Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 301

Taking Steps to Making Vet Visits Less Stressful for Your Pup

By
Nancy Kerns
-
10

Let’s face it: Most dogs aren’t crazy about going to the vet. And why should they be? After all, vet visits are stressful at best. They often mean a new environment, slippery floors, and even more slippery exam tables. Vet offices are full of funny smells, scary sounds, strange people, and unknown animals. Plus, the poking and prodding they are subjected to can be uncomfortable and sometimes even painful. It may be overwhelming for even the most easygoing dog.

Reasoning with your dog may help some (“Oh, honey, it’s for your own good!”). But what will help even more is getting your dog accustomed to the types of experiences that he is likely to encounter on visits to the veterinarian. The following seven tips can help you help your dog learn to tolerate the occasional “well-dog” health examanination. They will also help your dog be better prepared to accept necessary medical treatment in case of a serious illness or injury.

1. Take your dog by the vet’s office, just to say hello.

“One of the best things you can do,” says E.V. Sharp, DVM, of Creekside Veterinary Hospital in Soquel, California, “is just to stop by every once in a while. Bring your dog in, weigh him, and walk out again.” New places are sometimes anxiety producing – just because they are new. Stopping by occasionally reduces your dog’s anxiety by simply transforming the vet’s office from an unknown to a known environment.

Better yet, take along some great treats, preferably something that is incredibly special to your dog like steak or hot dogs. Ask the receptionist, the vet tech, and even your veterinarian to give your dog a few treats, too. If you have a puppy, start your “social” vet visits as early as possible. But don’t worry if you have an older dog or a dog that is already anxious about vet visits. Fun and happy social visits can dramatically reduce an adult dog’s stress level too.

Be sure to call ahead and tell your vet what you want to do. Ask if there is a good time to stop by for a few minutes. You’ll want to make sure that your social visit is convenient for the vet and the office staff. You’ll also want to make sure they are not dealing with an emergency or an infectious disease at the time of your visit.

2. Take the time to touch your dog everywhere, every day!
Getting your dog accustomed to being touched all over is essential for your dog’s comfort during an examination. In a routine exam, a veterinarian may look in your dog’s eyes, ears, and mouth, listen to his heart and lungs, touch and probe his belly, manipulate his joints, and take his temperature. Dogs that are handled, petted, and touched all over daily will be less likely to perceive this as invasive, and more likely to regard it as affectionate (if somewhat personal!) touching.

In addition, when you regularly spend time touching your dog, you will be more likely to notice changes such as lumps, swelling, or tenderness that may indicate health problems.

One great way to help your dog learn to tolerate being handled is to make it part of play and relaxation. When you play rowdy games such as fetch, wrestle, or tug-o-war with your dog, you can encourage the game and help your dog tolerate touch through play pats, ruffling his fur, and gentle roughhousing. When you spend quiet time with your dog, stroke and pet him all over. Play with your dog’s ears, muzzle, belly, and around his tail. Try holding your dog’s paw while you rub his tummy. Massage his shoulders and hips. Stroke your dog’s ears and gently place your finger inside the ears. Touch around his legs and in between his toes.

“It’s also a good idea to pinch them every once in a while,” said Dr. Sharp. Not hard of course, but enough that a little needle pinch for vaccinations or drawing blood won’t be a totally unusual experience.

Another very important part of this routine is to take note of your dog’s sensitive spots. Most dogs have one or more spots where they prefer not to be touched. Some dogs don’t like to have their paws touched. Others may not like their hips, ears, or tails touched.

You can help even the most reluctant dog accept the handling of sensitive areas with a little patience and some great treats. Have your dog near you in a comfortable position. Then feed your dog his favorite treats while briefly touching the sensitive spot. For example, if your dog is sensitive about having his paws handled, gently and quickly stroke your dog’s paw and then give him a slice of hot dog or another great treat. Once your dog is happy about the brief touch (because he knows the hot dog is coming!), you can leave your hand on his paw just a little bit longer before giving him the treat. Gradually work up to holding the paw, then giving gentle squeezes, and eventually touching between his toes. (For more details on this technique, see “Classical Conditioning,” WDJ June 2001.)

Don’t try to rush it or push your dog to do anything that is uncomfortable. The goal is to help your dog learn to accept or even enjoy being touched everywhere. If your dog exhibits any aggression around being touched, please consult with a behaviorist to help you work through the problem.

When your dog is happy about being touched all over, ask friends, a trainer, or other family members to touch your dog, too. The more dogs are accustomed to being handled by different people, the easier it will be for them to be handled during regular vet visits or in the case of an illness.

Remember being a kid and wanting to dress your animals up? That can actually help, too! “If your dog enjoys it, put things on them,” Dr. Sharp said, laughing at the idea. Bandanas, doggie sweaters, booties, dog packs, and other items can help your dog accept things like bandages or Elizabethan collars if the need ever arises.

3. Play with your dog’s mouth.
“Probably the hardest thing we deal with regularly are dogs who are not used to having their mouths handled,” says Dr. Sharp. She recommends brushing your dog’s teeth regularly to help them get used to having their mouths handled. “It really pays off! It’s good for the dog and the vet. It can extend times between teeth cleanings, too.” With some dogs, Dr. Sharp notes, it can even mean the difference between being able to perform teeth cleanings with the dog awake and having to give the dog anesthesia.

In Dr. Sharp’s opinion, it’s not as important to brush the teeth really well as it is just to do it! Even brushing the outsides of the teeth can make a big difference. Always use canine toothpaste; people toothpaste isn’t safe for dogs. Plus, the great flavors available in doggy toothpaste, such as chicken, beef, or malt, can make brushing all the more enjoyable for your dog.

Another good exercise is opening your dog’s mouth, looking in, and then immediately popping a treat in his mouth. Your dog will learn that your opening his mouth means treats are coming.

Dogs can also learn to enjoy having their mouths’ handled if you dab a little peanut butter, yogurt, or cottage cheese on your finger and then rub your finger over your dog’s gums or along the roof of his mouth. Your dog will get used to having fingers in his mouth, plus he’ll get a special taste treat.

4. Get your dog used to being leaned over, held onto, and picked up.
Even dogs that are handled regularly can have a tough time when someone leans over them, holds them down, or picks them up – understandably so! But during routine vet visits and especially during an emergency, your dog may need to be lifted onto a table, the veterinarian will need to lean over your dog, and your dog may need to be held for vaccines or exams as well as for emergency procedures.

Bending over your dog from various positions in play and other activities can help him learn to accept this behavior from humans. In addition, you can help your dog tolerate being held through everyday affectionate behaviors. For example, if your dog enjoys a good belly rub, try reaching over your dog’s shoulder to rub his belly. In our home, for example, we routinely kiss the tops of our dogs’ heads, reach around their shoulders to rub their tummies, and give them great big gentle bear hugs. All of these activities are fun, and help our dogs accept and even enjoy being leaned over and held onto (plus we get lots of dog kisses in return!).

Smaller dogs are more often used to being carried, but for some larger dogs, the only time they are physically picked up is at the vet’s office. That in and of itself can be a traumatic experience. You can set up specific training times to familiarize your dog with being lifted, or you can incorporate this into regular activities. When you groom your dog, for example, consider lifting him on to a low table. If you are not sure how to lift your dog properly (for your safety and his), ask your veterinarian, groomer, or trainer to show you how to easily and safely pick up your dog.

5. Teach your dog to sit, stand, lie down, and turn around.
Basic training can really help lower your dog’s stress at the veterinary clinic. Your dog will be a whole lot more relaxed if you can ask him to move his own body, rather than having to push, pull, or cajole your dog into position.

The basic behaviors that are essential for ease during vet exams include:

• Sit and down. Because many dogs want to flop over or slink away instead of holding still, knowing sit and down can make it easier on both your dog and the vet during an exam.

• Relax. Also known as “roll on your side,” this trick is great for positioning dogs when the vet needs to scrutinize just one side of your dog.

• Stand. This is another basic position that is good for specific exams. Plus, it’s easier to pick your dog up from a stand if you need to lift him onto the table.

