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I think there may be no more commendable work than that performed by rescue groups who pull dogs from shelters where they might be (or are slated to be) killed, foster them, address their medical and behavioral problems, and find them homes.
Then there are other people who pull dogs from shelters and, without meaning to (I hope), plunge those dogs into even worse circumstances. What’s worse than death? In my opinion, living in filthy, overcrowded conditions, without enough to eat, clean water, or medical care of any kind, and without hope of escape — that’s worse than death, in my mind. And all too many so-called rescues, founded with good intentions by people who truly love animals and want to help them, start out as the first type of group, and end up as the second.
One of the ingredients for a “failed” rescue seems to be when just one or two people are behind the rescue effort for too long. Caring for a lot of animals can wear anyone down, and if you try it without sufficient help or ample funds, it can be exhausting and depressing — not to mention, financially challenging.
Also, once shelters or individuals know there is a “no-kill” option in their area, they are often all-too-fast to try to surrender animals to the “rescue” — without doing due diligence, to make sure the organization is healthy and well. It’s easy for a soft-hearted person, trying to do good work, to get buried under an avalanche of animals needing homes, and not enough time to market those animals to potential new owners. A “good” rescue sometimes says no; they don’t take in more animals than they can care for. And in this case, I think they are doing the animals a disservice.
But, as I said, I’m conflicted. I recently pulled a dog out of a shelter, and brought it to a rescue group — one that is doing terrific work. And yet, I felt guilty for bringing one more dog to a group who is already trying to place LOTS of similar dogs.
My local shelter didn’t want to give a particular dog a chance, citing his size, lack of training, and “drive”. He is a Redbone Coonhound, and typical for the breed: tall, strong, and yes, loud. And yet, he wasn’t aggressive, wasn’t a cat killer, wasn’t dying of heartworm or anything else — he was just another big, active, loud, untrained young dog. He was sweet and trainable, but the powers-that-be decided he was not a good adoption candidate. Sometimes that means the animal himself is unsuited for life in any human society, but in this case, it seemed that someone thought it was unlikely that he’d find a suitable home in our community any time soon. I hate that sort of decision — and I understand that it’s why many people hate and speak disparaging of “so-called shelters”.
I couldn’t stand by and watch him get euthanized for no good reason — I also can’t foster a dog of his size and lung capacity without alienating my husband, my own animals, and neighbors. Fortunately, I know this one terrific rescue group, the American Black and Tan Coonhound Rescue (www.coonhoundrescue.com), which was started as a strict Black and Tan rescue, but which also takes in hounds of other breeds. They have an active national network of people working for the hounds: some who provide foster homes, training, and socializing for the dogs; some who provide transportation services, moving dogs to available foster homes, or in the best case scenario, transporting dogs long-distance from foster to permanent adoptive homes; and donors, people who have or have had coonhounds and want to help.
I asked, and got permission to transport this dog to the West Coast coordinator for the group — who is already hosting a dozen or so equally needy hounds! She operates a boarding and daycare facility, so it’s not like her home is buried under hounds, but still — that’s a lot of extra work.
So, I’m going to make a donation to the group, and I’ve offered to help transport dogs when I can. And I’d certainly like to help publicize the group; they do amazing work. Their good-news stories appear daily on their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/groups/90624386172/). And I’d also recommend these dogs to anyone looking for their next dog; they may not all be as calm as the famous Maddie the Coonhound (http://maddieonthings.com/) but they are smart, funny dogs who do mellow after those first couple of years.
A dog who regards his humans as a strong leader will feel more secure in threatening situations. For example, Shiloh the Shetland Sheepdog is nervous when strangers approach on the street. Without confidence in his owner, Shiloh might feel the need to take matters into his own paws, barking and lunging furiously to drive the stranger away. But if he sees his owner a capable leader, Shiloh can relax and let her handle the situation. Leadership has its benefits for you, the owner, as well. If you feel that you have more control over your dog, you will be able to remain calmer when confronted with potentially anxiety-producing situations.
Good leaders use psychology to lead and teach. There is no need to prove to your dog that you are in charge by being physically overpowering.
The Language of Leadership
The unruffled, self-assured manner of a strong leader is reflected in the tone of voice and body language. Speech is succinct. Instructions are clear and direct. A good leader is fair, consistent, and patient. Although it might ne difficult to define a good leader by listing personality traits and mannerisms, the aura of a true leader is unmistakable. Even if you do not naturally exude leadership qualities, you can learn to approximate them well enough that your dog will be convinced that you are in charge.
Heres how:
– Maintain an air of calm confidence. Whenever you feel yourself becoming tense, take a few deep breaths.
– Give verbal cues once in an even tone of voice. Do not repeat cues with escalating volume! Your dog can hear a potato chip hit the carpet in the next room-she heard your request the first time.
– Keep verbal cues simple: do not surround them with extraneous chatter. Its not, Hey buddy, come on, come here now! Its Buddy, come!
– Be clear in your hand signals and body language. Do not use unnecessary movements. Stand tall and communicate calmly and clearly.
