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Understanding Aggression in Dogs

[Updated October 18, 2018]

Aggression. It’s a natural, normal dog behavior, but it’s also a scary word that evokes images of maulings and dog-related fatalities. The term “aggression” actually encompasses a long continuum of behaviors, some of them very appropriate and critically important to successful canine communication. If your dog has ever displayed the slightest sign of aggressive behavior, it is incumbent on you as a responsible owner to learn as much as possible about the causes of – and of course, solutions for – canine aggression.

Canine Aggression

Photo by Penelope Brown

The Scope of Aggressive Dog Behaviors

The broad spectrum of “aggressive behaviors” is technically called “agonistic behavior” and is defined in ethology as, “pertaining to the range of activities associated with aggressive encounters between members of the same species or social group, including threat, attack, appeasement, or retreat.” So, while a growl-lunge-bite sequence would be easily recognized by most people as aggression, more subtle agonistic behaviors such as a freeze, a hard stare, or even a lack of eye contact, may go unnoticed (and unaddressed).

Aggression is probably the most common behavioral problem in dogs seen by behavior professionals and the most dangerous one seen in companion dogs. While the number of dog-related fatalities (about 30 per year in the U.S.) pales in comparison to accidental death by other means, the number of annual reported bites is staggering. According to the Dog Bite Law website: “The most recent official survey, conducted more than a decade ago, determined there were 4.7 million dog bite victims annually in the U.S. A more recent study showed that 1,000 Americans per day are treated in emergency rooms as a result of dog bites. Dog bite losses exceed $1 billion per year, with over $300 million paid by homeowners insurance.”

Cultural Shifts and Dog Aggression

In my opinion, our culture has become oversensitized to dog bites. Once upon a time, if a kid was bitten by a neighbor’s dog, his mom generally asked the kid what he was doing to the dog that he shouldn’t have been. Today she reaches for the phone to call her attorney, or, if it’s her dog, dialing up a behavior professional, or worse, dropping the dog off at her local shelter. We’ve turned into a nation of aggress-a-phobes.

Behavior professionals mull over the causes of what looks to be a huge and growing problem. Theories about the contributing factors abound:

  • The population shift away from rural living and toward urban and suburban homes may have lessened our general understanding of animal behavior.
  • This lack of understanding manifests as inappropriate human behavior toward dogs, which triggers more aggressive behavior, as well as a lower tolerance for bites – even minor ones.
  • A more responsible dog-owning population keeps dogs at home, rather than letting them wander, and as a result dogs may be less socialized – and more likely to bite (see “Light Bite,” WDJ June 2010).
  • There has been an increase in popularity of dog breeds that contribute to our cultural sensitization – large, powerful breeds who can do serious damage if they bite, such as Pit Bulls and Rottweilers – as well as breeds who are sensitive to violations of their personal space and have a lower tolerance for inappropriate human behavior, such as Border Collies and Australian Shepherds.
  • Finally, the appropriately diligent efforts of animal control authorities to quarantine dogs who bite (for rabies control purposes) and craft dangerous dog laws (for public safety purposes) have probably fueled the alarmist reactions to even minor dog bites.

I’m not saying aggression isn’t a serious behavior. But there’s aggression, and then there’s serious aggression. In a perfect world, all humans would recognize and take appropriate action at the lower levels of agonistic behavior. If that happened, we would rarely see serious aggression – in fact we’d rarely see any bites at all. Until that time, we can only work, one dog and one human at a time, to expand human understanding of canine aggression.

Stress in Dogs

Across the board, with one tiny exception so rare it’s barely worth mentioning, aggression is caused by stress. Whatever “classification” of aggression an owner or behavior professional chooses to use, the underlying cause of the aggression is stress. There is usually a triggering stressor; when a dog bites a child, it’s a good bet that child was a stressor for him – but there is also a background noise of other stressors that pushed the dog over his bite threshold with that child on that particular day. These may be stressors that we don’t even notice. And because cortisol, a stress hormone that plays a role in aggression, can stay in the system for at least two days, they can be stressors that occurred yesterday, or even the day before!

Think of it as canine road rage. In humans, road rage might look like this:

  • Stressor #1: Our subject jumps out of bed in the morning realizing that his alarm didn’t go off and he’s late for work.
  • Stressor #2: He dashes through a cold shower because his hot water heater is on the blink.
  • Stressor #3: As he hurries out the door his eye falls on the foreclosure notice that arrived in yesterday’s mail because his mortgage payment is overdue.
  • Stressor #4: He jumps in his car, starts the engine and sees that his gas gauge is on “E.” He’s already late and now he has to stop to get gas.
  • Stressor #5: As he pulls onto the freeway his cell phone dings to remind him of an important meeting in 15 minutes – and his commute is 25 minutes.
  • Stressor #6: He remembers that his boss warned him that if he’s late for one more important meeting he’ll be fired. If he speeds, maybe he can make it.
  • Stressor #7: Traffic is a little slow, but if he uses the commute lane, maybe he can make it. Just as he starts to pull into the lane a car cuts him off and then pokes along in front of him below the speed limit. It’s the last straw. Over threshold, he reaches under his seat pulls out his loaded .357 and . . .

In dog, canine road rage might look like this:

  • Stressor #1: The dog has a little isolation distress, usually mitigated by the presence of his canine sibling, but today his brother got dropped off at the vet hospital when his humans went off to work, so he’s all alone.
  • Stressor #2: A UPS delivery arrives, and dog has a “thing” about delivery people.
  • Stressor #3: Just before noon a thunderstorm passes through. The dog is thunder-sensitive, and owner didn’t give him his thunder medication this morning.
  • Stressor #4: Pet walker is supposed to arrive at 1 pm, but is late and doesn’t get there until 2:30. Dog is stressed by change in routine and by urgency of a very full bladder by the time the walker arrives.
  • Stressor #5: Humans arrive home at their normal time but they are stressed because there are dinner guests due at 7 pm and they have to get ready. Dog is stressed by his humans’ stress, and the fact that they rush though his evening routine, feeding him hurriedly and skipping his walk to the dog park for exercise.
  • Stressor #6: Visitors arrive, and while the dog is fine with adult visitors, he is not especially fond of children, and there are four in this family. All through dinner, the dog hears the high-pitched children’s voices laughing and arguing, and he occasionally sees them staring at him.
  • Stressor #7: After dinner the kids are running around the house. The dog tries to stay out of their way, but eventually one corners him in the kitchen. Over threshold, he pulls out his loaded mouth and . . .

Stress is an emotional and physiological response to a stimulus. The foundational underpinning of aggression is based on classical conditioning; your dog’s emotional and physical response to a stimulus that causes him stress: fear, pain, anger, and/or some other strong emotion. He can’t help his emotional response any more than you can when faced with something that scares or hurts you.

Aggression also has an operant component; your dog learns that he can deliberately act to make scary stressors go away. When he growls, barks, and lunges, perceived bad things tend to leave – so his aggressive behavior is negatively reinforced (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing go away), and increases over time.

Aggressive Dog Behavior

Dog Aggression is NOT Dominance

There’s a widespread misconception held by many dog owners, perpetuated by unfortunate television drama, that aggression is all about dominance, and that the appropriate response to any display of aggression is to force the dog into submission. This couldn’t be further from the truth. In fact, a very mild, easily resolvable display of aggressive behavior can quickly become a significant behavior problem if the dog’s human responds with aggression.

The concept of dominance in a social group has been so widely misunderstood and distorted that many knowledgeable behavior professionals hesitate to even use the term. In fact, dominance has little to do with aggression, and a lot to do with access to desired resources: the concept of dominance strictly refers to an interaction or a series of interactions between two individuals in which there is an outcome in favor of one member of the pair.

That outcome is largely determined by a submissive or yielding response from one of the individuals and not through overt conflict or escalated aggression. Someone who is truly higher ranking in social status doesn’t need to resort to aggression to get what he wants. Violent behavior between group members is inappropriate and unacceptable in social interactions. These precepts hold true for social groups of all species, including humans.

Using violent behavior against a dog who is aggressive adds additional stress to his stress load. With force, you may be able to suppress his aggressive behavior in that moment. However, your actions will increase the probability of his future aggression – and possibly more intense aggression. There are far more appropriate and effective ways to manage and modify aggressive behavior than aggressing back.

Aggression-Modifying Action Plan

So what do you do when your dog exhibits aggressive behavior? Remember that stress, not any desire to take over the world, causes aggression to erupt. The first thing to do is educate yourself about dog body language so you can be aware of your dog’s more subtle agonistic behaviors. (See “Signs Your Dog Has Stress,” June 2006.) Then be aware of your dog’s stressors and stress levels, and avoid putting him in situations where he may be compelled to bite. When you do see stress signals, even subtle ones, remove him from the immediate proximity of the stressor to help him cope with the situation.

When you’ve identified something that appears to be a stressor for him, figure out how to remove it as a stressor in his life. If it’s something you can get rid of, simply get rid of it. If you can manage it, by removing the dog from the environment when you know the stressor will be present, do it. If it’s too present in his world to get rid of or manage, take steps to change his opinion of that stressor through counter-conditioning, or change his behavior in the presence of that stressor through operant conditioning.

Canine Aggression

There are bound to be some low-level stressors that he’ll just have to live with. As long as they aren’t significant enough to put him near or over his bite threshold, he can live with some stressors. We all have some stress in our lives!

Here are some examples:

  • Get rid of it: Anything aversive that causes unnecessary pain or stress, including shock, choke, and prong collars; penny cans; or throw chains. Even head halters, considered by many to be positive training tools, are aversive to some dogs.
  • Manage it: So, your dog isn’t fond of small children and there are none in your life and he doesn’t encounter them regularly in your neighborhood. Even so, you can manage him the one time each year your sister comes to visit with your young niece and nephew, by keeping him in another part of the house when the kids are awake and about.
  • Change his association: Convince him that something that stresses him is actually very wonderful by pairing it consistently with something else wonderful. If your dog is stressed by men with beards, you can convince him that men with beards always make chicken happen, by having a bearded man appear, and feeding bits of chicken to your dog, over and over and over again, until he wants furry-faced men to appear so he can have more chicken.

The key to successful counter-conditioning, as this process is called, is to always keep the dog below threshold; you want him a little aware of and worried about the aversive stimulus, but not quaking in fear or barking and lunging.

