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Help Has Arrived

By
Nancy Kerns
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4
Whole dog journal editor Kate O'connor with her dogs.
Kate O’Connor with her Airedales, 2-year-old Carmen and 13-year-old Suki.

Eagle-eyed subscribers may have noticed the addition of new names to the WDJ masthead. Here’s what’s up with that:

I’m taking a step back—but not walking away from—the day-to-day duties of WDJ. Those of you who read WDJ’s online version are likely aware that we post a lot more content on our website than we can fit in the print edition. It’s a ton of work—more than I can keep up with—so our publisher has summoned some fresh horses, as it were.

Please welcome Kate O’Connor, who previously edited other publications for Belvoir Media Group and is a dyed-in-the-wool dog lover. Kate was practically raised in a dog kennel; her aunt has bred and raised champion Airedales from her Wildwood Kennel for more than 40 years—almost longer than Kate has been alive! Kate grew up working in her aunt’s kennel, as well as in veterinary hospitals (including the vet school at Tufts University) and dog-training facilities. She occasionally fosters Airedales and of course has her own young Airedale, Carmen, with whom she “participates” in rally and agility (Kate says “competes” isn’t applicable to their event-ring efforts quite yet). Kate has jumped right into the tasks at hand, writing two of the articles in the June issue and assigning many more.

Whole Dog Editor Cindy Foley walking two paillons on the beach.
Cynthia Foley and her Papillons, 10-year-old Aries (left) and 3-year-old Twisty.

For the past two years—since the initial expansion of our online-only content—I’ve also been assisted by Cindy Foley, another talented colleague from Belvoir Media Group. Cindy is the Executive Editor of DogWatch, which is published in partnership with Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. Cindy also competes in agility, with dogs at the other end of the size scale: two very athletic Papillons!

I’m thrilled to say that Kate and Cindy are going to take on the lion’s share of assigning and editing articles for WDJ. This will give me an opportunity to write more in-depth pieces on topics that are near and dear to my heart. I’m relishing the opportunity to spend more time on our coverage of the dog-food industry, for a start. I’ve never had as much time as I’ve wanted to dig into pieces on ingredients, formulation, production, and product development and testing, to name just a few food-related topics. I’m also going to be teaching a few classes at a friend’s dog-training facility and will be fostering more pups for my local shelter, which will surely inspire even more fresh fodder for WDJ.

Editor Nancy Kerns walking her dogs and her friends dogs.
Nancy, now getting a chance to do some hiking with her dogs and friends and friends’ dogs!

 

Cooling Vests for Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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0
Cooling vests for dogs can help to keep your pup comfortable on hot days or long hikes.
The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest has a reflective mesh that helps deflect the sun’s rays and an inner lightweight cotton mesh you can wet to help keep your dog cool. Credit: Photo Dr. Eileen Fatcheric

Cooling vests for dogs can help your dog stay cooler in hot weather. The best cooling vests, or coats, for dogs are lightweight, breathable, loose-fitting, and light in color. Anything heavy, tight, or dark will result in more heat absorption and retention, which is obviously not what we want. As the owner of a black sporting dog, I have investigated dog cooling coats extensively, and I have two favorites to share with you:

Dogs Overheat Quickly

It’s important to know when it’s too hot to walk your dog and how to keep your dog cool in summer. While dogs do have sweat glands, they do little to cool a dog’s body on a hot day.  The strongest mechanism dogs have for cooling their bodies is panting, which is also not the most efficient cooling system, unfortunately. That means it is on us, the pet owners, to keep our dogs safe during the dog days of summer. Dog cooling vests are one way to help us help them.

Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest

The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest’s outer layer is made of a lightweight, woven plastic with a reflective aluminum coating. It is breathable and reflects the sunlight away to minimize radiant heat absorption by your dog. The inner layer is a perforated light cotton mesh that you can soak with cool water to enhance evaporative cooling for your dog. You can make the most of this by carrying cool water with you and rewetting the vest as needed. The Chillybuddy Dog Cooling Vest is machine washable, durable, and comes in multiple sizes so you can find the best fit for your dog. Prices start at $58.

