Prebiotics (no, it’s not a typo) nourish probiotics, the beneficial bacteria discussed last month that support digestive health, the immune system, and more. A prebiotic is defined as “a nondigestible food ingredient that beneficially affects the host by selectively stimulating the growth and/or activity of one or a limited number of bacteria in the colon and thus improves host health.”
Prebiotics are soluble, fermentable fiber, a type of nondigestible carbohydrate, also called resistant starch. Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are the most common, but other oligosaccharides, arabinogalactans, and lactulose are also considered prebiotics. Sources include inulin (a form of FOS extracted from chicory), larch (a source of arabinogalactins), pectins, beet pulp, gums (e.g., guar gum), and wheat dextrin (Benefiber).
Prebiotics are included in many probiotic supplements (the combination is called “synbiotic,” referring to the synergy between the two). Food sources of soluble fiber include legumes (beans, lentils, peas), whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes). Some commercial dog foods have added sources of soluble fiber, such as chicory. Soluble fiber supplements are also available.
Why Should Dogs Use Prebiotics?
Prebiotics support the growth of probiotics, which help keep bad bacteria under control in the dog’s gut. By supporting the good bacteria, prebiotics help to prevent disease, improve digestion and nutrient absorption (especially minerals), and enhance the immune system. Dogs fed prebiotics are less likely to get diarrhea caused by the overgrowth of bad bacteria, and soluble fiber also helps to prevent or treat diarrhea by absorbing water and slowing intestinal transit. Fed to females during pregnancy and lactation, prebiotics provide enhanced immune protection to the puppies through colostrum and milk, and the puppies have an enhanced response to vaccines.
Soluble fiber is fermented by bacteria in the colon to short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), the primary fuel for the cells of the colon. Increased concentration of SCFAs and numbers of beneficial bacteria support gastrointestinal health and the immune system.
Prebiotics may be especially beneficial for dogs with immunosuppression or digestive disorders, and for all dogs following antibiotic therapy. Studies done on rats show that prebiotics may help correct hyperlipidemia (high blood triglycerides or cholesterol) brought about by diabetes and other conditions. Human studies have shown that prebiotics may reduce the risk of colon cancer and irritable bowel disorders.
Use Care When You Give Your Dog Fiber Supplements
Prebiotics included in probiotic supplements are unlikely to cause any problems. Fiber supplements, however, should be used with caution. Too much soluble fiber can lead to gas and loose stools. Insoluble fiber (roughage), such as cellulose, speeds intestinal transit time (laxative effect) and reduces mineral absorption. Both types of fiber bulk up stools.
It’s important that dogs drink enough water when taking fiber supplements (especially insoluble fiber); add water to food if needed.
Dosing Prebiotics
Probiotics and prebiotics are best given together. Follow label instructions when using products made for dogs. When using products made for humans, adjust the dosage based on the size of your dog compared to an adult human (e.g., give about half the human dose to a dog weighing 50 to 60 pounds, or one-quarter the human dose to a dog weighing 25 to 30 pounds). If using a fiber-only supplement, start with low doses and increase gradually. Decrease the amount or switch to a different product if you see signs of gas or diarrhea.
Recommended Prebiotic Sources:
1. Thorne Veterinary’s ArabinexVET, an arabinogalactan product
Bill and Marin Corby of Romeo, Michigan, feed a homemade diet to their two rescued Cockapoos. Max, estimated to be anywhere from 6 to 9 years old, has been with them for three and a half years. Max weighed 32 pounds when first adopted, but his current weight is a healthy 20 pounds. Mickey was four months old and very sick when they first brought him home, as he had problems digesting his food. The Corbys switched Mickey to a raw diet, and he’s now thriving at 20 months of age and 16½ pounds.
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The Corbys feed a raw diet with a lot of variety. They make the food in large batches, then freeze it in 7-cup containers that hold a few days’ food each and are thawed as needed. Amounts shown below are for the complete batch, which lasts 34 days. Most ingredients are pureed in a food processor, then mixed with meat, Sojo’s, and spices in a large, shallow Rubbermaid storage container.
Each dog gets 8.5 ounces of this recipe per day (the amounts shown in parentheses are the daily amounts per dog):
–17 pounds meat (4 ounces), comprised of the following:
–15 pounds ground beef (27 percent fat), OR ground turkey (7 percent fat), OR 10 pounds venison plus 5 pounds ground beef
–1 pound heart (turkey or venison)
–1 pound liver (beef or venison)
–1 dozen eggs with shells (1/3 ounce)
–32 ounces plain, low-fat yogurt (½ ounce)
–6 cups Sojo’s Original Dog Food Mix (about 7 grams or ¼ ounce)
–10 pounds vegetables (2.4 ounces), including sweet potato, green beans, kale, broccoli, spinach, yellow squash, zucchini, butternut squash, acorn squash, and carrots. Each batch contains 2 pounds each of five different vegetables. The starchy foods (sweet potato, winter squashes, and carrots) are cooked.
–5 pounds fruit (1.2 ounces), including bananas, berries, melon, and pears.
Supplements:
–1 cup molasses (¾ teaspoon)
–1 cup organic apple cider vinegar (¾ teaspoon)
–1 Tablespoon each turmeric, garlic, and ginger
–Each dog also gets one raw, skinless duck neck daily (averaging 3 to 4 ounces each), and a squirt (about ½ teaspoon or 2 grams) of salmon oil.
First Look I was pleased to see that this diet includes a wide variety of foods, with appropriate proportions of the various food groups: approximately 30 percent raw meaty bones, 33 percent meat (including 2 percent liver), 5 percent eggs and dairy, 20 percent vegetables, 10 percent fruit, and 2 percent supplements. It provides each dog with about 550 calories daily.
I winced, however, at the high-fat ground beef. Many homemade diets, particularly raw diets, are much higher in fat than most pets need. While dogs don’t suffer from clogged arteries the way people do, too much fat can lead to obesity, digestive upset, and even pancreatitis in susceptible dogs. It can also reduce the dog’s total nutritional intake because portions must be reduced to keep the dog from becoming obese.
I like to look at grams of fat per 1,000 calories (kcal), abbreviated GFK. A diet with 25 GFK, which is about 10.5 percent fat on a dry matter basis (DM), is considered low fat, suitable for dogs prone to pancreatitis or fat intolerance. A working sled dog might eat as much as 81 GFK (about 50 percent fat DM). Most pet dogs do well with 30 to 50 grams of fat per 1,000 calories (around 13 to 25 percent fat DM), depending on their activity level, how easily they gain weight, and whether they have any problems tolerating fat.
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An analysis of this diet showed it to be over 57 GFK (30 percent fat DM), which is too high. Using 85 percent lean ground beef would drop the GFK to 51 (26 percent fat DM); 90 percent lean beef would decrease it to 48 GFK (24 percent fat DM).
The only food group missing is fish. Fish supplies vitamin D, which must otherwise be supplemented using cod liver oil or a multivitamin. The National Research Council (NRC) recommends about 100 IUs vitamin D daily for dogs weighing 20 pounds. The recommended amount of vitamin D for humans has been increasing in recent years; the same will likely happen for dogs in the future as well.
Tinkering With the Diet Adding 4 pounds (drained) of canned pink salmon or jack mackerel (about 1 ounce per dog daily) to the recipe would provide enough vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acids so that no supplementation is needed. These fish are also relatively low in fat, so 85 percent lean ground beef could be used with the recipe. Sardines are higher in fat than salmon or mackerel, so if sardines were used, I’d suggest combining them with 90 percent lean ground beef. I also recommend rinsing the canned fish if the amount of salt is a concern, and using sardines packed in water, not oil.
Using leaner beef reduces the calories in the recipe. To keep the daily calories the same, the Corbys need to increase the amount they feed by about 30 percent, to 11 ounces per dog daily. Caloric needs are always an estimate, so it’s important to keep an eye on the dogs’ weights and adjust the amount fed as needed to keep them slim and trim.
I don’t advise feeding whole eggs with shells. If the shells are needed to supply calcium, they should be ground to a powder in a clean coffee grinder to ensure that the calcium can be absorbed. One large eggshell makes 1 teaspoon of eggshell powder, which provides about 2,000 mg calcium. If the shells are not needed to supply calcium, it’s best to leave them out in order to avoid giving the dog too much calcium. Adult dogs have the ability to regulate their uptake of calcium, so excess amounts won’t cause the kind of orthopedic problems one might see in large-breed puppies, but calcium binds other minerals, so too much can reduce the nutritional quality of the diet.
There is no need to add calcium to this diet, since the duck necks supply more than enough. Without the raw meaty bones, they would need to give each dog 500 mg calcium daily.
The amount of Sojo’s mix in this diet is not significant; it would be fine to use oatmeal or other grains instead.
Poultry is high in linoleic acid, an omega-6 essential fatty acid, so there is no need to add plant oils to this diet. The amount of salmon oil that the Corbys feed is about twice what their dogs need. When fish is added to the diet as described above, there is no need for added salmon oil at all. This would improve the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids in the overall diet and lower the GFK.
