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Remedies for Your Flea Problem and More

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Natural Flea Solutions

Regarding the natural flea-erradication tactics you published in the June issue: Trying to pick fleas off of my 18-year-old Timber Wolf can be a very dangerous proposition as she regards those fleas as hers to eat! Nor does she tolerate the application of powder or sprays. So what I have done through the years is apply a little caster oil to the base of her tail and above her hips. When the fleas run up over her back and through the oil, it suffocates them. You have to heat the oil slightly and rub it down to the skin with your fingers. I do this two or three times a year, washing off the old caster oil and drying the fur thoroughly before applying the new. She still gets fleas, as we walk through the woods every day, but in a couple of days they are gone.

She also suffers from separation anxiety (also mentioned in the June issue). When I leave the house now I leave the TV on and place a small cardboard box on the floor that she can tear up. This saves the rest of the house and the TV puts her to sleep, until I can return.

-Tom Stewart
Freeport, PA

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I use a number of the preventive measures that you mentioned in “Fighting Fleas Naturally,” but I also do an additional one. Feeding fresh garlic to my dogs helps reduce the numbers of flees that I find. I have three dogs, and each weighs between 70 and 90 pounds. They each get one teaspoon of garlic twice a day with their food. I mix the garlic in a food processor with olive oil. They prefer extra virgin first pressed olive oil. I mix enough oil in to get a paste and start feeding them small amounts in mid-June, the start date for fleas in my part of New England. I slowly increase the amount over a few days until I get to the one teaspoon twice a day. I have gotten success only using fresh garlic. Bottled and dried just didn’t seem to help.

Overall, I’m extremely happy about Whole Dog Journal. I’ve been showing it to other dog lovers, hoping that more people will turn to “alternative” methods first.

-Mark Valery
Billerica, MA

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More Than Expected

I just received my first issue of Whole Dog Journal and I must say it is far more than I expected. It is full of valuable things you should know about your dog. I have a Maltese I love dearly and I always want the best for her. I especially enjoyed “Herbs for Common Canine Ailments” (Volume 1, #4), since I’m a herb grower. I always rub my dog’s fur with penny-royal after her nightly brushing, and I really enjoyed Nancy Kerns’ editorial, “What’s Best for Dogs.” I’m looking forward to each issue from now on.

-Eunice McGarvey
Palmyra, PA

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We Love The Buster Cube

To defend the Buster Cube (reviewed in WDJ Vol. 1, # 3): It arrived at our house by UPS at 5PM. Pepper, a mix we got from a shelter, got very frustrated that first night but the next day had it figured out. A few days later she could maneuver it out of tight places. I put a cup of food in it every day, and one cup in her bowl. She eats it whenever she gets hungry.

I enjoy WDJ; it’s very informative. I was very glad to know about the propylene glycol in treats. We no longer buy that kind. I look at the ingredients in dog food now, as well as our food!

-Darla Terry
Sierra Vista, AZ

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A Better Biscuit?

Your Journal fills a huge void! I can now begin to make my own educated decisions regarding the well being of my dogs. You have already helped me decide on an alternative to antibiotics for my dog’s giardia; the goldenseal worked! (“A Garden of Benefits, WDJ Vol. 1, # 4). In the future, please include suggested dosages when you write about these alternatives).

My only complaint is that you wasted valuable space in your journal complaining about MLM companies! There are retail stores with annoying pushy sales people as well – I find that a simple “No, thank you,” works to halt the pitch. You must have been very annoyed with them!

Keep the important information coming!

-Ava Eskin
Durango, CO

The Best Dog Food Bowls

Consider your dog’s dinnerware, a topic more complicated than you might have thought.

A visit to your local pet superstore, for example, will reveal dozens of choices, in plastic, stainless steel, glass, nylon, ceramic, and possibly aluminum. Among them are many simple, practical and economical models, meant for long-term everyday use, which are the focus of this article.

Of course, bowls also come in a million different “specialty” models – to feed automatically, repel ants, resist spilling, fold up for travel, and so on. But in essence, dog bowls function in pretty much the same manner: they hold food or water. You can spend a few dollars on a practical stainless steel model, or a few hundred for a kidney-shaped granite job with legs. What’s most important, however, is not what they look like or how much they cost, but whether they contain that food and water without contaminating it with any chemicals of their own!

Many people are unaware that certain types of dog dishes (and people dishes!) are capable of leaching dangerous substances into the foods and liquids that fill them. Concerns have been emerging for some time, for instance, about the use of aluminum cookware, and the possibility of lead poisoning from unsafe pottery glazes. Some experts believe that carcinogenic substances can seep out of plastic dishes, too.

But there are so many attractive, inexpensive, and perfectly safe products on the market – including products made for humans – that there is really no reason to take a chance with your dogs. After all, they might use the same dishes day-in and day-out throughout their lifetimes.

Purpose-Built Dog Food Bowls

If you’re like many dog owners, you feed and water your dog in dishes culled from your own supply of culinary containers. Recently, after visiting the kitchens of a number of dog owners, WDJ came home with some interesting data: most used vessels unintended for the purpose. Some of the dishes were perfectly safe, but we also found among these ad hoc substitutions a cheap aluminum two-quart pot, a chipped glass bowl, a variety of plastics, and a pretty (but possibly dangerous) ceramic dish purchased in a Mexican street market. In every case, we were told those dishes were “temporary situations” whose permanent solutions hadn’t yet made it to the top of the agenda.

We have no problem with using safe “people” dishes, even permanently, but think about it! Using cast-off dishes that aren’t safe for people is even less safe for our dogs, who may be exposed to far more toxins in their short lives than we are!

NOT RECOMMENDED:

Foreign-Made or Old Ceramic Dishes

There are a lot of pretty bowls in the world, and some that are painted and sold for use by dogs are too cute for words. But if you don’t know how or where they were made, it’s best not to use them.

The reason is that ceramic glazes contain lead, which can leach into food and water. Lead is a highly potent toxin that accumulates in the body – once in, it can not be gotten rid of easily or inexpensively. Prevention is the only realistic “cure” for lead poisoning.

Exposure to lead can cause a multitude of health problems, including brain and organ damage, impaired vision and hearing, stunted growth, impaired motor function, cancer, and reproductive complications. The smaller the dog, the more this toxicity is magnified.

In the U.S., manufacturers have been required since 1971 to fire pottery at temperatures high enough (in theory) to make glazing safe – that is, impervious to surface degradation. However, the FDA tests only a small percentage of imported pottery. In reality, a consumer has no way of knowing whether a dish was fired at temperatures adequate to prevent seepage. While the only way to know for sure that a dish will not leach lead is to have it tested, the following cautions should be observed:

• Use only stoneware or porcelain products, both of which are fired at extremely high temperatures.
• Not many people feed their dogs on old, fine china, but if you do – stop! These heirlooms were made before lead was recognized as a hazard.
• Use only those ceramics, foreign or otherwise, which are certified safe. It is important to note, however, that repeated washing and scrubbing can cause glazes to deteriorate; again, this seems to be most common with earthenware, not with properly fired stoneware of porcelain. If a dish’s glaze is corroded, or develops a dusty, chalky gray residue after washing, stop using it at once! The residue is characteristic of a faulty glaze, and it could be very dangerous.

• Avoid dishes with raised decorations on the interior surfaces of the dish. Glazes might not cover all of a textured surface.
• If you suspect your dog has been exposed to lead, ask your veterinarian for a blood test immediately. Chelation therapy can diminish the amount of lead your dog has already accumulated, though the procedure is expensive and difficult. Alternatively, a veterinarian may prescribe a course of action to reduce its effects. For instance, nutritional deficiencies can exacerbate lead poisoning, so a dog that has been exposed to lead would benefit from regular vitamin and mineral supplementation.
• If you are sentimentally attached to ceramic pet dish of questionable origin, you can have it tested at a laboratory, though this can cost anywhere between $35 and $80. Or, you can use a home-test kit. LeadCheck Swabs are available for about $8. Note that these swabs don’t test whether lead is present in the dish, but whether lead is leaching from the dish at the time of testing.

ALSO NOT RECOMMENDED:

Aluminum Dishes

Aluminum is a neurotoxin that can cause cognitive dysfunction and bone damage. Studies have shown that aluminum migrates or leaches into food, though exactly how much is a matter of dispute. Anodized aluminum, as used in high-quality expensive cookware, is thought to lessen or eliminate this interaction with food; this too is a matter of dispute. However, pet dishes made of aluminum are not anodized.

Plastic Dishes

Plastics used in food storage and preparation are an increasingly controversial topic. Plastics can contain a number of substances, such as formaldehyde, chlorine, and resins known to be carcinogenic (cancer-causing). Among these are polyvinyl chloride and polyethylene, which have been shown to migrate into food at high temperatures, such as those produced by microwave ovens.

To prevent this, don’t use plastic dishes if you are in the habit of warming your dog’s food in a microwave, or if you pour very hot water over his kibble a few minutes prior to serving it to him.

If your dog is apt to chew on plastic, or has ever gnawed on the edge of his plastic bowl, you should probably replace his dinnerware with something he can’t chew. Even if the chemicals in the plastic prove to be harmless, ingesting chunks of sharp-edged plastic could be fatal.

Dirty Dishes

These come in every size, color, and description, and they can be as dangerous as any carcinogen. Unless you routinely wash (with hot water and detergent) and thoroughly air-dry your dog’s food and water dish, these containers may provide an ideal site for the growth of harmful bacteria, which can cause mild or severe gastrointestinal upset and even lethal food poisoning.

As far as the food bowl goes, this risk is not great if you feed your dog nothing but dry kibble every day, but it is magnified greatly if you feed your dog raw meats and table scraps. In that case, you MUST wash his bowls daily to prevent harmful bacteria from gaining a foothold in your kitchen. It is wise to rotate water bowls, so one can air-dry while another is in use. Bacteria doesn’t grow in the absence of moisture.

So, look at your dog’s bowls. Are they covered with bits and chunks of old food? Coated with a greasy film? Is there slime growing in the water bowl? . . . Has your dog’s stomach been upset lately?

WDJ RECOMMENDATIONS:

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel, without doubt, is the number one choice of most professional dog breeders and handlers. It is safe, inexpensive, comes in a variety of sizes and shapes, and is also extremely durable and easy to clean. Stainless steel does not interact with food or water, and dogs can’t chew on it. Most pet stores and pet supply catalogs sell stainless steel dishes in a wide variety of sizes, for less than $15.

Glass

This material is a very minor player in the dog bowl trade. We include it because all of us sometimes feed and water our pets with whatever is handy, and if you must use a cast-off, glass is one of the kitchen’s safest materials – as long as it is not cracked or chipped. (If you were in the habit of licking your bowls as clean as dogs do, you’d understand.) From personal experience, however, I must add that any breakable dish that is regularly left on a kitchen floor will get broken. Call it Govier’s Law, if you will – just don’t call my dogs late for dinner.

Roger Govier is a freelance writer. He lives in San Francisco with two mixed-breed dogs.

Properly Crate Training Your Dog

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[Updated October 3, 2017]

Crates are perhaps second only to choke collars as the most misused training equipment forced upon dogs. However, unlike choke collars, there is a terrific training principle behind the use of crates.

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

crate training a dog

But before I tell you how to help your dog learn these skills, let me say what crates should not be used for.

What Dog Crates are NOT For

They are not for punishing your dog for doing something wrong; if used in this way, the dog will quickly learn to avoid ever going in the crate, or how to be as obnoxious as possible in order to get let out.

They are not for “warehousing” a number of dogs, so you don’t have too many underfoot. I have to say that breeders abuse the use of crates more than all other dog owners. You often see breeders who don’t actually want to live with the dogs they breed and raise; they use crates to contain their “merchandise,” keep it out of the way until it’s ready to sell. This is in itself objectionable, even more so when they force this prison concept of the crate upon the people who buy their dogs and puppies. I can’t tell you how many people I’ve spoken to who faithfully lock their perfectly well-behaved dogs in crates for hours every day because the breeder they bought the dog from told them they had to.

Puppies are Babies

Crates are also not for keeping puppies out of trouble all day. Puppies are just like babies; they need to be watched every minute, and few puppy owners seem to understand this. People make arrangements for their new babies to be supervised when they are at work or school or going to the movies and so on; they have to learn to do the same with puppies.

Recently, I was talking about this to a dog trainer friend from Manhattan. She was discussing this with a number of students in a dog training class, and several people were having trouble accepting it. Finally, frustrated, she told them, “Look, I’m sorry, I must end the class now, because my two-year-old daughter is at home on her own and I’ve been away for several hours, so I should get back and see how she is.” Everyone went, “WHAT?” And she said, “See? Actually, I don’t have a child, but you accept that you can’t leave one kind of baby alone; why is it any less dangerous or cruel to abandon another one?”

When the puppy gets older, say, six to 12 months old, you can begin leaving it for longer periods of time. However, you can’t just go out the door and hope for the best. You have to teach your puppy how to cope with short-term close confinement, and later, with long-term confinement.

Simply stated, crates are not for long-term close confinement of puppies or adult dogs. They are too small; any animal suffers when it is forced to stay that closely confined for more than a few hours.

Long-Term Dog Confinement

Until your new dog is house-trained, you can’t give it the run of the house all day while you are at work – it would get into trouble – but you can’t put it in the crate, either.

In my opinion, you can view each mistake a dog makes while you’re gone all day as 20 mistakes, because one puddle, or one little chew, sets the precedent for many other mistakes. And when the dog’s bladder and teeth get bigger, and bigger mistakes are made, the dog will be put outside, where it will then learn to dig and bark, and then the neighbors will complain, and then it goes into the garage as a temporary stop, before it goes to the humane society to play the Lotto of life, where only one out of eight dogs win.

So, instead, when you’re away from home, you use long-term confinement to keep him or her out of trouble. The most suitable place for teaching long-term confinement would be a bathroom, one with all the toilet paper, towels, shower curtains, and carpets removed. You’d leave only a few things in there: the dog’s bed (which could be a cozy blanket placed in a crate with the door open), an adequate supply of water, some safe hollow chew toys which are stuffed with food treats, and the dog’s toilet. For the latter, I suggest something like two short rolls of turf on a sheet of plastic. The benefit of this, rather than those commercial puppy pads, is the dog will train itself to urinate on turf or dirt.

