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Uncommonly Calm Canines

Most dog owners are pleased when their dogs are calm – even the owners of high-energy competition and working dogs, when those dogs are “off-duty.” Some owners may go to great – sometimes misguided – lengths to achieve the coveted calm condition. Humans who understand the appropriate way to help a dog learn to be calm can make the difference between the canine companion who finds a lifelong loving home, and the one who ends up – sometimes several times in his life – gazing sadly out from the chain-link kennels of an animal shelter.

Calm is a highly valued, hard-won, and sometimes transitory state in our own household. With four dogs in the Miller pack, two of them proud representatives of the herding group, calm is something we have to work at. We use the time-honored recipe of exercise, management, and training (and of course, lots of love) to help our canine family members be a peaceable pack.

Cocker Spaniel

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The “Uncommonly Calm” (UC) Program
You can turn your Bouncing Betty into a Sedate Sally by following a simple program that helps her get rid of excess energy, prevents her from being rewarded for out-of-control behavior, and consistently rewards her for being calm.

Exercise: The first element in your UC program is to provide your dog with lots of exercise. Wise dog trainers and owners know that a tired dog is a well-behaved dog. Often when your dog is at her worst, she is simply brimming with energy bursting to find an escape. Tug-o-war on your pants leg, donuts around the dining room table, and record high-jumps over the back of the sofa are just some of her outlets for that pent-up energy.

Mental and physical activities are both vitally important parts of a canine exercise program. For the physical side, schedule at least three tongue-dragging sessions of chase-the-ball per day. Climb to the top of a hill or carpeted staircase (perhaps not for long-backed dogs) and throw the ball down so she has to keep climbing back up to return it to you. Set up an obstacle course with lots of things to climb and jump over. Be careful not to send her into heatstroke, but definitely play until she’s pooped. Keep your exercise program breed-appropriate – an athletic Border Collie will need lots more physical challenges than an English Bulldog.

Don’t think that a walk around the block will do it. A walk on leash, even a long walk, is nothing but an exercise hors d’oeurve for a young dog. You’re tired when you get home from the walk, but your dog is just getting warmed up! If no one in the family has time to give your dog adequate exercise, arrange for a pet sitter to come by a couple of times a day and wear her out, or take her to doggie daycare as often as possible. Eight hours of romping with other dogs is guaranteed to take the wind out of her sails! (See “All in a Day’s Care,” Whole Dog Journal April 2001.)

Caution: Check with your veterinarian prior to starting your dog on a vigorous exercise program. Just as with humans, too much exercise too suddenly can damage canine joints and muscles. Out-of-shape and overweight dogs especially will need to ease into a physical exercise program.

Mental exercise is an often-overlooked but valuable tool in your UC arsenal. Mind games can be every bit as tiring for your dog as running games, and are a good choice in conjunction with physical exercise during inclement weather, and/or as an alternative for dogs with physical limitations. Interactive toys, shaping games, and clicker training are all good mind candy for your overactive canine pal. (See “Mind Games,” October 2004.)

Manage: The second piece of a successful UC program is management. In addition to regular exercise, you can make other changes in your dog’s routine to manage inappropriate behavior.

If your high-energy dog grabs forbidden objects and races around the house, it’s probably because she’s learned that this triggers a wonderful game of “chase the dog!” This is very fun and rewarding for her – and behaviors that are rewarded increase. The management answer is to keep forbidden objects out of her reach, and avoid falling into her trap of chasing when she grabs something. Instead, walk to your cupboard, take out a tasty treat, and offer to trade for the object. Then put it out of her reach. (For much more on managing your dog’s behavior, see “Upper Level Management,” August 2001.)

Another piece of the management puzzle is physically controlling your dog’s behavior through the judicious use of leashes, pens, crates, and tethers. (See “Tethered to Success,” April 2001, and “Crate Training Made Easy,” August 2000.)

Training: The final important element of your UC program is training. The more training you do with your dog the easier it is to communicate with her. The better she understands your communications, the easier it is for her to follow your instructions and comply with your requests.

Click for calm
Whether you have a baby dog with normal puppy energy, an obstreperous teenager, or an adult dog who has good manners lessons to catch up on, clicker training can be a magically effective and gentle way to convince a dog to calm down. No yelling, no physical punishment; just clicks and treats for any pause in the action.

The biggest challenge with a high energy dog is that the instant you try to praise or reward, she’s bouncing off the walls again. Timing and consistency are key to successful training. If a reward is given more than a second or two beyond the desired behavior, the dog has lost the connection, and believes she’s being rewarded for whatever she’s doing now.

It’s nearly impossible to have good timing if it requires delivering the treat to the excitable dog while she’s momentarily calm. By the time you get the treat to her mouth she’s once again doing her Bouncing Betty act. She may well perceive the treat as a reward for her jumping jacks rather than for the sought-after calmness that occurred briefly, several seconds ago.

However, once a dog has learned the connection between the “click” and a pending reward, your timing can be impeccable: an instant of calm elicits a “click” – the treat can arrive several seconds later. An added advantage of the clicker is that most dogs, when they hear the click, pause in anticipation of the coming morsel, drawing out the brief period of relatively calm behavior even longer.

At the same time you’re laying a foundation of exercise and management, you can begin an effective clicker-training program. Don’t procrastinate – you can accomplish this on the first day of your UC program.

Start by “charging the clicker” – officially known in behavior circles as “conditioning the reward marker.” Begin by clicking the clicker in your pocket, to avoid startling your dog with the sharp sound. Click the clicker, feed your dog a treat. Click and treat. Click and treat. As she begins to associate the sound with the treat, bring the clicker out of your pocket and click it in a more natural position at your side or your waist.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything special to get the click and treat, as long as she isn’t doing something unacceptable, like jumping on you or chewing the corner of the coffee table. If necessary, use a leash or tether to keep her out of trouble while you click and treat. Most dogs realize within a half-dozen repetitions that the click means a treat is coming. When your dog’s ears perk and her eyes brighten at the sound of the click, you know she’s getting it. Now you can use your charged clicker for training.

The goal of clicker training is to get your dog to understand that she can make the click happen by offering certain behaviors – in this case, calm. At first, you can’t wait for long, leisurely stretches of calm behavior to click; you won’t get them! You might begin by giving your dog a click and treat just because all four feet are on the floor at the same instant. Be quick! You want her to understand that the behavior she was rewarded for was pausing with all four feet on the floor, so your timing needs to be sharp; the click needs to happen the instant all four feet are down. If you click late, you may be reinforcing her bouncing around – the exact opposite of what you want!

If your timing is good and you catch her with four-on-the-floor several times in a row you’ll see her start to stand still deliberately, in order to make the clicker go off. Light bulb moment! A door has opened in her brain, and you can now see her thinking. This, to me, is one of the most exciting moments in dog training – when the dog realizes that she can control the clicker. A whole new world of communication has just opened to her. You now have a very powerful tool in your little plastic clicker box. You can use it to reinforce any behavior you want, any time it happens, and your dog will quickly start repeating that behavior for you.

Okay, back to calm. How does “pausing briefly on all four feet” translate into a calm dog? Very gradually. You are going to “shape” the pause into longer and longer periods of stillness, by extending the time, in milliseconds at first, that you wait as she is standing still before you click and treat. If you err and she starts to jump around again, just wait. Eventually, there will be another pause that you can click, and then start the shaping again.

As she gets better at being calm for longer and longer periods, be sure to reinforce randomly – sometimes for shorter pauses, sometimes longer. If you just keep making it harder and harder – longer and longer – she may get frustrated and quit playing the game.

Each training session should be relatively short, to avoid frustration for both of you, but you can do several in a day. You’ll have the most success, at least at first, if you practice clicking calm right after one of her exercise sessions when she’s tired anyway. As she gets the idea that “calm” is a very rewardable behavior, it will work even when she has more energy.

When your dog is holding still for several seconds at a time, add the verbal cue of your choice – something like “Easy!”, that you will be able to use (eventually) to cue her into calmness. Over time, you’ll be able to phase out the click and treat for calm behavior and use other rewards such as calm praise, a gentle massage, or an invitation to lie quietly next to you on the sofa.

Go to your place
You can use your management tether and your clicker to teach your dog a very useful calming exercise, called “go to your place.” Fix up her tether station so it’s very comfortable, with a soft bed, really good chew toys, and unspillable water. Toss a treat onto the bed and say “go to your place.”

When she gets there and is about to snatch up the treat, click your clicker. Repeat several times, clicking and treating each time, until she goes to her spot easily. Then attach the tether to her collar. Sit in a chair nearby but out of her reach, and read a book.

If she fusses, ignore her. When she’s quiet, click, and toss her a treat. This is “positive reinforcement” – her good behavior makes something good happen – she gets a click and treat. Occasionally when she’s being calm, get up, go over to her bed and quietly pet and praise her. This is also positive reinforcement. If she starts to get excited when you’re with her, go back to your chair and sit down again. This is “negative punishment” – her inappropriate behavior makes something good go away – you leave. Negative punishment is considered effective and humane by most positive trainers.

When she’s calm on her tether for long stretches – up to 5 or 10 minutes with occasional treats and visits – you can remove the tether and continue to reward her for lying calmly on her bed. If she revs up again, re-tether her and practice more calm. You’ll also want to practice this when you have visitors. First, give your dog an extra tiring play-session before your guests arrive so she can be on her best behavior. Have her on her bed, tethered if necessary, and wait until she’s calm to allow guests to greet her. When she’s relaxed, untether her so she can mingle with the visitors politely. If she gets carried away, she can do another session on her tether.

Self control
Dogs who have a great deal of trouble with the concept of calm are often dogs who have difficulty with impulse control. The “wait” exercise can be a very useful part of your UC program, especially for dogs who are short on impulse control. I teach the wait behavior using my dogs’ food bowls, and at doorways. Since they get two meals a day and I let them in and out several times in any given 24-hour period, we have countless built-in opportunities to practice this important self-control skill. Once they learn it, the self-control “wait” easily generalizes to other situations.

Here’s how I teach them:

Wait for food: With your dog sitting at your side, tell her to “wait.” Hold the food bowl (with food it in, topped with tasty treats) at your chest, then move it toward the floor 4 to 6 inches. If your dog stays sitting, click and feed her a treat from the bowl. If your dog gets up, say “Oops!” and ask her to sit again. If she remains sitting, lower the bowl 4 to 6 inches again, click and treat. Repeat this step several times until she consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl.

Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with succeeding repetitions until you can place it on the floor without your dog trying to get up or eat it. Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell her to eat. After she’s had a few bites, lift the bowl up and try again, lowering the bowl a little farther this time. Repeat these steps until you can place the bowl on the floor and she doesn’t move until you tell her she can.

Any time your dog starts to get up as you move the bowl toward the floor, use the “oops” no-reward marker to let her know getting up makes the good stuff go away, and raise the bowl out of her reach. Have her sit and try again. If she gets up several times in a row, you are asking for too much too soon; move the bowl in smaller increments.

Caution: If your dog guards valuable resources such as her food bowl, consult with a qualified positive behavior professional before trying this exercise. Wait at the door: With your dog sitting at your side, tell her to “wait.” Reach for the doorknob. If she doesn’t move, click and treat. Repeat this step several times. Then jiggle the door knob. Click and reward her for not moving. Repeat this step several times. Slowly open the door a crack. Again, click and treat if she doesn’t move, and repeat. Gradually open the door farther, an inch or two at a time. Do several repetitions at each step, with clicks and treats each time.

Eventually you’ll be able to walk all the way through the door, stop, and face your dog, without having her move. Wait a few seconds, click, then return and give her a tasty treat. Of course, sometimes you’ll actually give her the okay to go out the door ¨C she has to go out sometime!

If you have multiple dogs, teach them each to wait at the door, and then you can really have fun! Using a little body-blocking as necessary – stepping in front of the dog(s) you’re not releasing – invite them out the door one at a time by name. This is very useful for those times when you really do only want one or two – not all – your dogs to go with you to the outside world.

UC in the Miller household
As I write this, our dogs are, indeed, calm. Lucy, a high-energy Cardigan Corgi (who has difficulty with impulse control), is in the living room watching a football game on the recliner with my husband Paul. Missy, an older but still active Australian Shepherd, is snoozing in her crate in the living room, while Dubhy the Scottie is sound asleep on the other recliner. Bonnie, a young Corgi/Scottie mix, is curled up in her crate under the table in my office. There’s no movement from any of them.

This doesn’t happen by accident. Most mornings we’re up and out to the barn to feed horses by 5:30 am, dogs at our heels. Their first hour of the day is spent chasing dog toys (and each other) up and down the barn aisle, playing “king of the hay bales,” scavenging for dropped bits of grain, and pretending to herd horses as we lead them out to their pastures. This uses up enough energy that the pack can spend a quiet morning in the house with me while I’m on the computer.

Later on, weather permitting, we share lunch in the backyard. Lucy retrieves toys that I toss for her while I eat, and Bonnie retrieves Lucy. Missy and Dubhy, older and less energetic, watch calmly.

There are a variety of other activities we might incorporate into our day, including training sessions, and games with interactive toys. Lucy is especially taken with the new generation of puzzle toys, such as ZooActive’s Dog Tornado. [Editor’s note: Pat will be reviewing the entire line of ZooActive’s interactive puzzles for dogs, from Pawlickers.com, in an upcoming issue.]

Sometimes one or more of the dogs is called into service as a neutral dog for a dog-reactive private client, or a canine play-partner for a soft or undersocialized dog who doesn’t engage well with others during group class playtime. On a really good day we set aside time for a dog-pack hike around our 80-acre farm. This is, without a doubt, the Miller dogs’ favorite activity. And, of course, we always practice wait for food bowls and at doors.