All the homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been low on vitamin E, and added oils increase vitamin E requirements, so this vitamin should always be supplemented. Recent human research, however, has shown that high doses of vitamin E may be counter-productive, negating its antioxidant benefits. I recommend giving 10 to 20 IUs daily to dogs weighing 20 pounds. This is most easily done using a canine multivitamin.
Despite the excellent variety and proportions in this diet, an analysis indicates it’s slightly low in a few minerals (zinc, copper, and selenium) when compared to NRC recommendations. I’m never sure how significant this is, since the NRC bases their guidelines on commercial diets that are high in grains, and grains contain phytates that bind certain minerals. The amounts recommended by NRC may therefore be higher than are needed when feeding a homemade diet that is relatively low in carbohydrates. To be safe, though, it would be easy to give a canine multivitamin and mineral tablet to each dog daily. Most will meet requirements for vitamin E and the minerals listed above.
Summary of Recommended Changes
–Use 85 percent lean ground beef (90 percent lean if using sardines) in place of 27 percent fat.
–Add four pounds of canned fish (drained and rinsed) to the recipe and eliminate the added fish oil.
–Leave out eggshells.
–Increase total amount of recipe fed to 11 ounces per dog daily (new recipe should last 30 days). Adjust as needed to keep the dogs at their proper weights.
–Add vitamin E or a multivitamin and mineral supplement.
–Revised diet has 47 GFK (about 23 percent fat on a dry matter basis).
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Contact her via her website if you would like to submit a diet to be critiqued.
Many raw diet proponents claim that the nutrients and/or chemical composition of a raw diet keeps dogs from developing gingivitis or periodontitis. We’re not aware of any studies that have proven these claims, but the persistence of the anecdotal evidence of this phenomenon (to say nothing of its evolutionary success) suggest that there are dental benefits to a diet that includes raw, meaty bones.
Interestingly, it’s not just the physical action of the chewing; many owners, who fear the potential for bone fragments to impact or perforate their dog’s intestines, use commercial food grinders to grind raw meaty bones into a fine paste before feeding them to their dogs. Many of them report the same dental advantages as those who feed whole raw meaty bones to their dogs.
Again, there are likely to be outliers – dogs whose teeth and gums develop disease even when fed a supremely healthy raw diet.
However, it’s been our experience that people are either open to the idea of feeding a raw diet (whether commercial or home-prepared) or not; the condition of their dog’s teeth may be a contributing motivation, but not the sole factor guiding the decision.
Many people think of chewing as “just a puppy thing” but the fact is, canines in the wild spend quite a bit of time every day chewing on bones, in order to extract every last calorie and mineral they need. Our dogs have a ready food supply, so they don’t have to spend every spare moment in pursuit of every last nutrient, but the chewing behavior is hard-wired in them, anyway. Encouraging the chewing habit by providing a steady supply of appropriate chew items can promote a dog’s mental and emotional health.
Chewing also helps keep the teeth and gums clean and strong, and encourages the flow of cleansing, antibacterial saliva through the dog’s mouth.
Pups who are given the private space and leisure time to chew on a raw, meaty bone or food-stuffed toys will quickly develop the habit of spending time by themselves, chewing contentedly – and are less likely to develop separation distress or anxiety.
When pups are raised from the earliest age with ample opportunity to chew on raw meaty bones, most learn to take their time and chew in a casual manner, without damaging their teeth or bolting down over-large bone fragments. There are always outliers, however – dogs who, despite being raised with a ready supply of raw meaty bones, chew so aggressively that they are in danger of breaking teeth or swallowing dangerous chunks of bone. (The behavior is far more common, though, in dogs who were denied the pleasure of bones early in life.) If your dog is an aggressive chewer or greedily bolts any fragment of bone he can break off, he should be given a safer alternative to bones, such as a food-stuffed rubber toy. This will allow him to experience the zoned-out bliss of chewing and licking bits of food out of a safe facsimile of his hereditary chew item.
From front to back: Incisors are the little teeth in the front of the dog’s mouth. Immediately behind these are the canine teeth (fangs); behind them are the premolars and then molars. Note how the dog’s premolars and molars are mostly peaked, not mostly flat like ours. Photo by Nancy Kerns
It’s funny: We share our homes with another species of animal, whose most dangerous feature is its teeth – and most of us know little or nothing about those teeth, other than the fact that we should probably be brushing them. It’s time to correct this situation.
First, some canine dental basics. Most animals (including humans) have teeth that reflect the diet they subsisted on as they evolved. Though we humans have a few mildly sharp teeth in the front of our mouths that we can use for tearing, most of our teeth are built for grinding plant-based foods so that we can better digest them. Conversely, most of the teeth in a dog’s mouth are built for tearing animal-based foods, with just a few teeth that crush their food before they swallow it.
Dogs’ teeth are not as sharp as cats’ teeth, but their teeth and jaws are much stronger. Their dental anatomy enables them to grab and kill prey animals that may be much larger than themselves, tear through thick hides, slice and pull flesh from bones, crack open small bones in order to consume the marrow inside, and gnaw on bigger bones to strip away and consume every bit of meat and connective tissue.
Most adult dogs have 42 teeth, though our genetic manipulation of the species has resulted in dogs with fewer or more. Reportedly, the gene that is responsible for hairlessness in the hairless breeds, such as the Chinese Crested, also modifies dentition, often leaving these breeds with fewer teeth. Doberman Pinschers often are missing molars.
Most adult dogs have six incisors (front teeth) on the top jaw and six on the bottom; two canine teeth (the largest “fangs”) on the top and two on the bottom; eight premolars on the top and eight on the bottom; and two molars on the top and three molars on the bottom.
The dog uses his front teeth – the smallest and most fragile teeth – for his most delicate operations. He uses these teeth to groom himself, pulling burrs and insects from his skin and coat. He also uses them when scraping edible tissue from the surface of bones. (This is likely the evolutionary basis for the behavior that many dogs engage in when they strip the “fuzz” off of tennis balls. Some dogs do this so persistently that they wear down the incisors if not prevented from access to tennis balls.)
While the term “canine teeth” is admittedly somewhat confusing (aren’t all the teeth in a dog’s mouth canine teeth?) the appellation is somewhat understandable when you realize that the dog’s “fangs” are the most distinguishing feature of his species. Whether it’s a Chihuahua or Great Dane, a dog’s canines are the ones that look most impressive when bared, and leave the deepest holes in a person they’ve bitten.
Few of us look far enough back in our dogs’ mouths to appreciate this, but dogs’ premolars and molars are far pointier than human molars. Many of us imagine that dogs are chewing and grinding their kibble much as we chew cereal, but in fact, dog premolars and molars can’t actually grind. Grinding requires an animal’s jaws to move sideways; think about how a cow or llama grinds its food, with extreme sideways jaw action. Dog jaws can’t move sideways! Instead, the dog’s strong jaws and large peaks on the premolars and molars are used to crush large chunks into smaller ones. Not much more physical processing of their food occurs in the dog’s mouth.
As much as dogs can be said to chew, most of the chewing action is provided by the premolars. The molars, located at the far back of the mouth – where the dog has the most jaw strength, like the base of a pair of pliers – are mostly used for extreme crunching.
Puppy Tooth Eruption
We can use the timing of the eruption of puppy teeth and adult teeth to help us estimate the age of a young dog, but after he’s about eight months old and has all his adult teeth, we have to use other clues to estimate his age, such as the amount of staining, wear, and accumulation of tartar on his teeth.
This pup still has her deciduous canines (the teeth people think of as “fangs”), and some of her deciduous incisors (front “baby” teeth). Some of her adult incisors are emerging, though. She’s probably between 3 and 4 months old. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Puppies are born without teeth. The “deciduous” or “puppy” teeth start emerging when pups are about 4 weeks old. First to arrive are the front teeth (incisors, six on top and six on bottom), which emerge when the pup is 4 to 6 weeks old; the canines (two on top and two on bottom) erupt when the pup is about 5 to 6 weeks old; and the premolars (six on top and six on bottom) erupt at about 6 weeks. There are no deciduous molars.
The deciduous teeth are incredibly sharp. It has been speculated that the sharpness of puppy teeth serves to further two important developmental processes: weaning and bite inhibition. Too-vigorous biting, during nursing or play, causes an abrupt end to the previously gratifying activity, teaching the pup, through trial and grievous error, to restrict the severity of his bite. (For more about the development of bite inhibition, see “A Light Bite: Teaching Bite Inhibition,” WDJ June 2010.)
Soon enough (although perhaps not soon enough for most puppy owners), the pin-sharp puppy teeth begin to fall out – or, rather, are pushed out by the eruption of the adult teeth. The puppy teeth are generally lost in the order in which they arrived; and the adult teeth erupt in the same order: first the incisors, then the canines, and then the premolars. There is more variation in the timing of the eruption of the adult teeth, a wider window through which they may first be glimpsed. The adult incisors generally erupt between 3 to 5 months; the canines usually appear between 4 to 6 months; and the premolars between 4 to 5 months. The molars emerge between 5 and 7 months.
Sometimes a single tooth or a few deciduous teeth fail to shed even as the adult teeth erupt, resulting in a crowded-looking mouth. When this happens, it’s best to have your veterinarian extract the unshed puppy teeth, to prevent them from allowing the adult teeth to develop in an improper position.