If your new dog is extremely anxious, and it takes desperate measures to escape, such as tearing the bathroom door apart, you can’t use this method. You will need to consult a professional for advice on dealing with about extreme separation anxiety.

The long-term confinement method is a temporary measure, only meant to keep your new dog out of trouble until you have the time to potty- and house-train it.

Crates for “Potty Training”

All right. Back to what crates are for! The first proper use of a crate, as I said, is for teaching a puppy or dog to eliminate only when and where it is appropriate.

You can teach this to an adult dog within three days. This is something we did with the San Francisco SPCA in the mid-1980s, when I started the animal behavior program there. We taught the volunteers how to take home dogs that weren’t house-trained and house-train them using the umbilical cord method, where the dog is tied to your waist, so you can watch it every second. Then, every hour on the hour you take it outside, to the place where you want it to eliminate. When they do, you give them three liver treats, take them back inside, and let them off the leash for a little while. If they do not eliminate, they do not get a treat, and they go back inside still on the leash. By four days of this, there were no longer any mistakes; the dog thoroughly wants to use its dog toilet.

Puppies may or may not take a little longer to potty-train. Your consistency will make all the difference.

When at home, confine the puppy all the time that you can not watch it 110 percent. Few dogs or puppies will soil their bedrooms unless they are really desperate; don’t keep the puppy (or a dog, for that matter) in there long enough to get desperate.

Every hour on the hour, release the puppy, saying, “Let’s go potty!” and run with it to its doggie toilet. (Running is helpful because you don’t want an accident to happen on the way to the toilet, and because running “jiggles” its bladder and bowels.) Most puppies will urinate within two minutes. If it does, give it three liver treats, and go back in the house. By doing this, you actually give the puppy the desire to wait until you come home and take it outside to eliminate, because that’s the only time it can cash in its urine and feces for liver treats.

Once it has eliminated, then you can take it back into the house and turn it loose, where your empty puppy can spend some time exploring the house under supervision. Then you’ve only got to watch that it doesn’t chew the wrong things! After an hour or so, put it back into the crate, and start the process over again.

However, if it doesn’t eliminate, it goes back in the crate for another hour, and you start over again.

House-Training Your Dog

“Potty-training” is what most people are worried about, of course, but what I call “house-training” is just as important, and, fortunately, it’s a nice side-effect of crate-training. In just a matter of days, the dog will learn that every time he is confined, he gets to chew on toys, and soon, he’ll become addicted to chewing toys. That means he won’t destroy the rest of your house, and it mean he won’t become a recreational barker. He’ll still alert when the doorbell rings, but recreational chewers almost never become one of those annoying chronic barkers.

The dog will also self-train itself to settle down and to enjoy time spent when at home alone. After a week or two of this procedure, the adult dog can safely enjoy the full run of his home for the rest of his life. Again, I do not advise that puppies are left alone – for any length of time – until they are at least 12 amonths old.

Crate-Training Mistakes

The most common mistake I see people making with their crates is using it as a prison, or shoving the dog into the crate when he’s been “bad.” That’s the very best way to teach him to avoid going into the crate at any time.

Instead, a dog should regard the crate as his play room, his doggie den. Confining a dog or puppy to a crate should be on par with confining your child to a room with a TV and VCR, a Sega, and a ton of toys. This is a simple thing to teach puppies. When a puppy is tired and hungry, you put him in the crate along with his dinner and some toys, and you leave him there. He’ll eat his dinner and fall asleep.

If someone has taught an adult dog to have apprehensions about the crate, though, it will probably take at least a few days to overcome them. The process here will be a little different; he’ll need additional time to get over his anxiety that he will be locked and trapped in the crate. While you are trying to convince him of this, don’t lock and trap him in the crate!

Dog Training Theory

The point of “training” is to make the dog want to do what you want it to do. If your dog doesn’t want to be in the crate – if he has only unpleasant associations with it – use your head. How can you make a dog want to be in the crate? Food is one way.

First, I would always feed this dog in his crate, and make the most of his daily ration by feeding it to him in numerous courses – as many as a dozen, even. I’d put a little food in the crate, let him go in and eat it, and then let him out right after he’s finished. I’d also make the final course of the day a big one, mixing his kibble with some juicy canned food. Put the bowl in the crate and then shut the door, with the dog on the outside, and let the dog think about this for a while. After a minute, he’ll be saying, “Hey! Open the crate door! Let me in!” This is what training is all about. When your dog is pleading to get in its crate, let it in!

Here’s another tactic. Throw a bit of kibble in the crate. Let him go in and get it; he’ll come right out again. Do this three or four times. Then, throw a bit of kibble in, and when he goes in to get it, shut the door and immediately feed him another couple of bits of kibble through the bars. Then, let him out, and ignore him for three minutes. Then, put a bit of kibble in the crate, shut the door, feed him five bits of kibble through the bars, and then let him out and ignore him for five minutes.

The next time, put a bunch of kibble in a Kong toy, along with some freeze-dried liver and a bit of honey in the Kong, so it is difficult to get the food out, and put the Kong in the crate. Let the dog in and shut the door. Before he’s finished trying to get all the food out, after about 10 minutes, open the door, let him out, take the Kong away, and ignore him for five minutes.

What is the dog learning? “When I’m in the crate, my owner talks to me all the time, she sits next to me and reads me a book, and keeps feeding me. And there are toys in the crate. There are no toys anywhere else – that crate is OK!”

If a dog is expressing dissatisfaction with its lot, you haven’t really done your job as a trainer to teach him to want to do what you want him to do.

Every dog develops favorite places to lie down. If you’ve crate-trained your dog properly, that favorite place will be in the crate with the door open. If the dog goes there of his own accord, it’s a good sign that you have done a good job as a trainer.

Dr. Dunbar is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the creator of the K9 Games, and is best known for his SIRIUS Puppy Training program.

Alternatives to Canine Surgery

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I have a young Great Dane named “Bugsy.” I acquired him from a Dane breeder with a good reputation when he was four and a half months old. My only misgiving about the handsome pup was the discovery he had been raised on a terrible food, a brand made with poor quality ingredients and way too much protein and fat for a growing Dane puppy. Though many people think that big dogs must require lots of protein and fat to “grow so big,” giant breed dogs should be fed lower percentages of these nutrients.

Overly rapid growth of the long bones, brought on by too much protein, can bring on all sorts of growth-related problems. Research has shown that a lower protein/fat food slows the growth of the long bones, significantly reducing the possibility of common bone problems such as osteochondritis dessicans (OCD), panosteitis, and hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD) in giant breed dogs. I have always tried to feed my giant breed puppies a diet with between 20 and 23 percent protein and 13 to 15 percent fat.

Also, puppies who eat foods with poor sources of protein and fat within the first six months of life tend to have more growth-related bone problems. Higher quality ingredients assure faster absorption and better utilization of the food.

But Bugs was so gorgeous! Pushing aside my misgivings about his early diet, I bought him toward the end of last November. I immediately but slowly began replacing his old food with a new and better food. The effects of poor food are cumulative, and I hoped that the change would be early enough in his life to protect him from any bone problems.

The breeder had told me that Bugs had an elbow injury sometime in the middle of October, about a month before I purchased him. In December, when he began limping on the right front foot, I felt that the limp might be a recurrence of his old injury. But in January my worst fears were realized: radiographs revealed OCD in both shoulders.

A Crippling Disease
OCD is characterized by degeneration of the bone that lies under the articular cartilage of joint surfaces anywhere in the body. The most commonly affected joints are: the stifle, hock, elbow, or shoulder, with the latter being most prevalent. The cartilage covering the joint ends of the bones thickens, and begins to die and crack. As it dries up, little pieces of cartilage can chip off and float freely in the joint, causing pain and inflammation. In medical reference books, the causes are listed as genetics, rapid growth and/or feeding poor quality food.

In the short term, Bugsy’s treatment was limited to completely restricted exercise. My veterinarian suggested that he walk – only on a leash – and for outdoor necessity. As I had intended Bugs to be my next obedience prospect, this put a serious crimp in my plans. I also had Bugs neutered right away, a tragedy as far I was concerned, since Bugs is a lovely specimen of the Dane breed. But because OCD can be passed along to future generations, both my veterinarian and I agreed the surgery should be done.

The next task was to decide how we were going to treat Bugs’ condition. My veterinarian was strongly in favor of surgery for this condition, and felt there as little in the way of alternative treatment. I called two orthopedic surgeons to learn a bit more about the surgery and its outcome.

OCD surgery is very traumatic. The muscles must be separated, the shoulder joint “popped” apart, and any areas that have been chipped or pitted must be smoothed out. In severe cases of OCD, the head of the long bone must be scraped to stimulate growth of good tissue. Finally, the whole joint is washed out with saline solution to remove any debris.

Frankly, the financial prospect of this surgery was enough to scare me (a minimum of $1,500 PER shoulder), not to mention the trauma and risk of such radical surgery and anesthesia, twice! Danes are extremely sensitive to anesthesia, and I’ve heard that many die on the table due to heart or breathing problems while they are anesthetized. Plus, there are no guarantees that, once the surgery is performed, the dog will recover completely; he may always limp, though the gait may not worsen.

The recovery period, too, looked difficult. Following joint surgery, the dog has to be judiciously and carefully exercised for about three months – judiciously, because the dog has to exercise enough to keep the joint moving, which stimulates the production of the lubricating joint fluids, and carefully, because you don’t want the dog to strain or damage the newly healing tissues. The dog is supposed to be walked – no trotting! – in straight lines, to keep the gait as even as possible.

Needless to say, I was not thrilled about this surgery. But the pressure was on; many veterinarians, including my own, warned that if the surgery didn’t take place by the time Bugs was a year old, he could be crippled for life.

As I watched over an increasingly sore Dane pup, I voraciously researched everything I could get my hands on. I read books, magazine articles, and spent hours on the Internet, asking everyone about non-surgical options for OCD treatment. The University of Pennsylvania and University of Ohio, where extensive canine research is conducted, were particularly helpful.

Finally, a friend referred me to Dr. Cindi Bossart at the Animal Hospital of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. I was told Dr. Bossart was having “some” success with drug therapy for OCD, but when I spoke with Dr. Bossart directly, she told me her treatment had been almost 90 percent effective! Of course, she could offer me no guarantees, but I felt a bit more hopeful after speaking with her.

A Minority View
Contrary to what other veterinarians had told me, Dr. Bossart thought I had until Bugs was two years old to work on the problem without risk of crippling him. Her reasoning was that in Danes and other giant breeds, the long bone growth plates take almost twice as long to close as in average-sized dogs. The growth plate closure time is the window in which they feel the OCD surgery must occur to have the best chance of succeeding.

Dr. Bossart agreed to discuss Bugsy’s case with my veterinarian, and offer her opinion and treatment protocol for OCD. My veterinarian was willing to “try” the alternative plan, with much trepidation; I think his actual words were, “I have a great deal of doubt about this treatment plan.”

The plan called for ½ doses of injectable Adequan twice weekly, supplemented by the addition of Cosequin (and/or glucosamine and chondroitin taken orally). A full dose of Adequan is normally given at a rate of 2mg/pound animal weight, intramuscularly (IM), once a week for six to eight weeks. The protocol we followed was 1mg/pound body weight, IM, twice a week for six to eight weeks. We then gave a full dose once a week for two weeks.

The active ingredient in Adequan and glucosamine is polysulfated glycosaminoglycans (PSGAG), which is derived from bovine tracheal cartilage. Chondroitin has a similar active agent. The mechanism, or how these substances work is mostly unknown. PSGAG is characterized as a disease-modifying osteoarthritis drug. Studies have shown that PSGAG inhibits certain catabolic enzymes which have increased activity in inflamed joints.

My veterinarian started giving Bugs the Adequan shots and Cosequin (glucosamine hcl and chondroitin sulfate) in late January. I also added vitamins C and E supplements to the medical treatment. I feed all of my dogs Super Blue Green Algae (SBGA), so after three weeks, without seeing much improvement in Bugs’ movement, I began to increase his SBGA intake, too.

Around this period of time, I was also led to a certified homotoxicologist, Marina Zacharias, of Jacksonville, Oregon. Zacharias carries a variety of holistic, herbal, and homeopathic remedies, and she suggested that I add a couple more things to Bugs’ diet. She sent me some Traumeel (a homeopathic preparation thought to provide anti-inflammatory action), and two natural supplements. Bone Stim Liquescence is specifically for bone-related problems. Zacharias uses it to speeds healing of fractures, and for OCD, as it seems to help the body regulate calcium metabolism and heal bone.

Arth 9 is supposed to be in similar in action to Cosequin, but more comprehensive. Arth-9 has additional nutrients to stimulate healthy cartilage and aid in tissue repair. The added bromelain decreases inflammation, and boswellin and circumin promote joint healing, increase synovial fluids, and speed the healing of cartilage. Vitamin C, zinc, and copper provide nutritional support for the other ingredients. Overall, the product is supposed to help promote complete joint-ligament support. Poor Bugs got it all!

A Fading Limp
In early March, I began to see some improvement, a slight increase in his use of his right front leg. At Dr. Bossart’s suggestion, my veterinarian raised the dosage of glucosamine and chondroitin and continued the shots of Adequan until the first week of April. Then we discontinued the Adequan.

Our story is still in progress, but Bugs continues to show improvement. As of late May, he has not limped in about six weeks. I continue to feed Bugs his algae (I always will), and we will probably continue the chondroitin, glucosamine, Bone Stim Liquescence and Traumeel for another month or so.

I know that this isn’t how real research is done. Because I’ve given Bugsy so many different things, there is no way of knowing which one or ones might be contributing the most to his recovery. My veterinary friends think that the Adequan is probably the most active agent in Bugs’ rehabilitation, since it has been used with such positive results by Dr. Cindi Bossart in the past. I’m just happy that something is working!

State of the art surgery is a wonderful, valuable tool in our arsenal against pain and illness in our dogs, and there’s no telling whether Bugs might need it someday. But like good craftsmen, we all need more than a couple of tools in our tool boxes. Go out and research, study and discover all that alternative medicine has to offer!