  • Teach him a new behavior: Perhaps your dog becomes highly aroused by visitors coming to the door. He’s not fearful or aggressive, but the high arousal is a stressor. You can teach him that the doorbell is his cue to run get in his crate, where he’ll receive a stuffed Kong or other doggie delectable. (See “Unwanted Barking at the Front Door,” February 2010.) Or you can teach him that visitors toss toys for him to chase if he sits politely when the door opens.
  • Live with it: So you’re a little (or a lot!) stressed because your work isn’t going well, or the school just notified you that your teen-age daughter has been skipping school. While I encourage you for your own well-being to take steps to reduce your own stress as much as possible, this is one your dog can live with, especially if you remember that when you are stressed, it pushes your dog a little closer to his own bite threshold.

When Your Dog Does Bite

What if you misjudge a situation and something happens that puts your dog over threshold and causes him to display seriously aggressive behavior, perhaps even bite? First, don’t panic. All dogs can bite, and the fact that yours has doesn’t make him a Cujo. You will need to:

  • Move him away from the scene. Stash him in another room, stick him in your car for a moment, or hand his leash to someone he knows who is not at risk for being bitten and have them take him away.
  • Apologize. A good apology is, “Oh, I am so sorry you were bitten! (or your dog was bitten, or your child was bitten).
  • Examine the bite site. Take a couple of quick photos if you can. If the bite broke skin, offer first aid (if you have it). If the injuries are serious, make sure that the victim has a way to access medical care.
  • If it’s clear that your dog was the sole offender, you may want to offer to pay for medical or veterinary care. A pre-emptive discussion with your attorney about this possibility is a good idea, to prevent yourself from taking on more liability than is appropriate, while still doing the ethical and reasonable thing. If it’s unclear who “started it,” be wary of immediately accepting responsibility for the incident.
  • Prepare for a visit from animal control. In most of the country, if a dog bite breaks human skin, the dog must be quarantined for at least 10 days. Have your current rabies certificate handy – they will ask to see it; a rabies tag isn’t enough.

In many jurisdictions you may be able to quarantine your dog in your own home. If not, find out if your dog can be kept at a vet hospital for the required period; it’s usually a safer, less stressful place than a shelter.

If animal control insists on taking your dog away for quarantine, do not sign anything until you have read it carefully and are sure you understand it. Some dog owners have unknowingly and tragically signed their dogs over for euthanasia when they thought they were just agreeing to quarantine.

  • Prepare for “dangerous dog” legal proceedings. Depending on the laws in your area, your dog may be declared “potentially dangerous” for acting aggressively, or “dangerous” for actually biting someone. It’s good to read your local ordinance now, even if your dog never bites anyone, and for sure after a bite happens. If your dog is designated dangerous or you do get called to a hearing of some kind in relation to your dog’s aggressive behavior, you’d be wise to involve your attorney.

Bite Prevention

Basic training and early socialization can go a long way toward inoculating your dog against future aggression. Your observational skills and ability to mitigate stressful situations for your dog are excellent booster shots. At the point, however, when you become aware that your dog’s behaviors are inappropriate, traveling along that continuum of agonistic behavior verging on overt aggression, and are resistant to your efforts to manage and modify them, it’s time to call for help.

Remember that a good behavior professional won’t come riding in like a white knight, push your dog around a little, and declare him cured. A good behavior modification protocol is not dramatic, but rather a slow, low-key program that will help your dog learn to better cope with his world.

Your behavior professional won’t need to see the actual aggressive behavior; she will trust your description of your dog’s reaction to the stressors in his world, and help you figure out how to keep him far below his bite threshold. Like most behaviors, aggression is far easier to modify sooner, before your dog has had time to practice and get good at it.

Counter-Conditioning for Aggressive Dogs

This technique involves changing your dog’s association with a scary or arousing stimulus from negative to positive. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association is with extremely high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken – canned, baked, or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it’s a low-fat food. Here’s how the process works:

1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of the stimulus and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the “threshold distance.”
2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present the stimulus at threshold distance X. The instant your dog sees the stimulus, start feeding him bits of chicken, non-stop. (Note: If your dog is too excited to eat the chicken, then you have the stimulus too close. Back it way up until your dog is calm enough to take the chicken, but still notices the stimulus.)
3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the stimulus from your dog’s sight, and stop feeding the chicken to your dog.
4. Keep repeating those first steps until the presentation of the stimulus at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a “conditioned emotional response” (CER). Now your dog’s association with the stimulus at threshold distance X is positive instead of negative.
5. Next you will increase the intensity of the stimulus. You can do that by decreasing the distance between your dog and the stimulus; by increasing the movement of the stimulus at distance X (if the stimulus is a child, for example, ask the child to skip or swing her arms); by increasing the number of stimuli (two or three children, instead of one); increasing the visual “threat” (a tall stranger instead of a short one, or a man with a beard instead of a clean-shaven man); or by increasing the volume (if it’s a stimulus that makes noise, such as a vacuum cleaner).

I’d suggest decreasing distance first in small increments by moving the dog closer to the location where the stimulus will appear, with your dog achieving the intended CER at each new distance, until your dog is happy to be very near to the non-moving stimulus, perhaps even sniffing or targeting to it.

6. Then return to distance X and add intensity of your stimulus (move the vacuum a little; have two children instead of one; have the man put on a hat, or a backpack), gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the moderately intense stimulus in close proximity.
7. Now, back to distance X. Increase intensity again, by having your helper turn the vacuum on briefly (while you feed treats the instant it’s on). Then turn it off and stop the treats. (Or turn up the volume, or add more children, etc.)
8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually increase the length of time you have your dog in the presence of the increased-intensity stimulus, until he’s happy (but not aroused) to have it present continuously.
9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to the stimulus, consistently obtaining the desired CER from the dog at each new distance.
10. When your dog is happy to have the higher-intensity stimulus close to him, he’s ready for the final phase.
11. Return to distance X and obtain your dog’s CER there, with a full intensity stimulus – a running, moving vacuum; multiple children laughing and playing; a tall man with a beard wearing a hat, sunglasses, and a backpack. Gradually decrease the distance until your dog is happy to be near the full-intensity stimulus. He now thinks the stimulus is a very good thing, a reliable predictor of very yummy treats. In the case of a human stimulus, you can gradually work up to actual interaction with the human(s) at this stage, by having the person(s) drop treats as they walk by, then letting your dog take treats from their fingers – without direct eye contact, and eventually working up to normal interaction.

The more complex the stimulus and more intense the fear or arousal response, the more challenging it is to modify the behavior. Anxieties and phobias generally require a great commitment to a long and in-depth modification program.

Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ‘s Training Editor. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of several books on positive training, including her latest: Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life

Getting the Most Out of Puppy Kindergarten

[Updated November 16, 2017]

PUPPY TRAINING CLASS: OVERVIEW

1. Bring your “A” game to puppy class. Get a good night’s sleep before a morning class, get up early for coffee — whatever it takes!

2. Try not to get caught up in conversation with other puppy owners during class. You need to pay attention to the instructor — and your own puppy!

3. Practice daily at home, so you and your puppy have mastered each week’s material and are ready to learn new skills when you come to class.

You’ve got a new puppy and are about to start puppy classes (or are planning ahead for your new pup – even better!). You know good puppy classes are an integral part of helping you and your dog invest in a long and harmonious future. Congratulations!

Puppy Kindergarten

Once you’ve selected a class that meets your needs (see “How to find the Best Dog Trainer for Your Dog,” for help selecting the right class for you and your dog) and you’ve signed up to ensure your place in class – you are all set, right? Wrong!

Puppy classes aren’t magic. Just signing up, paying, and attending aren’t enough. You have to train and practice and build your relationship with your puppy. It will last a lifetime and the effort you put in now will pay off multifold. But keep in mind that the bad habits that you and your puppy develop now will also give you payback many times over! So let’s assume you have really committed yourself to rearing a puppy well, and talk about how to get the most out of your puppy classes.

Paying Attention in Puppy Class

In today’s economy, most of us want to be sure we get the most bang for our bucks and that’s true for the cost of puppy classes. Carefully select your class in advance. Of course, we want you to find an experienced positive trainer. But you also need to find a class in a location that’s convenient enough and offered at a time of day to ensure that you’ll actually attend. If the class that you want is offered only at 7 pm on a weeknight or 8 am on Saturday morning, and you are usually tired at these times, you may have to look for another option – or plan to have an espresso early enough before class to get you there and keep you alert.

Alertness is critical in any educational setting. If you are too tired to be attentive to what the instructor is saying, or to cheerfully interact with your dog (who, thanks to the many distractions in class, may be at his worst), you won’t get as much out of the class as you could.

Does this sound easy? It’s not! It’s difficult to pay attention to two things at once (your puppy and the instructor) while surrounded by other cute and active puppies and their owners. And if you happen to be seated next to an especially gabby owner, or excitable puppy, it can be even more difficult. If you are talking to someone, you can’t properly hear the instructor or attend to your puppy. If you are watching your puppy play with another pup, you can’t pay attention to the instructor. You paid for the information being provided. Don’t waste these critical puppy-rearing moments (or your money) by failing to focus.

I don’t need to mention that mobile phones should never be present in class, do I?

At the same time that you are listening to the instructor and watching her demonstrations, it’s essential that you are also aware of what your pup is doing. These are golden opportunities for you to reinforce behaviors you like, such as looking calmly at the other pups and people in class, and especially, for “checking in” with you with eye contact. You may also have to distract your puppy and prevent her from practicing behaviors you don’t want, such as barking, whining, pulling on the leash to go visiting, chewing the leash, chewing on the mat, pawing at you, mugging you for treats, or mouthing you.

Treats are Your Greatest Tool for Cooperation

Speaking of treats, it’s vitally important that you bring an ample and varied supply to class. You don’t want to run out before the end of class, or to have to scrimp on reinforcement because you are afraid you are going to run out. It’s best if you have at least three or four types of treats in your bait bag; this keeps your puppy guessing what delicious treat might be next, and keeps him from getting tired of (and undermotivated by) any one type of treat.

Puppy Class

Ideally, you should include treats of a varying level of interest to your puppy, too: treats he likes, treats he’s crazy about, and some treats he’d stand on his head for! Use the highest-value treats for rewarding the most difficult behaviors you ask your pup to perform, new behaviors, or for “easy” behaviors performed against a backdrop of distractions. You may have to try a lot of different types of treats at home in order to identify treats of these varying levels of “value” to your dog.

