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How Homeopathy Works for Your Dog

Two dogs have itchy skin and small open sores on their legs. Or they both have a fever or a trauma injury or infected ears.

One goes to a conventional veterinarian and receives antibiotics, steroids, or other symptom-suppressing drugs.

The other goes to a veterinary homeopath, who studies the dog’s symptoms and asks all kinds of questions about his behavior and actions while looking things up in a book or computer. The homeopath selects a remedy, gives the dog a single dose, and instructs the owner to wait, watch, and report back.

Homeopathic Remedies

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The remedy is chosen not because it reduces or eliminates the dog’s symptoms but because by itself, when given to a healthy patient, it actually produces those same symptoms. And the remedy is so dilute that it contains not a single molecule of the substance on the label.

Welcome to the world of homeopathy, one of the most interesting and controversial alternative therapies and forms of “energy medicine.” Does it work? Is it a fraud? Is it safe? Are you and your dog good candidates for this approach to healing?

“Like cures like”
Homeopathy was developed in the early 1800s by Samuel Hahnemann, a German physician. He wrote, “If a medicine administered to a healthy person causes a certain syndrome of symptoms, that medicine will cure a sick person who presents similar symptoms.”

Dr. Hahnemann discovered this principle when he experimented with quinine from the bark of the Peruvian cinchona tree, which was widely used to treat malaria. Dr. Hahnemann, who did not have malaria, was startled when he developed malaria symptoms each time he took quinine. He then experimented with different medications that he administered to himself and healthy volunteers, documenting their responses.

Because several of the preparations were toxic, Dr. Hahnemann tried to reduce adverse effects by giving the drugs in very small doses, but in many cases, this made the reactions worse. Diluting the preparations in stages, he found, maintained their effect while eliminating their toxicity. In fact, he discovered that a greater dilution coupled with agitation of the mixture (his first solutions were jostled as he traveled in a horse-drawn carriage) seemed to enhance the medicine’s effect.

Homeopathic remedies are made from vegetable, mineral, and animal sources. With each step, the substance is diluted by a factor of 10 or 100, and the mixture is subjected to a series of “succussions,” shakes, or poundings. In Dr. Hahnemann’s day, this work was all done by hand. Today it is partly mechanized.

Homeopathic remedies are generally made into tiny round pills, tablets, or granules, or presented as liquid remedies in dropper bottles.

Potent differences
The potency of homeopathic medicines is measured according to the number of dilutions and successions they have undergone. The centesimal scale, which is commonly used in the United States, measures dilution by 100 and uses the abbreviation “c.” One drop of the original or “mother” tincture diluted in 99 drops of water is a 1c preparation (1 in 100). One drop of 1c solution in 99 drops of water is a 2c preparation (1 in 10,000). One drop of 2c solution in 99 drops of water is a 3c preparation (1 in 1,000,000); and so on.

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The decimal scale measures dilution by 10 and uses the abbreviation “x.”

While the most common potencies (6x, 3c, 6c, 12c, and 30c) are available over the counter in homeopathic pharmacies, health food stores, drugstores, mail order catalogs, and online, higher potencies are reserved for professional use. Very high homeopathic potencies, such as 1M strength (1M equals 1,000c), are considered the most powerful and usually require a written prescription.

The alleged strength of extremely dilute solutions is one of the paradoxes of homeopathic medicine. Critics argue that a solution so dilute that it contains no chemically measurable trace of the ingredient on the label can’t have an effect on anything and that homeopathy must be a hoax, or its cures are caused by the placebo effect, or its satisfied patients are under the spell of a mass delusion. Homeopathy’s basic premise simply doesn’t make sense to Western physicians.

But it does make sense to many biophysicists and other research scientists.

Medical journalist Lynne McTaggart is author of The Field: The Quest for the Secret Force of the Universe, a review of recent scientific investigations of energy. She learned that conservative medical researchers studying the behavior of water had, without realizing it, discovered that homeopathy’s underlying premise that dilution increases a solution’s strength is not science fiction but a fact of nature.

In studies conducted between 1985 and 1989, Dr. Jacques Benveniste, a French physician and allergy researcher who knew nothing about homeopathy, repeatedly found that when antibodies (anti-IgE molecules) were diluted in water, the resulting solutions inhibited dye absorption just as full-strength solutions did, even when there was no possibility of a single molecule of the original substance in the solution.

Although the potency of the anti-IgE molecules was at its highest in early stage dilutions and then fell through successive dilutions, the experiment’s results changed abruptly at the ninth dilution. From then on, the IgE’s effects increased with each dilution. “As homeopathy had always claimed,” McTaggart writes, “the weaker the solution, the more powerful its effect.”

Dr. Benveniste and his staff then worked with five different laboratories in France, Israel, Italy, and Canada, all of which replicated his results. The 13 scientists who conducted the experiments jointly published the results of their four-year collaboration in a 1988 edition of Nature, a prestigious scientific journal. Their article described how when solutions of antibodies were repeatedly diluted until they no longer contained a single molecule of the antibody, they still produced a response from immune cells.

The authors concluded that none of the original molecules were present in certain dilutions and that “specific information must have been transmitted during the dilution/shaking process. Water could act as a template for the molecule, for example, by an infinite hydrogen-bonded network, or electric and magnetic fields…. The precise nature of this phenomenon remains unexplained.”

The editor of Nature found this so incredible that he appended an editorial questioning the results. There followed a firestorm of controversy, including investigations by a scientific “fraud squad” led by a professional magician (not by scientists familiar with the research methods) who accused Dr. Benveniste and his fellow researchers of not following scientific protocols and concluded that their findings were without merit. But in the 20 years since the article’s publication, research at laboratories around the world has only confirmed its original findings.

Practically no one today knows that in the 19th century, homeopathy was widely practiced in the U.S. and Canada and that it was in fact the preferred system of medicine, being more effective and far safer than the techniques and drugs used by allopathic physicians. During yellow fever and cholera epidemics, patients treated by homeopaths had much higher survival rates than those treated allopathically.

When allopathic physicians gained a medical monopoly, homeopathy’s popularity in North America declined, but it remains mainstream medicine in India, Europe, and other parts of the world. Meanwhile, in the U.S. and Canada, homeopathy is being rediscovered. About 200 veterinary homeopaths are listed at the websites of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association and the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy.

Members of the Academy are trained in Dr. Hahnemann’s methods, called “classical” homeopathy. In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given alone, not in combination with other remedies, and it is usually given once, not repeatedly. Remedies are selected according to the patient’s unique symptoms, not his or her disease, which is why two puppies with kennel cough could be treated with entirely different remedies.

Even the word “symptom” has special meaning in homeopathy. You might think that kennel cough is kennel cough, but to a classically trained homeopath, the symptoms that matter include whether your dog wants attention or avoids it, prefers to lie on her right or left side, or seeks warm or cool surfaces. Classical homeopaths train their clients to observe and document all changes in behavior, even those that ordinarily seem insignificant.

Homeopathy in action
Judith Herman, DVM, practiced conventional veterinary medicine in Augusta, Maine, for 15 years until, in the early 1990s, she watched a horse die from a vaccine reaction. Alternatives to by-the-book conventional care suddenly seemed more interesting. At about the same time, two of her canine patients responded well to homeopathic remedies and their owners suggested she look into the subject.

Dr. Herman joined a homeopathic study group and liked what she found. “It made sense,” she says, “and most importantly, it worked.” In 1993, she enrolled in the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy and studied with its founder, Richard Pitcairn, DVM, PhD. Today her practice focuses almost exclusively on homeopathy, and she heads the AVH certification committee.

The most common conditions Dr. Herman treats include fevers, urinary tract infections, whelping problems, irritable bowel disease, pancreatitis, ACL (anterior cruciate ligament) injuries, kennel cough, chronic skin diseases such as sarcoptic mange, autoimmune disorders, and cancers.

Sometimes the results are immediate and dramatic. This summer, Dr. Herman’s veterinary technician raced to the clinic with her puppy and the toxic brown mushroom the puppy had just bitten. “The puppy had excruciating cramps, projectile vomiting, and diarrhea,” she says. “This type of poisoning usually requires hospitalization, but within 10 to 15 minutes of being dosed with homeopathic arsenicum, which was the remedy that best matched her symptoms, she was fine and needed no other treatment.”

Even a dog hit by a car and suffering multiple factures can be treated with homeopathy. In that situation, Dr. Herman gives a remedy to help with the immediate problem, then sets the bones or sends the dog to another veterinarian for treatment, and follows up with a remedy that speeds healing. “If a dog undergoes surgery,” she says, “homeopathy cuts the recovery time by half or more. I truly can’t think of any condition or situation where I wouldn’t try homeopathy first.”

Dosing and antidoting
Homeopathic remedies are different from conventional drugs in several ways. Because they preserve the “energy” or “vibration” of the substances they’re made from, it’s important to preserve their energy signature by storing and using them correctly.

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Don’t store homeopathic remedies in kitchen cupboards or bathroom medicine cabinets. Instead, keep them in a cool, dark, quiet, dry linen closet, dresser drawer, or basement shelf. Be sure their storage area is far from sunny windows, fluorescent light fixtures, power lines, electrical appliances, cell phones, computers, microwave ovens, and fuse boxes. Keep remedy containers tightly closed when not in use.

Whether you’re treating your pet with tiny pellets from a glass or plastic vial or a small brown envelope, or administering a liquid remedy from a dropper bottle, the number of pellets or drops generally doesn’t matter. More isn’t better, especially in sensitive patients where the number of pellets or drops administered is more significant. For best results, get at least some of the remedy into the dog’s mouth and hold the mouth closed for three seconds.

Don’t touch the remedy with your hands, and discard any pellets that fall to the floor. Don’t expose remedies to strong fragrances, cigarette or incense smoke, or anything containing camphor, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, peppermint, or other strong scents. Keep your pet away from these items as well, because they can “antidote” or neutralize the remedy, even hours or days after treatment.

Give the remedy at least 30 to 60 minutes before or after feeding the dog any meal or treat. Wait at least five to ten minutes before letting the dog drink plain water.

In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given by itself, and if it’s the correct remedy, it stimulates a cure. But in some cases, a remedy may have to be repeated, or a different remedy is needed. Homeopathy is such a complex subject that an experienced veterinary homeopath is your best guide to the selection of remedies, correct remedy strength, and the timing of use.

What to watch for
Homeopaths need detailed descriptions in order to match your dog’s symptoms to the best remedy. To provide this information, get in the habit of writing down any unusual behaviors or actions.

For example, what is your dog’s energy level? Is she more or less active than usual?

Does he have any obvious symptoms, like vomiting, diarrhea, fever, discharges, stiffness, or changes in ear position, posture, or facial expression?

Do any symptoms get better or worse with changes in weather, after rest or exercise, at a particular time of day or night, after eating, or in response to touch or pressure?

When you pet, stroke, or massage your dog, do you notice anything different, like swollen lymph nodes or muscle spasms?

Does your dog prefer warm or cool surfaces? Lying on her left or right side? Is she more or less thirsty? More or less hungry? Having more or fewer bowel movements? Changes in urination?

Has your dog’s behavior changed? Does your independent dog suddenly want to sit on your lap? Does your snuggle puppy want to go off by herself?

Keep careful track of homeopathic remedies that you administer, noting the date and time as well as any changes in your dog’s condition or behavior in the hours and days that follow.

Whether you work with a homeopath in person or by phone or e-mail, have this information handy so you can answer questions and provide accurate descriptions.

The “healing crisis”
Homeopathic treatment often includes a “healing crisis,” in which the patient gets worse before getting better. Just how much worse the patient becomes is a subject fraught with confusion and controversy.

The healing crisis, if it occurs, usually manifests within a week or two of treatment, but it can take place within a day. And sometimes, it can give rise to symptoms that seem far more dramatic than the dog’s original health problem – although, homeopaths suggest, these symptoms should resolve quickly.

Some caregivers have followed their homeopath’s instructions only to watch in horror as the dog’s minor symptoms become incredibly painful. If they aren’t able to reach their homeopath for further instructions, they may turn to a conventional veterinarian for help. Because conventional treatment interferes with homeopathy, the emergency care becomes a cause of strife between client and homeopath, and in memorable cases, homeopaths have “fired” clients who resorted to conventional care, refusing to ever see their dogs again.

In July 2000, Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns took her then-10-year-old Border Collie, Rupert, to a veterinary homeopath, with the goal of finding some lasting relief for Rupert’s chronic allergies. After taking a lengthy history and conducting a physical exam, the homeopath prescribed a remedy.

About 12 hours after being given the remedy, Rupert experienced a dramatic crisis. His ears became inflammed and filled with pus, and, in an apparent effort to find relief, he shook his head so hard, he broke a blood vessel in one ear flap. The flap quickly filled with blood and fluid and stood out from his head in a rigid and clearly painful fashion. He staggered sideways and whimpered in pain.

“I was frantic,” says Kerns. “The first thing I did was call the homeopath. But her voicemail indicated she was out of town for a few days. She did leave contact information for another veterinary homeopath who could help with emergencies, but this vet was far away, and Rupert was in agony. I felt I had to take him to a veterinarian who could see and respond to his new symptoms, and I took him to a conventional emergency vet clinic.”

Kerns knew that the conventional medical response to such a dramatic ear infection would be a prescription for antibiotics, and that the hematoma would have to be lanced, stitched, and bandaged. She also learned that steroids would be prescribed to reduce the inflammation.

“I knew from reading and writing about homeopathy that steroids and antibiotics are anethema to many homeopaths; I guessed that the practitioner I saw would be upset about these developments. But Rupert was suffering acutely; I would have done anything that would help him feel better fast.”

When the homeopath returned, Kerns steeled herself for a lecture. “Sure enough, she was furious with me,” says Kerns. “She told me that the dramatic reaction had been evidence that the remedy had worked; it was moving the problem from the inside of my dog to the outside, which is supposed to be a good thing. She told me that the steroids and antibiotics had probably set back Rupert’s healing process by weeks or months, and it would be far more difficult to stimulate his body to deal with all the chronic and now acute wreckage. And she said that if I were anyone else, she would have fired me as a client on the spot. Well, I didn’t expect or want special treatment, and I didn’t have to be asked to leave; I didn’t consult this practitioner again.

