of protecting your dog!
• If a dog admonishes another dog or puppy, the correction is administered quickly, fairly, and without doing harm, and the second dog responds by backing off, letting them work it out is okay.
• Sudden, quick disagreements that are over in a matter of seconds – and where neither dog shows any indication of wanting to continue the argument – may be okay. For example, if two dog friends are playing and suddenly have a minor squabble, disengage and start playing again, it’s probably safe to let them continue to play.
• I immediately interrupt any situation that seems to be escalating, separating the dogs. I would prefer to avoid any potential risk to my dog, especially if the other dog is unfamiliar to me, and I don’t know whether he has a hard or soft mouth.
• If a dog seemed to enjoy fighting with other dogs, I would not let him “work it out” under any circumstances, as it will reinforce the fighting behavior.
Finding the perfect playmates
Each time we take our dog friends to play with other dogs, we make choices that can either increase or decrease the likelihood of our dog having a positive experience. Consider carefully which dogs you will encourage your dog to play with, and which dogs you will avoid. Spend some time observing the dogs present before entering the park with your dog.
In addition, if you take your dog to a doggy daycare or a training class that incorporates off-leash playtime, be sure the instructor carefully selects playgroups. Make sure play style, age, size, and the number of dogs are taken into account.
I believe that it is our role to protect our dogs, even when it comes to play. This shows our dogs that we are in charge (so they don’t have to be) and helps build and maintain their trust. I also believe that we expect and encourage our dogs to live a lifestyle that demands our active participation to keep them safe. Remember: our dogs do not choose to live in the kind of crowded urban conditions that require them to get along with great numbers of new dogs – we bring them to those conditions. With that in mind, I’d like to add these thoughts:
• Always protect your dog in social situations. Provide him with safe playmates. Don’t force your dog to remain in social situations that are obviously uncomfortable. Watch out for rude dogs – dogs who invade your dog’s space or intimidate your dog. Step between them or move your dog away.
• Size does matter! Many dog parks have separate areas for small dogs and big dogs, and for good reason. Tiny dogs probably should not play with huge dogs, no matter how sweet or gentle the big dog is, nor how energetic and tough the smaller dog. Even the sweetest big dog can inadvertently hurt a smaller dog in play. The risk of predatory behavior and predatory drift is another good reason to avoid large dog/small dog play.
• Consider the dogs’ ages; similar energy levels and play styles are often associated with age. You shouldn’t put your twelve-year-old, arthritic dog in with a bunch of rowdy, body-slamming adolescents. On the other hand, a good mix of dogs, both older and younger, can help teach a young dog how to get along well with all sorts of dogs.
• How many dogs are present? Because dog parks are fenced, they protect dogs from cars and other hazards. But the fencing also provides a barrier that can inhibit a dog’s ability to create space from the other dogs. It’s important to evaluate whether there is adequate space for the number of dogs in the park.
Even in larger or open areas, some dogs may be happy meeting and visiting with a few dogs, but too many will cause stress. A dog may be comfortable greeting 5, 10, or even 15 new dogs in one outing. But 20 or 30 dogs may put him over the top. There is one large, open space dog park in our area that regularly hosts up to 30 or more dogs. This amount of stimulation may simply be too much for some dogs. Each dog has a different tolerance for meeting and greeting new dogs. Get to know your dog’s comfort level.
• The most important thing – know your dog. Learn her behavior cues and stress signals. Watch for them. Observe her body language. Look at her ears, tail, hackles, how she carries her body. Does it look like she’s having fun? Does it look like she’s trying to end the game or keep it going? Is she getting too wound up? Don’t wait until your dog is pushed too far. Pay attention to the early signals. Your dog’s safety and comfort depend on it. Know her social strengths and weaknesses. Just as with people, different dogs enjoy different games. Some dogs love nothing more than to get a whole pack of friends to chase them. Some dogs never run or wrestle with other dogs, but thoroughly enjoy cruising, sniffing, and marking around other dogs. Some dogs are flexible and can adapt to a variety of play styles.
Knowing how your dog likes to play is important when it comes time to choosing playmates. If you provide her with opportunities to play with appropriate partners, she will maintain her strengths and overcome her weaknesses. Learn how to stretch and expand your dog’s social skills in a way that will keep her healthy, happy, and playing with other dogs for years to come.
– Use dandelion as an adjunct to your dog’s fresh, wholesome, nutritious diet for best effect.
– Grow your own dandelion, and try it yourself!
– If a veterinarian has prescribed a pharmaceutical diuretic for your dog, ask her about slowly replacing the drug with dandelion, under her supervision.
There is no such thing as a stand-alone herb that serves every purpose; each herb in my medicine chest serves as an integral part of an interdependent health care system. However, there is a single herb that persists and flourishes in my memory, just as it does in the fields and gardens where it lives.
I’m not speaking of a rare plant, harvested under the supervision of an aboriginal medicine man from the primordial rainforests of South America. Nor is my favorite herb meticulously farmed in high-tech greenhouses under the scrutiny of horticultural experts. Much to the contrary. The herb I’m talking about is a common, and often-hated weed: Taraxacum officinale, the humble but lovable dandelion.
Dandelion offers a broad spectrum of medicinal and nutritional applications that can be freely accessed and safely employed by anyone. Contained within its leaves, roots, and flowers is a myriad of medicinal actions: diuretic, diaphoretic, cholagogue, alterative, astringent, antimicrobial, analgesic, immunostimulant, and nutritive, just to name a few.
Dandelion’s Long Use in Medicine
A native of Eurasia, dandelion’s use as medicine dates back thousands of years. It was introduced into North America by the earliest of European settlers, who revered dandelion as a “cure-all” tonic that could be propagated quickly and easily to help heal and prevent virtually everything from scurvy to cancer. Not long after its introduction into the New World, knowledge of dandelion’s healing attributes spread throughout many of the Native American nations, and soon the persistent yellow flowers were blooming from coast to coast.
Dandelion became known by physicians as “the official remedy for disorders,” and was incorporated into the U.S. Pharmacopoeia as a broad spectrum tonic and diuretic medicine in 1831. There it remained as an important part of the American pharmacy for nearly 100 years – but eventually, like so many other medicinal plants, dandelion’s mainstream spotlight began to dim with the birth of allopathic “miracle drugs.” Dandelion the wonder herb soon became just another darned weed.
Although it’s largely lost to conventional Western medicine, dandelion remains popular in herbal preparations throughout the world, especially in Europe and Asia. Despite the fact that it’s more versatile than many trendy herbs, dandelion remains relatively obscure in the modern marketplace, perhaps by virtue of its weedy abundance.
Instead of embracing dandelion as a healing ally, society’s collective awareness remains centered on a futile urge to eradicate it, and today dandelion’s greatest contribution to the American economy remains in the sale of herbicide intended to kill it. It’s not being marketed as an “herbal sensation” – after all, why would an herb company spend an advertising fortune to promote a plant that grows from cracks in the sidewalk? Regardless of market appeal, dandelion is one of the first herbs to consider when choosing remedies for your herb cabinet, especially if you intend to gather and process your own medicines.
Dandelion as a Nutritive
To begin an accurate assessment of dandelion’s deep-reaching medicinal attributes, we must first put healing into a whole body perspective.
All higher organisms maintain vital body functions within tightly knit parameters of systemic cooperation. A precise and balanced relationship between nutrition and elimination of waste is a critical part of this cooperation, and if a systemic excess or deficiency occurs that the body cannot correct through elimination, supplementation, or immune system intervention, it will try to compensate by shutting down a system or storing waste materials wherever it can. In other words, a state of “dis-ease” results.
Enter dandelion, one of the most complete plant foods on earth. A one cup serving of fresh dandelion greens will provide as much as 2000 IUs of vitamin A (1½ times the RDA for an adult human); 20 percent protein (double of what spinach provides); vitamins C, K, D, and B-complex; iron; manganese; phosphorus; and many other trace minerals. It’s also a rich source of potassium, which I’ll discuss more below.
All of these vital nutrients are conveniently contained within a single source, in quantities that the body can fully absorb. This means that dandelion will gently supplement the diet without overworking the liver and kidneys with excess vitamins and minerals (this is often signified by dark urine), a problem that sometimes occurs with the use of high-dose vitamin supplements.
Dandelion as a Bitter Tonic
Dandelion leaves also possess what herbalists call a “bitter tonic” principle. Bitter tonics have been well-known for centuries in Europe and Asia, where dandelion and other bitter greens are commonly consumed before a meal to stimulate the secretion of digestive juices (this is how the dinner salad was born). The idea is to “warm up” digestive metabolism before we ask the digestive system to go to work. When a small amount of a bitter herb is taken into the mouth, a sudden increase of salivation occurs. Meanwhile, as the bitter herb reaches the stomach, bile and other digestive agents are triggered into production. This results in less indigestion, better absorption of nutrients, and increased appetite.
The bitter principle is no secret to animals. If you have an opportunity to watch a deer as it begins its day of feeding, you will likely see it nibble at a few bitter plants before turning to the forage it prefers. Even many domesticated dogs and cats nibble bitters when afforded the opportunity.
Bitters are particularly useful in animals who have a chronic problem with indigestion. If your companion has frequent gas and/or passes food that does not appear digested, get him to chew a fresh dandelion leaf, or apply a few drops of dandelion tincture (the type made with glycerin are most palatable) onto his tongue.
Dandelion as a Diuretic
Dandelion is a safe but powerful diuretic and liver stimulant. Diuretics promote urine elimination; normal urination is critical to health. The efficiency of diuresis (the elimination of excess water and systemic waste) can mean the difference between life and death. Congestive heart failure, pulmonary edema, arthritis, gall bladder disease, kidney stone – these are all imbalances resulting from the body’s inability to eliminate water and/or accumulated excesses.
In conventional veterinary practices, drugs such as furosemide (widely known under the brand name “Lasix”) are often used to pull excess fluid from the body and thus promote the elimination of accumulated waste materials. Pharmaceutical diuretics are fast-acting, easy to administer, and very effective, but they tend not to discriminate between what the body needs to keep and what it needs to lose. As a result of pharmaceutical diuretic therapy, the body often loses too much potassium – a crucial heart and brain chemical – through the urinary tract. In this event, potassium must be supplemented throughout the therapy.
Dandelion leaf, in contrast, contains its own rich source of fully assimilable potassium, which helps to replace what would otherwise be lost through urination.
Many contemporary herbalists (including medical researchers, physicians, and veterinarians) claim that when used as a strong tea, dandelion may be as effective as furosemide. And, unlike many other herbal diuretics that work largely by acid-induced kidney irritation, dandelion is very gentle and soothing to the kidneys.