– If your dog does not respond to a verbal cue immediately (assuming it is one she understands and has practiced), count to 30 silently. If she complies during that time, reward her. The time between the cue and the response-known as latency-will get shorter with repeated attempts. If your dog does not comply, a consequence should follow. The consequence might be your walking away and ignoring her for two minutes, withdrawing a potential reward (like the treat you were about to give), or gently placing her into the requested position.
– If you must interrupt a behavior, use a soft but sharp Eh-eh! rather than a frantic or whining No, no, noooo, stop doing that right now! Once your dog has ceased the inappropriate behavior, calmly redirect her to another activity such as chewing an appropriate chew toy. (Ask for a sit before giving her the chew toy so she is being rewarded for the sit rather than for the inappropriate activity.)
For more on owning and training a fearful dog, purchase Help For Your Fearful Dog: A Step By Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fear by Nicole Wilde, CPDT.
A number of people commented on last week’s blog to say, in essence, “Why didn’t you straighten out that irresponsible dog owner?” All I can say is that it goes against my nature to give advice to people who aren’t asking for some — especially random strangers. I was deeply exasperated with him — but he wasn’t asking me for advice. I may have been negligent in failing to help the dogs . . . but what would you do, really? And what would you do if some stranger in a store told you what you were doing with your dog is all wrong?
This is actually something I’ve struggled with for ages. When my son was a baby I became newly aware and observant of other parents and babies in public places, and sometimes I wouldn’t like what I’d see, such as when (as one example) a parent would yell at or threaten a screaming baby or toddler at the end of his or her rope. I’d think, geez, that baby looks tired and hungry and probably shouldn’t be getting dragged through a supermarket right this second, and yelling at him certainly isn’t going to help anything. But would I go up to a nearly out-of-control parent and tell her that she is just making things worse? Ask her to please not yell at the baby, because there is a better way? Ack! Maybe a person should do that, but I’ve never been able to. I’m always too afraid that the attention will just unhinge the person even more.
And, haven’t most of us been on the receiving end of unsolicited advice? Its often unappreciated, if not resented. And sometimes, it’s just plain wrong! Not long ago, a supermarket checkout person asked me what I was going to do with the chicken necks I was buying. When I said I was going to give them to my dogs, she reacted strongly. “Oh my goodness, that’s so dangerous!” she gasped. “Dogs should never be given bones!” I smiled and said my dogs eat and chew bones all the time and are no worse for wear. I didn’t resent her, not at all, but neither was I going to try to discuss a complex topic like the BARF diet (bones and raw food) with a stranger.
Finally, where do you draw the line? There are other things I do with my dogs that would horrify other dog owners, such as feed dry food (actually, I feed every type of food — raw, canned, dehydrated, dry, home-cooked, etc. — but mostly they eat kibble) and allow them to ride in my car without being buckled into a seat belt or crated. I know a home-prepared diet is healthier, and yet I choose not to feed it daily. I know it’s dangerous for them not to be crated or seat-belted, and yet I take the risk of them being flung out of my car if I get in an accident. Should I be admonished — and equated with the guys who drive with dogs in the back of their trucks completely untethered? What about those who let their dogs drive down the highway with their heads (and shoulders and front paws) hanging out the car window?
I don’t have any answers here, but I am interested in what you think. When would you admonish a stranger for “doing it wrong” with their dog? And how would you do it? What would you say?
And how would you respond if someone approached you and your dog in a public place and told you, “You know, that’s not a great idea to do with your dog . . .”?
You’re probably wondering what on earth your dog’s diet has to do with his stress levels when left alone. The answer is, plenty. Have you ever drank one cup of coffee too many and gotten that jittery, wired feeling? You might have snapped at your co-workers, been more impatient than usual when waiting in line, or reacted with vitriol when someone cut you off in traffic. Likewise, have you noticed the way kids act when they’ve eaten too much sugar? They can become cranky and hyperactive. What we ingest has a direct effect on our nervous system. A long-term diet of sweets and processed foods will surely impact our health, but it may also cause us to feel less emotionally balanced, and even depressed, anxious, or angry. By the same token, eating a healthful diet contributes to a state of well being both physically and emotionally. It’s no different for dogs.
Dog food that is built on inferior protein sources and laden with unhealthy chemicals, preservatives, and excess sugars can contribute to issues such as hyperactivity, restlessness and nervousness. A healthful diet will go a long way toward allowing your dog to feel physically calmer, which will set the stage for a tranquil emotional state. Making wise nutritional choices will also result in better overall health for your dog, which will be especially beneficial as he ages.
I can’t even count the number of horror stories I’ve heard about ill-equipped, inexperienced, and downright irresponsible dog walkers. I’ve heard about dogs who were traumatized, injured, and even lost by dog walkers – which is why I’m always surprised when someone I know hires a random dog walker advertising their services on an app or from a bulletin-board flier without checking their references or interviewing them first. Would you hire a babysitter for a child this way? No!
