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Vaccination and Canine Distemper Virus (CDV)

When we decided not to vaccinate Caleb, our Bouvier des Flandres, against anything other than rabies, my friend Janice and I knew we ran a risk that he might develop a dreaded disease. We also knew that vaccination doesn’t always protect against disease, and believed it sometimes causes illness. We felt the home-prepared BARF (bones and raw foods) diet we fed him would help his body fight off many health problems. Naturally, we hoped that Caleb would never come down with anything serious like canine distemper virus (CDV). But, when he was three years old, we had to face and overcome exactly that challenge.

Caleb’s dramatic recovery illustrates the theory that a healthy, well-nourished dog can overcome even a serious disease like CDV – if treated in time by appropriate holistic modalities and devoted home nursing. If we prepare ourselves ahead of time for deadly canine viruses, it can spell the difference between life and death – whether a dog is immunized or not.

The story of how we responded to Caleb’s ailment also illuminates how difficult it can be at times to manage a nonconventional response to your dog’s illness. Many dog owners are accustomed to simply bringing their dogs to their veterinarians, and taking all the vets’ suggestions for treatment. This may be the best approach if an owner has no information about or experience with the dog’s disease; you have to rely on experts you trust!

But in our experience, there are greater rewards for educating yourself before problems happen and working with healthcare experts to corroborate your research and decisions. We feel certain that Caleb would have died if treated with the conventional veterinary tactics for CDV. As I said before, we also felt the risks of vaccination against the disease were not worth the benefits.

Of course, there are risks to this approach as well. Only dog owners who are ready to accept full responsibility for making their own decisions should attempt a nonconventional response like ours.

Telling our distemper story, we hope, will demonstrate the potential risks and huge rewards of implementing a truly holistic healthcare plan for your dog.

Be alert and observant
Janice and I observed the earliest signs of what would prove to be Caleb’s CDV infection about a week before we planned to drive 1,500 miles from rural Ontario to visit a friend in Iowa.

To begin with, Caleb went off his food. Then he threw up and had diarrhea. His first vomit was yellowish and foamy, with what looked like saliva in it. The next few times it contained lots of clear fluid, again with foam on top. His diarrhea was even more unusual. It spurted out – projectile diarrhea. It, too, was yellow, and had a powerful, unusual odor.

At first, we speculated that he had eaten something rotten in our cedar swamp, where he loves to play and explore. When the problem persisted for a day, we discussed it with our veterinarian, Dr. Susan Gambling, who was not unduly alarmed, but advised us to keep watching him and keep her informed. As so often seems to be the case after a call or visit to a vet, the following morning, Caleb started eating again and seemed to have gotten over whatever it was.

Later, I read that the first stage of CDV can be hard to tell from other upsets. Not only that, but it tends to clear up temporarily, making it appear as if the dog is all right.

Four days later, on Monday, we loaded him into our van and left for our vacation. During the two-day drive and the rest of the week, Caleb ate normally. He showed an interest in my friend’s garden, her small Terrier-mix, and her two black cats. But I remained uneasy.

Connect the dots
As the week wore on, Caleb became strangely quiet. Then, on Saturday morning, about 10 days after his original bout of vomiting and diarrhea, his beautiful eyes stayed half shut and oozed green discharge.

Having used homeopathy since 1982, I thought it could help Caleb now. The right remedy must closely match the efforts of the individual’s immune system as revealed by her specific symptoms, regardless of which organisms play into her illness. I thought that the remedy pulsatilla suited Caleb’s discharge and emotional demeanor reasonably well, but the nearest source for the remedy was 50 miles away. We’d have to get it Monday, on our way home.

Then Caleb stopped eating again. By Sunday, he strained to defecate and his energy diminished. We were anxious to get home to Dr. Gambling and the holistic practitioners we sometimes consulted, including Paul McCutcheon, DVM, of East York Animal Clinic in Toronto. At this point, one might argue that we should have taken Caleb straight to the nearest vet. But in this case, as would become clear, the fact that we pushed on until we could reach holistic help almost undoubtedly saved Caleb’s life.

We hit the road for home first thing Monday. Caleb developed a dry, croupy cough and his nose started dripping. The word “distemper” kept coming into my mind as if someone was repeating it to me.

In Iowa City, I called a local vet, and asked whether he thought we should risk the two-day trip home or come for emergency assistance right away. I described Caleb’s symptoms. After he ruled out Parvo and Lyme disease, I asked if this could be distemper. He thought probably not, adding that dogs with distemper generally produce a profuse amount of thick, greenish or yellow discharge from their noses – “Like you’ve never seen before,” he described. “You couldn’t miss it.” He thought we could try to get home to our own vet.

As it turned out, the vet’s remark about identifying CDV by quantity and quality of nasal discharge would become one of two coincidences that contributed to Caleb’s diagnosis and recovery.

The second was that since Caleb was a pup, when reading up on canine diseases something drew me to study everything I could find on distemper in particular. Contrary to mainstream belief, holistic pet care books report hundreds of cures. I did not know then that this curious obsession would someday help to save my dog’s life.

Respond to symptoms
On the road again, mucous started rattling in Caleb’s lungs when he coughed. Green goo still trickled from his eyes, their whites moist and reddish. His breath began to exhibit an odd odor, which would become very strong over the next few days. Having no professional advisor, since pulsatilla still matched some of his symptoms, we bought and gave him some immediately. The potency available, C30, was a reasonable middle strength to try without a homeopath’s guidance.

At our motel that night, Caleb’s cough got worse and he couldn’t get comfortable. We gave him more pulsatilla. We phoned Dr. Gambling at midnight, when she was scheduled to be on call. What alarmed her most was his restlessness. She said if he didn’t settle down within a couple of hours to go to the nearest emergency facility. I found a 24-hour rural vet nearby, and left the yellow pages open with the number handy.

But when we heard thunder, we understood Caleb’s uneasiness. Like many dogs, Caleb becomes agitated hours before an electrical storm. We gave him rock rose, a flower essence remedy, after which he slept quietly. That the storm had caused his anxiety showed us that even when a dog is desperately ill, some symptoms may have unrelated causes.

On Tuesday morning, Caleb’s eyes cleared up completely, as did his cough – a typical positive response to a well-chosen homeopathic remedy. We’d realize later that early homeopathic support may have helped prevent CDV complications of pneumonia, which dogs don’t survive as well as people do, and conjunctivitis. Caleb improved for awhile, but had diarrhea, with straining, later that afternoon. We offered him chicken broth, but he would not drink it.

That night, he threw up thin yellow bile with flecks of bloody mucous. His breath and body smelled caustic and sour, with an almost salty quality. This odor is characteristic of CDV, but I needed my books to remind me of that, and they were at home, still another 350 miles away.

At one point that evening, Caleb rolled onto his back, and we saw that his belly was red and irritated. This would become another clue. Closely related to human red measles, CDV often causes an abdominal rash. But we didn’t yet identify Caleb’s rash since he frequently gets a pink underside when bothered by allergies or fleas. The definitive red spots wouldn’t appear for two more days.

Caleb had diarrhea again on Wednesday morning, although there wasn’t much left in him. Immediately afterward, he seemed weak and wanted to be in the open air.

I phoned our veterinary clinic in Cobourg, Ontario, and made an appointment for 4 p.m. We started the final six hour drive. In spite of our reassuring manner with Caleb, we were shaken and relieved to be nearing home.

Dr. Gambling was off duty, so her associate saw Caleb. He had a fever of 103.6°F. Diarrhea had made his anus sore, his nose dripped, and he was subdued. His urine was dark and greenish; the clinic found albumin in it. But protein breakdown is typical when someone hasn’t eaten for days, so that didn’t tell us much.

It didn’t occur to us then to mention that we hadn’t inoculated Caleb against the usual infections. Dr. Gambling would have known, but she wasn’t there. Maybe we assumed her associates would be aware of Caleb’s history, or perhaps we were too stressed to think clearly. But the missed moment shows that even the experts won’t think of everything! The idea that responsible owners might not have vaccinated may not cross the mind of a vet unfamiliar with holistic thinking. And, these days, due in large part to mass immunization, vets may not see infections like distemper for years. Newer ones may know it only from a textbook.

The vet took blood to send to a lab to look for various possibilities, but did not request a test for CDV. However, even if she had, waiting for a diagnosis would have wasted precious time. CDV advances aggressively, ravaging tissues until it can kill a dog or permanently disrupt its neurological system. The sooner caretakers take action, the better the dog’s chances; not only of survival, but of a good recovery.

Feeling a sense of urgency, we took Caleb home. There, I reread my holistic books about canine viruses, their symptoms, and treatments. By the next day, I’d be glad I’d refreshed myself about what information I had and how to find it fast.

Emotional affects
During the night, Caleb’s breathing became so congested that every inhalation sounded like snoring. At 5 a.m. Thursday, Caleb asked to go out into the darkness of our fenced property. We decided to trust his instinct about what he needed. Maybe the cool autumn air would ease his breathing.

Then, in order to support him best, Janice and I faced our own fears. We felt powerless and scared. But we didn’t want our need to make him well to compromise our ability to help him. Nor did we want him to feel that he must pull through for our sake. And we certainly didn’t want him to redirect his energy into being anxious because we were upset, as dogs will do.

Recognizing this, we resolved to work toward the best possible outcome while acknowledging that it was not ultimately in our hands. If it was his will to survive, we would assist him. If not, we would try to accept that with grace.

At 7 a.m., I found Caleb down near the pond. He wobbled up to meet me and we sat down together on the grass. Then, something astonishing happened. He nodded his head toward me companionably, and a spoonful of creamy yellow liquid gushed out and covered his nose.

The Iowa vet’s words came back to me. I knew right away that Caleb had distemper. Instead of panic, I felt relief. Now, we knew what was wrong and that something could be done. No need to waste any more time not acting.

Dr. Gambling was on duty that morning. Caleb’s nostrils oozed steadily. His fever was 104°F, and his belly had the measles-like spots. All these signs plus his breath and body odor now clearly indicated stage two of an acute distemper infection, as can hardening of the pads of the feet, which he never developed.

Dr. Gambling took another blood sample, this time for the CDV test. Janice and I said we would take Caleb home and treat him ourselves with natural remedies, and Dr. Gambling got right behind us, acknowledging that such methods would offer Caleb’s best, if not only, hope. “In veterinary school,” she said, “they teach us that when it’s distemper, dogs just . . .” She made the thumbs-down sign to finish her sentence, and added that while conventional medicine can treat CDV, it cannot cure it.

Mainstream response
Medical intervention for CDV generally consists of hospitalizing the dog and intravenously giving fluids, antibiotics, and possibly other drugs or nutrients. This is meant to prevent dehydration, complications like pneumonia, and keep up the dog’s strength. The virus then runs its course.

If the dog survives, she often goes into stage three of the disease, involving encephalitis of the brain or spinal cord. The resulting neurological damage leaves chronic symptoms such as chorea (uncontrollable twitching or jerking) or seizures, during which the dog may cry out. Some vets and dog lovers believe it kinder to put CDV-infected dogs down rather than risk the devastation of stage three.

However, other vets caution against putting CDV dogs on IV fluids. Holistic veterinarian and author Richard Pitcairn, for example, writes that dogs given antibiotics, fluids, and other drugs are more likely to develop stage three than those treated with natural methods. Both Dr. Pitcairn and herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy speculate that such measures impede the dog’s ability to throw off the virus. De Bairacli Levy believes that feverish dogs must fast to divert energy from their digestive processes to fight disease.

And Dr. McCutcheon (the holistic vet-erinarian we often consulted via long-distance call) emphasizes that both being kept in hospital away from her family and enduring invasive procedures significantly increases the stress of a dog who is already terribly ill.

Holistic possibilities
As soon as we got Caleb comfortably settled in our house, we turned to our home library and developed a treatment plan from several different sources. The following are the things we read, and how we applied them:

Vitamin C injections: From How to Have a Healthier Dog, by Wendell O. Belfield, DVM, and Martin Zucker, we learned how Dr. Belfield helped hundreds of dogs with CDV recover by intravenously injecting them with therapeutic doses of vitamin C twice a day for five days. Dr. Belfield recommends the sodium ascorbate form of vitamin C for dogs.

However, sodium ascorbate can be hard to find. We had some in the form of a dietary supplement, but it was not sterile for injections. Dr. Gambling phoned Dr. Belfield, who agreed to ship her some and instruct her how to use it, but delivery from his California clinic would take until Monday to get to us – four dangerously long days away. Instead, we chose to give Caleb vitamin C orally.

Fasting and medicinal herbs: European herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy claims she oversaw at least a thousand cures of CDV with fewer than a dozen cases sustaining neurological damage. (This is described in her book, The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat.) She bases her approach around fasting, and warns that offering food while fever remains above 103°F predisposes a dog toward neurological damage.

In her book, de Bairacli Levy also describes giving dogs with CDV herbal antiseptic tablets or grated raw garlic and honey two to three times per day; honey-water to supply strength; fresh air; short walks for movement of limbs; and a mixture of tree barks to soothe the digestive tract. She also uses an infusion of rosemary, elder flowers, chickweed, speedwell, and/or balm to swab the dog’s eyes and nose, and applies pure almond oil to sore nostrils or eyes. She believes that early treatment will prevent stage three altogether, and advises that owners carefully reintroduce food to a dog after she has been fasting.

Caleb was fasting anyway; we’d withhold food until his temperature was normal for a day. In the meantime, we offered him wild honey water, gave him balls of garlic and honey mash, and bathed his nose and back end with rosemary infusion. As he recovered, we gave him slippery elm powder for his digestive tract. When the time was right, we gave him small amounts of mashed veggies first, easing him gradually back onto meats and his regular supplements.

Classical homeopathy: In his classic book, Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, now in its third edition, Richard Pitcairn, DVM, lists six of many possible homeopathic remedies for different stages and symptoms of CDV, advising using a choice of only one. He also suggests dosages of vitamin C as an adjunct.

Having used homeopathy for more than 16 years, I knew it was effective and the remedies were easy to obtain. In this life-and-death situation, we’d want an experienced homeopath to choose the right remedy for Caleb, and we knew Dr. McCutcheon’s clinic would consult long-distance. So, homeopathy would be the hub of our plan. Pitcairn also inspired the dosage of vitamin C we gave Caleb orally: 3,000 mg three times per day.

Acupuncture: In her book, Keep Your Pet Healthy the Natural Way, Pat Lazarus gathered testimonials from holistic vets who use either vitamin C injections or acupuncture to cure or control effects of stage three of CDV, such as seizures and chorea. Some vets inject vitamin C or B12 into acupuncture points. As it turned out, Caleb did not develop stage three complications. If he had, we would have researched these options further.

Applying the treatment plan
Right after Dr. Gambling confirmed Caleb’s clinical signs of CDV, we phoned Lisa Formosa, DSHomMed, the homeopath who works with Dr. McCutcheon at East York Animal Clinic in Toronto. Formosa took details of Caleb’s physical symptoms, then asked about his emotions and energy level. Was he depressed and flat? Did he want to be left alone? Caleb wasn’t like that. He watched us and acknowledged a greeting when we approached. Although he was physically weak, his energy wasn’t completely diminished.

Based on these and many other factors, Formosa recommended the remedy distemperinum, which is made from the discharge of dogs already sick with the distemper virus. Formosa said if Caleb had been deeply depressed and stage two even more established, she would have chosen homeopathic goldenseal, instead.

I was surprised. Dr. Pitcairn lists both remedies as candidates; yet even as an experienced lay person, I would have chosen goldenseal. Formosa’s explanation about dosage was new to me, too. She said Caleb’s relatively “up” energy level indicated that we start with 30C, because we didn’t want to “overwhelm” him with the higher intensity of 200C. If the lower potency had no effect, then she would recommend trying 200C. This shows why it’s wise, when possible, to get professional advice for serious problems!

We immediately contacted homeopathic pharmacies around the region, and ran into another challenge. They hadn’t even heard of the remedy distemperinum! Fortunately, the East York Animal Clinic kept some in stock. As Caleb had someone responsible at home to watch over him, I jumped in the car and drove the 80 miles to Toronto.