The tradeoff is ease of administration and the time it may take for dandelion to start working. While furosemide can be administered in a little pill, a dandelion therapy involves getting your dog to drink warm tea or take a tincture extract (again, the aforementioned broth method works nicely).
NOTE: If your dog receives conventional pharmaceutical diuretic therapy, see a holistic veterinarian before seeking the dandelion alternative. But on the other hand, there’s no reason why your animal can’t benefit from dandelion’s replacement of potassium while eating it on his meals.
Dandelion is a Liver Tonic, Too
While dandelion’s leaves are very nutritive and diuretic, the root possesses its own usefulness as a safe, reliable liver tonic. The liver is the primary filtering organ of the body, responsible for removing toxins and excesses from the blood for elimination via the kidneys.
The liver also plays critical roles in digestion through its production of bile, bilirubin, and various enzymes. If bile ducts in the liver or gall bladder become congested, blocked, or otherwise diseased to the point of dysfunction, the body will invariably suffer one or more toxicity-related imbalances. Such imbalances may be characterized by symptoms such as jaundice, rheumatoid conditions, eczema, dandruff, or chronic constipation. And while dandelion leaf tea or tincture may help relieve the symptoms of such conditions through a nutritive/diuretic action, the root will work closer to the underlying causes.
Dandelion root has a proven ability to stimulate bile production and circulation throughout the liver. In one study involving dogs (bear in mind that I strongly oppose animal testing), researchers observed a three to four times increase in bile production after administration of dandelion root.
The gallbladder (which stores bile from the liver) is also stimulated, causing this small, hollow organ to contract and release bile into the digestive tract, thus aiding in digestion and acting as a gentle laxative to promote the elimination of solid waste. And in clinical studies using an over-the-counter preparation of the root, dandelion was shown to be effective in treating inflammatory diseases of the liver and gallbladder, including gallstones.
(But please remember: Most of these conditions are preventable, and improper diet is often the underlying cause. Although dandelion has been used successfully in the treatment of liver disease, it is best used at the onset of such conditions; and when adjustments to diet, environment, and the reduction of introduced toxins remains the primary course of therapeutic action. If your animal is in an advanced stage of liver or kidney disease, see your holistic veterinarian for guidance.)
Dandelion for Diabetes
The autumn-harvested root of dandelion is known to contain up to 40 percent inulin, a concentrated dietary fiber that is comprised chiefly of the carbohydrate (sugar) fructose. Inulin is easily assimilated by diabetics, and there is ample evidence to suggest it possesses insulin-like properties that may serve, at least to a limited degree, as an insulin substitute in insulin-dependent diabetic people and their animals.
Additionally, the fructose likely helps to maintain blood sugar levels, while the liver stimulating/diuretic actions of the root improves kidney function and the assimilation of needed nutrients. Many herbalists also believe that dandelion root strengthens pancreatic function; an action that may prove very beneficial in the maintenance of diabetic animals.
More Ways to Use Dandelion
Although not as powerful as goldenseal, dandelion does possess mild infection-fighting qualities and can be used as a gentle, soothing astringent/disinfectant wash. Unlike goldenseal, dandelion isn’t being wiped out in the wild by market demands. A weak decoction (a simmered tea) of dandelion leaves can be diluted in sterile saline (available in the eye care portion of your drugstore) and used as soothing eyewash for conjunctivitis and general eye irritations. Use ¼ teaspoon of the decoction diluted in one ounce of saline; a few drops in the eyes daily should bring relief. The solution will only keep for a few days, so mix it up sparingly.
The roots also have mild immunostimulant qualities – certainly not that of echinacea, but useful as the slight push to the immune system nonetheless. What dandelion lacks in the auto-immune department it makes up for in the form of powerful nutritive qualities. A well-fed body stands strong against infection.
The flowers of dandelion are known by herbalists to be high in lecithin and to have weak but useful analgesic qualities as well.
Identifying and Gathering Dandelion
Dandelion is frequently confused – even by experienced herbalists – with several other species of the sunflower family. And although we may hate to admit it, many of us have been fooled into using one of the look-alikes. The primary consideration to bear in mind when identifying Taraxacum officinale or any of its hundreds of variations is this: Dandelion has no branching characteristics, but instead grows in a rosette fashion, directly off of its taproot. And dandelion never has spines on its midrib, as does Lactuca serriola (“Prickly Lettuce”), which otherwise looks very similar when young. Although dandelion’s impostors likely won’t harm you, they won’t offer you dandelion’s benefits, either.
Gather dandelion greens in early spring for use in salads; they get bitter with age. Leaves intended for herbal teas and medicines can be gathered anytime, provided it is done in dry weather. Wet dandelions tend to develop mold while they are drying, so don’t wash them after picking! Shake them off and dry them on newspapers in a well-ventilated area, away from light. Then stir them often to prevent molding and store them in Zip-Loc bags only after they are completely, crispy dry. Gather the roots as late in fall as possible; this is when they contain the greatest concentration of beneficial constituents. Chop them up (I use a food processor), then spread them onto newspaper and dry with the same consideration you gave to the leaves.
If you wish to propagate dandelion (no, I’m not insane!), give them deep humus-rich soil, full sun, and be moderate with the water if you intend to use them for medicinal purposes. If table fare is your goal, give them lots of water and at least partial shade; this will produce larger, less bitter, tender leaves (but small roots). And you need not be a “closet” dandelion grower; organically farmed dandelion greens are showing up in health food markets and on gourmet menus everywhere. And they often sell for $3 or more per pound!
How to Use Dandelion
The first and foremost consideration in using dandelion as food or medicine is the cleanliness of the plants. Always make sure that the greens you feed have never been sprayed with herbicide. If they have, don’t try washing them; move on to another patch – you won’t have trouble finding more!
Aside from locating a clean source, supplementing your dog’s diet with dandelion is as simple as crumbling the dried greens onto his food. If that doesn’t work, or if you need to get nutrients into your animal more quickly, try making a leaf tea using organic, unsalted vegetable or meat broth in place of plain water. Plan on feeding your dog about a teaspoon of the dried herb for each 20 pounds of his body weight each day. If your companion is sensitive to changes in diet, then start him off with a little at a time.
When feeding dandelions to your dog, don’t forget yourself; dried dandelion greens can be used in place of parsley flakes, and the young fresh greens add a delicious bitter contrast to tossed salads. Try them with lemon.
A Safe Holistic Starting Point
Dandelion is “generally regarded as safe” by the FDA, and aside from any plant allergies, no toxicity or contraindications have been noted relative to its reasonable use.
All of what dandelion offers us plays directly into the entire scheme of what herbal medicines do best. Dandelion does not override the body’s functions, it gently assists them. When we use dandelion, we are not approaching the issues of nutrition and healing from a symptomatic approach (such as when we use dandruff shampoo for a symptom of liver dysfunction); we are addressing the whole body and what it needs to effectively heal itself. In short, dandelion is a very good whole body tonic.
In holistic healing, the first and foremost goal is to reestablish a state of harmonious balance within the body. To do this, everything must function as smoothly as possible. If the body is preoccupied with its duties to a congested liver, overworked kidneys, and a clogged, inefficient digestive tract, it cannot delegate enough healing energy elsewhere. Dandelion can help balance the body’s attention to these tasks. This plant is a persistent and forgiving ally that remains everywhere for us and our animal companions, just waiting to re-emerge as the guardian angel it truly is, despite everything we throw at it.
Greg Tilford serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals.
– All dogs on boats need a flotation device for safety.
– When spending time at a beach, river, or lake shore, keep a life jacket on water-phobic dogs, dogs who don’t swim well, and dogs who swim to the point of exhaustion.
– Make sure that any PFD you buy has flotation material under the dog’s chin, and fastens around and across his chest.
When someone first mentioned doggie life jackets to me, I’ll admit, I giggled. Dogs can swim just fine, for goodness sake.
But then I started thinking about it. Actually, I’ve known some awful canine swimmers. F.B., my sister’s Hound-mix, was one of those dogs. When I was a teenager, I used to take F.B. and my dog (F.B.’s son) to the Yuba River. She liked going with us, and she waded in willingly, but we had to swim alongside her and push and pull her across the river, or she’d bob in place, kind of like a cork. She wouldn’t sink, exactly, but she never quite figured out how to go anywhere, either.
Then there was Bhakti, a genial Lab-mix belonging to a friend. No matter how much he swam, Bhakti looked like he was trying to climb out of the water. He kept his eyes squinted almost shut as a defense from the splashing his front paws made.
A life jacket, or “personal flotation device” (PFD) as the products are more accurately described today, would have undoubtedly helped F.B. and Bhakti. But poor swimmers are a rarity in the canine world. There are far more great swimmers who should be wearing lifejackets, too.
Any dog who accompanies humans on a water craft would benefit from a canine PFD. Dogs on sail boats, fishing boats, ski or race boats, and even canoes and whitewater rafts absolutely should have a life jacket on, for the same reason that even people who know how to swim should be wearing one – namely, that the conditions that caused the dog (or person) to fall into the water may also impair his swimming ability, or prevent his boating companions from getting him out of the water.
Accidents happen! And when a boat turns over, a dog can get hit on the head, injured by the boat, swept downstream, or knocked into rocks. If he’s wearing a life jacket, he’ll be kept floating long enough for someone to rescue him, even if he lost consciousness or the ability to swim.
Also, in the case of serious water accidents, any able person will surely be preoccupied with first rescuing the other human victims. A canine PFD gives a dog his best chance of surviving any maritime disaster.
Quality Life Jackets for Dogs
We rounded up every PFD for dogs we could find, including one that it was painful to spend money on, given its obvious inadequacies. We selected jackets in the “medium” size range, intending to use the same two 55-pound dogs to test each product. (Note:Tiny dogs – a group that might have greatest need of help in the water – are terrifically underserved by this product category.)
Our test dogs for this venture weigh the same amount, but are built quite differently. Paws, a Yellow Lab, is tall and lean, but with a deep chest. Jessie, a “shelter-mix,” is short and stocky, with a shorter body than Paws.
We were looking for products that were easy to put on even wet, wiggly dogs, and quick and easy to adjust for a secure fit. As the dogs walked around in the jackets, we also began to appreciate the designs that permitted easy and free movement, and were comfortable for the dogs whether they were swimming, running, sitting, or lying down.
As is often the case when buying specialty products, we were not terribly concerned about the price of the jackets. We figure, if a person needs one for her dog, she needs a good one, and will be willing to pay for a product that works long and well.
We tested each jacket on two dogs, necessitating several adjustments to fit. Paws was the only swim-tester, but he did his job thoroughly, jumping into a lake and swimming extensively with each jacket. All of the products but one helped hold him higher in the water than he was when swimming naked. He quickly learned that he could just relax and float in place when wearing a PFD!
