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Never before have ordinary owners had the opportunity to make such a difference in the health of all dogs. Im talking about the canine rabies vaccine challenge study that just got underway at the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine in Madison. Dr. Ronald Schultz, a leading authority on veterinary vaccines and chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences there, has begun concurrent five- and seven-year challenge studies to determine the long-term duration of immunity of the canine rabies vaccine, with the goal of extending the state-mandated interval for boosters. These will be the first long-term challenge studies on the vaccine to be published in the U.S.
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Because the USDA does not require vaccine manufacturers to provide long-term duration of immunity studies documenting maximum effectiveness when licensing their products, concerned dog owners have contributed the money to fund this research themselves, explains Kris. L. Christine, co-trustee of The Rabies Challenge Fund, a charitable trust organized to fund the studies. We want to ensure that rabies immunization laws are based upon independent, long-term scientific data.
Yes, Ive previously pleaded for your support of for this project. You see, while the canine rabies vaccine has undoubtedly saved countless lives, many attentive owners have observed its ability to cause serious side effects and trigger lifelong health problems in their dogs. Adverse reactions include auto-immune diseases affecting the thyroid, joints, blood, eyes, skin, kidney, liver, bowel, and central nervous system; anaphylactic shock; aggression; seizures; epilepsy; and fibrosarcomas at injection sites. Ive seen it myself; the formerly stable health of my own dog, Rupert (now deceased), took a sudden dive after receiving a legally mandated rabies booster (required for licensing) at age 10.
Scientific data published in 1992 demonstrated that dogs were immune to a rabies challenge five years after vaccination. Dr. Schultzs serological studies have documented antibody titer counts at levels known to confer immunity to rabies seven years post-vaccination. This data strongly suggests that state laws requiring annual or triennial rabies boosters for dogs are redundant.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM, a world-renowned veterinary research scientist and practicing clinician, serves as co-trustee of The Rabies Challenge Fund. This is the first time in my 43 years of involvement in veterinary issues that what started as a grass-roots effort to change an outmoded regulation affecting animals will be addressed scientifically by an acknowledged expert to benefit all canines in the future, says Dr. Dodds.
The Fund recently met its goal to fund the studies first year. However, annual budget goals of $150,000 for the studies must be met. See rabieschallengefund.org or call the Fund at (714) 891-2022 to learn how you can support this research and all dogs who are legally required to receive the rabies vaccine.
1. Evaluate your own dogs and make wise choices about new canine family members.
2. Plan your introductions – time, place, and process – to optimize your potential for success in adding a new dog to your existing pack.
3. Enlist the aid of a professional behavior consultant, or knowledgeable friend, to help handle dogs during introductions and ensure the safety of all participants.
You’re contemplating the addition of another canine family member to your pack. You’ve thought it through and are convinced that it’s the right time. Perhaps you have your eye on a homeless dog at your local shelter or a rescue dog staying temporarily in a foster home. Maybe the long-awaited puppy from that carefully researched breeder is due soon, or a friend or family member has asked you to take in a dog that they must rehome. However you plan to acquire your new canine companion, if you already have dogs in your home, you’ll need to prepare for the potentially stressful process known as “new dog introduction.”
Such was the case for us recently when my husband Paul, director of the Humane Society of Washington County, Maryland, warned me that he was falling for Missy, an eight-year-old red merle Australian Shepherd who had been surrendered by her owner to the shelter. Even before our decision to bring her home was final, knowing the importance of dog-dog introductions, I began planning the introduction process.
There are a number of factors to keep in mind that can increase the likelihood of a positive outcome when introducing a new dog into your home. A peaceful first introduction sets the stage for long term relationships. The more heavily you can weigh the odds in your favor for that first encounter, the greater your chance for lifelong peace in the pack. The factors to keep in mind include:
• Timing
• Location
• Number of skilled handlers available
• Knowing and understanding – to the greatest extent possible – the personalities and histories of all the dogs involved
With four dogs already in our family, including Dubhy, our dog-reactive Scottish Terrier, new-dog introductions aren’t simple. Fortunately, we’ve done it enough to know where the high-risk danger zones are with our pack, how best to avoid or overcome them, and how to make optimum use of the above factors.
Timing of Dog Introductions Matter
It’s best to add a new dog to your home when things are otherwise calm and reasonably stress-free. Allow ample time for a leisurely introduction process and a low-key adjustment period with adequate supervision. You’ll also need time to be able to iron out any wrinkles that may appear. This may mean taking time off work, in case your dogs don’t hit it off instantly. Holidays are generally not the ideal time for introductions unless, for you, “home for the holidays,” means lots of quiet time spent alone with your fur-family.
Of course, you can’t always control the timing. Many breeders and adopters have a fairly inflexible preconceived idea of the appropriate age at which a puppy should be transferred to his forever home. A friend or family member may be under personal pressures – landlord dictums, relationship issues, risks to children in the home, or municipal limit laws or breed bans – that require prompt rehoming.
Introducing Missy
A shelter or rescue dog may be facing a ticking clock that dictates a speedy adoption. An outbreak of parvovirus at Paul’s shelter meant that Missy had to come home posthaste, to avoid her exposure to the very contagious disease.
The timing could have been better. I was two days away from hosting a Reactive Rover Camp at my home. This meant that it would be out of the question to temporarily keep the barking Aussie in a stall in the barn – where my training center is located – in order to facilitate slow introductions over a several day period with Paul in attendance. I knew Missy’s barking would render the training environment too stressful for reactive dogs to stay sub-threshold and respond well to our counter-conditioning and desensitization program. We had to get the job done quickly, in order to transition the new girl into our family and our house.
The Best Place to Introduce Dogs
It’s best to introduce dogs in neutral territory – ideally outdoors, in a large, open, safely fenced space. The more trapped a dog feels, the more her stress will push her toward defensive aggression. Plus, when you do introductions in one dog’s territory, it gives him the home-field advantage, and you risk displays of territorial aggression.
Optimum options include a fenced yard other than your own, an off-leash dog park at low-use time (as in no other dogs present), a tennis court (caution – many tennis courts understandably prohibit dogs), or a large, open, uncluttered indoor area such as someone’s unfinished basement.
Our only large, fenced, outdoor open space is our backyard, to which our dogs had, naturally, already staked a territorial claim. Our next best choice for introductions was the training center – a 20′ x 80′ space with very little furniture. We opted for that space for Missy to meet three of our dogs, and the backyard for the fourth.
Number of Skilled Dog Handlers
Ideally, you’ll want one handler per dog. One skilled handler, that is. Someone who panics and intervenes unnecessarily can botch the whole job by adding stress to dogs who are still sorting out relationships.
Barring skilled handlers, at least find handlers who are good at following instructions and don’t succumb easily to hysterical behavior. If you can’t find those, you’re better off with fewer handlers, although you should have at least one other person present, if for no other reason then to help you if the situation gets out of hand.
Life is rarely ideal. Because of our truncated time frame for introductions with Missy, our options for multiple handlers were limited. Paul had to work, my other trainers weren’t available, so it was up to me and my full-time associate, Shirley, to play referee for our pack introductions. I was only really worried about Dubhy’s reaction to Missy; it’s difficult to predict how he’ll respond to a new dog, but we have added two canines to our family successfully since the emergence of his dog reactive/aggressive behavior, so my hopes were high.
Each Dog’s Personality and History
You may not know much about the newcomer, especially if she’s a rescue or shelter dog. You should, however, have a pretty good sense of your own dogs’ canine social skills. Do they play well with others at the dog park? During playtime at good manners class? With their own packmates? How do they act with doggie visitors to their home? During chance encounters with other canines on the streets?
If you have reason to believe that your dogs are anything less than gregarious with conspecifics (others of their own species) due to a history of aggressive behavior with other dogs, or if you just aren’t confident about refereeing the introductions yourself, you might do well to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional. She will be able to help you read and understand your dogs’ body language, and optimize the potential for success. (For more information about translating canine body language, see “Understanding How Your Dog Communicates“, and “Properly Interpreting Your Dog’s Body Language“.
I hope you’ve already given great consideration to good personality matches when you selected your new dog. If you have a dog in your pack who likes to assert himself, you’re wise to choose a new dog who’s happy to maintain a lower profile in the hierarchy. If your current dog is a shrinking violet, she’ll be happiest with a new companion who doesn’t bully her mercilessly. If you have one of those canine gems who gets along with everyone, then you have more adoption options.
If you want your gem to be able to be “top dog,” then look for a soft, appeasing-type dog. If you don’t care where your easygoing dog ends up in the new hierarchy, then you have the entire canine personality continuum to choose from.
We knew our personal canine characters would present some challenges. A quick analysis revealed the following about the dogs we wanted to mingle with Missy:
Fifteen-year-old Katie, a very geriatric, arthritic, spayed, 45-pound Australian Kelpie, with a long history of asserting herself with the other members of the Miller pack. Literally on her last legs, Katie was approaching the last few weeks of her life, and had difficulty getting around. Her crankiness was exacerbated by her physical problems, but her mobility was so limited that she presented a low-level threat.
Seven-year-old Dubhy, an assertive, neutered, 25-pound Scottish Terrier, the loner of the group. He gets along well with the rest of the pack, but rarely engages in play with them. His reactivity developed when he was about 18 months old. I’ve worked with him to reduce his reactivity threshold distance to about three feet, although he’s better with small dogs.
Three-year-old Lucy, a lively, assertive, spayed, 35-pound Cardigan Welsh Corgi, who is the only one of the group who challenges Katie (regularly). She tends to act submissive when meeting a new dog, but guards certain places, objects, and me.
Two-year-old Bonnie, a soft, appeasing, spayed, 35-pound Scottie/Corgi mix who gets along with absolutely everyone.
Eight-year-old Missy, an appeasing, 40-pound female Australian Shepherd, possibly intact (not spayed), mild to moderate lameness in her right hind leg/hip. Missy had lived with other dogs before and has had at least four prior homes.
The Dog-Dog Introduction Process
I prefer introducing a new dog to the easier dogs first, one at a time. Assuming all goes well with the one-on-ones, I try a threesome, adding an additional dog as their behavior allows.
The process I use and recommend to clients is to start with dogs on leashes on opposite sides of an enclosed space. Try to keep leashes loose, if possible. Watch the dogs’ behavior. They should seem interested in each other, alert without excessive arousal. Ideally you’ll see tails wagging at half-mast; soft, wriggling body postures; play bows; ears back; squinty eyes; no direct eye contact. These are clear expressions of non-aggressive social invitation.
Warning signs include stiffness in the body; standing tall; ears pricked hard forward; growling; hard direct eye contact; stiffly raised, fast-wagging tails; lunging on the leash; and aggressive barking.
If you see social behavior, proceed with an approach until the dogs are about 10 feet apart. If they continue to show unambiguous signs of friendliness, drop the leashes and let them meet. I prefer to let dogs meet and greet off-leash; leashes tend to interfere with the dogs’ ability to greet normally, and can actually induce dogs to give false body language signals.
For example, a tight leash can stiffen and raise a dog’s front end, causing her to look more tense and provocative than she means to be, which in turn can cause the other dog to react on the offensive. A defensive dog who wants to retreat may feel trapped because of the leash and act aggressively because she can’t move away.
Initially, leave the leashes on, dragging freely on the floor, so you can grab them and separate the dogs easily if necessary. Monitor the greeting. You are likely to see some normal jockeying for position and some tension, as they sniff and circle, and then erupt into play. As soon as you can tell that they’re getting along, remove leashes and let them play unencumbered. Watch them! You want to ensure that the play doesn’t escalate into excessive arousal (which can lead to aggression), but remember that it’s normal and acceptable for dogs to growl and bite each other in play. As long as both dogs are enjoying the action, it’s a good thing.
If you see warning signs as you approach with the dogs on leash, you’ll need to proceed more slowly. Most commonly you’ll see behavior ranging somewhere between completely relaxed and friendly and outright aggressive. You’ll need to judge whether the intensity of the behavior is high enough that you need to stop and seek professional assistance, or low enough that you can proceed with caution.
If you do decide to proceed, interrupt any of the dogs’ prolonged, hard eye contact by having the handlers divert their dog’s attention with bits of tasty treats. Continue to work with the dogs in the others’ presence, watching for signs of decreasing arousal. Keeping the dogs as far apart as possible in the enclosed area, walk them around on loose leashes, gradually bringing them closer together until they are walking parallel to each other.