When I got back, I found Caleb resting on his loveseat on the porch and gave him his first dose. It was 6:30 p.m. By 7 p.m., his temperature had dropped to 102.4°F. Then, he howled like usual at a train whistling through the crossing a half mile away! We put chicken broth near him.

Formosa advised us that in classical homeopathy, caretakers administer a dose, then observe. As long as you see improvement, don’t dose again. You repeat the dose when improvement seems to stop. She said Caleb’s nasal discharge might first get worse, and reminded us that homeopathic theory views discharge as a good sign. Then she concluded calmly, “You should be all right.”

Janice and I worked out a schedule specifying what, when, and how much to give of every substance, and posted it on the kitchen cupboard. The final column gave space to check off each task when done. Our intention was to make sure we didn’t miss a beat, especially if we became too anxious to think straight. I started keeping a log on everything that happened. We dosed Caleb twice more that night.

Caleb’s recovery
Caleb came out of his illness as straight as an arrow.

On the second day of treatment, Caleb’s temperature was around 102.4°F. His nasal discharge loosened and flowed easily. On a short walk, he leaped a log (!) and later coughed to clear his lungs. He watched our kitchen activities keenly, and drank a half cup of broth. By mid-afternoon, he rested in his regular lookout spots in the yard, cruised the kitchen counters looking for food, and chased our cat away from his broth.

Once, when looking into his eyes, I sensed his energy drop and gave more distemperinum immediately. He came on strong again and got very hungry. We gave him a few tiny homemade biscuits, as a goodwill gesture. On my bed, he slept happily on his back!

On the third day of treatment, Caleb’s temperature averaged 101.8°. He took some broth with vitamin C and slippery elm in it, plus the honey-garlic mixture. He made a tiny bit of healthy poop. We dosed him again. His nasal discharge was once again clear and colorless.

At one point that day, Caleb caught my eye and placed his foot on the lid of his biscuit tub. When I refused to give him a biscuit, he ran off with my plastic clog. I gave him one small biscuit, and later, some mashed cooked carrot.

We could feel that he was going to be all right.

By day four, Caleb breathed silently through his nose and his rash had faded. As his temperature averaged 101.2°F, over the day we provided cooked grains, a few nuts, baked winter squash with kefir and parsley, another carrot, and grated raw cabbage. (Note: We have long since omitted grain from Caleb’s diet.) He wanted even more.

Things just kept getting better. Caleb’s former sweet breath started returning, and on day five, with his temperature at 100.2°, we offered him his first small portion of raw meat. By the eighth day, all the symptoms of CDV had gone and he was back on his full diet.

To rebuild his health, we added vitamin B complex to his diet, plus oat tincture several weeks later. We kept these up for months, as it takes a long time to rebuild a dog’s strength after CDV.

Finally, we reintroduced his daily supplements slowly as his ravaged digestive system became less sensitive.

When conventionally treated dogs survive CDV, neurological damage can show up weeks or even months later. Dr. Gambling told us that after three symptom-free months, we could announce Caleb’s recovery to the world. It’s now been seven years and counting.

Dr. Gambling also suggested eventually immunizing Caleb against CDV, since her in-office veterinary reference text says survivors maintain natural immunity for, at most, six months. Instead, we agreed to check his titers periodically. A vaccinated dog’s CDV antibody count is normally below 200. The minimum score thought to sustain immunity is 24; after vaccination, it averages 36-48. Caleb’s never-vaccinated titer, more than six years later, is 768.

Today, at 10, Caleb glows with better general health than most dogs his age. He’s a mischievous, shining, energetic testament to why we should feed dogs a natural diet and be well prepared beforehand lest a nasty virus tries to gain a foothold.

-Susan Weinstein is a freelance writer with a strong interest in animals and holistic healthcare. She is now working on a book about pets and stress with Paul McCutcheon, DVM. Weinstein and Caleb live with Janice Newson and Farida the Monster Cat in Grafton, Ontario.

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Runaway Dog: Preventing Your Dog From Escaping

Runaway dogs have a penchant for escaping, regardless of how secure they may seem.
Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

[Updated August 21, 2017]

RUNAWAY DOG OVERVIEW

– Make sure your fence is secure before you bring that new dog home. Even if it keeps your current dogs safely confined, a canine newcomer may have new talents that test your confinement system.

– Be careful any time you put your dog in a new containment area. Check the area first to ensure it is secure, and watch him after you put him in to be sure he’s not testing the fence.

– Consider the safest approach – always keep your dog indoors when you’re not home.

Otis the Bloodhound was an opportunistic runaway dog. I discovered his talent one day while working at the front desk at the Marin Humane Society, early in my animal protection career. A woman came in asking if we might know where a Bloodhound lived, because he kept visiting her house every day. He was charming, she said, but she worried that he might get hit by a car.

A Bloodhound owner myself at the time, I was curious where this errant Bloodhound might live; it’s not a very common breed. But when I asked the woman for her address, I was dismayed to hear she lived around the corner from me. Could it possibly be MY safely fenced dog who was making house calls around the neighborhood?

It was, indeed. Unbeknownst to me, Otis had discovered a hole in the fence behind some dense bushes. He waited every morning until I was gone, crawled out the hole, spent his day visiting neighbors, and returned home in time to greet me innocently at my back door.

I was lucky. Otis wasn’t a dedicated escape artist – a solid patch to the fence ended his wanderings. Other owners often work much harder to keep their canine fugitives safe at home.

Dogs Who Become Skilled Escape Artists

Roaming is an innate behavior for dogs. They are hunters and scavengers, and left to their own devices will wander a territory far larger than the average backyard. Escaping, however, is a learned behavior. Dogs who are given the opportunity to escape often do. Once they figure out how, they will try harder and harder, even when the fence is belatedly fortified. Dogs who become escape artists hone their skills to a fine edge. Keeping them safely confined at home where they belong can be a huge challenge. Our nation’s animal shelters are full of escape artists.

The best avenue for managing a dog’s wanderlust is to prevent him from wandering in the first place. The problem starts when you bring home the new puppy before you are fully prepared, promising to put up that fence before Rover grows up.

A tiny puppy won’t wander far from the back stoop, even when you leave him out on his own for a bit. Before you know it, though, Rover is six months old, already has a habit of making neighborhood rounds, and you still haven’t finished the fence. When Mr. Jones from down the road calls you up and threatens to shoot Rover if he chases his goats one more time, you rush to the hardware store to buy some metal fence posts and hog wire. Hastily you throw up a pen in the backyard that attaches to the back deck. “That should hold him until I get the rest of those post holes dug!” you think.

As you settle yourself back on the sofa to watch the last half of the football game, Rover is already testing the fence; he’s late for his daily visit to the Smith’s garbage can! He checks out the gate latch, but it doesn’t yield to his tentative pawing and gnawing. He trots around the inside of the enclosure, searching for a way out.

In the far corner he finds a three-inch gap between the wire and the ground and pokes his nose under. Getting his nose on the other side of the fence encourages him to try harder. He starts to worm his way under. The soft ground gives way beneath his claws. He digs harder. Before you can say “end zone,” he’s free, headed for the Smith’s omelet scraps and bacon drippings. You eventually retrieve him and fill the hole, but the damage is done. Rover is on his way to a lifetime career as a master escape artist.

Preferred Escape Methods Depend on the Dog’s Breed

Whether your dog’s escape efforts focus on tooth or claw or he excels in feats of aerial accomplishment depends both on genetics and learning. Dogs who are genetically programmed to dig, such as Terriers, are likely to burrow under the fence, especially if a handy soft spot presents itself.

If, however, the first weak spot in the fence is a loose board, we can inadvertently train Rover and our Terrier to eat their way through fences, turning them into beavers rather than burrowers. Once Rover discovers that the fence is breachable, he’ll test every spot where his teeth can gain purchase, and you’ll forever spend your football-watching time patching his holes.

Herding dogs such as Border Collies and sporting breeds like Labradors have a natural ability to leap tall buildings in a single bound. Given the opportunity, they’ll often make jumping fences their specialty.

However, you can inadvertently teach a less-athletic dog to bound over fences by starting small.

Confident that a four-foot fence will contain the Beagle-mix you just adopted from the shelter, you leave him in the backyard and go off to work. That night, your new dog greets you in the driveway after terrorizing cottontails in the neighbors’ woods all day. You raise the fence six inches, positive that this will hold him. Flush from his exploits the day before, your dog has to struggle a little harder to make it over 4’6″, but nothing breeds success like success. A little extra oomph, and he’s out again for another rousing day of bunny-bashing.

You raise the fence to five feet this time, absolutely sure there’s no way he can get over that. But again, even more confident of his jumping prowess, your dog tries a wee bit harder, and he’s up and over. There’s a good chance that if you had started with a five-foot fence Snoopy never would have tried to jump it at all. What you’ve done is taught him to jump higher and higher, consistently reinforcing his belief that if he just tries hard enough he can make it.

Bolters have learned to watch for a moment of human inattention, then charge through the tiniest crack in the gate or door.

While the other escape methods work best in the absence of humans, bolting requires the unintentional complicity of the visitor who doesn’t know (or the family member who forgets) that Dash must be manacled and hog-tied before a door is opened to the outside world.

Once again, prevention is the better part of valor. If Dash is taught from early days to wait politely at a door until invited out, he won’t learn the fine art of door-darting.

Preventing Your Dog from Getting Out

You’ve heard this from me before, and you’ll hear it from me again. It’s always easier to prevent a behavior problem from happening than it is to fix it after the fact. There’s no excuse for letting a puppy learn how to be an escape artist. Prevention measures are relatively simple. Don’t let your puppy learn that roaming is rewarding – keep him at home, and stop any embryonic escape attempts in their tracks by taking the following prophylactic measures:

• Provide a safe, secure enclosure. Before the new puppy comes home, make sure your fence is flush to the ground, or even buried a few inches. Check for rotten spots, and crawl behind shrubs and brush to look for holes or loose boards.

• Go overboard on fence height. Raise the fence to at least five feet for a small dog (perhaps higher for very athletic small dogs like Jack Russell Terriers) and six feet for medium to large dogs. Make sure there are no woodpiles, doghouses, deck railings, or other objects close enough to the fence to provide a launch pad.

• Teach your pup to wait at doors until invited through. Use “Wait!” at every door to the outside world, every time you open it, whether you are going to let him go through it or not (see “Training Your Dog to Stay Using Cues,” May 2001).

• Install dog-proof latches on gates. There’s no point in waiting until after he’s been hit by a car to discover that Rover can learn to work the latch. In fact, a padlock will prevent accidental release from the outside by a visitor or intruder at the same time it keeps Rover from practicing his latch-opening skills.

• Minimize male dogs’ motivation to roam by neutering at a young age (eight weeks or not long thereafter), and provide ample exercise and companionship at home (see “When is a Good Time to Spay or Neuter?” June 2000).

• Consider keeping the dog indoors when you’re not home. Boredom and loneliness provide strong motivation to escape, and Rover has plenty of time to plan and execute the great escape when you are not there to interrupt unwanted behaviors such as digging under and chewing through fences.

Retraining Dogs Who Run Away

What if it’s too late for prevention? Maybe you adopted Rover from the shelter after his last adopter taught him to jump a six-foot fence, and then returned him because he kept escaping. Do you give up on Rover, too? Not at all. There are lots of steps you can take to fortify your defenses and keep your escape artist at home, depending on his proclivities.

• Bounders: If you have a scaler, who hooks his nails in the chain link and climbs up and over, you can cover the inside of the fence with a flat, solid surface so his nails can’t get a purchase. A relatively new material, FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) that is now regularly used in animal shelters may withstand tooth and nail, but it may be prohibitively expensive if you have a large fenced area.

Or, you can install a “roof” at the top of the fence that comes in at a 90-degree angle; he won’t be able to reach behind his head and pull himself backward over the ledge when he gets to the top. Some people use wire mesh to create an angled-in barrier – similar to those at the top of prison fences, only without the razor wire! – that impedes jumping.

Another option that I’ve seen work is to top your fences with a “roll bar” that prevents your dog from getting a purchase at the top of the fence and pulling himself over. This is easily installed by running a wire or rope through sections of fat PVC pipe and hanging them along the top of the fence.

If you have a sailor, who gets a good running start and clears the fence with the greatest of ease, plant a hedge or place some other obstacle in his takeoff zone, interrupting his stride and making it impossible for him to jump. If you put your last fence extension inward at a 45-degree angle you may also fool his eye and foil his leap.

• Bolters: The dog who bolts through open doors needs an airlock – a system of double gates so that if he makes it through one, he is still contained behind the next. Self-closing gate springs are a must, to prevent visitors and family members from being careless twice in a row. A good solid recall – teaching Dash to come when called – taught with positive methods, of course, is an excellent backup plan for the door darter (see “Why a Reliable Recall is So Important,” December, 2000). Family members also need to remember not to panic and chase when Dash slips out – a good game of keep-away just makes door-darting more fun for the dog.

• Burrowers: If you’re going to bury the fence for a dedicated burrower, bury deep – at least six inches to a foot. If you bury it two inches, you’ll just teach him to dig deeper. You might do better setting the fence in cement, or lining your fence trench with large rocks or small boulders. You definitely need a cement pad at the gate, since you can’t bury the gate.

• Beavers: If Bucky has learned to gnaw his way through your fence you could be in big trouble. Lining the inside of the fence with heavy-duty wire – like chain link – may stop him. It may not, however, and he may break teeth in his attempts to eat his way out. Sheets of FRP are good for this also. Cement block walls can be effective, but may not be aesthetically pleasing. Ceramic tiles can be glued to the blocks to make them more attractive, but they’re not cheap.

A Shocking Solution?

Many dog owners are turning to electric shock collars to keep their dogs contained. Non-visible electronic fences are quite the rage, especially in communities where shortsighted homeowner regulations prohibit the installation of physical fences. Many dog owners are pleased with the results – no unsightly fence to impede their view of the sunset, and Rover magically stays within his delineated boundaries. Many dog owners are not so pleased. There are a myriad of things that can fail with non-visible shock fencing systems. Here are just a few:

■ For most dogs, there is a stimulus strong enough to entice the dog through the fence. For some, it might be that bunny or squirrel venturing a tad too close. Once the dog is outside the fence line, he’s rarely motivated to brave the shock to get back in.

■ Some dogs learn that the shock stops once they cross the line. Dogs who are determined to escape can learn to grit their teeth and risk one shock to get to the other side.

■ Shock collars are a punishment tool, and their use risks all the potential negative side effects of punishment. They can cause fear and/or aggression. If a dog receives a shock while a child is walking by, he may associate the shock with the child and become aggressive toward children. Or mail carriers. Or joggers. Or other dogs. Some dogs have become terrified and refuse to go into their own yards after receiving shocks from the collar during the training process.

■ Electronic equipment can fail. Batteries die, and when the dog no longer hears the warning beep he is free to come and go as he pleases. Some collars have malfunctioned and delivered repeated shocks to hapless, helpless dogs until their owners arrived home from work at the end of the day to rescue them from their torture.

■ The non-visible fence does not, of course, provide the dog with any protection from intruders, so Rover is at the mercy of other dogs or humans who may enter the yard and do bad things.

■ As an advocate of positive, dog-friendly training methods, I simply reject the idea of shocking dogs around the neck for our convenience. I would much prefer a chain-link dog pen with a top, set on a cement pad, for the master escape artist.

Most dog owners want to be able to give Rover the freedom to play in the yard, however, so when all else fails, I am a bit less loath to use electric shock in a situation where the dog learns by doing. I have, on rare occasion, suggested the use of a single strand of battery-powered electric fence wire, installed at nose level on the inside of the physical fence.

While a shock to the neck that comes out of nowhere seems to confuse and even terrify a good number of dogs, an “ouch!” to the nose when they touch something seems to make more sense. After one, or maybe two touches, most dogs leave the fence alone without apparent long-term psychological trauma. A last resort, perhaps, and a very aversive one, but preferable to being hit by a car.

Any Dog Can Escape a Yard

I’m far more careful now than I was in the Otis days; my dogs are never left in the backyard if no one is home to monitor their activities. Still, that doesn’t mean that accidents don’t happen. Just the other day, my phone rang. I answered, and it was Helen, my assistant, calling from the training center a few hundred feet from the house.