PFD Review Results
RuffWear’s K-9 Float Coat was one of our top two selections. An exceedingly well-made product, it was also easy to put on the dogs quickly, and easy to adjust. A three-inch by two-inch tab of Velcro on the buoyant chest strap holds the jacket in place while you clip the plastic buckles together – one across the dog’s front and two around the girth.
At first, we were concerned for the dogs’ comfort when lying down, since the plastic buckles on the girth straps fasten underneath the dog. However, the flaps that go under the dog are padded, so even if he’s lying on a lumpy buckle, it shouldn’t bother him; it didn’t seem to bother our dogs.
All the lifejackets we tested had handles on the back for lifting the dog out of the water if need be. The handle on the K-9 Float Coat was easy to grab and lift the dog with, and positioned far enough forward that when we lifted the dog out of the water, he didn’t tip nose-down. A plastic d-ring is sewn under the handle for attaching a dog’s leash.
The handle on our other top selection, Outward Hound’s Pet Saver Lifejacket, is positioned slightly too far back on the coat. When you lift the dog out of the water, his nose tips downward and, if he’s anything like our test Lab, he’ll start to struggle. The leash d-ring on this coat is easier to clip a leash onto, however.
As with all our recommended PFDs, the chest strap on the Pet Saver is filled with buoyant material, to help keep the dog’s chin out of the water. This strap also has Velcro and buckle fasteners on the chest strap.
The section of the jacket that wraps underneath the dog also has a wide swath of Velcro, which not only helps keep the coat in place while you are adjusting the straps, but also helps keep the coat fitting snugly while the dog is in the water. One of our “not recommended” products had a similar design but lacked the Velcro, making the coat float off the dog in the water.
A final nice touch: two thin strips of reflective material along the back of the coat would make it much easier to find the dog if you were conducting a night rescue.
We found this jacket in numerous retail and online pet supply stores, for a very low price in some places ($10 – $20 at www.petguys.com).
Second-Best
As its name suggests, Northwest River Supplies specializes in river rafting and kayaking equipment, so we had high hopes for its “CFD” (canine flotation device). Some of its features were clearly inspired by human PFD technology. The coat had a handy zippered pocket on the back, large enough to hold a dog’s leash or some other small amount of supplies. Reflective tape on the straps would assist rescuers at night. And each of the plastic buckles has a “keeper” strap sewn in such a way as to prevent accidental release of the buckles.
Unfortunately, that keeper strap also makes it somewhat difficult to unfasten the buckles when you want to. On a person’s PFD, this might be a great safety feature; on the dog’s jacket, it makes things harder.
We found the handle to be a bit small, and harder to grasp when lifting the dog out of the water. Also, this jacket has no buoyancy material under the dog at all; only the straps pass underneath. Our test dogs seemed to appreciate the fact that this jacket was easier to walk, sit, and lie down in, but it doesn’t seem to provide quite as much flotation as our top picks.
On the plus side, the leash ring is quite large and easy to clip onto. Also, NRS includes a figure for the amount of flotation that is provided by each size of its jacket, something that we don’t quite get, but expect experienced boaters to appreciate.
It’s clear that a lot of thought went into creating the Fido Float, and its designers chose to do pretty much everything different from other products in this category. We appreciated some of its innovations, but had other nits to pick.
The good news: This jacket provides lots of under-the-neck flotation, without interfering with the dog’s movement on land or in the water. Also, the part that goes under the dog is a strong net-like material, so the dog can lie down comfortably, without pads underneath him. Handles are positioned at the dog’s nape and near his tail, for easy removal from the water.
What we didn’t like: Having to put the dog’s paws through the jacket’s armholes, and then zip it up the dog’s back. It was much harder to get the dogs to cooperate with this design. Once on, however, it was easy to adjust the fit. Speaking of fit, these jackets are all very long. This would be problematic for short-bodied dogs.
Not Recommended
Lotus Designs is another maker of whitewater rafting equipment, but its handsome Critter PFD was a disappointment. An elastic loop is supposed to hold the jacket’s belly band in place, but this came loose within moments of swimming. Thanks to the straps, the jacket stayed on, but with the belly band floating alongside the dog – not how it’s meant to work.
The Fido Pet Safety Vest is altogether mystifying. A minimal design provides almost no flotation, none under the dog’s chin, and not even a single strap across the front of the dog’s chest to keep it in place. Since the hind ends of dogs naturally sink lower in the water than their front ends, the vest stayed in place in the water . . . but slipped toward the dog’s rear end every time he got out of the water and walked around. In other words, a waste of money, with no safety to offer.
1. Make a reasonable assessment of your dog’s level of predatory behavior, and manage his environment accordingly.
2. Diligently practice training exercises that will specifically address the chase behavior challenges that your dog is likely to present to you. Provide him with appropriate outlets for his predatory/chase behaviors.
3. Don’t ever allow him to be placed in a situation where his predatory instincts can threaten the life of another human, especially a child. You risk his life, too, if you do.
Tiffany approached me shortly before the start of her weekly training class recently, clearly distraught. “Newton did something very bad this week,” she said.
My heart skipped a beat as I glanced down at Newton, the black and white Border Collie/Basset mix sitting calmly by her side. In my dog trainer brain, “very bad” usually equates with serious aggression to humans. Newton and his vivacious, committed owner are two of my favorite clients, and I didn’t want to hear that Newton had done something irredeemable.
“What did he do?” I asked.
“He chased and killed a bunny in my backyard!” Tiffany wailed. “My roommates and I were so upset. He dropped it immediately when I told him to, but it was too late, the bunny was dead!”
I breathed a silent sigh of relief, and reassured her that while I understood her distress, Newton’s behavior was natural and normal. Bassets were bred to chase rabbits, after all, and Border Collies were bred to chase things that move. More often than not when our dogs chase small beings like squirrels and rabbits, the little critters manage to escape. This poor bunny wasn’t so lucky, and Newton just did what dogs do.
Canine Predatory Instinct: Is It Aggression?
Our dogs’ predatory instincts are one of the things that makes them fun to play with. When you throw a ball or a stick and he chases it, you are triggering his natural predatory desire to chase things that move. In fact, some behaviorists argue that predatory behavior should not be called aggression at all – that it is more appropriately interpreted as a form of food-getting behavior.
Indeed, the motivation to chase prey objects is vastly different from other forms of aggression, which are based on competition for resources and/or self-protection. It is distinguished from other forms of aggression by a marked absence of “affective arousal” (anger), and is a social survival behavior, not a social conflict behavior. Predatory behavior is indicated by distinct behaviors: hunting (sniffing, tracking, searching, scanning, or waiting for prey); stalking; the attack sequence (chase, pounce/catch, shaking kill, choking kill); and post-kill consuming. The underlying motivation for chasing things that move is to eat them.
Dogs who challenge, bark, snarl, and chase skateboarders or joggers who pass the house are generally believed to be engaging in territorial aggression – individual predators don’t usually openly advertise their intent by making lots of noise (although anyone who has ever followed a pack of baying hounds knows that group hunting can be quite noisy!). Dogs who hide in ditches or behind bushes and silently launch their attack on unsuspecting passers-by are exhibiting more classic predator behavior. However, the frustration of restraint on a chain or behind a fence combined with constant exposure to the trigger of rapidly moving prey objects can push a dog from predatory behavior to real aggression. Both behaviors, of course, are dangerous.
Just because predatory behavior is natural doesn’t mean that it’s acceptable in its inappropriate manifestations. It was not acceptable to Tiffany and her roommates for Newton to chase and kill a bunny, and it certainly wasn’t acceptable to the rabbit. Predatory behavior has been responsible for the death of many unfortunate pet cats, rabbits, chickens, sheep, goats, and other livestock, and even humans. While it often can be expressed in harmless, even useful outlets such as games of fetch, retrieving ducks, and herding sheep, chase behavior can be dangerous to dog and prey alike. It is our responsibility, as caretakers for our canine companions, to be sure their natural predatory instincts don’t get them into trouble.
It’s in the Genes
It should come as no surprise that some breeds seem to have a much stronger predatory instinct than others. Dogs who were purposely bred over the centuries to chase and kill small animals are much more likely candidates for strong chase behavior than those with enhanced genes for lap-sitting. While there are exceptions in every breed and group, and any individual dog from Chihuahuas to Newfoundlands can display predatory behavior – or not; in general the following dogs are exceptionally likely to display strong predatory behavior:
■ Herding breeds (such as Border Collies, Kelpies, Australian Shepherds, Cattle Dogs, etc.)
Interestingly, because of the specialized purposes for which these dogs have been bred, many of these breeds will display parts of the predatory sequence of behaviors more strongly than others. The herding breeds have a strong stalk and chase behavior, but the kill-and-consume part of the sequence has been greatly inhibited. Sporting breeds are strong on sniffing, scanning, watching, and grabbing, but again, have been bred not to actually destroy the prey – they are supposed to gently bring it back.
The hounds are split into two groups. The scent hounds are built low to the ground, with long ears to catch scent particles. These dogs are very big on the sniffing and chasing aspects of the sequence. They may sometimes actually catch and kill, but it’s not their primary purpose. The sight hounds, on the other hand, are long-legged to enhance their ability to scan – to look for prey rather than finding it by smell – and to run after it, fast, when they see it.
Terriers have had the grab-and-kill part of the predatory sequence genetically enhanced, giving them a well-deserved reputation for a pugnacious personality. Their owners didn’t just want them to find the rats in the barn; they really wanted the dogs to kill the rats. Or, historically, in the sad case of the Pit Bull Terrier, people wanted the fighting Terriers to kill any opposing dog.
The Northern breeds have been the least genetically manipulated, which is why, in part, they most closely resemble their wolf ancestors. Thus they, and the unfortunate Wolf hybrid, are most likely to display the complete predatory sequence.
Manage Your Predator
As with so many other undesirable dog behaviors, if your dog has a strong prey drive, your first line of defense is management. Make sure you have a secure fence from which your dog cannot escape. Don’t leave him in the yard unattended if he will be constantly tantalized by lots of fast-moving prey objects, such as squirrels, deer, skateboarders, small children running and playing.
Use leashes and long lines to prevent your dog from taking off after deer, rabbits, and squirrels when you are on walks and hikes. Especially keep him on leash at dawn and dusk, when the deer and the antelope – and other small, wild things – are most likely to play. Look for ways to minimize his visual and physical access to prey in his own yard – a solid fence will prevent him from seeing things moving quickly by, and will prevent many potential prey animals (including small children) from entering easily. A non-visible underground electronic fence will not. Nor will a non-visible fence necessarily prevent him from leaving the yard if he is highly motivated to chase prey.