In some areas, professional dog walkers bring their charges to off-leash trails or, as in this case, to a local dog park. This can be a huge benefit for a young, active, social dog – or a source of significant stress for an older, arthritic dog who does not enjoy socializing. Make sure your walker tailors the outing you pay for to suit your dog!
“Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the past 10 years,” says Boutelle, former director of Behavior and Training for the San Francisco SPCA. But, she adds, it’s a young business. “There is currently no regulating body and anybody who wants to go into the business can hang out a shingle. But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them. There is specialized knowledge and skill that walkers should possess to ensure the safety of the dogs in their charge, as well as themselves and the other dogs and humans who share the beaches, trails, and parks.”
That’s why Boutelle launched the Dog Walking Academy (DWA), the only organization that offers certification in dog walking, as one of the first programs of dog*tec, a company she founded in 2003 to help dog professionals succeed in their businesses. The DWA curriculum covers learning theory, canine body language, aggression, fight protocols, basic dog training, leash handling, pack screening and management, as well as successful business practices.
To become a dog*tec Certified Dog Walker, candidates must successfully complete an intensive training program, pass a hands-on practical exam and a comprehensive written exam, be certified in first aid, and pledge to use only humane, scientifically sound training approaches and ethical business practices. Through this commitment to excellence, the DWA is helping to establish the standards of this young profession.
Go with a Professional Dog Walker
Many of us are too busy keeping a roof over our own and our dogs’ heads to walk our dogs as far as they need to go daily. That’s where professional dog walkers can be of assistance. Whether individuals or a part of a dog walking business, professional dog walkers provide an on-going scheduled service for those of us who are not able to get our canine companions out for regular excursions, be it an on-leash walk, off-leash hike, or romp in a local dog park.
Dog walking is not a vacation pet sitting service or a general pet care service, though many dog walkers offer these additional care options. There are varied approaches to dog walking and the types available will be largely dictated by geographical location. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for instance, dog walking usually refers to walking small groups of dogs off leash on beaches, trails, or in parks. In New York City, it tends to be associated with walking groups of dogs on sidewalks. And in most urban and suburban areas, dog walking means single dog or small group on-leash walks in your neighborhood.
What all professional dog walking services have in common is the ability to get your dog good and tired, and return him safely to your home, on a schedule you choose: once or several times a week, or daily, if need be.
Our dogs benefit from regular exercise, just like we do. Physical activity can help with disease prevention, joint stability, flexibility, and cardiovascular health. Regular outings elevate a dog’s mood, stimulate his mind, relieve boredom and stress caused by inactivity, and provide social interaction and environmental enrichment.
The human client benefits, too, with relief from guilt and the worry that the dog is tearing up the sofa from boredom or anxiety. There is nothing like the peace of mind you get from knowing your dog is out having a great time and getting the exercise he needs! One also hopes for a better-behaved, relaxed, content dog to come home to at the end of the day. These benefits are profound and contribute to a happier, healthier life.
Choosing a Dog Walker
Obviously, it’s most important to find someone who will take great care of your dog. Again, anybody can call herself a dog walker, so it’s up to you to determine whether or not the person is truly qualified. Once you’ve located an individual dog walker or dog-walking business, interview the person who will actually walk your dog. Your dog should be present so you can view how the walker interacts with him and so you can assess how he feels about the walker.
A good dog walker (or the representative from a dog walking company) should have good answers to all the following questions:
1. Who will actually walk your dog?
Some companies are very small, with the sole proprietor serving as the sole dog walker; some might have dozens of walkers. Does the business employ independent contractors or employees? How are they screened?
2. What is the background of the person (or people) who will walk your dog?
How much and what kind of training have they had in dog walking? Have they had any education in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management?
Ideally, you want someone with professional training and knowledge and the skill set to implement this knowledge. They should use scientifically sound humane training methods and know how to assess and group dogs for maximum compatibility. They also need to be able to interpret canine body language, handle any issues that arise, take appropriate steps to prevent fights, and have the ability to properly break up a fight if one occurred – or protect your dog in case of an attack by a random dog on the street!
For these reasons, you should be advised anytime one of the walkers that you have approved is not available; don’t allow the company to replace your approved walker (without your knowledge) with an employee who lacks the qualifications you had sought out.
3. How many dogs do they walk at once?
Walkers may escort a single dog or as many as 20. Whether on- or off-leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injuries, lost dogs, and distraction, and makes it improbable that your dog will receive much individual attention.
Remember, the walker has only two eyes, two hands, and two legs. Some cities, counties, and park districts regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. Certified dog*tec walkers may walk no more than eight dogs at a time if they want to maintain their certification. Ask for private or semi-private (just your dog and one other compatible dog) outings if your dog is not suitable for or does not enjoy group walks.
4. What is the protocol for screening dogs who will be walked together in groups?
How are they grouped? By age, size, activity level? Because it can be easy for small dogs to be injured by one of their larger buddies, insist that your dog is only walked with other dogs about the same size (stick to the 50 percent rule: cohorts should not weigh more than double that of any other one in the group).