“I have heard hundreds of stories from dog owners who say that homeopathy has cured their dogs. It does seem to be a powerful tool, and sometimes succeeds where other treatments do not. But the experience I had with Rupert made me concerned about the whole process. If maintaining the purity of the treatment in hopes of a future cure is more important than alleviating my dog’s immediate suffering – well, that doesn’t fit my definition of compassionate medicine. I would try homeopathy again, but only if the practitioner understood that I would also use conventional medicine if I thought the situation warranted its use.”

Dr. Herman sympathizes. “When the dog’s condition is accurately diagnosed and the correct remedy is used,” she says, “the healing crisis, if there is one at all, should be minor. We try not to disturb it because it’s like a skirmish, a small battle, between the patient’s vital force and the disease. The remedy comes in and triggers a reaction from the vital force, and that’s when you see a temporary worsening of symptoms.”

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Last week Dr. Herman treated a young dog for kennel cough. The next day he was better, but the day after that he was suddenly worse. She reassured the owner and asked her to wait and watch a little longer, and by the following day, the dog was completely fine.

Dr. Herman’s first patient was her own Golden Retriever, Patrick. When she first took up homeopathy, she gave him a remedy for a skin condition. He improved for 24 hours, then his eyes began to tear and water. He was eating normally and was active and playful but his face was drenched. The next day his eyes were dry. That evening, he started itching and he scratched all night.

“I was definitely worried,” she says, “but he acted like himself when I called him, so I waited and hoped for the best.” By the next day, he was better and his itching and scratching decreased until those symptoms disappeared as well.

“These are examples of how a healing crisis should work,” says Dr. Herman. “The patient’s vital force is activated and healing begins from within.

“But if the patient gets dramatically worse and is in terrible pain, that’s an indication that the homeopath didn’t choose the right remedy or potency. There are over a thousand remedies and each one corresponds to a specific set of symptoms. It’s impossible to keep all this information in your head, so you have to look things up, and because several remedies treat similar combinations of symptoms, it takes time and patience to find the perfect match. Whenever I hear about a homeopathic remedy triggering an extreme healing crisis, I know it wasn’t the right remedy or potency.”

Dr. Herman appreciates the frustration of both homeopath and client when animals suffer. “The antidote to the painful effects of a wrong remedy is finding and using the right remedy or potency,” she says. “This works best if the case isn’t complicated by the administration of symptom-suppressing drugs.”

At the same time, Dr. Herman acknowledges, “We never want our dogs to suffer. I respect my clients’ decisions about treatment even when I would prefer to do something different, and so do most of the veterinary homeopaths I know. Conventional care can interrupt homeopathic treatment, but it isn’t necessarily true that it interferes to such an extent that the dog can’t ever be successfully treated with homeopathy in the future.”

Finding the right homeopath
Searching for the right veterinary homeopath is like searching for the perfect dentist, hairdresser, or dog trainer. You want someone with the right combination of technical skill, patience, and personality. Some conventional veterinarians consult with and recommend veterinary homeopaths. Trainers, groomers, dog clubs, health food stores, and pet supply stores may be able to refer you to a local homeopath. Some homeopaths maintain websites that explain the subject in detail.

One of the best ways to find a veterinary homeopath, Dr. Herman advises, is to go to the website for the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (see “Resources Mentioned in This Article,” page 13). “Here the veterinarians who are certified have gone through a long process of evaluation and testing,” she explains. “They use a standard of practice that follows the Organon, the teachings of Hahnemann. They must maintain continuing education credits. Certification stands for a proven level of understanding and competence in these practitioners. The dog’s guardian will feel more confidence in the abilities of a certified veterinary homeopath than someone of unknown credentials.”

A veterinary homeopath who is always available for follow-up questions is a blessing, especially for new clients. “I’m on call for my clients 24/7,” says Dr. Herman. “They want to know whether they should repeat a remedy, give a new remedy, or go to the emergency room. Much of my work is a combination of education and hand-holding.”

Sometimes the homeopath is a considerable distance away, working with clients or conventional veterinarians by phone or email. Long-distance consultations are common.

“When I travel in North America,” says Dr. Herman, “I’m in phone contact with my clients, but when I go to Europe, a veterinary homeopath in Louisiana covers for me, and I do the same for her when she travels.”

Is your dog a candidate?
Although most homeopaths believe that homeopathy can help any dog in any condition, some dogs are better candidates for success than others.

“The most challenging cases,” says Dr. Herman, “are older dogs with long-standing chronic conditions, especially those who are fed a supermarket kibble and have received annual vaccinations along with conventional symptom-suppressing drugs. I feed a raw diet and recommend it to my clients because, in my experience, dogs on raw food respond better and faster to homeopathy. Younger dogs who are otherwise in good health, physically active, and on a raw diet usually respond quickly to remedies.”

For those who aren’t able to feed raw, Dr. Herman recommends upgrading the commercial diet and adding raw meat whenever possible. “And even those who switch to raw may have to experiment,” she says. “We have a few dogs who do best on a raw diet that includes some grains, while most do better on a grain-free diet. My own dog hates vegetables. There isn’t a single diet that’s perfect for all dogs, but the more you feed fresh, raw, high-quality ingredients, the more likely it is that your dog will respond well to homeopathy.”

Some veterinary homeopaths report that the patient’s response to homeopathy can be enhanced by supplements that improve digestion and assimilation, including probiotics and digestive enzymes.

Are you a candidate?
Healthcare is so strongly affected by cultural conditioning that many people will never consider trying homeopathy. It’s just too different from what they’re used to.

Others may be interested but are so used to suppressing symptoms that the thought of letting a fever run its course or waiting through a day of discomfort raises their own stress levels. The clients most likely to obtain good results are those who learn the basics of homeopathy, know how to administer remedies, carefully observe their pets, and record symptoms. These clients understand that homeopathy isn’t necessarily a quick fix and that problems a conventional veterinarian might diagnose as acute or new, like ear infections, usually aren’t acute at all – they’re chronic problems that just got worse.

“Yes, you can suppress the symptoms with drugs,” says Dr. Herman, “but the symptoms will come back and will be harder to cure. That’s what most people have trouble grasping. They’re used to thinking that once symptoms disappear, the patient is cured forever. But we all know dogs who get treated with symptom-suppressing drugs and whose problems keep coming back. In truth, the symptoms never went away, they just got buried for a while.

“In the end,” she says, “everything depends on the caregiver. That includes the person’s interest in the healing process and his or her expectations. My job is to make the animal as comfortable as I can while respecting the owner’s decisions.”

Dr. Herman’s first patient, her own Patrick, convinced her of the value of homeopathy. “Most Golden Retrievers have inherited health problems,” she says, “and he was no exception. His mother died of lymphoma 10 months after giving birth. His father died at seven of hemangiosarcoma. I removed a precancerous tumor from Patrick when he was one year old. His hips popped out for the first year of his life, and he had chronic hip problems.”

Patrick was three when Dr. Herman discovered homeopathy. “Thanks to the right remedy, his skin improved every year, becoming less and less of a problem as he got older,” she says. “He didn’t begin limping until he was 11, and he was still active and enjoying life. At age 14, he suffered a seizure and I realized he had a brain tumor. We had four more months together, and then he passed on.

“When I told his breeder, she was amazed that he lived so long because every other dog in his line had died by age eight. I was the only one who fed a raw diet and used homeopathy. Everyone in his line – aunts, uncles, parents, grandparents, siblings, nieces, and nephews – died at age seven or eight, and Patrick lived almost twice that long with so few problems. He’s a big reason why you I am convinced that homeopathy, even in a worst case, can always do something to help a dog.”

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to Whole Dog Journal, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques.

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Keep an Open Mind

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Last month, I introduced a series of articles we’ll be running about forms of “energy medicine” available to dog owners. In this issue, author CJ Puotinen returns with the second installment of the series, describing flower essences, animal communication, and kinesiology.

Forgive me for addressing these topics again in this space, but in my experience, they need a personal introduction, as they can be difficult to accept. This is partially because they are not well-supported by the “gold standards” of evidence-based medicine, such as randomized, double-blind trials or even by meta-analysis of medical literature. They are not even well-explained by current scientific tools and techniques.

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Personal experience opened my eyes to them anyway. Some 17 years ago, I approached my first encounter with an animal communicator very skeptically; frankly, as a fresh journalism grad, I relished the chance to expose her as a fraud. Within minutes, my skepticism was in shambles. She not only accurately described the quirky behavior problems my young Border Collie displayed – which I had not yet described to her – but gave me the most helpful advice for dealing with those behaviors that I ever received. I couldn’t explain this in a million years, but I believed in it, whatever it was.

I used to be skeptical about kinesiology, too. One year, when I was attending the annual conference of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, Carolyn Blakey, a wonderful veterinarian who used complementary and alternative medicine, invited me to dinner. Our dining companions were two other holistic vets; the three of them probably had a century of medical practice among them. Dr. Blakey introduced me to the other vets, giving WDJ a warm review. One veterinarian, Dr. Howard Rand, asked me if WDJ had ever done an article on kinesiology. I cheerfully admitted that “muscle testing” was one of those things I just couldn’t buy; it was too “woo-woo” to put in the magazine.

After exchanging a smile with Dr. Blakey, Dr. Rand asked, “Would you be willing to try an experiment?” He had me press the tips of my forefinger and thumb together, making a circle; he made a similar circle, looped through mine. He told me he would ask me some questions, and invited me to answer with some truths and some lies. Dr. Rand didn’t ask which answers were which; this became plainly and perfectly apparent. He would tug at the circle my fingers made as I answered – and danged if my circle didn’t come apart every time I gave what only I knew to be an untruthful answer. Dr. Rand wasn’t diagnosing disease or prescribing a treatment, yet the principle behind muscle testing clearly worked. The vets laughed at the astonished look on my face. “Um . . . We’ll have to write about that someday!” was all I could say.

Not all practitioners of these techniques are as skilled as the ones described above – but neither are all conventional medical practi-tioners. Alternative techniques are often worth a try.

-Nancy Kerns

Canine Sports and Proper Canine Injury Prevention Through Conditioning

[Updated February 7, 2019]

Agility. Flyball. Freestyle. Disc. Dock diving. Sledding. Lure coursing. Water rescue. Herding. Skijoring. Retrieving. Tracking. Weight pulling. Schutzhund. And more!

Today’s explosion of canine sports has made sports medicine a veterinary specialty. But, says Carol Helfer, DVM, at Canine Peak Performance Sports Medicine & Physical Rehabilitation Center in Portland, Oregon, competing dogs are prone to injury not because their sports are inherently dangerous but because canine athletes seldom receive the conditioning training that keeps them strong, balanced, and coordinated.

Best Dog Exercises

“The whole notion of injury prevention through proper conditioning is one that’s just beginning to gather attention,” explains Dr. Helfer. “And that’s true for the veterinary community as well as dog handlers and trainers. What I love about this work is that a few simple exercises can dramatically change a dog’s quality of life. In athletic dogs, the proof is in their continued good health, enhanced performance, and absence of injuries. Elderly and sedentary dogs benefit, too, and they quickly show increased range of motion and a renewed enthusiasm for activities.”

How Dogs Work

When Dr. Helfer began to explore conditioning exercise, her attention was focused on canine athletes.

“I work a lot with agility dogs,” she says, “and I compete a little in agility myself. Just looking at how dogs use their bodies on the agility equipment and thinking about the kinds of injuries I see in the clinic got me interested in figuring out how to change things so that injuries would be less common. Once you get past some obvious problems, like poor course design or poor handling skills, most of it has to do with the dogs’ ability to quickly and accurately shift their weight.”

Best Dog Exercises

Because not everyone is a world-class handler, she says, people moving with their dogs often end up where they didn’t intend to be, or their commands are late, leaving dogs to twist, run, catch up, or move in a new direction. “In those situations,” she says, “the possibility of injury expands exponentially.”

Dr. Helfer realized that dogs who have good balance and core body strength quickly recover from not-so-great landings and rapid direction changes. Her findings agree with theories developed 80 years ago by fitness guru Joseph Pilates (pronounced Pih-LAH-tees), who focused on what he called “core” muscles: abdominal muscles and muscles around the lower back, pelvis, hips, and buttocks, all of which support the trunk of the body.

In humans, Pilates exercises flatten the stomach, improve posture, alleviate back pain, enhance athletic performance, improve balance and coordination, increase flexibility, improve range of motion, deepen breathing, alleviate stress and physical tension, reduce injuries, and increase body awareness. As Dr. Helfer suggests, there’s no reason why dogs can’t enjoy similar benefits from similar conditioning.

Suggested Conditioning Exercises for Dogs

To help keep her clients’ dogs active and agile, Dr. Helfer designed a series of exercises that she calls “trick training.” Most of the movements are familiar tricks, like rolling over, bowing, or chasing the tail. “What makes them work as core conditioning exercises,” she says, “is their daily application. And when a movement can be done in one direction, such as rolling over or chasing the tail, it’s important to do it in the opposite direction, too.”

Best Dog Exercises and Stretching

According to Dr. Helfer, most dogs have a preferred side – they are right-handed or left-handed, just like people – so it’s easy to default to the side the dog prefers. “But if you’re serious about core body strengthening, you have to work both sides and in many cases do more on the less-used side to bring things into balance.” No matter what your dog’s sport, says Dr. Helfer, his exercise plan should consist of three basic parts: endurance, strength, and skills.

“Endurance is the bedrock of the well-conditioned dog. To me this means 20 minutes or more of moderate-intensity exercise like trotting or swimming.