This entire process of tooth eruption, loss, and eruption, lasting for many months, keeps the puppy’s mouth in constant torment, and he has to chew on things to relieve the sensation – hard things, soft things, chewy things, gummy things, crunchy things, anything, and everything! Knowing this, the wise puppy owner makes certain that the pup has lots of “legal” chew toys, and toys in every category (hard, soft, gummy, chewy, crunchy, and everything in between). If you fail to be thorough in providing chew toys of all textures, he’ll be sure to explore anything that you don’t want him to have that provides that missing, novel chewing experience.
Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth: Yes, You Need To
Here’s what most dog owners really want to know about their dogs’ teeth: “Do I really have to brush them?”
Although veterinary dental specialists would prefer that all owners brush their dogs’ teeth, the fact is that some dogs need it more than others. Whether it’s due to their genes, diet, chewing habits, and/or the chemical composition of their saliva, some dogs go to their graves with clean, white teeth and healthy gums with absolutely no effort put forth by their owners. Others develop tartar (also known as calculus) at an alarming rate.
The accumulation of plaque (a “biofilm” on the teeth that contains bacteria) and tartar (a mineralized concretion of plaque) is not just unsightly, it’s unhealthy. Tartar buildup at and under the gum line enables the entrance and growth of bacteria under the gums. Most dogs who have bad breath also have gingivitis – swollen and inflamed gums, usually bright red or purple, and which bleed easily. Unchecked, these bacterial infections in the gums slowly destroy the ligament and bony structures that support the teeth (periodontitis). Because of the ample blood supply to the gums, infections in the mouth can also poison the dog systemically, potentially causing disease of the heart, kidneys, and/or liver.
If your dog’s teeth are free of plaque or tartar, and his gums are tight and free of any signs of inflammation, you are one of the lucky ones. If, however, his gums are noticeably more red at the gum line and he has any visible tartar buildup on his teeth, you need to have his teeth cleaned by a veterinarian and then maintain the health of his teeth and gums with regular brushing and veterinary cleaning.
This poor dog’s dental hygiene has been severely neglected. The thick layer of tartar on her teeth has led to severe gingivitis (note the swollen, purple gums). Her incisors are practically falling out, and she’s likely to feel chronically ill from the bacterial burden she’s bearing.
If you are one of the unlucky ones, and your dog’s teeth and gums need your intervention to stay healthy, how often do you really need to brush your dog’s teeth? Put it this way: the more you brush, the less frequently you’ll need to pay for a veterinary cleaning. Whether you would prefer to invest your time in patiently training your dog to enjoy having his teeth brushed or would prefer to invest in your veterinarian’s time is up to you!
A Few Dog Tooth Brushing Tips:
– Start out slow, and be patient. Don’t try to brush all of your dog’s teeth on the first day. Use a circular motion, gently scrubbing plaque away from the gum line. Reward your dog frequently and richly with treats and praise.
– The “brushes” that you wear on your fingertips don’t tend to work as well as brushes with softer bristles – and they make it much easier for your dog to accidently bite down on your finger. Look for very soft-bristled brushes with long handles, so you can make sure you reach the molars. For larger dogs, soft brushes meant for adult humans work fine; baby human toothbrushes work well for smaller dogs.
– If your dog will tolerate it (or you can positively and patiently teach him to accept it), electric toothbrushes work great! For some dogs, however, these whirring, vibrating brushes are a deal-breaker, no matter what kind of treats you offer.
– Use a toothpaste designed for dogs. They come in flavors that are meant to appeal to dogs (meaty, not minty) – and they are free of fluoride, which can be toxic to dogs. (Remember, dogs don’t know to spit the toothpaste out!) Look for products that contain antibacterial enzymes, which help discourage bacterial growth and resulting gingivitis.
– Dip the brush in water frequently as you brush, to help rinse the plaque away from your dog’s teeth, and to facilitate a thorough application of the antibacterial enzymes in the toothpaste.
Get to a Veterinarian
It can be painfully expensive, but the value of having your dog’s calculus-encrusted teeth cleaned at your veterinarian’s office is incalculable! The only way all of his teeth (even the molars) can be scrubbed completely of the tartar, above and below the gums, is under general anesthesia. This must be done at a veterinary clinic.
Whether due to the cost or the perceived risk of anesthesia, people want so much to believe that there is another way to get the dog’s teeth clean. Once a dog has a lot of tartar on his teeth, though, the only effective treatment is a professional cleaning under anesthesia. Once his teeth are clean, you can prevent the need for further veterinary cleaning only through scrupulous home care (brushing) – but you just can’t brush a tartar-encrusted mouth back to health. For one thing, you can’t (and shouldn’t try) to brush under the dog’s gums; this area is cleaned at the vet’s office with sterile instruments and with the use of a fine mist of water, which washes the bacteria out of the dog’s mouth. The ultrasonic (vibrating) tools available to the technician are also much faster and more accurate than any tool you would have access to.
What about “anesthesia-free” cleaning? Witnessing a veterinary cleaning, with the dog under anesthesia, is pretty much all you need to realize that no one is capable of doing what needs to be done to get a fully conscious dog’s teeth really clean. The most cooperative dog in the world just isn’t going to lie down on a table under necessarily super bright lights (so the technician can thoroughly examine the teeth for any signs of chips or painful fractures) and allow a vibrating, misting tool to be employed on his molars.
Further, in most states, it’s illegal for anyone to use a scaler on an animal’s teeth except under the supervision of a veterinarian. While there are many technicians and groomers who may be capable of removing some dental calculus from your dog’s teeth, only a veterinarian is qualified and equipped to recognize, diagnose, and treat any related (or unrelated) conditions the dog may have, such as fractured teeth or oral cancer. If his periodontal disease is advanced, x-rays will be needed to evaluate the supporting structures of the teeth.
Of course, in order to safely anesthetize your dog, your veterinarian will likely require a blood test in advance of the cleaning appointment, to evaluate your dog’s kidney and liver function. If his function is reduced, extra precautions and perhaps a different anesthetic protocol can be used.
Depending on your dog’s age and condition, your veterinarian may also administer intravenous fluids to your dog during the procedure, which can help regulate the dog’s blood pressure. The presence of an IV catheter and proper hydration levels also make it possible for a veterinarian to immediately administer life-saving medications in case of an adverse reaction to the anesthesia. In an emergency, the use of calcium, epinephrine, and/or atropine needs to occur as quickly as possible; having an IV in place makes this possible.
Finally, veterinarians can prescribe and dispense antibiotics to help your dog fight off any bacteria that was dislodged by the cleaning and absorbed into his bloodstream, as well as provide any sort of consultation or aftercare needed. The price tag of all of this can be large – and it can vary a lot from vet to vet, ranging from $400 to $1,400 (or even more if the dog requires tooth extractions).
After all this, you’ll probably be motivated to give that toothbrushing a try. Do it now, while you’re good and motivated; it could add years to your dog’s life.
There’s nothing like a good dog-pack hike to give our canine companions an opportunity to have fun with their peers and run themselves into a happy state of exhaustion – provided there are no bullies in the group. Just like human bullies on a school playground, canine bullies take the fun out of the game, put everyone on edge, and bring to the party a real risk of physical as well as psychological damage. A dog who is bullied, especially at a young age, can quickly develop a negative association with other dogs and become defensively aggressive as a result.
My love affair with group dog hikes goes back to my days working at the Marin Humane Society in California. Employees were allowed to bring dogs to work with them, and many a lunch hour found several of us hiking together. I don’t recall incidents of bullying from those days, perhaps because our dogs were well socialized from their “go-to-work” privileges, perhaps due to selective memory, or perhaps because of my blissful relative ignorance of canine behavior in those early days. But bullying is a very real possibility anytime a group of dogs gets together – at dog parks, daycare, at organized or impromptu play sessions, or when multiple dogs live together in the same household.
I recently invited all our Peaceable Paws trainers to come for a dog-pack hike on our 80-acre campus in conjunction with one of our occasional trainer meetings. We hike before our meetings so our four-legged pals are too tired to pester us while we plan future Peaceable Paws events and debrief past ones. As you might expect, the canine participants in this group were varied and enthusiastic, including a German Shepherd/Rottweiler-mix, an American Pit Bull Terrier, a pair of Dachshunds, a hound-mix, a Labrador Retriever, a Border Collie, a Miniature Pinscher, and two of my own dogs: Lucy the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and Missy the Australian Shepherd.
Much as I love a good group hike, I was dismayed when, throughout the hike, Lucy demonstrated a strong penchant for bullying Belle, the very soft, extremely appeasing Border Collie belonging to Peaceable Paws trainer Beth Joy.
Bullying – an inappropriate canine behavior – is often misidentified as “dominance.” Much has been said lately in the dog world about dominance, but the short version of the discussion is that, while dominance is a correct term for a very narrow selection of appropriate social behaviors, it is not a correct term for a wide range of inappropriate social behaviors that include bullying and aggression. (See “Alpha Schmalpha,” WDJ December 2011.)