A muzzle can also be useful on a limited basis. Since muzzles restrict a dog’s ability to drink water and pant normally, you cannot leave one on your dog while you are away all day at work. But if he’s devastating the squirrel population in your backyard, or you want to give a litter of baby bunnies a chance to grow up and get wiser and faster, you can put a muzzle on him for brief fresh air/potty trips to the yard. Be sure to take time to desensitize him to wearing a muzzle first, by associating it with yummy treats while you put it on him for gradually longer periods of time.
Training for Instinct
You will never train most herding dogs not to chase things that move, given the chance. Similarly, you’d be hard pressed to convince many terriers not to go after rats and other small creatures when the opportunity arises. Their brains are hardwired to chase, and you can’t change that.
A slightly less imposing goal is to change the predatory response into an incompatible behavior response. For example, you could teach your Border Collie that the appearance of a deer is the cue to lie down. She can’t “down” and “chase the deer” at the same time. Or, as we taught our own Scottie, the appearance of your kitten could be the cue for your dog to sit at your feet. This type of training can be difficult because the dogs are so highly motivated to chase – it is quite a challenge to convince them that they’d rather do something else. You must find something highly rewarding in order to make it work. For our Scottie, it was food. For a Border Collie, it might be the opportunity to chase a tennis ball – after she lies down – instead of the deer.
This approach works best in your presence, and only if you practice it regularly rather than just expecting it to work in the heat of the moment. Although we are quite comfortable leaving our now-grown kitten alone with Dubhy, it was several months and several pounds worth of kitten-growth before we stopped shutting her in her own room when we weren’t there to supervise. You might not ever be able to expect that your Border Collie will leave the deer (or the skateboarders) alone if she is outside, unrestrained, and left to her own devices.
A solid foundation of good manners training can also be helpful, combined with vigilance on your part. If you are out hiking with Bess and see the deer before she does, you can call her to you and snap the leash on. Even if she sees it first, a really reliable recall will bring her back to your side, especially if you call her pre-launch, before she is headed hell-bent-for-leather after the fleeing deer.
A well-trained emergency “Down!” can also save the day, even if your dog is in full stride. Many dogs will “Down!” even when they won’t “Come!” because they can still watch the prey. Stopping the charge gives the dog’s arousal level and adrenaline time to recede, and you may be able to call her back from the “down” or calmly walk up to her and snap her leash on her collar.
Dangers of Thwarting
Dogs who have strong, hardwired behaviors are usually happiest if they are allowed to engage in those behaviors in some form. Greyhounds chase mechanical rabbits on the track – and while we abhor the abuse that is rampant in the Greyhound industry, there is no question that the dogs love to run and chase. Jack Russell Terriers are in heaven when they get to play in Earthdog trials. Our Australian Kelpie, Katie, gets a huge charge out of running circles around our horses in the pasture, even though they are impervious to her attempts to direct their movement.
In fact, if hardwired behaviors are constantly thwarted (prevented from occurring), you risk having your dog develop compulsive disorders. A canine compulsive disorder (CCD) is a normal coping behavior that becomes exaggerated to the degree that it is harmful to the dog. Some common examples are excessive licking, spinning, and tail-chasing. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to CCD, but it usually takes an environmental trigger – stress – to cause the behavior to erupt. The breeds known to have a high prey drive (see sidebar, “It’s in the Genes”) are often the most susceptible to developing stereotypical spinning behavior when kept in high-stress kennel environments.
If you are the owner of a dog with strong predatory inclinations, it behooves you both to find an outlet for the behavior rather than simply trying to shut it off. Encourage your dog to chase and fetch balls, sticks, and toys, and take the time to engage in several fetch sessions with him per day.
Use these strong reinforcers to incorporate training in your play sessions and strengthen your dog’s good manners. If your dog rudely jumps up and tries to grab the Frisbee from your hand, whisk it behind your back until he sits, then bring it out again, and only throw it if he remains sitting until you throw. You are using two of the four principles of operant conditioning here. The dog’s behavior – jumping up – makes the Frisbee go away, which is “negative punishment” – the dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away. When he sits and stays sitting, you throw the Frisbee. This is “positive reinforcement” – the dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen. Works like a charm.
If you have a Terrier, provide an outlet for his prey-seeking behavior by creating a digging spot – a box filled with soft soil or an area you have dug up where he is allowed to dig. Bury his favorite toys and encourage him to “Find it!” Toys that squeak and wiggle are especially suited to Terrier games.
Come Chase with Me!
One of the most useful applications of chase behavior is in conjunction with teaching your dog to come when called. Lots of dog owners make the mistake of moving toward their dogs – or even chasing after them – when they won’t come. In dog language, a direct frontal approach is assertive, even aggressive, and dogs naturally move away from it.
It’s much more effective to do the exact opposite – run away from your dog! Start playing chase/recall games when your dog is a pup. Get excited, call your pup, and run a short distance away. Let him catch up to you while you are still facing away from him, then turn sideways, kneel down (don’t bend over him), praise him, feed him a treat or play with a tug or fetch toy, and pet him (if he enjoys being petted; not all dogs do). If your dog is no longer a pup, you can still play this game to strengthen his response to the Come! cue.
Teach your dog from early on that “Come!” means “Chase me and play,” keep up the games as he matures, manage him so he doesn’t get to practice inappropriate predatory behavior, and find acceptable outlets for his natural chase behaviors. Using these tactics, you’ll have a much better chance of getting those incompatible behaviors later on when you are faced with the challenge of competition from real prey.
What About the Baby?
One of the very real concerns I hear expressed from new or soon-to-be parents is that of the family dog’s predatory behavior being elicited by the baby. There is some evidence to support the belief that at least some dogs may view an infant more as a prey object than as a little human. New babies move strangely, and make funny noises that can resemble prey distress sounds.
The Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta, Georgia, published figures from the 25 dog bite-related fatalities in the two-year period from 1995 through 1996. Of those 25 deaths, 20 of the victims were children (80 percent). Three of the children were less than 30 days old, one was under five months, and 10 were from one to four years old. The remaining six child victims were under 11 years old.
It is likely that the three neonates and perhaps the five-month- old baby were victims of prey-related behavior, while the others were at least as likely to have somehow elicited a true social conflict/aggression attack.
I strongly recommend that all parents-to-be, but especially owners of dogs with strong predatory behavior who plan to bring an infant into the home, work with a trainer/behaviorist to desensitize the dog to the sights and sounds of a baby, and to create a good training and management plan to ensure that Fido and Junior will be comfortable with each other.
There are CDs and audio tapes of baby noises available to help with this process, which can be used to teach the dog that a baby’s cries are the cue to lie down on his bed – or do a Lassie trick and go get Mom or Dad.
It goes without saying that dogs should never be left alone with infants and young children, but that warning goes triple for dogs who have demonstrated any propensity toward predatory behavior. A family dog mauling or killing a child is a horrible tragedy that just doesn’t have to happen.
Note: “Sound Sensibilities: Babies CD” is an excellent desensitization resource created by dog trainer Terry Ryan.
by CJ Puotinen The foundation of nearly every home-prepared diet for dogs is animal-source protein, such as beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, dairy products, or eggs. These foods are so abundant in our supermarkets that we take them for granted and assume they are nutritious. After all, our scientists, public health officials, and medical experts make no distinction between food produced by animals raised outdoors on open pasture and that of animals raised in confinement on factory farms.
But you are what you eat, as the saying goes, and the difference between the meat of factory-raised animals and animals that dine on open pasture is dramatic. Many holistic veterinary health practitioners routinely recommend that their patients eat animal origin products only if they are organic and pasture-fed or free-range. Problems with factory-farmed Almost 90 percent of America’s farm animals live on factory farms, where, instead of green grass, they eat packaged foods that may contain ingredients they were never designed to consume, such as corn and soybeans – or, for roughage in the mixed feed, ground-up phone books, plastic pot scrubbers, or stale-dated chewing gum, complete with wrappers. Overcrowding, a lack of sunlight and fresh air, the routine application of drugs and pesticides, inactivity, and stress weaken their immune systems, make them susceptible to infections and chronic illnesses, soften their bones, and reduce the quality of their meat and eggs. Feedlot cattle are routinely treated with dewormers like Dectomax, Ivermectin, and other systemic pesticides, which are supposed to leave the animals after six months but residues of which can remain in their fat for much longer. Additional toxins migrate to fat cells, while others, such as heavy metals, collect in the bones. Of all the cows that are culled and taken to slaughter, only five percent (1 in 20) have livers that can be salvaged, for the high protein levels of soy-based feed damage the bovine liver. Virtually all animals raised in confinement are given antibiotics to keep them alive and encourage weight gain, hormones to regulate their growth and reproductive cycles, seven-way combination vaccines, and steroids to stimulate growth. Drug residues concern health experts because they encourage the development of drug-resistant bacteria and can adversely affect human health. Athletes who consumed factory-farmed chicken have failed urine tests for steroid drugs, and medical journals have documented the adverse effects of hormone-treated chicken on children. “Confinement operations could not make a profit if their animals were subject to strict health standards,” says Sally Fallon, director of the Weston A. Price Foundation, an organization that advocates a return to nontoxic farming methods and the consumption of whole foods. “Cows with mastitis are milked anyway. Poultry inspectors used to condemn all birds with air sacculitus, a disease that causes yellow fluids and mucus to break up into the lungs. Today, many of these birds are approved.” Factory-farmed hens suffer from “caged layer fatigue,” a form of osteoporosis caused by a lack of fresh air and sunshine combined with the mineral-depleting demands of constant egg laying. Despite being fed calcium supplements, bone fractures and paralysis are common. Forced molting, in which hens are deprived of food and water to shock them into starting a new egg-laying cycle, is banned in Great Britain but common in North America. Broiler hens are fed growth hormones, antibiotics, and animal byproducts, including condemned and diseased parts. Animal health advocate Michael W. Fox, DVM, warns that intensive confinement systems produce food-borne diseases that ultimately affect humans and benefit only the pharmaceutical and medical industries. Chickens and turkeys can be sold as “free-range” if they have USDA-certified access to the outdoors for five minutes per day. But the term “range,” a synonym for pasture, has lost its meaning, as there are no criteria for the outdoor area’s size, environmental quality, or space allowed per bird. All too often, factory-farmed free-range birds live in crowded conditions on gravel or concrete with no access to grass of any kind and little, if any, access to the outdoors. These birds are debeaked (a procedure that impairs their ability to preen and eat normally) and live in unnatural social isolation rather than in family groups. Cancer is so common that commercially raised animals are accepted for human consumption after their tumors are removed. Fewer inspectors and faster assembly lines make even the most cursory inspections difficult or impossible. Many supermarket chickens are infected with salmonella, and beef is frequently recalled because of E. coli contamination. Federal officials respond to these problems by allowing drug manufacturers to supervise the testing of their own animal drugs in order to complete the approval process as quickly as possible, raising questions about safety and effectiveness. To treat salmonella, E. coli, and other pathogens in meat products, they recommend formaldehyde rinses, chlorine rinses, and irradiation. These treatments apply to meat and poultry sold for human consumption, the “best” that modern agriculture has to offer. Fortunately, a revolution is brewing, and it’s one that may remedy the ills of modern food production. Farmers and ranchers are rediscovering the benefits of pasture feeding, and because the animals they grow are significantly healthier than animals raised in confinement, their meat, bones, organs, and eggs are significantly better for people and dogs. Healthful farms Milton Rodewald raises chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese, sheep, pigs, and cattle in upstate New York at Thistle Downes, a fast-growing farm that has been free since 1997 of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, or other agricultural chemicals. As a result of efficient management, the land’s vegetation is rich in vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients, and the farm produces only a fraction of the runoff and erosion that plague conventional farms.