Get a list of even more tips on the best way to introduce dogs here.
Stay Calm!
It’s important that you stay calm and relaxed during this process. If you jerk or tighten the leash or yell at the dogs, you’ll add stress to the situation and make it more difficult for them to relax.
Say you see signs that the dogs have relaxed with each other; this is where your experience and instincts come into play. You may decide to proceed with dropped-leash greetings. Or you may choose to end the introduction for the time being. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and do several more on-leash sessions to make sure the dogs are comfortable with each other. Meanwhile, you’ll need to manage the dogs so they don’t have free access to each other. If you’re not confident in your judgment about body language, you may choose to enlist the help of a professional at this point in the process.
If tensions between the dogs escalate or maintain at the same level of intensity despite your on-leash work over several sessions, the wise choice may be to look for a different dog to adopt into your home. Alternatively, you may want to do ongoing work with a behavior professional to try to make the relationship work, knowing that management may be a large part of your life for the foreseeable future.
Be careful if you see no interaction between the two dogs you’re introducing. What appears to be calm acceptance of each other may in fact be avoidance, where neither dog is comfortable with the other and they deal with it by not dealing with it. The problem with this is that sooner or later the dogs will interact if they’re both living in your home, and the discomfort may well develop into aggression. I really want to see some interaction between dogs in order to make a decision about adoption.
I chose to introduce Lucy and Missy first. Shirley held Lucy on-leash at one end of the training center, while I entered with Missy on-leash at the other end. Both dogs appeared relaxed and interested in each other. We approached to a distance of 10 feet and dropped leashes. The two dogs sniffed and circled, with Lucy offering appeasement behaviors: ears back, lowered body posture, corners of mouth slightly pulled back, and squinty eyes.
After a moment we removed the leashes, and the two engaged in some half-hearted play. Then Lucy walked over to the rack that holds dog toys, asking for me to throw her ball. I complied, and she happily chased the ball while Missy stayed at my feet. When Lucy raced back with the ball, Missy growled at her. Note to self: Missy has been here less than 24 hours and she’s already resource-guarding me. This could be problematic, especially since Lucy also displays owner-guarding and space-guarding behaviors. Hmmm.
Missy continued to display occasional mild guarding behavior while Lucy played. Her behavior didn’t escalate and Lucy didn’t take offense. I decided to table my concerns for the time being and proceed with the next introduction.
Bonnie was next. I was pretty unconcerned about this introduction; Bonnie gets along with everyone. My lack of concern was justified. We quickly proceeded to off-leash play, and Bonnie’s very appeasing attitude elicited no owner-guarding response whatsoever from Missy.
I then reintroduced Lucy to the pair, and all went reasonably well. Missy seemed less concerned with Lucy’s proximity to me with Bonnie in the mix, perhaps because her attention was divided.
We decided that Missy had probably had enough for one day, and put off the introductions to the two more difficult Miller dogs to the next day. The start of Reactive Rover Camp the day after that loomed large on the horizon. We had to get Missy out of the barn and into the house!
Missy’s introduction to Dubhy was my greatest concern. I proceeded with caution, and my fears were quickly justified. When I entered the training center with Dubhy, I had a pressurized can of citronella spray (Direct Stop/Spray Shield) in my pocket, high value treats in one hand, Dubhy’s leash in the other. As soon as he spotted Missy at the far end of the training center, Dubhy “turned on.” His head and tail went up, and his normally soft mouth got hard – I could feel his teeth on my fingers as he took treats from me. Happily, he remembered his “Reactive Rover” lessons, and quickly looked from Missy to me for the treats, but there was still tension in his body and arousal in his brain.
Shirley and I walked the two dogs around the training center, gradually bringing the dogs closer together. Dubhy’s mouth softened and his tail lowered as he grew accustomed to Missy’s presence. We eventually brought the dogs within three feet of each other, and Dubhy continued to be reasonably relaxed. I could see that he was still somewhat on alert, but I decided to make the leap, and told Shirley to drop Missy’s leash. Shirley looked at me as if I was nuts, but dropped the leash as requested. I dropped Dubhy’s, and he immediately lunged at Missy’s face with a ferocious snarl.
My heart sank as I leaped forward and sprayed Dubhy with a long blast of citronella to halt his attack. Missy had turned her face away from her attacker, and the spray shoots a very direct, narrow stream, so I could avoid punishing Missy for Dubhy’s aggression.
This was a deal breaker; I wasn’t willing to live with a lifetime of management between these two. If I hadn’t been on a tight schedule for integrating Missy into the household, I would have separated them with their leashes instead of using the spray, and reverted to a gradual introduction process. In fact, I wouldn’t even have gotten so close, given Dubhy’s tension and past history of dog-related aggression. I knew I was pushing the agenda already, by bringing them together quickly.
Dubhy stopped in his tracks and gave me a surprised look. The tension immediately vanished from his body and he glanced at Missy, then looked back at me. He stepped forward and sniffed Missy. She avoided eye contact by turning her head away, then stepped away from him.
Her response to him was so appropriate, and his changed body language so remarkable, that I stifled my first impulse to stop the introduction, and let them continue. Good thing! The interaction proceeded without any more aggression, and Dubhy has been perfect with Missy ever since; go figure! I don’t recommend using an aversive to try to make dog-dog relationships work. Any time an aversive is used there is a significant risk of increasing the negative association with the other dog: Dubhy could have been angrier with Missy if he perceived her as the cause of the spray. I was lucky that it had the opposite effect in this case.
My intent in using the spray with Dubhy was simply to interrupt the aggression to protect Missy. I fully expected that his behavior would preclude our adopting Missy into our home. I was surprised and grateful that it served to modify his behavior, apparently permanently – a happy accidental outcome of my crisis intervention.
As expected, Missy’s introduction to Katie in our backyard was uneventful, due to Katie’s mobility challenges. The aged Kelpie snarked at Missy briefly as the Aussie passed her on the back porch, but Missy, bless her, just ignored Katie’s rude behavior and headed out to the yard to play in the grass. One by one I released the other dogs to join Missy in the yard, all without incident. Missy was home.
Now, a few months later, Missy is doing well. She no longer has to deal with Katie, who passed away a few weeks after Missy’s arrival. Missy and Lucy occasionally posture over favored spaces in the house, but these incidents are minor and manageable. We’ve not had a whisper of inappropriate behavior from Dubhy toward Missy since his citronella experience – in fact, the two of them occasionally play together. Bonnie, as always, is no trouble at all. I hope all of your new family introductions go as well as ours did.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.
Can the same drug-resistant illness that has been killing people in record numbers infect your dog? Can drug-resistant Staph infections be passed between dogs and humans? Is your dog at risk? Might your dog be a health hazard to others?
The answers are yes, yes, and maybe. Fortunately, there are many ways to prevent the spread of bacterial infections, including the drug-resistant kind.
Understanding MRSA
For decades, public health officials warned that the overuse of prescription antibiotics and antibacterial soap and hand wipes could lead to the growth of supergerms, drug-resistant bacteria that are difficult if not impossible to control.
They were right. In fact, just four years after penicillin became available in 1943, scientists documented microbes that could resist it. The first was Staphylococcus aureus, a ubiquitous bacterium that is usually harmless but which in susceptible patients can cause pneumonia, severe skin infections, or toxic shock syndrome.
By the 1990s, one strain became especially problematic. MRSA (pronounced MER-sa), or Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus, got its name because the drug most commonly used to control it no longer worked.
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Since then, MRSA outbreaks have been increasing in the United States, England, and other countries. In the U.S., infection rates tripled between 2000 and 2005. According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, an estimated 95,000 Americans contracted MRSA in 2005, resulting in 18,650 deaths, a number that surpassed that years HIV/AIDS death rate. In most cases, patients who died were elderly, already ill, or at risk because of compromised immunity, but MRSA has also killed the young and healthy, including, last October, teenagers in Virginia and New York.
Staph bacteria live on the skin or in the nose of about one-third of the worlds population. Those who harbor the bacteria but dont have symptoms are colonized but not infected. They are carriers of the illness and can infect others.
Fortunately, Staph bacteria are usually harmless because the immune systems of most dogs and humans successfully keep the bacteria in check. Even if they enter the body, they cause only minor skin problems in most cases. In susceptible individuals, however, the bacterial population can suddenly increase and sicken its host.
Physicians check for MRSA by sending tissue samples or nasal secretions to diagnostic laboratories. Because bacterial culture tests take 48 hours and time is of the essence, tests that quickly detect Staph DNA are becoming widespread.
There are two types of MRSA: Hospital-Acquired (HA) and Community-Associated (CA).
HA-MRSA is alive and well in healthcare facilities, its original breeding ground. This strain, which is highly resistant to treatment with conventional drugs, causes internal infections in vulnerable patients, usually after gaining access to the body through catheters, surgical wounds, feeding tubes, invasive medical procedures, or lung infections. Those most at risk are the elderly, ill, and immune-compromised.
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CA-MRSA is less resistant to treatment but more dangerous because it grows rapidly in otherwise healthy patients. Its initial symptom looks like a red pimple, boil, insect bite, or spider bite. If left untreated, the swelling develops into abscesses that cause fever, pus, swelling, and pain.
Those most at risk of acquiring CA-MRSA include children, people of all ages who have weakened immune systems, those who live in crowded or unsanitary conditions, people who are in close contact with healthcare workers, and professional and amateur athletes who participate in contact sports. Sharing towels, razors, uniforms, and athletic equipment has spread MRSA among sports teams.
Dogs at risk
There have been many disturbing reports about MRSA, but the most alarming to dog lovers is the news that humans can infect dogs with this disease and vice-versa.
Michelle Rivera, who lives in North Palm Beach, Florida, contracted MRSA in 2005, the same year that 64 residents of Palm Beach County died of the disease. I never once heard that my pets could be at risk because of my infection, she says. I was in a drug-induced coma for three weeks and bedridden for six months. This is one nasty superbug.
Last October, the New York newspaper Newsday reported that MRSA cases are increasing among pets and that many pets have contracted the disease from their owners. Newsday quoted Patrick McDonough, PhD, an assistant professor at Cornell Universitys veterinary college: This is what we call reverse zoonosis. The organism is moving from people to animals. Once animals colonize it, we dont know how long they maintain it, but this is one case where they are sharing what we have.
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In the same article, veterinarian Lewis Gelfand, DVM, of Long Beach, New York, reported that he has seen 19 cases of MRSA in dogs during the past year. I believe it is a significantly underdiagnosed and rapidly expanding problem, he said. We have been seeing dermatological cases as well as open sores.
On November 9, 2007, Fox News Channel 40 in Binghamton, New York, reported that Cooper, a 100-pound Italian Spinoni belonging to Andrea Irwin, had been diagnosed with MRSA, which caused sores all over the dogs stomach and legs.
He had recurrent Staph infections since the fall of 2004, Irwin told reporters. He had been treated on and off for those infections, but they never cleared up totally. This July the vet decided it was time to take some skin cultures and send them to Cornell University, where Cooper tested positive for the human strain of MRSA. Following successful treatment, he made a full recovery.
When Cooper was diagnosed, Irwin felt frustrated by the lack of information available about MRSAs effect on dogs. The only information I could find was from a website for the Bella Moss Foundation, she said.
English actress Jill Moss created the foundation in memory of her Samoyed, Bella, who ruptured a cruciate ligament in July 2004 while chasing squirrels in a London park. What should have been a routine repair turned into a nightmare when Bellas leg swelled with pus. Because the veterinarians who treated her didnt recognize MRSA, Bella became the worlds first documented canine fatality from the disease. Pets-MRSA.com, the foundations website, is a leading information resource about MRSAs effects on animals.
Preventing MRSA
Public health officials agree that the best way to prevent MRSA is with frequent hand washing. Scrub hands briskly with soapy water for at least 15 seconds before rinsing, then dry them with a paper towel and use a second paper towel to turn off the faucet and open the bathroom door.
When you dont have soap and water, use a hand sanitizer that contains at least 62 percent alcohol or a small amount of disinfecting essential oils. The chemicals used in antibacterial soaps and hand wipes have been blamed by public health officials for the mutation of drug-resistant bacteria, so consider alternatives to soaps and wipes containing antibacterial chemicals.