“Strength training is high-intensity, short-duration sprinting exercise, like turning on the afterburners for half a minute or so to fetch a ball or bumper, or just running really fast, chasing a Frisbee, or racing to a flyball. If you have a safe place to ride a bike with your dog running along, that works well, too. You can alternate between riding slowly and fast while your dog walks and runs beside you. Many dogs do well with daily sprint work, but you may want to put a day of rest between workouts.”

Best Dog Exercises

The skills portion of training is obvious. It involves familiarity with the sport and its equipment as well as regular practice.

All three components have to be in place for dogs to excel as athletes. “Too many people, when they’re competing in dog sports, think that going to class once a week and practicing in the backyard three or four times a week for 10 minutes at a time is sufficient conditioning for competition,” says Dr. Helfer. “When you look at what we ask our dogs to do with their bodies, you can see that that’s totally inadequate.”

When practicing or competing in agility or any other sport, take the time to warm your dog up and, after exertion, cool your dog down. “Give your dog a chance to move,” says Dr. Helfer. “All too often in agility, obedience, and other classes, you’ll see dogs and handlers standing around until it’s their turn, then the dog runs or jumps or whatever, and then the dog and handler stop and wait some more. This is a serious mistake when it comes to athletic training. Use that down time to get your dog warmed up, and when your turn is over, don’t just stop, keep moving and gradually slow your dog down. Warm-ups and cool-downs are two of the most neglected parts of training.”

Best Dog Exercises

Photo by Dr. Helfer

The Right Warm-Up Exercises for Dogs

To determine the right warm-up exercises for canine athletes, think about the work they’ll be doing. “To warm up the body for competition or practice,” says Dr. Helfer, “use the muscles you’ll use in the event. It doesn’t do much good to do hand stands if you’re going to run a hundred-yard dash. It’s difficult with dogs to isolate muscles that specifically, but when the event is weight pulling or sledding, the muscles you want to warm up are very different from the muscles used in agility or freestyle.”

For every patient, Dr. Helfer prepares a written home exercise program with suggestions for appropriate warm-ups prior to practice or competition. Walking, she says, is an excellent all-purpose warm-up that gets the muscles moving. Then consider the sport and whether it requires endurance, strength, or flexibility.

For example, skijoring, sled pulling, and tracking are primarily endurance sports, so dogs need more endurance work than sprint or strength work as part of their foundation conditioning. Weight-pulling is a strength sport and therefore requires more high-intensity/short-duration conditioning. Agility and disc catching require speed and flexibility.

Best Dog Exercises

Photo by Dr. Helfer

“As far as specific warm-ups for all of the different sports are concerned,” she says, “I think it’s best not to make things too complicated. Get your dog out of her crate in plenty of time to do a decent warm-up before your event. I usually start with a walk, moving into a trot for 5 to 10 minutes. If the event involves jumping, there is often a practice jump set up outside the competition area. Once you’ve done your initial warm-up, taking your dog over the practice jump a few times can begin to warm up those jumping muscles.”

Once the warm-up is out of the way, there is usually a delay before you get into the ring and begin competing. “While I’m standing in line,” she says, “I try to keep my dog moving with spins, begs, high-fives, etc. Doing this also helps you and your dog focus on each other prior to going into the ring.

Best Dog Exercises

“There is a fine line between a good warm-up and too much. The goal is to get your dog primed to go in and give her best possible performance. This will likely involve some experimentation and observation before you figure out what works best for your dog.”

Daily Conditioning Exercises for Dogs

Dr. Helfer recommends that young, athletic dogs who are in good health do each of the following exercises once or twice per day. Older dogs and dogs who are not used to exercise should begin more gradually, such as two or three exercises every other day, allowing ample time for recovery, then gradually increase the regimen as the dog’s fitness level improves.

“If there is one single thing I wish I could teach all handlers,” she says, “it’s that just because the dog will do an exercise doesn’t mean that he or she should do it. People often get into trouble because they don’t realize that their dogs are overdoing it. One reason they don’t notice is because they get caught up in the sport, paying more attention to the time clock or insisting on one more practice run without focusing on the dog, who may be tired, confused, or stressed. Another is because many dogs keep saying, ‘Let’s do some more!’ The Border Collie is the poster child of this problem, but Labrador Retrievers are just as bad, and really, any high-drive dogs who love what they’re doing cannot be counted on to tell you when they’ve had enough.

Best Dog Exercises

“We’re the ones with the big brains and the opposable thumbs; it’s up to us to figure out when it’s time to slow down, cool down, and rest – and to do that long before our dogs hurt themselves. When in doubt, err on the side of caution.” The following exercises can be done in any order and whenever it’s convenient throughout the day.

“A picture is worth a thousands words,” says Dr. Helfer, “so in addition to studying these instructions and checking the illustrations, I recommend the excellent new DVD by veterinarians Christine Zink and Laurie McCauley, Building the Canine Athlete: Strength, Stretch, Endurance, and Body Awareness Exercises. It demonstrates most of the exercises I use, and for someone who is serious about pursuing a conditioning program for dogs involved in any sport, I think this is an essential DVD.”

Roll Over

Here’s the perennial favorite. If your dog knows how to roll over on both sides, simply have him do one or two roll-overs in each direction. If, like most dogs, he rolls more in one direction than the other, start strengthening the opposite side by having him roll twice or three times from the less-used side for every time he rolls from his habitual side.

BOSU Balance Trainer ball

Photo by Dr. Carol Helfer

If your dog doesn’t know how to roll over, start with the dog in a down-stay and, holding a treat or toy near his nose, move it to the side of one shoulder, luring the head. After repeating and rewarding that motion, pull the lure up to the spine. When the dog begins to lose his balance, reward and praise him. Eventually, with time and practice, he will roll onto his back and then all the way over.

Scratch Your Back

Some dogs love to lie on their backs, and if you rub their bellies, they’ll wriggle from side to side. Many dogs do this as they roll in grass or in snow. “This is a terrific core strengthening exercise,” says Dr. Helfer. “Do this for several seconds a few times, trying for a longer scratch each time.”

Down Dog and Up Dog (Bow and Stretch)

All dogs bow. The easiest way to teach this trick is to wait for your dog to come out of her crate or stand after sleeping. When she stretches all the way from fully extended front feet to up-in-the-air tail, give a click or praise and reward. In yoga, this is the “down dog” posture.

Best Dog Exercises

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Most dogs follow or precede the bow with a second stretch by pulling their bodies forward and dragging the hind feet. In yoga, this is the “up dog” posture.

“I love these positions for their flexibility,” says Dr. Helfer. “There just aren’t many things you can convince a dog to do that will extend the spine like this. Bowing and stretching are easy ways to get that much-needed spine extension.”

Neck Stretch

With your dog standing, use a treat to lure the head up and back as far as it will go, then to the left and to the right, and down to the floor between the legs, pulling the treat back toward the hind legs. Move slowly so the neck muscles really stretch. Pause and repeat, trying for a slightly longer extension and duration.

Spin (Chase Your Tail)

An easy way to teach this trick is to lure your standing dog to the left or right with a treat or toy. Canine freestylers use this maneuver in dance routines, and it’s a fun addition to loose-lead walking. Have your dog spin three or four times in each direction. Alternate between having your dog on your left and on your right while he’s doing the spins. Or simply teach the command and encourage your dog to make as many turns as possible.

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Sit Up and Beg

“This is a great core-conditioning exercise,” says Dr. Helfer, “although I approach it with caution if a dog has any history of back problems, and this is not an exercise for Dachshunds. Dogs who are significantly overweight shouldn’t try it, either, until they slim down and get in shape. Most core-conditioning exercises are very safe and simple, but I suggest that anyone whose dog might have back health issues check with their veterinarian before trying it.

“Other than that,” she says, “this is my favorite exercise for building core body strength. It’s usually very easy for small dogs, but I’ve taught it to large dogs and older dogs, and it’s done wonders for their coordination.

“Start slowly and gradually build up your dog’s duration. Your starting point depends on the dog’s condition; for many dogs, it starts as a simple stretching exercise in which all four feet stay on the floor. Using a cookie or other treat, lure the dog’s head up as far as it will go and hold that position for a few seconds. Just the act of holding the body up, stretching the neck, and reaching up with the head involves tightening and conditioning key muscles.

“There are many variations you can do once the dog is comfortable holding the position for 10 to 20 seconds. One variation is to hold a treat as a lure so that the dog looks up, down, to the left, and to the right while maintaining her balance in the beg position. “If you want to make it even more challenging, put the dog on a slight incline, such as the end of a dog walk or see-saw or outdoors on a hill, first facing down the incline, then facing up, and then to each side on the incline.”

High Five!

Reaching up with one paw exercises shoulders, front legs, and elbows. Do two or three on each side, aiming for a slightly higher extension and slightly longer duration each time. If your dog favors one side, have her raise the opposite paw an extra time or two.

Walk Backward

This isn’t a body strengthening exercise, says Dr. Helfer, but it helps prevent injury by making the dog more aware of where his rear legs are. Simply walk into your dog until he starts moving backward. Working in a narrow area, like a hallway or between two rows of chairs, helps keep the dog moving in a straight line. As your dog becomes proficient, have him walk longer distances backward, then faster, and, where possible, uphill.

Tug of War

“When I play tug with my dogs,” says Dr. Helfer, “I let them control the movement. I think that letting the dog pull a tug toy straight back is preferable to swinging the dog from side to side, which I see a lot of people do. I don’t know for a fact that a swinging motion is harmful, but for core conditioning, I think a straight-back pulling motion works best.

“You can make the game interesting by standing still and resisting while the dog pulls back, then release the pressure slightly and pull the toy back toward you. If the dog wants to go from side to side, he has complete control of the motion, and that’s fine. The other potential problem I see with tug toys is when a dog comes tearing toward you at top speed and grabs the rope toy. If you hold on tight, which many people do, your dog’s neck gets whipped around severely. That always makes me wince.”

Depending on how you hold the tug, your dog’s pulling motions will strengthen his front or back muscles. “Hold the tug close to the floor and he’ll use his front end,” she says, “whereas if you hold it slightly above his head, he’ll use his rear end more. Some dogs haven’t read that rule book, though, and they do the opposite. Just play with your dog and aim for a whole-body workout.”

Crawl

Some people teach their dogs to crawl by combining the signals for “down” and “come.” Others call their dogs under dining room tables, coffee tables, and other furniture or home-made obstacles, lowering their height until the dog moves forward while flat on the floor.

Side Sit-Ups

With your dog lying on her side, place one hand on the dog’s hip and with the other hold a treat near her nose. “You want to lure the dog to lift her head a few inches without pushing up on an elbow,” says Dr. Helfer, “so that the muscles in the neck and trunk do the lifting.” Start with two or three repetitions of gentle movement on each side, and gradually increase the lift as the dog’s muscles grow stronger.

Keep Your Balance

If you have a rocking chair and if your dog is small enough to sit in it, simply rock the chair back and forth. Your dog will automatically shift her weight to correct her balance with every change of motion.

“With a small dog,” says Dr. Helfer, “you can do something similar with an office chair that swivels. Gently turn the chair one way and then another.”

Dogs can also use products sold for human conditioning, such as BOSU “Balance Trainer” balls. A BOSU Balance Trainer looks like a therapy ball that’s been cut in half so that the person (or dog) can balance on the round side, which is usually easy, or the flat side, which is more challenging. “If you gently push your dog from side to side, with your hands on his hips or shoulders,” says Dr.

Helfer, “he’ll have to adjust his balance in response. If the dog is too large to stand on the ball with all four feet, try it with the front feet on, then the back feet.

“I do the same kind of thing with couch cushions. Take cushions off your couch, set them on the floor, and have your dog stand on them while you give a gentle push from one side and then the other. Or do this on an air mattress or any surface that’s slightly unpredictable.”

There are also rubber balance discs, wobble boards, and other balancing equipment made for humans that can be adapted to canine use.

“Not only do you strengthen the dog’s core by challenging his balance,” says Dr. Helfer, “but you improve his responses and quicken his reflexes.”

Your Dog is Never Too Old to Stretch

Core training benefits all dogs, not just those involved in competition. “My favorite success story is Jill, a Husky-Labrador mix who was a typical, creaky 14-year-old big dog. I’d been doing hydrotherapy with her for quite a while to keep her mobile, and then her owner started bringing her to my Old Dog Exercise Class. Jill’s breakthrough came when she learned to sit up and beg. That was pretty impressive!

“I hear people say their dogs are too old to do much, but they’re mistaken. Old age is not a disease. The longer you can keep dogs active, the healthier they’ll be and the longer you’ll enjoy their company. Sometimes you have to step down the intensity of the activity or its duration, but you’ve got to keep them moving.”

Watch Your Dog

Some of your best core conditioning training tips, says Dr. Helfer, can come directly from your dog. Just watch to see what he does naturally and what he most enjoys.

“Sports like canine freestyle have all kinds of excellent core-conditioning moves built into them, but so do the everyday activities of all dogs,” she says. “Whenever you see your dog doing something that will strengthen his core, reward him and encourage him to do it more often. And put together a simple warm-up routine that you can use before your agility run or other event.”

The results, says Dr. Helfer, are well worth the effort. “Not only will daily core conditioning strengthen your dog’s muscles and reduce the risk of injury, it will also strengthen the bond that connects you and you’ll both have fun.”

Watch Your Dog’s Weight

Dr. Helfer estimates that 80 percent of her canine patients are overweight. “I really believe that most people don’t know what a fit dog looks like,” she says. “If you can’t feel her ribs and if she doesn’t have a well-defined waist, she’s like most American dogs: overweight and under-exercised.”

To remedy that situation, cut back on calories and start taking your dog for longer walks, especially up and down hills and on different surfaces, such as grass, bare earth, rocks, sand, etc. If you can combine long walks with short uphill runs and occasional swims, you’ll provide the cross-training that gives your dog a head start on core conditioning.

CORE CONDITIONING FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Consult your veterinarian before starting your dog on a new exercise program.

2. Start slowly and cautiously, especially if your dog is not used to exercise, is elderly or overweight, or is recovering from illness or accident.