Although the “bully” term isn’t found in most behavior literature, in her excellent book, Fight!, trainer and author Jean Donaldson defines bullying dogs – not to be confused with “Pit Bull-type dogs” – as those dogs for whom “roughness and harassment of non-consenting dogs is quite obviously reinforcing.” Like the human bully on the school playground, the bully dog gets a kick out of tormenting less-assertive members of his playgroup. Donaldson says, “They engage at it full tilt, with escalating frequency, and almost always direct it at designated target dogs.” Target dogs are most likely to be those who, like Belle, are non-assertive and quickly offer exaggerated appeasement signals. Appeasement signals are meant to cut off another dog’s overly assertive behavior, but with bullies, it just seems to egg on the bullying behavior.
Like all behavior, bullying is a combination of genetics and environment. A dog who becomes a bully is born with a genetic predisposition to be reinforced by another dog’s appeasing response to his socially overbearing behavior, just as a Border Collie finds it reinforcing to chase things that move, or a Lab is reinforced by holding things in his mouth.
If a pup or a young dog has an opportunity to test a bully behavior strategy on another pup or dog who offers a satisfyingly appeasing response, the behavior has been reinforced and the bully-to-be is more likely to attempt the behavior again, perhaps more forcefully (inappropriately) the next time. If, however, his early attempts at bullying are ignored, or squashed by a more assertive response from his intended targets, the bully behavior may never develop. Hence, bullying, like other undesirable behaviors, is easiest to modify early on, before the dog has a long and strong reinforcement history for the behavior.
Playing v. Bullying It can be difficult for some owners to differentiate between appropriate rough play and bullying. Some may think that perfectly acceptable play behavior is bullying because it involves growling, biting, and apparently pinning the playmate to the ground. Appropriate play can, in fact, look and sound quite ferocious. The difference is in the response of the playmate.
If both dogs appear to be having a good time and no one’s getting hurt, it’s usually fine to allow the play to continue. Thwarting your dog’s need to play by stopping him every time he engages another dog in rough-but-mutually-agreeable play, can lead to other behavior problems, including aggression, from the frustration of not being able to fulfill his desire for social interaction.
I recently saw a couple for a private consult who had added a third dog to their happy family, and now everyone was miserable. The wife was stressed because she thought the dogs were playing too roughly; the husband was stressed because he thought the dogs should be allowed to play together; the senior dog (10 years old) was stressed because he didn’t like the new young upstart (1 year old) playing with his canine pal (5 years old); and the two younger dogs were stressed because they weren’t being allowed to play together.
I watched the two younger dogs interact while the husband restrained the elder to keep him out of the mix. Their play was lovely to watch. Rough, yes, with lots of “chew-face,” growling, and body-slamming, but perfectly appropriate. Both dogs were fully engaged in play, and each, when given the opportunity, chose to come back and re-engage. After a full 90 minutes of non-stop play, they finally ended the session of their own accord and lay happily panting on the floor, at which point the senior dog, who was indeed very tense about the high-energy play session, was also able to relax. So was the wife.
I reassured the couple that there was no bullying happening here, and that they were fortunate the two younger dogs would be able to play together regularly. What a great way to provide exercise for the young, energetic dogs! Over time, the intensity of their play would likely diminish somewhat, as they were allowed to “get it out of their system.” A bigger challenge was the senior dog. They would need to remove him from the play area when the other two were playing, and/or implement a behavior modification counter-conditioning program to help the elder dog become comfortable with the younger dogs’ play.
Modifying Bully Behavior If you do have a dog who is bullying others, you may be able to successfully modify the behavior, especially if you start young. If not, you will need to always manage his behavior by selecting playmates for him who don’t fall into the “target” category. Successful modification of bullying behavior requires:
1. Skilled application of intervention tools and techniques: Use leashes, long lines, “no-reward markers” (NRMs), and time-outs to prevent and remove reinforcement for inappropriate play behavior.
2. Excellent timing of intervention: Prompt application of NRMs and time-outs will let your dog know exactly what behavior makes the fun stop.
3. Reinforcement for appropriate behavior: Allow play to continue or resume when the bullying dog is calm and can play nice.
4. Selection of appropriate play partners: Dogs who are not intimidated or traumatized by bullying behavior, and who don’t take offense by fighting back, may be appropriate playmates for bullies.
The most appropriate human intervention for bullying is the use of negative punishment, in which the dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away. Negative punishment, in this case a time-out, works best for bullying behavior in conjunction with a “no-reward maker” (NRM) or “punishment” marker.
The opposite of the clicker (or other reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”), the NRM tells the dog, “That behavior made the good stuff go away!” With bullying, the good stuff is the opportunity to play with the other dog. Just as the clicker or other reward marker always means a treat is coming, the NRM always means the good stuff goes away; it’s not to be used repeatedly as a threat or warning!
My preferred NRM, the one I teach and use if/when necessary, is the word “Oops!” rather than the word “No!” The word “No!” is often used by dog owners to deliberately shut down behavior. It’s also usually delivered firmly or harshly – and unfortunately, often followed by physical punishment. In contrast, “Oops!” simply means, “You made a wrong behavior choice; the good stuff is going away.” Deliver your NRM in a cheerful or neutral, non-punitive tone of voice; your intent is not to intimidate your dog with the no-reward marker. Thus my choice of “Oops!” – it’s almost impossible to say the word harshly. Try it!
Timing is just as important with your NRM as it is with your reward marker. It says, “Whatever you were doing the exact instant you heard the ‘Oops!’ is what earned the time-out.” You’ll use it the instant your dog starts bullying. Then grasp his leash or drag-line (a long, light line attached to his collar) and calmly remove him from play. Don’t repeat the NRM. Give him at least 20 seconds to calm down, more if he needs it, then release him to go play again. If several time-outs don’t dampen the behavior even slightly, make them longer and make sure he’s calm prior to returning to play. If a half-dozen time-outs have absolutely no effect, end the play session for the day. If the NRM does stop the bullying, thank your dog for responding, and allow him to continue playing under direct supervision as his reward.
Another approach to bully modification that is sometimes effective requires access to an appropriate “neutral dog” who is confident enough to withstand the bully’s assault without being traumatized or responding with inappropriate aggression in return. A flash of the pearly whites as a warning is fine. A full-out dogfight is not. It’s important to watch closely during interactions with the bully. Any sign the neutral dog is becoming unduly stressed by the encounters should bring the session to an immediate halt. A neutral dog may be able to modify your bully’s behavior, and have it transfer to other dogs – or not. If not, you may be able to find one or two sturdy, neutral dogs who can be your dog’s play companions, and leave the softer dogs to gentler playpals. Not all dogs get along with all other dogs – and that’s perfectly normal.
Managing My Bully We managed Lucy and Belle on our dog-pack hike by putting a lot of space between them, and by keeping Lucy occupied with chasing a stick (one of her favorite activities). Since Belle was more than happy to keep her distance from Lucy, we only had to body-block Lucy a few times when we saw her zeroing in on her target. The after-hike meeting was without incident; I put Lucy back in the house so Belle could hang out, worry-free, with the rest of the dogs.
Holistic dog care . . . It sounds so trendy, so green, so Whole Foods. But it’s not as cut and dried as it sounds: You don’t just add bottled water and get Andrew Weil. Developing a holistic approach to your dog’s care is a process … a process of self-discovery on your part, leavened with lots of trial and error.
The real meaning of “holistic,” of course, is doing what’s right for your individual dog – and for you, taking into account your circumstances, lifestyle, budget, and beliefs. There is no template to follow, other than: Know your dog – and yourself.
Little more than a decade ago, inspired by a skinny, diarrhea-plagued puppy, I started exploring a new way of feeding my dogs. From there, I shifted my attitudes about vaccination, veterinary care, even training. It didn’t happen overnight: I made plenty of mistakes, and I continue to learn and grow and evolve my approach.
Here are 10 things I learned along the way. A lot of them are common sense, others may sound “woo-woo” if you’re not in a place where you’re receptive. And that’s okay, because the whole point of this journey we’re on is that your mileage can – and should – vary.
1. Get (Many) Tips from Successful Holistic Dog Handlers
I’m not going to compare feeding my first raw doggie meal to having to swallow centipedes on “Fear Factor,” but the undeniable truth is that many people feel trepidation on a Jungian scale when they begin to tinker with their dog’s diet. Many are anxious at just the thought of changing brands – “Will he get diarrhea? What I am I going to do with this $45 bag of food if he does?” – let alone feeding something as “out there” as raw meat. You visualize the microbes crawling all over the dish. You mentally plot your course to the nearest emergency clinic when . . . When what? When the ground opens and your beloved pooch is swallowed up, Hades-style?
The biggest antidote to that hollow-stomached, lung-squeezing sensation of not knowing if you are doing the right thing is finding people who have done it – successfully. In this, the Internet is a great place to find kindred spirits. They’ve been there, done that. Their experiences can reassure you. The biggest problem with turning to such people for comfort is that they’re so accustomed to doing what they’re doing that it’s now second nature – they don’t see it as any big deal. But it is a big deal to you, and having someone to talk to and compare notes with often makes the difference between plucking up your courage and blazing forward – or just abandoning ship and continuing with what hasn’t worked.