-By Lyn Richards

Lyn Richards is a dog trainer and Dane lover living in Manchester, NH.

Canine Massage, Acupressure and TTouch

[Updated June 6, 2016]

Who doesn’t love petting a dog? The soft fur, the warm body and the animal’s reciprocal affection makes stroking a dog a great pleasure for people.

Petting is also good for dogs! Just as human infants can fail to thrive when deprived of affectionate contact, puppies who receive little or no contact from their handlers fail to develop as well physically or mentally as puppies who are petted and handled often. And even if their physical needs for warmth or food are provided, mature dogs can have a difficult time bonding with or responding to their human caretakers unless they receive consistent, affectionate physical contact.

But in the last 20 years, dog handlers have learned that intentional, directed touch can offer dogs even greater physical and psychological benefits than simple petting and affection. For the most part, the variety of “dog massage” methods that are taught to dog owners and practiced by professionals follow the patterns of human therapeutic touch and movement therapy: massage, acupressure, and Feldenkrais. (The latter has been adapted and expanded for use in dogs and other animals principally by Linda Tellington-Jones, creator of TTouch.)

Knowledgeable and skilled application of one or more specific healing touches have been proven to help relieve pain and diminish stress in the dog, increasing his athletic potential, overall comfort, and even, later in life, preserving his mobility and vitality.

These healing touches also give dog owners new ways to communicate with their beloved companions, improving their relationship and understanding.

While each type of touch has been demonstrated to be helpful in certain situations, each is intended to affect a different system in the dog, so, depending on your dog’s health challenge, one may be more helpful than the others. Confusing matters is a certain amount of crossover between the schools, as practitioners mix up the techniques they find helpful to their clients.

The following is a guide to therapeutic touch methods, as well as a description of the dogs who can benefit from each.

Doggy Massages: Rubbing it in

Massage is the oldest and perhaps the most instinctive touch therapy available to dog caretakers. It’s also the easiest to explain, since the effects of massage are easy to see and document.

Massage is the use of hands (usually) to rub and knead muscle tissue with several beneficial effects. To understand how massage benefits an animal (humans included), it’s important to know that muscles only “work” in one direction; they act by “contracting,” a movement that shortens the muscle, pulling the attached parts of the body in the direction of the pull. An opposing set of muscles and/or the force of gravity returns the body part in question back to its original position. Vigorous or prolonged exercise causes many repeated contractions of the muscle fibers, “pumping” them full of blood and fluids and making it difficult for the fibers to slacken and lengthen into a resting state. Massage literally loosens and unknots the contracted, tense fibers, causing considerable relief from chronically tight or spasmed muscles. It also helps restore circulation to and in the muscles tissues, helping “unclog” the circulatory system, flushing out the waste products (lactic acid) of muscle activity and bringing in healing nutrients.

Depending on the purpose of the massage and the results the therapist wants to achieve, massage therapists employ a wide range of techniques, manipulating the muscles in a variety of ways – among them, stroking, lifting, pulling, and rolling the tissue beneath their fingers.

The benefits of massage can extend beyond the realm of the physical body. Dogs who become accustomed to massage are often easier to groom or examine. And an owner or masseuse who massages a dog regularly will be more alert to immediate problems, such as the presence of fleas, ticks or cuts. She’ll also be more likely to detect more serious developments, such as chronically sore, knotted muscles or lumps beneath the skin that could indicate the presence of cancer. By palpating the muscle tissue, experienced practitioners can easily detect areas on the dog’s body that are in need of special attention, areas which may be lumpy, stringy, or chronically tense, instead of relaxed and pliable.

Find the Right Massage Therapist for Your Dog

Of the three hands-on therapies discussed here, massage is the most easily learned, by those who want to offer their services professionally as well as those who just want to learn to massage their own dogs. One could argue that this means it is the most accessible as a career to people who lack the education or experience to offer proficient and maximally therapeutic massage. Indeed, there are no certification programs or licensing organizations for canine massage therapists, even though, curiously enough, several exist for equine massage therapists and dozens exist to train people for human massage. To massage humans, or to teach others how to massage humans, a person must be credentialed and licensed; the training involves hundreds of hours of practice and study into human anatomy and physiology. But there is nothing equivalent required to massage dogs or teach dog massage professionally.

If you are considering having a canine massage therapist work on your dog or teach you how to do so, there are things you can look for:

Formal training and education. The best therapists know anatomy and physiology and have knowledge of as many massage techniques as possible, even if they use one type of massage predominantly. Ask the candidate about the courses they have taken, and how many hours of training were involved in those courses. The number should be well in the hundreds of hours. The therapist should also be able to answer questions regarding ideal treatments for a dog with specific health problems.

References. The therapist should be able to give you the names and numbers of several satisfied customers. Long-term clients are better; references from veterinarians who have observed improvements in dogs whose cases they have collaborated on would be ideal.

Ask to observe the therapist working on another client’s dog, and see how he gets along with the animal. Is the dog relaxed and happy about the experience, or anxious, tense, and trying to escape? The pressure that the therapist uses should not appear to make the dog uncomfortable.

Some of the best canine candidates for massage include dogs that put on a lot of miles every day, such as guide dogs, hunting dogs, and stock dogs, as well as “weekend warriors,” dog who lie around at home during the week while you’re at the office, and then go hiking, running or swimming with you on weekends. Older dogs with circulatory problems or degenerative arthritis (not rheumatoid arthritis) can also benefit from the soothing effects of massage.

Some therapists swear that regular massage on dogs that are prone to certain arthritic conditions, such as hip dysplasia, can help prevent those diseases. However, there are times when an owner shouldn’t massage her dog; determining these should be a matter of common sense. A dog that is so touch-shy that a massage provokes an aggressive reaction shouldn’t undergo such treatment until he’s been examined by a veterinarian for an underlying health problem. Dogs with injuries involving broken bones or broken skin, and dogs that are ill should not be massaged. Massage is not generally recommended for dogs with cancer, since the growth of some cancers can be aided by the increase in circulation that massage can bring.

Acupressure: A Timeless Art

Many massage therapists integrate varying amounts of acupressure into their massages, and, properly executed, acupressure can help relax muscles and increase blood flow. However, acupressure is not directed at the dog’s muscle tissue as it is with massage. Rather, the practitioner’s finger pressure is aimed at a theoretical body system that can’t be seen. Acupressure is a tactile variant on the ancient Chinese medical practice of acupuncture, which seeks to influence the body’s energy flow. A brief discussion of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) is necessary to understand this modality:

The central principle of TCM is that each human being and animal is filled with a life-sustaining energy called chi (pronounced chee). The chi flows through the body via pathways, called meridians, not unlike water flows through a stream. Each meridian in the body, it is believed, influences the health of a different system in the body. When the chi is flowing smoothly and harmoniously, the body is healthy. Illness, practitioners of TCM believe, stems from disruption in the flow of the chi, whether due to a deficiency or excess in a certain area. The regular, healthy flow of energy can be restored by stimulating certain points on the involved meridians.

Traditionally, the points are stimulated by needles (acupuncture), finger pressure (acupressure), or heat (moxibustion), though modern practitioners sometimes use lasers or needles that are electrified with a tiny current. To determine where and how to stimulate the flow of chi, an experienced acu-therapy practitioner would question the dog’s caretaker about any unusual symptoms the dog may be displaying. She would want to know about the dog’s usual demeanor and health routines, in an effort to ascertain what body systems and meridians may be in need of stimulation. Finally, she would conduct a physical examination, checking the entire body for signs of diminished or excessive energy or blood flow (as indicated by cold or too-warm areas on the body).

To the dismay of those who think the TCM theory behind this therapy is hogwash, acu-therapies have been shown to increase circulation, and to release endorphins (internally produced pain killers) as well as natural cortisone and other anti-inflammatory substances. Some researchers, unable to refute these substantiated results, have speculated that there is another mechanism that is responsible for the release of these natural and beneficial chemicals. The most prevalent of these explanations is that the acu-therapies alter the bioelectricity flowing along the nerves, triggering the release of neurotransmitters that, in turn, release the endorphins and cortisone chemicals. But some proponents say the theory doesn’t matter – it works!

Acupressure can be especially useful for dogs with chronic, painful conditions including arthritis, spinal problems, and hip dysplasia. It has also been used to improve neurological conditions, lameness, balance problems, allergies (including those resulting in skin dermatitis), epilepsy, and digestive disturbances.

Proponents believe that acu-therapies, including acupressure, can be used to improve or assist in the recovery from almost any medical condition. However, some practitioners caution against using acupressure if the dog is pregnant or has recently been bred, has been fed within the past three to four hours, is fatigued from exercise, or seriously ill with cancer, an infectious disease, or a high fever.

Who Can Apply Acupressure?

According to most states’ veterinary medical practice acts, anyone who uses a needle on an animal must be a licensed veterinarian. Legally, any veterinarian could perform acupuncture, whether or not they had any formal training in the art. Straddling the two worlds is the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS), which offers training and certification in acupuncture to veterinarians and veterinarians only. In order to become certified, veterinarians must take a 100-hour course, pass a four-hour written exam and a practical exam, and complete a 40-hour internship. This sounds good, but experienced TCM practitioners might argue that it takes hundreds of hours of study to become accomplished in “moving the chi.”

While acupressure can be legally performed by anyone, only someone with advanced training in TCM and the acupuncture meridians will be able to offer valuable work or instruction in this art.

The stimulation of acupressure is thought to be somewhat less direct and therefore less powerful than acupuncture, but it does has the benefit of being much more accessible to lay people than acupuncture. Any interested dog owner or therapist can be taught how to stimulate the appropriate acupressure meridians and points to improve certain health problems. Furthermore, no possible harm can arise from the gentle touch of acupressure, even if it is incorrectly applied.

However, a massage practitioner who says he also uses acupressure should be able to impart some information about which of your dog’s meridians or points he would choose to work on and why. If he is not intimately familiar with TCM theory or knowledge of the meridians, his “acupressure” is probably just a glorified massage – not bad, by any means, but not true acupressure.

T-Touch Magic

Massage and acupressure have been used on humans for centuries and have become popularized as therapies for animals in the last 20 years or so. But another important touch-based therapy, called TTouch, has emerged and been developed in just the last 20 years.

TTouch has its roots in another modern therapy developed by Israeli physicist and judo expert Moshe Feldenkrais (1904-1984). Following a serious injury, Feldenkrais took his rehabilitation into his own hands, studying physiology and movement therapies, and eventually formalizing his discoveries into a therapy he called Awareness through Movement, but which has more commonly become known as the Feldenkrais method.

Feldenkrais thought about the fact that the neural impulses that govern movement tend to follow the most-worn neural pathways, making most movement habitual and similar. This is the reason why people habitually walk with a certain rhythm and movement pattern, for instance, or sit with a distinctive posture. Through study and experimentation, Feldenkrais discovered that the body could be taught to use and develop alternatives to the most commonly used pathways, resulting in new movements that offered broader range of motion, for instance, or greater strength or efficiency. He distilled his observations into exercises he taught to others. Some of the exercises are undertaken by the subject alone, but in others, the subject remains relaxed while a Feldenkrais practitioner moves her body or limbs in a defined series of movements.

One of Feldenkrais’ students, Linda Tellington-Jones, absorbed Feldenkrais’ theories like a sponge, and brought them to bear on another world where she had extensive experience. An experienced horsewoman, Tellington-Jones began adapting Feldenkrais’ exercises for horses and other animals with great success, ultimately founding an internationally-recognized school of therapy based on her work.

Tellington-Jones’ initial area of focus was with horses, and accordingly, her program was dubbed Tellington-Jones Equine Awareness Method, or TTEAM. As Tellington-Jones developed her theories and exercises, she drew from other schools of healing therapies, eventually incorporating some aspects of acupressure, massage, and training into her healing modality, which became known as TTouch (pronounced Tee-touch). She also expanded her research to include work on all types of animals.

Like Feldenkrais, Tellington-Jones’ first work focused on movement. She found that horses with chronic gait irregularities, for instance, could be guided through a series of exercises that would somehow “reset” their brains and nervous systems, enabling them to move with a new and improved gait.

But soon, Tellington-Jones discovered that these exercises could have a profound impact on the way animals behaved toward their handlers. Often, an animal who entered a session resistant, angry, or defiant became compliant, relaxed, and friendly by the session’s end. Tellington-Jones theorized that because of the exercises “the body’s stored bad habits and responses to tension, pain, and fear are broken,” in other words, that the bad behaviors were a result of the animal’s pain and anxiety. When the animal was enabled to move in a new way, it was able to think in a new way, too.

TTouch practitioners explain that TTouch is directed at affecting the nervous system, which influences the mind and the body, helping the two systems to work together more efficiently and effectively. The nervous system sends messages back and forth from the brain to the muscles, so, by using TTouch to bring the brain (and the body’s) attention to little-used or previously damaged portions of the body, you re-establish communication with and use of the entire body and mind.

Because every cell in the body touches other cells in turn, Tellington-Jones says that “awakening” any cell in the body helps awaken the entire body, rather like turning on a series of lights. In fact, many people who have used TTouch on their dogs report that both emotional and physical problems tend to improve with the work.

While TTouch has been shown to improve animals’ mobility and movement, its ability to quickly extinguish behavioral problems has become its hallmark. Dogs who exhibit problem behaviors like excessive barking, fearfulness, resistance to touch, and chewing show rapid improvement with TTouch. But the therapy is at its best when addressing physical and emotional issues, such as recovering from past injuries or traumas which have sparked new, undesirable behavior like fear biting, cowering from strangers, or panicking at thunder.

Certified TTouch Practitioners

Because she invented this school of therapy, Tellington-Jones gets to determine how others can become “certified” TTouch Practitioners. Critics of the therapy object to the exclusivity of the process, citing the fact that only people who pay Tellington-Jones’ organization for the required extensive courses can advertise their services in the therapy without attracting the attention of the TTouch attorneys. To be fair, this exclusive training process does guarantee that all the practitioners who perform and teach this therapy are consistently and reliably trained and grounded in the same theory and techniques – a statement that can’t be made about massage or acupressure therapists.

