Two months ago, I read a news story about a dog owner in Minnesota who had shared her home and her life with her 10-year-old Great Pyrenees for eight years. On December 30, 2008, the dog attacked his owner as she was trying to trim his nails, sending her to the hospital for multiple bite wounds to her arms. The news report on the incident stated, “[The dog owner] was able to reach another room and closed the door, keeping the dog out.”
The owner in this sad story was treated and released from the hospital the same day. The dog is now dead – euthanized at the veterinary hospital for safety reasons, at the owner’s request. Nail-trimming should not be a matter of life and death. Nor should any other routine grooming procedure. If a dog objects strongly to any sort of physical contact or restraint that may occur in the process of ordinary care, a smart, responsible owner needs to take immediate steps to overcome his objections in a positive, nonaversive manner. Fortunately, this process (described in detail below) is not difficult (or dangerous!) to do – but it does take a serious commitment of time.
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Why not use force? Most of us are pressed for time, and many dog owners may squirm at the thought of yet another dog-care duty that requires the investment of a lot of time (in addition to other training and exercise chores). So why not simply restrain the dog and firmly tell him “No!” if he growls or otherwise objects to the pedicure or other grooming?
The news story of the Minnesota woman and her Great Pyrenees is sadly instructive in this regard. The article I read quoted the dog’s owner as saying that the dog had always been “very, very touchy” about his paws. She even said he had attacked “mildly” before, but she had been able to get him to stop. “He would growl, and generally I could say, ‘Stop it,’ and get him to stop,” she was quoted as saying. “This morning, it didn’t stop.” She then went on to say that for reasons that remained “unclear,” the dog attacked her.
Wait a second. This dog has been telling her for eight years that he didn’t want her to touch his paws. The owner lays out all the reasons the attack occurred, and then says the reasons for it are unclear? How much clearer could it be? This is a classic example of a human totally ignoring her dog’s attempts to communicate with her, this time with a very tragic ending.
Stress is the underlying factor behind almost all aggression – idiopathic aggression being the rare exception (see “Rage Without Reason,” Whole Dog Journal June 2004). We know that suppressing aggressive behavior doesn’t change aggressive behavior; it just drives it underground where it simmers, likely to smash its way out when the stress becomes too great and pushes the dog over his bite threshold – like it did with this Great Pyrenees. In this dog’s case, at age 10 (advanced age for the giant breeds), there may also have been additional stressors such as arthritis, or other age-related conditions. If grasping his paws to clip nails caused him pain, that would have been an additional stressor that further exacerbated his reaction.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m not condemning the owner’s decision to euthanize a dog who caused her serious injury. It’s difficult, if not impossible, to repair a dog-owner relationship that has been damaged this badly. Rehoming a 10-year-old dog with a history of aggressive behavior isn’t generally realistic, either. The real tragedy was the eight years that led up to the final act in this drama – eight years in which the dog tried as best he knew without hurting his owner, to tell her that nail trimming made him very uncomfortable. Eight years during which the owner could have modified his behavior, rather than suppressing it.
Suppressing behavior Behavior suppression is a regrettably popular approach to behavior modification in some circles today. This is partly a carryover from old-fashioned training methods. It has also experienced a large resurgence in popularity due to its regular use on a high-profile television show. But its popularity is also bolstered by the fact that, sometimes, it works.
There is something inherently satisfying to us humans when we tell someone to stop doing something and they stop. At least for the moment. What it doesn’t do is change the underlying motivation for the behavior.
Dogs do things that are reinforced – the behavior either makes a good thing happen (positive reinforcement), or makes a bad thing go away (negative reinforcement). A dog is motivated to do a behavior because it works to do one of those two things. They are also motivated to stop doing behaviors that are punished – the behavior makes good things go away (negative punishment), or makes bad things happen (positive punishment).
Aggression, which is initially an emotional response to stress, can be influenced by reinforcement and punishment. Over the years, that Great Pyrenees’s growling in response to having his paws touched was probably negatively reinforced at least some of the time, since wise humans back off when a dog growls. The dog learned that sometimes people stopped touching his paws if he growled. Intermittent reinforcement makes a behavior very durable. When a behavior is reinforced sometimes, it’s hard to make that behavior go away.
However, sometimes the dog’s growling didn’t work. Not only did his owner continued to mess with his paws, when he got more forceful about trying to make the bad thing go away, his owner got violent in response. So the positive punishment stopped the aggressive behavior for the moment, but it didn’t make it go away, and it didn’t alter the dog’s underlying emotional response to the procedure that stressed him. The violence suppressed the behavior, but it didn’t change it.
Modifying behavior If instead of suppressing his aggression in response to paw handling, his owner had taught the Great Pyrenees to love nail trimming, the pair wouldn’t be mentioned in this article. But another dog and owner well might be. I dare say there are thousands upon thousands of dogs who don’t like having their nails trimmed, and whose discomfort signals in response to the procedure have been suppressed. Their lives – and their humans’ lives – would be much happier if someone took the time to do a little behavior modification.
My own personal canine behavior science lab gives me plenty of nail-trimming material to work with. Three of our four dogs weren’t too happy about pedicures when we first acquired them. Two of the three were unhappy about having their paws touched, much less having their nails trimmed. Dubhy, our Scottie, suffered from severe allergies when we found him. His paws were raw and bleeding. No wonder he was sensitive about them! Lucy the Corgi, on the other hand, is just generally touchy about being touched. Bonnie the Scorgidoodle is fine about touching, even her paws, but doesn’t like the restraint and pressure on her nails that goes along with the clipping. Here’s how we “fixed” each one:
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–Lucy (sensitive to all touch): Since Lucy was touch sensitive in general, I used counter-conditioning and desensitization to help her overcome her dislike of being touched on her legs and body. (See “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization to Touch,” previous pages). This also included other grooming procedures – brushing, looking at her teeth, and cleaning her ears – as well as giving her a positive association with restraint and hugging. Our ultimate solution to nail trimming involved the use of her “Wait” behavior. After we had completed her paw/nail clipper-touch desensitization protocol, I did the following:
1.Told Lucy to “Down” and “Wait.”
2.Placed a yummy treat 12 inches in front of her nose.
3.Clipped one nail.
4.Told her “Take it!” so she could jump up and eat the treat.
5.Repeated steps 1 through 4 for each subsequent next nail.
She now absolutely adores the nail clipping procedure, and I clip multiple nails in between “Take it!” cues, always keeping it random so she never knows which nail clip will result in the treat cue.
–Dubhy and Bonnie (unhappy about having paws touched): I also did a paw/clipper touch desensitization protocol with Dubhy, until he was comfortable having his paws touched and his nails trimmed. However, he and Bonnie both have those awful, dense, black toenails that require heavy pressure on the clippers, which they both found aversive despite counter-conditioning. Plus, it’s devilishly hard to know where the quick is on a solid black nail, and despite my most careful attention, from time to I managed to “quick” them both. You can imagine how painful (and aversive) that must be – and how much of a setback that is even to the most careful modification program (see “A Quick Recovery,” next page).
I had to overcome a negative association of my own to implement the ultimate solution to Dubhy and Bonnie’s nail-trimming challenge. A decade ago while conducting a nail-trimmer product review for Whole Dog Journal (“You Nailed It!” February 1999), I tested a nail-grinder. One of my dogs, the wonderful Josie, was a terrier-mix with hairy feet, and I neglected to keep her fur pulled back from the grinder. It got tangled in the mechanism and yanked painfully on her paw. I’ve been reluctant to use a grinder ever since. Yet I knew it was the right answer to my current two dogs’ nail trimming difficulties, so I bucked up and tried it, using a nylon stocking over their paws to hold back their fur. (The nails poked through a hole in the stocking toe for grinding.)
After some desensitization to the sound of the grinder, both Bonnie and Dubhy are much more comfortable with nail trimming (and still get lots of treats). Their nails look better than they ever have in their lives – and we’re all much happier!
Note: The “as seen on TV” battery-powered nail grinders are inexpensive, and have a built-in guard that prevents hair from tangling in the grinder. However, they’re not very powerful, so it takes a while to get the job done and you go through a lot of batteries. The more expensive models that you can find in pet supply stores, catalogs, and Web-based pet supply businesses are worth the extra cost.
Operant conditioning I often hear dog owners say, “I don’t need to trim my dog’s nails; she runs on pavement (or rocks, or sand) and keeps them worn down herself. “Great,” I think to myself – and sometimes say out loud. “When your dog becomes a less-active senior citizen and no longer wears her nails down, then you’ll face the battle, when it will be even more challenging after all those years to convince her to let you hold her paws and trim her nails.”
If you prefer to let your dog file her own nails, there’s an operant conditioning approach that will still work when your dog is in her golden years. Positive trainer Shirley Chong in Grinnell, Iowa, suggests taking a board 8 to 12 inches wide and 24 to 26 inches long, covering it with slip-proof tape or coarse sandpaper, and teaching your dog to paw at the board to file his own nails. She describes the procedure in detail at shirleychong.com/keepers/nailfile.html. I haven’t tried this procedure yet myself, but I bet all my dogs would enjoy some shaping sessions learning how to do this; it sounds like great fun! The bottom line is, there are a lot of things the owner of the Great Pyrenees could have done over the years to help her dog tolerate, accept, even love having his nails done. If she had, he’d be alive today. If your dog doesn’t like having his nails done, don’t wait; help him learn to love the procedure now. Don’t let nail trimming kill your best friend.
Thanks to Sandi Thompson, of Bravo!Pup Puppy and Dog Training, in Berkeley, California, for demonstrating counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. For contact information, see “Resources,” page 24.
Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog; and Play with Your Dog.
Start out slow. Get your dog comfortable with a parked bike before walking him alongside a bike you are pushing. Only when he’s comfortable with these things should you actually mount up and ride – slowly!
Always wear a helmet when cycling. If you need one more reason to convince you, consider this: If you fell and were knocked out, what would happen to your dog?
Ride at a conservative pace, for short distances, until your dog builds fitness.
If your dog’s enthusiasm or speed lags, stop and investigate. Offer him some water, and slow your pace on the way home.
You walk your dog several times daily, but it never seems to be enough exercise for your energetic pup. It probably isn’t. Healthy dogs need to run, and walking just isn’t an aerobic enough exercise for them. Running with your dog is a great aerobic exercise, but many people can’t run or simply don’t like running.
So how about biking with your dog? If you love to ride your bike and have a dog who loves to run, you may have considered sharing your rides with your best friend. Fresh air, exercise, time spent together having fun and creating your own adventures – it doesn’t get much better than that. And it seems so simple, right? Just you, your dog, a bike, a leash, and the open road, and you’re on your way.
There are several different products that fasten to your bike to allow you to safely lead your dog on a ride. This one is known as the K9 Bike Jogger (formerly known as WalkyDog).
Well, not exactly. But riding a bike with a running dog as a companion can be done safely. You just need to be willing to put in the time for training, invest in the proper equipment, and follow some safety rules to make the activity both fun and safe for you both.
Before You Bike with Your Dog:
If you and your dog are just beginning to exercise regularly or more strenuously, physical exams by your respective doctors are advisable. Safety precautions regarding age, breed, weight, and thickness of coat are the same as those for dogs who are beginning running programs with their running humans.
Check with your vet about when your young puppy’s growth plates are expected to close so you won’t risk injuring your puppy’s development by beginning a structured exercise program too soon. Some medium and large breed dogs are built for running endurance, but others, especially smaller breeds, can only run slowly for shorter distances. And as with all new forms of exercise, beginning slowly and building up duration and distance over time, no matter what condition you and your dog are in, is the safest way to go.
Dog-Leading Equipment for the Cyclist
If you don’t already have a bike, your local bike shop is a good place to start to figure out what type of bike will suit your needs for the terrain you plan to ride on. If you will ride on mainly paved roads, dirt roads, well-mowed fields, and smooth bike trails, then a hybrid bike may be your best choice. If you want the option of riding more rugged bike trails on which you must negotiate rocks, branches, streams, and tree roots, then a mountain bike is in order. You can still ride on more gentle terrain with a mountain bike, however you may want to replace the knobby tires with more slick ones if you plan to spend more time on the road. The bike shop staff can fit you for the proper size bike and make any adjustments necessary for a comfortable fit.
A helmet is the single most important piece of safety equipment for any cyclist at any level, from beginner to elite. Riding without a helmet is an invitation for a head injury, or worse, from a slow-speed tumble to a more serious crash or collision. Feeling the wind in your hair as you ride is not worth the risk of brain injury or death should you hit your head in a fall. And think of your dog’s safety. What exactly will happen to your dog while you lie unconscious after a crash?
Bright colored cycling clothing, a water bottle or two, spare tube, tire pump, tire repair kit, identification, money, and a cell phone are all safety items that you should have with you when you and your partner head out. Further equipment for the human half of the cycling duo has more to do with comfort than safety. Unless your bike comes with a big, cushy saddle, you will appreciate the extra cushioning that padded bicycle shorts will afford. You can also put a more comfortable saddle on your bike, or add a gel-filled seat cover.
Beginners commonly use running shoes or light hiking boots, but cycling shoes designed specifically for the sport are recommended. They are rigid and allow minimal flexion of the foot. If you continue to use a more flexible shoe on your bike, over time you may experience foot problems. Your bike shop staff can recommend the best shoe for your needs.
Biking Equipment for Your Dog
For your dog’s safety, a colorful, reflective collar with ID tags and a reflective vest for high visibility are recommended. But there is one critical piece of equipment you need to invest in to assure that cycling with your dog is as safe as possible.
You may have seen someone riding his bike while holding his dog’s leash in his hand on the handlebars. Or perhaps with the leash tied to the seat post of the bike. Both of these practices are unsafe for you and your dog and may result in tragic consequences.
When you ride while holding a dog’s leash in your hand, the dog can easily pull you off balance causing a crash, or you could collide with your dog if he runs in front of your front tire. If he lags behind, you may be pulled backward, possibly falling and sustaining an injury. Then there’s the possibility of the leash becoming entangled in the wheel spokes, perhaps resulting in serious injury to you both.
Attaching your dog’s leash to the seat post, your center of gravity when you ride, makes pulling a little less of an issue, and is therefore considered safer by some cyclists. While never testing this theory, I know that I wouldn’t have a chance of staying upright if Aero, my 98-pound Rhodesian Ridgeback, were to suddenly lunge for a squirrel while attached by leash to my seat post. And other dangers, like your dog getting too close to your bike and become entangled, are still present.
So how then, can you ride safely together? Fortunately, there are some devices on the market designed to facilitate a safer, more comfortable ride with your canine companion. Bike attachments such as the Springer, K9 Bike Jogger, and BikerDog allow you to keep both hands on your handlebars while keeping your dog at a safe distance from your bike.
The Springer attaches to the frame of your bike and the K9Bike Jogger attaches to the seat post. Both use coil spring shock absorbing mechanisms to reduce the effect of a dog pulling. The BikerDog attaches to the frame of your bike near your rear wheel and uses a flexible, hard plastic post to control pulling.
Each device attaches by a cord or leash to the dog’s collar or harness. For greater safety, use a harness to put less stress on the dog’s neck. The BikerDog comes with a harness, but the WalkyDog and Springer do not (the Springer used to come with a harness, but no longer does). It’s best to use your dog’s own well-fitting harness with all of these. And you can attach two of these devices to your bike if you are interested in biking with two dogs at once (one on each side of the bike).
