Training is about relationship. While basic good manners and other more complex lessons are undeniably an important part of training, the most successful dog/owner teams are those who have cultivated their relationships with each other while they learn the ins and outs of “Sit,” Down,” “Stay,” and all the other things a dog needs to know. In other words, the best teams are those who remember to have fun together along the way.
By the way: Just about everything presented here regarding dogs also applies to puppies – it especially applies to pups! That’s because puppies are irrepressible fun machines. They romp, they play, they chase, they chew, they wrestle – in fact for a good part of your first six to 12 months with your new pup you will probably spend a lot of time trying to convince him to have a little less fun!
Be careful that you don’t go overboard. If you insist that he be too serious, he’ll forget how to play, and you’ll end up with a lump of overweight canine who doesn’t even want to accompany you on your walks around the block. Instead, engage your pup – and later, your dog – in structured games that direct his play-energy into appropriate channels, reinforce his play behaviors, reward his sense of humor, and keep the relationship flames burning bright.
Fun games for Fido go far beyond fetching a tennis ball or a Frisbee. We’re going to assume you know the old stand-bys, and introduce you to some that you may not have thought of. There are games you and Fido can play together, games the whole family can play, and games you and Fido can play with your friends and their dogs. Some of the best games also have practical applications, but don’t let the practical aspects override the play. Have fun!
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GAMES FOR YOU AND FIDO:
Ever wonder how those drug dogs do what they do? You can teach your dog to find stuff and wow your friends with his prowess. Dogs’ noses are a bazillion times more sensitive than ours, so this is easy for Fido, once he understands what you want.
Find It!
Step 1: Have Fido wait and watch while you “hide” a strong-smelling treat in plain view, 5-10 feet away from him. Return to his side, tell him to “Find it!” and encourage him to go get the treat. Repeat this a few times until he seems to have the idea. Most dogs catch onto this pretty quickly.
Step 2: Have Fido wait and watch you hide the treat in a less obvious place, such as behind a chair leg, under the edge of a cushion, or next to a toy. Return to his side, tell him to “Find it!” and encourage him to go get the treat. When he can do this, hide several treats while he watches, and keep encouraging him to “Find it!” until he has found them all. Repeat this until he is doing it easily. If he has trouble, don’t show him where the treats are – you will teach him to wait for you to point them out, rather than use his nose to find them himself! Move in the general direction of the hidden treat, but don’t show it to him.
Step 3: Have Fido wait where he can’t see you. Hide several treats in the same places you hid them before. Bring him into the room and tell him to “Find it!” Keep encouraging him until he has found them all. If he has trouble, move in the general direction of the treat, but don’t show it to him.
Step 4: Try “Find it!” with other things – a ball, or a favorite chew toy. Show your dog the ball, have him wait and watch while you hide it in an easy place, then tell him “Find the ball!” Once he gets the idea, hide it without him watching, and tell him to “Find the ball!”
Practical applications: Are you forever forgetting where you left your car keys or the remote control? Let Fido find them for you. Teach him to find your kids, other family members, and friends! Our dog Josie learned how to find lost turtles; we didn’t even realize we were teaching her, but it sure came in handy when our turtles escaped! (See “Is Your Dog Hiding a Talent?” WDJ August 1999.)
If you have a dog who exhibits mild separation anxiety when you leave, you can hide several treats and a stuffed Kong or two. Ask her to “Find it!” just before you leave, and she will be too busy looking for hidden goodies to worry about you leaving.
Caution: Don’t hide treats in places that will encourage your dog to dig into carpets or cushions or chew furniture to get to them.
Jumping Jacks
When I was a kid, my favorite game was to put mop handles and broomsticks across chairs and run through the house jumping over them with my Collie. Great exercise for both of us!
You may not choose to jump over jumps with your dog (although you might be surprised to discover how much fun it is), but you can create jumps from broomsticks, scraps of woods, boxes, and other household items. You can buy materials and build simple jumps if you are handy, or splurge and buy a set of agility or flyball jumps to play with – as long as you promise not to get all serious just because you paid real money for them!
Step 1: Set up one low jump. If your dog is very cautious, just lay the bar on the floor and encourage your dog to step over it by luring him with a treat. As he gets braver, toss treats on one side of the low jump, then the other, until he is jumping it easily. Use lots of verbal praise as well, to keep it cheerful, exciting and fun.
Step 2: When he is jumping the low jump smoothly, add a verbal cue such as “Jump!,” “Hup!,” or “Over!” Start using the cue just before you toss the treat.
Step 3: To fade the use of the treat, make a motion with your hand as if you were tossing the treat, then give the verbal cue. After your dog jumps, then toss the treat. Eventually move to random reinforcement, where he gets a treat sometimes, but not every time he jumps. Remember to use verbal praise – your excitement will keep him enthusiastic about jumping.
Step 4: Gradually raise the jump to a height that is suitable for your dog. Vary the location and type of jumps, so your dog is very jump-versatile. You can hang towels or jackets over jump bars to change the look, put flower pots or children’s toys under them – be creative.
Practical applications: Hopping over small obstacles when you are hiking in the woods; and hey, Lassie jumped over fences when she ran home to tell everyone that Timmy was in the well!
Caution: Puppies should not jump too much or too high; it can damage their soft baby bones and joints. Even adult dogs should jump primarily on giving surfaces (grass, not concrete; carpet, not hardwood floors) with good traction to avoid injury and arthritis, and should not be asked to jump higher than is comfortable and safe for them. Ask your veterinarian how much jumping your dog should do.
Hide and Seek
This is easy and great fun, especially if you start with a young puppy who is still very dependent on you.
Step 1: Take your dog for a walk in an area with some trees and other objects you can hide behind. When he is busy sniffing or bird watching, hide behind a tree. Be quiet and still, but peek out so you can watch him.
Step 2: When your dog notices that you are gone, he should start searching for you. Let him search and find you, then make a big fuss over him with lots of yummy treats, tug with a tug toy, chase a ball, or whatever other reward is very meaningful to him. If he can’t find you or doesn’t look for you, help him – but just a little – by calling his name softly or making some other small sound that will get him started in the right direction.
Practical applications: This game teaches your dog to keep his eye on you – he never knows when you might disappear! It also teaches him to look for and find you if you happen to get separated accidentally.
Caution: Some dogs panic if they can’t find you, especially dogs prone to separation anxiety. Remember to watch your dog, and help him if he is looking anxious, before full-fledged panic sets in. Also, some dogs could care less about where you are. If you think your dog might just run off into the woods when you play this game, keep him on a long line when you hide so you can prevent him from leaving.
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GROUP GAMES:
Most of the following games can be played with the whole family, or are games you and Fido can play with your friends and their dogs. If your family has just one dog, pass him from one person to the next. Or get a group of your friends together with their dogs! Some of the following games are great party activities for 4-H or dog training club get-togethers.
Sit Around the World
This game is not only fun, but it also practices that all-important “coming when called” behavior and reinforces polite greetings.
Step 1: Arrange all available human players in a large circle in a safely enclosed area. Begin with Fido sitting in front of one person.
Step 2: Have the next person in the circle call the dog with a cheerful, enthusiastic, “Fido, come!” You can use toys and squeakers initially, if necessary, to get Fido excited about playing the game. When Fido comes, he must sit before he gets his treat reward. Lure the sit, rather than giving the “Sit” cue, so he learns to sit in greeting without being asked.
Step 3: Have the next person in the circle call the dog.
Step 4: When Fido is really good about coming around the circle, you can start calling him randomly across the circle.
Step 5: To play this game as a competition, be sure the humans are equally spaced, and then use a stopwatch to keep track of the time it takes for Fido to come and sit for each person. The holder of the fastest time, or fastest average times, is the winner.
Practical applications: Coming when called and polite greetings – how much more practical can you get? If you have a multi-dog household, try this with two or more dogs at a time, after each dog has learned the game individually.
Caution: If Fido is large and tends to jump up, small children may not be able to play this game until the dog understands the rules.
Musical Sits
For a group of dog people, this is far more fun than the human-only version of musical chairs. It can be played on several different levels, from beginner to advanced. As a another variation, each game can be played with downs instead of sits.
Easy version: Have dogs and handlers walk to the music around orange cones in a large circle. When the music stops, all players ask the dogs to sit. Luring with treats is allowed; physically forcing the dogs to sit is not. First dog to sit wins! Repeat until everyone has had enough play.
Intermediate version: Space rug sample squares evenly around a large circle, with one fewer rug than there are dog/handler teams. Have dogs and handlers walk to the music, outside the circle of rugs. When the music stops, players must proceed to the next available rug square and have their dogs sit. The team that doesn’t get a rug is out. Repeat until one team wins.
Advanced version: Set out a double line of chairs back to back, in the center of the room, with one fewer chair than dog/handler teams. Put rug sample squares in a large circle around the chairs, one rug per team. Have dog and handlers walk to the music outside the circle of rugs. When the music stops, players must proceed to the next available rug, put their dogs on a sit-stay, and run for a chair. Player who doesn’t get a chair is out. However, if a dog breaks his sit-stay, the player must return to the dog, re-establish the sit-stay, and then return to her chair. Meanwhile, of course, another player can sit in the chair.
Practical applications: Great opportunity to practice leash-walking in groups, fast sits, downs, and reliable stays with lots of distractions.
Caution: Players can get pretty enthusiastic with this game. You may need to establish safety rules based on the footing of the play area, and the energy level, size, and strength of various players.
Diving For Dogs
Our Pomeranian loves this one so much that he starts trembling with joy and anticipation when he sees us setting it up!
Step 1: Slice several hotdogs into an equal number of pennies. Keep each hot dog separate from the others.
Step 2: Put 2 to 12 inches of water in a pan or tub. Small dogs will require a shallower “pool.”
Step 3: Drop one hot dog’s worth of pennies into the pan. Let the dog watch you do this. Be sure he knows they are hotdogs.
Step 4: With your stopwatch in hand, say, “Ready, set, go!” and start the stopwatch. On “Go,” the handler releases the dog and encourages him to get the hotdogs out of the water and eat them. The dog who eats all his hotdog pieces the fastest wins.
Practical applications: None I can think of, but it sure is fun and the dogs love it! Actually, if you want to teach your dog to retrieve under water, this can get him started.
Caution: I have never seen it happen, but you might want to watch for a dog who risks drowning himself while “diving for dogs.” Stop the game if a dog starts sputtering.
My Dog Can Do That
This is a commercially produced board game that you play with your dog. The game consists of three decks of cards – beginner, intermediate, and advanced. Any dog with basic good manners training can play.
Each card has a behavior described on it that you have to try to get your dog to do – from simple “Sit on a verbal cue” from the beginner deck, to “Pick up a toy and drop it in a basket” in the advanced deck. The value is listed on the card (3 spaces, 5 spaces, 12 spaces, etc.); generally the more difficult the behavior, the higher the value.
You have 30 seconds to get your dog to perform the task on the card you’ve drawn. If you and your dog succeed, you can move your marker that many spaces on the board (or earn that many points, if you just keep score).
If you don’t succeed, the next player in line – if she thinks her dog can perform the behavior – says “My Dog Can Do That!” (It is perfectly acceptable to use a superior tone of voice when saying “My Dog Can Do That!”) If she and her dog succeed, she moves double the number of spaces or earns double the number of points. The team that reaches “Finish” on the board or who has the most number of points at the previously agreed-upon ending time of the game, wins.
My Dog Can Do That is available from many pet supply sources, including DogWise (www.dogwise.com or 800-776-2665).
Practical applications: Lots of opportunities to practice a wide variety of good manners behaviors. Great motivator for teaching your dog tricks, including “Roll over,” “Say your prayers,” and “Balance a treat on your nose.”
Caution: Official rules say to play off-leash. Depending on level of players and security of your playing field you may want to modify this to allow leashes some or all of the time.
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Personal preferences
Different types of games appeal to different human and canine personalities. There are many more games to be played than the ones we have described for you here, although we hope you found some that you like. Talk to your dog friends and see what ideas they have. Look up “dog training games” on the Internet and see if you can find more. Pick out the ones you and your dog are most likely to enjoy, gather the equipment you need to set them up – and then go play in the yard!
1. Use integrated pest management techniques, rather than pesticides, to control fleas in your environment.
2. Work to strengthen your dog’s immune system, to engage his natural resistance to fleas.
3. Use gentle herbal supplements and rinses that help promote your dog’s healthy skin and coat.
Summertime – a season of outdoor fun, warm nights, plenty of sunshine, and fleas.
Although they prefer a warm, humid climate, fleas can thrive virtually anywhere, even places where they seemingly have nothing to eat. When food (like your dog) is not available, fleas will feed upon the bodies of each other as they lay in wait for a larger meal, nestled within the ground covers, carpets, and cracks they call home.
These tough, relentless survivors spend most of their time in the environment, not on the actual host – which is exactly why so many conventional anti-flea treatments don’t work well in the long term. Most conventional approaches to flea control involve killing the tiny ectoparasites where they feed – on the dog. However, many people remain unaware of the possible downsides of using chemical insecticides on their pets. After all, these are products that are freely offered over-the-counter at pet stores, grooming salons, and across the front desks of veterinary clinics – they must be safe, right?
Unfortunately, they are not as safe as one might think. How could they be? After all, we are talking about chemicals powerful enough to kill an ancient, highly adaptable parasite that has survived, and will continue to survive, beyond the extinction of thousands of host species.
Many of the most widely used commercial flea killers on the market are very effective poisons with long-term effects that remain unknown or are seldom discussed. This includes many of the popular anti-flea remedies that are absorbed through an animal’s skin. These products are toxic enough to require manufacturing employees to be outfitted with respirators and protective clothing. Warnings against skin contact are printed right on the labels, based from caution that is derived from animal testing – yet millions of people feel comfortable with allowing these chemicals to course through a dog’s body and impregnate every inch of their dog’s skin.
Other conventional approaches to providing dogs with some relief from flea bites include medicated shampoos, corticoid ointments, or corticosteroid therapies. The problem is, Prednisone and other corticosteroid drugs don’t just suppress uncomfortable itching and inflammation, they suppress the immune system as well. Add to this the possible long-term side effects of water retention, hypertension, liver damage, thyroid dysfunction, obesity, and heart attack, and suddenly the corticosteroid option doesn’t sound so kind.
The Whole Dog Approach to Flea Removal
When approached from a holistic perspective, long-term flea control does not begin with insecticide flea sprays, dips, or shampoos. It begins only after the caregiver reaches an understanding of how fleas live, behave, and how they select their hosts. From this perspective we can see that it is the effects of fleas, and not their existence, that cause so much misery to our dogs – the fleas themselves are only a single symptom of deep-seated and complex health problem.
To clarify, let’s take a look at what I call the “Flea vs. Host Dog” scenario.
Dogs have been host to fleas, as well as thousands of other parasites, for millions of years. Certainly, like all cross-species relationships, nature maintains certain checks and balances that allow parasites and their hosts to coexist in symbiotic harmony.
But in the case of fleas and domesticated canines, we keep seeing the same scenario repeat itself: Host Dog is completely tormented by fleas while his canine companion, although in the same house, seems relatively trouble-free. Why? Because the natural countermeasures that exist between Flea and Host Dog are no longer working. The parasite-host relationship is out of balance.
Flea problems do not actually stem from the mere presence of fleas, but from health-related and environmental circumstances that allow parasites to wreak havoc upon a weakened host.
Like all parasites, fleas are opportunistic, preying on the easiest meal they can find. While it is true that dogs with healthy skins and coats are usually less bothered by fleas than those with flaky, dry skin and constantly shedding coats, this is only part of the picture. Deeper toward the root of the problem are issues involving Host Dog’s immune system and the way his body reacts to flea bites. Host Dog is allergic to flea bites, and for reasons that have little to do with the fleas themselves, his body system can neither repel nor tolerate their bites.
Strengthen Your Dog’s Health for Better Flea Resistance
If your dog’s body is overburdened with problems of poor digestion, inadequate waste elimination, over-vaccination, or food allergies, his immune system’s ability to deal with fleas and their saliva will be greatly reduced. This is why properly nourished dogs with well-balanced immune systems aren’t bothered by the bites of fleas.
In many cases, switching from kibble to a raw or home-cooked diet will bring a world of positive change to dogs who suffer from flea allergies. Changing the type of meat you feed and weeding out allergens from the diet can bring quick positive results. Common food allergens include grains, yeast, soy, and synthetic preservatives.