Clean and disinfect all cuts, wounds, bites, stings, and open sores. Keep wounds clean and covered with sterile, dry bandages until they heal. Sanitize linens if you or your dog have any cut or sore by washing sheets, towels, and bedding in hot water and drying them in a hot dryer.
If you or your dog have a persistent skin infection, have it tested for MRSA to be sure you receive an antibiotic that is targeted to wipe out the bacteria, without promoting the resistant population.
Last, use antibiotics appropriately. Follow label instructions and dont share or save unfinished antibiotics. Because antibiotics are not effective against viruses, dont insist on getting a prescription for a cold or other viral infection.
Holistic care and prevention
Keeping colonized dogs from spreading MRSA and keeping at-risk dogs safe requires frequent hand washing, dog bathing, and keeping wounds and bedding clean.
Dogs that are MRSA carriers or who have close contact with someone infected with MRSA can pose a risk to small children, pregnant women, the elderly, and anyone with an active illness or open sore. Commonsense precautions include keeping your dog clean and not letting your dog lick everyone.
Probiotic supplements are recommended for MRSA prevention because beneficial bacteria are the immune systems first line of defense. Products containing Lactobacillus bacteria, especially L. sporogenes, or other beneficial bacteria can be given before meals or according to label directions.
According to Mary G. Enig, PhD, one of the worlds leading experts on fats and oils, coconut oils medium-chain fatty acids inhibit the growth of many pathogenic microorganisms, including Staph bacteria. She sites research on two strains of S. aureus showing that monolaurin from coconut oil combined with the essential oil of oregano, which is itself a powerful disinfectant, worked better than the most potent antibiotic.
This research showed, she writes, that these safe antimicrobial agents could be useful for prevention and therapy of Staphylococcus aureus and numerous other infections. It is now clear and scientifically validated that the inclusion of coconut oil in the diet could and should be utilized for its preventive and healing properties.
The recommended amount of coconut oil for dogs is 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight per day, or up to twice that amount in divided doses if the dog is a carrier, has an active infection, or is exposed to someone with MRSA. Start with small amounts and increase gradually. (See Crazy About Coconut Oil, Whole Dog Journal October 2005.)
Many essential oils kill harmful bacteria, including cinnamon bark, clove bud, savory, thyme, lavender, tea tree, and the previously mentioned oregano.
Oregano essential oil (be sure the label says Origanum vulgaris, preferably wildcrafted or organic) can be given to dogs internally by placing drops in an empty two-part gel cap (available at health food stores), closing the cap, and placing it in a small amount of food so that the dog swallows it whole. Dogs do not like the taste! Use 1 drop of oregano oil per 50 pounds body weight once or twice per day. For small dogs, dilute 1 drop essential oil in ½ teaspoon vegetable oil and give ⅛ teaspoon per 10-15 pounds.
Cinnamon bark oil is a powerful skin irritant and should not be applied externally, but it can be added to laundry water to disinfect towels or bedding. All of the essential oils mentioned here, including cinnamon, can be dispersed in an aromatherapy diffuser or mixed with water (20 drops per quart or 5 drops per cup) and sprayed in the air, avoiding furniture and pets, or on kitchen and bathroom surfaces, doorknobs, crates, and pet bedding.
Manuka honey, mentioned in Bee Products (September 2007), is a proven Staph killer. A teaspoon to a tablespoon of honey, fed to a dog twice a day, can help him fend off harmful bacteria. Colloidal silver is another disinfectant that has been proven to kill S. aureus. It can be applied externally to cuts and wounds, sprayed directly on a dogs coat (including the face, nose, and groin areas, where Staph bacteria tend to colonize), and taken internally.
For best results, use a product like Sovereign Silver, which contains very small silver particles in a base of pure water. For maintenance, give ¼ teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight between meals every other day. If your dog is exposed to MRSA or any other contagious illness, give the same dose three times per day. Larger doses (consult the manufacturer) can be used to treat active infection.
One of the easiest ways to keep your dog clean is with microfiber cleaning cloths. These rough-textured polyester-polyamide cloths were originally developed for clean room applications in the semi-conductor industry. Used wet or dry, they attract and trap dust, dander, loose hair, and other particles, even fleas and unattached ticks. Microfiber fabric does not disinfect, but it picks up and removes bacteria. The cloths can be washed in hot water (add a few drops of cinnamon or tea tree oil or a blend of disinfecting essential oils) and dried in a hot dryer to kill microorganisms. Dont use fabric softeners and dryer sheets when laundering microfiber cleaning cloths.
MRSA may be a frightening illness, but by following the simple prevention steps described here, you can help ensure that you and your dog enjoy an active, happy, MRSA-free life.
CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is co-director of the Hudson Valley Humane Society Visiting Pet Program in Rockland County, New York, and its annual Therapy Dog Camp. The organizations members include therapy dogs and other animals. See HudsonValleyVisitingPets.com for more information.
Walking with a dog in the dark can present a number of challenges for many dog owners. You may not be able to see well in the dark; this can make you take a hard step off a curb or trip on a rise in the sidewalk. Finding your dog’s poop at night (so you can pick it up and dispose of it properly) is also a problem.
Although definitely in the minority, some people walk their dogs off-leash at night. I’ve met a number of people at night who were walking off-leash dogs on the wide trail that tops the river levee that parallels my town’s main street. If I wasn’t a dog person, I would probably be unnerved by the fast approach of a strange dog in the dark. And as it is, if the dogs were mine, I’d be worried that one of them would wander off or get lost if I couldn’t keep sight of them.
The most potentially dangerous and most common problem with nighttime dog walking, though, is that other people – people driving cars, especially – can’t readily see you or your dog. Whether you are crossing a street, or just walking across a driveway “safely” on the sidewalk, if a driver can’t see you, you are at risk of being hit.
Products for Every Problem – But None for All Problems
We rounded up a wide array of products that are intended to make nighttime dog-walking brighter. However, we found that most of them addressed only one of the various night visibility issues.
For example, we found a number of collars, leashes, harnesses, bandannas, and vests that sported varying amounts of reflective material – the stuff that seems to shine brightly back at the source of the light. These products are matchless for helping a driver see you and your dog in his headlights, but they can’t help you see in the dark or help you or other lightless pedestrians see your dog.
We also found a lot of products that light up – including collars and leashes that twinkle, glow, and/or flash, and battery-operated lights that can be hung on a dog’s collar or harness. Many of these shine very impressively (and festively!) in the dark – but we found that their light is lost in the comparative glare of car headlights, making them suitable for some applications but not for safety from drivers.
For these reasons, you’ll want to choose a product that best suits your needs; we’ll describe what each product can and cannot do. If walking at night in the rain is your dog’s favorite thing to do, and the battery-powered light-up products tickle your fancy, consider the product’s ability to withstand moisture. We tested the products only once in the rain, and it was a light, brief shower. We’ve quoted the makers’ claims regarding the water-resistance of their products, but did not put these claims to a serious test. If no claim of “waterproof” or “water-resistant” is made for a battery-powered product, we wouldn’t use the product in even a light rain, due to the risk of shocking the dog. For the same reason, never leave a battery-powered product on or within reach of an unattended dog.
Purchasing Notes
Most of the products we reviewed were not made in the U.S. The only exceptions are products made by Glow Dog, Ultra Paws, and Sellwood Dog Supply.
Many of these companies sell directly to consumers as well as through retailers, so you might find their products in pet supply stores but can also purchase them from the maker. In a few cases, products we tested are not sold directly by their makers. The smart companies will direct you to an online or local retailer where you can buy their products. If this was the case, we included the maker’s contact information below.
Rarely, however, the maker neither sells the product directly nor provides consumers with the name of local or even online retailers where the products can be bought. Instead, they suggest that you “ask your local retailer for these products.” This was the case with one company whose products we liked: CMI Pets, maker of PetStrobe and Mini PetStrobe (pendant lights that hang from a dog collar).
We are loathe to include a glowing (sorry!) review of a product unless we can direct you to a specific place where the products can be purchased.
For this reason, you won’t see the products named above in our review, even though they had certain attributes we liked. For example, the PetStrobe lights made by CMI Pets, which contain four LEDs, can flash in different colors and at two different speeds (or just stay on) and are waterproof to boot. We can’t include them in this review since we can’t tell people where to buy them! Oh well, the metal clips were tiny and difficult to open and close anyway.
We tested about another half-dozen nighttime visibility products that didn’t meet our satisfaction; the wouldn’t have even earned one paw on our rating scale (on page 12). One light-up collar we rejected was weighted down with a cucumber-sized battery pack. One could plug the collar into a charger to recharge this large battery, which is a cool feature, but you’d have to overlook the fact that a dog wearing such a device could get a sore neck from the weight of the thing!
We rejected other products that contained blinking lights. Some turned off spontaneously, due to a faulty design or workmanship. Another contained batteries that could not be replaced. See the charts on page 15 and 16 for more details, including price and purchasing information, about each product we reviewed.
Every dog owner who helped us test this product asked if they could keep it after our trial was completed. There really isn’t any better testament to a product’s ease of use and usefulness. What we like: The PupLight hangs from a specially designed clip that helps hold the light away from the dog’s coat (in case of an especially shaggy dog) and allows the owner to change the angle of the beam of light to his or her preference. The clip can be strapped to the wide, adjustable, elastic collar provided by the manufacturer or to a regular flat collar. All of our testers liked using the light on the collar provided, so they could quickly pull it off over the dog’s head to use as a flashlight when needed, without turning the dog loose.
We really like the fact that the PupLight uses AAA batteries, so we can use environmentally friendly rechargeables. Single-use batteries are a major source of toxins in landfills and waste disposal incinerators.
In terms of sheer attractiveness at night, this product takes the cake. RuffWear used two strips of “electroluminescent wire” – one going down the length of each side of the coat – powered by two AAA batteries (and RuffWear encourages owners to use rechargeables, which we appreciate). The flexible wire is cool to the touch but glows with a light similar to that produced by neon, in a pretty shade of blue. Please note that the light does not provide the brightest light of the products here. The wire is stitched in place over a narrow strip of Scotchlite reflective material.
What we like: The vest makes it easy to see the dog in pitch black and in headlights. It can be set to blink on and off or stay lighted. If you remove the battery pack from its pocket in the back of the vest, you can hand-wash and line-dry the vest.
What we don’t like: It’s pricey compared to other products here. We wish the lighted and reflective strips were wider, for even greater visibility.
Visiglo makes three different types of battery-powered light-up collars and leashes. “Sport” models feature “pulsating electro-luminescence” – similar to the neon-looking strip of light used in RuffWear’s Lighted Lab Coat, but, um . . . pulsating. “Fashion” models are not quite as bright, but feature a flashing “electro-luminescent animation” with bones or pawprints. Brightest of all are the “LED” models – which utilize “cascading light-emitting diodes” – extremely small but extremely bright flashing lights.
What we like: If we were looking to make our dogs as stylish as possible in a low-light situation, or as highly visible as possible in a super-dark environment, we’d use Visiglo products. They are bright and frenetic. The lights in the “Sport” and “LED” models are visible from either side of the flat leashes (the lights on the “Fashion” models are visible from only one side of the leash). Each type of model is available in several colors and patterns.
What we don’t like: As someone who suffers migraine headaches, which are often aggravated by bright light, I could barely stand to test these products in an extremely dark environment; they are just too bright and frenetic, especially the models that use LED lights. In fact, their packages warn that they are not appropriate for use by people who suffer from photosensitive epilepsy! It seemed to me that the leashes even put off some of our more sensitive test dogs (the light of their own collars doesn’t shine right in their eyes, of course). They are less offensive in low-light (rather than pitch-black) situations. A “constant light” mode is not available.
As a minor point, I’m not crazy about the type of metal snaps used on the leashes, and I found the plastic clips used on the collars to be rather unwieldy. (This last feature is a necessary evil, since the snap also houses the collar’s batteries and on/off button. But it’s not like these products are meant to be any dog’s everyday collar or leash.) Finally, the Sport and Fashion models make tiny beeping noises when turned on – which went unnoticed by all but our most sensitive and noise-phobic test dog.