Many users of these bike attachments are not only happy with the increased safety they provide, but also claim that their dogs stay focused on running beside the bike and attempt to pull less than when walking on leash.
Bike attachments for cycling with your dog install on either side of your bike. Which side your dog runs on is a matter of preference. If your dog is accustomed to walking or running on your left side, this may be the most natural position for training for bicycling. However, there are other considerations, especially if you ride on roads. As a pedestrian, you should walk or run against (facing) traffic. Having your dog on your left side when on foot keeps your dog safely away from passing cars. But moving vehicles, including bikes, are required by law to travel with traffic, on the right side of the road. Your dog is in a more vulnerable position running on the left side of your bike next to traffic.
Initial Bike Training for Dogs
Try to remember your first experiences riding a bike. You may have graduated from a tricycle to a two-wheeler, and just the sight of the two-wheeler may have caused a little anxiety. Getting on it was even scarier. Mom or Dad probably held the bike while you tentatively pedaled for the first time, and it took most of us a couple of sessions before we were ready for Mom or Dad to let go of us. Even when finally pedaling on our own, we had to learn to negotiate turns, slow down, stop, and many more skills and safety rules. At first we could only go for short distances on our bikes, but soon felt we could fly around the world!
To become a good cycling companion, a dog needs to go through a learning curve similar to the one you experienced as a child learning to ride your bike. Your dog should be comfortable around your bike, when you are both stationary and moving. He needs to be familiar with any equipment you use, and learn how to slow down, turn, and stop. And just as you started slowly on your first bike, the time and distance your dog accompanies you on bike rides should increase gradually.
Even if your dog is accustomed to seeing your bike leaning against the wall in your home or garage, it’s probably viewed as just another piece of furniture (that you curiously remove from the house on occasion!). Some dogs are fearful of moving bicycles, so you may need to help your dog become comfortable around your bike.
In your house or garage, start by holding your bike, calling your dog to you, and allowing him to sniff it. Praise him, pet him, and give him a yummy treat to reward his bravery. Lay your bike down, sit on the floor next to your bike, and repeat the exercise. You can even place treats on the tires, the frame, and the pedals, playing a game with your dog while he begins to associate this strange machine with having fun. Next, walk a few steps with your bike and encourage your dog to follow, using praise and treats. Continue to practice indoors, eventually adding your dog’s harness and leash, and moving outdoors only when your dog is comfortable walking alongside you and your bike.
Outdoors, repeat the same walking exercise on-leash. Gradually add in some distractions: walk over a curb, over the lawn, on top of a utility hole cover, over a speed bump, through a puddle. Move the bike so it wobbles, make some turns, walk faster then slower, even jog a little. If your dog shows any signs of apprehension, you have progressed too quickly. You may need to practice over several days before your dog will happily walk alongside you and your bike with distractions. When your dog handles these challenges with ease, teach him some cues for behaviors that you will use to guide him when you ride, such as “Slow,” “Stop,” “Easy,” “Turn,” and “Leave It.”
Beware the “Bike Monster”
If you use a bike attachment to connect your dog to your bicycle, never walk away from your parked bike with your dog still attached to it. If your dog decides to follow you, or lunges after a passing squirrel, the bike will come crashing down. If you’re lucky, it won’t fall on your dog, but at the very least the crash will frighten him. Still attached, your dog will try to run away from the scary machine that crashed next to him. The bike then becomes a mechanical monster, chasing him as he tries to escape.
This could end your dog’s career as your riding partner, unless you are able to desensitize him once again to something that he is now terrified of. So to keep the “bike monster” at bay, always detach your dog from the bike when you step away.
Starting to Ride
Now that your dog walks happily next to you and your bike on-leash, it should be no problem to switch to the cord or leash of a bike attachment such as the Springer, K9 Bike Jogger, or BikerDog. Continue to practice walking with your dog attached to your bike, and if he shows no signs of uneasiness, get on your bike and pedal slowly. If you have gradually accustomed your dog to moving with your bike, he will likely be happy to trot alongside you. Take him for a slow, short excursion, using lots of encouragement, praise, and treats.
Future rides should increase slowly in time and distance, working up to a steady trot. After several rides together, you will begin to develop a feeling for your dog’s natural pace. Your dog may try to keep up until he drops, never showing signs of discomfort, no matter what speed you ride. It is important for you to let him set the pace. After your dog is in good running shape, you can add some brief accelerations, bringing your dog to a gallop. But use a comfortable trotting pace for the bulk of your rides.
The frequency, distance, and duration of your rides with your dog depend on many factors. Age, breed, size, fitness level, coat, running surface, and weather should be considered. Keep your dog well-hydrated, familiarize yourself with the symptoms of heatstroke (see “Running With Your Dog,” Whole Dog Journal February 2009), inspect his paw pads often, check for harness chafing, and watch for signs of lameness or waning enthusiasm. Increasing distance and duration slowly will help prevent soreness and injury, allowing your dog’s respiratory and musculoskeletal systems to adapt to increasing workloads.
Where to Ride a Bike with Dogs
Riding with your dog on roads with traffic is dangerous. While the shoulder of a road may safely accommodate you when riding alone, your width triples when you attach a dog to your bike. You are a much larger target around road curves and for careless drivers. Being honked at constantly by impatient motorists may also scare your dog, and it definitely takes some of the fun out of your ride!
If you live in a rural area with lightly traveled paved or dirt roads, you are in luck, as long as you are still cautious of passing vehicles. But even if you live in a densely populated area, there are safe options for biking with your dog, some closer than you may think. You may need to load your dog and bike into your car for a short drive, but for a safe, fun ride with your best buddy, it’s worth it.
If you live close to a linear park (former railroad beds converted for recreation), you have access to perhaps the best place of all to bike with your dog. Trail surfaces may be dirt, wood chips, soft cinder, or paved, but most continue for miles of flat, scenic riding. Quiet neighborhoods with little traffic, especially on certain days or times, are another good choice.
Taking your dog with you when biking on rugged terrain presents more challenges. It’s difficult and dangerous to negotiate obstacles with your dog attached to your mountain bike, especially on single-track trails. And even the most experienced mountain bikers have occasional falls or crashes. Injury to both rider and dog could result from one of these mishaps.
Allowing your dog to run off-leash, if allowed, on remote mountain bike trails presents its own set of problems. Mountain biking is more physically demanding and it is difficult to keep track of your dog with the increased concentration necessary when riding on rugged trails. Your dog may take off after a bird or animal and get lost or injured in the chase. There’s the danger of snakebites. Being free to drink in streams and puddles can lead to an infection of giardia, an intestinal parasite that can cause serious illness. And it is more difficult for you to determine your dog’s comfortable pace, possibly leading him to exceed his running limits.
The idea of allowing your dog to run freely in the woods with you is better than the reality of biking with your dog off-leash. If you love to mountain bike, consider leaving your biking partner at home on those rides and schedule other rides together in safer locations.
Riding Into the Woods Together?
There are serious risks in running your dog off-leash in the woods while you mountain bike on remote trails. If you feel the benefits outweigh the risks for your particular dog, please consider the following additional safety precautions:
1. Train your dog to respond to cues that will help keep him safe when running loose in the woods while you are supervising from your bike. “Come,” “Over Here,” “Easy,” “Leave It,” and “Drop it” are behaviors that you can teach your dog at home and then practice on-leash while walking in the woods until he performs these behaviors reliably. If your dog ventures off on his own on the trails, he may endanger other cyclists as well as himself.
2. Bike with another cyclist. If your dog is lost or injured, you will have someone to help find him, to go get help, or to help transport your injured dog out of the woods. And if you get injured, there will be someone to help you and your dog.
3. When entering a trail, walk your bike with your dog on leash for a safe distance from the road before releasing him and beginning to ride. Always have your dog‘s leash available. You never know when you‘ll need it.
4. Outfit your dog with a bright neon reflective vest, or flashing light that attaches to your dog’s collar. Not only is it easier for you to spot your dog while riding, it distinguishes your dog as a pet to other cyclists, trail runners, or hikers, as opposed to a wild animal they may fear. And if your dog is lost and the sun sets, a flashing light may save his life.
5. Use a breakaway collar. which could prevent serious injury (or even death) if your dog’s collar snags on something when running. If this is a collar that you only use for your mountain biking excursions, make sure it has your dog’s ID attached. All dogs should carry an implanted microchip ID or tattooed ID as a backup.
6. Attach a bell to your dog’s collar – that is, one that’s loud enough to be heard at a reasonable distance. This will give you an auditory indicator of his whereabouts as you ride – as well as warn wild animals that your dog is in the area. Or try one of the CPS pet tracking devices available, so you can track your dog for a far greater distance.
7. Hydrate your dog regularly on your ride, and train him not to drink from puddles and streams to avoid an infection of giardia, an intestinal parasite that may cause serious illness.
8. Take a pet first aid/CPR course. It’s a great idea for all dog owners, but even more so for owners of dogs engaging in higher risk activities.
9. Carry a small first aid kit, with your other safety items, in your saddle pack (which attaches to your seat post under the rear of your saddle), in case your dog is injured and you are far from the trailhead. Stock your kit with antiseptic wipes, antibiotic ointment, cotton pads, vet wrap (to bandage a laceration, for a tourniquet, or to splint a broken bone), and some Rescue Remedy for calming your stressed dog. Your dog’s leash can be used to muzzle your injured dog if needed.
10. Inspect your dog for cuts, scrapes, and ticks after any outing in the woods. Cuts and scrapes may become infected if not treated. Even if you use a tick preventative and your dog is vaccinated for Lyme’s disease, there are no guarantees when it comes to these nasty critters feasting on your dog and possibly causing disease.
Bicycling for Non-Athletes
You don’t have to deprive yourself of your buddy’s company on your rides if your dog is a toy breed, has special needs, or is an older dog and no longer able to run.
There are all sorts of products available to help your dog enjoy accompanying you on your bike trips, including pet bike baskets, trailers, and sidecars; look on the Internet or ask the folks at your local independent pet supply store or bike shop. Accessories available include seat belts, dog helmets, and even goggles.
Assess the safety of any of these products before using them with your beloved companion – and be realistic about your dog’s temperament, too. I’ve seen dogs who are electric with delight in joining their owners for a ride in a pet trailer, and I’ve seen others who have the same look of terror on their faces that I must have when riding on a roller coaster!
That said, most dogs can learn to enjoy your rides with training. Gradual exposure to your bike and trailer, creating a positive association with being in the trailer using lots of treats and praise, and slowly exposing your dog to movement in the trailer increase your chances of a successful outcome.
Sometimes, the safety precautions that we take to protect both humans and our companion animals may seem so cumbersome that they take all the fun out of some of our activities. But when it comes to the health and welfare of your dog when accompanying you on bike rides, taking the appropriate safety measures can potentially save your dog’s life, as well as your own. Training, using proper equipment, and adhering to sensible exercise practices actually increase your enjoyment of the sport. “Fun” is knowing that you are keeping your dog as safe as possible while sharing your rides together. Enjoy!
1. Have a holistic veterinarian examine your dog after any injury debilitates your dog. More damage than meets the eye could have occurred, requiring surgery or other immediate treatment.
2. Watch your dog during your acupressure session. If he grows uncomfortable, stop holding that point and move on to the next point, or offer another session another day.
3. Concentrate on your “healing intention” for your dog while you work. Empty your mind of other distractions.
Maintaining a well-rounded training regime and providing incremental warm-up exercise before strenuous exercise are an important part of preventing injuries. But with any sport, the dog’s enthusiasm and natural drive can lead to incidental and repetitive injuries, despite our best prevention efforts. That’s why it’s best to formulate an approach to dealing with our dog’s injuries, before they happen.
With an injury that is severe and/or debilitating, a holistic veterinarian should be consulted immediately to diagnose the extent of the damage and prescribe treatment. Soft tissue injuries in particular can be deceiving, so have a veterinarian check your dog to be sure that no other issues or further tissue damage occurs. After the holistic vet has seen your dog and made the necessary recommendations or if the injury is a simple bruise or superficial abrasion, you can help expedite the healing process. Only the animal’s body can heal itself – but you can play a role in helping to create the physical “environment” in which healing can take place in a balanced, healthy manner.
Healing with Acupressure
Acupressure, like acupuncture, is based on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) concepts that have helped heal animals and humans alike for more than 3,000 years. The basic principle underlying the healing process is that vital substances of the body nourish the body while moving harmoniously throughout the body. Two of the vital substances are chi (or qi), which is life-promoting energy, and blood, a nutrient-rich body fluid. In TCM, blood includes both the blood as identified in conventional medicine and other body fluids, such as synovial fluids in the joints or the nutrient-rich fluid within the spinal column.
Any injury can cause disruption in the flow of chi and blood. Using acupressure points, also called “acupoints,” you can help re-establish the flow of chi and blood through an injured area thus creating the healing environment. The movement of chi and blood through the damaged tissue helps distribute the nutrients the body needs to heal quickly and well.
“Surrounding the Dragon”
“Surrounding the Dragon” is an acupoint selection technique that is specifically for enhancing the flow of chi and blood to and through a particular location on the body. This technique is used often as an effective tool for tendon and ligament joint injuries as well as for chronic issues such as arthritis and tendonitis.
The “Dragon” is the painful, raging injury, arthritic joint, or site of scar tissue formation, which blocks the flow of chi and blood. Applying gentle pressure to specific acupoints surrounding the “offended” area stimulates the flow of the healing chi and blood while removing toxins and nourishing the tissues.
When Surrounding the Dragon, we stimulate acupoints located near – but not too close to – the insulted area because you do not want to “spank the crying baby.” This phrase is used in Chinese medicine to mean that you do not want to cause any further hurt when the area is already painful.
Acupoints and Technique
The photos below provide acupressure point combinations that address injuries or issues related to the shoulder and hip. All of the acupoints identified are considered “local” points and directly address bringing chi and blood to the identified joint.
Surrounding the Dragon can bring more chi and blood to the afflicted area whether it is an injury, scarring, or a chronic problem. These acupoint combinations can support the healing process, help reduce pain, and bring more flexibility to the limb. It’s an additional healing tool you can use when your dog suffers from a knock, repetitive injury, or twist, and you have followed your veterinarian’s recommendations.
Points that surround the injured area can be stimulated simultaneously or in succession, one acupoint at a time. By stimulating a point, we simply mean applying gentle pressure to the point with the soft, fleshy portion of the tip of your finger and thumb.
Gently place your fingers on the acupoints shown in the photos below, while holding your intentions to relieve the dog’s discomfort in the forefront of your mind. You do not have to apply much pressure since this is energetic work, not manipulation of tissue. Continue your contact with the point while counting slowly to 30, or until the dog moves away or demonstrates some form of release. Energetic releases can include yawning, licking his lips, stretching, passing gas, demonstrating the need to move, or even falling asleep.
Remember to repeat this procedure on both sides of the dog. If the dog gives any indication of pain, stop immediately and work the points on the other side of the dog. If the dog continues to be uncomfortable, try again at a later date when the dog is not as sensitive.
Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of animal acupressure texts, including The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide To Canine Acupressure; and Acu-Cat: A Guide to Feline Acupressure.
Otto has gotten short shrift lately, poor guy. My husband and I had the brilliant idea of undertaking a minor home remodeling project over the holidays – just the bathroom! As is often the case with all-consuming home improvement projects, the dog was left to his own devices more than he should have been for a number of weeks.