“I have Lucy,” she said.

WHAT?!

Lucy was supposed to be safely in the backyard! I dashed out to find the back gate open – left that way by the usually-very-careful guy who mows our lawn. Tucker was safely indoors, Dubhy and Katie were still in the backyard – only Lucy had made the great escape, and she hadn’t gone far.

It can happen to any of us. I was just thankful someone was home.

Canine Cancer Crisis

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Cancer has to be the most feared diagnosis in all of medicine, one that sends patients and their families on a bewildering journey through statistics, treatment options, and life-or-death decisions that have to be made right now. Cancer has become so widespread that the care and treatment of its human patients is one of the world’s largest industries. Now cancer affects a significant percentage of veterinary patients as well.

Most medical dictionaries define cancer as a disease resulting from an abnormal and uncontrolled division of cells that invade and destroy surrounding tissue. In most cases, this cell division creates malignant growths called tumors. Cancer cells often migrate via the blood or lymph, resulting in the development of additional tumors throughout the body.

Cancer has no known cause, but its risk factors include genetics, diet, hormone imbalances, exposure to radiation, viruses, vaccinations, and environmental toxins such as lawn chemicals, flea and tick dips, asbestos, and tobacco smoke.

In the 1960s, about four out of every 1,000 dogs were diagnosed with cancer in the United States each year. At that time, the most common canine cancers involved the breast in females, the testes in males, and connective tissue, skin, lymph nodes, mouth, throat, and bones in both genders.

In 1997, a Morris Animal Foundation survey found that cancer was the leading cause of non-accidental death in America’s dogs. Today nearly half of dogs over age 10 die of cancer.

The similarities between canine and human cancers are striking, but there are differences. For example, dogs have 35 times as much skin cancer as humans, 4 times as many breast tumors, 8 times as much bone cancer, and twice the incidence of leukemia. Humans have 7 times as much lung cancer as dogs and 13 times as much cancer of the stomach and intestines.

Running in the family
In a 1997 Swedish study involving 222,000 dogs, the breeds at highest risk for cancer included Boxers, Giant Schnauzers, and Bernese Mountain Dogs (all of whom had a mortality rate due to cancer of over 30 percent), Irish Wolfhounds, Cocker Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers (over 20 percent), and Pomeranians, Newfoundlands, German Shepherd Dogs, Saint Bernards, Great Danes, Greyhounds, and Basset Hounds (over 10 percent of deaths due to cancer).

English scientists published a study in 1999 that found that in the United Kingdom, Afghan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Standard Poodles, and Rottweilers had the highest incidence of cancer, while Airedales, Beagles, Dachshunds, Irish Setters, Jack Russell Terriers, Rough Collies, and Yorkshire Terriers had a relatively low risk of dying from cancer.

In a 2003 Danish Kennel Club study, researchers investigated the age and cause of death for nearly 3,000 dogs and found that cancer affected 14.5 percent of the dogs studied. Bernese Mountain Dogs, 34.4 percent of whom died of cancer, had the highest cancer rate in Denmark.

Accurate cancer statistics for America’s dogs are hard to come by, but studies published by epidemiologists provide estimates that appear in the following descriptions. Today the most common type of cancer in American dogs is skin cancer, followed by mammary cancer and lymphosarcoma.

Cancer’s symptoms
The early warning signs of cancer in dogs are similar to human warning signs publicized by the American Cancer Society. These include any abnormal swelling (especially a swelling that continues to grow), sores that don’t heal, weight loss, bleeding or discharge from any body opening, a reluctance to move or exercise, a loss of stamina, or difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating.

Any sort of lameness in an older dog, especially large breeds, should be investigated as a potential cancer case. Even minor or subtle symptoms, such as sleeping more than usual, refusing to play, or having less interest in social interaction, can be warning signs.

Types of cancers
There isn’t room to describe every cancer that affects America’s dogs, but the following alphabetical list describes some common diagnoses. Becoming familiar with the descriptions below will help you make sense of these and other canine cancers.

Bladder cancer: Bladder and ureteral cancers are most common in older dogs. While some studies have shown a higher risk in females and other studies found no gender differences, there may be a higher risk in neutered dogs of both sexes.

Bladder tumors have been associated with the use of flea and tick dips, flea and tick shampoos, or exposure to aromatic hydrocarbons such as paraaminobiphenyl, paranitroliphenyl, and betanapthylamine. The authors of one study suggest that it is not the active ingredients in flea and tick products that cause bladder cancer but rather “inert” or “carrier” ingredients such as benzene, toluene, xylene, and petroleum distillates, all of which are known carcinogens and which often make up 95 percent of the total product. They are used as solvents for the active ingredients.

A Purdue University study published in 2004 found that Scottish Terriers exposed to lawn chemicals have an increased incidence of bladder cancer. Scottish Terriers were chosen for the study because they develop bladder cancer 20 times more often than other breeds, but dogs of any breed can develop the disease.

Other bladder cancer risk factors include obesity and living in a marshy area.

Hemangiosarcoma: Originating in the endothelium (the lining of the spleen and blood vessels), hemangiosarcoma forms highly malignant tumors that develop throughout the body, especially in the spleen, liver, and heart.

German Shepherd Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Boxers, and English Setters are at higher than average risk, and the disease is most common in middle-aged or older dogs of medium to large size. In many cases, symptoms are noticed only after the disease has progressed to an advanced stage.

Initial symptoms include bleeding (especially nosebleeds), weakness, pale mucous membranes in the mouth and eyes, panting, and abdominal swelling. Death often occurs quickly, within one to four months of diagnosis. Many dogs with this disease die suddenly without manifesting clinical symptoms.

Spayed females are four times more likely to develop vascular tumors (cardiac hemangiosarcomas) than intact females; neutered males are also at higher risk of hemangiosarcoma than intact males.

Histiocytosis: The most common cancer found in Bernese Mountain Dogs, histiocytosis is rare in other breeds, although it can occur in Rottweilers, Golden Retrievers, and Flat-Coated Retrievers. Its symptoms include depression, fatigue, lethargy, loss of appetite, and weight loss. Malignant histiocytosis progresses rapidly and has usually metastasized by the time symptoms develop. Most patients die within two to four months of diagnosis. Systemic histiocytosis creates skin abnormalities on the face and legs.

Most patients are middle-aged or older. Histiocytosis that spreads to the lungs can interfere with breathing, and anemia is another common symptom.

Histiocytomas are benign tumors that usually appear on the head of dogs under three years of age. They are not considered a health risk.

Leukemia: Leukemia, or chronic lymphocytic leukemia (CLL), usually affects older dogs and involves the rapid reproduction of mature lymphocytes throughout the body, including the bone marrow. Because elevated circulating lymphocyte counts are easily identified in complete blood panel tests, CLL is often discovered when the blood is tested for other reasons.

Chronic lymphocytic leukemia tends to progress slowly and is often not treated until the circulating lymphocyte count increases to very high levels or the dog becomes lethargic, CLL’s main symptom.

The condition can progress to a lymphoblastic crisis, also called lymphoblastic leukemia, which is a more aggressive form of the disease, comparable to advanced stage lymphosarcoma. With conventional treatment, most dogs with lymphoblastic leukemia survive for about a year.

Lung cancer: While unusual in dogs, lung cancer does occur, and the number of cases diagnosed each year appears to be increasing. However, this may be the result of improved diagnostic techniques rather than an increasing number of cases.

According to some research, short-nosed breeds exposed to secondhand smoke have twice as much risk of lung cancer than long-nosed breeds. (Conversely, long-nosed breeds living with smokers have an increased risk of nasal cancer.) Exposure to asbestos can increase the risk of cancer of the lining of the lungs (mesothelioma), and dogs with this type of cancer are likely to live with owners whose work or hobbies exposed them to asbestos.

Lymphosarcoma (Lymphoma): The third most-common cancer in dogs, lymphosarcoma (also known as lymphoma) affects lymphocytes (a type of white blood cell) and tissue of the lymph nodes, spleen, liver, gastrointestinal tract, and bone marrow.

Although lymphosarcoma strikes dogs of all ages, most patients are over age five, with males and females at equal risk. Boxers, German Shepherd Dogs, Doberman Pinschers, Golden Retrievers, Scotties, West Highland White Terriers, and Pointers may be most vulnerable to this disease.

There are five classifications of lymphosarcoma, depending on the tumor’s primary location.

The most common type involves external lymph nodes. It is also the most likely to be overlooked because many dogs have only mild symptoms such as fatigue or decreased appetite. More obvious symptoms include weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst or urination, weakness, or difficulty breathing. In some cases, the only signs are enlarged lymph nodes under the neck, behind the knees, or in front of the shoulders.

The other classifications are gastrointestinal (symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and loss of appetite), mediastinal (affecting the chest, creating breathing problems and excessive thirst and urination), cutaneous (affecting the skin, which can be dry, flaky, scaly, irritated, and itchy), and bone marrow (producing anemia, infections, and bleeding).

Because lymphosarcoma spreads quickly, its diagnosis involves biopsies, aspiration of affected tissue, blood tests, urinalysis, and a search for tumors throughout the body using X-rays, sonograms, or other methods.

Mammary cancer: The most common cancer in female dogs is breast or mammary cancer. According to some studies, mammary tumors are more common in purebred dogs than in mixed-breed dogs of the same age, and they are far more common in dogs that are intact or were not spayed until after age two and a half years. Spaying offers maximum protection to dogs spayed before their first heat cycle and almost as much protection to those spayed before their second season. Obesity is a risk factor for mammary cancer, and the breasts most likely to be affected are those farthest from the head.

Approximately half of dogs with mammary gland tumors have more than one. These tumors tend to develop between the age 6 and 10 years.

Mammary tumors vary by size, texture, and condition. They may contain fluid or be ulcerated or inflamed. None of these symptoms reveals whether a tumor is malignant, and in dogs that have not been spayed, about half the tumors tested are benign.

Lymph node involvement increases the risk of cancer spreading to the lungs or other organs.

Survival rates are higher for dogs with small rather than large tumors and for dogs whose tumors have not metastasized.

Osteosarcoma: Highly aggressive and fast growing, osteosarcoma affects more than 8,000 American dogs every year and causes an estimated 85 percent of all canine bone tumors.

The illness has been diagnosed in six-month-old puppies, but it is most common in older Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Great Pyrenees, Saint Bernards, Newfoundlands, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Irish Wolfhounds, Rottweilers, Labrador Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers, Weimaraners, Boxers, and other large-breed dogs. It is almost 500 times more likely to affect dogs weighing over 35 kilograms (about 80 pounds) than those weighing less than 10 kilograms (about 23 pounds), and males are at greater risk than females.

Any stress on weight-bearing legs is a risk factor, including previous fractures and infections. Bone tumors are most likely to affect the legs but can also occur in the skull, ribs, vertebrae, or pelvis.

Osteosarcoma is twice as common in spayed females and neutered males as in their intact counterparts.

After producing tumors that weaken bones, osteosarcoma spreads throughout the body. Its main symptoms – lameness, intermittent pain, leg swelling, and fractures at the tumor site – may be mistaken for arthritis or other chronic conditions until the disease is advanced. As pain increases, behavioral symptoms such as irritability, aggression, and a reluctance to exercise become more obvious.

Without treatment, most dogs with osteosarcoma die within two months of diagnosis, and only 20 percent survive for two years. Limb amputation is commonly performed to provide pain relief, but it does not usually cure the disease or prevent its metastasis. The most common cause of death is the spread of cancer to the lungs.

Prostate cancer: In humans, prostate cancer is a common but slow-growing cancer that affects older men. In dogs (the only other species to have significant amounts of prostate cancer) the disease is fast-growing, aggressive, and likely to spread to lymph nodes, lungs, and bones. In one study, one out of every 150 male dogs age eight and older was found to have prostate cancer. In most cases, prostate cancer is diagnosed in its advanced stages.

Skin cancer: The skin is the most prevalent tumor location in dogs, comprising an estimated 58 percent of all canine cancers. Most skin cancer tumors contain mast cells, squamous cells, or melanin-pigmented cells. These tumors are usually soft or solid raised, nodular masses. If malignant (many are benign), treatment depends on their stage or grade.

Mast cell tumors, also called mastocytomas or mast cell sarcomas, are the most frequently diagnosed cancers in dogs. They are most common in middle-aged Boxers, Pugs, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Boston Terriers, Schnauzers, Beagles, Labrador Retrievers, Dachshunds, Fox Terriers, English Bulldogs, Staffordshire Terriers, and mixed-breed dogs.

Squamous cell carcinomas are common in lightly pigmented dogs such as Beagles, Dalmatians, Whippets, and white English Bull Terriers. Nail bed squamous cell carcinomas tend to occur in black-coated large-breed dogs.

Melanomas are usually solitary black tumors. Melanomas of the mouth and nail bed are usually malignant.

Testicular cancer: Human males tend to develop only one type of testicular cancer (seminomas) while intact dogs can develop any of three different types (Sertoli cell tumors, seminomas, and interstitial cell tumors).

Canine risk factors include undescended testicles, which remain in the body cavity instead of migrating to the scrotum, as well as inguinal hernias. Neutering prevents the development of testicular cancer. Breeds associated with testicular tumors include Samoyeds, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, and English Bulldogs.

Links between cancer and environmental toxins have long been suspected, and during the Vietnam War, working dogs exposed to parasitic infections, chemicals used to treat those infections, and agricultural chemicals such as herbicides developed increased levels of testicular cancer.

More on the way
In the coming months, we will explore conventional, complementary/ alternative, and support therapies for canine cancer. Next month, we’ll discuss what works and what doesn’t in conventional cancer treatment – and how much it costs.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Cancer Treatments for Dogs”

-Author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, Labrador Retriever, and red tabby cat.

Establishing a Good Bite Inhibition

By Pat Miller

Animal care professionals are fond of saying, “All dogs will bite, given the right (wrong) circumstances.” If that’s the case, how have I managed to suffer only two punctures in a 30-plus-year career working with dogs? Partly through reading and responding to canine body language well enough to avoid provoking an attack (see “How to Save Yourself,” September 2005). Partly, I’m sure, through luck. But largely, I suspect, because many dogs possess a wonderful quality known as “bite inhibition.”

Unconscious control

Bite inhibition is the ability of a dog to control the force of his bite. Without it, even a playful grab at your sleeve when you are wrestling with your dog or a quick snap of shocked self-defense (when you accidently step on his tail, for example) can result in a serious or painful puncture. In contrast, a dog in those same circumstances who has well-developed bite inhibition can grab your wrist and even gently shake it, or bite at the ankle of the foot that is planted on his tail –without leaving a mark or causing you more than a moment’s minor discomfort.

Canine behaviorists theorize that dogs have evolved to normally develop bite inhibition for good reason. In canine society, dogs normally use escalation of force effectively to get their messages across without inflicting grievous injury upon each other. This is important from a survival standpoint; if pack members consistently punctured each others’ skins over trivial issues, they’d risk their own injury and debilitation, even death, as well as that of the pack mates they depend upon for mutual protection, food gathering, and survival. Even when encountering canines from an “alien” pack, the less actual physical engagement, the better the chances of survival for all concerned.

Fortunately for humans, this bite inhibition often transfers to us, as members of our canines’ social groups.

How to get it
Bite inhibition is clearly a desirable thing. So how do you get it? Or more correctly, how does your dog get it? It’s not something you’ll find on the shelf of your local pet supply store!

Bite inhibition has both genetic and environmental components. That is, a dog can inherit the potential to use gentle bite pressure from parents who are also genetically programmed to mouth softly, and he can also learn to bite softly. Of course, the more strongly a desirable behavior trait is encoded in the genes, the easier it is to nurture appropriate behaviors. If your pup lacks good genes for bite inhibition, he’ll need lots of environmental influence – the sooner, the better.