Dog e Lites makes a wide range of products featuring twinkling LED lights. Again, though these lights are tiny, they can be seen from a great distance in the dark, though their shine can be lost in low-light situations. Fortunately, Dog e Lites also includes a strip of reflective material on each collar, leash, and harness, to provide visibility in the glare of car headlights.
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What we like: We especially liked the step-in harness, which has reflective material on each strap, and lights across the front. We put this harness on a black dog to illustrate how much more visible it makes him at night.
What we don’t like: The lights and reflective material appear on only one side of the leash, which is also a little narrow, making it less comfortable in the hand.
The Beacon is the first of several pendant-style lights, meant for hanging on a dog’s collar or harness, that we tested. This type of light is meant to help the dog be seen, but doesn’t do anything to help a dog owner see where she is going.
The Beacon is a very sturdy, compact, bright light. It contains four LED lights inside a red plastic lens, and is made to fasten in any number of ways to a dog or dog handler. It comes equipped with a ring (for hanging like an ID tag on a dog’s collar ring) and a plastic clip, which can be used to clip the light onto the dog’s collar, harness, leash, or coat – or to his owner’s pocket or bait bag. The light can blink slowly or fast, or burn steadily.
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We gave this pendant-style light a slightly lower rating for a couple reasons. First, it’s more difficult to turn on and off; you have to press the button really hard sometimes to get it to work. This made us think, several times, that the batteries were dead. Also its metal clip is difficult to open and close.
On the plus side, it is available in red or white; we like the white light. When pressed into service as a miniature flashlight, it helps an owner see better than the red light. With its rounded shape, we suspect that this light is also more comfortable for the dog to wear, as it bobs against his chest as he moves. The light can blink or burn steadily.
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We tested five different Glow Dog reflective products: a vest (they call it a “jacket,” but it really provides only reflection, not warmth), a six-foot leash, a collar, a bandanna, and what Glow Dog calls a “Bunchie” – kind of a dog-neck-sized scrunchie. Each of these products is made with fabrics that have been completely covered with a “patented retro-reflective technology” the maker calls “Illuminite.” When a light shines on this material, the entire surface reflects brightly. All of the products show up extremely well, but the jacket provides an entire dog-shaped reflective silhouette that is instantly recognizable to a driver.
Once again, we found that our testers did not want to return these products – a great testimonial.
What we like: Glow Dog products are made with nice, light-weight but strong materials. They are available in several colors; all reflect at night in a bright white color. The maker also offers dozens of products for human use; see illuminite.com.
What we don’t like: There isn’t much to say here, except to note that the Glow Dog collar is for visibility only; it lacks a ring to clip a leash onto.
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Ultra Paws offers two perfectly nice reflective safety products for dogs: a lightweight vest and a medium-weight, fleece-lined coat. Each has two ¾-inch-wide strips of reflective material sewn to each side of the garment. The products provide more reflective material than many competitors we saw advertised, but not nearly as much as Glow Dog’s products.
We purposely photographed these products on a black dog to show how much more visible a dog is when wearing a reflective product when walking near cars at night.
There is nothing fancy about this reflective collar (see photo below), which is made by Sellwood Dog Supply as part of its made-in-the-USA Gold Paw Series. But there is nothing shoddy about it, either! And, in contrast to Glow Dog’s collar, it is made with a sturdy ring to fasten a leash to. It’s a well-made, attractive collar that reflects well at night, and could work well as a dog’s everyday collar, too.
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Reading Whole Dog Journal is one of the most frustrating experiences I have each month. Side-by-side with the outstanding training articles by Pat Miller and Editor Nancy Kerns’ excellent series on dog food and diet, you publish the most mind-numbing foolishness about alleged alternative healing and medicine. Your training as a journalist was seriously deficient if it didn’t teach you to investigate all such claims before your implicit endorsement by printing them.
For me the final straw was how you fell for the equivalent of a party trick, convincing you of the effectiveness of kinesiology, as related in your Editor’s Note in the November issue. That, plus the ridiculous comment by Wendy Volhard, “If you can accept Einstein’s theory that all matter has energy, sooner or later you will believe in kinesiology, too.” I challenge Ms. Volhard to site the reference for this ridiculous reduction of Einstein’s world-changing ideas, as well as the fairy tale logic that a therapy works, if only you believe in it.
In the 1980s thousands of people believed quartz crystals could cure diseases, including cancer. Why aren’t they used today at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center? Belief is the enemy of analysis. In science and medicine, you either have the data that supports your position or you do not.
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If people wish to waste their time and money on alt-med for themselves instead of pursuing evidence-based medicine, that’s their mistake (and it can be quite costly). Delaying proper medical treatment by pursuing the magical thinking of alternative and complementary medicine can seriously degrade the outcome when these therapies fail. I believe we owe it to our canine companions to rely on proven medical treatment by qualified doctors and technicians.
In support of my position I would encourage readers to explore Robert Todd Carroll’s Skeptic’s Dictionary site at skepdic.com; the Quackwatch site of Stephen Barrett, MD, at quackwatch.com; and the wonderful podcast, Quackcast, at quackcast.com.
Joe Pedoto
Stratford, CT
Thanks, Joe, for that view. I very much appreciate that you find some value in Whole Dog Journal’s training and nutrition articles, even if you are uninterested in (or aggravated by!) the information we publish about alternative and complementary healthcare.
I wouldn’t expect anyone to agree with or have a use for everything we discuss. Our goal is to provide readers with good information about as many healthcare options as possible. In our experience, informed owners, armed with a wide variety of healthcare tools – from conventional and unconventional medical schools – are best equipped to avoid wasting time and money on treatments that don’t work.
I have been reading Whole Dog Journal for the past year and have enjoyed it tremendously. It offers a nice balance of numerous subjects and approaches to those subjects that I find refreshing. I’m excited about your recent series on energy modalities and wanted to mention another one: Healing Touch for Animals (HTA; see healingtouchforanimals.com).
I used energy modalities in conjunction with conventional medicine for years but never thought about using energy modalities on animals (other than acupuncture by our vet). I enrolled in HTA and started the program to help my dogs, who suffered from allergies and other minor ailments. Not long after I started the program, both of my dogs were diagnosed with thrombocytopenia (the only common link was a rabies vaccine they had received). Simon was able to fight it on his own. However, Daisuki was critical. The vet explained we needed to start chemo and a bone marrow medication immediately. If Daisuki responded to the drugs, she would be on them for at least six to eight months.
By the end of the third week it became clear that she was not responding. She had a horrific reaction to the bone marrow medication, which resulted in six more drugs for the side effects. Also, her blood counts were not responding. The vet said he would give her one more week and if her red blood cells reduced by even 0.5 percent she would need an emergency transfusion, probably spleen removal, possibly bone marrow transplant, etc.
I told him about HTA the first week and he asked me not to do it because he didn’t know enough about it and didn’t want me stimulating her immune system while he was trying to destroy it with chemo. The third week I explained it would regulate her immune system so her body could start the healing process. He said to go ahead and try it; “Why not?” were his specific words at that time, since she wasn’t responding to the drugs.
I did four treatments on her that next week and two on Simon. We returned for their blood work the following week (week 4). Simon’s results were back in the normal range, which was understandable, since he was not that far out of range. However, every blood count on Daisuki was back in normal range – not just improved, but in range. We were all stunned.
My vet started weaning Daisuki off the drugs that day and she was completely done with all medications by the end of the second month. At this point I knew I wanted to get certified in HTA. I’m currently through the program and have about six months to go with my certification.
HTA is taught as a complementary method in conjunction with conventional care. The founder of HTA came from the veterinary world and realizes this is not a replacement for conventional medicine. It is an amazing modality.
Well, I’ll start off by admitting that there is no single perfect dog coat. Or, I should say, if there is a perfect coat, I haven’t seen it. Fortunately, there are plenty of very good coats that can suit most of any dog owner’s selection criteria.
We actually started our quest by looking for two different coat types: a super-warm coat, and a garment that would keep a dog dry in the hardest rainfall. We tried (but didn’t think it would be possible) to find a coat that provided extraordinary insulation and the ability to keep a dog dry (and we were right; we did not find such a coat).
When we started rounding up dog coats to test and review, we looked for products with the following features:
Ability to keep the dog warm, dry, or both.
Good, comfortable, secure fit. We looked for coats that stayed on the dog without constant adjusting and straightening, and that didn’t rub hairless or raw spots on the wearer’s shoulders or neck.
Easy to put on, take off, and adjust for fit. We wouldn’t promote a coat that requires instructions to put on the dog. Neither are we fans of coats that can’t be adjusted, or that offer only a very small range of adjustment.
Ability to survive laundering in good shape.
Quality of workmanship and materials. A good dog coat, like a good coat for humans, should be able to survive more than one winter!
Visual appeal. This is last on our list of requirements, but first (and seemingly the only criterion) on some manufacturers’ lists. There are an extraordinary number of cute, trendy, and even striking outfits available for dogs. Unfortunately, most of them just don’t meet the most important performance requirements (keeping the dog warm, dry, or both).
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After finding coats that appeared to meet our selection criteria, we ordered the products for testing. We used four different thin-coated dogs for testing: two Greyhounds (with very different measurements), an elderly German Shorthaired Pointer, and a senior Catahoula/Greyhound-mix.
Not all of the coats we tested are available in sizes to fit dogs of any and all sizes. All of our test dogs required medium to large sizes, which were readily available. Giant and tiny sizes are harder to find from every coat maker.
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Each manufacturer uses different criteria for determining the appropriately sized coat – weight, in some cases, and neck, girth, or back measurements in others – and we ordered coats with a specific test-dog recipient in mind. In some cases, though, the coats fit one of the other test dogs better than the intended recipient. Had we used just one dog to test the coats, we would have had to return some of the products and ask for a different size.
Don’t count on being able to return coats that you try on your dog and then return due to poor fit. Although none of the companies we ordered coats from told us this in advance, we found that many will not accept returns of products that have dog hair on them! It’s understandable, but regrettable. Before you place an order or hand over your plastic, ask about the seller’s return and replacement policy.
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Reality bites
As I mentioned, we didn’t find a perfect product. We found coats that were warm and exquisitely made, but which fit our test dogs poorly. We found coats that fit beautifully, but were not very warm. We found raincoats that kept dogs dry, but were a nightmare to put on and take off.
Although we like all the coats that we feature in the following pages, we appreciate them for different reasons. Your dog and his special needs will have to inform your choice, based on the features of each coat. Each is ideally suited for a different climate, purpose, and type of dog.
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Some fabrics will best protect a dog from a dry, windy cold; others are better suited for damp weather. Some coats were designed with active, exercising dogs in mind, with large “arm holes” that facilitate movement or a hole sewn in where the leash can attach to the collar without displacing the coat. Others are better suited to keeping a sedentary dog warm and may even discourage his full range of motion. Still others have large buckles that would be quite uncomfortable if a dog were to lie down while wearing the coat.
Finally, some designs are clearly intended for deep-chested, narrow-waisted dogs like our Greyhound testers. Others would better suit block-bodied dogs such as Golden Retrievers.
With these considerations in mind, take a look at the high-quality coats we did find. We’ll start with the coats intended for cold and mildly wet (but not super-rainy) weather, and look at the raincoats last.
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The two coats on this page came closer than any others to meeting all of our selection criteria. This coat’s biggest drawback? Its maker designed all their coats for long, narrow, deep-chested dogs like Greyhounds. Owners should lobby them to design for dogs of other shapes, because this coat offers some great features.
What we like: Its outer shell is waterproof, with a soft fleece inner layer; note, however, that the chest and neck section is fleece for maximum comfort (but this section is not waterproof). The turtleneck can be rolled down when it’s warm, or pulled over the dog’s ears in extremely cold weather. A leash opening is sewed in, and a reflective patch is sewn across the rump. The coat is easily put on and taken off the dog, and has a wide span of adjustment. Three Velcro straps fasten the coat on one side, with another, single band of Velcro on the other side to help keep the coat from slipping. The coat fits long dogs well and securely. We love it.