Also unlike the other hands-on therapists, TTouch practitioners work on animals, and teach interested individuals how to use the therapy. While practitioners are happy to work with individual animals to get them through a health and/or behavior crisis, their goal is to teach the animal’s owner how to support and carry on that work, through private consultation or in group settings.

None of the three healing touches described above is intended to be a substitute for professional veterinary care and/or dog training. However, each of these tactile therapies can be used to supplement other treatments for canine ills. Armed with this understanding, an owner can use any or all of these techniques to enhance her dog’s quality of life and deepen the special bond between them.

Susan McCullough is a freelance writer from Vienna, VA. This is her first article for WDJ.

Best Dog Training Approaches

[Updated June 6, 2016]

One sunny summer day, you’re taking a stroll around the neighborhood. You pass a park and notice a dog training class in progress. The instructor is standing in a meadow with a number of dogs and owners circling her. Each of the dogs is wearing a shiny chain collar. From time to time when a dog forges ahead or lags behind, the owner jerks on the leash to bring the dog back to heel position, then pets and praises it. You hear an occasional “No!” issued in a commanding tone. The dogs appear well-behaved, and all of them are doing the same thing at precisely the same time.

You continue on, and reach another park where you see another training class. This is a more ragged-looking bunch, although also well-behaved. A half-dozen dogs are walking in different directions with their owners, turning, stopping and starting up again apparently at random. The dogs are wearing regular flat collars. Some of them also wear something around their noses that looks like a muzzle, but on closer inspection you realize it is more like a horse halter. There is no jerking, but there is much treat-tossing and talking; you hear a lot of “Yes!” and an occasional, odd, clicking noise. Since you have been thinking about signing your dog up for training, you pause to ponder the differences between the two groups.

Both of these groups are beginning dog training classes. They both can produce dogs that are well-trained. The main differences between the two are the methods used in training, and the philosophies and behavior theories behind those methods.

Best Dog Training Approaches

The Dog Training Spectrum

All dog training techniques fit somewhere on a long continuum, from seriously harsh and abusive punishment-based methods at one extreme, to pure positive reinforcement at the other. Neither extreme is likely to be very practical or effective, nor will you find many trainers who recommend using only methods from one end or the other. Most trainers use a combination of techniques that place them somewhere between the two ends of the continuum. Which side of center they are on defines them as primarily compulsion-based trainers or primarily positive ones.

Within the dog training community the debate about methods is generally good-natured, albeit spirited. Hackles get raised when trainers, who tend to be an opinionated lot, disagree on the very best method to resolve a particular canine behavior challenge. But when the dust settles, good humor returns, and on at least one electronic discussion list for trainers the participants tease each other and mock themselves with self-deprecating labels like “Treat-Slinging Weenies” and “J&Ps” (jerk and praisers).

Why the diversity in training protocol? Because there are, in fact, numerous training approaches that can successfully teach a dog to do what we ask, and because people bring an infinite number of philosophical, cultural, emotional, and ideological differences to the training profession.

Variety is the spice of life, it’s true, but the number and variety of training styles available can make things a little confusing when you go looking for a trainer or an obedience class for your new dog. Would you have any idea of what an instructor meant if she told you that her program was all about “positive punishment and compulsion training?” Or if another trainer told you that he teaches only “clicker training?”

The following will provide you with definitions for these terms and more. Armed with this glossary, you’ll be able to “talk training” with people from all schools of canine behavior modification, to find a class format that works best for your and your dog.

Canine Behavioral Theories

In behavioral terms, training is known as “conditioning behavior.” We really aren’t teaching our dog any new behaviors when we train. She already knows how to sit, lie down, stay in one place, walk by our side, or come running to us from far away – when she wants to. She just may not know how to do it (or may not choose to do it) when we ask her to. Training is conditioning (or teaching) the dog to reliably give us the behaviors we ask for, when we ask for them.

Best Dog Training Approaches

In classical conditioning, as first described by Pavlov, there is an association between a stimulus and a response, or behavior. (A stimulus is something that elicits a response.) This is the famous “ring a bell, the dog salivates,” experiment that most of us learned about in high school psychology classes. Classical conditioning can generally be used to teach only very simple behaviors.

Operant conditioning is most commonly used for training, because it can be used to teach complex behaviors and behavior “chains,” a series of behaviors strung together. With operant conditioning there is an association between a behavior and its consequence. The dog does something, then something happens as a result of the dog’s behavior. There are four ways that this works. Two are labeled “positive,” which means, in this usage, that the dog’s behavior makes something appear. Two are labeled “negative,” which means the dog’s behavior makes something go away. The “something” may be pleasant or unpleasant, but it is not what the terms “positive” and “negative” refer to.

1. Positive reinforcement: The dog’s behavior makes something good happen. For example, when the dog walks next to you without pulling on the leash, she gets a treat (treat = good thing).

2. Positive punishment: The dog’s behavior makes something bad happen. Example: If the dog pulls on the leash, her neck gets jerked to bring her back to heel position (jerk on neck = bad thing).

3. Negative punishment: The dog’s behavior makes something good go away. Example: When the treat is used as a lure to keep the dog walking in heel position, she may jump up to get it. The treat is hidden until she stops jumping. Every time she jumps up the treat is hidden, until she stays on the ground as the treat is offered (treat = good thing; hidden = “goes away”).

4. Negative reinforcement: The dog’s behavior makes something bad go away. Example: A no-pull harness puts pressure on the dog’s chest as long as the dog puts pressure on the leash. When the dog stops pulling, the pressure stops. (pressure = bad thing; no pulling = bad thing “goes away”).

Compulsion Training for Dogs

Traditional compulsion-based training works on the philosophy that we have to show the dog who is boss. She must do what we say, and quickly. If she doesn’t, we immediately correct her or she will learn that she can ignore our commands. The primary tool for compulsion trainers is positive punishment (the dog’s behavior makes something bad happen, like a jerk on the leash), often followed by a treat, a pat, and or verbal praise to keep up the dog’s enthusiasm for the training process. (Note: Twenty years ago, traditional trainers abhorred the use of food treats as praise. This thinking has changed quite a bit in the last decade, though holdouts still exist.)

Compulsion training works, as demonstrated by decades of well-behaved dogs. Proponents argue that the small amount of discomfort that the dogs experience is worth the end result of a reliable, promptly responsive dog, and skilled trainers use the minimum amount of force necessary to get the job done. But this approach can be problematic with very dominant or independent dogs who don’t take kindly to being pushed and pulled around and may decide to argue back. In this case, a person taking this approach must be prepared to use enough force to get their message across quickly, and be willing to escalate the level of force if necessary. Potentially dangerous techniques like “scruff shakes” and “alpha rolls” work only if the trainer is strong enough to persevere if the dog fights back. Many owners and trainers are either unwilling or unable to use this kind of force with their dogs.

Timid, submissive or sensitive dogs may also not do well with positive punishment. Forceful corrections can cause them to melt into a puddle on the floor, and miscalculations can cause damage to the owner’s or trainer’s relationship with the dog.

Yet another concern about compulsion training is the possible damage to a dog’s throat from a standard choke chain collar, which can exert tremendous pressure on a dog’s trachea. They are not recommended for puppies under the age of six months, yet it is more and more widely accepted that starting puppies in training classes at the age of 10 weeks is ideal, in order to take advantage of a pup’s critical socialization and learning period. Prong collars reputedly distribute the pressure more evenly around the neck and are less likely to do damage, but many owners understandably shy away from using the medieval looking spikes on their tender baby puppies.

The Esteemed Clicker Training

“Clicker trainers” is a slang term for individuals who use positive reinforcement as their first method of choice, combined with an audible signal to indicate the desired behavior. These trainers operate on a different training philosophy from the compulsion trainers, preferring to get the dog to offer the desired behavior voluntarily, then mark and reward it when it does. (The marker signal, or “bridge,” can be the Click! of the clicker, a whistle, some other mechanical sound, or a word. “Yes!” is frequently used to mark a correct behavior.)

Best Dog Training Approaches

Since all living creatures tend to repeat behaviors that are rewarding, behaviors that are repeatedly marked and rewarded by a dog’s owner get offered more and more frequently. Behaviors that are ignored (not rewarded) tend to go away, or “extinguish.”

Take, for example, the puppy who wants to jump up on everyone. Dogs greet each other face-to-face, so it is natural for our dogs to want to greet our faces. Plus, when they are cute little puppies we pick them up and cuddle them in our arms, thereby rewarding them for being “up.” Small wonder that so many dogs jump on people!!

Many of the suggested compulsion approaches to correcting jumping behavior actually reward the very behavior we are trying to extinguish. When the dog jumps up, she touches us. That’s a reward. We look at her. Eye contact is a reward. We speak to her to tell her to get off. We are paying attention to her – that’s a reward! We reach down to push her away. We touched her – another reward!! For some rowdy dogs, even the time-honored “knee her in the chest” is an invitation to start a rousing game of body-slam.

The positive reinforcement approach (the dog’s behavior makes something good happen) relies on the principal that behaviors that are ignored will extinguish. But how do you ignore an enthusiastic, obnoxious canine who is leaping up to greet you nose-to-nose, inflicting multiple bruises and lacerations in the process? Just standing still doesn’t work; she gets all kinds of self-rewards by jumping all over you. Instead, we turn our back on the dog and step away. As the dog tries to come around to face us, we do it again. Turn away and step away, over and over. Sooner or later (and with most dogs this happens much sooner than you would imagine) the dog gets frustrated and confused, and sits down to puzzle out your bizarre behavior. Bingo! Now you turn toward her, tell her “Yes!” and feed her the treat from the stash you keep in your pockets in anticipation of opportunities just like this. You can also pet her and praise her. If she jumps up again, repeat the process. The theory goes that before you know it, she will have figured out that in order to get the attention she craves as quickly as possible, she needs to sit when she approaches you, not jump.

Actually, the latter approach also uses negative punishment: the dog’s behavior (jumping up) causes something good (you) to go away. Then, when she sits and you give her a treat and attention, it is positive reinforcement – the dog’s behavior (sitting) causes something good (treat and attention) to happen.

Clicker trainers use primarily positive reinforcement, but will also use varying degrees of negative punishment, negative reinforcement and positive punishment, depending on the dog and the individual trainer’s own comfort level and skill with the various methods.

Proponents of positive reinforcement training claim that a training approach based on rewards rather than punishment builds trust in the human-canine relationship and encourages the dog to think for herself and freely make deliberate choices of rewardable behavior rather than living in fear of being punished for making a wrong choice. Proponents of the approach state that dogs trained with these methods tend to be more willing to think for themselves, choose “right” behaviors, take risks, and offer new behaviors than do dogs who have been physically corrected for making mistakes.

Of course, it is not always possible to ignore a dog’s inappropriate behavior. Some unwanted behaviors are self-rewarding, destructive, or unsafe, like barking at the mail carrier, chewing electrical cords or chasing cars. Management should be the first solution. It is easier to prevent unwanted behaviors than it is to correct them. It is far easier to keep your dog properly confined in a fenced yard or on a leash than it is to stop a dog with a strong prey drive from chasing cars, cats, joggers or skateboarders.

While you manage the behavior, you also work to train a better level of control so the dog becomes more reliable around highly enticing stimuli. Another approach is the use of a “No Reward Marker” or NRM. The NRM is a signal to let the dog know she made a mistake. It is not applied angrily, just used in a neutral tone to let the dog know that the behavior didn’t earn a reward. Commonly used NRMs include “Oops,” “Try again,” or the sound “Uh!” or “At!” A properly-used NRM tells the dog that the behavior offered was not the one requested, and encourages the dog to try again.

Yet another positive behavior-correction method is to ask for (and reward) an incompatible behavior. A dog can’t lie on her rug in the living room and bark at the visitor on the front porch at the same time. If we teach her that the doorbell is the cue to go lie down on her rug and stay there, she will no longer greet your guests with her sometimes unwelcome exuberance.

The Ongoing Debate

There is no lack of debate between trainers about the effectiveness of their various training approaches. Take the case of an aggressive dog. Compulsion trainers believe that such a dog must be physically corrected for the least sign of aggression: hackles raised, intense stare, growling. This teaches the dog that the behavior is not acceptable.

Positive reinforcement trainers suggest that a better approach is to change the way the dog thinks about the aggression-causing stimulus by associating it with positive things. If the dog’s instinct is to get aggressive around children, for instance, the trainer might quickly give the dog a treat every time his canine student encounters children, so the dog will begin to associate the presence of children with “Good things happen,” and the aggression will fade. Aggressive behavior is not lurking beneath the surface, because the dog no longer thinks of children as a threat; they are now a source of good things.

The arguments between the devotees of the various training camps will rage on forever. Clicker trainers tend to believe that force-based training dampens a dog’s enthusiasm for learning, and “stifles their creativity.” Compulsion trainers often express the view that reward-trained dogs won’t perform reliably under stress. Clicker trainers say that violence begets violence, and that many dogs who are euthanized for biting were made worse by physical corrections. Compulsion trainers argue that their methods are faster, and that sometimes the use of force can cause quicker behavior changes that save a dog’s life whose owner is at the breaking point and on the verge of sending the dog to the shelter.

Deciding on what training methods to use is up to the owners, but they can look to their dogs for help in making the choice. In the end, our dogs tell us the truth. We can find pet dogs and obedience show ring competitors from both training styles that are happy, reliable, willing workers, and we can find dogs from both training styles that are poorly trained and out of control.

In my admittedly biased experience, I’ve seen better results with the non-force-based methods; yes, I, too, am a “treat-slinging weenie.” I see much larger percentages of dogs in compulsion-based classes grudgingly complying with commands or looking bored or disgruntled than I see in positive reinforcement classes, where enthusiasm usually abounds among all students in the class, two-legged and four-legged alike. And I believe that pet owners left to their own devices are more likely to follow their hearts and choose a gentle, non-violent training methods, while those owners who have been conditioned by past trainers and the pressure of competition to believe that a little “pop on the collar” won’t hurt the dog, will more quickly accept force-based training.

Now let’s go back to our imaginary stroll around the neighborhood. You’re ready to sign up for a class, and just have to decide which one. Just put yourself in your dog’s place for a moment and ask yourself which kind of class she’d prefer to go to. She’ll give you the answer.