2. Don’t Worry About the What-Ifs
All this isn’t to say that any “holistic” course that you take – whether it’s raw feeding or minimal vaccination or “alternative” therapies, from Chinese medicine to chiropractic – is entirely safe. Everything comes with a degree of risk, including that bag of kibble, that syringe of attenuated live virus, that dose of prednisone.
We have no idea what tomorrow brings, and worrying about it is not only a waste of time, but – some would argue – only serves to roll out the welcome mat. I suppose when I walk down the street in Manhattan, a piano could fall on me. That doesn’t mean the risk of falling pianos outweighs the rewards of catching a Broadway show.
The doggie equivalent of 42nd Street is a walk in the woods. I know of dogs who have literally impaled themselves on sticks in their gorgeous frolicking abandon that is a wild race through a crunchy-leafed trail. This doesn’t mean that you never walk in the woods together, or that you do a stick sweep of the area. It just means you balance the risk with the reward of a gorgeous day out getting exercise and stimulation, and you decide accordingly. (And if your dog does impale herself, as counterintuitive as it sounds, don’t remove the stick. Just get her to a vet – any kind of vet.)
It’s easy to say, “Don’t get overwhelmed with the ‘what ifs'” – especially if, as luck would have it, a “what if” has actually happened to you before. But when making any important decisions in life, your mind has to be clear. And obsessing over what could go wrong – as opposed to weighing risks calmly and rationally – dooms you to failure before you even start. In order to successfully make a decision about your dog’s care, it has to feel good to you. Find a way to make that happen – which, for many, sounds easier than it actually is.
3. Pick 1 Holistic Dog Care Practice to Start
The great thing about complementary and alternative medicine is that there are so many options, so many different healing traditions available. That’s also the most frustrating thing: How do you know what route to choose? What’s the best way to treat your dog’s problem? Homepathy? Flower essences? Essential oils? Acupuncture? Kinesiology? I can’t even spell it, much less wrap my brain around it.
In this, research can take you only so far. If you’ve narrowed your search down to a few modalities that keep coming up over and over again, just pick one. Maybe you’ve heard about a local veterinarian who specializes in one particular modality. Maybe you have a friend who had great success using another. (See revelation #1.) Maybe – and I don’t diminish the power of this for one moment – one just “feels” right. Whatever your rationale, as those sneaker commercials exhort: Just do it.
Sometimes, of course, things don’t work out. When one of my dogs developed an ear hematoma, I researched how best to treat the growing, sausage-sized, blood-filled lump on his ear. I came across very few holistic options, and none of the conventional treatments – surgery to “quilt” the ear, cannula implants to drain the fluid – sounded appealing.
“Acupuncture!” I thought, and I made an appointment with a vet whose success with Chinese medicine I had long heard about. But during our consult, I was made to understand why acupuncture didn’t come up as an option for these annoying blood blisters of the ear: It doesn’t work on them. “Chinese medicine is not good for everything,” the vet shrugged. Lesson learned.
Blitz’s ear eventually did heal, as wizened and cauliflowered as any old prize fighter’s. But that visit was not a waste of time or money: It established a relationship between me and that vet, and taught me the limits of his modality. Today, 12-year-old Diva and I are regulars, and the vet’s herbal formulations are doing wonders for her degenerative disc disease. Trial and error – and all I ask is that I learn something from the error.
4. Keep a Dog Journal
In these Facebooking times, it seems that every meal we eat, every television show we watch, every speck of minutia in our daily lives is broadcast to the world. But you’re only as good as your last post or share, and sometimes, in the flood of all that information, and the relentless scroll of the News Feed, the most important thing is lost: continuity and context.
Holistic veterinarian Christina Chambreau has a great idea that too few owners follow: Keep a journal for each of your dogs. You don’t have to write in it religiously, but make a notation of things that may seem different or noteworthy: increased water consumption, changes in coat color or texture, seemingly minor health issues like a passing ear infection, sleeping later than usual, eating more ravenously, unusual discharge (from any of a number of places!), an odd odor (my son maintains that one of my Ridgebacks smells like pancakes, which may not be journal-worthy, but I still like hearing it).
Those little scraps of information – impressions, mostly – are fleeting and seemingly insignificant on a day-to-day basis, but taken as a whole they can illuminate patterns that can help in managing your dog’s health. For example, my dogs’ journals showed that bleeding ear tips – and by extension that annoying hematoma – happen mostly in winter. Turned out our toasty house was drying out the dogs’ skin, which made them more itchy, which made them shake more, which increased the likelihood they’d whack a flapjack ear on a table corner. The solution? A pan of water on the radiator in each room.
5. Prevention is the Best Medicine
Most alternative healing modalities believe that disease is a manifestation of deeper imbalances. Rather than treat the symptoms you must go deeper and bring things into equilibrium.
The easiest thing to do, of course, is to make sure that the imbalance doesn’t occur to begin with. That requires a strong, clean foundation: good food, good water, adequate exercise, mental stimulation, and a safe, toxin-free environment.
That last requirement was missing with a dog I bred. He was naturally reared, raw-fed, and minimally vaccinated, but since puppyhood, he was beset with all kinds of allergic reactions – red ear flaps, rashes on his undersides, puffy eye rims. He had every test under the sun, hypoallergenic diets, and nothing worked.
The dog lived in a rented house on a canal that had been flooded multiple times, and instinctively I thought: mold. When a new puppy arrived on the scene (from a different litter) she too started getting itchy and scratchy.
The family moved – far from the water this time – and at last report, the itchiness was receding. Good news not just for the dog, but his family as well: Dogs are our sentinels, and what unbalances their bodies and their health is a risk to ours, too.
6. Does the Vet Stay in the Picture?
In a perfect world, you and your vet would be one – cue babbling brook and clinking wind chimes – when it comes to your dog’s holistic care. If you have a relationship of respect and equality, any differences of opinion are more than surmountable.
But personality conflicts sometimes can create havoc with this relationship, all the more so if your conventional vet is unfamiliar with or suspicious of alternative modalities.
A common first reaction – especially if you encounter resistance – is to think about just leaving your vet, but sometimes you’re better off with the devil you know: There may not be a holistic vet nearby, and you may not click with him or her, either. Some holistic vets do not provide “nuts and bolts” holistic dog care, but rather operate more of a specialty-based practice. And remember that geography doesn’t have to be an issue: You can supplement your conventional vet’s knowledge with a phone consultation with a more holistic-minded practitioner.
I’ve found that a two-prong approach works best in having your dog treated holistically by a conventionally minded vet: You need to have respect and regard for your veterinarian’s expertise, and you need to become educated about the approach you are advocating.
Part of having respect for the veterinarian is making her aware of what treatments you are pursuing outside of her office – nobody likes surprises. And becoming educated about holistic medicine means acknowledging the risks as well as the advantages. If you want to follow a less aggressive vaccine protocol, for example, tell the vet up front that you are aware there is a risk of not vaccinating for X, but here is your rationale for why the pros do not outweigh the cons. Remember that vets are human, too, and direct experience often informs their reactions: Treating just one case of parvo can make a vet super-sensitive about vaccinating lightly against the disease; being blamed by clients when things go wrong is another reason for a reflexive reluctance to try new things.
To put it bluntly, often what you are up against is the combined stupidity of all your vets’ other clients, those who can’t or won’t follow directions, screw up even the most basic instructions, and are quick to blame everyone else when things don’t go just right. There aren’t enough people willing to do the research and go the extra mile to provide the kind of care you are advocating for your dog. When your vet realizes that, chances are you’ll see a change of attitude, too.
7. Do What You Can
It’s the height of irony that while a holistic approach is supposed to be about doing what’s best for the individual dog – and the human who is charged to care for him – that so much criticism can be leveled for not “doing it right.”
But holism isn’t an all-or-nothing approach: Even if you’re limited by what you can do, that doesn’t mean you do nothing at all. Feel good about what you can do; don’t focus on what you can’t do.
For example, I’d be lying if I said that I thought raw feeding wasn’t the best way to feed most dogs: It’s natural, bioavailable, and species-appropriate. I’ve seen a difference not only between dogs fed kibble and those that are raw fed, but also between dogs that have their food cooked as opposed to fed raw. Raw, in my experience, always comes out ahead, hands down.
But that doesn’t mean everyone is in a position to feed this way. Budget and supply come into play. Maybe there are infants or immune-compromised individuals in the household. Maybe someone just isn’t ready to take the leap.
Similarly, even if you are an ardent supporter of minimal vaccination, if you live in a microclimate where, say, lepto-spirosis is circulating, you might opt to protect your dog against that disease, despite the limitations of the vaccine, its relatively short duration, and concerns about its side effects.
Giving a lepto vaccine doesn’t invalidate your holism any more than feeding a high-quality kibble does. You do the best you can, with the resources you have, at the pinprick of time that you are living in. Don’t let anybody make you feel otherwise.
8. Avoid Extremes in Holism
Our animals, our bodies, our energy fields, crave balance, and that’s what we should strive for in caring for our dogs. On the one hand, be consistent: Give modalities a chance to work. Remember that problems take a while to brew and manifest, and so they can take a spell of time to resolve, too.