“Some of our customers are people with severe chemical sensitivities,” says Rodewald. “If they eat commercially raised meat or poultry, they get physically ill. Now I’m starting to hear from people whose dogs have the same problem. We’re happy to save extra bones, organs, and chicken feet for them, and occasionally someone buys whole lambs or chickens for their dogs.” Like many producers of pasture-fed animals, Rodewald has mixed feelings about applying for organic certification under new USDA regulations. “That’s partly because of the expense and paperwork,” he says, “but it’s mostly because our methods are so far beyond what the government requires for organic certification that we consider organic and free-range to be misleading labels. I call our methods ‘beyond organic.’ ” Open-door policy Thistle Downes is open to customers, who can pick up orders in person or at farmers’ markets. “I encourage people to visit,” says Rodewald. “Every step of our operation, from the way we improve the soil to the way we constantly move the animals to fresh pasture, maintain their health with natural methods, and process them humanely, is out in the open for all to see.” Unlike ruminants, chickens require grain in addition to pasture for optimum health. Rodewald grinds fresh grain every day, having found that his chickens’ improved health makes the effort cost-effective. “If you raise birds in confinement,” he explains, “with limited access to a crowded outdoor pen, and feed them rancid grain and returned, stale baked goods from a certified organic bakery, no one will question your organic free-range label. But their health and the quality of their meat and eggs will be completely different from that of chickens raised on pasture and freshly ground grain. To the consumer the health benefits are a plus, but it’s the flavor that makes our meat, poultry, and eggs so popular.” If people can taste the difference, imagine pasture-fed meat from our dogs’ perspective. “Grocery store meat gets a brief sniff and mild interest,” says Sarah Wilson-Kilcommons, author of Good Owners, Great Dogs and other books. “But when local hunters drop meat off, my normally well-behaved group loses their collective mind. They try to dive into the bag and they gulp down every tidbit with primal efficiency and enthusiasm. There is definitely something different about ‘real’ meat.” Tennessee rancher Jenny Drake, whose Peaceful Pastures farm ships beef, pork, lamb, goat, chicken, duck, and turkey to customers throughout the country, gives credit for the health of her dogs to their simple diet of raw milk and raw meat. In addition, Drake feeds them organs, which have little commercial value but which are rich in beneficial bacteria, enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients. Drake, like Rodewald, raises chickens in portable grazing pens in open, grassy fields. The pens provide fresh air, room for exercise, and protection from predators in addition to the benefits of fresh pasture. “All of our animals have comfortable, relaxed lives, maintaining their natural social structure,” says Drake. “Their immune systems are strong, and they don’t suffer from the diseases, parasites, lameness, and stress that affect factory-farmed animals.” Like many small farms, Peaceful Pastures processes its own poultry and transports other animals to a nearby processing plant. “We time the loading and departure to make this as stress-free as possible,” says Drake. “Our cattle are never herded into large trucks and shipped long distances, nor do we withhold food and water, which is another common practice.” The down side of pasture-fed meat, poultry, and eggs is that they are more expensive than their factory-farmed counterparts and, when applicable, shipping costs add to the expense. Suzanne Clothier, author of Bones Would Rain from the Sky and other books about dogs, raises Scottish Highland cattle, chickens, turkey, eggs, vegetables, fruit, and hay at her Hawks Hunt Farm in upstate New York. Like many pastured farms, Hawks Hunt participates in a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Subscription Farming program through which customers place orders. “I’d love to feed our dogs nothing but pasture-fed meat,” says Clothier, “but that would require far more animals than we now raise, complete with the expense and effort that would involve, plus a staggering amount of freezer space. “I wish more people understood how meat animals are raised, the economics and scheduling of such, their life cycles, and the limitations small farms have. When customers call to ask for 50 pounds of liver or 100 pounds of chicken necks, they have no idea how many dead cows or chickens that represents. Most people know very little about their own food, never mind their dogs’ food.” Managing the cost To make food for dogs more affordable, some farms have pet specials. In addition to offering Peaceful Pastures “pet coolers,” Jenny Drake notifies customers when she plans to cull an older cow, goat, steer, or sheep, selling the custom-butchered animal at a deep discount. At Sojourner Sheep in Massachusetts, Diane Roeder sells lamb and mutton for pet consumption. “That lowers the price,” she explains, “because the yield is greater.” In Missouri, veterinarian Patricia Whisnant sells meaty bones, organs, and ground beef for dogs. Her American Grassfed Beef Web site provides extensive information on the BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods) diet and offers free shipping on pet food specials. Some farms, such as Simply Grazin’ in New Jersey, schedule free or inexpensive truck deliveries. Staying in touch with farmers and sharing orders with friends has helped many caretakers improve their dogs’ diets.
Real milk The same comparisons that apply to factory-farmed and pasture-fed meat and eggs apply to milk. Raw colostrum from pasture-fed cows and goats, recommended by holistic veterinarians as a potent immune system tonic, and raw cow or goat whey, a cheesemaking byproduct that is easy to digest and rich in beneficial bacteria, are popular extras for those who can find them. So is raw butter, a traditional food that improves health by providing fat-soluble vitamins; short- and medium-chain fatty acids that stimulate the immune system and protect against disease; glycospingolipids, which prevent intestinal distress; and conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which helps protect against cancer and heart disease. Milk from pasture-fed cows contains five times more CLA and twice the omega-3 fatty acids and beta-carotene of milk from cows fed a commercial dairy diet. To find a pasture-fed dairy or goat farm, check the resources listed here as well as farmers’ markets and health food stores. Peaceful Pastures ships a variety of pasture-fed dairy products for pets. Fish facts The problems stemming from factory-farmed animals are not unique to furry and feathered species. Wild-caught fish is the finned equivalent of pasture-fed meat, but most of America’s salmon, trout, halibut, mussels, oysters, and other food fish are farmed in crowded open-net cages set up in the ocean or fresh water. Fish farms often use large quantities of antibiotics and pesticides to control disease, and parasites proliferate. Researchers blame farmed fish for human exposure to antibiotic-resistant bacteria, dioxin, and PCBs, as well as possible retinal damage from the ingestion of color additives. “Farmed fish is nutritionally worthless,” says Sally Fallon, who contrasts its low vitamin and mineral content to that of wild-caught fish. “In addition, fish farms create an ecological nightmare, with escaping fish spreading disease or replacing wild species and raw sewage waste causing serious pollution.” For your fish-loving dog and for your own improved health, look for wild-caught fish and avoid farmed fish. Check with vendors about the source. Unless wild-caught Pacific salmon or farmed fish of any kind has been tested for parasites, it is probably safer cooked than raw. Also With This ArticleClick here to view “Pasture-Fed Animals Provide Healthier Meat and Dairy Products For Your Dog”.”Click here to view “Raw Food Dog Recipes”
There is no evidence that dogs can contract “mad cow disease” from eating food that was made from the rendered remains of an infected cow, say authorities from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA). Nor is there any evidence that people could contract the disease from a dog who ate dry dog food made from infected meat.
These concerns spread like wildfire among dog owners upon hearing the news that the rendered remains of a Canadian cow determined to have bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) ended up in dog food sold in the U.S. Humans cannot contract BSE. However, evidence suggests that a similar human disease, variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease (vCJD), a degenerative, fatal brain disorder first seen in 1994, can be caused by eating beef products contaminated with central nervous system tissue of BSE-infected cattle. There is no evidence that dogs can contract BSE or BSE-like diseases from eating BSE-infected meat products, but some felid species (including domestic and captive wild cats) have been shown to contract BSE-like diseases from eating BSE-infected meat.
BSE was first seen in cattle in 1986. Because of the long incubation period for both BSE and vCJD (up to 10 years) and because BSE appears to have evolved as a mutation from scrapie, an endemic spongiform encephalopathy of sheep and goats, fears that the diseases could be transmitted in as-yet unknown ways and/or to new species cannot be put completely to rest.
Close to home The eight-year-old cow at the center of the recent BSE scare was sick with pneumonia when she was slaughtered on January 31, 2003. A meat inspector from the Alberta Agriculture, Food, and Rural Development (AAFRD) department declared the cow’s carcass unfit for human consumption, and ordered a sample of the cow’s brain tissue to be taken – not because BSE was suspected (it wasn’t); routine surveillance testing for BSE calls for a certain percentage of all slaughtered cattle to be tested. The carcass was diverted to a rendering plant.
It took more than three months before the tissue sample was actually tested for BSE. On May 16, the CFIA was notified of preliminary test results indicating possible BSE; additional tests confirmed the results.
The CFIA immediately launched a two-pronged investigation to determine where the cow came from and where it went.
Looking backward Immediately before she was slaughtered, the BSE-positive cow lived in Alberta. Investigators “depopulated” the cattle in the infected cow’s herd, as well as other herds that the cow had lived with on other ranches. (Only a test of a dead cow’s brain tissue can confirm a case of BSE.) Test results were negative for BSE in all the cattle.
The CFIA also placed 17 additional herds of cattle under quarantine: 11 herds that the infected cow lived with previously, three herds that have contained the infected cow’s offspring, and three herds that have been determined to have been fed the same feed as the infected cow. Two of the quarantined herds are located in Saskatchewan, 12 are in Alberta, and three are in British Columbia. In addition, a goat herd that may have been fed the same feed as the infected cow’s herd has also been quarantined.
Although great strides have been made to trace the BSE-positive cow to her origin, as WDJ goes to press, the mixed-breed cow’s birthplace has not yet been determined. Genetic tests are being conducted to try to determine her origin. Six years ago, Canada instituted an animal identification program that facilitates tracing food animals; this cow pre-dates the system.