• Turn. Veterinarians often want to turn your dog so that he is facing a different direction on the table. Instead of having to physically move your dog, a simple turn behavior (carefully if they are up on a table) can eliminate the need for having to physically manipulate them into position.

A few other behaviors that may also be helpful include:

• “Touch” or “Target.” If your dog is trained to touch your hand with his nose on cue (see “Right on Target,” WDJ March 2001), then you can use a hand touch to help move or position your dog, or to move his head up or down. It may also be useful in helping dogs if they need to be given nose drops!

• Shake. Also called “give me a paw,” this exercise can help turn foot examinations into a fun activity for your dog!

• Watch me. Any type of eye contact exercise is a good tool to turn his head in a particular direction, but also this is a great exercise to keep your dog occupied while being examined.

6. Familiarize your dog with a muzzle and crate, just in case!
Getting your dog used to wearing a soft muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is bad, or that he will necessarily bite. For some dogs, using a muzzle is a good way to ensure safety if the vet needs to examine a sensitive place. And, even sweet, gentle, and well-socialized dogs can bite when they are threatened, scared, or hurt; it’s an instinctive and normal reaction. Plus, a dog that is seriously ill or has suffered a painful injury may lash out without even realizing what he is doing.

Purchasing a soft muzzle (the fabric kind with an opening on the end that allows your dog to take treats while wearing) and helping your dog learn to wear it comfortably can become a fun game – and it will ensure that your dog is prepared, just in case.

To help your dog learn to wear a muzzle, simply hold a treat on the “nose” part of the muzzle. Let your dog put his nose through and take the treat. Have your dog do this several times every day for a week or more. When your dog becomes excited when he sees the muzzle (because he knows it means treats), you can slip it on for a few seconds, feed your dog a treat or two, and then take it right back off. After a week or more at this stage, you can start leaving it on for a few seconds at a time and gradually increase the time. Keep this game fun!

Once your dog can comfortably wear the muzzle for a few minutes at a time, you can put it away and bring it out occasionally to remind your dog how much fun the muzzle is to wear. Then, if your dog ever needs to wear a muzzle during an emergency, he will be prepared.

Crate training your dog is equally important. Crates are not only wonderful aids for house training, they also make comfy sleeping quarters and provide safe travel compartments. Your dog’s ability to settle into a crate can mean the difference between a stressed-out dog and a comfortable dog if he should ever need an overnight stay at the veterinary hospital.

“We can really tell when a dog is crate trained,” said Dr. Sharp. “The dogs who are crate trained, go in and lie down.” Dogs who aren’t crate trained more often bark or cry from being confined.

7. Liberally employ treats and toys.
When you do take your dog to the vet for a regular exam or for treatment for an illness, be sure to bring along treats or toys to help reinforce your dog’s good behavior. Be generous with your rewards and really let your dog know when he is doing a good job.

Use chew toys to help dogs who tend to “hide” in the waiting room; this helps many dogs feel safer and more secure. Some dogs will lie under a chair (preferably behind your feet) with a chew toy and settle in until it is their turn to see the vet. You may also want to try TTouch or other types of relaxing massage to help your dog “de-stress” while in the waiting room (see “A Calming TTouch,” WDJ May 1999).

Many dogs who are nervous in a vet’s office do very well when given a “job.” I’ve been known to run through my dogs’ entire “trick” repertoire in the waiting room because it keeps my high-energy working dogs focused and relaxed.

Your vet may also find it useful to employ your dog’s favorite toy or treat. Dr. Sharp recalls dealing with a Border Collie whose stress reaction manifested itself through aggression; she won him over by playing ball with him in the exam room! “This was a Flyball dog,” said Dr. Sharp, “and playing ball totally broke through his aggressive behavior.”

Keep up the good work!
After your dog has become well-accustomed and trained for trips to the vet, it’s a good idea to continue with your daily handling and occasionally stop by the vet clinic just to say “hello.” And, if your dog has been doing great at the vet and then suddenly, after a traumatic visit, does an emotional backslide, don’t worry! Just read back over these tips and re-acquaint your dog to the different elements involved in vet visits. You can help your dog recover and learn to again relax during regular vet exams.

-by Mardi Richmond

Mardi Richmond lives in Santa Cruz, California, where she teaches Agility for Fun classes and writes about dogs. She is the co-author of Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs.

Let Them Eat Grass!

By
CJ Puotinen
-
0
Most dogs will eat a few blades when they have the chance. Others are veritable lawnmowers, eating (and often vomiting) whole clumps of grass, to their owners’ dismay.

A reader asks, “Why does my dog eat grass? It makes him throw up. I’’d like to train him not to do this, but I’’m not sure how.”

Dogs have been eating grass for so long that one species is called dog grass in their honor. Dog grass or couch grass (Agropyron repens), which is also called quackweed, grows in all but our southernmost states, and it is most commonly found in the upper Midwest.

The world’s most experienced canine herbalist was Juliette de Bairacli Levy, whose Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat was published in 1955. In its sixth edition (1992, Faber & Faber, London), she wrote, “”The favorite dog medicine, also much eaten by cats, is dog grass or couch grass. Of this herb they eat the leaves and the root, which they either vomit up, with much yellow bile fluid, or excrete. It is a cleanser of the bowels and removes worms. When my dogs cannot get couch grass, they will utilize other grasses, but do so with reluctance. Their next choice after couch grass seems to be wild oats.””

Preventing dogs from eating grass is a serious mistake, she warns, noting that dogs bring on deliberate internal cleansing by eating things that help them expel excess bile, mucus, and other impurities.

Feeding clean greens

At the same time, dogs fed grass on a regular basis don’’t seem to crave outdoor grass the way they do if grass isn’’t part of their diet.

“”I know a man who raised barley sprouts commercially for horses,”” wrote wheatgrass pioneer Ann Wigmore in Our Precious Pets (National Humane League, 1987). “”He had great success with restoring fertility to impotent studs. A friend thought that if these sprouts were so great with horses, they might also be great with dogs. He fed them to dogs with wonderful success. I would suggest either rye or barley sprouts for dogs and cats. These sprouts should be better for animals than wheat sprouts. They would serve as a good supplement to commercial pet foods.””

To grow rye or barley grass for pets, soak one cup organically grown grain in one quart water for 8 to 10 hours or overnight. Drain the jar and leave it on its side in a warm location, away from direct sunlight. After 24 to 48 hours, a tiny white rootlet will emerge from each grain. If you don’’t see this growth, your grain is not viable and should be discarded. Irradiated grain won’’t sprout, and neither will grain that has been improperly stored.

To grow grass, spread the sprouting grain on one inch of moist potting soil or top soil in a plastic garden tray. For best results, create a one-inch channel around the soil for drainage.

Cover the tray for two days, then uncover, water it thoroughly and place it in direct sunlight or under grow lights. Water as needed to keep the soil moist.

Begin harvesting the grass with scissors or a sharp knife when it is six to eight inches tall. Cereal grasses keep well in the refrigerator if stored with a damp paper towel in plastic zipper bags from which the air is expelled prior to sealing.

Cut or mince the grass into tiny pieces, or place a small amount in a blender or food processor with other foods.

Begin by feeding a small amount, as little as a fraction of a teaspoon, to be sure your dog will accept the grass. Gradually increase the amount to about one tablespoon per 50 pounds of body weight.

Cereal grasses are rich in chlorophyll, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and amino acids. Before fast-acting antibiotics were developed, chlorophyll was the drug of choice for preventing infection, curing ulcers, relieving pain, and treating skin diseases and anemia.

Ann Wigmore described how wheat grass and other cereal grasses improved the health and growth of her guinea pigs, parakeets, turkeys, chickens, dogs, cats, monkey, raccoon, and skunk, and she published letters from people who gave grass to their pets to prevent or treat cataracts, fleas, tumors, excessive shedding, diarrhea, anemia, and other illnesses.