At the same time, don’t get stuck in a rut. Changing up every once in a while isn’t just a good idea, it’s a necessity. Rotating food sources, exercise patterns, and herbal supplements is important. As opportunistic omnivores, dogs are biologically programmed for variety. Their bodies crave it, and if we are to develop one habit, it is to remind ourselves in our busy lives to give it to them.
9. Fresh Air, Good Light, the Time and Room to Run Free…
Every time I am tempted to overthink or overdo things, I pick up a copy of Juliette de Bairacli Levy’s The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, first published in 1955. Long before it became fashionable to feed locally or organically, de Bairacli Levy was there, sharing the wisdom she learned from the Gypsies, Berbers, and Bedouins.
In this day and age, when we expect precise directions and how-tos, her books can seem quaint. But there is powerful wisdom in them, reminders that the less interference we place between our animals and their source energy, the better off they are. De Bairacli Levy is one of the few authors who bothers to talk about the importance of sunshine in rearing healthy dogs. Fresh air, good light, the time and room to run free . . . I am reading The Secret Garden to my children at bedtime, and these are precisely the things that transformed the cranky, coddled twosome in the story, Mary and Colin, into healthy youngsters. They are as crucial as food in that regard. And sometimes we need pragmatists such as de Bairacli Levy to remind us of the basics.
“I pray you who own me, let me continue to live close to Nature,” de Bairacli Levy wrote on behalf of the dogs. “Know that: I love to run beneath the sun, the moon, and the stars; I need to feel the storm winds around me, and the touch of rain, hail, sleet, and snow; I need to splash in streams and brooks, and to swim in ponds, lakes, rivers, and seas; I need to be allowed to retain my kinship with Nature.”
It is no coincidence, I think, that de Bairacli Levy’s line of Turkuman Afghan Hounds was so sought-after, and no mere happenstance that the stock she sent to the United States went on to produce a dynasty of the world’s most beautiful and biggest-winning Afghan Hounds.
10. Believe in Intention
Here we are at number 10, the most diffuse and hardest to grasp of these lessons, because it’s one that you feel your way to.
Early on, a good friend of mine who I consider a wonderful healer told me, “Intention is important.” In other words, wanting to make your dog well is an important part of getting there. I thought that was kind of obvious: Who doesn’t want their dog to get better?
Then I learned more about vibrational medicine, about the power of thoughts and feelings, and about the law of attraction, which created a big buzz a few years ago but which was brought home more powerfully to me in the Abraham work of Esther and Jerry Hicks. (Google them if the names are unfamiliar: The premise behind their work is a little “out there” for many, but make like a buffet, take what you like, and leave the rest.)
Yes, you can want your dog to be well, but that intention can be so clouded and weighed down with worry about things not going right, with visions of worst-case scenarios, with fear and doubt, that it defeats the purpose.
My outcomes are always best when I envision what I want for my dog, let go of any underlying wanting that feels desperate or forced, and just proceed in the moment, not fast-forwarding to dissect any of the what-ifs.
The best way I can describe it is knowing how I want things to be, acknowledging that in the end I have no control over how they actually will be, but deciding that things will work out fine regardless. No more thinking beyond that, which is the tough part.
It’s sort of like watching a movie: I am invested in the outcome, know I want person A to fall for person B, but don’t micromanage my expectation of every scene. In the end, Spielberg never disappoints, anyway – even when the ending is not what I envisioned.
Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three generations of Ridgebacks, three 8-year-olds, and a very patient husband.
Contained in every puppy’s mouth is a set of amazingly sharp little daggers known as “teeth.” Puppies explore the world with those mouths. Since you are part of your pup’s world, it is inevitable that those sharp little teeth will at some point come in contact with your tender skin during a behavior known as “puppy biting.” It hurts. So what should you do when your puppy bites you, or other family members (including children)? This is a good opportunity to train your puppy not to bite.
1. Keep it friendly. Use negative punishment – your pup’s behavior (biting) makes a good thing (you) go away. Say “Oops!” in a calm, cheerful tone of voice, stand up and turn your back on your pup for several seconds. Then interact with him again. Repeat as often as necessary. (Remember, dogs learn through repetition.) Appropriate play keeps the fun going, inappropriate biting makes the fun stop. Since your pup is all about fun, he’ll learn to inhibit his biting in order to keep you playing.
Ignore old-fashioned suggestions you might hear about holding his mouth closed, pushing his cheek into his mouth so he bites himself, or shoving your fingers down his throat. He’s not challenging your leadership when he bites you. If you respond with violence you risk damaging your relationship and making him become violent. He’s just playing, and doesn’t know his own tooth-power. By the way, yelping like another puppy in pain to communicate in “his” language causes many puppies to get more excited and bite more, not less. I don’t recommend it. Stick with a cheerful “Oops” to get your message across.
2. Tolerate less-painful mouthing. Since puppies put their mouths on everything it may be necessary to tolerate less-painful mouthing and only do your “Oops!” routine for bites that actually hurt. Over time you can shape for softer and softer bites, and finally for no mouthing at all.
3. Let the kids play with the puppy during his quiet times. All pups develop a daily routine – times of day when they are more aroused and bitey, and times when they are less mouthy. Identify the less-mouthy times of your pup’s cycle and have that be the kids’ puppy playtime. For extra insurance, be sure your baby dog has been well exercised before turning him loose on the children. Supervise all child/puppy play so you can intervene if things get out of hand, and make sure to teach your children how to respond properly if your puppy bites them.
4. Direct your pup’s mouth to appropriate bite objects. In a strategic spot in every room, keep a stash of plush toys your pup can sink his teeth into – in place of your arm. Keep a supply of stuffed Kongs in the freezer to occupy his puppy daggers. Try to anticipate his mouthy behavior and offer him a toy before he grabs your sleeve (or your flesh), but don’t hesitate to offer a toy as an alternative even after he’s latched onto you.
A flirt pole is a great toy for you or your children to safely play with your bitey puppy. This is a long, sturdy stick with a rope fastened to the end, and a toy tied to the rope. By moving the toy around you invite the puppy’s interest (and teeth) to engage a safe distance from your body parts. If necessary, you can stash your child safely behind a baby gate, in a playpen or inside a low exercise pen, flirt pole in hand, to keep her safe from wandering puppy teeth. (A good source for this training toy: bestdogkennel.com/product/TR-FP. Note: Ignore this website’s instructions for teaching “Give.” Just trade the toy for a treat.)
5. Teach “Find it!” This one is perfect for the pup who grabs your bathrobe, pant legs, or ankles as you’re walking. Rule #1: Always have treats in your pockets/on your person. Corollary to Rule #1: Have plastic containers filled with small but tasty dog treats in every room of the house (but out of pup’s reach) so you can reload when you’re running low.
As you walk, keep an eye out for puppy ambushes. When your pup approaches you with that “Gotta grab something!” gleam in his eye, toss a treat on the ground a few feet away from you and say “Find it!” Keep tossing “Find it!” treats until you can gain access to a soft toy or other chew object to offer him. Or keep playing “Find it” until he’s too tired to grab you. Mission accomplished.
Remember: It gets better after your pup is six months old and has all his adult teeth. He may still occasionally put his teeth on you, but at least it won’t hurt as much!
Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that live in the digestive tract. There are a variety of different species belonging to genera that include Lactobacillus, Bifidobacterium, Streptococcus, and Enterococcus (often abbreviated by first initial only in names). Some species, such as Lactobacillus, live primarily in the small intestine, while others, such as Bifidobactera, reside in the large intestine (colon).
The Benefits of Probiotics
All dogs can benefit from probiotics, which aid digestion and modulate the immune system. Probiotics produce short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), which inhibit the growth and activity of harmful bacteria, such as E. coli, Salmonella, and Clostridium perfringens, as well as providing other benefits to the intestines. Human studies have documented the effectiveness of certain strains in treating diarrhea, irritable bowel, and intestinal inflammation (fewer studies have been conducted on dogs). Probiotics may help prevent urinary tract infections, and can even reduce allergic reactions by decreasing intestinal permeability and controlling inflammation.
Species with specific strains known to benefit dogs include Enterococcus faecium (strain SF68) and Bacillus coagulans. Bifidobacterium animalis (strain AHC7) has been shown to reduce the time for acute diarrhea to resolve in dogs. Certain strains of Lactobacillus acidophilus improve frequency and quality of stools in sensitive dogs. Lactobacillus rhamnosus strain GG (LGG) is effective in preventing and treating diarrhea in humans, and may benefit dogs as well. Probiotic products may contain one or several strains.
Cautions: Some probiotic species require refrigeration in order to remain viable; follow label recommendations for storage. It’s questionable how many survive passage through stomach acid into the digestive tract, and whether they then colonize or must be continually replenished.
Many products, particularly those that are not refrigerated, contain fewer live organisms than their labels claim. Freeze-dried probiotics may last longer than refrigerated or other powdered products, especially if the powder is exposed to moisture (such as when the container is opened and closed). Probiotics in commercial foods may not survive processing or storage. Probiotic products should always provide an expiration date.