None of the quarantined animals have shown any signs of the disease; however, the BSE-positive cow did not exhibit signs of BSE at time of her slaughter, either.)
Following forward The CFIA traced the remains of the infected cow to a manufacturing plant, Champion Pet Food, in Morinville, Alberta. Initial reports from the CFIA stated that the lot of meat and bone meal containing the infected cow’s remains had ended up in chicken feed. This feed is being traced, and cattle that live on farms where the chicken feed was sent have been placed under quarantine.
Later, it was determined that the same lot of meat and bone meal had also been used in two dry dog foods for an American company, Pet Pantry International, of Carson City, Nevada, sometime between February 4, 2003, and March 12, 2003.
Pet Pantry is voluntarily recalling the foods. This action is being described as a precaution to prevent discarded dog food from getting mixed with feed for cattle, goats, or sheep; all ruminants are at risk of contracting BSE if they eat BSE-infected meat products.
Customers who purchased Canine Maintenance Diet with a “use by” date of “17FEB04” or Canine Beef with Barley with a “use by” date of “05MAR04” from Pet Pantry since February should check their supplies. If found, consumers are instructed to call the company at (800) 381-7387. The company’s foods are shipped directly to consumers, and the company is using its sales records to contact consumers.
Ready to switch to grass-fed? The preponderance of evidence thus far suggests that cattle get BSE only by eating feed containing central nervous system tissue from infected cattle, and that most humans get vcJD by eating meat products containing BSE-infected tissues.
These facts alone make grass-fed beef that much more alluring, for both human consumption and for feeding to our dogs. To date, neither BSE nor vCJD have been seen in dogs, but less than 20 years ago, the diseases had not seen in cows or humans, either.
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status hereorcontact customer service.
Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.
Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.
Subscribenow and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!
Dogs cannot contract “mad cow disease” from eating food that was made from the rendered remains of an infected cow, say authorities from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA). Nor are dog owners at risk of contracting the disease from a dog who ate dry dog food made from infected meat.
These concerns spread like wildfire among dog owners upon hearing the news that two varieties of The Pet Pantry’s Canine Dry Food are being recalled by the company. Authorities in the CFIA recently traced rendered products from the Canadian cow discovered to be infected with bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) to The Pet Pantry, located in Carson City, Nevada, whose owners in turn traced the ingredients to specific batches of their products.
The voluntary return of the 1300 affected bags is a precaution to prevent discarded dog food from getting mixed with feed for cattle, goats, or sheep; cud-chewing ruminants ARE at risk of contracting the disease if they eat products that contain infected meat, even in foods that have been rendered. Customers who purchased dog food from The Pet Pantry since February should check their supplies and, if found, should call the company at 1-800-381-7387.
Affected Foods The Pet Pantry’s Canine Maintenance Diet, with a “use by” date of “17FEB04” The Pet Pantry’s Canine Beef with Barley, with a “use by” date of “05MAR04”
A recent visit to the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital at the University of California, Davis, brought this months lead article (“Administer With Care”) home to me. I had made an appointment for my elderly dog Rupert, who is now living with my father in the heart of Californias heartworm country. Ive felt fine about not giving heartworm preventive drugs to Rupe for the past eight years; neither mosquitoes nor infection rates are enough of a concern where I live (in my experience and opinion) to warrant the medications. But in the foothills of the Sierra mountains where my dad lives, heartworms and the mosquitoes that perpetuate their life cycle are epidemic.
Weve published a number of articles on heartworm disease, and Im aware of the benefits and risks of the preventive drugs, as well as some of the alternatives available. However, I have to keep things simple for my dad; the only way Im going to feel confident that Rupert is fully protected from the disease is to obtain a heartworm preventive drug, and then call my dad once a month to tell him to give it to Rupe.
So I had Dad and Rupert meet me at the vet school in Davis, which is about halfway between our homes and the place where Rupert has had more than a few visits for treating and monitoring his cardiac arrythmia. I wanted to talk to a doctor who had the benefit of Rupes entire medical history and who could answer questions about potential problems with Ruperts taking medications for arrythmia and the heartworm preventive concurrently.
I was a little shocked when Rupe got out of my dads car. Hes 13 years old, and hes been getting less and less agile, but he was really quite stiff and lame after his two-hour car ride.
The veterinarian and vet students who examined Rupert were also concerned with his condition. After a thorough physical exam, they concluded that his lameness was due to a combination of arthritis and blown cruciate ligaments in both hind limbs. And they suggested giving Rupert a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug such as Rimadyl if his bloodwork indicated his liver function and blood chemistry was okay.
However, the tests revealed distressing signs indicating renal problems perhaps typical for an old dog, but definitely putting him at higher risk for complications from the medication. And since Im not certain my dad would notice subtle side effects of the medication if they developed, Im loath to try one of the NSAIDs yet.
For now, Im having my dad give Rupe a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement and some vitamin C. And Ive made an appointment for further tests to investigate his kidney problem.
1. Ask your dog-savvy friends about their favorite dog-friendly camping destinations.
2. Call campgrounds or park rangers before you go; rules regarding dogs may change from year to year.
3. Practice hanging out in a tent with your dog, in your living room or backyard. Working on this skill late at night in a cold, dark place when you are bone-tired is not ideal.
Camping is one of my favorite vacations. There is nothing better than heading out into the wilderness, sleeping under the stars and hiking your days away. And camping is one vacation that you can fully share with every member of the family, including your canine friends!
If I could take my dogs on a cruise ship, or if five-star luxury hotels catered to the needs of high-energy dogs, I might be more excited about those vacation options. But camping really is one of the few vacations that allows even the most boisterous of our four-legged friends to easily join us on the adventure. Plus, it’s a wonderfully inexpensive way to see the world – no hotel bills and no kennel or dog-sitting expenses.
Preparation is key to guaranteed enjoyment on your first few camping trips with your dog, however. I learned this about 20 years ago, on my very first dog-camping trip with my Border Collie/Lab cross, Charlie.
Charlie had come into my life only a few months earlier, but seemed to be the perfect dog for backpacking. He had energy and stamina and loved to hike as much as I did. From our many day hikes, his feet were tough and he was already used to wearing his dog pack.We headed out, following a deer trail up the Little Sur River in California’s Los Padres National Forest.
That night, I learned that hiking with dogs and camping with them can be two distinctly different activities. The biggest problem arose when he decided that my little tent was something to be avoided at any cost. Leaving him alone outside of the tent was not a safe option, and it was too cold and damp for me to sleep outside with him. I set to work convincing him that our tent really was an okay place to be. After what felt like hours of coaxing, he finally joined me inside the tent. Throughout what remained of the night, he woke me up by growling at every little nighttime noise.
Needless to say, neither of us slept much that first night. But we did see the raccoon family that came to visit at 3 a.m. and a doe with her fawn as they waded across the river shortly before dawn. And, that first sleepless night paid off. Charlie adapted quickly. By morning, he had learned to watch through the tent screen without growling, and he had discovered that my down jacket made a perfect dog bed. The next night he willingly followed me into the tent. From that time on, he was my champion backpacker and camper.
Charlie was my first canine camping companion and, in spite of that first sleepless night, he introduced me to the joys of camping with dogs. If you’ve camped with your dog friend, you probably know what I mean. You get to walk together, set up camp together, eat together, and even cuddle in the tent together. After being together every minute of a 24-hour day, you’ll get to know each other in a whole new way.
Of course Charlie also helped me realize that it would be much easier (and I’d be more likely to get a good night’s sleep) if I considered my dog’s needs before heading out on a camping adventure. A little preparation can really make the difference in everyone’s fun.
Dog-Friendly Camping Locations
Finding a great place that offers the experience you are looking for and allows dogs can sometimes be a trick. Many places have dog restrictions that limit access. One of the best ways to find a good spot in your area is to ask other people who camp with dogs. Ask your friends, the people who work at your local outdoor store or animal supply store, the folks who work in your vet’s office, or your dog trainer. You might be surprised at how many people know the perfect spot to camp with dogs.
In addition, check out camping guidebooks (try your local library!) or look on the Internet for information about camping in a specific area or park. Many guide sources will tell you if dogs are allowed, but if they do not, you can call the camp area and ask.
As a rule of thumb, National Forests and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Lands most often allow dogs. State parks, local parks, and private campgrounds vary from location to location. National Parks will often allow dogs in the actual campground, but usually ban dogs from any trails surrounding the campground.
Once you find a place in a guidebook or hear about a great spot through a friend, investigate a little further before you go. Rules and regulations about dogs are always changing. A place that accepted dogs last year might not this year. Call ahead and ask if dogs are allowed and if there is an additional fee for the dog. In addition, ask if there are any restrictions for dogs on the surrounding trails or beaches. It could be very disappointing if the only place you and your dog can hang out together is at the tent site.
Camping Comfort Levels for You and Your Dogs:
Not every dog (or person for that matter) will enjoy backpacking or other rugged adventures. But “ruffing” it doesn’t have to be too rough. You can make camping suit your comfort level, temperament, and lifestyle – from the wildest backcountry adventure to the tamest creature-comfort campground. All can be great fun with a dog, depending on your expectations and your level of preparation. One important note: While you can socialize and train most dogs to accept most situations, for infrequent vacations, you may want to choose a camping activity that will mesh with your canine’s personality.
If you’ve never been camping, how do you know what will fit your dog’s personality and temperament? Here’s a breakdown of a few different types of camping adventures:
Car Camping
This is a fun option for people who want an outdoor experience, but don’t have the interest or experience to rough it in the backcountry. When the weekend arrives, just throw a tent, sleeping bag, and a few dozen other essential items into your car and head off for a campground. For dogs, car camping is a great option because you can easily bring along all of their “stuff” – their comfy bed or crate, towels, grooming supplies, and even the Frisbee and tug toys. Car camping is an ideal option for older dogs and dogs with health limitations. During the day you can hike and explore the surrounding areas to both of your abilities and desires, and at night you return to the full comfort of a “tent city,” complete with running water, showers, and other comforts of home. Car camping in a busy campground, however, can be an unwise choice if you have a dog who is shy, aggressive, or particularly noisy. A dog who barks a lot will cause extra stress for you and aggravation for those camping around you.
Backpacking
Packing into a wilderness area is a great option for high-energy dogs and those of us who love to hike. Unlike car camping (where you can take whatever you can cram into your vehicle), backpacking forces you to take only what you absolutely need. It also takes a certain amount of “know-how” in terms of preparation. Many dogs who don’t do well in a crowded campground are relaxed and happy in the back country. Prepare your dog for backpacking the same way you prepare yourself, by getting into shape for the trip and getting your feet ready for hours of hiking. For dogs, that may mean working to toughen up their pads ahead of time, or getting them used to wearing booties.