Genetics of bite inhibition is one of the very important reasons to meet a pup’s parents, if possible, when you purchase from a breeder. While sometimes one or both parents simply aren’t available for legitimate reasons, if the breeder declines because either of the parents aren’t friendly, have bitten in the past, or cautions you to be careful when interacting with them, you may not want to risk purchasing a puppy from those lines. Make it a point to specifically ask if either parent has ever bitten, and if so, the severity of the bite, and how the breeder would characterize both dogs’ levels of bite inhibition. If she’s not willing to discuss the topic, doesn’t understand the question, or seems not to be forthcoming with information, make your puppy-purchase decision accordingly.

If you’re adopting from a shelter, Mom and Dad aren’t likely to be around. When you can’t meet parents, your personal observations during puppy selection – always important anyway – become even more critical. Most puppies will engage in some degree of mouthing – it’s how they explore their world. However, if you play with a number of puppies, you’ll discover that some mouth your hands gently, others will repeatedly bite hard enough with their wickedly sharp baby teeth to cause pain, and still others will even draw blood.

Those who consistently mouth gently have a healthy degree of innate bite inhibition and/or have learned their lessons well from Momdog and siblings who let them know when they bite too hard. Those who cause pain or draw blood need more lessons. There’s a good chance they can still turn into great dogs – and it will take more input on your part to teach them to be gentle with their teeth. The older a pup is, the more effort it will take to install bite inhibition, and the greater the likelihood that you’ll be less successful.

One of the reasons it’s such a tragedy to remove a pup from his litter too soon is that he’ll miss those all-important bite-inhibition lessons from Momdog and sibs. This is also one of the big drawbacks of adopting a singleton – a pup with no littermates. I strongly recommend you wait to take your new pup home until he’s at least seven weeks, preferably eight, regardless of how eager the breeder is to give him up. Your own bite inhibition lessons can never be as effective with your pup as those from his own kin. No matter how hard we try, we just can’t speak dog as well as dogs can.

Don’t punish!
In past times, and unfortunately sometimes still today, dog owners were counseled to use aversives to try to teach bite inhibition. If a puppy gnawed on your hands, some trainers suggested holding his muzzle closed as punishment, “cuffing” him under the chin with an open palm, or worse, shoving a fist down the pup’s throat. In a word… “Don’t!”

Not only are these methods abusive and have the potential to teach your pup to fear your hands, they can also trigger aggressive responses from assertive or fearfully defensive pups. If they do succeed in putting a stop to the mouthing, you may have taught the pup that his only options are to “Not Bite” or to “Bite Really Hard” rather than the third important “If You Must Bite, Bite Gently” option.

Remember, all dogs bite, given the right (wrong) set of circumstances. With enough provocation, even the most tolerant and gentle of dogs might be induced to put her mouth on human skin. With good bite inhibition, provocation is likely to result in a polite, “Please don’t do that” mouth-on-skin warning. Without it, the provoked dog is likely to cause serious damage when he puts his teeth on someone.

Things to do
The older a dog is when you start trying to teach bite inhibition, the greater the likelihood that, while you may succeed in teaching the dog to consciously use his mouth more gently, he will still fall back into hard biting during times of stress and arousal.

If you have a pup with naturally good bite inhibition, consider yourself blessed, and take steps to preserve this valuable natural resource. If not, start immediately to cultivate bite inhibition.

Play fetch games with your pup to direct his mouth toward appropriate toys to take some of the “wild puppy” edge off his bite. Be sure to give him plenty of exercise daily. A tired pup is a well-behaved pup. Consult your vet for guidance on how much exercise is appropriate for your pup.

Work with his bite inhibition while he’s in an ex-pen or on a tether so you can calmly escape his shark teeth. Begin petting him and playing gently. As long as he’s not causing pain, even if he’s putting his mouth on you with some pressure, continue playing.

If he bites and hurts you, calmly say “Ouch!” and walk away from him. Step outside the reach of the tether, or exit the ex-pen so he can’t follow you and continue to bite. The “Ouch!” isn’t intended to stop the biting; it only marks the behavior – tells him what he did that made you leave. This is negative punishment – his biting behavior makes a good thing – you – go away.

Wait 20-30 seconds to give him time to calm down, then go back to him and calmly resume playing. If he’s barking and aroused, wait to return until he settles. As long as he bites softly, continue playing. Any time his bite hurts, say “Ouch!” and leave.

If several repetitions don’t seem to reduce hard biting, give him longer time-outs to give him more time to settle.

Over time, as he learns to control his hardest biting, you can raise the bar – use the same methods to gradually shape a softer and softer mouth. When he’s no longer biting hard enough to hurt, use your “Ouch” technique for moderately hard bites, then medium ones, then finally, as he outgrows the puppy stage at 5-6 months, for any bites to skin at all.

If you must handle him when he’s being “bitey” – to groom, trim his nails, attach his leash – keep his teeth busy nibbling at treats you hold in one hand while you work with the other, or have a helper feed treats so you have both hands free to groom, trim, or leash.

This method of marking the inappropriate behavior and walking away from the pup imitates, to some degree, the behavior of Momdog and littermates when a pup bites too hard. If needle-sharp teeth clamp too hard on Momdog’s tender teats, she may stand up and exit the den. Pups learn to nurse gently to keep the milk bar open. Similarly, when pups play together, if one is too rough his playmate may “Yipe!” and decline to continue the game. Pup learns to inhibit his bite to keep the fun happening.

Some trainers teach owners to give a high-pitched “Yipe!” or “Ouch!” to mimic a littermate’s protestations. While this can work with some pups, others find it more arousing – perhaps because we don’t really know what we’re saying when we try to speak Dog.

I advise my clients to skip trying to imitate a puppy “Yipe!” and just use a calm “Ouch!” as a marker. If you do try the “Yipe!” once or twice and it works, great. If it doesn’t, don’t keep doing it! Simply replace it with a more composed marker.

More tips
Pups with poor bite inhibition can exhibit exceedingly frustrating behaviors. It’s easy to lose patience when those needle-sharp puppy canines sink into your skin. Remember that these “sharky” little guys usually love reactions; you’re playing into their paws when you lose your temper with them.

Use management solutions such as crates and baby gates so your pup doesn’t have access to you when you’re dressed up. Have treats and toys handy so you can toss them away from you and divert him when he’s approaching with mayhem on his mind. Do lots of work on the tether so you can repeatedly send the message that hard bites make the good stuff go away.

Young children should play with a shark-pup only under direct supervision, and only when the puppy is in a mellow mood. Most pups develop predictable cycles – if you know he’s calmest early to mid-afternoon, that’s when he can play with the kids. Controlled games only – no running around the backyard squealing while puppy tries to latch onto chubby, tender toddler legs!

If you’re doing positive training, with treats – and of course we hope you are – a hard-mouthed puppy can bring you to tears and leave your fingers bleeding as he clamps down on treats. It’s reassuring to know it gets easier when they lose their sharp baby teeth at five to six months, but meanwhile you’re tempted to stop training, or at least stop using treats! Try these temporary solutions:

• Keep your treat hidden in your closed fist until you feel your pup’s mouth soften. Then open your hand and feed the treat from the palm of your hand like you would feed a horse. This teaches the pup he gets the treat when his mouth is soft, and prevents finger-shredding because he’s taking it from your palm.

• Use metal finger splints. Available over-the-counter at pharmacies, these handy gadgets protect your fingers and teach him to be soft because most dogs don’t like to bite on metal.

• Feed treats from a metal spoon. This keeps your fingers out of his mouth and teaches him to be gentle; few dogs like to bite metal.

• Toss treats on the floor instead of handfeeding. This is a temporary solution, as there are many times in training when it’s far preferable to feed from the hand than the floor. On occasion though, it can save your fingers – and your sanity.

It may take a while to see the positive results of your gradual bite-inhibition lessons, but it’s worth it. Lucy, our Cardigan Corgi came to us at five months of age with a pretty hard bite – you knew when she took a treat from your fingers! It took months, and a lot of patience, to get her bite to soften.

At first it seemed we made no progress at all. Then for several months she’d start to bite down, I’d say “Ouch!” and feel her pause and relax her mouth before taking the treat. Now, at age 18 months, she takes treats sweetly, leaving fingers behind, intact, without a reminder. That alone was worth the effort, and I pray that it translates to true bite inhibition and nothing more than a Level 2 bite should the occasion ever arise that she feels compelled to put her teeth on human skin in earnest.

Also With This Article
“What To Do When Your Dog Bites”

-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

Wobenzym: A Digestive Enzyme Supplement for Dogs

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Charles Green is America’s largest Wobenzym distributor. When his Las Vegas supplement store was listed as a resource in the article, over a thousand of us ordered the product for our dogs.

“I didn’t know whether to kiss you guys or tear my hair,” says Green. “You bought just about all the Wobenzym we had, and this is a product that’s hard to keep in stock. Most ordered it to help their dogs’ arthritis or cancer. I know it works because today, over four years later, we’re still getting repeat orders from many of the same people. Some are now taking it themselves as well as giving it to their dogs.”

What is Wobenzym?

In Germany, Wobenzym is second in popularity only to aspirin among over-the-counter remedies. It’s also the most thoroughly researched enzyme supplement available worldwide. (The product’s proper name is Wobenzym N, but most call it Wobenzym for short.) Its blend of pancreatin, trypsin, chymotrypsin, bromelain, papain, and rutin would normally act as a digestive aid, but Wobenzym is taken between meals on an empty stomach and its enteric coating protects these ingredients until they are released in the small intestine. From there they move throughout the body, reducing inflammation wherever it occurs by breaking harmful proteins into smaller chains of amino acids. This type of treatment is called “systemic oral enzyme therapy.”

Wobenzym was developed in the 1950s in the United States by Drs. Max Wolf and Helen Benitez of Columbia University, who named the product “wo” for Wolf, “ben” for Benitez, and “zym” for enzymes. Their research showed that proteolytic (protein-digesting) enzymes have four significant properties when circulating through the body: they break down inflammation, break down harmful fibrous tissue, reduce blood viscosity to prevent harmful clotting without the adverse side effects of aspirin and other blood-thinning medications, and they support immune function.

Despite its benefits, Wobenzym did not become a successful supplement until it moved to Germany. It has since been tested in over a hundred medical studies and clinical trials, most conducted in Europe.

Wobenzym is recommended for bruises, sprains, and all types of sports injuries as well as arthritis and any illness that involves inflammation. European Olympic teams use Wobenzym as a preventive (the result is a reported 50-percent reduction in injuries) and, by increasing the dose, to treat any type of trauma injury and accelerate healing.

The bioflavonoid rutin, one of Wobenzym’s ingredients, prevents the discoloration and pain associated with bruises. German surgeons routinely prescribe Wobenzym to prevent bruising, swelling, edema, and pain, significantly reducing post-surgical recovery time, and German hospitals give large amounts to those with serious injuries to prevent brain swelling and speed recovery.

According to its manufacturer, Wobenzym has been shown in clinical trials and medical studies to reduce the incidence of fatal blood clots resulting from the sudden breakdown of vulnerable plaque; increase feelings of well-being; help prevent heart attacks and strokes; help protect the body from environmental toxins; and effectively treat arthritis, autoimmune disorders, rheumatic, and cardiovascular diseases, infections, tumor illnesses, herpes and other viral infections, cancer, hepatitis C, recurrent miscarriages, and many degenerative diseases.

The label-recommended human dose is three tablets twice daily, taken at least 45 minutes before meals, or as recommended by a health care professional. Those health care recommendations are often substantially larger, as Charles Green learned while interviewing physicians and scientists about Wobenzym on his “Health Talk” radio show.

“I’m always being told by these experts,” he says, “that the label dose is extremely conservative. It’s really the recommended maintenance dose for healthy 18-year-olds. As we age or become ill or injured, our bodies deplete their stored enzymes, so larger doses are required for maintenance.

“Among middle-aged arthritis or fibromyalgia sufferers, daily doses of 30 or 40 tablets or more may be needed to alleviate symptoms. Those recovering from accidents, injuries, surgery, or illnesses like cancer often take more. The optimal dose depends on the body’s response. Diarrhea, which results when you take more than you need, is the only adverse side effect documented in humans.

“Anti-inflammatory drugs like aspirin, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and Cox-2 inhibitors kill thousands of Americans and hospitalize many more for the treatment of side effects. Wobenzym is sold in over 40 countries, is taken by millions every day, and has never killed anyone.”

Wobenzym for Dogs?

Two types of Wobenzym are available in the U.S. Both have the same contents, but their coatings differ. Plain Wobenzym is light beige in color, while the product sold as Fido-Wobenzym has a red coating and a less pronounced odor.

“There’s a lot of confusion about Fido-Wobenzym,” says Green. “Some Web sites state that it’s a special formulation developed just for canines, or that the recommended doses of the two versions are different. Neither statement is true.”

Fido-Wobenzym is the same product that’s sold for human use in Europe. Its red coating contains a small amount of sugar and food dyes, and because American consumers wanted a sugar-free product that doesn’t contain coloring agents, the manufacturer created a plain no-sugar coating for the U.S. market. Some people like the red coating better – it’s a matter of personal preference.

Literally, the only difference between the red product and the beige product is the coating, and the only difference between the red product and Fido-Wobenzym is the label. Says Green, “Fido-Wobenzym comes in small containers of 33 or 99 tablets, which makes it more expensive, while regular Wobenzym, which is sold in bottles holding 200, 400, or 800 tablets, is more economical.”

Fido-Wobenzym Arthritis Trial

In 2002, Beverly Cappel, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Chestnut Ridge, New York, conducted a double-blind placebo-controlled crossover study of Wobenzym N/Fido-Wobenzym in the care and manage-ment of canine arthritis. Sixty dogs diagnosed with various types of arthritis were divided into two groups and given Fido-Wobenzym or identical placebo tablets for six to nine weeks. The study tested doses of one tablet twice per day or two tablets twice per day.

“In Europe, where this preparation is widely used,” explains Dr. Cappel, “it is known to exert joint-sparing and anti-inflammatory effects without the gastrointestinal complications or other complications associated with NSAIDs.”

The dogs in the study continued with their existing protocol (if any) of prescribed medication or natural remedies. Most of the dogs were already receiving supplements such as glucosamine sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), boswellia, alfalfa, and other arthritis-support herbs as well as antioxidant vitamins.

“This was a placebo-controlled trial,” says Dr. Cappel, “but it was obvious which dogs were taking the Wobenzym. They were the ones who stopped limping soon after the study started and were able to go for longer walks. Their owners noted that these dogs appeared to have much less pain. They started acting like young dogs again. A key benefit was the reduction of inflammation. Several patients who responded well were older dogs who were having trouble getting up or couldn’t do stairs or would only go for very short walks. Being able to get up the stairs again or go for longer walks – those are priceless benefits. After the study concluded, many owners came in for refills.”

In a separate small observational study conducted at the same time, eight dogs with cancer were given Fido-Wobenzym. In Europe, Wobenzym is a popular supplement for those with cancer because it may prevent metastasis. “We saw excellent results with small tumors and extended survival periods,” reports Dr. Cappel. “Of the group, two died, but the others did well. Their owners and our own clinical and laboratory indications indicated that the tumors either became static or regressed.”

Most of these dogs were also being given alternative cancer treatments such as carnivora (a European extract of the carnivorous herb Venus fly trap), Chinese herbs, raw-food diets, and turmeric. “Even if your pet is already being given holistic support for cancer,” says Dr. Cappel, “the systemic enzymes seem to help there, too.”

Digestive Enzymes Are Not For Every Dog

But Wobenzym is not without side effects, at least in some dogs. Dr. Cappel first noticed platelet problems in patients whose owners were already giving them Wobenzym for arthritis or cancer at doses higher than Fido-Wobenzym’s label recommendation.

She says that Wobenzym is not likely to produce adverse effects at doses of up to two tablets twice per day (four tablets daily), but as a precaution, she recommends no more than three tablets per day, which she considers very safe. Owners of dogs taking higher amounts, such as six or more tablets daily, should watch for any of the following symptoms, which might indicate platelet problems, internal bleeding, or anemia: small blood spots on the gums, pale gums, any abnormal bleeding, or bloodshot eyes.