None of this wears them out completely. The instant I roll my chair away from my desk, three sets of girlie dog-paws leap into action and three pairs of canine eyes light up at the prospect of the next activity. (Dubhy, the true sloth of the group, conserves energy, happy to lie in his crate until he’s convinced there’s something exciting in the offing – for sure.) What the Miller UC program does do is give our dogs enough exercise, management, training – and love – to allow them to be relaxed and calm when I need them to be.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; and Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog. See “Resources,” page 24.

Additional Whole Dog Journal 2008 Approved Dry Foods

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This is absolutely not an excuse, but do us a favor and look at the incredible accumulation of minute facts about dog foods that appeared in the February issue and in this one; it may have been inevitable that we made a few small mistakes. We apologize for any inconvenience we have caused through the following errors and/or oversights:

  • The section on Wellness should have mentioned both Wellness and Wellness Simple Food Solutions; both lines of food are on our “approved dry dog food” list. We also listed Wellness’s physical and website addresses incorrectly; the company is in Tewksbury, Massachusetts, and the website is wellnesspetfood.com.
  • Solid Gold sent us their materials too late for us to include their products in our “approved dry dog foods” list in the February issue; their product information appears here now.
  • Due to an editing error, we failed to include the information sent to us by Pet Chef Express in the same “approved foods” list; their product information is also included here now.
  • We meant to note that a major feature of SmartPak’s LiveSmart food is its unique packaging and direct-shipping option. If desired, SmartPak will seal your dog’s food in individually customized daily portion packages; this is for an additional monthly fee of $6.95 (shipping is free). This way, the food is “just-opened” fresh every day! It also makes it easy to keep your dog on a diet, especially if portion control is a problem with the people who feed the dog in your house.
  • This one was totally not our fault! “Light Up the Night” – a review of nighttime visibility products in the January issue contained an inaccuracy in the description of our top pick in reflective collars. Glow Dog, based in Ashland, Massachusetts, makes the most amazing reflective products for dogs and their handlers. The products look normal in daylight, but reflect very brightly when headlights are trained on them.

Our only criticism of Glow Dog’s products noted that its reflective collar lacked a D-ring for a leach attachment, an oversight we didn’t understand. Glow Dog responded that of course its collars had D-rings, and they sent us some more collars as proof. But the one we received as a sample really didn’t! Apparently it was a dud, sent to us in error. Glow Dog says, “We stand behind our 100% satisfaction guarantee!”

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If you receive a Glow Dog product that doesn’t seem right, contact the company at (888) 456-9364 for a refund or a replacement. Glow Dog website (glowdog.com) is currently under construction; products can be purchased through nite-gear.com.

Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 Approved Grain-Free Dry Dog Foods

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Last month’s issue contained our annual review of dry dog foods, but with an exception from our usual format: This year, we decided to break out grain-free dry dog foods from the increasingly populated and competitive pack of terrific kibbled products on the market. We did not review them in the February issue, but will discuss grain-free foods at length here.

In 2005, Natura Pet Products was the first pet food company to manufacture and market a grain-free kibble, which was initially called Innova Evo (and is now called simply Evo). The success of the product, in the market and with many of the dogs fed the diet, sparked a proliferation of grain-free foods. We were able to find more than a dozen companies that currently offer one or more grain-free foods that meet our selection criteria.

Grain-free dry foods are still new enough that many dog owners wonder whether grain-free products are healthy for dogs – and how it’s even possible to make a dry dog food without grain.

Early pet food manufacturers used grain and grain by-products cast off by the human food manufacturing industry because they were readily available, relatively inexpensive, and functional. The choice wasn’t made because dogs needed grain, but because dogs could utilize them.

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Dogs have no dietary requirement for grains, and are physically not well suited to harvest, chew, and digest them. Biologists who study wild canines argue vociferously about the importance of the grains that are consumed by the dog’s prey and are in turn taken in by the dog through consumption of his prey’s digestive tract – but most agree that the percentage of grain in the dog’s evolutionary diet is tiny.

The fact that the dog will eat grains and can derive benefits from them is less indicative of the suitability of dietary grain for canines and more of a testament to the dog’s long evolutionary history of eating anything and benefiting from it.

Plus, laboratory studies have proven that dogs have no dietary requirement for carbohydrates whatsoever; dogs can survive and thrive on diets containing only animal protein and fat.

The last – but not least – impetus for creating grain-free dog foods is the fact that some dogs are intolerant of or allergic to cereal grains. For these animals, grain-free foods often produce amazing results, as chronic symptoms of intolerance or allergy go away, and the dogs begin to thrive – perhaps for the first time in their lives.

Features of grain-free foods
When manufacturing grain-free kibble, whether baked, extruded, or dehydrated, most pet food companies replace grains with other carbohydrate sources; “grain-free” does not mean “carb-free.” To calculate the percentage of carbohydrates in a food, start with 100, and subtract the percentages of protein, fat, moisture, and ash. The remainder is the carbohydrate content.

The role that carbohydrates play in grain-free dry dog foods varies quite a bit. Some companies have produced foods that are very high in protein and fat, with low levels of carbohydrates. Others have taken a more moderate approach, creating products that are higher in carbohydrates, and with protein and fat levels that more closely resemble the levels found in conventional, grain-filled dry dog foods. A dog owner who is considering a grain-free food has to look at the following to determine which of the products would be most appropriate for her dog:

Amount of protein. High-protein diets are generally suggested for dogs with high-stress, high-activity lifestyles. Recent studies have suggested that a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet helps fat dogs lose weight more efficiently than higher-carb diets that contain fewer calories. Diets with more moderate levels of high-quality protein are suggested for dogs with kidney disease.

Amount of fat. Some of these foods contain very high levels of fat. High-fat foods are most appropriate for hard-working dogs, dogs in extremely cold environments, breeding animals, dogs with cancer (who benefit from low-carbohydrate diets), and “hard keepers” – dogs who are chronically thin. High-fat diets are not appropriate for overweight dogs.

Amount of carbohydrates. If an owner is trying to feed a moderate protein, low-fat food, the diet will necessarily contain higher levels of carbs. This is a perfectly fine formula for many dogs. Just keep in mind that high-carb diets cause blood sugar fluctuations and insulin resistance – bad for dogs with or prone to diabetes. And dogs with cancer should eat high-fat, low- or no-carb diets (canine cancer cells utilize carbohydrates for growth).

Calcium and phosphorus levels.Calories. Some grain-free diets are very calorie-dense. Large- and giant-breed puppies, in particular, should not be fed high-calorie diets. And portion control is critical when feeding a high-calorie diet to a dog of any age.

Choices
On the following pages, we’ve highlighted some grain-free dry dog foods that meet our selection criteria for a top-quality food. On pages 16-17, we have identified 12 pet food makers with top-quality grain-free offerings, and we’ve highlighted the ingredients of one food from each company. The foods are presented in alphabetical order of their makers.

On pages 18-19, we delve deeper into the nutrient content of each highlighted food, including the amounts of protein, fat, carbs, calcium, and phosphorus (as well as other nutrients, as you’ll see).

Though each of these products meets our selection criteria, as we have just explained, only you can select the grain-free food that’s appropriate for your dog, using the nutrient values on our charts.

Keep in mind that these foods are not perfect for every dog; some dogs do better on a diet that contains grain!

An In-Depth Look at Typical Nutrient Levels in Commerical Dog Foods

On the previous pages and above, we’ve highlighted grain-free foods from 12 companies. Given a smaller field of foods than we feature in our review of conventional dry dog foods (which appears in each February’s issue), and given the fact that these companies have taken such disparate approaches to formulating their grain-free products, we decided that now would be a perfect time to discuss the variations in nutrient levels found in pet foods.

As we discussed in detail in “Take it With a Block of Salt,” (February 2007), it comes as a surprise to many dog owners that foods that are labeled as “complete and balanced” can actually contain a wide range of nutrient levels. While they probably contain at least a minimum of nutrients your dog needs, various “complete and balanced” foods do not provide equal amounts of essential nutrients!

On the following pages, we’ve charted the nutrient levels contained in each of the products highlighted on the previous pages. Take a look at how different they are – and let this information guide your selection of a product that’s most appropriate for your dog.

Why these nutrients?
In order to sell its products as “complete and balanced” for dogs, pet food makers have to ensure that the products meet certain requirements. The first way they can accomplish this is to formulate the candidate product so that the nutrients it contains fall within parameters developed by a quasi-governmental industry group, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

AAFCO is not an enforcement or regulatory agency. Rather, it is comprised of feed control officials from each state, who get together to research, discuss, and develop model feed control policies (which are generally adopted, with some exceptions, by the individual states).

Over the decades, AAFCO members have mined facts and conclusions from nutritional studies conducted by industry and university researchers. Their goal has been the ongoing development and refinement of a set of recommendations: the AAFCO Dog and Cat Food Nutrient Profiles. The profiles include values for each of the nutrients currently understood to be essential for maintaining dogs or cats. For most of the nutrients, only a minimum value is offered; maximum “safe” values are known for only a small number of nutrients (mostly minerals, as well as vitamins A, D, and E).

The AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles include values for the following nutrients:

Crude protein, as well as the 10 amino acids known to be essential for maintaining canine health. (Many studies suggest that dogs would benefit from the addition of a minimum requirement for taurine, but this is still controversial among nutrition experts. Many dog food makers add taurine to their products anyway.)

Crude fat, as well as linoleic acid, an Omega 6 fatty acid.

Twelve minerals, including the two most important ones – calcium and phosphorus – which must be present in a specified range of ratios to each other.

Eleven vitamins. (A case can be made for the need to add minimum levels of vitamin K and biotin to the AAFCO profiles. Again, this is still controversial. Many dog food makers add vitamin K and/or biotin to their products.)

The AAFCO nutrient profiles (and our chart on the following pages) are expressed on what’s called a “dry matter” (DM) basis, making it possible to accurately compare foods that contain varying amounts of moisture.

Most pet food labels express their contents on an “as fed” basis, which includes the moisture present in the food. To convert an “as fed” value from the label of a dog food bag, divide the value listed by the percentage of the food that is not moisture. For example, say a label reports that a food contains 28% protein and 10% moisture. Divide 28 by 90 (the percentage of the food that is not moisture) and you get 31 – the percentage of protein in the food on a DM basis.

Other paths to adequacy
A company can also make a claim of nutritional adequacy for its candidate product based on feeding trials of the food that are conducted according to AAFCO protocols. In this case, the label will reference this, not the nutrient levels of the food.

Be aware that foods that have met the “feeding trials” standard may not meet all of the AAFCO nutrient profiles, and that foods that met the “nutrient levels” standard were not required to pass a feeding trial.

Try not to think about the third method of achieving a “complete and balanced” status. It won’t be hard, because you won’t see any mention of it on a product label. Referred to as the “family member” rule, it allows a manufacturer to use the “feeding trial” claim if the maker can demonstrate that a new product bears a “nutritional similarity” to one of its products that has already passed a feeding trial.

For each of the foods we’ve highlighted as “top grain-free dry dog foods,” we’ve charted the values (right) for each of the nutrients in the AAFCO profiles. We’ve noted at the bottom of the columns which foods met the “complete and balanced” nutritional adequacy requirements via the “nutrient levels” standard, and which met the “feeding trials” standard. You may notice that when you see values that lie outside (or close to the edges of) the AAFCO profiles, you’re almost always looking at a food that met the feeding trials standard.

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By the way, we gathered the data for this table from the food makers themselves. Any food company ought to be able to produce this information to interested consumers in a snap, though we were dismayed to discover that some companies seemed to have trouble fulfilling our request. This is troubling, because their foods should be frequently tested to make sure their formulas are consistently producing the intended nutrient levels.

In contrast, we hugely appreciate and applaud companies like Natura Pet Products (maker of Evo), which keeps the complete typical nutrient analysis for each of its foods published on its website.

Why switching foods is a good idea
We’ve always found it fascinating that many otherwise knowledgeable dog owners and industry professionals (including veterinarians and long-time breeders) are unaware of the fact that different “complete and balanced” dog foods may display widely divergent amounts of the nutrients that are essential for their pet’s health.

Most foods have some nutrient levels that are relatively low and others that may be a bit high. Imagine that a dog is given a lifetime diet that is a bit low in some nutrients and a bit high in others. Over time, fed a diet solely comprised of that food, the dog’s body will become a figurative model of those nutrient levels, for better or worse. This is exactly why humans are told to eat a variety of healthy foods – to prevent this very scenario! Now, why would such a feeding plan make sense for canines, but not humans? It doesn’t!

We consider all of the foods mentioned here to be of very high quality – but we wouldn’t want a dog to eat only one of any of these (or any other) food for the rest of his life!

Chiropractors for Canines

Everyone knows that chiropractors are bone and joint doctors. They help alleviate back pain and other aches by making adjustments that improve skeletal alignment and musculoskeletal function. In recent years, chiropractic adjustments have become popular for dogs, especially those recovering from accidents or injuries.

But did you know that chiropractic care can improve a dog’s digestion; speed healing after illness or surgery; treat behavior or mood changes; help alleviate ear infections, urinary incontinence, and allergies; and even correct neurological imbalances?

Cheryl Morris, DC (Doctor of Chiro-practic), a chiropractor for humans in Congers, New York, knew something was wrong with Stanley Queue, her five-year-old Scottie. He vomited spontaneously three or four times a day several times a week, and when she palpated his abdomen, his diaphragm felt tight.

Stanley’s digestive problems were her main concern, but he also limped because of hind leg weakness. Five months ago, she took him to chiropractic veterinarian Sue Ann Lesser, DVM. Dr. Lesser conducts monthly animal chiropractic clinics in New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, and Maryland.

“After that first adjustment,” says Dr. Morris, “Stanley’s tail was up for the first time in months, he walked normally, and he went for an entire week without throwing up. Even after his vomiting returned, it happened less often and was less intense.”

Dr. Lesser suggested a change of diet, so Dr. Morris switched dog food brands and protein sources. “That made a big difference,” she says. “At his second appointment, his thoracic lumbar junction needed adjustment, and after that he kept improving. So far Stanley has had five adjustments, and he keeps getting better.”