Dosing Probiotics for Dogs
Probiotics are measured by colony forming units (CFUs). Few studies have been done to determine effective dosages, but these numbers are usually in the hundreds of millions or higher. If probiotics are being used to help with digestion, they should be taken with meals, but otherwise they may survive better if given between meals, particularly if taken with liquid that helps to dilute stomach acid and move them more quickly into the digestive tract (maybe give them after your dog takes a big drink). Probiotics may be given short-term or long-term.
When using products intended for dogs, follow label suggestions for dosage. When using human products, give the full dosage to dogs weighing 40 pounds or more. Reduce the dosage for smaller dogs or if you see loose stools.
Best Probiotics for Dogs:
Examples of canine probiotic formulas that include strains known to benefit dogs:
Several people whose dogs have serious digestive disorders, including small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO), have told us of success using Primal Defensewith homeostatic soil organisms, made by Garden of Life. Products made for humans can also be given to dogs. Yogurt and kefir with live cultures often contain lactobacillus acidophilus, and sometimes other species as well, but dosages are usually lower than those in supplements.
PROBIOTICS FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW
1. Give your dog a probiotic supplement that offers a variety of strains of beneficial bacteria.
2. Nourish those “good guy” bacteria with a prebiotic supplement.
3. Monitor your dog’s weight, the condition of his coat, his energy level, and the quality of his daily stool for signs that his diet needs to be adjusted in some way. What works well for some dogs may not benefit another dog in other circumstances.
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Straus and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Jennifer L. Amundsen Solheim, Billing & Grimmer, S.C. Madison, WI (608) 282-1200 sbglaw.com facebook.com/dogsavvylawyer
What are the advantages of engaging the services of an attorney with experience in dog-related issues?
Due to his or her familiarity with the issues that are likely to arise, an attorney with experience in dog-related issues may be able to help resolve a dog-related matter in a more efficient (thus, more cost-effective) manner than an attorney without such experience.
How do you suggest people find attorneys with dog-related experience?
Contact your local kennel club; they often publish a directory of service providers in their areas. Alternatively, state bar associations may have an online directory that is searchable by practice area or key word, or a referral service that can help to connect a potential client to a lawyer with relevant experience. Although distance should be taken into account (attorney licensure is handled on a state-by-state basis), relevant experience is important to ensure efficiency, as well as appropriate focus on any dog-specific issues that are a part of the case.
How does your knowledge and/or experience with animal law make the difference for your clients?
When I prepare contracts or estate planning documents for a client, my knowledge and experience with dogs and the dog community allows me to speak the client’s language and ensures that I share the client’s understanding of what is customary within his or her community. It also allows me to anticipate the types of issues that may arise in a given matter and to help the client to be comprehensive in his or her planning.
For example, when preparing an estate plan, I can ask relevant questions that may help a pet owner or breeder communicate the goals he or she hopes to achieve through the planning process, which will almost certainly include protecting pets in the event of the client’s death but can also include other goals such as transferring items related to a breeder’s longstanding breeding program.
Dane E. Johnson Animal Law Office of Dane E. Johnson Portland, OR (800) 714-3204 or (503) 975-8298 OregonAnimalLawAttorney.com AnimalsAttorney.com
What are the advantages of engaging the services of an attorney with experience in dog-related issues?
Cases involving dogs present several important legal issues depending on the practice area. A case of injury caused by a dog bite, for example, requires knowledge of how a canine guardian’s responsibility is regulated under applicable law. A case involving harm or death of a dog, such as an intentional injury or veterinary malpractice, requires knowledge of how the applicable jurisdiction measures a dog’s value for damages purposes. Some states limit a dog’s value to the cost of a replacement animal. Others allow the dog’s guardian to present evidence of its special qualities and characteristics.
Many people consider dogs as family members, but courts and codes still generally define them as nothing more than property. An attorney familiar with the statutes, regulations, and legal precedents establishing the landmarks in dog law should be well equipped to argue for legal treatment of dogs that reflects their real place in our lives.
How do you suggest people find attorneys with dog-related experience?
Animal law is a growing practice area, but attorneys focusing on animal-related legal issues are still relatively few. Some state bar associations have an animal law section and may be able to refer people to lawyers licensed in the relevant jurisdiction who have at least an interest in dog-related matters. Finding a lawyer with significant dog-related experience may be challenging.
Finding an animal law lawyer is not absolutely necessary for a case. An attorney who specializes in personal injuries or injury to property should be able to handle a dog bite or veterinary malpractice case. But the limited potential for recovery of damages in animal cases may mean that a lawyer who does not focus on animal law may be unwilling to consider taking the case unless the client pays a retainer first.
Jennifer A. Dietz, Esq. Animal Law Attorneys, LLC Tampa, FL (813) 789-8029 jenniferdietz.com
What are the advantages of engaging the services of an attorney with experience in dog-related issues?
Advantages: Experience in the areas of tort law, dangerous dog law, negligence issues, preparation of will and trusts for animals, etc.
How do you suggest people find attorneys with dog-related experience?
It is extremely important to find a lawyer with animal law experience, no matter the distance to the client. Experience with the specific laws pertaining to animal law issues is invaluable. The most efficient way to locate an animal law attorney is to google “animal law attorney” or contact the Animal Legal Defense Fund, who will locate an animal law attorney in the area needed. Another method for locating an animal law attorney is to contact the local bar association for your area.
Christine Garcia The Animal Law Office San Francisco, CA (415) 297-3109 animalattorney.com
What are the advantages of engaging the services of an attorney with experience in dog-related issues?
Animal rights attorneys are more familiar with the broader laws/codes – and thus more capable of oral argument on the spot. Animal law expands over at least seven different relevant and applicable statutes and an animal attorney will be ready with relevant rebuttals at argument. Also, most animal attorneys are sensitive to the role of an animal in a home as a family member as opposed to property.
How do you suggest people find attorneys with dog-related experience?
See animal-lawyer.com/html/referrals_.html. Also, I give out referrals nationwide (and a few worldwide). E-mail me for an additional list of attorneys.
How does your knowledge and/or experience with animal law make the difference for your clients?
I am always more experienced than my opposing counsel who does not work in these cases. I often have to educate the court.
You’re out for a walk in the park with Sasha, your 6-month-old German Shepherd, who is a little nervous around small children. Suddenly out of nowhere, a five-year-old girl runs up from behind squealing, “Can I pet your dog?” while grabbing for Sasha’s head. A freaked out Sasha reacts by biting the girl’s arm, and it’s more than just a nip. A frantic scene ensues complete with screeching from both the girl and her parents. You are subsequently sued for significant damages, medical expenses, and pain and suffering. You need a dog lawyer!
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A “dog lawyer,” or more accurately, an animal lawyer or animal law attorney, is an attorney who specializes in matters of animal law. Circumstances in which you may need sound legal advice and representation from someone with extensive experience with dog-related cases are not limited to dog bite incidents. Veterinary malpractice cases, custody issues in divorces, and landlord-tenant disputes are just a few examples of when an animal law attorney can help with legal issues pertaining to your dog.
What is Animal Law? A relatively new and diverse legal specialty, animal law is an umbrella term encompassing all types of non-human animals. Animal law includes animals used in research, sports or entertainment, livestock, animals in the wild and wild animals in captivity, as well as companion animals. Issues in animal law range from contracts to property rights, government regulation, torts, and criminal matters.
In 2000, nine law schools in the U.S. offered courses in animal law. According to the Animal Legal Defense Fund (ALDF), the number offering animal law courses has now increased to 100 of the 200 law schools approved by the American Bar Association. A decade ago, an attorney specializing in animal law might have raised eyebrows. But high profile legal cases in recent years involving dog fighting rings, tainted pet foods, and pet trusts amounting to millions of dollars, in addition to a greater presence of the animal welfare and animal rights movements in the legal arena, have added credibility and legitimacy to this fast emerging area of law.
Part of the reason for the rapid increase in the number of animal lawyers is due to the rise in status of our companion animals and their importance in our lives. Today’s owners often spend thousands of dollars to provide their dogs or cats with the best health care, training, day care, and grooming. For those owners, attorney’s fees are viewed as just another necessary expense in caring for and protecting their pets.
Can’t Any Lawyer Handle This? Anyone licensed to practice law in your state is theoretically qualified to take on almost any legal matter. However, most attorneys develop expertise in one or two areas of law. The law regarding animals is complex and continually changing, with new legislation enacted, new rules and regulations applied, and new interpretations impacting existing statutes. An experienced animal law attorney is more qualified to represent your interests than a general practitioner or an attorney who specializes in other areas.
Many legal matters that may involve your dog don’t have to end up in court. Settling issues to the satisfaction of all parties involved without a court case is always preferable. Using a mediator to facilitate a mutually acceptable resolution may be an option. When resolving issues on your own is unlikely or impossible, the following are services that an animal law attorney can provide:
Veterinary malpractice. Like medical malpractice, veterinary malpractice involves issues of a professional’s competence and judgment. As with medical care for people, sometimes things go terribly wrong. Veterinary malpractice is professional negligence, an error that should not be made based on a level of competence expected of a veterinarian as a result of specialized training and experience, which results in injury or death to your dog.
If you feel an error was made by your veterinarian in treating your pet, an animal law attorney can help you determine if the case is actionable (malpractice) or a case of simple negligence (carelessness) that does not constitute malpractice. Examples of malpractice include misdiagnosis, prescribing inappropriate medication, following the wrong course of treatment, or abandoning treatment.