5. How will dogs that will be grouped together be introduced?
And what kind of management methods do they use? Not all dogs have good social skills or self-control. Your walker should know how to keep (and be capable of keeping) a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of fear, intimidation, or pain.
6. Where will your dog be walked?
Is the walker familiar with the local rules and regulations? Some areas that allow dogs have specific requirements for dog walking professionals, such as limiting the number of dogs allowed to be handled by one walker.
7. What kind of activities will your dog be engaged in? On-leash or off-leash?
Your dog shouldn’t be allowed off-leash if she doesn’t have a reliable recall, and any new walker should spend at least a few walks with her on-leash before she is allowed off-leash. If your dog doesn’t currently have a good recall behavior, don’t despair; a really good walker will have a protocol for both training a recall and for keeping your dog safe until your dog’s recall is reliable.
8. Will the person walk your dog in your neighborhood, or transport her elsewhere?
The walker must have an appropriate vehicle, and the dogs inside the vehicle should be safely restrained (with crates or body harnesses and seat belts or tie-downs) during transport. (We saw a nightmare story not long ago about dogs being tied by their collars in a big van; one dog broke her neck during transport by a dog walking company.)
When multiple dogs are being picked up and dropped off during transport, are the dogs left alone in a vehicle, and if so, for how long? (Client dogs should never be left in a vehicle while the walker participates in an interview with a prospective new client, for example. They should be left for only the minute it takes to bring a client’s dog back into their own home.) And is the vehicle always securely locked, so that no one could come along and release or steal the dogs inside?
If on foot, are dogs secured outside during the pick-up/drop-off process? Tying up dogs and leaving them alone is not an acceptable practice.
9. How much time do they guarantee on a walk?
Confirm that this time is exercise time and does not include any transportation time.
10. What equipment does the walker want on your dog?
Some dog walkers prefer to use their own equipment for a variety of reasons. (This keeps them from having to search their clients’ homes if the dog’s own equipment can’t be located, avoids damaging or dirtying the client’s gear, and ensures proper, correctly sized equipment.) That said, you should not give them permission to use equipment that you do not approve of, or that your dog finds aversive. Ideally, the walker uses your well-fitted equipment, outfitted with secure, up-to-date ID, and you make sure it is in good condition and ready at the door for the walker.
11. What kind of incidents has the dog walker encountered?
Have any dogs in her care been lost or injured? Safety should be a primary concern. Optimally a walker has been trained in pet first aid and emergency protocols. He should carry a cell phone and have your telephone numbers programmed into it.
What will your walker do if your dog is injured? He should know the location of the emergency clinics in the area as well as your dog’s vet and keep a signed veterinary release form on hand in case your dog needs medical attention and you’re not available. What will be done with your dog if another dog in the group is injured and requires your walker’s full attention? What if the transport vehicle breaks down? If a dog is lost? A natural disaster occurs? Is the walker prepared? If you don’t ask, you won’t know.
12. What if your dog walker cannot make it at the scheduled time?
Is there a back-up walker? If you count on the walking service to provide a potty break for a dog who can’t hold it all day, the walker’s reliability (or backup) needs to be impeccable.
13. Will inclement weather be cause for cancellation?
Is your dog walker familiar with the effects of inclement weather (heat, snow) on dogs and how to take precautions? Some walkers in areas with extreme weather provide alternative services when such conditions are present, such as potty breaks and indoor playtime and/or the use of interactive toys (stuffed Kongs, puzzles).
14. Will they provide a walk report?
Some walkers will leave you a note to let you know how your dog did during the outing as well as any observations or incidents.
15. Do they have references?
If so (and they should), check some! Don’t skip this important step. If each client you call has caveats or concerns about the service, choose another provider.
Ask to observe your prospective walker on an outing to make sure you’re comfortable with how she treats dogs in her care. Be aware that most group dog walkers won’t allow a client to accompany them in order to prevent their attention being diverted from the dogs. They shouldn’t mind you observing, however. If you’re hiring a walker for private outings, offer to pay her for a trial run with your dog and follow along.
16. Is the walker licensed, insured, and/or bonded?
Some cities and counties require professional dog walkers to be licensed and/or bonded. Licensing generally refers to having a standard business license, usually issued by the city in which the business exists. Check with your local regulating agencies to see if there are any special regulations for dog walkers.
In San Francisco, for example, walkers are required to obtain a license from the San Francisco Animal Care and Control in order to use city lands for professional dog walking. This city legislation is the first of its kind and it requires dog walkers to complete a training program like the DWA. Liability insurance is a must. Bonding (a bond provided by an insurance company) protects against damage that might be caused while performing a service; a walker may not need to be bonded if his insurance covers him in the same way.
17. Does the walker have a written service contract explaining services and payment policies?
Ideally the service should provide you with a contract to sign. Read it carefully.
18. Most important of all: Does the walker like your dog and does your dog like the walker?
Is the walker’s interaction with your dog gentle and kind? Does your dog want to interact with the walker? If your dog is normally shy, does the walker respond appropriately?