Recreational Vehicles
On the opposite end of the spectrum from backpacking is traveling by RV. If you have a self-contained vehicle, you can pull off the road just about anywhere it’s legal, and still have most of the comforts of home. For dogs who are easily spooked by night noises, an RV offers a safe, quiet place to sleep.
Canoeing, Rafting, Bike Touring
Just about any traveling adventure can involve camping with your dog. If you are heading out on a wilderness boating trip, a little time spent teaching your dog to ride in the canoe, kayak, or raft can mean a fun adventure together. Small dogs can be taken along on bicycle trips by attaching a carrier to the rear rack. If you can dream of doing it with your dog, you can probably make it happen.
Preparing Your Dog to Camp with Training
Getting your dog ready for a camping trip can be as simple as throwing his bed and food in the back of the truck, or as extensive as spending weeks or months conditioning. It all depends on your dog’s experience and what type of trip you plan.
For dogs who haven’t been camping before, getting them used to the tent or camper ahead of time is a great idea – or you may find your first night anything but restful! Try setting the tent up in your living room or backyard for a few days and let your dog sniff and explore. If your dog is well socialized and adjusts easily to new situations, this may be all it takes. If your dog is a bit timid, you may want to specifically train your dog to sleep in the tent. (See “Getting Your Dog Used to a Tent,” below.)
One of the most common issues for dogs who are new to camping is the issue of nighttime noises. Some dogs will cower, growl, or bark at every rustle, bump, and bang – and not without reason. Camp noises are often the noises of wild animals. Many of our city dogs have not heard the chatter of a skunk or the rustle of a family of raccoons. So how can you help your dog settle in so that you both get a good night’s sleep?
First, have your dog sleep near you. I find that having a leash on my dog (and holding the leash while I sleep) is a good way to get a new dog used to the idea that you are still in charge, and they are still safe. Put your dog’s bed right next to you, near your head. Sometimes that’s all that is needed.
Second, make sure all of your dog’s basic needs are met. Make sure he has had lots of exercise, isn’t too hungry or thirsty, has gone to the bathroom, and is warm enough. A tired, well-fed, and comfortable dog is more likely to sleep soundly.
Third, try a socialization program specifically designed to help your dog get accustomed to being in the wild and the night noises that go with it. Start by taking regular walks in the woods or other wilderness areas. Visit different places so that your dog becomes comfortable anywhere, not just in one location. Once he is happy about his wild walks and relaxed about daytime noises, extend your outings to include picnics or other “hanging out” time. Start taking walks at dusk, when the animals and noises are at their height.
Fourth – and this is for the dog who really cannot settle! – plan on turning your first few nights camping into training sessions. Have great treats available. Try simply giving your dog a treat each time you hear a noise. Have your dog learn his “spot” in the tent. Offer the kind of reassurance that works best for your dog. For some dogs that may mean calm words; for others, a no-nonsense cue such as “go to bed” helps them feel safe. Teaching your dog to tolerate nighttime noises may seem like a lot of work, but it will be worth it when you can share years of camping fun with your dog friend.
You may also want to do a little daytime training to help him learn the camping ropes. Give your dog a place in camp to hang out. Show him his place and make it a pleasant experience by giving him a pleasant chew or stuffed Kong.
If you are in a crowded campground, help your dog understand that other campers passing by are friendly. Greet people with an upbeat tone and give your dog treats for remaining calm and quiet. You may even want to enlist the help of friendly campers, asking them to give your dog a few treats, too. Be sure to help your dog feel safe in his new environment by letting him know what is expected from the start. When your dog knows that you will be in charge in this new and exciting place, he will be much more likely to settle in.
How to Get Your Dog Used to a Tent
Dogs who have never slept in a tent may be nervous the first time. Use these tips to get your dog used to the tent – before you hit the camping trail.
1. Set up your tent in a place familiar to your dog (your backyard or even your living room floor). Let your dog freely sniff and explore the tent.
2. Put your dog’s bed or a familiar blanket or towel inside the tent. Crawl inside with a handful of your dog’s favorite treats. Call your dog into the tent and give him a treat.
3. If he is reluctant to go into the tent, or nervous about being inside it, let him come in and go out at will. Give him lots of great treats each time he volunteers to go inside. Take it slow and don’t force the issue. With you on the inside, he will quickly learn that the tent is a fun place to be.
4. When your dog is comfortable entering the tent, have him lie on the blanket or bed inside. Give treats for settling onto the bed. Repeat this several times, leaving the door to the tent open so he can go in and out easily.
5. When your dog is happy entering the tent and knows his place (on the bed), have him come inside with you and close the tent flap. Hang out for a while. Read a book or do a crossword puzzle. Give your dog a wonderful chew or a stuffed Kong to encourage him to hang out.
6. Teach your dog from the start that the tent is a place to be quiet and calm, not a place to play or get rowdy. This will save you a few headaches later!
Some dogs take to a tent right away, while others may be timid or even frightened. If you don’t know how your dog will react, take it slowly and offer praise and rewards for each small success. Soon your dog will figure out that the tent is just another great place to hang out with you, especially at night when it’s cold outside.
What Dog Camping Gear Do You Need?
When you camp, what you bring is all you have, so advance planning is needed to make certain you and your dog are comfortable. Your dog’s needs fall into a few categories:
Shelter and Sleeping Gear
A good shelter and a comfortable bed are essential ingredients for every camping adventure. I highly recommend that you have your dog sleep with you in your tent or RV, rather than leaving him alone outside or even in your car. He will be more comfortable, protected from the elements, safe from predators, and less likely to be riled by night sounds if he sleeps near you. If you are car camping or backpacking, you and your dog will need a good tent.
A caveat: Dog claws are hard on tent floors. Some of the best, lightest backpacking tents are most vulnerable to dog claws. You can extend the life of your tent by teaching your dog not to scratch at the floor, and by covering the floor with other gear so he walks and sleeps primarily on the bedding. Towel off a dog’s paws before he enters the tent. And, if your dog might race out of the tent, be sure to snap your dog’s leash on before you open your tent door to exit, especially in the middle of the night! There is nothing worse than having your dog charge off after an animal in the darkness, when other campers are around and you don’t want to yell!
If you are car camping or traveling by RV, bringing along your dog’s regular bed or sleeping crate can add to his comfort level, which can mean a good night’s sleep for you both. On backpacking trips, you can bring a lightweight dog bed or have your dog share your sleeping bag. Your jacket or parka can also double as a dog bed if you don’t mind dog hair.
Protection from the Elements
Your dog will, of course, need his basic fur coat for protection. Will he need additional camp clothing? For cold weather or heavy rain, consider bringing a sweater or coat for your dog. For warmth and comfort, those made from fleece are a good choice; for wet weather, a parka made of Gore-Tex or treated nylon can offer good protection.
Food, Treats, and Water
The basic rule of thumb for feeding dogs while camping is to give them the same food that they generally eat at home, and usually in the same quantity. The exception is if you are planning (and getting your dog into shape for) a strenuous excursion. Your dog may need extra energy for backpacking, sledding, or skijoring. Don’t forget to include your dog’s favorite training treats in with your supplies. Even if your dog is a camping veteran, you could encounter a new or unusual experience that would benefit from a few training sessions.
Camping generally involves lots of activity, so your dog may need to drink more water than usual. If the area you are heading to doesn’t have a drinking water source, carry or purify enough water for your dog, too. If you can prevent it, don’t let your dog drink straight from rivers, streams, or other natural water sources; dogs are as susceptible as humans to waterborne diseases such as giardia.
Grooming Supplies
Ticks, fleas, burrs, mud, and other natural things will find your dog when camping, no doubt about it. If you are car camping, bring along a brush, flea comb, towel, and a dry or wet shampoo. In addition to your regular flea or tick protection, consider adding some type of protection from biting insects such as mosquitoes and biting flies. If you are backpacking, you may choose to travel light and take a minimum of grooming supplies. But definitely leave a towel, shampoo, and extra water for grooming at your vehicle – just in case you need to clean off your dog before a long drive home.
Leashes and Other Restraints
You will need to have a regular leash and a flat collar for your dog. Even if you are going to an area where your dog is allowed off-leash, he may need to be restrained part of the time; you never know when you might meet up with a mama skunk and her babies on the trail! You may also want to bring an x-pen or crate to keep your dog confined while in camp.
Other Essential Camping Gear for Dogs
A food and water bowl, dog pack and booties, toys and balls, your clicker and treat pouch, sunscreen and insect repellent (for dogs), and health certificate or proof of vaccinations are all good ideas. Don’t forget to bring along plastic bags or a pooper-scooper. Even if you are traveling into the wilderness, it’s best to clean up after your pooch. (Note: If you are burying your waste, it’s usually okay to bury your dog’s, too. Don’t leave it exposed to contaminate the environment.) In addition, be sure to bring along a first aid kit with supplies for your dog, as well as for you.
Any time you travel, make sure your dog wears identification that includes a number that can be reached when you are away from home (like a cell phone or a relative’s phone number).
Fun for You, Fun for Your Dog
Camping is fun, and spending time with our dogs is fun. When you combine the two, the good times multiply. Special canine camping activities add to the enjoyment. Of course, hiking tops the list. After a great camp breakfast, setting out for a day of hiking and exploration can be a great time for you and your dog. But other activities and games lend themselves to camping adventures, too. Fetching sticks, balls, and Frisbees is always enjoyable, and a great way to wear out your dog so you can relax in camp, watch the birds, or snooze in the shade.
How about doing agility, wilderness style? You can teach your dog to hop over low branches, walk across logs, and climb up a rock “A-frame.” Think about a game of “find it” or “hide and seek.”
Perhaps the greatest enjoyment is that camping allows me to live a little more like my dogs and to see the world through their eyes. When I camp, I wake up with the sun, eat when I’m hungry, walk and explore just for fun, and rest when I’m tired – just like dogs do, most days! Sharing the experience with my dog friends is a great way for me to remember to simplify and take life a little slower. My dogs remind me to notice my surroundings and encourage me to stay in the moment. Truly a great way to spend a vacation!
Mardi Richmond is a writer, dog enthusiast, and trainer in Santa Cruz, California. She is the co-author of Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs, which is undoubtedly one of the most complete resources on camping, hiking, and other outdoor adventures with dogs.
Tamara McFarland, a dedicated vegetarian, spends several hours each week cooking up giant pots of barley or whole grains. She adds chopped tomatoes, avocados, sprouts, and other vegetables. Or she’ll try different kinds of rice, wheat bran, or oatmeal. But no matter the mix, she and her three dogs love the meals.
Oh, didn’t we mention that? Her three dogs are vegetarians, too.