Supplementing your dog’s diet with a well-balanced essential fatty acid (EFA) supplement is also important. In fact, EFAs may be the most important of all dietary supplements for flea allergy sufferers. The Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids contained in fish and vegetable oils play critical roles in how your companion’s immune system responds to the introduction of flea saliva and other antigenic compounds that enter the body. EFAs are also important in building a strong, healthy, flea-resistant skin and coat – making the feeding ground less attractive to hungry opportunists.
Probiotics (Bifidus, Acidophilus, etc.) and digestive enzyme supplements are also strongly indicated for flea sufferers. These two groups of supplements assist the transport of nutrients throughout the body and the breakdown and removal of waste materials that might otherwise contribute to food-related allergies. Among the best products I’ve seen is the new Plant Enzymes & Probiotics Supplement for Dogs & Cats by Animal Essentials, which combines both supplements into a concentrated, easy-to-feed powder. (Note: I have served Animal Essentials as an independent contractor, but do not receive any compensation for this product.)
Treat Your Environment for Fleas
Remember, fleas spend about 80 percent of their time not on the host, but in the surrounding environment. Furthermore, flea eggs can remain dormant for several months. This means that you must be relentless at hitting them where they sleep and reproduce. (See “Eliminate Fleas Without Poison: Integrated Pest Management,” March 2002, for more information on this topic.)
There are also several herbal products available that can be applied to the dog’s bedding, carpet, or outdoor areas to help repel or even kill fleas. Look for those that contain oils and/or extracts of juniper, citronella, eucalyptus, cedar, Canadian fleabane, or citrus oil (the latter two contain d-Limonene, which can kill fleas).
Herbal Support as a Flea Deterrent
A small pinch of garlic powder can be added to your companion’s food to help support the immune system, skin, and liver – systems that work overtime to weed out and eliminate allergens. However, contrary to what some people believe, garlic should not be fed in quantities so great that garlic odor exudes from your dog’s skin. This is not only an unnecessary waste of garlic, it can be harmful to your dog, especially if continued over an extended period. Just use a pinch of garlic powder – Rover does not need to smell like a delicatessen to benefit from this herb!
Also, try adding apple cider vinegar to the animals’ water dish – some people swear by this, as it may add some nutrients that help the animal deal with the fleas. Animals supplemented with B-complex, trace minerals, and zinc also seem to have fewer problems with fleas.
Alterative herbs, such as burdock root (Arctium spp.), Dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale), or Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) may also be used to help eliminate waste and allow natural defense systems to work more freely toward coping with flea bites. I like using these herbs in the form of a low-alcohol liquid tincture, which can be added to the food according to the manufacturer’s directions, or squirted directly into the dog’s mouth.
Nettle (Urtica spp.) is one of my favorites for treating any type of allergy (see “Prove Your Nettle,” May 2003). The dried herb (easily accessed at the health food store) can be sprinkled onto your animal’s food to lend nutritive support. One-half teaspoon of the dried herb for each cup of food fed is a good amount.
Nettle is also thought to reduce the severity of an allergic response. If your animal won’t eat dried nettle, you can steep it in hot water or salt-free meat broth, which is then added to your companion’s food.
If flea bite allergies are severe, itching is persistent, and the skin is red and inflamed, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) can be used as an internal anti-inflammatory (see “Licorice Soothes and Heals,” January 2003).
To help relieve itching and promote healing externally, a calendula flower rinse is a good choice, as is aloe juice, which can be diluted with four parts water (e.g., 1 cup aloe juice to 4 parts water). Dried peppermint or lavender flowers may also be added to bring relief as well.
To make the rinse, simply brew a strong tea from the dried herbs of your choice (¼ cup herbs to one quart of boiling water), let steep until cool, then pour the cooled liquid into your companion’s coat. If scratching has left oozing, infected scabs, yarrow (Achillea spp.), rosemary, or thyme can be generously added to the rinse formula.
Bathing Your Dog for Flea Relief
Bathe your dog only with shampoos that are meant for use on dogs – shampoos for humans can be too harsh and irritate the skin, and may add to the allergies that already contribute to your companion’s misery.
There are many very good herbal dog shampoos on the market. These can be very useful for cleaning flea and body waste build-ups from the skin, and for bringing soothing relief. However, don’t shampoo your dog too often, as this can dry out her skin and cause added irritation.
Overuse can also result in microbial imbalances on the surface of the body. Your companion’s skin supports a natural community of interdependent organisms, many of which serve anti-parasitic or cleansing purposes. In fact, fleas get their own type of parasites – tiny mites that crawl beneath their body armor.
Let the flea’s fleas do their job; it’s part of the grand scheme, and part of dealing with an ancient, highly adaptable species – on their own bloodsucking terms!
Greg Tilford is a well-known veterinary herbalist, lecturer, and author. He serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals. He is author of four books on herbs, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets (Bowtie, 1999), which he co-authored with his wife, Mary.
Regarding Pat Millers article on flying with dogs (Fearless Flying, March 2003): What I have learned after at least 10 round trips on at least 3 airlines with a 14-pound Norwich Terrier is that they are all different.
Some have a 10-inch maximum, some a 10-pound maximum, some 14 or 15 pounds. Basically, they just look to see if your dog will reasonably fit into the crate.
The Texas health certificate asks only for a rabies shot and a statement that the pet is free of communicable disease, which allows for titer test results. (By the way, Texas has just become enlightened enough to change the rabies vaccination requirement from every year to every three years!)
Most airlines now require a health certificate within 10 days of the beginning of the trip only.
When you make your reservation, you get a confirmation number for you and another one for your dog. Make sure you have both.
I always warn the person in front of me that there is a dog under their seat in the event (which has never happened so far) that, if the dog barks, that person will not have a heart attack.
Not all airports are alike. All the security checks that I have been through require me to take the dog out of the carrier to go through the security gate. And some are downright dog friendly. Salt Lake City, for instance, is happy to have your dog on a leash anywhere in the airport.
Until airlines and airports recognize that dogs are good people to have aboard, we should treat bringing our dog with us as a privilege and not abuse it by, for instance, taking our pets out of the carrier where this is not allowed.
-Carlynn Ricks via e-mail
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Many years ago I began asking flight attendants if they would check their dogs. Not one said yes. So when I got a Bedlington Terrier, my vacation plans received a new, very restrictive constraint.
The other trouble I run into is that USDA regulations, which apply only to cargo, not to in-cabin travel, say the dog must be able to stand up and turn around in the carrier. Many flight people are ill informed about this and it can cause problems at check-in for a full grown Bedlington.
Youve probably heard there is a new private airline, Companion Air, that would solve all our problems, but it is a bit pricey. They will start flying soon; for more information, see www.companionair.com.
-Suzanne Haggerty Cape May, NJ
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We would never ship our dogs by air, either, unless we were in a privately chartered aircraft allowing dogs in the passenger cabin or had our dogs with us in a commercial aircraft passenger cabin.
However, the article failed to mention several problems. More animals than just dogs and cats are shipped by air. Exactly how are airline personnel expected to inspect and verify the health status of snakes, birds, fish, rats, turtles, etc., prior to and after shipment? In most commercial passenger aircraft during fight there is no access to baggage compartments. How are airline personnel supposed to accomplish closer observation of animals in flight?
Commercial airlines are in the business of transporting people, not animals. The reason airlines restrict the number of pets allowed in the passenger cabin is because some passengers are allergic to pets. The best the airline can do is limit the number of animals allowed on a particular flight and keep allergic people as far away as possible.
-Gail Miller Round Hill, VA
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From a practical point of view, many of us are in a position where we have to transport our dogs via cargo or excess baggage; I cant fit an 80-pound German Shepherd under the seat! My last dog took about a dozen flights in the hold six of them overseas. All were, fortunately, uneventful, although one took some strong intervention on my part to ensure my dog was not left behind.
I know many individuals who are in the same position as I am. While this unquestionably involves more risk than taking a dog in the cabin, there are many things that can be done to minimize potential problems.
The following is my checklist for when I must fly and my dog cannot travel in the cabin with me (traveling as excess baggage, not cargo):
• Book in advance • Direct flight only if at all possible • Know type of equipment (plane) and temperature regulations • Acclimatizing dog • Health papers • Selection of crate • Accustoming dog to crate • Labeling/information on crate • Food/instructions attached to crate • Unique identifying markings on crate • Airport arrival • Checking in • Remaining with dog until baggage handlers come for him • Checking in at gate, notifying agent • Watching for dog to be loaded • Notifying agent on board • Receiving notification that dog is on plane • If necessary, refusing to allow plane to leave gate w/o notification • Know exactly where dog will come in at end point (oversize baggage door) • Know approximate time to unload • Inquire if time excessive to unload • Take food/medications/clean-up • Have phone number and location of emergency vet if necessary • Thank baggage office/personnel if time allows
When the Norwegian Elkhound rescue came to me and my husband, she couldn’t climb stairs. Attempts to lift the old dog resulted in snaps at our hands. Radiographs revealed that she had severe hip dysplasia and an unrepaired pelvis, broken when she was hit by a car sometime in her past. As a result, Shadow had crippling arthritis. On good days, she would lie in the sun without panting from pain; on bad days, her stiffness rendered her incontinent. We observed her misery and wondered what could be done.
Our veterinarian prescribed Rimadyl®. Within a few days, Shadow was running in the yard, playing with the other dogs. She bounded up the steps on her own and we no longer had to clean up urine puddles where she napped. The improvement was amazing, so for months, we kept Shadow on a twice-daily dose of the popular canine drug.
One morning we found vomit around her bed. She refused to eat or drink and had to be carried outside, where she laid down instead of emptying her bladder. A rushed visit to the veterinarian and blood tests indicated that Shadow’s liver enzymes where elevated “off the charts.”
Shadow’s liver failure was so extreme, her condition was hopeless. In complete shock, we gave our permission for Shadow to be euthanized.
Because stories about Rimadyl-related deaths were making pet news, we asked if the arthritis drug could be responsible. Our veterinarian was uncertain.
What is certain is that between 20 to 50 percent of older dogs develop osteoarthritis. And, as with human arthritis sufferers, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) can help dogs by reducing the inflammation caused by arthritis, thereby relieving stiffness and discomfort. In many veterinary clinics the recommended therapy may be Rimadyl®, EtoGesic®, or Deramaxx™. But, like all medications, these drugs can cause serious side effects, and should not be used without a thorough understanding of their risks.
A Safe Everyday Painkiller for Dogs: Too Good to Be True?
In January 1997, when carprofen was first introduced by Pfizer to the veterinary market as Rimadyl, it appeared to be nothing less than a wonder drug. Initial trial results indicated that dogs who were given the drug had increased mobility and decreased pain, and indeed, many dog owners who sought prescriptions for their arthritic dogs were thrilled to see their beloved pets running, jumping, and playing again as they had in pre-arthritic days. Rimadyl became one of the most widely prescribed veterinary drugs of all times.
But with increased usage came an increasing number of reports of dogs who became ill after taking Rimadyl. The Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA CVM) tallied hundreds of “adverse drug experience” (ADE) reports noting side effects including vomiting, altered kidney or liver enzymes, loss of appetite, lethargy, increased urination, diarrhea (often bloody), weakness, confusion, and convulsions.
At first there seemed to be no cause for alarm because the side effects were common to NSAID usage and were similar to those observed during pre-approval testing. Then dogs started dying.
One of the earliest casualties was George, an arthritic Labrador Retriever rescued by Jean Townsend of South Carolina. “I’d read the brochures in my vet’s office about Rimadyl. It sounded like a miracle drug,” says Townsend, “I decided this drug would help George.”
At the end of a 10-day trial period in September of 1997, Townsend returned to her veterinarian to have the dog’s twice daily, 75 milligram (mg) prescription refilled. “George was better,” she says.
One night about 20 days later, Townsend was wakened by a “horrible scratching sound.” She found George crawling in the hall, unable to walk. The next morning, because she thought he had pulled a muscle, she gave him his usual dose of Rimadyl. That night he didn’t eat, and the following day began vomiting. Townsend took him to her veterinarian, who hospitalized the dog.
Despite aggressive treatment, George progressively disintegrated over six days at the vet clinic. Townsend visited her dog daily, but couldn’t stand to see him suffer any longer. “He couldn’t hold his head up. He’d had a blood-filled bowel movement and the whites of his eyes were yellow, his gums were yellow, his skin was yellow. I will never forget the look in his eyes – such hurt and despair,” describes Townsend. “I told them, ‘No more. I have to let him go.’ “
Townsend’s dog and others like him seemed rare exceptions. Over the next few years, thanks in part to an aggressive marketing campaign by Pfizer, Rimadyl became the drug of choice for 1 million, then 2.5 million arthritic dogs.
Center for Veterinary Medicine Asks for Changes in Carprofen Labeling
By December 1999, a CVM update noted that the CVM had received “a substantial number” of ADE reports for carprofen. In fact, a full 39 percent of the ADE reports in 1998 involved Rimadyl – some 3,626 cases – “considerably more than that received for other animal drugs.” Of these, 13 percent (about 471 cases) resulted in the death or euthanasia of the dogs.
Based on the early ADE reports for Rimadyl, CVM veterinarians met with Pfizer representatives and made several suggestions for changes to the product’s labeling and package inserts. Accordingly, Pfizer issued “Dear Doctor” letters to veterinarians, Animal Health Technical Bulletins detailing “Clinical Experience with Rimadyl,” and patient handouts. New information was inserted into the “Adverse Reaction” sections of the product label.
Because of the possibility for adverse reactions, Pfizer began to (and continues to) recommend that, prior to treatment, dogs be given a complete physical examination, including baseline blood tests. Owners are also advised that periodic monitoring should be done while their pet takes the drug.
One CVM veterinarian went so far, in a January 2000 article in DVM Magazine, to suggest that (in his own opinion) a complete blood profile be taken monthly as long as a dog is given Rimadyl. This is not the CVM’s present recommendation, however. “The labeling has recommendations for baseline testing for preexisting disease and periodic monitoring, which should be determined on a case-by-case basis,” says Dr. John D. Baker, Acting Team Leader in the CVM’s Division of Surveillance.
The use of Rimadyl continues to increase. Today, an estimated 4 million dogs in the United States are given the drug.
Adverse Drug Experience (ADE) Reports
Veterinary drugs are approved and regulated by the Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA CVM). The CVM reviews premarket studies of animal medications, approves drugs it deems safe, and oversees the drug makers’ reports of these studies, which are required in the product package inserts for consumers’ review.
However, not all problems with a drug will surface during premarket approval studies. This is due to several factors. First, trials for canine drugs usually have fewer subjects than do those for human drugs, sometimes 80 percent fewer. Also, many studies run for only a few days or weeks, less time than patients normally take the drug. And dogs in the test studies are typically healthy, young dogs, most under two years of age. Since osteoarthritis is a condition most often found in senior dogs – dogs whose bodies may not metabolize drugs as efficiently or who are more likely to have multiple health issues – drug trials conducted using young dogs may not accurately predict what problems might occur with older dogs.
To augment the information provided to consumers regarding the drugs’ premarket studies, the CVM also maintains a database of “adverse drug experience” (ADE) reports. These reports are provided voluntarily by veterinarians and even dog owners (“direct” reports), whose patients or pets have suffered an unexpected or unwanted side effect while taking a drug. If a drug maker is informed of an ADE by a vet or dog owner, federal law requires the company to forward the report to the CVM (“manufacturer reports”).
According to the CVM, the primary purpose for maintaining the ADE database is to provide an early warning or signaling system for adverse effects not detected during premarket testing of FDA-approved animal drugs and for monitoring the performance of drugs not approved for use in animals. The CVM is also clear about what the ADE data should not be used for: making direct correlations between the adverse experiences and any involved drugs. According to the introduction of each year’s ADE report,
“For any given ADE report, there is no certainty that the suspected drug caused the ADE. This is because veterinarians and animal owners are encouraged to report all suspected ADEs, not just those that are already known to be caused by the drug. The adverse event may have been related primarily to an underlying disease for which the drug was given, to other concomitant drugs, or may have occurred by chance at the same time the suspect drug was administered.”