Pat Miller is a dog trainer and freelance writer from Salinas, CA.

Benefits of Vitamin C to Your Dog

Vitamin C for your dog offers many potential benefits.

For humans, a source of vitamin C in the diet is literally necessary for survival. Early sailors deprived of fresh foods for extended lengths of time often suffered from “scurvy,” a nasty affliction characterized by bleeding gums, loss of teeth, a weakened condition, and sometimes death. It wasn’t until the late eighteenth century that Captain James Cook, the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands, taught the British Admiralty how to prevent scurvy by adding fresh fruit or lime juice to its sailors’ daily ration of rum (thus earning them the nickname of “Limeys” that endures to this day).

In the early 1900s, ascorbic acid was isolated and identified as the nutrient that prevented scurvy. Humans, it was discovered, are among the few animals that cannot manufacture vitamin C in their own bodies, and must obtain it from an outside source (fresh fruits, vegetables, or vitamin C pills) on a regular basis in order to avoid illness.

Dogs, however, can produce vitamin C in their bodies, and because of this ability, nutritionists have long considered it unnecessary to add C to a dog’s diet. Until recently, few dog food makers added vitamin C to their products – or if they do, it was for the preservative action of the vitamin, rather than its nutritive value.

husky puppy

Vitamin C Benefits Sick and Stressed Dogs

This may be appropriate when dealing with healthy unstressed animals, but recent clinical observations indicate that when dogs are sick or stressed, they can rapidly deplete their bodies’ output of vitamin C. A 1942 study noted that dogs with skin diseases usually have very low amounts of vitamin C in their blood.

Other researchers have found the blood levels of vitamin C to be low – and even non-existent – in dogs with fevers and dogs who have exercised to their limits (sled dogs after a race, for example, or hunting dogs in the middle of hunting season).

Stress is the best-known cause of vitamin C depletion in dogs. Physical stress comes in many forms: gestation, lactation, growth, hard work (dogs used for herding, hunting, tracking, etc.), vaccinations, injuries, tail-docking or ear cropping, or illness. Emotional stress, whether caused by relocation, weaning, or demanding training, can also deplete this reserve. In fact, researchers can measure the level of stress a dog experiences by measuring the degree of depletion of the vitamin in the dog’s blood.

Conversely, many studies have found that dogs (as well as humans) that are supplemented with vitamin C show greater resistance to disease, and a better ability to recover from injuries or illness.

How Vitamin C Affects Dogs

Wendell O. Belfield, DVM, is perhaps the world’s best-known and most ardent advocate of vitamin C supplementation for dogs. In his book, “How to Have a Healthier Dog,” Belfield describes how he first came to experiment with (and appreciate) the power of vitamin C in his veterinary practice.

Following a particularly heartbreaking episode, where he was unable to save the life of a beloved family dog that had distemper, he began researching viral diseases. In the course of his studies, he came across an article about a doctor who used massive doses of vitamin C to successfully treat viral diseases such as polio and hepatitis in the 1940s. Belfield began wondering whether C could be used to combat canine viral diseases.

One day in 1965, another client came to Belfield’s office with a dog that was suffering from distemper. Belfield decided to try an injection of vitamin C on the dog, and it responded dramatically, surviving what he had been taught in veterinary school was a fatal disease for which there is no successful treatments.

Following this success, Belfield began experimenting with vitamin C treatments for all kinds of conditions in dogs. His trials and studies have convinced him of the tremendous power that the vitamin holds for dogs.

According to the “Encylcopedia of Nutritional Supplements,” by Michael T. Murray (1996, Prima Publishing), vitamin C improves immune function by enhancing white blood cell function and activity. It also increases the blood levels of interferon (the body’s natural antiviral and anticancer compound) and antibodies (proteins that bind to and destroy foreign material such as bacteria, viruses, and toxins).

Vitamin C is commercially available by itself or combined with other nutrients in a number of forms. See Which Form of Vitamin C is the Best?, below, for information about your options.

Antioxidants and Bioflavonoids

Vitamin C acts in the body as an antioxidant. Oxidation is the chemical reaction of oxygen combining with another substance, and oxidation of food by an animal is a natural process which provides both the heat and the energy needed to keep the body running. Too much or too little oxygen in the system, however, can create toxic by-products called free radicals, which can damage cell structure, impair immunity, and alter DNA codes.

As an antioxidant, vitamin C acts as both an oxygen interceptor (thus protecting the cells from being destroyed or altered by oxidation) and as a scavenger of free radicals. It not only prevents oxidation, but will, for instance, return oxidized vitamin E back to its original state by stealing an oxygen molecule away from the E molecule. Thus vitamin C is a restorative substance that inhibits tissue and collagen degeneration by working in conjunction with the other vitamins and minerals that protect the body and its systems.

As a demonstration of the antioxidant powers of vitamin C, try the following: Dissolve a 1000 milligram tablet of the ascorbic acid form in a large bowl of water. Take some lettuce that has been in the refrigerator a little too long and is getting slightly brown around the edges. Dunk the lettuce in the water for several minutes, then drain it and notice the change. The lettuce should be crisper, fresher and some or all of the brown tinge will be gone. You have just reversed the effects of oxidation! Apple or potato slices can also be dunked in vitamin C solutions to prevent browning. (Antibrowning agents sold for home canning are usually ascorbic acid powder.)

Many types of vitamin C sold also contain bioflavonoids, which are naturally-occurring plant pigments which the body can use to manufacture other nutrients. Beta-carotene, for example, is the bioflavonoid used by the body to manufacture vitamin A. Hesperidin, rutin, acerola, rose hips, citrus bioflavonoids, and bioflavonoid complex are all bioflavonoids commonly used in vitamin C products.

Occasionally supplementing your dog’s diet with grated carrots or apples, or offering him any other fresh fruit he finds palatable are great ways to enhance his bioflavonoid intake. Fresh, ripe melons and peaches are two fruits that many dogs enjoy.

Ways to Use Vitamin C on Dogs

Time and further studies are bearing out Belfield’s findings. Today, vitamin C is routinely prescribed by holistic veterinarians for a number of illnesses, including cancer, kennel cough and other respiratory infections, abscesses, and other bacterial infections. Due to its important role in maintaining the health of collagen, it appears to be especially helpful for slowing – and some say, reversing – degenerative joint disease, hip dysplasia, and spinal disorders.

The use of vitamin C as a preventative and immune booster are also celebrated. Some veterinarians suggest giving C to dogs before and after vaccination, to dogs that have been exposed to contagious diseases, to pregnant and lactating dogs, and for healthy teeth and gums.

According to Belfield, young dogs and old dogs can benefit the most from routine vitamin C supplements. Due to the extensive stresses faced by puppies and young dogs, such as numerous vaccinations, surgical procedures on dewclaws, tails, and ears, and the demands of rapid growth, he suggests that all young dogs receive C.

As they get old, dogs become less proficient at producing their own supply of vitamin C, and more in need of antioxidants. Administering vitamin C to even very old and feeble dogs, says Belfield, can reinvigorate and strengthen them.

Vitamin C Dosage for Dogs

The average dog normally produces about 18 milligrams of vitamin C per pound of body weight per day. Therefore, for a dog that is free of clinically significant symptoms but is experiencing unusual stress, supplementation with about that much C per day appears be a conservative maintenance dosage. (About 500 milligrams for a 28-lb. dog daily.) To increase absorption, veterinarians recommend splitting the total daily dosage into several feedings during the day.

However, many holistic veterinarians routinely suggest maintenance doses that are three to four times that amount. They explain that modern, domestic dogs need more vitamin C than the theoretical “natural” dog, since their bodies must deal with so many challenges: stress, pollution, chemicals and pesticides, and poor diets, to name a few.

Too much vitamin C, especially if given in one dose, will cause diarrhea in dogs. What amount is too much varies from dog to dog, so, when administering the maximum amount of C for a therapeutic (not just maintenance) dose, many veterinarians will suggest that you increase the dose in 100-500 milligram-per-day increments until the dog develops diarrhea, then reduce his daily dose to the previous day’s dose. (This is often referred to as dosing to “bowel tolerance.”)

Individuals dogs may be more or less tolerant of vitamin C supplements, and their tolerance may change with environmental conditions. For instance, a dog that is experiencing great stress may tolerate 4,000 milligrams without diarrhea, but develop the condition as the stress is removed. The owner’s awareness of the quality of the dog’s stool is critical to appropriate dosing.

The type of illness being treated should also be considered when determining the dose. Some guidelines published by holistic veterinarians include:

Richard Pitcairn, DVM, “Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.” Pitcairn suggests giving 100-500 milligrams (based on the dog’s size) of vitamin C daily to dogs that are exposed to unusually high amounts of pollutants.

Cheryl Schwartz, DVM, “Four Paws, Five Directions: A Guide to Chinese Medicine for Cats and dogs.” Schwartz suggests giving vitamin C to dogs with a variety of illnesses, including upper respiratory conditions (small dogs, 125 to 500 mg. twice daily; medium dogs, 250-1,500 mg. twice daily; large dogs, 500-1,500 mg. twice daily), arthritis (to bowel tolerance), infected ears (small dogs, 250-500 mg. twice daily; large dogs, 500-1,000 mg. twice daily), and skin allergies (small dogs, 125 mg. twice daily; medium and large dogs, up to 750 mg. twice daily).

It’s important to remember that a healthy, happy dog with a quality diet and little stress probably has no need of supplementation with vitamin C. However, if stress, illness, or age causes a dog’s need for vitamin C to outstrip his ability to produce it, supplementing him with C is a sensible choice.

What Form of Vitamin C is the Best?

Assuming you have a dog that would benefit from vitamin C supplementation, what options are there? Many vitamin C supplements labeled and sold specifically for dogs use ascorbic acid, the only naturally occurring form of vitamin C.

Unfortunately, among all the vitamin C supplements on the market, ascorbic acid has the poorest absorption rate by the body. However, the salt forms of vitamin C, known as ascorbates, are easily absorbed in the intestinal tract of humans, dogs, and other mammals.

Don’t like the idea of a vitamin C supplement for your dog? You can find a great list of whole food sources of vitamin C here.

As the information below explains in detail, for dogs, the sodium ascorbate form of vitamin C appears to be the best choices in terms of cost, bioavailability, and effectiveness. Before you start shopping for a vitamin C supplement, it is important to be aware of the differences between the various forms.

Ascorbic Acid

This is the naturally occurring form of vitamin C. A tarttasting organic acid (pH 2.5-3.0) in crystalline form, this is the form of vitamin C most frequently used in vitamin C pills for humans. When given in high concentrations or in single large doses, however, ascorbic acid is not efficiently absorbed by dogs or humans and can cause diarrhea. Using smaller doses several times a day can alleviate this symptom. Most dogs find powdered forms of ascorbic acid to be unpalatable due to its tartness.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Although vitamin C is considered a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble form called ascorbyl palmitate is also available, and is thought to act synergistically with other antioxidants (see, Antioxidant and Bioflavonoids, above). Although oral administration of this form is three times more efficient than the ascorbic acid form, ascorbyl palmitate costs about six times as much as ascorbic acid.

Calcium Ascorbate

Vitamin C can also come in the form of salts called mineral ascorbates (compounds formed by replacing all or part of the hydrogen ions of an acid with one or more metallic ions). These forms of vitamin C – known as calcium ascorbate and sodium ascorbate – are easily absorbed anywhere in the human intestinal tract and in that of most mammals. These are thought to be the most gentle (buffered) forms of vitamin C and cause the fewest side effects such as diarrhea or heartburn.

Calcium ascorbate, a pH-neutral, slightly bitter powder, is one commercially available mineral ascorbate. Many health practitioners are of the opinion that calcium ascorbate gives the best results in the relief of arthritic symptoms. It is also considered by holistic veterinarians to be the most beneficial form of vitamin C for use in horses.

Ester C Calcium Ascorbate

Most of the results which have been published regarding the use of vitamin C in horses and dogs have been in trials using a patented form of C known as Ester C calcium ascorbate. Like the pure forms of calcium and sodium ascorbate, Ester-C is nonacidic with a neutral pH and does not cause gastrointestinal upset. This product is the result of a unique method of manufacturing mineral ascorbates, which yields what are called metabolites as well as the minerals and the ascorbates. Thus, Ester C calcium ascorbate is a combination of calcium, ascorbate, and metabolites (including a substance known as threonate).

Pure calcium ascorbate is simply calcium and ascorbate. Pure sodium ascorbate is sodium and ascorbate. When these and all other forms of vitamin C are processed in the body, metabolites (including threonate) are naturally occurring products. The patent holder of the Ester C brand, Intercal Corporation, claims the presence of metabolites, especially threonate, in their product before intake into the body increases cellular absorption and longevity of vitamin C in the bloodstream.

However, these observations were made when the product was compared to ascorbic acid. The company has not released results of studies (if there are any) comparing Ester C directly to the pure forms of calcium and sodium ascorbate.

Sodium Ascorbate

Another readily available and easily absorbed salt is sodium ascorbate, a pH-neutral granular powder with a slightly saline taste. Sodium ascorbate is easily absorbed by the body, and studies have also shown that it stays in the system twice as long as the acid form. Sodium ascorbate is the only form of vitamin C approved by the FDA for intravenous injection in humans. It is also the preferred form for oral megadoses in humans because it does not irritate the intestinal tract and the excess is easily eliminated without harm to the kidneys.

Dr. Wendell Belfield, the leading advocate of vitamin C supplements for dogs, vastly prefers using this form of the vitamin for dogs. Belfield says his own tests have proven it to be the most effective form; he manufactures and markets C supplements for pets (Mega C Plus and Mega C Drops, which utilize sodium ascorbate.

Choose the purest product at the best price:

Once you decide on which form of vitamin C you want, the least expensive sources are usually mail-order distributors that sell vitamins for human consumption. Here are some tips for comparing product content and price:

1) For the best price on the active ingredient, purchase “pure” vitamin C products. Skip products with added ingredients such as bioflavonoids and vegetable fillers. Bioflavonoids may be listed as bioflavonoid complex, rutin, hesperidin, rose hips, and acerola (see Antioxidants and Bioflavonoids, above).