The treats you bring to class should also be tiny! – especially if you have a small dog. That’s because you’ll be feeding a lot of them in class, and you don’t want him to fill up too soon, so pre-cut those treats into pieces the size of a pea or smaller. It also helps to bring your pup in on an empty or near-empty stomach so if class is scheduled around your pup’s meal time, feed only half the usual meal and bring the balance as healthy, delectable treats for class. Consider using cut-up pieces of boiled lean chicken, turkey, beef, or pork.

You need to deliver those treats to your puppy quickly so you want the treats easily accessible to you. I suggest using a “bait bag” or treat pouch to keep the treats handy; there are lots of great ones on the market. Other good treat holders are fanny packs, carpenter aprons, and loose vest pockets. Ziploc bags are horrid! Just about as hard to use as jeans pockets.

Being a Good Puppy Class Student

In class, during practice times, PRACTICE! When the instructor comes around to see how you and your puppy are doing, make sure you take the opportunity to demonstrate the behavior you are supposed to be practicing at that moment. Generally, the instructor circulates to every dog/handler team and watches for a repetition or two, gives some feedback, and moves on. If you haven’t been able to get your pup to perform the behavior yet, don’t just say that; show the instructor how you’ve been going about it so she can see what’s wrong and show you a different way to do it. Everyone should get pretty equal time by the end of each class and no one should monopolize the instructor. So play fair!

Usually there are question periods during each class. Help use the class time well by preparing a priority question or two in advance. What are you most stuck on or confused about? Ask the question as concisely as possible. This is not the time for a long story about your pup’s adorable antics at home. Your classmates have also paid for class and it’s their time, too. Use it constructively. If your issue is something unique to your household or situation, ask if you can speak to the trainer about it before or after class or perhaps email or telephone for a brief discussion. Classes are for general topics and issues.

Training The Family Dog

It’s helpful when your entire family participates in training the family dog, and when all of you use the same cues to elicit the various behaviors you learn in class. It follows, then, that it’s also helpful for the most interested family members to attend training class. That can include kids, but make sure you bring only those kids whose attention spans are long enough and behavior is good enough, so that they don’t disrupt the class. Or bring a second adult or responsible teen who can take the kids out of class as needed for breaks.

Practice What You Learn

I can’t stress this enough: Practice, practice, practice every single day!

Practice is rather like preparing the ground before transplanting a plant. It would be a shame to put a lovely purchased plant into soil that hasn’t been prepared in advance; it won’t be as successful as the plant that gets thoughtful fertilizing, watering, and of course is a good match for the soil and sun in the first place.

Between classes, it’s all up to you. Practice teaching your dog the behaviors you’ve learned in class many times a day – every day – in short, positive sessions. Puppies have short attention spans, so practice for a total of at least 15 to 45 minutes a day, in at least three sessions sprinkled throughout the day. Short and more-frequent sessions are better than fewer, longer ones; three 5- to 10-minute sessions provide better training than a single 15- to 30-minute session.

“Capture” and reward behaviors whenever you can. Is your puppy running to greet you? Super! Label it “Rover, come!” and reward her lavishly when she gets to you. Walking down the hallway with the puppy at your side? Label it “heel” (or whatever you’ll call nice, loose leash walking) and reward it! Keep working on your puppy’s name recognition, too, by brightly saying her name and rewarding her interest and attention with a delicious treat, a few moments of the kind of petting she likes best (belly rubs, neck massage, a nice scratching session at the top of her tail), and/or warm praise.

Use your everyday routines to remind you to practice with your puppy. Going to the end of the driveway to get the mail from the box? Bring your puppy on her leash.

That means an opportunity to sit nicely for attaching her leash and for opening the door. It also gives you the opportunity to reward her for reorienting (eye contact to you) after you’ve both stepped through the doorway. Then she gets to practice nice walking with you all the way to the mail box and back (with some cued sits, downs, eye contact, etc. along the way). When you get back to your door, you have another chance to have your puppy sit to await the cue to go through the door. And then she can offer a polite sit on the other side of the door before you let her free in the house again.

Wasn’t that a lovely little training session? Look at all the things it included as well as some nice exposure to a brief trip outdoors where the pup may have seen pedestrians, vehicles, birds, squirrels, airplanes overhead, etc. to give you a chance to reward her for calmly noticing things and turning her attention back to you. Playing with your dog in your fenced yard? Ask for some sits, downs, come, and some eye contact! Your dog’s reward might be a chance to chase a ball or chase you!

Most puppy training classes give the participants written homework to help them focus and remember. Use it. Don’t pull it out the night before class (or the hour before) and try to “cram” – that’s not how you’ll get the habits installed in your puppy. Practice every day in multiple short sessions.

If your puppy class doesn’t include everything you wished it did (and what class ever does?), read up on those other things and work on them yourself.

The class should teach you the principles of positive training with your puppy. Start applying them to behaviors beyond those taught in class! Puppies are like little sponges and learn so easily once we learn how to be clear with them and make it all fun.

Use your class time well and use your home time even more wisely. It’s an investment in your future with your dog. Unlike many of today’s investments, this is one almost guaranteed to bring rich returns for life.

The Value of Training in Everyday Life

Training starts the moment you bring your pup into your car to head home with you. How will your pup travel? Has the puppy ever been in a car before? How will you make this first car trip as safe and comfortable as possible?

Then there are all the rules the puppy has to learn about living with a human family in a human’s house: when and where it’s okay to potty, what furniture is off-limits, what a puppy is allowed to chew on and what she is forbidden to investigate with her mouth, how much and what times of day vocalizing is acceptable — it’s endless.

My point is this: Puppies are always learning. We consciously teach them what to do and what not to do only some of the time. In order to be as successful as possible in teaching your little pup to grow tip into a good canine citizen, you’ll need to make the most of every opportunity for your puppy to do the things you want him to do — and give him few or no opportunities to practice naughty behaviors. This means training whenever you can, and managing his environment carefully when you can’t be there to train.

Caryl-Rose Pofcher is a dog trainer based in Amherst, MA. As well as running her own dog training business, My Dog, LLC, she also trains for her local shelter, Dakin Pioneer Valley Humane Society, and for the Collared Scholar dog training center. See “Resources,” for contact information.

Has Your Senior Dog Started to Lose His Hearing?

If we’re fortunate enough to have them live to old age, at some point, most of our canine companions begin to lose their hearing and may eventually be, for all intents and purposes, deaf. It’s painful to watch a beloved dog become less and less responsive to his environment because he’s unaware of what’s going on around him, and even more so when it limits your ability to communicate with him. The thought of a hearing-impaired dog wandering off and not being able to hear your calls is frightening. Here are five things you can do if your dog’s hearing isn’t what it used to be:

Senior Dogs and Hearing

1) Purchase a disaster whistle and condition it as a recall cue, by pairing its sound with high-value treats. The Storm Whistle, reported to be twice as loud as any other mouth-blown whistle in the world, is available in stores, catalogues, and from stormwhistles.com (314-436-3332). We used a Storm Whistle as our recall signal when our aging Kelpie, Katie, lost her hearing; it worked like a dream. Instead of having to walk the fenced backyard looking for her, we could just blow the whistle, and she’d come trundling out from behind the garage. Blow the whistle, and give your dog a high-value treat until your dog gets the whistle-equals-food association. Then you should be good to go.
By the way, you might want to first try the whistle outside, and cover your ears or use earplugs. It’s really loud.

2) Use hand signals. Every time our dogs reach the old-age-can’t-hear stage I appreciate having taught them basic hand signals as well as verbal cues. Since dogs communicate primarily through body language, hand signals are easy to teach, especially if you do it when your dog can still hear well. (See “What’s Your Sign?” in the February 2009 issue of WDJ.) As your dog ages, it’s a great opportunity to expand your visual cue vocabulary. Some owners use American Sign Language (ASL) to communicate with their hearing-impaired dogs.

3) Run interference at home. This is all about management. If you have a multi-dog household, one or more of your other dogs make take offense when your geriatric pal doesn’t respond quickly enough to their signals – because he doesn’t hear them, and therefore doesn’t look and notice their body language. Manage your household to prevent encounters that cause tension due to his lack of hearing and subsequent lack of response. This often includes keeping potential problem dogs separated when you are not home. (See “Peace in the Pack,” July 2002.)

4) Run interference in the real world. There are many situations outside your home where your increasingly hearing-impaired dog may run into trouble. If you’ve been casual about letting her be off-leash near traffic, tighten up the reins. She may no longer be able to hear oncoming cars, and a misstep could be deadly. Same thing if you hike on bike paths and sidewalks; you may not be aware of the extent to which she has relied on her hearing to move out of the way of approaching bikes, skateboards, and joggers. She may also need help around other non-family dogs, since she can’t hear them coming either. You could try scheduling supervised play dates with a small circle of appropriate canine friends instead of trips to the dog park, where you have little to no control over her dog encounters.

5) Make reasonable accommodations and give her the benefit of the doubt. Keep in mind that she’s not ignoring you; she can’t hear you! It’s easy to get cross when your dog doesn’t respond to your cues. Condition her to an unexpected touch from behind (touch makes chicken happen!) so you can let her know you’re there and need her to move – or go around her. And if you feel yourself becoming annoyed with your dog, take a deep breath and remember that she probably didn’t hear you. Heck, if it’s age-related hearing loss she could be losing her vision too, so she may not even see as well as you think. Don’t be annoyed if she doesn’t move out of your path as quickly as she once did, or she fails to come flying to your call. She’s doing the best she can; be patient with her.

Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of several books on positive training. See page 24 for more information.

Bone Marrow Transplants Offer a Promising Treatment for Canine Lymphoma

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Exciting news regarding bone marrow transplants for dogs with lymphoma has recently emerged. North Carolina State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine in Raleigh is the first university in the world to open a canine clinical bone marrow transplant (BMT) unit. Dr. Steven Suter, assistant professor of veterinary oncology at NCSU, is about to perform his

Bone Marrow Transplants

Photo by David Hunt

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30th transplant, all done over the past two years.

Lymphoma, also called lymphosarcoma, is one of the most common cancers to occur in dogs. While it used to be considered a disease of middle-aged and older dogs, those demographics have changed in the past 5 to 10 years, with more and more young dogs being diagnosed. Golden Retrievers have a particularly high risk for this type of cancer.

Lymphoma affects the lymph system, which is spread throughout the body, so surgery cannot be used to eradicate this form of cancer. Without treatment, most dogs die within two months of diagnosis. While chemotherapy can extend the life of dogs with lymphoma for up to two years, fewer than 2 percent of dogs are cured.