Further, “Accumulated ADE reports should not be used to calculate incidence rates or estimates of drug risk.” In other words, the ADE reports are only “raw numbers,” with no conclusions drawn from the data. Reports may be influenced by a variety of factors including the prevalence of dogs using a drug, number of cases reported, time that has passed since introduction of the drug, and even public perception of a drug’s risks.
More NSAIDs for Dogs Enter the Market
Rimadyl wasn’t the only canine NSAID on the market for long. EtoGesic® is the NSAID entry of Fort Dodge Animal Health, a division of pharmaceutical giant Wyeth. The drug, etodolac, known as Lodine in its human application, was tested and approved for veterinary use in 1998. Fort Dodge claims the drug causes fewer adverse reactions than other NSAID drugs, and notes as a benefit that the drug is given only once a day. Today, according to Fort Dodge, about 1 million dogs take EtoGesic.
The events in the first years following the drug’s approval resembled Rimadyl’s. As the number of dogs who were given EtoGesic increased, so did ADE reports. As with other NSAIDs, its most frequently reported side effects are vomiting, loss of appetite, bloody diarrhea, lethargy, altered liver and kidney enzymes or function, dry eyes, convulsions, and death.
Within two years of the drug’s approval, Fort Dodge was advised to distribute “Dear Doctor” letters and revise the product’s labeling to strengthen the cautions and warnings to veterinarians and dog owners. The “Dear Doctor” letters asked veterinarians to consider baseline lab tests before prescribing EtoGesic and to recommend periodic monitoring tests. A Client Information Sheet was also provided for client handouts.
Despite its smaller market penetration (compared to Rimadyl), in 1999 the CVM listed EtoGesic as the third most commonly reported drug for adverse experiences, detailing 492 ADE reports.
Like Pfizer, Fort Dodge Animal Health continues its veterinarian and dog owner education efforts. Responding to our questions, the company released the following statement:
“The comments you listed including veterinary examinations for proper diagnosis and appropriate prescribing, blood tests for patients, and client education on the importance of early detection of side effects and ongoing veterinary monitoring, are all important issues to assure a beneficial experience with any nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID).
“Another consideration is to give the NSAID with food. Studies show EtoGesic is readily absorbed with or without food. Owners have found that providing it during feeding is convenient and may help reduce short-term GI upset post-administration. In a study evaluating the development of GI lesions by endoscopy, no significant difference between EtoGesic and the placebo was found over a 28-day dosing period.
“We also stress the importance of regular patient monitoring by a veterinarian and client education. Fort Dodge Animal Health provides education materials to both veterinary clinics and dog owners to provide them with the most current information on the safety, efficacy, and benefits of EtoGesic for the management of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis in dogs.”
New Hope or New Problems?
Now there is an even newer NSAID. In 2002, Novartis introduced Deramaxx™. Although the product’s initial CVM approval was for post-orthopedic-surgical pain, with treatment lasting five to seven days, expectations are that extra-label approval for treatment of chronic osteoarthritis will be complete by this summer. The drug, deracoxib, is nearly identical in chemical structure to Celebrex, a human arthritis drug in the new COX-2 class of NSAIDs.
Most NSAIDs inhibit the production of two forms of an enzyme called cyclooxy-genase (COX-1 and COX-2), which catalyzes the first two steps in the biosynthesis of agents that result in inflammation. According to their manufacturers, COX-2 drugs inhibit only the COX-2 enzyme, which appears to play a larger role in causing inflammation, and interfere less with the COX-1 enzyme, which appears to be more responsible for normal physiological functions such as maintenance of the gut mucosal barrier, blood clotting, and kidney function. Theoretically, by blocking only the COX-2 enzymes, the COX-1 enzymes are free to work as usual, resulting in fewer side effects such as gastric ulcers or renal failure.
Promising as this sounds, considering its short career, there have been a surprising number of ADE reports filed on Deramaxx. From its introduction (including approved and extra-label use) in August 2002 through mid-February 2003, the CVM received more than 100 ADE reports involving Deramaxx.
The adverse experiences are typical for NSAIDs: vomiting, inappetence, lethargy, and altered kidney and liver enzymes. According to a CVM coordinator, death is eighth on the list of side effects reported in the ADEs. If dogs who were euthanized are added to the total of dogs who died, it jumps to third on the list.
However, until estimates of the number of dogs who have taken the drug are tallied, it can’t be known what percentage of dogs have experienced side effects. Until then, Novartis can only observe the trends provided by the ADE reports.
According to Dr. Guy Tebbit, Vice President of Research and Development at Novartis Animal Health, the trends that its “pharmaco-vigilance” team has witnessed so far indicate that the drug is performing in line with its makers’ expectations. “What we have seen thus far has been very normal,” says Dr. Tebbit. “It’s tracking right along the lines for the information on the label that accompanies the drug.”
According to Dr. Tebbit, Novartis has no current plans for altering the label warnings or information sheets that accompany the drug, since, thus far, Deramaxx is behaving as expected and as already described on the current labels. “If we saw a trend in the ADEs that was different from what we expect, then we would have to sit down with the FDA and agree to new label language. But, so far, the trends we are seeing are very consistent with the existing labeling,” he says.
Dr. Tebbit adds, “We’re delighted with the drug and its performance. We have a lot of confidence in Deramaxx – confidence derived from our experience with it in our pre-market testing. We are very happy with the results.”
Understand the Drugs You’re Giving Your Dogs
The moral of the story is to make certain you – your dog’s guardian – completely understand the potential for benefits and risks of the medication prescribed by your veterinarian. In order to do this effectively, you need to read and understand the product label, or be thoroughly briefed by your veterinarian (who should read and understand the material).
Unfortunately, busy veterinarians may fail to give a new product more than a cursory look at its insert information. Most vets are happy to be able to offer effective products for keeping their patients comfortable. And unless one of their own patients suffers a drug-related complication, some veterinarians may not closely review the information listed for the products’ contraindications, precautions, and adverse reactions.
Even a curious, committed veterinarian or dog owner who reads all the manufacturers’ literature describing the veterinary drugs may be unable to successfully interpret the statistics regarding the drug’s premarket studies. Most of the pharmaceutical companies do not publish actual numbers of ADE reports, but express the cases in ratios – a practice (intentional or not) that minimizes the impact of the actual number of problems.
For example, Pfizer’s reporting (in its August 1999 Technical Bulletin on Rimadyl) that death was reported in 1.8 cases per 10,000 dogs treated with Rimadyl in 1997. In the same report, the company claimed Rimadyl had been (at that time) prescribed for more than 2.5 million canine patients. If the 1997 ratio held, one could extrapolate that as many as 450 of those 2.5 million dogs could have been expected to die as a result of being given Rimadyl.
The CVM, at least, uses actual numbers, not ratios, when expressing the ADEs for veterinary drugs. The CVM ADE reports on carprofen (Rimadyl) break out 371 canine deaths in 1999, 470 in 2000, and 537 in 2001. Its ADE reports on etodolac (EtoGesic) for 1998 through 2001 indicate that 1,224 cases were reviewed and 135 dogs died.
NSAIDs Can Bring Tragedy for Dogs
Given that death is a potential result of NSAID use, dog owners and veterinarians alike should pay close attention to the warnings and suggestions for these and any other drug products. However, for a number of reasons, many dog owners fail to hear this information.
Veterinarians must accept some of the blame. With millions of dogs experiencing relief from the drugs, and with side effects occurring in only a small percentage of these patients, some veterinarians fail to heed the warnings or take them seriously enough to discuss them at length with their clients. Some are lax about insisting on periodic lab tests that can indicate whether problems are beginning to develop.
“Most owners are not told what the side effects are and their pets are not monitored with blood and urine tests,” alleges Shawn Messonier, DVM, owner of the Paws and Claws Animal Hospital in Plano, Texas, and author of The Arthritis Solution for Dogs.
But owners should also be held responsible for failing to practice due diligence before medicating their pets. Every drug – and every herb, homeopathic remedy, nutraceutical supplement, etc. – can cause unwanted or unexpected side effects, and owners need to educate themselves about the potential for harm before blindly accepting any treatment for their dogs.
Possible Side Effects of NSAIDs
If your dog displays any of these signs while taking any NSAID, discontinue the drug’s use immediately and get your dog to the veterinarian for tests. The majority of patients with drug-related adverse reactions recover when the side effects are recognized quickly, the drug use is discontinued immediately, and veterinary care is initiated.
■ Gastrointestinal problems: Signs include vomiting, loss of appetite, abnormal stools (especially bloody or black diarrhea)
■ Liver abnormalities: Signs include vomiting; lack of appetite; yellowing of the gums, skin, or whites of eyes; and lethargy. Lab tests reveal elevated serum bilirubin and/ or liver enzymes, and/or abnormal liver function tests. (Note: One-third of hepatic-related reports for Rimadyl involved Labrador Retrievers)
■ Urinary abnormalities: Signs include urinary incontinence and increased water consumption. Lab tests reveal electrolyte and fluid imbalances; renal failure may occur
■ Hematological abnormalities: Signs include pale gums. Lab tests reveal anemia (below-normal concentration of platelets in the blood), hemolytic anemia (anemia resulting from destruction of platelets in the blood), thrombocytopenia (abnormally small number of platelets in the blood), prolonged bleeding time. (Rimadyl is not recommended for dogs with bleeding disorders, especially von Willebrand’s disease. NSAIDs should be used only with extreme care in breeds that are at risk for von Willebrand’s disease, such as Scottish Terriers and Dobermans.)
■ Behavioral abnormalities: Signs include lethargy, hyperactivity, restlessness, aggressiveness
■ Neurological abnormalities: Signs include incoordination, seizure, paralysis
■ Dermatological abnormalities:Signs include pruritis (itching), increased shedding, alopecia (baldness), pyotraumatic moist dermatitis (hot spots), inflammation of the subcutaneous layer of connective tissue and fat in the abdominal wall (panniculitis) or blood vessels (vasculitis)
Stop Use Immediately If Side Effects Occur
When dogs are given an NSAID to relieve painful conditions such as arthritis or even an acute injury, it can be difficult to ascertain whether some of the dog’s abnormal behavior is due to the original condition or a side effect of the drug. But it’s critical to observe the dog carefully to determine the difference.
Lewis Fadale, of Highland, Michigan, learned the hard way. Oslo, his 12- year-old Norwegian Elkhound “pulled his shoulder” from barreling downstairs and sliding across a tile floor. Although Fadale asked his veterinarian for Rimadyl, a drug that Oslo had safely taken before for a similar condition, his veterinarian prescribed Deramaxx. “He told me it was the new drug of choice and said there were minimal side effects,” Fadale said.
After two weeks, Fadale saw no appreciable improvement in Oslo’s condition, and noticed that Oslo was stumbling, slipping, and having trouble getting up. Fadale stopped the drug and took Oslo back to the vet. Tests indicated that the Elkhound’s blood urea nitrogen (BUN) and creatinine were elevated, indicating kidney failure. Two months earlier there had been no indication of a preexisting problem when levels were normal in preoperative testing for teeth cleaning. Oslo was placed on continuous IV solutions in an attempt to stabilize him, but after 48 hours, rising levels of enzymes indicated that kidney failure was still progressing.
“He was howling in pain. The vet told me his chance of recovery was so slim that he didn’t think it was worth putting him through any more,” said Fadale, “I chose to spare Oslo any further suffering.”
Because Fadale was unaware that some of the side effects of NSAIDs could be so similar to the signs of his dog’s original problem (including lethargy and ataxia), he failed to discontinue the drug’s use early enough to save his dog. “If I had known there could be serious, adverse reactions,” he says, “I would have paid closer attention and stopped the drug earlier.”
Reducing the Risks of NSAID Toxicity for Your Dog
My husband and I had heard stories about NSAID-related deaths and health complications when we administered Rimadyl to our rescued Elkhound, Shadow, and knew there was a possibility that she could suffer side effects if she stayed on the drug. Yet, without Rimadyl, the quality of her life was poor. We thought we made the right decision. In retrospect, had we been armed with more information, we could have made different choices about her treatment plan.
If, like Shadow, your dog could benefit from treatment with one of these drugs, take the following steps to reduce their risk:
• Get a proper diagnosis. Not all lameness is caused by arthritis. Have your dog evaluated, with x-rays, to rule out injury, bone cancer, or other causes of joint disease.
• Have laboratory tests done prior to treatment. The labels of all canine NSAIDs indicate that blood tests are required for safe prescribing. A blood and urine profile is needed to check your dog’s hepatic, renal, gastrointestinal, cardiovascular, and pancreatic function. That’s because you must . . .
• Give NSAIDs only to healthy dogs. Dogs with bleeding disorders, or kidney, liver, and/or cardiac disease are not good candidates for NSAID therapy. Extreme caution should be taken with dogs who have even borderline high-normal liver enzymes, or chronic disease, such as mild kidney disease – conditions that are common in older dogs, who are more susceptible to problems with these drugs.
• Monitor liver and kidney enzymes during treatment. Your veterinarian should run periodic blood tests to make certain that no problems develop. How often depends on the health of your pet, possibly every three, four, or six months.
• Give NSAIDs with a meal. This can reduce the chance of stomach upset.
• Be cautious with concurrent drug use. Some drugs, like those used to treat epilepsy or certain anesthetics, may not be compatible with NSAIDs. Because of the potential to cause gastrointestinal ulcers, the combined use of aspirin, multiple NSAIDs, or steroids is not advised. Ask your veterinarian to advise you as to which drug combinations are safe and which are not.
• We’ll say it again: Read the drug’s client information sheet. If you are not handed one when you receive your dog’s prescribed drug, ask for it. Some veterinary practices buy the drugs in bulk and repackage them when dispensing. That’s okay, but they should also make a copy of the original product package insert for you.
• Familiarize yourself with signs of all the possible adverse reactions to NSAIDs. If your dog exhibits any one of these signs, discontinue the drug’s use and seek veterinary care immediately.
• Discuss the risks, benefits, and alternatives to NSAID use with your veterinarian. If your vet doesn’t take time to discuss your concerns, or brushes them off without answering, find another vet.
Do NOT Switch NSAIDs Quickly
NSAIDs should not be administered with corticosteroids or other NSAIDs. (Note: This includes aspirin, which is also an NSAID, whether it is plain, buffered, or enteric coated.) If a dog owner wants to try a different NSAID, she should discontinue using the first drug for at least two weeks before administering the second drug. Serious health complications can arise if this minimal time frame is not observed.
Jeff Levine periodically gave his Golden Retriever, Rudy, EtoGesic to prevent occasional pain related to the surgery Rudy had undergone to treat his hip dysplasia. Levine also gave Rudy the drug sometimes prior to hiking.
When Rudy stepped in a hole and twisted his leg on a hike, Levine carried him out of the woods and to the veterinarian’s office. Although the leg appeared better when they arrived, the vet prescribed Deramaxx. “I told the vet that Rudy had taken an EtoGesic that morning,” says Levine, but the veterinarian apparently was unaware that a complication could occur from the administration of the two drugs so close in time.
As instructed, Levine gave Rudy Deramaxx that evening. By the next morning, the Retriever’s leg was better, but he was groggy and lethargic, and Levine decided not to give the dog any more of either drug. During the next night, Rudy insisted on going outside, where he suffered black diarrhea and dry retching.
Blood tests at the clinic in the morning indicated that Rudy was hemorrhaging and a transfusion was required to save his life. Over the next few weeks the dog had multiple tests. An endoscopy revealed that he had over 150 ulcerations in his stomach. Rudy also had developed a platelet aggregation (clotting) disorder. He was given multiple medications and transfusions, but failed to recover. The veterinarian informed Levine that his dog would likely bleed to death, and suggested he consider euthanizing the dog.
“Rudy couldn’t walk anymore. He wasn’t eating or drinking. His gums and eyes were grey,” said Levine, “He was miserable, so I told the vet it was time.”
Alternatives to NSAID Therapy
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs are not the only treatments for arthritis. If your dog suffers from any condition that would contraindicate NSAID use – such as less-thanperfect cardiac, hepatic, or renal function; a bleeding disorder; concurrent use of corticosteroids or diuretics; or a previous exhibition of hypersensitivity to NSAIDs – use the following alternatives. (Heck, use them anyway!)
Weight loss. The first and possibly most overlooked treatment for arthritic dogs is to control their weight. Extra pounds add extra stress to inflamed joints.