Months ago, that would have been a recipe for disaster; Otto would have excavated half the yard and chewed up everything he could have gotten his mouth on. But he must be growing up; even after a few weeks of minor neglect, the only thing he chewed up was one of my husband’s high-top leather work boots. Amazing, considering the number of tools and wood and paintbrushes left lying around.
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He amused himself largely with a new obsession: running along our back fence with our neighbor’s two-year-old German Shepherd Dog, Schotzie. Our lot is about 80 feet wide, and both dogs share a mostly unimpeded path along that entire boundary, with just an ivy-covered five-foot-high chain-link fence between them. They are both young, active, and bored (the neighbors have a new baby). So, up and down they go, thundering through the mud, whining with frustration and excitement. It could be worse; they could be fence-fighting and barking (and maybe, if we remodeled the entire house, it would advance to this). But they seem to enjoy each other. And at least they are both getting exercise!
I’ve tried to talk Schotzie’s owners into letting her come over to play with Otto – and I was successful exactly twice – but they are worried about her “hurting” him. Apparently, on the few occasions when they have taken her someplace where there were other dogs, she “attacked” another dog. She played wonderfully with Otto. But I believe their stories; from what I can observe as a work-at-home neighbor, they hardly ever take her anywhere and she is getting less and less socialized.
It’s frustrating, because I’ve seen this phenomenon several times; in fact, it seems like every time I’ve seen a busy family get a young, big, active dog who hardly ever gets out, the dog’s behavior with other dogs gets worse and worse until they feel they can’t safely take the dog anywhere.
I’ve tried to tactfully describe this syndrome and its possible solutions to Schotzie’s people. They are a young educated couple, and very nice. The mom listens, but the dad appears to have his own strong ideas about dogs and dog training, and I can tell he has to put some effort into politely not-hearing what I have offered.
I get it. Few of us enjoy being subjected to unsolicited advice about our dogs – it’s like having some stranger tell you how you should deal with your toddler when he’s acting out in the supermarket. How likely is it that you could say something like, “Oh, okay! Thanks! I never thought of that!” On the other hand, I can clearly see the impending train wreck that often – usually – results from the social isolation of a large, high-drive dog. So, I’m trying to strike just the right note – respectful, friendly – while casually giving them information to consider.
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Could be the start of a beautiful friendship A few months ago, Otto and I were just coming in from a bike ride when we saw the neighbors walking Schotzie. The mom had the baby in a front pack; the dad had his hands full with Schotzie, who had recognized her friend (Otto) and was pulling hard to get to him, despite her prong collar. I raced to put Otto and my bike through my front gate, and called to them. “Oh! Hi! Hi Schotzie! Can she come and play? Please?” As the dad looked sort of unconvinced (and Schotzie was going crazy), I pressed on, exaggerating, “Gosh, Otto has been so full of beans, and I’ve tried getting him tired with a bike ride, but he’s just such a handful!” He relented, though he worried out loud, as he was leading Schotzie in the gate as I held Otto back, “I just hope she’s okay. She can be pretty rough!”
“I’m not worried about Otto at all,” I reassured him. And I wasn’t. Otto has really terrific canine language and play skills; I’ve never seen him lose his cool with other dogs. If he gets overwhelmed or bullied, he’ll defend himself with a momentary growl and a snap, but immediately shakes it off and looks for someone else to play with. I’m not taking credit for this; he came equipped with a strong play drive! (Although I do work actively to preserve and protect this trait, by giving him lots of social time with other nice dogs.)
The second the dogs were turned loose, they took off across the yard like meteors. Otto loves being chased, and he had the home field advantage, knowing his yard intimately. Schotzie’s owners and I laughed and thoroughly enjoyed watching the two big dogs joyfully race and leap and wrestle. “Oh, we’ve got to do this again!” I enthused. “This is so great! Look at how happy they are! And they will both really sleep tonight! Thanks so much!”
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A few days later, I heard the mom calling to Schotzie, as our two dogs once again ran the fenceline. “Hi there!” I called over the fence. “Hey! Can Schotzie come over and play again?” “Sure!” she called back. “That would be great! I’ll bring her over.” The two dogs had even more fun playing this time. I opened my side gates, so they could race from the front yard to the back, and run loops around the house, which they did with delight. I took dozens of pictures of them as they played. They spent about an hour running and wrestling and playing with Otto’s toys.
I was just putting Schotzie’s leash on to take her home when the mom walked up to the front gate to get her. “They had so much fun!” I told her. “Any time you want to tire her out, give me a call; they are really great together! And, oh! Here is an article about why dog play is so good for them.” And I gave her a copy of an issue of WDJ that contains Pat Miller’s brilliant article on the importance of purposeful socialization (“Plays Well With Others,” March 2000).
Was that too pushy? I didn’t think so, but they haven’t taken me up on any further “play date” invitations. Once, while talking to the mom about neighborhood stuff, I asked again if Schotzie could come over and play, and she said, “I’ll have to ask my husband first. We took Schotzie to a picnic recently, and she bit this other dog really badly, and now he’s really concerned about taking her places.”
Argh! I don’t know why it’s so hard to understand that dogs will only get worse without opportunities to socialize, whether they are truly aggressive or, more likely, fear-aggressive. Looking through all the pictures of our two dogs playing, Schotzie’s body language looks anything but aggressive. I suspect she’s had so little experience socializing that she gets scared and overwhelmed and “attacks” out of fear. She didn’t “attack” Otto, perhaps, because she was familiar with him (albeit through the fence) and because he puts out such clearly playful signals; he seems to lack any tendency to bully other dogs.
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Well, at least they have the fenceline. Which, as I said, does actually help tire Otto out, especially when he’s not getting enough walks and hikes.
A trip to town At the height of the holiday season, we took a few days off from our remodeling project and spent some time with relatives back in the Bay Area. Brian really wanted to leave Otto in Oroville, and have a pet sitter watch over him. But I couldn’t wait for the opportunity to bring Otto to some of my favorite Bay Area doggie hot spots, like the trails in the East Bay Regional Parks, and the dog parks in Alameda and at Point Isabel in Albany. And I really wanted some of my Bay Area friends to get to meet him!
We had a blast! Otto and I took one or two long walks every day, and he got to enjoy some of the best the Bay Area offers a dog, including visits to pet supply stores that offer cookies to canine visitors.
The only part of his “Christmas vacation” that he didn’t really enjoy was the very first part – where I took our often-outdoors dog to a do-it-yourself dog wash, to get him ready for a week of apartment living. He forgave me when I let him pick out a new stuffed squeaky toy to carry out of the store. I also bought him some rawhide chews; I found a place that sells the nicest rawhide chews I’ve ever seen: a roll made from a single “sheet” of extremely thick hide, made by Wholesome Hide. (I’ll be reviewing rawhide chews in the next issue; look for more on what makes a chew “the best rawhide I’ve ever seen” in April.) I didn’t want him chewing up my friends’ and relatives’ stuff while a guest in their homes.
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As it turned out, he behaved himself like a prince. He was probably too tired to get into too much trouble! He did rearrange many of the shoes in the house where we were staying, when we left him for the longest time. It was Christmas day, and we had dinner at the home of my pet-allergic brother-in-law and his pet-allergic wife. When we came home, we found 12 or 13 shoes, belonging to every member of the household, piled neatly by the front door along with a rawhide.
It was so neat, in fact, that I actually didn’t notice it at first; lots of people leave shoes by their front doors. But when I found one of my sneakers on the pillow of the bed that I had been sleeping in, I investigated further. That’s when I found the other sneaker by the front door, along with lots of other shoes, in pairs and singles. Fortunately, he didn’t chew a single one of them, just carried them about. Given the lack of damage, it was sort of fun, returning everyone’s shoes to their proper places.
The only thing about having Otto “in town” that disappointed me was discovering that we really need to practice walking on-leash more. In Oroville, I only have his leash on for the few blocks that it takes to get to the trailhead where I can walk him off-leash. We work on his leash-walking manners on the way to the trail. On the way home, tired, he’s always perfect on the leash, and though I reward him for this, it’s hardly necessary!
During our stay in the Bay Area, with the exception of his time in a dog park or on our two East Bay Regional Park hikes, he had to be on leash. Whether it was due to anxiety over a new setting, a lack of daily free time in a backyard, or just the sheer number of miles we walked on-leash, he pulled a lot more than he does at home. I carried treats with me, and tried to pay attention and reinforce him when he was walking quietly by my side. But I was walking with friends I hadn’t seen for a while, and talking, and not focusing exclusively on Otto. It’s time to go back to class, I guess.
Socializing with city dogs At least once a week, I take Otto to a dog-park-like setting in the nearby town of Chico, California. It’s actually a genetic resource and conservation center for the Mendocino National Forest; it’s where they grow trees that produce the seeds used to replant forests. The best part is that it’s 200 fenced acres where people are allowed to walk their dogs off-leash. There is even a creek that runs through the middle of it, and dogs are welcome to splash through and swim in it. It’s awesome.
Many area dog owners take their dogs there for exercise and socialization, but it lacks the insular, intense feel that some crowded, urban dog parks can have. Mostly, dog owners walk a trail on the perimeter of the property. When you encounter dogs and people going the other way, or you pass somebody, it’s customary to allow the dogs to greet and play for a few minutes, and then walk on. Every so often, you meet another dog with the exact same play style and interest in playing that your dog does, and you might linger with them a good bit longer, or even walk the perimeter with them. It’s very relaxed and spacious – and I’ve noticed that the environment really promotes relaxed and happy dogs. I’ve never seen a dog fight there, or heard a dog owner screaming at another dog owner.
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I wish I could say the same for urban dog parks. I’ve been there and seen that before; Otto hadn’t, and he was a bit overwhelmed. On his first day at a two-acre park, a huge black dog (a Puli-mix, maybe?) repeatedly rushed him in a fairly intense manner, barking loudly, and he wouldn’t stop even when Otto dodged and bowed playfully. He only stopped when Otto ran 30 yards away or so.
Otto looked a bit mystified, but shook it off to find other playmates. In five trips to that park, though, he only found one dog that he really got into playing with, a young Husky female who was just as into chasing and bouncing games as he was. Many of the dogs were obsessed with fetching and couldn’t be bothered, or were older and grumpy. And a few were bullies! Like the big black dog, they seemed intent on rushing over to new dogs and inflicting their stamp of dominance on them. Otto would kind of hold his ground, neither rolling over submissively nor giving back any resistance, but as soon as he was “released,” or another dog approached to distract the bully, he’d hightail it for someplace else.
He had the same reaction at another, larger (but if anything, even more densely populated) dog park, when he heard a dog owner screaming at another dog owner after a bit of a scuffle involving half a dozen dogs. He had rushed toward the scuffle, getting there just as it broke up, and then looked plain astonished when the people started yelling at each other. Whoa! He gave them the same look he had given the big black dog and ran back toward me. I probably had the same expression on my face! Yikes! Let’s get out of here!
Seriously, I kept these urban dog park trips short; I could see they were a bit overstimulating after 20 minutes or so. Otto’s eyes would get a glazed look, and his tongue would look pasty and dry, even after drinking. He’d still be running around, but not in a joyous, bouncy way; he looked kind of hunted and distracted, even if no dog was chasing him. That was my signal to call him back and leave the park.
The most fun Otto had “on vacation” was during the two off-leash hikes we took with my friend Sandi Thompson (a Berkeley-based trainer who often models for our training articles) and her dog, Turtle (that’s them on pages 3-5). Turtle looks like a Mini-Me of Otto, a smaller, blonder, nimbler terrier-mix with an oversized ego and sense of humor. Otto found her fascinating, if a bit challenging. I’ll leave you with photos of their playtime together. His dismayed expression in the last one makes me laugh out loud every time I see it!
Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ. She and her husband adopted Otto from a shelter on June 13, 2008.
1. When you see or hear about an apparently starved (or extremely thin) dog, please let the owner know about EPI. Few people know that it can affect any breed.
2. If your dog’s digestion is poor, with frequent diarrhea, consider having him tested for EPI. Visible symptoms of the disease may not appear until 80 to 95 percent of the pancreas has atrophied. Early diagnosis and treatment improve his prospects.
Kanis Fitzhugh, a member of the Almost Home organization, knew she had to rescue Pandy, an extremely thin and seemingly vicious four-year-old Dachshund. Pandy had been relinquished to a shelter in Orange County (California), who turned her over to Southern California Dachshund Rescue. Deemed people- and animal-aggressive, Pandy appeared to have been starved, and weighed just 13 pounds. Fitzhugh thought the dog deserved a break, and brought Pandy home in May 2007.
During the first couple of weeks in her new home, Pandy managed to pull a chicken down from the counter and proceeded to eat the entire bird, including bones, plastic tray, and grocery bag, in less than the 10 minutes that Fitzhugh was out of the room. Pandy was rushed to the vet and emergency surgery was performed, as the bones had ruptured her stomach lining in three places. Luckily, she survived.
Pandy’s voracious appetite, large voluminous stools, and aggressive disposition were all caused by a medical condition called exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI). With Fitzhugh’s loving care, including enzyme supplements and a change of diet, Pandy stabilized. Within a year, Pandy had transformed into a beautiful, funny, 26-pound Dachshund who gets along great with all the human and animal members in the Fitzhugh household.
What is Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency?
Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency, or EPI, also referred to as Pancreatic Hypoplasia or Pancreatic Acinar Atrophy (PAA), is a disease of maldigestion and malabsorption, which when left untreated eventually leads to starvation. One of the major difficulties with this disease is in the prompt and accurate diagnosis. Astonishingly, visible symptoms may not appear until 80 to 95 percent of the pancreas has atrophied.
There are two primary functions of the pancreas:
(1) Endocrine cells produce and secrete hormones, insulin, and glucagons.
(2) Exocrine cells produce and secrete digestive enzymes.
EPI is the inability of the pancreas to secrete digestive enzymes: amylase to digest starches, lipases to digest fats, and proteases to digest protein. Without a steady supply of these enzymes to help break down and absorb nutrients, the body starves. When EPI is undiagnosed and left untreated, the entire body is deprived of the nutrients needed for growth, renewal, and maintenance. In time, the body becomes so compromised that the dog either starves to death or dies of inevitable organ failure.
Incomplete digestion causes the continual presence of copious amounts of fermenting food in the small intestine. This can lead to a secondary condition that is common in many EPI dogs, called SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth). If an EPI dog has a lot of belly grumbling/noises, gas, diarrhea, and sometimes vomiting, she most likely has SIBO.
The condition occurs when the “bad” bacteria that is feeding on the fermenting food overpopulates the tissue lining the small intestine, further impairing the proper absorption of vital nutrients and depleting the body’s store of vitamin B12. Treatment of SIBO includes a course of antibiotics, to eliminate the bad bacteria. Treatment may also include supplemental cobalamin (B12) injections that help reestablish friendly bacteria colonies, which in turn helps inhibit the malabsorption.
Severity of the disease may vary, making it even more difficult to diagnose. EPI can be subclinical (no recognizable symptoms) for many months, sometimes even years, before it worsens and becomes noticeable. The symptoms can be exacerbated by physical or emotional stress, change of food or routine, and/or environmental factors. The most common symptoms include:
– Gradual wasting away despite a voracious appetite.
– Eliminating more frequently with voluminous yellowish or grayish soft “cow patty” stools.