2) Look for product listed as USP pure. USP stands for United States Pharmacopoeia. This refers to a list of standards established by the Food and Drug Administration that governs methods of manufacture and degree of purity for products that are designated as pharmaceutical grade.

3) For ease in feeding dogs, use a powder or crystal form. On average, one teaspoon of pure powder or crystals contains five grams (5,000 milligrams) of vitamin C, so an average maintenance dose for a healthy dog will be 1/8 – 1/4 of a teaspoon. Tablets are sometimes less expensive, but you will have to grind them up or find a way to get your dog to swallow them.

4) To compare prices you need a standard unit to compare. This can be difficult, since manufacturers sometimes use different units of measure, but grams are the most common. You’ll have to do some converting to be able to compare prices, and obviously, this will only be applicable to the pure forms of the vitamin (those not mixed with any other nutrients or fillers).

Moving On After Losing an Older Dog

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The occasion of getting a new puppy or dog should be just as joyous as bringing a much-wanted and long-anticipated baby into the world. In the best of possible worlds, the dog’s new family is welcoming, loving, and eager to learn as much as possible about and share as much as possible with the latest addition to the family. The transition almost always goes smoothly when the family is experienced with dogs, and already knows about providing healthful diets and gentle teaching for their canine companions. Every so often, however, I meet very knowledgeable and caring dog people who experience undue conflict and tumult while they are getting used to their new dogs. When I know that the people involved know how to properly take care of a dog – that the problem is not simply a lack of knowledge about how to help the new dog succeed in the household – I suspect that the problem is not with the new dog. Often, I’ve found, the issue is actually one that was never resolved concerning the family’s last dog.

The Last Dog Was the “Best”

old corgi

Usually, we expect to outlive our dogs. Though we don’t generally think about it when we bring home a new puppy, we know that he’ll eventually grow into an adult, and then a senior dog. By the time his muzzle and legs turn white and he moves a little slower, our feelings for him will be without compare. After a lifetime together, he will become “the best dog” we’ve ever known. By the time our old dogs pass away, most of us have forgotten that there ever was a time when our “best dogs” weren’t perfect companions. We forget the trying days of puppyhood, when a few of our favorite possessions get chewed up, and when accidents happen on our rugs. We forget about how much time it took us to habituate the young dog to riding peacefully in our cars and playing non-destructively in our gardens. What we tend to remember is how wonderfully behaved our old friend was, how easy it was to spend time with him, how he always knew how to make us happy. So when we get a new dog or puppy, it’s difficult not to make comparisons. But these comparisons will interfere with binding a relationship and honoring the gifts this new soul brings into our lives. Remember, it will take some time for the newcomer to walk in the idealized old dog’s footprints.

Avoiding Comparisons Between Pets

To avoid comparisons, some people choose a dog who is totally unlike the previous pet so they will not be constantly reminded of their loss. Others prefer to have one who resembles their previous dog because the look makes them feel warm inside. Whatever you choose to do, be open and honest with your new dog. Tell him each and every day how special he is and how honored you are to be his person. Let him know about the dog who died; tell him that your tears may flow sometimes with memories but that does not mean you will not be able to appreciate the gifts he has brought to share with you.

Unfinished Mourning

Another mistake people make is to obtain a dog before having completed the mourning process for their old dog. Sometimes people have difficulty with the mourning process. They cannot let go of the memories and are devastated by the loss. Bach Flower remedies can help the bereaved in these cases. Talking and being with people who understand can also help the process; professional grief counselors and pet grief support groups can work miracles. However, no one should ever be rushed through this process. Some well-meaning friends may say “It’s time to move on, you’ve got to get on with your life, get over it – he was just a dog, why not just get another dog,” etc. A person in this position should pay no attention to these types of comments. Some of us love our dogs very deeply, and we bond with them in special, unique ways. For us, dogs are not replaceable. We need time and understanding to heal from the loss before we will be ready to love another dog. It’s very important that no one be allowed to force a new dog on someone else. A spouse, friend or well-meaning relative may try to buy a puppy to “help you forget.” They should be politely told that we will never forget and we do not want to forget. We will remember our lost dog all of our lives and eventually, we will remember him or her with great joy. Then, when the time is right, we would like the luxury of being chosen by our next dog!

Case in Point

Once a woman came to my puppy teaching class with an eight-week-old terrier-mix puppy. She said she wanted help with what she characterized as “all the usual puppy problems,” but from the very first puppy class, I could tell she was dealing with more than “all the usual puppy problems.” She seemed very detached from her puppy. She never made eye contact with him and almost seemed afraid of him. The puppy, too, seemed to be having trouble with the relationship. He made a few attempts to engage her, and then gave up and decided it was more fun to play with the other puppies. I just figured they were getting used to each other and after a week of working with her puppy things would improve. Boy, was I wrong! When she came back the following week, it was evident to the whole class that something was not right. As she entered the teaching center, the puppy strained to get away from her and wanted nothing to do with her. She actually seemed relieved that the puppy had the other dogs to play with. She was content to totally ignore him during the entire class. As I worked with the class, I surreptitiously watched her and her puppy, and thought about how I could best help the emotionally distant duo. As the session ended, I asked the woman if she could stay after class for a few minutes. I told her that I thought she had chosen a wonderful puppy. He was cute, funny, playful, and had the potential to be a great companion dog. He was very smart, very social, and really wanted to be friends with everyone. I then asked her how she felt about the pup. Her response was unemotional and non-committal. She said she liked the dog well enough but he was simply not the same as her dog who had died. Immediately the picture was clear to me. She was comparing the puppy to a deceased dog who had lived with her a very long time. Plus, she had not chosen to get the puppy. Her dog had been dead less than a month when her husband brought home the pup “to help her get over the loss.” She wanted to like the puppy, but felt guilty, as if she were betraying the memory of her former dog. Every time she looked at the new puppy she remembered the other dog and could not shake her feelings of sadness and guilt. We sat and talked for a while. I asked her to tell me a little about her old dog and she cried and reminisced about him. I could tell that they had loved each other deeply. After our talk, she said she felt a little better. I then told her not to worry about the homework assignment I had given the rest of the class because I had a different and special assignment for her.

Healing Ceremony

I told her to go home and light candles and incense in memory of her dog. Then I wanted her to curl up somewhere comfortable with her puppy and tell him all about her old dog. I wanted her to tell the puppy several of the memories that made her cry and several memories that made her laugh. She was to share as much of the joy and sorrow she had shared with her old dog with this brand new little dog. I told her she might feel foolish doing this but it was important. It was immediately evident the next week when they returned to class that a miracle had happened. They came in and were bonded with each other. You could see it in their faces. The two of them actually looked physically different. Everyone in the class remarked about the change. They proceeded to become the best students in class, due to a powerful connection between them. Their love for each other was evident in every interaction they shared. After class, the woman came up to me and hugged me and thanked me for the advice I had given her. She said she went home and did everything I had suggested. She said she didn’t feel silly, and that she had laughed and cried buckets of tears. Afterward, as she hugged and kissed her puppy, she realized for the first time how adorable his face was. Nothing has been the same since then!

You’ll Be Ready Only When You’re Ready

Some people get very stuck in the mourning process. They cannot get over the loss and vow they will never have another dog. They say the heartache of losing a dog is just too much to bear and they never want to go through that kind of pain again. When I hear people talk that way, it hurts me to think of all the devotion, joy, and love their dog gave to them and all they can remember is the pain of the final moments. After all, in the grand scheme of things, death is just a brief moment. It shouldn’t erase the wonder of a lifetime of giving. It seems to me, the greatest honor we can pay a deceased pet is to mourn the pet, heal during the process, and then be ready to love and learn from another dog. This says that having a dog is a worthwhile experience. The pain of losing this dog should not overshadow the joy of having a dog in our life. When a dog leaves this life, allow yourself the time and luxury of a mourning period. There is no manual to tell you how to mourn or how long. You will mourn until you are finished with the process. When you find you are laughing or smiling at the memories of your deceased pet instead of crying at the mere thought of him, when you’re looking in pet shop windows and in the pet column in the classified ads, stopping to look at the free puppies in front of the supermarket, or just feeling that there is now room in your heart to love a new four-legged wonder, then you are healed. If you let your new dog share your truth, your love, and your heart, you’ll find that he’ll very quickly become your new “best dog.” Linda Goodman operates PORGIE Teaching Center in Riverside, CA.

Fighting Cases of Heartworm in Dogs

Heartworms are horrible. No arguments there. Anyone who has ever known or had an infected dog knows how slowly but surely the parasites can sap the animal’s strength and vitality. Going through the treatment to kill the heartworm is no walk in the park either. The “cure” is quite capable of killing the dog in the process of trying to save its life.

But some people just don’t like the idea of giving the dog the chemical preventatives that can keep the pooch safe from infestation. And some dogs are sensitive to the drugs, reacting to each dose with vomiting, diarrhea, and other symptoms.

Heartworm is one of those health issues where an aggressive approach – traditional or alternative – is needed to save the dog. But the most effective approach to prevention and/or treatment combines the best of both veterinary worlds.

Preventing Heartworm

Elaborate Life
The life cycle of this insidious killer is complex, requiring two hosts – a dog and a mosquito. The heartworm’s life starts out in a dog, shifts to a mosquito for a short time, and then ends back in a dog. It’s a fascinating and deadly journey.

Living in a dog’s pulmonary arteries, adult female worms mate with males. Shortly thereafter, the females produce thousands of infinitesimally small “babies,” each less than 1/800 of an inch.

At this stage, the baby heartworms are called microfilariae (from the Greek word mikros, small, and Latin filum, thread). The microfilariae can circulate in the dog’s bloodstream for as long as two years. Scientists do not attribute any particular health problems to the presence of the microfilariae, even though the density of the microfilariae can increase over time if the parents are allowed to thrive. Veterinarians can see as many as 10-15 microfilariae in a single drop of blood from an infested dog; if you do the math, it works out to about 200,000 microfilariae circulating through an average 50-pound dog.

As ominous as this sounds, without a mosquito to carry them off to their next life stage, these microfilariae cannot develop further. If you could keep mosquitoes away from the dog for the rest of his life, the heartworm would progress no further.

Unfortunately, the world is full of mosquitoes. When one bites an infected dog, it can’t help but to ingest a couple of microfilariae with its blood meal. Inside the mosquito, the microfilariae continue their development, shortening and thickening into the first of several larval forms. It takes them two to three weeks to molt twice (going through what are called the L1 and L2 stages) and reach a form (L3) that will carry them back out of the mosquito into another dog. They can not develop further without another dog.

The larvae then move to the mosquito’s mouth, positioning themselves for their next move. When the mosquito bites another dog, the larvae are deposited onto the dog’s skin. After the mosquito withdraws, the larvae crawl into the tiny bite wound, and take up residence in the dog’s subcutaneous tissues.

The (L3) larvae spend the first week or two molting again, before taking a form (L4) that will enable them to migrate through the dog’s subcutaneous and muscle tissue. They take another 40 to 60 days journeying toward the dog’s upper abdomen and thoracic cavity. When they get about 1/10 of an inch long, they penetrate the dog’s veins and make their way to the right side of the heart, where they become full-fledged adults.

Up until this stage, a newly-infected dog shows no sign of disease. It’s only after the worms grow to adult sizes that the dog’s disease process starts. It can take a minimum of six months to more than a year from when he is first bitten by the infected mosquito for the dog to show visible signs of the infection.

Adults Only
Once they are adults, heartworms are restricted by their size from circulating everywhere through the dog’s circulatory system, but they still get around. Their preferred site is the right heart and pulmonary arteries, but they can also lodge in the veins of the liver and veins entering the heart. Very occasionally, they take up residence in other sites, such as the eye, the cerebral arteries, or the systemic arteries in the rear legs. (Worms in those sites must be treated surgically.) As they feed on nutrients they draw from the dog’s blood and tissue, they can grow to an astonishing 14 inches. Physically, their most damaging activity is the obstruction and interference with the performance of the heart valves and pulmonary arteries.

If the dog is host to enough worms, they can cause what is known as Caval Syndrome. By literally packing the right side of the heart, they cause an increase in the venous pressure in the liver, which damages the liver tissue. The liver dysfunction, in turn, changes the quality of the red blood cells the body produces, leading to a number of blood disorders. Eventually the system fails, manifesting itself in a sudden and dramatic collapse of the dog. Oddly, not all dogs with untreated heartworm develop Caval Syndrome, and the ones that do are usually younger, from three to five years.

How much damage the worms do depends on several factors, most importantly, the number of adult worms in the dog’s body and the dog’s activity level. Sedentary dogs with 25 or fewer worms may never show signs of the disease. Active dogs with the same number, or dogs that host 50-100 worms will exhibit moderate to severe heartworm disease.

Interestingly, the immune systems of some dogs are able to wage war, to a limited extent, on the heartworm cycle. An immune mediated response is thought to be responsible for some dogs ability to remove microfilariae from their circulatory system. Though the dog’s system has not displayed the ability to damage or dislodge adult worms, an otherwise very healthy dog may be able to outlive the worms, which can survive in the heart for five to seven years.

Pet Detecting
The tests that can detect canine heartworm have increased in sophistication. Nevertheless, it takes two tests to make an accurate diagnosis.

The earliest test used for this purpose, called a Knott’s test or a Filter test, consists of a simple examination of the dog’s blood under a microscope, and is still used today to detect the presence of the microfilariae. If these are seen, it indicates the dog currently hosts an adult population of the worms.

But a dog with no visible (through a microscope) microfilariae can still have heartworms. This condition is called “occult dirofilariasis,” and it could mean:

• He is hosting a population of adults that are all male or all female, and thus, not producing any babies.

• He is hosting a population of adults that have been rendered sterile through the use of Ivermectin or other preventative drugs, and thus are not producing any babies.

• He is hosting a reproducing adult population, but his immune system is successfully waging a war on the circulating microfilariae, efficiently removing them from his blood.