Nutritional supplements. Glycosaminoglycan (GAG) supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin help many arthritic dogs, although few clinical studies have been conducted to support the overwhelming anecdotal evidence offered by thousands of dog owners.
Methyl-sulfonylmethane (MSM) is often used alone or in combination with GAG supplements as a pain reliever, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory.
“I like the nutritional approach,” says Dr. Messonier, “because you give the joint nutrition at the same time so it’s not just trying to heal on its own.” He also explained that nutritional therapy is affordable and doesn’t require frequent trips to a clinic.
Complementary therapies. Periodic acupuncture treatments, magnetic therapy, herbs, or homeopathic remedies may also relieve symptoms of pain and stiffness related to your dog’s arthritic conditions. Find an experienced holistic veterinarian who can offer complementary therapies through the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association.
Reduced dosing. “It’s advertised how NSAIDs can help a dog walk normally again,” says Shawn Messonier, DVM, author of The Arthritis Solution for Dogs, “but they are not meant to be on them for life.”
Dr. Messonier prefers to use NSAIDs for only five to seven days to relieve an exacerbation of symptoms. If a pet’s discomfort is severe he may prescribe them for 30 to 60 days until other therapies have a chance to work. And the dose will be the minimum possible. “Some pets can’t tolerate the recommended per pound dosage,” he says.
Are NSAIDs Ever A Viable Choice?
Veterinarians at the CVM regard canine NSAIDs to be safe and effective as long as consumers take precautions and pay attention to the labels and insert warnings. The CVM’s 1999 “Update on Rimadyl” goes so far as to say that NSAID therapy should not be considered as an elective therapeutic choice, but rather the “primary therapy available for maintaining an acceptable standard of life due to the long-term debilitating effects of osteoarthritis.”
Most veterinarians interviewed about NSAIDs report seeing improvement in their patients. Many state that they have not seen cases of adverse reactions to the drugs in their clinics, and believe that the risks are worth taking for many dogs.
“I have seen hundreds of dogs who would have been euthanized without these drugs,” says Tammy Smith, DVM, of the Colonial Animal Hospital in Belpre, Ohio.
Even one owner whose dog died after being given NSAID therapy recognizes the drugs can be helpful. Elsa Norton, of Saugerties, New York, said her veterinarian thought that her geriatric dog’s health problems leading up to his death “possibly” may have been triggered by NSAID use.
Norton says she wishes she made a different choice regarding her dog’s treatment, but adds, “Rimadyl has been a miracle drug for some dogs and I’m grateful that those animals have been helped. If I had it to do over, I would have started with alternative treatments. Anyone considering (NSAIDs) should research these alternatives first. But, if your animal is in such pain that the other option is euthanasia, then by all means try the medication.”
NSAIDs can be effective tools in relieving the pain and stiffness of arthritis when used properly and measures are taken to prevent problems. Weigh the benefits against the risks – and don’t forget there are effective alternatives available.
NSAIDS FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW
1. If your dog seems arthritic, schedule a full examination and consultation with your vet.
2. Try some of the alternatives to using NSAIDs to reduce your dog’s discomfort and manage his condition.
3. Prior to trying any NSAID, insist on complete lab tests to establish that your dog has good liver function and normal biochemistry. Without these, NSAIDs may be dangerous to your dog.
4. Do not use more than one NSAID at the same time. Do not switch from one NSAID to another without a gap of at least two drug-free weeks.
5. At the first sign of ANY health or behavior abnormality, discontinue NSAID use immediately and get more blood tests.
Lexiann Grant is a member of the Dog Writers Association of America and an eight-time recipient of the Maxwell Medallion for excellence in dog writing. She and her husband live in southeastern Ohio with their four dogs and two cats.
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Every cloud has a silver lining, even clouds of war and pestilence. Here’s an example. We can thank the Vietnam War and a malaria plague for the development of an herbal extract that may be your dog’s best new treatment for cancer. Thirty years ago, mosquitoes carrying malaria parasites bred in rain water that collected in underground tunnels built by the army of North Vietnam.
When that country lost more soldiers to malaria than to military weapons, it turned to China for help. Soon China’s top scientists were analyzing the problem from every perspective. When researchers at the Chinese Institute of Material Medicine discovered a region of China that did not have malaria, they found that its people drank a decoction (simmered tea) of Artemesia annua L. at the first sign of malarial symptoms. Artemesia annua L. is known as Qinghao in China and as sweet wormwood, annual wormwood, or sweet Annie in the West. (Its cousin Artemesia absinthium, or perennial wormwood, is an ingredient in herbal worming products for dogs and people.) In 1972, Chinese scientists isolated four chemical compounds in Artemesia annua: the natural compound artemisinin and three synthetic or semisynthetic compounds: artesunate, artemether, and arteether. Artemisinin became North Vietnam’s drug of choice for malaria. It has since become popular throughout Southeast Asia and Africa, where malaria is resistant to nearly all antimalarial drugs, including chloroquine, quinine, mefloquine, and Fansidar. So far, malaria has not developed resistance to artemisinin. In 1993, a University of Michigan researcher discovered the biochemical mechanism that makes artemisinin effective. Dr. Steven R. Meshnick, a parasitologist at the University of Michigan’s School of Public Health, found that the malaria parasite survives in its host by consuming approximately 25 percent of the hemoglobin in the host’s red blood cells. However, it does not metabolize the heme (iron) in the hemoglobin. Instead, it stores the iron in the form of a polymer, called hemozoin, inside a food vacuole. “We discovered that when artemisinin comes into contact with the iron in the hemozoin,” reports Dr. Meshnick, “the iron converts the artemisinin into a toxic chemical, releasing a free radical that destroys the parasite.” In Dr. Meshnick’s clinical study of 638 malarial patients in Vietnam, artemisinin eliminated 98 percent of malarial parasites within 24 hours and did so without significant side effects. “The parasite reappeared in only 10 to 23 percent of the group that took artemisinin for 5 to 10 days,” Dr. Meshnick says. “It may well be that the reappearance of the disease was due to a new infection rather than a flare-up of the prior one.” Artemisinin was equally effective against both the falciparum and vivax strains of malaria. Cancer needs iron, too Artemisinin’s reaction to iron molecules interested research professors Henry Lai, Ph.D., and Narendra Singh, MBBS, at the University of Washington in Seattle because cancer cells, like malaria parasites, collect and store iron. “Cancer cells need extra iron to replicate DNA when they divide,” explains Professor Lai. “As a result, cancer cells have a much higher concentration of iron than normal cells. When we began to understand how artemisinin works, I wondered if we could use that knowledge to target cancer cells.” In research published in 1995 in the journal Cancer Letters and in the November 2001 journal Life Sciences, Professors Lai and Singh found that artemisinin killed all of the human leukemia and breast cancer cells in a test tube within 8 to 16 hours while leaving nearly all of the normal cells unharmed. Artemisinin has been shown in test tube studies to be most effective against leukemia and colon cancer. Preliminary tests suggest that artemisinin will be effective against melanoma, breast, ovarian, prostate, renal, and central nervous system cancers such as glioblastoma and neuroblastoma. Working with veterinarians In 1999, Professors Lai and Singh pioneered canine research on artemisinin when, in collaboration with Tejinder Sodhi, DVM, of the Animal Hospital of Lynnwood in Lynnwood, Washington, they treated a male Golden Retriever with acute lameness of the right front leg. “The xray showed exostosis below the humeral neck with general sunburst osteolytic appearance,” reported Dr. Sodhi. “Fine-needle aspirate showed cells resembling osteoblasts and satisfied the criteria of malignancy.” Despite a very low dose of artemisinin and only 10 days of treatment (artemisinin was then expensive and the project lacked funding to buy more), the dog recovered within a week, gaining weight and walking normally, with xrays taken on the tenth day showing signs of bone remodeling. In another case, a seven-year-old male Basset Hound was diagnosed with lymphosarcoma of the lymph nodes. After three five-day treatments separated by intervals of three to five days, the diameter of the left and right linguinal and submandibular lymph nodes was reduced to half. Both dogs recovered without further treatment. As this article goes to press, the Washington Cancer Institute Department of Orthopedic Oncology at Georgetown University Medical Center, and a fellowship-trained veterinary surgical oncologist in Washington, DC, are collaborating on a project to determine whether artemisinin is an effective compound in the treatment of canine osteosarcoma. “We are performing in vitro or laboratory assays, the results of which will be determined by June 2003,” says Senior Clinical Researcher Kristen Kellar-Graney at the Washington Cancer Institute. “If these results prove favorable, it is our intention to perform a small, double-blinded, randomized study with pet canines who are not eligible for other forms of conventional treatment or pets whose owners are not interested in or cannot afford more conventional methods of treatment.” Using artemisinin The recommended human dose is approximately 1 milligram (mg) artemisinin per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of body weight twice per day. The dose recommended for most dogs is 50 mg or 100 mg twice per day for at least one month, continued for up to 6 to 12 months at a time.
Vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, pancreatic enzymes, and other supplements used in holistic cancer therapies are compatible with artemisinin, though some practitioners recommend separating artemisinin and high doses of vitamin C by at least three hours. Some healthcare practitioners recommend giving cod liver oil or other fat with artemisinin to improve its assimilation, but Professor Lai says that this is not necessary. Artemisinin should not be combined with radiation therapy because radiation treatments release iron stored in cancer cells to surrounding tissue. For best results, patients are encouraged to wait until at least two months after their last radiation treatment before beginning artemisinin. However, artemisinin is compatible with chemotherapy. In a study published last year, German researcher T. Efferth, Ph.D., tested artemisinin in combination with 22 chemotherapy drugs and found that artemisinin enhanced the drugs’ effectiveness. When artemisinin is used in combination with chemotherapy, it should be taken several hours after the chemotherapy treatment ends. When taken in combination with chemotherapy, artemisinin does not alleviate chemotherapy’s side effects. Cancer case history: Gus In the spring of 2002, Karen and Greg Moore of Bar Harbor, Maine, noticed that Gus, their seven-year-old German Shepherd Dog, was drinking large quantities of water and urinating more than usual. “He was having some accidents in the house,” Karen Moore recalls, “and he had never done that before. We went to the veterinarian, but it took quite a while to find out what the problem was. Only one of Gus’s lab tests showed an unusual result, and that was his calcium level, which was extremely high. At the end of April, our vet referred us to a clinic in Bath, Maine, where Gus underwent ultrasound and other tests.” The examination revealed apocrine gland adenocarcinoma, an anal gland tumor, with lymph node involvement. “The mass was then about the size of a plum,” says Moore, “and they could see that it had metastasized. The diagnosis was devastating. They basically had him dead and buried. They told us it was inoperable because it had already spread to the lymph nodes, there was nothing they could do, and he would die within a few weeks. They said we could try chemotherapy, but we would be fighting a very aggressive tumor, so it probably wouldn’t buy much time.” The Moores decided in favor of chemotherapy, and in May, Gus received his first of five treatments. “He couldn’t have more than that,” she says, “because they didn’t want it to affect his organs. In August, he had his final treatment, and that was that. He was still hanging in there. Now we were playing a wait-and-see game.” Three months later, while talking with the owner of a Bar Harbor health food store, Moore mentioned her dog. “I said I wished we could do something more for him,” she says. “That’s when the owner told me about the research of Dr. Henry Lai at the University of Washington. He gave me an e-mail address, and that’s how I got in touch with Holley Pharmaceuticals, the company that imports the artemisinin Gus takes.” On December 7, Gus received his first dose of artemisinin. “He’s taking 100 mg twice a day,” says Moore. “It’s been only three months so far, but we’ve been amazed at the improvements we see. His energy level is high, and his eyes are as clear as can be. They had gotten very foggy and unhealthy looking, but now they’re not cloudy at all. His calcium level went back to normal. The tumor grew after the chemotherapy treatments were stopped, but it hasn’t grown since we started the artemisinin. Gus is active, he plays ball, and he hikes with us. We really thought he would be slowing down by now. We never thought he would last this long or this well.” If Gus maintains his improved condition, Moore plans to continue his current dose of artemisinin. “On the protocol we’re following,” she says, “the dog takes it for up to a year and then you begin a weaning process and discontinue the treatment. Gus goes to the vet every six to eight weeks for checkups, so his condition is being monitored. It’s reassuring to have the vet keep an eye on him to be sure he’s doing well. Gus is now eight years old and thriving, which is something we never expected.” Cancer case history: Zoe Zoe, a Great Pyrenees, recently moved with Shirley and Mike Driggs to Lake Havasu City, Arizona. On April 19, 2002, when she was five and a half years old and they lived in Indiana, Zoe was diagnosed with osteo-sarcoma in her right front leg. “We took her to the vet because she was limping,” says Shirley Driggs. “The diagnosis was terrible news because bone cancer spreads really fast. Most dogs die within a month or two.” Driggs considered conventional treatments, including amputation, chemotherapy, and radiation. “From everything I could find about these options,” she says, “they only give dogs five or six more months of life, and the treatments’ side effects are so awful, the quality of that life is questionable at best. My mother died of bone cancer, so I’ve seen this disease up close. There was no way I could put Zoe through any of the conventional therapies.” Instead, she searched the Internet to learn everything she could about the disease. “On page after page and site after site,” she says, “I hit a message board that discussed artemisinin. Further searches led me to Dr. Lai. I called him up and discussed the herb, and he gave me some background information. I later e-mailed Dr. Lai with Zoe’s weight and medical background, and he advised me of the dosage he felt was suitable for her.” When Driggs returned to Zoe’s veterinarian with this information, he looked skeptical but said he had no problem with her trying it. “Since I had no other course of action,” she says, “and I was told this treatment had no adverse side effects, I thought, why not?!” Zoe’s response to artemisinin was immediate and dramatic. “We started her on 50 mg twice a day,” says Driggs, “and she literally quit limping on the second day. She ran, jumped, barked, played, fought with the other dogs, and had a wonderful time. You would never know she had bone cancer.” Zoe continued to be symptom-free for the next eight months. In fact, a radiograph taken last October showed that her bone tumor had begun to shrink. Two veterinarians examined her xrays and confirmed this. “When bone cancer metastasizes, it usually spreads to the lungs,” says Driggs, “and all of Zoe’s lung xrays, including one taken in February 2003, show that her lungs are completely clear. This has really amazed her doctors.” But in January 2003, just after the move to Arizona, Zoe’s limp came back. “We gave her a prescription anti-inflammatory,” says Driggs, “because we don’t want her to be in pain, but we knew this was a serious symptom.” Driggs contacted Dr. Lai, who recommended that they either stop the artemisinin for seven days and then continue at the same 50-mg dose twice a day, or increase the dose to 100 mg twice per day. They increased the artemisinin. On March 14, Driggs was petting Zoe when she noticed a hard, grape-sized lump under the dog’s left armpit. “We went straight to our veterinarian, who explained that what I found was a lymph node and that the cancer had spread,” explains Driggs. “But Zoe is still looking good. She is still eating well, still has her appetite, still comes outside, and still enjoys life. We’ll just take one day at a time.” In the meantime, Driggs says she is thoroughly satisfied with her experience using the artemisinin for Zoe’s cancer. “I have no regrets about having used it,” she says. “When your dog is diagnosed with bone cancer and you reject all conventional treatment, the odds are you won’t have more than a few weeks together. Instead of declining, Zoe has had a wonderful year. She may be living on borrowed time, but her borrowed time has stretched out considerably, and every day has been a blessing.”
1. Be the trainer when you are with your dog more often than you are the trainee.
2. Control the “good stuff” and generously share it with your dog when he offers polite behaviors.
3. Teach your dog that he needs to “Say please” in order to get the good stuff.
4. Prevent him from being rewarded for undesirable behaviors to avoid spoiling.
When a new client calls me seeking a private consultation, I often hear a litany of canine woes that includes: barking, chewing, digging, counter surfing, house soiling, jumping up, biting, running away, and other destructive and inappropriate behaviors. With amazing consistency, clients conclude by confessing that they allow their dogs on the furniture and feed them people food; then sheepishly claim, “I guess I’ve spoiled him.” I always respond with, “My dogs are allowed on the furniture and I feed them people food. If allowing dogs on the bed and feeding them human food equals spoiling, then I passionately believe that dogs should be spoiled.”