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What we like: Waterproof shell, an insulating middle layer, and thick, fleecy material inner layer. The dog’s chest is well covered. The front has large buttons, which are decorative but can be fastened and unfastened if your dog objects when you pull a coat over his head. The design suited our deep-chested Greyhounds as well as the blockier Catahoula-mix, and didn’t impair the dogs’ ability to move well and stride out. The collar can be folded up for slightly more warmth and protection, without getting in the way of the dog’s collar and a leash. The coat fastens with a large plastic snap/buckle, which rides on a wide strap that allows for a wide range of adjustment. Elastic loops are sewn on the inside of the back leg area, to help prevent the rear end of the coat from tipping off the dog to one side.
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A minor criticism: The elastic rear leg loops are narrow and easily stretched out.
The coat adjacent and the one to its right are very similar, even down to the companies’ website addresses. We like this coat a tad better.
What we like: Water-repellent shell, an insulating layer, and fleece inner layer. Fits all body shapes well. Rear end of coat has darts sewn in to make the coat wrap around the dog’s rump nicely. Front fastens with Velcro and a buckle. Wide range of adjustment. Free repairs for a lifetime.
What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Drip dry only.
These two coats (above and above right) are comparable in terms of their features, too. We like this one a little more. Both are made with fleece, pull over the dog’s head, and are intended to keep the dog toasty in cold but not windy or wet weather.
What we like: This coat is lined with a smooth Lycra Spandex layer. Fastens with a wide swath of Velcro on both sides, resulting in a large range of adjustment. The dog’s chest is well-covered. Back leg straps keep coat from slipping to one side.
As you can see, this coat just isn’t designed or sewn to fit the dog as nicely as the previous coat.
What we like: Water- and wind-resistant nylon shell, Polartec insulating layer, and fleece inner layer. Fits all body shapes. Wide range of adjustment.
What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Large plastic buckles would be uncomfortable for a sleeping dog. Front closes with Velcro only.
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What we like: Elegant cut, nice fit. You can’t tell from this photos, but the dog’s chest is covered by a section that goes between the dog’s front legs. High turtleneck can fold down. Fastens with a single strap that has a wide range of adjustment; fits all body types well.
What we don’t like: For ultra-cold weather (our goal for this review), this coat is a little light. For mild winters, it would be perfect.
This is a really unique product, unlike any seen elsewhere. It’s meant to work kind of like a lightweight, breathable wetsuit, fitting close to the dog’s skin and trapping core heat, even if the dog and the coat get wet. Consider it as a light, comfortable, no-slip insulating layer for a very active dog.
What we like: Dog’s belly and tummy are well-covered. Reflective stripe sewn along each side.
What we don’t like: No adjustment; you have to get the right size. Fastens with a zipper along one side.
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These two (above and above right) are the only two non-insulating raincoats we tested. Again, this maker designed all its coats for long, narrow, deep-chested dogs like Greyhounds.
What we like: Coat is completely lined with a lightweight mesh material. A leash opening is sewed in, and a reflective patch is sewn across the rump. Attached hood, pleated front, and fitted sides and rump help water run off your dog! Hood can be folded back if preferred. The coat is easily put on and taken off, and has a wide span of adjustment. Two Velcro straps fasten the coat, one on either side; strap position allows for easy movement.
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What we like: Waterproof shell with a seamless fleece inner layer. Very well-made in Canada. Reflective piping on every seam. Nice fit on our block-shaped test dog; did not shift or rub.
What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Range of adjustment is not wide. Only Velcro fasteners in front and belly.
What we like: Detachable hood (with Velcro). Coat covers chest and tummy well, and can be tucked up close to the body with an elastic drawstring just behind the dog’s ribcage. Covers dog’s front legs, too. Comparatively inexpensive.
What we don’t like: Fastens with long Velcro strip down spine, which can be difficult to fasten on a wiggly dog and leaks water in a driving rain. Dog’s front legs must be threaded through sleeves.
This issue represents the end of our tenth year of publication; I can barely believe it. Time has flown by.
When Whole Dog Journal was new, many trainers (much less dog owners) were just beginning to learn about positive training. Thanks to guidance from trainer (and monthly contributor) Pat Miller, who was an early adopter of these methods, Whole Dog Journal burst from the publishing gate as an avid and informed proponent of the most effective dog-friendly training techniques.
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Fortunately for our dogs, these popular methods have become common. Today, its a bigger challenge to detect and avoid the trainers who use new-age, positive descriptions of their old-fashioned, force-based methods. As always, we encourage you to seek out and support the training professionals who are experts in animal behavior and learning. Thats because its our ongoing mission to educate our readers about the easiest and fastest ways to teach their canine companions to behave well, while preserving and protecting their loving, trusting bonds.
Holistic veterinary medicine is more popular than it was a decade ago, too. However, its still an ongoing challenge for owners in many parts of the country to find competent practitioners of complementary and alternative modalities. Our goal here is to offer concrete, complete, and concise information about alternative and complementary therapies so that owners can put it to immediate use to benefit their dogs.
Nutrition is an area of special interest to Whole Dog Journal, and to many dog owners. Weve offered annual reviews of dry and wet foods since Whole Dog Journals inception, with less-frequent reviews of raw frozen diets and treats. We plan to increase the frequency of our reviews of less-conventional diets, treats, and chews.
Weve also offered frequent analysis of breaking news about the pet food industry, and documented many changes in this market; when we began publishing, there was but a handful of super-premium dog foods on the market, and none that included organic or other verifiably top-shelf ingredients. We like to think our scrutiny and promotion of this sector of the market has contributed to its spectacular growth; today, there are hundreds of truly top-quality foods to choose from, and terrific, healthy products being introduced daily. We look forward to continuing to introduce these products to our readers.
Many dog-care and -training products have also been reviewed in Whole Dog Journal over the past decade, including a number of innovative products we cant imagine living without today, such as the Buddy Bowl (a no-spill water bowl), head halters and front-clip harnesses, any number of dog ID products, and top-quality dog beds. Its time-consuming to track down and test products, but its also one of the most rewarding things we do!
Thanks so much for your support throughout these past 10 years! I look forward to bringing you much more in-depth and high-quality dog-care information in the next decade.
“All right!” I shout and we take off down the trail. The dogs’ heads are down and they are kicking up snow as they lean into their harnesses, pulling hard and running fast. On the other end of the leash, behind them, I begin skate-skiing, using my poles for stability and doing my best to create more speed. Through the woods, down hills, around corners, we fly. We are out skijoring on a blustery, cold, Montana winter day, under grey skies and on slick, fast snow. The day is filled with whoops, hollers, laughter, hot cocoa for me, and jerky for the dogs. By the end of the day, we all pile into the truck, exhausted, and oh-so-happy.
When the weather outside gets frightful and the snow begins to fly, getting out in it with your dog can be delightful. From winter sports such as skijoring, kicksledding, and mushing to mellower activities like snowshoeing or even a casual stroll, there is no need for you and your dog to be cooped up indoors all winter. With some knowledge, a bit of training, and the right gear, winter is easily transformed into an exciting time of year.
Winter Dog Sports
Most people have heard of mushing, but say “skijor” or “kicksled” and chances are you will get a blank stare. That is, unless you’re speaking with someone from a Northern European country or Alaska, where dogs were historically, and in some cases still are, used in everyday life for survival in harsh climates.
Literally meaning “ski-driving” in Norwegian, skijoring originated in Scandinavia and is a hybrid sport combining cross-country skiing and dog mushing. Perfect for the equipment minimalist, skijoring requires cross-country ski gear, a skijoring belt, a harness for your dog, and a towline to connect you to your dog.
Nordic breeds and multiple dogs are not required; any dog that loves to run can participate. Dogs weighing over 30 pounds with enough height to negotiate running in snow can skijor with ease and a single dog is all that is necessary. A thin coat does not eliminate a dog from the sport either; some of the top competing skijor teams include German Shorthaired Pointers (often donning outerwear, of course). An exhilarating sport, skijoring allows you and your dog to exercise together while enjoying the winter landscape.
First developed more than 150 years ago, kicksleds are prevalent today in small towns throughout Finland, Norway, and Sweden, and are used to get around slick side streets. Operating like a scooter, kicksleds glide swiftly on ice or compacted snow. Your dog is easily attached to a kicksled with a harness and towline for increased speed and great exercise. This sport is also less physically demanding for the driver.
Best for flat, icy surfaces, kicksleds don’t do well in deep, soft snow, or on steep terrain, so if hills are on your planned route, you’ll need to wear some good cleats or crampons, because the sleds have no brakes beyond foot dragging. Steering the kicksled is simple; you just twist the handlebars in the direction you want to go. Be aware, though, that your control is limited; your dog must respond to your voice commands for safety’s sake. The next time the streets are snow packed and you need to drop off last night’s movie at your neighborhood store, imagine grabbing your dog, your kicksled, and heading outside!
If you are looking for more adventure than can be had from scooting around the streets with your dog, and being pulled behind a team in the wilderness sounds more appealing, perhaps it’s time to give mushing a try. A team of 20 dogs averaging 75 pounds can exceed 20 miles an hour (or more on shorter sprints) and is capable of maintaining an average speed of 10 miles an hour.
In January 1925, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become a fatal epidemic in Nome, Alaska, prompting the recruitment of 20 drivers and 100 dogs to deliver a package of antitoxin serum from Anchorage to Nome. Due to temperatures averaging 50° below 0°, planes were ruled out for the expedition, but mushers made a heroic effort, with a relay of teams delivering the serum to Nome in less than five and a half days, ultimately saving the town. The 1,150-mile Iditarod race was created to commemorate that feat.
Mushing with your current team of dogs, which is perhaps smaller than 20, will require the most preparation of all the canine winter sports; mushing requires a great deal of equipment and know-how to get started. Fortunately, there are numerous books, websites, and magazines available to assist the beginning musher in locating the right equipment, supplies, and training materials.
Snowshoeing with your dog is an easier activity to enjoy on the slower end of the winter season spectrum. Picking up a pair of snowshoes can make an outing on a favorite trail or around your local park easier and more fun during the snowy months. Doing so with a belt, harness, and towline, connecting you to your dog, will increase your ability to negotiate the terrain and with greater speed. Aside from making sure that both you and your dog are physically fit to begin, snowshoeing requires no extra training time, very little equipment, and allows you and your dog to get a great workout. Many people progress from casual walks on snowshoes, to faster hikes, to snowshoe runs with their dogs over the course of a single season.
Preparing for Winter Outings with Dogs
As with any athletic pursuit, the key to preparing a dog for winter sports is to start out slowly, preventing injury and/or burnout. There are any number of training programs available (in books and DVDs) that offer guidance on building your dog’s strength and endurance. It particularly helps if you start teaching your dog to be comfortable with being attached to you and pulling a bit of weight before the ground gets slippery with ice or snow! Training should be positive, encouraging any desired behavior that your canine partner offers, since you and your dog work together as a team in most winter sports. The prerequisites, however, include teaching your dog to “gee” (turn right), “haw” (turn left), and “whoa” (that’s obvious!).
Once your dog has learned cues for turning and slowing, and is comfortable with pulling as a canine-human team, you can start working on physical conditioning. Vary your pace, following a fast workout with a slow fun run. Or do a long distance run followed by shorter, faster outings.
Vary training areas as well to reinforce your verbal cues, since dogs often tire of the same trail and come to anticipate turns. If you use the same trail every time you go out, start in the middle, run it backward, or stop in a different spot every time and reverse direction. Once your dog anticipates a turn and he “haws,” for instance, without your cue to do so, it’s time to change your route. Plus, taking a different route keeps training more mentally stimulating for both you and your dog.
Putting on miles is important, but so is rest. Spending quality time together without physical or mental requirements can go a long way in improving enthusiasm for a sport, while maintaining a close bond. Always keep an eye on your dog’s movement, and stop if he shows any sign of lameness, injury, or reluctance to go. Also monitor his joints (for range of motion and swelling) and appetite. If his attitude or aptitude ever begins to wane, take him to your veterinarian for a thorough health examination.
When asking your dog to perform at a more demanding physical level, a high quality diet is incredibly important. All athletes need more calories when in training and competition, especially in cold conditions, and your dog is no exception. Increasing the amount of calories and fat in the diet will probably be required; discuss specifics with your veterinarian to maintain the long-term health of your canine athlete. Making sure that your dog is adequately hydrated is just as important. Snow is not a sufficient substitute for water; bringing a supply of water along with you on your outings is a necessity.
