July 4th is a dreaded time for thousands of noise-sensitive dogs and their owners. In many parts of the country sound-sensitive dogs and the humans who love them are already struggling with the effects of thunderstorms – thank goodness fireworks really only occur once a year. Our Corgi, Lucy, is a thunder-phobe, and we know all too well the impact thunder and firecrackers have on her (and our) quality of life. Fortunately, the following can make life better for you and your dog during noisy events.
1. Stay Home
Ever since the mid-1980s, when we shared our lives with our first sound-sensitive dog, Independence Day and New Year’s Eve have been occasions to stay home rather than go out and celebrate. You can relieve some of your dog’s stress with just your comforting presence. It’s harder to stay home consistently during thunderstorms unless you have the good fortune to work from home, but there may be times when you can make the choice to pass on an optional outing if a storm is coming.
2. Hold Your Dog
Despite what you’ve heard to the contrary, it’s perfectly okay to comfort your sound-stressed dog, as long as you do it calmly. If she wants to be in your lap, or next to you on the couch or the floor, let her. If it helps her to calmly put your arms around her and hold her, or do calming massage or T-Touch, do it. This is not operant reinforcement of her fear; it just helps her feel better – and may even work to classically counter-condition her very negative association with thunder or fireworks.
It doesn’t help, though, if you are stressed, chanting, “It’s okay, it’s okay,” over and over, while rubbing your dog as if you were drying her off with a towel. In other words, you need to stay calm, too!
3. Manage/Minimize Intensity of the Stimulus
Reduce the intensity of the fear-causing stimuli by closing curtains to shut out the visual effects (flashes of lighting, lights, or sparks of fireworks) that your dog associates as reliable predictors of the bad noise.
White noise machines can help mask the sounds; so can the especially composed “Through a Dog’s Ear” CDs, especially if you have played the CDs during relaxing times so your dog already has a calm, positive association with the music. (If you play them only during storms he may form a negative association with the otherwise calming music.)
You can also use Mutt Muffs to muffle the sound. Use positive classical conditioning to convince him that the earmuffs make wonderful treats happen. (Of course, if he is disturbed by the Muffs even after multiple classical conditioning sessions, don’t force them on him.)
4. Counter-Condition
Use recordings of thunderstorm sounds and/or storm sounds. Start with the volume at barely audible levels – or even inaudible levels, if your dog is still worried. Pair this low-level sound with wonderful things, such as high-value treats, or games of fetch or tug, until your dog gets happily and consistently excited in anticipation of his favorite things when you turn the sound on. Then turn the volume up slightly and continue.
This is a long-term project; don’t expect to turn up the volume every session. This won’t fix everything; your storm-phobic dog may also react to wind, rain, and even the change in barometric pressure, but it’s a start. When a real storm approaches (or fireworks begin) try the counter-conditioning strategy at the earliest hint of stimulus, and keep your dog playing the game as long as possible. When he’s too stressed to take treats or play, revert to other strategies. It helps if you’re lucky with a lot of near-miss storms that give you conditioning opportunities without reaching full intensity.
5. Drugs
Short-acting anti-anxiety medications can greatly enhance your sound-sensitive dog’s quality of life. I give Lucy Alprazolam (Xanax) when storms threaten. It not only helps ease her immediate fears but also seems to have reduced her strong reactions to storms in general.
I can’t tell you which drug is right for your dog, but veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall strongly cautions against using tranquilizers such as acepromazine for sound-anxiety behaviors. “Ace” is a dissociative anesthetic; it scrambles perceptions, which may make the dog more fearful. If your vet isn’t well educated in the use of behavior modification drugs, urge her to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist prior to selecting medications and dosages for your dog.
I was recently contacted by a friend about a darling Border Collie puppy whose photo she found on Petfinder.com – and who was deaf. This friend is crazy about Border Collies, and also knows that I have a deaf Chinese Crested. Thus, she thought of me when she saw this puppy. The person who was fostering the pup was unable to keep her much longer, and did not want to send her to the local shelter as that would almost certainly result in the puppy’s euthanasia. Why? Because that shelter considers all deaf dogs as “unadoptable.”
Yes, deaf dogs can even learn how to perform a fast recall; contrary to popular belief, in order to respond quickly, dogs don’t need to hear a loud call, or any audible signal at all! Trainer Cindy Rich uses the “pledge of allegiance” gesture (hand over her heart) to cue the recall.
This concept is common – and dead wrong. Many people assume that deafness somehow makes a dog untrainable, or that training a deaf dog will require an enormous amount of extra training to prevent tragedy. In reality, training any dog requires time, regardless of whether she can hear or not. Training a deaf dog requires some common sense, but not a ton of extra training. It is unfortunate that deafness often results in a death sentence for perfectly healthy dogs.
Congenital Deafness
Congenital deafness is deafness that a dog is born with. Dr. George M. Strain, Professor of Neuroscience at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine, has found that congenital deafness in companion animals is most commonly inherited from a deaf parent, but may also skip generations.
Dr. Strain lists 92 dog breeds with reported congenital deafness, though he notes that individuals of any breed can have congenital deafness from a variety of causes. Breeds with white pigmentation are most commonly affected, with Dalmatians, Bull Terriers, Australian Shepherds, and Australian Cattle Dogs frequently reported to be partially or completely deaf. Out of more than 5,600 Dalmatians tested for deafness, 441 (7.8%) were reported to be bilaterally deaf, and out of 442 Australian Cattle Dogs tested, 11 (2.5%) were bilaterally deaf. Dr. Strain is currently gathering data on the prevalence of congenital deafness in other breeds.
Are deaf dogs different? It’s often suggested that deaf dogs are prone to biting when startled. The truth is that any dog can nip or bite when startled – it’s just easier to startle a deaf dog than a dog who hears your approach. It’s important to desensitize your dog, hearing or deaf, to touch (for more on this, see “Stay in Touch,” WDJ Jan 2011).
Cindy uses a hand signal to cue a spin.
It’s also a good idea to choose a specific place (shoulder, hip, etc.) to lightly touch your deaf dog as a cue for “pay attention to me” – the equivalent of calling a hearing dog’s name. It’s best to start while your dog is awake and looking at you. Lightly touch this area and feed your dog a treat. Repeat many times. Work up to the point where you can give your dog a light touch while she is looking away and she turns her head toward you with a happy look.
I use a light touch to get my dog’s attention when other methods aren’t convenient. Other methods to get your deaf dog’s attention might include a good stomp on the floor, a flashlight, or a remote-controlled vibration collar. Before relying on these methods to get your dog’s attention, first teach your dog the meaning of them by pairing them with good things – treats, toys, and/or attention.
Another myth about deaf dogs is that you cannot call your dog back if she runs away from you into a dangerous situation. It goes without saying that you should not let a deaf dog run free in any place that you would not let a hearing dog run free. However, there may be an occasion when your dog inadvertently gets away from you. Teaching your deaf dog to “check in” with you frequently, and thus being able to see your non-verbal cue, will aid in preventing disaster.
You can also use a remote-controlled vibration collar to get your dog’s attention over some distance. These devices vary in their maximum range (from as little as 100 feet to more than a mile), but many have an additional shock element, which I do not recommend. Just as a hearing dog must be trained to respond to a recall cue, a deaf dog also must be trained to respond appropriately to a collar vibration. But remember, any dog can have selective “hearing” when recalled unless the behavior is practiced and proofed.
Juneau has been taught to accept touch.
Not Any More Difficult Than Training Any Dog
Deaf dogs are not any harder to train than hearing dogs. It just takes a little practical consideration to train without sound. As a clicker trainer, I use a conditioned reinforcer to mark correct behavior. Since a completely deaf dog cannot hear a clicker, I have found that a keychain flashlight works well. I choose a small flashlight that turns on when the button is pressed and turns off when the button is released – just like a clicker.
As a backup marker, much like using the word “yes” when I do not have a clicker on me, I use a “thumbs up” gesture. It took practice for me to remember to put the thumbs up away quickly, instead of holding it up for an extended period of time and marking more than just the behavior I want. Another practical consideration is that when you mark a behavior with a thumbs up, the dog must be looking at your hand to perceive it. Thus, you must be in your dog’s line of sight while she does the behavior. I prefer the keychain flashlight, because the light can be perceived in the dog’s peripheral vision, thus allowing your dog to focus on what she is doing instead of watching for the thumbs up.
When I explain clicker training in my orientation seminar for basic obedience courses, I use my deaf dog as my demo dog. In my experience, deaf dogs take to “clicker training” just as well as hearing dogs. An added benefit to working with a deaf dog is that they are not distracted by background noises during training. Using my deaf dog in demonstrations highlights the fact that there is nothing magical about a clicker – it is just a convenient tool.
Some people ask if a keychain flashlight would be a good event marker for their hearing dogs. In my opinion, no; light is not quite as versatile as a clicker. It’s difficult to see in bright light, whereas the clicker is a distinct sound that can be perceived in most situations, even in a noisy room, and from a distance.
Some trainers use a “no reward marker” (NRM) during a training session when a dog is not on the right track. It would be easy to use a specific hand signal (maybe a thumbs down?) to act as a NRM.
Juneau’s heelwork is show-ring pretty.
What to Use as Cues?
Without hearing, deaf dogs must rely on their other senses. They are quite attuned to body language, human and dog alike. It makes sense that the majority of cues that they are taught would be visual, including hand signals, body posture, foot position, and eye contact.
Some owners of deaf dogs use American Sign Language (ASL) hand signals as cues. This lends consistency in hand signals for deaf dogs, and is a resource for possible hand signals for us unimaginative folk. Unfortunately, few people are fluent in ASL. Also, it’s inconvenient to use two hands for a cue, as one hand is needed to mark the correct behavior, deliver a treat, and possibly hold onto a leash during training.
I sometimes use letters of the ASL alphabet for behaviors ( “n” for nose touch, “l” for lick) as they only require one hand and are distinct, but I made up most of the hand signals I use with my deaf dog. Her signal for “heel” is a double tap on my left leg. “Leave it” is a flat hand shaken side to side in front of her face. “Spin left” is a flick of the right hand to the right (toward her left side).
Just as you wouldn’t shout when you teach a new verbal cue to a hearing dog, hand signals need not be exaggerated, just perceivable by the dog.
To Talk or Not to Talk?