– Coprophagia (dog eats his own stools) and/or pica (dog eats other inappropriate substances).
– Increased rumbling sounds from the abdomen, and passing increased amounts of gas.
– Intermittent watery diarrhea or vomiting.
Due to the lack of absorbed nutrients, the body starves: muscle mass wastes away, and bones may also be affected. An EPI dog’s teeth may be slightly smaller, and older EPI dogs appear to have a higher incidence of hip dysplasia. Every part of the body is at risk, even the nervous system (including the brain), which in turn wreaks havoc with the dog’s temperament. Some EPI dogs exhibit increased anxiety, becoming fearful of other dogs, people, and strange objects.
With hunger as an overwhelming force, many dogs act almost feral. Desperately seeking vital nutrition, many ingest inappropriate items, but nothing gets absorbed. As the disease progresses, the deterioration becomes quite rapid. Some dogs lose interest in any activities, preferring to just lie down or hide somewhere. Many owners of EPI dogs become increasingly frustrated, as they feed more than normal amounts and yet their dogs continue to waste away before their eyes.
Since chronic loose stools are usually the first visible symptom in an EPI dog, most vets will prescribe an antibiotic to destroy what they suspect to be harmful intestinal bacteria. Owners are happy because the problem appears to go away, at least for a while. No one has any reason to investigate further, until the loose stools return or the dog starts losing weight, and then the merry-go-round cycle begins. Vet visits become numerous and costly, and one possible diagnosis after another is suggested. Expenses may include testing (and retesting) for giardia, coccidiosis, and other parasitic diseases; x-rays; ultrasound; MRI; antibiotics; and even surgery.
EPI Testing for Dogs
Until recently, EPI was most prevalent in German Shepherd Dogs. For this reason, a vet may fail to consider EPI as a possible diagnosis in other breeds and not pursue EPI testing: a trypsin-like immunoreactivity (TLI) blood test. TLI measures the dog’s ability to produce digestive enzymes. The test is done following a fast of 12 to 15 hours, and costs about $100.
Although other laboratories can run the TLI test, most blood samples are analyzed at Texas A&M University. The lab recently revised its reference ranges: values below 2.5 are now considered diagnostic for EPI. Results between 3.5 and 5.7 may reflect subclinical pancreatic disease that may ultimately lead to EPI. When values are between 2.5 and 3.5 µg/L, Texas A&M recommends repeating the TLI test after one month, paying particular attention to the fast before the blood sample is collected.
Even when a dog tests positive for EPI, it is important to retest TLI after the dog stabilizes following treatment. For example, chronic inflammation can put such a strain on the pancreas that the production of digestive enzymes ceases or is greatly reduced. Consequently, when the TLI blood test is analyzed, it accurately depicts lack of enzyme production, even though the dog may not actually have EPI. In this case, it is important for the dog to be treated with pancreatic enzymes until his condition is stable. Enzyme treatment breaks down the food, allowing the stressed albeit non-EPI pancreas to recuperate and, in time, start producing the enzymes needed to digest foods.
Dorsie Kovacs, DVM, of Monson Small Animal Clinic in Monson, Massachusetts, has seen some young dogs with false-positive EPI readings. Even when they display the lighter-colored “cow patty” stools, something other than EPI may be the cause. Sometimes a food allergy or an overabundance of bad bacteria has irritated or inflamed the pancreas, temporarily inhibiting enzyme production. In these situations, says Dr. Kovacs, it’s important to put the dog on a pancreatic enzyme supplement for two months, allowing the stressed pancreas to heal. The dog should then be retested to either confirm or rule out EPI.
In addition, Dr. Kovacs says, “It is also important to introduce good gut flora (bacteria) by adding yogurt, green tripe, or supplements such as Digest-All Plus (a blend of plant enzymes and probiotics). Good gut flora should continue to be maintained with supplements even after the inflamed or irritated pancreas has healed.” Dr. Kovacs has also noticed that some dogs with food allergies (especially dogs who are fed kibble) show rapid improvement when their diets are switched to raw or canned food. Raw meats contain natural enzymes, and fresh vegetables support the growth of good bacteria in the dog’s gut.
Managing a Dog’s EPI
Most dogs with EPI can be successfully treated and regulated, although customizing the dog’s diet and supplements may involve much trial and error.
Enzyme supplementation is the first step in managing EPI. The dog will need pancreatic enzymes incubated on every piece of food ingested for the remainder of his or her life. The best results are usually obtained with freeze-dried, powdered porcine enzymes rather than plant enzymes or enzyme pills. Plant enzymes and enzymes in a pill form do work for some, though with enzyme supplements, as with diet, much is dependent on the individual EPI dog. Some of the most widely used prescription enzyme supplements are Viokase, Epizyme, Panakare Plus, Pancrease-V, and Pancrezyme. Bio Case V is a non-prescription generic equivalent.
Enzyme potency is measured in USP units. Prescription enzyme powders range from 56,800 to 71,400 units of lipase; 280,000 to 434,000 units of protease; and 280,000 to 495,000 units of amylase per teaspoon.
Pancreatic enzymes are also available as generic pancreatin. Strengths of 6×10, 8×10, etc., indicate that the dosage is concentrated. Thus, a level teaspoon of pancreatin 6×10 contains 33,600 units of lipase and 420,000 units of protease and amylase, comparable to prescription enzyme products.
Some EPI dogs have allergies and cannot tolerate the ingredients in the most common enzyme supplements. Those owners learn to develop alternative methods such as using plant enzymes, or a different source of pancreatic enzymes such as beef-based (rather than porcine-based). Raw beef, pork, or lamb pancreas can also be used. One to three ounces of raw chopped pancreas can replace one teaspoon of pancreatic extract.
The starting dosage of prescription enzymes is usually one level teaspoon of powdered enzymes per cup of food. As time goes on and a dog stabilizes, many owners find that they can reduce the amount of enzymes administered with each meal, sometimes to just ½ teaspoon, although some EPI dogs require an increased dosage of enzymes in their senior years.
Enzymes need to be incubated, meaning that you add them to moistened food prior to feeding, letting them sit on the food at room temperature for at least 20 minutes. Some owners find that incubation up to an hour or more works even better. Too often, EPI owners are instructed that enzyme incubation is not necessary; however, some dogs will develop blisters or sores in their mouths from the enzymes when they are not first incubated on the food.
How do you judge what works best for your dog? When dealing with EPI, everything is gauged by the dog’s stool quality. EPI dog owners are always on “poop-patrol.” The goal is to obtain normal looking, chocolate brown, well-formed stools. When your dog produces something other than normal poop, it indicates she is not properly digesting her food. Sometimes longer enzyme incubation helps. Other times using more or less enzymes (since too little or too much enzymes can both cause diarrhea), changing the diet, treating a flare-up of SIBO, or starting a regimen of B12 shots solves the problem. Make only one change at a time. It is advisable to keep a daily journal as it may help you to identify the cause of a flare up or setback.
Prescription enzyme supplements can be very expensive. A $5,000 per year price tag for enzymes is not uncommon for a large dog – but don’t panic! There are several ways to reduce this cost. My 40-pound Spanish Water Dog has the dubious honor of being the first of her breed ever to be positively diagnosed with EPI. When the TLI results came in, I felt like my world came crashing down. Izzy is my once-in-a-lifetime companion, and was very sick. Using information my vet gave me, I estimated that the enzymes she needed were going to cost me $1,200 a year. She was just over a year old at the time, with an expected life span of 13 to 15 years. Eeek!
Today those enzymes cost me a mere $200 a year. How? I joined an EPI support group and learned what others do to better manage the ongoing care of their EPI dogs. I buy enzymes from an EPI enzyme co-op that purchases enzymes in bulk and passes the savings on to owners who have a veterinarian-confirmed EPI dog. The savings from these bulk purchases can be quite substantial. (For both groups, see “Resources for Products Mentioned in this Article,” page 22.) Today, Izzy is a plump, active, happy dog who gives me more joy than any dog I’ve had in my 55 years. I would have paid whatever it cost to help her, but not everyone has this option.
Another solution that can dramatically save money is to obtain raw beef, pork, or lamb pancreas. Ask your butcher if he can get fresh pancreas, or check with meat inspectors in your state to find out if and where you can obtain fresh pancreas. A letter from your vet explaining why you need fresh pancreas may allow you to purchase it from a slaughterhouse. Fresh beef pancreas can also be ordered from suppliers such as Hare Today and Greentripe.com.
The suggested dosage of raw pancreas is 3 to 4 ounces per 44 pounds of the dog’s weight daily. The pancreas can be blended or finely chopped, then frozen into either cubes in an ice tray or “calculated by the dog’s weight” single meal amounts in Ziploc bags. Raw pancreas can be frozen for several months without losing potency. When ready to use, thaw and serve the raw pancreas with the dog’s food.
A very important factor about enzymes – whether using raw pancreas, powdered pancreatic enzymes, or pills – is that all digestive enzymes work best at body temperature. Cold inhibits the enzymatic action while heat destroys it. Never cook, mix with very hot water, or microwave raw pancreas or supplemental enzymes.
Antibiotics are the next line of defense, in order to combat SIBO (bad bacteria growth that overtakes the growth of good bacteria), the secondary condition that frequently accompanies EPI. Tylosin (Tylan) or metronidazole (Flagyl) are the most commonly prescribed antibiotics, and they are usually given for 30 days. Some dogs have trouble with metronidazole due to possible side effects; in that case, Tylan is given. Be warned: Tylan is bitter-tasting, and many dogs refuse to eat their meals when it’s added. There are tricks to deal with this. Some put the Tylan powder in gelatin capsules; I camouflage it for my dog by inserting the required dose in a small chunk of cream cheese. Not all EPI dogs can tolerate dairy, so the camouflage method should depend on the individual dog’s tolerance.
B12 (cobalamin) injections are needed if the dog has very low serum cobalamin. A blood test is required to determine this, costs about $31, and is best done simultaneously with the TLI test. Many EPI dogs cannot replenish B12 levels on their own, so B12 injections are used. B12-complex formulas are not recommended since they contain much lower concentrations of cobalamin and appear to cause pain at the injection sites. Generic formulations of cobalamin (B12) are acceptable.
The recommended cobalamin dosage is calculated according to the dog’s weight and may be found on Texas A&M University website (see page 22). Your vet can show you how to give your dog subcutaneous (beneath the skin) B12 injections. What seems to work best are weekly injections for the first six weeks, then biweekly (every other week) injections for the next six weeks, and finally monthly B12 injections.
Feeding Dogs with EPI
A common saying among those whose dogs have EPI is, “If you’ve met one EPI dog, then you have met just one EPI dog.” Even with pancreatic enzyme supplements, much of the health and well-being of each EPI dog depends on his diet. Sometimes all that’s needed are supplemental enzymes and the standard recommended dietary modifications: no more that 4 percent fiber and no more than 12 percent fat (on a dry matter basis).
Sometimes it’s much more complicated! Some dogs can tolerate much more fat. My dog, Izzy, for example, does extremely well on grain-free kibble with 22 percent fat content, well above the 12 percent range. Other dogs cannot tolerate even as little as 12 percent fat. The same applies to the fiber content. Some EPI dogs have unrelated food allergies, further limiting their diet.
Many dogs with EPI thrive on raw diets and some owners find that a raw diet is the only one that works for their dogs. Conversely, other EPI dogs cannot tolerate raw diets. Some owners successfully feed grain-free kibble, some make home-cooked meals for their dog, while others feed a combination of commercial and homemade. When adding to or adjusting a diet, feed the dog tiny chunks of raw carrot with the diet. These carrot pieces will present themselves in the stools (for better or worse) of that meal’s elimination. This helps you understand which foods/vitamins, etc., work well together and which don’t.
Recommendations keep evolving and changing with new research, as well as the feedback from networks of owners of EPI dogs. A recent change in feeding recommendations concerns dietary fat. Multiple studies from the past decade indicated that a fat-restricted diet is of no benefit whatsoever to the EPI dog. A 2003 paper by Edward J. Hall, of the University of Bristol in England, states that there is experimental evidence to show that the percentage fat absorption increases with the percentage of fat that is fed. This may explain why some EPI dogs can tolerate higher concentrations of fat. For those dogs who cannot tolerate more than 12 percent fat, this may mean that the fat content needs to be increased very gradually, or perhaps that certain types of fat may be tolerated better than others. Much more research is needed to answer these questions.
Veterinarians usually recommend an initial diet of a prescription or veterinary food, such as Hill’s Prescription Diet w/d, i/d, or z/d Ultra Allergen-Free; Royal Canin’s Veterinary Diet Canine Hypoallergenic Diet or Digestive Low Fat Diet.
Prescription diets that are made with hydrolized ingredients (carbohydrates and proteins that have been chemically broken down into minute particles for better absorption in the small intestine, leading to more complete digestion, better/faster weight gain, and firmer stools) appear to work for many EPI dogs.
However, these diets are usually starch-based (often almost 60 percent carbohydrates on a dry matter basis); the digestive system of a dog is designed more for fats and protein than for starches, which may be why many EPI dog owners achieve better results by reserving prescription diets for short-term use and feeding other diets over the long haul.
The best results for managing EPI requires combining veterinarian advice with the experience of actual EPI dog owners. Too many times, managing EPI can be a real roller coaster ride! For example, initial research studies showed that supplemental enzyme powders needed to incubate on the food. Additional research studies then suggested that food incubation with enzymes was no longer necessary. Consequently, some EPI dogs developed mouth sores, so owners are again being advised to let the enzymes incubate to prevent this side effect. Until the causes and effects of this disease are better understood, it will continue to be managed via trial and error.
Enzymes should be mixed with about one to two ounces of room-temperature water per teaspoon of enzymes, then added to the food and allowed to incubate for 20 minutes or more. A couple of tablespoons of room temperature kefir or yogurt (or some other “sauce”) may be used instead of water to mix the enzymes. Once an EPI dog is stable, some owners find that they can “cheat” and give their dog a smidgeon of a treat without any enzymes on it. Others find the least little crumb ingested without enzymes will cause a flare-up.
If possible, feed two to four meals a day, taking into consideration whether the dog’s condition has stabilized and whether the family’s schedule can accommodate multiple feedings. Feeding smaller, more frequent meals puts less stress on the EPI dog’s digestive system.
At first calculation, many owners of EPI dogs wonder if they can sustain the added expense of all these “special foods” in addition to the enzymes. It may take many attempts to find just the right diet for a dog with EPI that is also affordable by the owner, but it can be done. Following are some suggestions and techniques that EPI dog owners have successfully used.
– Kibble or canned: Many EPI owners who feed commercial kibble or canned dog food have found more success when feeding a grain-free product. Much depends on the individual dog.
When feeding kibble, many owners let the food and enzymes incubate until the food has an oatmeal-like consistency. Some even grind the kibble to allow for more surface contact with the enzymes. Some also add a teaspoon of pumpkin or sweet potato, which may help firm stools and reduce coprophagia; plus, both ingredients are packed with vitamins C and D. Sweet potato is also an excellent source of vitamin B6.