Among Dr. Cappel’s patients who developed platelet problems, none became sufficiently anemic to develop white or pale gums. The problem, which occurred in male and female dogs of different ages, breeds, sizes, and conditions, several of which ate a raw home-prepared diet, developed within the first six weeks of daily supplementation with Wobenzym. Immediately reducing the dose or stopping the product resolved these symptoms.

Many dogs have taken substantially larger doses with no difficulty, as described later in this article, but Wobenzym’s combination of enzymes can thin the blood. Wobenzym is not recommended for dogs with bleeding or clotting disorders or for any animal on medication that causes blood thinning.

Those who give their dogs digestive enzymes with food don’t have to worry about platelet problems even if their dogs are on blood-thinning medication or suffer from a bleeding disorder because enzyme powders that are sprinkled on food according to label directions do their work in the stomach, assisting digestion. In systemic oral enzyme therapy, which is where Wobenzym is used, the enzymes are protected from stomach acid and do not interact with food.

Enzymes for Penny’s Eye Ulcer

In November 2000, Penny, a six-year-old Boxer belonging to San Diego resident Pam Klassen, scratched her eye while chasing lizards in deep brush at her favorite lake. The eye became very sore, infected, and running with pus. Penny’s veterinarian prescribed an antibiotic ointment, but that didn’t help.

“Over the next two months we tried several different antibiotics, but nothing seemed to work,” Klassen reports. “The ulcer kept getting worse. The vet finally sent us to a specialist who wanted to perform an operation on her eye, sewing her third eyelid over the eye in hopes of healing the ulcer. The cost would be over a thousand dollars, and he said that it didn’t always work. Fortunately, I had just read the issue of WDJ that contained the ‘Banking on Enzymes’ article (January 2001). After reading about how it helped a dog with cancer and another with a back injury, I decided to give it a try for Penny’s ulcer.”

Klassen started Penny on five Wobenzym tablets per day and added five per day until she saw improvement. “This maxed out at giving her 40 tabs per day in four divided doses of 10 tablets at a time,” she says. “The only side effect she showed was a little diarrhea and gas. If she seemed uncomfortable with her stomach, I would back off a day and let her body rest.

“I first observed that Penny seemed to be in less pain. She was not holding her eye shut, and the discharge slowed, eventually became clear, and finally stopped altogether. Pretty soon I saw tiny blood vessels all over the milky color of the ulcer, which I had learned is a good sign of healing. Then the blood vessels went away and only a slight milky area was visible. That, too, disappeared, and at that point, I began to reduce her dosage. Eventually her eye became clear, sparkly, and healthy with no apparent long-term damage.”

Penny’s first ulcer took about six weeks to cure. “Then she got an ulcer in her other eye,” says Klassen. “I started giving her Wobenzym right away without all the extra vitamins I had used the first time. This time she took 20 tablets per day for less than three weeks, and the ulcer disappeared. She is such a stinker about chasing critters, she is prone to these ulcers. Now if I catch her digging in the yard and she has dirt in her eyes, I promptly wash them out with a mild salt water solution and put her on Wobenzym for several days. Usually she never develops an ulcer at all.

“I saw a woman walking at the lake with a Boxer and while talking to her, I could see that her dog had a big milky ulcer on his eye. When she said they were having a hard time curing it, I told her about my experience. She bought Wobenzym, tried it, and completely cured her dog’s ulcer. This product is amazing! I now take it myself every day as a preventive.”

A Veterinarian’s Enzyme Protocol

Mary Foster, DVM, who practices veterinary medicine in Gainesville, Florida, became interested in systemic oral enzymes five years ago. She has been prescribing Wobenzym for canine patients ever since.

One of her first Wobenzym patients was Elliott, a large Terrier mix with hip dysplasia and severe arthritis in both knees. Elliott was 13 when he slipped on a hardwood floor and couldn’t get up. His owner, Leanne Lawrence, took him to three veterinarians, all of whom recommended that Elliott be euthanized to put him out of his misery. Then she found Dr. Foster, who makes house calls.

“I always carry Wobenzym with me,” says Dr. Foster, “and as soon as I saw Elliot, I started him on five tablets per hour. I also had Leanne encourage him to stand and walk on a safe, carpeted surface, because motion often helps dogs with his condition feel better. Just after his third dose, he and Leanne were walking down the street.”

Elliot resumed his active, roaming life, even though he was diagnosed with bone cancer at 15. “I treated him homeopathically and holistically,” says Dr. Foster, “and the bone tumor went away. It really amazed the veterinarian who did his biopsy, along with everyone else. Elliot finally died in his sleep last winter at 17.”

Dr. Foster prescribes Wobenzym for arthritis, hip dysplasia, injuries, skin and coat problems, autoimmune disorders, and any condition that involves inflammation. Although she uses doses much higher than those on the label, her patients have yet to experience any platelet problems or signs of anemia. “I’ve given it to more than a hundred dogs, most of whom I see on a regular basis,” she says. “Some have been taking it every day for five years. The only situation where I wouldn’t use it would be if the dog has a stomach ulcer, which is rare but can result from taking certain medications.”

How does Dr. Foster decide how much to use? “I usually give it to effect,” she explains. “This means increasing the dose until symptoms respond. For most conditions, I start with one tablet per 10 pounds of body weight up to a maximum of five tablets at a time and give that amount twice or three times a day. In a serious condition where the dog is badly injured or can’t move because of pain, I’ll give that amount more often, like every one or two hours.”

Wobenzym works best if taken on an empty stomach between meals. Dr. Foster reports that most dogs, including her own, will eat the tablets out of her hand. “I use the plain tablets, not the red-coated ones, and they just swallow them. For dogs who aren’t interested, some people flavor the tablets with tuna water. You can give them with a small amount of food if necessary, but it works best without food. For dogs who enjoy catching food, a game of catch can be an easy way to give it.”

Once a dog responds to the initial dose, Dr. Foster stops increasing the amount and looks for an effective maintenance dose. “I study the dog’s symptoms,” she says. “I look for physical comfort, improved range of motion, increased playfulness, and similar improvements. Once the dog is on a daily dose that produces good results, we continue it for several weeks before cutting back. I don’t want to reduce the amount too soon, as a body that’s in damaged condition needs all the enzyme support it can get.

“Then, to see if a smaller dose can maintain good results, we reduce the amount by one or two tablets in each divided dose during the day, then continue at that amount for several weeks unless symptoms recur.”

If the dog injures herself, begins limping, or shows other symptoms, Dr. Foster increases the dose again.

“I’ve noticed that the longer dogs are on a maintenance dose of Wobenzym, the fewer crises they have. It seems to prevent injuries as well as treat them. And the Wobenzym dogs recover much faster from surgery than other dogs. I watch for post-operation swelling and if it occurs, I increase the dose. Otherwise, they just stay on their maintenance dose before and after the operation. If they aren’t already taking Wobenzym, I recommend giving one tablet per 5 pounds of body weight twice a day for small dogs and one tablet per 10 pounds twice a day for large dogs, up to a maximum of five tablets at a time, for a week or two before elective surgery.

“I don’t know what I’d do without Wobenzym,” she concludes. “As far as I’m concerned, it’s a miracle.”

WOBENZYM: OVERVIEW

1. Keep Wobenzym on hand for injuries, or use daily for arthritis, inflammation, skin problems, or auto-immune disease.

2. Follow label directions or use one of the protocols described here.

3. Do not give to dogs with bleeding disorders. Check gums and eyes for spots, paleness, or signs of bleeding. Discontinue or reduce the dose if necessary.

4. Find a safe, effective maintenance dose that keeps your dog comfortable and active.

Understand Why Your Dog Growls

Clients always appear a bit stunned at first when I tell them their dog’s growl is a good thing. In fact, a growl is something to be greatly treasured.

These are my aggression consultation clients, who are in my office in desperation, as a last resort, hoping to find some magic pill that will turn their biting dog into a safe companion. They are often dismayed and alarmed to discover that the paradigm many of us grew up with – punish your dog harshly at the first sign of aggression – has contributed to and exacerbated the serious and dangerous behavior problem that has led them to my door.

professional dog behaviorist

It seems intuitive to punish growling. Growling leads to biting, and dogs who bite people often must be euthanized, so let’s save our dog’s life and nip biting in the bud by punishing him at the first sign of inappropriate behavior. It makes sense, in a way – but when you have a deeper understanding of canine aggression, it’s easy to understand why it’s the absolute wrong thing to do.

A Growl is a Communication Effort

Most dogs don’t want to bite or fight. The behaviors that signal pending aggression are intended first and foremost to warn away a threat. The dog who doesn’t want to bite or fight tries his hardest to make you go away. He may begin with subtle signs of discomfort that are often overlooked by many humans – tension in body movements, a stiffly wagging tail.

“Please,” he says gently, “I don’t want you to be here.”

If you continue to invade his comfort zone, his threats may intensify, with more tension, a hard stare, and a low growl.

“I mean it,” he says more firmly, “I want you to leave.”

If those are ignored, he may become more insistent, with an air snap, a bump of the nose, or even open mouth contact that closes gently on an arm but doesn’t break skin.

“Please,” he says, “don’t make me bite you.”

If that doesn’t succeed in convincing you to leave, the dog may feel compelled to bite hard enough to break skin in his efforts to protect self, territory, members of his social group, or other valuable resources.

Agression is Caused by Stress

What many people don’t realize is that aggression is caused by stress. The stressor may be related to pain, fear, intrusion, threats to resources, past association, or anticipation of any of these things. An assertive, aggressive dog attacks because he’s stressed by the intrusion of another dog or human into his territory. A fearful dog bites because he’s stressed by the approach of a human. An injured dog lacerates the hand of his rescuer because he’s stressed by pain.

When you punish a growl or other early warning signs, you may succeed in suppressing the growl, snarl, snap, or other warning behavior – but you don’t take away the stress that caused the growl in the first place. In fact, you increase the stress, because now you, the dog’s owner, have become unpredictable and violent as well.

Worst of all, and most significantly, if you succeed in suppressing the warning signs, you end up with a dog who bites without warning. He has learned that it’s not safe to warn, so he doesn’t.

dog stress triggers

If a dog is frightened of children, he may growl when a child approaches. You, conscientious and responsible owner, are well aware of the stigma – and fate – of dogs who bite children, so you punish your dog with a yank on the leash and a loud “No! Bad dog!” Every time your dog growls at a child you do this, and quickly your dog’s fear of children is confirmed – children do make bad things happen! He likes children even less, but he learns not to growl at them to avoid making you turn mean.

You think he’s learned that it’s not okay to be aggressive to children, because the next time one passes by, there’s no growl.

“Phew,” you think to yourself. “We dodged that bullet!”

Convinced that your dog now accepts children because he no longer growls at them, the next time one approaches and asks if he can pat your dog, you say yes. In fact, your dog has simply learned not to growl, but children still make him very uncomfortable. Your dog is now super-stressed, trying to control his growl as the child gets nearer and nearer so you don’t lose control and punish him, but when the scary child reaches out for him he can’t hold back any longer – he lunges forward and snaps at the child’s face. Fortunately, you’re able to restrain him with the leash so he doesn’t connect. You, the dog, and the child are all quite shaken by the incident.

It’s time to change your thinking.

When Dogs Cry for Help

A growl is a dog’s cry for help. It’s your dog’s way of telling you he can’t tolerate a situation – as if he’s saying, “I can’t handle this, please get me out of here!”

Your first response when you hear your dog growl should be to calmly move him away from the situation, while you make a mental note of what you think may have triggered the growl. Make a graceful exit. If you act stressed you’ll only add to his stress and make a bite more, not less, likely. Don’t worry that removing him rewards his aggression; your first responsibility is to keep others safe and prevent him from biting.

If the growl was triggered by something you were doing, stop doing it. Yes, your dog learned one tiny lesson about how to make you stop doing something he doesn’t like, but you’ll override that when you do lots of lessons about how that thing that made him uncomfortable makes really, really good stuff happen.

This is where counter-conditioning comes in. Your dog growls because he has a negative association with something – say he growls when you touch his paw. For some reason, he’s convinced that having his paw touched is a bad thing. If you start by touching his knee, then feeding him a smidgen of chicken, and keep repeating that, he’ll come to think that you touching his knee makes chicken happen. He’ll want you to touch his leg so he gets a bit of chicken.

Note: Make sure your dog’s discomfort with you touching his paw is not related to pain. If it hurts when you touch him there, counter-conditioning won’t work. It’s a good idea to get a full veterinary workup if there’s any chance your dog’s growling may be pain-related.

When you see him eagerly search for chicken when you touch his knee, you can move your hand slightly lower and touch there, until you get the same “Where’s my chicken?!” response at the new spot. Gradually move closer and closer to his paw, until he’s delighted to have you touch his foot – it makes chicken happen! Now practice with each foot, until he’s uniformly delighted to have you touch all of them. Remember that the touch comes first, so it consistently predicts the imminent arrival of chicken.

If at any time in the process – which could take days, weeks, or even months, depending on the dog and how well you apply the protocol – you see the dog’s tension increase, you’ve moved too quickly. Back up a few inches to where he’s comfortable being touched and start again. Or, there may be other stressors present that are increasing his tension. Do an environment check to be sure nothing else is happening that’s adding to his stress. Have the rowdy grandkids leave the room, give him a little time to relax, and start again.

Remember, dogs can’t tell us in words what’s bothering them, but they can communicate a lot with their body language and canine vocal sounds. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you. Listen with heart and compassion. Be gentle when your dog tells you he needs help. Come to his rescue. Treasure his growl.

-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. 

How Coconut Oil Benefits Your Dog’s Health

COCONUT OIL FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Sample coconut oils (only the products that have not been hydrogenated) from your health food store or online resources – and share them with your dog.

2. Feed small amounts and increase gradually to about 1 tablespoon per 30 lbs body weight daily.

3. Watch for changes in your dog’s energy, skin, coat, breath, and body odor.

4. Apply coconut oil topically to cuts, wounds, infected ears, bites, and stings.

What’s the hottest new health food for pets and people? If you’re like most Americans, it’s something you’ve been avoiding for years – either that or you think it’s a sun tan lotion, not a food. That’s right, we’re talking about coconut oil.

An important ingredient in America’s processed foods for most of the 20th century, coconut oil is one of the world’s few saturated-fat vegetable oils. That designation gave it a terrible reputation, and by the 1980s and ’90s, it all but disappeared from our food supply.

COCONUT OIL FOR DOGS

Then the vegetable oils that replaced it caused more harm than coconut oil ever did, and now coconut oil is making a comeback.

For thousands of years, coconuts have been a staple of tropical cuisines, and those who followed a traditional coconut-based diet, such as Pacific Islanders, had none of the heart disease, cancer, diabetes, or other illnesses that plague modern America.

Benefits of Coconut Oil

According to its advocates, when taken internally, coconut oil:

• Reduces the risk of cancer and other degenerative conditions

• Improves cholesterol levels and helps fight heart disease

• Improves digestion and nutrient absorption

• Heals digestive disorders like Crohn’s disease, irritable bowel syndrome, ulcers, and colitis

• Contains powerful antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal agents that prevent infection and disease

• Relieves arthritis

• Prevents and treats yeast and fungal infections, including thrush and candidiasis

• Prevents and treats viral infections, including herpes, measles, and the flu

• Helps balance the body’s metabolism and hormones

• Promotes normal thyroid function

• Helps prevent or control diabetes

• Rejuvenates the skin and protects against skin cancer, age spots, acne, and other blemishes

• Helps prevent osteoporosis

• Reduces allergic reactions

• Supplies fewer calories than other fats.

Applied topically, its boosters say that coconut oil also does the following:

• Disinfects cuts

• Promotes wound healing

• Improves skin health and hair condition

• Deodorizes whatever it touches (some people brush their teeth with it or use it as an underarm deodorant)

• Clears up warts, moles, psoriasis, eczema, dandruff, precancerous lesions, athlete’s foot, jock itch, diaper rash, ringworm, vaginal yeast infections, and toenail fungus.

All of this is excellent news for people and their dogs, for most of coconut oil’s human benefits are shared by canines. And dogs love the taste, which makes feeding coconut oil and other coconut products easy and pleasant.