Gear for Winter Dog Activities
While training is important for your dog, so, too, is finding the right gear to safely and comfortably enjoy the outdoors in winter. Snow between your dog’s foot pads can cause frostbite and lameness, and crusted snow and ice can easily cut his feet. Trim the excess hair from the footpads and toes of longhaired dogs; this will make it easier to remove ice and snow.
Better yet, use booties for the best foot protection. Don’t be disappointed if your dog high-steps around in protest when you put them on; most dogs resist booties at first, but they typically quickly desensitize to the footwear when a fun outing is on the horizon. A variety of windproof and waterproof coats for your dog are available on the market and worth looking into if your dog has a very short coat, doesn’t do well in cold temperatures, or you plan on making frequent stops during your outing.
Rather than your local pet supply store, look for active canine winter gear on skijoring or mushing websites, or in magazines and catalogs. I recommend shopping at outlets that specialize in equipment for human-canine athletic teams who participate in winter sports. Their equipment is usually field-tested in severe conditions – a good testimony to the durability and function of the products.
Due to the fringe nature of most of these sports, most companies that sell such specialized equipment are small businesses owned and operated by enthusiasts of these sports; these folks tend to welcome interest in the products they offer and will be incredibly helpful in guiding you to what you need. A few good sites to explore include:
Exercising out-of-doors in the winter can pose certain risks. Keep your dog and yourself safe by observing common sense, cold-weather guidelines:
■ Dogs, like people, are susceptible to hypothermia. Hypothermic animals should be warmed slowly. You can wrap a hypothermic dog in warm blankets or place towel-wrapped bottles filled with warm water next to his armpit and groin.
■ Watch for frostbite, especially in vulnerable areas such as ears, paw pads, tail, and groin. Signs include flushed and reddened tissues, white or grayish tissues, scaliness and possible shedding of dead skin, and evidence of shock.
■ Add heat packs and an emergency blanket to your first-aid kid.
■ Make sure your dog is wearing proper ID and/or a microchip identifier in case he gets separated from you on the trail.
■ Use caution if you and your dog are around frozen creeks, rivers, lakes, or streams. Staying dry is vital in extremely cold weather.
■ After your return home from a stroll on frozen city streets and sidewalks, rinse your dog’s paw pads to remove salt and any other de-icing agents that he may have encountered. You may also choose to apply a salve prior to and after your outing to protect against these substances, but keep in mind that it must be non-toxic and consumable, because chances are high it will be licked off.
No Dog Left Inside
Whatever winter activity you choose, before you head out, make sure that the destination area of your choice welcomes dogs. Be respectful of other users and wildlife, keeping your dog under physical or voice control at all times. This prevents conflict with other dogs and recreationists, while protecting wildlife, who have little reserve in winter for the added stress of being chased.
Whether you swoosh down the trail with your dog pulling ahead, or head out on your city street for a casual stroll, winter truly is a wonderful time of year for both you and your dog.
OUTDOOR WINTER ACTIVITIES FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW
1. If you live in a snow zone, try a snow-based recreational activity with your dog!
2. Contact other canine winter sport enthusiasts and ask to tag along on their outings. Most people are eager to share their knowledge and even gear with enthusiastic newcomers.
3. Use caution when you and your dogs are around frozen creeks or lakes. Staying dry is vital in extremely cold weather.
Kathryn Socie-Dunning is a freelance writer in Missoula, Montana. When she is not writing, she is out on the trail hiking, running, and when the snow is flying, skijoring with her dogs.
1. Make a commitment to continue providing your aging dog with learning and training opportunities as long as he can enjoy them.
2. Be realistic in your expectations about what your senior dog can learn. Don’t ask him to perform beyond his physical capabilities.
3. Consult with your veterinarian if you see signs of canine cognitive disorder (mental aging) in your dog.
You’ve no doubt heard the adage, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” If you have an older dog, you’ll be relieved to know that for the most part it’s false. Older dogs are perfectly capable of learning. The oldest dog ever to enroll in one of my training classes was an 11-year-old Labrador Retriever, and she performed admirably. Positive trainers like to say “it’s all tricks.” Any new behaviors your senior dog can learn count as new tricks, even if he’s no longer jumping through hoops.
There are a number of factors that influence how much and what your mature canine pal can learn, including:
1. Your dog’s training and behavior history.
If your dog has learned how to enjoy learning and is engaged in an ongoing training program, he will continue to learn easily. Studies show that humans who continue to exercise their brains stay more mentally alert than those who do not. We have every reason to believe the same is true of dogs.
2. Physical conditions that limit his mobility.
It seems obvious but we’ll say it anyway: If your dog has physical limitations, he may not be able to perform new behaviors that require physical exertion. Joint or muscle pain, arthritis, hip dysplasia, obesity, and heart problems are some of the more common physical conditions that can interfere with your elder dog’s willingness to try some new “tricks.” Also, get an okay from your veterinarian before enrolling your senior dog in a physically vigorous training program.
3. Your skill as a trainer and commitment to your dog’s training program.
They can’t do it on their own. The better you are at communicating to your dog – reinforcing appropriately and in a timely manner for desired behaviors – the easier it is for him to learn new behaviors at any age. The more consistent you are about working regularly with your dog, the easier it is for him to learn, no matter how much grey hair he has.
4. What you are trying to teach him.
If your goal is to change behaviors that your dog has been practicing successfully (getting reinforced for) for a decade, your challenge will be greater than if you’re simply teaching new behaviors. Changing long-held classically conditioned (emotional) responses is likely to be more challenging than teaching new operantly conditioned responses, where the dog deliberately chooses behaviors in anticipation of reinforcement.
5. What methods you have used – and are using – to teach him.
There is overwhelming anecdotal evidence that dogs trained with positive methods are quite willing to keep on learning – while those trained with physical and/or verbal punishment are more likely to shut down and less willing to offer new behaviors. If you want your dog to be an eager participant in the learning process well into his sunset years, be sure to stick with a positive training program.
6. Mental conditions that limit his cognitive abilities.
Canine cognitive disorder, sometimes referred to as “Doggie Alzheimer’s” is a very real phenomenon. Clinical signs include those changes owners often refer to as “senility” such as: disorientation, “acting old,” increased sleep (especially during the day), altered interactions with family members, loss of housetraining, decreased ability to recognize familiar people and surroundings, decreased hearing, restlessness, decreased desire to perform favorite tasks (such as walking), standing in the corner, and barking aimlessly at inanimate objects.
Canine cognitive disorder can significantly limit a dog’s ability to learn, although there is a medication approved for this condition (Anapril) that can often alleviate symptoms.
Who Counts as a Senior Dog?
The point at which a dog qualifies as “aged” varies. Maria M. Glowaski, DVM, of the Ohio State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital, published these guidelines for defining a senior dog: “Veterinarians generally consider small dogs to be senior citizens at about 12 years of age, while large dogs reach the senior stage at 6 to 8 years of age. This roughly corresponds to the 55-plus category in people.”
The larger your dog, the earlier he is likely to show physical signs of aging, with small dogs (under 20 pounds) often not showing obvious signs of age until they are over 12; medium-sized dogs (20-80 pounds) at around age 10; and large dogs as early as age 8.
Less-well documented are signs of mental aging. The Sydney (Australia) University Veterinary Faculty, in conjunction with New South Wales University’s School of Psychiatry, is currently conducting a PhD research project into aging and mental decline in older dogs. Until we have the results of this study and others like it, we must settle for anecdotal evidence regarding our senior dogs’ mental capacity. The good news is that
anecdotes tell us that barring serious mental deterioration, dogs are ready and willing to learn at almost any age, even if their learning at some point must be restricted to games that can be played lying down.
The Miller’s Senior Dogs
My husband and I currently have three dogs in our pack that could be qualified as seniors. Their mental and physical abilities and the adaptations we have had to make to train and manage them are classically representative of most older dogs.
Dubhy is the youngest of our seniors. At age seven, the 25-pound Scottish Terrier barely qualifies as aged, although he has long had a generally calm, reserved demeanor – and grey hair in his coat – which causes people (including our veterinarian) to perceive him as older than he is.
Dubhy has been trained with positive (clicker) methods since we first found him as a six-month-old adolescent stray and took him to our house until we could find him a home (hah). He loves to train, and his trick repertoire includes such delightful behaviors as pushing a toy grocery cart, saying his prayers, rolling himself up in a blanket, and sitting upright in a chair to play his electronic keyboard.
Although I tend to let his training slide in favor of the younger, rowdier members of the Miller pack, I recently picked up Dubhy’s clicker and leash – to his delight – and started teaching him a couple of new tricks: “Superdog” and “Put Away Your Toys.”
Not surprisingly, he learned new behaviors as quickly at age seven as he did when he was a young’un. In just three sessions he added “Superdog” to the list of tricks he can perform on cue – lying on the floor with his hind legs stretched out straight behind him (dubbed “Superdog” because I envision him wearing a cape with wires to make it “fly” out behind him, and photoshopping his image onto a blue sky). This was an easy behavior for him, as he tends to assume this position on his own. It was simply a matter of capturing it with the clicker and reinforcing it with high value treats until he began offering the behavior in hopes of earning reinforcement. Ah, the joy of a clicker-trained dog!
Putting his toys away was a tad more challenging, as he’s not a natural retriever. But he was fascinated by the “Cuz” dog toy (a rubber squeaky ball with feet), and it took just a week of focused work to get him to pick it up and drop it in the basket. I shaped this behavior by holding the toy over the center of a wicker basket, encouraging him to mouth the toy. I clicked every time he mouthed the toy over the center of the basket; when I clicked, he’d let the toy drop into the wicker receptacle, in anticipation of getting a treat.
When Dubhy could do that easily and consistently, I gradually moved the toy toward the edge of the basket, only clicking if it dropped into the basket when he let it go. As he grasped the concept of moving it back toward the center of the basket I made it more challenging for him by holding the Cuz further from the basket, and eventually lowering it to the ground so he had to pick it up and bring it back to the toy basket.
Our next task is to generalize the behavior to all his toys. I expect Dubhy to be an active training partner for many years to come.
Missy is the newest addition to the Miller family, but at age eight, the red merle Australian Shepherd easily qualifies as a senior, at least physically. Radiographs taken by our vet just today pinpoint an old injury/fracture to her right hip as the explanation for hind-end weakness and some minor lameness that we’ve noted in the month we’ve had her. An apparent lifetime of itchiness and chewing has worn her lower incisors down to the gums. Combined with a dull, lifeless coat, probably from a less-than-optimum diet, these conditions all make her look and act even older than she is.
Missy is well housetrained, but seems to not have had much else asked of her. She sits occasionally when cued, but not consistently. She bonded to me like superglue in less than 24 hours, giving rise to some minor isolation distress issues (and making “come when called” a non-issue), and is markedly slower to learn new behaviors than our younger dogs, who all have a history of positive reinforcement training.
Unlike our other dogs, Missy has been slow to grasp the novel (to her) concept that her behavior can make good things happen. Interestingly, since she’s a mature girl, I find myself expecting her to respond to cues that I know she doesn’t know. I am constantly reminding myself that she is like a puppy in terms of learning; I have to teach her what all the cues mean.
She’s also made me aware that I use the “Wait” cue more than any other with our pack (see “Training Your Dog to Stay Using Cues“). I routinely use it on the stairs, at doors, in the barn, in the car, and at mealtimes. I use it to manage the pack, asking some of our dogs to wait at the door, while inviting others to walk through.
While Bonnie, our youngest, learned to wait for her food bowl with just a few lessons when she came to us at age six months, it took Missy a full two weeks to understand why the food bowl went away every time she got up to eat, why the door kept closing when she stood up, and why the rest of the dogs paused on the stair landing and didn’t continue down until I reached the bottom of the stairway and invited them.
She’s mentally sharp enough, and is learning the basic cues (sit and down) – much more slowly than a new pup whose educational level would be similar to hers. Although to be fair, not totally similar, since part of Missy’s slowness may be due to a history of being punished for offering behaviors, making her slower to try new things than a “blank slate” puppy would be.
We’ll have to limit Missy’s high-activity physical “new tricks” because of her aforementioned medical condition, but look forward to her continuing progress with basic good manners cues and other low impact “tricks.” With patience, I’m confident we can help her understand how much fun learning can be.