– Combination kibble and homemade: Many owners feed a combination of commercial food and raw or home-cooked. EPI owners generally mix foods at a ratio of 20 to 80 percent. As always with an EPI dog, enzyme supplements should be mixed in with the wet portion of the food at room temperature and allowed to incubate. Depending on each individual dog’s tolerance, any variety of meats and fish may be used. Sources of proteins can include beef, chicken, turkey, pork, venison, rabbit, lamb, canned or cooked salmon, and jack mackerel, as well as eggs, yogurt, and cottage cheese. Organ meats, such as liver, kidney, and heart should also be included in the diet. Green tripe is another good option. Variety is key! Again, incubate the food with the enzymes and feed two to four times daily, depending on your individual dog’s needs and your own schedule.
– Raw and home-cooked: Over the past few years, many owners have been able to stabilize their EPI dogs by feeding a raw diet. Raw food has the innate advantage of maintaining natural food enzyme activity that aids digestion. Many vets disapprove of feeding a raw food diet, especially to compromised dogs (possibly exposing them to further complications), while other vets suggest that raw is best for an EPI dog. There have been many anecdotal cases of dramatic improvement when the owners feed their EPI dog a raw diet, especially when all else fails.
Most EPI dogs cannot handle the 20 to 25 percent raw bone content in the diet that is commonly fed to normal dogs. With EPI dogs, it’s smart to start with only 10 to 12 percent of bone. Some dogs still have difficulty digesting this amount of the bone and the ratio will need to be reduced even further, to 3 to 5 percent bone. Note we are talking about the amount of actual bone, not the amount of raw meaty bones, which are usually at least half meat.
Vegetables may be a large or small portion of the diet, or not included at all, depending on the individual dog’s tolerance. If included, they should always be mashed. Organ meats are usually recommended at 10 to 15 percent of the EPI diet, but again, not all dogs can tolerate this.
Supplements for an EPI Diet
Whether you feed dry, canned, home-cooked, raw, or any combination, there are many other ingredients that may be added to provide additional benefits for EPI dogs.
Most EPI dog owners add coconut oil and/or wild salmon oil to their dogs’ diet. Many EPI dogs cannot digest other fats and develop dry, itchy skin or dry, brittle coats. Coconut oil contains medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). Most vegetable oils have longer chain triglycerides, called LCTs. MCTs are utilized faster and burned more quickly for energy, raising the body’s metabolism, while LCTs are utilized more slowly. Also, coconut oil is one of the richest sources of lauric acid. Its benefits have recently been touted to aid in destroying various bacteria and viruses such as listeria, giardia, herpes simplex virus-1, and maybe even yeast infections such as candida.
Wild Alaskan salmon oil is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, which help reduce inflammation.
Probiotics are another important addition to the EPI diet, especially since most EPI dogs are or have been treated with antibiotics because of SIBO. Antibiotics wipe out not only bad bacteria, but also good bacteria. Probiotics help maintain good gut flora. One popular brand of probiotics that has been successfully used by EPI owners is Primal Defense, but there are many quality probiotics available.
Zinc deficiency is another consideration with EPI dogs. It is difficult to accurately measure zinc absorption. Human EPI patients often develop a zinc deficiency, and though no studies have confirmed this to be true of dogs with EPI, many vets suggest a zinc supplement for EPI dogs.
Vitamin E (tocopherol) levels may also be low in an EPI dog due to malabsorption. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that is an antioxidant and helps in the formation of cell membranes, cell respiration, and with the metabolism of fats. Vitamin E deficiency may cause cell damage in the skeletal muscle, heart, testes, liver, and nerves; supplementation with vitamin E can help prevent these problems.
Other natural nutrient sources that are often included in an EPI diet are kelp, green tripe, slippery elm, and alfalfa.
Controlling EPI
Texas A&M and Clemson University are currently embarking on Phase II of an EPI research project to try to identify the genetic markers for the disease. “This disease is characterized by a complex pattern of inheritance,” says Dr. Keith E. Murphy, Professor and Chair of Genetics and Biochemistry at Clemson University in South Carolina. “Thus, we have been limited in how we can attack this in order to identify the gene or genes, that contribute to this horrible disease. However, we are encouraged by the success that we and others have had using SNP technology [unique DNA tests] to identify genetic markers associated with various traits and we will be employing this approach to EPI.”
It is important that this research continues. EPI is rapidly spreading across all breeds. It is no longer just a GSD disease, or a working dog disease. Dogs of all breeds, including crossbreeds, are being diagnosed with EPI. It is happening in family lines too often to be coincidence without a genetic component. Yet, not every family member or generation in affected lines has EPI. For now, until we can actually test for the genetic markers, the best possible control is to remove positively confirmed EPI dogs from breeding programs. Once genetic markers are identified in GSDs, the markers in other breeds will be more easily detected.
Although there are many success stories, there are also heart-wrenching tales of dogs who cannot thrive, families who cannot afford the treatment, and throughout it all, the painful suffering the dog endures unless successfully treated. EPI can no longer be a “hush-hush” disease. My hope is that this article will make a difference by helping raise awareness of EPI to the level of other major canine diseases.
Many EPI Dogs Flourish
Kara surfaced as a stray in a shelter and was subsequently turned over to the Long Island Shetland Sheepdog Rescue group. When they received her, they did not expect her to survive the night, she was so sick and emaciated. They guessed that she was probably one to two years old, but she weighed barely seven pounds – half her ideal weight.
Kara was lucky; she was diagnosed promptly with EPI. While in foster care for four months, Audrey Blake met Kara twice during training classes and the frail little dog with the outgoing personality captured her heart. Although she understood that Kara would need pancreatic enzymes for every meal and a special diet, Blake took Kara home. Today, Kara is known as “U-CD Twenty Four Karat Gold, UD, TDI, CGC (Kara), Rescue Sheltie,” and happily resides with Blake on Long Island, New York.
Sadly, Some Dogs Perish
At five years old, Wayde was taken in by German Shepherd Rescue of New England. Wayde was found to have EPI, an all-too-common problem with GSDs. He also had the secondary bacterial infection, SIBO. Even with enzymes added to his diet, Wayde continued to drop weight until he was only 54 pounds and seemed sad and listless all the time.
Wayde was in the kennel for many months. Finally, a couple who was familiar with EPI, Pamela and Peter Burghardt from Wilmot, New Hampshire, decided to foster Wayde. In their home, his whole demeanor changed; he became happy and gained more than
two pounds the first week. Wayde soon settled in with his foster family and became a sweet “Velcro” dog. He became best friends with his foster sister, another white GSD.
Sadly, Wayde was diagnosed with cancer a few weeks after going into foster care and passed away four months later. Despite the cancer, he had gained 14 pounds and was active and happy to the end.
Olesia Kennedy, a retired research analyst, and previously involved in Canine Search & Rescue, currently devotes her skills and time to EPI research. She resides with her husband and three Spanish Water Dogs in Georgetown, Indiana.
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For many kids, getting a family dog is one of the happiest experiences imaginable. However, disturbing dog bite statistics from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) suggest that all is not well in the kid-dog kingdom. According to the CDC, each year, 800,000 Americans seek medical attention for dog bites. Half of these are children.
Your best insurance against your family being part of these statistics is a puppy-raising program that incorporates proper management and supervision and tons of carefully orchestrated, positive social experiences for your new dog. (For more about how to carry out an ideal socialization program, see “How to Socialize A New Puppy“.)
Your child’s active participation in the family dog’s training, however, will do a lot to cement your dog’s place in your family. The training of the family dog will always be most successful if the whole family is involved. Kids are great natural trainers, and tend to have more time than the adults do to spend with the dog. Also, when they learn positive training techniques, kids learn how to interact with and influence the behavior of other sentient beings without using force, fear, pain, or intimidation. These are skills that may serve them well in their interactions with their friends, classmates, and perhaps even their siblings!
Teaching Kids to Train Your Dog
One of the best investments you can make for training the family dog is a clicker; they cost between $1 and $3. Even if you prefer not to use one when training, buy a clicker for your children to use when they train the dog. Kids love clickers, and are often sold on the gadget from the very first “click!” They can’t wait to get their hands on that little plastic box and start clicking. You just have to convince them that the clicker is a dog training tool, not a toy – that every time they click the clicker they must give the dog a treat. With young children (ages three to six) you can “team click”: one of you clicks, the other feeds a treat to the dog. Older kids usually get the hang of doing both pretty quickly. In fact, their timing with the clicker will probably put you to shame.
You’ll also need a steady supply of tasty treats to use as training rewards. Use something delicious, not just some of the dog’s regular food. It’s also helpful if you choose a food item that is easy to cut up and feed in tiny pieces (no larger than a pea), such as cheese, canned chicken, or hot dogs.
Your child’s first assignment is to “charge the clicker” – or in scientific terms, condition the reward marker. This simply means to teach the dog that the “click” sound means he’s earned a treat. It couldn’t be easier.
Start with the clicker in your pocket or your child’s pocket to muffle the sound; the sharp “click” initially startles some dogs. If your dog seems to be afraid of the clicking sound, stop using it immediately and switch to a different reward marker. You can say “Click!” or “Yes!”, use the softer click of a ballpoint pen, or make a “click” sound with your mouth. Kids are great at mouth clicks!
You’ll be “team-clicking” at first: one of you clicks, the other feeds a tiny, tasty treat. Tiny is important because you’ll feed a lot of them. Tasty is important because you want your dog to love the sound of the clicker, so he learns to love training.
Click (or say “Yes!”), pause, and feed the dog a treat a half-dozen times, so your dog starts to realize the click means a treat is coming. At first, he doesn’t have to do anything to make you click – but be sure not to click when he’s doing a behavior you don’t want, such as jumping up. If you click by accident, however, he still gets a treat; every click means a treat is on its way.
You’ll know when your dog has made the connection: You’ll see his eyes light up when he hears the click, and he’ll look for the treat with eager anticipation. Ask your child to tell you when she thinks the marker is “charged” – that the dog understands that a click means a treat is coming; it’s a great opportunity to have her start to observe and understand her pup’s body language.
Your dog may start to sit while you’re charging the clicker, especially if you hold the treat up to your chest before you click, because it’s easier for him to keep his eye on the treat if he’s sitting. Encourage your young trainer to hold the treat to her chest and click the instant your dog’s bottom touches the ground. If the two of you consistently click-and-treat when the dog sits, he’ll think that sitting makes the click happen, and he’ll start sitting on purpose.
Now you’re going to teach your dog his name. It helps to have two clickers for this – or more, if more family members want to play the name game. One of you say his name, and if he looks at you, click and treat. If he doesn’t look, make a kissing sound to get his attention, then click and treat. Now the other says his name, and when he looks, click and treat. He’ll soon learn that the sound of his name makes the click and treat happen, and he’ll think his name is a very wonderful thing. This will be important to help you get his attention when you need it.
When he understands that click means treat and he responds quickly to the sound of his name, you’re ready to teach him to sit. Well, sort of. He really already knows how to sit; you’re just going to teach him to do the behavior when you ask for it. This is called putting a behavior on cue. The fact is, your dog already knows how to do all the behaviors you want him to learn; you’re just teaching him your words, and convincing him that it’s worth his while to offer the behaviors when you ask for them.
You’re going to teach him that the word “Sit!” means “put your bottom on the ground.” Since you and your junior trainer have already been clicking and treating him for sitting, this should be easy. Do a few more repetitions of “treat to chest,” sit, and click, just to be sure he’s got it. Now, have your child say “Sit!” – once – just before she holds the treat to her chest. When your dog’s bottom touches the ground, click and treat! If your child can deliver the treat directly to your pup’s nose before he gets up, you’re doubling the power of the reinforcement. If the dog tries to jump up to grab the treat, have your child hold it in her closed fist, wait for him to sit again, and then feed it from the open palm of her hand, the way you’d feed a treat to a horse.
Be sure to praise your dog after he gets his click and treat. Tell him what a wonderful, smart dog he is! If you associate praise with the click and treat process, your praise will be very reinforcing to him later in training, and you can use it to reward him for performing well even when you don’t click and treat.
If your dog does not offer sits for the “treat to the chest” maneuver, lure a sit by moving the treat over his head. When he sits, click and treat. When you know he’ll sit for the lure, add the word before you move the treat, then click and treat when his furry bottom touches the floor.
Notice that you don’t add the verbal cue (“Sit!”) until you know you can get your dog to do the behavior. This is a very important concept to teach your kids. They need to understand that your dog doesn’t know what the words mean until you teach him, and that using them before he knows them is fruitless – and may actually teach him that they mean something else!
When your dog will sit easily, it’s time to fade the lure. Your kids won’t always have treats in their pockets, and you want your dog to sit for you whether you have treats or not. Without a treat in her hand, have your child ask the dog to sit, and wait several seconds. If he sits, click and feed him a treat from a bowl on the table. If he doesn’t sit, have your child make the “treat to chest” motion with her hand, clicking and feeding a treat from the bowl on the table when the dog does sit. Soon he’ll be able to sit on just the verbal “Sit!” cue, without the lure.
When he can sit on cue without the lure, skip the click and treat occasionally, and just praise his sit performance. This is called putting the behavior on a schedule of variable reinforcement. It teaches him to keep working for you even if you don’t click and treat every time. At first, skip the click and treat every once in a great while – but remember to praise! Over time you can skip the click and treat more frequently. Remember that if you click, you must treat. If you’re going to skip the reward, you skip the click as well as the treat, and just praise him. This teaches him that if he keeps working, the click and treat will come eventually. Like putting quarters in a slot machine, it might not pay off this time, but eventually it will.
Finally, you and your young trainer need to help your dog generalize the behavior. This means teaching your dog that the click and treat game works wherever you go. If you’ve been practicing in the comfort of your own living room, try it in your backyard. You may have to go back to using the lure at first, until he understands that the game is the same everywhere.
Your child can also teach your dog that “Sit” means “Sit by my side, sit when my back is toward you, sit when I am sitting on a chair, and sit when I am lying on the floor.” Pal also needs to learn that “Sit!” means “Sit when there are visitors in the house, sit when I am walking around the block, sit when I see another dog, and sit even if a cat runs by.” Then the two of you will know that your dog really understands the word “Sit!”
Five-Step Dog Training Formula for Kids
This is the five-step formula that you used for your child’s training sessions with your family dog for “Sit.” Use this formula for every behavior you want to teach him.
1. Get your dog to do the behavior, using the treat to show him what you want, if necessary. Click (or use another reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give him a treat when he does it.
2. Repeat Step 1 until he does the behavior easily. Then add the word for the behavior just before he does the behavior and lure him with the treat, if necessary. Click and treat.
3. As soon he has made the connection between the word and the behavior, fade the lure so he will offer the behavior even if you don’t have a treat in your hand.
4. When he will perform the behavior for you without a lure in your hand (you’re still clicking and treating!), put it on a schedule of variable reinforcement.
5. Finally, help him generalize the behavior to other locations, by taking your child and dog to practice at parks, on walks around the block, in parking lots, and in stores that allow dogs. A good positive training class is another great place for your child to practice working with your dog around distractions.
Teaching “Down” Using the Formula
So let’s see how the formula works with another important good manners behavior; the “Down.” This behavior can be more challenging than the sit – you may have to help your budding trainer with this one.
Step 1: Get the behavior. While your dog is sitting, one of you holds a treat in front of the dog’s nose and starts slowly moving it straight down, using the treat to show him that you want him to move toward the floor. The other clicks the clicker as the dog lowers his head to follow the treat. Each time the click happens, give the dog a small nibble of treat.
