Novartis Animal Health suspended production at its Lincoln, Nebraska, plant in December 2011 following a series of warnings from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regarding manufacturing and quality control violations. At that time, the only veterinary drugs affected were the heartworm and flea products Interceptor, Program, and Sentinel. Novartis said it hoped to return to full production in January.
Instead, further problems were discovered when Novartis warned veterinarians about possible tablet mix-ups in bottles of Clomicalm, used to treat separation anxiety. On January 5th, Novartis sent a letter to veterinarians informing them that it was suspending production and shipments of Clomicalm and Milbemite (used to treat ear mites) in addition to the products listed above.
Novartis resumed shipping already manufactured products in early February, but those have since run out, including supplies of Deramaxx, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) whose production had been moved to the Nebraska facility shortly before the shutdown.
While substitutes for all of these products exist, it can be difficult for pet owners who rely on certain products that they know work well for their pets to suddenly have to make a change. The situation becomes even more stressful when using products such as NSAIDs, where it is unsafe to switch quickly from one to another without a washout period in between, or medications like Clomicalm that can take weeks to build up to effective levels in the blood.
Almost nine months after the initial announcement, the facility still has not resumed full production. Novartis says that it is now shipping the 5 mg strength of Clomicalm (the generic equivalent, clomipramine hydrochloride, is available in higher strengths elsewhere, including 1800petmeds.com). The company also states that it is at the testing pre-production stage for Sentinel, a combination of milbemycin oxime (heartworm preventive medication also found in Interceptor) and lufenuron (insect growth regulator used to control fleas, also found in Program), but they have not given an estimated date as to when this product will be available. Note that the Novartis veterinary products Atopica, Capstar, and Adequan are made at other facilities and are therefore not an issue.
In Canada, the situation is even more dire. Sandoz Canada, part of the generic pharmaceuticals division of Novartis, discontinued some medications and downsized production of others in response to FDA citations noting product reliability concerns and safety issues tied to the Sandoz plant in Boucherville, Quebec. A fire that broke out March 4 in the plant’s boiler room made the problem even worse. Affected drugs include morphine, fentanyl, phenobarbital, diazepam, and more. Sandoz has indicated that no human drugs will be delivered to veterinarians before the end of 2012, and vets are struggling to find acceptable alternatives.
– Mary Straus
For more information: Novartis Animal Health, 800-332-2761, petwellness.com
Fish oil is probably the most important supplement you can add to your dog’s diet, regardless of what type of diet you feed. EPA and DHA, the omega-3 fatty acids in fish oil, provide widespread benefits, but they are fragile and unlikely to survive storage in bags of kibble, or may be rancid even before being added to pet foods. Krill oil and whole fish also provide EPA and DHA that may be better absorbed, providing similar benefits in smaller doses.
BENEFITS
Proven benefits from EPA and DHA include:
-Improving the coat and skin.
-Reducing inflammation due to conditions such as arthritis, allergies, and inflammatory bowel disease.
-Regulating the immune system, boosting those that are suppressed and calming overactive immune systems for dogs with allergies or autoimmune diseases.
-Aiding in mental development of fetuses and puppies, and improving cognitive function in older dogs.
-Lowering blood pressure and triglycerides.
-Providing support for dogs with kidney disease, heart disease, and cancer.
-Promoting weight loss in overweight dogs.
CAUTIONS
Fish oil should be protected from light, heat, and air. Store liquid fish oil in dark bottles in the refrigerator. Purchase amounts that can be used within one or two months to avoid rancidity. If you notice an “off” odor, discard the oil.
Independent agencies have tested many human and pet supplements. None have found mercury, but a few products had unsafe levels of PCBs, provided less EPA or DHA than was shown on the label, or were spoiled. For those concerned about contaminants, look for molecularly distilled products (note the term “pharmaceutical grade” has no legal definition). More concentrated forms, with higher amounts of EPA and DHA per gram, result in lower levels of contaminants.
Liquid fish oil products made for humans often contain flavorings that dogs generally do not like.
DOSAGE
Use products made for either humans or dogs. The amount of EPA and DHA in various fish oil preparations varies. Look for concentrated forms when giving high doses so you use smaller amounts of oil.
(If you’re concerned about the possible dangers of fish oil to humans, click here.)
Healthy dogs can be given 100 to 150 mg EPA and DHA per 10 pounds of body weight daily; dogs who have health problems can be given up to 300 mg per 10 pounds of body weight. One ounce of canned fish with bones (sardines, jack mackerel, pink salmon) averages about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined.