I do feel that clicker training a deaf dog has made me a better trainer for hearing dogs. It highlights the fact that verbal coaching while training is unnecessary, and can actually get in the way when trying to give consistent cues.
On the other hand, when talking to our dogs our body language naturally and unconsciously changes. Talking to your dog can actually aid in keeping her attention, and in conveying praise and excitement. By talking to your dog you actively engage her. Your entire body conveys that your attention is on her, and this is something which even a deaf dog will be able to pick up.
The lesson is to talk less when training new behaviors, but to talk when you want to keep your dog’s attention and as praise for a job well done.
For example, you want to keep your dog’s attention while heeling. Try silently heeling with your dog, then try happily talking to your dog while heeling. Your body language changes – when you talk to the dog, you will be more animated – and your dog will notice. If talking to your deaf dog produces better results, talk away!
What Does a Deaf Dog Need to Know?
Here are five things that I believe are the most important for deaf dogs to learn:
1. Socialization – Your dog should be comfortable with novelty; new places, people, animals, etc.
2. Touch – Your dog should be comfortable being handled all over.
3. Eye contact/attention – Remember, your deaf dog must be looking at you to perceive your cues.
4. Checking in – Your dog should regularly look to you in case you might give a cue.
5. Emergency recall – In an emergency, you must be able to cue your dog to come back quickly.
Note that these things are important for all dogs – not just deaf dogs. I tend to focus more on touch desensitization and checking in with deaf dogs than with hearing dogs, but otherwise work on the same concepts in the same amounts. If you do not have dog training experience, I would recommend finding a positive reinforcement trainer who is open to working with a deaf dog.
Deaf dogs are not more difficult to train than hearing dogs if you use common sense while training. They are very responsive to hand signals and body language and don’t often startle at unexpected noises. The things that are important for hearing dogs to learn are just as important to deaf dogs. If you find yourself with an opportunity to work with a deaf dog, consider it a learning experience!
Author and trainer Cindy Rich, KPA CTP, of The Canine Connection in Chico, California, has modelled for WDJ photos for a while, but this is her first written contribution to the magazine.
Every behavior and training professional has seen her share of WCCS dogs. Some have developed their own programs to help humans help their dogs. Here are a few:
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-Dr. Karen Overall’s Protocol for Relaxation
Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Overall says, “This program is the foundation for all other behavior modification programs. Its purpose is to teach the dog to sit and stay while relaxing in a variety of circumstances.” dogscouts.org/Protocol_for_relaxation
-Trainer September Morn’s “Go wild and freeze,” as described by trainer/behavior professional Jolanta Benal
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“Start by dancing around and acting excited till your dog gets going, too. After a minute or so, all of a sudden stop moving. Ask your dog to sit, or down, or do another behavior she knows well. The moment she does it, start dancing around again; when your dog joins in, stop, ask for that sit or down again, and reward her by re-starting the party. Mix things up by varying what behaviors you ask for and how long you wait before re-starting the game. If your dog is super-excitable and likely to mouth you or ricochet off you, start with a pale-vanilla version of ‘going wild’ – your dog’s introduction to this game can be ‘Take a Single Step and Freeze.’ You can also retreat behind a baby gate if need be.” Trainer Jolanta Benal’s “Quick and Dirty Tips” podcast can be heard at dogtrainer.quickanddirtytips.com/play-games-bad-weather.aspx.
-Linda Tellington Jones’ TTouch
“The Tellington TTouch is a specialized approach to the care and training of our animal companions. Developed by internationally recognized animal expert, Linda Tellington-Jones, PhD (Hon), this method based on cooperation and respect offers a positive approach to training, can improve performance and health, and presents solutions to common behavioral and physical problems.” ttouch.com/whatisTTouch.shtm; (866)488-6824.
Boy, do I wish I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say their dog was “hyperactive” or “ADHD” – I’d be a wealthy woman. In fact, those are clinical terms referring to very specific behavioral disorders (canine and human) that are relatively uncommon in dogs. In reality, most “hyper” dogs are just under-exercised. A couple of days hiking at the Peaceable Paws farm and you’d hardly know them.
Not every dog owner has access to large tracts of acreage upon which to exercise their hyper dogs, and in any case, “wild child canine syndrome” (WCCS) is more than just lack of exercise; it’s also lack of appropriate reinforcement for calm behavior – i.e., training. Unfortunately, all too often a dog loses his happy home – maybe even his life, as a result of his high-energy behavior.
We’ve seen several of these WCCS dogs at the training center in recent weeks. One private client decided to return her Shar-Pei-mix to the rescue from whence the pup came. Despite her best intentions and efforts, the client had mobility challenges that made it impossible for her to provide the pup with the exercise and management she needed. As painful as it was for the owner, returning the pup was the right decision.
Hyper dogs often include inappropriate biting in their repertoire of undesirable behaviors. We currently have a temporary foster resident at the training center: a 13-week-old high-energy Jack Russell Terrier who failed his assessment at the shelter for using his mouth in protest when restrained. Little Squid is a perfect example of the kind of dog who needs to learn self-control and the art of being calm.
A successful hyper dog behavior modification program contains three elements: physical exercise, management, and training. While any one of these alone can make your high-energy dog easier to live with, apply all three for maximum success. Let’s look at each of these elements in greater detail.
Exercise is Key for Managing Hyper Dogs
Squid’s day begins with an hour of barn-play while we do chores. He delights in harassing our dogs (and our pig). He gets at least one long hike around the farm per day, preferably two, or even three. He also gets one or more sessions of ball/toy fetch in the training center, and some puppy socialization/play time when there’s a class going on. Finally, he wraps up his day with evening barn chores. Does it tire him out? No. I have yet to see him tired. But it does take the edge off, so that when I work with him to teach calm he is able to focus and participate in the training. The physical exercise sets him up for training success.
Not everyone has an 80-acre farm to play on. If you’re farm-deprived, there are other ways to provide exercise for your WCCS dog. A placid walk or three around the block won’t do it. Nor will leaving him on his own in your fenced backyard. He needs to be actively engaged.
Outings to your local well-run dog park can be a good exercise option. If you don’t have one in your area, invite compatible canines over to play in your dog’s fenced yard. If you don’t have one, invite yourself and your dog over to your dog-friend’s fenced yard for play dates.
Absent any access to a dog-friendly fenced yard, play with your dog on a long line. A 50-foot line gives him a 100-foot stretch to run back and forth and work his jollies off.
Caution: Work up to 50 feet gradually, so he learns where the end of the line is. You don’t want him to blast full-speed to the end of his long line and hurt himself. Also, wear long pants. A high-speed long-line wrapped around bare legs can give you a nasty rope burn.
If none of those work for you, having him wear a pack when you walk him, or even better, pull a cart (which takes significant training), or exercising him (safely) from a bicycle may be options for using up excess energy.
Games for Hyperactive Dogs
If outside exercise is simply out of the question, here are some indoor activities that can help take the edge off for your hyper dog:
Find It
Most dogs love to use their noses. Take advantage of this natural talent by teaching yours the “Find It!” game:
1. Start with a handful of pea-sized tasty treats. Toss one to your left and say “Find it!” Then toss one to your other side and say “Find it!” Do this back and forth a half-dozen times.
2. Then have your dog sit and wait or stay, or have someone hold his leash. Walk 10 to 15 feet away and let him see you place a treat on the floor. Walk back to his side, pause, and say “Find it!” encouraging him to go get the treat. Repeat a half-dozen times.
3. Next, have your dog sit and wait or stay, or have someone hold his leash and let him see you “hide” the treat in an easy hiding place: behind a chair leg, under the coffee table, next to the plant stand. Walk back to his side, pause, and say “Find it!” encouraging him to go get the treat. Repeat a half-dozen times.
4. Again, have your dog sit and wait. This time hide several treats in easy places while he’s watching. Return to his side, pause, and say “Find it!” Be sure not to help him out if he doesn’t find them right away.
You can repeat the “find it” cue, and indicate the general area, but don’t show him where it is; you want him to have to work to find it.
5. Hide the treats in harder and harder places so he really has to look for them: surfaces off the ground; underneath things; and in containers he can easily open.
6. Finally, put him in another room while you hide treats. Bring him back into the room and tell him to “Find it!” and enjoy watching him work his powerful nose to find the goodies. Once you’ve taught him this step of the game you can use it to exercise him by hiding treats in safe places all over the house, and then telling him to “Find it!” Nose work is surprisingly tiring.
If you prefer something less challenging, just go back to Step 1 and feed your dog his entire meal by tossing pieces or kibble from one side to the other, farther and farther, with a “Find it!” each time. He’ll get a bunch of exercise just chasing after his dinner!
Hide And Seek
This is a fun variation of the “Find it” game. Have your dog sit and wait (or have someone hold him) while you go hide yourself in another room of the house. When you’re hidden, call your dog’s name and say “Find me!” Make it easy at first so he can find you quickly and succeed. Reinforce him with whatever he loves best – treats, a game of “tug,” petting and praise, a tossed ball – or a combination of these. Then hide again. As he learns the game, make your hiding places harder and harder, so he has to really search. A trainer friend tells me she has hidden in bathtubs and closets, under beds, and even inside a cedar chest.
Manners Minder
If you are into higher-tech exercise, use a treat dispenser called the Manners Minder that spits out treats when you push a button on the remote control. A Maryland trainer friend, Elizabeth Adamec of Sweet Wag Dog Training, shared her exercise secret with me for her high-energy adolescent Golden Retriever, Truman. This one is especially useful if you don’t feel like exercising along with your canine pal or can’t, due to physical restrictions of your own:
Teach your dog to use the Manners Minder, by showing him several times that when he hears the beep, a treats fall out of the machine. You can use his own dog food, if he really likes his food.
1. Set the machine a few feet away and have your dog sit next to you. Push the button, and let him go eat the treats. Repeat several times, encouraging him, if necessary, to go get the treats when he hears the beep.
2. Put the machine across the room, and have your dog sit next to you. Push the button, and watch him run over and eat the treats. If he’s not doing this with great enthusiasm, repeat Steps 1 and 2 several more times with higher value treats, until he really gets excited about the treats when he hears the beep.