“The success rate for bone marrow transplants in people with lymphoma is 50 to 66 percent, and the hope is that dogs will respond similarly,” says Dr. Suter. Of the dogs who have received transplants at NC State in the past two years, 70 percent are still alive, but it’s still early days for many. Full results will not be known for a couple of years, but it is expected that even those dogs who are not completely cured will likely remain in remission for much longer than would have been the case without the transplant.

What the process entails
This is not actually a new technology, as bone marrow transplant protocols for people were originally developed in the 1970s from research done on dogs. The same leukophoresis machines used to harvest healthy stem cells from people can be used without modification for dogs.

“The dogs need to be in either complete remission or very close to complete remission to undergo the BMT procedure,” says Dr. Suter. “So, they all have to receive chemotherapy to get them to that point. Once in remission, they can have a BMT at any time afterward.”

The transplant procedure requires several days of preparation, starting with twice-daily injections of a drug called Neupogen, designed to drive healthy stem cells from the bone marrow into the bloodstream where they can be harvested. An ultra-low-fat diet is fed during this time, as lipids in the blood make stem cell extraction more difficult.

A week later, the dog is placed on a leukaphoresis machine that harvests stem cells from the blood. This process takes about six hours. The following day, the dog receives full body radiation to kill the cancer cells in his bone marrow. Immediately afterward, the stem cells that were harvested the day before are infused back into the bloodstream. The entire process is done under sedation or anesthesia and is painless for the dog.

Following the procedure, the dog is kept at the facility in an isolation ward for about two weeks to give the immune system time to recover as the stem cells start to regenerate. Vomiting and diarrhea due to the radiation are common during this time; drugs are given to combat these side effects. Antibiotics are given before and after the procedure to reduce the chances of bacteria entering the bloodstream and to help fight any infection while the immune system is suppressed. Blood transfusions may be needed due to internal bleeding from loss of platelets that are created by the bone marrow.

For most dogs, no special care is needed after they return home. Hair loss and tiredness are the primary side effects at this time. Dogs will experience bouts of fatigue but should return to normal within four to six weeks.

Promising, not guaranteed
Not all dogs who receive a bone marrow transplant will be cured. While there is no way to know when a dog is completely cancer-free, most relapses so far have occurred in the first four months following the transplant. Dogs who make it beyond this point are more likely to be cured or remain cancer-free for two years or more.

The cost of a bone marrow transplant at NCSU runs from $13,000 to $17,000, averaging about $14,500. This includes everything except intensive ICU care, blood transfusions, and additional diagnostics that may be needed in some cases. There are additional monitoring costs after your dog returns home. Pet insurance may cover some of the cost of bone marrow transplants depending on the company and plan.

Stem cell extraction from bone marrow is more difficult with small dogs. “The smallest dog we’ve transplanted thus far was a 12.5-kg French bulldog (27.5 pounds),” says Dr. Suter. “We are getting ready to transplant an 11-kg (24 pounds) Shih Tzu in a few weeks. Probably about the lowest we can go is around 8 kg (or about 18-20 lbs).”

Dogs with serious health problems such as kidney or heart disease, or conditions that make infections more likely, such as diabetes or Cushing’s disease, do not qualify for the transplant procedure, as the risk would be too great.

Five private facilities in the U.S. are gearing up to offer bone marrow transplants for dogs. Eight transplants have been done by Edmund Sullivan, DVM, in Bellingham, Washington, beginning in 2004, but most of these clinics are just beginning to do or have not yet done their first procedures. There is some concern that it is too soon to be marketing bone marrow transplants so widely, before enough is known about the success rate and how to treat and prevent potential side effects. The five facilities are:

  • Bellingham Veterinary in Bellingham, Washington
  • Gulf Coast Veterinary Specialists in Houston, Texas
  • VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital in Los Angeles, California
  • Veterinary Specialty Hospital in San Diego, California
  • Veterinary Specialty Center of the Hudson Valley in Wappingers Falls, New York

– Mary Straus

It’s Not Your Imagination: Dogs Do Mimic Their Owners

Behavioral scientists have long questioned whether dogs are capable of mimicking each other or people. A recent study published in the Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences has shown that dogs are not only capable of mimicking their owners, they do so automatically. In fact, their drive to copy our head and hand (paw) movements is so strong that they tend to do so even when it is not in their best interests.

Dogs Mimic Their Owners

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Friederike Range and her colleagues at the University of Vienna Department of Cognitive Biology tested 10 adult dogs of various breeds and their owners. They began by training the dogs to open a sliding door both by using their heads and by using their paws. The dogs then watched their owners perform the same task, opening the door either by hand, or by getting down on the floor and using their heads.

Half of the dogs were then rewarded when they copied their owners; the other half received a reward when they did the opposite. All of the dogs tended to copy their owners, even when it meant they were not rewarded.

Later, when the dogs who had to learn to do the opposite of what their owners did then were asked to copy their owners, they made more mistakes than the first group, suggesting that imitative behavior is the result of developmental interactions rather than simply evolution. In other words, copying people is a learned behavior, not an instinctual one.

While both human and non-human primates, as well as certain species of birds, are known to automatically imitate each other, the phenomenon of copying another species is thought to be rare or even unique. This is undoubtedly due to the special relationship that dogs have evolved with humans.

Knowing that dogs imitate us could facilitate certain types of training. There are several delightful videos making the rounds that show groups of dogs performing tasks such as putting up Christmas decorations and enjoying a picnic at the beach. These dogs were trained in Hungary by clicker trainers who use what they call the “Mirror Method” of training. For example, when they want their dogs to sit, the trainers will crouch down themselves.

– Mary Straus

Carbohydrates and Your Dog’s Digestive System

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Carbohydrates provide a critical part of a dog's diet.

Grain-free dry dog food has become wildly popular in the past few years. More and more companies are rolling out a grain-free kibble, as demand for this type of food keeps growing. Why are they so popular?

We’ve found that many dog owners who feed grain-free foods don’t know why they are spending a small fortune on these foods. Or, we should say, they often have their reason, but only rarely are the reasons valid!

As the most common example, some people say they’ve switched to grain-free foods “because dogs don’t need carbs.” Well, they are partly right; dogs don’t require carbohydrates in their diet. But grain-free dry dog foods do contain carbs! In fact, many grain-free foods contain a fair amount of carbohydrates in the form of potatoes, sweet potatoes, tapioca, or peas.

Grain-free foods perform really well when fed to some dogs, but may be inappropriate for others, for example, when a high-fat or high-protein diet is contraindicated. Dogster.com explains the different kinds of grains in relation to dogs’ diets here.

Our philosophy is this: owners should feed their dogs the diets that work best for their individual animals, and develop an accurate understanding of why those diets work well. In an effort to support that suggestion, let’s look at grain, carbs, and how these can be used (or not!) to best meet the nutritional needs of your dog.

What are Carbs?

Carbohydrates are used by dogs as a source of glucose. As such, carbs provide energy, a source of heat when metabolized, and products that can be used as building blocks for other nutrients.

Carbohydrates can be divided into two categories: simple and complex.

Simple carbohydrates, such as fructose, sucrose, and lactose, require little or no digestive breakdown and are readily absorbed from the small intestine and converted into glucose. These are found in table sugar, honey, and fruits, as just a few examples.

Complex carbohydrates are further categorized as either starches or fibers, and are digested more slowly than simple carbohydrates. Starches require additional breakdown by enzymes, produced by the pancreas and intestinal wall, before they are absorbed and utilized by the dog. Starches are contained in grains; vegetables such as potatoes and peas; and beans.

Fiber is resistant to enzymatic digestion; some fibers are fermented by intestinal microbes. Dietary fiber is found only in plant foods: fruits, vegetables, nuts, and grains, and comes from the portion of plants that is not digested by enzymes in the intestinal tract.

The glycemic index (GI) – the rate at which carbohydrates are absorbed into the bloodstream – is, in general, lower for foods containing complex carbohydrates than simple carbohydrates, but there are exceptions. A number of factors influence a food’s GI, including processing, type of starch, fiber content, ripeness (of fruit), fat or acid content, preparation, and how each individual’s body processes food, including how much the food is chewed, and how quickly it is swallowed. For example, foods such as carrots, bananas, watermelon, and whole wheat bread might have a high GI, but contain relatively little carbohydrate, with the end result being they have little effect on blood sugar levels.

Common carbohydrate sources used in canine diets include grains, fruits, vegetables, and a few other interesting foodstuffs.

“Whole” grains, which contain the entire grain kernel (the bran, germ, and endosperm), are good quality carb sources. Examples include whole wheat, bulgur, oatmeal, corn/cornmeal, brown rice, buckwheat, barley, rye, amaranth, millet, quinoa, and triticale.

When you find these ingredients in a kibble (or canned food), they will be cooked and therefore readily digestible. For home-prepared diets, it’s essential to cook these grains well, often soaking overnight, to increase digestibility. Whole grains pack a pretty powerful wallop in terms of good stuff such as dietary fiber, B vitamins, and important minerals such as iron, selenium, and magnesium.

Of lesser value are “refined” grains, which have been milled, a process that removes the bran and germ. Milling also removes dietary fiber, iron, and many B vitamins, so refined grains provide little nutrition but still contain the same number of calories. The dog’s body processes refined grains quickly, resulting in a more immediate impact on blood glucose levels. Examples of refined grain products are white flour, degermed cornmeal, white rice, and pasta (semolina).

There might be medical reasons to feed refined grains to a dog (due to their ease of digestibility), but our preference for healthy dogs is to stay away from refined products, particularly in significant quantities. Vegetables and fruits are also common sources of carbohydrates. Tapioca, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and taro, among others, contain starch, and are typically higher in carbohydrate, but are also healthful sources of calories in moderation. When feeding those kinds of vegetables in a home-prepared diet for your dog, you’ll want to cook them. To help with digestibility, most other vegetables should either be cooked or if served raw, finely ground. Fruits and vegetables are a fabulous source of naturally occurring antioxidants.

Other good-quality carbohydrate-containing foods include legumes (beans), dairy products (e.g., milk, cheese, cream cheese, cottage cheese, ricotta cheese, yogurt), some organ meats, oysters, and mussels.

Then there are the “empty” carbs – ingredients that offer little or no nutrition for the dog, but provide some other service. Fiber helps regulate the transit time of the bowel contents and form of the stool. Common sources of this type of fiber include soybean hulls; wheat, rice, or oat bran; beet pulp; and pea fiber.

Why Should Dogs Eat Carbs?

As we mentioned before, dogs have no nutritional requirement for dietary carbohydrates. They can get everything they need from a diet that contains only protein and fat. Energy metabolism in the dog can be based on fat oxidation and the breakdown of protein to produce glucose.

There are two main reasons why we feed carbs to dogs. The first reason is because we can. Dogs can utilize just about anything we feed them; their digestive tracts are extremely versatile. The second reason is economic; fat and protein sources are much more expensive than carbohydrates.

People often point fingers at the pet food industry, accusing it of using grains to nutritionally short-change our pets in favor of profits. But humans have fed grains and other carbohydrate sources to their dogs as long as we’ve had leftovers. Animal protein and fat has always been at a premium! And our dogs have always gotten only as much of the meat (and bones, fat, hooves, connective tissue, and organs) as we felt we could spare.

Also, it’s obviously quite possible to make adequate diets for dogs that are quite high in inexpensive grains – the majority of the global pet food industry is devoted to this very endeavor. If these foods were as nutritionally inadequate as many industry critics make them out to be, we wouldn’t have a pet overpopulation problem, if you know what we mean! Many carbs contain a slew of vitamins, phytochemicals, minerals, trace elements, dietary fiber, and even some fatty acids and protein. And many dogs do just fine on these diets.

Structurally, carbohydrates (starches in particular) are essential to dry pet food processing; commercial extruded pet foods use starches to give the food structure and texture. Even some canned dog foods contain a carbohydrate source. Gums and gelling agents are often used to solidify canned food and absorb water in high-moisture foods to eliminate “free” water in the container. Guar gum is one agent used that is derived from the ground endosperm of the guar plant; it is used as an emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer in canned foods.

In addition to keeping kibble together, carbohydrate-rich ingredients are included in many commercial dog foods because of their relatively low cost, caloric contribution (4 calories/gram) and ease of sourcing. This helps keep the price of the food attractive to cost-conscious dog owners.

Bargain hunters aren’t the only ones whose dogs can benefit from diets that contain carbs. According to Susan G. Wynn, DVM, CVA, CVCH, AHG, “While dogs do not require the carbohydrates found in grains or potatoes or any other food, there are some instances where a dog still might derive benefit from them being there.”

Dr. Wynn recently completed a residency in nutrition at the University of Tennessee’s College of Veterinary Medicine, and in addition to private practice, lectures internationally on the topic of clinical nutrition and holistic medicine. She is also a fan of properly formulated carb- and/or grain-containing diets for dogs – except when contraindicated by an individual dog’s medical needs – because both carbs and grains offer certain benefits.

“For instance,” she says, “grains contain certain fibers that are beneficial for the growth of probiotic bacteria in the gut, and they also contain various required vitamins and minerals.”

Dr. Wynn also points out that grains, which have a lower fat content than meat, can be used in some cases as a “place-holder” in a home-prepared diet to help fill up a dog whose weight needs better control.

Sorting Out Carbohydrate Facts From Fiction

Misconceptions abound regarding carbohydrate-containing foods, especially grains, in the canine diet. Dr. Wynn addresses a few of these in her “Pet Health and Nutrition” blog, which we’ve borrowed from here:

“Dogs have a shorter GI tract than people, so they can’t digest grains unless they are partially digested first.”

Fact: Decades of research have proven that dogs digest grains and carbohydrates quite well. More specifically, Dr. Wynn points out that although dogs lack salivary amylase, they
tend not to chew their food; they’re gulpers, so why would they benefit from an oral digestive enzyme? She explains that dogs, like humans, manufacture potent pancreatic amylase and “brush border” enzymes to digest carbs, with most digestion occurring in the first part of the small intestine.

There’s also a belief that a dog’s stomach is acidic and that dogs retain food in their stomachs longer than people, so a meat based diet is more appropriate (protein is initially digested in the stomach). Dr. Wynn points out that the pH range of the dog’s stomach is quite similar to that of humans: it ranges from 1.08 to 5.5 in dogs, and in humans, from 1.0 to 4.0. The main difference is that the dog is actually more alkaline at times. It’s true, she says, that dogs can’t digest cellulose – a single structural carbohydrate used by plants to form things like stalks, seed coats, and vegetable structure – but neither can humans (only some herbivores, such as cows, can). This is why to derive the most benefit from grains and vegetables, we cook or finely grind them first.

“Feeding carbohydrates places stress on the pancreas.”

Fact: The job of the pancreas is to produce enzymes to digest fats, proteins, and starches. During pancreatic inflammation (e.g., pancreatitis), those enzymes are released and cause inflammation and damage to the pancreas and surrounding organs and tissues. To suppress production of the enzymes, veterinarians suggest that you reduce the fat in the dog’s diet and feed a diet that is high in carbohydrates. Dr. Wynn cautions
that casually feeding digestive enzymes daily as a supplement can downregulate the pancreas’ own production of proteases — not necessarily a good thing.

“Grains cause allergies.”

Fact: Dogs can become allergic to certain foods if they have the genetic predisposition to develop food allergies. In a review of seven studies, Dr. Wynn found that dogs are most
commonly allergic to the following foods (in descending order): beef, dairy, wheat, egg, chicken, lamb/mutton, soy, pork, rabbit, and fish. In her personal experience she has seen higher numbers of corn allergy but emphasizes that grains do not constitute the majority of allergy offenders.

Too Much?

Note that some pet food companies take this approach to an extreme, formulating foods that contain more than 50 percent carbohydrates (and low-quality sources at that!). These foods may also contain 15 percent (or more) crude fiber.

According to Small Animal Clinical Nutrition (published by Mark Morris Institute and often considered the bible of pet nutrition), “a small amount of fiber (less than 5 percent) that contains both rapidly and slowly fermentable fibers is recommended in foods for healthy pets.” The text goes on to say that, “Excess fiber may have undesirable effects. For instance, certain fiber types decrease mineral absorption. The effects on mineral absorption vary by type of fiber and the mineral. More rapidly fermentable fibers (e.g., pectins and guar gum) appear to decrease availability of some minerals, whereas fibers that contain more cellulose have little effect on mineral absorption.

“Excess fiber can dilute the energy and nutrient content of the food to such an extent that an animal may have difficulty eating enough of the food to meet its needs.”

How can you tell whether a food contains “too much” total carbohydrate? For that matter, how can you tell at all how much carbohydrate a food contains? The guaranteed minimum percentages of protein and fat, and the maximum percentages of fiber and moisture, are required by law to appear on a pet food label. But only particularly interested owners are apt to learn the approximate carb content of a food; you’d have to either call the pet food maker and ask for this information, or do some math.

To roughly calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in a food, look at the guaranteed analysis on the label, and subtract the amount of protein, fat, moisture, and ash from 100 percent; the carb content is what’s left over. (You may have to contact the company to get the food’s ash content; it’s not required on the label, either.)

“Ideal” Carbohydrate Amounts Vary by Dog

Ultimately, it will be up to your dog – and your observation skills – to determine what constitutes “too much” and “too little” carbohydrate in his diet; there is no such thing as an “ideal” percentage of carbs in a canine diet. It totally depends on the dog, say Sean Delaney, DVM, MS, DACVN, and Sally Perea, DVM, MS, DACVN, veterinary nutritionists with Natura Pet Products. Drs. Delaney and Perea agree that some dogs do well on lower carbohydrate foods and others do not; it depends on the individual

Dr. Wynn adds, “Different dogs digest grains in different ways. Some dogs have excellent stool quality when there are grains in the diet, and others don’t. As a species, the domestic dog does not have a single, consistent nutrient profile requirement.”

Given that there is no commonly accepted ideal for the carb content of canine diets, there aren’t standards for what is considered low, moderate, or high carb levels, either. Drs. Delaney and Perea say they classify carbohydrate content in dog food as “low” when less than 20 to 25 percent of the calories in the diet are from carbohydrates. They’d classify as “moderate” foods with 25 to 40 percent (and even as much as 60 percent) of their calories attributable to carbohydrate.

All three veterinarians advise that for dogs known to be fat intolerant or who suffer from diseases like hypertriglyceridemia (high blood fat levels) and pancreatitis, very low carbohydrate diets might need to be avoided because of their traditionally higher fat content. For those requiring lower fat diets, adjusting the amount of food containing dietary carbohydrate upward is usually necessary.

Delaney and Perea agree that feeding whole grains, for example, might not be optimal for every pet, since whole grains provide a significant amount of dietary fiber, which may or may not be desirable for a certain dog. But feeding fiber-containing foods is beneficial in the management of many large bowel diseases and some small bowel diseases. Fibrous foods have the ability to delay gastric emptying, slow small bowel transit time, bind toxins and irritating bile acids, and normalize gut motility.

For the gestating/lactating female, it is recommended to supply food containing readily digestible carbohydrates and starches. The book Small Animal Clinical Nutrition notes, “Gestation and lactation increase the need for glucose to support fetal growth and lactose synthesis in milk. Fetal abnormalities, embryo resorption, ketosis, and reduced milk production are possible adverse effects of providing inadequate carbohydrates during gestation and lactation.”

When to Limit Carbs for Your Dog

There are times, however, when carbohydrate sources (including grains) in an individual dog’s diet are contraindicated. Dr. Wynn has seen some dogs thrive when switched from a high-carb or even a moderate-carb food, to a low-carb food.

“In the case of animals with chronic conditions of many types, the central problem may be a sick gut. We used to (and still do) call this a leaky gut, but more recently gastroenterologists have come to agree that the condition exists, and call it a hyperpermeable gut. Chronic inflammation of the gut may appear due to food allergy or less well understood inflammatory processes like inflammatory bowel disease. Even a transient gastroenteritis or antibiotic therapy can lead to inflammation of the gut lining.”

What’s all this got to do with carbohydrates? Dr. Wynn explains that chronic inflammation in the gut erodes the most superficial layers of the mucosal lining. This is the location of the cells that actively secrete enzymes and other products that aid in normal digestion, absorption, and even immunity.

When the most superficial layer of the gut is eroded away due to inflammation, it is possible that mature digestive enzymes  are lost. Disaccharides – a product of digestion of complex carbohydrates in the stomach and upper intestine – flow down into the small intestine where enzymes usually further digest them into an easily absorbed form. If the disaccharide form remains, it is not absorbed and pulls water into the intestine, resulting in loose stool or diarrhea.

The problem is compounded the longer it exists, with carbohydrate malabsorption leading to increased bacterial fermentation, causing gas and discomfort. Bacterial overgrowth can itself lead to diarrhea.

If amidst all this, the dog is switched to a grain-free or low carbohydrate diet, he just might eventually improve. Dr. Wynn’s caution is that grains often get the blame, when, in fact, it was outside insult to the gut that was most likely at the root of the problem. “While allergy may or may not be a component of the reaction seen when grains are fed to these animals, the carbohydrate overload seems to be a bigger problem,” she says.

“The good news is this: these ‘allergies’ aren’t permanent, unless the patient has a genetic disaccharidase deficiency (which is very uncommon in dogs and cats). In general, balancing the bacterial populations with probiotics, changing the diet so that it contains lower carbohydrate levels and sometimes different proteins, and addressing the cause of the initial bowel inflammation is all that is needed.

“Whether or not the owner wants to go back to feeding a diet higher in carbohydrates depends on other factors, like owner philosophy, financial capacity to buy the more expensive meat products, and whether the dog has a weight problem. Temporary carbohydrate intolerance is different from real food allergies,” says Dr. Wynn.

Low-carbohydrate diets are sometimes recommended for dogs with diabetes and cancer. Clinical trials run by Gregory Ogilvie, DVM, DACVIM, suggest that a low-carbohydrate, high-fat diet containing fish oil and arginine accelerated time to remission in lymphoma patients and may extend the disease-free interval. But if the canine cancer patient is obese, Dr. Wynn adds, a slightly different approach might be needed; her preference is to opt for a lower fat protein, such as tofu, often along with a small amount of a starch, plenty of vegetables, supplemented with the appropriate vitamins and minerals.

Gluten-induced enteropathy or celiac disease, a genetic, chronic inflammatory disease of the small intestine, affects humans. An analogous disorder has been identified in some lines of Irish Setters and is suspected to affect other breeds as well, although not studied. Affected animals develop small bowel diarrhea, weight loss, and poor condition after being fed a diet that includes gluten, a protein substance found in some grains, including wheat, barley, rye, and triticale; whether oats are contraindicated is debatable.

In the Irish Setters studied, gluten-sensitive enteropathy was found to be a familial (genetic) condition and began to manifest itself at roughly 4 to 6 months of age. Feeding a gluten-free diet resolved the symptoms. A few gluten-free sources of carbohydrate include potato, rice, soy, amaranth, quinoa, and buckwheat.

Methods for Considering Carb Content in Your Dog’s Diet

Few dog food labels list the food’s carbohydrate content (it’s not legally required to be on the label). If it’s not there, Drs. Delaney and Perea suggest calling the pet food company and asking for the food’s “caloric distribution.” This will tell you the percentage of the calories in the food that are attributable to its protein, its fat sources, and its carbohydrates. That is, if the company’s representatives are able or authorized to give you this information. (The range of professionalism among pet food company customer service representatives is astounding.)

To roughly calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in a food, look at the guaranteed analysis on the label, and subtract the protein, fat, moisture, and ash content from 100 percent. (You may have to contact the manufacturer or look at its website to get the ash content; it’s not required on the label.) The remainder is an approximate percentage of carbs in the diet, and includes the food’s crude fiber.

The maximum amount of crude fiber — the insoluble portion of the food’s fiber, with no nutritional value — is required on pet food labels. Some foods have similar total carbohydrates, but divergent crude fiber percentages. A relatively high crude fiber percentage might signal low-quality fiber sources (the infamous “fillers”), or indicate the food maker’s intent to provide so-called “satisfying, but low-calorie fiber” — or both.

– Nancy Kerns

Since Drs. Delaney and Perea were the veterinary nutritionists who recommended asking about the “caloric distribution” of various foods, and they work for Natura Pet Products, it was not surprising that when we called the Natura customer service line and asked for the caloric distribution of its grain-free Evo Turkey & Chicken Formula dry dog food, we promptly received that information: calories from protein: 39.5%; calories from fat: 502%; calories from carbohydrates: 10.4%.

Note that some companies cannot or simply do offer this information for their foods.

100% Nutritional contents
– 42% protein
– 22% fat
– 10% moisture
– 11.7% ash
= 14.3% carb

Next, we wanted to calculate the percentage of carbohydrate in the same food. The label doesn’t list ash, so we had to look that up on the Natura website. Then, using the rest of the info from the product label, we subtracted the percentage of protein, fat, moisture and ash from 100 percent. The remainder is the approximate amount of carbohydrate in the food.

It’s interesting to compare the amount of carbs in foods meant for different purposes; it’s also interesting to compare the percentage of a food’s crude fiber to its carb content. Using the same rough method as above, we calculated the percentage of carbohydrates
in foods with a range of carb content. The first two are grain-free.

ADULT DOG DRY FOOD APPROXIMATE CARB % % CRUDE FIBER
Evo (grain free, turkey & chicken) 14.3 2.5
Blue Buffalo (grain free, chicken) 32.0 6.5
Castor & Pollux Ultramix 41.9 3.0
Mulligan Stew (fish recipe) 46.0 8.0
Hill’s r/d (prescription weight loss, low calorie) 46.7 11.9
Avo Derm (large breed, chicken & brown rice) 47.5 3.5
Purina Veterinary Diets OM (prescription weight loss) 47.7 16.0
Eukanuba Naturally Wild (salmon & rice) 48.0 4.0
Hill’s Nature’s Best (chicken & brown rice) 50.5 3.5
Eukanuba Weight Control 54.7 4.0

An Individual Decision

Dr. Wynn doesn’t approve of diets formulated with high concentrations of carbohydrates simply to limit the cost of feeding the dog. But she does believe that there is no reason to expressly avoid carbs unless an individual dog has a specific intolerance to them or some condition that requires the use of a diet that is low in carbohydrates.

Remember that “the best diet” is an individual matter. Your friend’s strategy for feeding her Golden Retriever won’t necessarily be the best for your Golden. Read labels, understand what you’re feeding, research the manufacturer if feeding a commercial product, and feed the highest quality food that your budget can handle. Like everything we do with our dogs, pay attention to what your dog’s telling you, and after you pick up the food bowl each day, let your dog and his health determine what’s best for him.

Thanks to Dr. Wynn for allowing WDJ to borrow from her Pet Health and Nutrition blog.

SHOULD DOGS EAT CARBS? OVERVIEW

1. “Listen” to your dog! Skin, coat, eyes, stool, regurgitation/vomiting, energy, behavior, and urinalysis/bloodwork are all indicators of whether what you’re feeding is working.

2. Don’t banish carbohydrates from your dog’s diet without understanding why you’re doing so.

3. When feeding carbs, feed high quality sources such as whole grains, fruits, and vegetables.

4. If and when you make a dietary change, document it well: make a list of what was in the previous food, what’s in the new one, and compare.

Freeland writer Lisa Rodier is K9 Nosework enthusiast who lives in Kingston, Rhode Island, with her husband and their Bouvier, Atle.

Was Your Dog Sprayed by a Skunk? Here’s How To Get That Smell Out!

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[Updated May 12, 2017]

Skunks, skunks, skunks! Half a dozen of my friends have reported skunk/dog encounters in the past WEEK! These usually happen late at night, when the dog goes out for his last potty of the night before bedtime . . . and suddenly the whole family is wide, wide awake and facing an odoriferous emergency. What to do?

First, and most important: DO NOT BATHE THE DOG! Or pour tomato juice on him, or any of the other home remedies you’ve heard about. But DO check your cupboards for a quart of hydrogen peroxide (it’s usually found in most medicine cabinets in a pint size. If you have two pints, or one pint and a small dog, you’re in luck.).

You’ll want to do this as quickly as possible – both because it works best on the fresh, unoxidized compounds in the skunk “spray”, and because you’ll be suffering in the meantime. If the dog has been bathed, or even just rinsed with water, it’s not quite as effective as it would have been with fresh skunk spray. If the spray is fresh, it’s like magic, but it’s actually just good science.

Mix your quart of regular 3% hydrogen peroxide in a bowl or bucket with 1/4 cup of baking soda. This will start fizzing and bubbling (which is why one can’t pre-make the formula and store it in a bottle). Add about a teaspoon of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid; it helps distribute the stuff around the dog’s hair. Wet the dog thoroughly with the mixture, sponging carefully around the face. Most dogs’ faces will be badly skunked, so you really want to wet the face, but don’t get it in their eyes or nose, because it stings.

You’ll notice an immediate cessation of the skunk smell. Skunk spray contains a substance known as a “thiol” – an organosulfur compound that contains a sulfur-hydrogen bond. Many thiols have a repulsive and potent odor (at least to humans); thiols are said to be detectable by the human nose at concentrations of only 10 parts per billion. But the compounds can be immediately altered into odor-free neutral substances by making oxygen molecules (provided by the fresh hydrogen peroxide/baking soda mix) bond with and chemically alter the thiols.

After the dog is thoroughly wetted with the mixture, and every trace of the scent is gone, then rinse the dog with water, or bathe him with water and shampoo, to rinse off the mixture (which can irritate and dry his skin if left on).

I’ve used the mixture on my dog Otto twice; both events happened last year at about this time. He’s gotten a lot smarter, and now recognizes skunks as bad mojo; he won’t chase or approach them any more! But his Jack Russell Terrier “cousin” (my sister’s dog), has been skunked at least once annually for each of his 14 years. Owners of this type of dog are well-advised to buy quarts of hydrogen peroxide and keep them on hand at all times!

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Positive Dog Training for Hunting Dogs

Retrievers, yes. Pointers, yes. Setters, yes. Spaniels, yes. Curs . . . wait. Curs? Wait a minute. Feists? Plott Hounds? Not so fast! What’s going on here? I thought we were talking “hunting dogs.”

Depending on who you talk to, “hunting dog” means very different things. The only thing in common may very well be that the human end of the leash historically toted a gun in pursuit of some type of “game.” The game in question was not after-dinner parlor entertainment, but the entree on your dinner table. That might be pheasant, duck, or squirrel. Through hundreds of years, the real-life pursuit of food for one’s family has morphed into a competitive sport for people who rely upon Safeway to meet their nutritional needs.

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The diversity of breeds and types of competition is simply mind-boggling, with separate sanctioning organizations, each with its own standards of competition for retrievers, pointers, setters, etc., as well as for coon hounds, curs, and feists. There are many different kinds of hunting (bird dogs, treeing dogs, scent hounds, etc.) and each type of hunting competition has its own unique rules and regulations – and owners who are hunting for ribbons for their walls and bragging rights among friends and competitors.

Hunting is also another sport in which, historically, dogs are usually trained with at least a certain amount of traditional, force-based training methods. It is common practice in all the hunting disciplines to use shock collars and other compulsive training techniques, even on very young puppies.

However, there are more and more people in the hunt and field sports who are breaking from tradition and using positive reinforcement in their hunting dog training. I found two Yahoo discussion lists dedicated to positive gun dog training, and met some wonderful proponents of this new approach. You are in for a treat. Meet three pioneers from a small but growing band of people whose quest for ribbons has not trumped their love of their dogs nor their belief in the power of positive reinforcement training.

Inga From: Bringing clickers and gun dogs together
Inga From, CPDT-KA, is a professional trainer and the behavior and training coordinator for the Minnesota Valley Humane Society. In her day job she manages shelter volunteers, runs the shelter’s dog training program, and offers pet education to the public and to shelter staff and volunteers. In 2008 she was the recipient of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers’ Premier Shelter Staff Award.

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In addition to her day job, she runs a private training business that offers a variety of services and classes, including gun dog training. She is an ex-game warden, and she and her husband hunt waterfowl and upland birds with their yellow Lab (Loki) and Springer Spaniel (Ammo).

From grew up with dogs. Her mother was a groomer and the family had Springers. From started 4-H in grade school and dog training became her favorite hobby. She showed in county, state, and regional fairs in obedience and conformation all through high school. Her father taught her hunting ethics: “I hunt only what I will eat and I will not be wasteful with game or disrespectful to habitat, land owners, or animals.”

From learned how to work with gun dogs from friends during high school. Later, she joined a program called Women in the Outdoors, a division of the National Wild Turkey Federation. All the training was traditional. Then she met her husband Mike, who also had a hunting dog (Loki), but was not comfortable with some conventional, force-based training.

“He listened to the dog and if Loki seemed unhappy, he would change things to fit the situation. He worked Loki in a non-traditional way and was not even aware of it. Loki has been working years in the field and is a very successful retriever without being taught a force fetch. Loki has hunted season after season without the use of an electronic collar. I figured if my husband can do this as a dog owner, why can’t I, a professional dog trainer?”

From’s crusade was about to begin.

She started by clicker training her dog, Ammo, for pet manners. “I knew that he was going to be trained with a clicker for manners so why would I switch training methods on him just because he was going to hunt? I stayed the course with him and his clicker, and he has never known any other way. Ammo has also enjoyed many seasons in the field hunting with Loki, my husband, and me, and he does just fine; we rarely lose any birds.”

From attended a seminar on the East Coast by Jim Barry, and she looked into the United Kingdom Gundog Club, which she heard might fit her philosophy about training and hunting. “I teach positive training and I use clickers. I use the LIMA (least invasive, minimally aversive) principle in all my teaching. Because of the training methods I choose to use, the U.K. gun dog award fits the best for this type of training. All of the current U.S. organizations that test gun dogs are dominated by traditional force-based training.”

From’s clients are supportive. They have not felt welcome at many trials because they don’t use traditional methods. Some have even been told they can’t use clickers. But the U.K. Gundog Club puts a heavy emphasis on obedience training before training for a sport. Also, electronic shock collars are not embraced by British trainers generally, and it is believed that the use of shock collars will be outlawed in the U.K. With such an emphasis on basic training first, From feels that clicker training will have a much better chance in the U.K. program.

From sees a trend from the people who attend her seminars. Instead of being hunters themselves, they have a family dog that they are interested in training for what he or she was bred to do.

“I hope to pioneer this new field of family dog field training; it’s increasing in demand, especially in my state of Minnesota. I had people come to my last seminar from not only Minnesota, but also Iowa, Wisconsin, and Illinois. I am a hunter myself, but train my dogs in a non-traditional method for the gun dog world. People like me are out there, and they want something more than what is now available in the gun dog world.

“It’s not that traditional training does not work with gun dogs; it does. It’s that there are other alternatives that will work just as well in the long run. Why not blaze a new trail and see if anyone will follow? I cannot wait for the day when this type of training is mainstream and there is an organization in the U.S. that supports and expands it. Maybe I’ll have to start my own club for positive-trained gun dogs! I am working on that now, slowly, step by step with Positive Gun Dogs of Minnesota.”

Jim Barry: Writing guides for others
Jim Barry, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is the author of The Ethical Dog Trainer and co-author of Positive Gun Dogs: Clicker Training for Sporting Breeds. In addition to running a private dog training business (Reston Dog Training, in Reston, Virginia), Barry is a senior fellow at the Center for International Development and Conflict Management of the University of Maryland, where he conducts research on international issues and teaches programs in negotiation and crisis leadership.

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Barry is one of only two people in the U.S. to have been authorized to give awards for field tests sponsored by the U.K. Gundog Club. His entry into the gun dog world came about after he got his black Labrador, Toby. Barry and his wife Vicki planned on doing therapy dog work with their new pup, purchased from a breeder of show/obedience lines. That quickly changed as Toby demonstrated his love of water and a strong retrieving instinct. “I started working on a formal retrieve and one thing led to another,” said Barry.

At the time, Barry was an intern with Carole Peeler, CDBC, CPDT-KA in Falls Church, Virginia. Barry completed all of Peeler’s clicker training classes, and then started looking for a trainer who used clicker training for field work. “I was disappointed to discover that no one in my area taught field work with positive methods,” he says. He joined the Positive Gun Dogs discussion list on Yahoo.com, started reading everything he could get his hands on, talked to experienced gun dog trainers, and then tried applying clicker training to it all. As a result, Toby now has a Working Certificate from the Labrador Retriever Club of the United States. “In a sense, Toby and I were the ‘lab rats’ for this new method of gun dog training.”

Barry met his co-authors on the Yahoo list, and together, they decided the world needed a book about clicker training for gun dogs. Their resulting book was published in 2007. “It seemed like every time a new person joined the Yahoo list, he or she asked, ‘Where’s the book on positive field training?’ There were none at the time, although Helen Phillips in the U.K. later wrote Clicker Gundogs, so we decided to write one. Sue Smith took the lead on the learning theory and basic training chapters, I wrote the retrieving sections, and Mary Emmen did the upland hunting portions.”

The mere thought that dogs could be trained without shock collars, much less with a clicker, was to say the least, novel. And unproven. To have a book published on the subject gave a small, but growing, community of positive trainers the boost they needed. However, Barry is circumspect about the growth of positive training in the sport.

“All dog sports are challenging, but in gun dog training there are three specific issues that stand out. The first is that the tasks are inherently very demanding, both physically and mentally. They may involve working in difficult terrain and nasty weather for long periods of time, searching for game that is hidden in deep cover. Dogs may have to swim long distances, climb banks, and jump fences. And all of this must be done while being attentive to the handler and the goals.

“The second challenge is that much of the work is done at great distance. In higher-level retriever tests, for examples, multiple retrieves at distances of hundreds of yards are not uncommon. Finally, in field work, there are many opportunities for dogs to engage in inherently rewarding behaviors, such as chasing game or following scents that do not coincide with the handler’s desires.

“Because of these complexities, we had to think creatively not only about basic training methods, but also how to organize training and the sequence in which various skills are introduced. We know that you can train a reliable hunting companion without using an electric collar. I’ve done it and so have many others. We also know that you can train pointing dogs to Master Hunter level and, with patience and dedication, retrievers to at least Senior Hunter level.

“Finally, thousands of high-performing gun dogs have been trained in the U.K. and other European countries where e-collars are either banned or rarely used. What we don’t know, and may not know for some time, is whether dogs can be trained to the highest levels in U.S. retriever trials using positive reinforcement exclusively. As noted above, these trials are exceedingly difficult and require training dogs to do things that are in some ways counter-intuitive, such as holding straight lines rather than taking routes that require less energy. Several dedicated people are working on this goal, and time will tell.”

Barry agrees with Inga From that the U.K. Gundog Club is a good fit for training the family dog to be a gun dog. He, too, believes that the emphasis on steadiness and reliability before training hunting skills is a good fit for positive training. This is because training at a skill level that is too advanced for the dog (e.g., long-distance retrieves) often prompts trainers to use aversive methods such as the shock collar.

Barry is both hopeful and realistic about the trend in positive gun dog training. “I think it’s largely a reflection of the general interest in more humane training. However, the growth is slow because there is little overlap between people who hunt and people who are interested in operant conditioning! But the Positive Gun Dogs (Yahoo) list now has some 800 members, up from 300 when I joined, so that’s progress!”

That said, Barry is not overly optimistic about positive training becoming mainstream any time soon. “I believe this is beginning to occur for pointing and versatile breeds. In the U.S. retriever trial world, I believe it will take a very long time. This is both because of the demands of the sport and because there is currently a strongly held belief, fostered by professional field trainers and e-collar manufacturers, that existing training systems are highly effective. Having said that, I also believe that positive training has begun to catch on for recreational hunters and people who want enrichment activities for their family dogs. This is where I see the greatest opportunity for acceptance and growth.”

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Lindsay Ridgeway: Proving it can be done
Lindsay Ridgeway, of Laytonsville, Maryland, is a software designer by day, but some of his proudest moments have come from designing dog training plans and seeing his dogs blossom as a result. Ridgeway is an active proponent of positive gun dog training and is considered by some to be the poster child of the movement toward positive training in the sport. He and his Golden Retrievers, Lumi and Laddie, achieved AKC’s Junior Hunter (JH) and Senior Hunter (SH) titles, with some first-place finishes along the way. They also have been awarded the highest field title (Working Certificate Excellent) from the Golden Retriever Club of America – all without using aversives in training.

It could be argued that Ridgeway’s influence in the sport is a result of two of his hobbies. In the past, he participated in endurance sports, running 14 marathons, and thus has a keen understanding of the mental and physical stamina required to go the distance. His other hobby, which he applies skillfully, is writing about dog training! More than likely, it will be the combination of stamina and writing that will help him pursue personal training goals as well as getting the word out about positive gun dog training.

In 2003, Ridgeway got his first Golden Retriever, Lumi. He discovered clicker training after trying puppy training techniques that he found scary for his pup and detrimental to his relationship with her. He started the DogTrek (Yahoo) list in 2005 to share his experiences.