The Right Type of Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is produced in Thailand, Fiji, the Philippines, Brazil, Indonesia, India, Sri Lanka, Jamaica, Hawaii, Mexico, the Solomon Islands, Belize, Samoa, and other countries around the world. Most health food stores carry at least one or two brands, and many retailers sell coconut oil online or by mail.

There are two main types of coconut oil.

Refined coconut oil (often labeled RBD for Refined, Bleached, and Deodorized) is made from copra, or dried coconut meat, then treated to remove impurities. Most RBD coconut oil is inexpensive, bland, and odorless. It doesn’t contain all of the nutrients found in unrefined coconut oil, its fragrance and flavor are different, and in most cases the coconuts used to produce it are of low quality and chemicals like chorine and hexane are used in the refining process. Some brands of refined coconut oil are labeled for use as a skin and hair care product.

Unrefined or “virgin” coconut oil, which is made from fresh coconuts, has culinary and health experts excited. Pressed by hand using traditional methods or manufactured in state-of-the-art factories, virgin coconut oil retains most of the nutrients found in fresh coconut.

In traditional methods, coconut meat is heated or baked until dry and then pressed, or fresh coconut milk is pressed from the meat and then heated to remove its water content, or freshly pressed coconut milk is allowed to ferment for 24 to 36 hours, during which the oil separates from the water. In modern factories, expeller-pressed coconut milk is centrifuged and vacuum-evaporated to remove water. Other methods of removing water from coconut oil include refrigeration and the use of enzymes.

The result of these traditional and modern manufacturing methods is an assortment of coconut oils in a range of flavors, prices, and quality.

Refined coconut oil can cost as little as $3 for a 16-ounce (one-pint) jar, while the same amount of virgin organic coconut oil can cost $18 or more. Several brands are available in larger sizes, including gallon tubs, which lowers their per-ounce cost considerably. Assuming the oil is correctly labeled and properly prepared, virgin organic coconut oil in glass rather than plastic is the favorite of most experts.

Depending on temperature, coconut oil will be solid or liquid. Below 75o Fahrenheit, coconut oil is solid and white, like lard or vegetable shortening, and it is sometimes called coconut butter. At 76o F and above, coconut oil is a transparent liquid.

Good-quality oil is colorless when liquid and pure white when solid, never yellow or pink, and it should not contain any residue or have an “off” or rancid odor. “Many people complain that coconut oil makes their throat feel scratchy or causes a burning sensation,” says Bruce Fife, ND, who has written several books about coconut oil. “The catch in the throat is a sign of poor quality. Some of these oils have a roasted or smoky flavor and aroma, which is another indication of poor quality, as it comes from smoke that contaminates the oil during heat processing.”

The only exceptions to the 76-degree rule are hydrogenated and fractionated coconut oils.

Hydrogenated coconut oil, which is solid at room temperature and melts at 92o F, is sold as a soap ingredient and as a food – but because it contains harmful trans-fats, we don’t recommend it for you or your dog. A 1954 study in which hydrogenated coconut oil raised the cholesterol of laboratory rabbits set the stage for coconut oil’s removal from America’s food supply. All research suggesting that coconut oil is harmful to health was conducted using hydrogenated oil, while studies conducted with nonhydrogenated coconut oil show that coconut oil protects the heart and improves overall health (see “Resources and Recommended Reading” sidebar).

Fractionated coconut oil, also known as caprylic/capric triglyceride, is a popular massage oil and aromatherapy ingredient because it remains liquid at temperatures far below 75o F. To make it, coconut oil is heated and the top liquid fraction removed, purifying the oil by removing molds, fungus spores, and pesticide residues. Fractionated coconut oil is sold as a cosmetic ingredient.

Medium-Chain Fatty Acids in Coconut Oil

Most of coconut oil’s health benefits come from medium-chain fatty acids (MCFAs), also known as medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). According to former University of Maryland biochemist and dietary fats researcher Mary Enig, PhD, “The lauric acid in coconut oil is used by the body to make the same disease-fighting fatty acid derivative monolaurin that babies make from the lauric acid they get from their mothers’ milk. The monoglyceride monolaurin is the substance that keeps infants from getting viral, bacterial, or protozoal infections.”

Coconut oil’s capric and caprylic acid have similar properties and are best known for their antifungal effects. Like lauric acid, capric acid helps balance insulin levels.

In addition to protecting the body against infection, medium-chain fatty acids are efficiently metabolized to provide an immediate source of fuel and energy, enhancing athletic performance and aiding weight loss. In fact, several coconut diet books are now in print.

“The energy boost you get from coconut oil is not like the kick you get from caffeine,” says Dr. Fife. “It gently elevates the metabolism, provides a higher level of energy and vitality, protects you from illness, and speeds healing. In dogs, the medium-chain fatty acids in coconut oil balance the thyroid, helping overweight dogs lose weight and helping sedentary dogs feel energetic. As a bonus, coconut oil improves any dog’s skin and coat, improves digestion, and reduces allergic reactions.”

During the last few decades, extensive research on medium-chain fatty acids has documented their health benefits, and many supplements and health foods contain MCFAs or MCTs. You’ll find them listed that way on their labels – but their source, which isn’t listed, is always coconut oil. “We’ve become so phobic about coconut oil,” says Dr. Fife, “that manufacturers who appreciate its benefits have been smuggling it into all kinds of products. Start reading labels and you’ll be surprised at all the MCFAs and MCTs. Those abbreviations always mean coconut oil.”

Giving Coconut Oil to Dogs

No one has tested coconut oil’s effect on dogs in clinical trials, but the anecdotal evidence is impressive. Reports published on Internet forums describe how overweight dogs become lean and energetic soon after they begin eating coconut oil, or their shabby-looking coats become sleek and glossy, and dogs with arthritis or ligament problems grow stronger and more lively. Even some serious diseases have responded. In one case, a Doberman Pinscher with severe Wobblers made a dramatic recovery in less than a week while taking coconut oil.

Other reports involve itchy skin, cuts, wounds, and ear problems. Dogs with flea allergies, contact dermatitis, or other allergic reactions typically stop scratching soon after coconut oil is added to their food, and dogs treated topically for bites, stings, ear mites, ear infections, cuts, or wounds recover quickly. One dog was stung by a bee, causing her mouth to swell. An hour after her owner applied coconut oil to the sting and gave her a tablespoon to swallow, the swelling disappeared and the dog was herself again.

The Deodorizing Power of Coconut Oil

The most enthusiastic reports describe coconut oil’s deodorizing effects.

Bob Ansley in Shallotte, North Carolina, started feeding his “incredibly smelly” black Lab, Smokey Joe, the coconut oil he drains from his wok after frying eggs, sausages, and other foods.

“Joe’s coat shined up,” says Ansley, “but the real surprise was that he stopped stinking. He has always smelled really bad, and bathing was a waste of time. For years when I petted him, I had to hold my hands away from my clothes and go wash my hands soon and thoroughly. My wife and kids wouldn’t touch him. Now I can pet him and rub him like he craves without having to run and wash up. The stench is gone and we didn’t even change his bedding. I’m pretty amazed. The cure was cheap, too!”

In the months since he started giving Smokey Joe his leftover coconut oil, Ansley has often skipped a few days. As soon as he does, the odor comes back – and as soon as he resumes feeding coconut oil, the odor disappears.

Pam Gillmore of Austin, Texas, is a raw foods chef who teaches healthful food preparation. “I don’t have a dog of my own because I travel so much,” Gillmore says, “but all my friends have dogs. I sell a high-quality organic raw virgin coconut oil from Mexico that has produced super results in people, and they’re always asking me how to help their dogs, cats, or other animals. Coconut oil has done wonders with all of them, especially dogs.”

Gillmore also reports that dogs who receive coconut oil stop itching and scratching and their skin clears up. “Their coats really shine after they have been on it for a while. Skin tags and moles disappear after a month or two. Their digestion improves. And they don’t have a doggie odor – the coconut oil even takes away bad breath.”

Gillmore suggests that the best way to give coconut oil is in small doses throughout the day, “a spoonful here or there depending on the dog’s weight.” She also says that she has not yet met a dog who does not like the oil – “They usually lap it right up,” she says. “Some folks fry eggs in it and make a little extra for their dogs, or they put some in leftover oatmeal or add it to the dog’s dinner, but many give it straight off the spoon.”

Gillmore concludes, “I can’t say enough about how coconut oil helps animals. During the last eight years, I’ve seen over a hundred dogs improve in all kinds of ways because of coconut oil. I’ve even had people give it to their pet snakes and birds!”

More Coconut Oil Anecdotes

Bruce Fife has collected coconut oil stories for years, and one of his favorites, mentioned in his new book, Coconut Cures, is from a man whose dog developed a lump next to her eye.

“The veterinarian said it looked like a tumor,” the owner reported, “and he recommended immediate surgery. I figured that if coconut oil is good for humans, it should be good for animals as well, so I began applying it to the lump on my dog’s forehead. As time passed, the lump grew smaller and smaller and eventually disappeared. It never returned. We avoided the surgery.

“Some time later my other dog developed sores just above his upper lip. The vet gave him an antibiotic, but it didn’t seem to do any good. After a week I stopped the medication and began applying coconut oil to the sores. They got worse for a few days and then began to heal. He recovered without a problem.”

How to Give Your Dog Coconut Oil

For convenient application, store coconut oil in both a glass eyedropper bottle and a small jar. During cold weather, these containers are easy to warm in hot water so that the oil quickly melts.

Use the eyedropper to apply coconut oil to ears, cuts, wounds, mouth sores, and other targeted areas, including your dog’s toothbrush.

Use the small jar to apply coconut oil to larger areas, such as cracked paw pads. Coconut oil is not fast-drying, so use a towel or tissue to remove excess oil as needed. The main challenge with coconut oil’s topical application is that dogs love the taste and immediately lick it off. To give coconut oil a chance to disinfect wounds and speed healing, cover the wound with a towel for a few minutes, or distract the dog long enough for at least some of the oil to be absorbed.

Coconut oil is also an excellent massage oil and carrier oil for use with medicinal herbs and aromatherapy. Any of the essential oils mentioned in “Essential Information” (January 2005) can be diluted in coconut oil for safe, effective canine application, and coconut oil is a perfect base for the herbal salves and oils described in “Savvy Salves” (August 2005).

In addition to lubricating the skin and joints, coconut oil acts as a natural preservative, is exceptionally stable, has a long shelf life, does not require refrigeration, and is such a powerful disinfectant that it reduces the need for germ-killing essential oils in aromatherapy blends designed to fight infection.

Start with Small Doses

Solid or liquid coconut oil can be added to food at any meal or given between meals. The optimum dose for dogs is about 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight daily, or 1 tablespoon per 30 pounds. These are general guidelines, as some dogs need less and others more.

But don’t start with these amounts. Instead, introduce coconut oil a little at a time in divided doses. Because coconut oil kills harmful bacteria, viruses, parasites, yeasts, and fungi, the burden of removing dead organisms can trigger symptoms of detoxification. Headaches, fatigue, diarrhea, and flu-like symptoms are common in humans who consume too much too fast, and similar symptoms can occur in dogs.

Even in healthy dogs, large amounts of coconut oil can cause diarrhea or greasy stools while the body adjusts. Start with small amounts, such as ¼ teaspoon per day for small dogs or puppies and 1 teaspoon for large dogs. Gradually increase the amount every few days. If your dog seems tired or uncomfortable or has diarrhea, reduce the amount temporarily.

Coconut oil isn’t the only coconut product that’s good for dogs. Fresh or dried coconut is an excellent source of dietary fiber, and dogs enjoy and benefit from the same coconut flakes, coconut flour, coconut cream, coconut milk, shredded coconut, and coconut spreads used by their human companions. Just be sure the products are unsweetened and free from chemical preservatives.

Canine Joint Health

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By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Western medicine’s mechanistic theory regards the body’s joints simply as the anatomic sites where the lever action of bones enables body movement. However, joints are much more complex than this, anatomically, mechanistically, and functionally. And when disease exists within any joint, the result can be completely disabling – not only to the local area but also to the entire body. If we view joints as another of the body’s organ systems with a multitude of functions, we will have a better chance to see their importance in the holistic balance of the animal’s overall well-being.