3. Set the machine in the next room, and repeat the exercise several times. Call him back to you each time, so he runs to the Manners Minder when he hears the beep, eats the treat, and runs back to you to wait for the next beep. Gradually move the treat dispenser into rooms farther and farther away from you, until your dog has to run all the way across the house, or even upstairs, when he hears the beep. Now you can sit back with the TV remote in one hand, your dog’s remote in the other, and enjoy your favorite show while canine pal gets exercise and dinner, all at the same time.
Watch a video of the Manners Minder in action here.
There are tons of other ways to provide your dog with indoor exercise. Play tug. Teach him to bowl. Teach him to catch, then repeatedly toss him his ball 10 feet away and have him bring it back to you. Some trainers use treadmills and canine exercise wheels to exercise their dogs. (These must be carefully trained and supervised.) Get creative. Get busy. Have fun. Let the indoor games begin.
How to Calm Your Dog with Positive-Reinforcement Training
Successful positive training, especially for hyper dogs, relies on the appropriate use of management tools to prevent the dog from practicing – and being reinforced for – undesirable behaviors. In between his many daily exercise and training sessions, Squid is either parked in an exercise pen in the barn tack room (with plenty of bathroom breaks outside), or in an outdoor kennel off the side of the training center.
Here are examples of when to use various management tools for your wild child dog:
Crates and Pens. Use crates and exercise pens when you can’t directly supervise his energy to consistently reinforce appropriate behaviors and prevent reinforcement for inappropriate ones. The best times for the appropriate use of crates and exercise pens include:
When you can provide adequate exercise and social time in addition to his time in the crate or pen.
When your dog has been properly introduced to the crate or pen and accepts it as a good place to be. Note: Dogs who suffer from isolation or separation distress or anxiety often do not crate or pen well.
When you know you’ll be home in a reasonable period of time so you don’t force your dog to soil his den – no longer than one hour more than your pup’s age in months, no more than an outside maximum of eight to nine hours for adult dogs.
Leashes and Tethers. Leashes and tethers are useful for the “umbilical cord” technique of preventing your wild child from being reinforced for unwanted behaviors. With your dog near or attached to you, you can provide constant supervision. Also, with your dog tethered to your side, you should have many opportunities to reinforce him for appropriate behavior.
The leash can be hooked to waist belts that are designed for that purpose, or clipped to your belt or belt-loop with a carabineer. Your hyper dog can’t zoom around the house if he’s glued to your side.
If inappropriate mouthing behavior is included in his high-energy repertoire, however, this may not be the best choice. Tethers are better for keeping this dog in view, with easy access for reinforcement of calm behavior, while keeping his teeth from your clothing or skin. Appropriate situations for the use of leashes and tethers include:
For dogs who get into trouble when they are unsupervised.
When your activities don’t preclude having a dog connected to you – okay for working on the computer; not okay for working out.
When you want to keep your dog near but not directly connected to you, to teach good manners and/or prevent inappropriate behaviors.
Baby Gates and Doors. Baby gates and doors prevent your dog’s access to vulnerable areas when he’s in wild child mode. A baby gate across the nursery door keeps him safely on the other side while you’re changing diapers, but still lets him be part of the “baby experience.” Not to worry if the older kids left their stuffed toys strewn across the bedroom floor; just close the bedroom door when your dog is in a “grab toy and run” mood. The most appropriate uses of baby gates and doors include:
To prevent your dog’s temporary access to areas during activities you don’t want him to participate in.
To prevent your dog’s access to areas when you can’t supervise closely enough, to prevent inappropriate behaviors such as counter surfing or getting on forbidden furniture.
5 Training Exercises for Your Hyperactive Dog
The final element of your hyper dog behavior modification program is training. The more training you do the easier it is to communicate with your dog. The better he understands you, the more easily he can follow your instructions and requests. With a high-energy dog, in addition to basic good manners training, invest a lot of training time in impulse-control behaviors.
Click When Your Dog is Calm
Start by simply clicking your dog for calm behavior, beginning with clicks and treats for any pause in the action. One challenge with a high-energy dog is that the instant you try to praise or reward, he’s bouncing off the walls again. With the clicker, an instant of calm elicits a “click” during the calm behavior. Even if the delivery of the treat causes excitement, your dog still understands it was calm that caused the click-and-treat to happen. An added advantage of the clicker: when they hear the click, most dogs pause in anticipation of the coming morsel, drawing out the brief period of relatively calm behavior even longer.
The goal of clicker training is to get your dog to understand that he can make the click happen by offering certain behaviors – in this case, calm. At first you won’t get long, leisurely stretches of calm behavior to click. Begin by giving your dog a click and treat just because all four feet are on the floor at the same instant. Be quick! You want him to understand the behavior he got rewarded for was pausing with all four feet on the floor, so the click needs to happen the instant all four feet are down. If you click late, you may reinforce him for bouncing around – the exact opposite of what you want!
If your timing is good and you click for four-on-the-floor several times in a row he’ll start to stand still deliberately to make the clicker go off. This is one of the most exciting moments in dog training -when your dog realizes he can control the clicker. Your clicker is now a powerful tool; you can reinforce any behavior you want, any time it happens, and your dog will quickly start repeating that behavior for you.
How does “pausing briefly on all four feet” translate into calm? Very gradually. You will “shape” the pause into longer periods of stillness, by extending the time, in milliseconds at first, that he stands still before you click and treat. As he gets better at being calm for longer periods, be sure to reinforce randomly – sometimes for shorter pauses, sometimes longer. Do the same thing with “sit” and “down.” Down is my favorite calm position: the very act of lying down evokes relaxation.
Do several short training sessions every day. You’ll have the most success if you practice “clicking for calm” right after one of your dog’s exercise sessions when he’s tired anyway. When he understands that “calm” is a very rewardable behavior, it will work even when he has more energy.
When your dog will remain still for several seconds at a time, add the verbal cue of your choice, like “Chill out,” that will eventually cue him into calmness. Over time you can phase out the click and treat for calm behavior and use other rewards such as calm praise, a gentle massage, or an invitation to lie quietly next to you on the sofa.
“Sit” As Default Behavior
“Sit” is one of the first behaviors we teach. Even after the dog knows it well we reinforce “sit” so heavily that it becomes his “default behavior” – what he does when he doesn’t know what else to do. Teach your dog to sit by holding a treat at the end of his nose and moving it slowly back a few inches, clicking and treating when his bottom touches ground.
Alternatively, shape it by clicking and treating for slightly lowered hind end until touchdown, and/or click for offered sits. Then shape longer sits. If he already knows sit, start reinforcing it every time he does it until he sits for anything and nothing. When you have installed “sit” as his default, things like the “Wait” exercises (below) and “Go wild and freeze” (See “More Steps to a Calm Dog“) happen very easily.
Wait
“Wait” is especially useful for dogs who are short on impulse control. I teach it using food bowls and doorways. “Wait” then easily generalizes to other situations. Learn how to teach “wait” and “stay” here.
Wait for Food
With your dog sitting at your side, tell him to “Wait.” Hold his bowl (with food in it, topped with tasty treats) chest-high, then move it toward the floor 4 to 6 inches. If your dog stays sitting, click and feed him a treat from the bowl as you raise it back up to your chest. If your dog gets up, say “Oops!” and ask him to sit again. If he gets up several times in a row, you’re asking for too much too soon; lower the bowl in smaller increments.
If he remains sitting, lower the bowl 4 to 6 inches again, and click and treat for his continued sitting. Repeat several times until he consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl. Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with succeeding repetitions until you can place it on the floor without your dog getting up. Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell him to eat. After he’s had a few bites, lift the bowl up and try again. Repeat these steps until you can easily place the bowl on the floor and he doesn’t move until you give him permission.
Caution: If your dog guards resources such as his food bowl, consult with a qualified positive behavior professional before trying this exercise.
Wait at the Door
With your dog sitting at your side, tell him to “wait.” Reach for the doorknob. If he doesn’t move, click and treat. Repeat this step several times. Then jiggle the doorknob. Click and reward him for not moving. Repeat this step several times. Slowly open the door a crack. Again, click and treat if he doesn’t move, and repeat. Gradually open the door farther, an inch or two at a time. Do several repetitions at each step, with clicks and treats each time. Read more about door darters here.
Eventually you’ll walk all the way through the door, stop, and face your dog, without having him move. Wait a few seconds, click, then return and give him a tasty treat. Of course, occasionally you’ll actually give him permission to go out the door!
Squid does a variation of “Wait at the door” in his pen and kennel. With the dog on the inside and human on the outside, I reach for the latch. If he jumps up, I pull my hand away. If he sits, I continue with the gate-opening process. Each time he jumps up, the process stops. If he exercises self-control the gate opens and he earns his freedom.
A Happy Future
Using a combination of exercise, training, and management, I am wildly optimistic that I can help Squid chill out, pass his shelter assessment, and find his forever home. If, after reading all this you still think your dog suffers from clinical hyperactivity or ADHD, then it’s time to visit a qualified behavior professional for help. More likely though, using the same combination of exercise, training, and management, perhaps with a sprinkling of additional tools, you can ensure your own dog’s calm and happy future in your family.
Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of many books on positive training, including her newest, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance at a First-Class Life.
Whole Dog Journal readers have learned how to identify the best commercial foods when they shop for their dog’s diet. But whether you feed dry kibble or canned food, even the best commercial diets can be improved with the addition of appropriate fresh foods. We know that when it comes to enhancing an already complete and balanced diet, real foods are often better than supplements.
Keep the following things in mind when adding fresh foods to your dog’s diet. Decrease the amount of commercial food your dog gets so that you don’t increase the total number of calories you feed your dog, which can lead to unhealthy weight gain. Limit the amount of fresh food you add to about 25 percent of total calories consumed; if you want to feed more than that, you need to be careful to feed an appropriate variety of foods in order to keep the diet complete and balanced.
Here are some of the best foods you can add to your dog’s diet:
1. Eggs
Few foods can beat the nutritional impact of eggs, with their combination of high-quality protein and fat along with a wide variety of vitamins and minerals. Eggs are inexpensive and easy to feed, too. Egg whites are more easily digested when cooked, while yolks retain more of their nutritional value if fed raw. Most dogs have no trouble with bacteria in raw eggs, but it’s fine to feed soft-cooked, hard-cooked, or scrambled eggs.
A large egg provides about 70 calories; this amount is fine for medium-sized and larger dogs, but smaller dogs would do better with half an egg daily or one egg every other day, with meals reduced proportionately.