Contrary to what you may have read in some dog training books, letting your dog get on the sofa and feeding him real food does not mean he will turn into a raving dominant maniac-dog, nor does it teach him to drool at your dinner table. It simply means that you have made a conscious decision to grant him furniture privileges and provide him with a diet that goes beyond processed kibble. These deliberate choices on your part do not give rise to behavior problems. Spoiling a dog in a manner that leads to undesirable behaviors is something else entirely.
In her excellent new book, Click for Joy, author and clicker trainer Melissa Alexander says, “Spoiling occurs when you give something for nothing.”
I would add to her definition that spoiling also occurs when you allow behaviors to be rewarded that you will sooner or later come to regret. While a client who calls me about behavior problems may indeed have “spoiled” her dog, the problems are far more likely a result of giving a dog the opportunity to practice and be rewarded for inappropriate behavior than they are a result of furniture privileges and dietary selections.
Who Controls the Goods?
Whenever you are with your dog, one of you is training the other. The healthiest dog/human relationships generally occur when the human is the trainer and the dog the trainee the vast majority of the time. This means that the human controls most of the “good stuff” in the dog’s life, and decides when, where, and how the dog gets it. The dog can earn the good stuff by doing things that please the human.
Important note: The dog is not intrinsically trying to please the human. The dog is just doing whatever he needs to do to get the good stuff and thereby please himself. It is incidental to him that he pleases his human in the process.
I would identify a “spoiled” dog as one who is allowed to be the trainer more often than he is the trainee, when the resulting behaviors are damaging to the relationship. The spoiled dog does things that don’t please his human and gets the good stuff anyway.
This is the dog who “demand-barks” to go out, come back in, get a treat or a toy – and the human gives him what he wants because she knows the barking will just escalate if she doesn’t.
It’s the dog who digs at his owner’s arm for attention – and gets it. It’s the dog who jumps up on the bed next to the wife and growls at the husband when he tries to get in his side (especially if the husband then goes and sleeps on the sofa).
It’s the dog who wakes up at 3:00 a.m., barks to go out – even though he is a healthy adult dog well able to “hold it” all night – and then whines and barks in his crate when he comes back in until his humans let him out to spend the rest of the night in the bed with them. It’s the dog who drags his protesting owner around the block at the end of the leash, accosting every human, peeing on every bush, and eating every bit of garbage he can find along the way. You get the idea.
Get Your Dog to Say Please
You may have a new dog or pup and are determined not to spoil her. Or perhaps you are realizing that you have already made some mistakes and now have a dog who is slightly or seriously spoiled. In any case, a “Say please” program is a great way to prevent or overcome the challenges of living with a spoiled dog.
Also known as “Nothing in Life Is Free” or “No Free Lunch,” a “Say please” program teaches your dog that she must ask for good stuff – politely – by performing a desirable behavior, rather than by demanding – and getting – what she wants. “Sit” is the most versatile “Say please” behavior, and by far the easiest to install. Most dogs can learn to offer a sit in a few minutes or less (see “Sit Happens,” WDJ February 2001).
As soon as your dog learns that sitting is a very rewardable behavior, it’s a simple matter to wait for her to sit before bestowing good stuff on her. Breakfast time? Hold up her food dish and wait for her to sit; that’s a “Say please” behavior. Time for a walk? Sit gets you to attach the leash. Want to go out? Sitting politely makes the door open. Want to be petted? Dogs who sit get pets, treats, and attention.
You may be tempted to ask for the sit, but don’t! Instead, use a little body language if necessary; hold a treat, the food bowl, or your hand, up near your chest – and wait until she offers the sit of her own accord. Then work quickly to “fade” (progressively eliminate) the treat and body language. You want your dog to realize that she has to initiate the request for the good stuff.
One of the goals of positive reinforcement training is to create dogs who learn to control their own behavior, so that you don’t have to constantly tell them what to do. If you must usually tell your dog to sit, she won’t learn to “Say please” without being asked, and she won’t generalize her polite “Say please” behavior to other people and other situations.
Sit is not your only “Say please” option. It doesn’t matter so much what you ask her to do. What matters is that she learns she has to earn the good stuff, it doesn’t just happen gratuitously. You can use any desirable behavior that your dog can do easily – or a variety of behaviors in a variety of situations. Our Scottie, Dubhy, used to grumble at me from my office doorway when he wanted to go outside. I found this a little pushy and annoying, so I taught him to “Say please,” by coming into the office and lying quietly at my feet. Tucker, our cattle dog mix, does a lovely “Say please” play bow when he asks to go outside. And both of them “Say please” again by sitting politely at the door when I go to let them out.
Be Firm About It
“Sounds simple,” you may say, “but when I pick up my leash my dog Bonkers leaps and cavorts about, barks at the top of her lungs, and body-slams me. She’s not going to offer a sit!”
At this point Bonkers thinks that cavorting is what causes the door to open. It’s been working for a long time, so why wouldn’t she think that? It is certainly more challenging to reprogram an already-established undesirable behavior than it is to install the desirable one from the start, but it’s not impossible.
You can make it easier by separating the environmental cues that tell her it’s “walk-time.” Perhaps you always keep the leash on the hook by the front door and put it on her collar in the entryway when you take her for her daily walk at 5:30 pm after you get home from work. Try moving the leash to the kitchen drawer. At 7:00 in the morning on a day when you don’t have to rush off to work or school, take the leash out of the drawer and, using your “Sit” body language, help her to “Say please.” If she leaps and cavorts about uncontrollably, cheerfully say “Too bad!” set the leash on the counter and go about your morning kitchen business.
As soon as she calms down, pick up the leash again and try for another “Say please.” Every time she revs up, say “Too bad!” and set the leash down. Every time she calms down, restart the leash process. This teaches her that cavorting makes the leash go away, and that sitting makes the leash happen. You will probably be surprised by how quickly she figures it out. This is the opposite of what she learned in the past, so be patient.
As soon as she will stay reasonably calm when you pick up the leash, encourage her to sit so you can attach it to her collar. If she leaps up again when you start to clip it on, give her another cheerful “Too bad!” and set the leash down again. When she will remain sitting calmly as you attach the leash, take her to a different door from the one you usually exit through with her, and help her “Say please” at the door to make the door open. Take her out for at least a short walk as a reward.
Feel free to take breaks during the reprogramming process. Training sessions are generally most productive if they last no more than 10-15 minutes at a stretch. Some dogs (and humans!) do best with sessions that last 5 minutes or less. Try to take your breaks following one or more successes, rather than waiting until you or Bonkers are so frustrated you can’t take any more. If you find yourself getting frustrated, ask Bonkers to do something that she loves and does really well, and take a break after that.
Bonkers may need several short sessions to understand that she needs to sit and stay sitting in order to get the good stuff (leash and walk), or she may get it in one session. When she will reliably sit for you in the kitchen for the leash and at the alternate door to make it open, continue to put the leash on in the kitchen, but return to using the door that you normally use to take her out, at her regularly scheduled walk time. When that part of the walk routine is reprogrammed, take the leash out of the kitchen drawer, but walk to the entryway and clip it on her collar – after she does a polite “Say please” sit, of course. When she can do that calmly, hang the leash on its old hook by the door, and you’re back in business!
The Art of Dog Training
Most “spoiled” behaviors can be addressed by creating a reprogramming protocol similar to the one described above that teaches your dog to “Say please” in order to get whatever the good stuff is that she wants at the moment. Keep in mind, however, that many dogs will exhibit a behavior known as an “extinction burst,” which is akin to the temper tantrum that a toddler might throw when she doesn’t get her way.
For example, let’s say your dog is in the habit of barking at you to get you to let her outside. In your new reprogramming mode, you carefully ignore her when she barks by turning away from her, so that she is no longer rewarded for this undesirable behavior. Your dog knows that barking has gotten her what she wants in the past, and she can’t figure out why, all of a sudden, it’s not working now. So she tries harder, sure that if she just tries hard, loud, and long enough, it will work again.
Hearing the increased intensity and volume in the dog’s voice, you may become convinced that the new training program isn’t working and, tired of listening to the racket, open the door and let the dog out. You have just rewarded your dog’s increased level of barking, reinforcing “louder and longer” and making it that much more difficult to reprogram the barking behavior.
Simply ignoring the dog’s previously successful behavior leaves her frustrated and noisy, and stresses you both until you give in to her. This is where the “Say please” program is so valuable. Teaching her an alternative successful behavior gives her something else to do – an acceptable way to make good stuff happen. However, if you respond to her barking by asking her to sit and then letting her out, you are simply teaching a “behavior chain” of, “I bark, I sit, and then the door opens.” In order to avoid this dilemma, you must blend the science of behavior with the art of training.
Think About It
We tend to ignore our dogs when they are being polite, and pay attention to them when they are rude. That’s how they get to be spoiled in the first place – they learn that they have to be pushy to get what they want. If you are working to unspoil your dog or to prevent spoiling, you must keep your eyes open, watch for the polite “Say please” behavior to happen, and reward it a lot. When your dog does “Say please,” sometimes reward her with a pat on the head or a scratch behind the ear, sometimes with a yummy treat or a game of fetch, and sometimes by letting her out or giving her whatever other good stuff she politely asks for.
However, this doesn’t mean she always gets what she wants; the art of training is in finding the balance between controlling the good stuff and sharing it with your canine pal on your terms. In time, the new behaviors will be solidly programmed and you can reduce the rate of positive reinforcement without losing the new behaviors.
A “Say please” program won’t fix all behavior problems. The dog who doesn’t let hubby on the bed can certainly benefit from learning to “Say please,” but his owners may also need the assistance of a trainer/behaviorist to resolve the bed guarding. It will, without a doubt prevent a lot of problems from ever occurring in the first place, and even implemented after-the-fact, can help make the trainer/behaviorist’s job easier with the more challenging behavior problems.
If your dog doesn’t know how to “Say please,” perhaps it’s time to teach him. Then you can say, “Spoiled? Not my dog,” as he sits politely on the sofa next to you, smiling and eating pieces of carrot and chicken.
Pat Miller, WDJ’s Training Editor, is also a freelance author and Certified Pet Dog Trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. She is the president of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, and published her first book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, in 2002.
There are a wide variety of dog chews and treats to keep your dog satisfied, but which ones are healthy and safe? Credit: Emilija Manevska | Getty Images
[Updated June 17, 2016]
Walk down the right aisle in any pet supply store and you can’t miss them: row upon row, bin upon bin of preserved and processed animal parts, all intended for your dog’s chewing pleasure.
First, there are the rawhide products – perhaps the least visually objectionable stuff on display. Most pet stores carry many varieties of rawhide chews, including flat discs, round rolls, twisted and braided chews, and fanciful items such as rawhide footballs and food bowls.
Nearby you’ll likely find the knackery wares: cattle hooves, bones, tendons, and penises, and pig ears and snouts – items that can make even the most seasoned carnivore cringe, though they may delight your dog.
Are these animal-based chews, even the ones labeled “all-natural,” truly safe for your canine companion?
The short answer: It depends.
What’s an “All-Natural,” Dog Chew Anyway?
The phrase “all-natural” shouldn’t be construed as either healthy or true. The term actually has no legal or regulatory definition, according to the Food and Drug Administration. Labeling a finished product as “all-natural” could simply mean the final processor hasn’t used any preservatives. But it may have been bathed in chemicals when processed, dunked in a liquid smoke substance for flavoring, or worse; there’s just no way to know. Despite the fact that dogs do eat these things, they are not considered “food,” and there are no federal agencies that oversee or regulate the market other than to provide permits required for production.
Some vendors tout their wares as “all natural” based simply on the marketing materials or ingredient lists sent to them by suppliers, without researching what’s behind the final product. The Leash Connection, a retailer in Clayton, Alabama, sells its wares online and touts its “natural dog bones, natural dog treats, and natural dog chews.” When we asked Carmen O’Conner, a spokesperson for the company, what makes the products natural, she said, “I just go by what they (the suppliers) list the ingredients as.”
The company isn’t breaking any rules or laws; it’s perfectly legal for a manufacturer to list the ingredients of a rawhide chew as “100% cowhide,” even if the hide was washed in formaldehyde and whitened with titanium dioxide.
Think about it: All products that are of animal origin need to be treated in some way to prevent spoiling. The trick is finding products that contain a minimum of the preservative chemicals, yet are still free of harmful bacteria. And because these products are not considered “food,” they fall into a regulatory grey zone, with little (if any) oversight from either the Department of Agriculture or the FDA.
The Rap on Rawhide
Among the most popular of the animal-based chews is the basic rawhide. Chewing rawhides satisfies a dog’s need to exercise his jaws, relieves boredom, and aids dental health, since chewing rawhides can help remove plaque and tartar from a dog’s teeth.
There are three main raps on rawhides: problems associated with the physical act of chewing and swallowing the chews (such as broken teeth, choking, gastrointestinal obstructions, etc.); bacterial contamination; and concerns about the presence of manufacturing chemicals in the animal-based products. This article focuses mainly on the latter concerns; see sidebar, below, for more information about the former problems.
Many people don’t think about the origin of the products they buy for their dog’s enjoyment, whether out of naiveté or because they hate to consider their role in the factory farming and slaughter industries (that’s a topic for another day). But given the popularity of animal-based treats and chews, it’s useful to consider the process of their manufacture.
The process of making rawhide chews starts at the tannery, where hides are first de-haired through a physical and a chemical process. They are treated with another chemical to “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into two layers; the upper layer is earmarked for leather goods – shoes, purses, and so on. The lower level is used to make, among other things, rawhide and gelatin.
The split hides, known as “splits,” are then transported to the processor. If the plants are far apart, the hides are frozen or treated with a lime solution.
At the processor, the split is washed, treated with an antibacterial and/or bleaching agent, then cut. It’s formed into shapes, including the traditional rawhide bone and rolled retriever sticks, then dried. After drying, the products are packaged and sent off to distributors.
It sounds like a straightforward process, but there are vast differences between the quality of the end products, depending on the location of the hides’ origin, the processor location, and the distance and travel time between the two. Hides from some tanneries in the Far East and South America are de-haired using arsenic; others may be treated with formaldehyde. Excessive lime may be used to preserve the hides before processing.
While extensive washing in water can remove traces of any contaminants, the process is time-consuming and expensive, and some factories skimp on this step.
“Foreign manufacturers often heavily lime the hides upon receipt to store them longer before processing,” explains Marco Corsi, owner of Pet Factory, one of two companies who process rawhide products in the U.S. “This is not a real problem if one washes the hides enough to fully get the lime out. Measuring the pH will tell you when the rinses are enough, but time is money, and you can process more loads if you shortcut the rinses.”
If the washing process is too short, Corsi explains, the rawhide dries to a cement-hard finish, partly because the lime cuts the fat content in the hides. This makes for a less-palatable, tough chew. “When the final product is rock-hard, it makes the shards of rawhide harder for the dog’s tummy to handle,” says Corsi. “A well-manufactured natural rawhide will actually have some ‘give’ when twisted, and look like a manila folder, with a golden hue.”
Hydrogen peroxide is used to whiten rawhide and to eliminate bacteria. But Corsi warns consumers to avoid products that look as if they are painted white; they probably were painted, with titanium oxide. The coating gets pasty when wet and is unpalatable for most dogs.
If the rawhides are not dried correctly or long enough – a more common problem with rolled or shapes rawhides – the outer layer may dry while the inner layer remains moist. This can create a breeding ground for bacteria. And over time, the rawhide chew slowly putrefies from the inside out – not a healthy treat for your dog.
Rawhide Chews Selection Tips
Select chews that are unlikely to be chewed into separate pieces, for example, the “knotted” chews whose “knots” are separate pieces.
Look for rawhides that are as thick as possible. Your dog will quickly consume products made from thin hides, rather than spend hours cleaning his teeth and toughening his gums on a thick hide.
Do not buy “munchie” or “crunchy” products, made of small chips of rawhide glooped together with binding agents. Again, these products can be consumed too quickly, defeating the purpose giving the dog something to chew.
“Pressed” rawhide chews are especially hard – hard on teeth, but harder for aggressive chewers to consume quickly. Use your discretion.
Do not buy products that are obviously artificially colored. Do not buy unlabeled products of uncertain origin.
Even “Natural” Chews Can Cause Problems
Vets, breeders, and owners all have horror stories they can tell about a dog who died or had a close call from an intestinal blockage caused by swallowing a chunk of rawhide. According to many vets, the more common dangers include pieces stuck in the mouth or the esophagus, upper airway obstructions, broken teeth, and gastrointestinal distress.