K9 Cool Coat

Saratoga Horseworks’ K9 Cool Coat is also lightweight, light-colored, and breathable. It is made of one layer of a polyester mesh that can be soaked in cool water to enhance its overall cooling effect. The K9 Cool Coat also provides UVA and UVB protection, so it is especially appealing for dogs with sparser coats who are more prone to sunburn. The K9 Cool Coat is machine washable, durable, and comes in multiple sizes. It costs $49, but you can add features like embroidery for more money.

When Is It Too Hot to Walk a Dog?

Cooling vests can help keep your dog cooler on a hot day, but they are not a free pass to exercise your dog for as long as you want in extreme heat. To keep your dog safe and cool in summer, use common sense: If it’s hot and uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot and too uncomfortable for them.

As a veterinarian, I can tell you that there is no specific temperature that means it’s too hot to walk your dog. Many individual variables are involved in that decision, including your dog’s general health and fitness level, coat color, airway conformation (brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, Bostons, and Bulldogs overheat more easily), and the dog’s degree of acclimatization to the heat.

Pay attention to your dog and familiarize yourself with the early signs of heat stress:

  • Glazed eyes
  • Heavy panting
  • Noticeable tongue enlargement
  • Frothy drool
  • Disorientation

To help keep your dog cool while exercising in hot weather:

  • Choose shady routes as much as possible.
  • Shorten your excursions.
  • Exercise in the early morning and late evening hours when the heat and ferocity of the sun are lowest.
  • Make sure your dog is well-hydrated and has access to water before, during (yes carry water for your dog!), and after exercise.

Training Your Dog To Use Steps

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Taking Care of Your Senior Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal

If your dog has never negotiated any kind of steps, here are some things to try. Place the steps against a wall in the common living area of your home – somewhere your dog already enjoys spending time with you. You can play games with your dog near the steps, have a fun training session near the steps, let your dog enjoy a stuffed Kong beside them, and even feed meals from a bowl on or near the steps. Do this for a few days until your dog is fully comfortable being near and passing the steps.

I use a clicker as a marker signal, though you can also use a short word such as “Yes!” to mark the behavior, which will then be reinforced with a piece of food.

Place the steps where your dog will need to use them. Get some pea-sized pieces of yummy food that your dog really loves, such as baked chicken or cheese (try to use a food the dog doesn’t get on a daily basis). Take a piece of food, put it at your dog’s nose and lure him to the first step, mark and reinforce. Take another piece of food and toss it slightly away from the steps (you’re resetting the dog to return to the steps). Because you’re sitting or standing near the steps and you just fed him at the step, he’ll likely quickly return to you.

Going down can be more challenging for dogs. Again, move at your own dog’s pace. You’re going to repeat the same process of luring, marking, and reinforcing your dog for successful negotiation of each step.

If he bypasses the steps by jumping down and around them, no worries. Just lure him back up the steps, then begin again to lure him down. If you move at his pace, your efforts will likely be met with success. If he bypasses the steps several times in a row, end the training session and start again several hours later or even the next day. Each dog gains confidence at a different pace and there’s no need to rush the process.

For more practical advice on supporting your aging dog, download your copy of Taking Care of Your Senior Dog today!

Other Options To Consider

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Stop Jumping eBook from Whole Dog Journal

There are many other creative options for programming or modifying doorbell behavior.