Do not include the shell when you feed eggs, as the shells contain far more calcium than your dog needs. Too much calcium can be harmful to large-breed puppies and also bind other minerals, making them less available to your dog.
A natural source of probiotics, yogurt is another food that is inexpensive and easy to feed. Stick to low-fat or nonfat plain yogurt, as your dog doesn’t need the sugar provided in the flavored varieties.
The probiotics (beneficial bacteria) in yogurt provide benefits for all dogs but are especially good for dogs with digestive problems. Use yogurt with live and active cultures. Varieties that contain more than just Lactobacillus acidophilus may provide additional benefits to the digestive tract.
Low-fat yogurt has less than 20 calories per ounce, so even small dogs can enjoy a spoonful without concern about reducing food portions.
3. Sardines
Fish supply omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA which are good for the skin and coat. In addition, they help regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation, and so can be helpful for dogs with allergies, arthritis, and autoimmune disease. DHA is also good for brain health, which can benefit both puppies and senior dogs.
One small canned sardine provides about 25 calories and 175 mg omega-3 fatty acids, a good amount for a small dog (20 pounds or less). Give larger dogs proportionately more. Use sardines packed in water (not oil). Feed soon after opening so the fatty acids are still fresh.
Other canned fish options, especially for larger dogs, include jack mackerel and pink salmon.
Berries, especially blueberries, are packed with antioxidants. Other good fruits to include in your dog’s diet are bananas, apples, and melon; some dogs even like citrus. Don’t feed the pits, and avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure when eaten in large quantities.
Leafy green veggies are a much better choice for your dog’s diet than starchy foods such as grains and potatoes. Vegetables are more nutritious when fed cooked, but raw veggies, such as carrots, zucchini slices, and even frozen peas, make great low-calorie snacks. Non-starchy vegetables can also be included in your dog’s diet to increase the quantity you feed without adding significant calories. Cruciferous veggies, such as broccoli, are especially nutritious, but watch out: too much can cause gas.
I know that pet food companies and often veterinarians discourage giving leftovers to dogs, but as long as you stick to healthy foods and limit portions, there is no harm in sharing your meals with your dogs. Feed the same foods you eat yourself, such as meat and vegetables, not fatty scraps that lead to weight gain and have little nutritional value. Keep amounts small, or reduce meal size to accommodate the extra calories.
It’s easy to overdo leftovers, particularly with small dogs; I learned this the hard way when my 11-pound Norwich Terrier, Ella, began gaining weight. Extra calories add up fast with our little guys, so keep portions small!
How well do you really know your dog? Like most trainers and competitors, Nancy Tanner of Bozeman, Montana, assumed she knew hers inside out – until some whales and their trainers taught her an important lesson. You too can adopt the simple technique she learned at a marine mammal park to improve canine interactions at all levels.
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Tanner’s path of discovery began five years ago at Sea World in San Diego, California, where she took a behind-the-scenes tour.
“I chose ‘Lunch with the Orca Trainers,’ and it changed my whole approach to training,” she says. “In addition to enjoying great food, I got to watch the whales and ask questions. Sea World’s training program is impressive, but what they require from their trainers in knowledge, observation, and applied skills is even more so. I came away realizing that I might not know my dogs as well as I thought.”
What caught Tanner’s attention was the whales’ “free-time pool.” In this large, safe, comfortable environment, whales do whatever they like. Sometimes the pool is occupied by a single whale and sometimes by two or more. Trainers are always present but they never initiate activity. They simply watch and wait.
Occasionally the trainers add interactive objects such as beach balls, chunks of ice, or a bird kite on a tall pole. If a whale jumps for the kite the way orcas in the wild leap at low-flying birds, the trainer can acknowledge this with a whistle, but that is all. Shaping and luring are not allowed. If the whale initiates play, the trainer plays the whale’s game and does whatever that particular whale likes best, such as scratching his tongue, pouring water into his mouth, or throwing ice balls into his mouth. There are no food rewards. The free-time pool is used to build the trainer/animal bond but the two interact only if the whale wants to. The pool is never used for active training.
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Tanner, who runs workshops and competes with her own dogs in agility and canine freestyle, thought for weeks about what free-time insights might contribute to her dog training. She started practicing what she calls “Observation Without Direction.”
“I wanted to come into my dogs’ world and learn by following their lead, not mine,” she says. “So I started to plan a free time routine by replicating, as much as possible, the whales’ free-time pool.”
This was at first a challenge because most of the areas she and her dogs visited were associated in some way with training. “I realized that my house, yard, and training field wouldn’t work for this project at all,” she says, “and what I had thought of as ‘free time’ while hiking actually involved working with my dogs the whole time.”
Tanner decided to look for an area she had never used for training. “It had to have boundaries for safety,” she says, “so that I would never have to call or correct them. No other dogs could be present except my own and no other people unless they were family. There could also not be any large distractions that would reward the dogs in a big way. Small self-rewards would be fine. In addition to being safe and free from distractions, it had to be a dog-friendly environment.”
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She chose a trail that has streams and trees with a steep drop on one side, a steep hill on the other, and a large meadow at the end.
“We go once or twice a week,” says Tanner. “I have no rules when we get out on this specific remote trail. The dogs can sniff, run, sit, follow, or do whatever they like. It’s up to them. I don’t bring food or toys. If they pick up a stick and initiate a game with me, I play fetch with the stick. If they play their I-am-going-to-lie-down-and-stalk-you hide-and-seek game, I will pop behind a tree and play. I initiate nothing. This free time is on their terms. We usually go for half an hour to two hours, depending on my day.”
What The Dogs Did
What did Tanner’s dogs show her, and how has Observation Without Direction changed their training?
“There is trust and relationship on both ends now,” she says. “When my dogs and I work, they are way more engaged. Our relationship isn’t just about what I want to do and the dogs doing learned behaviors. It’s about them taking part in my interests and me taking part in theirs. It is important to note that free time is not putting a dog in the backyard and then going inside to cook dinner. The trainer is working hard by observing and being attentive and intentional. There is a simple bit of magic to watching dogs and really being observant.”
Tanner’s dogs are very different from each other, and now their differences define her approach to training.
“Story is an amazing dog,” she says of her six-year-old Border Collie. “Honest and balanced is the best way to describe him. He enjoys dogs, people, work, play, and eating. He is a dog’s dog. What free time showed me was that he is inventive and all about ‘the game.’ He is always thinking up new games and keeping things light and fun. If he had a motto it would be, ‘Walk lightly and carry a big stick; fetch is way more fun that way.’”
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While Story has always been a willing partner, Tanner never felt that she was tapping into all of him. “He was almost too polite,” she says. “Through free time I observed that he liked to keep the party going. He was always inventing new games with either me or the other dogs. His self-reward is sharing his enthusiasm for games and including those around him. I have never observed him playing a game by himself. He always wants to include others. This was very cool for me as I knew how I could use this in training. Lightbulb!”
Tanner turned Story’s training into a big game, and this approach has made them partners in competition and in life. “There is no leader or owner. We come at it together. Whether it is freestyle, agility, hiking, or fun tricks, his pay-off is the interaction of the game. It also holds me accountable for being there 100 percent when I step out with him. There is no half way in anything we do together.”
Ocean, an eight-year-old Border Collie/Australian Shepherd, was a shy puppy. “At seven weeks,” says Tanner, “she was spooky and cautious. I worked for years building her confidence slowly but consistently through tricks, play with a purpose, agility, freestyle, and herding. Dog sports are where she shines because it is all work. Working became her safe place.
“Ocean is an amazing competition dog and loves to learn new things, but what I discovered through free time is that she did not have confidence outside of working. She did not want to explore or interact with the environment without my direction and was unsure of making choices on her own. It took her a year or two to leave me during free time, but once she started trying new things (digging, rolling in scat, exploring streams) all on her own, I saw another layer to my dog and watched her confidence grow. She is learning that choices are good, exploring can be wonderful, and if she needs to check in, I am always there.”
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The first time Ocean felt comfortable enough to walk away from Tanner, she found elk scat and enjoyed herself immensely. She had never before shown any interest in scat, but after that experience, she sat taller and walked with all four paws solidly on the ground.
“This was a breakthrough for us,” says Tanner. “To this day she rolls in elk, deer, and coyote scat with gusto, and you cannot diminish her enthusiasm afterwards. While she will always have some cautiousness, she has more balance than ever before. In agility I let her decide whether she wants me close or needs more distance. In freestyle, if she renegotiates the path, we go with it. She is amazing and one of the most fun dogs to work with!”
Franny, an 11-year-old mixed breed, had low motivation for training and was never interested in human-directed activity. “Nothing got her involved,” says Tanner. “Tricks, agility, play with a purpose, fetch, tug, none of this was of interest to her, even in small spurts. She would patiently watch me go through my motions and slowly walk away. She showed zero interest even when I tried to hand her a steak.”
During free time, Tanner observed that Franny had stealth hunting skills, that her prey drive was alive and well, and her motivation was high. “She was focused and tenacious, so I brought this into her training. I would ask her for one small thing, maybe come to me in the house, and then say YES! and throw a meatball across the room. The reward of orienting, stalking, chasing, catching, and eating the meatball made a powerful impact on our training and relationship. I found a way to reach her through what she found highly rewarding. She is almost 12 now and still enjoys learning new things. I adore working with her.”
$eeker, a three-year-old Border Collie, has always lacked dog social skills and is more interested in people.
“In free time,” says Tanner, “I learned that $eeker is a mimic, and this caught me totally by surprise. He doesn’t just follow the lead of my other dogs, he copies what they are doing. I found this interesting because he lacks the ability to read canine social cues, so it was almost as if he was ‘trying’ through imitating. I noticed that if Ocean rolled in something, he did it next to her. If Story runs circles, he runs circles, too. If Franny was licking her paws, he would lick his paws, too. If Ocean marked, he would mark.
“I started bringing one of my other dogs when working with $eeker. For example, if I was chaining a complicated sequence, I would work with Ocean and then $eeker, and flip back and forth. He caught on faster this way than if I worked him by himself.”
Putting the Plan Into Action
As soon as she felt confident describing Observation Without Direction and the benefits of free-time training, Nancy Tanner began sharing her insights in workshops, online forums, and seminars. It didn’t take long for the technique to change canine lives.