The recommended dosage of liquid fish oil products is often too high, adding unnecessary fat and calories to your dog’s diet. High doses of fish oil can interfere with platelets and lead to increased bleeding, and too much can contribute to rather than reduce inflammation.
Cod liver oil is similar to fish oil, but most products also contain high levels of vitamins A and D (molecular distillation removes these vitamins). For those who feed a homemade diet that does not include much fish, give an amount that provides about 100 IUs of vitamin D per 25 pounds of body weight daily. Do not use high doses of cod liver oil. If additional omega-3 fatty acids are desired, add plain fish oil.
RECOMMENDED SOURCES
There are many different brands of fish oil supplements. Here are a few examples:
My Border Collie Daisy trained for the world record in the “hack put” event. This soon-to-be Olympic sport involves hacking pills from the back of the throat as far as possible across the room. Her record is 1.2 meters, even after a time delay of about two minutes following pill administration. Most of us are familiar with the tried and true ways of administering pills to our dogs – hiding them in food such as cream cheese or braunschweiger or vanilla ice cream, or using commercial products such as Pill Pockets. When my dog progressed to the end stage of her cancer disease, I found I had to approach giving medications a little differently; the usual methods ceased working.
1. Novelties and Diversity: Change the Foods You Put Your Dog’s Pills In
When Daisy’s appetite waned, I began scouring the grocery store for novel food items that she might find enticing: canned cat food, Velveeta cheese, meatballs, banana bread, muffins, tortellini.
A good friend recently went through end stage osteosarcoma with her dog; his pain medication was quite bitter, but much needed. After biting into the awful-tasting pill once, he became wary of treats. My friend discovered a great solution: she twisted off the top of a sandwich cookie (Oreo-type), placed the pill inside, replaced the top, and handed the cookie to her dog. Because it was novel, and the pill well disguised, cookie and pill were gone in a gulp.
At one point Daisy began to associate receiving one of her medications with making her feel sick; it was an antibiotic and antibiotics can often have this effect. (They have this effect on me, too!) Studies have shown that foods eaten in association with developing nausea can turn patients off of that food and sometimes food in general. This is a good reason not to place pills into meals at feeding time as well as to frequently change the food item you hide the pill in.
2. Try Flavored Medications or Non-Oral Options
More and more medications are being offered in flavored liquid suspensions ranging in flavors from chicken pot pie to cheddar cheese to strawberry shortcake. Drugs are suspended in palatable flavors (dogs prefer the meat, cheese, and sweet flavors) and are administered with an oral syringe. Flavored chewables are also great alternatives; the active drug is measured precisely to the veterinarian’s orders and then mixed with flavor base and gelatin.
With some medications, transdermal gels, custom creams, suppositories, flavored powders, and oral gels may also be options. Consult with your veterinarian and a compounding pharmacy that specializes in veterinary drugs to discuss those that might work for your pet. Be aware, though, that compounding costs more than standard prescriptions.
3. Gamify Your Dog’s Medication Time
Play can help boost not only your dog’s spirit but also your own. I found two play techniques to work quite well. The first was toss & catch. Tossing a treat to catch from a short distance away was a game I had often played with my dogs. Now it was repurposed: not only would I toss regular treats, but also the hidden pill. Watch carefully, though, to ensure the pill is caught and ingested! If your dog is not adept at catching, or doesn’t have the energy, you can roll the treats to her.
The other fun thing to do is use dog puzzles, especially if your dog is used to playing with them. The pill can be hidden with other treats and will be gobbled up along with the others. Again, monitor carefully to make sure your dog actually receives the medication.
4. Click and Treat and Pill
On a whim one day, I gathered a handful of really tasty treats (baked sirloin) and picked up the clicker. I had taught my dogs many things through clicker training; they thought it was a blast and eagerly offered behaviors in attempts to get the human slot machine to pay off. Every time they would hear a clicker, they would come running because it obviously indicated that a fun training session was about to begin.
To my amazement, this technique, instilled during puppyhood, became not only a great way to get Daisy to eat (even when she wasn’t feeling like it – as if the act of receiving the reward was greater than her lack of appetite), but also proved to be a great way to have her unknowingly swallow a hidden pill as I rewarded her for a behavior.
We also drew on our experience with the reward marker “jackpot” (where a bunch of treats rains down on the dog); I wouldn’t necessarily ask for a behavior to reward, but would just say the word excitedly and it would trigger an automatic seeking of the downpour of treats (which, of course, just happened to have pills hidden among them).
5. Wonder Bread, When All Else Fails
There came a time when all the tricks failed. To ensure her proper care and comfort, I had to resort to the standard technique of opening Daisy’s mouth and popping multiple pills down her throat four times a day.