He competed with Lumi in agility, but retired her from that sport when arthritis made competing and training too difficult. It was then that he began the search for alternatives to conventional gun dog training techniques. In 2007 he brought home Laddie. Three years later he had JH, SH, and GRCA titles on both dogs. How did he do it?

“Like nearly all clicker trainers who come to the sport, I initially found books on traditional field training useless except for their interesting anecdotes, because the stated goal of every exercise seemed to be to teach the dog to accept force, and that was simply not my goal. I reached the same conclusion that clicker trainers attempting field work almost invariably reach: whole new training methods would be needed.”

Ridgeway spent hours reading books and participating in online discussion groups and met two traditional trainers who were willing to share their methods and love of the sport.

“They took me under their wings. They helped me understand that those traditional drills were exactly what my dogs needed; I just needed to subtract the coercion element. As they helped me to understand the procedures, I saw that in most cases, in addition to training the dog to accept force, the drills also taught the dog vital concepts of field work.

“Generations of trainers had discovered not only what concepts the field dog needs to learn, but equally important, in what order those concepts need to be learned. I simply had to train those concepts in new ways, while allowing my dogs to go through the same crucial sequence of learning. The missteps my mentors helped me and my dogs to avoid became as crucial as finding the correct stepping stones to follow,” says Ridgeway.

Key to his success, Ridgeway believes, was his ability to put aside philosophical differences and to learn from those experienced traditional trainers. “Several times a week, I’d watch expert trainers and their dogs perform the skills that Lumi and Laddie were also learning to perform. Yes, I was ‘different’ because of my strange refusal to use ‘corrections,’ and as in any group some of the relationships were smoother than others. But real friendships were forged and became the key to continued progress. Without them, my dogs’ field careers would have ended before they started.”

When asked how he responds to people who say that dogs in this sport simply can’t be trained without shock collars, Ridgeway’s response reflects both his pragmatism and optimism. “I think that it is far more difficult to train without aversive methods in sports that are closely bound to the dog’s breeding traits – sports such as herding, police-dog work, and field work. For the trainers who first attempt such training, progress may be significantly slower than for traditional trainers following a well-established program, and it may even be that generations from now, such methods will still be slower than traditional methods.

“In addition, my dogs have only attained their Senior Hunter titles so far, and it remains to be seen whether more advanced titles are even possible for [dogs trained with positives]. So my answer is: Yes, training without an e-collar makes participation in the sport more challenging than training with one. But Lumi and Laddie, dogs with very different breeding and personalities, have shown that it is possible to train a retriever to advanced titles using [positive] methods.”

Ridgeway has every intention of continuing to train Laddie for other advanced titles. He has a list of training goals and is in the process of designing training plans to attain them. “Unless and until I, or someone else, shows that positive training can accomplish the same goals as traditional tools and methods without significantly more time and effort, I see little incentive for most serious amateurs or professionals to switch to [positive] methods unless they have personal reasons for doing so. On the other hand, the traditional tools and methods for training a retriever have become dramatically more humane over the years, and I suspect that trend may continue. Whether the efforts and achievements of positive trainers, who comprise an infinitesimal fraction of the sport, will have any effect on that trend, I consider doubtful. I think it’s just that as time goes by, traditional trainers discover new tools and methods that are more effective and also happen to be more humane.”

But that doesn’t mean that he isn’t going to do his best to prove that it can be done.

Terry Long, CPDT-KA, is a writer, agility instructor, and behavior counselor in Long Beach, CA. She lives with four dogs and a cat and is addicted to agility and animal behavior. See page 24 for contact info.

Volunteer

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I volunteer for my local animal shelter. I serve on the Board of Directors. I help the shelter staff with their newsletter. I’m in the process of putting together a volunteer’s manual, so we can get all the dog-walkers on the same page in terms of handling the dogs. But they recently tossed me a hot potato: Leading a two-hour tour of the shelter for kids from the local YMCA.

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I thought to myself, “Kids, dogs? What’s the problem?” Sure, I said. I’ll do it. I had only a slight misgiving when the woman who last ran the tour did a little tap dance of joy upon hearing she didn’t have to do it this time.

As it turned out, it was a joy, for me, anyway. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to try to indoctrinate kids with some pointed messages about pet care.

I started out with some positive training. I had equipped myself with about 1,000 little individually wrapped candies (Smarties and Tootsie Rolls). As the kids filed into the reception area, I walked among them and started clicking and treating the ones who were being quiet. Of course, some of them started begging. “Hey! I want one!” When this happened, I did what you’d do to any puppy who did the same: I turned my back and walked away. It took about two minutes for whole group to catch onto the game, and another minute or two for a few kids to “offer a sit.” I poured treats down on those kids, and within another minute, the whole group was seated quietly on the floor, paying rapt attention. Positive training works on any animal species!

That exercise really was all about getting them settled in and paying attention, but I also used it as an example of how we train the dogs at the shelter to sit quietly in front of their doors. I asked them, “How did I get you to sit down and be quiet? Did I yell at you? Did I push you onto the floor? No! All I did was reward the kids who were doing what I wanted them to do. Anyone who was doing the right thing got treats, but the ones who were doing something I didn’t want them to do got ignored. That’s how we train the dogs here to behave well enough that someone will want to adopt them.” How likely is it, I asked them, that mom or dad will want to adopt a dog who barks and leaps all over the door? We have to help the dogs learn to be calm and quiet, I said, so you have to be quiet and calm, too.

I told them about the “four on the floor rule,” and explained that they could give treats to any dog who had all four feet on the floor, but if a dog jumped up, the kid should step away from the kennel. And then step back quickly with a treat when the dog had four on the floor again.

 But before we went out into the kennels, I asked them what they knew about the animal shelter. How did animals end up there? Even the smallest kids knew that some animals were there because they were lost or ran away from home, and that other ones were there because their owners didn’t want them anymore. Heartbreaking.

So I talked to them about the fact that the shelter takes care of the animals that are lost or unwanted. I let them know that although the animals had been through a lot, they were lucky to have ended up at this shelter, because now they got food, medicine, love, and training, and with luck, they’d find a home, too. I talked to them about spay and neuter surgery, and how all the dogs and cats had this surgery before they left the shelter, so they could never have babies that no one wanted and weren’t cared for. I also wanted them to make sure their pets had identification on their collars, and we talked about ways they could accomplish this even if their parents didn’t buy an ID tag.

Finally I gave each kid a handful of hot dog slivers and we went out into the kennels. And it was quiet – vibrantly, electrically quiet.

Does Your Dog Bite Your Hand While Receiving Treats?

Many of us have dogs who bite down too hard when taking treats – the behavior sometimes known as “hard mouth.” Some dogs take treats forcefully all the time; others get hard mouths only when stressed or excited. One theory is that a hard mouth is a function of bite inhibition – or lack thereof. If a dog doesn’t learn to use his mouth softly during puppyhood, he’s likely to resort to using too much pressure with his mouth throughout his life. But some dogs with acceptably soft mouths take treats hard when stressed or excited. Here are five things you can do when facing a “hard mouth” challenge:

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1. Teach remedial bite inhibition (see “Light Bite,” WDJ June 2010). Even though this may not get you through the higher arousal situations with your fingers intact, it will help a lot with everyday treat-feeding.

2. Use lower-value treats. Wait, what? I often exhort you to use high-value treats for effective training. But the chances are good that an “alligator dog” is very motivated to work for food; he may work just as hard for pieces of kibble as he does for chunks of chicken – and it may tone down his enthusiasm enough to save your digits. Try training after meals instead of before. This goes against our standard advice to train when you know your dog is hungry – which logically means before he eats his dinner. The exception is the dog who strains your hand through his teeth as he forcibly removes the treat from your grasp. Taking the edge off his appetite may help him remember to be gentle.

3. Feed him like a horse. Equestrians feed treats on the flat of the hand; horses can have trouble distinguishing fingers from carrots. You can do the same with your dog. It’s a little trickier because we’re often luring with treats, which can make fingers a prime target, but you can lure to get your dog to do the behavior, then click and quickly feed a treat from the flat palm of your other hand.

4. Toss or spit treats to your dog. Treats don’t always have to be delivered to your dog’s mouth from your hand; you can often toss them on the ground for your dog to eat. This isn’t a good choice when you want to reinforce a non-moving behavior (such as wait, stay, or down) by giving your dog a treat while he’s in the correct position, because a tossed treat may pull your dog out of position. But tossing works just fine for many others behaviors such as targeting and “leave it.” An old obedience competition trick is to teach your dog to catch treats that you spit to him from your mouth. That reinforces him for the behavior you asked for as well as for looking adoringly at you – when actually he’s staring intently at your mouth waiting for the next treat to fly out. (Of course, you have to use treats you’re willing to put in your own mouth, such as slices of hot dog.)

5. Use a treat-feeding tool. My favorite is a camping tube, designed for holding moist foods on camping trips in secure, easy-to-carry containers (available at camping supply stores). These require that you use treats that are in a gel or paste form, such as peanut butter, cream cheese or other soft cheese, or canned dog food. The back end of the tube opens wide so that you can load the food in and then close it up, and a cap screws off the other end so you can squeeze out a little when desired. (You may need to experiment to get your treats to be the proper consistency to ooze out the end of the tube at the desired rate.) Other treat-feeding tools that you can use to protect your hands include:

  • Gloves: My least favorite, as gloves can be awkward and interfere with dexterity, and are hot in the summer!
  • Finger splints: These are small foam-padded metal finger covers that Velcro onto your fingers. Many dogs don’t like to bite on metal, and if it doesn’t slow your dog down, the metal splint still protects your finger. Using a finger splint, you can still deliver treats in the normal fashion, rather from the flat of your hand.
  • Spoons: A metal spoon, like the finger splint, can convince many dogs to bite softly because it doesn’t feel good to bite on metal. You will need to use a soft treat that will stick to the spoon.
  • Easy Cheese (made by Kraft Foods) or similar “squeeze cheese” spread: These are not the healthiest snacks, but used in moderation as training treats, they can be very helpful. You bend the nozzle at its base with your finger to release a few drops or globs and your dog licks the cheese-like substance off the end of the nozzle. No teeth needed at all!

Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, cdbc, of Fairplay, Maryland, is WDJ’s Training Editor. See page 24 for contact info for Pat or her Peaceable Paws training center.