Katie Tracanna lives in Dennis, Massachusetts, with six dogs. One of them, a six-year-old Shepherd/Border Collie named Wiley Coyote, competes with her in musical freestyle, trains for rally competition, makes therapy dog visits, and is an enthusiastic running partner.
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After she discovered Tanner’s ideas in an online workshop, Tracanna found a perfect free-time location at the beach. “You have to walk a ways to get to the spot,” she says, “but when you do, you’re surrounded by sea grass, sand, and the ocean. It’s a perfect place for free time with Wiley because I can see for a mile in all directions, so I don’t have to worry about anyone approaching when I want to just let him ‘be.’ And that’s what we do when we reach this spot. Wiley makes the rules. He can engage with me, swim, run the beach, and basically do whatever he wants for as long as we’re out there.
“Usually, he entertains himself for a few minutes and then starts engaging me in some sort of game, which could be chase, digging in the sand where I’m sitting, running around in a large circle, or a ‘bash brothers’ game where he likes to slam into me like a wrestler. We’ve modified these games to include in our training sessions as rewards, and they’ve helped build our bond because there are no limitations. It’s just us being in the moment together, cueing off each other and having fun.”
In Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada, retired dog judge Sue Ailsby has shared her life with Chihuahuas, Miniature Schnauzers, MinPins, Australian Cattle Dogs, Portuguese Water Dogs, and 17 generations of Giant Schnauzers. A trainer and competitor, her main interests are research, learning, teaching, bonding, and refining skills in service dog training, conformation, obedience, rally, agility, sled racing, scent hurdle racing, tracking, nose work, treiball, herding, carting, duck hunting, and tracking.
“I was taught as a child that the dog is my enemy,” she says, “and both his mind and body must be mastered. When I realized that the dog should be, at worst, a junior partner, it changed everything. Having a friend doesn’t mean imposing my own opinions on that friend, always doing what I want to do. If you’re going to be friends, you have to honor the other person’s opinions and let her choose. It’s the same with dogs. Giving the dog respected downtime hugely increases the bond and the dog’s desire and willingness to work for and with me.”
When she first read Tanner’s comments about the free-time pool, where the whales can do whatever they want and nothing is required of them, Ailsby says the idea hit her over the head like a sledgehammer.
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“It’s true that Scuba and Stitch, my Portuguese Water Dogs, can usually choose to interact with me, but I don’t usually choose to reciprocate. My dogs know that when I’m working on the computer, they might get a momentary tug or a ball-toss out of me, but after that I give them the ‘leave me alone, I’m working’ hand signal. When I’m talking on the phone, I’ll probably pet them, but not tug or toss. When I’m doing chores, they follow me around and get in my way, but all I’m doing with them is getting them out of my way without kicking them in the head. When I’m lying down, they can jump on the bed, but they have to lie down.
“I realized that I have no trouble being ‘present’ when training – training makes the whole rest of the world go away – but there was no time when I was in the dog’s world. That night Stitch and I went to the guest room in the basement to see what she would like to say to me when I’m actually listening.”
Now, says Ailsby, the dogs have faith that when they speak, she will listen. “This makes all training, as well as living with the dogs, easier because the dogs no longer think or behave as if they need to ‘shout’ at me to have me hear them. I recommend Observation Without Direction and free-time sessions to everyone who wants better, closer relationships with their dogs.”
Freelance writer CJ Puotinen lives in Montana, where she enjoys observing Chloe (her Labrador Retriever) and Seamus (her husband’s Cairn Terrier) in the great outdoors. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.
I have always run titers on my dogs before vaccinating and my vet provided individual doses when required. This year was different. The office manager called and said their practice could no longer provide individual vaccines, as in the past. I vaccinate only for parvo, distemper when titers are low, and rabies. I was quite upset because one of my dogs needed only distemper and my other dog’s titers were good. I posed the question, “Why offer titers, if you are not able to provide individual vaccines? Big silence! Well, I know the answer. The titers are extremely expensive, $200 for parvo and distemper, times two (for two dogs!). It’s great income for the vets!
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I have called all the holistic veterinarians in my area; all of them have only bundled vaccinations. I have surfed the web to find individual vaccines to purchase without luck. This is a huge dilemma and an issue I have been frustrated by for years. Vet students are not taught in school that too many vaccinations assault the dog’s immune system time and time again. Veterinarians turn the other cheek. What is most disturbing and unethical is the vets will happily accept the fee for the titers, but as in my case, don’t provide individual vaccinations when indicated.
I would surely appreciate any resources where I may acquire individual parvo and distemper vaccines.
Thank you for your thoughtful concern regarding this frustrating topic. I have been subscribing to WDJ for years and can’t thank you enough for being the “pioneers” of healthy dog care. Your annual dry and canned food survey is invaluable, as are so many topics each month. I hope you have the resources to help me and my dogs. Until I can find individual vaccinations, I will forgo the vaccines. One of my dogs is 9 and the other 3 years. -(Name withheld by request)
We asked Dr. Jean Dodds for help on this one. A respected expert on veterinary immunology, she also is the founder of Hemopet, a nonprofit blood bank and laboratory. She wrote:
There is only one source available: The Schering-Plough Galaxy-D (the old Fromm-D vaccine), available from many online veterinary supply stores. By the way, vaccine titers actually cost between $40-60, not $200. Those clinics quoting the much higher price typically do so because they aren’t familiar with the “going rate” and assume that they’re costly – as a sort of dissuasion. Here at Hemopet (hemopet.org) we charge $42 for the paired distemper + parvo vaccine titers. See our “Test Request Form” and price list on the website.
We sent this information to our reader, and she responded:
I contacted a few online vet supply catalogs, and all of them offer parvo as an individual vaccine, but the distemper is paired with adenovirus vaccine, which I think is unnecessary.
We asked Dr. Dodds to weigh in on the distemper/adenovirus vaccine. She responded:
I wouldn’t prefer this combo, especially when there have been no clinical cases of infectious canine hepatitis in North America for at least 12 years.
Now we were really curious. We called Schering-Plough and asked about the Galaxy-D – and was told that the company had discontinued its production in January. So dog owners seemed to have lost their only option for giving the distemper vaccine alone. (And ferret owners have lost their only source of distemper vaccine for ferrets; the Galaxy-D was reportedly the only effective distemper vaccine for that species.) Dr. Dodds’ final comment and advice?
Darn it! I’d give a distemper/adenovirus Recombitek vaccine – provided that the distemper titer result really is low. This industry sure isn’t helpful for consumers needs – but, of course, sales volume is what determines what we can get.
Letters to the editor can be sent to:
WDJ Editorial Office 1655 Robinson Street Oroville, CA 95965 or emailed to WDJEditor@gmail.com
I was in my local shelter one day when a couple brought in two intact male bully-breed dogs. Both dogs were white, which made it easy to see how filthy they were – and to see their startling wounds. The larger, overweight dog had what may have started as a sunburn and developed into a dermatological condition. But the younger, smaller dog had truly ghastly wounds on his hind legs; it looked as if he had been tied up (or even hung) by ropes around his hind legs. Something had cut into his flesh all the way around each hind leg – but the wounds were not fresh. The wounds were partly scabbed, partly infected and raw, and the dog’s hair bore the traces of a purple over-the-counter “wound” spray. The legs were also swollen and the dog was limping on both legs.
I was discussing another matter with one of the shelter employees, and heard just bits of the conversation between the dogs’ owners and the counter staff. I heard the male owner say, “We were out of town for a day and he got caught in wire; he was caught when we got back.” My blood boiled; those wounds were neither fresh nor caused by a dog caught in wire.
Later, after the dogs were admitted to the shelter, I asked the front counter staff member about the dogs. She said that a county animal control officer received a tip about the dogs, investigated, and told the owners if they did not seek immediate veterinary attention, she was going to charge them with animal cruelty and neglect – or they could surrender the dogs. They said they couldn’t afford to treat the dogs, so they were surrendering them.
I borrowed a staffer’s camera so I could take pictures of the dogs. They kept trying to lick me through the cage bars, making it hard to get a good picture. With a kennel worker nearby to help me if need be, I entered the kennel – and both dogs gently bowled me over as they tried getting in my lap for petting and kisses. They were total sweethearts – which made me feel even worse for how poorly they had been treated.
Shelter workers see this again and again. Some of the sweetest, most patient, and overtly loving dogs come in with coats that are matted so severely, it’s as it they are wearing a suit of armor, or their skin full of birdshot pellets, or numerous broken bones.
Why is it that some of the nicest dogs are so badly treated by people? And how do they manage to stay friendly after such abuse and neglect?
Maybe this has happened to you: You’re reading or watching TV or at your computer, and your dog is lying on the carpet near you. You’re absorbed in what you are doing, but all of a sudden, you realize that your dog is licking or chewing himself, or scratching his ear with a hind paw. “Hey!” you say to your dog. “Stop that!” Your dog stops, looks at you, and wags his tail. You go back to doing what you were doing – and a few minutes later, you hear the tell-tale sounds of licking or chewing or scratching again.
Every dog does a certain amount of self-grooming to keep himself clean – and every dog owner should be aware of how much is normal, and how much is too much, because “too much” is often the first indication that a dog is having an allergy attack.
The most common sign of allergy in the dog is itching. When humans have an allergy attack, the most common symptoms are itchy, teary eyes; a runny nose; sneezing; and nasal congestion.
In contrast, allergic dogs itch all over. And so they scratch, chew, and lick themselves, trying to relieve that unrelenting itching sensation in their skin or paws or ears. The itch might keep them up at night (which might affect your own sleep, if their beds are in the same room as yours), make them cranky and out of sorts, and cause them to damage their skin.
In the throes of an acute allergy attack, dogs can lick, chew, or scratch a hole in themselves within just a few minutes of intense activity, allowing bacteria to gain access to several layers of skin and tissue and triggering a dandy infection. The itching in their paws may cause them to lick until sores develop between their toes or their paw pads develop ulcers. And the itching sensation in their ears can lead them to claw at their ears enough to damage and inflame the tissue, leading to infection and – if they shake their heads violently – cause blood vessels to burst in their ear flaps, leading to an excruciatingly painful, swollen ear. Untreated, ear hematomas (as they are called) can lead to tissue death and cause permanent disfigurement of the ear.