More Considerations
Keep in mind that the outing is for your dog. Above all, she should have a good time and get some exercise. If your dog is older and has health problems, the walk may just be a leisurely sniff and stroll. A good dog walker will assess an individual dog’s needs and adjust accordingly.
While many walkers have excellent training skills, the outing isn’t intended to be a training session; however, a good walker though should be able to follow any training protocols you have in place, and prevent your dog from developing any bad habits while out and about.
Know your dog and communicate what you know to your walker. Teach your dog a strong “leave it” to assist the walker in preventing your dog from picking up or eating inappropriate or dangerous items while out and about.
Speaking of eating, let your walker know of any dietary restrictions or food allergies. Inform the walker if your dog has been experiencing any changes in behavior or health (limping, lethargy, decreased appetite, etc.).
Always let your walker know if something out of the ordinary has occurred in between walks (a scare or a scuffle with another dog, for example) so he can keep an eye out for any side effects. In turn, listen to your walker if he expresses concerns about your dog’s health or behavior, or recommends or requests that you hire a trainer or visit your veterinarian.
And don’t forget to listen to your dog: if you begin to notice that your dog is not happy to see the walker and excited to go with him, it may be time to find a different walker or different type of activity for your dog.
Be aware of your walker’s cancellation policy and follow it. Understand that cancelling a scheduled walk has an impact. Walkers take only a small number of clients at a time and therefore a cancellation can represent a significant impact on their income. Remember, too, that walkers are not on call 24 hours; respect their hours and limit all but emergency calls to the work day.
Keeping Your Dog Happy
Dog walkers make a valuable contribution to the quality of life of the dogs they serve. Instead of being home alone all day, these dogs are given the much needed exercise and social interactions that they might not otherwise get. This contributes to their health and happiness, which in turn can help keep them safe and in permanent homes. Studies show that many dogs are relinquished because of normal expressions of boredom or lack of exercise, such as barking, chewing, destructive behavior, etc. Our canine companions are doing their best to adapt to our modern lifestyles; the least we can do is to take their well being to heart.
What About a Dog Runner?
Have a super high-energy dog, or a canine athlete who needs to maintain a high level of fitness? Consider a dog runner! These specialty dog walkers will run with your dog; most of them are marathon or ultramarathon runners who are perfectly comfortable taking your dog out for more miles than you can handle. Running is perfect for burning off an athletic dog’s excess energy or shedding excess weight from an overweight athlete (again, make sure your dog is in good health first).
Some running services even track your dog’s run with a GPS and then upload the information to a website so you can view the details of the run, including pace, total time, elevation, mileage, and a map of the run.
Dog runners need to do everything that dog walkers do, and also know how to interpret your dog’s well being, monitoring for signs of heat exhaustion, fatigue, or injury.
Ultramarathoner Bob Halpenny runs daily with dogs on the trails near Sacramento, California. For more information, see www.onthetraildogfitness.com.
Considering Becoming a Professional Dog Walker?
From the introduction to The Business of Dog Walking, by Veronica Boutelle (Reprinted with permission, copyright 2014 Dogwise Publishing; available for purchase in hard copy or ebook from dogwise.com)
“It’s a lot more complicated than people realize. Factor in squirrels, cats, and other dogs. Consider dogs with leash reactivity or a fear of strangers. Or dogs who like to chase things, including bicycles and skateboards. Imagine little kids with outstretched hands and adults with fear on their faces. Then throw in narrow sidewalks and off-leash trails…
“Still interested? Get educated and certified. Learn: canine body language, pack composition and management techniques, building reliable recalls, fight prevention and protocols, canine first aid, business practices. Start: a legitimate business with required licenses and documentation. Obtain: professional insurance. Research: rules and regulations for dogs and dog walking in your area. Talk: to other walkers to learn of their experiences. Ask: to observe or intern with walkers for hands-on experience. Consider: attending dog*tec’s Dog Walking Academy, now offered in at least 14 cities in the US as well as cities in Canada and New Zealand.
1. No. Headphones. Ever. A walker’s attention should always be on the dog and the surroundings.
2. No talking on cell phones except in an emergency.
3. Practice makes perfect. Ask for (and reinforce) your dog for loose-leash walking, and polite sits at street corners and when you stop to talk to someone.
4. Use good equipment that is appropriate for your dog (for example, if not well trained, giant dogs probably need more than a flat collar – and retractable leashes are not considered safe, ever). Inspect the fit and condition of all your equipment frequently. Ensure that your dog wears a tag with current information.
5. Pay attention to your dog’s body language. Chances are she will alert you about anything amiss on the street or trail long before you become aware of it. Whether that’s another dog walker approaching, a mountain biker flying down the trail toward you, or a mountain lion trailing you, an early warning can help you manage the situation – but if only you are paying attention.
6. Carry really good treats. Professionally trained walkers know that good training is built with top-shelf reinforcements.