The lack of significant monetary damages to the owner usually makes veterinary malpractice lawsuits impractical to pursue. If your dog is injured, you can recover only the amount paid for vet services. If your dog dies, most states consider only “market value” of your dog, and you can recover only the amount needed to replace your dog. Even if you win your court case, the cost of pursuing a veterinary malpractice lawsuit will likely exceed the amount you will recover. There have been awards for non-economic damages from negligent veterinarians for emotional distress or loss of companionship, but proposed reforms in state legislatures allowing recovery for these damages are not yet widely accepted. Some states have laws recognizing sentimental value, and some allow owners to sue for mental anguish, but laws are still developing in these areas and are not well defined.
If possible, it is most prudent to settle your matter outside the courtroom. A mediator can help defuse emotions of both parties and assist in working out issues between you and your veterinarian. If your vet carries malpractice insurance, it is possible to reach a settlement with the insurance company without going to court.
Veterinarians are licensed by the state in which they practice, so you can also lodge a complaint with your state licensing agency. After an investigation, the agency may pursue disciplinary action, if appropriate. This may include fines, additional training, suspension, and/or revocation of the veterinarian’s right to practice. Some state veterinary associations have a dispute resolution service, a quicker and less expensive alternative than a court case.
Injury or death. The law also provides for the recovery of damages if your dog is injured or dies because of a deliberate or careless act of someone other than your veterinarian. Dogs have suffered or died due to product defects, tainted food, attacks by another dog, and mistreatment and mishandling by groomers, trainers, dog walkers, kennels, dog sitters, and transport services.
Keep in mind that, as with a veterinary malpractice lawsuit, the monetary damages you may receive in a court case may not even cover the costs of going to court. Working out a settlement is quicker and less expensive. Pet care professionals as well as transport services, including airlines, often have liability insurance. You may be able to reach a settlement directly with the insurance company. Again, a mediator may be helpful in working out issues.
If you do have to go to court, small claims court is probably the best choice. Depending on your state, lawsuits in small claims court are limited to between $3,000 and $10,000. Small claims court offers you the opportunity to resolve your dispute with less complication and at low cost by representing yourself. Most states allow you to be represented by a lawyer if you choose, but hiring a lawyer is not cost efficient in most cases. According to Nolo Press (nolo.com), several studies show that people who represent themselves in small claims cases do as well as those who are represented by a lawyer.
Tenant/landlord disputes. Policies regarding pets are often unclear in leases or homeowners association agreements. Even when polices are clearly spelled out, they may not be uniformly applied or enforced. For example, you may move into an apartment or buy a home where dogs are welcome and later be told that they are not allowed. If you don’t know your legal rights your options are limited to moving out or getting rid of your dog. Try to find a workable solution with your landlord or homeowners association. If not, an animal law attorney will be familiar with any local laws and ordinances regarding pets in rental properties, homeowners association agreements, and state housing and disability laws for people with service dogs.
Contractual disputes and consumer claims. Contractual disputes and consumer claims involve the purchase of animals or products and services related to their care. Fewer than 20 states currently have “Lemon Laws” for dogs, allowing buyers to return an unhealthy dog to the seller (breeder, broker, or pet store) for another dog or a refund. Several of these states require the seller to provide the consumer with written notice of their rights under the law.
Other examples of consumer fraud and contractual disputes involve misrepresentation (your puppy is not purebred as claimed), defective products, or services contracted for but not provided as specified (pet cremation or burial). An animal law attorney can represent your interests if you are a victim of fraud or are treated unfairly in the marketplace.
Custody and ownership disputes. Pet custody disputes have become increasingly common in divorce cases. The bonds that people form with their dogs can make an already emotionally charged situation even more volatile. When you and your spouse decide to split up, you may not love each other anymore but your dog loves both of you. If you are unable to reach an agreement as to who will get custody of your dog, the courts will have to decide for you. Sole custody, joint custody, sole custody with visitation, no ongoing relationship, and splitting up pets between partners are all up for consideration in custody disputes.
Current laws provide for companion animals to be treated as personal property, and the home determined based on property laws as part of the marital estate. While current societal attitude is moving away from this treatment, and some judges make exceptions to the property model, the laws do not yet reflect this trend.
There is no standard in law for what is in the best interest of the dog. The best case scenario with a divorce is when you and your spouse put aside emotion and resentment and focus on what is truly best for your dog. If you can come to a decision on your own, the most the courts will have to do is review the settlement agreement that you have reached. If you are unable to do this, an animal law attorney who understands the bonds that people establish with animals, and what caring for them entails, can be your advocate.
Custody and ownership disputes are not limited to divorces. Legal representation may also be of benefit in cases of breakups of live-in relationships, a bailment (when a dog is left in the temporary care of another), a dog’s pregnancy, or a breech of a sales agreement.
Dog bites. Millions of people are bitten by dogs every year. We know that any dog can and will bite given the right (or wrong) set of circumstances. What is your liability as an owner if your dog bites someone? Dog bite laws vary greatly from state to state. There are three basic types of dog laws that may make you liable for damages or injuries caused by your dog. Strict liability laws hold the dog’s owner liable for just about any injury your dog causes. The only possible exceptions to strict liability laws are bites to a veterinarian, a trespasser, or someone who provokes the dog.
“One bite” laws basically allow your dog one “free” bite but hold the owner liable for a second bite. An exception is if you knew, or should have known, that your dog could hurt someone.
Negligence laws are common in most states; if the owner is unreasonably careless in controlling their dog, and this negligence results in injury, the owner is liable. In addition to addressing dog bites, there are state statutes that cover other types of injuries or property damage caused by dogs where the owner may be held liable.
If your dog bites someone and you are sued, how will you pay the victim’s damages? If the victim wins in court you may be paying not only for medical costs, but also for lost wages and pain and suffering. Homeowner’s or renter’s insurance is your best protection. Make sure your policy covers dog bites, and be certain your dog’s breed is covered as well. If you are sued for damages, you will need a lawyer. An animal law attorney familiar with your state’s bite laws and experienced in dog bite cases will be your best choice.
Estate planning. Many dog owners want to provide for the care of their animals after they die. Because by law animals are property, they cannot be beneficiaries of a standard will. Simply put, dogs cannot own property.
While you can’t leave your estate directly to your dog, there are things you can do to better ensure that your final wishes for your dog’s care and maintenance will be honored. Most states now allow trusts for animals. By establishing a legally enforceable pet trust you can leave property for the benefit of your dog, with a trustee in charge of managing it. You may also name a new owner for your dog in your will or in a revocable living trust. If you don’t name a new owner, your dog will likely go to your next of kin in most states. And when you name a person as the new owner of your dog in your will, you can also leave money to that person for the costs of caring for your dog.
Note: An entire article devoted to estate planning for your pets will appear in an upcoming issue of WDJ.
How do I Find an Animal Law Attorney? There are few attorneys who practice animal law exclusively. In general, it’s not a specialty that is financially viable practiced on its own. Lawyers and law firms who offer animal law as one of their specialties will provide the expertise and experience to assist you in pursuing your legal matter that others who only dabble in animal law may not.
We asked four animal law specialists for their suggestions regarding engaging the services of a “dog lawyer” and their answers appear on the facing page. The following are further suggestions for finding an animal law attorney:
–Your local shelter may know someone who handles animal law cases.
–Call your local bar association. Many offer referral services (for a fee) to find an attorney with experience to match your needs.
–The website for the American Bar Association (findlegalhelp.org) has state-by-state listings of lawyers and can be searched by legal specialty.
–Legal publisher Martindale-Hubbell’s website (lawyers.com) lists animal law attorneys by state and city.
Once you have found a qualified attorney, ask some pointed questions: “How many years have you practiced animal law? What portion of your practice does it constitute? Have you handled cases like mine before? What were the outcomes? How much will this cost?”
Don’t overlook the lawyer-client relationship; you may end up spending a significant amount of time with this person, and you should feel comfortable discussing details of your case with him or her, even when emotionally difficult. Chemistry is important. Ask the attorney questions; if you can’t understand her answers, or you are uncomfortable with her style of communicating, she may not be the right person for the job.
If you are unable to find an animal law attorney in your area, ask your lawyer to find one to consult with on your particular legal matter.
Self-Representation? If you decide to do your own legal research there is a vast body of information available on the Internet, including websites that list animal-related laws state-by-state. You can also contact your local courthouse or law school to find the nearest public law library.
The old legal maxim is “he who represents himself in court has a fool for a client.” If an issue involving your dog is serious enough to end up in court, no matter how solid you believe your case is, consider retaining competent legal representation. It can mean the difference between keeping your dog or losing custody, receiving compensation for an injury to your dog or paying thousands in medical bills, or even whether your dog lives or dies. Don’t be that foolish client. When it involves the dog you love, and the stakes are high, hiring a “dog lawyer” is money well spent.
Susan Sarubin, CPDT-KA, PMCT, is owner of Pawsitive Fit, LLC, Puppy and Dog Training in Easton, Maryland. She’s also Maryland State Coordinator for Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue, Inc. See page 24 for contact information.
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