Over a lifetime, chronic allergies can leave dogs depleted and irritable, with low-level infections constantly breaking out on their skin, feet, and in their ears; worn front teeth (from chewing themselves); and smelly, sparse coats that neither protect them well from the elements nor invite much petting and affection from their owners. Chronic allergies can also deplete an owner’s time and financial resources – especially if the owner fails to take the most effective path to helping her dog.
Unfortunately, most dog owners rely solely on their veterinarians to take care of the problem with a shot or a prescription or a special food; they are unaware that they are in the best position to help their dog in a significant way. While veterinary diagnostic and treatment skills will be important in the battle, it’s the owner’s dedication to his dog, acute observation skills, and meticulous home care that will ultimately win the war against allergies.
Before discussing what can be done about allergies, let’s make sure you’re clear about what canine allergies are, and what they are not.
Canine Allergy Basics
In the simplest terms, allergy is the result of an immune system gone awry. When it’s functioning as it should, the immune system patrols the body, with various agents checking the identification (as it were) of every molecule in the body. It allows the body’s own molecules and harmless foreign substances to go about their business, but detects, recognizes, and attacks potentially harmful agents such as viruses and pathogenic bacteria.
When a dog develops an allergy, the immune system becomes hypersensitive and malfunctions. It may mistake benign agents (such as pollen or nutritious food) for harmful ones and sound the alarm, calling in all the body’s defenses in a misguided, one-sided battle that ultimately harms the body’s tissues or disrupts the body’s usual tasks. Alternately, the immune system may fail to recognize normal agents of the body itself, and start a biochemical war against those agents.
The three most common types of canine allergy are, in order of prevalence:
1. Flea bite hypersensitivity (known informally as “flea allergy”)
2.Atopy (also known as atopic disease or atopic dermatitis)
3. Food hypersensitivity (also called “food allergy”)
Let’s take a closer look at these three most common canine allergies.
Flea Bite Hypersensitivity
Have you ever been bitten by a flea? If so, you know how irritating the bites can be. The flea injects its saliva into its bite during feeding to prevent clotting of its host’s blood. The flea’s saliva is what some dogs are allergic to – but even nonallergic dogs suffer skin irritation from flea saliva.
The site of a flea bite often develops a raised, red, itchy papule in allergic and nonallergic animals alike. The difference is, in a nonallergic animal, the number of papules and the amount of itching will be roughly congruent with the number of bites the dog received. (If a nonallergic dog was bitten just once or twice, he will experience itching and a bump on the skin in just those sites.)
Contrast this with an allergic dog, who may exhibit a severe reaction to just one or two flea bites, with generalized dermatitis and oozing papules emerging over his entire body. If you can’t find any fleas on your dog, or found just one flea after 10 minutes of using a flea comb on him, and yet he’s scratching himself raw all over, he’s very likely allergic to flea bites.
Like all allergies, flea bite hypersensitivity is a heritable trait; dogs from families with lots of allergies have a predisposition to develop allergies, too. It’s been estimated that about 40 percent of all dogs are hypersensitive to flea bites. In areas with cold winter temperatures and a resulting flea-free season, dogs who are allergic to flea bites will enjoy an itch-free period; in warmer climates, where fleas are a year-round problem, the flea-allergic dog’s suffering will be year-round as well.
Flea-bite hypersensitivity usually gets worse throughout the dog’s life. Each year, the signs of the allergy will start earlier and last longer in the “flea season,” and the itching will be more severe.
Atopy
Atopic disease (AD) in dogs is roughly analogous to hayfever in humans – except that instead of a runny nose and sneezing, a dog with this allergy will itch. Dogs with AD may be allergic to pollen, mold spores, dust, dust mite droppings, and other common environmental antigens. Dogs may be exposed to these allergens through breathing them in (inhalant transmission) or through transcutaneous exposure (through the skin). Estimates vary, but it’s generally accepted that 10 to 15 percent of all dogs have AD.
Dogs of any breed can suffer from atopy, but because the predisposition to the condition is heritable, the allergy is observed very commonly in dogs of certain breeds.
All dogs (like all humans) will experience an occasional itch. But dogs with AD will stop in the middle of eating or playing in order to scratch or chew themselves; it will be difficult to interrupt them or prevent them from scratching or chewing intently. The most common sites that atopic dogs focus on are the feet (which are licked or chewed); face (which they will rub against carpet or furniture); and ventral areas (tummy and groin are licked; “armpits” are scratched).
About 80 percent of atopic dogs also display flea bite hypersensitivity.
Food Hypersensitivity
A true allergy to foods is less common than many dog owners believe. Some experts estimate the prevalence of food allergy in dogs at 1 to 5 percent; other sources suggest a figure as high as 10 percent. However, almost half (43 percent, according to one study) of dogs who suffer from food allergy also exhibit other hypersensitivities, complicating the diagnostic picture.
Clinical signs of food allergy are extremely variable. The skin, gastrointestinal tract, respiratory tract, central nervous system, and any combination of these may be affected; the skin, however, is most frequently involved. Nonseasonal, generalized itchiness (pruritus) is the most common sign, with a distribution of itchiness on the dog’s body that is indistinguishable from that of atopy. About 10 to 15 percent of food-allergic dogs with dermatologic symptoms also suffer from gastrointestinal symptoms, including diarrhea, vomiting, gassiness, and cramping.
Food hypersensitivity can begin at any age, even late in a dog’s life. Allergies that start before a puppy is six months old are most likely caused by food.
Remember, “food allergy” and “food hypersensitivity” are the same thing; by definition, this condition is characterized by an abnormal immunological response to food. Don’t confuse those terms with “food intolerance,” which is an abnormal but non-immunological response to some foods. Dogs with food intolerance are far more likely to suffer digestive problems, such as vomiting, diarrhea, and gas.
Flea bites, environmental allergens, and food account for the vast majority of cases of canine allergy. But dogs can be hypersensitive to all sorts of other things, including the bites of flies, mosquitoes, ticks, and mites; drugs, medications, and nutritional supplements; various fungal and yeast species; internal parasites (such as ascarids, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms, and heartworms); and even their own sex hormones (in intact animals).
Other Conditions That Can Cause Your Dog’s Itching
Allergies are not the only reason that dogs itch. In fact, to properly diagnose hypersensitivity, one of the first things a veterinarian needs to do is to rule out other potential causes of itching. “Allergies are a diagnosis of exclusion,” says Donna Spector, DVM, DACVIM, an internal medicine specialist with a consulting practice in Deerfield, Illinois. A dog’s medical history can sometimes help his vet identify the reason for the dog’s itching, but in other cases, the history may be lacking (such as with a shelter dog).
In other cases, a good history may exist, but the picture it presents is muddled. Complicating the diagnostic task is the fact that some causes of itching may actually be a secondary effect of the dog’s allergy. For example, a dog may be itchy because he has a yeast infection (an overgrowth of an organism commonly found on even healthy dogs) – or he may have developed a yeast infection as a result of licking and chewing (due to an allergy), which created the conditions in which the yeast organism thrives. It may take some time and tests for your vet to sort it all out. Here are some of the other conditions that can cause dogs to itch.
– Bacterial infection (pyoderma)
– Contact dermatitis from exposure to a caustic agent
– Drug reaction
– Fungal infection (including yeast)
– Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease – causes a secondary infection)
– Hypothyroidism (causes a secondary infection)
– Immune-mediated disorders – Includes conditions such as systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE)
– Liver, pancreatic, or renal disease
– Parasitic infection – Includes internal parasites, as well as external parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mites. Three main types of mites are most problematic: Cheyletiella (“walking dandruff”); Demodex canis (which causes demodicosis, also known as red mange or demodectic mange); and Sarcoptes scabiei canis (which causes scabies, also known as sarcoptic mange).
Diagnosing Dog Allergies
Ideally, hypersensitivity to any substance would be confirmed by eliminating it from the animal or the animal’s environment, observing an improvement in the animal’s condition, and reintroducing it with a resulting resumption of signs of allergy. Then, “all” an owner would have to do is prevent his dog’s contact with that substance forever!
If you and your allergic dog lived in a bubble, your task would be a bit simpler; you could control the environment with precision and alter just one environmental variable at a time. But most dogs who are hypersensitive are often allergic to more than one type of allergen. Plus, the world is a dynamic, unpredictable place. Someone can casually hand your dog a treat he’s not supposed to have, or he can dive for and gobble an unidentifiable chunk of matter, and ruin weeks of a carefully constructed food elimination trial. A friend can stop by your house with her dog – and some fleas he just picked up at the beach – and the flea bites your dog received unbeknownst to you can result in a hypersensitive response that leads you to suspect your dog’s current food by mistake.
Even in the best of circumstances, identification of the substance or substances to which a dog is hypersensitive requires absolute diligence and daily observation from the dog’s owner, and an alert, interested veterinarian. And sometimes, the process can take years.
The first step, though, is finding a motivated veterinarian, and making an appointment for your itchy dog. There are many medical conditions that can cause itching, and the veterinarian will need to examine your dog, take a good history, and perhaps run some tests to rule out some of the nonimmunological causes of itching.
The history is particularly important. An astute veterinarian will be able to formulate likely theories about a dog’s allergic triggers based on the information you provide.
“You can find almost everything you need to know by taking a good history,” says Donna Spector, DVM, DACVIM, an internal medicine specialist with a consulting practice in Deerfield, Illinois. “There are good clues to be found in such facts as the environment the dog lives in, when the allergies started, the location on the body that is most affected, whether there is a seasonal component, the dog’s breed, and any medications he’s been given and what sort of response he had to those drugs. All these things will help pinpoint the most likely causes of the dog’s itching.”
Histories are most helpful, of course, when an owner has solid information to pass along. Dates of major itching episodes are perhaps the most helpful, because the date can often correlate to the prevalence of certain environmental allergens. The dog’s age and the season at the onset of the dog’s itching are significant. A full 75 percent of dogs with atopy show signs before they are three years of age. (However, the signs during the dog’s first year are often mild, and the owner may hardly recall the incident.) Also, curiously, dogs whose families move a lot when the dog is young may not show clinical signs of their allergy until they are older.
Highly inbred dogs whose relatives have a high prevalence of allergies may experience serious allergic episodes before they are six months old. Studies have shown that more than three-quarters of the dogs who are diagnosed with atopic allergies first showed signs in the spring, with the majority of the rest showing their first signs in winter.