7. Make sure your dog is healthy before starting any exercise program.
8. Do not let your dog run off-leash unless he has a reliable recall. (The only exception would be in a fenced dog park, during off-peak hours, so you could work on your dog’s recall!)
9. Manage your dog’s behavior! Don’t assume that it is okay for your dog to interact with every dog and every human you come across. Not only is it rude, but it can also trigger unexpected, and maybe unwanted, reactions.
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We have long advised puppy owners to have their vet run a “vaccine titer test” a few weeks after the series of “puppy shots” were completed. In our view, adopted from that of the canine vaccination experts we most respect (Ron Schultz, PhD, who has been involved in the development and testing of most of the vaccines used on dogs in this country; and W. Jean Dodds, DVM, a veterinarian who has extensively studied and written about canine vaccines), only a positive vaccine titer test can tell you whether the puppy’s immune system responded to the vaccines in the manner that was intended.
A brief refresher: Puppies are born with antibodies from their mothers still circulating in their bodies. (Some of these they gained from the blood they shared with their mothers via the umbilical cord, and some from the colostrum that they drank in the first couple of days after they were born). These antibodies “fade” (disappear) at a variable point – from a few weeks to as much as six months after the birth of the puppy.
A vaccination is a weakened, modified, or killed strain of disease antigen – the substance that could otherwise cause disease. We administer disease antigens to a dog or puppy in order to “teach” their immune systems to recognize them as invaders, so they produce antibodies that are specifically designed to recognize and neutralize those antigens. If the animals are later exposed to one of these disease antigens in a live, virulent state, the antibodies will recognize the antigens and annihilate them before they can infect and sicken the dog.
When his mother’s antibodies are circulating in a puppy’s bloodstream, and we vaccinate him (with disease antigens), the mother’s antibodies recognize those antigens and neutralize them. When this occurs, the puppy does not develop his own antibodies (protection) from the vaccines he was given. This mechanism is known as “maternal interference” – the mother’s antibodies have interfered with the vaccine. That’s why we vaccinate the puppy again and again: because until this maternal interference fades, the puppy’s own body can’t begin to recognize the disease antigens in the vaccines and develop his own antibodies to those diseases. Pups are vaccinated two to three weeks apart, in an effort to minimize any potential gap in coverage (between the fading of the maternal immunity, and a vaccination and resulting development of the pup’s own immunity).
On four separate occasions, my son’s new pup, Cole, was vaccinated at the shelter from which he was adopted. His age was estimated to be six months – the time when a puppy’s maternal interference is almost always gone – when I took Cole in for a vaccine titer test, to make sure he was what’s called fully “immunized,” not just “fully vaccinated.” In other words, to make sure he had developed his own antibodies to the diseases for which he was vaccinated.
Guess what? He hadn’t. The result of Cole’s titer test for distemper was negative. We assumed (like almost everyone does) that after all those puppy shots, he was protected, but if he had happened to come into contact with a dog or pup who had been infected with distemper, or had been someplace an infected dog had recently been, Cole could have contracted this often fatal disease.
Thanks to our knowledge, gleaned from the experts who inform WDJ, we found out that he was unprotected, so we vaccinated Cole again. We’ll run another titer test in about three weeks, and keep him away from dog parks and sidewalks until we have the results. And I will discuss vaccinations, titer tests, and Cole’s situation at greater length in the April issue.
My young Bouvier, Atle, has the triple threat of dog nails: black, stout, and surrounded by lots of hair. Regular nail trimming is not a task I relish, yet the importance of trimming nails can’t be underestimated. Left untended, long nails can splinter or break off, affect your dog’s gait, and cause orthopedic issues and pain. Although ultra-critical for performance dogs, proper foot care is required for the health and well-being of all dogs – couch potato or agility star.
Your dog’s feet are full of nerves that help him with proprioception; that is, an understanding of where his body is in space and relative to the ground (i.e., which end is up). When your dog’s nails are too long, messages to his brain get scrambled, altering his gait and posture. That’s anathema to integrative veterinarian Julie Buzby, DVM, CAVCA, CVA, founder of Dr. Buzby’s ToeGrips, a company that makes a traction aid to help elderly and other mobility-impaired dogs stop slipping on slick floors.
Dr. Buzby is passionate about canine nail care and describes the postural changes caused by long nails: “A dog with long toenails can’t stand with legs perpendicular to the ground. Rather, he compensates by adopting the ‘goat on a rock’ stance, where his forelegs are ‘behind’ perpendicular and his hind legs must come under him to prevent him from tipping forward.”
Dr. Buzby regularly sees dogs for orthopedic issues. Her exams start from the ground and work up; after a nose-to-tail physical exam, typically a nail trim is the first “treatment” on her list – even before chiropractic care or acupuncture. She recently saw a Dachshund who presented for lameness. His nails were long enough to deform the way his toes contacted the ground, altering his posture and gait.
I’m a sports-medicine junkie, so the idea that regular nail trimming benefits a dog’s gait and posture is enough of a “carrot” to get me on board. Those who need a “stick” to motivate them to maintain their dogs’ nails should consider the specter of broken nails (and the veterinary visits to treat them), which are prevalent in dogs with long nails.