Most pills by themselves can taste yucky and can get stuck in the mouth or throat; to avoid this, I used small pieces of Wonder bread (for some reason none of the other soft white bread brands work like Wonder bread – trust me on this) as a wrap around the pills and then quickly dunked these in water immediately before administering. The bread would turn slimy but add just enough protectant so that the pills would not start dissolving right away and allow them to slide easily into the digestive tract.
6. Appoint A Designated Pill Administrator
If you’re in a hospice or long-term care situation, giving pills frequently can become a chore. And if your dog is not feeling well or dreads the act of receiving the pills, it can begin to have an effect on your relationship; that’s the last thing anyone wants.
Consider finding someone who can administer the medications for you, such as a friend, family member or veterinary technician. It may not always be convenient and it may not be for every dose, but it can avoid you always having to be the bad guy and allow you to focus on having enjoyable moments with your dearest friend.
Barbara Dobbins is a San Francisco Bay Area dog trainer on hiatus. She isn’t sure what her life looks like without her girl Daisy, who lost her battle with cancer in July, but she knows it was made so much better because Daisy shared the journey with her.
A cue becomes “poisoned” when the dog’s association with the cue is ambiguous – it’s sometimes associated with positive reinforcement, and sometimes associated with punishment. When the association is ambiguous, the dog becomes confused and doesn’t know what to expect. Poisoning your “Come!” cue is the best way to ensure that she’ll stop and weigh her choices, then take off after the bounding deer, rather than come galloping to you when you call.
A positively trained “Come” cue always “opens the door” to positive reinforcement. If the behavior does not occur, the only result is that no reinforcement occurs. When the behavior occurs, reinforcement is guaranteed. As soon as the dog understands what “Come” means, the cue itself becomes a positive reinforcer because of its consistent association with a high-value reward.
A recall trained by correction/punishment also creates an association in the dog’s mind – but the association is not positive. If the dog doesn’t come when called, or doesn’t do it quickly enough, the command leads to punishment such as a “leash pop” or verbal reprimand (often called a “correction”). The command is now a conditioned positive punisher (the dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen) and/or negative reinforcer (the dog’s behavior makes a bad thing go away; the punishment stops when the dog finally comes). The dog works to avoid bad stuff rather than to get good stuff. The dog’s emotional response to the “Come” command is negative/avoidance, not positive.
Even if the behavior was initially trained with positive reinforcement, if a cue is followed by an aversive correction (leash pop, verbal reprimand) for incorrect behavior, the cue immediately loses its positive association and its value as a positive reinforcer. It is, at best, ambiguous. It no longer automatically triggers the positive emotions associated with conditioned positive reinforcers. This often occurs with trainers who use positive reinforcement to train a behavior, but then use “corrections” to “proof” the behavior – that is, once they believe the dog “knows” the behavior, they feel they are justified in using punishment if the dog doesn’t do it when asked. This, too, will quickly poison a cue.
Even if primary reinforcers, such as approval, toys, and treats are used during or after training, the “Come” cue is a threat as well as a promise. Compliance diminishes because behavior that might be punished tends to be avoided. The dog’s attitude often switches from attentive eagerness to reluctance and avoidance, frequently with manifestations of stress. Even though an appropriate behavioral response to the “Come” cue is still followed by reward, if failure is followed by punishment, the cue has become ambiguous in terms of predictable outcome. It is no longer “safe.” You have poisoned your recall cue.
“Come” is one of the cues that are most frequently poisoned by dog owners – if not THE most commonly poisoned cue. Owners often inadvertently poison the recall cue by following it with a consequence the dog perceives as undesirable, even though the owner isn’t intentionally punishing the dog. It can happen to anyone. Before I realized that coming into the house was aversive to our Corgi, I often called her to “Come!” and then took her inside. By the time I realized she was avoiding me when I said “Come,” it was too late – the damage to the cue had been done.
At least one study suggests that it’s easier to use a new cue than to rehabilitate a cue that’s been poisoned, as the poisoned cue will likely always carry a negative association. With that in mind, when I realized I had given her a negative association with the word “Come,” I changed her cue.
Now I use “Let’s go!” and make sure it’s frequently associated with fun stuff – even when we’re going into the house. On the way to the house we often play targeting games or “Chase the Cuz,” her all-time favorite toy. Sometimes I don’t call her, but go into the house without her. Because she hates being outside alone, she soon appears at the back door, waiting to be let in. I can get away with temporarily leaving her outside unattended because we live smack dab in the middle of our 80-acre farm, almost a half-mile from the road, and I know she won’t leave. Problem solved.