McFarland – who recently went vegan, which means she eats no dairy, eggs, or flesh – is one of a growing number of dog owners who think that a meatless diet is right for their companions. She transitioned her dogs to a vegetarian meal plan a few months ago after extensive research convinced her it could work.
“I found enough information out there that I thought it would be safe,” says McFarland, the executive director of Friends for Life Animal Rescue in Eureka, California. “I could tell it would be more work than just feeding high-quality dry food, but I decided it was worth it. If I cared enough for my convictions and thought it was safe for my dogs, why not do it?”
She says her dogs – Hazel and Otis, who are 4-year-old Weimaraner mixes, and a 7-year-old Rottweiler mix, Rowdy – are doing very well on the diet. She says Hazel had always been a picky eater until she began eating vegetables – “I think for her it’s more than the taste, it’s the variety” – and Rowdy has shed a few extra pounds.
For some owners, like McFarland, feeding their pets vegetarian fare is a choice based on ethical beliefs. Horror stories about inhumane treatment of slaughter-bound animals are perennially leaked from the meat-packing industry, and many people are loath to support those processes, even through dog food. For others, its about health; they fear that the meat that finds its way into commercial dog foods may pose health risks to their pets.
It’s long been known that some of the meat found in pet foods (especially low-cost products) comes from animals that are known as “four D”: dead, dying, diseased, or disabled animals unfit for human consumption. Chicken legs marred by tumors, for example, can’t be sold at your supermarket meat counter – but they can provide fodder for dog food.
In addition, many meat-based pet foods contain trace amounts of the same hormones, pesticides, and antibiotics that are found in commercial meat products for humans. People who avoid such substances out of concern about potential health problems may want their pets to avoid them, also.
Not obligate carnivores
Still, at first blush, the idea of a dog feasting on tomatoes and rice might seem ludicrous. There’s a pervasive notion that dogs are carnivores and require meat for optimal health. However, that conventional wisdom doesn’t hold water, say some veterinarians.
“Dogs originally were carnivores, but we’ve evolved them to be omnivores,” explains Jean Dodds, DVM, an expert in canine nutrition and holistic medicine based in Santa Monica, California. “It’s possible for a dog to be a vegetarian, just as it’s possible for humans to be.” (The same cannot be said of cats, who are true obligate carnivores.)
Also, the belief that there are certain proteins that can be found only in meat is a fallacy.
“All meat and vegetable proteins are broken down in the gut into amino acids; it’s the amino acids that are absorbed,” says Tony Buffington, DVM, Professor of Veterinary Clinical Sciences at the Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital. “It doesn’t matter where the proteins come from, and most vegetarians are very good about combining foods to create complete proteins.”
Allergic to meat
In fact, for some dogs – namely, those who have allergies to meat or other problems with a meat-based diet – vegetarian can be the best way to go. For example, Dr. Dodds recommends a vegetarian feeding plan for dogs suffering from inflammatory bowel disease.
“For bowel disease we use black-eyed peas or beans as a good protein source, multivitamins, plus a basic cereal (home-cooked rice or unusual grains, like flax, quinoa, and so on). Our classic inflammatory bowel disease diet would be a ratio of two-thirds white potatoes mixed with sweet potatoes or yams, with the other third (comprised of) vegetables with fish or eggs, cheese, black-eyed peas or beans, and a multivitamin,” describes Dr. Dodds.
Bones do, however, provide key nutrients that might be difficult to obtain in sufficient quantities in a completely flesh-free diet, says Dr. Dodds. As a compromise, some owners add supplements or feed their dogs a mainly vegetarian diet but include raw, meaty bones.
“That’s especially important for young, growing animals,” says Dr. Dodds. “I’d be a nervous if a large-breed, rapidly growing puppy were to go completely vegetarian.”
Covering the bases
Vegetarians, especially vegans, know it can be difficult and time-consuming to prepare well-rounded meals for themselves. It requires just as much work to give your dogs a healthy diet – and despite your best efforts, you can still leave gaps.
To fill the void, owners often turn to supplements. Dr. Buffington uses vitamin/mineral supplements intended for humans; “I usually use the one for 2- to 3-year-old children, but for a big dog an adult level is fine,” he says. Some companies have begun marketing canine-specific additives in liquid or powder form that can be mixed in with your dog’s meals to help shore up nutritional requirements.
James Peden owns Harbingers of a New Age, a company in Troy, Montana, that makes and markets the VegeDog supplement. He says adding nutrients to your dog’s diet is essential.
“Dogs have such different nutritional needs,” he explains. “If you feed them a vegetarian diet without supplementing it, chances are they won’t have enough minerals to keep their bones strong.”
Peden, a longtime vegetarian, created a supplement called VegeCat in 1986 after doing a year of research on animal nutrition at the University of Oregon at Corvallis. Shortly thereafter, he developed VegeDog.
“There were a little over 50 nutrients we’d try to meet requirements for,” he says. His findings were based in part on the National Research Council’s nutritional tables for dogs, published in 1985. He’s planning to update his formula when the new tables are published this year, he says.
Help is available
But while supplementation might help fill some gaps, it still can’t guarantee optimal nutrition. Some vets fear that a vegetarian diet, even coupled with supplemental vitamin and mineral pills, will fall short. And shortfalls in nutrition might not be readily apparent in the dog’s health. Dogs can adapt very well to a poor diet, says Dr. Buffington, whether it’s meat-based or vegetarian. He recalled once offering a colleague, whose dog was on a cottage cheese and rice diet, a vitamin and mineral supplement that he’d designed. When he asked how her dog was doing, she told him the animal was in great health. He observed that the dog must only have been on the diet a short while. “Oh yes,” she replied, “only about four years.”
Which goes to show that dogs, he says, can survive on just about anything. “There’s so much biological adaptivity built into the species that they can deal with almost anything we do to them, nutritionally,” he says. And that makes it hard to tell if your dog is really getting what he needs in his diet.
One valuable tool for helping dog owners put together a complete and balanced meat-free diet for their dogs is Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets: The Healthful Alternative, by Donald R. Strombeck, DVM, Ph.D. (1999 Iowa State University Press). Dr. Strombeck practiced as a small animal clinician for more than 40 years, and is professor emeritus at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine. He has received numerous awards in his career, including the Ralston Purina Award for research excellence for his work in gastroenterology.
In the preface of his book, Dr. Strombeck says that diet is the most important consideration is a pet’s care, determining both health and life expectancy. Further, he says, the pet food industry “believes that average owners cannot prepare and feed their pets a complete and balanced diet. Unfortunately, commercially prepared diets are not always complete and balanced, and just as important, they offer no choice about quality and wholesomeness, which are of the utmost importance.”
Dozens of complete and balanced diets that dog and cat owners can prepare at home are published in the book, each formulated by Dr. Strombeck, and each listing the diet’s caloric, protein, and fat content. This includes a number of vegetarian diets, as well as diets specifically formulated to benefit animals with special health considerations, including young animals and pets with skin problems. He also offers diets that can help with the management of gastrointestinal, renal, urinary, endocrine, heart, pancreatic, and hepatic disease.
Help in formulating a complete, healthy diet for your dog can also be obtained from university veterinary colleges. Some, including the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital at the University of California, Davis, will actually customize a diet for your dog’s needs, for a reasonable fee ($100). You have to seek this option through your veterinarian, however. For more information about the program, call the small animal hospital at (530) 752-1393 and ask for “Nutrition Services.” Or see vmth.ucdavis.edu/vmth/services/nutrition/nutrition.html.
Do vegetarians live longer?
It’s easy to find owners who say a vegetarian diet results in great health improvements in their dogs. McFarland says Hazel, one of her Weimaraner mixes, hasn’t had a flare-up of her arthritis since switching to a meatless diet. Peden relates how his Yorkie, adopted two years ago, slimmed down from a hefty 17 pounds to 11 pounds and overcame extreme halitosis. And some credit unusual longevity to a diet focused on greens and grains.
Stephanie Burns of Traverse City, Michigan, celebrated her dog Tykie’s 24th birthday on March 15, 2003. The 25-pound, Terrier/Schnauzer/Husky mix has been the recent subject of the media spotlight, earning mentions nationwide as one of the oldest dogs in the United States. Burns credits Tykie’s diet – he’s been a vegetarian since he was 8 weeks old – and plenty of exercise as the keys to his longevity. And in addition to being old, she hastens to add, he’s still healthy.
“His eyes are clear, his bloodwork is perfect, he has no tumors,” she says. “He’s deaf, so I have to use sign language, and he has a little arthritis, but other than that he’s in great shape.”
Tykie’s typical diet includes rolled oats and bulgur wheat, shredded carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, and ground nuts. Burns also adds a variety of enhancements including molasses, ginger, garlic, lecithin, yeast, flaxseed, and wheatgrass.
A pooch thought to be the oldest dog in the world – a Border Collie in England named Bramble, said to be 27 in news reports last summer – is a vegan.
But all the owner testimonials in the world won’t convince Lisa Freeman, DVM, an associate professor of clinical science at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine and a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition (ACVN). Freeman is a vegetarian herself but doesn’t recommend vegetarian diets for dogs. “There are lots of anecdotal reports, but it’s very easy to point out examples of anything,” she says. “What really needs to be done is a scientific study.”
A 14-year study conducted by the University of Pennsylvania and published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (May 1, 2002) did find that a calorie-restricted diet in dogs resulted in an increased median life span. The study did not examine vegetarian diets, although proponents of plant-based diets are quick to point out that they tend to be lower in calories than diets that incorporate meat.
This brings up a final caution for owners considering going green: There are no formal studies that examine vegetarian diets over the long haul. And informally, commercial, meat-based foods have been tested in the real world much more extensively than vegetarian diets.
“Commercially prepared (meat-based) diets in the United States are tested on 60 million dogs a day,” says Dr. Buffington. “Vegetarian diets are probably tested on 6,000 or 60,000 or whatever, so there’s an order of magnitude there. We know more about the effects of commercially prepared foods than we do about vegetarian food.”
While there are plenty of caution signs out there when it comes to feeding your dog green, owners like Tamara McFarland and Stephanie Burns are convinced they’re doing the right thing. In fact, spurred by numerous requests about Tykie’s diet after he became famous, Burns is planning to market her own line of ready-made, vegetarian meals for dogs.
Meanwhile, McFarland is making up another batch of barley. She says switching her dogs to a meat-free diet has been one of the best things she’s done for them.
“I’m definitely happy I did this, and I think the dogs are happy too,” she says. “They really seem to enjoy it and are the better for it.”
C.C. Holland is a freelance writer from Oakland, CA, who enjoys applying what she learns about canine health and behavior to her own mixed-breed dog, Lucky.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