Katie was the matriarch of the Miller pack, until just a month ago when she had aged to the point that we painfully decided it was time to let her go. At age 15, suffering from advancing arthritis, she was clearly limited in her activities. I no longer asked her to “Sit” and “Wait” for her dinner, and no longer expected her to fold her aging bones to the floor in response to a “Down” cue. She pretty much could do whatever she wanted, which was mostly sleep on her magnetic bed and bark as the more active dogs chased Frisbees in the backyard.
However, Katie still had some lessons to learn in the last year of her life. Her “new tricks” consisted in large part of classical conditioning to convince her to allow me to help her negotiate stairs that she could no longer manage on her own.
At one time comfortable with all the normal handling and grooming, Katie had grown irritable about being touched and handled as she aged and became more arthritic. She reached a point where she wouldn’t hesitate to snap if she thought you were about to do something, like reach for her collar, that might cause her pain.
We took management steps, eventually allowing her to sleep downstairs – which she seemed not to mind – rather than urge her to climb the stairs to our bedroom on the second floor. However, nails needed occasional trimming, I had to brush her shedding coat at least once in a while, and when she could no longer even climb the three steps up to our porch from the backyard, it was imperative that she accept my physical assistance.
So we counter-conditioned. Throughout the day I reached for her collar, fed her a treat. Reached for her collar, fed her a treat. Touched a paw, fed her a treat. Touched her with the brush, fed her a treat. Reached for her collar, fed her a treat, and helped her up the stairs. Took a stroke with the brush, fed her a treat. Clipped a nail, fed her a treat. All very carefully, to avoid causing her any more discomfort than necessary.
Katie also learned a new recall (come) cue in the last months of her life. She had become almost totally deaf in her last year, and could no longer hear me call her in from the backyard. She tended to go out of sight around the corner of the garage to sleep in her favorite sunspot, which mandated that I trudge across the yard to fetch her in. Not an insurmountable task, but still . . .
My husband purchased a Storm Whistle – so shrill I had to plug my ears when I blew it – and it took only a few repeated associations between whistle and treats for Katie to learn to come galloping when she heard it. Another new trick! Knowing we had an effective way to call her also eased my mind about her possibly wandering off, as senior dogs sometimes do. Fortunately, Katie was quite food motivated to her very last days, and her ability to learn new associations – new tricks – even as a very senior dog, extended her life and her quality of life for many months longer than we had anticipated.
Most positively trained dogs are highly reinforced by the opportunity to learn. Taking this opportunity away from them in their senior years can be an unintended cruelty. Training keeps their minds and bodies active, and enriches their lives, even as other opportunities for enrichment diminish with advancing age and frailty. Training and learning with you should be one of your dog’s greatest joys in life – one that he can enjoy to the very end of his days.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and, Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.
Two dogs have itchy skin and small open sores on their legs. Or they both have a fever or a trauma injury or infected ears.
One goes to a conventional veterinarian and receives antibiotics, steroids, or other symptom-suppressing drugs.
The other goes to a veterinary homeopath, who studies the dog’s symptoms and asks all kinds of questions about his behavior and actions while looking things up in a book or computer. The homeopath selects a remedy, gives the dog a single dose, and instructs the owner to wait, watch, and report back.
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The remedy is chosen not because it reduces or eliminates the dog’s symptoms but because by itself, when given to a healthy patient, it actually produces those same symptoms. And the remedy is so dilute that it contains not a single molecule of the substance on the label.
Welcome to the world of homeopathy, one of the most interesting and controversial alternative therapies and forms of “energy medicine.” Does it work? Is it a fraud? Is it safe? Are you and your dog good candidates for this approach to healing?
“Like cures like”
Homeopathy was developed in the early 1800s by Samuel Hahnemann, a German physician. He wrote, “If a medicine administered to a healthy person causes a certain syndrome of symptoms, that medicine will cure a sick person who presents similar symptoms.”
Dr. Hahnemann discovered this principle when he experimented with quinine from the bark of the Peruvian cinchona tree, which was widely used to treat malaria. Dr. Hahnemann, who did not have malaria, was startled when he developed malaria symptoms each time he took quinine. He then experimented with different medications that he administered to himself and healthy volunteers, documenting their responses.
Because several of the preparations were toxic, Dr. Hahnemann tried to reduce adverse effects by giving the drugs in very small doses, but in many cases, this made the reactions worse. Diluting the preparations in stages, he found, maintained their effect while eliminating their toxicity. In fact, he discovered that a greater dilution coupled with agitation of the mixture (his first solutions were jostled as he traveled in a horse-drawn carriage) seemed to enhance the medicine’s effect.
Homeopathic remedies are made from vegetable, mineral, and animal sources. With each step, the substance is diluted by a factor of 10 or 100, and the mixture is subjected to a series of “succussions,” shakes, or poundings. In Dr. Hahnemann’s day, this work was all done by hand. Today it is partly mechanized.
Homeopathic remedies are generally made into tiny round pills, tablets, or granules, or presented as liquid remedies in dropper bottles.
Potent differences
The potency of homeopathic medicines is measured according to the number of dilutions and successions they have undergone. The centesimal scale, which is commonly used in the United States, measures dilution by 100 and uses the abbreviation “c.” One drop of the original or “mother” tincture diluted in 99 drops of water is a 1c preparation (1 in 100). One drop of 1c solution in 99 drops of water is a 2c preparation (1 in 10,000). One drop of 2c solution in 99 drops of water is a 3c preparation (1 in 1,000,000); and so on.
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The decimal scale measures dilution by 10 and uses the abbreviation “x.”
While the most common potencies (6x, 3c, 6c, 12c, and 30c) are available over the counter in homeopathic pharmacies, health food stores, drugstores, mail order catalogs, and online, higher potencies are reserved for professional use. Very high homeopathic potencies, such as 1M strength (1M equals 1,000c), are considered the most powerful and usually require a written prescription.
The alleged strength of extremely dilute solutions is one of the paradoxes of homeopathic medicine. Critics argue that a solution so dilute that it contains no chemically measurable trace of the ingredient on the label can’t have an effect on anything and that homeopathy must be a hoax, or its cures are caused by the placebo effect, or its satisfied patients are under the spell of a mass delusion. Homeopathy’s basic premise simply doesn’t make sense to Western physicians.
But it does make sense to many biophysicists and other research scientists.
Medical journalist Lynne McTaggart is author of The Field: The Quest for the Secret Force of the Universe, a review of recent scientific investigations of energy. She learned that conservative medical researchers studying the behavior of water had, without realizing it, discovered that homeopathy’s underlying premise that dilution increases a solution’s strength is not science fiction but a fact of nature.
In studies conducted between 1985 and 1989, Dr. Jacques Benveniste, a French physician and allergy researcher who knew nothing about homeopathy, repeatedly found that when antibodies (anti-IgE molecules) were diluted in water, the resulting solutions inhibited dye absorption just as full-strength solutions did, even when there was no possibility of a single molecule of the original substance in the solution.
Although the potency of the anti-IgE molecules was at its highest in early stage dilutions and then fell through successive dilutions, the experiment’s results changed abruptly at the ninth dilution. From then on, the IgE’s effects increased with each dilution. “As homeopathy had always claimed,” McTaggart writes, “the weaker the solution, the more powerful its effect.”
Dr. Benveniste and his staff then worked with five different laboratories in France, Israel, Italy, and Canada, all of which replicated his results. The 13 scientists who conducted the experiments jointly published the results of their four-year collaboration in a 1988 edition of Nature, a prestigious scientific journal. Their article described how when solutions of antibodies were repeatedly diluted until they no longer contained a single molecule of the antibody, they still produced a response from immune cells.
The authors concluded that none of the original molecules were present in certain dilutions and that “specific information must have been transmitted during the dilution/shaking process. Water could act as a template for the molecule, for example, by an infinite hydrogen-bonded network, or electric and magnetic fields…. The precise nature of this phenomenon remains unexplained.”
The editor of Nature found this so incredible that he appended an editorial questioning the results. There followed a firestorm of controversy, including investigations by a scientific “fraud squad” led by a professional magician (not by scientists familiar with the research methods) who accused Dr. Benveniste and his fellow researchers of not following scientific protocols and concluded that their findings were without merit. But in the 20 years since the article’s publication, research at laboratories around the world has only confirmed its original findings.
Practically no one today knows that in the 19th century, homeopathy was widely practiced in the U.S. and Canada and that it was in fact the preferred system of medicine, being more effective and far safer than the techniques and drugs used by allopathic physicians. During yellow fever and cholera epidemics, patients treated by homeopaths had much higher survival rates than those treated allopathically.
When allopathic physicians gained a medical monopoly, homeopathy’s popularity in North America declined, but it remains mainstream medicine in India, Europe, and other parts of the world. Meanwhile, in the U.S. and Canada, homeopathy is being rediscovered. About 200 veterinary homeopaths are listed at the websites of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association and the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy.
Members of the Academy are trained in Dr. Hahnemann’s methods, called “classical” homeopathy. In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given alone, not in combination with other remedies, and it is usually given once, not repeatedly. Remedies are selected according to the patient’s unique symptoms, not his or her disease, which is why two puppies with kennel cough could be treated with entirely different remedies.
Even the word “symptom” has special meaning in homeopathy. You might think that kennel cough is kennel cough, but to a classically trained homeopath, the symptoms that matter include whether your dog wants attention or avoids it, prefers to lie on her right or left side, or seeks warm or cool surfaces. Classical homeopaths train their clients to observe and document all changes in behavior, even those that ordinarily seem insignificant.
Homeopathy in action
Judith Herman, DVM, practiced conventional veterinary medicine in Augusta, Maine, for 15 years until, in the early 1990s, she watched a horse die from a vaccine reaction. Alternatives to by-the-book conventional care suddenly seemed more interesting. At about the same time, two of her canine patients responded well to homeopathic remedies and their owners suggested she look into the subject.
Dr. Herman joined a homeopathic study group and liked what she found. “It made sense,” she says, “and most importantly, it worked.” In 1993, she enrolled in the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy and studied with its founder, Richard Pitcairn, DVM, PhD. Today her practice focuses almost exclusively on homeopathy, and she heads the AVH certification committee.
The most common conditions Dr. Herman treats include fevers, urinary tract infections, whelping problems, irritable bowel disease, pancreatitis, ACL (anterior cruciate ligament) injuries, kennel cough, chronic skin diseases such as sarcoptic mange, autoimmune disorders, and cancers.
Sometimes the results are immediate and dramatic. This summer, Dr. Herman’s veterinary technician raced to the clinic with her puppy and the toxic brown mushroom the puppy had just bitten. “The puppy had excruciating cramps, projectile vomiting, and diarrhea,” she says. “This type of poisoning usually requires hospitalization, but within 10 to 15 minutes of being dosed with homeopathic arsenicum, which was the remedy that best matched her symptoms, she was fine and needed no other treatment.”
Even a dog hit by a car and suffering multiple factures can be treated with homeopathy. In that situation, Dr. Herman gives a remedy to help with the immediate problem, then sets the bones or sends the dog to another veterinarian for treatment, and follows up with a remedy that speeds healing. “If a dog undergoes surgery,” she says, “homeopathy cuts the recovery time by half or more. I truly can’t think of any condition or situation where I wouldn’t try homeopathy first.”
Dosing and antidoting
Homeopathic remedies are different from conventional drugs in several ways. Because they preserve the “energy” or “vibration” of the substances they’re made from, it’s important to preserve their energy signature by storing and using them correctly.
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Don’t store homeopathic remedies in kitchen cupboards or bathroom medicine cabinets. Instead, keep them in a cool, dark, quiet, dry linen closet, dresser drawer, or basement shelf. Be sure their storage area is far from sunny windows, fluorescent light fixtures, power lines, electrical appliances, cell phones, computers, microwave ovens, and fuse boxes. Keep remedy containers tightly closed when not in use.
Whether you’re treating your pet with tiny pellets from a glass or plastic vial or a small brown envelope, or administering a liquid remedy from a dropper bottle, the number of pellets or drops generally doesn’t matter. More isn’t better, especially in sensitive patients where the number of pellets or drops administered is more significant. For best results, get at least some of the remedy into the dog’s mouth and hold the mouth closed for three seconds.