Teaching your dog to come when called is no longer the way it was 20 years ago – when every obedience class taught it by leaving her on a sit-stay, walking across the room, and firmly commanding her to speed to a perfectly straight sit at the tips of your toes. Today’s educated trainers and knowledgeable dog owners recognize the value of making “Come” the happiest word in their dogs’ dictionary, and understand that truly reliable recalls can happen in the face of bouncing bunnies, dashing deer, cavorting cats, and flying squirrels.
Don’t do this! A straight-on, leaning-forward posture and angry expression are daunting to most dogs. Would you come to someone who looked like this?
There was a time when trainers warned clients that they had to be more interesting than squirrels, cats, deer, and bunnies, if they wanted their dogs to come reliably when called. Good luck making yourself more interesting than a bounding Bambi!
In reality, the foundation for a solid recall starts long before Bambi makes an appearance, and doesn’t rely on you being a one man (or woman) canine entertainment center to successfully compete with significant distractions. It starts when you first introduce your dog to the “Come” cue. Successful recalls rely on a strong, classically conditioned association with high-value reinforcers. In other words, your dog learns that coming when called is so much fun that when you call her she doesn’t stop to weigh her options – she just automatically and gleefully comes flying to you.
Laying the Foundation
An enthusiastic automatic response to the recall cue requires that you lay a strong foundation from the very beginning, associating “Come!” (or whatever your recall cue) with really fun stuff. (See “Beware the Poisoned Cue,” top right). We do this in our basic good manners classes by teaching a “Run-Away Recall!” which looks like this:
Author/Trainer Pat Miller demonstrates a speedy recall with her Cardigan Corgi, Lucy.
1. In a safely fenced or enclosed environment, stash a supply of high-value treats in a bowl on a counter or table next to you. With your dog in front of you, say “Come!” (or your chosen recall cue) in a cheerful “We’re having a party!” voice and feed her a pea-size treat from the bowl.
Repeat several times, until your “Come!” cue elicits a happy “Where’s the treat?” response from her. You’ve now “charged” the “Come” cue, and are ready to try it out.
2. If you stand and face your dog when you call her (as done in old-fashioned training), you risk looking like an intimidating authority figure, which takes the fun out of “Come.” Instead, have your dog at your side (on- or off-leash), say “Come!” in a loud, cheerful, “We’re having a party” voice, and run away as fast as you can. The combination of your charged “Come” cue and your dog’s natural inclination to run after things that move should result in her following you as you run, hopefully at least at a trot, but preferably at a full gallop.
3. As she’s running after you, click your clicker (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”). After you’ve run at least 10 to 15 feet or more, stop running and feed her the treat. Repeat several times until it’s clear she understands the game.
If her first response was a lukewarm trot, it may take several repetitions until she gets happy and excited enough about the game to gallop after you. You may need to increase the distance you run to give her time to get in gear. You may also need to increase your excitement to get her more excited, or decrease your enthusiasm if you think you may be scaring her with your energy level, which can sometimes happen with “soft” dogs.
4. Toss a few treats on the ground. While your dog is busy eating them, walk 10 feet away. As she finishes the last treat, call her and run away as fast as you can. Give her treats again when she reaches you. Repeat this exercise, gradually increasing the distance you walk away before calling her.
5. Start looking for opportunities where your dog is mildly engaged in something of relatively low interest to do your Run-Away Recall. When you can easily call her away from low-level distractions, try it with distractions of gradually increasing value.
Add toys to the mix if you think it will help. Some dogs will romp to you more enthusiastically for a squeaky toy or a game of tug than a bit of chicken; try both and use what works best for your dog. You can mix it up for dogs who like all three – the unpredictability of the reward can make it more fun and exciting for your dog. If you use the squeak of a toy to elicit a gallop, be sure to toss the toy for your dog when she gets there!
That’s your foundation – but your fun with recalls has only just begun. Add more fun games, like the ones on the next few pages, to generalize her understanding of the “Come” behavior to higher and higher levels of distraction. In this way, you can eventually train your dog to a level that enables you to trust her off-leash in safe, open areas.
More Recall Fun
My personal favorite recall “add-on” is teaching an emergency “stop” cue. I use “Wait!” to pause my dogs in mid-step (see “Wait a Bit, Stay a While,” WDJ May 2001). Once their forward movement is stopped, it is much easier for them to hear and respond to their recall cue. I have also used a well-trained “Down!” as a stop cue. Again, when the dog’s forward motion is stopped, the recall happens more easily.
Leslie Nelson of Tails-U-Win in Manchester, Connecticut, is world-renowned for her “Really Reliable Recall” methods, available on DVD and in her book of the same title. Among other things, she advocates teaching an emergency recall cue that you charge with high-value treats and practice often in low-distraction environments.