For starters, it is important to appreciate that joints would have no function at all without their supporting cast of surrounding muscles, ligaments, tendons, nerves, shock absorbers (spinal discs and joint meniscuses), and lubricant-producing synovial membrane. Further, a joint’s functional surfaces are poorly supplied with blood and lymph vessels, and they are isolated from other tissues by means of a sturdy joint capsule – this lack of circulation and isolation makes healing of any disease process within joints much more difficult. A short list of some of the functions of joints (in addition to their mechanical function as motion-producing levers) includes: • Stability. Joint-stabilizing structures surrounding the joints include ligaments (fibrous tissues that join from bone to bone), tendons (fibrous cord-like extensions of muscles that attach the muscles to bones), and muscles. Dogs with a fit and healthy muscle mass surrounding the hips are best-protected against developing hip dysplasia. • Proprioception. The ligaments, tendons, and especially the small muscles surrounding the joints are rich in proprioceptive nerve endings – nerves that relay to the dog’s brain the position of all its body parts at any one time. Proprioceptive information is vital for body balance, especially when the dog is moving. • Lubrication. Synovial membranes (the inner lining of the joint capsule) produce a slippery substance that acts as lubrication so that joint surfaces can move freely against each other. • Shock absorption. Bone ends are composed of soft, cartilaginous tissue that acts as a shock absorber for moving and weight-bearing bones. In addition, some joints have additional padding – examples include the discs between the vertebrae of the spine and the meniscus of the knee (the knee’s meniscus is a crescent-shaped fibrocartilaginous pad located within the joint). The “shock” of lateral and rotational motions is held in check by the joint’s surrounding tissues: muscles, tendons, and ligaments. • Spring action. Tensions on ligaments and tendons create within the joint a spring-like action, in a mechanical fashion much like the tightening and loosening of a rubber band. In addition, the anatomical setup of the joint itself may be spring-like, offering protection during compression and extra oomph during its expansion phase. (Think of the hock here, with its amazing ability to compress down and then spring apart when the dog leaps.) • Whole-body flexibility. Joints are, of course, responsible for the body’s flexibility, but it is important that this flexibility is actively and persistently utilized through movement (exercise) and that it is maintained in balance. • Structural realignment. Joints are the primary sites for structural realignment of the skeleton’s supporting structure. Chronic trauma or excess structural pressures (from anatomically mal-aligned bones) start a process of inflammation and new bone growth, which ultimately creates an increased amount of bony tissue along the side of the joint that is responding to the pressure. This bone growth is often painful and may become so painful as to render the joint unusable. • Pain. Pain located in the region of the joint may become so severe the animal becomes reluctant to move, and as the joint becomes less and less active, it ultimately may produce enough compensatory bony tissue (exostosis) to completely fuse the area into an immovable joint. • Immune function. Scientists haven’t yet determined the exact extent of the immune function of an animal’s joints, but we do know that the joints can be severely affected when the immune system has gone amok – rheumatoid arthritis is our signifier here. It’s my guess that as we further evaluate the joints, we will discover their vital role in maintaining a healthy, whole-body immune system – joints are, after all, involved in every body movement (one of the factors that determines life itself), and they are in constant contact with some of the longest-lived tissues in the body (bone). Joint anatomy Simply defined, a joint is the site where two or more bones articulate with one another, creating a lever that results in motion of the corresponding body parts. There are many ways joints create this articulation, and various classifications of joints result from these differences. The most common classification corresponds to the structural geometry of the joint. This results in terms such as a “ball and socket” joint (such as the hip) and a “hinge” joint (such as the dog’s carpus, similar to the human wrist). Hinge joints typically move like a door hinge, in one line of direction only. A true ball and socket joint would be able to move in all directions: forward, backward, laterally, medially, and rotationally. However, some ball and socket joints are limited in their totality of movement somewhat by the structures surrounding the joint. Surrounding structures Many (but not all) joints are surrounded by a thick and fibrous capsule, which effectively protects the inner workings of the joint and creates a barrier to injury and infections. The joint capsule’s inner lining, the synovial membrane, produces a thick, gelatinous fluid that acts as lubrication for the joint. Most of the nutrients needed for the joint and cartilaginous tissues at the ends of bones come from the synovial fluids – an important consideration since cartilage and the joint surfaces are poorly supplied by blood vessels. Synovial tissues react to trauma and invading infections; the result is an increased thickness of tissue along with increased production of the components of inflammation. This inflammatory synovial reaction can be assessed via needle biopsy. Tendons are fibrous extensions of muscles that attach the muscle to bone; when the muscle contracts, it moves its attached bone across the “lever” of the joint. Ligaments are attached across the joint, bone to bone; their primary function is to stabilize the joint. Both ligaments and tendons are sturdy structures that, when they are healthy, have enough strength (almost as much as bone itself) to withstand many times the forces that a joint would normally be exposed to. Ligaments and tendons are primarily composed of fibrous and cartilaginous tissues, but both also contain some elastic tissue to allow for a certain amount of stretching. Fascia is a fibrous connective tissue that surrounds tendons and ligaments, dividing larger muscle masses into smaller muscle “bellies.” Fascia also protects blood vessels as they course through the muscles. In fact, the contraction and relaxation of the blanket of fascia surrounding blood vessels acts as a secondary blood pump that enhances blood flow through tendons and into joints whenever the dog is active – yet another reason to make sure your dog gets enough exercise. Muscles that surround the joint are also an important component of stability and proprioception. The more fit the muscles, the more stable the joint. There is some evidence that exercise helps develop proprioceptive nerve centers in the smaller muscles around joints, thus providing fit individuals with a better sense of balance. Joint function Proper functioning of the joint depends on several factors, including: • Anatomy that creates proper alignment of the joint surfaces – skeletal alignment that allows the joints to move in the direction(s) they were meant to move in • Surrounding tissues that provide flexibility as well as stability • Articulating surfaces that are relatively smooth and that are lubricated for ease of motion • A functioning proprioceptive nervous system that connects the joints to the brain and that relays an accurate positioning of the body parts involved • A balanced, whole-body immune system that can maintain an immune response to fend off minor infections or injuries AND can do so without creating an overactive immune response (as seen with rheumatoid arthritis, for example). Joints and joint surfaces There have been a lot of recent studies on the physiology of joints, probably because we now recognize that they are a prime site of disease in both dogs and humans. Nearly 70 million people suffer from arthritis or some form of chronic joint pain, and joint conditions – especially chronic conditions – may be the number one disease entity seen by holistic veterinarians. When joint physiology is good, the smooth surfaces where the bones come into contact with each other articulate with ease and their weight-bearing forces are cushioned on impact. The functional health of joints is achieved by a balance of cartilage regeneration and degeneration, coupled with an adequate production of lubricating substances. The cartilaginous ends of bones are mostly water (some 65 to 80 percent of the total matrix), with most of the balance of the matrix being a mixture of collagen and proteoglycans. Within the mix are a small number of chondrocytes, the cells responsible for repair and regulation of cartilage tissues. Collagen is a primary connective tissue that exists in various forms and performs many different functions. It acts like an adhesive or glue-like substance throughout the body, helps maintain structure, and in cartilage, provides a framework to hold the proteoglycans in place as well as providing elasticity and shock absorbency. Proteoglycans are complex molecules composed of sugars and proteins. They interlink with collagen fibers, helping to make the cartilage resilient so it can stretch and spring back into place. Proteoglycans also trap water, acting like a sponge, which gives cartilage the flexibility needed for the constant motion of the joint. Proteoglycans link to core proteins to form glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which are important components used for joint healing. Any excess demand – in the form of wear and tear, or as a result of infection-induced and/or immune-mediated degenerative processes – can be cause for erosion of the bone’s cartilage. Once again, we have created the most common reason for excess wear and tear of the joints; dogs with skeletal structures that are unnatural for the species are certain to be more susceptible to abnormal wear and tear of their joints. Excess joint erosion precipitates an inflammatory response, resulting in synovial membrane thickening and the release of white blood cells and other products of inflammation. As the erosion of the cartilage proceeds, the joint surface becomes rough and eventually the animal may begin to experience pain. Further erosion may remove the protective layer of cartilage, leaving bone to rub against bone. The body’s healing mechanisms interpret bone against bone as excess structural stress, and the body responds by producing more bone to counter the stress. This “new” bone often forms as disorganized clumps of bony tissue (exostoses) surrounding the joint, and these bony proliferations cause more pain (and more inflammation) as tender tissues rub against them. Without something to halt the process, it becomes ongoing, chronic, and progressively worse. Repair of damaged joint tissue can begin after the inciting cause has been eliminated or removed. Then, the few chondrocytes located in the bone ends can begin to (slowly) add new cartilaginous tissue. The key component to the synthesis of new cartilaginous tissue is the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), for which glucosamine is the basic building block. Tendons and ligaments Tendons are the cord-like extensions of muscles that attach muscles to bones. It is through this attachment that the tendons move adjacent bones. This levering action depends on the tendon’s ability to slip and slide – an ability made possible by a slippery-surfaced sheath that surrounds the tendon. The tendon sheath is kept functional by a constantly balanced process of new tissue growth and tissue degradation, with the new tissues always being aligned with the tendon’s need to be slippery. Here’s the rub: If a tendon is severely damaged, the body tries to repair it by forming a scar, and the scar’s only purpose is to reunite damaged ends of the tear. As the torn tendon heals, the scar will likely fuse the ends without returning the normally slippery function of the tendon. There are several surgical methods to help maintain normal tendon function, but the caveat is that the surgical attempts must be done immediately (within hours) and that the surgeon be proficient in joint repair. The need for super precise joint movements is generally not so great in dogs as it is in humans (especially in human fingers), and adequate function can usually be retained after “normal” surgical procedures. Tendon repair takes about six weeks. During the first three weeks the opposing ends of the tendon need to be kept immobile; during the next three weeks the tendon needs to have some movement (through less vigorous external splinting) to allow for remodeling that will (we hope) include the addition of a tendon sheath to provide for slippage. Complete healing may take more than a year, and the completely healed tendon will likely be only 90 percent as strong as it was originally.

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Ligament healing is not predictable; some heal, seemingly spontaneously; others are almost impossible to repair, even with the best of surgical techniques. For these problem ligaments, techniques have been developed to use transplanted fibrous tissues to repair the damage. Another potential problem arises when bone fragments or particles of cartilage flake off from areas of joint inflammation, and they become abrasive “floaters” that add to a joint’s pain and inflammatory process. Usually, the only cure for these floaters is to have them surgically removed. Whenever you suspect severe trauma to a joint – for example, when your dog experiences a sudden onset of limping, exhibits obvious pain when moving, or refuses to walk, climb stairs, jump up on or down from furniture, or rise from a sleeping position – see a vet as soon as possible, and consider getting a second opinion from a board certified veterinary surgeon. Diseases of joints and surrounding tissues • Osteochondrosis is a disturbance in the formation of normal cartilaginous tissue; it’s considered a congenital or inherited disease. Immature articular cartilage separates from the underlying bone and floats free in the joint cavity, causing pain, inflammation, and eventually excess bone growth within and around the joint. The disease may affect the shoulder, elbow, stifle, or hock joints. Osteochondrosis typically develops in large breed dogs, and the lesions occur during the maximal growth phase of the skeleton – when the dog is four to eight months of age. Limiting the growth phase of large breed dogs may help prevent the disease. Floating bits of cartilage (also called “joint mice”) need to be removed surgically, and joint fluid modifiers such as glucosamine may also help with repair and prevent further damage to the articular surfaces. Acupuncture may also speed healing. Prognosis for recovery is excellent for shoulders, good for the stifle, and fair for the elbow and tarsal (hock) joints. • Elbow dysplasia is a generalized term that describes several entities, all of which result in abnormal elbow joint function (some of which seem to be genetic). Elbow problems typically develop in young, large, rapidly growing dogs – affected animals demonstrate abnormal bone growth, joint stresses, or cartilage development. The joint is painful, causing the dog to limp, and radiographs are often needed to confirm the various conditions. Treatment is the same as for osteochondrosis, discussed above. • Hip dysplasia may be the biggest joint problem to confront dog owners and breeders in this country. This multifactorial disease affects a high number of dogs, and we don’t yet have a good handle on what causes it, nor what is an effective cure. Further, there is a definite genetic component to hip dysplasia, but the genetics aren’t clear-cut. Some dogs that aren’t supposed to be affected (according to statistical probability) are, and visa versa. While hip dysplasia is far too vast a topic to cover in this article, the following observations may be helpful. Excessive growth, exercise, nutrition, and hereditary factors all affect the occurrence of the disease. Dogs who grow too rapidly for the amount of muscle mass surrounding their hip joints are more prone to joint laxity, which in turn allows for excess movement within the joint. As the joint becomes increasingly unstable, its excessive movements lead to inflammation and ultimately degenerative joint changes – fibrosis, bony growths around the joint, flattening of the femoral head and the acetabulum (the socket joint of the hip that the “ball” of the femoral head fits into), and possibly subluxation or luxation of the femoral head. The changes of hip dysplasia tend to be progressive; however, dogs do not always have symptoms that correspond to the severity of the changes evident on radiographs. Some dogs are practically immobile with only slight changes; others might have severe changes but appear symptom-free. Dogs with symptoms have varying degrees of lameness that tend to get worse with exercise. The first sign of hip dysplasia is often a dog’s reluctance to climb stairs or difficultly when getting up or lying down. Some dogs with hip dysplasia may exhibit a rabbit-like, hopping gait when running. Radiographs help determine the amount of physical damage to the joint, but don’t always correlate with the dog’s symptoms. Prevention efforts are primarily aimed toward identifying potentially affected individuals (with screening X-rays and palpation) and removing them from the breeding pool. There is new interest in the potential of gene mapping. Each of the methods has its own strengths and shortcomings. Look for a board certified veterinary radiologist to do any final evaluations. Conventional treatments include pain relief and various forms of surgery. I’ve found alternative medicines to be especially helpful for hip dysplasia; I use a combination of acupuncture and chiropractic along with nutritional and nutriceutical remedies and possibly herbal support. • Septic or infectious arthritis can be from penetrating trauma (including surgery) or from a spread of infection from other parts of the body. Pain and swelling are common symptoms of infected joints. A needle biopsy of the joint may reveal increased numbers of white blood cells and possibly the instigating microorganism; X-rays may indicate inflammatory response and/or bony changes. Due to the lack of an abundant blood supply to the area, joint infections often require high doses of the specific antibiotic indicated for the microorganism involved. • Immune-mediated arthritis is the consequence of secondary deposits of immune complexes within joints, usually affecting all the joints of the body. These immune complexes cause an inflammatory response that may erode the joint surface (rheumatoid arthritis) or be nonerosive as with systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE). Joints swell and are painful, the dog becomes lame, and he may run a fever and refuse to move or eat. Treatments are aimed at eliminating the pain and rebalancing the immune system. The immune-mediated diseases are another area where I’ve had especially good results using alternative medicines. Most of the alternative approaches (especially acupuncture, homeopathy, and herbal remedies) can help balance the immune system while the remedies are being directed toward specific areas of disease. • Neoplastic arthritis is rare – fortunately, because it tends to be an aggressive neoplasia; the usual recommendation is to amputate the limb. • Trauma to joints is not uncommon. It may present itself in several ways: Joint fractures may occur in any joint, but they are most common in immature animals. They typically occur within the joint, at the growth plate (physis) of the bone, which is its weakest point. The goal for treating a joint fracture is to bring the fractured ends back together and to hold them there until healing takes place. Ligament tears and ruptures are also common. Pain and swelling are evident, and the intensity of the symptoms depends on the extent of the tear. The anterior/cranial and posterior/caudal cruciate ligaments help stabilize the knee joint by crossing from lateral to medial (thus the term “cruciate”) and spanning across the joint from the femur to the tibia. Rupture of the anterior cruciate ligament is a fairly common occurrence. It is caused by excessive trauma, weakened ligaments from immune-mediated causes, and/or poor conformation (straight-legged dogs). Diagnosis of a cruciate ligament is made through palpation (to discern the amount of abnormal movement of the knee) and x-rays. Some dogs recover without any treatment; others respond to weight reduction, immobilization of the joint, acupuncture, and physical therapy; still others will require surgical repair. Surgery typically grafts a tendon from another part of the dog’s body to act as a replacement for the one torn. • Traumatic dislocation of the hip, or hip luxation, is often the result of being hit by a car. It results in lameness, pain when the leg is manipulated, and a shortened affected limb. Treatment either involves nonsurgical manipulation of the limb to reposition it, followed by the use of slings to maintain it in the joint, or surgical stabilization using pins or sutures. Treatment overview Treating any ongoing arthritic problem, no matter its cause, involves the following: • Halting the initial reason that caused the inflammatory process • Repairing the damage already present • Returning the joint (as much as possible) to normal function; without function, the joint will ultimately fuse • Enhancing the healing process. Repair of the damaged surface of a joint depends on several factors, including: • Removal of the inciting cause. Examples include removing exostoses and joint floaters, eliminating infection, or rebalancing the immune system in the case of immune-mediated arthritis. • Return to a more normal joint movement (if possible). • Pain control. Returning to normal joint movement usually requires some easing of existing pain, either via acupuncture, chiropractic adjustments, or herbal (or other) remedies. And, a joint will remain normal only if its functional way of moving has returned to near-normal. • Provide the necessary basics for healing, using nutrients and nutriceuticals Natural medicines for joints I consider chiropractic and acupuncture as the one-two punch for any problem involving the musculoskeletal system; both are especially effective for treating joint conditions. Chiropractic is used in an attempt to return the joint to its normal function – a necessary prerequisite for any long-term healing of the joints. Acupuncture is a proven therapy for alleviating pain and enhancing the immune system. Plus, it may offer a necessary “energetic” to enhance healing. Homeopathic remedies, especially when used in the classical way, may be curative for joint diseases, but I generally consider them to be more helpful as an acute therapy for pain. Remedies that I have found to be effective for my patients include: Arnica, used early-on for acute pain; Rhus tox for the “rusty gate” syndrome – the limp that gets better with use; Byronia for the limp that gets worse with movement; Hypericum for pain; and Ruta for deep pain. Massage and physical therapy can be vital therapies to help in the healing process. These methods help eliminate pain, and physical therapy, in particular, helps return the joint’s normal function by helping it move through its normal range. There are dozens of herbs that can be helpful for treating joint diseases, and they can be especially helpful for providing nontoxic pain relief and for balancing the immune system. In addition, there are some herbs that have been used to treat specific joint problems. Check with an herbalist who has some experience using herbs to treat animals for the appropriate herbs and their dosages. [Editor’s note: Also see Dr. Kidd’s book, Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care.] Nutrients and nutriceuticals. There has been much recent buzz about using nutrients and nutriceuticals for joint healing, and the interest has been for good reason – many, if not most, animals with joint conditions respond to varying degrees after a month or so of treatment. There are several of the glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and proteoglycans that have been used. The most popular are glucosamine (the basic building block for cartilaginous tissue) and chondroitin sulfate, which prevents other body enzymes from degrading the building blocks of joint cartilage. Methylsulphonylmethane (MSM) is another substance that is often added to “joint-repair” mixtures. It supplies needed sulphur molecules and seems to provide additional pain relief. There are a variety of these products available commercially, and even some of today’s commercial dog foods contain them (although probably not in amounts that could possibly be therapeutic). My own experience would indicate that it will take your dog at least 30 days to respond to any of the nutriceuticals mentioned. Further, one product does not fit all; in my experience, some dogs respond to one product and not others, and visa versa. If one product doesn’t seem to be working after a few months trial, first try increasing the dosage for a month or so. If that doesn’t work, try another product. In every case I can think of, we have eventually come up with a product that seems to be helpful. Recent evidence indicates that the Omega-3 fats are beneficial for helping with the joint healing process. Manganese is needed for healthy cartilage formation and it is used in several enzymatic processes in the body. Supplemental vitamin C (especially in the form of sodium ascorbate) is also beneficial for tissue healing. For dosages and method of application of the nutriceuticals and nutrients, check with your holistic veterinarian. Also With This Article “Joint Supplements for Dogs” “Identifying Arthritis in Dogs” -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

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Pre-Puppy Preparation

Most people spend months preparing for the arrival of a new baby. They’re just as likely, however, to bring a baby dog home on a whim, without any preparation at all. Small wonder they find themselves playing catch-up for weeks, months, years, or even “getting rid of” the dog as they struggle to recover from the mistakes made in the pup’s formative months.