“This is a fairly common problem in veterinary medicine and it’s gruesome to treat – painful for the dog and bloody,” says Dr. Buzby. “There is no conservative way to treat this injury.” Typically that means cutting the nail short at the nail bed by transecting the nail to remove the entire thing. She goes on to say, “Sadly, I can’t remember once in 17 years when this happened in a dog with short nails.”
Nails on the Floorboards
It’s not often that we encounter a Dr. Buzby who will tell us, flat out, that our dogs’ nails need trimming; the responsibility to monitor this is ours. There are a few telltale signs to help you know when it’s time to trim:
Your dog’s nails touch the floor when she is standing.
When your dog walks on surfaces such as hardwood or tile flooring, you can hear clicking.
If you hold up a paw and look at it in profile, the nail extends past the pad for that toe.
Though we’re often told that nails should be trimmed monthly, in fact, they should be trimmed weekly – two weeks at the outside – for best results. Some folks even opt for twice-weekly trimmings.
Front nails seem to wear less quickly than rear, and don’t forget the dewclaws if your dog has them!
Don’t Cut That Quick
Much of the hullabaloo about nail trimming revolves around the dreaded “quick.” This is the center of the nail where nerve and nail blood supply sit. Cutting the quick – as can happen accidently during nail trims – draws blood and can temporarily hurt.
In light-colored nails, the pink quick can often be seen from the top and sides of the nail, whereas in black nails, the quick is not visible from that perspective. To best see the start of the quick, Dr. Buzby recommends looking at the cross section of the nail (front/underneath) that’s visible once the first cut is made. In white nails, the start of the quick is white or pink, while in black nails, it’s grey or black. If you take off very thin slices and examine the nail after each slice, you should be able to avoid cutting into the quick.
Regular nail trimming at tighter intervals is said to help the quick recede, making it possible to trim nails shorter over time. Despite this conventional wisdom, Dr. Buzby, who uses clippers, does not see that happen; an informal poll of a few of her colleagues leads her to believe that most people who are able to get the quicks to recede use a rotary tool, and trim frequently.
Tools and Technique for Trimming Dog Nails
The most popular and most recommended tools are scissor-style clippers or a rotary tool/nail grinder (i.e., a Dremel). Dr. Buzby likes the control she gets with her Miller’s Forge nail trimmers, the same argument made by rotary-tool fans. She would “never use a guillotine-style trimmer,” a sentiment echoed by my dog Atle’s groomer, Angela Duckett-Smutney, who says the guillotine trimmers are harder to finesse. If your dog is less than perfectly cooperative and patient, it can be difficult to “thread” each toenail into the hole of the guillotine in order to cut it.
The following is Dr. Buzby’s technique for trimming using nail clippers:
1. Make a coarse cut off the top/front of the nail to remove obvious length. “The angle is very vertical and that is my trade secret!” This is in contrast to a 45-degree angle that is commonly recommended. Since the quick may not be visible on a black nail, the first cut is somewhat blind; err on the conservative side for this coarse cut on dark nails, taking off just the tip to start.
2. When trimming dark nails, many people remove only the tip, but don’t stop there! White or black nail, shave off small slivers until you can see that the quick is close to the cut surface.
3. Round off the sides/corners using smaller cuts. It’s safe to remove the sharp edges on either side of the nail without affecting the quick, since it runs in the center of the nail.
Some individuals prefer to take length off first using clippers, then finish the job with a nail grinder. Whether clipping first or not, Atle’s groomer likes to use a coarse 60 grit wheel and recommends a rotary tool that has significant voltage. She prefers to hold the rotary tool close to the wheel, using short strokes from the bottom of the nail up. She starts with one stroke up the middle, then one on each side at a 45 degree angle, holding each toe individually.
Beware of the hair with long-haired dogs! To keep it from getting wound up by the rotary tool, one recommended technique is to push the dog’s nails through a cheap pair of pantyhose prior to trimming. For these dogs, too, it’s imperative to trim the hair between the pads, as well as any excess hair growing around the edges of the paw.
Helpful Hints for Nail Trimming
The following are a few tips that can help with proper nail-trimming:
– In addition to our dread of cutting the quick, many dogs aren’t keen on having their paws handled, and/or aren’t thrilled about the noises associated with nail-trimming tools. See “Positive Pedi-Pedi’s” (WDJ August 2012) for tips on getting your dog desensitized to a nail-trimming routine.
– There doesn’t seem to be one favored position in which to place your dog for nail trimming; experiment and see what works best for both of you.
– Before you start a session, get out your Kwik Stop or other styptic powder – flour, cornstarch, and a bar of soap are all said to work in a pinch – to have by your side should you cut the quick. If you draw blood, don’t overreact! Quietly and quickly apply pressure and a pinch of powder to the nail. Your dog will be okay!
– Be mindful of how much pressure you’re applying to your dog’s toes. Hold her paw only as tightly as you need to – too hard and it hurts!