Because this is a different word from your everyday recall cue, you don’t risk poisoning it accidentally. Then when you need it in a true emergency (dog running toward busy highway), it’s very likely to work. Pick a word that is easy for you to keep the positive association (some people use “Cookies!”) and remember to use it if and when you need it.
Every positive trainer has her own version of recall games. Here are some you can use with your dog:
Clarissa Bergeman, CPDT-KA, of Canine Company, LLC, in Round Hill, Virginia, suggests this version of an old obedience competition technique to get faster recalls: “As your dog is running in, whip a tennis ball or other favorite toy out of your back pocket and toss the object between your legs as your dog runs through to get it. It’s not just for small dogs. Coordinated handlers can lift one leg to let the dog run through and play this game with larger dogs, too!”
Laura Dorfman, CPDT-KA, PMCT1, of Kona’s Touch in Chicago’s North Shore, Illinois, invented a new game to play with her recently adopted Terrier-mix, Captain Jack Cricket:
“I sit with him right in front of me and cup both my hands together, playing a kind of peek-a-boo game in which he always finds a treat or toy in my hands. When he is a little farther from me, I get down on one knee and cup my hands together; when he sees this, he comes running for whatever yummy thing I have in my cupped hands.
“Twice, I’ve seen him him pick up something I didn’t want him to have, and I’ve cupped my hands together. each time, he dropped the item and came running. I started this game with him because I wanted to make sure he wasn’t becoming hand shy, but now I’ve taught him a few different behaviors that end with this great recall. It helps him love hands. It helps with targeting. And it’s given him an awesome recall.”
Cindy Mauro, CPDT-KA, of Cindy Mauro Dog Training in Bergen County, New Jersey, reminds dog owners that “Come” shouldn’t always mean an end to the fun stuff.
“When my dog is outside having a good time, playing with another dog or a person, I start with calling his name and letting him know I have something fabulous – steak, chicken, etc. – not an ordinary treat. In the beginning, I let him see the treats, or hear the crinkling bag. He runs to me, and I mark with “Yes”! and feed 1-2-3 treats, then immediately release him with ‘Go play.’
“Doing this randomly throughout the day teaches him that it’s great to come when I call his name, and I’m not always ending the ‘fun’ (play, chasing a squirrel etc.). The key is to do this often and randomly, with lots of repetitions of ‘treat / go play.’ I can get my dogs running to me even when they’re in the far end of the yard playing a rousing game of chase with each other!”
Susie Daily, CPDT-KA, from Pets In Motion in Wayne, Pennsylvania, offers a different perspective on recalls.
Photo by Jennie Clutterbuck
She says, “I like to do ‘Opportunity Comes,’ where you identify things your dog runs to you for anyway, and then just add the cue.
“For instance, before dinner time you know your dogs will run to you when they hear the sound of the food bin/bag/cupboard opening, so right before you open it, say ‘Fido, come!’ in an excited happy tone, then open the food and feed dinner! Reward is inherent and they start to perk up when they hear that cue.
“Other examples might be the sound of the ice cube dispenser on the fridge door (my dogs come running for that), the sound of the car keys, the sound of a squeaky toy, etc. Just be sure not to trick them! If it’s the car keys for instance, better take them for a ride. Anything you know your dog will run to you for anyway, just put it on cue!”
Sean Howard, PMCT1, of Up With Pup in Toronto, used the Premack Principle to teach a solid recall to his dog, Mikka. The Premack Principle says you can use a higher value/more likely behavior to reinforce a lower value/less likely behavior.
Howard says, “Mikka and I play the squirrel Premack game every day of every week. It was how we got recall in the first place; he is a Karelian Bear Dog and like many of his breed, predisposed to chasing things to the end of the earth.
“The game is simple. He targets a squirrel (now, even when he is off-leash), his body itching to launch. I wait a few seconds, and then call him. If he turns and comes at me in a full out run, I drop the leash and scream (mainly to give the squirrel a safe head start) for him to go ‘Get it!’ He tears off in a mad dash and comes prancing back proudly after he trees the squirrel. If he doesn’t choose to come to me when called, I say ‘Too bad!’ and we turn and walk the other way.
Estie Dallett, PMCT2, of Civil Dogobedience, based in Washington, D.C., recommends Round Robin Recalls, or what she calls “Multi-Person Random Order Recall Circle.”
She plays it this way: “At least three people spread out at a distance suitable to the level of the dog’s response-ability, then take turns cuing “come” in a randomly changing order. Often it makes an impression on the dog if you start off by doing two or three ‘circuits’ of cues in order, going left or right around the circle, then switch into random order. The dog will initially anticipate the next person to go to, but then will learn to pay attention to the person who actually said ‘Come.’