The vet will want to know when your dog started itching (based on his self-scratching and chewing behaviors), how long the period of itchiness lasted, whether it changed in intensity, and what locations on his body he scratches the most. As eclectic as these facts might seem, each indicates something different about the dog’s condition. For example, “flea bite hypersensitivity” often starts on the dog’s back end and gradually spreads to more and more of his body, whereas a dog whose face seems to itch the most may have an autoimmune disease.
This is yet one more reason why we strongly suggest that all dog owners keep a journal for their dog’s health, or at a minimum, make notes on a calendar or planner about his health. Memory is highly fallible, but even a short note on a calendar (“March 1; Leroy licking his feet.”) can lead to a diagnosis, especially when one reviews the notes for a couple of years and finds a seasonal pattern in the dog’s symptoms. Note things such as when his diet is changed, when flea, tick, or heartworm preventives are administered, and of course, whenever you notice a significant change in his health, habits, or attitude. Your vet’s records will help fill in information about when (and why) your dog was seen at the veterinarian’s office, vaccinated, or given medications.
The vet should also conduct a very thorough and systematic physical examination. Every inch of the dog’s body should be inspected for lesions or redness, with special attention paid to the feet (especially between the toes) and inside the dog’s ears.
As part of the examination, the vet may use a small instrument to scrape cells from your dog’s skin. She will examine the samples under a microscope to look for mites, bacteria, and yeast.
After taking your dog’s history and conducting an exam, the veterinarian may want to run some tests. The ones she orders will depend on what her observations thus far lead her to suspect, or what she’d like to rule out. See “When It Comes to Allergy Tests, Some Flunk.”
If your vet suspects food allergy, or wants to test whether a food allergy might be a component of your dog’s itching, she might suggest a food elimination trial. The results can be rewarding, either confirming the presence of a food allergy or proving that your dog’s allergies are not related at all to his diet – but only if you are able to maintain strict control over every molecule that your dog eats during the duration of the test. See “Food Elimination Trial: A Valuable Tool.”
Some Dogs Show Negative on Allergy Tests
There are a few different types of tests available that purport to identify the allergens to which a dog is hypersensitive; some of them are helpful, and some are a waste of time and money. Since all of them are commonly referred to as “allergy tests,” few people know which ones are credible, and which ones are not. The following is a brief description of the types of tests available for allergy diagnosis.
Blood (serologic) tests for antigen-induced antibodies
Two different methods (RAST and ELISA) are used for the most common commercial test products used by veterinarians, and the tests may be referred to by those names or by the name of the company whose test kit uses the methodology (such as Heska, Greer, or VARL). These tests are designed to detect antibodies that a dog has produced in response to specific environmental antigens. By identifying the antibodies, the tests were supposed to be able to deliver clues about the environmental substances that the dog’s immune system is treating as an “invader.”
Historically, the tests have been unreliable, with lots of false positive and false negative results, though the technology has improved over the years.
If the test results indicate “55 different things your dog is supposedly allergic to,” says Dr. Donna Spector, owner of SpectorDVM Consulting, in Deerfield, Illinois, it’s not particularly helpful, “and not particularly believable, when the results indicate your dog is allergic to something that he doesn’t even have significant exposure to.” However, she adds, if there is a really strong positive result, “not just one or two points above what they say is normal, but really strong results, you have something you can ask the owner about. ‘Does your pet have exposure to oak trees?’ If the owner says, ‘Oh yeah, they’re all over our property, we’re loaded with oak trees!’ then you’ve got something you can work with.” Or rather, something you can target with immunotherapy (allergy shots).
Dr. Spector has one suggestion for those considering paying for one of these tests: “It’s best to test right after the dog has gone through his worst allergy season, because his antibody levels will be the highest at that time, and you can get the best picture of what really bothers him the most. Sometimes a vet will run a blood test randomly, say, in the middle of winter, or ‘in preparation for the upcoming spring,’ and it is not as helpful.”
Skin (intradermal) tests for environmental allergens
In an intradermal test, tiny amounts of a number of suspected or likely local allergens are injected just under the dog’s skin. The location is shaved (the better to observe the reaction of the skin and underlying tissue) and marked (with a pen), so the response to each allergen can be recorded. Swelling and/or redness indicates the dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot.
Identification of the substances to which a dog is allergic is helpful for two reasons. First, if the allergens that are problematic for a dog are known, the dog’s owner can try to prevent (as much as possible) the dog’s exposure to them. Second, testing identifies the allergens to be chosen for inclusion in customized allergy shots (also known as “immunotherapeutic injections”).
Most veterinary dermatologists feel these tests are much more reliable than blood tests for antibodies. It should be noted that the testing is more time-consuming and expensive, not to mention stressful for the dog, who must be observed very closely, several times, by a stranger!
Tests for food allergies
Both blood and skin tests for food allergies exist, but it’s difficult to find anyone (besides the companies that produce the tests) who feels the results are worth the paper they are printed on. It would be exciting and useful if it worked, but so far, the tests are a work in progress, with only an estimated 30 percent accuracy rate. Why would you bother – especially when you can conduct a food elimination trial that will deliver much more accurate information about your dog’s food allergies.
Allergy Treatments for Dogs
Once you and your veterinarian think you have a handle on what your dog is allergic to, it’s time to talk about treatment. Conventional western medicine acknowledges three major approaches for treating allergy:
1. Avoidance
2. Symptomatic therapy
3. Immunotherapy
Avoidance
Avoidance is brilliant. If your dog is allergic to something, you can just keep him away from it. No exposure = no reaction = no treatment! Simple!
Well, it’s simple when it comes to allergens that the dog might eat or a drug he might be given. But only rarely can one control a dog’s environment so assiduously as to entirely prevent exposure to airborne allergens such as pollen or dust.
My dog Rupert (long-deceased) was diagnosed as being allergic to redwood trees. At the time, we lived in a home that had a 150-foot redwood tree towering over it. Cutting down the tree was not an option. Poor Rupe! Fortunately, there were other options. I tried to reduce his exposure to the tree’s pollen and the dirt and dust under the tree (which I imagined was saturated with the tree’s pollen). I didn’t let him lie in the dirt under the tree; I bathed him (with a gentle dog shampoo) pretty much weekly; I washed his bedding weekly; I ripped out all the carpet in the house and kept the floors as clean as possible.
“Good housekeeping practices can help a lot,” agrees Dr. Spector. “I recommend washing the dog’s bedding frequently, at least once a week, in a hypoallergenic detergent. Wiping the dog with a damp cloth to remove airborne allergens, and brushing the haircoat regularly, helps distribute the natural oils and prevents mats that can irritate the skin. With some of the worst cases, I recommend using hypoallergenic pillowcases or mattress covers on the dog’s bed, so he can’t come into contact with any sort of fiber except the hypoallergenic ones. I might also suggest using a HEPA filter. And I’d think about keeping the dog inside on high-pollen days.”
Symptomatic Therapy
Symptomatic therapy means treating the dog’s symptoms. Through varying actions, anti-inflammatory drugs, antihistamines, and corticosteroids all counteract some of the inflammation summoned by the hypersensitive response. Of the three types of drugs, corticosteroids are the most effective at reducing inflammation, but they also pose higher risks to the dog if overused. See “Corticosteroids: Lifesaver or Killer?” next page.
Surprisingly, some antidepressant medications have proven to be helpful in reducing the urge of some allergic dogs to engage in self-mutilation.
Fatty acid supplements have emerged as safe and incredibly beneficial for allergic dogs. “Fatty acids have a really amazing anti-inflammatory effect on the skin,” says Dr. Spector. “Mildly allergic dogs respond best to them. In my opinion, severely allergic dogs should be on them as well; combined with an antihistamine, or some of the other treatment methods, you can get some great results. Fatty acids are incorporated right into the skin layers. They help improve the barrier of the skin, and help decrease the inflammatory cells in the skin.”
Dr. Spector uses a number of fatty acids supplements, but admits she most frequently reaches for the products made by Nordic Naturals.
Immunotherapy
Better known as “allergy shots,” immunotherapy consists of a course of injections of a saline solution; a tiny dose of the substance to which a patient is allergic is added to the solution. Generally, the shots are given once or twice a week for months, with the dose increased slightly each time until an effective dose is reached. The injections of the tiny dose helps the dog’s body become accustomed to the substance. In the best case scenario, after months of the shots, the dog no longer reacts to the substance when he encounters it in the environment.
In order to create immunotherapy customized for the patient, the veterinarian must conduct a “skin test” to determine all the substances to which the dog might be allergic. She first marks the site with a pen (containing hypoallergenic ink) and then injects a tiny bit of different allergens under the dog’s skin, with one allergen per marking. The vet must assiduously keep track of which allergens were injected in which spot and carefully observe the response of the skin to the injections. Swelling or redness in a square indicates the dog is allergic to the substance injected there. All of the allergens to which he reacted and that are likely to appear in the dog’s day to day environment are added to the immunotherapeutic injections, which are given for months or even years, depending on the patient’s response.
The majority of patients who receive immunotherapy improve; some actually completely recover from the hypersensitivity for life! However, the costs in terms of time and money are considerable. It’s worth the most to the owners of the dogs who had the most severe allergies and who responded very positively to the therapy. It may be judged as “not worth the cost” to owners who were unable to strictly comply with the required schedule of veterinary visits, whose dogs had mild allergies to begin with, and those whose dogs failed to respond strongly to the therapy.
Holistic Recommendations for Allergy Treatment
Most holistic veterinary practitioners recommend switching any itchy dog to a complete and balanced home-prepared diet containing “real foods.” This will decrease the dog’s exposure to unnecessary or complex chemicals and give his body the opportunity to utilize the higher-quality nutrients present in fresh foods. Whether the diet is cooked or raw, the increased nutrient quality and availability of fresh whole foods will improve the health of any dog who currently receives even the best dry or canned foods.
“Feeding fresh, unprocessed, organic foods provides more of the building blocks for a healthy immune system,” says Dr. Pesch. “Dogs who have allergies are more likely to be deficient in trace proteins and sugars (proteoglycans) that are used by the immune system. Deficiencies in these nutrients will increase the allergic response.” For her canine allergic patients, Dr. Pesch also recommends supplements such as colostrum, Ambrotose (a “glyconutritional dietary supplement ingredient consisting of a blend of monosaccharides, or sugar molecules”), and Standard Process supplements that contain glandular extracts.