3. Use positive reinforcement to motivate your dog to learn and perform simple fun tricks that strengthen core muscles.

4. Use these tricks as warm-up and cool-down exercises during practice or competition.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to Whole Dog Journal, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats.

Top Quality Dog Treats

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Treats are, by definition, more delicious, more special, and less plentiful than ordinary food. Treats for humans are usually sweet, but dogs are less particular about dessert; treats that are sweet, meaty, fatty, or any combination of those three will delight and fascinate most canines.

Dogs are individuals, though, and if you have a discriminating dog, you may have to work to find treats that will reliably attract his interest – give him a reason to be a good dog, so to speak. Treats that echo the food he eats every day will not do!

But while a treat should be something special for the dog, it shouldn’t undermine his health, or counter the positive effects of a healthy diet. Artificial preservatives and colors can cause cancer. Too many sweets can contribute to the development of diabetes; fatty treats can trigger an attack of pancreatitis. And an excess of treats can pose serious problems. It can spoil the dog’s appetite for healthier, nutritionally complete and balanced foods. If the treats contain ingredients to which the dog is allergic or intolerant, an excessive allotment can trigger a dramatic reaction. And, of course, a chronic excess of treats can cause obesity, which contributes to many other disease processes.

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Regarding treats, then, the goals of the responsible dog owner are threefold:

-Make sure the treats you buy do not contain ingredients that are less than healthful.

-Look for a variety of treats that the dog enjoys.

-Feed treats to the dog in moderation, as a complement to his regular healthy diet.

Whole Dog Journal’s treat selection criteria
Faced with an endless array of treats with cute, appealing packages and clever names, how do we choose which products to bring home to our dogs? First, we seek out products with healthy, beneficial ingredients. We look for:

Whole-food ingredients. This means whole, named meats, organs, or meat meals – for example (and in order of our preference), chicken, chicken liver, or chicken meal. If the treat contains grain, we’d rather see whole grains than grain “fractions” (whole wheat, rather than wheat flour, wheat bran, or wheat starch). The same goes for fruits or vegetables; apples, blueberries, carrots, sweet potatoes, and the like are delicious, healthy additions to treats.

Organic ingredients. A product that contains only organic ingredients flies to the top of our list, but one organic ingredient is better than none. The more organic ingredients, the better.

Natural preservatives – or fresh products without preservatives. Vitamins C and E (the latter is often listed as “mixed tocopherols”) are effective and safe preservatives. Many treats contain no preservatives at all; that’s fine, but the date of manufacture and/or expiration date should be easy to find and interpret.

Natural, food-based sweeteners. We disapprove of the use of sweeteners in dog food, but we’re talking about treats – something the dog may not get every day, and something he’ll get only a few of. Applesauce, molasses, and honey are better than artificial sweeteners.

Next, read the ingredients list with an eye toward what you DON’T want to see in your dog’s diet, such as:

Low-quality proteins and fats; poor-quality animal-based ingredients. Meat by-products are even less excusable in a treat than they are in a food. Generic or unnamed sources (such as “animal fat” or “animal protein”) are even worse. Yuck!

Artificial colors. Dogs don’t care whether their food is blue or brown. Artificial colors fall into the “absolutely unnecessary chemicals” category.

Artificial or low-quality palatability enhancers. Treats are sort of like candy; they should taste better than the dog’s regular food, but they shouldn’t contain anything bad for the dog. We suggest avoiding treats that use salt as a flavor enhancer, as well as treats that contain sweeteners such as corn syrup, sucrose, and ammoniated glycyrrhizin (in favor of molasses, say, or honey), and artificial flavoring (such as barbecue flavor or artificial smoke flavor). Dogs like the taste of so many healthy and natural foods; there really is no good reason to use artificial flavor enhancers.

Artificial preservatives, such as BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin.

Chewy treats invite the most chemicals, especially because most contain some sort of meat, which needs to be preserved. Some chemicals preserve the meat and help it maintain its nice red or pink color (keep it from turning grey), such as sodium nitrite, commonly found in preserved meats (and implicated in pancreatic cancer in humans).

Final notes
We hinted earlier that you have to read the label of any item that crosses your dog’s lips. Don’t be scared; it’s not that difficult! Compare the labels of the treats below; it’s really obvious which products are healthy and which aren’t.

Keep track of the ingredients that are in your dog’s food and treats. If your dog has symptoms of food allergy – such as severe itching (leading to frequent hotspots), goopy eyes, frequently infected ears – or certain ingredients give him painful gas or diarrhea, you’ll naturally want to avoid treats that contain these ingredients, even in small amounts.

Do check the packaging of any treat for any indication of its country of origin. It’s worth a call to a treat’s manufacturer to ask about the country of origin of all of the ingredients in their products.

To fully understand what it means (or may not mean, as the case may be) when a food or treat label indicates that “human grade” ingredients are used.

Finally, be aware that we do not rate or rank-order the treats we have highlighted as examples of good products on the following pages. A treat either meets our selection criteria (outlined above) or it does not; there is no “top pick” or “best on the list.” Don’t fret if your top pick is not on our list; if it meets our selection criteria, it’s as good as anything we’ve highlighted on the following pages. Happily, there are many more good products than we could ever list.

Increase Your Dog’s Reliability

The German Shepherd’s owner wailed, “But he does it at home!” in my training class last night as her dog sat in front of her, apparently ignoring her cue to lie down. Dog trainers across the country frequently hear this complaint from their human clients during the first few weeks of a new training class. “Of course he does,” we reassure them consolingly, and launch a discussion about how to achieve reliability – getting your dog to do what you ask of him anywhere, anytime, under any conditions.

Behavior professionals often define “reliable” as responding appropriately to the cue at least 80 percent of the time. That means your dog sits at least 8 out of 10 times when you ask him to. It’s unreasonable to expect 100 percent reliability from your dog. After all, we humans are the ones with the bigger brains, and we aren’t perfectly reliable 100 percent of the time – so why should our dogs be? It’s quite possible that your dog sits reliably at home, in the environment where you spend the most time training. Sitting on cue at the training center, at the farmer’s market, at your daughter’s soccer game, when the grass is wet, or in an infinite number of other possible environments, may be an entirely different matter.

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It takes commitment to your training program to achieve reliability under a wide variety of conditions. Let’s explore some of the elements that make for true reliability.

Generalization
This is the concept that trips up so many beginning dog owners/trainers. You work hard at home all week training your dog to perfection, but when you return to class you’re dismayed and disappointed when you try to show off your dog’s accomplishments and he won’t perform. It’s enough to make you give up on training. DON’T!

Maybe you missed the part where your trainer told you that as soon as your dog can do a behavior in the privacy of your own home you need to take the show on the road and practice in lots of other places. If you only practice “sit” in the kitchen in front of the refrigerator, then your dog thinks “Sit!” means “Sit in the kitchen in front of the refrigerator.” When you ask him to sit at the training center and he doesn’t respond you’re thinking, “Stupid dog, he knows what ‘sit’ means,” and he’s thinking, “But I can’t sit here, there’s no refrigerator!”

As soon as your dog will sit for you in one room of your house, practice in all the other rooms. Take him out in the backyard and practice there. Then in the front yard, on your walks around the block and at the dog park. Practice at the vet hospital, at the groomer’s, at your favorite pet supply store, and when you take him to visit friends and family. Practice everywhere!

You also need to practice when you are in different positions. If you usually train standing up, try asking him to sit while you’re sitting on the sofa (television commercials are a perfect training opportunity). Try it when you’re lying on the floor. Turn away from him and ask him to sit. You could even try it while you’re practicing various yoga positions!

It may seem like a lot of work at first, but the good news is that generalization, well, generalizes! The more new behaviors you make the effort to generalize, the easier it becomes for each new behavior along your training journey. Once you’ve generalized “sit” it will be a little easier for “down,” “wait,” “leave it,” “come,” and all the other good manners behaviors you’re trying to teach your dog.

“Proofing” for distractions
Proofing is really just solid training. It simply means teaching your dog to respond to your cues when there are other interesting, exciting, fun, sometimes scary, things happening around him – things we call “distractions.” The secret to proofing is convincing your dog that you are consistently more interesting, more fun, more exciting, and more reinforcing than the distractions. When I used to teach in Santa Cruz, California, I told my students they had to be more interesting than a dead seal. Here in Maryland it’s dead squirrels rather than dead seals, but the concept is the same: If you are wonderful and the training game is wonderful, your dog has no reason to ignore you in favor of dead smelly things – he’s already having as much fun as he could possibly imagine.

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Patty Ruzzo, longtime renowned positive trainer who, sadly, passed away last summer, encouraged people to be “variable and unpredictable” as a way to be irresistibly interesting to their dogs. If your dog never knows what fun stuff you’re going to offer at any moment, he stays glued to you in eager anticipation. The tug toy or plush squeaky you could pull out of your pocket without notice is just as compelling as the squirrel who might run across his path.

To accomplish proofing, you’ll need to start in any new environment with a high rate of reinforcement (lots of rewards), and a wide variety of high value reinforcers (lots of different kinds of “good stuff”). Start your training routine with behaviors that are easy for your dog so he can succeed. When a distraction presents itself, reinforce promptly before he has a chance to lose his focus on you. When no distractions loom, randomly surprise your dog with an exciting reinforcer, as he’s come to anticipate. After a short heeling pattern, turn and run the other way (chase = reinforcer), or whip out a hidden rope toy for a quick game of tug. When you release him from a stay, scatter a handful of treats on the ground for a “find it” orgy, or toss a ball in the air for him to catch – have fun with your dog!

At first, keep training sessions short so you can end with success. Having fun can be very tiring; you want to end the session before your energy wanes or your dog’s enthusiasm wavers. As you both build stamina you can increase the length of your sessions and the duration of your dog’s focus.

When your dog has learned to stay very focused on you, you can add even more intense distractions. Owners who show their dogs in obedience and rally competitions want their dogs to be as close to 100 percent reliable as canines can accomplish. They often proof their dogs with distractions such as metal chairs falling over, cats running past, loose dogs, balloons popping, car keys jingling, hot dogs dropping, children running and yelling – anything that might happen at a show to disrupt their dogs’ performances.

Desensitization
Sights and sounds that your dog finds worrisome, disturbing, or downright scary are guaranteed to diminish his reliability. Lucy, our three-year-old Cardigan Corgi, is very sensitive to sounds. When she was a year old I took her through a clicker class at “A Click Above” in Leesburg, Virginia. The class was held in a large warehouse building. While her class was in session there was also an agility class happening at the other end of the training center, with loud crashes, bangs, and cheers and applause as dogs negotiated the equipment and their owners urged them on.

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Lucy’s reliability, quite high at home, deteriorated significantly the first two or three weeks of class until she became desensitized to the sounds. At first, I had to just let her take a break whenever sound erupted from the other end of the room – she would shut down from stress and stop performing completely. Then she began to accept sounds of a fairly low intensity – a muffled bang of the teeter at the opposite end of the building, a person encouraging her dog at low to moderate volume.

I helped the process along with counter-conditioning – not just waiting for Lucy to habituate to the commotion, but actively encouraging a positive association with the sounds by feeding her high-value treats whenever a loud noise occurred. By week five she consistently performed her behaviors with 80 percent or better reliability.

Fading lures and prompts
A cue is the initial signal you give your dog to ask for a behavior. A lure is a food treat that you use to show your dog how to perform the behavior (such as putting a treat at the tip of his nose and moving it toward the floor to get him to lie down). A prompt is a signal, such as a movement of your hand, that you use after your cue to help your dog perform the requested behavior. (A lure is one form of prompt; not all prompts are lures.) To be really reliable, your dog needs to respond to your cue at least 80 percent of the time without additional lures or prompts.

If you ask your dog to lie down using the verbal cue “down,” your training goal is to have him respond without you having to point to the floor, bend over, or move a treat toward the floor. If you are still doing those things to get him to “down” then he’s not yet reliable, and you have more training to do.

It’s best to fade lures and prompts early with each new behavior. The longer you use them, the more you and your dog become dependent on them. This means you’ll always have to have a treat in your hand. Most dog owners don’t want that. As soon as you can easily lure your dog into position, start fading the lure as follows:

• Give the cue “Down.”

• Pause 2 to 4 seconds to let him hear and think about the cue.

• Lure him down.

• Repeat.

• If your dog doesn’t catch on and start lying down for the verbal cue after 3 to 4 repetitions, vary the length of the pause after the cue. Sometimes lure quickly, sometimes wait several seconds.

• With subsequent repetitions, use the lure less and less, until you’re just barely suggesting a motion with your lure. You’re trying to jumpstart his brain – getting him to think for himself instead of waiting for you to help him out.

Some trainers fade the lure by replacing the treat with a “down” signal with an empty hand (a prompt), then treating from the other hand. You can do this – and then you still have to go through the same process to fade the prompt. Of course, if you shape behaviors instead of luring them, you can skip fading altogether – there’s nothing to fade! (See “Fun Training Techniques for You and Your Canine!,” March 2006.)

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Decreasing the rate of reinforcement
When you first teach your dog a new behavior, you use a continuous schedule of reinforcement. Every time your dog sits at your request, he gets a click and treat. When he sits reliably (8 out of 10 times) you are ready to start using a variable, intermittent reinforcement schedule. You will still treat every time you click, but occasionally you’ll just say “good dog!” and skip the click and treat.

Be sure that you truly vary your reinforcement; dogs quickly discern a pattern – “Oh, she clicks only every fourth time!” – and won’t perform as well for the three times in between clicks. Emulate a slot machine; he never knows when to expect the next payoff, so he’ll keep playing, hoping the next “sit” will win the jackpot.

Remember that if you click, you must give your dog a treat. Recent research conducted by Dr. Jesus Rosales-Ruiz at the University of North Texas conclusively demonstrates that the quality of performance deteriorates rapidly if you click without treating. You can, however, gradually stretch your rate of reinforcement thinner and thinner. At first you skip a click only occasionally, but over time you can skip more.