“Distraction levels can be increased by having the non-cuing people do increasingly active or silly dances or talking, applauding, or whatever. It’s important that all the people have equally fabulous treats. If not, a beginner dog may just hang around the person with the yummiest food. Of course, if the dog goes to a person who did not call her, then that person must ignore/turn their back on the dog.”
You can also enhance the recall response by having the person who calls the dog turn and run away to increase the enthusiasm of the dog’s response.
Recalls With Class
Trainers are also finding ways to make recalls more fun in the classroom setting. My training center, Peaceable Paws LLC, in Fairplay, Maryland, offers a recall class that makes use of the entire 80-acre farm, giving owners an opportunity to generalize their dogs’ recalls to the outdoors, in the presence of distractions such as horses, deer, squirrels, groundhogs, turkeys, and more.
Jessica Miller, PMCT1, one of our Peaceable Paws trainers, likes to demonstrate the “Run Away Recall,” to show owners how silly they can be. She says, “When we give a big over-the-top performance, it seems that the class does better! It also helps everyone loosen up and give themselves permission to act silly. I like to give a prize for the person who gives the most exciting recall performance.”
Susie Daily, CPDT-KA, holds recall races in her classes. “I like doing recall races at the end of Manners 1, as long as all dogs are friendly and can tolerate it. Instructors/assistants run with the dogs on-leash to prevent any incidents.
“Two dogs are restrained by assistants at one end of the room. A finish line is marked at the other. Owners go across the finish line and wait to be told: ‘Ready, set, call your dog!’ Both call their dogs, and the one to get their dog across the finish line and into a sit first, wins. Then we race two more, until everyone has raced, then winners race each other. We do heats until we find the fastest recaller!”
Diana Foley, CPDT-KA, of Progressive Pet Training in Gaithersburg, Maryland, also holds friendly competitions in her classes, but instead of speed, she’s looking for the most enthusiastic recalls. “I like to have the dogs line up with their owners, and one at a time, the owners go across the room (I hold their dogs at the starting line) and call their dogs. We have a friendly competition for who can get their dog to come with the most enthusiasm. It helps the owners lighten up and be more silly and fun when calling their dogs, and the other owners observe and cheer them on. It makes for a fun environment where owners are having fun with their dogs rather than the stern and commanding “COME” that I’m sure we’ve all seen!”
My personal favorite is the “Hidden Treasure” recall. Leave your dog in the house and set up a “treasure area” by hiding high-value reinforcers in your fenced yard, or along a hiking path. Hide some of your dog’s favorite toys as well as extra-tasty treats. With the treats hidden, bring your dog out to the treasure-laced area, off-leash if she’s ready for that, or on a long line if necessary. Call her. When she gets to you, run with her to the nearest hiding place and reveal the treasure. The combination of the fun run, followed by the appearance and delivery of the treats, will make this an irresistible game for your dog. She’ll be amazed that you can make marvelous reinforcers appear out of thin air!
Get Creative
One of the many things I love about positive reinforcement training is that it encourages trainers and owners to get creative with their training. No longer is there one “right” way to teach behaviors; there are as many ways as there are human brains to think them up.
The panoply of ideas described above for teaching your dog to come to you enthusiastically and fast when called demonstrates this – and these barely scratch the surface. We challenge you to come up with more fun ways to teach your dog to come when you call her. Meanwhile, remember to keep your recalls consistently fun and rewarding for your dog so that she’ll romp to you with enthusiasm, each and every time you call her.
Ages ago, I edited a horse magazine, and for a time, published a column written by the noted animal communicator Penelope Smith. I really enjoyed the opportunity to talk to Smith each month, and as we discussed the column, we’d sometimes veer off into a talk about a general topic having to do with animals and our relationships with them. Despite my preconceptions of someone who purports to “talk to the animals” as being nutty, I found Smith to be incredibly insightful, wise, and humorous. She was empathetic and yet practical. I bought several of her books on “interspecies communication” and was fascinated by her accounts of experiences with hundreds of animals.
At some point, I asked Smith that if she was able to telepathically communicate with animals at pretty much any distance, was she ever troubled by the plight of, say, animals locked in a shelter somewhere?
As usual, her answer surprised me. I’m paraphrasing a conversation that took place 20 years ago, but my memory was that she took the position that while it’s indeed sad for us to see any animal in pain or distress or at risk of being killed, that the animals themselves had to take some amount of responsibility for their unfortunate situations. Her belief was that all beings choose their lives and bodies – and that, in the case of (as one example) a dog in a shelter, that individual makes choices every day that could lead him out of a shelter or cause him to be euthanized.