• The heartworms he is hosting are not yet adults. The second blood test used to diagnose heartworm infestation zeroes in on the adult population. The earliest test used for this purpose worked by detecting the antigens (foreign proteins) shed by adult heartworms. The problem was, it could only indicate whether adults had ever been in the dog’s system. It would detect antigens even if the worms were dead and gone.

The adult detection test used today has a similar fault. It detects only the antigens produced by live, adult females, so it can miss all-male adult infestations, or juvenile females. If the dog was bitten by an infected mosquito only in the last six months, the test will not detect the juveniles.

Traditional Treatments
The traditional path to full treatment is long and arduous – but far preferable to the longer and more arduous death by heartworm. Because the heartworm lives in the dog in three distinctly different forms – microfilariae, larvae, and adult worm – three different drugs, administered in separate stages, have to be employed to rid the dog of the invader.

The first step is to get rid of the adults, which cause the most damage. Just a couple of years ago, there was only one option for this treatment, an intravenous injection of an arsenic-based drug called Caparsolate. The treatment is essentially chemotherapy, the administration of a deadly drug that is supposed to be deadlier to the parasite than it is to the patient. The drug required two injections of the drug for two days, and each injection was a hold-your-breath endeavor. Caparsolate had to be injected directly into the dog’s veins, and if even a minute amount came in contact with muscle or other tissue, it caused horrible wounds accompanied by massive tissue sloughing.

In 1995, a company called Rhone-Merieaux introduced Immiticide, a much better drug, and it quickly replaced Caparsolate as the treatment of choice. Another deadly and powerful drug, it, too, presents veterinarians with some challenges, but compared to the alternative, most veterinarians feel it is light years better. The current maker of Immiticide is Merial Limited, a company that was born of a merger between Rhone-Merieaux and Merck, and is based in Iselin, New Jersey.

The two injections that are required for a complete Immiticide treatment are usually administered 24 hours apart, in a very specific site rarely used for injections: deep in the back muscles located above the L3 and L5 lumbar vertebrae. Immiticide does not cause tissue sloughing, but many dogs exhibit irritation at the injection site, including pain, swelling, and reluctance to move.

The dog’s post-treatment symptoms are similar with both the old and the new treatment. The drugs kill the worms, leaving the dog’s body to carry the dead and decaying worms out of its circulatory system. The dead worms are carried in the bloodstream to the lungs, where they are gradually reabsorbed. Depending on the dog’s health and the total number of worms in his system, this can be a mild or a violent process. The dogs usually cough, gag, and vomit, experience fever and lung congestion, and are understandably depressed and lethargic.

Both treatments require the dog to be kept as quiet as possible (preferably caged) for the first few days. All increases in heart rate and respiration force a greater amount of dead worm fragments into circulation. If too many particles flood into the lungs at once, they can block the blood vessels to the lungs and cause death. Following a treatment with Caparsolate, veterinarians recommend the dog be kept physically restricted for one to two months. This restriction is shorter following Immiticide treatment.

Ten to 20 percent of dogs with a high worm burden will die as a result of the Immiticide treatment. (The number seems grim until you consider that even without treatment, dogs with that level of infestation suffer a much slower, progressively debilitating death.) If a heart X-ray, antigen test, or the dog’s symptoms suggest that the infestation is very severe, the dogs can undergo a modified treatment protocol, consisting of a single injection, which kills the weaker worms, followed by two more injections a month later. The cost for the entire treatment depends largely on how the dog reacts to the drugs and to the death of the worms. For most lightly infested dogs, the experience totals a week or two of discomfort with no further veterinary treatment required. Under these circumstances, the bill from the veterinary hospital would average $400-600. A dog that experienced difficulties, however, may required extended veterinary care, including administrations of fluids, steroids to reduce any fever or inflammation and help quell the coughing, and supportive therapies for the liver. In this case, the bill can easily reach upwards of $1,500.

Both the Immiticide and the Caparsolate treatments are contraindicated (not recommended) for the most severely infested dogs with Caval syndrome. After the adults are killed, the next step in traditional treatment is to kill any microfilariae that are still in circulation. Since the microfilariae cannot mature without an intermediate host (time spent in a mosquito), you’d think you could skip this step. But you have to administer yet another drug to kill any larvae that may have been deposited on the dog in the last 60 days, and the drugs used for that purpose also kill the microfilariae at a dangerous rate. (A too-sudden die-off of the microfilariae can cause shock and subsequent death of the dog.) The drug used to kill the microfilariae, dithiazanine iodide, is given orally until the microfilariae are absent from the blood, usually one to two weeks.

Final Step – Should Have Been the First
It’s only at this point that you can administer the final treatment – the one the dog should have received before he ever came in contact with mosquitoes. The drugs used halt the development of any larvae present in the dog’s tissues. They comprise the “preventative” action that should be used for the rest of the dog’s life. Each drug costs about $30-40 for a six-month supply. Currently there are three types of drugs available for preventing heartworm development in dogs. The first drug used to prevent larval development was diethylcarbamazine (DEC), marketed as Filaribits, Dec-acide, Caricide, and Hetrazan. DEC is still used, but it must be given to dogs daily throughout the mosquito season, since it kills only the L3 larvae which have not yet taken L4 form, a process the larvae undergo within the first 36 hours on the dog.

Today, DEC is used less frequently than the newer, once-a-month products Interceptor, HeartGard-30, and Sentinel. Interceptor was the first of the monthly preventatives, introduced to the market in 1993 by Novartis Animal Health. The active ingredient in this drug is milbemycin oxime, which kills the L3 and L4 stage heartworms as well as other intestinal parasites such as hookworm, whipworm, and roundworm.

Novartis also makes Program, an oral insect development inhibitor (IDI) made available in 1994 for the purpose of killing fleas. In 1997, the company brought out a combination of lufenuron and milbemycin oxime that they call Sentinel.

Perhaps the best known monthly preventative, however, is HeartGard-30. An Ivermectin-based drug, HeartGard received an early reputation for being poorly tolerated by Collies and other particularly chemical-sensitive dogs. Recent dosages seem to have corrected the problems, which usually manifested as vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and/or a lack of appetite.

HeartGard, Sentinel, and Interceptor are approved only for use as anti-larval drugs, but each has been used on dogs hosting a population of adult heartworms with mixed results. The danger is that these drugs can kill the population of microfilariae so rapidly that embolism (an obstruction of the arteries) occurs. Also, while neither drug has demonstrated an ability to kill the adults worms, it may have a sterilizing effect on them, keeping them from producing any more microfilariae. With only a light infestation, protected from further infestation by the anti-larval drugs, a dog could conceivably outlive the heartworms.

Alternative Approaches
So far, we have discussed only the traditional veterinary approach to heartworm prevention and treatment. Due to the seriousness of the disease, most holistic practitioners recommend that their clients use the traditional drugs. Some use herbal or homeopathic remedies to support and help the dog’s body deal with the chemical treatments. Some, however, use only alternative methods to protect their own dogs’ health, and most are happy to help and support a client who wants to do the same. But the completely drug-free approach requires a huge commitment from dog owners, and unless owners devote themselves completely to the task of building and maintaining their dogs’ immune systems, they may find their dogs infected after all.

WDJ interviewed three holistic veterinarians with a wide range of experiences with non-traditional and traditional heartworm prevention and treatment. All three agree that keeping the dog healthy in order to boost his own immune system response to heartworm infections is critical (for more information about this process, see Dr. Christina Chambreau’s article, “Five Steps to Fitness,” in the April 1998 issue of WDJ). But each has taken a very different approach to the heartworm problem.

California veterinarian Nancy Scanlan says she is lucky; none of her clients have ever had a heartworm positive dog. There is heartworm in California, however, and she advises most of her clients to use the traditional drugs for preventing infection. However, she suggests also using herbal, homeopathic, and nutritional supplements to help the body detoxify after preventative use.

Representing the middle ground, Indiana veterinarian Carolyn Blakey supports those of her clients who use traditional drugs as well as those who take a completely alternative approach to prevention and treatment. She has seen success with both approaches, she says, attributing that achievement to the homeopathic remedies and nutritional supplements she administers to improve the dogs’ circulatory function.

And on the far left, Texas veterinarian William Falconer says he provides a fully homeopathic alternative to the traditional drugs for heartworm. This means a totally unique constitutional remedy tailored to each individual dog, an approach he claims has enjoyed 100 percent success.

We’ll describe each practitioner’s approach in the next issue.

-By Nancy Kerns

We would like to thank Nancy Scanlan, DVM, of Sherman Oaks, CA, William Falconer, DVM, of Austin TX, and Carolyn Blakey, DVM, of Richmond, IN for their help with this article.

The Canine Cancer Crisis

6

They are among the words you least want to hear: Your dog has cancer. But the odds are you will hear them someday, especially if you have more than one dog in your lifetime. One in four dogs get cancer; half of the dogs over 10 years of age die from or with it.

Much of what is known about canine cancer closely parallels what is known about cancer in humans. Dogs are at risk of the same types of cancer afflicting humans, and treating canine cancer successfully is dependent upon the same variables found in human cancer treatment: the type of cancer, the wisdom of the attending doctor in choosing the most effective course of treatment, the availability of advanced medical techniques, and the willingness and ability to pay for them.

There are other similarities. Statistically speaking, cancer is a disease of middle and old age. Certain cancers are largely preventable with prudent lifestyle choices. Early detection is almost always a critical factor. Cancer is hereditary, sometimes running in canine families. Variables like nutrition and toxic exposure seem to play a prominent role.

And always there is a highly individual response to disease. For some dogs, the immune system rallies, and the treatments seem magically precise. For many, if not most, treatment becomes a holding pattern, an evolving equation of modulated therapy versus quality of life. For still others, hope fades as quickly as the once-playful antics of a dog’s life.

Detecting Cancer Early is Key to Survival

Just as with humans, early detection offers by far the most realistic hope for your dog’s survival, particularly for those cancers which aggressively metastasize. Make it a regular practice to examine your dog’s body for unexplained swelling or lumps. Tumors developing in the upper layers of skin are the most common types of cancer in dogs.

Many early warning signs of cancer, however, are more subtle. While many of these signs – behavioral changes, loss of appetite, increased water consumption, persistent wheezing or coughing – are universal and require only basic observational skills on the part of the owner, other signs require a more sophisticated knowledge of your own pet.

Cancers are often traced to the site of earlier injuries, traumas, wounds, or fractures, so knowledge and examination of these injury sites can be helpful.

Dogs with long snouts and dogs who live on commercial farms, exposed throughout their lives to herbicides and pesticides, are more prone to nasal cancer.

However, dogs in general have a higher incidence of nasal cancer than humans. This, as they say, is a lifestyle issue; a dog keeps his nose to the ground, sniffing up whatever carcinogens happen to be present.

Oral melanoma, the fourth most common type of canine cancer, is much more common in dogs with dark pigmentation in their mouths. If you own such a dog, you need to be especially alert to unexplained oral swellings or signs of dental disease.

Mast cell tumors are common, but far more common in short-nosed breeds like boxers and Boston Terriers. Large and giant breeds are at much higher risk of developing bone cancer, particularly in the long bones of the legs. Cocker spaniels are prone to an otherwise rare type of ear cancer. Skin cancer is prevalent where ultraviolet light is strong, and particularly for short-haired, fair-skinned breeds like Boxers.

Before buying a certain type of dog, you should ask several breeders about the prevalence of cancer in that breed, and in that particular canine family. Heredity is a major determining factor in cancer; it is thought that boxers, for example, are more prone to cancer than any other bred. These statistics should not necessarily make you shy away from that breed, but inform your level of vigilance.

You should also be aware that, as in humans, there are cancer-causing genes, called oncogenes, which are more prevalent in one family than another. As dogs age, they are increasingly prone to both growths on the skin, and to fatty deposits just under it. Most often these growths are benign, but even a veterinarian can’t reliably tell just by looking. It is crucial to aspirate (withdraw cells via a thin needle) and, if necessary, biopsy (analyze the tissue sample under a microscope) these growths upon detection.

Even benign growths should be monitored closely; they have the potential to become cancerous. In addition, a dog might have a number of seemingly identical growths, of which only one is malignant.

As your dog ages, the likelihood increases that your dog will get cancer in any of one hundred different forms. Simple awareness, clearly, can go a long ways toward providing a happy outcome.

Diagnosing Cancer in Dogs

Approximately one in four dogs will get cancer; nearly half of all dogs reaching 10 years of age will die of it. Although we don’t know, in any given dog, precisely what factors caused a particular type of cancer, we do know that cancers seem to derive, over time, from an immune system stressed by toxins, injuries, poor nutrition – and probably stress itself.

If cancer is suspected, your veterinarian will order a series of tests leading to a diagnosis. These tests might include, depending on the cancer in question, aspiration, biopsy, blood tests, urine tests, x-rays, and ultrasound.

In some cases, your veterinarian might recommend exploratory surgery, or even one of the advanced, accurate, and expensive scanning technologies available to human patients.

When a cancer is present, however your veterinarian has arrived at the diagnosis, he or she should present you with a realistic prognosis. This process, called staging, identifies both the extent of the cancer’s spread (metastasis), and determines the treatment options available.

Common Canine Cancers:

Lymphoma

Lymphoma, also known as Lymphosarcoma, is a cancer of the blood cells and tissues associated with the lymphatic system. Generally afflicting middle-aged and older dogs, it is a cancer whose most common type (other forms originate in the gastrointestinal tract, chest, skin, or bone marrow) involves multiple external lymph nodes.

Frequently examine your dog’s body for abnormalities; it is of particular importance here, as lymphoma is the third most common cancer diagnosed in dogs. It is usually a simple matter to locate swollen lymph nodes at the base of the jaws, in the rear legs behind the knee, armpits, groin, and in front of the shoulder blades.

While true cures, for all practical purposes, remain out of reach, lymphoma responds exceptionally well to chemotherapy; what constitutes an acceptable quality of life, however, will sooner or later be the overriding issue for you as a dog owner.

Osteosarcoma

This aggressively malignant bone cancer most often strikes large or giant breeds, typically in the long bones of the legs. It tends to spread to the lungs very early in the course of the disease, and accounts for some 80 percent of the primary bone cancers found in dogs. The median age at diagnosis is seven years. In addition to targeting large dogs (only five percent of cases occur in dogs less than 25 pounds), osteosarcoma has also been linked to dogs with previously broken bones, and with hairline fractures occurring when bone growth was incomplete.