There’s probably no humane way to train a dog not to seek something its body needs, so the best strategy here may be to add grass to your dog’s dinner and respect his practice of herbal medicine.

Download the Full July 2001 Issue

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member.
JOIN NOW

Join Whole Dog Journal

Get full access to Whole-Dog-Journal.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $20.
Join today and save 30% off our full price.
Already a member?
| Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

How To Choose The Best Shelter Dog for Your Family

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
1

Ask trainer Sue Sternberg where you should get a dog and, without hesitation, she’ll tell you to go to an animal shelter. She should know – as a nationally recognized dog trainer and owner of Rondout Valley Kennels, a boarding kennel, training and behavior center, and private shelter in Accord, New York, she regularly works with shelters across the country, and counsels families who have adopted from them.

In addition, Sternberg has produced several booklets and videotapes about issues specific to shelter dogs and shelter dog adoption. The booklets include Temperament Testing for Dogs in Shelters and A Guide to Choosing your Next Dog from the Shelter; the videos include The Controversial Pit Bull about temperament testing Pit Bulls in shelters, and Training Your Shelter Dog. She also is a frequent and popular speaker at all sorts of dog-related venues.

Setting aside all of the arguments for buying a puppy from a breeder, Sternberg emphatically pronounces that you should adopt a dog from a shelter because, as she says, “it’s the right thing to do. Because there are great dogs in animal shelters, and because dogs in shelters need homes. There is no need to get a puppy from a breeder in order to raise it right – getting your dog at an early age is no guarantee of how he will turn out. Plus, you can find all the great qualities you could ever want in a shelter mixed-breed dog or puppy, or in one of the thousands of purebreds waiting in shelters on any given day.”

Of course, there are plenty of canine train wrecks desperately seeking homes in animal shelters as well – dogs who will cause heartache and trauma for the average dog owner. Sternberg offers tips to help prospective adopters find the diamonds in the rough world of animal sheltering.

Before you visit a shelter
There are a number of steps you need to take before you even set foot inside the shelter door. Doing some pre-visit homework can greatly increase your odds of finding the perfect pup. Here are Sternberg’s suggestions:

• Visit Petfinder on-line, at www.petfinder.org. This web site lists shelters across the country, and can pinpoint the ones in your area starting with those closest to you. You can also search for specific breeds or breed mixes.

Caution: If all dogs on a particular shelter’s website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn’t know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.

Petfinder is not a complete list of all shelters, so you also need to check your local phone book for others in your area. You should be willing to travel a good distance, as much as three hours or more, to find the right dog at the right shelter.

• Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.

• Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.

• Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don’t go to such a shelter.

• Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.

• Talk to the trainer you like about accompanying you to the shelter to select a dog. You should expect to pay a fee for this service, so you may want to arrange to have her visit with you once you find one or more possible adoption candidates.

• When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.

• Avoid rigid preconceptions about what kind (age, breed, sex, size, color, coat length) of dog you want. Be prepared to enter the shelter with an open mind. Size, for example, is not a good indicator of energy level or adaptability to a small house – many large dogs are better suited to apartment life than are the typically high-energy but small Jack Russell Terriers.

The shelter visit
Although it’s best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. “A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog’s success in a home than any other trait,” Sternberg says. “Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.”

Stand firm on this behavior criteria as you progress through Sternberg’s 12-step program for adoption success:

1. As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this.

2. When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do.

3. On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he’s a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog – a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog.

4. When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can – find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.)

Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections – leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you.

If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that’s okay – it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate.

5. If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you’ve touched him (“Yuck, people cooties!”) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he’s telling you he doesn’t like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back.

6. If he passes the petting test, ask a shelter staff member if you can feed him a meal – a small bowl of kibble, or a handful of biscuits that you brought with you. You want to test him for resource guarding – another behavior that puts him at high risk for biting. Put a bowl of food or pile of treats on the floor, enough that it will take him about 45 seconds to finish it. Now (BE CAREFUL!) talk to him, then pet him gently on the back. (Do not try to take the food away!) You want him to wag his tail, wag his tail harder, or even stop and look at you as if to say, “Hi! I’m eating right now, I’ll be back with you shortly.” He may even stop eating and prefer to be with you.

However, if he stiffens, blocks you with his body, glares at you, lowers his head into the dish, growls, or tries to move the food away from you, he is a resource guarder, and not a good adoption choice.

7. If he passes the first food test, up the ante. Ask the shelter staff if you can give him a chew hoof, pig ear, rawhide, or some other very valuable object. Again, you want to see if he is cooperative or competitive with this resource. Slowly move toward him and look for any of the guarding signs described in the previous step. If you see them, stop the test. If not, slowly reach for the object from a distance of at least two feet, then jerk your hand back. Repeat this step three times. You are looking for a dog who is relaxed about your approach. If you see any signs of guarding, don’t adopt. Have the staff person retrieve the valuable object and put the dog away.

8. If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching.

9. Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes – enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.)

10. Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don’t worry if he pulls, or is very distracted – these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list.

11. If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by, especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by – this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.

12. If you still have one or more candidates in the running, ask the shelter staff if you can put them on temporary hold while you make arrangements to return with your kids and spouse (if you have them) and trainer. You may also want to bring your current dog, if you have one, so your trainer can help with the first introduction. Shelter staff may tell you that they can’t put a dog on hold, because if someone else wants to adopt in the meantime and you don’t return for some reason, he might miss out on his best chance for a home. This is reasonable. However, they should be willing to note that you are interested on the dog’s paperwork, and give you a reasonable amount of time to return, so the dog isn’t selected for euthanasia before you can get back with your crew in tow.

When you do return, your trainer will be able to help you make an educated final decision about which of the dogs on your short list is the best choice for a long relationship with your family.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Awesome Adoptions – Consider A Shelter Dog”
Click here to view “How to Help A Shelter Dog Find Their Home”

Taking Measures to Prevent Separation Anxiety Related Behaviors

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0

[Updated October 5, 2017]

Thank goodness, I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety. This complex behavior challenge can be one of the most difficult to live with, and one of the toughest to resolve. The dog who panics when left alone may manifest a range of behaviors that the average owner finds intolerable, including serious household destruction (I’ve heard about dogs who have clawed holes through the walls of their homes, all the way through the outdoor siding), self-injury from biting or clawing at doors or walls, hysterical vocalization (nonstop whining, crying, barking, howling, and/or screaming), and inappropriate defecation and urination – on floors, carpets, beds, and owners’ possessions.

Separation anxiety (SA) stems from a dog’s natural survival instinct to stay in close proximity to the pack. In the wild, a canine who is left alone is more likely to die, either from starvation, since he has no pack to hunt with, or from attack, since he has no pack mates for mutual protection. Given the vital importance of a dog’s canine companions, it speaks volumes about their adaptability as a species that we can condition them to accept being left alone at all! We’re lucky we don’t have far more SA problems than we do, especially in today’s world, where few households have someone at home regularly during the day to keep the dog company.

old dog looking out window

Recipe for Failure

It’s not enough that dogs are naturally inclined to become anxious when left alone. Many well-intentioned but misguided owners of new dogs inadvertently set the stage for SA by doing all the wrong things when they first bring their new dog home.

For example, lots of families adopt their new dog or puppy at the beginning of the summer, when the kids will be home to spend a lot of time with him. Other new-dog parents may take several days off from work, or at least arrange to bring the dog home on a Friday afternoon so they have the entire weekend to help the new kid settle in. On its face, this is a thoughtful approach to acclimating the dog to his new life. What better way to help him feel comfortable and welcome than to give him a couple of days of your loving company?

It’s true that spending extra time with the newcomer can help smooth the transition for him, but unless you take some important precautions, you could be setting him up for a rude awakening on Monday morning when you go back to work, leaving him alone all day to wonder and worry the pack is ever coming back to rescue him from solitary confinement.

Recipe for Success

The key to SA is to never trigger it in the first place. This is without a doubt one of those behaviors where it is well worth investing in many ounces of prevention, lest you end up spending many beginning with making a wise selection of your new family member.