An intermittent schedule of reinforcement makes a behavior very durable – meaning it’s hard to extinguish (make it go away). It teaches your dog that if he keeps working, eventually a payoff will come. This enables you to have your dog perform several behaviors in a row without having to stop and treat each time – an important skill if you really want to impress friends and family with your trick routine – or enter canine competitions.

Stimulus control
Discussed at length in the October issue, stimulus control is the icing on the reliability cake. Incorporating the concepts above will help you attain this worthy goal. When your dog is truly under stimulus control he will:

• Always perform the behavior when you ask him to (sit when you say sit).

• Never perform the behavior in a training session if you haven’t asked him (never sit if you haven’t asked him to sit).

• Never perform the behavior when you ask him to perform a different behavior (never sit when you ask him to down).

• Never perform a different behavior when you ask him for the behavior (never down when you ask him to sit).

If you’re not quite there yet, start working on generalization, proofing, desensitization, fading lures and prompts, and decreasing your rate of reinforcement. You and your dog have work to do!

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, with her husband Paul. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Thanks to trainer Sarah Richardson, of Chico, California, for demonstrating the techniques in this article.

 

Canine Energy Healing Techniques

Energy medicine, once so exotic that it was dismissed out of hand by America’s physicians and veterinarians, is now going mainstream. In addition to the therapies described last month (see “Alternative Views on Holistic Dog Care,” Whole Dog Journal October 2007), energy healing techniques such as flower essences, animal communication, and kinesiology are used by holistic veterinarians in the U.S. and around the world. Understanding what these therapies are and how they work will help you decide which energy therapies might be appropriate for your canine companion.

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Flower essences
There’s nothing unusual about a dog responding to an herbal tea or capsule. Plants have been used for thousands of years to treat all kinds of conditions.

But flower essences, which are also called flower remedies, are very different from herbal products. Like homeopathic remedies, they contain little or none of the material used to produce them. Instead, they store a plant’s “vibration” or “imprint,” which in turn affects the animal’s energy. These vibrations or imprints are said to act directly on the animal’s emotions.

Conventional veterinary medicine finds no credible explanation for either homeopathy or flower essences, but physicists and other energy researchers say that on the atomic level, tiny amounts of matter contain subtle but powerful forces. For those interested in energy research, medical journalist Lynne McTaggart’s book, The Field: The Quest for the Secret Force of the Universe, reviews hundreds of scientific and medical reports that explore this subject.

Flower essences were developed by Edward Bach, an English physician and homeopath, in the early years of the 20th century. Dr. Bach filled small glass bowls with pure spring water, placed freshly picked blossoms on the water’s surface, and left the bowls in direct sunlight for three hours. During this time, he theorized, the water became impregnated with the plants’ healing powers.

He then discarded the blossoms and preserved the activated water in brandy. As in homeopathy, this basic formula was called the “mother tincture.” When diluted with additional brandy, the result was called the “stock” remedy.

By far the most famous flower remedy blend is Dr. Bach’s formula for emergency and stress, which is sold under the brand names (depending on the manufacturer) Rescue Remedy, Calming Essence, Five Flower Formula, and Trauma Remedy in health food stores, pharmacies, pet supply stores, and online. It contains star of Bethlehem for shock, rock rose for fear and panic, impatiens for tension and mental agitation, cherry plum for lack of emotional control, and clematis for the sensation one experiences just before fainting.

According to Helen Graham and Gregory Vlamis in their book Bach Flower Remedies for Animals, Rescue Remedy and similar emergency remedies can be used:

• As an adjunct to any treatment for illness, surgery, injury, trauma, or shock

• As a safe alternative to tranquilizers and sedatives

• To help revive weak newborn puppies

• To combat the aftereffects of anesthesia and to revive puppies delivered by caesarean section

• To help resuscitate dogs whose breathing has stopped or help dogs who are having trouble breathing

• After any seizure or convulsion

• To speed recovery from heatstroke or exhaustion

• To speed the healing of wounds

• To help dogs relax at the groomer’s salon, veterinary clinic, obedience school, dog park, or any stressful surroundings

• To support dogs living in shelters

• To improve mental focus and learning

Like all flower essences, Rescue Remedy can be applied directly from the stock bottle, a drop or two at a time. The remedy can be dropped into the dog’s mouth, massaged into the gums, applied to the nose or paw pads, or applied to bare skin on the abdomen or ears.

Canine massage therapists often incorporate flower essences in their hands-on work, as do practitioners of canine acupressure. Applying flower essences to a chakra or an acupressure point and then pressing, holding, massaging, or tapping the point can increase the treatment’s effectiveness – especially if the flower essence addresses an emotional issue affecting the dog.

Flower essences at work
Every blossom used in flower essences has a unique significance. The bewildering assortment of remedies and their unusual application methods make the study of flower essences confusing at first. But there are many resources and guides to help the novice.

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“The most reassuring thing about these products,” says flower essence practitioner and manufacturer Christina Blume of Denver, Colorado, “is that they are totally safe. You cannot overdose on flower essences. If you use an inappropriate remedy, nothing happens. There are no adverse side effects.”

And if you use the right remedies, the results can be amazing.

One of Blume’s neighbors, who is not a dog person, got a guard dog for protection. She called Blume in a panic when the dog tangled with a porcupine and his face was covered with quills. “As soon as I saw him,” says Blume, “I ran home and mixed trauma and fear remedies with water in a spray bottle.”

Blume stood on one side of the gate while the dog, who didn’t know her, slavered, growled, and barked. “I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed him,” she says. “Within about two minutes, he let me come through the gate, load him into the car, and take him to the vet. He even stayed calm at the vet clinic.”

Many dog lovers discover flower essences during the summer. “Fourth of July fireworks and summer thunderstorms send people scrambling for anything that might help their frightened dogs,” she says. “Fear is also the underlying cause of separation anxiety. I have received more e-mail messages, letters, and phone calls about dogs who have overcome their fears with the help of flower essences than any other topic.”

Consider Kaniq, an American Eskimo Dog living with Carol Allen in Denver. “I am blessed to be able to take him to work every day. My co-workers all adore him, and as a result he is very spoiled,” says Allen. “But all this attention during the week leaves him with a major case of separation anxiety when my husband and I leave him home alone when we run errands or go out for dinner on the weekend.”

For the first 18 months of Kaniq’s life, the Allens came home to chewed clothes, papers, books, and shreds of whatever else their dog could reach. “He would even pull things down off the wall and destroy them,” she says. “It didn’t matter if we were gone for 15 minutes or two hours, he got into everything and drove our family crazy. And, of course, he was just as miserable as we were.”

After several unsuccessful attempts to solve the problem, the Allens met Christina Blume, and tried one of her flower essence products that she calls “Loneliness Blend.”

“To be perfectly honest,” says Allen, “my husband and I were quite skeptical that anything like a flower remedy would work any better than the hundreds of hours we had put into training. But it came free with a class we attended, so we tried it.”

At the end of day one on the Loneliness blend, Kaniq had not destroyed anything. “Holy cow,” says Allen. “That was exciting! Then we thought it had to be a coincidence. We just didn’t leave anything where Kaniq could reach it. Right?”

On day two, they tested him. “We gave him his dose and left him for half an hour with a cardboard box. We expected to find the box torn up. Nope. Totally wrong. We returned to find a happy dog greeting us at the door, pleased to have us home.”

Now when they leave to go out to dinner or attend other events in the evenings or on weekends, they get Kaniq’s blend out. “He sees it and comes running,” says Allen. “As long as we give it to him, we return to a happy dog and a happy house. I would definitely recommend flower remedies to anyone whose dog suffers from fear, anxiety, or any other harmful emotions.”

Loneliness remedy has worked well for many re-homed dogs, including Beagles placed by a local Beagle rescue group. “Like Kaniq,” says Blume, “these dogs would panic and wreck the house. Some tore sofas apart. But they responded really well to the Loneliness remedy. Its key ingredient is prickly pear cactus, which blooms here in Colorado. Its vibration seems to work especially well for all of the issues that can result from being alone.”

In addition to making and distributing individual essences and her Loneliness and Trauma remedies, Blume creates blends such as Confidence, for overly sensitive dogs or to help dogs feel courageous; Focus and Concentration, for distracted dogs; Competition, for increased courage and strength; Transportation Ease, for traveling dogs; and Antzy Pantz, for hyperactive dogs or dogs with a lot of nervous energy. Instead of alcohol, she uses a vegetable glycerine base, which has a sweet taste that dogs enjoy.

“For all flower essence applications,” says Blume, “I recommend putting 12 drops in a 4-ounce atomizer bottle filled with distilled water. You can spray the essence in the air and on the dog’s bedding, and brush or rub it into the dog’s coat. I also apply the essence to the dog’s chakra points and massage it between her eyes and on her gums, put it on her paw pads, on the inside of her ears, and on her nose. While the dog is licking the essence off her nose and toes, I apply it to her abdomen and give her a tummy rub. I also put the essences on treats and dog biscuits and add it to her broth or food.”

The key to success with flower essences, she says, is frequency of application.

“When I’m serious about getting good results,” she says, “I’ll apply diluted or full-strength remedies as often as possible. I suggest to clients that they apply the essences first thing in the morning, just before they leave for work, as soon as they get home, and again just before bed. But if you can apply them more often, such as every hour, that works even better.”

Blume adds four drops of a flower essence to dogs’ water bowls, including communal bowls. “The wonderful thing about flower essences,” she says, “is that if a dog drinks a remedy that he doesn’t need, it doesn’t hurt him. I don’t worry, in multiple-pet households, about separating animals and remedies. The animal who needs the remedy will respond and the others are never harmed.”

To help newcomers use flower essences, organizations like the Flower Essence Society in the U.S. and the Bach Centre in England provide books, training guides, online resources, workshops, and other assistance. A growing number of flower essence practitioners specialize in animal care, and the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association directory lists 300 veterinarians who treat animals with flower essences.

In recent years, remedies made from materials other than plants have become popular. For example, “gem elixirs” are infused with the energy of semiprecious and precious stones. Essences are also made from water, ice, or sunlight collected at sacred sites. These experimental remedies have not yet been systematically tested by thousands of practitioners the way most flower remedies have, but in time they may be shown to affect the emotions in much the way flower essences do.

Animal communication
Can you talk to animals? Of course you can – but do they understand you? And if they answer, do you understand them?

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Many have observed that humans are reasonably good senders of information, and dogs are good receivers. But while dogs are also good senders, we humans are all too often poor receivers, obtaining static, blurred images, tangled hunches, or nothing at all. That’s why so many of us look askance at people who claim to know what animals are thinking – and why we’re amazed when their reports from animals are specific, detailed, and on target.

Jessica Westleigh works with animals in person and from a distance using a variety of energy healing modalities. Her background involves dogs, horses, and other animals. She worked as an Animal Veterinary Technician at Tufts University in Massachusetts, as a registered instructor for the North American Riding for the Handicapped Association, and as a professional dressage instructor and trainer. A breeder of champion Australian Shepherds, she now lives near a rain forest in Puerto Rico.

In her energy treatments, Westleigh works with an animal’s aura (the subtle multicolored luminous radiation or electromagentic field that surrounds all living creatures) and chakras (the seven energy centers discovered in ancient India and used in many healing techniques) using methods such as channeling, streaming, Reiki, and consulting a pendulum to receive information, unlock chakras, and re-energize the animal’s system.

“What’s given me a great insight into the different healing modalities,” she says, “is that by communicating with the animal while I’m doing everything else, I can use or recommend the herbs, flower essences, and long-distance energy or Reiki healing that will work best for the patient. I work with animals to get their exact symptoms so that I know how to treat them.”

Westleigh speaks with her animal clients and interprets their images, thoughts, and emotions for general information. She then performs what’s called a body scan. “That’s where I pick up on physical issues,” she says. “When I receive this information, I might feel a temperature change or a sensation of numbness or tingling or even physical pain. In many cases I get words from the animal, and some dogs give me specific and detailed descriptions of what’s going on in their lives. All of this helps me determine what form of energy healing will be most beneficial.”

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Westleigh relies on the phone and e-mail to schedule appointments, but she does all of her animal work in a meditative state in the rain forest or on the beach. “I receive everything directly at that time,” she says. “The patient can be hundreds or thousands of miles away and engaged in normal everyday activities. The animal doesn’t have to be in any particular place or doing anything special.”

She usually works with new canine clients in daily 90-minute sessions for one week, at the end of which she and the owner or caregiver assess the dog’s progress.

Puka is a five-year-old Corgi mix from the island of Kauai in Hawaii who now lives in Boring, Oregon, with Kathleen Kane. Raised in a feral pack that was used for boar hunting, Puka was five months old when she was taken to a shelter. That’s where she met Kane, who was in Hawaii on vacation.

“Puka has had both physical and emotional problems,” says Westleigh, “everything from urinary incontinence issues to severe separation anxiety, and she has a hitch in one of her hind legs, where she skips a beat every few strides.

“I started by doing long-distance Reiki and EFT (Emotional Freedom Technique, another form of energy medicine), and by the end of that first week, Kathleen reported significant changes in Puka’s character and personality. She suddenly became much more outgoing and confident. Kathleen could leave her and she didn’t experience her usual panic and separation anxiety. But what surprised her most was Puka’s physical improvement. A lot of the heat that had been in her back was gone, she stopped urinating in her sleep, and she just became a happier dog.”

Another long-distance client is Nitro, a 14-year-old German Shepherd Dog belonging to Roseanne Carbone in St. Paul, Minnesota. Nitro has degenerative myelopathy, or DM, a neurologic disease that affects the spinal cord and eventually results in paralysis.

“I’ve been working with Nitro for a year and a half,” says Westleigh, “and Roseanne credits the combination of energy work he’s been receiving and the care of Dr. Deb Brown, his holistic veterinarian in Pequot Lakes, Minnesota, for keeping him alive. I work with him every other Friday. Roseanne says that when she leaves for work, he’ll be uninterested in breakfast and dragging his hind end, but when she comes home after our session, he’s standing at the front door, tail wagging, with a toy in his mouth, and his appetite is back.”