Today, many veterinarians, holistic and conventional, recommend the use of probiotics, especially following any sort of antibiotic therapy. “I recommend a two-week course of probiotics following antibiotic use,” says Dr. Pesch. “It’s preferable to wait until after antibiotics are finished. If probiotics are given at the same time as antibiotics, they will be killed by the antibiotics and may reduce the efficacy of the antibiotics against the intended bacteria.”
Acupuncture can be used to help strengthen the immune system while reducing its overreactivity. “It’s not understood from a western perspective exactly how this is done, but acupuncture has been shown to increase white blood cell counts and circulation while at the same time stabilizing cell membranes and reducing histamine release,” says Dr. Pesch.
Dr. Pesch also recommends individually selected herbs to help reduce inflammation and irritation of the skin. “Many traditional Chinese herbal formulas can help reduce skin itching and inflammation without suppressing the immune system. They are usually not as strong as prednisone, but are in many cases sufficient. Additional herbs can be used to strengthen the immune system, reducing the intensity and frequency of subsequent allergy flare-ups.”
Homeopathy is another modality that can be extremely effective in allergy treatment. “I recommend classical homeopathy by a trained veterinarian,” says Dr. Pesch. “Classical homeopathy looks at the totality of symptoms for an individual to derive at a specific treatment for each unique case. The remedy mimics the disease in the body, stimulating the body’s defenses against the disease process.”
In my own experience, homeopathy is a hit-or-miss proposition. I’ve seen it work miracles on some dogs, and do absolutely nothing for others. Compared with many other medical interventions, homeopathy is inexpensive, poses little risk of serious side effects, and just may work. It’s worth a try, especially in cases where nothing else is working well.
Dr. Pesch expresses the holistic philosophy well. “Because of their ability to help improve immune system function without destroying the healthy balance of bacteria and fungi in the body, I regard the use of acupuncture and herbs or classical homeopathy, along with diet change and nutritional supplements, as the preferable treatment of allergies. This is true for allergies that affect the respiratory and digestive tracts as well as those that cause symptoms in the skin.”
Managing Your Dog’s Exposure
Dr. Spector is an internal medicine specialist and does not consider herself a “holistic practitioner.” But she shares the view of most holistic vets that it’s helpful to try to minimize the exposure of the allergic dog to chemical additives, toxins, and synthetic ingredients.
“I try to be cautious about overstimulating their immune systems in any way,” she says. “That goes for medication, too. Some antibiotics and sulfa drugs, for example, are more likely to stimulate the immune system. I would also choose to do titer tests before blanket vaccinating, to give only what is needed.”
It will also help to limit the dog’s exposure to common allergens – and not just the ones you know (through testing) he’s allergic to, says Dr. Spector. “People think, ‘My dog has an allergy to X, Y, and Z, and those are the things I have to watch out for.’ Unfortunately, most dogs with allergies will go on to develop new allergies throughout their lives, and anything they are exposed to will be on the list of possible allergens. It’s just the nature of the beast when you have an allergic predisposition.”
To that end, keep in mind that you are living with an allergy-susceptible companion, and keep your household exposure of dust, pollen, mites, and fleas to a minimum.
Greer, a maker of canine, feline, and human allergy tests and immunotherapy products, offers the following suggestions for the owners of allergic dogs. The recommendations are all very good:
– Dust and vacuum often, but not when the pet is present.
– Consider installing air conditioning, air filtration systems, and/or a vacuum with air filtration to avoid reintroducing allergens back into the pet’s environment.
– Use dehumidifiers to help control mold and mites.
– Limit the pet’s outdoor time during peak allergy seasons.
– Avoid going outside at dawn and dusk which can be times of high outdoor pollen.
– Rinse off your pets’ paws right after they’ve been outdoors.
Heska Corporation, another maker of allergy tests and immunotherapy products, adds these suggestions:
– Keep lawn grass cut short to reduce seed and pollen production.
– Keep pets off the lawn one to two hours after mowing or when the lawn is wet.
– Avoid letting pet put head out of car windows when traveling.
– Dry pet’s bedding in the dryer instead of outside.
– Frequently bathe pet using hypoallergenic shampoos, leave-in conditioners, and cool water rinses.
Speaking of “management,” it’s also important to manage your own expectation of your dog’s condition. Life with allergy is a marathon, not a sprint, and while new hypersensitivities can flare up at any time, resolution may also be just one more intervention away.
Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ. She’s owned one severely allergic dog, and still cares for an ancient allergic cat.
Your dog is limping and you don’t know why, so you take him to your veterinarian. The vet pushes, pulls, and palpates and announces that your dog probably has torn ligaments in his knee. She says that he needs surgery, and she can take care of that.
Photo by Christy Waehner
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While you love your dog’s vet, you’re just not sure that you agree, and you’re also unsure whether surgery is the route you want to take. You feel uncomfortable thinking the thought, but wonder what another veterinarian might recommend.
I’ve sought second opinions when I need to know more, or when I think that a specialist’s eyes, hands, and training might offer a different perspective on the initial diagnosis. When faced with serious illness in my Bouviers (who were young at the time), I didn’t hesitate to seek out a second opinion. In two cases – Axel’s immune mediated thrombocytopenia and Jolie’s back problem – I didn’t doubt the competency of the care being offered by their veterinarians; I simply wanted to be sure that the diagnosis was accurate and that I’d explored all my treatment options. I shared my decision to solicit another opinion with my veterinarians, and they gave me their full support.
After an exam by a board-certified internist, Axel’s primary care veterinarian continued to treat him, and was willing to incorporate alternative modalities into Axel’s treatment plan.
In Jolie’s case, we solicited input from her primary care veterinarian, a veterinary chiropractor, a surgeon in private practice, and finally from a board-certified neurologist at a veterinary college’s small animal teaching hospital. In both cases, we had successful outcomes and a continued good relationship with our primary veterinarians.
In my opinion, a second opinion is a good thing. We are the advocates for our dogs’ health. If I have any doubts, questions, or even just a niggling feeling that I can’t put my finger on, I will opt for a second opinion. I’ve done it enough times now to feel comfortable doing so, and there’s no reason that all dog guardians shouldn’t be, too.
Always okay A strong proponent of second opinions, Nancy Kay, DVM, DACVIM, devoted an entire chapter of her book, Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life, to reassuring pet owners about looking past their primary veterinarians when they want more information about the animal’s condition. (The chapter is titled “A Second Opinion Is Always Okay.”)
Photo by Cindy Noland
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According to Dr. Kay, “Second opinions serve two valuable purposes. The clearest benefit is for your pup . . . The other beneficiary is you – second opinions tend to be reassuring, and allow you to feel you are doing the best job possible for the dog you love so dearly.”
Dr. Kay’s book is a great resource for anyone considering seeking a second opinion. Many of the concerns I had are ones she’s heard many time before, including:
– What will my dog’s veterinarian think? Despite the fact that you might feel uncomfortable doing so, it’s in everyone’s best interest that you share with your dog’s vet your plan to seek a second opinion. She should support your decision.
If my dogs’ veterinarians had reacted negatively to my decisions to seek second opinions, I’d be thinking long and hard about what kind of relationship we had, and whether it should continue. A veterinarian who is confident in her skills and relationship with you will not take offense with your seeking a second opinion.
Board-certified veterinary surgeon Alan Cross, DVM, DACVS, is an orthopedist at Georgia Veterinary Specialists in Atlanta. If a client brings a dog to him for an exam, and subsequently informs him that she’ll be seeking another opinion for a diagnosis/treatment plan, he’s agreeable. “It’s important that the owner believes in treatment they decide to pursue. If they have doubts, I don’t want to operate on that patient.” His only request is that the client takes her dog to another board-certified surgeon (if dealing with a surgical decision).
– To whom will I go? Dr. Cross’ request makes sense to me, as my preference when seeking a second opinion is to go to a board-certified specialist, or a veterinarian who specializes in the type of condition the dog has. Dr. Kay points out that it might be possible – and easy – to see another veterinarian within your dog’s clinic if you frequent a multi-vet hospital, but cautions that you might encounter a situation where the veterinarians have practiced together for so long that their thinking is similar.
For me, finding a resource outside the clinic is the way to go (unless it is a multi-specialty practice). Look first to your dog’s veterinarian for a recommendation; otherwise, search for a board-certified specialist on the certifying organization’s website, and at veterinary colleges.
Often, condition-specific discussion lists (i.e., tick borne disease, irritable bowel disease, etc.) on the internet are available, and list members might be able to provide you the name of an expert in your area. Sometimes it is necessary to drive a little further for a good second opinion. For me, the trip is worth the time.
– Won’t they run all the same tests? Not necessarily, and this is another reason to tell your dog’s veterinarian that you’ll be seeking a second opinion and with whom: she’ll be able to forward all copies of test results to the specialist.
In many cases, a second opinion visit will consist of only an exam and a discussion; you won’t necessarily need to sign up for a barrage of tests, and it won’t drain your wallet. But, if the specialist comes up with a completely different diagnosis, then be prepared to run tests to confirm the diagnosis. And, yes, it is possible that a third opinion might be in order.
– Are there alternatives? Christy Waehner of Atlanta does her best to seek a second opinion if the initial treatment plan doesn’t offer alternatives – preferably, an alternative to western medicine. When her Doberman, Sylvia, was diagnosed with wobbler syndrome (compression of the spinal cord in the neck caused by vertebral instability) the vet recommended surgery.
Although she loved her veterinarian, Waehner asked him whether there might be another option, given that Sylvia’s temperament would not lend itself well to the type of recovery required post-surgery. On her behalf, he reached out and found another veterinarian willing to implant gold beads (the procedure is an alternative therapy related to acupuncture). After a successful procedure, Sylvia returned to competing in agility.
The one situation in which there isn’t time for another opinion is when your dog is in the throes of a medical emergency. Dr. Kay recommends planning for that scenario by doing your homework ahead of time and knowing which emergency clinics in your area offer the kind of care you expect.
Second opinions are typically good things when approached with the support of your veterinarian, the right attitude, and realistic expectations given your dog’s condition. Ask questions, including “What is the typical outcome in cases like this? Best case? Worst case?” We rarely get miracles, but we can get some peace of mind knowing that we’ve gone the extra mile to help our dogs.
Lisa Rodier shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.
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