Don’t touch the remedy with your hands, and discard any pellets that fall to the floor. Don’t expose remedies to strong fragrances, cigarette or incense smoke, or anything containing camphor, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, peppermint, or other strong scents. Keep your pet away from these items as well, because they can “antidote” or neutralize the remedy, even hours or days after treatment.
Give the remedy at least 30 to 60 minutes before or after feeding the dog any meal or treat. Wait at least five to ten minutes before letting the dog drink plain water.
In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given by itself, and if it’s the correct remedy, it stimulates a cure. But in some cases, a remedy may have to be repeated, or a different remedy is needed. Homeopathy is such a complex subject that an experienced veterinary homeopath is your best guide to the selection of remedies, correct remedy strength, and the timing of use.
What to watch for
Homeopaths need detailed descriptions in order to match your dog’s symptoms to the best remedy. To provide this information, get in the habit of writing down any unusual behaviors or actions.
For example, what is your dog’s energy level? Is she more or less active than usual?
Does he have any obvious symptoms, like vomiting, diarrhea, fever, discharges, stiffness, or changes in ear position, posture, or facial expression?
Do any symptoms get better or worse with changes in weather, after rest or exercise, at a particular time of day or night, after eating, or in response to touch or pressure?
When you pet, stroke, or massage your dog, do you notice anything different, like swollen lymph nodes or muscle spasms?
Does your dog prefer warm or cool surfaces? Lying on her left or right side? Is she more or less thirsty? More or less hungry? Having more or fewer bowel movements? Changes in urination?
Has your dog’s behavior changed? Does your independent dog suddenly want to sit on your lap? Does your snuggle puppy want to go off by herself?
Keep careful track of homeopathic remedies that you administer, noting the date and time as well as any changes in your dog’s condition or behavior in the hours and days that follow.
Whether you work with a homeopath in person or by phone or e-mail, have this information handy so you can answer questions and provide accurate descriptions.
The “healing crisis”
Homeopathic treatment often includes a “healing crisis,” in which the patient gets worse before getting better. Just how much worse the patient becomes is a subject fraught with confusion and controversy.
The healing crisis, if it occurs, usually manifests within a week or two of treatment, but it can take place within a day. And sometimes, it can give rise to symptoms that seem far more dramatic than the dog’s original health problem – although, homeopaths suggest, these symptoms should resolve quickly.
Some caregivers have followed their homeopath’s instructions only to watch in horror as the dog’s minor symptoms become incredibly painful. If they aren’t able to reach their homeopath for further instructions, they may turn to a conventional veterinarian for help. Because conventional treatment interferes with homeopathy, the emergency care becomes a cause of strife between client and homeopath, and in memorable cases, homeopaths have “fired” clients who resorted to conventional care, refusing to ever see their dogs again.
In July 2000, Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns took her then-10-year-old Border Collie, Rupert, to a veterinary homeopath, with the goal of finding some lasting relief for Rupert’s chronic allergies. After taking a lengthy history and conducting a physical exam, the homeopath prescribed a remedy.
About 12 hours after being given the remedy, Rupert experienced a dramatic crisis. His ears became inflammed and filled with pus, and, in an apparent effort to find relief, he shook his head so hard, he broke a blood vessel in one ear flap. The flap quickly filled with blood and fluid and stood out from his head in a rigid and clearly painful fashion. He staggered sideways and whimpered in pain.
“I was frantic,” says Kerns. “The first thing I did was call the homeopath. But her voicemail indicated she was out of town for a few days. She did leave contact information for another veterinary homeopath who could help with emergencies, but this vet was far away, and Rupert was in agony. I felt I had to take him to a veterinarian who could see and respond to his new symptoms, and I took him to a conventional emergency vet clinic.”
Kerns knew that the conventional medical response to such a dramatic ear infection would be a prescription for antibiotics, and that the hematoma would have to be lanced, stitched, and bandaged. She also learned that steroids would be prescribed to reduce the inflammation.
“I knew from reading and writing about homeopathy that steroids and antibiotics are anethema to many homeopaths; I guessed that the practitioner I saw would be upset about these developments. But Rupert was suffering acutely; I would have done anything that would help him feel better fast.”
When the homeopath returned, Kerns steeled herself for a lecture. “Sure enough, she was furious with me,” says Kerns. “She told me that the dramatic reaction had been evidence that the remedy had worked; it was moving the problem from the inside of my dog to the outside, which is supposed to be a good thing. She told me that the steroids and antibiotics had probably set back Rupert’s healing process by weeks or months, and it would be far more difficult to stimulate his body to deal with all the chronic and now acute wreckage. And she said that if I were anyone else, she would have fired me as a client on the spot. Well, I didn’t expect or want special treatment, and I didn’t have to be asked to leave; I didn’t consult this practitioner again.
“I have heard hundreds of stories from dog owners who say that homeopathy has cured their dogs. It does seem to be a powerful tool, and sometimes succeeds where other treatments do not. But the experience I had with Rupert made me concerned about the whole process. If maintaining the purity of the treatment in hopes of a future cure is more important than alleviating my dog’s immediate suffering – well, that doesn’t fit my definition of compassionate medicine. I would try homeopathy again, but only if the practitioner understood that I would also use conventional medicine if I thought the situation warranted its use.”
Dr. Herman sympathizes. “When the dog’s condition is accurately diagnosed and the correct remedy is used,” she says, “the healing crisis, if there is one at all, should be minor. We try not to disturb it because it’s like a skirmish, a small battle, between the patient’s vital force and the disease. The remedy comes in and triggers a reaction from the vital force, and that’s when you see a temporary worsening of symptoms.”
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Last week Dr. Herman treated a young dog for kennel cough. The next day he was better, but the day after that he was suddenly worse. She reassured the owner and asked her to wait and watch a little longer, and by the following day, the dog was completely fine.
Dr. Herman’s first patient was her own Golden Retriever, Patrick. When she first took up homeopathy, she gave him a remedy for a skin condition. He improved for 24 hours, then his eyes began to tear and water. He was eating normally and was active and playful but his face was drenched. The next day his eyes were dry. That evening, he started itching and he scratched all night.
“I was definitely worried,” she says, “but he acted like himself when I called him, so I waited and hoped for the best.” By the next day, he was better and his itching and scratching decreased until those symptoms disappeared as well.
“These are examples of how a healing crisis should work,” says Dr. Herman. “The patient’s vital force is activated and healing begins from within.
“But if the patient gets dramatically worse and is in terrible pain, that’s an indication that the homeopath didn’t choose the right remedy or potency. There are over a thousand remedies and each one corresponds to a specific set of symptoms. It’s impossible to keep all this information in your head, so you have to look things up, and because several remedies treat similar combinations of symptoms, it takes time and patience to find the perfect match. Whenever I hear about a homeopathic remedy triggering an extreme healing crisis, I know it wasn’t the right remedy or potency.”
Dr. Herman appreciates the frustration of both homeopath and client when animals suffer. “The antidote to the painful effects of a wrong remedy is finding and using the right remedy or potency,” she says. “This works best if the case isn’t complicated by the administration of symptom-suppressing drugs.”
At the same time, Dr. Herman acknowledges, “We never want our dogs to suffer. I respect my clients’ decisions about treatment even when I would prefer to do something different, and so do most of the veterinary homeopaths I know. Conventional care can interrupt homeopathic treatment, but it isn’t necessarily true that it interferes to such an extent that the dog can’t ever be successfully treated with homeopathy in the future.”
Finding the right homeopath
Searching for the right veterinary homeopath is like searching for the perfect dentist, hairdresser, or dog trainer. You want someone with the right combination of technical skill, patience, and personality. Some conventional veterinarians consult with and recommend veterinary homeopaths. Trainers, groomers, dog clubs, health food stores, and pet supply stores may be able to refer you to a local homeopath. Some homeopaths maintain websites that explain the subject in detail.
One of the best ways to find a veterinary homeopath, Dr. Herman advises, is to go to the website for the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (see “Resources Mentioned in This Article,” page 13). “Here the veterinarians who are certified have gone through a long process of evaluation and testing,” she explains. “They use a standard of practice that follows the Organon, the teachings of Hahnemann. They must maintain continuing education credits. Certification stands for a proven level of understanding and competence in these practitioners. The dog’s guardian will feel more confidence in the abilities of a certified veterinary homeopath than someone of unknown credentials.”
A veterinary homeopath who is always available for follow-up questions is a blessing, especially for new clients. “I’m on call for my clients 24/7,” says Dr. Herman. “They want to know whether they should repeat a remedy, give a new remedy, or go to the emergency room. Much of my work is a combination of education and hand-holding.”
Sometimes the homeopath is a considerable distance away, working with clients or conventional veterinarians by phone or email. Long-distance consultations are common.
“When I travel in North America,” says Dr. Herman, “I’m in phone contact with my clients, but when I go to Europe, a veterinary homeopath in Louisiana covers for me, and I do the same for her when she travels.”
Is your dog a candidate?
Although most homeopaths believe that homeopathy can help any dog in any condition, some dogs are better candidates for success than others.
“The most challenging cases,” says Dr. Herman, “are older dogs with long-standing chronic conditions, especially those who are fed a supermarket kibble and have received annual vaccinations along with conventional symptom-suppressing drugs. I feed a raw diet and recommend it to my clients because, in my experience, dogs on raw food respond better and faster to homeopathy. Younger dogs who are otherwise in good health, physically active, and on a raw diet usually respond quickly to remedies.”
For those who aren’t able to feed raw, Dr. Herman recommends upgrading the commercial diet and adding raw meat whenever possible. “And even those who switch to raw may have to experiment,” she says. “We have a few dogs who do best on a raw diet that includes some grains, while most do better on a grain-free diet. My own dog hates vegetables. There isn’t a single diet that’s perfect for all dogs, but the more you feed fresh, raw, high-quality ingredients, the more likely it is that your dog will respond well to homeopathy.”
Some veterinary homeopaths report that the patient’s response to homeopathy can be enhanced by supplements that improve digestion and assimilation, including probiotics and digestive enzymes.
Are you a candidate?
Healthcare is so strongly affected by cultural conditioning that many people will never consider trying homeopathy. It’s just too different from what they’re used to.
Others may be interested but are so used to suppressing symptoms that the thought of letting a fever run its course or waiting through a day of discomfort raises their own stress levels. The clients most likely to obtain good results are those who learn the basics of homeopathy, know how to administer remedies, carefully observe their pets, and record symptoms. These clients understand that homeopathy isn’t necessarily a quick fix and that problems a conventional veterinarian might diagnose as acute or new, like ear infections, usually aren’t acute at all – they’re chronic problems that just got worse.
“Yes, you can suppress the symptoms with drugs,” says Dr. Herman, “but the symptoms will come back and will be harder to cure. That’s what most people have trouble grasping. They’re used to thinking that once symptoms disappear, the patient is cured forever. But we all know dogs who get treated with symptom-suppressing drugs and whose problems keep coming back. In truth, the symptoms never went away, they just got buried for a while.
“In the end,” she says, “everything depends on the caregiver. That includes the person’s interest in the healing process and his or her expectations. My job is to make the animal as comfortable as I can while respecting the owner’s decisions.”
Dr. Herman’s first patient, her own Patrick, convinced her of the value of homeopathy. “Most Golden Retrievers have inherited health problems,” she says, “and he was no exception. His mother died of lymphoma 10 months after giving birth. His father died at seven of hemangiosarcoma. I removed a precancerous tumor from Patrick when he was one year old. His hips popped out for the first year of his life, and he had chronic hip problems.”
Patrick was three when Dr. Herman discovered homeopathy. “Thanks to the right remedy, his skin improved every year, becoming less and less of a problem as he got older,” she says. “He didn’t begin limping until he was 11, and he was still active and enjoying life. At age 14, he suffered a seizure and I realized he had a brain tumor. We had four more months together, and then he passed on.
“When I told his breeder, she was amazed that he lived so long because every other dog in his line had died by age eight. I was the only one who fed a raw diet and used homeopathy. Everyone in his line – aunts, uncles, parents, grandparents, siblings, nieces, and nephews – died at age seven or eight, and Patrick lived almost twice that long with so few problems. He’s a big reason why you I am convinced that homeopathy, even in a worst case, can always do something to help a dog.”
CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to Whole Dog Journal, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