Do not wait to click until he is all the way down! Because this is a more difficult behavior, you need to click and reward him just for heading in the right direction, or he may give up. If he stands up, have him sit, and start over again. The two of you will gradually shape him into a down – clicking and rewarding for small bits of the desired behavior until you finally get the whole thing. If your child is unsuccessful in luring your dog into a down, she can lure him under your knee, a low stool, or coffee table, so the dog has to lie down and crawl to follow the treat. Click and reward. Repeat this until he lies down easily, then try shaping the down again.
Step 2: Add the cue. When your dog lies down easily, have your child add the word “Down” just before she lures the dog into the down position, to give him a chance to associate the word with the behavior.
Note: Your dog can only learn one meaning for a word. If you use “down” to mean “lie down” you must use a different word, such as “off!” to mean “don’t jump on me.” If “down” already has a different meaning for your dog, use a different word for “lie down,” such as “drop.”
Step 3: Fade the lure. After a couple of dozen repetitions, have your young trainer stand in front of the dog with her treat hand at her side or behind her back (so she isn’t giving him the “Sit!” cue by holding it at her chest) and tell her to say “Down.” Give your dog a second or two to process the word, and if he doesn’t lie down (he probably won’t), have her put the treat in front of his nose and lure him into a down. Click and treat.
If he doesn’t seem to be getting it after a couple of sessions, try luring less and less. Have your child move the treat three-quarters of the way to the floor, then whisk it behind her leg and let your dog finish the down on his own. You’re trying to jump-start his brain into figuring out what you want rather than waiting for you to show him. When he’ll lie down for a three-quarters lure, try luring just halfway, then less and less, until your child doesn’t have to lure at all. Keep repeating this exercise until he lies down on just the verbal cue, then click and jackpot! – feed the dog a small handful of treats, one at a time, as a special reward for doing this challenging exercise. Then take your child out for ice cream; she deserves a jackpot, too!
Step 4: Put it on a variable schedule. When your dog will lie down easily for the verbal cue without any luring, start skipping an occasional click and treat, just reinforcing with praise. Very gradually increase the frequency of skipped ones, so your dog learns to keep working even if he doesn’t get a click and treat every time.
Step 5: Generalize. Now it’s time to take the show on the road. Have your child start practicing your dog’s “Down” exercise when the two of you take him for walks around the block, trips to the park or the pet food store, or visits to your veterinarian.
Use the same formula to teach your dog the other important good manners behaviors, such as “come,” “wait,” “stay,” and “walk politely on leash.” Don’t forget to sign up for that good manners class!
The Importance of Play to Successful Dog Training
If you make sure to make it fun, your child and your dog will both think of training as play, not work. But your children can also play games with your dog just for the sake of playing; it doesn’t have to all be about training. Remember that all kid-dog play for young children must be directly supervised by an adult. Here are some good games for kids and dogs to play together:
• Find It: Start with a dozen yummy treats and your dog in front of you. Say “Find it!” in an excited voice and toss one treat off to the side. Let him run after it and get it. As soon as he eats that one, toss another in the opposite direction and say “Find it!” Continue until the treats are gone. Older kids can play this part of the game. Young children should just watch.
Now tell your dog to “Wait!” and hold him on-leash while your child places a treat on the ground 10 to 15 feet away, then returns and tells the dog to “Find it!” Let go of the leash so your dog can run to get the treat. Repeat several times, with your child gradually “hiding” the treat in harder places as the dog watches: behind a table leg, on a chair seat, under a paper bag. Each time your child hides a treat, have her return, pause, and release the dog with a “Find it!” cue to go get the treat. Your child can also hide a valued toy – as long as you can easily get the toy back from the dog for the next round of “Find It.”
• Find Susie: When your dog has learned the “Find it” cue for treats, turn it into a game to find hidden humans. Your child hides, and you tell the dog to “Find Susie!” (insert your child’s name here). If your dog needs help, your child can call him or make noises, until he discovers her hiding place. When he does, your child feeds him treats and praises him. Teach him to find different family members by name!
• Fetch: If your dog likes to fetch, this game can keep dog and child entertained for a long time. The rules are simple: Your dog sits. Your child throws the ball. Your dog runs after it, gets it, and brings it back. If your dog doesn’t drop the ball easily, have your child throw a second ball – but only after your dog sits. He must sit each time before your child throws the ball. Most dogs will drop the first one to chase the second. If necessary, get a whole basket of balls. As part of the game, your child can collect all the balls, put them back in the basket, and start again.
The possibilities are endless for you and your child to have fun training your dog. Teach him tricks; kids love to show off their dogs’ tricks. Find more games the whole family can play – Round Robin Recall, for example, where each family member calls the dog and runs away, clicks and treats as he arrives, and then waits for the next person to call him.
Once you’ve completed his basic good manners class, have your trainer help you determine what kind of additional training might suit him and your child – perhaps he’s a candidate for rally style obedience, or your kids might like to try agility, flyball, or musical freestyle. Your children may not live in the White House, but they can have every bit as much fun with their first dog as Malia and Sasha are going to have with theirs.
Selection, Socialization, and Management
If you don’t already have your dog or puppy, choose wisely. Unless you’re confident about your ability to select a good child’s pet, find a knowledgeable dog person to help you find the right companion. Some trainers offer puppy-selection services. You want a healthy, well-socialized, friendly dog or puppy who is clearly delighted to play with your children. Dogs who live with children should not just tolerate kids, they should adore them. Do not lose your heart to the shy canine hiding in the comer; he will not make a good pet for your children.
Once you adopt your puppy or adult dog, put as much time as you can into his socialization. We recommend exposing a puppy to 100 new and positive social experiences in his first 100 days. He should have the opportunity to greet people of different sizes, sexes, and races, and see people in many different settings and activities, such as biking, skateboarding, riding horses, in a pet supply store, veterinarian’s office, at the park, and so on. For more information about a proper socialization program, see “How to Socialize Your Puppy“.
Let your children help you create a management and care plan for your new pup; they should at least be aware of how much is involved with having a dog, even if they are not capable of shouldering all the responsibilities. Have a family meeting to discuss and establish rules. Is the dog allowed on the sofa? Where will he sleep? Who feeds the dog? Who takes him out to potty, and when? Who takes him for walks and plays with him? Who trains? Who does pooper scooper duty?
Draw up schedules, post them on the refrigerator, and award a gold star every time your child does her assigned job on time without being reminded or nagged. Ten gold stars win a small prize, 25 earn a medium prize, and 50 is a grand prize – a trip to the movies, or a new computer game. Positive reinforcement works for humans too! (Note:All the rules of positive training apply, so your children should not be punished by the withdrawal of stars for lapses in responsibility!)
Supervision Is Essential
At risk of sounding alarmist or discouraging a family who is considering getting a dog, we have to be quite serious when we warn owners against leaving children (especially babies and toddlers) alone with dogs. According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), the rate of dog bite-related injuries is highest for children under the age of nine. Dog-related fatalities are highest for newborns to children under the age of seven.
Recent statistics back up these statements. Fifteen of the victims in the 25 dog-related fatalities in the United States in 2008 were children under the age of seven. Of those 15, at least seven of the tragic incidents occurred when the children were left alone with the dog (or dogs) responsible for their deaths. Note that no one breed or type of dog was responsible for the following child fatalities in 2008.
January 18: A six-week-old infant was asleep in a bedroom in Lexington, Kentucky, when he was killed by the family’s Jack Russell Terrier.
April 28: An 18-year-old mother in Greer, South Carolina, found her five-week-old baby dead after she left the infant sleeping in a full-size bed with the dog sleeping next her.
July 22: A three-year-old Jackson, Mississippi, boy was killed while playing alone in his backyard when he approached the family’s chained Pit Bull Terrier.
July 24: An Erie, Pennsylvania, mother left her one-year-old daughter in the living room for “just a moment” as she stepped into the kitchen. Her daughter was attacked and killed by the family’s Sheepdog-mix.
July 28: A two-month-old boy was killed in his bed by a young Labrador in Tulsa, Oklahoma. His mother and grandmother were home but neither was in the room.
September 22: A newborn baby died in Warren, Ohio, after being mauled by the family’s Husky in her bassinet. The father had “left the room briefly” when the dog attacked.
October 3: A two-month-old boy was killed by the family’s mixed-breed dog. The child’s aunt said she left the baby on her bed, asleep, and had gone to the kitchen for a drink of water.
Of the eight remaining dog-related fatalities of children less than seven years of age, two involved free-roaming dogs, and two of the victims were attacked despite the immediate presence of adults. Four of the news reports did not provide enough information to determine if the child had been left alone with the dog.
Young children should always be directly supervised when they are with a dog. “Always” is an absolute term; you can’t so much as duck into the bathroom while your toddler is in the same room as your dog. Take the dog with you, or crate him until you return. Crates, baby gates, exercise pens, doors, tethers, and leashes are all useful management tools for keeping dog and children safely separated when they can’t be directly supervised. Use them. Always.
DOG TRAINING FOR KIDS: OVERVIEW
1. Choose a healthy, outgoing, well-socialized pup for your child’s pet, or an adult dog who clearly adores children. Use professional services if you’re not confident about your own dog—selection abilities.
2. Encourage your child to be a full participant in your dog’s management and training. Kids make great dog trainers!
3. Remember that small children must always be under direct supervision anytime they are with a dog. Always.
Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, is Whole Dog Journal‘s Training Editor. She lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of four books on positive dog training.
Running with your dog off-leash can be the height of joy, but save the experience – like this pair – for a fenced area or off-leash dog park. Even the best-trained dog can sometimes be tempted to chase an animal and become lost or hurt.
There are several words that will instantly rouse our three Rhodesian Ridgebacks from even the deepest of sleeps. “Breakfast,” “cookie,” “dinner,” and “out” all result in Aero, Opus, and Amber running enthusiastically toward the kitchen for food or toward the door to be let out in the yard.
But there is one magic word that far exceeds the impact of all others: RUN. Saying the “r” word in the Sarubin household results in sheer pandemonium with three big brown dogs frantically campaigning themselves to be “the chosen one” that day. Forget actually saying a word about going running! These dogs know the difference between running shorts and regular shorts, running tights and pantyhose, or running shoes and hiking boots. Simply putting on a headband sends them into a frenzy.
The shorter your dog’s legs, the faster he’ll have to move them to keep up, meaning he’s working harder than a taller dog would have to at the same speed. Limit your mileage and keep your speed slower when running with small dogs.
My running partners for 14 of my 18 years of running have been dogs. In my experience, dogs are, by far, the best running partners. They will run any distance, anywhere at any time, and are always happy about running. They never complain about the weather, let me choose the route, allow me to set the pace and distance, and motivate me to run on an almost-daily basis – more than any human running partner ever could.
If you own an athletic dog and are a runner already, or are considering beginning a running program, you have the best of all running partners already living with you.
Why run with your dog?
Dogs love to run. They were born to run. Running will help maintain your dog’s weight, improve muscle tone, maintain a strong cardiovascular system, and build endurance. Running uphill develops rear drive. If you compete in any sort of showing or sport with your dog, he will undoubtedly be better conditioned from running than his “weekend warrior” competitors. Running is also beneficial to your dog’s mental health.
Running makes dogs happy. It allows them to explore the world through sights, sounds, and smells. They get to spend more time with you doing something fun. It allows them to release energy, making it less likely that they will vent their energy in destructive ways. This will make you happy.
Before you get started
Our dogs usually visit the vet far more often than we visit our doctor. Your dog should be examined by your veterinarian and cleared to start a running program before you subject him to many miles. If you are just beginning running yourself, it is advisable to also have a physical examination by your doctor.
How old should your dog be before it is physically safe to begin running together? One rule of thumb is that the dog’s bone growth plates should be closed before the dog takes part in any sort of rigorous activity. Some breeds and types mature more slowly than others. Owners of large dogs such as Great Danes and Scottish Deerhounds, for example, may be well advised to wait until their dogs reach the age of 1 ½ to 2 years. Lighter-boned dogs such as Miniature Pinschers and Whippets may be ready at 8 months to a year. Most dogs should be in the 1- to 1½-year range; check with your veterinarian for information on when your dog’s bone growth plates should be expected to close.
For puppies younger than these recommended ages, free play with other dogs or people is the safest form of exercise. Puppy bones and muscles need sufficient time to develop fully and may be injured by beginning a structured running program too early.
Before you begin running with your dog, it is necessary he understands and responds to basic training cues. Your dog should already be trained to walk on-leash without forging ahead and pulling you off balance, and should sit by your side when you stop at busy intersections. Teaching simple behaviors such as “slow” or “back” when your dog pulls, or “no” when he spots a squirrel or rabbit, are imperative for your safety when running. Remember, unlike walking, only one of your feet is in contact with the ground when you are running, making your dog’s sudden pulls especially dangerous.
While you will need to invest in some properly fitting, quality running shoes, and perhaps some specific running attire for yourself, running gear for your dog is simple and inexpensive. All you need is a four-foot to six-foot leather or cotton web lead and a snugly fitting flat collar to keep your dog safely by your side. A flat collar, martingale collar, or head halter are all choices to consider. A harness is also an option, but may cause chafing on longer runs. Retractable leads are not recommended.
Ready, set, go!
Many of the same principles that apply to beginning a running program for humans apply to our dogs as well. Owners and dogs should ease gradually into a running program, beginning with alternating walking and running for brief periods (no more than 20 minutes), three times a week, gradually increasing the running. Humans and dogs new to running might begin with two minutes of running at a comfortable pace followed by two minutes of walking, for a week or two. Progress to four minutes of running, two minutes walking, then to six minutes running, two walking, until you and your dog are able to run continuously for 20 minutes comfortably, three times a week.
Begin all workouts with a warm-up period of brisk walking or easy jogging before running as well as a similar cool-down after your workout.
Rest and recovery are essential to improve the fitness of both you and your dog. When just starting out, run with your dog every other day, rather than on successive days, allowing time for muscle recovery and to avoid injury while building endurance.
After four to six weeks of training three times a week for 20 minutes, both you and your dog will have built up your strength and endurance to begin to increase your mileage. The generally accepted guideline on increasing running mileage is not to exceed a 10 percent increase (in either time or mileage) a week. As you increase your mileage, your dog’s pads will gradually toughen to handle the longer distances.
How far, long, and often?
As your dog’s strength and stamina increase, he will undoubtedly delight in accompanying you on longer training runs. The number of miles, minutes, or hours you eventually run with him is largely determined by the dog. Many breeds are capable of running 25 to 35 miles a week, but perhaps individual dogs within the breed are not. It is important for you to determine your dog’s limits when running. The dog’s age, size, body density, coat thickness, and temperament may affect how far your dog can safely run. Dogs, like humans, have physical and mental differences that influence performance. By observing your dog’s behavior it is simple to figure out your dog’s comfortable running distance.
Most dogs are eager and excited at the beginning of a run with their owner, bouncing and running slightly ahead. A mile or two into the run, the dog settles into a pace with his human partner, running easily and comfortably by her side. A couple of more miles and the dog may begin to run a few paces behind the owner, and lacks his initial enthusiasm. Certainly if the dog is panting excessively, breathing fast and hard, lagging behind the length of the lead, or showing signs of lameness, it is time to abandon your training run. The signs that your dog is tiring are often subtle, and his devotion to you may cause him to run longer or farther than he would on his own. It is up to you to recognize these subtle signs and to stop your run as soon as you become aware of them.
Be particularly aware of the behavior of the older dog when running. These veterans have not lost their enthusiasm, but just as older human athletes, they need to slow down a bit and need more time for rest and recovery.
You also may look to your dog for clues to how often to schedule your training runs. Once you and your dog have been training together three times a week for several months, you may want to add another day or two (or three) to your schedule.
Running on consecutive days is not a problem for younger, healthy, athletic dogs, as long as the workouts are not successively intense. If you run a hard, fast, five-mile run on Tuesday, an easy four-mile recovery run would be perfect on Wednesday. A longer run, say 10+ miles, on Saturday, should be followed by a slow, comfortable three-mile run on Sunday. If your dog shows any signs of muscle soreness after longer or faster training runs, or lacks his usual enthusiasm for going out running, it is time to take a day off or to go for an easy walk.
What if you have a well-conditioned coursing hound, who competes on the coursing field every weekend? The goal here is to maintain his fitness, without working him to the point of injury or fatigue. Consider the following schedule: Monday: 3 mile recovery run (easy pace); Tuesday: off (or walk); Wednesday: 5 to 10 mile tempo run (a bit faster); Thursday: off (or walk); Friday: 3 to 5 mile easy run. If you like to run more than three days a week, you may just want to leave that canine athlete at home. Although he will undoubtedly be distraught when you lace up your running shoes and head out the door without him, rest and recovery are as important in a conditioning program as is the activity itself.
Running conditions
“Real” runners are not deterred by a little heat and humidity, blistering sun, cold, rain, sleet, or snow. But even if you can physically tolerate any of these conditions, your dog may not fare as well.
Heat and humidity: Some breeds tolerate high temperatures better than others, but caution should be taken with all breeds when the mercury rises. Dogs do not tolerate heat and humidity as well as humans and can easily suffer from heatstroke when running during the summer months.
Schedule your runs early in the morning or later in the evening, avoiding the highest temperature and strongest sun of the day. Choose shaded routes on warm days, avoiding direct sunlight and hot pavement that can burn your dog’s pads. Both you and your dog need to stay hydrated on your runs, especially in warmer, more humid conditions; carry a water bottle (thirsty dogs are easily trained to drink from bottles), or plan a route that includes several water stops.
Most importantly, be aware of the signs that your dog may be overheating to avoid heatstroke. Some days are simply too hot and humid for your dog to run; taking a few days off during a heat wave will not result in a loss of conditioning, and may very well save your dog’s life.
How to Identify and Prevent Heatstroke
Dogs do not have sweat glands and regulate their body temperature primarily by panting. In an overheated dog, panting proves insufficient to lower body temperature. Prolonged heatstroke can lead to coma, brain damage, or even death. Take extra care running with your dog on warm days, and be aware of the signs and treatment of heatstroke.
Signs of canine heatstroke:
High temperature (105º F to 110º F)
Fast pulse
Excessive panting
Deep red or blue tongue and gums
Distressed, agitated
Loss of consciousness
Treatment of canine heatstroke:
Move the dog to a cool, shady area.
Wet thoroughly with cool water to lower body temperature.
Apply ice packs to head and between the thighs until temperature drops below 102˚F (measure with a rectal thermometer).
Give small amounts of water or crushed ice to replace fluids.
If the dog does not respond after 10 minutes, seek veterinary attention
Cold and wintry precipitation: Longer coats offer some protection against the cold, but short-coated breeds need some added protection when running in colder temperatures, especially when the wind-chill temperature is low. A fleece-lined coat with a waterproof outer layer will shield your dog from the cold and wind, as well as freezing rain, sleet, and snow.
Prolonged exposure to frigid temperatures may lead to frostbite of unprotected areas (ears, paws, scrotum, and tail are particularly vulnerable), so make your runs short during the extreme cold. Be careful of ice on the road; “black ice,” an invisible thin layer of ice on pavement, is especially dangerous. Ice balls may form between your dog’s toes in icy, slushy areas, so check his paws often. And the chemicals, salt, and sand used to melt snow and ice on streets and sidewalks may irritate your dog’s feet. Always inspect your dog’s paws at the end of a run and wash off his feet, legs, and underside to remove any chemicals or salt that could be harmful to your dog if swallowed.
Running surfaces may vary depending on where you run. Running in the city guarantees lots of miles on paved roads that will toughen your dog’s pads. Living in the country, you may have access to dirt roads that are kinder on the feet and joints of both you and your dog. State forests (ones that allow dogs), parks, and watershed properties around reservoirs often have more rugged hiking or mountain biking trails that offer more of a physical challenge. “Rails to Trails” linear parks may offer paved, hard-packed, or wood chip trails.
Try to vary the surfaces you run on. Even if you live in an urban or suburban area, you can get your dog off the asphalt for portions of every run. Empty school, office building, or shopping mall parking lots usually have grass around the perimeters; run around the edge of the lot as your dog runs on the grass. Incorporate city parks and cemeteries (if they don’t prohibit dogs) into your running route, so your dog can run on grass while you’re on the road. Teach your dog to hop up on the curb and run along the grass that borders some streets. Or run on the sidewalk while your dog runs along the bordering yards. Be careful, however, not to do too much running on concrete sidewalks; it is an even harder surface to run on than asphalt and will take its toll on your legs.
Considering running with your dog off-lead? Don’t, with perhaps one exception. Running a dog off-lead in anywhere but the most remote locations, far from any motor vehicles, is an invitation to disaster. No matter how well-trained your dog is, or how reliable you believe his recall to be, it only takes one squirrel, rabbit, or deer, and one car, on even the remotest of country roads, to tragically prove to you that your dog will sometimes behave on instinct. If you have access to trails in wooded areas that allow unleashed dogs, far from any roads, running with your dog off-lead is a fun and liberating experience for you both. It is not without risks, however. A dog who does not remain in eyesight of his human runner or cannot be called off prey is not a good candidate for even a remote off-lead run.
Warning: It’s fun
Running with a dog may be highly addictive. Most dogs love to run with their humans, and their joy of running is often infectious. Even when you may not feel motivated to exercise, the guilt of depriving your dog of a favorite activity is usually enough to spur you on. All three of my Ridgebacks adore running, but they show it in different running styles. Opus, nearly 12 years of age, has slowed down considerably in recent years, but still loves a short run. He’s the hunter, always alert, looking for the slightest movement in his surroundings. Amber, 4, has days when she is the perfect pacing partner, completely focused in training, and others when she simply refuses to run at all!
But it is Aero, at 9 years old, who overtly displays his happiness on every run. While running with a joyous bounce, he occasionally looks up at me with a smile and jumps up on my side as if to say, “This is so much fun! I love running with you, Mom!” I love running with you, too, Aero.
When I was a young girl, my parents dropped me off at the Milwaukee Coliseum every January, on the last day of the big benched dog show. I spent most of the day in the stands overlooking the obedience rings, mesmerized by the magic of well-trained dogs working in close partnership with their humans. I was particularly impressed with the hand signal exercises in the advanced obedience classes. Amazing, I thought, that you can communicate with your dog without even talking!
Berkeley, CA, trainer Sandi Thompson tells Milo to “stay” using a hand signal. Some trainers use unique signals; others use standard signs taught by their trainers. It doesn’t matter what signs you use, as long as you are consistent.
What I didn’t realize then but I know now, is that hand signals are actually quite simple to teach to dogs – much easier than getting behavior on verbal cue. And hand signals can be used in many situations where a verbal cue just won’t work.
Dogs Are Good At Reading Body Language
The general dog-owning population today is much more aware of the fact that dogs are, first and foremost, body language communicators, thanks to the work of people like Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., and Turid Rugaas. Dogs need to make sense of our movements in order to survive. They depend on reading us to make their world work for them. As Dr. McConnell writes in The Other End of the Leash, “All dogs are brilliant at perceiving the slightest movement that we make, and they assume that each tiny movement has meaning.”
This makes teaching hand signals incredibly easy. Our dogs already assume our movements have meaning; we just have to make sure they’re attaching the meaning we want them to have for our particular signals. You’ll realize how truly brilliant your dog is when you see how quickly she comes to understand the meaning – and offer the requested behavior – for your body language cues for sit, down, come, and anything else you want to put on a nonverbal cue.
In fact, many dog folks think their dogs have learned verbal cues, only to find out that their dogs are actually keying off non-verbal communications the owner doesn’t even realize she’s making, such as a tiny bend forward at the waist with the “down” cue, or a slight movement of the hand toward the chest that accompanies the word “sit.” Owners do these things so consistently that they become an important part of the picture for the dog, and the human doesn’t realize that the verbal cue is actually secondary. This is bad news for putting behaviors completely on verbal cue, but good news for putting behaviors on a hand signal cue.
This is the gesture I use for cuing “Down!” It’s a large signal that can be seen by a dog who is far away.
Advantages of Training Dogs with Hand Signals
There are several advantages to teaching hand signals, even if you have no intention of competing in the obedience ring:
• They’re easy to teach.
• You can use them when you don’t want to speak – to avoid waking a sleeping baby, when you’re having a conversation on the phone, when you have laryngitis.
• They come in handy when your senior dog begins losing her hearing.
• They are the only way to train a hearing-impaired dog.
• They are useful if you have dreams of doing TV or movie work with your dog.
• It’s gratifying to show off to your friends how well your dog responds to the silent signals.
How to Teach Your Dog Hand Signals
So, how do you deliberately teach a hand signal? Here’s how I do it:
1. Start with a behavior you’re already taught your dog perform on verbal cue, such as “down.”
2. With your dog sitting in front of you, fully extend your right hand straight up in the air and hold it there. Hold a small treat between your thumb and the palm of your hand.
3. Pause for two seconds, then say “Down!”
4. If he lies down, click (or use another reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give him a treat. And praise him!
If he doesn’t lie down, use the treat in your hand to lure him down, then click and treat. Even though he “knows” the verbal cue, chances are your hand raised in the air (different body language!) will throw him off his game at first and he won’t respond to it. “Down!” with your arms at your sides is different from “down” with one hand raised in the air.
5. Repeat until your dog lies down when you raise your hand. You might sometimes wait a few seconds longer before you say “down” or use a lure, to see if his brain just needs a bit more time to process the information.
6. Repeat until he lies down consistently (at least 8 out of 10 times) when you raise your hand, without having to use your verbal cure or lure.
7. Celebrate!
Use Big Gestures as Dog Training Cues
It’s as simple as that. Dogs can learn several cues for one behavior; they just can’t learn several behaviors for the same cue. Anytime you’re teaching a new cue for an already-trained behavior, use the new cue first, followed by the old one. It’s as if you’re saying, “Dog, this cue (hand raised high in the air) means the same thing as this other cue (the word “down”).” Your dog will quickly figure out that the new cue is always followed by the one he knows, and he’ll anticipate the second cue, offering the behavior sooner in order to get his click and treat faster.
Dogs are really good at anticipating. Remember that figuring us out is how they make our world work for them. As soon as your dog realizes the new cue is always followed by the old cue, he’ll jump the gun – which is exactly what you want. Why wait around for the second cue? He knows what he has to do to make you click the clicker and earn the treat.
Often in class when I introduce the raised-hand signal for down, a student will say, “But my dog already knows a signal for down.” She points to the ground, and sure enough, her dog promptly drops to the ground at her feet.
“That’s great!” I say. “And here’s the deal. Pointing to the floor works perfectly when your dog is right in front of you. But if he’s on the opposite side of the room – or a field, or, heaven forbid, a busy road, he may not be able to see that small signal. If he’s mildly distracted, a small signal will escape his notice, while a big one might grab his attention. A large signal that’s silhouetted against the background is easier for your dog to see, and more likely to work for you in all conditions.”
So use big movements for all your basic hand signals. You want your dog to have the best chance of seeing them from afar, even with distractions. Of course you can still use the smaller signal when he’s close if you want; dogs can learn many cues for one behavior.
This is the gesture I use for cuing “Sit!” I start with my arms at my sides, and, keeping my elbow by my side, I exuberantly swing my left hand in a large sweeping gesture up and in toward my body, up toward my face, and then out to the side.
Teaching “Sit” with Hand Signals
Here’s another useful hand signal: Sit. You can use the same signal to ask your dog to sit either from a stand or a down position. You can use any big gesture that makes sense to you. The gesture I use for cuing “Sit” is an upward sweeping motion with my left hand, bringing it up the left side of my chest, and then out to the side with a flourish, as if I was saying, “Ta da!”
When asking a dog to sit from a down position, make the new gesture, then pause with your arm parallel to the ground (tasty treat hidden under your thumb), and then say “Sit!” If he doesn’t respond to the verbal cue, lower your left hand with the treat and lure him up into the sit. Click and treat. Repeat until he sits for the signal, without the verbal cue or lure. It helps to pause after the first signal to give him time to think!
When he’ll sit for the hand signal from the down position, do the same thing from the stand. Start with him standing, facing you. Make the sweeping “ta da” flourish with your left hand, pause with your arm parallel to the ground and, if necessary, prompt with the verbal cue, then the lure. When he sits, click and treat.
“Come” is even easier. Leave your dog on a “Wait” cue, or have someone hold him on leash. Back up until you’re about 10 feet away and stand still. When your dog is looking at you, bring your right hand up to your chest, and then swing it away from you in an arc parallel to the ground, as if you want to thump someone in the stomach who is standing off to your side and slightly behind you. When your arm is stretched straight out, parallel to the ground, pause for two seconds, then say “Come!” in a cheery tone of voice and run backward a couple of steps.
As your dog runs toward you, click, bring your hand back to your chest (so your dog comes to your center instead of your side), and when he gets to you, feed him the treat you had hidden under your thumb. Or better yet, wait for his automatic default sit and then feed him the treat. Note: If your dog doesn’t yet offer an automatic sit, work on that separately and treat him just for coming.
This is the gesture I use for cuing “Come!” I start with my arms at my sides. I bring my right hand up to my chest, and then swing it forward and outward, as if I wanted to thump someone who was standing next to me in the stomach.
TheSubtle Signals You Give While Training
There are times when subtle signals might be more useful than big ones – and they don’t have to be hand signals. Musical freestyle for dogs (also known as “dancing with your dog”) incorporates subtle signals designed to look like dance moves, as well as big signals that are dance moves. Well-trained agility and rally dogs can key off slight changes in their handlers’ body positions; the smart handler purposefully trains and makes use of this ability. If you’re working on a trick routine with your dog, subtle signals might be just the ticket. A friend of mine can ask her Jack Russell Terrier to lie flat on one side or the other just by tipping her head to one side or the other.
The process is the same whether you use big signals or small ones. Decide what non-verbal communication you want to use; figure out how to get your dog to do the behavior; then give the signal followed by a pause, and whatever prompt is needed to get him to do it. Repeat until he performs the behavior on just the body language cue.
I haven’t been to a big benched show in decades, and the dog training and showing world has changed a lot. But some things don’t change. I’m still enthralled by the magic of well-trained dogs working in close partnership with their humans.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal‘s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog; and Play with Your Dog.
I have been meaning to write this e-mail for some time. Whole Dog Journal has done such a tremendous job of providing high-quality, informative articles this year. In particular, I was most impressed with the article about dental care and the vaccine article featuring Dr. Ron Schultz. Your writers did such a top-notch job of researching complex topics and providing fair and accurate information and opinions. As a veterinarian myself, I sometimes read such articles with an overly critical eye, but I could find nothing at fault with either of these. In fact, I was so ecstatic with the dental care article that I had my entire staff read it, so they could see from a dog-owner’s perspective why high quality dental care is so important.
I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about Editor Nancy Kerns’ experiences with her new dog, Otto. Even her confessions that her husband isn’t following all the rules of positive training is wonderful to hear, as many of us can relate to the same type of frustrations!
Another favorite was your interview with the runner-up winner, Laurie Williams, from the TV show Greatest American Dog. I look forward to more great articles in 2009. Your perspective on health insurance is one I want to hear. I highly recommend it to all clients (especially new puppy owners) but I try to be vague about which company, as I think (like foods) there isn’t just one that fits all pets.
Pat Miller’s article on “no-kill” shelters (“What’s Wrong With ‘No-Kill’ ”) in the January 2009 issue disappointed me a little, but I appreciate her perspective nonetheless. I have been a supporter of No More Homeless Pets KC for some years, and they have very specific, business-like goals to help attain their goal of having Kansas City be a no-kill community by 2012. While I’m not a particular fan of Nathan Winograd’s, I read his book, Redemption, with interest (that is, after getting past my initial fury at his abrasive writing style). The main message I took away from his book is that there is more that animal shelters can do to end needless killing, but people have to stop hiding behind excuses and change the mindset of the sheltering system (no space = euthanize).
I worry that we risk jumping to the conclusion that “no-kill” is too mired in distrust and unethical actions to support. We can’t move forward when we point fingers and play the blame game. We all agree that we need to end the killing of homeless animals; let’s embrace the concept of no-kill and support TNR (trap, neuter, and release) programs, comprehensive adoption programs, an active volunteer base, partnering with rescue groups and foster homes, medical rehabilitation, behavior socialization, and low-cost spay/neuter.
I share some of Miller’s reservation about keeping animals in cages for extended periods, and I’m not sure what the answer to this will be. I think there is a place for pharmaceutical intervention in some shelter animals (i.e., anti-anxiety medication), but this is not something I’ve heard much about – perhaps we will hear more in the future?
By the way, as a veterinarian who does quite a bit of behavior work, I really would like to see more mention of the importance of involving a behavior vet when one is grappling with a behavior problem (especially anxiety-based problems). J.C. Burcham, DVM Olathe Animal Hospital, Olathe, KS
I would like to congratulate you on “What’s Wrong with ‘No-Kill’ ” (January 2009). I am so glad that someone has finally told it like it is. I wish more magazines that were about animals would bring this to light. As an animal control officer, I realize that not all animals can be adopted. As much as I love animals and hate to have to euthanize them, I realize that there are not enough homes for all the cats and dogs that are unwanted. Many places that say they are no-kill are guilty of false advertising. Unfortunately, my shelter does not receive some donations because I tell the truth. My shelter has to put down the animals the “no-kill” shelters don’t take; I have to do the dirty work of others who claim to be more humanitarian. I don’t think it’s humane to keep dogs and cats in shelters indefinitely; it can inflict severe mental distress on them.
Thanks for helping people see that some of these “no-kill” places are pulling the wool over animal lovers’ eyes. Judy Burrier, Animal Control Officer Independence, Ohio
I have enjoyed Otto’s progress as I’ve gotten to know him through Whole Dog Journal. On the other hand, I am distracted and distressed when my enlightened animal journal blithely affirms sexist ideas. In “Our Dog” (December 2008), author Nancy Kerns says of her husband, Brian, “Guys do things differently,” and “He wants the dog to do guy things.”
I get it that Brian and Nancy are different in their approaches to Otto. However, to generalize, stereotype, and globalize the behavior of each onto an entire gender damages all of us dog owners. My sister, for instance, is a person who hollers “No!” at a dog, swatting him if she thinks it’s appropriate. She believes it’s not only a dog’s right but duty to lick plates clean. And she does the back-of-the-pickup thing, too. She is a woman, not masculine at all. She just happens to be totally different from me in her dealings with dogs.
Brian doesn’t treat Otto the way he does because he’s a man, but because he’s Brian. Instead of presenting assumptions about treatment of dogs based on gender, please give us humans the option of individualism and diversity.M Mariah Poole Oneonta, NY
Its taken a number of years (and some significant missteps, in our opinion), but television producers are finally turning out programs that promote dog-friendly training and progressive dog care. For some time, Ive been a fan of British trainer Victoria Stilwells show on Animal Planet, Its Me or the Dog! In the course of each episode, Stilwell visits the home of some dog owner (or owners) who have a problem dog (or dogs). The dog/s are shown being unbelievably obnoxious and/or aggressive, and the owner/s are shown to be without a clue and at their wits end. Stilwell then explains how the situation has developed, demonstrates positive solutions (as the owner/s gape), and teaches the owner/s how to carry out the methods themselves.
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Its interesting to me to see the many ways that dog owners can inadvertently contribute to the development of serious and vexing behavior problems in their dogs; I also enjoy comparing Stilwells advice and suggested solutions to my own much-less-experienced ideas about how to fix the problems. The fact that I dont always agree with her approaches doesnt in any way diminish my appreciation for her promotion of dog-friendly training techniques methods that are based on behavioral science, not force or intimidation.
I just found another show that I admire (again, not without some minor quibbles). Underdog to Wonderdog, also seen on the Animal Planet channel, had its debut in January. In the course of each episode, a team of dog lovers rescues and rehabilitates a needy, homeless dog. The dogs physical, emotional, and training needs are addressed through veterinary care, grooming, positive training, and even some environmental enhancement in the form of custom-built dog beds, play structures, and designer dog-wear. Best of all, the team of experts finds a home for the dog and prepares the dog for his new family, and the family for the new dog.
Despite what one of my dog expert friends accurately described as a sickening amount of gushing over the dog in the first episode, I was pleased to see a major television production focus on the value of rescuing homeless dogs. The fact that they also addressed, albeit briefly, many of the issues that should be addressed to make sure that the dog recovers from the neglect or abuse in his past is icing on the cake, for me.
Mainstream TV shows are often shallow, sensational, repetitive, and fuzzy about the facts, in their effort to be entertaining. However, if you are at all interested in the content, they can be all those things and riveting, at the same time! Maybe its just me; its possible that Im just so grateful to see positive training techniques shown to a wide audience that Im overly forgiving of the shows flaws. Nobodys perfect!
Consult your local listings to determine when these shows are broadcast; Im willing to bet youll get hooked, too.
What’s the best food for your dog? It’s a question that only you can answer – because you are the only one who is in a position to gauge, on a daily, monthly, and yearly basis, how your dog responds to what you feed him.
That said, we can give you some tips to guide you into the right section of your local pet supply store – that is, past the lowest-cost, lowest-quality foods; past the higher-cost but still low-quality posers; and into the area where the top-quality foods are found. Take note: They are expensive, perhaps prohibitively so, especially for families with several large dogs to feed. But you can’t expect to pay hamburger prices for filet mignon, and it’s the quality (and thus price) of the ingredients that set the top-quality foods apart.
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Before we tell you what attributes to look for, though, we need to make a few points about the quest for the world’s best dog food:
• Dry food is not the healthiest diet for your dog. If you want to provide the very best, most natural diet possible for your dog, you’d feed a well-researched, home-prepared diet comprised of fresh foods. Or, next best, a well-formulated, commercially made frozen raw or dehydrated diet. Next best would be a top-quality wet food; even poor quality wet foods usually contain a higher percentage of animal protein (and a much lower percentage of grain) than good dry foods.
Of all of these forms of dog food, kibble is probably the least natural for the dog. But its popularity is mainly based on three factors: It is relatively stable and therefore very convenient for the owner to buy, store, and feed. It’s usually less expensive, calorie for calorie, than other forms of food with comparative ingredients. And most dogs do fine on a dry food diet.
Just keep it in the back of your head that if you want your dog to eat the ideal, evolutionary canine diet – because he’s got persistent health problems? because he’s a show or sports competitor and you want an edge? because you’ve lost your last three dogs to cancer and you want to know you did everything possible to give this dog the very best? – you’ll need to look to something other than kibble, even the highest-quality kibble available.
• No food is best all dogs. There is no single diet that works best for all humans, or every individual of any other species, so why people think there might be a single ideal food for every dog is beyond us!
To find the best foods for your dog, you have to try a lot of foods, and make it a point to observe your dog for signs that his diet is or is not agreeing with him. If he has chronic signs of compromised health, such as persistently goopy or runny eyes; infected or smelly ears; inflamed, itchy skin; severe gas; or frequent diarrhea, and these conditions improve, well, hurray! If these things worsen, try another food.
We strongly recommend that you keep some sort of diet journal – at a minimum, with notes on the calendar – to keep track of what foods you feed your dog, and what his response to each product has been. We keep a journal of health- and training-related events in our dog’s life, and note the date each time we open a new bag of food. We store dry food in its original bag until it’s all consumed, but once it’s empty, we cut out the ingredients list, “guaranteed analysis,” and date/code from the bag and tape these bits of packaging into the dog’s journal. This sort of journal can help you identify foods or even individual ingredients that are problematic for your dog; in case of a pet food disaster, it can also help prove what your dog ate, and when he ate it.
• Switch foods regularly. We know; you heard that you shouldn’t switch your dog’s food, or his stomach will get upset. If you ate only one food every day for weeks and months, and then ate something else, your stomach would get upset, too. But very few people eat a diet that never varies from day to day. Human nutrition experts agree that a well-balanced, varied diet is critical for human health; so why do so many people believe that variety is bad for dogs?
Say your dog eats one food, day after day, year after year. And say that food contains a little more of this mineral than is ideal, or not quite enough of that vitamin, or an unhealthy ratio of this nutrient to that one . . . Over time, lacking any other foods to help correct the excesses, insufficiencies, or the imbalances, these problems can contribute to the development of disease.
When you switch your dog’s food, do it gradually, over a couple of days. Start with 75 percent of the old food and 25 percent of the new food at one meal; slowly increase the amount of new food (and decrease the amount of old food) over a few days, until he’s eating only the new food. Try different varieties, as well as products from different companies. If you change foods often, your dog will adjust more and more smoothly.
One more thing: Don’t feed foods comprised of exotic proteins (such as rabbit, kangaroo, bison, pheasant, etc.) if your dog does well on the more common proteins (such as beef, lamb, chicken, and turkey). It’s extremely useful to have a few completely novel proteins held in reserve for use in an “elimination diet” (in which you feed him a diet comprised of, usually, a single novel protein and a single novel grain) in case your dog ever develops a food allergy.
What to look for Keeping the previous principles in mind (kibble is not the most ideal diet; no food works for all dogs; you should switch foods regularly), you are now ready to look for a few good foods for your dog. Top-quality dry dog foods can be identified by the following hallmarks of quality on their ingredients panels:
• Animal protein at the top of the ingredients list. Animal proteins are more palatable and are of a higher biologic value to dogs than plant-sourced proteins. Ingredients are listed by weight, so ideally a food will have one or two animal proteins in the first few ingredients.
The animal protein source should be named – chicken, beef, lamb, and so on. “Meat” and “animal protein” are examples of low-quality protein sources of dubious origin. Animal protein “meals” (i.e., “chicken meal,” “beef meal,” “lamb meal,” etc.) should also be named; “meat meal” could be just about anything.
Whole meats do not contain enough protein to be used as the sole protein source in a dry dog food. Whole meats contain as much as 65 to 75 percent water and about 15 to 20 percent protein. When a whole meat appears high on the ingredients list, generally another source of protein is also present, in order to augment the total protein content of the finished food. We prefer to see animal protein meals, rather than plant proteins, fill this role.
An animal protein “meal” is essentially cooked and dried (rendered) muscle meat, although a certain amount of bone, skin, and connective tissue is included. Animal protein meals are dried to a moisture level of only about 10 percent, and contain about 65 percent protein.
• Whole vegetables, fruits, and grains. Fresh, unprocessed food ingredients contain wholesome nutrients in all their naturally complex glory, with their fragile vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants intact. They are also less likely to be adulterated with impurities of any kind.
That said, formulators often use a concentrated (processed) constituent of a grain or vegetable to accomplish a specific task in a dog food. For example, beet pulp is frequently used in dog food for its ability to concentrate the dog’s solid waste (resulting in smaller and firmer poop). We’d rather see whole ingredients used for this purpose, but one or two food fragments won’t make or break the quality of the food, especially if they are lower on the ingredients list. The more of them there are in the food, and/or the higher they appear on the ingredients list, the lower-quality the food.
• Organic ingredients; locally sourced ingredients. Both of these things are better for our planet. Organic ingredients may be especially appropriate for dogs with cancer, chemical sensitivities, or other serious health problems, but holistic practitioners recommend them for all creatures.
What to look out for Here are some of the things a top-notch food should not contain:
• Meat by-products or poultry by-products. Some non-muscle parts of food animals (i.e., the internal organs) are highly nutritious – in some cases, higher in protein and fat, as just two nutrient examples, than muscle meats. But there are many other parts of food animals that have much less nutritional value – and are worth so much less (in dollars) to the processor, that they are considerably less carefully harvested, handled, processed, and stored.
Poorly handled meats (which contain fat) and fat sources can quickly become rancid. Rancid fats not only smell noxious and taste bad, they also speed the destruction of vitamins and other nutrients in a food. Worst, rancid fats are carcinogenic. ‘Nuff said?
In contrast, whole meats are expensive – too valuable to be handled carelessly. Their cost doesn’t rule out poor handling and resultant oxidation (rancidity), but it makes it less likely. So, for all these reasons, we suggest avoiding foods that contain by-products or by-product meal.
• Added sweeteners. Dogs, like people, enjoy sweet foods. Sweeteners effectively persuade many dogs to eat foods comprised mainly of grain fragments (and containing little of the animal protein that would be healthier for them).
• Artificial preservatives, such as BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin. Natural preservatives, such as tocopherols (forms of vitamin E), vitamin C, and rosemary extract, can be used instead. Preservation is necessary to keep the fats in the food from oxidizing and turning rancid. Natural preservatives do not preserve the food as long as artificial preservatives, however, so owners should always check the “best by” date on the label and look for relatively fresh products.
• Artificial colors. The color of the food makes no difference to the dog; these nutritionally useless chemicals are used in foods to make them look appealing to you!
Representative “top foods” Starting on the next page is our “top dry foods” list for 2009. All of these products meet our selection criteria – including our newest criterion, that the company discloses the name and location of its manufacturers. There are certainly more products that both meet our criteria, as described above, and whose makers are willing to answer questions about their manufacturers. Rest assured that any food that you find that meets our selection criteria is just as good as any of the foods on our list.
What if your favorite dog foods don’t meet our selection criteria? It’s up to you. If you have been feeding what we would consider to be low-quality foods to your dog, and she looks and appears to feel great, good for you! She’s one of those genetically lucky animals who can spin straw into gold, digestively speaking. But if she has allergies, chronic diarrhea, recurrent ear infections, or a poor coat, we’d recommend that you try some better foods.
Please note: We’ve listed the foods alphabetically, by the name of their manufacturers. Some companies make several lines of food. We’ve listed each line and each variety that we found that meets our selection criteria. We’ve highlighted one variety from each company as a representative product, to show what sort of ingredients and macro-nutrient levels (protein, fat, fiber, and moisture) are typically found in that maker’s foods. Be aware that some companies offer dozens of different products with varying nutrient levels and ingredients. Check the company’s website or call its toll-free phone number to get information about its other varieties.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