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In another chiropractic success story, Cassie, a spayed female Shepherd mix, suffered from urinary incontinence until chiropractic veterinarian Cindy Maro, DVM, adjusted her fifth lumbar vertebrae, sacral apex, and the base of her sacral bone. As soon as she did so, Cassie’s urinary leakage and long-term bowel and anal gland problems disappeared. (We discussed this case in more detail in “Not Just for Sore Backs,” Whole Dog Journal October 2003.)

Some breeders coping with reproductive problems consider chiropractic a fertility treatment because so many of their dogs conceived after being adjusted.

Even hot spots and lick granulomas may respond to chiropractic adjustments. Last summer my Labrador Retriever, Chloe, developed a lick granuloma on her right front paw. At her monthly appointment, Dr. Lesser said, “I’m not surprised. Her toes were jammed.” After a quick toe-freeing adjustment, Chloe forgot about chewing her foot.

Chloe’s problem had a mechanical cause, but dozens of conditions that have no obvious connection to the skeleton and its alignment respond to chiropractic treatment. As the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) website explains, all of the body’s organs are connected to nerves that run between vertebrae, and adjustments in these areas can change or influence nervous system input and blood flow as well as hormones and neurotransmitter levels directly affecting organs, glands, skin, and joints.

“Every dog is an individual,” Dr. Lesser says, “and responses vary, but I truly can’t think of a medical condition that won’t be helped in some way by chiropractic adjustments. I’m never surprised when dogs respond to chiropractic treatment, even for conditions like infections, skin and coat problems, digestive disorders, behavioral problems, and recovery from the use of anesthesia. This doesn’t mean that chiropractic care is a stand-alone treatment that replaces conventional veterinary care. Chiropractic is a complementary or support therapy. A thorough veterinary exam should always precede any chiropractic evaluation.”

To help determine whether your dog will benefit from chiropractic treatment, see “Biomechanical Evaluation” by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD (August 2002 Whole Dog Journal). Dr. Kidd’s descriptions and checklists will help you see your dog from a new perspective, keep accurate health records, and make more informed decisions about your dog’s care.

America’s veterinary chiropractors
The formal training of veterinary chiropractors in the U.S. began in 1989 with a 100-hour post-graduate course developed and taught by Sharon Willoughby, DVM, DC, in which veterinarians and chiropractors were trained side by side. In programs approved by the AVCA, that practice continues today. Veterinarians receive a foundation of chiropractic theory and technique, while chiropractors study common animal diseases, comparative anatomy, and animal-handling techniques. Adjustments are taught with both dogs and horses.

Licensing regulations vary by state. In New York, where Dr. Morris adjusts human patients, chiropractic treatment can be given to dogs and other animals only by licensed veterinarians. Even if she studied veterinary chiropractic, Dr. Morris could not legally treat animal patients in New York State. Across the border in New Jersey, Dr. Morris could practice on animals with a veterinarian’s referral. Currently no states allow chiropractors to work on animals without a veterinarian’s referral or, as in California, a vet’s supervision.

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Are the approaches of veterinarians who learn chiropractic techniques and chiropractors who learn about veterinary medicine different? Because of their training, chiropractors are likely to have a better understanding of the actual adjustment technique, while veterinarians are more familiar with animal anatomy, handling methods, and specific illnesses.

But it’s more likely that personality traits, interests, experience, and other factors will determine which veterinary chiropractor will best help your dog. The same is true when choosing a chiropractor or healthcare practitioner for yourself.

The AVCA defines a chiropractic adjustment as “a short-lever, high-velocity controlled thrust by hand or instrument that is directed at specific articulations to correct vertebral subluxations.”

“Subluxation” describes the misalignment of vertebrae resulting in a disturbance of normal function. Subluxations may cause animals and people to compensate for resulting pain with changes in posture or movement, such as shifting weight or avoiding certain motions. Secondary subluxations can occur in other parts of the spine as a result, creating complications.

When a vertebral subluxation is diagnosed, the chiropractor re-establishes normal motion with an adjustment. When properly performed, this thrust mobilizes or frees the vertebrae and restores normal function in that spinal segment. As a result, spinal adjustments may reverse a variety of nerve, muscle, and motion problems.

Subluxations can cause abnormal or uneasy posture while standing or sitting, a refusal or unwillingness to go over jumps, the development of unusual behavior patterns such as biting or growling, unusual sensitivity to touch, a lack of coordination or gait abnormality, stiffness on rising, stiffness in lateral movements of the back or neck, muscle atrophy, lameness in hindquarters, abnormal biting or chewing of the coat or tail, increased sensitivity to heat or cold, and limited range of motion.

“The problems that subluxations cause might be visible and obvious, or they may still be developing,” says animal chiropractor Marc L. Sommer, DC, of Pompton Lakes, New Jersey. “We think of the subluxation as the problem, its adjustment as the cure, and the improvement of symptoms as a desired side-effect. Most animals show significant improvement after one to four adjustments.”

In chiropractic examinations, major muscle groups are checked for atrophy, hypertrophy, tone, symmetry, heat, tenderness, and pain. In addition, the spine is palpated and examined for abnormal protuberances, restricted motion, and other unusual features.

Some veterinary chiropractors use only their hands while others employ a small spring-loaded impacting device called an activator to provide mechanical-force, manually assisted adjustments. Both methods have their proponents, and individual preferences vary. (All of the practitioners mentioned here use their bare hands.)

Large and unwieldy devices like mallets or hammers are not needed to adjust even the largest animals, says Dr. Sommer, and they can create more acute and serious conditions. Other procedures that he warns against include the use of excessive force and jerking on the legs or tail. “These practices do not constitute a chiropractic adjustment, and they may exacerbate an already existing injury,” he says. “Remember that skill, not extreme force, is the key to successful adjustments.”

Typical patients
Trauma injuries remain the number one reason for bringing a dog to a veterinary chiropractor.

“When a dog is hurt, it’s important to deal with fractures and internal injuries first,” says Dr. Lesser, “but after that, chiropractic care speeds recovery from any injury, including being hit by a large object like a car, bus, train, or another dog of equal or greater size. Dogs often injure themselves by body slamming, playing bump-and-run, and other canine games. Or they hit a large immoveable object such as a wall while playing ‘magic carpet ride,’ or they fall off the porch, deck, bed, or dog walk, or down a flight of stairs.”

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Among medical maladies, she says, chiropractic adjustments speed recovery from surgery and the use of general anesthesia as well as chronic ear infections, especially those that occur in only one ear, and a host of structural problems.

For example, dogs with hip dysplasia often feel better when adjusted. “While chiropractic cannot cure the bilaterally dysplastic dog, they are more comfortable when the rest of the body moves properly,” says Dr. Lesser. “Dogs with unilateral hip dysplasia in the absence of trauma have sacral-pelvic misalignments that biomechanically stretch the ligaments and joint capsule of the hip. Straightening the dog’s hind end and specifically conditioning the dog will often eliminate unilateral hip dysplasia.”

Chiropractic adjustments can be used to treat persistent lameness, including lameness that does not respond to anti-inflammatory therapy and chronic lameness that is secondary to long-term orthopedic treatment like cruciate ligament surgery. “It might not be the surgically treated elbow or knee that is bugging the dog,” Dr. Lesser explains. “The problem may be the compensations that his body has made since the knee or elbow was injured.”

Disc disease at any spinal level or severity, she cautions, should be treated only in conjunction with conventional or holistic veterinary care. Acupuncture combined with chiropractic care may improve the outcome.

Dogs with arthritis usually respond well to chiropractic adjustments in conjunction with acupuncture and medical therapy, including the use of nutritional supplements such as Glycoflex or Cosequin, says Dr. Lesser. “These treatments can provide the arthritic dog with a better quality of life. Interestingly, dogs with significant arthritic changes seen in their x-rays usually have good mobility in their joints, while older dogs with ‘clean’ x-rays usually have a reduced range of motion.”

Another of Dr. Lesser’s risk categories is what she calls “occupational hazards.”

“Here we have dogs who were playing or working and then became acutely lame. Their lameness usually improves with minimal conventional treatment, but after that the dog is never ‘quite right.’ The category includes all competition dogs at all levels. Any decrease in performance is a symptom, such as a competition dog who isn’t placing or scoring as high as previously, won’t hold a sit/stay, won’t ‘stack’ (hold a pose in the conformation show ring) without shifting, is suddenly slow to retrieve, or simply doesn’t work as well or as enthusiastically as previously.”

Dr. Lesser lists poor leash manners as the number-one cause of cervical (neck) problems, followed by inappropriate leash corrections as the number-two cause. “And then there are all the problems that come with always heeling on only one side in both breed and obedience,” she adds. “Any unilateral activity creates muscle imbalances that can profoundly affect the dog’s gait. For every five minutes that a dog heels on the left, he should heel on the right. Dogs do not have difficulty switching sides; people do. In addition, dogs who routinely turn in one direction while racing out the kitchen door to chase squirrels will exhibit much the same subluxation patterns as dogs who heel only on the left side.”

Dr. Lesser’s final risk category is something she calls “dogs are dogs.” Here she includes any American-bred German Shepherd Dog more than four years of age; dogs who vigorously play ball, Frisbee, and fetch games; dogs who chase squirrels, cats, and other creatures; dogs whose notion of fun is a flying leap into space; dogs who play actively in deep snow, especially those who bound, porpoise, plow, or tunnel; and any dog who has way too much fun.

“While subtle at first,” she says, “over time minor injuries associated with these activities accumulate and your exuberant playmate becomes an ‘old arthritic dog’ well before his time. Then he won’t jump onto the couch or bed, won’t go up or down stairs, won’t jump in or out of the car, and is slow to stand up or lie down.”

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To this list of conditions and symptoms that respond to chiropractic adjustments, the AVCA adds old age, any chronic health problems that do not resolve as expected, and seizures or neurological problems.

 

Chiropractic assessment
What do veterinary chiropractors look for when they first see a patient? Dr. Lesser observes the dog’s posture, as well as his level of alertness when he initially enters the treatment area. Then she has the patient walk with his handler away from and toward her while she checks his tail position, gait, and overall appearance.

“The dog may show a personality change by seeming not as active or happy as usual,” she explains. “He may start snapping or look like he has a headache or an anxious facial expression. The tail might not wag symmetrically, or it may be clamped or held straight out from the body. I look for a rolling motion through the back, which might not be there or it may stop at one point. When I touch the dog, there might be a lumpy or bumpy feeling through the spine, especially near the back of the rib cage. In severe cases, the back may look like a tent. I notice whether the dog’s head is tilted or the dog has trouble turning his head in one direction, including up or down.

“The dog might scuff one foot while gaiting, the hind legs may look stilted, or there can be a lack of symmetry from limb to limb. Most commonly there is a catch or rattle through the shoulder or hock, or differences in muscling. The skin on one area of the back may move or wiggle when touched. One side of the dog’s croup may be higher than the other.”

In contrast, Dr. Lesser explains, “Correctly aligned dogs have a certain presence and glow about them, and they’re so balanced that your eye isn’t drawn to any particular part of the body. If your eye is drawn to the back, pelvis, head, or other part, it’s because something there isn’t moving correctly. Any dog whose appearance invites meticulous analysis of gait should be chiropractically examined.”

Most dogs accept their chiropractic examination and treatment without significant discomfort, and practitioners are trained to use gentle techniques to reduce pain before delivering adjustments. Patients typically show immediate improvement, though adjustments are often followed by 24 to 48 hours of fatigue, and some dogs require several sessions to resolve acute pain and re-establish and maintain normal function of the joints and nervous system.

For your dog’s best treatment response, the AVCA recommends sharing information about her medical history and treatment from all healthcare providers, including diet, supplements, and medications. In addition, be sure you understand the animal chiropractor’s recommendations regarding post-adjustment exercise and home therapy.

 

Trends in canine chiropractic
One of the biggest trends in today’s chiropractic care for animals is the scheduling of monthly appointments for routine maintenance, especially for competition dogs.

“Among performance people,” says Dr. Lesser, “it’s becoming routine to get their dogs adjusted. They have observed that their dogs perform better, stay sounder, have fewer injuries, and in general are ‘healthier’ as a result. My clients have repeatedly commented that their dogs are living longer and with better quality of life in their golden years. Whether that’s due strictly to chiropractic or a combination of chiropractic and better awareness of nutrition, conditioning, and training, I can’t say for sure, but I always feel that I’m part of the team that helps Rover feel better and do better.”

Dr. Lesser, who has taken so many workshops that she calls herself a chiropractic education junkie, recently completed a Master’s Degree in Advanced Neurology of Veterinary Spinal Manipulative Therapy (VSMT), a post-graduate program offered by the Healing Oasis Wellness Center in Sturtevant, Wisconsin.

“My first research paper for this course,” she says, “evaluated whether dogs improve their appearance after an adjustment. According to my panel of experts (two conformation judges and an expert on canine structure) and my professional colleagues in the advanced class, an adjustment does definitely improve the posture and therefore the appearance of dogs.

“My second paper is titled ‘Why Dogs Should Dance: The Neurobiology of Music and Canine Freestyle.’ I have observed through the years that the highest-level freestyle dogs are the most superb athletes in my five-state practice. So I asked the question, ‘Why is that?’ One hundred seventy pages later, I think I found the answer. In a very small way, it’s the canine version of This Is Your Brain on Music, by Daniel J. Levitin, or Musicophilia, by Oliver Sacks.” (For ordering information, see “Resources Mentioned in This Article,” below.)

What is her most interesting or exciting discovery about canine chiropractic? “This question makes me laugh,” she says, “because fellow VSMT practitioners and I are always exclaiming, ‘Hey, this stuff really works!’ Seventeen years ago I took the training to become certified in veterinary chiropractic and was amazed that by mobilizing the joints to move as they should, many positive things happened to the dog’s body.

“Now I’m amazed even more by the changes that result from receptor-based therapy, which is the manipulation of the nervous system through chiropractic adjustments and specific challenges to the senses, such as vision, hearing, smell, proprioceptors, etc. Yes, this neuro stuff really works. The wonderful thing about doing the new receptor-based therapy work, which I consider the cutting edge of canine chiropractic, is that the owners are intimately involved with the therapy homework. If they follow through with the prescribed exercises, incredibly positive changes can and do occur.”

Will your dog benefit from chiropractic? The growing number of qualified practitioners, satisfied clients, and well-adjusted dogs suggest that this hands-on approach to health and healing may improve almost any dog’s quality of life.

 

CJ Puotinen is author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and other books (see “Resources,” page 24 for purchasing information). She lives in New York with her husband, a Labrador, and a tabby cat.

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Five Accupressure Points for Your Dog’s Health

Like all mammals, dogs require the same basic constituents that their ancestors did in ancient times. Though dogs have been re-designed by human needs over the centuries, their need for proper food, exercise, rest, play, social interaction, and touch remain the same.

In Chinese medicine, health and emotional well-being are considered to be highly dependent on lifestyle, which can be further supported by acupuncture or acupressure and herbs.

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From the perspective of this ancient medicine, everything is “medicine.” Health is defined as both an internal and external balance of nutrients and energy so that the human and dog alike can function within its environment. The Chinese were interested in how the living body maintains health, thus preventing illness, from season to season and location to location. The goal is to help the body adapt to constant environmental change.

To achieve this goal consistently, Chinese medicine incorporates the “Five Branches,” or stems, as a guide to balance and health. The Five Branches are:

• Food

• Acupuncture/Acupressure

• Tui Na (Chinese meridian massage)

• Chi Gong (exercise)

• Herbs

Species-appropriate food is essential. Exercise and body movement to enliven energy is absolutely necessary. All mammals need to be touched so that the body receives sensory, caring stimulation.

To support the effectiveness of a balanced lifestyle, dog guardians can provide acupressure that corresponds directly with the Five Branches of Chinese medicine. Only holistic veterinarians are allowed to prescribe herbal supplements in most western countries, but as dog guardians we can enhance how well herbs are metabolized by using acupressure. The same is true with acupuncture; only trained veterinarians (or a trained acupuncturist working under the supervision of a veterinarian) can legally perform acupuncture since it is invasive. Guardians, however, can readily offer acupressure for similar effect.

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The Five Branches of Chinese medicine offer a model for living a long, full, and healthy life. The intention underlying the Five Branches is for the animal to remain energetically balanced no matter what the season, the animal’s stage within the canine life cycle, or whether living in a generally cold or hot environment. A dog’s health is dependent on his body’s ability to adapt, and given the right “ingredients,” all dogs can thrive.

An older dog has different requirements for exercise than a younger dog, for instance, but both need exercise to be healthy. In the winter, according to traditional Chinese medicine, a dog needs to retain body heat and should not exercise as exuberantly as he can in the other seasons. This is about paying attention to the animal within the context of the current environment and supporting the dog’s ability to adapt. Each of the Five Branches provides the day-to-day constituents of health.

Acupressure points and the Five Branches
There are specific acupressure points that every dog guardian can use to maintain their dog’s health and further support the animal’s lifestyle.

The first acupressure point, also called “acupoint,” addresses the first essential branch of Chinese medicine (food) as well as the absorption of herbs. The second acupoint identified supports Chi Gong, or body movement and exercise. The Third point relates to Tui Na (pronounced “Tway Nah,” original Chinese meridian massage, which offers calming and mental clarity). The fourth acupoint supports the dog’s overall immune system. And the fifth point is commonly used in health emergencies.

■Stomach 36 (ST 36), Leg 3 Mile, is the “master point” for the gastrointestinal tract and is known to enhance the function of digestion and absorption process, so that the body can break down nutrients from food and herbs, making them bioavailable for absorption.

■Gall Bladder 34 (GB 34), Yang Mound Spring, is the “influential point” for strengthening and increasing the flexibility of tendons and ligaments. Though dogs are cave animals and usually stretch after resting and before exercising, GB 34 maintains the body’s ability to move by keeping the tendons and ligaments supple. Stimulating this point will help minimize physical injuries. This point is known to support emotional balance as well.

■Heart 7 (HT 7), Spirit’s Gate, offers the dog’s heart original, essential energy so that his mind can attain clarity and his emotional state can be generally calm. This point can be used with any stressful situation for your dog.

■Large Intestine 11 (LI 11), Crooked Pond, is known as a powerful immune system strengthening point. LI 11 is a “tonification point”; it enhances the flow of blood and energy throughout the body. It is part of most health-maintenance acupressure protocols.

■Governing Vessel 26 (GV 26), Middle of Man (Dog), promotes resuscitation and consciousness and is often used during a seizure and for traumatic emergencies especially when there is a loss of consciousness. This point is often included in canine first aid courses since it can be used to keep a dog alive while on the way to veterinary care.

These five acupoints are gifts from ancient medicine that we can offer our dogs so that their lives will be filled with optimal physical and emotional health. Sitting down with your dog once a week and slowly holding these points on both sides of his body will go a long way to letting him know how much you treasure his life.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of TheWell-ConnectedDog:AGuidetoCanineAcupressure,Acu-Cat:AGuidetoFelineAcupressure,and EquineAcupressure:AWorkingManual. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers meridian charts and acupressure DVDs for dogs, cats, and horses. They are also founders of Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, offering hands-on and online training courses worldwide, including a Practitioner Certification Program. See animalacupressure.com or call (888) 841-7211 for more information.

Healing Your Canine with Energy Medicine and Holistic Dog Care Techniques

Can exposure to color change your health? What about tapping on key acupuncture points or other body parts? And is there any way to focus or concentrate naturally occurring energy so that it has a more therapeutic effect?

Veterinarians and other healthcare practitioners who experiment with energy healing deal with these and related questions when they address the “etheric body,” the invisible part of the patient that is also described as the vital or energy body. Improving the etheric body’s energy flow or state, they say, stimulates a self-healing mechanism that encourages the body to repair itself, often in record time.

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In the past four issues, we’ve described a number of “energy medicine” tools such as homeopathy, flower essences, Reiki, crystals, acupuncture, and therapeutic touch. In this article, the conclusion of this series, we’ll describe several more modalities that can be used alone or in combination with conventional or alternative therapies and are widely considered to be free from adverse side effects.

Healing with color
When photobiologist John Ott pioneered time-lapse photography, he discovered the vital role that full-spectrum natural light plays in the development of plants and animals. He also discovered that color can have a profound effect at the cellular level.

Whenever he photographed living cells under electron microscopes, Ott noticed that changing the color filters on his camera lens changed the cells’ behavior. When he was hired to document the effects of pharmaceutical drugs on living cells, lens color changes had a more dramatic effect on the cells than the drugs did.

In animal research, prolonged exposure to a single color has caused female reproductive problems, fur loss, toxic symptoms, digestive disorders, male sterility, abnormal bone development, abnormal body weight, and cataracts.

However, short-term exposure to colors has had the opposite effect. In the late 19th century, English physicians discovered that exposure to light of different colors caused measurable improvements to their patients. Years later, scientists in Europe and elsewhere explored the ways in which exposure to color influences health. In the United States, color was a popular healing therapy until the 1940s and ’50s, when lobbying efforts by conventional physicians convinced the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to make the use and sale of medical color projection equipment illegal.

Many physicians will tell you that color therapy is still on the fringes of modern medicine, but look at some of the applications used today:

• Maternity wards of major hospitals routinely use blue light to treat neonatal jaundice.

• NASA uses red light to speed the healing of injuries in space.

• The U.S. Navy uses colored light to treat injuries.

• Medical research shows that blue light suppresses the metastasis of melanoma cells in mice, red light has anti-inflammatory effects, and full-spectrum light, which contains all colors, is a successful treatment for depression caused by seasonal affective disorder.

• Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are common in medical devices that relieve pain and fight infection with red, blue, and other colors.

William Campbell Douglass, MD, was newly interested in color treatments when a patient came to him with a large ulcer on the side of her leg. The ulcer was half an inch deep and full of pus – and had plagued the patient for five years. She had tried salves, antibiotics, and various surgical interventions (debridement or scraping) with no improvement.

Bichon Frise

Julianne Bien

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As he describes in his book Color Me Healthy, Dr. Douglass treated the ulcer by shining indigo light on it. The patient continued this therapy at home twice a day, one hour at a time, and soon new skin covered the open sore. Within a week she was free from pain for the first time since the ulcer developed, and six weeks after her initial treatment she returned to show Dr. Douglass a leg that had almost completely healed.

“I know it’s hard to believe,” he says, “but color therapy really works. And not just for external wounds. It also works for many internal ailments at which modern medicine just throws useless drugs and surgery.”

Many veterinarians, ophthalmologists, and other healthcare professionals who treat patients with color follow the guidelines of the Dinshah Health Society, which publishes books and instructions for using Spectro-chrome equipment consisting of color filter material and a light source such as a slide projector, lamp, flashlight, or the sun.

Each color has its own wavelength and frequency. Red, orange, and yellow are stimulating; green is said to bring the body into balance; and blue, indigo, and violet are at the calming or sedating end of the spectrum. The Spectro-chrome system also uses lemon, turquoise, purple, magenta, and scarlet. As explained in Darius Dinshah’s book Let There Be Light, every physical condition has its own protocol or sequence of color treatments, and drinking water can be treated with color for internal and external application.

A more elaborate and expensive color therapy system is the Lumalight, developed by Spectrahue Light & Sound, which shines light through mineral-based glass color lenses.

Rainbow of benefits
Lynn Younger, who lives in Sedona, Arizona, has worked with dogs and other animals for 10 years using “colorpuncture,” a European modality of acupuncture that substitutes concentrated Lumalight for acupuncture needles. “I’ve treated thousands of canines, most commonly for painful conditions like arthritis or hip dysplasia, infections, and emotional issues,” says Younger. “Usually the animals present with conditions that have been treated by conventional veterinary medicine without success, and the application of color almost always triggers improvement.”

Ojito, a Chow-mix belonging to Eliza-beth Heaney of Tucson, Arizona, pinched a nerve in her back and was in too much pain to eat or drink for three days. “About 15 minutes into her color treatment,” says Heaney, “Ojito abruptly stood up and began to drink from her water dish. By the end of the treatment she was eating hungrily. The change was remarkable, from barely lifting her head to walking around and wagging her tail. She’s been fine ever since.”

A fungal infection called Valley Fever is a serious problem in Arizona, and when it settled in her lungs, Kali, a nine-year-old Wheaten Terrier, coughed as often as 20 times a minute. “She did not respond to prescription drugs,” says her owner, L. Enlow, “but color therapy stopped her coughing, and a chest X-ray taken after a few months of ongoing color treatments showed that the virus was greatly reduced.”

Color therapy doesn’t have to involve elaborate equipment, says Younger. “You can tonate water in colored glass jars or bottles simply by placing them in the sun. For a dog with arthritis, you could keep water in a red glass container and then apply it as a spray or wash. You could also have the dog lie on a red towel. There are many ways to expose dogs to color. In my experience, animals respond much more quickly to color therapy than humans do. They don’t try to figure out whether or how it works. They just enjoy it.”

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Annie, a 16-year-old Bichon Frise belonging to Linda McGuire in Wethersfield, Connecticut, seems to enjoy her Spectro-chrome tonations. “She goes right for the light and lies under it for her snooze,” McGuire says. “The colors help with her kidney disease and other symptoms, and she actually positions herself for best results. Animals are so smart! My vet doesn’t want to know the details, but he says I should keep doing whatever I’m doing because it’s working so well.”

Pamela Fisher, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in North Canton, Ohio, has treated almost a hundred canine patients with Lumalight color during the past year, most of them for skin, digestive, emotional, or respiratory problems.

“When cooling blues are applied to hot spots or other inflamed skin conditions,” she says, “there is an instant calming and skin color change, from red and irritated to more normal, which starts the healing process.”

Color therapy tonations usually last half an hour to an hour, but Dr. Fisher‘s single-color Lumalight treatments seldom take more than a few seconds. “The results are actually that fast,” she says.

One of Dr. Fisher’s patients is Michael, a 16-year-old West Highland White Terrier belonging to Lyn Sabino of Canton, Ohio, who has chronic lung problems. His bronchial dilating medication was recently changed by another veterinarian, and after two doses on the new medicine, he grew weak and struggled for breath.

“His condition was serious,” says Dr. Fisher, “and it was getting worse. I applied cooling blue color to his chest and heart area, and within a few seconds his labored breathing calmed and the color of his mucous membranes improved, becoming more pink due to better oxygenation. He continued to improve, and I sent him home with color-treated water for continued application.”

Dr. Fisher reports that separation anxiety, thunder phobia, fears, incessant barking, inappropriate urination, and other emotional or behavioral issues also respond quickly to color therapy.

BodyTalk and AnimalTalk
Australian chiropractor John Veltheim, an expert in applied kinesiology, acupuncture, Reiki, osteopathy, sports medicine, counseling, and philosophy, combined all of these interests when he developed Body-Talk, a system in which the practitioner uses muscle testing (kinesiology) to ask the client’s body specific questions about what parts need treatment first. This approach, says Dr. Veltheim, is what sets BodyTalk apart from other healing systems and makes every BodyTalk session unique.

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Once the initial organ or body part has been identified, the practitioner asks a series of yes or no questions to discover what that part needs, such as a link to a specific gland or organ. As soon as the link is identified, the practitioner uses gentle hand contact and tapping to correct imbalances and speed healing.

“Lightly tapping on the skull,” says Dr. Veltheim, “seems to activate the brain centers in a way that causes the brain to consciously reevaluate the state of health in the bodymind. Tapping on the heart completes the process by sending patterns of energy and information to every cell in the body.”

Five years ago, Ange Trenga of Missoula, Montana, became a BodyTalk instructor and practitioner for people and animals. AnimalTalk is a version of BodyTalk designed for pets and other animals.

One AnimalTalk client had a six-year-old Golden Retriever with severe skin problems. The dog’s skin was raw all over her body, says Trenga, “especially on her belly and in her ears, and it was made worse by her constant itching, chewing, and licking. She was losing huge chunks of fur. She was also dehydrated because she refused to drink water. The first thing that happened when we started tapping was that she ran into the kitchen and drank several bowls of water.”

Using kinesiology, Trenga determined that the dog was reacting to corn in her food, grass outside, and several cleaning products in the house. She used AnimalTalk to strengthen the dog’s immune system, and when she returned two weeks later, the dog’s fur had grown back, her skin looked normal, her chewing had completely stopped, and the itching had almost disappeared. After their second session, the dog needed no further treatment.

“One of the things that I love about AnimalTalk,” she says, “is that you don’t have to work with the dog every week for a year. In most cases, two to four sessions correct the problem, and the dog’s body holds the memory of these adjustments so that no additional treatment is needed.” Trenga has used AnimalTalk to help dogs recover from accidents and injuries.

AnimalTalk training used to be available only to BodyTalk practitioners, but now pet lovers with no BodyTalk experience can take AnimalTalk workshops that demonstrate basic techniques for dealing with pet health problems, behavioral issues, and emergencies.

“Anyone can learn it, including kids,” says Trenga, who teaches AnimalTalk around the world. “It is a wonderful support therapy that’s compatible with veterinary care, and it can even neutralize old fears and traumas. My favorite example of this is a dog who was terrified of going out of the house because he had been attacked years before by another dog. The sight of his leash made him cower and tremble, and when he went outside to eliminate, he didn’t waste a minute and raced back in. At the end of our single session, he explored his backyard without any fear, and when his owner took him for a walk, he was completely relaxed and confident. It was as though the attack had never happened, and his fear has never returned.”

Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT)
Gary Craig isn’t a trainer or veterinarian. In fact, he doesn’t even have a dog. But his acupressure tapping procedure called EFT (Emotional Freedom Techniques) has transformed the lives of countless dogs and their human companions.

EFT is one of several meridian therapies, so called because they are said to release blocks along the same energy paths used in acupuncture. According to Craig, the combination of focused thought and acupressure tapping releases energy blocks that contribute to behavioral problems, anxiety, pain, or illness while simultaneously releasing their underlying emotional causes.

Meridian therapies are often complicated, but EFT is so easy to use that small children teach it to one another. “Don’t let its simplicity fool you,” says Craig. “It’s used by thousands of healthcare practitioners, including medical doctors and veterinarians. In many cases, chronic and acute symptoms have resolved in a matter of minutes.”

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EFT’s tapping points and basic protocol are clearly described in the free EFT manual that is distributed online in 19 languages, and Craig’s inexpensive seminar DVDs provide impressive demonstrations. EFT classes and workshops are taught in several countries, and more than 50 books by a variety of authors describe the technique. These are remarkable statistics for a procedure that is only 10 years old.

Animals can be treated directly, by tapping on their acupuncture meridians while focusing on their condition, or they can be treated surrogately, by proxy. That is, you can tap on yourself while focusing on the dog.

Catherine O’Driscoll, an EFT practitioner in Scotland, did this with her Golden Retriever, Sophie, who had suffered from arthritis for several years.

“We helped her with nutrition, herbs, homeopathy, and acupuncture, but the arthritis never completely went away,” she says. “Finally, when she was 14, her front paws swelled up and knotted so much that they became deformed. I tapped on myself for her, and I couldn’t believe my eyes. The paws went down as though they were balloons letting out air. It was like a horror story special effect in reverse.

“I didn’t trust myself not to have imagined it,” O’Driscoll continues, “but Sophie was good enough to manifest the swollen paws a few weeks later while my sister was visiting. I again tapped for her while my sister and husband looked on. Again, we saw the swelling subside in front of our eyes. Sophie lived to the grand age of 17, and her arthritis never returned. She had also become deaf by age 14, but thanks to this wonderful energy therapy, she was able to hear again for the last years of her life.”

Christina Bequette, an EFT practitioner in Deer Trail, Colorado, first tried the technique with Stella, a 14-year-old Australian Shepherd/Red Heeler mix belonging to Patty Kemp-Cobb in Carbondale, Colorado. Stella constantly whined and pressed her head and body against Kemp-Cobb. “She had a reputation for biting and didn’t like to be touched,” says Bequette, “so I expected resistance, but Stella willingly let me tap on her, as if she knew I was there to help.”

Bequette focused on thoughts of not being loved, having things to say, and being ignored, and whatever else she could think of that might be a factor. “The best result came after I referred to the issue of Stella feeling invisible despite being recognized for her excellence as a cattle dog. The session lasted about 20 minutes, and to everyone’s astonishment, Stella quit whining. Not only that, but from then on she acted much more gentle and loving, no longer snapping or biting when touched. It was quite exciting to her human family, and now, two years later, they still talk about her transformation. Stella is almost 16, and her whining habit never came back.”

In 2002, California artist Lee Lawson was bothered by a neighbor’s dog, who barked all night, every night, for months. “The neighbor claimed not to hear it,” she says, “and so it went on and on and on. Then one night I did EFT on the situation. I focused on being a vibrational match to the barking dog, deeply and completely loving and accepting myself and the dog. The barking stopped immediately. About three hours later it started again and I tapped again. It stopped, and that was the last time the dog barked at night.”

Lawson also used surrogate tapping when she got a new puppy for everything from housebreaking (immediately accomplished) to sleeping through the night (which a single EFT treatment took care of). “I even used EFT to get her to pee on command after she noodled around for 15 minutes in the freezing cold,” says Lawson. “I’d start a single round of tapping for this and she would go before I could finish.”

Dozens of EFT practitioners in the U.S., Canada, Europe, South America, Asia, and Australia responded to my online requests for reports about how EFT has helped their dogs. They described EFT’s success with treating asthma, diabetes, heart disease, arthritis, kennel cough, injuries, and other physical ailments, as well as how rescued dogs adjusted to their new homes; how dogs who began fighting when a beloved family member moved out live in harmony again; how dogs overcame their fear of vacuum cleaners, thunder, and fireworks; how formerly aggressive dogs now stay calm and focused; and how competition dogs overcame physical or training problems to win their events.

Zero Energy Balancing (ZEB)
Three years ago, agility competitor Melissa Chandler of Galena, Ohio, suffered injuries in a car accident that hindered her mobility. She was referred to a massage therapist who used Zero Energy Balancing, or ZEB.

“I was amazed at how much this helped, and I purchased a ZEB unit for myself,” she says. “Then I learned about how the ZEB helps dogs from my holistic veterinarians, as they both use it in their practice.”

The ZEB, a tube of extruded plastic pipe containing diodes, was invented by retired aerospace engineer Cliff Stumbaugh. It comes in several models costing $150 to $450, the most popular of which is the $250 Ultimate Biofield ZEB, which Stumbaugh describes as an all-purpose energy device with a frequency range of 8Hz – 650Hz. “Its usage is ideal for balancing meridians and chakras, breaking up energy blockages, correcting general body dysfunctions, and using biofield resonance therapy,” he says. “It has an automatic mode of operation and comes complete with three auto-program modules.”

There are no moving parts in the ZEB, and it has no power source other than the naturally occurring energy that flows around it. “ZEB has a bioplasma radiation field around it comparable to a magnet,” the inventor explains. “It perpetuates itself by circulating plasma energy around itself from the output back to its input in one continuous process.”

What exactly is zero energy balance? According to Stumbaugh, a healthy human or animal biofield consists of flowing, unpolarized bioplasmic cells. When the biofield is blocked, negative, polarized bioplasmic cells exist. “The ZEB’s energy beam network attracts the negative bioplasmic cells from the subject’s biofield and accelerates these through the ZEB unit via its tuned cavity ring-down processor. Here the negative, polarized bioplasmic cells are depolarized and discharged out of the unit, thus creating a zero balance.” (And this is one of the manual’s simplest explanations!)

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“I use the ZEB on my dogs daily,” says Chandler. “You can use it to prevent injuries from becoming chronic problems, help with autoimmune and endocrine dysfunctions, assist digestion, treat diarrhea or constipation, test foods and supplements, and speed the healing of wounds or surgical incisions. The ZEB can be used to rid the system of pathogens, bacteria, and viruses.”

Programming the ZEB involves sticking a small note on one side of the tube and placing a cotton swab saliva sample from the person or animal being treated on the other. The note can list one or more numbers from the accompanying frequency/vector manual, or you can simply write the desired result in a circle. Then you move the tube over the affected body part for 10 to 15 seconds or, to treat the entire body, leave it next to the resting patient for 10 to 30 minutes.

This procedure is so unusual, it’s downright weird. Can it possibly work?

Betsey Lynch of Delaware, Ohio, believes it does. “I am an avid agility participant,” she says. “I bought my first ZEB in January 2005, prior to which two of my holistic vets used the ZEB on my dogs. I now have four ZEBs and use them all every day on my four Cavaliers and one Papillon to help with muscle repair and recovery from training and competition.”

Lynch’s current agility star is six-year-old Trouble. “Trouble has syringomyelia, or SM, which is a neurological condition that affects Cavaliers and some other toy breeds,” she says. “With daily use of the ZEB, Trouble has been able to run successfully and remain an active and happy little dog. I keep one ZEB dedicated to distance healing of the SM alone and believe it has kept her symptoms from progressing.”

Jan Knode in Apple Creek, Ohio, has been styling dogs since 1989, teaching and training in agility since 2001, and competing since 2002. She uses the ZEB to treat pain and injuries, eradicate skin parasites, and treat yeast infections.

“Last July a holistic vet who does energy work used the ZEB on my seven-year-old Doberman,” says Knode. “My girl was very sick and slept almost all the time. After the vet used the ZEB on her, for about an hour, off and on, Sere played in the van all the way home! Her body began to heal and she felt great. Since then, she has a lot more energy for agility and playing ball and Frisbee. It’s so nice to have my girl back.”

The ZEB is one of several devices that are said to correct physical and emotional conditions by concentrating or redirecting energy. From what we can determine, especially because it does not plug into an electrical outlet, use batteries, or have an external power source, the ZEB is unlikely to cause harm. Like the other energy therapies described here and in the four preceding articles in this “energy medicine” series, it might work or it might do nothing, but either way, it isn’t likely to damage the patient.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent Whole Dog Journal contributor, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. She is also an EFT instructor and practitioner.

New and Improved

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Every year in February, we review dry dog foods, and attempt, in the process, to teach owners a little more about pet foods and the pet food industry. Last February, we discussed in detail the phrase “complete and balanced” that adorns the labels of most (not all) dry commercial foods, explaining how products with highly disparate nutrient levels could all be considered “complete and balanced.” We also talked about the different methods by which a company can earn the right to make the “complete and balanced” claim: feeding trials, nutrient levels, or the “family” method.

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This year, with the memory of the 2007 pet food recalls still fresh in our minds, we are emphasizing pet food company transparency and its value to pet owners. In the past, we’ve asked pet food companies to disclose to us, not for publication, where their products were manufactured – mostly as a lever to pry more information out of them about their ingredient sourcing and quality assurance programs. Following the 2007 recalls, and the months of uncertainty about ingredient and product safety, we decided this was not enough.

For this year’s review, we required each company who, in the past, had a product on our “approved dry dog food” list to divulge, for publication, information about their manufacturing sites. As a reward, we gave the participants – the ones that were still talking to us at this point! – the opportunity to make a short statement about their companies and products. You should find the statements very interesting and diverse.

Another big change to our 2008 dry food review: We pulled all the grain-free varieties out of this category. There are enough of them on the market today that we are going to give them their very own review next month. This way, we’ll be able to examine the varied approaches that different companies have taken in order to make a grain-free food. These approaches have led to quite disparate nutrient levels in the product offerings – higher protein and fat, of course, but also some significant differences in the vitamin, mineral, and fatty acid profiles of the finished products.

Our Training Editor, Pat Miller, took the opportunity this month to “bust” some dog behavior myths. I’ve spent quite a bit of time in puppy training classes (mostly with a camera, though, not a puppy!). Trust me when I say that many (most?) owners ask questions in class that clearly reveal that they are laboring under many misconceptions about the dogs with whom they share their homes. Want to raise a positive trainer’s blood pressure? Just start a conversation and drop the following phrases:

“He knows better!”
“He’s jumping up on me because he’s dominant, right?”
“My dog is stubborn!”
“I spanked him to let him know who the alpha dog is in the house.”
“She pees in my bedroom when I’ve stayed out too late; she’s spiteful.”

In case you’re not sure why these would get a trainer worked up, check out “Canine Mythbusting” on page 12.

-Nancy Kerns

Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 Dry Dog Food Review

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Transparency. That’s what the pet food recalls of early 2007 taught us to value in a pet food company. In the aftermath of that event, we received hundreds of accounts from concerned owners who were understandably scared and unnecessarily frustrated when they tried to get information about their pets’ food. Some companies “got it,” and responded immediately with up-to-the-minute updates with pertinent information about their products on their websites and recorded messages on their toll-free phone lines. In our view, the best ones were the companies that stated immediately where their foods were made, where their ingredients came from, and what they were doing to ensure their products were safe.

But many other companies stonewalled, insisting that their products were safe but refusing to offer any corroborating evidence! Even faced with grievously sick cats or dogs, many owners could not get any useful information from the pet food companies whose products they used.

This may be business as usual for large, conglomerate pet food makers; goodness knows it’s certainly true of most processed human food makers. But when a dog owner pays in the area of $2 a pound (or more) for what is marketed as the healthiest dog food on earth, it stings to learn that its maker won’t so much as return a phoned or e-mailed inquiry about its ingredients – especially when a dog or cat is fighting for its life in a veterinary hospital.

The weeks following the initial recall brought new disclosures about foreign-sourced ingredients, and some disparities between the ingredients listed on food labels and what the products actually contained. That’s when I decided that Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 dog food reviews would include only those products that met our usual selection criteria (see page 5) and met at least a minimum standard of transparency.

Manufacturing info:
What it can tell you

I’ve found that one fairly reliable indicator of a pet food company’s willingness to disclose information about their products to consumers is whether or not they will discuss their manufacturing location – although this is a recent phenomenon.

In 1997, my first year of reviewing dog food, none of the pet food company executives I interviewed would discuss their manufacturing location; historically, this was status quo for the industry. “That’s proprietary information,” they’d say, even if all of their competitors knew exactly where their products were made. Several developments in the past decade have changed this.

First was the establishment and growth of a “super premium” sector of the pet food market. Twenty years ago, most dog foods were pretty similar; all contained meat by-products and tons of grain. Trends toward “peak nutrition,” evolutionary diets, and holistic medicine trickled down into the world of companion animals, and a few, small, innovative companies started making products that contained more and higher-quality animal products. The success of these products, both in sales and actual performance in the dogs who ate them, led to rapid growth of this specialized niche of the pet food market.

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As it grew in market share, the “super premium” sector became increasingly competitive. Companies have been going to greater lengths to find and utilize better and/or more novel ingredients to use (and feature in their advertising).

They’ve also sought out other unique and beneficial features to incorporate into their formulation, manufacture, packaging, and even corporate behavior to help their products stand out. Initially, the decision of some to disclose information about ingredient sourcing, product manufacturing, quality assurance (QA) processes, and other bits of previously secret processes was probably as much an effort to gain a marketing edge as it was a tool to increase consumer confidence.

Whatever a company’s motivation for disclosing detailed information about its products, the consumer wins. I’ve long appreciated companies that have educated personnel readily available and willing to communicate with consumers about their products. It’s even better when the company has a veterinarian available who can discuss the company’s products and a consumer’s dog’s digestion or other health problems in detail.

Of course, it’s easy for company reps to mislead consumers who inquire about things they really don’t know much about. During the 2007 recalls, it was only when frightened pet owners sought information from pet food makers, and shared this information with each other, that a number of companies were caught being disingenuous. This is another reason why I decided to make company transparency a new criterion for Whole Dog Journal’s food reviews, and also publish the results. Who would release false information where all your competitors are sure to read about it?

Why you need to know more than just the food’s maker
I’ve just told you why the disclosure of a food’s manufacturer should be part of a pet owner’s selection process. Here are some reasons why this information should never be used as a sole selection criterion.

Large pet food manufacturers may make dozens (if not hundreds) of different products, formulated for a wide range of price points and using ingredients from a wide span of quality. And if a plant makes products for other companies, even the QA processes used during manufacture for different clients may be very different. The name of the maker alone is simply not enough to guarantee quality or confirm a lack thereof.

Known variously as “private label manufacturers,” “contract manufacturers,” or “co-packers,” production facilities make foods for other companies – and make them according to their clients’ specifications. Co-packers generally specialize in the manufacture of a certain type of product (extruded, baked, canned), and may actually manufacture many competing brands within a category.

The most discriminating clients specify everything in their contracts, requiring their co-packer to use only specific ingredient sources and perform extraordinary quality-assurance procedures, and paying for independent, third-party audits of the manufacturing process. (Of course, all of this results in higher costs for clients and consumers.)

Companies that sell lower-quality, low-cost products generally have much less stringent contracts with their co-packers. Often, they allow the manufacturer to source ingredients, since the co-packer can usually purchase ingredients at a lower price, given that they often buy in quantities large enough to use in several clients’ products. Clients with low-cost products usually specify only that the product contain the ingredients it is supposed to and that the finished product meets the specified nutrient levels spelled out in the product’s “guaranteed analysis” – and it’s up to the co-packer to accomplish this for an agreed-upon price. As we saw in the 2007 contaminated gluten recalls, this type of arrangement may set the stage for disaster, as the co-packer tries to find the least-expensive source of ingredients that meet the client’s specs.

This is how different products that I would characterize as the highest and the lowest quality may come from the same manufacturing plant. This also explains why some very good products made at the Menu Foods (one of North America’s largest co-packers of canned pet foods) were completely untouched by the recalls, and so many low-cost “store brands” made there were recalled.

Unfortunately, many underinformed, alarmist (or simply alarmed) pet owners conclude that if a problem occurs at a plant, every product that originates at that plant (from then on) is unsafe. Early in the 2007 recalls, when the affected foods were thought to originate only at Menu Foods, many pet owners got the idea that all foods made at Menu must be unsafe. (And the hysteria went further; some concluded that if a company had one food made at Menu, that all the other company’s foods, made elsewhere, must also be contaminated.)

This sort of reactionary conclusion has made many pet food company executives far less forthcoming about their products’ origins. Many companies stonewalled consumers in the face of the recall, and have since returned to a policy of nondisclosure, to prevent being unfairly associated with the recalls.

I have sympathy for companies that disclose all sorts of details about their products yet decline to state their manufacturer to preserve a genuinely exclusive relationship with a small co-packer. This feeling is tempered, however, by real distaste for the companies that hide behind the “proprietary information” excuse for refusing to disclose practically anything about their ingredient sourcing or quality, manufacturing, QA, product testing, etc., even as they allege their products to be of the “finest quality.” In my opinion, that’s competing in the high-end sector of the pet food market on false pretenses.

What you should ask
So, while I value the willingness of a company to tell you where its products are made, this should be only the start of the information-sharing between consumers and a top-shelf pet food company.

By the way, companies that have their own manufacturing plants should not get a pass on these questions; distant clients may scrutinize a co-packer more thoroughly than a company owner! All companies, whether they own their plants or hire contract manufacturers, should be equally forthcoming about their manufacturing arrangements and the following:

■Product formulation (Who developed the formula, and what are his/her credentials? Can a consumer examine a list of all the product’s nutrient levels?)

■Ingredients (Do they source all their own ingredients? Can they provide full traceability on each ingredient used in their products? Are any of their products imported? Which ones and from where?)

■QA processes (Does the plant have an on-site lab, and what can it test for? Is an outside lab used to confirm these findings and independent tests? How often are samples pulled for testing? How often do your own employees visit your co-packer? Do your plants follow a hazard analysis and critical control point [HACCP] food safety program? Do you use third-party auditors to monitor your co-packers – or even your own facility?

■Available support (If I feed my dog your food and he gets sick, what support will you be able to provide for me?)

Our usual business
On the following pages are products that meet not only our long-standing criteria for food selection (see sidebar, below) but also our new standard of transparency. We’ve listed the makers of all our “approved” products. A few foods that were previously on our lists did not meet our new standard; these are noted in the chart on page 4.

We’ve included more information about the products appearing on our “approved foods” list than ever. We’ve noted which contact information is available on the packaging: Phone, mail, website? We appreciate easy-to-read (not coded) “best by” dates on packaging; we like it even more when the manufacturing date is also provided, so consumers can determine the food’s precise degree of freshness. Our charts note which foods include this feature.

We’ve also discussed the benefits of an expanded “guaranteed analysis” (GA) on a product label. Federal and state laws require only four nutrient levels (minimum levels of protein and fat, maximum levels of fiber and moisture) to be present, but anything that appears in the GA is subject to testing by state feed control officials; failures are subject to disciplinary action. We’ve noted which “extra” nutrients are included on our approved products’ GA.

For the first time, we offered the food companies whose products we included on our “approved dry foods” list to submit a short statement about their products. We invited them to reference the sourcing of their ingredients, the testing and oversight they provide – whatever they wanted, as long as the statement was 150 words or less. That seemed excessively short to them, and just about right to us, until we received 31 statements (and not all of them kept under the limit!). We had to edit and trim them to make them all fit, and even so, these next six pages are looking pretty grey; there wasn’t any way we could use the photos we took of each package!

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Please note that we did not fact-check or seek to verify the information provided by the companies for these statements; if you have questions, please do contact the companies and quiz them for more detail. By participating in this year’s review, each company has demonstrated an above-average willingness to provide corporate transparency.

Keep in mind, as ever, that the foods on our list are not the only good foods on the market! The list is offered as a starting place and for its value as a comparison to products you may find in your area. Use our list of selection criteria, below, to evaluate the brand of dog food you buy.

Also note that we have presented the foods on our list in alphabetic order by company. We do not “rank order” foods or say which ones are “best,” because what’s “best” for every dog is different.

The proof is in the pudding. If your dog does not thrive on the food, with a glossy coat, itch-free skin, bright eyes, clear ears, and a happy, alert demeanor, it doesn’t matter whether we like it or not – switch! If your dog’s health or attitude sours under the influence of a certain food, stop feeding it, note the ingredients, and find another food that contains different ingredients. Keep notes! Sometimes it takes years to find products that really suit your dog.

Analyzing Dog Behavior and Puppy Behavior

[Updated March 18, 2016]

Hang with dog folks long enough and you’re sure to hear some pretty interesting theories about dog behavior. Some are, of course, useful and accurate, but the dog training world is littered with myths, many of which are at least several generations old. Some of them are just silly; some have the potential for causing serious damage to the dog-human relationship; and still others are downright dangerous. It’s time to get past the myths.

Socializing Puppies

Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug of Sugar Land, Texas, recently compiled a comprehensive list of dog behavior myths. With her blessing, we’re sharing 10 of our “favorites” from her list, and explaining why these “busted” myths should not be used as the justification for a training or behavior modification technique. I am always exhorting my interns, apprentices, and clients to be critical thinkers. When someone offers you an alleged nugget of canine wisdom, regardless of who the someone is, you’re wise to run it through your own rigorous filters before accepting it as real wisdom or adopting it as the basis for a training technique. These should include:

A scientific filter. Does it make sense scientifically? If someone assures you that shock collar training is actually positive reinforcement training because the shock is no different than someone tapping you on the shoulder to get you to stop a behavior, does that concur with your understanding of positive reinforcement? (That a dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen, so the behavior increases.) Don’t be fooled by the euphemisms “e-collar” and “tingle,” “tap,” or “stim” for the word “shock.”

A philosophical filter. Is it congruent with your own philosophies about dog training and relationships? Positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen; behavior decreases) makes sense from a scientific standpoint. That doesn’t mean you want to – or have to – use it with your dog, and risk the damage it can do to your relationship. Trainers with a positive training philosophy generally try to avoid the use of positive punishment, or any methods that work through the use of fear, pain, aversives, and avoidance.

An “acid test” filter. It may seem sound scientifically, and it may feel okay philosophically, but does it work? If you’re comfortable trying it out and you don’t like the results, feel free to continue on and explore why it’s not working or simply toss it out. Just because it works for someone else doesn’t mean it has to work for you.

Now, keeping these filters in mind, let’s see how some of the most common and harmful myths about canine behavior create a flawed foundation for training.

Myth #1: “Puppies should not go to puppy classes/the mall/friends’ houses until they have had all their vaccinations at 16 weeks/6 months of age.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one lands squarely at the top of the “dangerous myth” category. It’s generally perceived as credible by new puppy owners because it’s often offered by the pup’s veterinarian.

While it appears scientifically sound on its face (an unvaccinated puppy is at risk for contracting deadly diseases!), puppies who aren’t properly socialized are at a much greater risk for developing behavior problems, including aggression, that are likely to shorten their lives.

The vet is right on one hand; the best way to ensure that your pup isn’t exposed to dog germs is to avoid other dogs. It’s certainly true that you want to prevent your pup’s exposure to unknown and/or possibly unhealthy dogs (and their waste). But it’s also critically important that your pup get lots of exposure to the rest of the world, including healthy puppies in a controlled environment, before the critical socialization period ends at 12 to 16 weeks. If he doesn’t, he’ll be at risk of developing serious, sometimes deadly, behavior problems. (See “Puppy Training School,” Whole Dog Journal September 2007, for more information on early education for puppies.)

In addition, during the period leading up to the age of four to six months, your pup has protection from his mother’s immunities, and should receive “puppy shots” to cover that period of time when his mother’s protection starts to decrease. Not only is it “okay” to take your pup places while exercising reasonable caution, you have an obligation to provide him with extensive socialization in order to maximize his chances of leading a long and happy life.

Myth #2: “Dogs pull on leash, jump up on people, (add your own) because they are dominant.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests.

Like the first myth discussed, this one can be dangerous, because those who believe this myth are likely to believe that they need to use forceful methods to assert their status over their “dominant” dogs.

No one disputes that dogs living in a group understand and respond to the concepts and dictates of a social hierarchy. The fact that canine social structures share elements with human social structures is probably one of the reasons that dogs make such wonderful companions for us. However, most experts in animal behavior today believe that canine social hierarchies are much more based on deference than dominance, and that most canine behavior that many misguided humans attribute to dominance . . . isn’t!

A dog’s goal in life is to make good stuff happen. Behaviors often labeled “dominant” because they are perceived as pushy and assertive – like pulling on leash and jumping up – simply persist because the dog has learned that the behaviors are reinforced; they make good stuff happen. Pulling on leash gets her where she wants to go. Jumping up gets attention. Behaviors that are reinforced continue, and even increase – but they have nothing to do with social status.

If you remove all reinforcement for the unwelcome behaviors (pulling makes us stop; jumping up makes attention go away) and reinforce more appropriate behaviors in their place, the dog will change her behavior.

Myth #3: “If you let your dog sleep on the bed/eat first/go through doors first/win at tug-o-war, he will become the alpha.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one is mostly just silly. Some sources even suggest that the entire family must gather in the kitchen and take turns buttering and eating a cracker before the dog can be fed. Seriously!

See Myth #2 for the mythbusting response to this one. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s your lifestyle choice, but you don’t need to defend it with the alpha-garbage argument. I feed my dogs before I eat so I don’t have to feel guilty about them being hungry while I fill my own belly. I teach my dogs to sit and wait for permission to go through the door (“say please!”) because it’s a polite, safe behavior and reinforces deference, but not because I’m terrified that they’ll take over the house. And I like to win tug-o-war a lot because it reinforces polite behavior. You can quit worrying about your dog becoming alpha just because you don’t rule with an iron first.