Dale Olm, DVM, a co-owner of Southampton Pet Hospital in Benicia, California, says he’s treated several dogs with teeth damaged from chewing rawhides. “We see quite a few slab fractures of the molar teeth from rawhides,” he says. “(Rawhides) do help with dental tartar, but you have to weigh the risk of breaking the teeth with that benefit. Shards of rawhide jammed up under gums, pieces adhered to the roof of the mouth, and bits stuck painfully between teeth are also a worry.
Upper airway obstructions caused by a piece of rawhide wedged across the throat are another danger. I’ve seen the greatest complications in either the esophagus or the throat,” says Michael Schaer, DVM, a professor of small animal medicine at the University of Florida’s College of Veterinary Medicine. If the dog takes in a big, wedge shaped piece of rawhide, that’s where he gets into trouble.
Gastrointestinal distress is a common malady. John Flanagan, DVM, at Studio City Animal Hospital in Los Angeles, estimates that 10 to 15 percent of his canine clients who chew rawhide experience tummy troubles. “Most of the problems aren’t emergencies, but they’re not fun,” he says. “Most commonly, we see bloody diarrhea, or dogs who throw up and don’t want to eat.”
Despite these caveats, all the veterinarians we interviewed agreed that rawhides could be safely given to dogs as long as owners maintain appropriate supervision. Chewers and gnawers do well with rawhides; gulpers and dogs who destroy and down any object in sight don’t. And nothing beats supervision.
“What I always tell people is, if a dog chews it nicely – chewing, shredding, maybe swallowing little bits – they shouldn’t have any problems,” says Sandy Young, DVM, of the Brewerton Veterinary Clinic in Brewerton, New York.
Concerns About Salmonella
Salmonella is a bacteria found in many dairy, poultry, and meat products. Once ingested, it passes into the intestine and can extend to the liver or spleen. Infection by salmonella bacteria can pose a real threat to humans. In a healthy adult, an infection is characterized by diarrhea, abdominal cramps, vomiting, and nausea, which can last up to a week. The elderly, infants, and people with impaired immune systems are at greater risk for contracting a severe infection, which can result in death.
In 1999, Farm Meats Canada was the subject of a Canadian government warning and recall due to the discovery that some shipments of its pig ears were contaminated with salmonella. Some human infections, possibly caused by handling these treats, were reported. In response, the FDA issued an advisory warning U.S. consumers to exercise extreme caution when handling beef- or pork-based dog chews or to avoid them altogether.
In addition, in 2000 the FDA issued an import alert that instructed U.S. authorities to detain without physical inspection dog chews manufactured by 20 companies in 11 countries – including Canada, Brazil, China, Venezuela, Thailand, New Zealand, and Germany – due to suspicions of salmonella contamination in those products.
After its troubles four years ago, Farm Meats Canada made improvements in the handling and processing of its pig ears and other products and also implemented testing procedures to ensure each batch is salmonella-free. The pig ears are not as yet irradiated, although Darby Brewer, the company’s general manager, says when the company begins building a market in the U.S. its policy will be to irradiate any exported product.
No official incidents of salmonella infection in humans related to dog treats have been reported in the U.S. However, despite the best safety precautions at any plant, the possibility of salmonella contamination remains with any meat-based chew.
“Let me tell you, salmonella is tough,” says Petrapport’s Steven Mendal. “You can be as clean and perfectionist as you want, but you can never say 100 percent that you cannot have some salmonella contamination at some point.”
While the FDA was most concerned about the transmission of salmonella to humans, dogs can also get infected. While a healthy adult dog may deal with the bacteria without much trouble, nursing dogs, puppies, and ill animals can be in for trouble.
“It can be a big problem, especially in a critically ill animal, where they become septic,” says Michael Schaer, DVM, of the University of Florida’s College of Veterinary Medicine. “Even a healthy dog can get symptoms including vomiting and diarrhea. And there’s the potential of crossspecies contamination, from dog to human.”
To help avoid these risks, wash your hands after handling meat-based chews, just as you would after handling raw meat. In addition, says Brewer, it’s crucial to supervise children when they’re around the dog’s goodies.
“It’s especially important with little kids, because you know they like to hold whatever the dog is holding, play with the dog’s toys, maybe even put the toy or the chew in their mouths,” he says.
Wash and Rinse
Because of all these possibilities, it’s very hard to say with certainty that a particular rawhide treat is completely safe. Even trace remnants of chemicals can be dangerous.
Frank Burkholder, owner of the Ecology Rawhide Company in Miami, agrees with Corsi that extensive washing is key to producing a top-quality chew. Ecology Rawhide produces the Natural Rawhide brand of chews and operates its own factory in Paraguay. “We go to great lengths to wash the hides,” he says. Washing each batch takes 8 to 10 hours. Ecology Rawhide used hydrogen peroxide to bleach and sterilize the hides. Drying time ranges from a minimum of 48 hours up to 120 hours, at 60 degrees Celsius (about 140 degrees Fahrenheit).
Steven Mendal, COO of Petrapport, which produces the Beefeaters line of dog chews, says his company is also a stickler for quality. Petrapport imports rawhide products from manufacturers in a number of countries, but Mendal says he insists on extensive washing and gentle, safe disinfectant and bleaching agents.
Where the Cows Come Home
Knowledgeable sources generally believe that hides from U.S. cattle are less likely to be adulterated with hormones, antibiotics, and pesticides than those that come from cattle raised in other countries; U.S. cattle farmers are regulated and inspected far more stringently than in other countries. But in a few countries with extensive grazing land and huge cattle herds, such as Brazil and Argentina, the cattle are free-range and grass-fed, and some believe that these cattle contain fewer chemicals than U.S. cattle.
However, the country of manufacture is also important. It’s far more likely that rigorous manufacturing standards and scrupulous quality control practices are followed in U.S. companies than in companies in China, Thailand, and South America.
This point would be disputed by Steven Mendal, who asserts that Petrapport’s quality control in their foreign manufacturers’ plants is top-notch. Natural Rawhide’s Burkholder says that as the owner of his Paraguayan factory, he can control the quality of the manufacturing process.
What About Bones?
Next month, we’ll examine commercial chew bones. Some bones are sold filled with a strange glop (whose ingredients are not described). Some are wrapped in dried meats and other tissues. Some are incredibly hard; the manufacturers of some “slow roasted” bones claim the process keeps the bone soft and edible. Others are “sterilized” – so much so that dogs may be completely uninterested in them. Should you buy any of these bones? We’ll tell you next month.
Blowing Smoke?
Another concern with rawhides lies in the flavoring of these treats. It’s not difficult to find cheese, garlic, or beef-flavored chews. Many are smoked to create greater appeal by odor or color.
But the odds are that your dog’s rawhide wasn’t dipped in fresh garlic or cooked with real cheddar to give it that special taste. Chemical flavorings, a food industry standard, are usually utilized for ease and affordability. Ditto for smoking, which usually involves immersing the chew in a liquid smoke solution rather than hanging it in a smokehouse.
Real wood smoke contains known carcinogens. However, the liquid smoke used in Petrapport’s rawhide products, says Mendal, is an FDA-approved substance and shouldn’t cause harm to your dog.
Rawhide chews don’t need special flavorings or colorings to be appealing to your dog; most pooches will chew happily on a plain rawhide. So if the thought of chemical additives concerns you, just skip them.
The Bull Market
An item that’s rapidly gaining popularity as an alternative to rawhide chews is an item euphemistically called a bully stick or a bull pizzle. Not to put too fine a point on it: we’re talking about dried bull penises.
“From what everybody tells me, all the people I talk to and vets, they are fully digestible,” says Wayne Bosak, whose Knine Kountry business sells the chews online. “So if a dog should gulp an end piece, the intestinal tract will take care of it, unlike rawhide, which (can) cause blockages.”
Is this claim borne out by scientific study? Again, facts are hard to come by, partly because this item is relatively new to the American market (although Mendal says animal by-products as dog chews are very popular in Europe). Dr. Schaer, at the University of Florida, hadn’t even heard of them and declined to speculate on digestibility issues. So while a manufacturer can’t assert with any authority that they’re 100 percent digestible, neither can skeptics say they’re not.
Like rawhides, pizzles are good for helping a dog maintain clean teeth. And they make a good, long-lasting pastime for light to medium chewers – although aggressive chewers can polish one off in 15 minutes, says Bosak.
Bosak gets his supply from Farm Meats Canada, Ltd., in Alberta, Canada. Farm Meats gets its supply of raw pizzles from processing plants in the United States and receives them frozen. When it’s time to manufacture, the frozen pizzles are thawed in plain water and treated with a 50-ppm solution of sodium hypochlorite (bleach) to kill bacteria, according to general manager Darby Brewer.
Next, they are briefly soaked in liquid smoke and then dried for a minimum of 48 hours at 185 degrees Fahrenheit. They’re cut to size (anywhere from 5 inches to 12 inches) and then sent to British Columbia for irradiation – a final step to ensure that all bacteria are removed.
“The process kills bacteria, including salmonella and anything else that’s in there,” says Brewer. “If we didn’t do that it’s still more than likely the pizzles wouldn’t have any bacteria, but that’s our insurance.”
Pig Ears and Other Parts
Pig ears and pig snouts are popular dog chews, but they really shouldn’t be considered to be in the same category as rawhide chews, due to the rapidity with which a dog can consume them. Pig snouts consist largely of cartilage; pig ears are cartilage and fat. Neither treat offers a dog the teeth-cleaning, gum-toughening, time-consuming benefits of chewing rawhide.
The processing of pig ears at Farm Meats’ plant is similar to that of pizzles, according to Brewer. They are de-haired, then frozen for transport at a U.S. plant. At Farm Meats Canada, they’re thawed, dipped in sodium hypochlorite, and dried. The ears are sprayed with flavoring and cooled before packaging. The process is similar for snouts and tendons.
In terms of physical safety, hooves draw the most ire from veterinarians. Hooves are the most likely animal product to cause broken teeth. Splintered, sharp edges can cause injury to dogs’ mouths and gastrointestinal tracts. Serious blockages can result from dogs eating too much hoof material.
“We tell (our clients) not to feed hooves,” says Dr. Olm. “We’ve seen broken teeth, slivers of the hoof shoved up underneath the gum . . . the hooves are really just too hard.”
Safety = Selection + Supervision
Regardless of the brand of chews you give your dog, it pays to observe some basic safety guidelines:
Know what kind of chewer your dog is. An aggressive chewer – one who devours items quickly or eats them lock, stock, and barrel – may not be a good candidate for any of these items.
Buy appropriately sized chews – too large for them to chew up and swallow in less than an hour or so of supervised chewing.
Supervise your dog while he is chewing. Take the chew away if you have to leave the room for even a minute.
When the item becomes small enough that your dog could ingest it whole – as soon as he can almost fit the whole thing in his mouth – throw it away.
Don’t let a dog chew the same rawhide for more than two or three days. The moist rawhide at room temperature makes a great breeding ground for bacteria.
Keep kids away from dog chews; don’t let them put chews into their mouths.
Wash your hands after handling any dog chew.
The Bottom Line
Knowing what you do now, would you still give any of these chews to your beloved canine companions?
Dr. Schaer swears by rawhides to keep his new Golden Retriever puppy happy. Wayne Bosak gives his champion St. Bernards bully sticks as a diversion. And Frank Burkholder started Ecology Rawhide because he wanted to create top-quality chews for his dogs.
If you choose to give your dog rawhides, select chews from companies that make a big deal about quality control, and whose representatives will discuss their manufacturing process. Be prepared to pay more for quality products; select an appropriately sized chew for your dog; always wash your hands after handling these items; and supervise, supervise, supervise!
C.C. Holland is a freelance writer from Oakland, CA, who enjoys applying what she learns about canine health and behavior to her own mixed-breed dog, Lucky.
– Evaluate your dog’s environment and make any necessary changes to minimize the risks to his health and safety.
– When in public, protect your dog like a mother hen from foolish and malicious humans and dangerous dogs.
– Acquire one or more pet first aid kits and educate yourself through books, courses, and/or videos about providing first aid to your dog.
One of our primary responsibilities as caretakers of our canine companions is to keep them safe. There seems to be an endless host of hazards just waiting to take advantage of a breach in our defenses and attack our unsuspecting pals. If you’ve owned dogs for any length of time, you’ve probably encountered your share of those hazards and vowed not to make the same mistakes again.
It’s easy to become paranoid and want to shroud your four-legged family members in bubble wrap to protect them. But how much protection is reasonable? How do you keep your dog safe and still let him enjoy his life as a dog?
Accidents happen when you least expect them. That’s why they are called accidents. Your job as a responsible dog owner is to minimize the possibility of accidental trauma and tragedy without minimizing the quality of life that you share with your dog. We’re here to make your job easier, by spelling out some of the common dangers and giving you some tips for avoiding them. You might as well learn from others’ past mistakes as well as your own! Let’s look at some sensible safety suggestions that you can implement to maximize your dog’s potential for a long and healthy life.
Dog Collars That Kill
The Problem: We need a place to attach our dogs’ ID tags and leash. The collar – with variations such as the harness and head halter, are the best options we humans have been able to invent. They are not without their drawbacks, however. Thousands of dogs have been killed by their collars – including one of my own, and another personal near-miss.
The once-ubiquitous choke chain – a training collar that is now losing favor, thank goodness – has a fair share of dog fatalities to its credit. For decades, well-meaning but uneducated dog owners have left these collars on their dogs and blithely gone off to work. I did this myself when I was young and dumb, joining the long list of grieving owners who returned home to find that their dogs had hung themselves on this unforgiving, aptly named collar. I was devastated by my thoughtless contribution to the death of my lovely young St. Bernard, Bear.
When used as a training tool rather than an everyday collar, the choke chain can still injure and kill. From time to time, a news story crosses the wires describing how an overzealous trainer has jerked on a choke chain and killed a training subject by yanking hard enough to crush the dog’s trachea. They can also be deadly in play. Twenty years ago, while my dog, Keli, was playing with her sister, Darby (who was owned by a friend), after a training class, Keli got her lower jaw through Darby’s collar. Darby spun around, trapping Keli’s jaw and strangling herself. I managed to lift Keli and spin her in the opposite direction, narrowly averting the tragedy.
However, even standard buckle and snap collars can kill. There are numerous reports of dogs strangling themselves in their collars when snagged, or when, like Keli and Darby, they get caught in the jaws of a playmate.
Identification tags, so vital for an escaped dog’s safe return to his owner, have also caused collar tragedies. We’ve heard of numerous dogs whose ID tags slipped through the grate of a floor heating or air conditioning duct, pinning the dog to the floor and causing him to panic. In other cases, dogs who sleep or rest on outdoor decks have gotten their ID tags caught between the spaces between the deck boards.
Unfortunately, collars with some sort of ID attached still provide the best odds that your dog will be returned to you if he somehow escapes your supervision. Head halters, of course, cannot be left on all the time, and body harnesses can chafe.
Solutions: Some dog owners choose to remove collars whenever they are not home with their dogs, to avoid any possibility of strangling. Unfortunately, that leaves the dog without a visible ID tag, should he escape the bounds of his house or yard.
PetSafe Products offers another solution: the KeepSafe Breakaway collar. This collar features a reusable safety buckle that will pop open when a sufficient amount of pressure is applied. The breaking strength of the buckle is geared to the size of the collar, so even the weight of a small dog is sufficient to pop the buckle of the small-sized collars. The collar also has an override feature so it can be safely used to walk the dog on a leash.
We put the KeepSafe collar on two of our dogs (Dubhy, our Scottie, and Tucker, our 75-pound cattle dog mix) when the two pals started engaging in collar-grab games. We found Dubhy’s collar on the floor numerous times, and on one occasion trapped by his tags in one of the heater grates in the floor. I shudder to think what might have happened on any one of those occasions had he been wearing a regular collar.
Dog Safety at Home
The Problem: There are any number of dangers for your dogs at home, including things they can eat, things they can chew, things they can get caught in, and things that can fall on them. Hazards outside are even greater, even in a fenced yard, including malicious mischief, theft, poisoning, attack from predators, and accidental escape or release.
Young puppies are at greatest risk, since they explore the world with their mouths, and because they are smaller and more vulnerable than adult dogs. Puppies chew cords and get electrocuted. They get into garbage and household cleaners. They are more likely to ingest multiple pieces of chew toys as well as non-edible objects and become impacted, requiring emergency surgery.
Adult dogs are not immune, however. Nuisance barkers often get released from their yards, shot or poisoned. Dogs escape their yards by jumping over, digging under, or slipping through the fence when the pool cleaner leaves the gate open. They also get stolen for resale, breeding, and lost pet scams.
Solutions: First and foremost, keep your dogs indoors when you are not home to protect them. If they must be left outside, make sure your fence is solid and secure. Also make sure your dogs are not disturbing the neighbors, at risk of escaping, or able to fall into the hot tub or swimming pool. Finally, padlock the gates religiously.
Indoors, a puppy should be crated, or kept in an ex-pen or puppy-proofed room during your absence. Any new dogs in our home are crated when we are not there until they are at least a year old, at which time we give them gradually increasing periods of freedom as they demonstrate their maturity and ability to handle house-freedom privileges.
In addition, baby-proof latches on cupboard doors, covered garbage cans, and similar management tools can protect hazardous materials from pooches who have a penchant for snooping where they ought not.
Riding in Cars
The Problem: Loose dogs in cars can cause accidents by getting under the driver’s feet, blocking the driver’s view, or simply by causing a distraction that diverts the driver’s attention from the road. Even a well-behaved dog can become a deadly projectile if the driver has to slam on the brakes suddenly, or if an accident does happen. And if a free-flying dog manages to survive the accident, he may escape the damaged vehicle and become lost in strange territory, or get hit by a car in traffic and be injured or worse, as happened to my brother’s Australian Shepherd years ago when she jumped through the shattered windshield of his car and was killed by a passing truck.
Of course, another hazard presented by taking your dog with you in the car is heat stroke. It does not have to be very warm outside for the sun to superheat your car and kill your dog if you are foolish enough to leave him unattended – but we are confident that WDJ readers are smarter than that! By the same token, we’re sure we don’t have to warn you about the hazards of hauling your dog in the back of an open pick-up truck.
Solutions: Canine seat belts and crates are available just about everywhere dog products are sold. One of our favorite seat belts, intended for use with your dog’s regular harness, is the Doggie Catcher, produced and sold by Smiling Dog Enterprises (www.doggiecatcher.com, 800-741-3480). In a review of seat belts in our May 2001 issue, it was our top choice among seat belts by virtue of its simplicity and ease of use. Since our review, this product was modified with a smaller flap to cover the smaller seat belt release button in newer model cars.
If you crate your dog in your car, remember that you need to secure the crate in some safe fashion as well. In case of an accident, your dog could be subjected to a very unpleasant ride as the crate bounces around the car, or worse, the crate itself can become a deadly projectile with the dog in it!
Out in Public
The Problem: We frequently harp on the importance of getting your dog out in public for ongoing socialization. When you do, you will need to guard him like a mother hen; you can’t count on people to be dog-savvy, and you never know when you might encounter a less-than-friendly dog. Big and small, young and old, even well-intentioned humans can do some very foolish things around dogs. Feeding chocolate, cooked chicken bones, alcohol or drugs; tossing a tennis ball off a cliff; or approaching and hugging a dog who clearly prefers not to be hugged are just a few of the “stupid human tricks” that come to mind.
Remember, it is one of your primary responsibilities as caretaker of your canine companion to keep him safe. That means never leaving him where he could be vulnerable to unsafe acts by foolish or malicious humans, or nasty dogs.
Solutions: I’m afraid we don’t have any magic products to offer that will protect your dog from human hazards. Your constant vigilance and direct supervision are your most useful safety tools.
Never leave your best friend tied up outside the grocery store or exposed in the back of your pickup truck while you run in to do your shopping. There’s no telling who might do what to him while you are thumping the melons. Even leaving him in the car with the windows cracked open for ventilation risks someone sticking their hand through the crack and being bitten, or unlocking the door and releasing or stealing your furry pal. Leave him home if you run errands where he can’t accompany you into the store.
At social events, always keep your eye on your dog and be prepared to step in and rescue him if he needs help. If your dog appears anxious about an approaching person, stop the interaction. Gently but firmly turn away the toddler who wants to hug him, and stand your ground with the person who insists, “It’s okay, dogs love me!” as your dog stiffens and tries to retreat behind your legs. Your dog will be blamed for any bites that occur, regardless of the provocation.
As for those nasty dogs, it’s a good idea to carry protection. Direct Stop, available from PetSafe, is a citronella spray in a handy, small pressurized can. Direct Stop can startle and ward off a stray dog exhibiting malicious intent. Brush up on all your options for keeping your dog safe from other canines, and be ready to intervene if necessary (see “How to Safely Break Up a Dogfight,” December 2002).
Safe Play
The Problem: We love to recreate with our dogs, and that’s a very good thing. In appropriate circumstances, we can take our dogs hiking, biking, horseback riding, and boating, to mention a few.
Just as we take calculated risks for ourselves when we engage in our favorite sports, so we expose our dogs to some of those same risks. Athletic activity can subject a dog to paw wear and tear, strains and sprains, overheating, dehydration, and accidents. Long-term, high-impact sports such as Frisbee-catching and Flyball can lead to eventual arthritis. That doesn’t mean we don’t share our outdoor activities with our dogs, but we do need to minimize the risks.
Solutions: Evaluate the risks of each activity you want to share with your dog and decide if they are reasonable. Then figure out how you can reduce the risks to make them even more acceptable.
For example, be sure to carry plenty of water for your dog as well as yourself when you go hiking or biking together (see “B.Y.O.W” in the June 2002 issue for a review of leak-proof dog water bottles). If you hike or bike in rough, rocky areas or on hot pavement or sand, consider getting him accustomed to wearing boots to protect his pads (see “Pooch in Boots,” January 2001).
If you want to go riding with him, take the time to teach him to stay out from under equine hooves. For boating activities, insist that he wear a canine flotation device. As with humans, even a strong doggie paddler can get into trouble in fast or deep water, and if your craft should go down in open water, he may need a life jacket to help him stay afloat until he can reach land – or regain consciousness. See WDJ’s 2016 review of canine flotation devices here.
Be Prepared
Regardless of our best efforts, stuff happens. Tornados, hurricanes, floods, and fires can cause major injuries. Falls can break bones. Dogfights occur. Accidents happen when you least expect them – that’s why they call them accidents. In spite of all your bubble wrap, chances are there will come a time in your dog’s life when you are called upon to deal with an emergency. The better prepared you are, the better the outcome is likely to be.
Solutions: Get at least two pet first aid kits – one for your home and one for your car. If you take your dog hiking, get a third, smaller one, that he can carry in his backpack. Stock them with items appropriate to canine first aid. We like the commercial pet first-aid kits available from Creative Pet Products.
Your personal library should also include a good book on pet first aid, such as the one offered by the American Red Cross, Pet First Aid, available through your local Red Cross Chapter. The Red Cross also offers a course on Pet First Aid that teaches pet owners how to respond to a wide range of animal emergencies, from dressing a wound, performing CPR, to preparing pets for natural disasters. Call your local Red Cross chapter or go to redcross.org to find the list of course locations. If the class is not offered in your area, you can order The Pet First Aid for Dogs and Cats video from the American Red Cross of Greater Los Angeles. You don’t have to be a Boy Scout to be prepared.
Pat Miller, WDJ’s Training Editor, is also a freelance author and Certified Pet Dog Trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. She is the president of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, and published her first book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, in 2002.
Are you among the millions of people who set out into the great outdoors every year? If so, are you familiar with Urtica? If not, you certainly should be. Collectively known as nettle, these plants inhabit drainage ditches, stream banks, and other moist soils in North America and throughout the Northern Hemisphere.
Nettle deserves your attention. In fact, it actually demands your attention. Even the slightest brush of skin against the stems or leaves of the plant will immediately result in a painful sting. Tiny, hollow needles line the stem and leaf margins of the plant, each containing a combination of formic acid and antigenic proteins. These toxins are held under a slight pressure, so when a person’s skin comes in contact with the tiny needles, the venom is actually injected into the outer layers of skin, causing a burning rash of tiny blisters.
Fortunately, the discomfort is generally short-lived. The chemicals that cause nettle’s sting dissipate quickly when exposed to air, and the rash usually disappears within a couple of hours. In fact, complete drying or cooking of the leafy greens will neutralize these compounds altogether, allowing dogs and their caregivers to enjoy its delicious flavor and powerful medicine. And for those who do not wish to brave foreboding incursions into unruly patches of stinging weeds, don’t despair; nettle is accessible to everyone, in certified organic, dried (and sting-free), bulk-bin form at your local health food store.
Nettle is extremely nourishing. One hundred grams of the dried leaves may contain as much as 30.4 g (that’s 30 percent by weight!) of crude protein, 2,970 mg of calcium, 680 mg of phosphorus, 32.2 mg of iron, 650 mg of magnesium, 20.2 mg beta-carotene, and 3,450 mg of potassium. Also present are vitamins A, C, D, and B-complex, all in a highly palatable form that can be effectively assimilated into the body without adding stress upon the liver, kidneys, or digestive tract. This makes nettle an excellent “green food” supplement for dogs who need extra trace minerals and vitamins in their diets, but not in huge, multi-vitamin doses, such as those on a well-balanced home-prepared diet.
In addition, because nettle is rich in gut-cleansing fiber and antioxidant chlorophyll, it a good choice for dogs that are prone to chronic digestive disorders, systemic toxicity, or urinary tract problems. The dried herb can be sprinkled directly onto the animals’ food, ½ tsp. for each pound of food fed.
Nettle for the eyes and skin
Many of the herbal eye rinse preparations found on store shelves contain extracts of a plant called “eyebright” (Euphrasia species). Although eyebright is an excellent anti-inflammatory agent for the eyes, much of it is harvested from the wild. A growing concern among ecology-minded herbalists suggests that wild stands of eyebright may not be able to sustain the impacts of the burgeoning herb market much longer. Therefore, if you choose to utilize any product that contains eyebright, please make sure it comes from cultivated sources. Or, as an earth-friendly alternative to wild harvested eyebright, use nettle instead.
Nettle is one of the first herbs I reach for when a need arises for a soothing, anti-inflammatory eye rinse. Start by making a good, strong nettle tea. Stuff a tea ball as full as you can with dried nettle leaves, then steep in a quart of near-boiling water until the tea is completely cool. Strain it through a paper coffee filter.
To make the final eye rinse, mix a few tablespoons of the nettle tea with 8-12 ounces of buffered saline solution (the stuff used for rinsing contact lenses, available at any supermarket). To apply, hold your companion’s head to one side and pour a small quantity across the eye, making certain that it reaches affected areas.
If nettle tea is not your bag, an alcohol-based nettle leaf tincture (available at health food stores) can be used instead. Simply mix 10-12 drops of the tincture into one ounce of saline. Don’t worry about the alcohol; at this mixing ratio it will be very dilute – a harmless one percent or less. Apply the tincture/saline rinse the same way as mentioned above, one to three times per day until the redness is gone.
These preparations will work as a gentle astringent to shrink swollen tissues and bring soothing relief to mild cases of conjunctivitis or eye irritation that are due to blowing dust or too much dry wind in the eyes during car rides. If a bacterial or fungal infection is suspected, a few drops of Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium) or certified organic goldenseal root (Hydrastis canadensis) tincture can be added to the above formulas for antimicrobial support.
Nettle leaf tea is also an excellent skin and coat rinse that will nourish your animal’s fur and provide symptomatic relief for itchy skin and fleabites. Simply make strong tea, allow it to cool, and pour over your dog until he is thoroughly soaked. Allow your companion to drip-dry; don’t waste precious nettle tea by wiping it off with a towel!
Nettle for allergy
Although researchers remain puzzled about how nettle works in this capacity, many herbalists who suffer from seasonal allergies have found that nettle leaf helps lessen their symptoms if taken on a regular basis just before and throughout hayfever season. In a recent study involving 69 patients who suffer from allergic rhinitis, 58 percent found relief after taking a freeze-dried preparation of the leaf. Similarly, many of the holistic veterinarians I work with have seen positive results when nettle is used in the same capacity for dogs.
There are a number of theories that could explain nettle’s success at treating allergies. The anti-allergenic activities of nettle may be attributable to its histamine compounds, which may serve to mimic or somehow slow the release of histamines that are naturally produced by the allergy sufferer’s body. Or they may trigger an immune response that serves to strengthen the body system proactively, so the body is better prepared to deal with the inevitable onslaught of allergens that come when hayfever season begins.
For animals with predictable, seasonal occurrences of allergies, dietary supplementation with dried nettle leaf may help. Use one-half teaspoon of the dried herb, added to each cup of food at mealtime.
Nettle for urinary dysfunction
Many herbalists believe that the roots of nettle may be useful in the treatment of prostate enlargement, especially at early onset of the disorder. Although swollen prostate is not as common in animals as it is in humans, it can happen. In my experiences with dogs, chronic or acute urinary infections, mucous discharge, inexplicable ejaculation, or urinary incontinence may accompany prostate enlargement. The problem may be secondary to injuries of the urinary tract that have resulted from stones, neutering, or other trauma.
Prostatic adenoma is a degenerative enlargement of the glandular part of the prostate that typically results in frequent urination during the night. In a study conducted with human subjects who had mild cases or early onset of this disorder, the fluid extract (tincture) of nettle root was found to reduce the duration and volume of urine retention, and thus the need to urinate throughout the night was reduced as well.
The active constituent in this case is thought to be Beta-sitosterol, a phytosterol known to possess mild anti-inflammatory actions. Although this action is not likely to reduce the formation of scar tissue within the urinary tract and prostate, it may help relieve symptoms through reduction of swelling in surrounding tissues. Given the safety of this herb and functional similarities between the prostates of animals and humans, nettle is certainly worth a try in dogs.
Enjoyable harvest
If you are bold enough to harvest nettles yourself, do so before the plants bloom. The younger the plants are the better they will be. Mature plants become tough and bitter, and begin developing tiny crystalline particles, called cystoliths in their leaf tissues that can be irritating to mucous membranes in the urinary tract.
Wear long sleeves and gloves (if you forget, you’re in for painful lesson) and harvest from clean, herbicide-free areas that are least 100 feet from any roadways. After gathering, you can boil the greens and serve them as you would spinach (excellent with garlic, lemon, and butter) or you can spread them onto clean newspapers to dry. Be sure they are in a well-ventilated, sunlight-free location until they are crispy-dry.
If by chance a leaf or stem manages to sneak under your shirt sleeve during harvest, try this: grasp a piece of the stem and squeeze some of the nettle juice onto the affected area. The stem juice is rich in lecithin, which will sometimes antidote the sting.
Just remember; if you don’t introduce yourself to nettle, it may introduce itself to you. Ouch!
Greg Tilford is a well-known veterinary herbalist, lecturer, and author. He serves as a consultant and formulator to hundreds of holistic veterinarians throughout the world, and is CEO of Animal’s Apawthecary, a company that develops herbal products specifically for use in animals. He is author of four books on herbs, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets (Bowtie, 1999), which he co-authored with his wife, Mary.
Every system of medicine has something to offer, even if it’s hard to explain just what it is and how it works. I’ll admit that I’ve been subtly (I hope) resistant to discussing some alternative and complementary diagnosis techniques in WDJ, largely because I have a hard time publishing information that doesn’t make sense to me.
But seeing is believing. Once you’ve personally witnessed (as I have) a practitioner make a dead-on diagnosis and restore the health of a patient with treatments indicated by an unconventional method – well, whether it makes “sense” or not, it’s worth talking about.
I was a very skeptical journalist 13 years ago, when I was assigned to write my first article about holistic veterinary medicine. Today, I strongly believe in about 80 percent of what I then regarded as absurd. I’d characterize myself as dubious – but respectful – of about 18 percent of the rest.
If you’re an alternative medicine skeptic, I suggest you simply file this information away, in case there ever comes a day when no one else can tell you what’s wrong with your dog.
–Nancy Kerns, Editor
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By Shannon Wilkinson
One hundred years ago, medical practitioners had only a few tools they could use to determine the cause of their patients’ problems: visual and physical examinations, thermometers, stethoscopes, and little more.
The assemblage of veterinary diagnostic tools has expanded exponentially in the past century – particularly in the last 20 years, as technologies developed for human medicine (such as ultrasound, MRI, and CT scan) became more affordable and found their way into veterinary clinics. These tools, combined with the ability to share information about patients and treatments with other informed and experienced practitioners in “real time,” have made the field of veterinary diagnostic medicine very exciting.
The field of alternative and complementary veterinary medicine has also gained intriguing new diagnostic tools and methods over the last century. As with conventional medicine, some of these diagnostic accoutrements developed out of centuries-old medical models; some were inspired and aided by new technologies.
Why would dog owners enlist the aid of unconventional veterinary practitioners when so much amazing diagnostic science and technology can be had elsewhere? Sometimes, it’s because Western medical diagnostics failed to fully or even partly explain what is wrong with their dog, and the results of conventional treatment were incomplete, compromised, or nonexistent. Sometimes it’s because they have experienced amazing results with alternative or complementary healthcare methods. Or it may be that the unconventional approach just feels better to them.
The following are descriptions of some diagnostic techniques used by a growing number of veterinary practitioners who use alternative and/or complementary medicine. These brief snapshots are not meant to completely explain how each method works, but to introduce you to the possibility that they can work.
PHYSICAL EXAMINATIONS
A conventional veterinary examination may include looking at the dog; checking his ears, eyes, and nose; taking his temperature and pulse; and listening to his heart and lungs.
Examinations completed by a veterinarian trained in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are much more comprehensive, and include extensive study of the dog’s pulse and tongue. These diagnostic techniques have been an integral part of Chinese medicine for thousands of years. “The pulse and tongue provide bottom line information . . . they don’t lie,” says Cheryl Schwartz, DVM, author of Four Paws Five Directions: A Guide to Chinese Medicine for Cats and Dogs.
TCM’s pulse diagnosis: Dr. Schwartz was one of the first practitioners to adapt pulse diagnosis for veterinary medicine. She started to develop the method in the 1980s and teaches it to other veterinarians as part of her training courses in acupuncture.
Rather than simply checking the pulse in one location on the patient’s body, recording the pulse’s frequency and strength, practitioners of traditional Chinese medicine may check the pulse in as many as nine different positions, looking for up to 28 different “conditions” or “qualities.”
“For practicality in veterinary medicine the maximum is usually six positions; most practitioners only do three,” says Karen Ivin, DVM, owner of Desert Mobile Veterinary Services in Gilbert, Arizona. Dogs are not always comfortable with you palpating the pulse for long, Dr. Ivin explains.
In people, the radial pulse (found at the wrist) is normally used for observing the pulse in a leisurely manner. However, in dogs, this pulse is somewhat difficult to find; instead, the femoral artery (found on the inside of the hind leg) is used for relatively lengthy observations.
The practitioner uses three fingers to feel the dog’s pulse in three different positions along the femoral artery. Then, two levels of depth are felt in each position; the pulse felt at the surface or superficial level corresponds to the yang organs of Chinese medicine, while the deeper layer corresponds to the yin organs. By utilizing three positions and two layers on each side of the body, a trained practitioner can evaluate each of the 12 energy meridians (each relating to a different organ system) of the body.
The pulse qualities being evaluated include rate, rhythm, “shape,” and force. As she feels the pulse, Dr. Schwartz says she asks herself, “Is it large and bounding, too slow, too fast, is there enough juice?”
The qualities observed in the dog’s pulse, along with the findings from the rest of the physical examination, lead the practitioner to further investigation and treatment of specific conditions.
TCM’s tongue diagnosis: Stick out your tongue and say “Ahhh” takes on whole new meaning in traditional Chinese medicine. According to its practitioners, looking at the tongue can help determine the health of the patient’s internal organs. Dr. Schwartz describes the tongue as the “visual gateway to the interior of the body.”
According to this system, different areas on the tongue correlate to the internal organs. For instance, the tip of the tongue relates to the heart and the sides of the tongue represent the liver and gallbladder. The area just behind the tip refers to the lungs, the center of the tongue is spleen/pancreas and stomach, while the back of the tongue relates to the kidneys.
When evaluating the tongue, the practitioner looks at its color, shape, and coating. She makes particular notes of any differences between the different areas of the tongue.
Observing these subtle characteristics played a crucial role in the proper diagnosis of one of Dr. Schwartz’s patients, a dog with back problems. After a few treatments, there wasn’t any improvement. Dr. Schwartz noticed the dog’s tongue had a curl at the tip and a deep groove, indicating a heart problem. She referred the client to a cardiac specialist, where the dog was, in fact, diagnosed with a heart condition.
Evaluating the tongue can also provide insight to how the dog is progressing with treatment. Fewer cracks or a change in color may indicate that treatments are benefiting the animal.
One problems with proper tongue analysis is that sometimes you just can’t see an animal’s tongue. “Wrenching open a dog’s mouth to evaluate his tongue will almost always turn it some degree of purple, so you have to try to evaluate it at rest, and not when he is panting a lot,” says Dr. Ivin. Or, Dr. Schwartz recommends asking a dog to yawn, or using some gentle Tellington TTouch work to help the dog relax, open his mouth, and show his tongue.
While it can take many years to become an expert in pulse or tongue diagnosis, the layperson can start observing these markers and learn what is “normal” for her dog. Look at your dog’s tongue when he is relaxed and well; experiment with feeling his femoral pulse. When you are thoroughly familiar with these attributes, it’s easy to discover changes that can indicate early signs of trouble.
LABORATORY WORK
Most guardians of companion animals understand the value of regular blood work. Running a blood chemistry panel and complete blood count (CBC) when your dog is ill helps determine whether the organ systems are functioning properly or if infection is present. The results of these tests also can alert your vet to the possibility of other conditions, such as endocrine dysfunction or cancer, which might require further testing.
Some holistic veterinarians have taken this laboratory analysis a step further, to evaluate more subtle changes in organs and body systems, sometimes even when they are subclinical (before there are physical signs).
Bio Nutritional Analysis (BNA): Veterinarians Robert and Martin Goldstein are brothers who share a special interest in nutrition and its role in animal health. They developed a method of analyzing an animal’s blood test results with an interesting purpose in mind: to determine supplements that would correct any nutritional imbalances or deficiencies the animal might have. They also developed a computer program that could run the analysis, named the test “Bio Nutritional Analysis” or BNA, and offer it to pet owners nationwide.
How do they do that? Your own veterinarian draws blood and submits the sample to Antech Diagnostics, a lab with facilities nationwide; the results get sent directly to the Drs. Goldstein for evaluation. Their recommendations for nutritional supplements are sent to the client and/or her vet.
The BNA and the Goldsteins’ prescribed supplements have numerous success stories to their credit, and the larger holistic veterinary community is generally respectful of the Goldsteins’ work. However, some practitioners have complained that the inventors of the BNA have not offered any explanation for the methodology that enables their computer program to match blood work values with a patient’s specific nutritional needs – especially since the veterinarians also mix and sell supplements tailored for those patients. (To their credit, they also take pains to tell clients that the supplements are available elsewhere – not custom-mixed, though.)
BioMedical Profile (BMP): Don’t get confused with the initials or other similarities; the BMP was developed and is used by Wm. Konrad Kruesi, DVM, owner of the Cold River Veterinary Center in North Clarendon, Vermont. Dr. Kruesi himself analyzes the results of blood, hair, and urine tests to formulate a nutritional plan tailored for his patients’ “organ functional relationships.” He also orders repeat tests in many cases to help identify trends that may indicate progressive disease, describing the BMP as “a personal medical service, labor- and brain-intensive process.”
Like the Drs. Goldstein, Dr. Kruesi believes that supplements are a critical factor in his treatments, and he sells them, too. (He does not custom-formulate supplements for his patients, and does offer information on other sources for the supplements. “The emphasis of my practice is nutritional medicine because it is the safest, most effective way I have seen to promote health in virtually every case,” he says.
Hair analysis: Another laboratory test ordered and used by some veterinarians is hair analysis, to determine levels of heavy metals and/or nutritional deficiencies. Gloria Dodd, DVM, owner of Everglo Natural Veterinary Services in Gualala, California, says she orders hair analysis for every animal who comes into her practice. “Hair analysis opens up a whole new vista for solving the mystery of illness,” she says.
Dr. Dodd reports that each hair analysis report on sick animals shows abnormal amounts of minerals and toxic levels of aluminum. Many exhibit combinations of other heavy metals. This can cause a variety of conditions, she says, including hypoglycemia, arthritis, skin rashes and allergies, anemia, hypo- and hyperthyroidism, digestive disorders, epilepsy, kidney dysfunction and cancer.
As mentioned earlier, Dr. Kruesi also routinely uses hair analysis in his practice. “Any small animal patient with chronic disease is a good candidate for hair element testing,” he says. Follow-up analysis helps monitor the patient’s response to treatment, too.
ENERGY EVALUATIONS
Conventional practitioners use a variety of means such as EKG, MRI, and even radiographs to measure energy patterns of the body. Holistic veterinarians may reach far beyond these diagnostic devices to evaluate and measure a patient’s life force energy, sometimes also called chi (borrowing the traditional Chinese medical term for the same force).
Practitioners use the tools of their choice to try to assess the functioning of organs, detect the presence of viruses or bacteria, and identify any other physical problems or even emotional imbalances. In addition, some of the following evaluation techniques are used to help find the best solutions for their patients’ health problems.
Kinesiology or muscle testing: What if you could do a simple test to determine what foods and remedies make you “stronger” and what things make you “weaker”? According to proponents, this is exactly what muscle testing does. Better known as kinesiology (pronounced kin-knees-ee-ALL-oh-gee), the process involves “testing” a muscle for strength as the test subject answers a “yes” or “no” question.
In a classic method, the tester pushes down on the subject’s outstretched arm, using the response of the subject’s deltoid muscles. The theory is that when the answer to the question is “yes,” or is “good” for the individual, the muscle will remain strong and the subject’s arm will not fall under the tester’s pressure. If the answer to the question is “no,” or it is “bad” for the individual, the muscle will weaken and the arm will sink.
Since you can’t elicit a yes or no response from a dog or other animal, you can’t directly test the muscle in the same way that you can with a person. In this situation, a human “surrogate” is used to stay in physical contact with the animal and answer the tester’s questions. However, like animal communicators, some practitioners of muscle testing believe that they can do the work at a distance, without direct physical contact with the animal.
Some practitioners are advocates of what is called “Applied Kinesiology” – a more formal and strict use of muscle testing, with more stringent methodology; these practitioners tend to feel that less than rigorous study of the techniques constitutes their improper use.
Many holistic practitioners use at least some aspect or degree of muscle testing to aid in their clients’ health evaluations and treatment protocols. Donna Starita, DVM, uses muscle testing extensively in her practice, located in Gresham, Oregon. In addition to using standard diagnostic techniques, such as hands-on examinations and blood tests, Dr. Starita evaluates her patients through muscle testing to check the health of their organs and emotions. She then uses her experience, knowledge, and muscle testing to determine a treatment protocol.
According to Dr. Starita, kinesiology enables the practitioner to “interface with the body electromagnetically.” This statement gets at one theory of how kinesiology works, based on quantum physics and the theory that all matter is really energy. Muscle testing identifies energy weaknesses in an individual that might be related to organ systems, emotions, diet, or other criteria established by the tester. It also can be used to determine which (if any) supplements, medications, dietary changes, or other treatment protocols will strengthen the energy.
Contact reflex analysis (CRA): This diagnostic tool is predominantly used for detecting and addressing nutritional deficiencies. Originally developed by a chiropractor, CRA shares theoretical attributes with muscle testing and traditional Chinese medicine.
According to the basic theory, the body naturally exhibits an electromagnetic field; any deficiency or disease will cause an imbalance in the body’s electrical circuits. These “malfunctions” can be detected by methodically testing the body’s reflexes; how and where the normal reflex fails indicates different problems to the trained tester. Veterinary practitioners generally use a human assistant to hold the animal patient and act as an electrical conduit for the testing.
Bert Brooks, DVM, and his wife, Melissa, use a modified form of CRA in their practice, Cache Creek Veterinary Services, in Woodland, California. Dr. Brooks finds the technique useful for identifying his patients’ nutritional deficiencies and correcting them with supplements, homeopathy, or other therapies.
“We have lost some clients because they cannot accept what we do. While I am sorry to see patients that we could help go because of prejudice [against CRA], hundreds of new clients have taken their places and have been rewarded for their faith in something new,” says Dr. Brooks.
Electrodermal screening: In 1946, a German doctor developed a method and a machine that he said could measure activity at acupuncture points. He claimed that acupuncture points give off a quantifiable rating, indicating whether they are weak, normal, or stressed. He then determined that introducing different remedies or supplements into the circuit could alter the reading. Finding the “right” remedy normalized the reading.
This technique, now known as Electrodermal Screening, Meridian Stress Testing, or an BioEnergetic Evaluation, is used by a handful of holistic practitioners. Dr. Kruesi says he utilizes BioEnergetic Evaluation in his practice because it provides subtle information, not necessarily available through blood tests, xrays, hands-on exams, or conventional diagnostic techniques. Plus, it is noninvasive and provides immediate results.
On a person, the process takes about 20 minutes, and measures activity on 60 different acupuncture points on the hands and feet. Since most dogs don’t care to have their paws handled for that length of time, Dr. Kruesi developed a method of using the animal’s guardian or one of his technicians as a conduit, similar to how assistants are used when CRA is used on animals.
Dr. Kruesi says he can then evaluate the results – along with other diagnostic techniques – to help determine appropriate treatments. “This is a blending of traditional Chinese medicine, homeopathy, and modern physics,” says Dr. Kruesi.
What will you use? As you can see, the evaluation techniques used by holistic veterinarians can vary widely; many alternative and complementary practitioners don’t use any of these alternative diagnostics, while a few may use all of them. In addition, any two veterinarians who call a method by the same name may not use it in the same manner.
We suggest asking any practitioner you consult a lot of questions; if the answers seem nonsensical to you, it may be best to work with another practitioner, one whose methods you can better appreciate.
Since any “holistic” healthcare program is bound to require a considerable commitment of your time, attention, and resources, you should feel as comfortable as you can working with the veterinarian.
Finally, don’t forget to consult your dog. If a course of treatment isn’t working for him after a few months, consider changing healthcare providers.
Pat Millers article on safety in this issue got me thinking about a close call my husband and I occasionally joke about, when he almost caused the death of my beloved Border Collie, Rupert on one of our first dates. Just think, I will say to Brian with a rueful smile. If you had killed my dog that day, we wouldnt be together now!
The three of us had gone for a day hike in an area known as Lands End, in a steep and wooded area near the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. We had stopped to eat lunch, perched just feet away from a cliff, hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean. We were talking while Brian ate an apple, when suddenly he cocked his arm to throw the core over the cliff.
I had less than a second to grab for his arm and yell, DOWN! to my (unbeknownst to Brian) fetching fool of a dog who skidded to a halt on his belly, inches from leaping over the cliff. Fortunately for all of us, Rupes obedience is every bit as ingrained as his desire to fetch anything that anyone throws anytime, anywhere.
Brian looked kind of white we both did. He said, shakily, He . . . he wouldnt have jumped . . . would he? I could only nod and pat the earth beside me, as Rupert wiggled back to my side, eyes bright, still ready to fetch.
Why hadnt he been leashed? Why hadnt I been holding the leash as we sat there, perched on the cliffs? Well, because Rupert is so smart, and so perfectly well-behaved; hes often off-leash. But, of course, I never would have imagined that someone might make what I knew to be a Go get it! gesture so close to a cliff. Its only after tragedies, or as in our case, near-disasters, that you think, What was I thinking?
In Better Safe Than Sorry,” Training Editor Pat Miller discusses a lot of things to consider regarding dogs and their safety. She even mentions the possibility of a dog leaping off a cliff for a tennis ball I didnt add that so it appears shes thought about all this more than the average dog owner. Please pay attention to her suggestions for keeping your dog safe.
Jam-packed with info This issue is exceptionally stuffed with valuable information. Theres a report on a promising new treatment for cancer; an important training article; instructions on how to select safe rawhide chews; an effective remedy for your dogs spring allergies; and a description of numerous alternative diagnostic techniques that many dog owners have found useful. Last month, I promised wed have some letters in this issue, but we ran out of room. Our readers suggestions for safe airline travel with dogs, as well as some additions to our list of healthy dogtreats, will appear next month.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