Dogs adopted from animal shelters seem to have a higher than average incidence of SA. We don’t know whether this is because dogs with SA are more likely to be recycled through shelters by their frustrated owners, or because the stress of shelter life triggers SA in previously unaffected dogs. It’s likely that both explanations play a significant role. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t adopt from a shelter. It means that you need to look for signs of potential SA whatever the source of your new dog, and especially if you adopt from a shelter or rescue group.

Dogs who seem anxious in general are more likely candidates for SA, particularly those who are worried and clingy. Velcro dogs who won’t leave your side in the get-acquainted area, even though they have just met you, can be hard to resist. “She loves me already,” you think to yourself. “How can I possibly leave her here to face the risk of euthanasia?”

Indeed, that kind of instant bond can be very endearing in the moment. It is far less so when you get home from a hard day’s work to find your sofa cushions in shreds, and dog feces and urine smeared across the kitchen, or worse, a note from your landlord informing you that elderly Mr. Jones with a heart condition who lives in the apartment next door called 11 times today to complain that someone was screaming at the top of their lungs in your living room. If you do think that’s your furry soulmate glued to your leg in the get-acquainted room, do a simple test. Place an inexpensive pillow or cushion that you have purchased at Goodwill for this very purpose on the chair or floor, and leave the dog alone in the room for 10 minutes. Wait outside, close enough that you can hear any activity. Ideally, the shelter will have a one-way window into the room, so you can watch her but she can’t see you. Now, take note of what she does.

A certain amount of activity is normal. She might explore the room, playfully chew on the pillows or other dog toys, snuffle at the door, and stand up on her hind legs to look out the window. She might even whine or bark a bit to see if anyone responds. As long as she seems relatively calm, and settles down after several minutes, you’re not looking at SA behavior, despite her instant and endearing connection to you. You will still need to take precautions not to trigger SA once you get her home, but again, that’s easier than undoing an existing condition.

If, however, she charges in a panic from one end of the room to the other, digs frantically at the door, flings herself bodily at the window, shreds the pillow into tiny pieces and proclaims her distress vocally and insistently, you are looking at a serious behavior challenge. If you choose to adopt her anyway, be prepared to enter into a long-term, potentially costly relationship with a good, positive behavior counselor and a doggie daycare facility.

Puppies are less likely to come complete with a fully developed set of SA behaviors, but again, some are more likely candidates than others. Puppies will naturally exhibit some concern at being isolated from their littermates, but the pup who happily visits with you or explores his new environment is a safer bet than the one who shows immediate distress and a single-minded determination to return to his siblings. A conscientious breeder who makes an effort to separate littermates for brief, non-traumatic periods between the ages of six to eight weeks can help set the stage for a puppy who is able to tolerate being left alone when he arrives in his new home.

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

A Guide to Choosing the Best Dog Trainer for You AND Your Dog

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
-
5

So, you’ve decided that you and your dog need professional help. Don’t worry; all relationships can use a helping hand at one point or another. Maybe the two of you have communication issues that need to be dealt with (like your dog doesn’t listen and you wish he would!). Or maybe your bouncing bundle of fur is growing faster and bigger than expected, and you’re desperate for a constructive outlet for all that energy and enthusiasm. You’re sure that training is the answer to your problems – and you are probably right!

But how can you sort through piles of names given to you by well meaning friends, neighbors, your veterinarian, and the folks at the feed store? (We also recommend looking through the Trainer Search at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers web site, found at www.apdt.com. APDT is dedicated to building better trainers through education, promoting dog-friendly methods and encouraging their use.) Getting names is not the problem; figuring out which trainer will be just right for you and your dog is the first step in meeting your training needs. And the following five tips will help!

1. Look for a trainer who offers what you want

That may seem obvious. You want someone to help you train your dog – right? But different trainers have different skills and offer a variety of services. To really narrow down your specific needs and wants, ask yourself:

• Do I want a group class or individual training? Each has its benefits. For someone with a new puppy, a class offers essential opportunities for socialization. Plus, classes are less expensive than individual training. With individual training, however, you’re more likely to get personalized attention and have your specific needs addressed.

• Am I looking for general training or do I need help with a specific problem? If you are dealing with a behavior problem such as barking, separation anxiety or aggression, you may want to look for a trainer or behaviorist with experience in that area.

• Am I primarily looking for short-term training opportunities to help my dog become a happy member of my family, or do I have specific long-term goals such as obedience or agility competition? Some of us look for training classes because we love dog sports and hanging out with people who are as crazy about their dogs as we are.

Take Nancy Layton, for example. Layton, who lives in Aptos, California, with her mixed-breed, Dodger, and her Bearded Collie,Scout, plans to compete with both of her dogs in obedience and agility. “I was working with one trainer that I really liked, but her classes weren’t consistent enough for me,” says Layton who decided to train with a club that offered the structure she needed to prepare for competition.

2. Investigate different training methods
Trainers use a variety of techniques and methods. Most of the techniques do “work” to change behavior, but not all are gentle, kind, and humane. When choosing a trainer, it is essential to understand which training methods are both humane and effective. Positive reinforcement training, for example, works by rewarding what the dog does right. It is an effective, humane, and fun way to train. Dogs can easily (and happily) learn everything from basic manners to masters’ level agility using positive reinforcement techniques.

Positive reinforcement training is becoming more common all the time, making it easier to find good trainers who use reward-based methods. Two of the most popular positive methods are “lure and reward” and “clicker training.” Both use food as the primary reinforcement and both methods are very effective.

We would suggest that you steer away from “traditional” or military based-training methods that use choke or pinch collars. Training can be accomplished without correction-based techniques; force is not necessary to train dogs. In addition, we’d recommend that you run from any trainer that uses inhumane practices such as hitting, kicking, hanging, shocking, or any other action that can cause a dog pain or distress.

When asking a trainer about her training methods, listen carefully to her answer. As positive reinforcement training has become more popular, some trainers who teach using traditional correction-based methods have begun calling themselves “positive” trainers, too. To discover exactly how a trainer works, ask for a detailed explanation of how she would train a basic behavior such as “Sit.” In addition, ask how she would deal with problems like a dog not listening, a dog misbehaving in class, or a dog who displays aggression.

Best of all, ask to sit in on a typical beginner’s class and watch to see whether or not the trainer’s description of his methods actually matches what he practices.

3. Get a feel for the trainer’s people skills, too
A trainer is part teacher, part therapist, and part communications expert, and the right trainer will help you even more than she will help your dog. But let’s face it, most people who become dog trainers do so because they like or even love dogs, not because they are experts at working with people. So how will you know if a trainer who works well with dogs will really be able to teach you?

Again, your best bet is to go and watch a class and observe the students and their dogs. Do they appear to be relaxed and enjoying the experience? Do you understand the trainer’s explanations? Are suggestions offered to students in a way that you feel good about? Are problems handled so that all involved appear satisfied? Or do the students look puzzled or frustrated?

Most important, however, is that the trainer is able to make it clear to you what is working and what isn’t – and what specifically you can do to fix problems. This takes observation skills, communication skills, and diplomacy. Layton notes that feedback she receives must come in a way that feels supportive, not punitive. A good trainer really needs to be able to “positively reinforce” what the person does right, as well as what the dog does right.

4. Check out the trainer’s level of experience
The length of time a trainer has offered professional services doesn’t determine her ability, but it is a gauge that should contribute to your decision. Someone who has less professional training experience but good skills, for example, may be great for a basic training class. In fact, newer trainers often bring to a class enthusiasm, energy, and creativity that a trainer who has taught for a long time may have lost.

However, a less-experienced trainer may not be the best choice for a class that offers specific activities that require overall behavior knowledge and experience. Take off-leash “play time” as an example. During off-leash socialization (even with puppies), a trainer really needs to be skilled at reading canine body language, predicting interactions, and intervening appropriately when necessary. This takes specialized skills. And a trainer without extensive experience and knowledge might not be the best choice for serious problems such as aggression.

