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Rage Syndrome in Dogs

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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58

RAGE SYNDROME: OVERVIEW

1. Document your dog’s episodes of unexplainable, explosive aggression so you can describe all the details to a trainer/behaviorist, including all environmental conditions you can think of.

2. Seek the assistance of a qualified, positive dog trainer/behavior consultant. Take your documentation with you on your first visit.

3. Be safe, and be sure others are safe, around your dog.

The term “rage syndrome” conjures up mental images of Cujo, Stephen King’s fictional rabid dog, terrorizing the countryside. If you’re owner of a dog who suffers from it, it’s almost that bad – never knowing when your beloved pal is going to turn, without warning, into a biting, raging canine tornado.

The condition commonly known as rage syndrome is actually more appropriately called “idiopathic aggression.” The definition of idiopathic is: “Of, relating to, or designating a disease having no known cause.” It applies perfectly to this behavior, which has confounded behaviorists for decades. While most other types of aggression can be modified and reduced through desensitization and counter-conditioning, idiopathic aggression often can’t. It is an extremely difficult and heartbreaking condition to deal with.

The earmarks of idiopathic aggression include:

• No identifiable trigger stimulus/stimuli

• Intense, explosive aggression

• Onset most commonly reported in dogs 1-3 years old

• Some owners report that their dogs get a glazed, or “possessed” look in their eyes just prior to an idiopathic outburst, or act confused.

• Certain breeds seem more prone to suffer from rage syndrome, including Cocker and Springer Spaniels (hence the once-common terms – Spaniel rage, Cocker rage, and Springer rage), Bernese Mountain Dogs, St. Bernards, Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherds, and Lhasa Apsos. This would suggest a likely genetic component to the problem.

The Good News About Rage Syndrome

The good news is that true idiopathic aggression is also a particularly uncommon condition. Discussed and studied widely in the 1970s and ’80s, it captured the imagination of the dog world, and soon every dog with episodes of sudden, explosive aggression was tagged with the unfortunate “rage syndrome” label, especially if it was a spaniel of any type. We have since come to our senses, and now investigate much more carefully before concluding that there is truly “no known cause” for a dog’s aggression.

A thorough exploration of the dog’s behavior history and owner’s observations often can ferret out explainable causes for the aggression. The appropriate diagnosis often turns out to be status-related aggression (once widely known as “dominance aggression”) and/or resource guarding – both of which can also generate very violent, explosive reactions. (See “Eliminate Aggressive Dog Guarding Behaviors,” WDJ September 2001.)

An owner can easily miss her dog’s warning signs prior to a status-related attack, especially if the warning signs have been suppressed by prior physical or verbal punishment. While some dogs’ lists of guardable resources may be limited and precise, with others it can be difficult to identify and recognize a resource that a dog has determined to be valuable and worth guarding. The glazed look reported by some owners may also be their interpretation of the “hard stare” or “freeze” that many dogs give as a warning signal just prior to an attack.

Although the true cause of idiopathic aggression is still not understood, and behaviorists each tend to defend their favorite theories, there is universal agreement that it is a very rare condition, and one that is extremely difficult to treat.

Idiopathic Aggression Theories

A variety of studies and testing over the past 30 years have failed to produce a clear cause or a definitive diagnosis for idiopathic aggression. Behaviorists can’t even agree on what to call it! (See The Evolving Vocabulary of Aggression, below.)

Given the failure to find a specific cause, it is quite possible that there are several different causes for unexplainable aggressive behaviors that are all grouped under the term “idiopathic aggression.” Some dogs in the midst of an episode may foam at the mouth and twitch, which could be an indication of epileptic seizures. The most common appearance of the behavior between 1-3 years of age also coincides with the appearance of most status-related aggression, as well as the development of idiopathic epilepsy, making it even impossible to use age of onset as a differential diagnosis.

Some researchers have found abnormal electroencephalogram readings in some dogs suspected of having idiopathic aggression, but not all such dogs they studied. Other researchers have been unable to reproduce even those inconclusive results.

Another theory is that the behavior is caused by damage to the area of the brain responsible for aggressive behavior. Yet another is that it is actually a manifestation of status-related aggression triggered by very subtle stimuli. Clearly, we just don’t know.

The fact that idiopathic aggression by definition cannot be induced also makes it difficult to study and even try to find answers to the question of cause. Unlike a behavior like resource guarding – which is easy to induce and therefore easy to study in a clinical setting – the very nature of idiopathic aggression dictates that it cannot be reproduced or studied at will.

Rage Syndrome Treatment

Without knowing the cause of idiopathic aggression, treatment is difficult and frequently unsuccessful. The condition is also virtually impossible to manage safely because of the sheer unpredictability of the outbursts. The prognosis, unfortunately, is very poor, and many dogs with true idiopathic aggression must be euthanized, for the safety of surrounding humans.

Don’t despair, however, if someone has told you your dog has “rage syndrome.” First of all, he probably doesn’t. Remember, the condition is extremely rare, and the label still gets applies all too often by uneducated dog folk to canines whose aggressive behaviors are perfectly explainable by a more knowledgeable observer.

Your first step is to find a skilled and positive trainer/behavior consultant who can give you a more educated analysis of your dog’s aggression. A good behavior modification program, applied by a committed owner in consultation with a capable behavior professional can succeed in decreasing and/or resolving many aggression cases, and help you devise appropriate management plans where necessary, to keep family members, friends, and visitors safe.

If your behavior professional also believes that you have a rare case of idiopathic aggression on your hands, then a trip to a veterinary behaviorist is in order. Some dogs will respond to drug therapies for this condition; many will not. Some minor success has been reported with the administration of phenobarbital, but it is unclear as to whether the results are from the sedative effect of the drug, or if there is an actual therapeutic effect.

In many cases of true idiopathic aggression, euthanasia is the only solution. Because the aggressive explosions are truly violent and totally unpredictable, it is neither safe nor fair to expose yourself or other friends and family to the potentially disfiguring, even deadly, results of such an attack. If this is the sad conclusion in the case of your dog, euthanasia is the only humane option. Comfort yourself with the knowledge you have done everything possible for him, hold him close as you say goodbye, and send him gently to a safer place. Then take good care of yourself.

The Evolving Vocabulary of Aggression

Different behaviorists and trainers have used and continue to use different terms for what was once commonly known as “rage syndrome.” The confusion over what to call it is a reflection of how poorly understood the condition is:

Rage syndrome – This once popular term has fallen into disfavor, due to its overuse, misuse, and poor characterization of the actual condition

Idiopathic aggression – Now the most popular term among behaviorists; this name clearly says “we don’t know what it is”

Low-threshold dominance aggression – Favored by those who hold that idiopathic aggression is actually a manifestation of status-related aggression with very subtle triggers

Mental lapse aggression syndrome – Attached to cases diagnosed as a result of certain electroencephalogram readings (low-voltage, fast activity)

Stimulus responsive psychomotor epilepsy – Favored by some who suspect that idiopathic aggression is actually epileptic seizure activity

“Rage syndrome” is not the only aggression term that has undergone a metamorphosis in recent years. Even the way we look at aggression is changing. Where once each “classification” of aggression was seen as very distinct, with its own distinct protocols for treatment, it is becoming more widely recognized that most aggressive behavior is caused by stress or anxiety.

It is now generally accepted by the training and behavior profession that physical punishment should not be used in an attempt to suppress aggressive behavior. Rather, aggressive behavior is best managed by preventing the dog’s exposure to his individual stressors, and modified by creating a structured environment for the dog – through a “Say Please” or “Nothing in Life Is Free” program – and implementing a solid protocol of counter-conditioning and desensitization to reduce or eliminate the dog’s aggressive reaction to those stressors.

We also now recognize that aggressive dogs may behave inappropriately and dangerously as a result of imbalances in brain chemicals, and that the new generation of drugs used in behavior modification work help rebalance those chemicals. This is in stark contrast to older drugs, such as Valium, that simply sedated the dog rather than providing any real therapy. As a result, many behaviorists recommend the use of pharmaceutical intervention sooner, rather than later, in aggression cases.

Here are some of the newer terms now in use to describe various types of aggressive behavior:

Status-related aggression: Once called dominance aggression, a term still widely used. Status-related aggression focuses more on getting the confident highranking dog to behave appropriately regardless of status; old methods of dealing with dominance aggression often focused on trying to reduce the dog’s status, often without success.

Fear-related aggression: Once called submission aggression. A dog who is fearful may display deferent (submissive) behaviors in an attempt to ward off the fearinducing stress. If those signals are ignored and the threat advances – a child, for example, trying to hug a dog who is backing away, ears flattened – aggression can occur.

Possession aggression: Previously referred to as food guarding and now also appropriately called resource guarding, this name change acknowledges that a dog may guard many objects in addition to his food – anything he considers a valuable resource, including but not limited to toys, beds, desirable locations, and proximity to humans.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Yucca Root for Canine Arthritis Pain

By
Gregory L. Tilford
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3

[Updated March 29, 2018]

YUCCA ROOT FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Consider a yucca supplement for a dog with digestive problems that prevent him from properly utilizing his already top-quality diet, or for a dog with arthritis.

2. Use yucca for four days, and then discontinue for three days. An on-and-off-again schedule will help prevent irritation of digestive tissues.

3. Discontinue the use of yucca if the dog exhibits digestive upset such as vomiting and discuss this with your holistic veterinarian.

When valuable herbs gain momentous popularity in the mainstream marketplace they often show up as “buzz words” on various product labels. By market decree such herbs become not only popular, but stylish. After all, why would anyone want to buy an herbal cold remedy that doesn’t contain the mighty echinacea?

Usually when mass-market, celebrity herbs are born, oceans of research and published introspection soon follows to satisfy the curiosities of the consumer. We want to know why certain herbs keep showing up in the products we buy and use, and rightly so. Nevertheless, many herbs remain as ambiguous words on the labels of our favorite animal care products.

yucca root for sale at market

By San906 (Own work) [CC0]

Why is this so? Because manufacturers are largely prohibited, by federal regulations, to provide any tangible clues about the medicinal or nutritive attributes of the herb ingredients they list on their animal product labels.

One of the best examples of this is yucca – a succulent, cactus-like member of the lily family that inhabits desert areas and garden landscapes throughout America. Anyone who has studied natural dog and cat food labels, shampoo labels, and ingredient lists for livestock feeds has seen the name of this important plant food and medicine, yet very few of us can cite its intended purpose, much less a broad view of its holistic potential.

Yucca as a Nutritional Aid to Dogs

The description “nutritional supplement” really doesn’t fit yucca as well as the term “nutritional aid.” Although yucca root contains notable quantities of vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, manganese, niacin, phosphorous, protein, and B vitamins, this herb’s greatest nutritive and healing powers are chiefly attributable to a group of compounds collectively known of as saponins, which are found in the root of yucca.

Saponins are plant glycosides, which are characterized by their tendency to dramatically foam up when agitated with water, much like soap does. When ingested in very small amounts with food, saponins contribute a cleansing and penetrating action upon mucous membranes of the small intestine, which in turn helps with the assimilation of important minerals and vitamins through intestinal walls.

The results can be astounding. In studies conducted at Colorado State University, cattle fed small quantities of yucca root showed greater weight gain than those without. Other trials have concluded that chickens that are fed yucca have a tendency to lay more eggs, and dairy cattle tend to produce more milk.

Other research shows that when added to dog food, yucca can help reduce the emission of noxious odors in urine and feces. This finding comes from studies in which the chemical breakdown of urea (the body’s final by-product of digested proteins) were examined. The findings: anhydrous ammonia, which is largely responsible for the less-than-delightful odor of animal excrement is caused by a single microbial enzyme called urease, was inhibited when food supplements containing preparations of Yucca schidigera were fed. In the studies, fecal and urine odors were reduced by up to 56 percent in dogs and 49 percent in cats.

While the notion of less-offensive stool and less yard cleanup is attractive to many, the issue of excess urease should not go unchecked, as this kind of imbalance may lead to health problems that are much more serious than a soiled backyard.