I’ve thought about that conversation countless times over the years – and in the majority of cases, I’ve thought about it in relation to the plight of animals in shelters or in the homes of abusers or hoarders. Aren’t they completely at the mercy of humans, for better or worse? Or are they there as a result of their own actions or inactions?
I think about this when, in the kennels of my local shelter, I come across a super smart, friendly, well-mannered dog who practically grabs me by the lapels and seems to say, “I need help to get out of here. I’ll be a good dog and I want a nice family. Help?” Some dogs seem to inspire, if not demand, that the shelter staff and volunteers put their maximum efforts into finding a good home on their behalf.
But I also think about the concept of “personal responsibility” and free will as they relate to animals, when I come across a dog who is doing nothing whatsoever to help himself get adopted – the one who won’t engage with visitors to the kennels, or who acts like a crazed jack-in-the-box in the “get acquainted” room, or attacks an adopter’s dog or cat within minutes of arriving at a potentially good home. Of course, it makes just as much sense to explain these things as a lack of exposure to humans, a lack of training, and a lack of proper socialization. And while as a volunteer at the shelter, I certainly try to give all the dogs some positive exposure to humans, training, and social opportunities, I sometimes find myself saying to a dog, “Hey, do yourself a favor and behave yourself in front of these nice people who are looking for a family pet, will ya?”
If a dog behaves aggressively toward humans and is euthanized – was this partly his own fault, for failing to control his desire or instinct to bite? Or was it entirely a man-made tragedy, because he wasn’t properly socialized, trained, and managed?
What do you think? Do you think dogs are completely at our mercy in this world for their fate, or do you think they are somewhat (or largely) responsible for their own fates?
Volunteering at my local shelter this past weekend, I was photographing a cute senior Chihuahua (in an effort to better represent him on the shelter website) when I noticed something on his tummy. At first I thought it was discolored for a health reason. But when another volunteer and I rolled him over for a closer look, I could see that he was tattooed. As we stretched him in such a way to reveal the whole tattoo, I was in the process of telling my fellow volunteer that this was once a common practice – that before identification microchips became common, dogs were sometimes tattooed with the owner’s driver’s license number or phone number.
288
But then we decoded the message. It looked like this:
S O
THE R
U L
D CA
N
D
Or, in other words,
THE STUD
ORLAND, CA
Just in case you were wondering, the dog was neutered – NOT a stud. I’m guessing it’s the name of a bar or something, although I was not able to find a listing for a business by that name in Orland, California, which is about 50 miles from this shelter. The dog was surrendered by someone who said she inherited the dog from a friend who passed away. She had the dog for about a year before deciding she couldn’t keep him. She did not mention anything about the dog having a tattoo.
What the heck? Is our society so tattoo-crazy that our dogs are now fair game for skin art? I can see putting a dog through the discomfort of a tattoo for identification purposes, but no other reason.
(For what it’s worth, in this case, though, I can honestly say the tattoo may well have played a role in getting the dog adopted. The first couple I showed him to adopted him. They did ask to meet him before they knew there was a tattoo, but they clearly thought the tattoo was an interesting novelty, too.)
What do you think? Have you seen other tattooed dogs? We dock tails and drastically change the appearance of many breeds’ ears — is it okay to practice other body modification “art” on our dogs?
Because the diagnosis and treatment of Cushing’s disease can be confusing, expensive, and fraught with adverse side effects, many caregivers turn to alternative or complementary therapies.
For those who prefer treatments that have been proven in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials, unconventional therapies are themselves fraught with peril. Product testimonials and anecdotal reports don’t prove anything, and by turning first to an herbal preparation or glandular extract, one might deny the patient an opportunity for effective treatment. Online reviews of nutritional supplements or herbal preparations range from reports about dogs that appear to be cured to heartbreaking stories of dogs whose condition deteriorated rapidly.
Success stories are often not documented by laboratory test results, leaving readers to wonder whether the dogs that improved so dramatically actually had Cushing’s.
At the same time, the cost of veterinary tests, surgery, or prescription drugs for a dog is sometimes simply prohibitive. Because drugs can only relieve symptoms and cannot cure Cushing’s disease or slow its progression, there is little harm in trying alternatives if your dog’s quality of life is not impacted.
For some, the decision to pursue nutritional and alternative treatments is philosophical. Holistic veterinarians look at Cushing’s disease and every other canine illness from a different perspective than do conventionally trained veterinarians. They are likely to try holistic or natural treatments first and turn to symptom-suppressing conventional therapies later instead of the other way around.