How can you assess a trainer’s experience and knowledge? Ask how long she has worked as a professional trainer and how she learned to train. If your dog has a specific behavior problem, ask if she has dealt with this problem before. Remember that a good trainer will acknowledge what she doesn’t know, as well as what she does know.

Most importantly, trust your instincts. If the trainer “feels” like a good match, she probably is. On the other hand, if you do not have full confidence in a trainer’s ability to help you and your dog, you will be less likely to follow her prescribed plan of action and less likely to have success.

5. Cost and convenience count
While it can be said that you get what you pay for, it is equally true that for most of us a training class needs to be both affordable and convenient. A single class can get you started, but many people need or want advanced training opportunities. And the simple fact is, if you can’t afford the classes, you’re not likely to stick with it!

Changing personality?
After you’ve done your research and found a trainer to help you solve your canine relationship problems, all you have to do is get busy and train, right?

Right – but stay alert to apparent “shifts” in your trainer’s training philosophy or methods. If at any time you and your dog seem to frustrate the trainer, or knock up against the limits of her abilities to solve her student’s problems in a positive fashion, you may want to consider taking a break from training and reconsider your choice.

Less experienced trainers (or those who are, deep down, less committed to positive methods) may not have learned to cope with every type of canine behavior issue or with every dog “personality” positively. While it would be ideal if the trainer was the one who recognized his inability to deal with a given situation and gave you a recommendation for another trainer, it’s fairly rare that this happens. If your trainer begins to use punitive methods, citing your dog’s extraordinary “stubbornness,” “disrespect,” or any other trait as justification for force-based methods, politely excuse yourself from the class, and look for a new trainer. Believe me, there are positive trainers who can deal your dog – no matter how rowdy – without resorting to violence.

If your own commitment to positive methods needs reinforcement, I suggest you read Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor and Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson. Both of these internationally renowned trainers, leaders in the modern dog training field, bolster the argument for positive training by describing how dogs think and learn. Dogs can and do learn to perform specific behaviors in order to avoid punishment, of course, but they are pleasure-seekers by nature. It’s far more effective, both of the authors conclude, to inspire the dog to figure out what behaviors will result in pleasurable rewards. This not only produces a dog who is motivated to do “the right thing,” but also preserves an affectionate, trusting relationship with his handler.

With good luck, good training, and lots of hard work, you’ll soon be over the rowdy dog blues and on to a fulfilling and happy relationship with your canine pal.

 

 

Iams vs. Nutro: An Update

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

It’s unfortunate that The Iams Company was not given the opportunity to provide relevant background information and a scientific point of view prior to the publication of “Iams vs. Nutro: A Dog Food Labeling War,” in the May 2001 issue. Here are the facts.

For more than 50 years, the Iams Company has manufactured premium pet food, and our company mission is to enhance the well-being of dogs and cats by providing world-class quality foods.

The feeding guidelines for Iams Dog Foods are based on: (1) extensive experience making, testing, and selling our premium products; (2) the professional judgement of Iams veterinarians and research nutritionists; (3) the collective judgement of independent experts at universities throughout the U.S.; and (4) direct feedback from Iams Customer Service representatives who respond daily to consumer questions about feeding. If dogs were having problems from underfeeding of Iams products, we would be the first to know.

Veterinarians, pet owners, and statistics from across the country tell us that obesity is a serious nutritional problem for dogs, which can lead to a variety of ailments. Proper feeding management plays a key role in helping dogs maintain a healthy weight, and The Iams Company creates feeding guidelines with the dogs’ well-being in mind. These guidelines are carefully designed to help dog owners feed the right amount of food to achieve the best outcome.

Two years ago, we began updating our feeding guidelines for Eukanuba and Iams Dog Foods – lowering the amount of food we recommend dogs be fed each day. Feedback from pet owners, veterinarians, and breeders over the past two years has reinforced the fact that we made the right decision.

Why would a pet food company recommend consumers to feed less of its food? Iams made that recommendation with the health of its consumers’ pets in mind. The allegation that Iams reduced the recommended feeding quantities to lower the cost of feeding is false. The vast majority of Iams’ advertising involves building consumer awareness and brand recognition. We focus on educating pet owners about the nutritional benefits of feeding Iams and Eukanuba products. The cost or value message has never been the focus of our advertising.

While the misinformation about feeding guidelines is unfortunate, it’s not surprising given that Iams’ recent growth and success in the pet food industry has affected our competitors. Today, Iams’ is investing more in research and development, manufacturing, selling and marketing our premium quality products than ever before.

Ultimately, pets and their owners are the real winners as it relates to our feeding guidelines. We take our business very seriously and we will continue to take appropriate steps to protect our reputation as a world leader in dog and cat nutrition.

We appreciate this opportunity to set the record straight, and we encourage any pet owners who have questions about Iams and Eukanuba products to contact Iams Customer Service at (800) 863-4267.

-Daniel Carey, DVM
Director of Technical Communications Research and Development
The Iams Company, Dayton, OH

 

We read with great interest your article “Iams vs. Nutro.” We feel compelled to point out a few things relevant to the last sentence in your article, which states, “It seems that opportunities for corporate profits will always prevail over the needs of consumers and the health of their animals.” This may apply to Iams, but not to Nutro and other competitors who should not be painted with the same brush. Nutro’s objective was and remains to ensure that consumers are provided with accurate information with which to make informed purchasing decisions. We do not expect you to believe it simply because we say so, but ask you to consider the following:

1. When Nutro discovered and confirmed the misrepresentations being made on the Iams label and in related advertising (and confirmed the unhealthful weight loss suffered by dogs fed off the Iams label), Nutro did not seek a competitive advantage by going to the marketplace with this information. Instead, Nutro went to Iams and appealed to Iams privately to correct its statements to the benefit of consumers and their animals.

2. Kal Kan, another competitor, filed a similar lawsuit concerning Iams’ false and misleading feeding instructions.

3. A consumer class action was also filed in California seeking to vindicate harm to consumers that resulted from Iams’ false statements.

Nutro’s conduct, Kal Kan’s conduct, and the consumer class action in California all have as their central objective ensuring that consumers receive accurate information. That is far different from Iams’ conduct, which clearly evidences support for your concern that “opportunities for corporate profit will always prevail over the needs of consumers and the health of their animals.”

-Jerold I. Sicherman
President, Nutro Products, Inc.
City of Industry, CA

 

Interesting, isn’t it? We’ll keep readers posted on developments in this conflict.

Download the Full June 2001 Issue

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member.
JOIN NOW

Join Whole Dog Journal

Get full access to Whole-Dog-Journal.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $20.
Join today and save 30% off our full price.
Already a member?
| Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Dog Parks Help Socialize and Exercise Dogs in a Safe Environment

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Summer is upon us, and with it comes an irresistible urge to enjoy the great outdoors with our best canine friends. It’s good for them, fun for us, and besides, trainers and behavior counselors are forever reminding us that a tired dog is a well-behaved dog.

But where can we go to take our dogs out for a high-energy, off-leash run? Regular walks on leash don’t even come close to addressing the exercise needs of most dogs. The result is an exacerbation of canine behavior problems including aggression due to lack of socialization, to destructive behavior, hyperactivity, and separation anxiety.

The best solution to the “place to run” dilemma is the dog park. More and more, savvy community leaders are building fenced areas where dogs and their owners are encouraged to run, play, and socialize together. The concept has caught on and is spreading.

If you are fortunate enough to live in one of the communities that boasts a dog park you may have already availed yourself of its benefits and discovered the joys that such parks have to offer. If you just haven’t checked out the park yet, or don’t go very often due to problems you’ve had with your dog there in the past, see “A Walk in the (Dog) Park.”

But if your town lacks a dog park, read on! You could be an integral part of a movement that improves the quality of life for all your city’s dogs – and their neighbors!

Many benefits
Twenty years ago dog parks were a rarity, but today there are hundreds of safe, dog-centered places for recreation, and that’s a good thing! Here are just a few of the ways that a well-designed dog park can benefit the people in a given community:

• Time spent in a dog park helps socialize and exercise dogs in a safe environment, resulting in well-adjusted companion dogs with fewer behavior problems. This can thereby reduce the number of “nuisance dog” complaints sparked by bored, restless dogs who bark, as well as reduce the number of dogs surrendered by their owners to local animal shelters (with a corresponding reduction in euthanasia numbers).