Initially, osteosarcoma might be labeled a mere sprain, but persistent symptoms later lead to a correct diagnosis, which is invariably grave. While new techniques are emerging, amputation is still the therapy of choice, since it removes both the primary cancer site and the primary source of pain. With amputation alone, however, only 10 percent of patients survive a year. When chemotherapy is applied, the one-year survival increases to 50 percent.

Skin Tumors

Dogs are prone to a great many classifiable lumps, cysts, growths, deposits, and tumors, the majority of which prove benign; some 20 percent are malignant or, rarely, become malignant over time. Because these growths are a normal part of the aging process, it is important to keep an eye on them, and bring them to your veterinarian’s attention.

The three most common types are called histiocytomas, or button tumors; lipomas, or fatty tumors; and mast cell tumors, which are by far the most serious.

Fatty tumors, to which breeds like the Labrador Retriever are prone, are unsightly but not dangerous in most cases. Most dogs, if they get any at all, will have more than one. Most veterinarians aren’t eager to remove them unless they inhibit the dog’s quality of life – they can reach the size of baseballs – by growing in an armpit or the crook of a knee.

Histiocytomas are referred to by what they resemble on the skin – raised, red, and often angry-looking “buttons” of rough tissue. Appearing in a spot where a dog is forced to leave them alone, they sometimes disappear without treatment. However, dog owners should never wait for the situation to resolve itself. Again, tumors cannot be safely identified by sight alone, even by experienced veterinarians.

It is the nature of mast cell tumors that they are very difficult to remove surgically, and surgery is the standard protocol. For this reason, veterinarians often recommend radiation and/or chemotherapy in conjunction with surgery, depending on the tumor’s appearance when the dog is brought in. In its early stage, this cancer is of uniform appearance (in medical terminology, “well-differentiated”), and can often be successfully excised. Otherwise, it is known for metastasizing to almost any part of the body.

Mammary Cancer

The risks of this largely preventable cancer are directly correlated with whether, and when, a female dog has been spayed. (While extremely rare, this cancer also occurs in males). For those dogs not intended to be bred, owners can virtually eliminate the risks of mammary cancer by spaying prior to the female dog’s first heat.

Mammary cancer, like most canine cancers, is closely associated with age. The average age of onset is ten years, and probably half of all cases are benign. And even for malignancies – almost alone among the serious dog cancers – this one has a significant rate of cure, but only when caught early, and the tumor is still localized. When the cancer has spread, the treatment goal hinges on quality of life issues, rather than possible cures.

Oral Melanoma

There may very well be a lifestyle link with this common and often grave cancer.

According to the most prevalent theory, carcinogens lodge on a dog’s coat, and are absorbed into oral tissues as a dog grooms. Even long-banned chemicals like DDT remain in the environment. Airborne carcinogens, in particular, settle to the ground; many of us fertilize our lawns, or spray pesticides in our gardens.

Because dogs spend their lives at toxicity’s ground zero, the potential for cell-altering damage is high. Fortunately, a major positive benefit of the growing emphasis on canine dental care is that this type of cancer can be diagnosed early.

Unless complete surgical removal is possible (and only follow-up x-rays will reveal if the cancer has metastasized), the options, once again, will be limited to a patient’s quality of life.

Preventing Cancer in Dogs

Of course, there is no magical diet, supplement, or vaccine that prevents cancer. But, as a dog owner, you can make some relatively simple choices to improve the odds.

As already mentioned, early spaying enormously reduces the risk of mammary cancer in females. Dogs spayed prior to initial estrus carry only half the risk of those spayed after the first but prior to the second heat cycle. Dogs spayed as young adults, or never spayed at all, have a risk factor increased by several hundred percent.

In male dogs, testicular cancer is common; neutering, obviously, eliminates that risk, and reduces the risk of both cancerous and non-cancerous prostate conditions, as well as anal cancer. (For show dogs and other unneutered males, fortunately, canine testicular cancer rarely spreads, and therefore has a relatively high rate of cure.)

Pale-skinned dogs have a higher risk of skin cancer. A striking example of this risk is the Dalmatian, a breed currently high in popularity. Cancer is known to surround – but not enter – a Dalmatian’s black spots. If you own a fair-skinned, short-haired breed, it would be best to limit your dog’s sun exposure, especially at the times of day when the sun’s rays are the most direct.

Moving beyond these few proven risk factors, however, takes us into the realm of nutrition and environment, where the human experience may or may not apply to our dogs as well. However, common sense – and growing clinical evidence – tells us that it does.

Environment

It isn’t any secret that the fewer environmental toxins our dogs are exposed to, the better. Long-term toxic exposure can destroy a dog’s liver, and weaken the immune system, which is the first and last line of defense against cancer.

Limiting your dog’s exposure to toxins is harder than you might think, however. After all, our dogs spend their lives on the earth’s most toxic layer, the ground, and in contact with the toxin-covered surfaces in our homes: carpets which have been cleaned with potentially harmful chemicals, floors which have been sprayed with ant and roach killer, garage floors which have absorbed all sorts of toxins.

Then there are all the chemicals we pour onto our dogs, most notably, flea-killing chemicals of every description: powders, sprays, shampoos, dips, and ointments.

The Prevention/Nutrition Link

Free radicals are active chemical substances which react with and alter our body’s cells. Those most capable of damage are associated with food additives, pesticides, air pollution, and radiation. It is thought that these damaged cells can “lose” their genetic programming, which limits and controls cell replication. Cancer, by definition, is uncontrolled cell growth. As is by now well-known, there is strong evidence that antioxidants (such as vitamins A, C, E and many other nutrients) help to neutralize free radicals absorbed from our environment. In theory, neutralizing free radicals could be a potent cancer preventative.

All of us “get cancer”; we probably have cancerous cells present in our bodies at all times. A properly functioning immune system will detect these cells and eliminate these cells before “cancer” takes hold. Cancer kills us when our immune system fails.

For dogs, and dog owners, the best possible advice suggests maintaining our immune systems at optimum levels through nutrition, weight control, and regular exercise.

Dr. R. H. Anderson, an holistic veterinarian in Dallas, Oregon, suggests a health-building and disease-preventing protocol for all his clients, and as a result, says very few of the clients who have followed the protocol end up developing cancer. “I have my clients work up to feeding their dogs at least a 50 percent natural diet. I clean up the dogs’ livers, and I make sure their immune systems are functioning normally. Every dog is different, but these three things seem to work pretty well.”

Cancer Treatments for Dogs: Traditional, Holistic, and Experimental

In the next issue of WDJ, we’ll examine the world of canine cancer treatments – conventional and unorthodox – as well as describe the most promising developments in cancer research.

Knowledge of the latest treatments is helpful, but it doesn’t alter cancer’s basic conundrum: What is the best outcome for my dog, and how do we get there?

Many holistic veterinarians believe that some conventional cancer treatments are pointless, inhumane, and often counterproductive. Many mainstream veterinarians roll their eyes at the very suggestion that alternative therapies are effective – or even more effective – than modern drug and radiation therapies.

While no one can give any definitive answers – every dog is different – in our next issue, we will tell you about the best treatment options available today, and what those options will look like in the future.

Roger Govier, a freelance writer and frequent contributor to WDJ, lives in San Francisco, California.

Acupressure Techniques for Treating Dog Pain

A woman wakes up one morning and goes into the kitchen to make some coffee and let out her dog. When he sees her, he rises from his bed and begins to yawn and stretch. He interrupts himself, though, with a yelp of alarm and a fit of head shaking. When the woman calls his name, he stops, and walks to her holding his head at an angle. “Oh, honey, is it your ears again?” the woman asks. She gently lifts one of the dog’s ear flaps, and confirms her suspicion. The interior of the dog’s ears are red, inflamed, and sour-smelling.

For many people, this episode would be followed with a trip to the veterinarian and a treatment of an antibiotic, to kill the bacteria that has infected the dog’s ears. Some people become accustomed to taking the trip to the veterinary clinic several times a year, because their dog’s condition is something that spontaneously recurs again and again.

In this case, however, the woman takes a couple of deep breaths and begins to touch the dog’s head and ears. She applies pressure to specific areas on the back of the dog’s neck, the top of his front leg, and a spot on the outside of his ear. Within several minutes, the dog takes several deep breaths and lowers his head. When the woman rises, and opens the door to let her dog outside, he trots outdoors with his head held normally, temporarily relieved of the pain of his inflamed ear.

Helping The Body Heal Itself
The dog hasn’t been cured by this application of acupressure, the use of pressure on specific locations on a human’s or animal’s body. But the touch has prompted the dog’s body to release its own store of pain-killing chemicals into the bloodstream, giving him temporary relief from the ear infection. Additional help from an experienced acupuncturist can affect the workings of the dog’s entire body, including its metabolism, circulatory system, internal organs, and the very life force of the dog. Bringing his body into a balanced state, say practitioners of this ancient medicine, will enable him to fight the infection on his own.

More and more people, veterinarians included, are beginning to discover the benefits of these healing practices which have been used and trusted for over 4000 years. Acupressure, probably the oldest form of Chinese medicine, is the application of pressure, usually by the fingers, thumbs, and hands, to specific points on the body to stimulate the body’s own healing ability. Acupuncture, fully developed by 400 BC, uses needles that penetrate the skin to prompt the same acupoints on a deeper level. Even though the explanations of how they work may require the mind to stretch, the truth is, these methods work well, work consistently, and many times, even work when conventional treatments have failed to cure.

One of the best things about acupressure is that all dog owners can use it to increase their dogs’ health and well-being. It is also invaluable in times of crisis, and can increase your awareness of your dog’s body.

According to historical accounts, acupressure and acupuncture was first used on horses and other livestock, probably because of the indispensable nature of animals at that time. The healing methods that evolved in China are based on an entirely different view of the body and its workings than those we are familiar with in the western world. Contemporary Western medicine sees the body as an amalgamation of individual parts that can be looked at and also healed as separate and distinct pieces. We have specialists for every part of the body who have amassed enormous knowledge about how each part works both in health and disease, and how each responds to treatment.

This medical model has brought about spectacular advances – such as antibiotics, vaccines, and laser surgery. But because modern medicine sees the body much like a machine made up of specialized parts, doctors usually go to the site of the symptom and either “fix” it with drugs (like antibiotics), replace the damaged part (as with a hip replacement), or just cut it out (like an appendix or tonsils).

Although many of these procedures produce amazing results, cures for conditions that affect the body in less specific ways (like Pre-Menstrual Syndrome and migraines, for instance) remain elusive. Many times, if thae cause of dysfunction doesn’t originate from a specific place in the body, doctors are unable to cure the symptoms. The same often holds true for modern veterinary medicine. Think of the mild but persistent lamenesses that have plagued dogs you have known. Their problems often go undiagnosed regardless of how many tests the veterinarian runs. If a defective or diseased body part cannot be pinpointed, modern veterinary science is unable to recommend any “cures” except rest and painkilling or anti-inflammatory medications.

The Chinese view of the body is more holistic. It sees the body – canine or human – as an intricate system where all the elements are intimately intertwined. Chinese medical practitioners address symptoms as signposts leading the healer to an imbalance of the system at large. They seek to find and heal the root cause of the symptom, not the symptom itself.

Instead of seeing the body like a machine, practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) view the body more like a lush garden where the whole is seen as a complex and interdependent ecosystem. If you douse aphid-infested plants in the garden with poisonous chemical insecticides, the whole garden will need to heal from the effects to the soil. Similarly, if you address an allergy problem with steroids as a long-term solution, you may cause a loss of bone calcium in your dog, resulting in bone weakness and even fracture, causing a whole new problem for the body to deal with.

Chi is the Key
TCM looks at the body as a whole and uses methods that treat the system as an entire network of linked components, not individual parts. Central to this view of health and healing is the concept of energy, called “chi” (chee). By energy, we mean the life force that flows through all of us, glowing bright when we are healthiest and happiest and dimming when we are sick. Look in the sparkling eye of a fit, healthy dog and compare it to the eye of a dog in pain. Chi twinkles in the first and fades in the second.

Practitioners of TCM hold that the entire universe is suffused with chi, and that it is chi that animates the dense physical matter of all living things. Although chi infuses every cell of our bodies, it is concentrated in set pathways, called “meridians,” which pass like rivers throughout our bodies. Each meridian has a route through the body. It also has a certain quality, purpose, and energetic task to perform in the body. The tasks relate to functions in the physical, emotional, and spiritual body. For instance, the heart meridian governs the workings of not only the physical heart, but also the emotions of love and joy and the quality of spirit.

Energetic Irrigation
In the perfectly balanced body, all of the energy pathways (meridians) conduct the flow of energy in an unimpeded manner, like a newly built and spotlessly clean irrigation system feeding water and nutrients to the garden. However, most of us have parts of our energy system that have become blocked or congested from emotional (internal) or environmental (external) stresses. When a dog loses a close buddy, or begins a new and challenging training schedule, for instance, he needs special care like rest, proper nutrition, and gentle attention, to allow his body, mind, and soul to adjust. Without this care, the body’s energy can stagnate, clog, or diminish.

Acupuncture and acupressure seeks to rebalance the body by realigning the energetic “irrigation system” so that the chi may flow smoothly. In a sick dog, like the one described at the beginning of this article, the energy flow is definitely not moving in a normal, health-producing manner. Touching specific acupressure points stimulates the release of the dog’s own internal chemicals which naturally rebalances the body and helps it return to proper function.

Traditional Chinese doctors were once paid only for maintenance visits because their primary role was to help the client remain healthy. Should the patient become sick, the doctor was obligated to provide free care. TCM was best utilized in a preventative manner, instead of a curative one, and can be used in a similar manner to keep your dog well.

I suggest using both the Eastern and Western systems for what they each do best. Western medicine is remarkable for severe problems like life-threatening accidents and disease. Regular acupressure and other tools of TCM can build health, improve performance, and prevent illness.

-By Susan Tenney

Author Susan Tenney, CMT, lives in Sonoma County, CA. She is a regular contributor to The Whole Horse Journal.