Excess urea (and larger, more offensive stools) are often the result of a poor quality diet, where protein fillers (like soy meal) or cheap meat by-products cannot be efficiently broken down and eliminated during the digestive process. If left unchecked, this can lead to serious problems, such as urinary stones, kidney disease, arthritis, or chronic skin problems.

In other words, feed a balanced, natural diet, and excess fecal and urine odor shouldn’t be an issue in the first place.

My bottom line: yucca root can be helpful for optimizing a good quality diet that has been specially tailored to the needs of dogs that need added help with nutrient absorption. However, yucca really has no value as a supplement to lousy food.

Steroidal Effects of Yucca

Yucca root also possesses chemistries that add powerful medicinal activities to the veterinary herbalist’s goodie bag. Among these chemistries are sarsasapogenin, smilagenin, and various other compounds that are loosely known by the herbal/scientist community as “phytosterols.”

Herbalists theorize that phytosterols serve the body by stimulating and assisting the body in the use and production of natural corticosteroids and corticosteroid-related hormones. Unlike corticosteroid drugs such as prednisone, yucca is thought to work in concert with natural autoimmune functions of the body – actually supporting immune system functions as opposed to shutting them down.

It can be reasonably hypothesized that the natural, corticosteroid-like actions of yucca may play a role in the body’s natural production of growth hormones, which in turn may contribute significantly to the accelerated growth and production we see in animals that receive it in their food. And although this theory has not been established as “fact” by the scientific community, we know that yucca is very safe in the diet when fed in moderation and in a sensible manner.

What all of this means is that yucca can be a very useful natural remedy in the treatment of arthritis.

In a study conducted at the beginning of the twentieth century, yucca was found to bring about safe and effective relief (from pain and inflammation) to human arthritis patients when taken four times daily over a period of time. Although this study has been repeatedly discredited by the American Arthritis Foundation because of the contro-versial manner by which the study was conducted, the beneficial effects of yucca in humans and animals remain clearly validated in the minds of holistic practitioners who have repeatedly used it and witnessed positive results.

In my experiences with monitoring the therapeutic effects of yucca root in arthritic dogs, yucca can be very useful toward reducing inflammation of the knees and hips, especially when the herb is used concurrently with liquid extracts of licorice root (Glycyrrhizza spp.), alfalfa, and a liquid glucosamine supplement. Part of this may be attributable to the improved assimilation of glucosamine, another possible attribute of yucca’s amazing saponin constituents.

Undiscovered Values of Yucca Root for Dogs

Although scientists largely remain focused on the saponin constituents of yucca, it is obvious that there is much to discover about several other compounds within this plant. Native Americans used the roots, leaves, and flowers in a wide variety of applications, ranging from burns and digestive disorders to contraceptive applications.

A water extract (tea) of Yucca glauca (“small yucca” or “soapweed”) has been shown to have anti-tumor activity against a certain type of melanoma in mice. Its mechanism in this context is believed to stem from its polysaccharide constituents, not necessarily its steroidal saponins.

Perhaps most famously, yucca’s high saponin content has been widely exploited to make soap and shampoos.

A Few Words of Caution

Yucca root is classified by FDA and the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) as “Generally Regarded as Safe” (GRAS) for use in animal feeds and supplements. Yucca root powders, extracts, and other preparations can be used very safely in dogs and other mammals. Nevertheless, several controversies have been raised over the years concerning the safety of yucca’s saponin constituents.

Many of these concerns stem from cases of intestinal bloating or photosensitivity in livestock. Most of these events were triggered when too much saponin-rich, fresh alfalfa was fed while the plants were in bloom (alfalfa should only be harvested and fed prior to blooming).

There have also been reports of bloating and other digestive problems that have been attributed, at least in part, to cheap, fibrous, saponin-rich vegetable by-products (such as beet pulp) that are used in lieu of whole vegetables in commercial dog foods.

Then there are the numerous scientific studies in which animal subjects suffered digestive distress when they ingested (or were force-fed) isolated saponin compounds in chemical concentrations far exceeding than those naturally found in yucca root, or for that matter, any other herb. Such an experiment, in my mind, only proves that animals (and humans) shouldn’t eat soap.

Saponin is found in many of the vegetables we eat and frequently feed to our dogs (including yams, beets, and alfalfa sprouts), yet a few outspoken individuals insist that anything that contains saponin must be harmful. This is simply not true. Virtually anything will produce a toxic reaction if ingested in too much abundance, including herbs and vegetables.

Common sense rules here. Too much of virtually anything will likely cause some sort of toxic reaction, and yucca root is no exception. Remember this: Yucca is also known as “soapweed.” If used in excessive amounts over an extended period of time, yucca may eventually irritate the stomach lining and the intestinal mucosa. This in turn may cause vomiting. In fact, many of the Native American tribes of the southwest used yucca preparations to induce vomiting in cases of food poisoning. If vomiting or any other adverse effect is observed, discontinue use.

Yucca Dosage for Dogs

Although yucca has become a popular additive in pet foods, I do not feed foods that contain more than two percent yucca root on a daily basis unless a therapeutic purpose for a higher dose has been identified by a holistic pet care professional.

It is best to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations of yucca supplements that are formulated specifically for dogs. Yucca products vary according to their concentrations and added ingredients. If the product you buy does not have a suggested feeding amount on its label, then call the manufacturer or shop for a different brand.

As a food supplement for dogs with suspected malabsorption: Mix ¼ – ½ tsp. of dried, powdered yucca root (available at health food stores) to each pound of food fed each day. Feed on a schedule of four days on, three days off each week; this will help prevent overstimulation and subsequent irritation of digestive tissues that may otherwise occur with long term use.

As an anti-inflammatory and tonic for dogs with arthritis: Use a liquid tincture product that has been specifically formulated for use in dogs, and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations or the advice of your holistic veterinarian.

Alternatively, an alcohol-free liquid extract can be used. Again, buy one that is formulated for dogs and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Greg Tilford is a well-known expert in the field of veterinary herblism. An international lecturer and teacher of veterinarians and pet owners alike, Greg has written four books on herbs, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets, (Bowie Press, 1999), which he coauthored with his wife, Mary.

Do Your Homework

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

by C. C. Holland

For Walt Cooper and his yellow Labrador Retriever, Sandy, a little sneezing turned into a big health problem. But by embracing a holistic approach that included both traditional veterinary medicine and a naturopathic element, Cooper has managed to extend his companion’s lease on life and keep her as happy and healthy as possible.

Walt Cooper, 60, a radio programmer living in Liverpool, New York, has shared his life with dogs for many years, but has a special affinity for yellow Labs. Sandy, his third yellow Lab, has been his beloved companion since late 1992, when he got her as a pup.

“She’s like talking to a human being,” says Cooper. “We’re very bonded. She has great enthusiasm.”

As a conscientious owner, Cooper was quick to notice when Sandy, then 10, began sneezing in June of 2003; occasionally, the discharge would have a bloody tinge. Instead of a simple foxtail or other foreign object in her nose, Cooper’s veterinarian discovered a mass in one of Sandy’s nasal cavities. The preliminary diagnosis was hemangioma, which is a benign lump formed by dilated small blood vessels in the skin. Although they’re not normally considered dangerous, Cooper agreed to a biopsy – just in case.

The pathology report came back with encouraging news, confirming the mass as benign. But Cooper had a gut feeling that he couldn’t ignore, and he decided to seek a second opinion for his beloved dog at the nearby Cornell University Hospital for Animals. “As we were getting this report, we thought we’d better get into Cornell just in case,” he says.

Cooper and Sandy made an appointment with Cornell’s oncology department, and agreed to a CT scan, blood tests, and additional biopsies. “They took 10 or 12 samples, and then we had a problem because (her left) eye became filled with blood because of the procedure,” says Cooper. “So she was in pretty bad shape at Cornell.”

Then came the kicker. The veterinarians at Cornell gave Cooper a revised diagnosis: Rather than a benign hemangioma, they said, Sandy was suffering from hemangioendo-thelioma – a rare type of cancer. Even worse, the CT scan revealed it was spreading into adjacent tissues.

“Hemangioendothelioma is an unusual diagnosis,” says Blaise Burke, DVM, a resident in radiation and medical oncology at Cornell’s veterinary hospital and Sandy’s primary clinician. “The most common types of tumors in dogs in the nasal cavity are adenocarcinomas. I don’t believe such a thing as hemangioendothelioma (in the nose) has ever been reported in the literature.”

Because of the proximity of the mass to Sandy’s eyes and brain and the fact that it was already spreading, attempting to excise the tumor wasn’t an option. Instead, Dr. Burke prescribed a course of radiation treatment – and he warned Cooper that Sandy’s future might be grim.

“This is a tumor with a rather poor prognosis, (with) a median survival time of around three months,” explains Dr. Burke. Cooper was told Sandy might have 8 to 12 weeks left to live at best.

Cooper agreed to let Sandy undergo radiation therapy in an effort to slow the spread of the tumor. However, after five of the six procedures were completed, he discontinued the treatment due to concern over some serious side effects.

“Her eye hemorrhaged, there were ulcers in her mouth . . . it was bad,” says Cooper. Sandy also developed conjunctivitis in response to the radiation. In the space of a couple of months, Sandy went from a happy, healthy dog to a cancer patient who was taking steroids, several types of antibiotic drugs, and painkillers.

Research begins
In an effort to help combat the effects of some of the drugs, Cooper began looking into some nutritional options. Sandy had already been on some basic supplements to help with her arthritis, including a glucosamine/chondroitin/MSM supplement, so Cooper wasn’t a stranger to the idea and knew where to start.

“I figured the first thing was to get good bacteria back into the body, because of the antibiotics, so I started with yogurt and cottage cheese,” he said. Then he stumbled across some information about turmeric (also known as curcumin), a spice used in many curries; some studies had found turmeric reduced tumor size. He figured, since the conventional veterinary treatment options for the cancer were nearly exhausted – additional rounds of radiation therapy were not recommended – why not try this? After checking things out thoroughly, he added turmeric to Sandy’s diet as well. Soon, Cooper became an avid researcher.

“I started talking to different people and reading different publications; I didn’t just go off and just do stuff (indiscriminately),” he said. “I would have to hear it in triplicate, from at least three sources, and also for canines, and make sure everything was right.”

Cooper looked up medical studies, read articles from journals and magazines (including WDJ), visited Web sites, and experimented with mixing different additives and supplements into Sandy’s diet. Her daily rations soon included things like flax seed oil, milk thistle extract, MSM, Ester-C, garlic, digestive enzymes, and a host of other supplements (see sidebar). Cooper’s goal: “To keep the immune system working as well as possible.”

Keeping Sandy happy
The approach appears to have paid off. “She’s lasted this long, we’ve been lucky,” says Cooper. “They said if she made it to Labor Day (2003), she’d be lucky.”

As of April 2004, Sandy is still battling eye problems and occasional nosebleeds, but she is active and happy. “She’s about 60 pounds, no fat, has a nice waistline, good teeth, her eyes are doing pretty good, and her appetite’s good,” says Cooper.

Walt maintains that a regular exercise regimen has also contributed to Sandy’s good spirits and thus, her robust immune system. “We play ball 10 minutes in the morning, 15 minutes at night, plus walking, so she stays in top physical shape,” he says. “Even when she was quite ill and feeling bad, a little ball-playing would perk her up, even if we were just rolling the ball for her a short distance in the house.”

Sandy’s veterinarians are also pleased with her condition.

“We’ve seen Sandy quite a bit, and we’ve all been really pleasantly surprised at how long she’s been going, given the kind of tumor and its location,” says Dr. Burke. “I think she’s looking pretty, she has good energy, good appetite, and her quality of life – in spite of her disease – is pretty good.”

On his own
Dr. Burke credits Sandy’s state of health, at least in part, to her radiation treatments. But he doesn’t know about Sandy’s steady diet of supplements, because Cooper hasn’t shared that information with him.

“I didn’t really think about it,” says Cooper, when asked why. “With most vets, if you tell them you’re using supplements, they’ll just say if it works, it works. Most vets I know don’t really mention anything alternative medicine all that often, unless they’re into that sort of thing.”

But wasn’t he concerned about possible interactions with her medical therapy? “When I started, given the seriousness of the diagnosis, they offered very little hope that she would live very long. And I just wanted to do anything I could to reduce the side effects of the medications she was on. Plus, it gave me something more that I could do for her. Honestly, I didn’t know that much about all of it when I started. But it was so successful – from the beginning, she did better than they predicted she would – that I got more and more into it, and started researching all sorts of things,” says Cooper. “I didn’t know that much when I started, but I sure know a lot now.”

As a general rule, it’s not a good idea to use herbs or an extensive supplement regimen without your veterinarian’s blessing, or at least his knowledge. Unless an owner is very knowledgeable about dosages, expected effects, possible side effects, potential drug interactions, the ways that the herbs or supplements can affect the drug dosages, etc., he could unwittingly cause a problem that neither he (nor the unsuspecting veterinarian) would be able to address appropriately.

This is where the assistance of a holistic veterinarian can be a huge asset. Many dog owners utilize the services of a conventional practitioner for emergency and/or primary care and diagnosis, and a holistic practitioner for advice about alternative or complementary treatments. At least one member of your dog’s healthcare “team” should be experienced and knowledgable about nutritional supplements and herbal treatments. (See “Coordinating Care,” WDJ May 2002.)

Walt researches the supplements and herbs he administers as well as the vet-prescribed drugs very thoroughly, watches his dog like a hawk, and feels confident that he could detect signs of a problem and take appropriate steps. Again, in most cases, if the dog’s primary care veterinarian uses only conventional medicine and is unsympathetic, uninterested, or even opposed to the use of adjunctive complementary therapies, an owner should consult with another veterinarian who is familiar with both the complementary and conventional regimes the dog will receive.

In Cooper’s case, extraordinary research was the name of the game. Cooper relies on scientific studies that he finds online, information from reputable publications and Web sites, and consultations with veterinary clinicians – and he warns anyone interested that it’s hard work.

“For anyone getting into this, you really have to read up on things,” he says. “Go to the Internet and download any (scientific study) abstracts you can get. Check everything out. I’d have to verify something two or three times before I’d give it to my dog, and then have to figure out the amount.”

Nothing better than vigilance
Another important part of Sandy’s success has been her owner’s unfailing ability to observe the slightest change in her condition or frame of mind. Cooper is quick to note any changes in Sandy’s demeanor and behavior and take action as soon as possible. For example, he recently discontinued many supplements – all the ones that can thin the blood – after she had some bloody discharge following sneezing. Also, he doesn’t hesitate to check in with his veterinarians, or whisk Sandy into the clinic if he sees anything awry.

Despite being unaware of the nutritional components of Sandy’s care, Dr. Burke recognizes that Cooper is the type of owner who’s willing to do anything it takes to improve his dog’s situation.

“Walt seems very diligent about watching her for any changes, and he will be quick to bring them to our attention,” says Dr. Burke. “I think his goals are to keep her comfortable and as happy as he can keep her for as long as possible. He’s really taken good care of her and it’s been a real pleasure to work with him.”

Beyond expectations
There’s no way of knowing the state of Sandy’s cancer without conducting another CT scan or chest X-rays, and Cooper has opted not to do that thus far, based both on expense and the fact that even if tests show the cancer has spread, there’s nothing more medically that can be done. But he is encouraged by the results he’s seen so far.

“Every time I’ve gotten to a roadblock and have exhausted everything I’ve read, somehow, somewhere, I either pick up an article or come up with something else that can help,” he says. “I call Sandy the comeback kid, because every time I think we’re at the end, something good happens.”

Holistic dog care means using everything at your disposal: attentive dog care, quick action, conventional veterinary medicine, high-tech innovations, alternative and complementary medicine where applicable, and sympathetic, sensitive nursing with the dog’s preferences and quality of life foremost in mind. We admit that this takes an extraordinary owner.

Walt Cooper embodies this description perfectly. But he brushes any such compliments off. “I’d do just about anything for this dog,” he says.

-C.C. Holland is a freelance writer in Oakland, California, and regular contributor to WDJ.

Dog Ear Infection

By
CJ Puotinen
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9
dog ear infection

DOG EAR INFECTION: OVERVIEW

1. Keep your dog’s ears clean. Use a gentle cleaning agent such as green tea, or a commercial product such as Halo’s Natural Herbal Ear Wash.

2. Use a pinch of boric acid to keep the dog’s ears dry and acidified.

3. Consult your holistic veterinarian in cases of severe or chronic infections; she may need to treat an underlying condition.

Chronic dog ear infections are the bane of long-eared dogs, swimming dogs, recently vaccinated puppies, old dogs, dogs with an abundance of ear wax, and dogs with allergies, thyroid imbalances, or immune system disorders. In other words, ear infections are among the most common recurring canine problems.

In conventional veterinary medicine, a dog ear infection can often be treated with oral antibiotics, topical drugs, or even surgery. The problem is that none of these treatments is a cure. Ear infections come back when the dog eats another “wrong” food, goes for another swim, experiences another buildup of excess wax, or in some other way triggers a reoccurrence.

Canine Ear Infections

Holistic veterinarian Stacey Hershman, of Nyack, New York, took an interest in dog ear infections when she became a veterinary technician in her teens. “This is a subject that isn’t covered much in vet school,” she says. “I learned about treating ear infections from the veterinarians I worked with over the years. Because they all had different techniques, I saw dozens of different treatments, and I kept track of what worked and what didn’t.”

Over the years, Dr. Hershman developed a program for keeping ears healthy and treating any problems that do arise, without the steroids and antibiotics usually dispensed by conventional practitioners. In addition, when she treats a dog with infected ears, she usually gives a homeopathic remedy to stimulate the dog’s immune system and help it fight the infection’s underlying cause.

“Ear infections are a symptom of a larger problem,” she says. “You don’t want to just treat the ear and ignore the rest of the body. You want to treat the whole patient.”

Dr. Hershman believes that many dog ear infections, especially in puppies, stem from immune system imbalances caused by vaccinosis, a reaction to vaccines. “The ill effects of vaccines,” she says, “can cause mucoid discharge in puppies. For example, it’s not uncommon for puppies to have a discharge from the eyes or to develop conjunctivitis after a distemper vaccine.”

Once a dog develops an ear infection, conventional treatment can make the problem worse. “Dogs are routinely given cocktail drugs, which are combinations of antibiotics, antifungal drugs, cortisone, or other ingredients,” she explains.

“After a while, you’ll go through 10 tubes, and your dog will develop a resistance. Then you’ll have to go to more powerful drugs to treat the recurring infection. In conventional veterinary medicine, chronic ear infections are considered normal. Dog owners are told they’re a fact of life, they’re never cured, they just keep coming back, and the best you can do is ‘manage’ them. My goal is to cure, not to manage.”

Dr. Hershman’s treatment for infected ears is not a cure by itself, but it’s a remedy that isn’t harmful, and it gives you an important kick-start in treating ears holistically. “That’s the approach that leads to a cure,” she says.

Note: If your dog develops an ear infection for the first time, or if his condition seems especially severe or painful, take him to see your holistic veterinarian, to rule out a tumor, polyp, or something else that requires veterinary attention.

Maintenance Ear Cleaning

Dr. Hershman’s healthy ears program starts with maintenance cleaning with ordinary cotton balls and cotton swabs. “This makes a lot of people nervous,” she says, “but the canine ear canal isn’t straight like the canal in our ears. Assuming you’re reasonably gentle, you can’t puncture the ear drum or do any structural damage.”

Moisten the ear with green tea brewed as for drinking and cooled to room temperature, or use an acidic ear cleanser that does not contain alcohol. Dr. Hershman likes green tea for its mildness and its acidifying, antibacterial properties, but she also recommends peach-scented DermaPet MalAcetic Otic Ear Cleanser or Halo Natural Herbal Ear Wash.

“Don’t pour the cleanser into the dog’s ear,” she warns, “or it will just wash debris down and sit on the ear drum, irritating it.” Instead, she says, lift the dog’s ear flap while holding a moistened cotton ball between your thumb and index finger. Push the cotton down the opening behind the tragus (the horizontal ridge you see when you lift the ear flap) and scoop upward. Use a few dry cotton balls to clean out normal waxy buildup.

Next, push a Q-tip into the vertical ear canal until it stops, then scoop upward while rubbing it against the walls of the vertical canal. Repeat several times, rubbing on different sides of the vertical canal. Depending on how much debris is present in each ear, you can moisten one or several cotton balls and use two or more Q-tips.

“You don’t want to push so hard that you cause pain,” she says, “but for maintenance cleaning using gentle pressure, it’s impossible to harm the eardrum. I refer to the external ear canal as an L-shaped tunnel, and I tell owners to think of the vertical canal as a cone of cartilage. People are always amazed at how deep the dog’s ear canal can go. I often have them hold the end of the Q-tip while I demonstrate cleaning so they feel confident about doing it correctly without hurting their dogs.”

If excessive discharge requires the use of five or more Q-tips, or if the discharge is thick, black, or malodorous, Dr. Hershman recommends an ear flush.

Dogster.com offers another protocol for cleaning your dog’s ears here.

Washing Out Debris from Your Dog’s Ears

Dr. Hershman realized that when an ear is not inflamed and not painful but full of debris or tarry exudates from a yeast or bacterial infection, flushing the ear makes sense. “If you don’t flush it out but keep applying medication on top of the debris,” she says, “you’re never going to cure the problem. But I also learned that flushing the ear is an art. You can’t simply fill the ear with otic solution and expect it to flow out by itself, taking all the debris with it. Because the dog’s ear canal forms a right angle, you just can’t get the liquid out unless you suction it gently with a bulb syringe or some kind of tube with a syringe attached.”

Flushing the ears, says Dr. Hershman, is one of the most important techniques you can learn for keeping your dog’s ears healthy. “They don’t teach this in veterinary school,” she says. “It’s something people learn by experience.”

When should the ears not be flushed? “If they’re painful, ulcerated, or bleeding,” she says, “or if there’s slimy, slippery pus in the ear or a glutenous, yeasty, golden yellow discharge. In any of these cases, flushing is not recommended. But if the ears are not inflamed and are simply waxy or filled with tarry exudates, flushing works well.”

The procedure begins with a mild, natural, unscented liquid soap from the health food store. Place a few drops of full-strength soap in the ear, then thoroughly massage the base of the ear. The soap is a surfactant, and it breaks up debris that’s stuck to the sides of the ear canal. From a bowl of water that’s slightly warmer than body temperature, fill a rubber bulb syringe or ear syringe, the kind sold in pharmacies for use with children or adults. Place the point of the syringe deep down in the soap-treated ear, then slowly squeeze the syringe so it releases a gentle stream of water.

“By the first or second application,” says Dr. Hershman, “you should see all kinds of debris flowing out. It’s like a waterfall. At the end of each application, hold the syringe in place so it sucks remaining water and debris up out of the ear canal. Then empty the syringe before filling it again.”

For seriously debris-filled ears, Dr. Hershman repeats the procedure three or four times, then she lets the dog shake his head before drying the ear with cotton balls and Q-tips. “I look for blood or debris,” she says, “and I check inside with the otoscope. If there’s still a lot of debris, I put more soap in, do a more vigorous massage, and flush it a few more times.

“An ear flush can be traumatic if the ear is inflamed,” she warns, “and occasionally there will be an ulcer or sore that you don’t know is there and it will bleed. That’s why you have to be careful about how you do this. You have to be vigorous but not aggressive. You don’t want to make the ear more inflamed, painful, or damaged than it was to begin with.”

After flushing the ear, Dr. Hershman applies calendula gel, a homeopathic remedy. “I put a large dab in each ear and ask the owner to do that once or twice a day for the next three days. The gel is water-soluble and very soothing. Calendula helps relieve itching and it stimulates the growth of new cells, so it speeds tissue repair.”

If the discharge in the dog’s ear is yeasty or obviously infected, Dr. Hershman skips the ear flush, instead using the following treatment.

Treating Dog Ear Infections

Careful treatment is required for infected ears and ears that are full of debris that resists even an ear flush. But what approach works best?

When Dr. Hershman began her veterinary practice, she met many dogs who wouldn’t let anyone touch their ears. “I knew that nothing I’d learned in vet school was going to help them,” she says, “so I thought back to all the treatments I’d seen over the years. The one that seemed most effective was a combination of boric acid and a thick, old-fashioned ointment that looks like pink toothpaste. I couldn’t remember its name, but I never forgot how it smelled – really peculiar, like burnt embers.”

The ointment was Pellitol, and as soon as she tracked it down, Dr. Hershman developed her own protocol for using it in combination with boric acid. Through groomers she had learned the importance of ear powders. “Like those powders,” she says, “boric acid dries and acidifies the ear. Yeast and bacteria are opportunistic organisms that die in a dry, acidic environment. They thrive where it’s moist, dark, and alkaline.”

Experimenting first with her own dogs and dogs at the animal shelter where she volunteered, she placed two or three pinches of boric acid powder in each infected ear unless it was ulcerated, bleeding, or painful. “Being acidic,” she explains, “boric acid might irritate open wounds. In that case, I would use the Pellitol alone. Otherwise, a pinch or two of boric acid is an effective preliminary treatment.”

Boric acid is toxic; note warnings on the label. It should not be inhaled, swallowed, or placed in the eye. Shielding the face is important and usually requires a helper, someone who can hold the dog’s head steady while protecting the eyes, nose, and mouth.

“I put the boric acid in and use my finger to work it deep into the ear canal,” she says. “If the dog has a very narrow ear canal, I gently work it down with a Q-tip.”

Next, she attaches the Pellitol applicator to the tube and squeezes the pasty ointment into the ear canal, applying enough pressure as she withdraws the tube to completely fill the canal. “I massage the ear,” she says, “especially around the base, then leave it undisturbed for an entire week. I learned this by trial and error. The Pellitol dries up within a day or two, but if you leave it undisturbed for an entire week, it removes whatever exudates are in the ear, whether they’re sticky, tarry, yeasty, or slimy pus. It just attaches to whatever’s there, dries it up, and everything falls out together.”

Pellitol ointment contains zinc oxide, calamine, bismuth subgalante, bismuth subnitrate, resorcinol, echinacea fluid extract, and juniper tar. “Zinc oxide,” says Dr. Hershman, “is a drying agent; calamine helps with itching and inflammation; bismuth is soothing and has antibacterial properties; resorcinol is used to treat dermatitis and other skin conditions; echinacea is antiviral and antibacterial; and juniper tar, like all tree resins, fights infection and makes the ointment very sticky. Once applied, it stays in place until it dries and flakes off, taking the ear’s debris with it.”

After a week, the ear should be much improved. “That’s when I use cotton balls or Q-tips to remove whatever’s left,” says Dr. Hershman. “I love this treatment because it works well, it doesn’t traumatize the ear, and it doesn’t antidote homeopathy.”

If Pellitol has an adverse side effect, it’s the product’s stickiness. “I tell people to protect their furniture for a day or two,” says Hershman. “The ointment will stick to anything it touches, and when you fill the ear, it can stick to the outside of the ear or the dog’s face. That excess will dry and fall off. You can remove it with vegetable oil, but leave the inside of the ear flap alone.”

Sometimes a second treatment is needed, and sometimes Dr. Hershman flushes the ear to complete the therapy.

While dog owners can successfully treat many ear problems with the foregoing program by themselves, don’t hesitate to bring your dog to your holistic veterinarian if he exhibits severe pain or discomfort, or if the ear problems recur. There may be an underlying issue that your holistic veterinarian can identify and treat.

Also, there have been cases in which the alternatives described here don’t work. If this happens, conventional treatment might be needed to defeat the bacteria infecting the dog’s ear. Dr. Hershman’s cleaning and flushing program can be used afterward for preventive maintenance.

A NOTE ON PELLITOL: Since this article was originally published, Pellitol stopped being manufactured under that name. The same product is still sold, but have your veterinarian contact your pharmacy to make sure you are getting the right product.

Ear Mites

Not every ear infection is an infection; sometimes it’s an infestation. Ear mites are tiny parasites that suck blood and fill the ear with waste matter that looks like black coffee grounds. The problem is most common in dogs from pet shops, puppy mills, shelters, or breeders with unclean environments.

Ear mites are species-specific, meaning that feline ear mites prefer cats’ ears and canine ear mites prefer dogs’ ears. Their bites ulcerate the ear canal, often leading to secondary infections.

How can you tell if your dog has ear mites? The definitive test is by microscopic examination, but Dr. Hershman describes two simple home tests. “Smear some ear debris on a white paper towel and wet it with hydrogen peroxide,” she says. “If it creates a brownish red stain when you smear it, you’re looking at digested blood from mites. In addition, most animals with ear mites have a positive ‘thump test.’ They vigorously thump a hind leg when you clean their ears because of intense itching.”

Ear mites are usually treated with pesticides, but there’s a safer, easier way. Simply put a few drops of mineral oil in each ear once or twice a week for a month.

Mineral oil has a terrible reputation in holistic health circles because it’s a petrochemical that blocks pores and interferes with the skin’s ability to breathe. But when it comes to fighting ear mites, these characteristics are a virtue. Mineral oil smothers and starves ear mites. Reapplying the oil twice per week prevents the growth of new generations.

Note: Herbal ear oils containing olive oil or other vegetable oils can be less effective in the treatment of ear mites, either because they contain nutrients that feed the tiny parasites or because they are not heavy enough to smother them.

For best results, use an eyedropper to apply mineral oil to the inside of the ear. Then use a cotton ball saturated with mineral oil to wipe inside the ear flap. Massage the entire ear to be sure the mineral oil is well distributed. Before each subsequent application, remove debris from the ear with cotton balls and Q-tips.

If mites have caused a secondary infection, follow the mineral oil treatment with Pellitol ointment and leave it undisturbed for several days.

Veterinary Help for Chronic Ear Problems

If you are unsure of your ability to clean or treat your dog’s ears, you can ask your holistic veterinarian to help you; with a little practice, you should be able to prevent ear problems and help your dog maintain a clean, dry, healthy ear on your own.

“These are simple, old-fashioned remedies,” says Dr. Hershman. “There is nothing high-tech about them. But after 30 years of treating ear infections, I’m convinced more than ever that they are the best way to treat canine ear infections.”

CJ Puotinen is the author of  The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, both of which are available from DogWise. She has also authored several books about human health including Natural Relief from Aches and Pains.

Why You Should Switch Dog Foods Frequently

By
Nancy Kerns
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2

[Updated August 9, 2018]

Without a doubt, the most common question I am asked is “What kind of food should I feed my dog?”

Unfortunately, the answer is not simple. I try to teach dog owners to recognize the hallmarks of good quality foods, buy a bunch of them to try, identify a few that really suit their dogs, and then to rotate between three or four of the best. I suggest that they give their dogs one food for 2-4 months, and then switch to another food, and then another. Ideally, the foods are made by a few different manufacturers, and contain completely different protein sources, too.

Variability in Our Dogs’ Diets

All “complete and balanced” pet foods, even the ones made of the best ingredients, contain a premixed vitamin/mineral supplement. This is intended to ensure that the finished products contain a minimum amount of the nutrients deemed vital for canine health. This is needed because many of the nutrients present in the food ingredients are destroyed in the manufacturing process, and because it’s difficult (if not impossible) to find food sources of some nutrients, especially the trace minerals.

Despite the inclusion of the vitamin/mineral premixes, however, laboratory analysis of the finished pet food may reveal a wide range of levels for all the nutrients contained in the finished products. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) provides guidelines for minimum levels for most nutrients, and maximum levels (for a few others). Within this basic framework, however, manufacturers have a lot of room to formulate their products to different levels, based on their own research, experience, and philosophies.

In fact, an interested dog owner can find quite a bit of variability in the nutrient levels in different pet foods – that is, if the maker will disclose this sort of minutiae. (The ones that won’t disclose the amount of any given nutrient in their formula aren’t worth dealing with, in my opinion.)

For example, the AAFCO nutrient profiles call for a minimum of 50 IU of vitamin E per kg of food, and a maximum of 1,000 IU/kg (based on dry matter, which excludes the moisture in the food from the calculations). Nature’s Variety reports that its “Prairie Brand Chicken and Rice Medley” contains 116 IU of vitamin E per kg of food (on a dry matter basis); Natura Pet Products reports that its “Innova” dry dog food contains 271 IU/kg of vitamin E.

Dogs Are What They Eat, Too

The point is, many of us have been conditioned to feed our dogs the same food, day in and day out. We are warned by food manufacturers and veterinarians alike that it is pointless and even possibly dangerous somehow to change a dog’s food. But a dog who eats the same diet every day can eventually become the living embodiment of the nutritional levels ever-present in his diet. To prevent nutrient toxicity, deficiency, or imbalance, the simple solution is to feed a variety of high-quality foods.

This just makes sense. If a company’s products are high in one nutrient, conceivably, after years of daily consumption of that food alone, a dog could develop problems associated with excessive levels of that nutrient. Years and years of feeding a food that is formulated to offer just slightly more than the minimum of another nutrient may result in a dog with a deficiency of that nutrient. Imbalances of nutrients that are best fed in certain proportions to each other (such as the Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids) can also become entrenched in a dog’s body after years and years.

Smart Dog Food Switching

There are other reasons to change a dog’s food every few months or so. Switching from one source of protein to another occasionally can help prevent the development of food allergies or intolerances. It can also help prevent a dog from developing a stubborn preference for just one kind of food, which can be highly inconvenient.

When switching foods, spend a few days replacing the old food with the new in gradually larger proportions. This gives the dog’s digestive bacteria time to adjust to their new job, and should eliminate the gas or diarrhea that can sometimes accompany a sudden diet change.

Other than when you are switching from one food to another, it’s not a good idea to feed different foods at the same time. Your dog might enjoy a mix of half this and half that, but if he suddenly exhibits a digestive problem, it will be harder to track down the offending ingredients.

On a final note: Don’t hesitate to discontinue feeding any food your dog has a bad reaction to. No matter how much you trust its manufacturer, any product can suffer a dangerous manufacturing defect that could put your dog’s life at risk.

Download the Full May 2004 Issue

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All in the Family

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Most of the photos in WDJ run without credits because I take most of them and I don’t need credit. A few come to us from our article authors, such as herbalist Greg Tilford, who is a talented photographer and has an extraordinary collection of herb photos. Like other authors who have written about health conditions suffered by their own dogs, Maureen Finn, a writer whose first contribution to WDJ appears in this issue, sent along photos of her own dogs, one of whom has epilepsy, the topic of her piece.

But this month I have to give credit to one photographer, my brother, Keith Kerns. He got a new dog last year, a few months after he purchased a very nice, high-end digital camera, and the three of them (Keith, Hannah, and the camera) have been spending a lot of time together, with sometimes hilarious results. The photo of the dog biting the watermelon on the cover of this issue is Keith’s, and that’s Hannah. I haven’t met her in person yet, but I can tell from all the pictures Keith has e-mailed me that she’s a real character.

That’s also Hannah in the “Hot Dog” sidebar, sensibly wearing a WDJ-approved life jacket as she romps in the snowmelt Yuba River in the northern California Sierra Mountains. She’s been one of the lucky recipients of quite a bit of loot left over from WDJ’s product reviews, so she often appears in the pictures that Keith sends me wearing our favorite gear, such as the SENSE-Ation harness (Keith has found it very helpful in teaching Hannah not to pull), or carrying our recommended chew-resistant toys. I’m lucky to have her in the family, because she’s turned out to be quite a proficient product tester. And she’s yellow! – the best color for canine models, especially when their photos are reproduced in black and white.

Article scheduling snafus
On the back cover, I always list a few articles that are coming up within the next few issues. I usually list a couple that I expect to be in the next issue, and a couple that I have scheduled for the issue after that, but I don’t usually say which articles will run in which issue.

Sometimes, this makes people impatient; they want to know how long they may have to wait before they read about some topic or another. So last month, for the first time, I indicated which articles would run in which of the next few issues.

That was a big mistake! Immediately, certain events occurred to seemingly conspire against the publication of most of the articles that I wanted to run in the next issue; other articles came in ahead of schedule. Even I had to reschedule an article that was supposed to go in this issue (a review of healthy dog treats), after losing the better part of a work week to spend a few days in Boston dealing with a family emergency. (At the risk of tempting fate, I will say I anticipate having it be ready for the next issue.)

I sincerely apologize for the inconsistency, and hope this has not caused anyone any inconvenience.

 

-Nancy Kerns

Home Remedies For Your Dog’s Skin Inflammation

By
Gregory L. Tilford
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remedies for itchy skin in dogs

IRRITATED SKIN RELIEF FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. For fast, temporary relief of itchy skin that exhibits no change of appearance, liberally apply loose, soupy oatmeal or a cooled tea made with peppermint and/or lavender.

2. When itching is associated with minor redness, use a rinse made with herbs that speed healing and fight bacteria, such as chamomile, plantain, and/or calendula.

3. If your dog has open sores or scratches, use a rinse combining calendula and comfrey with sage, bee balm, thyme, and/or yarrow, to accelerate healing without harming beneficial microbes on the skin.

Winston, a four-year-old yellow Lab, is very happy. He got to go hiking with his human. But he is also itchy, and now he is chewing at little inflamed bumps on his chest and hind legs. Busting through underbrush in search of the ever-elusive cottontail, Winston picked up a few ticks. Luckily, his human always carries a fine-toothed flea comb when she walks in brush country with him, and she was able to remove the nasty blood suckers before they could dig in. Nevertheless, the ticks did get some bites in, leaving red, itchy, oozing bumps that may get infected if not treated.

home remedies for itchy skin for dogs

Katie Bell, a 10-year-old Schnauzer, has different problems. She is itchy all the time, especially on her tummy and the insides of her haunches. Her skin there is pink, hot to the touch, and sometimes looks cruddy, even though she is as clean as a rambunctious little dog can be.

Katie Bell’s people know that her chronic condition is likely due to deeper problems – perhaps with diet, allergy, or autoimmune dysfunction. They are working toward finding a lasting resolution to Katie Bell’s distress, but need to find symptomatic relief for her in the meantime. And they wish to avoid, at all cost, the risky option of corticosteroid drugs.

If you live in the world of dogs, chances are you will be confronted some day with a dog suffering from some sort itchy-chewy skin ailment. Fleas, ticks, sunburn, mites, cuts, mosquitoes, cat scratches (those are especially fun to get), thorns, poison ivy, and especially allergies are bound to wreak havoc at some time or another, and you should be prepared for it.

Although most chronic skin problems like Katie Bell’s are secondary to deeper issues, such as food or flea allergies or perhaps sensitivity to exogenous chemicals in the environment, most skin problems can be temporarily relieved with proper use of topical remedies. And you probably don’t need to travel far to find one. Soothing, healing relief can be as close as the kitchen spice cabinet if your companion is bothered by an acute irritation, such as a “told you so” bite inflicted by the dog-harassed, queen feline of the house (my dog Willow insists it’s worth it).

Topical Home Remedies for Dogs’ Itchy Skin

One of the quickest ways to reduce inflammation of the skin and itchiness is by use of herbal astringents.

Astringents work their magic by quickly tightening skin and subcutaneous tissue, and thereby reducing inflammation and redness. A classic example of such an astringent is witch hazel extract, which can be purchased in a clear liquid, distilled form at any drugstore. A dab or two of witch hazel applied by cotton ball can bring instant relief to angry flea or mosquito bites.

It is important to know that most commercial witch hazel extracts are made with isopropyl alcohol, a substance that is toxic if ingested in large enough amounts. This type of witch hazel should be reserved for uses where only a few dabs are needed (i.e., don’t rinse your dog with it). Better yet, look for witch hazel that is made with ethanol (grain alcohol, the type contained in consumable liquors) or vegetable glycerin, an edible coconut oil derivative that is used in natural soaps and cosmetics for its emollient, skin-soothing qualities.

Several choices of natural topical remedies are available at the pet supply store, too. For hot spots, irritations caused from a bandage or a rubbing collar, sunburned ears, or insect bites that are limited to just a few points on the body, you might try a spritz or two of Animal Apawthecary’s FidoDerm Herbal Spray at the affected areas. FidoDerm contains aloe vera and calendula to help promote healing, along with a nontoxic assortment of antibacterial and antifungal essential oils.

Alternatively, you might wish to go the homeopathic route, with a few drops of Animal Aid (available from Biomedrix, Inc.), which is a combination of 11 different homeopathic remedies plus aloe vera. Or you could try P15 Skin Relief by Newton Laboratories, Inc., which combines a dozen homeopathic remedies into a base of 15 percent alcohol.

Do these “shotgun approach” homeopathic combinations work? For an answer to that question I talked with Terri Grow, CEO and founder of PetSage, Inc., a retail catalog company that stocks hundreds of natural pet care products and offers classes on how to properly use them.

“My customers report that the Newton (P15 Skin Relief) product works especially well for chronic, itchy patches,” says Grow, “especially when given internally and applied externally simultaneously.” She says that the aforementioned Animal Aid product works better to speed healing of more acute issues, such as flea and insect bites. This makes sense to me as an herbalist; the formula is based with aloe vera, a time-proven healing agent.

All-Over Itchiness

home remedies for dog skin allergies itching

If your dog’s itching is body-wide and nonspecific, you may need to consider a full body rinse, or a natural anti-itch shampoo. Keep in mind, however, that there are no stand-alone “cure-alls” out there, and most topical products are designed to address specific conditions.

For instance, “skin and coat” products that are based with aloe vera may work great for healing wet, runny sores and oozing bites, but may be too drying for dogs with dry, flaky skin. In those cases, you are better off with products that contain vegetable oils, collagen, and herbs that promote skin healing without stripping natural body oils from the hair follicles.

One choice is AvoDerm Collagen Spray from Breeder’s Choice. This product contains avocado oil and collagen P-10, both of which are known for their skin-conditioning properties. Unfortunately, as with many pet care products, the other ingredients of the formula are not listed on the label; word on the street, however, is that this product works pretty well.

A good shampoo can bring relief, too, but keep in mind that “squeaky-clean” may not be what your dog needs. One of the biggest problems associated with frequent bathing is that many dog shampoos do their job too efficiently, cleansing the skin and coat of the waxy oils that are needed to maintain supple, healthy skin.

Of course, as I mentioned before, you may not need to buy commercial products at all. The remedy you need might already be in your home kitchen or garden. The following are a few of my favorite home brewed topical remedies. For dogs with itchy skin that exhibits little or no change of appearance (it just itches!), try a liberal application of oatmeal. Yep, the stuff we eat for breakfast. Cook it into a loose, soup-like consistency, allow it to cool, take it and your companion outside, and drench him with it. Allow it to remain in his coat as long as possible, before rinsing or brushing out the residue.

Another option is to make a peppermint and/or lavender skin rinse. Alternately, rosemary can be used as well. Buy some bulk lavender herb or peppermint leaf (or combine both) at the health food store. Pack a large tea ball full of the herb, and steep it in a quart or two of near-boiling water until it cools. Then drench the pooch with the liquid. It will help his itching, and he will smell nice, too!

When itching is associated with minor redness, I use rinses that incorporate herbs with vulnerary (speed healing) and bacteria-fighting qualities. Daily skin rinses made of chamomile, plantain, or calendula (individually or combined) are all worthwhile choices. Again, completely soak the dog with the tea, and allow him to drip-dry.

If open scratches, scabs, or sores are visible, combine calendula and comfrey with sage, bee balm, thyme, and/or yarrow tea in equal proportions. This will accelerate the healing process and help inhibit bacterial infection without irritating the skin or interfering with the activities of beneficial microbes and ectoparasites – friendly bugs that help keep the skin healthy.

However, if your companion’s skin condition appears severe (the skin is flaky, red, and scratching or chewing is continuous), stronger astringents may be needed. A decoction of uva-ursi leaf, juniper leaf (a common landscape shrub), or rose bark (any variety will do), combined with calendula flowers, should serve well here. Here is one such formula:

Astringent/Healing Skin Rinse

Combine equal parts of the following fresh and/or dried herbs:

  • Juniper or uva-ursi leaf
  • Calendula flowers
  • Peppermint leaf

Combine all of the herbs and place into a glass or stainless pot. Cover with water and bring to a gentle boil over moderate heat. Simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and allow to stand until cooled. Strain the cooled fluid through a sieve. Then soak the dog’s skin and coat and let him drip-dry.

If your companion insists on licking the solution off, you can use the rinse as a fomentation. Wrap an old towel or cloth (preferably dye-free and unbleached) around the affected body parts, and then thoroughly soak the towel with the cooled solution. This prevents your pup from licking the solution off, and enables you to keep the solution on her for several hours.

When to Call the Vet

If an established bacterial infection is evident (swelling is elevated and hot/red, and sores are discharging pus), you need to call your veterinarian. If she happens to be holistic, she might consider the following regimen, which is used to boost immune system response to the infection while adding direct antibacterial intervention: 

  • Twice-daily internal doses of echinacea tincture, to boost the immune system, along with a twice-daily dose of Oregon grape tincture, to strengthen liver function and the body’s elimination of systemic waste materials and bacterial die-off.
  • Twice-daily external applications of echinacea and Oregon grape (or organically farmed goldenseal powder, tincture, salve, or ointment at the sites of infection).

As you see, symptomatic relief for your dog’s itching may be at arm’s reach. Just keep in mind that chronic skin ailments are seldom skin-deep, and treating symptoms such as dry, itchy skin or hot spots with topical remedies alone will not amount to a curative therapy for deeper health issues. Most chronic skin issues are related to allergies, diet, or both. To find a lasting solution for your companion, talk to a holistic veterinarian who is familiar with issues of nutrition, allergies, and natural approaches to skin care.

Greg Tilford is a well-known expert in the field of veterinary herbalism. An international lecturer and teacher of veterinarians and pet owners alike, Greg has written four books on herbs, including All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets (Bowie Press, 1999), which he coauthored with his wife, Mary.

Advanced Dog Training Methods: How to “Fade” Prompts and Lures

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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FADE TRAINING LURES: OVERVIEW

1. Examine your training routines with your dog to identify where you use prompts.

2. Determine which prompts you are using appropriately in the early stages of training a new behavior, and which ones are candidates for fading.

3. Create a written training program for each prompt you’d like to fade. How will you go about it? What results do you expect?

4. Implement your prompt-fading programs. Keep a daily journal to monitor your progress. Celebrate each time the two of you succeed in fading your prompts from another behavior!

Old-fashioned trainers – those who use physical corrections as a moderate or significant part of their training programs – often criticize positive training, saying that “foodies” (positive trainers) have to bribe their dogs to get them to do things. This is a shallow, shortsighted view of a powerful, effective tool.

It’s true that in the beginning stages of positive training we do use treats, also known as lures, to show the dog what we want him to do. Some positive trainers also use visual signals and gentle physical assistance as “prompts” to communicate with the dog.

A woman walks in a grassy field with a dog walking at her side
It’s impressive when you can get your dog to sit, lie down, or walk calmly at your heel with just a word or hand signal. More importantly, this accomplishment demonstrates that your dog really does understand your cue; he’s not dependent on a certain context or combination of conditions and body language to “guess at” your intent.

But in a good training program, as soon as the dog performs a behavior easily for a prompt or lure, the trainer proceeds to put the behavior on cue. A cue is the primary signal (or stimulus) you use to ask your dog to perform a behavior. When a dog performs a behavior on cue quickly, anywhere, and under a wide variety of conditions, the behavior is said to be under stimulus control.

Many novice dog owners never make it past luring and prompting. As long as they’re satisfied with that level of training, it’s perfectly okay that they will always have to point, clap, or use a treat to get their dogs to perform. It’s their relationship, and their choice as to how well and clearly they want to be able to communicate with their dogs.

However, there is a huge advantage to working with your dog, gradually fading your lures and prompts and teaching your dog to respond to verbal cues or hand signals, until she can reliably perform certain behaviors on cue. Having your dog respond to cues without prompts gives you more security and versatility in your training; your dog will respond even if she can’t see you, or your arms are full of groceries. With enough practice, your dog will even be able to respond appropriately to your cue while “tuning out” potentially dangerous distractions – say, a squirrel chattering at the foot of a tree across a busy street.

If you would like to move on to the next level of training and communication with your dog, by working to “fade” your lures and prompts and teach your dog to respond to verbal cues or hand signals, read on!

Taking Off Your Dog’s Training Wheels

Your dog is pretty well trained. You point to the floor and say “Down!” Your dog instantly drops to the floor. You ask her to sit as you touch her on her back, and she happily responds by settling onto her haunches. You hold a piece of hot dog over her head and say “Up!” and she lifts her front paws off the ground in a lovely performance of “Sit pretty.” Your friends and family are in awe of your training prowess, and comment on how well-trained your dog is. But is she, really?

From one perspective, she certainly is. She knows how to perform a long list of behaviors, and will oblige you by doing them when you ask her to. But from another perspective, she’s not. For each behavior, you’re relying on back-up information to help your dog understand the cue and perform the behavior. You are using prompts.

Prompts are vitally important dog training tools. We use them all the time when we train a new behavior. A lure is something the dog wants – a treat or toy – that you can use to demonstrate to her what you want her to do, by moving it and having her follow. Because dogs are not native speakers of our language, you can use a piece of hot dog or some other tasty tidbit as a “translator” to explain the behavior you want. Because dogs are natural body language communicators, they respond easily to physical and visual prompts.

Anything you use to back up your initial cue is considered a prompt. A food lure is a very obvious prompt. Gentle physical assistance (for example, a light touch on the dog’s back to tell her to sit) is a less obvious but still very visible prompt. Hand signals are cues if they are the initial request for a behavior, but are prompts if they follow or closely accompany the initial verbal cue, such as pointing at the floor when you ask your dog to lie down. Consciously or unconsciously, all of us also use many more subtle prompts, such as eye contact (or lack of eye contact), the way we stand or move, the position in which we hold our hands or tilt our heads – all of these can be backup communications to our dogs when we give them a verbal cue.

The important thing to keep in mind when using lures and prompts is that the longer you continue to use them after your dog has learned a new behavior, the more dependent you both become on them, and the harder it will be to teach her to respond to a verbal cue alone.

Karen Pryor’s Four Rules of Stimulus Control

Karen Pryor is a scientist with an international reputation in two fields (marine mammal biology and behavioral psychology), and the author of many scientific papers and monographs, as well as seven books on animal training.

In her landmark book, Don’t Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training, Pryor suggests that a behavior is not truly under stimulus control unless or until it meets four conditions:

1. The behavior always occurs immediately upon presentation of the conditioned stimulus (the dog sits when told to).

2. The behavior never occurs in the absence of the stimulus (during a training or work session the dog never sits spontaneously).

3. The behavior never occurs in response to some other stimulus (if you say “Lie down,” the dog does not offer the sit instead).

4. No other behavior occurs in response to this stimulus (when you say “Sit,” the dog does not respond by lying down or by leaping up and licking your face).

In reality, very few dogs are under total stimulus control – particularly as proven by Ian Dunbar’s “sit test.” I consider stimulus control as more of a goal that you are always working toward with your dog.

Take the “Sit Test”

Originally developed by Ian Dunbar, a  trainer and behaviorist based in Berkeley, California, the purpose of the sit test is to provide an objective assessment of performance reliability for basic behavior cues. This helps to remind us that, frequently, we think our dog “knows” a behavior when, in fact, it’s more likely that our dog knows the behavior reliably in response to our cue (under stimulus control) in a relatively limited scope. To wit: Most of us think our dogs know “sit.” Take the test and see how true this is!

Note: The following test is not the same as the one originally developed by Dunbar, but serves a similar purpose.

1. Front sit: Dog sits on cue facing handler

2. Side sit: Dog sits on cue at handler’s side

3. Chair sit: Dog sits on cue with handler sitting in chair

4. Floor/back sit: Dog sits on cue with handler sitting on floor with back to the dog

5. Handler down/sit: Dog sits with handler lying down on floor

6. Down-sit: Handler tells dog to down and stay, steps six feet away, cues dog to sit

7. Across-the-room sit: Helper takes leash, walks dog across room and drops the leash; handler cues dog to sit

8. Come-sit: Helper takes leash, walks dog across room away from handler, and drops leash; handler calls dog; cues dog to sit when dog reaches halfway point.

A result of 80 percent reliability or better (if your dog sat on the first try in 6-8 of these) is considered excellent. If he sat for 4-5 of them (60-70%), that’s good. You both need work if he responded to the “sit” cue in less than half of the exercises.

Fading the Prompt

In order to fade a prompt, whether it’s a lure or a physical or visual prompt, you need to help your dog fully understand the meaning of the cue itself. At this point in your training the verbal cue is often irrelevant to the dog. It makes you feel good to say “Down,” when you point to the floor, and you may think your dog “knows” the word, but here’s an experiment you can try to see if your dog really understands. Point to the floor without speaking. Chances are your dog will lie down. Now say “Down” without pointing to the floor. Chances are your dog will stand there with a happy look on her face, waiting for you to translate. She doesn’t really understand the word.

If she lies down without the point, then she does understand the word, and you don’t need to point to the floor every time you ask her to lie down. You can fade your prompt just by discontinuing its use, and/or you can also use the “point” as your primary hand signal cue for down, and disassociate its use from the word.

Let’s assume your dog didn’t lie down on your verbal cue. Right now, she knows and understands the “point to the floor” cue as the stimulus for the behavior of “lie down.” In order to give meaning to a new cue, the new cue must consistently precede the known cue. That means every time you ask her to down, you’ll need to use your verbal “Down” cue first, give her a few seconds to think and respond, and then use your “point” cue if she doesn’t respond to the verbal. It’s as if you’re saying, in canine shorthand, “Dog, the word ‘Down’ means the same thing as when I point to the floor.”

Some dogs catch onto this translation very quickly, others take some time. If you don’t feel you are making good progress, try these two things:

• Wait longer after you give the verbal cue before you give the prompt. As long as she’s still focused on you and the wheels seem to be turning in her doggie brain, have patience, and give her time to think it through. If you lose her attention, try again with another verbal cue, but don’t wait as long to prompt. Experiment with varying waiting times before giving the prompt. The longer you’ve been prompting, the more repetitions and practice sessions it may take her to catch on to the new concept.

• Gradually fade the prompt itself. Give your verbal cue, wait a few seconds, then point, but point less than you normally do. If your pointing finger usually ends up nine inches from the floor, stop 12 inches from the floor and see if she lies down. If she does, do several repetitions at 12 inches, then try stopping your point 15 inches from the floor. Gradually diminish your point until you are no longer pointing at all.

You can follow this fading program for any of the prompts you use. If you usually get her to sit by touching her back, say “Sit” first, then give her time to think and respond. If she doesn’t sit, go ahead and touch her back, but more lightly than normal, to elicit the sit. You’re saying, “Dog, the word ‘Sit’ means the same thing as this touch on your back.” Gradually fade the amount of pressure in the touch until you aren’t touching her at all.

Dogs Communicate with Body Language

When you’re fading your prompts, remember that your dog doesn’t know the word – she only knows the prompt. Dogs communicate primarily through body language, and it can be difficult for them to learn words, especially at first. It’s easy to get frustrated – spoken language seems so simple to us – but have patience. She’ll get it. Once you work through a couple of prompt-fading exercises it will come more and more easily with each new cue you teach her. I often wonder how frustrated our dogs get with us because we’re so dimwitted about understanding their body language!

Most dogs think the cue for “sit” is a combination of a person standing in front of them with treats in her hands, looking right at them, speaking loudly, gesturing strangely, perhaps only in the house.

In fact, if you watch your dog closely, she may give you body language clues that she’s beginning to understand the word. Many dogs, when they are starting to grasp the concept of “down,” will glance at the floor when they hear the verbal cue, as if they are saying, “I know that word has something to do with ‘down there,’ but I’m not exactly sure what.” Take heart; this means your message is getting through!

When you see her glance at the floor, tell her “Good girl!” and help her with your prompt. You’re telling her “That’s it!” Remember that it will speed her learning if you use a marker – such as a click! of a clicker or a verbal “Yes!” – and give her a treat when she lies down, even if you had to prompt.

Another body language message she may send you is to go partway down and stop, then look up at you. She’s saying. “Is this it? Is this what you mean?” Again, you’ll speed her learning if you acknowledge her question with a “Good girl!” and a prompt to help her lie down the rest of the way. Then click! and treat.

Note: It’s important not to click! and treat until she is all the way down. Your “Good girl!” tells her she’s on the right path; the click! and treat mark the performance of the complete behavior. If you click! the partway behavior, she will think she is only supposed to go partway.

Be Mindful of Your Unintentional Prompts

Anything you do as a regular part of a behavior cue is an unintentional prompt. If you always have your dog facing you when you ask her to sit, then she’ll think facing you is part of the “Sit” ritual; your position is a prompt. If you always bend your knees and lean forward slightly when you ask your dog to lie down, those movements will be unintentional prompts that help to translate the verbal “down” cue to your dog.

If you took the “sit test” (see “Take the Sit Test,”, above) and learned that your dog is highly reliant on unintentional prompts, you now know how well your dog really knows the “Sit” cue. You can create similar tests for other behaviors, such as “Down” and “Come,” to help you discern whether your dog’s behaviors are really under good stimulus control.

But we want our dogs to sit whenever they hear “Sit!” – whether we have treats or not, whether we face them or not, no matter what position we are in, and whether we are inside or (especially!) outside.

Another helpful exercise is to have someone videotape you while you’re doing a normal training session with your dog. Watch the video afterwards, and pick out several body movements or positions that you consistently use with some of your commonly used cues. Now go back and work with your dog again, making a conscious effort to eliminate two or three of those cues. See if your dog is less responsive to your verbal cues when you take away your unintentional prompts.

If your dog doesn’t sit when you ask but seems otherwise focused on your training exercises, it’s likely that you’ve made a subtle change in your prompt. Many people in this situation jump to the erroneous conclusion that their dogs have chosen to deliberately defy them, and they give their hapless companions a “correction” for their “disobedience.” Poor dogs! If your dog stops performing a behavior you think she “knows,” examine your unintentional prompts and see what you might have changed.

Subtle prompts are not a bad thing, just something to be aware of. In fact, obedience competitors make good use of a wide variety of prompts to back up their legal obedience ring cues. Some make it a point to always start off on one foot if they are asking the dog to heel with them, the other foot if the dog has been asked to stay. Many competitors fold their arms across their chests to emphasize their stay “commands” from across the ring, while their arms are relaxed at their sides as required by obedience regulations for a recall from a stay. You may decide to use prompts deliberately on certain occasions as well – nothing wrong with that!

Fading Treats as Lures

Using treats in training is not “bribery.” In early stages of training as described above, treats are lures; after a dog knows how to perform a behavior, when given after the fact to reinforce that behavior, treats are rewards.

Still, there’s value in minimizing the use of treats so your dog doesn’t expect one every time she performs. When your dog gets a treat every time she sits (what’s called a continuous schedule of reinforcement), she comes to expect one every time she sits. Ask her to sit a few times without a reinforcer, and she may stop sitting on cue because it’s no longer rewarding to her to do so. When an animal stops performing a behavior, it’s called extinction.

When you gradually reduce the frequency of treats so that she gets them randomly and occasionally but not every time (in what’s called a random schedule of reinforcement) she’ll keep sitting when you ask because she knows it will pay off eventually – like putting quarters in a slot machine. Putting a behavior on a random schedule makes it very resistant to extinction and makes it more likely that your dog will respond when you need her to, even if you’ve run out of treats.

That said, I always try to have treats in my pockets so I can randomly reward my dogs for giving me behaviors that I ask for. They don’t get discouraged if they don’t receive a reward for one or two or even a bunch of behaviors, because they have learned that they can count on me to eventually reward them in some way.

Thanks to trainer Sandi Thompson of Bravo! Pup Dog & Puppy Training, in Berkeley, California, for modeling for the photos in this article.

Interactive Dog Toys and Instructional Learning Toys

By
Nancy Kerns
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by Pat Miller

First, there was Kong. Originally designed as a fetch item, the hard rubber toy bounced into the lead as a training tool when some enterprising dog person realized you could pack it full of yummy stuff as a doggie distractor. A food-filled Kong can be used to keep a dog occupied while you complete other tasks, or help him stay busy and content after you leave for work. Unstuffing the food is also a self-reinforcing activity, rewarding the dog for persisting in his efforts to chew, lick, and thump the treats free.

The past two decades have seen positive training methods rise to prominence, as well as an increase in number of dogs who spend their weekdays home alone. Not surprisingly, there has been a concomitant increase in the dog training industry’s interest in Kong and other interactive toys as tools to distract and occupy dogs – and to delight dog owners. In the past three or so years alone, there have been a dozen or more of these toys introduced to the market.

We collected as many of these toys as we could for testing and review. The Miller dog pack was very pleased and excited to be called upon to examine them.

The products we found fell into two groups: toys that, as with the Kong, you give to your dog, walk away, and let him lick and gnaw to his heart’s content (we’ll call them “leave ’em alone” toys); and “instructional learning” products, where the dog learns to perform a task, but needs you there to reset the puzzle so he can perform the task again.

Leave ’em alone toys
The Kong has long been king in this category (see “King Kongs,” WDJ October 2000). However, a new line of products from Premier (the “Busy Buddy Treat-Holding Rubber Chew Toys”) may be about to present a serious challenge to Kong. Premier has combined features from several popular dog toys into the five solid rubber products in this line. While not marketed as “indestructible,” the Busy Buddys are made of a tough yet forgiving rubber that will stand up to hours of abuse by most chewers. All are dishwasher safe. We like them a lot.

In our opinion, the best of the bunch is the purple Twist ’n Treat. The inviting rubber material and its innovative saucer shape make it a highly successful treat-dispensing toy. It’s a snap to load with its two-piece, twist-together design, and just as easy to clean. It can be twisted more tightly closed to slow the treat payout rate, or more open to pay out more generously. Blessedly, it lacks the irritating noisemaking capability of the hard plastic Buster Cube and Roll-A-Treat Ball (reviewed in “Treat-Dispensing Toys,” April 2002).

Tucker, our Cattle Dog-mix, was never assertive enough to make the Buster Cube work, but had this toy dispensing treats in mere seconds. With his gentle approach, a full load of treats lasted half an hour. Our more assertive Kelpie emptied the treats in five minutes (I should have screwed it tighter for her!) and then spent the next half-hour pushing it around, convinced there had to be more treats forthcoming.

The grooves in the surface of The Groove Thing, a marrow bone-shaped toy, are perfect for filling with soft cheese or peanut butter. The soft rubber is bonded to a tough, hollow, hard plastic core; this is intended to simulate chewy meat on a bone. The Groove Thing is messy when the grooves are filled with treat goo, so it’s best given to your dog when he’s in a crate, on a dog bed, or outside. All four of our test dogs gave this one an enthusiastic reception. It kept our Scottie busy for 45 minutes with no visible tooth marks on the surface.

The label warns that the ridges and grooves of the product can be chewed off in small pieces. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, we’d suggest choosing one of the sturdier products.

Our dogs immediately appreciated the cheese-fillable grooves on the ball-shaped ends of The Waggle, a dumbbell-shaped toy, but none of them were able to extract treats out of the ends; I could barely get them out when I went to clean it. This isn’t bad news, however, since they spent a good 30 minutes each licking out the cheese, and chewing the ends in pursuit of the treats inside. Big dogs may have more success with chewing on the ends, which have a nice give to them, thanks to the grooves.

The center bar of The Chuckle, a heavy dumbbell-shaped toy, contains a noisemaker; Premier assures us that it’s made of dog-safe components, in the unlikely event that the toy gets chewed open. The ball-shaped ends are hollow, and the holes at the ends have soft, inner-facing rubber prongs designed to randomly dispense treats. None of our dogs played with the toy violently enough to either make it “chuckle,” or to expel treats from the ends, not even Tucker, who likes to shake his pretend prey objects. He was happy to fetch the toy endlessly, however. It’s not interactive for all dogs, but a good choice for dogs who play very vigorously, with lots of shaking and chewing.

The Biscuit Bouncer is a football-shaped toy that, like Kong toys, bounces unpredictably. It’s a durable fetch toy, especially for dogs who are intrigued or aroused by random prey-like movement. Its treat-holding capacity is a little feeble to qualify it as an interactive toy, though, hence the two-paws rating. As a fetch toy we’d give it four paws.

All five of the Premier products can be found in local pet supply stores. Contact Premier to find a retailer near you.

Instructional learning toys
These are soft toys that require the dog to figure out how to operate puzzles, in reverse order from the way people work them; we put them together, dogs take them apart! You generally need to show, teach, or otherwise assist your dog in understanding the problem so he can solve it.

I was initially skeptical of the value of these toys, but I was pleasantly surprised with my dogs’ reaction to them. They are adorable, and offer a great gift-giving value. But more important, they are fun! I found myself having a great time as my dogs and I played with these products.

One caveat: Not all of the toys on the market that are described as “interactive” can meet that description. In our opinion, a toy that the dog simply pulls apart (such as a stuffed toy hamburger with sections that are Velcroed together) does not meet this definition. In our book, truly interactive toys require (and inspire!) the dog to think.

Hide & Seek, a whimsical stuffed cat, was our favorite of the instructional toys we tested. It’s actually a child’s toy – not made to resist chewing by a dog – so definitely not a candidate for unsupervised play.

As the name suggests, the toy is intended to be hidden. Before you hide it, squeeze the cat’s left paw to trigger a recorded voice that says, “I’m over here!” every 30 seconds for the next 15 minutes. A motion-detecting chip inside the toy triggers a new message (“You found me! You found me! Give me a big hug! Let’s play hide and seek again!”) when the toy is found and picked up.

You can teach your dog to find the toy by having him follow the voice to increasingly challenging hiding places. The unique concept is a great training aide to teach “Find it” behavior. It only took a couple of repetitions for our Scottie to understand the meaning of the “I’m over here!” cue (Find it = treat!), and in just minutes he was finding the cat in easy hides across the room.

The Plush Ring Puzzle Toy Frog, a little stuffed frog with three rings around his waist, is a great starter instructional toy. Hold the frog and encourage your dog to pull off a ring. Say “Yes!” and give him a treat when he does. When he drops the ring to eat the treat, pick it up and invite him to remove the next ring. When he gets the concept, give him the toy and see if he can remove the rings by himself.

By far the winner of the “cute” prize in our interactive toy category, the Hide A Squirrel stuffed hollow tree holds three little squirrels with squeakers. Let your dog play with the squeaky squirrels, then hide them in the tree and encourage him to pull them out. It’s more challenging than the frog above, but easily grasped by dogs who have learned to remove the frog rings.

Similar to the frog toy but more challenging, the long blue Intellibone has five rings that fit more snugly than the frog’s. Dogs have to work harder to pull these off.

The IQube is designed with the same concept as the squirrel toy; a dog has to burrow his nose into the soft cube to retrieve four plush, squeaky balls. It’s slightly more difficult to retrieve the balls than the squirrels, but not too hard.

The Egg Baby Turtle is very difficult to operate. Our Scottie, who mastered all the others in short order, hasn’t yet managed to retrieve the green plush eggs that fit very snugly into the turtle’s tummy. This toy might delight a more determined dog, or one who loves to pull the “guts” out of other toys. Also available in Dino, Duck, and Fish guises.

Keep Your Dog Cool and Hydrated This Summer

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
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SUMMER PROTECTION OVERVIEW

What you can do…

– Never leave a dog in the car on a warm day, even in the shade and with the windows cracked.

– In hot weather, reschedule your dog walks for early morning or dusk. Carry water and offer it to your dog frequently.

– Keep your dog in the shade as much as possible. Use dog-safe sunscreen on light-haired and pink-skinned dogs.

Summer, my favorite season, is here. The long days provide me and my dogs with extra time to enjoy all our favorite activities: hiking, camping, long walks, and outdoor adventures. Of course, long summer days also bring the risk of heat exposure to dogs.

The consequences of a dog overheating can be very serious. Heatstroke, or hyperthermia, can occur quickly and the result can be deadly. By understanding how dogs keep cool – and what we can do to help – we can ensure our dogs don’t overheat, so we can all enjoy those dog days of summer to the fullest.

Keep Your Dog Hydrated

When Dogs Get Hot

You may have experienced those very hot days when every pore in your body oozes sweat. Sweating is a very effective cooling mechanism; the evaporation of the moisture on the surface of your skin cools your body.

But dogs don’t sweat the way we do, and their ability to cool off is much more limited. Dogs cool themselves primarily through the process of panting and breathing. When dogs pant, the air passing over the saliva in their mouths helps them cool. In addition, the lining of a dog’s lungs serves as an evaporative surface, much like our skin when we sweat. Blood vessels in the face, ears, and feet can also expand, helping to dispel heat from the body.

A dog’s body temperature is normally between 100.2° and 102.8° Fahrenheit. When a dog’s cooling mechanisms are overwhelmed, his body may no longer be able to cool itself adequately, and the dog can become overheated. Dogs who get too hot can suffer from dehydration, heat cramps, or heat stress. If a dog’s body temperature rises past 104°, he’s in serious danger. If the body temperature continues to rise above 106°, heatstroke can occur.

Heatstroke is a life-threatening condition that can cause lethargy, weakness, collapse, seizure, coma, brain damage, and even death. If the body temperature reaches 109°, his heart, brain, liver, and kidneys can shut down.

Fortunately, heatstroke can be prevented. And if caught early, in its initial stages, it is reversible. An overheated dog is, quite obviously, a medical emergency. Even if you are able to cool the dog down, you should seek medical treatment if you suspect your dog has suffered from heatstroke. Problems associated with heatstroke – including kidney failure, respiratory arrest, abnormal heart rhythms, and seizures – do not always show up right away. Immediate veterinary treatment can help minimize the risks and save the dog’s life.

Heat Stress in Dogs

Dog’s can suffer from heat stress in just a few short minutes, even when the temperature doesn’t seem that hot to us. How will you know if a dog is at risk for overheating? There is not an exact answer to this question; it depends on the dog and the situation.

All dogs are at risk in extreme temperatures. But a dog who is accustomed to 90° weather may have less risk on a very hot day than a coastal pup vacationing in the Arizona desert. And, the air temperature is only one consideration: humidity, sun exposure (or lack of shade), amount of time in the heat, level of exertion, and availability of water can all affect how well a dog tolerates heat.

Certain types of dogs, including northern breeds like Malamutes or short-muzzled (brachycephalic) dogs like Pugs and Boxers, can have a more difficult time in the heat. Puppies under six months, older dogs, and overweight dogs can also have a much harder time when temperatures rise. Dogs on certain medications or with medical conditions like heart or lung disease will be more susceptible to heat exposure. A dog who has suffered from heat stress or heatstroke in the past is more likely to have problems again.

Plus, we’ve all met dogs who are driven to play or work no matter how tired or hot they get; think of a Border Collie at a Flyball match. Along with the outside temperature and humidity and the health of the dog, you have to take into consideration the dog’s personality and ability to stop himself from playing if he gets uncomfortable.

The best way to know if your dog is at risk for heat illness would be to monitor your dog’s body temperature; of course, this is not very practical in everyday life! You can also become familiar with how your dog responds to heat and the signals he gives that indicate he is getting hot. Panting more than usual, declining to engage in a favorite activity, moving slower than usual, searching for shade, or digging for a cool spot can all mean a dog is hot. If your dog is exhibiting any of these signs, it may mean he is already too hot and you should take immediate steps to help him cool off.

Biggest Risks for Heat Stroke

Leaving a dog in the car is one of the most common causes of heatstroke. On a relatively mild 70-degree day, for example, a closed car can heat up to 120° in a matter of minutes. Because dogs can’t cool off effectively while sitting in an oven-like car, they can quickly overheat. Cracking the windows or parking in the shade may not significantly reduce the car’s temperature.

Dogs can suffer heat exposure at home, too. On a warm day, a concrete dog run can heat up quickly. A backyard that lacks shade, or with fencing that blocks cooling breezes, may make the dog’s environment many degrees hotter than where you relax, comfortable, in the house. Neighborhood walks on warm days can also pose a risk. Hot asphalt and concrete can reflect heat, both creating an uncomfortable walking surface and increasing the risk of overheating.

Vacation time can pose extra risks for dogs. Vacations often lead us to different environments and climates – and often into the heat. Hanging out at a campsite, hiking on a warm day, even riding in a boat can put a dog at risk for heat-related illness. Beaches, especially if the dog is not inclined to cool off in the water, are also a risk. A dog traveling in the back of a car may get too much sun exposure through the window.

Keep Your Dog Hydrated

With the rise in dog sports, more us are asking our dogs to run, jump, and participate in other activities on hot summer days. Dogs, especially those who are keen for games or who desperately want to please us, may continue to play no matter how hot the day, or how overheated they are becoming.

Along with heat illness, dogs can get sunburned. Just like people, dogs with pale skin and light-colored fur are at greatest risk. Sunburn can increase the chance of heat illness. Regular sun exposure over the long term can cause skin damage and put your dog at risk for skin cancer. Areas commonly affected with sun damage are the ears, nose, and eyelids.

In addition, walking in exposed areas and visiting outdoor flea markets or street fairs add the risk of burning the dog’s paws. Hot paws can become sore or even blistered, and walking on a hot surface may add to the dog’s susceptibility to heat exposure.

Shade and Protect Your Dog

A lot of the methods for protecting your dog from heat stress are just common sense:

• Never leave your dog in a car on warm days.

• When it’s hot outside, bring your dog inside. If you need the air conditioning, chances are your dog does, too. If you must leave your dog outside, make sure he has plenty of shade, water, and ventilation.

• Never confine your dog or leave him crated in the sun. Use caution when leaving a crated dog under a shade awning, too. Remember that the sun moves and what was a shady spot can quickly become sun-baked.

• Provide rest breaks in the shade and plenty of water on all outdoor excursions.

• Avoid overexertion on hot or humid days. Even if your dog generally joins you on a walk or run, extreme temperatures call for a change in routine. Instead, walk, exercise, and practice dog sports early in the morning or late in the day when the temperature is cooler.

• A dip in cool water is one of the best ways for dogs (and people!) to cool off. Wet your dog with a hose, or provide water play like a sprinkler or a wading pool. You can also drape your dog with a wet bandana, towel, or T-shirt when it’s very hot.

• If you are going to a hot environment (such as on vacation in Arizona in the summer) consider purchasing a cool mat or other dog-friendly cooling aids. Be very aware of your dog’s response to the heat, provide extra water, and give him several days to acclimate before allowing him to be active.

• At the beach, be sure to provide a cool place (like a towel or blanket under the umbrella) for your dog, too.

• Limit sun exposure during the mid-day hours and use an animal-safe sunscreen on dogs with pink noses or exposed skin. (We found Pet Sunscreen for sale by Doggles, a Jackson, California-based company that also makes goggles for dogs. Call 866- DOGGLES or see doggles.com.)

• Be especially careful with older or high-risk dogs.

Clip the Dog’s Coat?

Expert recommendations vary on the topic of whether you should clip a dog’s coat to assist with heat management. The ASPCA suggests that for a double-coated dog (like a Chow), trimming the dog’s fur may help. But don’t shave the dog! Leave at least one inch of coat to provide some insulation and protection from sunburn. Generally, long-haired dogs with a single coat (like rough-coated Border Collies) should not be clipped, as their coats may not be dense enough to protect them from the sun when cut short.

First Aid for Heatstroke

Heatstroke, or hyperthermia, is when the body’s temperature rises too high. It can cause the heart, liver, kidney, and brain to shut down. A dog who experiences heatstroke can go into shock and may suffer irreversible organ damage.

In spite of your best efforts, there may be a time when you will have to deal with heatstroke. Know the signs of an overheated dog; first aid and immediate medical treatment are essential and can help save your dog’s life. Signs of heatstroke include:

– Excessive panting

– Increased heart rate

– Confusion or disorientation

– Vomiting or diarrhea

– Bright red gums

– Body temperature higher than 104° F

– Collapse, seizure, or coma

What to do:

1. Get your dog out of the heat immediately.

2. Begin cooling your dog down. The easiest way to cool a dog is to wet him down. Use a hose or wet towels. Do not use ice.

3. Get your dog to the vet immediately. You can continue cooling him with wet towels on the way.

4.If you cannot get to a veterinarian right away, monitor his temperature and check for signs of shock. Stop the cooling process when your dog’s temperature reaches 104° F. Do not continue cooling him or the body temperature could drop too low, increasing the risk of shock. Even if you are successful at cooling him off, take him to the vet anyway. Many medical problems caused by heatstroke won’t show up right away. Veterinary treatment is critical.

Water Fun and Safety

Want to cool off your dog on a hot summer day? Think a dip in a river, ocean, or lake is the perfect solution? It may be – especially for those water-loving pooches. But wait. Before you encourage your ball-crazed dog to swim to the middle of the river after his favorite orb, beware of the risks:

– Current, waves, and moving water can be dangerous for any dog, even a very strong swimmer. River currents can be deceptive. Even if the water appears to be moving slowly, the sheer volume of moving water can make it difficult for a dog to swim against the current. Wind and currents on a lake can likewise make for a difficult swim. Ocean waves and rip tides both pose serious dangers to the canine swimmer.

– Underwater hazards like hidden branches, plants, and debris can snag a dog.

– Cold water can cause a dog to tire out much more quickly than normal. A cold dog can develop cramps, lose energy, and be at risk for hypothermia (when a dog’s body temperature drops too low). Does all this mean you should keep your dog from swimming on a hot summer day? Of course not! Swimming is great exercise and water is a wonderful way to cool off when the temperature outside is hot. Just use good judgment!

– In an unfamiliar place, watch the water for a few minutes before allowing your dog to swim. Make sure the currents aren’t too strong. If they are, have your dog splash close to shore rather than dive in for a full swim.

– Check the water temperature. In a lake fed by snowmelt, for example, you may only want to allow a quick dip to keep your dog from getting too cold.

– Remove slip collars or training collars before your dog enters the water. These can snag on underwater obstacles.

– Never take your eyes off your dog when he is swimming. Watch to make sure he is not getting too tired and call him out of the water when he still has plenty of energy. A tired dog has a much higher risk of drowning.

Enjoy the Dog Days of Summer

None of us (including our dogs) want to give up summer fun or the enjoyment of a warm day. But a little awareness and a heavy dose of caution will help you protect your dog from heat illness.

Remember, when dogs get too hot, you can generally tell. They slow down, their tongues hang out, and they may even search for a spot in the shade. Most dogs, given the opportunity, will take steps to keep themselves cool on a warm day.

Our job is to make sure they have the opportunity to cool off and to be careful that we don’t ask them to work or play hard when the temperature is too warm for their bodies to handle. Make cooling activities part of your fun together! With a little caution, you and your dog can enjoy the “dog days” all summer long.

Mardi Richmond is a writer and dog training enthusiast who enjoys spending warm summer days hiking and playing with her two wonderful dogs, Jesse and Blue.

Why Punishment-Based Dog Training Doesn’t Work

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Karen Overall is a scientist, and has a lot of science-based degrees: BA, MA, VMD and a Ph.D. She ran the Behavior Clinic for 12 of her 14 years at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, and now is a research associate in the Penn Med psychiatry department.

I heard Dr. Overall give a four-hour presentation on the treatment of pathological anxiety in dogs at the 2003 Association of Pet Dog Trainers conference. She spent almost an hour talking about the structure and function of the dog’s brain, and more time discussing the chemical actions and reactions that accompany thought, memory, and learning in mammals. It was fascinating.

It was especially gratifying for me to hear Dr. Overall explain why and how teaching techniques that help pupils think in a calm manner are the most effective – and how stress and fear interfere with learning and memory. Later, I had an opportunity to ask Dr. Overall to answer a few short questions for our readers. –Editor

———-

Punishment Based Training

WDJ: Why is it a bad idea to use punishment when training a dog?

KO: First, because the punishment techniques that are most commonly used with dogs are not about teaching them something. Almost every person I have ever seen punish a dog was angry, hurt, disappointed, or embarrassed, and that’s why the dog got punished, not because the punishment was going to help the dog learn.

By definition, punishment is something that will decrease the probability of the occurrence of a certain behavior. Generally, this punishment involves something that is sufficiently startling or aversive so as to thwart the “problem” behavior. If the dog has benefitted from the behavior in the past, it will take even more startling or aversive punishment to override his expectation of getting that reward again.

Frequently, a punished dog stops attending to you; you become something to be avoided. And if you overstep and really scare the dog – even just once – you have taught him that you are a threat. It should not be a surprise that dogs learn through fear very quickly, and then try to avoid the thing that caused the fear response: you. The amygdala (the area of the brain that’s concerned with generating the fear response) and the hippocampus (the area that’s concerned with how information is processed and stored) sit right against each other. The circuits between the two are hard-wired, allowing dogs to learn avoidance behaviors very quickly. This makes sense, from an evolutionary standpoint. If you want to avoid a predator, hanging around and reasoning it out are not great survival strategies. Fear responses save your life, so they have to be constructed from a straightforward, direct, simple pathway.

Whether or not you end up teaching the dog what you wanted him to learn, he’ll learn that he shouldn’t trust you, and that humans are unpredictable.

WDJ: Why is it important to preserve a good relationship between dogs and people?

KO: Violence not only breaks our bond with dogs, it damages us, too. It affects how we deal with all of our relationships, with particularly worrisome implications for people with children. In my practice, I often see people who have used violent training techniques that have made their animals worse, and they are devastated. They are truly damaged by the terror they inflicted on their animals.

WDJ: Are there any circumstances in which using physical force with a dog is useful?

KO: No. The only circumstance in which I would hit a dog is if the dog was attacking, and I had to defend my life or the life of my human or animal family.

WDJ: Curiously, I have heard people use a similar argument when they advocate the use of shock collars. People argue, “This dog will have to go to the pound and probably be put down if his owners can’t contain him.” Is saving a dog’s life a good reason to use aversive training tools?

KO: Among my patients, all of the dogs who were “treated” with shock by their people became worse and ended up dead.

In my patient population, the single biggest risk factor that dogs have for euthanasia has nothing to do with their behavior. It turns out that if the clients have seriously considered euthanasia, the dogs end up dead. If they have said, “No, we absolutely will not consider euthanasia,” they do everything they can to rehabilitate the dogs – and the dogs get better.

Keep in mind that a shelter surrender is not always the worst thing that can happen to a dog. Some dogs, even dogs with serious behavior problems, do get adopted. They may be one of the lucky ones, like my dog Flash, who had a record of serious aggression when I got him – aggression that was aggravated, if not initiated, by physical abuse in the name of “training.” If they are really lucky, they will find a home where patient, consistent, intelligent handling will help them erase all those previous crimes.

WDJ: So, dogs and our relationship with them can recover from violence?

KO: Absolutely. I now use Flash to work with other dogs with behavioral problems and their damaged people; he’s a genius at this work. I would like to believe that the people who hung Flash by a choke chain are no longer part of his nightmares. I want to believe that that’s gone from him, that his recovery is complete. I hope with all my heart that’s true.

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