• The availability of a safe, pleasant dog park attracts dog owners to that site, reducing the presence of dogs in multiple-use areas, and preventing off-leash dogs from infringing on the rights of other community residents and park users, such as joggers, small children, and those who may be fearful of dogs.

• Dog parks can provide an accessible place for elderly and disabled owners to exercise and enjoy their canine companions.

• Use of dog parks promotes responsible pet ownership by giving people the opportunity to allow their dogs to run off-leash legally.

• Informal meetings between people with shared interests – dogs! – are ideal for educating owners about responsible dog care and training.

Dog park detractors
But it’s a fact of life in America that no good idea goes uncritiqued. While dog park supporters seem to be outnumbering their detractors, many criticisms (some valid, some ridiculous) have been used to try to torpedo dog park projects in some communities. These include:

• Dog parks can mean dogfights, resulting in injury to dogs or people

• A dog park will result in accumulations of dog waste and human litter

• Loose dogs are a threat to wildlife living in the park area

Fortunately, the majority of these concerns (and most others you can think of) can be alleviated if a dog park is carefully planned and executed. The very fact that dog parks have been in operation for years in so many communities can help proponents of new projects.

While the dog park pioneers had to figure out what works and what doesn’t by (costly) trial and error, there is now very good information about the best ways to design, build, and manage facilities. If organizers in your town draw on the best examples of successful parks, they can build a new park that will minimize any negative impact on the community and maximize the safety and enjoyment of all who use it.

Overcoming objections
Today, many successful public dog parks are maintained under the auspices of a “user group” – dog owners who frequent the park regularly, educate new users, and help enforce park rules. These user groups can be a valuable resource for educating both the park visitors as well as civic leaders who may have concerns.

For example, the presence of an active user group significantly reduces the risk of one concern expressed by many: dogfights. User group members will step in and encourage (or demand) leashes on or the removal of aggressive or out-of-control dogs. They also help novice dog owners learn how to read their dogs’ body language and intervene appropriately when a conflict seems imminent. (While it can be difficult to “sell” a balky city council on the added expense, it is very helpful to plan the park with two or three separate enclosures. Conflict between large and small and/or bold and timid dogs can be vastly reduced if at least one area is designated specifically for the little and/or shy guys.)

A user group can also ensure that the “accumulations of waste” issue never piles up. Peer pressure is the best insurance against waste disposal problems. If the culture of the park users is such that they consistently clean up their own dogs’ waste (and the occasional unclaimed pile), it will become obvious that they don’t tolerate irresponsible owners who don’t scoop poop.

In fact, the dog park culture can serve an important educational function and public service by teaching unaware dog owners about the importance of cleaning up after their dogs everywhere, not just at the park. Park users can also be instrumental in educating newcomers about disease and parasite prevention and control.

Members of the user group can also help determine what rules will guide the behavior of park visitors, human and canine. Well-run dog parks have clear rules prominently posted at all park entrances.

Rewarding activism
Don’t panic if all of this sounds like a daunting task; you will be amazed at how many like-minded dog lovers there are in your community who would be more than happy to help get a local park built. You won’t have to sell dog owners on the park’s benefits!

However, when dealing with people who have little experience with dogs, be prepared to explain, over and over, how such a park will benefit the humans who happen to own dogs – as well as their neighbors! City leaders may never enjoy the vision of well-socialized dogs playing and running off-leash the way we do, but they should be able to appreciate how much quieter the evenings are, as the tired, happy dogs of your community snore peacefully through the night!

Also With This Article
Click here to view “How To Raise A Well Socialized Dog”

-By Pat Miller

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer in Fairplay, Maryland. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

Comparing the Best Raw Dog Food Diet Plans

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Have you ever noticed that dog owners tend to select one expert to follow in the area of nutrition and another for training? And they’ll often adhere to their personal guru’s program no matter what? Is it our unconscious dog-like loyalty, or what?

Many of our readers are already preparing their dogs’ food themselves, and generally, they are following the guidelines of some canine nutrition expert. We hear three names a lot – Dr. Ian Billinghurst, Kymythy Schultze, and Wendy Volhard are mentioned most frequently – and they are often being compared to the others.

However, many more of our readers have not yet sorted out the differences between the raw diets being promoted today. To help the readers who fit this description understand the differences between the leading raw food gurus, we present (via the links below) our own objective comparisons of the competing diet plans.

Interestingly, each of the three experts we spoke to had different foods on their lists of desirable ingredients and inappropriate ingredients – despite the fact that each characterizes their nutritional plans as recreations of a dog’s “evolutionary diet.” In other words, their ideals and goals are the same, but the routes they take to there are quite divergent.

Also very dissimilar are the personal styles with which our three experts approach the task of feeding dogs for optimal health. This should come as no surprise; each of these knowledgable people have strong personalities – necessary, perhaps, for buck-ing the commercial dog food establishment! Interestingly, their personalities are reflected in their diets, and their diets, in turn, tend to attract dog owners with similar personalities.

For these reasons, we couldn’t begin to rank these diet plans; it wouldn’t make any sense for us to tell you which one we think is “best” for your dog. In our opinion, based on our research and observations, each of the experts we interviewed has a viable and valuable plan for improving the health of your dog. But you are the person who has to plan ahead, purchase, prepare, and serve the foods to your dog; you have to approach the task with confidence, and take responsibility for the results. Choose the approach that makes the most sense and feels best to you.

Even more to choose from
Please note that there are dozens more raw feeding proponents who promote different “natural” diets for dogs, several of whom have also published books and articles and who frequently lecture on the subject. For this article, we decided to focus on the three people whose names we hear most frequently from our readers. We will examine some of the other leading experts in the field of raw diets for dogs in future issues.

For more information about the raw feeding experts discussed in the above article, refer to their books – each of which is available through DogWise (800-776-2665 or www.dogwise.com) – or the expert’s personal web pages:

Dr. Ian Billinghurst: www.drianbillinghurst.com.

Kymythy Schultze: http://home.earthlink.net/~affenbar/.

Wendy Volhard: www.volhard.com.

-By Nancy Kern

Another Round of Dog Toy Testing – A Focus on Safety, Durability and Cost

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Testing new toys! This is always our favorite assignment, since we get to spend lots of time playing with our dogs. We have once again perused the pages of various dog supply stores, catalogs, web sites, and trade shows to find a selection of new toys to review. This time, we found a greater than usual percentage of delightful surprises, though we were, as usual, also disappointed a few times.

All in all, remember that proper toy selection is a very individualized venture – you must keep your own dog’s interests, propensities, and chew power in mind when shopping for her.

The reviews here are based on the following criteria:

Dog appeal and human appeal
Obviously, a toy should be attractive in texture and overall appearance; just as obviously, appeal can vary widely from dog to dog and person to person. One dog’s absolute favorite toy might be the next dog’s “Booooring!” But the whole purpose of a toy is to entertain a dog – and, to a slightly lesser extent, the people who enjoy him. Ask any trainer and she will tell you: A bored dog is often a destructive, “misbehaving” dog. Playing with toys can keep a lonely dog busy, give an undermotivated dog incentive to interact with you, and give you endless opportunities to enjoy each other. So, the toy has to look and feel . . . fun!

Safety
Toys should pose no casual danger to the dog. Any toy can be chewed up by some dogs, even the incredibly durable black Kong toy. The toy assortment that is suitable for aggressive chewers is much more limited than the variety of toys for dogs who don’t tend to chew up their toys. But no toy should begin to come apart after just a minute or two of play, exposing dangerously small or toxic components, such as stuffing or threads that can cause internal problems if swallowed.