For more detailed information on the diagnosis and treatment of Cushing’s Disease, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s downloadable ebook Cushing’s Disease.
In the editorial of the August issue (now online and in your mailboxes soon), I updated the story of Mickey, an-odd-but-cute looking, high-energy dog who had somehow spent almost a year at my local shelter without finding a permanent home. (He was adopted once, for a little more than two months, but was returned because the family’s original dog was picking on him unmercifully.)
I first wrote about Mickey in this space in May, when I started working with him prior to an all-weekend Adopt-A-Thon. I taught him to sit – and in that one simple process, he learned to pay attention to humans, control his own behavior, and offer that “good manners” basic whenever someone paid attention to him. Unfortunately, he didn’t get adopted that weekend…or for the next two months.
In the August editorial, I wrote how I had taken Mickey home and then on a road trip to see some long-time friends in the Bay Area, to try to increase his exposure to more prospective homes. One of my friends, a mom with a daughter in college, a son in high school, and a teacher husband, was looking for a second dog to be a companion to the family’s 10-year-old Lab-mix, and she fell in love with Mickey at first sight. I fostered Mick for an additional week while the family finished with some home renovation tasks and got prepared for dog #2. As I wrote the editorial, I was hopeful that this would be Mickey’s forever home.
Ah, it was not to be. THIS family’s first dog also took a strong dislike to Mickey, and after the big dog made one fairly serious attack on Mickey a couple of hours into our introductory session, the family decided on the spot that the senior dog is going to his grave (we hope not for a long time!) without a second dog in the home. Everyone was shook up – even the usually buoyant Mickey.
Well, I had several backup ideas. I showed Mick to another friend. She wanted him – but her husband was not ready for a dog to replace the dog they lost a couple of years ago. “It takes a village!” I said, as an introduction was set up between Mickey and my son’s girlfriend’s aunt, who also really liked Mickey, but was concerned that his energy level would be too much for her 92-year-old mother-in-law, who lived with her and her husband.
This whole time, I was staying with my friend Maureen and her husband Dan. They were not looking for another dog. They are absolutely devoted to their 12-year-old mixed-breed, Carly. But they both enjoyed watching and interacting with Mickey in between my arranged appointments with other prospective owners, and every time I got ready to take Mickey to another one, the goodbyes got longer . . .
After Mick’s final failed appointment, Maureen could take it no longer. “We want Mickey,” she said, even though Dan looked dubious. “He’s so sweet, and smart, and cute! I think he’ll fit right in.” “He’ll be your dog,” Dan responded – but when I came back to visit the family two weeks later, Dan answered the door with Mickey in his arms, and Maureen confided, “Dan loves that little dog . . . we’re teasing him about his ‘bromance’ with Mickey; they spend a lot of time together.”
And what about Mickey’s past downfall – the “original” dog in the family, who resents his presence? It’s not happening with Carly; ever the food-motivated opportunist, she quickly realized that the little dog seemed to need training, which means treats, and she runs to volunteer as a training partner and mentor. Mickey’s training sessions spell treats for Carly, which is helping cement his place in her affections, too.
The happiest outcome of all! A home for Mickey where I can visit frequently!
The game of Tug has an undeserved bad rap in some training circles, while others, most notably the Agility world, have fully embraced it as an excellent activity to create focus and high arousal. Those two extremes aside, it’s a great game just because it’s fun, many dogs adore it, it’s the perfect play activity for human family members who might otherwise want to get in appropriately physical with the dog and it’s a terrific energy-burner.
One of the most commonly-heard myths about playing Tug is that it makes the dog “dominant.” There’s so much misinformation passed around about hierarchy in dogs – this is just another log on the fire. If you are concerned about what Tug might do to your relationship with your dog, just remember that the definition of leader is “the one who controls the good stuff,” and orchestrate your Tug-play accordingly.
I’m solidly in the pro-Tug camp. I strongly recommend setting rules for canine and human players of the game to protect against the possibility of reinforcing unwanted behaviors, but with those in place, you and your dog can Tug to your hearts’ content. The rules are general guidelines for making Tug a positive training/relationship experience. The calmer and better-behaved your dog is, the less necessary it is to follow them strictly. The more rowdy and out of control your dog, the more closely you will want to adhere to them. By the way, don’t be alarmed by your dog’s growls during tug – it’s all part of the game. As long as his other behaviors are appropriate, let him growl his heart out!
For more ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, purchase Pat Miller’s book, Play With Your Dog.
Otto has to coexist peacefully with chickens, foster dogs, and even adolescent CATS. You can tell from his expression he’s not always thrilled about the terms, but he honors the contract nonetheless.
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I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