If you are concerned that your dog is too pushy you can implement a “Say Please” program, where your dog asks politely for all good things by sitting – a nice, polite, deference behavior (see “Why Force-Based Training is Not Advocated,” August 2003). If you think your dog is potentially aggressive, it’s even more important to avoid conflict; your attempts to physically dominate him are likely to escalate his aggression rather than resolve it. (See “Puppies Who Deomonstrate “Alpha” Behavior,” July 2006.) If aggression is a real concern, we recommend you consult with a qualified, positive behavior professional who can help you modify your dog’s behavior without the use of force.

Myth #4: “Dogs can’t learn from positive reinforcement. You have to punish them so they know when they are wrong.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests; fails acid test unless punisher is very skilled.

This myth has good potential for causing serious harm to the canine-human relationship. Research confirms what positive trainers hold dear: that positive reinforcement training is more effective and has far fewer risks than positive reinforcement training combined with positive punishment.

One study, conducted by scientists at the University of Southampton in the UK and the University of Life Sciences in Norway, evaluated whether punishment was a contributor to behavior problems, and examined the effects of reward, punishment, and rule structure (permissiveness/strictness and consistency) on training and behavior problems. Information was collected via questionnaires from 217 dog guardians. Those who used strong and/or frequent punishment had a significantly higher level of training problems and lower obedience in their dogs. A similar study, conducted at Britain’s University of Bristol, also found that dogs trained only with positive reinforcement exhibited fewer problem behaviors.

For most humans, this makes sense. Do you learn better if someone acknowledges (and rewards) you when you do it right, or slaps you upside the head when you do it wrong? Even if you get rewarded for doing it right, if you also get slapped for doing it wrong, your fear of getting slapped will likely impede your learning and make you more reluctant to try things.

Of course, a good positive training program makes use of management to avoid giving the dog opportunities to be reinforced for unwanted behaviors, and will also make judicious use of negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) to let him know he made an unrewarding behavior choice.

For more information on why training programs that utilize positive reinforcement are most effective, see “Dog Training Using Positive Techniques,” January 2007.

Myth #5: “If you use treats to train, you will always need them.”

– Fails all three tests.

This just isn’t true. A good positive training program will quickly “fade” the use of food as a constant reinforcer while moving to a schedule of intermittent reinforcement and expanding the repertoire of reinforcers to include things like toys, play, petting, praise, and the opportunity to perform some other highly reinforcing behavior.

Treats can be a very high-value reinforcer and quite useful in training a wide variety of behaviors, so it’s plain silly to turn your back on them. Just be sure to fade food lures quickly in a training program, move to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement when your dog will perform a behavior on cue 8 out of 10 times, and incorporate a variety of reinforcers so you’re never dependent on any one particular reward choice. (For more information about how some people might fail when applying positive training techniques the wrong way, see “Common Dog Training Mistakes,” May 2007.)

Myth #6: “A dog who urinates inside/destroys the house/barks when he is left alone does so because he is spiteful.”

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

This myth definitely causes harm to the dog-human relationship. Dogs don’t do things out of spite, and to think so gives owners a negative perspective on their relationship with their canine family member. Dogs do things because they feel good, they work to make good stuff happen (or to make bad stuff go away), or because they are reacting to events that occur in their environment. While our dogs share much the same range of emotions as we humans, they don’t seem to indulge in all the same motives. Spite requires a certain amount of premeditation and cognitive thinking that science doesn’t support as being evident in the canine behavior repertoire.

Dog Begging

There are two rational explanations for the behaviors described in this myth. The first is that the dog isn’t fully housetrained and hasn’t yet learned house manners. In the absence of direct supervision, the dog urinates when he has a full bladder (an empty bladder feels good) and becomes destructive because playing with/chewing sofa cushions, shoes, ripping down curtains, tipping over the garbage, and barking are fun and rewarding activities.

The other explanation is that the dog suffers from some degree of isolation distress. These behaviors are often a manifestation of stress and the dog’s attempt to relieve his anxiety over being left alone. If your dog regularly urinates (or worse) in the house or destroys things when he is left alone, he may be suffering from a moderate degree of isolation distress, or more severe separation anxiety. This condition can worsen without appropriate management. For more information, see “Relieving Separation Anxiety Symptoms,” August 2001 – and consider a consultation with an animal behavior specialist.

Myth #7: “If you feed a dog human food, he will learn to beg at the table.”

– Fails all three tests.

This is silly! One dog owner’s “begging” is another’s “attention” behavior, eagerly sought-after and highly valued. Behaviors that are reinforced continue and/or increase. If you fed your dog his own dog food from the table, he would learn to beg at the table. It has nothing to do with what type of food he’s being fed! If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t feed your dog from the table.

Whole Dog Journal readers know full well that human-grade food is better for dogs than much of the junk that’s in many brands of dog food. Whether it’s fed in a form that we recognize as something we might consume, or it’s been transformed into something that more resembles our mental concept of “dog food,” it all still comes from the same basic food ingredients.

Myth #8: “He knows he was bad/did wrong because he looks guilty.”

– Fails all three tests.

This myth is damaging to the relationship, as it leads owners to hold dogs to a moral standard that they aren’t capable of possessing. When a dog looks “guilty,” he is most likely responding to a human’s tense or angry body language with appeasement behaviors. He’s probably thinking something like, “I don’t know why, but my human looks upset. I’d better offer some appeasement behaviors so her anger isn’t directed at me!” Even when the “guilty” expression is a direct and immediate result of your dog’s behavior because your punishment was timely – “Hey! Get out of the garbage!” -your dog’s turned head, lowered body posture, averted eyes – are simply an acknowledgement of your anger and his attempt to reconcile with you.

A trainer friend of mine once did an experiment to convince a client that her dearly held “guilty look” belief was a myth. He had the client hold her dog in the living room while he went into the kitchen and dumped the garbage can on the floor, strewing its contents nicely around the room. Then he had the client bring the dog into the kitchen. Sure enough, the dog “acted guilty” even though he had nothing to do with the garbage on the floor. He just knew from past experience that “garbage on floor” turned his owner into an angry human, and he was already offering appeasement behavior in anticipation of her anger, and to divert her ire from his dog-self. (For more information about canine body language, see “Understanding How Dogs Communicate with Each Other,” April 2006.)

Finally, most owners who have punished a dog for something that was done in their absence can attest to the fact that the punishment generally does not prevent the dog from repeating the behavior another time. What does work is simple management. Put the garbage somewhere that the dog can’t get to it; under a sink with a safety latch on it, for example. Keep counters clear of anything edible. Leave the dog in a part of the house that is comfortable but not easily destroyed. Hire a dog walker to come by in the middle of your dog’s longest days home alone to let him out, give him some stress-relieving exercise, and leave him with a food-filled chew toy. These actions will result in an intact home – and a dog who is not afraid to greet you when you return.

Myth #9: The prong collar works by mimicking a mother dog’s teeth and her corrections.

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

It’s a little discouraging to think that people actually believe this myth. It would be silly if it weren’t so potentially damaging to the relationship and potentially dangerous as well.

Prong collars work because the prongs pressing into the dog’s neck are uncomfortable at best, painful at worst. Because dogs will work to avoid pain and discomfort, the prong collar does work to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, and can shut down other undesirable behaviors as well, at least temporarily. However, like all training tools and techniques that are based on pain and intimidation, there is a significant risk of unintended consequences.

In the case of the prong collar, the primary risk is that the dog will associate the pain with something in his environment at the time he feels it, and this can lead to aggression toward the mistakenly identified cause. A dog’s unmannerly, “I want to greet you” lunge toward another dog or person can turn into, “I want to eat you,” if he decides that the object of his attention is hurting him.

If you have used or are considering the use of a prong collar to control your dog, please consult with a qualified positive behavior consultant to learn about more effective and less potentially harmful methods.

Myth #10: “Aggressive/hand-shy/fearful dogs must have been abused at some point in their lives.”

– Fails the scientific test.

This is a very widespread myth; I hear it so often it makes my brain hurt. Fortunately, while the behaviors described in this myth are problematic, the myth itself may be the most benign of our top 10.

There are many reasons a dog may be aggressive, hand-shy, or fearful. Lack of proper socialization tops the list, especially for fearfulness. If a pup doesn’t get a wide variety of positive social exposures and experiences during the first 12 to 14 weeks of his life, he’s likely to be neophobic – afraid of new things – for the rest of his life (see Myth #1). This neophobia manifests as fear, and for some dogs, as fear-related aggression.

Widely accepted categories of aggression include:

• Defensive (fear-related) aggression
• Possession aggression (resource-guarding)
• Maternal aggression
• Territorial aggression
• Status-related aggression
• Pain-related aggression
• Protection aggression
• Predatory aggression
• Play aggression
• Idiopathic (we don’t know what causes it) aggression

Note that there’s no category for “abuse-related” aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related/defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.

Regardless of the cause of a dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior, a myth-corollary to our Myth #10 is that love alone will be enough to “fix” the problem. While love is a vital ingredient for the most successful dog-human relationships, it takes far more than that to help a fearful dog become confident, or an aggressive one become friendly. For more about rehabilitating a chronically fearful dog, see “Reducing Your Dog’s Anxieties,” April 2007.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. She is the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Canine Earth Energy Healing

Who doesn’t have at least one quartz crystal, turquoise pendant, jade figurine, or amethyst geode? You probably have a strand of beads, too, maybe aventurine, bloodstone, citrine, coral, garnet, or sodalite. What you may not realize is that, according to crystal enthusiasts, these items can help both you and your dog improve your health, balance your emotions, and enhance your quality of life.

Whether they’re novelty items or elegant jewelry, crystals – precious and semiprecious gems as well as humble stones and river rocks – have been valued for thousands of years for their healing and aesthetic properties. The more people explore the use of crystals, stones, and gems, the more their dogs, cats, horses, and other animals are likely to benefit from this branch of energy medicine. Your pets can sleep near crystals, wear them, drink water that has been “charged” by crystals, and in other ways receive the energy that is said to be unique to each type of stone.

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Crystal healing is especially popular in the United Kingdom, where practitioners match human and animal clients with stones that best support their conditions. Sara Hope Brown, who lives in Fife, Scotland, designs clip-on crystals that attach to a dog’s collar. Her own white Standard Poodle, Jody, was a rescued dog with many emotional problems until Brown fitted her with quartz clip-ons. She reports that as a result of wearing the crystals, Jody is now calm and self-confident.

“Rose quartz is the crystal that balances the emotions,” she says. “I recommend it for rescued pets, pets who are on their own a lot, and animals who are nervous or worried. Amethyst crystals help animals deal with physical problems such as illness, skin conditions, arthritis, and the slowing down that accompanies old age. Clear quartz crystals produce positive changes in pets that improve behavioral problems like excessive barking or aggression.”

Do the crystals work? Brown’s satisfied clients think so. Consider Cleo, a three-year-old German Shepherd mix who was nervous and aggressive. According to her owner, Jean Beveridge, “One week after wearing the rose and clear quartz crystals, she has become much calmer and more at peace with those around her.”

Many users report that after wearing crystals, their dogs became relaxed, more amenable to training, and even friendlier. Angela White says that her dog, Jasmine, refused to go out for walks, didn’t like strangers, and never seemed to have much fun. That all changed when she began wearing a rose quartz crystal. “Now she happily goes for walks and even wanders over to people,” says White. “She often runs about playing, which she rarely did before. I was very skeptical about these crystals working, but they have made a difference to Jasmine.”

Christine Waddell bought an amethyst crystal for her 11-year-old Bichon, Biggles, who suffered from aching joints in his legs and hips. “Since putting the crystal on his collar,” she says, “his pain and discomfort have improved dramatically and he is moving much more comfortably. Recently the crystal fell off and within a short period I noticed that Biggles’ discomfort and pain had returned, though not so badly as previously. Needless to say, I had the crystal replaced and now have a happier dog because of it.”

Other guardians report improvements in eczema, rough skin, dry flakey skin, abscesses, sores, allergic reactions; and stress and anxiety.

“Energy healing works upon the electromagnetic field that surrounds us,” explains Brown, “which includes the emotional, mental, and physical bodies. Disruptions in the normal flow of energy eventually lead to physical illness and psychological symptoms. Pets who wear all three of my clip-on crystals are kept emotionally, physically, and mentally balanced, and results are seen in a short time.”

Using crystals
Hundreds of stones and crystals are used to improve health and happiness, so it makes sense to consult a reference book or crystal healing practitioner for help in selecting the right one for your pet.

One way to impart crystal energy to your dog is by attaching or placing a stone or crystal in a corner of her crate, on top of the crate, under her bedding (be sure that any sharp crystal points are padded so they don’t irritate), or on a sunny window sill. Stones can also be placed on the floor near your sleeping dog.

“Simply placing crystals in your home environment can help you and your pet reduce stress and fear, balance emotions, energize the physical body, clear energy blockages, calm the mind, and reach expanded states of consciousness,” says lapidary artist Michelle Buckler of Lewes, Delaware, who uses gold and silver wire to wrap or frame stones and crystals, making them easy to hang from or attach to crates, walls, windows, or furniture.

Because dogs are so sensitive to energy, she says, it’s important to be balanced, centered, and grounded yourself before positioning crystals. Introduce crystals in a quiet, comfortable environment, take some deep breaths, relax, and enjoy the experience. Watch for signs of stress in your dog, such as changes in ear or tail position, rising hackles, or turning away.

“Crystal healing can sometimes be too fast for the animal to integrate, or so intense that it causes pain and other discomfort,” she explains. “As crystal energy promotes rapid healing, easing off can help alleviate the stress caused by a healing crisis. When the healing is going well, the dog will show signs of comfort and affection, such as eyelids drooping, sighing, and a general softening of muscle tissues.”

An easy way to apply crystal energy to your pet, Buckler suggests, is to warm a crystal in the sun, then hold it a few inches from the injured or affected area and rotate the crystal clockwise. “Take your time,” she says. “Go slowly and breathe gently and evenly. If you are using an ice bag to reduce swelling, try adding a few tumbled smoky quartz crystals to the ice to help unblock over-active or inflamed areas.”

Vibrational animal healer Chris Anderson of Kittridge, Colorado, prefers river stones, which are often called balsamic stones when they are used in spas for “hot stone” massage therapy. “I warm the stones in hot water and then use them as an extension of my hand to massage the dog,” she says. “These stones have their own healing energy, and by going in deep with that extra warmth, you can really help sore muscles and arthiritic conditions. Look for your own smooth, flat river stones or buy them from a massage supply store.”

Another way to use crystals is to leave them in your dog’s water bowl or bucket, making sure they can’t be swallowed. The crystals are said to leave their energy signature in the water so that when the water is ingested, the energy goes where it is most needed. Note that some crystals, such as malachite, are for external use only; they are toxic if swallowed. Use only stones that are known to be safe in your dog’s water dish. Consult an expert if you aren’t sure.

As mentioned in “Canine Energy Healing Techniques” (WDJ November 2007), gem elixirs or crystal essences can be made and used the same way as flower essences.

Clearing and charging
It’s easy to think of stones and crystals as static and unchanging, but according to energy experts, rocks and minerals are alive in their own way. Stones can transmit or give off energy, absorb energy, channel and redirect energy, or simply support other stones.

Over time – in some cases a very short time – crystals that absorb or give off energy can lose their effectiveness or wear out. As a result of exposure to electromagnetic pollution, physical pain, negative emotional energy, or other imbalances, they may become darker, feel sticky to the touch, change color, or develop cracks, fissures, bubbles, cloudiness, or spots. On an energetic level, crystals feel weaker and less lively as these changes occur..

Fortunately, there are ways to cleanse or “clear” crystals, stones, and river rocks. Any of these methods can be used when you first obtain the item and again whenever needed. They include holding a crystal in both hands under cold running water for half a minute or more, burning dried sage leaves in a bowl or shell and passing the crystal through its fragrant smoke, soaking or dipping crystals in sage tea or salt water, breathing on crystals by exhaling slowly through the nose, leaving them out in the rain or sun, burying them in the earth for a few days or weeks, gently washing them with soap (not harsh detergent) and warm (not hot) water, or simply leaving them in the open air. To prevent damage to crystals that might be adversely affected by salt water or long-term soaking, try a brief soak or dip followed by a plain water rinse and air drying.

Crystals worn by dogs should be cleared often, such as every day, and stones used in massage or healing sessions should be cleared after every use to maintain their effectiveness.

To “charge” crystals with positive energies, clear them first and then repeatedly exhale on the crystals, leave them in direct sun for several hours, place them under a pyramid for a day or two, leave them outdoors in snowstorms, thunderstorms, or other dynamic weather conditions, or simply charge the stones with your concentrated intention, affirming that they are filled with love and a positive life force. Sara Brown charges her clip-on crystals with positive energy before sending them to clients, then recharges them daily by sending healing thoughts to animals wearing them.

Crystal collars
In Minneapolis, Minnesota, Mary Ann Field, a canine massage therapist, craniosacral therapist for humans, and Master of Crystalogy, has turned crystal collars for pets into a thriving business.

“The whole idea started 10 years ago with one of my Australian Shepherds,” she says. “She had so many physical problems that I wanted to find a way to help reduce her chronic pain. I knew a crystal expert and had already gotten good results for my own pain by using stones, so I thought crystals might help.”

Her husband, Brink, helped Field make crystal collars by stringing beads on cotton cord attached to copper wire clasps. Their two Aussies tested collars until the results were sturdy enough for daily wear.

“Both dogs were rescues,” she says, “and this gave us a chance to experiment with stones that addressed their emotional issues. We worked with our own dogs until we got the results we wanted, and then we started sharing the collars with friends.”

Now the Fields’ business, Pelli’s Castle Works, sells a variety of collars made for dogs of all sizes. These collars typically contain two or three types of stones that work well together, she says, sometimes using the dogs’ birth month as a guide.

“It’s interesting how at dog shows, people who pick up the different collars can feel their differences, even when they are new to crystals. Some of the collars feel calming, some are energizing, some are serious, and some just feel fun. Moss agate and blue lace agate are both soothing as well as pretty. Some of the heavier dark stones, like hematite or jasper, are grounding. Others, like tiger’s eye and citrine, are happy stones that channel positive energy. Whenever possible, we suggest showing different collars to dogs so they can select the one they want. You can also do this at home with individual stones.”

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In addition to making birth month collars, Field custom-designs collars for dogs with specific issues. For dogs with separation anxiety, for example, she favors agates for their calming influence, red tiger’s eye for increased confidence, tiger iron for a feeling of safety and security, and lapis lazuli for the instantaneous release of stress.

“I’d use a lot of the same stones that people use when meditating,” she says, “like kyanite and chrysoprase. Then I’d add jasper. There are many kinds and colors of jasper, and they each have their own application, but they all support and strengthen the physical body. Because anxiety is often linked to blocked energy in the body, I’d finish with bloodstone to help clear the blocks.”

For dogs competing in agility or other sports, Field emphasizes howlite, a stone associated with communication. “It helps dogs concentrate and focus,” she says, “plus it helps them work well with their handlers, and it reduces the goofiness and distractibility that can interfere with competition. I’d put fluorite in there, too, because fluorite is called the IQ stone. It really assists the thought processes. Zebra stone is great for athletes because it helps with stamina, endurance, and support of the physical body. I’d probably add some protective stones like black onyx and hematite to help prevent injury.”

Dog Collar with Healing Crystals

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Field’s goal is to include as many appropriate stones as possible without making the collar overwhelming. “That’s why I check intuitively with the animals, to know what they’re comfortable with and what they can take,” she says.

She advises humans to keep an open mind when it comes to energy medicine. “Our attitude toward energy healing affects how it works. Dogs are extremely sensitive, and if you disapprove of this technique or know that it isn’t going to work, your dog will pick up on that and it will change the outcome.”

When dogs don’t like crystals
While most dogs take to crystals right away, not all of them do. Some dogs turn away from crystals and don’t want anything to do with them; some become restless and uncomfortable if a crystal is attached to their collar or they are fitted with a crystal collar.

“The first time this happened with one of our collars,” says Field, “the dog responded with extreme fatigue. Within five minutes, she laid down and couldn’t raise her head. It was as though the collar became extremely heavy. This dog was diagnosed with cancer a short time later; I assume her illness contributed to this extreme reaction.”

When a second dog showed a similar response, Field was ready. “What I learned was that when the stones absorb so much negative energy so quickly, the best way to use the collar is to put it on for a few minutes, then clear the stones for 24 hours or so, then put it on again for a few minutes, and clear them again.”

The second dog had serious health problems, but by following this strategy, he was able to wear the collar for a few more minutes each time. After two months, he was comfortable wearing it all day.

Field notes that in some cases, crystals trigger physical symptoms similar to homeopathy’s healing crisis – for example, a dog with a history of ear infections or hot spots might suddenly show these symptoms – in which case the crystals should be removed, cleansed, and reintroduced gradually.

“Best crystals” for dogs
If you’d like to experiment with crystals, consider these eight stones, which are highly recommended for dogs.

“Rose quartz is number one,” says Field. “It’s all about love and balance, and it’s very powerful. If you have five or six dogs and there are territorial issues, put rose quartz in their water dish.”

Amethyst, she says, is the second most powerful healing stone. “It’s very protective, soothes the emotions, and stimulates physical healing.”

Field’s third choice is fluorite, the IQ stone. “It helps with focus and concentration and it also absorbs and dissipates electromagnetic stress from our indoor and outdoor environments.” Quartz is next on the list. “There are several kinds of quartz and all of them protect, rejuvenate, energize, balance energy, boost immunity, and support the animal,” says Field. “I like quartz clusters rather than individual crystals because they’re more concentrated and effective.”

Citrine belongs in your dog’s crystal collection, says Field, because it gives off positive energy. “It’s all about happiness, well-being, prosperity, and everything that’s fun and upbeat.” Her next recommendation is blue lace agate, a soothing, calming stone that quickly releases stress. “Blue lace agate belongs in any house with multiple animals or wherever conditions are stressful. Like most of the stones on this list, it works wonders in the dog’s water bowl.”

Rhodochrosite, she says, is important for those with rescued animals. “It helps heal emotional and physical trauma.”

Her final recommendation is malachite. “This is especially good for dogs with physical injuries,” she says. “It helps relieve physical pain. Place it on the sore area and hold it there for a few minutes, then clear it, then reapply. It works almost like icing an injury. Do this for five or ten minutes at a time two or three times per day. Just remember that malachite is toxic if swallowed, so don’t leave it in your dog’s water bowl and never let your dog play with malachite crystals.”

Healing with Mother Earth
Since time began, animals have lived in direct contact with the earth. Their feet were always on the ground, they always breathed open air, and the sun and moon illuminated their days and nights.

Even after their human companions moved into houses, most dogs lived outdoors. Now people and their pets are indoor creatures. Sure, dogs go for walks and enjoy other outdoor activities, but, like most of us, our dogs often spend more than 20 hours a day inside.

According to energy experts, indoor living takes a toll. For one thing, it disrupts our exposure to unfiltered natural light, which is needed by the hypothalamus and other glands for endocrine balance and optimum health. Whenever possible, give your dog access to natural light by letting him stay outdoors or near an open window or on a screened porch. The location doesn’t have to be sunny; in fact, shade is preferable. What matters is that nothing interfere with the full spectrum of natural light, such as glass windows or patio doors.

For a fascinating look at the health benefits of unfiltered light, see Health and Light: The Effects of Natural and Artificial Light on Man and Other Living Things by John Ott. A pioneer of time-lapse photography, Ott discovered the vital role that natural light plays in the lives of plants and animals. Without it, plants can’t set fruit, animals have reproductive problems, and humans and animals develop a variety of modern illnesses, including cancer.

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Indoor lighting adds to the problem. Glass windows screen out ultraviolet light, which is a crucial part of the spectrum, but fluorescent and incandescent bulbs are incomplete in other ways. Any lights that change the appearance of colors, so that red lipstick looks black or other colors look distorted, are an extreme example, but even “sunlight” bulbs that look white because the yellow part of the spectrum has been removed can adversely affect the body. It’s ironic that the fluorescent lights being touted for their energy efficiency may, according to light researchers, create a host of new health problems, while none of the bulbs labeled “full spectrum” include the complete spectrum of natural light.

For your dog’s continuing or improved health, outdoor natural light is best, followed by indoor window light, followed by standard incandescent bulbs, followed by “natural light” or “full-spectrum” fluorescent tubes or incandescent bulbs, followed by tinted fluorescent or incandescent lights, with energy-efficient fluorescents last on your shopping list.

Earthing
Another way in which 21st century people and dogs are disconnected from Mother Earth is by modern building materials. When we stand barefoot on bare earth, grass, sand, gravel, or concrete, our bodies absorb a constant flow of free electrons. When we’re indoors, in our cars, or walking on rubber-soled shoes, we’re insulated from the earth’s energy flow.

“Disrupting the natural flow of energy from the earth may have negative biological effects,” says health researcher Dale Teplitz of San Diego. “That’s because the earth’s free electrons are essential for synchronizing biological clocks, hormone cycles, and physiological rhythms.”

There may be a link between our lack of direct contact with the earth and common inflammatory conditions like arthritis, allergies, heart disease, diabetes, digestive disorders, hormone imbalances, and others.

If your dog spends most of the day and all of the night indoors, do what you can to increase his time outside. Resting or playing in a fenced yard is perfect, as are long walks, hikes, and swims. Direct contact with the earth may be especially important at night, when the earth’s effects on human and animal health is said to be most powerful.

For those not able to sleep on the ground, EarthingTM technology products provide contact with the earth even when you’re indoors. Bedding products containing conductive materials are connected to the earth by a wire that transmits the earth’s free electrons. Medical thermal imaging has shown in before-and-after photos of human subjects that Earthing significantly reduces inflammation in painful joints and increases blood flow to circulation-impaired hands and feet.

Earthing bed pads fit across a bed’s bottom sheet so that the sleeper’s bare feet rest on the pad, which plugs into a grounded outlet. Many who have used these washable bed pads report reduced pain and muscle tension along with improved sleep.

While a pet version of the Earthing bed pad is not yet commercially available, in the summer of 2007 Teplitz conducted an eight-week preliminary clinical trial of a prototype pad for pets. Questionnaires completed by caregivers showed that in most cases, indoor dogs with arthritis, back pain, fatigue, anxiety, hip dysplasia, chronic coughs, old injuries, or other common problems experienced improvements in energy, stamina, flexibility, muscle tone, calmness, pain levels, and sleep.

One trial participant is Chip, an eight-year-old retired racing Greyhound belonging to Roberta Mikkelsen of Pearl River, New York. Chip limped because of old racing injuries to all four legs and he was anxious and afraid of thunder, fireworks, and other loud noises.

After three weeks of sleeping on an Earthing pad, Chip stopped panting, pacing, shaking, and hiding during storms. Instead, he calmly walked into the bedroom and fell asleep. He even slept through Fourth of July fireworks. Because of leg pain, Chip couldn’t get into the car or jump onto the couch for an entire year. “Now, thanks to the Earthing pad, he does both all the time,” says Mikkelsen. “He’s more playful, jumps and runs more, limps much less, tolerates longer walks, and has far more energy than before.”

“Earthing is a new technology,” says Teplitz, “so we’re still collecting information, but it’s safe to suggest that any dog will feel better if he or she spends more time walking, playing, or resting on the bare earth.”

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. See “Resources,” page 24, for more information.

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