For example, a lack of a crate, puppy pen, or baby gates from day one makes housetraining “mistakes” inevitable. This can set back later housetraining efforts by weeks or even months, as the puppy is triggered to eliminate in spots where he smells remnants of his past “accidents.”

The wise puppy-owner-to-be puts much thought into pre-puppy preparation. When I was a preteen, my parents had the foresight one Christmas to put a gift certificate and a dog bowl and leash in a wrapped package under the tree rather than rushing out to buy the Collie puppy I’d been asking for as a living holiday gift. That gave us plenty of time to prepare for the new canine baby as a family, and to give our new dog a carefully structured introduction to our home.

Pre-puppy preparations fall into three categories:

• Supplies and equipment
• Service providers
• House rules and routines

Puppy Supplies and Equipment

There’s lots of puppy stuff you’ll need to make your puppy comfortable, happy, and successful as he learns to adapt to your alien environment. The following is an abbreviated list from “Tools That Make Dog Training a Breeze,” WDJ February 2002.

1. Crate. A crate is an indispensable behavior management tool; it facilitates housetraining and prevents puppy misbehavior by keeping your dog safely confined when you’re not there to supervise. It allows you to sleep peacefully at night and enjoy dinner and a movie without worrying about what the pup is destroying. See “Crate Training Made Easy,” WDJ August 2000.

2. Puppy pen/exercise pen. This is another extremely useful management tool, but it expands the “den” concept of a crate to a slightly larger area, giving a pup more room to stretch her legs, yet still keeping her in a safe, confined area. Many people include a “restroom” facility, by using a tarp underneath the pen and newspapers on top of that at one end.

3. Tether. This is a short (about four feet in length) plastic-coated cable with sturdy snaps at both ends. Tethers are intended to temporarily restrain a dog for relatively short periods of time in your presence, as an aid in a puppy supervision and house- training program, and as a time-out to settle unruly behavior. They should not be used as punishment, or to restrain a dog for long periods in your absence. See “Tethered to Success,” April 2001.

4. Collar, ID tag, leash, and harness.

5. Seat belt. Use a car restraint that fastens to your car’s seat belts and your dog’s harness (never a collar) to keep her safe, and safely away from the driver. See “Dogs Riding Safely and Calmly in Cars,” February 2004.

6. Clicker. Properly used as a reward marker, a clicker significantly enhances your communication with your furry friend and speeds up the training process. See “The Cop and the Clicker,” March 2001.

7. Treats. A clicker, of course, is nothing without an accompanying reward. We use treats as the primary reward to pair with the clicker because most dogs can be motivated by food, and because they can quickly eat a small tidbit and get back to the training fun.

8. Long line. A lightweight, strong, extra-long leash (10 to 50 feet), the long line is an ideal tool to help your dog learn to come reliably when called regardless of where we are or what other exciting things are happening. WDJ reviewed long lines in “Long Distance Information,” February 2001.

9. Kong toys. If we could buy only one toy for our dog, it would be a Kong, a chew-resistant (not chew-proof) rubber, beehive-shaped toy with a hollow center. A Kong can be used “plain” as a toy, but makes an irresistible treat for any dog when stuffed with kibble or treats that are held in place with something healthy and edible like peanut butter, cream cheese, or yogurt. See “The Many Uses of the Kong,” October 2000.

10. Balls, interactive toys, fetch toys.

11. Grooming tools. Choose combs and brushes appropriate for your dog’s type of coat (ask a groomer or vet), shampoo and conditioner, scissors, nail clippers, cotton balls, and toothbrushes. Start using these tools on your puppy early, pairing the experience with tasty treats so she forms a positive association with the task.

12. House cleaning tools. See “Housetraining Puppies,” January 1999; “Best Dog Grooming Tools for Shedding,” April 2004, and “Biodegradable Poop Bags,” June 2005.

Puppy Care Service Providers

It’s never too soon to start researching the corps of professionals who will help you raise your puppy right. That list will include her veterinarian (or veterinarians, including an emergency hospital, holistic vet, and “regular” vet), training instructor, and perhaps a groomer, pet sitter/walker, doggie daycare provider, and boarding kennel. Grab your phone book, make a separate list for each category, and check them out.

Start with a telephone call. If the provider can’t be bothered to be pleasant on the phone, chances are they won’t be nice in person either. Cross them off.

If they pass the phone attitude test, inquire whether you can visit, ask a few questions, and watch them at work. Then visit. Do they handle canine and human clients gently, and with respect? Are the dogs enjoying themselves, or do they at least appear comfortable? Are the facilities clean, without offensive odor? If the answers to these questions are yes, they stay on the list. If not, cross them off. Make notes next to each of the finalists on your list to remind you whom you liked best and why.

Finally, ask for references. Call the references and ask if they’ve been satisfied with the provider, if they seem reliable and consistently dog-friendly. Then pick your favorite animal care professionals, and let them know you’d like to become a client when your pup arrives. After you’ve made your final decisions, make a list of names, addresses and phone numbers to post on your refrigerator along with the phone numbers and locations of your local animal shelters – in case your precious pup should ever get lost.

Editor’s note: We can’t stress enough the importance of finding a good holistic veterinarian as soon as possible. These practitioners tend to have a more conservative approach to vaccinations than conventional veterinarians – important if you want to prevent the mid- to late-life health problems that some experts believe are related to a lifetime of overvaccination (see “Understanding Canine Vaccinations,” June 2005).

You’ll also want a reliable holistic practitioner in your corner if your dog is diagnosed with a serious condition. We receive innumerable calls from people who are frantically seeking an immediate referral to a holistic veterinarian to treat their dog for cancer and other diseases that took a long time to develop. The problem is, it’s not easy to find someone who practices the type of medicine you feel most comfortable with, and certainly almost impossible in an emergency situation.

New Puppy House Rules and Routines

Rules and routines are especially important if there’s more than one human in the house, to encourage consistency, an important element of successful puppy-raising. When your pup joins your family, she’ll experiment with different behaviors to try to figure out how the world works, and how to make good stuff happen – a dog’s main mission in life. The more consistent everyone is, the quicker she’ll figure it all out.

Your rules and routines will reflect your dog-raising and -training philosophies. To develop a relationship with your dog based on mutual trust, respect, and cooperation, implement nonviolent management and training techniques, and avoid methods that require harsh verbal correction and physical punishment. The better you are at keeping your pup out of trouble and reinforcing desirable behaviors, the less you’ll be upset with her and the sooner she’ll develop good habits. (See “Improving the Dog/Human Relationship,” August 2002.)

Here are some issues for your family to discuss and agree on:

Where will your puppy sleep? We suggest in a crate in someone’s bedroom until the pup’s at least a year old and fully housetrained and house trustworthy; then her own bed or someone’s bed (or wherever else she wants) is okay.

Will she be allowed on the furniture? We’re okay with dogs on the furniture within reason – not the kitchen table, of course – as long as it’s not creating any aggression or other behavior problems. We like our dogs to ask permission first if we’re on the sofa and they want to join us.

Where will she be during the day? The best answer is with you, if you have the luxury of working at home or taking her to the office with you, under direct supervision or leashed and crated, with potty breaks every hour on the hour, at first. If you’re not home, she should be indoors, crated – if you can arrange for adequate potty breaks – or in an exercise pen.

What games will she be allowed to play? There are games, and then there are games! Good games like “Tug” and “Fetch” reinforce desirable behaviors. Inappropriate games like “Body-Slam the Human” and “Jump Up and Bite Skin and Clothing” reinforce undesirable behaviors. Be sure everyone in the family is on board with teaching appropriate games, and playing by the rules.

If family members insist on an inappropriate game like “Jump Up” (biting is never to be encouraged), get them to agree to teach polite behavior first, then teach “Jump Up” on a very specific cue – and allow it only on cue.

Who will feed her; when, and what? Your pup should be able to depend on regular and high-quality meals from a clean bowl in a quiet place. If you choose to make it a child’s responsibility, you must supervise to be sure the dog is fed properly. Don’t allow anyone to pester her while eating. Rather, have family members walk by and drop extra-special treats in her bowl while she eats, to help prevent resource guarding.

Who will train her, how, and for what? We urge you to train using positive reinforcement methods, starting with housetraining all the way through the most advanced training you choose to pursue. You can have a “primary” trainer, and then encourage the whole family to participate in training activities; they’ll all be living with the pup, and they can all learn to communicate consistently and effectively in a language she understands (see “Get Your Children Involved in Training the Family Dog,” January 2002).

Make a vocabulary list of terms your dog learns and post it on the refrigerator, so everyone uses the same behavior cues. Add to the list as she learns new behaviors. Remember that your dog is never too young (or old) to learn. Check out basic and advanced good manners training, agility, rally obedience, tricks, flyball, scent detection, musical freestyle . . . the possibilities are endless.

How will you correct her for making mistakes? Positive does not mean permissive. If your pup is well supervised she shouldn’t have the opportunity to make many mistakes, but they will happen. When they do, calmly interrupt the pup’s behavior with a cheerful “Oops!” and redirect her to something more appropriate. Make a mental note to ramp up your management or training to prevent the situation from happening again.

Puppies develop lifelong habits during the first several months of their lives. Extra management effort early on can save you years of headaches later. If you don’t give your pup the opportunity to learn that chewing sofa cushions is fun and feels good on sore gums, she’ll earn house freedom much sooner than a confirmed cushion shredder. When you see her heading for cushions or the coffee table leg, offer her a stuffed Kong instead, or engage her in a game of tug.

If she’s driving you crazy, grabbing your pants legs, and biting your hands, say “Oops! Time out!” and put her in her exercise pen for a bit. This will give you both a chance to calm down without resorting to corporal punishment. When she realizes that biting makes the fun stop, she’ll learn to control her urge to grab.

Sound like a lot to think about? It should! Accepting responsibility for the life of another living creature requires serious thought and commitment. The way you care for your pup will determine whether she spends the rest of her life sharing companionship and love with you or, like too many dogs, gets passed from home to home in search of one where she will be better understood and appreciated. She deserves a lifelong loving home. They all do.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

Save Yourself in a Dog Attack

Be alert in places where dogs are running loose and possibly aroused enough to behave aggressively – especially when you have small children with you. Teach your children how to “Be a tree” if approached by a scary dog and “Be a rock” if attacked.

The tragedy of the 12-year-old boy killed by his family’s Pit Bulls in San Francisco once again highlights the importance of providing information that will help people survive such dog attacks – and perhaps the need for laws that encourage and require dog owners to be responsible for their dogs.

Any large, powerful breed of dog will, occasionally, cause serious injury, even death. Small dogs can certainly bite, too, though they normally have less potential to do serious harm (the Pomeranian who killed a six-week-old infant in California in 2000 notwithstanding).

You and your family members would be smart to learn how to stay safe around aggressive dogs, by knowing how to avoid provoking an attack and how to protect yourself should one occur.

Easy to say, difficult to do
When I was a humane/animal control officer in Marin County, California, I once handled a report of an aggressive male Rhodesian Ridgeback who was running at large in an upscale suburban neighborhood. As I walked up the front sidewalk toward the house where the dog was reported to live, a reddish-brown flash came speeding around the corner of the house, headed menacingly and directly at me.

I averted my eyes and held my breath, frozen in place as he charged up and bumped me with his nose, hard.

I have no doubt that if I had moved when he hit me with his nose, he would have bitten me, probably badly. Instead I passively held my ground and he backed off, staring at me intensely. Still without making direct eye contact, I backed slowly to my truck and climbed in, reached behind the seat for my control stick, stepped out, slipped the loop over his head and pulled it tight. Then I breathed.

In her excellent book, The Other End of the Leash, Patricia McConnell makes the important point that, as primates, humans tend to automatically do exactly the wrong things when confronted by a dog. Instinctive, genetically programmed primate behavior causes us to make direct eye contact and confront a threat with full-face aggression – stare at the dog facing him directly, perhaps yell, reach, or move toward him or make other defensive moves, escalating rather than defusing the dog’s aggressive behavior.

Programmed by decades of living and working with dogs, I knew to avoid eye contact and movement, and I froze instead. Lucky for me. Many people either scream in fear (or in an attempt to attract attention and help) or shout to try to scare or bluff the dog into leaving. Unfortunately, this usually further provokes the dog.

You can reduce the risk of being attacked, and reduce the likelihood of serious injury if you are attacked, by doing the right things, pre- and post-confrontation. The next time you feel threatened by a dog, remember these tips:

• Be a tree: If a dog approaches you with assertive/aggressive body language, be a tree. Stand perfectly still but relaxed. A tense, unnatural position looks weird to the dog; weird can trigger an attack. Avoid direct eye contact, but keep the dog in your peripheral vision. Keep your arms at your sides, and don’t speak – and certainly don’t scream, which can further excite a dog who is already aroused. By offering appeasement behaviors and not doing anything assertive or provocative, you increase the odds that the dog will back off and move away without attacking.

• Be a rock: If the dog does attack despite your inoffensive body language, you have two choices. If the dog is small or just nipping at you rather than launching an all-out attack, seek safety – climb up on a fence or tree, the hood of a car, or any object large enough to provide sanctuary. You can unobtrusively scope out the landscape for such objects while you’re being a tree.

If you feel you’re being overpowered by the dog, be a rock. Drop to the ground in the fetal position with your hands behind your neck and legs pulled up to your chest, protecting your throat, face, and vital organs. If there are people nearby who could help you, screaming to get their attention could save your life. On the other hand, screaming may also further provoke the dog. If you feel certain that no one will be able to hear you, don’t yell.

• Find a shield: While you’re being a tree, carefully scan the area for possible shields – a gate you scan slip through, a garbage can lid you can hold between you and the dog. If you think the dog will allow it – like the Ridgeback that came after me – back carefully to your shield, keeping the dog in view, and use it as needed to protect/defend yourself.

• Find a weapon: In no way do I advocate hitting dogs in the name of training. But if you’re attacked and have access to a club or other weapon of some kind, do what you need to do to save yourself. Don’t attempt to use a weapon, however, unless you’re prepared to use it with full commitment. Waving a stick feebly at an attacking dog may only antagonize him further. If you use it, either offer it as a target for the dog to bite, or use it as hard as you can. If you walk in an area with free-roaming dogs, consider carrying a club with you, or a shield such as an umbrella, to help ward off dogs.

• Report incidents: Even if you escape unscathed, report the incident to animal control and the police department; the dog’s next attack may be fatal. If you don’t feel local officials are taking you seriously, talk to their supervisors, and if necessary, your local elected representative and the media. You may save the life of the next person the dog would accost. (For more about reporting dog attacks and how to get local officials to act, see “An Accident Waiting to Happen,” February 2004.)

Complications
The first four tips listed above are much more difficult to implement if you’re walking your own dog(s) on a leash, or are accompanied by a child, senior citizen, or disabled person. You may need to use your own body as a shield by calmly moving into position between your dependent dog or person and the attacking dog.

You may be able to lift a child or your dog onto a raised surface for safety, and then climb up yourself. You can still use the fetal position, either while coaching the other person to do the same, or by folding a small child or small-to-medium-sized dog between your chest and knees, or wrapping them in a jacket if you happen to have one with you.

You might practice these maneuvers in advance with lots of positive reinforcement so no one panics if it happens in a real-life encounter. Carrying a weapon of some kind is still an option.

I’m sorry to say that there are no guarantees that the above suggestions will save you from being bitten, or even mauled, but it’s a good bet that if you do the wrong things when a dog accosts you, or do nothing at all if you’re attacked, the damage will be greater. It’s sort of like the terrorist threat: you don’t want the risk of being attacked to alter your regular activities or enjoyment of life, but it pays to be on heightened alert, and to be prepared to defend and retaliate in case of attack.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Avoiding Potential Dog Attacks”
Click here to view “How to Safely Break Up A Dog Fight”