Even though we deplore the lack of garden variety common sense that necessitates warning labels on dog toys, we like to see safety warnings included with every toy. Most people need to be reminded to supervise their dogs with every toy, and to buy appropriately sized toys for their dogs (no dog should have a ball that he could accidently swallow, for example). If a toy poses special risks – say, a toy that includes rope that contains long threads – then the label ought to include warnings specific to that toy. (For instance. “Do not allow your dog to chew up or swallow the rope or rope fibers as these can cause damage to the gastrointestinal tract.”)

Durability
While the perfect chew object for Tiffany may be shredded in an instant by Jaws, you want the toy to provide at least a few weeks or months of entertainment. At least, we do! We really don’t fancy spending an appreciable percentage of our monthly budget on toys that last only hours or days.

Cost
The above statement notwithstanding, we’re willing to pay more for something that provides tons o’ fun and lasts forever. If it doesn’t meet these criteria, it had better be cheap!

Top new toys
We had better discuss the PitBall while we are talking about spending small fortunes. Yes, this is a fabulously expensive toy; at $129, it’s not a casual purchase for most dog owners. But the PitBall is a be-all, end-all toy for ball-obsessed dogs; it’s not your average dog toy. Think of it as playground equipment rather than a toy, and the price sounds better. For the right dog – one who loves to chase balls and constantly has excess energy (read Border Collie or Jack Russell Terrier), the PitBall can be a godsend.

Created by Gary Bessette, owner and operator of the Puppy PlayGround in Ormond, Florida (see “Members Only clubs For Dogs,” below.), this toy consists of a molded plastic ring, five feet in diameter, and a hard plastic ball, too large and too hard for a dog to pick up in his mouth. The ring is shipped in three pieces, which snap together easily and can be staked to the ground. The concept is simple – the dog chases the ball around and around and around the ring until he gets bored, tired, or until the owner puts the ball away.

Several of our test dogs had no interest in the PitBall – chasing a plastic ball around in an endless circle just wasn’t their thing, and they couldn’t be bothered. Our Scottish Terrier tester showed moderate interest and played with the ball for a few minutes. We left it out for him to play with, and about once a day he will take a turn in the pit, romping with the ball for about five minutes before he gets bored with it. (He did manage to push the ball over the top of the ring once, and thought it was much more exciting to chase the ball around the entire fenced back yard – until it got stuck in a low corner.)

Our Jack Russell tester was another story. He quickly became addicted to the toy; he couldn’t get enough of it. He harassed the red ball mercilessly until we put it away, fearing that the little guy would overexert himself. Every time we brought the ball back out, he ran to the “pit,” ready for play. PitBall proved to be a perfect outlet for his over-the-top JRT energy. There was only one problem: he, too, became adept at flipping the ball out of the ring, and he was just as happy to chase it around the yard. We’ll need a much heavier ball to keep him in the pit.

If your dog loves to chase balls and leans toward obsessive behaviors and hyperactivity, this might be your ticket to a happy, tired pet and a calmer household. Just don’t let him overdo it – be sure to restrict his PitBall activity to a healthy level – physically and mentally.

Stuck on a stick
Boy, were we skeptical about paying $15 for a stick to throw for our dogs, especially since we figured that our moderately hard chewers would turn it into toothpicks in no time. We were delightfully surprised; we have been using the stick for more than two months now, and whatever “non-threatened hardwood” it is made of is pretty darn tough – our dogs’ teeth have barely made a mark on it. We love the Fetch!

Fetch is a 12-inch piece of hardwood, rounded on the ends and tapered in the middle, and, according to the amusing booklet that comes with it, is individually hand-tooled, rubbed to super smoothness, and safe, durable, and non-toxic. It’s almost more a work of art than a dog toy! The maker of the Fetch says it should last forever. We believe it. Our dogs certainly hope so. Of course, we don’t leave it out for them to chew on when we’re not playing fetch, but still, we expected more damage than this.

Our only caveat is that it’s heavy and solid enough that you need to be careful with your aim; you wouldn’t want to bonk your dog on the head, and you wouldn’t want him to try to catch it in his mouth – it might break a tooth!

Getting a handle on it
We wouldn’t want the job of inventing a new type of ball, but the maker of the Action Ball has certainly gotten creative with the task. The Action Ball is essentially a regular ball – it comes in a football, soccer ball, or basketball model – with tough nylon straps harnessed around the ball with two rope tugs extending at opposite ends (look at the photo, above center; it’s hard to describe!).

Our dogs thoroughly enjoyed playing with the ball: chasing it (it’s too big to bite) and carrying it around by the ropes. They play with it by themselves, with each other, and with us. Our 75-pound Cattle Dog mix, Tucker, will grab one rope and drag 20-pound Dubhy around, firmly attached to the other. After more than two months of hard play, our soccer ball is slightly deflated, but still round and very usable (the ball can be easily reinflated with a bike pump and special needle for this purpose). The nylon straps are still intact, and the rope tugs, while somewhat shredded, are still serviceably tuggable.

The Action Ball is one of our dogs’ all-time favorite toys (and ours!). It meets our criteria for a safe tug-of-war toy – long enough that dog teeth stay far away from human flesh, and the ball neatly prevents the dog’s grip from creeping higher and higher up the rope – a hazard with some tug toys.

Improving the tennis ball idea
We were happily surprised by the durability of this simple toy – a hard, hollow, rubber ball, about four inches in diameter and covered with a tough patterned plush.

We’ve never been able to confirm rumors that ordinary tennis balls contain harmful adhesives (or something), but we’re happy to see the manufacturers claim on the ZooBeez balls that the products do not contain toxins of any kind. Dogs who are more determined than ours to dismantle a ZooBeez ball might succeed in doing so, but our ball has held up quite well in the jaws of some pretty tough testers, with no visible signs of damage after two months of dog exposure. While this toy lacks some of the novelty and excitement of our top choices, it is an attractive, sturdy, usable, and affordable item worth adding to your dog’s toy box.

(Not so) tough
These soft toys are so cute, and since they are advertised as “tennis ball tough” we had high hopes that we had finally found a sturdy, soft chew toy. Our hopes were quickly dashed. It took our test dogs fewer than three hours to pop the seams of our adorable Tennis Tough horse (it comes in several animal shapes) and pull out the stuffing.

True, the outer cover itself is tough, and our dogs tossed around the empty horse shell for several days after we removed the stuffing and squeaker, before we finally threw it out. At that point the seams had deteriorated even further, so we were finding pieces of blue horse all over the house.

This is a great soft toy for gentle chewers; two of our dogs would have treasured this toy for years if not for their destructive siblings. If the maker could just find a way to make the seams tougher, it might hold up for stronger chewers, too.

Not comfortable
This 16-inch-long product pictured in the catalog looked like it had great potential to be a safe and sturdy tug toy, with interesting shapes for the dog to grip.

Sturdy it is, indeed. We purchased the “Chew Bar and Inner Tube” model, and found that the plastic bar and tube are so hard that our dogs didn’t even like to hold onto them, preferring instead to grab for the soft nylon rope that holds the pieces together. This put our canines’ canines uncomfortably near my hand, which was holding onto the uncomfortable green plastic handle.

(Note: Contrary to some trainers’ philosophies, we like playing tug-o-war with our dogs. For safety rules and training advice, see “Play and Train by Tugging,” March 1999.)

The same product designed with a little more give in the plastic parts might be a winner, but for now, we’ll pass on this one.

No date for Bettie
The Bettie is an attractive three-legged throw toy, eight inches across, made of a non-toxic rubbery material. The packaging promises that the “buoyant material makes water play fun,” that the “chewy hollow legs” can hold tasty treats, that the “lightweight construction makes throwing a breeze,” and the shape makes it “perfect for tug-o-war.”

Well, it does float.

A small note on the back of the pakaging says, “not recommended as a chew toy.” We concur. It took our Scottie tester a total of three minutes to destroy the Bettie. Even a few retrieves with a dog who mouths the retrieve object at all would do terminal damage to the Bettie, and tug-o-war is out of the question. If you have a soft-mouthed retriever who doesn’t bite down at all, the Bettie might do it for you. Otherwise,your dog is far better off with a Fetch stick.