Dr. Brown treats Nitro with acupuncture and herbs. “I get information, sensations, and symptoms directly from Nitro,” says Westleigh, “and at Nitro’s next veterinary appointment, which is usually a day or two later, Roseanne passes this information on to Dr. Brown, who incorporates it into her treatments. I open up his chakras and his meridians to help get his body ready for the work that she’s going to do.”

Westleigh often works with or is referred by holistic veterinarians and other healthcare providers who make up a team that exchanges information. “Usually it’s the owner who coordinates this,” she says. “There might be a kinesiologist in the picture who is able to verify my observations with muscle testing. Then a veterinary homeopath or other practitioner prescribes specific treatments. Energy work, flower essences, homeopathy, chiropractic adjustments, acupuncture, acupressure, massage therapy, nutrition, and other holistic therapies all work very well together.”

Can anyone learn how to communicate with animals, or do you have to be born with the skill?

Many animal communicators, such as Penelope Smith in Prescott, Arizona, say we can all learn how to exchange ideas with our animal companions. Smith, who has written several best-selling books about animal communication, edits a quarterly journal, Species Link, and provides training programs and DVDs.

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In fact, many adult schools and training centers offer classes and workshops. If you’d rather work with an expert, your holistic veterinarian, groomer, trainer, or dog club may be able to refer you to an animal communicator. Check local metaphysical magazines and newsletters as well.

Do you know what your dog really thinks? “You probably don’t,” says Jessica Westleigh, “but I can promise you this. Your dog has important things to tell you, and she probably wishes you could read her mind!”

Kinesiology
Now that you know your dog can talk to you, did you know that your body can talk to you, too? Not only that, but your body knows things that your conscious mind knows nothing about.

That’s what George Goodheart, DC, discovered in the early 1960s, when he found that muscles could be tested in ways that revealed information about the rest of the body. Dr. Goodheart called his discovery Applied Kinesiology.

When the person performing the test asks questions and checks the strength or weakness of indicator muscles, the individual being tested unconsciously communicates internal information.

Healthcare practitioners use muscle testing to determine what specific imbalances or chemical sensitivities exist in the body; the health status of different organs, acupuncture points, and meridians; and the best specific treatments for enhancing health.

To test whether an indicator muscle is strong or weak, the tester usually presses down on the hand or arm of the person being tested, while that person resists by holding the arm straight. The body’s muscles are strengthened by statements with which it agrees and weakened by statements with which it does not agree. You can be convinced that dark chocolate is your personal health food, but if holding, looking at, or thinking about a chocolate bar leaves you weak all over, a tester’s light pressure will send your arm to the floor.

Factors that can impede accurate muscle testing include dehydration, unwanted distractions, loud noises, and electromagnetic interference. In ideal conditions, all parties have had plenty of water, the room is quiet, and there are no environmental problems.

For those too young, incapacitated, or infirm to test, or for testing animals, surrogate testing works just as well. In surrogate testing, an intermediary person touches the person or animal being tested with one hand and resists the tester’s gentle pressure with the other. Today in many veterinary clinics, staff members are experienced surrogate testers.

Wendy Volhard, co-author of the best-selling Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, has introduced kinesiology to thousands. In the early 1980s, when she planned to add muscle testing to the nutrition and health curriculum at her training camps, Volhard’s staff warned her not to even mention the subject. “It’s quackery!” they exclaimed.

“But I had so much success with it that I felt driven to teach it,” she says. “If you can accept Einstein’s theory that all matter has energy, sooner or later you will believe in kinesiology, too.”

Volhard devotes a chapter of her book to kinesiology and gives detailed instructions. To test your dog, she explains, have her lying on your left while you sit on the floor next to her. Remove the dog’s collar if it contains metal. If it isn’t already in a closed container, place whatever you plan to test (a small amount of dog food, a treat, a flower essence, medication, etc.) in a plastic bag or glass jar. Hold it in contact with the dog’s body anywhere except the head area.

Extend your right arm parallel to the ground. Have your tester push down on your wrist. “You will immediately know the result,” she says. “A strong response means the item being tested is okay for your dog. A weak response means it is not the best choice. If you get a weak response, test several items, such as several different foods or treats, until you find one that tests strong. All individuals have their own body chemistry, so results are bound to vary.”

Another way to do surrogate testing is to test yourself without needing another person’s help. Kinesiologists have discovered many methods for obtaining clear “yes” or “no” answers (see a list of online descriptions in the resources, below). Christina Blume uses a pendulum to determine which remedies a particular dog’s needs by going down her printed list of flower essences, pointing to each one, and noting the answers.

“Whatever method you use,” she says, “whether it’s holding a pendulum and waiting for it to move clockwise or counterclockwise, or forward and back or sideways, or whether you use one of the many finger, hand, or body muscle self-tests, the keys are practice and experience. It took only a few days to discover my personal ‘yes’ and ‘no’ indicators, but it took three months for me to trust the results. The energetics of intention are powerful. Trust that your desire to aid your beloved dog is coming through in your search for answers.”

Thanks to trainer Sarah Richardson, of Chico, California, for demonstrating the techniques in this article.

How to Maintain Your Dog’s Health

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Consider the plight of canine Brandy, a seven-year-old mixed breed, adopted by a suburban family with three kids. In the five years they have shared their home with Brandy, his status in the family has gone from that of a rock star to a pet rock to a neglected pet. Today, he’s got some problems – health-related issues and dog behavioral trouble – and the head of the family is seriously considering “getting rid” of him.

Although this concept induces wails of protest from the kids, honestly, who would will miss the silent onslaught of Brandy’s deadly farts, or cleaning up the sloppy, gloppy piles of poop he leaves in the backyard three or four times a day? Who wouldn’t appreciate being able to leave shoes and socks and cell phones on the floor, without a dog who would chew and swallow them the moment your back was turned? And wouldn’t it be nice to be able to bring friends over to the house without having to lock Brandy in the garage, to keep him from barking and nipping at the visitors? He pulls hard on leash and is sometimes aggressive to other dogs, so he rarely gets taken for the walks that might calm him down.

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But wait; Mom loves the dog, farts and all, and doesn’t think it’s fair to send him back to the shelter just because no one is enjoying him much anymore. She thinks Brandy needs some time and attention, and can be made to resemble the better-behaved, better-loved young dog they adopted years ago. She’s ready to call the vet for an appointment for a consultation – or should she hire a professional dog trainer?

Multi-pronged approach
The answer is yes! She should probably make an appointment with both experts, and here is why:

Training approaches that fail to address Brandy’s health problems – his poor digestion, hyperactivity, and pica eating (consumption of nonfood items) – may improve some of his behavior for a short time. But his poor health will make it difficult for him to absorb and retain the lessons.

Improvements in Brandy’s health will make him more pleasant to live with; with an improved diet and some targeted supplements, he will surely stop producing so much gas, and his feces will become smaller, harder, and less frequent. His pica eating should also decrease. If he feels better, he may become less aggressive to other dogs while being walked. However, remedial training will probably be necessary to improve his behavior enough to enable the kids to walk him again, or to have their friends safely interact with him.

Every aspect of a dog’s life affects every other aspect, which can make it difficult to decide where you should start with a dog like Brandy. No single effort you make, no matter how huge, will miraculously turn everything around. A homemade diet might vastly improve his health, but he may still be a pain to live with. Twice-weekly private lessons with a positive trainer might solve almost all of the complaints about Brandy’s behavior, but won’t make him (or the backyard) smell any better!

The good news, though, is that a multi-pronged, holistic approach, comprised of incremental, intelligent improvements in his life, just may save the dog.

Where do you start?
Most holistic veterinarians say the most important part of a health-promotion plan is improved diet; most trainers will say it’s increased exercise. We propose that these two keystones of health are equally important; both need to be implemented ASAP.

Unless your dog is in peak health, and eating a home-prepared diet of fresh foods, you can improve his diet. If you already feed a high-quality product, but your dog still has persistent digestive problems or any signs of food allergy, you should try a change of food.

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Look for a different variety of food from the same maker, or a product from a different line, or, best yet, an entirely different product from a different maker. If you feed kibble, consider a dehydrated food, like the products from The Honest Kitchen, or a frozen raw diet. Make notes on your calendar or in a notebook indicating when you switch foods, and what type and variety of food you use.

If you are feeding a low-quality food, you should buy a higher-quality product. Foods that contain greater amounts of high-quality proteins and fats provide more of the nutrients beneficial to dogs, including a more complete panel of amino acids and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.

An improved diet can make a world of difference to the attitude and responsiveness of a dog who suffers from a chronically upset stomach.

Very few dogs receive adequate opportunities to exercise as much as their wild ancestors did – or even as much as their more recent ancestors did just a few decades ago. Exercise releases endorphins, making the dog feel better. It strengthens bones and soft tissues, and burns calories. It improves the circulation of the lymph system, helping the body move waste products out of the tissues. Exercise also helps dogs feel tired! This is a tremendous boon to dogs who are chronically anxious, hyperactive, or aggressive.

It can be a real challenge to provide adequate exercise opportunities to a dog with aggression issues, or to one who is so overstimulated by the outside world that he’s difficult to walk. But exercise is absolutely critical for improving these dogs’ mental health and behavior!

Wrack your brain and use your imagination to think of activities and safe locations to use to thoroughly work these dogs. Search for remote ponds or lakes where you can swim your dog. Ask your friends and relatives if they know of any safely fenced, open areas where you can take your dog for intense off-leash exercise. (I used to take a friend’s dog-aggressive Lab to a lighted tennis court at night, when it was rarely in use, to run after tennis balls and play “chase me!” Look for experienced dog walkers or doggie daycare facilities that will take on difficult dogs.

Of course, exercise must be tailored to your dog’s age, level of fitness, interests, and physical limitations. But even senior dogs with arthritis and dogs with severe physical limitations can benefit from activities adapted to their abilities. For example, many dogs with paralyzed rear ends have shown tremendous improvement after just a few sessions of therapeutic swimming and guided stretching in a warm water therapy pool.

Reduce toxic burden
If you made a list of every toxic chemical your dog was directly exposed to on a weekly or monthly basis, you’d probably be shocked. The list would probably include hundreds of pesticides, herbicides, cleaning agents, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from building materials and furnishings . . . and that’s not counting the pesticides we apply directly to their skin!

“All of these substances are strangers to the body and need to be processed by the liver and other organs,” says Jenny Taylor, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Oakland, California. “Even products that are supposed to stay on the surface of the body can be absorbed through the skin and enter the bloodstream. Avoid these medications when possible, or ask your vet or holistic practitioner for alternatives.”

Yes, we’re exposed to many toxins, too, but we don’t generally lick our skin and feet – and we surely don’t spend as much time as our dogs breathing the highly polluted air near the floors of our homes. (Many common solvents have a higher molecular weight than air, so they settle toward the floor.) And due to their body mass and their rate of respiration, dogs, like infants, are also more susceptible than we are to toxic chemicals in the air.

Try to reduce the number of toxins your dog is exposed to. Use natural agents to clean your home, furnishings, and bedding. Keep windows open as much as possible to reduce indoor air pollution. Keep your yards organic, and rinse your dog’s paws after strolls on public lawns, which are often liberally coated with garden chemicals.

Stress reduction
Many of us make jokes about how hard we have to work to support our dogs, while they laze around on our couches. But most of us fail to consider how stressful our dogs’ lives are from their perspectives.

For example, having an opportunity to sleep for many hours a day, enjoying peace and quiet alone in the house sounds like heaven to most people, but it can be near-torturous for many dogs. Canines are pack animals, hard-wired to live in complex social groups. They are also wired for mentally stimulating environments, where they would have to solve problems, exercise, and use their wits to locate, hunt, and gather food on a daily basis. While some dogs are perfectly happy sleeping for 18 hours a day in a house five or six days a week, it’s like solitary confinement in a hostile prison to highly active and/or social dogs. It’s no wonder so many dogs soil their homes, destroy the furnishings, or bark all day.

Far fewer dogs suffer from over-stimulation and overactivity than boredom, but it can happen. A dog who has to be compelled to get into the car may be burned out from your social schedule.

Do some thinking about what sort of dog your companion is, and whether the lifestyle you have imposed on him really suits his temperament. You’ll have to look for clues (and be open to their obvious interpretation, even if it’s an inconvenience). For example, if he’s moderately pleased to see you when you get home, and your house is intact, he’s probably doing fine. But if goes berserk while you’re not home, or goes into a hyperactive overdrive when you get home, and this doesn’t resolve within 10 or 15 minutes, he would benefit from more opportunities to get out and de-stress.

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Appropriate medical attention
Medical surveillance, treatment, prevention, and oversight are important parts of a holistic healthcare program – but only if the medical professional heading the dog’s healthcare “team” orders only those procedures and medications that do the most good with the least side effects.

In our opinion, it does more harm than good to employ the services of a veterinarian who enthusiastically promotes every available vaccine, strongly recommends year-round flea and heartworm preventatives (no matter what the climate), and practically requires that their patients be fed commercial “prescription” diets.

Instead, we look for veterinarians who promote wellness exams and preventive healthcare practices (like fresh, species-appropriate diets and regular exercise). We seek out vets who are knowledgeable about and use gentle, natural remedies that stimulate the dog’s body to heal itself as first-line treatments, before reaching for strong-arm antibiotics and steroids. And we appreciate practitioners who approach the task of healing with spiritual awareness, reverence for all life, and a deep compassion for animals.

Generally, practitioners who fall under this latter category describe themselves as “holistic” or “integrative” veterinarians. Frequently, they have acquired extensive training in alternative or complementary medical modalities such as acupuncture, chiropractic, homeopathy, or herbal medicine, and offer these treatments in addition to (or as a replacement for) Western medicines and procedures. Less commonly, they embrace holistic healthcare, but refer their clients to nonveterinary colleagues who specialize in alternative or complementary therapies.

We’re huge fans of holistic practitioners, particularly because they tend to be the only vets who are knowledgeable about, promote, and support natural diets. But we’re equally wild about veterinarians with strong Western medical skills and access to the latest diagnostic tools and tests. In a dire emergency, we’re taking our dogs to the closest clinic equipped with x-ray and EKG machines, a CAT scanner, and in-house laboratory – not our holistic vet’s office. Ideally, every dog owner would establish a relationship with both types of practitioners – and these professionals would respect and work well with each other to best serve their canine patients.

The big picture
If you don’t regard your dog as perfectly healthy, mentally and physically, consider addressing each of these areas to an extent within your abilities. If your dog is regularly examined by a competent holistic vet, receives a reasonably high-quality diet and daily exercise, has frequent opportunities to socialize and enjoy the outdoors, and has the benefit of interaction with and attention from you, he’ll be sure to remain a “rock star” in your life, rather than a neglected pet. You may not be able to provide the ideal solution in each aspect of your dog’s life. But if you at least make small improvements in every area, we guarantee his health and behavior will improve, too.

Nancy Kerns is the editor of Whole Dog Journal.

Alternative Views on Holistic Dog Care

We asked several veterinarians who use complementary and/or alternative medicine: “What are the most basic precepts of ‘holistic care’ that dog owners should understand and employ? The points that you want them to absorb if they are to become your regular clients? What dog care practices do you consider to be the bedrock of a vibrant wellness program, and why?”

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As one might expect from individuals who have explored highly divergent paths in holistic medicine, their answers were idiosyncratic.

Diet and exercise
Ihor Basko, DVM, has been practicing veterinary medicine since 1971. He was an “early adopter” of holistic treatments, using nutritional therapy, Western and traditional Chinese herbs and medicine, acupuncture, massage therapy, laser therapy, and hydrotherapy in his practice. Dr. Basko is also one of the founders and current President of the Veterinary Botanical Medical Association. His practice is located in Hawaii.

There are two dog care practices that Dr. Basko considers the bedrock of a wellness program – a wholesome diet and regular exercise. “The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has stated that 80 percent of all human life-threatening diseases are due to poor diet and inappropriate exercise,” says Dr. Basko. Dogs, he suggests, are similar.

Dr. Basko’s comments reflect a phenomenon we have observed in many dog owners (not necessarily those who are our readers!): Guardians who are really knowledgeable about their dogs’ diet are the exception, not the rule. When asked whether there is one message he’d like all of his clients to absorb, he says owners should not succumb to laziness or apathy about their dogs’ diets. Owners need to do their homework, he says. “Don’t believe what commercial dog food companies tell you about their products. They have no idea about where the food has originated, nor are they employing any quality control methods to screen for pesticides, heavy metals, and other contaminants in their foods. Begin studying nutrition and how it relates to your particular dog’s breed and condition.” Finally, Dr. Basko echoes another of our strong recommendations: That owners find a good veterinarian. “Find a veterinarian who speaks your ‘language,’” he says. It’s critical that you and your dog’s primary doctor share good, clear communication and shared beliefs to ensure your dog will receive the best care.

Don’t suppress symptoms
Bert H. Brooks, DVM, opened a mixed animal practice in 1980, in Woodland, California. About 10 years ago, Dr. Brooks added the word “holistic” to the name of his practice, currently called Cache Creek Holistic Veterinary Service. Dr. Brooks is also author of the new book More Than A Theory: A New Medical Paradigm. He uses energy from nutritional supplements, herbs, homeopathic medicines, flowers, and frequency generators, and delivers the healing energy remotely by way of the Harmonic Translation System. He also uses muscle response testing.

Dr. Brooks would like dog owners to understand that “holistic care should always address causes of bothersome symptoms and not just suppress symptoms the way conventional allopathic medical practitioners are trained to do.” Even many practitioners who consider themselves to be “holistic” in philosophy still offer only alternative methods of handling symptoms, he says. “I believe the biggest mistake made in medicine today is the use of substances – including natural substances – to eliminate symptoms but which do nothing to address causes. The second biggest mistake is to think the problem is cured because the symptom was suppressed.”

Like many holistic practitioners, Dr. Brooks also considers diet to be an important part of a canine wellness program. However, he’s aware of the difficulties of finding just the right diet for each dog.

“While proper nutrition is undoubtedly the foundation for a healthy life, there exists much debate on the precise definition of ‘proper nutrition.’ Different holistic practitioners have different philosophies concerning this subject, and each opinion is probably valid for a certain portion of the canine population. The reason for this apparent contradiction is that not all dogs need the same nutrition. It is the same problem that commercial dog food companies run into when they try to design ‘the perfect dog food,’ one that contains everything that all dogs need in order to be healthy and lead long lives.

“Each individual dog is unique, and the nutrition for that animal can not be contained in any bag or can which is fit for the consumption of all dogs. Over time, nutritional deficiencies tend to compound before they begin to show up as symptoms. Raw whole foods are philosophically the closest to nature, but some dogs are not tempted by them, and some do not do well on them. The hard part of nutrition is determining what each individual needs.”

Health is dynamic
W. Jean Dodds, DVM, is the founder of Hemopet, the nation’s first nonprofit dog blood bank that also rescues Greyhounds from the racing industry and finds them new homes. Dr. Dodds is renowned for her research on canine vaccines, and on behalf of Hemopet, she consults in clinical pathology nationally and internationally, and regularly travels to teach animal health care professionals, companion animal fanciers, and pet owners on hematology and blood banking, immunology, endocrinology, nutrition, and holistic medicine.

Dr. Dodds considers the concept of “holistic dog care” as wholism, “the original, traditional form of health care that encompasses the whole body and the ambient environment.” In wholism, the sum of the body is more than the sum of its constituent parts, so any treatment that addresses a sole aspect of the dog’s body would be considered incomplete and inadequate. Dr. Dodds cites a number of practices as the foundations of a holistic canine wellness examination. In order for a “holistic veterinarian” to effectively treat a dog, the vet should take a complete family and patient history (medical and environmental), conduct a physical examination, and ask about the dog’s current diet; vaccination and medication history; use of heartworm, flea, and tick preventives; and recent illnesses. The vet should also gain access to any recent laboratory or other diagnostic reports, ordering any needed tests (or repeating tests that weren’t done properly.) Only when all this is taken into account can appropriate treatments be prescribed. Finally, Dr. Dodds says that owners should keep in mind that, “Medicine is an art and a science, and pet health is a dynamic process that changes.” Diet and vaccines Mark Newkirk, VMD, has been in veterinary practice in New Jersey since 1981, offering “complementary medicine,” which he describes as “whatever works best!”

Dr. Newkirk uses herbal therapy, homeopathy, chiropractic, Metabolic Nutritional Balancing, and NAET (an alternative allergy elimination therapy). Dr. Newkirk recently opened a new practice, the Animal Rehabilitation and Sports Medicine Center in Egg Harbor Township, NJ, offering animal chiropractic, physical therapy, an underwater treadmill, therapeutic ultrasound, and neuromuscular electrical stimulation.

When introducing a new client to holistic healthcare, Dr. Newkirk says, he starts by discussing the concept that a dog is a dog. “It’s a carnivore, not a little human! So right away, I talk to them about what the dog’s diet should be – high-protein, with no grains, and no artificial preservatives. I talk about the options available to them: higher-quality dry products, as well as prepared, raw diets. If they are willing to prepare their dogs’ food, we’ll discuss that, but I also let them know about the difficulties involved with balancing the diet, and the importance of feeding the meats raw. I prefer to steer them toward either a holistic dry food or one of the fresh, frozen foods. “The second thing I discuss with them is appropriate vaccination. The vaccination needs of a hunting dog are going to be quite different from those of a toy Poodle living in a highrise. I want to tailor the vaccine program to the individual based on his or her needs. If the dog is older, I talk about vaccine titers, and how it would be best if we could test the dog’s titers so we don’t vaccinate him – overvaccinate him – if he already has sufficient protection. “I’ll go into more detail about nutrition or behavior if this is indicated. I use Metabolic Nutrition Analysis to prescribe specific supplements to correct the imbalances or deficiencies we find in that dog. If the dog is having behavior issues, I’ll talk about behavior concepts – especially if the dog is living in circumstances that don’t suit who he is, like putting that hunting dog into that highrise apartment – and discuss holistic remedies that can help.”

Reconnecting to life Richard Palmquist, DVM, is head of integrative medicine at Centinela Animal Hospital in Inglewood, California. He is the Research Chair of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association and uses nutrition, acupuncture, homotoxicology, conventional medicine, and surgery in his practice.

A holistic viewpoint, says Dr. Palmquist, is larger than merely a symptom set seen in a patient. “Holistic care involves the treatment of patients while respecting the connections they have to all components of Life. Holistic approaches seek to connect the patients back with Life and to improve their abilities to use their biological nature in the pursuit of the actions of living.” Different healing tools and modalities are used in holistic veterinary practices as specialized tools. “Acupuncture reconnects and balances Life energy,” explains Dr. Palmquist. “Herbal medicine helps to reduce disease signs, decrease oxidative damage, relieve pain, and promote organ healing. Chiropractic realigns damaged physical parts. Energy medicines such as homeopathy, homotoxicology, Reiki, craniosacral therapy, and others align the physical, mental, and spiritual portions of the organism. Yes, I did say spiritual and that is a big part of holistic medicine – recognizing the spiritual nature of Life.” Western medicine, too, has its place in a holistic practice, says Dr. Palmquist. “It is interesting to note that all medicines capable of assisting a patient in recovery are holistic and that includes drugs, but typically there is a barrier between drug use and holistic medicine out of a belief that these fields are different.”

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Seeing Is Believing

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Seventeen years ago, when I was editing a California horse magazine, I received a proposal for a column from a writer with an interest in holistic care for horses. Judging from the samples of her past published work that she included with her proposal, Diana Thompson was a very good writer with in-depth knowledge of horses and a wide variety of holistic treatments. As excited as I was about the prospect of working with this writer, I had to laugh at some of her proposed topics. I mean, come on! Massage and acupuncture is one thing, but Reiki? Homeopathy? Flower essences? Animal communicators? Sheesh!

Nancy Kerns

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It didn’t happen overnight, but in the five years that she wrote the column for me, Diana sold me on those topics and many more, including some that seemed even more far out. In the beginning, it was Diana’s competence at using some of these techniques on horses in our photo shoots that opened my eyes. Frequently we would find ourselves in a stable somewhere with a horse, with Diana demonstrating the techniques she had written about, and me trying to take pictures of an impatient or unruly equine model. Diana would calmly assess the situation, apply acupressure to a few points on the horse, mist him with flower essences, and before I knew it, the formerly fidgety or feisty horse would be calmly standing before us with big, soft eyes and a pliant, sleepy new attitude.

Later, I was influenced by letters we received from readers, thanking us for helping them foster stronger and better working relationships with their horses – and even, occasionally, thanking us for saving their horses lives with a supplement, an herbal remedy, a homeopathic treatment, or some other alternative or complementary treatment they had read about in Diana’s column.

Eventually, that column developed into its own magazine, Whole Horse Journal, which Diana founded and sold to Belvoir Media Group. I left my original job and went to work for Diana, then for Belvoir, and later took the helm of Belvoir’s brainchild, Whole Dog Journal. The horse magazine was discontinued after five years of publication, but after 11 years Whole Dog Journal is still going strong. (So is Diana, incidentally. She’s been working for years on a magnificent book about acupressure for horses, which will be published this year. See handsonhorsecare.com for more information.)

I’ve learned about some pretty far out holistic healthcare practices while editing Whole Dog Journal, and I must say that the modalities that employ some form of “energy medicine” are the most difficult to describe or to believe in. Starting in this issue, longtime contributor CJ Puotinen will be trying her hand at describing a number of these healing tools; she already firmly believes in them, having used a good many of them on her dogs, herself, and her husband over the years. I’ve used a few of them, too, and all I can say is that sometimes, when used as part of a holistic healthcare program, they really work. But you might have to see it to believe it.

-Nancy Kerns

Is Your Dog On Guard, Eliminating Unwanted Canine Behaviors

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Ever had a dog who won’t give you his bone or chew toy if you try to take it from him? Or one who gets uncomfortable or growls if you get close to him when he’s eating his dog food? Or snaps at you if he’s on the sofa and you want him off? Or lifts his lip in a snarl if your friend tries to get close to you?

Answer yes to any of the above, and you’ve successfully diagnosed your dog as having a guarding issue. The catch-all, technical term is “resource-guarding,” and can include guarding of dog food bowls (or food), places (dog crate, dog bed, sofa, etc.), items (rawhide, bones, balls, tissues, etc.) and less commonly, people.

Resource-guarding simply means that a dog gets uncomfortable when we (or other humans) are around him when he has “his stuff.” He’s nervous that we’re going to take it away, so he tries to warn us off in a variety of ways, ranging from simply consuming his food faster, to an all-out bite.

Although canine resource-guarding appears to be more prevalent in certain breeds or classes of dogs, it can appear in literally any dog, including that sweet Papillion that lives down the street, or the goofy Golden Retriever who greets you happily on your morning walks.

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It’s important to recognize, identify, modify, or at least manage this behavior because a dog who is repeatedly pushed or punished in these situations is highly likely to eventually bite. Sure, it might be you that he bites, but it could also be your child, your neighbor’s child, your boss, or your grandmother. Children are most apt to be at risk for a number of reasons. They tend to disregard warnings to “leave the dog alone” when he’s eating or has a toy; they frequently fail to notice the dog’s warning signs (stiffening, growling); and they are closer to the ground, so if the dog decides to bite, most likely the child’s face will bear the brunt of the attack.