Here are three:

  1. Try changing your doorbell sound. If your dog has a very strong emotional response to the existing doorbell, it will be easier to give her a new association with a new sound. Don’t actually use it as your new doorbell until you’ve conditioned a very positive response for your dog (or trained her to perform an appropriate operant behavior in response to the new chime). When your training is completed, then substitute the new doorbell in place of the current one.
  2. Get a toy: You can teach your dog that the doorbell is her cue to run to fetch a toy. You can toss the toy for her to fetch (have her offer a sit first!), and thus focus her energies on the toy instead of the doorbell or your guests. You can also teach her to take the toy to your visitors, and construct a polite greeting behavior that includes sitting until they toss the toy for her.
  3. Treat ‘n Train: This unique remote treat-delivery gadget was developed by veterinary behaviorist Sophia Yin for a variety of training and behavior applications, including door manners! The concept is simple. When you push a button, the unit beeps and delivers a treat. Your dog makes the classical association between the “beep” and treat, and quickly learns (operantly) to run to the machine when she hears the beep. The beep becomes the cue to run to the machine.

    Then add the doorbell as the new cue to run to the machine, as in Step 4 of the “mostly operant” approach, above. Ring the doorbell, beep the beep, and the machine delivers. When the doorbell alone sends your dog to the machine, fade the beep cue by utilizing the “mute” feature of the remote: you press the button to deliver a treat but no beep occurs; the doorbell alone sends your dog to the machine for her treat. Gradually increase your dog’s distance from the machine so the doorbell sends her running to her Treat ‘n Train from anywhere in the house.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Stop Jumping.

How To Approach Your Neighbor About a Barking Dog

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Stop Barking eBook from Whole Dog Journal

The obvious first step – asking the dog’s owner to stop the noise – is either ignored or botched by a surprising number of people. Perhaps it’s not all that surprising approaching someone with a complaint can be unpleasant and in some cases intimidating.

However, talking to your neighbor calmly and reasonably is an essential first step. Even if you do eventually end up in court, a judge isn’t likely to be too sympathetic if you didn’t make at least some effort to work things out first. So it’s a no-lose situation, and if you approach it with a modicum of tact, you may be pleasantly surprised by the neighbor’s willingness to work toward a solution.

Sometimes owners are blissfully unaware that there’s a problem. If a dog barks for hours every day – but only when he’s left alone – the owner may not know that a neighbor is being driven crazy by a dog the owner thinks is quiet and well-mannered. Even if you’re sure the neighbor does know about the dog’s antisocial behavior, it may be better to proceed as though she doesn’t.

Here are some suggestions on how to get the most from your negotiations:

  • Write a friendly note or call to arrange a convenient time to talk. Don’t blunder up some rainy evening when the neighbor is trying to drag groceries and kids in the house after work.
  • If you think it’s appropriate, take a little something to the meeting to break the ice – some vegetables from your garden, perhaps.
  • Don’t threaten legal action (or illegal action!). There will be time to discuss legal remedies if relations deteriorate.
  • Offer positive suggestions. Once you have established some rapport, you may want to suggest, tactfully, that the owner get help with the dog. Try saying something like, “You know, my friend Tom had the same problem with his dog, and since he’s been taking the dog to ABC Obedience School classes, he and his neighbors are much happier.” Of course, if you make suggestions too early in the process, the neighbor may resent your “interference.”
  • Try to agree on specific actions to alleviate the problem. For example, that the dog is kept inside between 10 p.m. and 8 a.m.
  • After you agree on a plan, set a date to talk again in a couple of weeks. If your next meeting is already arranged, it will be easier for you to talk again. It won’t look like you’re badgering your neighbor, but will show that you’re serious about getting the problem solved.
  • If the situation improves, make a point to say thanks. Not only is it the nice thing to do, it will also encourage more progress.

For more advice on how to understand and manage your dog’s barking, download and read Whole Dog Journal’s exclusive ebook Stop Barking.

The Rules of Seven

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Socializing Your Puppy eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Pat Schaap, a Shetland Sheepdog breeder in Clarksville, Maryland, is credited for this list of experiences, people, and things that each puppy should have been exposed to by the time she reaches seven weeks old:

  1. Seven different types of surfaces: Carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips.
  2. Seven different types of play objects: Big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, sticks or hose pieces.
  3. Seven different locations: Front yard, backyard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom.
  4. Seven new people: Children and older adults, a person with a cane, someone in a wheelchair or walker.
  5. Seven challenges: Climb on a box, climb off a box, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence.
  6. Seven different types of food containers: Metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan.
  7. Seven different eating locations: Crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom.

Of course, seven shouldn’t be a limiting number. Pratt says she exposes her Golden Retriever puppies to 100 different people before they leave at 8 1/2 weeks.

For more details and advice on ways to socialize your puppy or dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Socializing Your Puppy.

Dog Tracking Devices for Newbies

By
CJ Puotinen
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1
Dog tracking devices are a desired device, but rarely work as desired.
While there are plenty of dog collars and harnesses designed to hold Apple AirTags available, the company advises against using them to track your dog. Credit: Artur Debat | Getty Images

Dog tracking devices attach to a dog’s collar or harness, collect data related to the dog’s location, and transmit data to a smartphone or computer. That’s useful, but as explained in “Sorting Out Smart Collars,” some dog-tracking GPS (Global Positioning System) devices offer so many options that their features and price tags can overwhelm new users.

If you’re new to GPS technology and want a simple, affordable, reliable way to keep track of your dog’s location, here are some options.

Note that your dog’s microchip is not a tracking device. The microchip is a radio-frequency identification (RFID) implant that serves only one purpose, to identify dogs by matching chip identification numbers to veterinary records.

The Simplest and Least Expensive Dog Tracking Devices

Ever since Apple released its AirTag Tracking Device to keep track of luggage and other items, people have attached AirTags to their dogs. According to Apple, this is a terrible idea whose risks outweigh the rewards because someone finding your pet would need an updated iPhone to notify you and they might not have one, or they might not know how to use their phone for that purpose, and some dogs have swallowed AirTags, requiring emergency surgery. AirTag fans dismiss Apple’s warnings as efforts to avoid liability, and dog collars and harnesses designed to hold AirTags are widely sold.

Considering its $29 price tag, long battery life, the fact that it doesn’t require a subscription, and its ease of use, the AirTag looks like an attractive option. However, it’s far less reliable than a GPS tracker that uses satellite signals and cellular data to send your dog’s location to your phone. The AirTag uses Bluetooth technology, which works well if you’re within 30 to 100 feet of the device. Otherwise, Apple’s app depends on the proximity of other active iPhones in Apple’s “Find My” network to expand the AirTag’s range. If anyone with a modern Apple device is near a lost AirTag, they can alert the AirTag’s owner of the exact location, but if iPhone users aren’t nearby, the AirTag can’t respond..

Similar descriptions apply to the Tile Pro tracker, designed to keep track of keys, phones, luggage, and other items. Unlike Apple, Tile promotes its tracker for use on pets and even offers a Tile collar attachment for cats. The basic Tile costs $34.99 and requires an annual $29.99 (standard) or $99.99 (premium) subscription. Its 400-foot  Bluetooth range can be extended by proximity to other active cell phones in the Tile Network, which is why it’s more reliable for indoor cats than for out-of-range dogs.

The Pawscout Bluetooth Tracker relies on a network of Pawscout members and their smartphones to reunite tagged pets with owners. Its 300-foot range is expanded by proximity to other people with the Pawscout app, which makes this tag most effective in urban areas. If there aren’t any active Pawscout apps within range, the tracker can’t respond. Pawscout’s QR tag ($9.95) and Bluetooth tracker ($19.95) don’t require subscriptions.

User-Friendly GPS Trackers

If you live in a rural area, hike or camp with your dog, or if identifying your dog’s exact location matters, it makes sense to invest in a GPS tracker. Most use a combination of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth to share satellite data with your phone. While ease of use is important, so are factors like reliability, affordability, battery life, whether the tracker is waterproof, and whether it’s comfortable for your dog to wear.

The Whistle GO Explore Pet Tracker attaches to the collars of dogs weighing 25 pounds and more. Praised by evaluators for its ease of use, sturdy attachment clip, and for being waterproof, the Whistle costs $129 plus an annual subscription of $99.

The Tractive GPS Dog Tracker is easy to set up, popular with users, works for dogs weighing as little as 9 pounds, and provides up-to-the-second updates of a dog’s position. The Tractive is waterproof, monitors a dog’s sleep patterns and daily activities, and costs $49.99 with a basic ($96) or premium ($108) annual subscription.

The Jiobit Smart Tag Dog Tracker is the smallest GPS tracker, suitable for dogs and cats of all sizes. The tag’s different clips make it easy to attach, and it’s easy to set up and use. The tag costs $129.99 and requires a $17 per month subscription ($8.33 per month or $100 if prepaid annually).

The Fi Smart Series 3 Dog Collar has a built-in tracker with a long battery life (1-1/2 to 2 months for most dogs) and upgraded location tracking for accuracy. The collar’s cost depends on the subscription purchased with it ($189.00 for prepaid annual subscriptions). Reviewers call it easy to set up and use.

The Cube GPS Pet Tracking Bundle uses GPS, WiFi, cell tower triangulation, and Bluetooth for location reporting, and it works nationwide off the Verizon network. This means that in areas with poor cell service, it can be unreliable. The pet tracking bundle costs $119.95 plus an annual subscription for $198.00. 

Looking for More?

Before deciding on a dog tracker, take a realistic look at your needs and visit websites and check online reviews. Compare the area ranges of different devices, their battery life, and costs. If these are of interest, look at extra features like activity monitors, built-in LED lights for extra visibility, and the ability to add multiple phones (yours, your family’s, or a pet sitter’s) to your tracker’s notification system.

For our latest in-depth review of dog tracking products see “GPS Trackers and Smart Collars for Dogs.”

Keep Your Dog’s IDs Up to Date

Even if you buy the most advanced tracking device for your dog, it’s important to keep her collar ID and microchip information up to date. There are many reasons why a tracking device might stop working, so backup identification methods still matter.

Canine Obesity: It’s a Big Problem

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
Overweight dogs can suffer many health issues due to their weight.
This is not just a “large breed dog,” she is FAT. Her backbone is indented by the excess flesh on her ribs. She’s at high risk of muscle and ligament injuries, anal gland problems, diabetes, and a host of other health problems due to being overweight.

A professional organization called the Association for Pet Obesity’s Prevention (APOP) recently released a report stating that most of the dogs in the U.S. are overweight, their owners don’t know it, and their veterinarians don’t feel comfortable talking to their clients about it.  This feels like crazyland to me!

I think I have to agree with the premise that most people really don’t recognize their dogs’ weight problem. When I attempt to have conversations with the owners of fat larger breed dogs, nine times out of 10, the owner will say, “Well, his mother and father both weighed over 100 pounds, these are just a large breed!” Or, “He’s in the weight range for the breed standard!” Ignoring the fact that the dog has no waist whatsoever and is literally covered with fat rolls.

Small dog owners often just think their dogs are cute. And as long as they can pick them up, they don’t think the weight is a problem.

My own sister didn’t get serious about reducing the weight of her little dogs until Dinah, a presumed Chihuahua/Dachshund-mix, got so obese that she couldn’t maintain the hygiene of her own nether end and developed serious anal gland issues. WARNING: This is exceedingly gross to contemplate. Skip the next paragraph if you are easily grossed out!

When lick their own butts, it helps keep the anal glands in working order. Big dogs have fewer problems with their glands than small dogs partly because they have bigger, stronger tongues, which help massage and empty the glands when they lick their butts. When dogs like Dinah get too fat to reach their bottoms with their tongues, the glands can become impacted and infected unless the owner is aware of this and makes sure to either empty the glands or take the dog to a groomer or vet occasional to have the glands checked and emptied.

Anyway, to me, the most shocking part of the report is the allegation that 84% of the veterinarians who responded to the survey said they don’t want to upset their clients by talking about their dogs’ weight. But health and weight are so linked in dogs! I think that if a vet fails to discuss a dog’s overweight it’s a total dereliction of their veterinary duty! The problems associated with or directly caused by obesity in dogs are legion!

And yet, I get it. A vet only gets so much time with a client, and it probably often feels like there isn’t enough time to talk about the dog’s more pressing health issues and the overweight condition—even if the obesity may have contributed to the problem. Even at well-pet visits, people often spend more time discussing flea and heartworm preventives, vaccines, and the like.

My friend Tim Steele, a gifted dog trainer (who broke my heart by moving from my area to Florida a couple years ago), once told me that he never talks directly to dog owners about their dogs’ weight problems; he addresses his concerns to the dog—in front of the owner, obviously!  He’ll say, “Oh my goodness, who is measuring your food? Or are you sneaking into the refrigerator at night?! I think you need to get on a little diet!” Often, he reports, the owner will join the “conversation” at that point, saying something like, “Do you really think he needs to be on a diet?” instead of feeling directly confronted. I think that’s a genius approach—and perhaps one I can recommend to veterinarians!

My appreciation to reporter Tim Wall of Petfood Industry for being the first to cover the APOP’s 2023 survey.

Common Sounds Dogs Hate

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Vacuum cleaners and other sounds dogs hate can be a source of stress for a dog.
The noise vacuum cleaners make is among the most common sounds dogs hate. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

It’s no secret that dogs as a species have better hearing than humans. Exactly how much better is still a matter of scientific investigation, but studies have shown that dogs’ hearing is both more sensitive and has more range, particularly at the higher-frequency end of the scale, than our own. This can create complications when things that sound fine—or are even inaudible—to us come across as painfully loud or jarring to our canine companions.

While every individual is different, there are some noises that are more likely to make dogs uncomfortable or frightened. Among the most common sounds dogs hate are:

  • Vacuum Cleaners: Why do dogs hate vacuums? They are loud, often make high-pitched whistling noises, move strangely (if you’re a dog), create vibrations that can be felt through the floor, and smell weird.
  • Thunderstorms: Thunderstorms can be particularly hard on sound-sensitive dogs. The sound of thunder is just one piece of it—barometric pressure changes, flashing lightning, wind, and rain noise may also be part of what your dog is afraid of.
  • Fireworks/Gunshots: Loud, explosive noises that seemingly come out of nowhere—often accompanied by flashes of light and strong smells—can be terrifying to dogs.
  • Alarms/Sirens: From smoke alarms in the kitchen to fire trucks on the street, high-pitched, repetitive alarms and sirens can trigger negative reactions.

The noises listed above are just some of the standard culprits when it comes to sounds dogs hate. Lawnmowers, hairdryers, power tools, crying babies, big trucks or buses passing on the street, and car horns also regularly make the list.

When Sounds Dogs Hate Become a Problem

Dog and human alike, most of us have some kind of startle reaction to sudden, loud noises. If your dog jumps when you accidentally drop a metal cooking pot on the hard kitchen floor, that’s totally normal. Chances are, I would too. If she quickly returns to whatever she was doing and doesn’t show any signs of being further bothered by the experience, you probably don’t need to do anything other than to try not to drop too many things around her.

However, if you drop a pot and your dog runs and hides for an extended period of time, refuses to return to the kitchen on her own, or gets anxious whenever you pick up a pot, she may need some help to get through her fear of the noise—particularly if it is something that occurs regularly in her life. This kind of sound sensitivity is, perhaps, easiest to identify in dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms. A few drops of rain or a rumble of thunder so far away a human can barely hear it may send a sound-sensitive dog into a panic as she anticipates the terrible noise to come.

Fearful reactions to sounds can range from mild upset to extreme terror. As discussed in “Is Your Dog Afraid of Noises?”, there are a number of ways to help your dog deal with sounds she is sensitive to:

  • Management comes first. Figure out which sounds are upsetting your dog and find ways to remove or mitigate them. Mitigation can include taking her to a quiet, well insulated room, putting her in a covered crate if she is comfortable being crated, and a using white noise machine or music to help block out the noise.
  • Behavior modification techniques such as counter-conditioning and desensitization can be used to help your dog overcome her fear of sounds. Make sure you understand exactly what you need to do before starting a desensitization/counter-conditioning program since doing it incorrectly can make fearful responses worse.
  • Professional help can be invaluable when dealing with a significant fear reaction to specific sounds. Don’t be afraid to consult with a good fear-free behaviorist on desensitization techniques. A veterinarian may also have recommendations for medications to help keep your dog calm if she is fearful to the point of potentially injuring herself.

How to Desensitize a Dog to Sounds

Depending on the severity of the problem, desensitizing a dog to sounds that frighten her can be a challenging, time-consuming undertaking. As mentioned above, it is important to understand how desensitization and counter-conditioning function before getting started to avoid scaring the dog further. If you are at all uncertain about how to proceed, it is extremely important to talk to a professional first.

Desensitization works by gradually exposing the dog to the fear-causing noise by starting at a very low intensity and increasing it slowly as the dog gets comfortable with the sound. For a dog afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, this usually means beginning with a recording of the noise played almost inaudibly and, over time, raising the volume little bit by little bit. Properly done, the sound should never reach a level that triggers a full fear response.

Desensitization usually goes hand-in-hand with counter-conditioning, which seeks to replace fear of the sound with positive associations. This needs to be done as a deliberate part of the desensitization program with good things—such as favorite toys, cuddles, games, and treats—coming when the dog is relatively calm in the presence of the problem sounds.

For an in-depth, step-by-step discussion of counter-conditioning and how to desensitize a dog to sounds see “Dogs With An Unhealthy Fear of Storms and Loud Noises.”

Download The Full June 2024 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
  • Unplanned Weight Loss
  • Dogs Can Get Sunburn
  • Understanding Reactivity
  • Is Your Dog Depressed?
  • Physical Therapy
  • Winning Body Language
  • Leptospirosis
  • Bully-Stick Holders
  • Stop Fence-Jumping
  • Microchip Your Dog!
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Relieving Anxiety

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Separation Anxiety eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Have you ever had the misfortune of walking into your house to find overturned furniture, inches-deep claw gouges on door frames, blood-stained tooth marks on window sills, and countless messages on your answering machine from neighbors complaining about your dog barking and howling for hours on end in your absence? If so, you’re probably familiar with the term “separation anxiety” – a mild label for a devastating and destructive behavior.

Most separation anxiety behavior happens within 30 minutes of the owner’s departure and within a similar period before the owner’s anticipated return. This is one of the keys to determining whether your dog’s behavior is truly an anxiety reaction or simply a bout of puppy hijinks.

If you can leave and come back in an hour to an unscathed home but four hours puts him over the top, chances are you’re dealing with boredom, excessive energy, or a housetraining issue rather than true separation anxiety. (Some dogs will become destructive in their efforts to go outside to relieve themselves if they are very committed to not soiling the house.)

For more details and advice on ways to prevent and cure canine separation anxiety, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Separation Anxiety.

“He Bit Without Warning!”

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Resource Guarding eBook from Whole Dog Journal

During resource-guarding, dogs exhibit components of ritualized aggression. That is, they have a fairly explicit hierarchy of warnings – accelerated eating, cessation of eating or “freezing up,” glassy/hard eyes, growling, lip lifting, snapping, biting – that they’ll run through to get a competitor (YOU!) to back away from what they have. They’re nervous that you’re there and don’t want to share.

Trainers and behaviorists take these warnings and apply a rating scale, ranging from reactions that pose no risk to humans to those that are extremely serious. A rough eight-level guide is useful for owners and trainers to assess the situation but some dogs don’t follow such a neat hierarchal scale. A dog can move from a growl to a serious bite in a matter of seconds.

Trainers often hear the cry, “he bit without warning!” More often than not, there was a warning, somewhere, sometime – we just missed it.

For more advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, purchase and download the ebook from Whole Dog Journal, Resource Guarding.

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