-By Pat Miller

Classical Conditioning for Dogs

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
-
2

When Maggie, a young Australian Cattle Dog-mix, first walked into our agility training yard, she was obviously scared. As I crouched near her, hand outstretched with a treat, she slunk away. When another dog moved on the opposite side of the yard, she jumped. When her handler led her gently past a tunnel, she tried to escape and run away. When a truck drove by on the street nearby, she cowered.

Maggie was, quite literally, afraid of everyone and everything. I’m sure that if the sun had been out that day, she would have been afraid of her own shadow.

Yet this morning, less than a year later, Maggie confidently marched into the same training yard. She approached another dog, tail wagging. She excitedly ran up to each person in the class (including a couple of people she did not know) asking for attention and treats. Then, at her handler’s direction, Maggie leaped through the tire jump, raced over the A-frame, ran through the tunnel, jumped three jumps, pushed through the chute, and banged down the teeter. And she did all of this while cars and trucks noisily passed on a nearby street.

How did Maggie overcome her fears and learn to confidently approach strangers, interact with other dogs, and charge through an agility course all the while tuning out loud rumbling trucks? The key was a powerful learning experience called classical conditioning.

How Classical Conditioning Works for Dogs (an Humans)

Classical conditioning, quite simply, is learning by association. It is when a person or animal associates one stimulus with something that was not previously associated. For example, if you ran an electric can opener in front of a dog who had never eaten anything out of a can before, he may not respond to the sound in any way. But if you begin feeding the same dog canned food, he’ll soon learn to associate the sound of the electric opener with the advent of his dinner, and begin to display great excitement whenever the electric can opener runs.

Classical conditioning happens everywhere, all the time, with or without our help or knowledge. Most of us have dogs that get excited when they hear the jingle of keys. A set of keys, by itself, has no special meaning for dogs. But when those keys are linked with walks or car rides, they can trigger as much excitement as the walks or car rides themselves.

While classical conditioning occurs naturally, we can also consciously use it as part of training and socialization. Classical conditioning is one of the most powerful (and often underutilized!) training tools available.

Using Positive Association in Dog Training

Classical conditioning differs from other types of training; in fact, it’s not training, per se, although it can play an important role in the training process. The goal of training is to get the dog to exhibit certain behaviors – or cease to exhibit certain undesired behaviors – on cue. For example, you want the dog to sit when you use a verbal cue, or you want to teach the dog not to jump up on you. Most training is accomplished through the use of operant conditioning, the use of rewards and/or punishment to encourage or discourage the dog from displaying certain behaviors. Praise, petting, or feeding a dog treats when he is sitting increases the likelihood of his sitting behavior; punishment such as ignoring the dog and turning your back on him will decrease his jumping behavior.

With classical conditioning, on the other hand, changing the dog’s behavior is not your immediate goal, but rather, a “backdoor” sort of result of changing his feelings about a given stimulus. Your immediate focus is how the dog feels; you use classical conditioning to make the dog unconsciously react a certain way. This is called a conditioned reflex. The power of classical conditioning comes from its ability to help shift the emotional reactions that drive his behavior.

To use Maggie as an example, we used classical conditioning to help her relax and enjoy being in the training yard. The process was simple: her handler showered her with great treats each time she came into the training yard. Within a few weeks, Maggie’s fears started to subside; strange people, new dogs, spooky obstacles, and noisy trucks no longer triggered a fear response – these things now meant treats! She quickly began relaxing while in the agility yard and anticipating the treats she would receive there. Soon, we were able to start teaching her agility.

As I said, even though classical conditioning does not train a dog to perform behaviors on cue, it can play a powerful role in a behavior modification program.

Dog Clicker Training and Other Reinforcement Tools

One of the most common ways to use classical conditioning in a positive training program is in the initial steps of clicker training. The clicker, at first, has no special meaning to the dog. But as soon as the Click! of the clicker is repeatedly paired with great treats – also known as “charging” the clicker – it becomes a powerful tool in training. The “charged” clicker elicits the same emotional response in the dog as the treat itself.

Classical conditioning can also be used to help dogs learn to accept training tools that they don’t like at first, such as head halters, muzzles, or crates. Take head halters as an example. Many dogs will, without conditioning, resist or even actively dislike wearing a halter. But through associating pleasant things with the halter, most dogs can actually learn to love wearing one. At first, you might give your dog treats when you take out the halter. Next, you give your dog treats, praise, and other enjoyable attention while you hold the halter near the dog, and eventually, you lavish this enjoyable treatment on the dog while he wears the halter. Once the dog can wear the halter without any signs of distress, you can reinforce the conditioning by always having the halter signal the start of fun activities: walks, ball play, training, and other adventures.

Positive Reinforcement and Dog Socialization

Behaviorist and author Jean Donaldson, who directs the behavior and training department at the San Francisco SPCA, calls the use of classical conditioning in conjunction with early socialization “a puppy insurance policy.” Each time you pair the presence of children with treats, for example, you are paying into an insurance policy that will protect you and your dog from behavior problems around children later in life. The more you put into the insurance policy, the bigger your protection! Here’s how it works:

By introducing a puppy or young dog to kids of all different ages, he will be more likely to accept kids. When you provide classical conditioning through feeding treats in the presence of children, the dog will not only learn to accept kids, but also will learn that when he is around kids, good things happen. If you also have the children actually feed your puppy treats or play his favorite game, he will learn that children not only equal good things, but also are the source of good things!

If you incorporate classical conditioning in all of your socialization efforts, you are more likely to have a dog who not only likes the things he’s already encountered, but may also learn to simply enjoy new experiences.

Reassociating Sources of Dog Anxiety

Classical conditioning is a good tool for helping the dog to overcome most types of fears, including fear of people, noises, and new places. One of the great advantages of using classical conditioning to overcome a dog’s fears is that you don’t have to know why the dog is afraid. You just need to figure out what she is afraid of and then condition her to “like” that thing.

For example, a dog that is afraid of umbrellas may be afraid because she hasn’t seen many umbrellas, because an umbrella bopped her on the head when she was a pup, or maybe because a person carrying an umbrella looks like a big, bad monster. You may not know what caused the fear, and truthfully, you don’t need to know in order to help your dog overcome her fear of umbrellas. (See “Putting Classical Conditioning to Work,” below, for step-by-step instructions for using classical conditioning to dispel your dog’s fears.)

Decreasing Fear and Aggression in Dogs

Fear and aggression are usually considered flip sides of the same problem. Dogs that respond to stressful situations with “flight” are considered fearful. Dogs that respond to stressful situations with “fight” are considered aggressive. But the underlying stress reaction may be similar.

I became intrigued with classical conditioning because of my own dog’s problems. Jesse has displayed fear-based dog-to-dog aggression on numerous occasions. I consulted another trainer for this problem, and together we worked on helping Jesse overcome her aggression through remedial socialization, teaching incompatible behaviors, and management.

After years of work, and lots of help from the trainer, Jesse could walk down the street past another dog without acting out, she could perform in dog classes, and she even learned to safely negotiate with other dogs in off-leash play areas. Still, while Jesse was under good control and had improved social skills, she was never relaxed or confident when other dogs were present. And, if her stress level shot too high, the aggressive behavior would resurface.

About a year ago, we began to incorporate large doses of classical conditioning into our work with Jesse. Each time she saw another dog – no matter what she was doing – we showered Jesse with treats. Within six months, her stress response around dogs was noticeably lower. Last week, for perhaps the first time in her life, she stood in the center of a small group of dogs, tail wagging, relaxed, and confident. I would in no way consider her “fixed” at this point, but she is farther along than I would have thought possible just a year ago.

Watching a dog (or cat, or person, or any animal for that matter) overcome a strong fear is a magical experience. So is seeing our dogs becoming calmer and more confident in everyday and especially in strange, new environments. When a dog can learn to relax or even enjoy things that used to be scary, life becomes easier. Quality of life for both of you will dramatically improve.

 

1...300301302...318Page 301 of 318
© Belvoir Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved.