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Bone Marrow Transplants Offer a Promising Treatment for Canine Lymphoma

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Exciting news regarding bone marrow transplants for dogs with lymphoma has recently emerged. North Carolina State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine in Raleigh is the first university in the world to open a canine clinical bone marrow transplant (BMT) unit. Dr. Steven Suter, assistant professor of veterinary oncology at NCSU, is about to perform his

Bone Marrow Transplants

Photo by David Hunt

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30th transplant, all done over the past two years.

Lymphoma, also called lymphosarcoma, is one of the most common cancers to occur in dogs. While it used to be considered a disease of middle-aged and older dogs, those demographics have changed in the past 5 to 10 years, with more and more young dogs being diagnosed. Golden Retrievers have a particularly high risk for this type of cancer.

Lymphoma affects the lymph system, which is spread throughout the body, so surgery cannot be used to eradicate this form of cancer. Without treatment, most dogs die within two months of diagnosis. While chemotherapy can extend the life of dogs with lymphoma for up to two years, fewer than 2 percent of dogs are cured.

“The success rate for bone marrow transplants in people with lymphoma is 50 to 66 percent, and the hope is that dogs will respond similarly,” says Dr. Suter. Of the dogs who have received transplants at NC State in the past two years, 70 percent are still alive, but it’s still early days for many. Full results will not be known for a couple of years, but it is expected that even those dogs who are not completely cured will likely remain in remission for much longer than would have been the case without the transplant.

What the process entails
This is not actually a new technology, as bone marrow transplant protocols for people were originally developed in the 1970s from research done on dogs. The same leukophoresis machines used to harvest healthy stem cells from people can be used without modification for dogs.

“The dogs need to be in either complete remission or very close to complete remission to undergo the BMT procedure,” says Dr. Suter. “So, they all have to receive chemotherapy to get them to that point. Once in remission, they can have a BMT at any time afterward.”

The transplant procedure requires several days of preparation, starting with twice-daily injections of a drug called Neupogen, designed to drive healthy stem cells from the bone marrow into the bloodstream where they can be harvested. An ultra-low-fat diet is fed during this time, as lipids in the blood make stem cell extraction more difficult.

A week later, the dog is placed on a leukaphoresis machine that harvests stem cells from the blood. This process takes about six hours. The following day, the dog receives full body radiation to kill the cancer cells in his bone marrow. Immediately afterward, the stem cells that were harvested the day before are infused back into the bloodstream. The entire process is done under sedation or anesthesia and is painless for the dog.

Following the procedure, the dog is kept at the facility in an isolation ward for about two weeks to give the immune system time to recover as the stem cells start to regenerate. Vomiting and diarrhea due to the radiation are common during this time; drugs are given to combat these side effects. Antibiotics are given before and after the procedure to reduce the chances of bacteria entering the bloodstream and to help fight any infection while the immune system is suppressed. Blood transfusions may be needed due to internal bleeding from loss of platelets that are created by the bone marrow.

For most dogs, no special care is needed after they return home. Hair loss and tiredness are the primary side effects at this time. Dogs will experience bouts of fatigue but should return to normal within four to six weeks.

Promising, not guaranteed
Not all dogs who receive a bone marrow transplant will be cured. While there is no way to know when a dog is completely cancer-free, most relapses so far have occurred in the first four months following the transplant. Dogs who make it beyond this point are more likely to be cured or remain cancer-free for two years or more.

The cost of a bone marrow transplant at NCSU runs from $13,000 to $17,000, averaging about $14,500. This includes everything except intensive ICU care, blood transfusions, and additional diagnostics that may be needed in some cases. There are additional monitoring costs after your dog returns home. Pet insurance may cover some of the cost of bone marrow transplants depending on the company and plan.

Stem cell extraction from bone marrow is more difficult with small dogs. “The smallest dog we’ve transplanted thus far was a 12.5-kg French bulldog (27.5 pounds),” says Dr. Suter. “We are getting ready to transplant an 11-kg (24 pounds) Shih Tzu in a few weeks. Probably about the lowest we can go is around 8 kg (or about 18-20 lbs).”

Dogs with serious health problems such as kidney or heart disease, or conditions that make infections more likely, such as diabetes or Cushing’s disease, do not qualify for the transplant procedure, as the risk would be too great.

Five private facilities in the U.S. are gearing up to offer bone marrow transplants for dogs. Eight transplants have been done by Edmund Sullivan, DVM, in Bellingham, Washington, beginning in 2004, but most of these clinics are just beginning to do or have not yet done their first procedures. There is some concern that it is too soon to be marketing bone marrow transplants so widely, before enough is known about the success rate and how to treat and prevent potential side effects. The five facilities are:

  • Bellingham Veterinary in Bellingham, Washington
  • Gulf Coast Veterinary Specialists in Houston, Texas
  • VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital in Los Angeles, California
  • Veterinary Specialty Hospital in San Diego, California
  • Veterinary Specialty Center of the Hudson Valley in Wappingers Falls, New York

– Mary Straus

It’s Not Your Imagination: Dogs Do Mimic Their Owners

Behavioral scientists have long questioned whether dogs are capable of mimicking each other or people. A recent study published in the Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences has shown that dogs are not only capable of mimicking their owners, they do so automatically. In fact, their drive to copy our head and hand (paw) movements is so strong that they tend to do so even when it is not in their best interests.

Dogs Mimic Their Owners

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Friederike Range and her colleagues at the University of Vienna Department of Cognitive Biology tested 10 adult dogs of various breeds and their owners. They began by training the dogs to open a sliding door both by using their heads and by using their paws. The dogs then watched their owners perform the same task, opening the door either by hand, or by getting down on the floor and using their heads.

Half of the dogs were then rewarded when they copied their owners; the other half received a reward when they did the opposite. All of the dogs tended to copy their owners, even when it meant they were not rewarded.

Later, when the dogs who had to learn to do the opposite of what their owners did then were asked to copy their owners, they made more mistakes than the first group, suggesting that imitative behavior is the result of developmental interactions rather than simply evolution. In other words, copying people is a learned behavior, not an instinctual one.

While both human and non-human primates, as well as certain species of birds, are known to automatically imitate each other, the phenomenon of copying another species is thought to be rare or even unique. This is undoubtedly due to the special relationship that dogs have evolved with humans.

Knowing that dogs imitate us could facilitate certain types of training. There are several delightful videos making the rounds that show groups of dogs performing tasks such as putting up Christmas decorations and enjoying a picnic at the beach. These dogs were trained in Hungary by clicker trainers who use what they call the “Mirror Method” of training. For example, when they want their dogs to sit, the trainers will crouch down themselves.

– Mary Straus

Carbohydrates and Your Dog’s Digestive System

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Carbohydrates provide a critical part of a dog's diet.

Grain-free dry dog food has become wildly popular in the past few years. More and more companies are rolling out a grain-free kibble, as demand for this type of food keeps growing. Why are they so popular?

We’ve found that many dog owners who feed grain-free foods don’t know why they are spending a small fortune on these foods. Or, we should say, they often have their reason, but only rarely are the reasons valid!

As the most common example, some people say they’ve switched to grain-free foods “because dogs don’t need carbs.” Well, they are partly right; dogs don’t require carbohydrates in their diet. But grain-free dry dog foods do contain carbs! In fact, many grain-free foods contain a fair amount of carbohydrates in the form of potatoes, sweet potatoes, tapioca, or peas.

Grain-free foods perform really well when fed to some dogs, but may be inappropriate for others, for example, when a high-fat or high-protein diet is contraindicated. Dogster.com explains the different kinds of grains in relation to dogs’ diets here.

Our philosophy is this: owners should feed their dogs the diets that work best for their individual animals, and develop an accurate understanding of why those diets work well. In an effort to support that suggestion, let’s look at grain, carbs, and how these can be used (or not!) to best meet the nutritional needs of your dog.

What are Carbs?

Carbohydrates are used by dogs as a source of glucose. As such, carbs provide energy, a source of heat when metabolized, and products that can be used as building blocks for other nutrients.

Carbohydrates can be divided into two categories: simple and complex.

Simple carbohydrates, such as fructose, sucrose, and lactose, require little or no digestive breakdown and are readily absorbed from the small intestine and converted into glucose. These are found in table sugar, honey, and fruits, as just a few examples.

Complex carbohydrates are further categorized as either starches or fibers, and are digested more slowly than simple carbohydrates. Starches require additional breakdown by enzymes, produced by the pancreas and intestinal wall, before they are absorbed and utilized by the dog. Starches are contained in grains; vegetables such as potatoes and peas; and beans.

Fiber is resistant to enzymatic digestion; some fibers are fermented by intestinal microbes. Dietary fiber is found only in plant foods: fruits, vegetables, nuts, and grains, and comes from the portion of plants that is not digested by enzymes in the intestinal tract.

The glycemic index (GI) – the rate at which carbohydrates are absorbed into the bloodstream – is, in general, lower for foods containing complex carbohydrates than simple carbohydrates, but there are exceptions. A number of factors influence a food’s GI, including processing, type of starch, fiber content, ripeness (of fruit), fat or acid content, preparation, and how each individual’s body processes food, including how much the food is chewed, and how quickly it is swallowed. For example, foods such as carrots, bananas, watermelon, and whole wheat bread might have a high GI, but contain relatively little carbohydrate, with the end result being they have little effect on blood sugar levels.

Common carbohydrate sources used in canine diets include grains, fruits, vegetables, and a few other interesting foodstuffs.

“Whole” grains, which contain the entire grain kernel (the bran, germ, and endosperm), are good quality carb sources. Examples include whole wheat, bulgur, oatmeal, corn/cornmeal, brown rice, buckwheat, barley, rye, amaranth, millet, quinoa, and triticale.

When you find these ingredients in a kibble (or canned food), they will be cooked and therefore readily digestible. For home-prepared diets, it’s essential to cook these grains well, often soaking overnight, to increase digestibility. Whole grains pack a pretty powerful wallop in terms of good stuff such as dietary fiber, B vitamins, and important minerals such as iron, selenium, and magnesium.

Of lesser value are “refined” grains, which have been milled, a process that removes the bran and germ. Milling also removes dietary fiber, iron, and many B vitamins, so refined grains provide little nutrition but still contain the same number of calories. The dog’s body processes refined grains quickly, resulting in a more immediate impact on blood glucose levels. Examples of refined grain products are white flour, degermed cornmeal, white rice, and pasta (semolina).

There might be medical reasons to feed refined grains to a dog (due to their ease of digestibility), but our preference for healthy dogs is to stay away from refined products, particularly in significant quantities. Vegetables and fruits are also common sources of carbohydrates. Tapioca, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and taro, among others, contain starch, and are typically higher in carbohydrate, but are also healthful sources of calories in moderation. When feeding those kinds of vegetables in a home-prepared diet for your dog, you’ll want to cook them. To help with digestibility, most other vegetables should either be cooked or if served raw, finely ground. Fruits and vegetables are a fabulous source of naturally occurring antioxidants.

Other good-quality carbohydrate-containing foods include legumes (beans), dairy products (e.g., milk, cheese, cream cheese, cottage cheese, ricotta cheese, yogurt), some organ meats, oysters, and mussels.

Then there are the “empty” carbs – ingredients that offer little or no nutrition for the dog, but provide some other service. Fiber helps regulate the transit time of the bowel contents and form of the stool. Common sources of this type of fiber include soybean hulls; wheat, rice, or oat bran; beet pulp; and pea fiber.

Why Should Dogs Eat Carbs?

As we mentioned before, dogs have no nutritional requirement for dietary carbohydrates. They can get everything they need from a diet that contains only protein and fat. Energy metabolism in the dog can be based on fat oxidation and the breakdown of protein to produce glucose.

There are two main reasons why we feed carbs to dogs. The first reason is because we can. Dogs can utilize just about anything we feed them; their digestive tracts are extremely versatile. The second reason is economic; fat and protein sources are much more expensive than carbohydrates.

People often point fingers at the pet food industry, accusing it of using grains to nutritionally short-change our pets in favor of profits. But humans have fed grains and other carbohydrate sources to their dogs as long as we’ve had leftovers. Animal protein and fat has always been at a premium! And our dogs have always gotten only as much of the meat (and bones, fat, hooves, connective tissue, and organs) as we felt we could spare.

Also, it’s obviously quite possible to make adequate diets for dogs that are quite high in inexpensive grains – the majority of the global pet food industry is devoted to this very endeavor. If these foods were as nutritionally inadequate as many industry critics make them out to be, we wouldn’t have a pet overpopulation problem, if you know what we mean! Many carbs contain a slew of vitamins, phytochemicals, minerals, trace elements, dietary fiber, and even some fatty acids and protein. And many dogs do just fine on these diets.

Structurally, carbohydrates (starches in particular) are essential to dry pet food processing; commercial extruded pet foods use starches to give the food structure and texture. Even some canned dog foods contain a carbohydrate source. Gums and gelling agents are often used to solidify canned food and absorb water in high-moisture foods to eliminate “free” water in the container. Guar gum is one agent used that is derived from the ground endosperm of the guar plant; it is used as an emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer in canned foods.

In addition to keeping kibble together, carbohydrate-rich ingredients are included in many commercial dog foods because of their relatively low cost, caloric contribution (4 calories/gram) and ease of sourcing. This helps keep the price of the food attractive to cost-conscious dog owners.

Bargain hunters aren’t the only ones whose dogs can benefit from diets that contain carbs. According to Susan G. Wynn, DVM, CVA, CVCH, AHG, “While dogs do not require the carbohydrates found in grains or potatoes or any other food, there are some instances where a dog still might derive benefit from them being there.”

Dr. Wynn recently completed a residency in nutrition at the University of Tennessee’s College of Veterinary Medicine, and in addition to private practice, lectures internationally on the topic of clinical nutrition and holistic medicine. She is also a fan of properly formulated carb- and/or grain-containing diets for dogs – except when contraindicated by an individual dog’s medical needs – because both carbs and grains offer certain benefits.

“For instance,” she says, “grains contain certain fibers that are beneficial for the growth of probiotic bacteria in the gut, and they also contain various required vitamins and minerals.”

Dr. Wynn also points out that grains, which have a lower fat content than meat, can be used in some cases as a “place-holder” in a home-prepared diet to help fill up a dog whose weight needs better control.

Sorting Out Carbohydrate Facts From Fiction

Misconceptions abound regarding carbohydrate-containing foods, especially grains, in the canine diet. Dr. Wynn addresses a few of these in her “Pet Health and Nutrition” blog, which we’ve borrowed from here:

“Dogs have a shorter GI tract than people, so they can’t digest grains unless they are partially digested first.”

Fact: Decades of research have proven that dogs digest grains and carbohydrates quite well. More specifically, Dr. Wynn points out that although dogs lack salivary amylase, they
tend not to chew their food; they’re gulpers, so why would they benefit from an oral digestive enzyme? She explains that dogs, like humans, manufacture potent pancreatic amylase and “brush border” enzymes to digest carbs, with most digestion occurring in the first part of the small intestine.

There’s also a belief that a dog’s stomach is acidic and that dogs retain food in their stomachs longer than people, so a meat based diet is more appropriate (protein is initially digested in the stomach). Dr. Wynn points out that the pH range of the dog’s stomach is quite similar to that of humans: it ranges from 1.08 to 5.5 in dogs, and in humans, from 1.0 to 4.0. The main difference is that the dog is actually more alkaline at times. It’s true, she says, that dogs can’t digest cellulose – a single structural carbohydrate used by plants to form things like stalks, seed coats, and vegetable structure – but neither can humans (only some herbivores, such as cows, can). This is why to derive the most benefit from grains and vegetables, we cook or finely grind them first.

“Feeding carbohydrates places stress on the pancreas.”

Fact: The job of the pancreas is to produce enzymes to digest fats, proteins, and starches. During pancreatic inflammation (e.g., pancreatitis), those enzymes are released and cause inflammation and damage to the pancreas and surrounding organs and tissues. To suppress production of the enzymes, veterinarians suggest that you reduce the fat in the dog’s diet and feed a diet that is high in carbohydrates. Dr. Wynn cautions
that casually feeding digestive enzymes daily as a supplement can downregulate the pancreas’ own production of proteases — not necessarily a good thing.

“Grains cause allergies.”

Fact: Dogs can become allergic to certain foods if they have the genetic predisposition to develop food allergies. In a review of seven studies, Dr. Wynn found that dogs are most
commonly allergic to the following foods (in descending order): beef, dairy, wheat, egg, chicken, lamb/mutton, soy, pork, rabbit, and fish. In her personal experience she has seen higher numbers of corn allergy but emphasizes that grains do not constitute the majority of allergy offenders.

Too Much?

Note that some pet food companies take this approach to an extreme, formulating foods that contain more than 50 percent carbohydrates (and low-quality sources at that!). These foods may also contain 15 percent (or more) crude fiber.

According to Small Animal Clinical Nutrition (published by Mark Morris Institute and often considered the bible of pet nutrition), “a small amount of fiber (less than 5 percent) that contains both rapidly and slowly fermentable fibers is recommended in foods for healthy pets.” The text goes on to say that, “Excess fiber may have undesirable effects. For instance, certain fiber types decrease mineral absorption. The effects on mineral absorption vary by type of fiber and the mineral. More rapidly fermentable fibers (e.g., pectins and guar gum) appear to decrease availability of some minerals, whereas fibers that contain more cellulose have little effect on mineral absorption.

“Excess fiber can dilute the energy and nutrient content of the food to such an extent that an animal may have difficulty eating enough of the food to meet its needs.”

How can you tell whether a food contains “too much” total carbohydrate? For that matter, how can you tell at all how much carbohydrate a food contains? The guaranteed minimum percentages of protein and fat, and the maximum percentages of fiber and moisture, are required by law to appear on a pet food label. But only particularly interested owners are apt to learn the approximate carb content of a food; you’d have to either call the pet food maker and ask for this information, or do some math.

To roughly calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in a food, look at the guaranteed analysis on the label, and subtract the amount of protein, fat, moisture, and ash from 100 percent; the carb content is what’s left over. (You may have to contact the company to get the food’s ash content; it’s not required on the label, either.)

“Ideal” Carbohydrate Amounts Vary by Dog

Ultimately, it will be up to your dog – and your observation skills – to determine what constitutes “too much” and “too little” carbohydrate in his diet; there is no such thing as an “ideal” percentage of carbs in a canine diet. It totally depends on the dog, say Sean Delaney, DVM, MS, DACVN, and Sally Perea, DVM, MS, DACVN, veterinary nutritionists with Natura Pet Products. Drs. Delaney and Perea agree that some dogs do well on lower carbohydrate foods and others do not; it depends on the individual

Dr. Wynn adds, “Different dogs digest grains in different ways. Some dogs have excellent stool quality when there are grains in the diet, and others don’t. As a species, the domestic dog does not have a single, consistent nutrient profile requirement.”

Given that there is no commonly accepted ideal for the carb content of canine diets, there aren’t standards for what is considered low, moderate, or high carb levels, either. Drs. Delaney and Perea say they classify carbohydrate content in dog food as “low” when less than 20 to 25 percent of the calories in the diet are from carbohydrates. They’d classify as “moderate” foods with 25 to 40 percent (and even as much as 60 percent) of their calories attributable to carbohydrate.

All three veterinarians advise that for dogs known to be fat intolerant or who suffer from diseases like hypertriglyceridemia (high blood fat levels) and pancreatitis, very low carbohydrate diets might need to be avoided because of their traditionally higher fat content. For those requiring lower fat diets, adjusting the amount of food containing dietary carbohydrate upward is usually necessary.

Delaney and Perea agree that feeding whole grains, for example, might not be optimal for every pet, since whole grains provide a significant amount of dietary fiber, which may or may not be desirable for a certain dog. But feeding fiber-containing foods is beneficial in the management of many large bowel diseases and some small bowel diseases. Fibrous foods have the ability to delay gastric emptying, slow small bowel transit time, bind toxins and irritating bile acids, and normalize gut motility.

For the gestating/lactating female, it is recommended to supply food containing readily digestible carbohydrates and starches. The book Small Animal Clinical Nutrition notes, “Gestation and lactation increase the need for glucose to support fetal growth and lactose synthesis in milk. Fetal abnormalities, embryo resorption, ketosis, and reduced milk production are possible adverse effects of providing inadequate carbohydrates during gestation and lactation.”

When to Limit Carbs for Your Dog

There are times, however, when carbohydrate sources (including grains) in an individual dog’s diet are contraindicated. Dr. Wynn has seen some dogs thrive when switched from a high-carb or even a moderate-carb food, to a low-carb food.

“In the case of animals with chronic conditions of many types, the central problem may be a sick gut. We used to (and still do) call this a leaky gut, but more recently gastroenterologists have come to agree that the condition exists, and call it a hyperpermeable gut. Chronic inflammation of the gut may appear due to food allergy or less well understood inflammatory processes like inflammatory bowel disease. Even a transient gastroenteritis or antibiotic therapy can lead to inflammation of the gut lining.”

What’s all this got to do with carbohydrates? Dr. Wynn explains that chronic inflammation in the gut erodes the most superficial layers of the mucosal lining. This is the location of the cells that actively secrete enzymes and other products that aid in normal digestion, absorption, and even immunity.

When the most superficial layer of the gut is eroded away due to inflammation, it is possible that mature digestive enzymes  are lost. Disaccharides – a product of digestion of complex carbohydrates in the stomach and upper intestine – flow down into the small intestine where enzymes usually further digest them into an easily absorbed form. If the disaccharide form remains, it is not absorbed and pulls water into the intestine, resulting in loose stool or diarrhea.

The problem is compounded the longer it exists, with carbohydrate malabsorption leading to increased bacterial fermentation, causing gas and discomfort. Bacterial overgrowth can itself lead to diarrhea.

If amidst all this, the dog is switched to a grain-free or low carbohydrate diet, he just might eventually improve. Dr. Wynn’s caution is that grains often get the blame, when, in fact, it was outside insult to the gut that was most likely at the root of the problem. “While allergy may or may not be a component of the reaction seen when grains are fed to these animals, the carbohydrate overload seems to be a bigger problem,” she says.

“The good news is this: these ‘allergies’ aren’t permanent, unless the patient has a genetic disaccharidase deficiency (which is very uncommon in dogs and cats). In general, balancing the bacterial populations with probiotics, changing the diet so that it contains lower carbohydrate levels and sometimes different proteins, and addressing the cause of the initial bowel inflammation is all that is needed.

“Whether or not the owner wants to go back to feeding a diet higher in carbohydrates depends on other factors, like owner philosophy, financial capacity to buy the more expensive meat products, and whether the dog has a weight problem. Temporary carbohydrate intolerance is different from real food allergies,” says Dr. Wynn.

Low-carbohydrate diets are sometimes recommended for dogs with diabetes and cancer. Clinical trials run by Gregory Ogilvie, DVM, DACVIM, suggest that a low-carbohydrate, high-fat diet containing fish oil and arginine accelerated time to remission in lymphoma patients and may extend the disease-free interval. But if the canine cancer patient is obese, Dr. Wynn adds, a slightly different approach might be needed; her preference is to opt for a lower fat protein, such as tofu, often along with a small amount of a starch, plenty of vegetables, supplemented with the appropriate vitamins and minerals.

Gluten-induced enteropathy or celiac disease, a genetic, chronic inflammatory disease of the small intestine, affects humans. An analogous disorder has been identified in some lines of Irish Setters and is suspected to affect other breeds as well, although not studied. Affected animals develop small bowel diarrhea, weight loss, and poor condition after being fed a diet that includes gluten, a protein substance found in some grains, including wheat, barley, rye, and triticale; whether oats are contraindicated is debatable.

In the Irish Setters studied, gluten-sensitive enteropathy was found to be a familial (genetic) condition and began to manifest itself at roughly 4 to 6 months of age. Feeding a gluten-free diet resolved the symptoms. A few gluten-free sources of carbohydrate include potato, rice, soy, amaranth, quinoa, and buckwheat.

Methods for Considering Carb Content in Your Dog’s Diet

Few dog food labels list the food’s carbohydrate content (it’s not legally required to be on the label). If it’s not there, Drs. Delaney and Perea suggest calling the pet food company and asking for the food’s “caloric distribution.” This will tell you the percentage of the calories in the food that are attributable to its protein, its fat sources, and its carbohydrates. That is, if the company’s representatives are able or authorized to give you this information. (The range of professionalism among pet food company customer service representatives is astounding.)

To roughly calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in a food, look at the guaranteed analysis on the label, and subtract the protein, fat, moisture, and ash content from 100 percent. (You may have to contact the manufacturer or look at its website to get the ash content; it’s not required on the label.) The remainder is an approximate percentage of carbs in the diet, and includes the food’s crude fiber.

The maximum amount of crude fiber — the insoluble portion of the food’s fiber, with no nutritional value — is required on pet food labels. Some foods have similar total carbohydrates, but divergent crude fiber percentages. A relatively high crude fiber percentage might signal low-quality fiber sources (the infamous “fillers”), or indicate the food maker’s intent to provide so-called “satisfying, but low-calorie fiber” — or both.

– Nancy Kerns

Since Drs. Delaney and Perea were the veterinary nutritionists who recommended asking about the “caloric distribution” of various foods, and they work for Natura Pet Products, it was not surprising that when we called the Natura customer service line and asked for the caloric distribution of its grain-free Evo Turkey & Chicken Formula dry dog food, we promptly received that information: calories from protein: 39.5%; calories from fat: 502%; calories from carbohydrates: 10.4%.

Note that some companies cannot or simply do offer this information for their foods.

100% Nutritional contents
– 42% protein
– 22% fat
– 10% moisture
– 11.7% ash
= 14.3% carb

Next, we wanted to calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in the same food. The label doesn’t list ash, so we had to look that up on the Natura website. Then, using the rest of the info from the product label, we subtracted the percentage of protein, fat, moisture and ash from 100 percent. The remainder is the approximate amount of carbohydrate in the food.

It’s interesting to compare the amount of carbs in foods meant for different purposes; it’s also interesting to compare the percentage of a food’s crude fiber to its carb content. Using the same rough method as above, we calculated the percentage of carbohydrates
in foods with a range of carb content. The first two are grain-free.

ADULT DOG DRY FOOD APPROXIMATE CARB % % CRUDE FIBER
Evo (grain free, turkey & chicken) 14.3 2.5
Blue Buffalo (grain free, chicken) 32.0 6.5
Castor & Pollux Ultramix 41.9 3.0
Mulligan Stew (fish recipe) 46.0 8.0
Hill’s r/d (prescription weight loss, low calorie) 46.7 11.9
Avo Derm (large breed, chicken & brown rice) 47.5 3.5
Purina Veterinary Diets OM (prescription weight loss) 47.7 16.0
Eukanuba Naturally Wild (salmon & rice) 48.0 4.0
Hill’s Nature’s Best (chicken & brown rice) 50.5 3.5
Eukanuba Weight Control 54.7 4.0

An Individual Decision

Dr. Wynn doesn’t approve of diets formulated with high concentrations of carbohydrates simply to limit the cost of feeding the dog. But she does believe that there is no reason to expressly avoid carbs unless an individual dog has a specific intolerance to them or some condition that requires the use of a diet that is low in carbohydrates.

Remember that “the best diet” is an individual matter. Your friend’s strategy for feeding her Golden Retriever won’t necessarily be the best for your Golden. Read labels, understand what you’re feeding, research the manufacturer if feeding a commercial product, and feed the highest quality food that your budget can handle. Like everything we do with our dogs, pay attention to what your dog’s telling you, and after you pick up the food bowl each day, let your dog and his health determine what’s best for him.

Thanks to Dr. Wynn for allowing WDJ to borrow from her Pet Health and Nutrition blog.

SHOULD DOGS EAT CARBS? OVERVIEW

1. “Listen” to your dog! Skin, coat, eyes, stool, regurgitation/vomiting, energy, behavior, and urinalysis/bloodwork are all indicators of whether what you’re feeding is working.

2. Don’t banish carbohydrates from your dog’s diet without understanding why you’re doing so.

3. When feeding carbs, feed high quality sources such as whole grains, fruits, and vegetables.

4. If and when you make a dietary change, document it well: make a list of what was in the previous food, what’s in the new one, and compare.

Freeland writer Lisa Rodier is K9 Nosework enthusiast who lives in Kingston, Rhode Island, with her husband and their Bouvier, Atle.

Learning how to teach a puppy class has taught me this: Learning can be stressful!

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Have you, in recent years, tried to learn something that was completely new, in a public setting? Such as taking a dance lesson, a language course, or being asked to solve a problem on the chalkboard, in front of the class? How did it feel to get something wrong, to perform poorly?

I’ve been trying something new lately (teaching a single puppy kindergarten class, under the supervision of a much more experienced trainer) and one night, I felt like I did a poor job. I was tired, and got a little manic, I think. I talked too much and had the class do too little. I was beating myself up about it afterward, when my trainer friend, very mildly agreed with my self-assessment. If I was a dog, in terms of a “correction,” it was maybe equivalent of a squinty expression or a soft word in a disappointed tone from the handler – most dogs wouldn’t even notice it! And yet, I found myself awash with feelings of frustration and remorse. I found myself dreading the next class. I thought about giving up.

Okay, I admit it: If I was a dog, I’d probably be a neurotic, sensitive, longing-to-be-perfect Border Collie. I feel extremely uncomfortable when I find myself in a situation in which I cannot immediately excel.

And then I thought: How much do our dogs feel exactly like this, when we take them to public places (especially those packed with other dogs) and ask them to perform? And even if they are never punished, if they don’t excel – and so aren’t treated with expressions of the utmost of appreciation and delight – how do they feel about going back for more? Suddenly I understood why agility dogs sometimes leave the course, even though they love running agility at home.

Maybe this is too much anthropomorphizing. But the thought keeps coming back to me: I can see why dogs sometimes “opt out” of training. It’s stressful to be put on the spot, expected to learn something new, to perform in front of others, and in the process, to fail to get it right (at least some of the time, because nobody is perfect!).  And this thought has made me want to try even harder to learn to teach others to train their dogs in the most fun – and truly “error-free” – way possible.

(Home-Prepared Raw Dog Food Diets #1) Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs, Part Two: Raw Diets

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There are three basic rules to feeding a homemade diet: variety, balance over time, and calcium. The best source of calcium is Raw Meaty Bones.

Raw Meaty Bones should make up 30 to 50 percent (one third to one half) of the total diet, or possibly a little more if the parts you feed have a great deal more meat than bone (e.g., whole chickens or rabbits). The natural diet of the wolf in the wild contains 15 percent bone or less, based on the amount of edible bone in the large prey animals they feed upon. While a reasonable amount of raw bone won’t harm an adult dog, more than 15 percent is not needed and reduces the amount of other valuable foods that can be fed.

Too much bone can also cause constipation, and the excess calcium can block the absorption of certain minerals. The stools of raw fed dogs are naturally smaller and harder than those fed commercial foods, and often turn white and crumble to dust after a few days. If the stools come out white and crumbly, or if your dog has to strain to eliminate feces, you should reduce the amount of bone in his diet.

For more information on Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs, purchase any of Whole Dog Journal’s ebooks on the subject:

Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs: Raw Diets.

Or purchase the entire series

Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs: Complete Series.

Was Your Dog Sprayed by a Skunk? Here’s How To Get That Smell Out!

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[Updated May 12, 2017]

Skunks, skunks, skunks! Half a dozen of my friends have reported skunk/dog encounters in the past WEEK! These usually happen late at night, when the dog goes out for his last potty of the night before bedtime . . . and suddenly the whole family is wide, wide awake and facing an odoriferous emergency. What to do?

First, and most important: DO NOT BATHE THE DOG! Or pour tomato juice on him, or any of the other home remedies you’ve heard about. But DO check your cupboards for a quart of hydrogen peroxide (it’s usually found in most medicine cabinets in a pint size. If you have two pints, or one pint and a small dog, you’re in luck.).

You’ll want to do this as quickly as possible – both because it works best on the fresh, unoxidized compounds in the skunk “spray”, and because you’ll be suffering in the meantime. If the dog has been bathed, or even just rinsed with water, it’s not quite as effective as it would have been with fresh skunk spray. If the spray is fresh, it’s like magic, but it’s actually just good science.

Mix your quart of regular 3% hydrogen peroxide in a bowl or bucket with 1/4 cup of baking soda. This will start fizzing and bubbling (which is why one can’t pre-make the formula and store it in a bottle). Add about a teaspoon of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid; it helps distribute the stuff around the dog’s hair. Wet the dog thoroughly with the mixture, sponging carefully around the face. Most dogs’ faces will be badly skunked, so you really want to wet the face, but don’t get it in their eyes or nose, because it stings.

You’ll notice an immediate cessation of the skunk smell. Skunk spray contains a substance known as a “thiol” – an organosulfur compound that contains a sulfur-hydrogen bond. Many thiols have a repulsive and potent odor (at least to humans); thiols are said to be detectable by the human nose at concentrations of only 10 parts per billion. But the compounds can be immediately altered into odor-free neutral substances by making oxygen molecules (provided by the fresh hydrogen peroxide/baking soda mix) bond with and chemically alter the thiols.

After the dog is thoroughly wetted with the mixture, and every trace of the scent is gone, then rinse the dog with water, or bathe him with water and shampoo, to rinse off the mixture (which can irritate and dry his skin if left on).

I’ve used the mixture on my dog Otto twice; both events happened last year at about this time. He’s gotten a lot smarter, and now recognizes skunks as bad mojo; he won’t chase or approach them any more! But his Jack Russell Terrier “cousin” (my sister’s dog), has been skunked at least once annually for each of his 14 years. Owners of this type of dog are well-advised to buy quarts of hydrogen peroxide and keep them on hand at all times!

(The Importance of Dog Grooming and Canine Skin Care #2) The Importance of Dog Grooming and Canine Skin Care – Cold Weather Factors

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The primary function of the dog’s hair is as a protective and insulating coating.

But if the eyes are the gateway or the window to the soul, the skin and hair are both gateway and window to the embodiment of an animal’s inner health and well-being. Shiny hair, that is, a hair coat that exudes a healthy and lustrous sheen, is an indicator of overall health of the animal. In contrast, a dull coat that lacks luster is an indicator that the animal isn’t as healthy as she could be.

Breeds and individuals within every breed shed and regrow hair at varying rates. Dogs who live indoors, with little exposure to natural light or cold temperatures, tend to shed in a more or less continuous fashion.

In contrast, dogs who live outside, exposed to natural light and cold temperatures, are more likely to shed for several weeks in the spring and fall. In the fall, their short, light coats shed as they grow a thick, warm undercoat and long, weather-resistant guard hairs to prepare them for winter. In the spring, the winter coat is shed to make way for new, shorter, and lighter coats. The hair coat changes in appearance and texture but the absolute numbers of hair follicles and hair do not.

For more information on what your dog’s skin and coat are telling you, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Healthy Skin & Coat.

(An Introduction to Home-Prepared Diet #1) An Introduction to Home-Prepared Diet

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People whose dogs suffered from seizures, IBD and other digestive disorders, allergies (both food and environmental), skin problems, chronic ear infections, arthritis, and more have seen their dogs’ symptoms reduced or eliminated after they began feeding a homemade diet.

At first, it seems counterintuitive that a diet change would affect disorders like environmental allergies, seizures, or arthritis, but there are several factors involved. Poor-quality and overprocessed ingredients, artificial colors and preservatives, hormones, antibiotics, and other chemicals can contribute to overall ill-health and create or increase allergic sensitivity.

Carbohydrates that are often 50 percent or more of dry dog foods are harder to digest than animal proteins and can lead to inflammation in the body.

In contrast, homemade canine diets, particularly those that have few or no grains or starchy carbs, are higher in protein (which supports both the skin and the immune system) and are easier to digest (which can improve the health of the digestive tract and keep the body’s immune system from becoming overreactive).

Letters: September 2010

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STONE-FREE DALS

I wanted to comment on “Guaranteed Stone-Free Dalmatians? Yes!” (WDJ June 2010). I was there in the early 1980s with Dr. Bob Schaible, and the renowned veterinary geneticist, Dr. Donald Patterson, when we were asked by the AKC to come to a round table informal meeting about the latest in genetic diseases of dogs and associated diagnostics etc. The meeting resulted in a series of articles (“Pure Bred Dogs,” AKC Gazette, 1982, volume 99).

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I wrote about the inherited bleeding diseases (Dodds, W J., “Detection of genetic defects by screening programs,” AKC Gazette 99:56-60, 1982). In the same issue, Don Patterson wrote about heritable cardiac disease, and Bob Schaible told his remarkable story about the Dalmatian x Pointer cross and the back crosses that were uric acid stone-free but still looked identical to Dalmatians phenotypically.

I was horrified to learn that subsequently the Dalmatian Club of America refused to acknowledge the registration of Bob’s fourth generation back cross, thereby setting back the health of this breed for decades to come. This was pure ignorance on behalf of the Dalmatian Club’s membership – to even think that pure bred dogs were indeed “pure” and had not evolved over time by selective breeding by humans, rather than randomly in nature! I remember that Bob was bitter over this folly at the time, and I don’t blame him one bit.

It is with great triumph at last that his will to save the breed from this condition has finally been accepted. Bravo!

W. Jean Dodds, DVM,
Hemopet / Hemolife
Garden Grove, CA

A GIFT

Thank you so much for such a wonderful and informative publication! We have subscribed for many years and I have never before taken the time to say thanks. We share our home with three dogs; two adopted through Petfinder.com and one stray. Although all of your issues cover pertinent topics, your recent issues have been especially helpful.

After reading your article about canine rehabilitation (“Saying ‘No’ to Surgery,” WDJ February 2010), we took our oldest dog to University of Tennessee’s rehab department and this has been really beneficial. Of course, my favorite column is Pat Miller’s; she has shared so much great training advice over the years. Your articles on canine diets have also been very helpful. We follow Mary Straus’ recommendations and add supplements that you have suggested.

Also, I thought you might be interested to know that one of our dogs (a GSD mix, not a Dalmatian) had a urate stone and has been on the low-purine Billinghurst diet for the past three years. This diet has worked really well for her and she has had no recurrence of crystals/stones.

I always give WDJ as a gift whenever a friend adopts a dog. Many thanks for helping us keep our dogs healthy and happy!

Michelle Wolf,
Via email

SHAVING SHAME

I must say I was shocked to see Whole Dog Journal sporting a shaved dog chained up on the cover of the July 2010 issue. Then the same picture on page two. This picture is by no means a pretty picture; a dog chained with a tie out stake, no shelter, food, or water plus the dog is shaved down to the bare skin, with no protection from the sun or heat. I realize this is just a picture displaying a shaved dog, but please a little more humane example. This dog has been shaved down to the skin, no protection from the sun/rain/brush/stickers etc.

So despite the good will in the article, please advocate getting hair somewhere else besides dogs. Many dog grooming salons advocate clipping dogs in summer just for their own profit margin.

Patricia Bloom,
Miami, Florida

We received a couple dozen letters like Patricia’s regarding that photo. Allow me to apologize for failing to caption the photo with a warning that dogs should never be shaved to the skin, as that Golden was, even for a good cause! Dogs need their coats! The article suggested only that groomers should be encouraged to donate the hair from their regular work to oil cleanup nonprofit groups.

But let me also say that it’s easy to take details in a photo out of context. I took that photo of the Golden on the sidelines of an evening sports practice. He was a sweet, older house dog, troubled by thyroid problems, who had a hard time regulating his temperature. During that hot summer, his owners decided to try to clip his excessively thick coat to help him cool down (he was hot even in their air-conditioned home). They tried to do it themselves, and botched the job badly enough that they felt their only recourse was to shave him all the way down. Of course they should have taken him to a groomer for a trace clip and coat thinning instead.

But his owners never took him out in the sun (we were in full shade), and only walked him outdoors in the evening after sunset. He was staked on the sidelines of our game so he could be close to his owners, he had water, and there was always at least one player on the sidelines petting him!

THE GOOD, AND BAD

I just read your editor’s note about vets and vaccines (“Something Is Not Right,” August 2010). Apparently the clinic you go to is still in the dark ages. I’ve been going to my clinic since the early 1980s and (what you described) certainly was the attitude during the 80s and 90s. But I’ve been getting titers on my Gordon Setters for several years, and now that I work at the front desk of the very same clinic, I find that more people are savvy about over-vaccinating and asking questions about issues with their pets.

Our vets are not “vaccine happy” either, recommending “routine” vaccinations every three years. We haven’t jumped on the canine influenza bandwagon although now most kennels in our area require it (maybe you should do an editorial on kennels who demand bordetella and influenza vaccines for all boarding there).

Because of the economy, more people are opting not to visit, even after the infamous post card is received. But we are also aware that more clients are noticing issues like lumps, hot spots, or their pets “not acting themselves.” As a receptionist, I don’t make the decision for the client, I only tell them what their pet is due to have, which includes heartworm testing and fecal exams. More and more clients are aware of what is needed and what is not necessary. We have very few clients who wander in clueless and we certainly don’t automatically vaccinate a pet who is obviously ill or compromised in any way. Our vets and vet techs are much more observant and caring than that.

I thoroughly enjoy WDJ and follow it on Facebook too.

Jani Wolstenholme,
Rhode Island

It was easy to live in the modern age of veterinary medicine when I lived in the San Francisco Bay Area, with a wealth of enlightened veterinarians all around me. But just 150 miles north, it’s still the “Dark Ages” (though I did find a good practice with modern vets about 25 miles away). I’m not alone; I received many notes about similar situations, such as this one:

I work at a veterinary clinic, and have for the past 18 years. The short answer to your question about why vaccines are pushed aggressively but needed care is not? It is the profit margin. For example, a dose of rabies vaccine for a dog costs about $2. Clients are charged $24, and it takes about two minutes of the vet’s time (if that). Compare that to a blood test; in most cases, the profit to the vet is not even twice its cost, and the tests are very time consuming to run. Which is easier and more profitable?

Honestly, it makes me sick because I’ve seen the same exact thing that you mentioned in your editor’s note about the old dog that clearly had health issues. Many of these older pets come back a few short weeks after being vaccinated with a dire health concern (in my opinion probably triggered by the vaccine).

Name withheld by request

A BETTER CONE

You just about always get it right – but not this time. Regarding “A Better Cone” (WDJ August 2010), I have to take great issue with one of your main points about the ProCollar. I have absolutely no affiliation whatsoever with ProCollar; I am just a doggy mom to a huge harlequin Great Dane named Harley. I have done my homework, having gone through virtually every single product on the market to find the best cone-alternative for Harley’s post-surgical use.

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Unfortunately, you made a totally incorrect assumption based on Rickey’s experience when you made the comment, “Truly large dogs would not be able to use this product.” Absolutely untrue! Harley is a huge boy – 150 pounds. The XL size of ProCollar fit him perfectly, no problem. And, because I was so happy with this collar compared to cones (and all the other alternatives) I suggested it to my Dane friends, who also have been using it with great success with their Great Danes. I never took a pic of Harley when he was wearing his ProCollar, but here is a photo of him so that you can at least get an idea of his size.

Ricky, while only 25 pounds, appears to have a heavy, long-haired coat. Danes, of course, do not. Neither do many other giant breed dogs, on whom the XL ProCollar would, and does, fit just great.
Thanks for your terrific WDJ!

Cary Glassner Rauscher,
Medway, MA

NEW CONSIDERATIONS

hanks for the good info in this article! The one thing missing is noting that some dogs may need a rigid collar, like my dog, who just had both eyes removed.

Linda Wroth,
Richmond, California

I never considered a condition that required a cone to provide eye protection, even though it’s apparently common (see next letter). Thanks for your feedback!

There are some instances in which one of the alternative collars (other than the Kong E-Collar) mentioned in your article would not be appropriate. I have a dog that recently had delicate (and expensive) eye surgery to remove a luxated lens. It was absolutely critical that she not rub her eye afterwards, on anything. Not only was her vision at stake, but the eye itself.

While they do generally prevent a dog from licking or chewing anywhere on their body, any of the soft collars do not prevent a dog from rubbing their eyes or face on other objects, or scratching at their face with a hind foot. Unfortunately, a stiff cone is the only type I am aware of that protects a dog’s eyes or face.

So while your statement that “Alternatives to classic ‘Elizabethan’ collars are more comfortable and just as effective for your dog” is technically true with the inclusion of the Kong E-Collar, your readers should be very aware that not all the alternatives are always as effective or appropriate, and there are definitely situations where a stiff cone (whether a traditional one or the more comfortable Kong version) are the only kind that will do the job.

I would also like to suggest that any dogs who do wear a stiff E-Collar of any variety see a veterinary chiropractor, physical therapist, or massage therapist afterwards. There is no question that bumping into things and twisting their necks repeatedly while wearing the stiff collars can take a toll on their cervical spine and musculature.

Thank you so much for all you do to improve the lives of so many dogs!

Sidney Hoblit,
West Grove, PA

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How Dog Fostering Can Break Your Heart!

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Knowing that I’m in and out of my local shelter, a friend of my husband asked me to keep my eyes peeled for a “cute little dog for a cute little girl” – his five-year-old daughter. I spotted a great candidate, and brought her home to foster her until I could evaluate whether she would be appropriate for a family with young children.

I know that any dog I bring home from the shelter is going to live with me until I find him or her a perfect home. I knew it wouldn’t take long to find this darling girl a home, even if she didn’t work out for the family who asked me to look. In addition to being smart and confident, she is affectionate and snuggly. I gave the family my evaluation – that she would make a great little family dog – and they agreed to take her. But the custody change would take place in a couple of weeks, so she could be spayed and recover from the surgery, and so they could take a week-long vacation.

But oh my! How difficult it was to actually hand her over to her new family! I’ve fostered about five times now, and I’ve always been happy to see a dog go to a terrific home. But somehow, this little pup pulled my heartstrings like no other pup has so far. We really bonded, and I adored her. I spent almost two hours at the family’s home, going over all the things the puppy knew – the things I had taught her! – and making sure they had everything she needed to be safe and comfortable. Then I had to practically run out the door and drive quickly away so they wouldn’t see me burst into tears! I cried for an hour after leaving her, stopped long enough to have a nice phone conversation with the dad about how things went after I left, and then cried on and off again for the next two days. I miss that pup!

Happily, her new family seems to love her as much as I did. The little girl named her Belle, after her favorite Disney heroine, and Belle sleeps on the little girl’s bed. But I still don’t think I can foster again for a long time.

(Destructive Chewing #1) Ways to Prevent and Cure Destructive Chewing

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Puppies are notorious for their ability to chew on anything and everything. If you’re at all dog-savvy you know when you get a new puppy that despite your best efforts to manage and supervise, you’re likely to lose at least one valuable personal possession to the razor-sharp implements known fondly as puppy teeth.

Puppies chew to explore their world as well as to relieve the pain and irritation of teething. What many dog owners don’t seem to realize is that while puppies sooner or later get beyond the stage where they feel compelled to put their teeth on everything they see, mature dogs also need to chew to exercise their jaws, massage their gums, clean their teeth, and to relieve stress and boredom. It comes as an unpleasant surprise to many owners that chewing doesn’t end at the age of six months when all of the dog’s adult teeth are grown in.

Puppies develop substrate preferences for elimination in the early months of their lives, and they similarly develop chew-object preferences. Hence the inadvisability of giving your old shoes or socks as chew toys.

If you give your baby dog the run of the house and he learns to chew on Oriental carpets, sofa cushions, and coffee table legs, you will likely end up with a dog who chooses to exercise his jaws and teeth on inappropriate objects for years to come. You’ll find yourself crating him frequently even as an adult dog, or worse, exiling him to a lonely life in the backyard, where he can chew only on lawn furniture, loose fence boards, and the edges of your deck and hot tub.

Instead, focus your dog’s fangs on approved chew toys at an early age and manage him well to prevent access to your stuff. In this way, he’ll earn house privileges much sooner in life. By the end of his first year, you’ll probably be able to leave him alone safely while you go out to dinner or shopping – or even while you’re away at work.

For more details and advice on ways to prevent and cure destructive chewing habits, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Simple Ways to Prevent and Cure Destructive Chewing.

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