Nature or nurture?
Resource-guarding “is a perfectly normal survival skill that allows smaller, weaker, and lower-status dogs to keep possession of a highly valued object even when that object is the target of a larger and stronger dog’s desire,” says Pat Miller, a trainer, Certified Dog Behavior Consultant, and Whole Dog Journal Training Editor. In her book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, Miller notes that, “Natural behavior or not, resource-guarding is a serious problem when it results in open aggression, especially toward humans.”

In the wild, “a group-hunting carnivore would have reproductive advantage over one who gladly relinquishes. It’s a good trait, like a well-developed immune system or legs that can run fast,” says canine behavior expert Jean Donaldson, in her highly educational book, Mine! (devoted solely to the topic of resource-guarding). Of course, she adds, “In a domestic environment, it is undesired.”

Sarah Kalnajs, trainer and Certified Dog Behavior Consultant, describes resource-guarding as having both nature (genetic) and nurture (upbringing) components. A dog might be genetically inclined to guard, but depending how much he is allowed to practice the behavior throughout his life also contributes to the severity of the problem.

Resource-guarding from other dogs is a much more “acceptable” or natural behavior in terms of a dog’s ability to cohabitate with humans. It can certainly lead to big problems, and should not be dismissed, but for the time being, our discussion will focus on guarding from humans. Note: A dog who guards from other dogs will not necessarily resource-guard from humans.

What’s your type?
“Food-guarding” seems to be the most common kind of canine guarding behavior, and is present if the dog “threatens” or bites when:

-Approached while eating from his bowl

-The owner tries to take back a food item the dog has grabbed

-Approached after he finds some kind of food item in the gutter or on the street

“Some dogs may be compulsive, guarding all food items and even an empty dish,” says Donaldson, but she also notes, “The majority will guard only when actually in possession of sufficiently motivating food.” The fact that a dog does not guard a particular food (say, a Milk Bone) does not rule him out as a guarder. It just might not be worthy enough to him as, say, a chicken wing. The only way to determine whether a dog will guard a particular highly motivating food item is to test whether you can readily take that item when the dog has it.

With “object-guarding,” the extent of guarding is dependent upon the value of the object to the dog. Items can include, but are certainly not limited to, bones, rawhides, pig ears, favorite toys/balls, laundry items, tissues, wrappers and other garbage, sticks, and/or any “forbidden” objects the dog happens to pick up – which are made more valuable by extreme owner reaction, such as chasing the dog around the room to get the item back, or screeching at the dog to give the item up. While some trainers classify bones, rawhides, pig ears, and edible garbage as “objects,” Pat Miller classifies them as food as the dog’s intent is to eat them; therefore, she classifies the dog’s behavior as food-guarding.

As with food-guarding, the dog may show signs of guarding simply when a person is in the vicinity, as the person approaches, and/or if the person tries to take the object from him. It is very common that a dog won’t want something unless you want it. “Location-guarding” is also common in modern, dog-loving households. This would describe the following:

-A dog who does not allow owner or spouse into the bedroom or on the bed once the dog is on the bed

-A dog who is grumpy if jostled while on furniture, or when someone tries to move him

-A dog who threatens passersby while he’s in his crate, car, or favorite rest spot

The severity of resource-guarding depends upon the value of the item, and who is approaching. In the case of location-guarding, the dog might allow “the wife” on the bed, but not her husband.

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“Owner-guarding” seems to occur fairly frequently when other dogs are present. Occasionally, however, the dog will guard his person if the dog is on leash with the person, or near her. Some people interpret this as “protectiveness.”

Pat Miller differentiates these behaviors. “A good ‘protection’ dog recognizes a legitimate threat to his person and acts to deter the threat, or waits for instructions from the human to act. A dog who is ‘guarding’ his person – in the sense of resource-guarding – covets his owner as a possession that he’s not willing to share with other dogs, or sometimes other humans. He sees the approaching dog/person as a threat to his enjoyment of his resource, rather than a physical threat to the person.”

Owner-guarding can also become somewhat muddied if the owner has in his possession some resource – food or a bone, for example – that is valuable to the dog. He may react if his human carries treats or a bait bag. In this case, what, really, is the dog guarding: item or owner?

Trainer Virginia Broitman notes that many dogs who guard their owners are actually very insecure, and might feel empowered to act out because their humans are there. Or, the dog is on leash and cannot escape, so he resorts to an impressive display to keep the stranger away. Were he without his handler, or not on leash, we might see a different reaction.

Stay positive
You’ve shouted “No!” You’ve stomped your foot. You’ve used a physical correction. But your dog still freezes and growls when you get near him when he’s eating or when he has his “stuff.” What can you do?

First, you need to understand that shouting, stomping, and using physical corrections on the dog will only make matters worse.

I recently saw video footage of a trainer working with a large, young dog who had a history of guarding his food bowl. Over time, the owners had tried a variety of approaches: yelling at the dog, leaning over him while he ate and yelling, hand feeding, and petting the dog while he ate. Unfortunately, the owner reported that the dog had become reactive to the owner when the owner was at a greater and greater distance from the guarded food. And when the owner tried “dominance” — in which he stood over the dog while the dog ate and “made” him do things for his food, then physically reprimanded the dog for being aggressive – the owner got bitten.

While the footage was stellar – the camera caught all of the dog’s warnings superbly – the method that the trainer recommended for dealing with the problem was not. Instead of using behavior modification, which has the potential to make the dog safe around anyone, the trainer elected to use force and physical corrections using a choke chain to “show the dog that the people were in charge.”

The trainer advised the couple to approach the bowl with the dog on leash and physically correct the dog for lunging toward the bowl or showing any signs of aggression (guarding), then “make” the dog sit about a foot away from the food. Once the dog was “calm,” he was allowed to eat, remaining on leash with the owner. If the dog showed any aggression, the handler was to physically correct the dog and yank him away from the food bowl, wait for the dog to “calm down,” then start again.

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There are several problems with this approach. First, the couple hoped to one day have children, and this “method” taught the dog nothing about interacting with someone who didn’t have a leash and the strength to make a physical correction. In addition, the trainer repeatedly triggered a reaction from the dog. Behavior experts agree that, in contrast to the approach used in the video, successful behavior modification works at a sub-threshold level, at a low-enough level of intensity to prevent the dog from reacting. Also, the trainer also did nothing to address the dog’s emotional state (nervous, insecure, and stressed) and instead intensified it; what was defined as “calm” was anything but.

It’s possible to suppress guarding behavior using force, says Pat Miller. “However, you haven’t changed the dog’s emotional response to a threat to his resource, just his physical response. It’s quite possible that the guarding behavior will return if and when he feels too threatened, or is approached by someone that he doesn’t perceive as capable of overpowering his desire for his resource.

“Any time you use force, you risk escalating the level of violence rather than modifying the behavior. You may not know until you’ve done significant behavioral damage that your dog is one who escalates, rather than shuts down, in the presence of violence.”

Here’s another dire scenario: If your dog growls at you over his food bowl and you punish or challenge him in some way, it might very well occur to him that his growl wasn’t sufficient to warn you off. He may resort to the next warning level – a snarl, snap, or worse – in an effort to more effectively protect his food.

Behavior modification:
Get to the problem’s root

Experts agree that the best route to take in dealing with resource-guarding is to use a combination of management and behavior modification.

Essentially, “management” entails intervening in (or anticipating and preventing) a situation so that the dog cannot repeat inappropriate behavior. For example, we keep food and toys picked up around a resource-guarder so that he cannot engage in guarding. Management does not necessarily or teach the dog anything; he simply has less opportunity to practice an undesirable behavior.

The most important tools in the behavior-modification toolbox, though, are systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning.

Desensitization involves exposing the dog to whatever it is that previously evoked his fear or anxiety, but at a distance and intensity that does not produce a response.

Counter-conditioning is a process in which we replace a dog’s involuntary, undesirable reaction (such as fear) with a more desirable response – one that is incompatible with the undesirable old response (such as the eager anticipation of a tasty treat). We create a positive emotional response by associating an event (your approach) with something good (a reward). This methodology has been proven to work, and is relatively easy and pleasant for both human and dog.

With counter-conditioning, you don’t exert your “control” over the dog in any way, but instead, transform your presence around the dog’s possessions into a signal that even better things are coming. One event becomes a reliable predictor of another event, and the subject develops an anticipatory response to the first event. By pairing good things (extra scrumptious treats) with the formerly bad thing (your approach or presence near whatever he is guarding), your proximity starts to become a better thing – a predictor of what is to come (treats!).

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The goal is to transform a food-guarder who becomes tense or upset when a person approaches him while he’s eating into a dog who is happy to be approached while eating, as this reliably predicts the delivery of even more food or treats.

Donaldson stresses the need to work at a low threshold; if at any point the dog shows the original reaction, you have gone super-threshold, and it is necessary to back up and start at a point where the dog does not react. “No good comes of rehearsing the dog’s old, growly behavior by replicating super-threshold versions of the trigger. In fact, it can make the dog worse.”

Donaldson also makes it clear that when working with a guarder, we need to be sure that the first event (the “threat” to the resource) must come before the delivery of the counter-conditioning treat. For example, in a food bowl exercise, “the approach, bowl touch, or bowl removal must precede the addition of bonuses to the dish.” This means that we do not, for example, show a dog the bait in hopes of preventing a guarding reaction. Doing so will not condition the appropriate emotional response.

Doing the work
Ideally, you start with a young pup who doesn’t guard and teach him early on that your presence predicts good stuff, says Miller. “You do this by offering to trade something wonderful for whatever he already has – such as a toy of moderate value, to start with – working your way up to really high-value items. I teach a ‘Give’ cue by saying ‘Give,’ then offering a high value treat in exchange for his object. Repeat until he will happily give up any object when you ask him to ‘Give.’ ”

Trainers use different protocols; there is always more than one way to approach an exercise. The protocol you use should be tailored to your dog, depending on the seriousness of his guarding behavior. “Progress gradually to the next step, only when your dog is totally relaxed at the current step,” says trainer Virginia Broitman. “Some dogs will move quickly through the steps, while others may need weeks of work. Don’t rush! If at any point you are concerned for your safety or unclear on any step, discontinue the exercises and consult an experienced trainer/behavior counselor for personalized assistance.”

One example of a protocol for a dog who already guards objects begins with a good look at all the items in the dog’s environment and ranking them according to their value to the dog. For instance, a ball may be a low-value item, while a rawhide may be extremely high-value. A list might look like this:

• Stuffed squeaky toys
• Latex squeaky toys
• Rubbery flying disks
• Pig’s ears
• Rawhide chews
• Rope toys
• Balls
• Socks
• Newspapers and magazines

Once the items have been ranked, training begins with the items that the dog doesn’t especially care about and does not want. Initially, higher value items must not be available to the dog, because we want to prevent him from “practicing” his guarding behavior.

A session begins with the trainer presenting a low-value item to the dog and telling him to “Take it!” Almost immediately, the trainer gives a cue for “Drop it!” and gives the dog an extremely delicious treat.” The idea is that the dog is more than happy to “drop” the low-value item in favor of the treat. This exercise would be repeated dozens of times over a number of sessions.

Note: If the trainer is concerned that the dog may act aggressively in order to take the higher-value treat, she should have the dog on a tether, position herself just out of reach, and toss the treats in such a way to most safely reach for the low-value item. Again, in the case of a dog whose guarding behavior rates higher than a four on the scale found on page 5, the services of a qualified, positive canine behavior professional are recommended.

Only when the dog is comfortable with the first step would the protocol change, first by giving the dog the item and walking away, giving him a minute to enjoy the low-value item, and then returning to trade. As long as the dog continues to respond well to these exercises, you would work up to the more valuable items higher on your dog’s list. Training would occur in a variety of locations, and from then on, throughout the dog’s life, “spot checks” would be instituted to be sure that the dog retained what he learned.

Note: This example is a summary provided only to give the reader an idea as to what is involved in rehabilitating a guarder. If you have a guarder, you will need to follow a more detailed, structured protocol, and may require the assistance of a qualified behavior professional. See “Finding the Right Trainer,” below.

If your household includes children, you will need to take special precautions. Initially, only the adults should work with a dog who guards; kids should be a part of the guarding-rehabilitation program only after the adults have worked extensively with the dog, and only under direct supervision of an adult. Never assume that once your dog stops guarding with you, that he’ll stop guarding his items from the kids.

Similarly, you should never assume that once your dog no longer guards his cherished items from you or your family, he will no longer guard them from other people. Plan, manage, and supervise your dog’s interactions carefully, to prevent any possible harm to other people.

For location-guarding, follow a similar protocol. Start by using a place the dog does not guard and reward him for coming away from/off the place willingly. Donaldson likes to use target training as part of this protocol.

Manage in the mean time
Guarding behavior can be a daunting challenge to overcome, especially if it has progressed significantly. In this case, you must find an experienced trainer/behaviorist with whom to work. Until you are able to get help, management is a valid alternative. This involves avoiding the problem or trigger through environmental control. For example, if your dog guards pig ears, remove them from your home and do not allow him access to them. Keep the bedroom door closed to a bed-guarder.

If there is a “management failure,” and the dog gets on the bed, you can either ignore the dog and wait for him to come off the bed on his own, or, more proactively, redirect him to an alternative activity, such as calling the dog to the kitchen for a cookie or inviting him out for a brief walk.

If your food-guarder ever manages to pick up something that’s dangerous (such as a bar of dark chocolate) or valuable to you (like your prescription glasses), Donaldson advises trying a quick, calm, “bait and switch.” Bribe or distract the dog with anything you can think of. “Although bribery is totally ineffective for fostering actual behavior change, when you’re in a jam, anything goes,” she says. But remember, repeated management failures teach the dog nothing.

Rehabilitation of a resource-guarder takes time and requires patience. But the payoff in the end – for you, your dog, and your friends and family – is well worth the effort.

Lisa Rodier became interested in guarding behaviors through her volunteer work in shelters and Bouvier rescue. She lives in Alpharetta, Georgia, with her husband and two Bouviers, and serves on the Board of Advisors for Service Dogs of Virginia, Inc.

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