To keep yourself and others safe, introduce your dog to a muzzle to wear during nail trims if she tends to go on the offensive.
– One other novel approach to consider: train your dog to “do” her own nails by scratching them on a sandpaper-like surface.
If you’re still uncomfortable cutting your dog’s nails, ask your vet or groomer to show you how. Dr. Buzby notes, “It’s critical to keep this a positive experience for the dog. In my first practice, we educated clients on the importance of nail care and the veterinary technicians did a complimentary nail-trimming tutorial as part of every new puppy/kitten office visit. Veterinarians should be tackling both issues [why and how] through client education.”
Lisa Rodier lives in Georgia with her husband and Atle the Bouvier, and volunteers with the American Bouvier Rescue League.
Does your puppy or adult dog squirm when you check his ears? Squeal as you touch his toes? Or slink away when you bring out the brush? If so, you are not alone. A very few easygoing dogs seem to have been born enjoying all types of touch and handling. But most puppies and dogs need a little help when it comes to sensitive areas and intrusive touch. Is it really possible to help a dog learn to tolerate all types of handling? Absolutely! And, with a little special attention and training, your dog may even come to love the same types of touch that used to make him squirm, squeal, or slink away.
Handling Exercises: Start Them Young
Handling exercises are an important part of early socialization. One of the best ways to prevent problems with handling later in life is to make handling exercises a priority with your pup. Prior to 12 weeks of age, pairing handling and touch with pleasant experiences – say, a tasty treat – can help condition the pup to enjoy all types of touch.
For example, you may want to gently touch your puppy’s ear, and then give her a great treat. After she is happy and comfortable with you gently touching her ear, then you can lift the ear, and once again give the pup a treat. When she is comfortable with lifting the ear, you can gently rub the ear and offer a treat. This pairing of touching and treats should be repeated with puppy’s paws, tail, head, muzzle, mouth, back, belly, legs, neck, and collar. Be sure to have other members of your family and friends help with touching exercises, too. The positive associations created in puppyhood can last throughout their lives.
Handling Exercises for Adult dogs
Handling exercises are just as important for older pups, as well as adolescent and adult dogs. You can begin with conditioning your adult dog to all types of touch and handling, just as you would a puppy. Depending on the dog and his previous socialization and experiences, you may not need to continue pairing all types of touch with treats, but you will want to keep it up with any sensitive areas. You might skip the treats for any handling that your dog is happy about, such as head pats and belly rubs. But if your dog doesn’t really enjoy having her paws held, for example, frequent pairing of gentle paw holding with treats can help her to accept it when it is really needed.
If you have lived with an adult dog for a while, you are likely aware of what he or she does and doesn’t like in the way of touching and handling. But if you have an adolescent or adult dog that is new to you, use caution as you discover how she enjoys being touched, and what areas may be sensitive. Some dogs may have had uncomfortable, painful, or frightening experiences with handling. Be sure to respect your dog’s sensitive spots until you’ve had the opportunity to counter-condition handling for those areas.
Assessing Your Dog
How do you know your dog doesn’t like to be touched in certain places or is uncomfortable with handling? Of course it is obvious if a puppy or dog expresses a strong objection by growling or by trying to get away. If your dog responds with such negative reactions, you may want to get the help of a professional trainer or behavior specialist to work through handling issues.
However, dogs also express their discomfort in other less obvious ways. Here are a few of the ways a puppy or dog may show discomfort:
– Wiggling, squiggling, or jumping around in a playful manner
– Licking your hands or arms
– Moving away when given the chance
– Repositioning herself to make it more difficult for you to touch her, for example, turning away from you
– Becoming tense
– Putting a chin on or gently mouthing your arm
– Refusing to look in your direction
– How can you tell if a dog is truly comfortable and happy about the way you are touching her?
– Her body is soft and without tension
– She makes a connection, often by looking at you with soft, blinky eyes
– She may gently lean into your handling
For the types of handling we do every day, such as petting, grooming, toweling, quick checks for fleas or burrs, both you and your dog will be happier if your dog truly enjoys the activities. For other types of handling, simple acceptance may be enough. For example, I doubt many dogs actually enjoy intrusive touching such as opening their mouths or having drops put in their eyes, but they can learn to be cooperative and calm and, more importantly, not frightened or threatened by the experience.
While conditioning your dog to touch and counter-conditioning sensitive areas are crucial to low-stress handling, training a set of specific skills to help your dog understand the tasks is equally important. Your dog’s ability to perform the following behaviors can significantly reduce her stress and assist with daily handling and grooming, as well as professional grooming and vet exams.
– Sit, down, stand. As part of basic training, most of us teach our dogs to hold certain positions. Sit and down are the most common. For grooming and vet visits, adding a stand is equally helpful. For comfortable handling, teaching your dog each of these behaviors to fluency (meaning the dog can do them anywhere, anytime, with most types of distractions) is very helpful.
– Lie on your side. As a variation of the down, lie on your side (sometimes called “lie flat” or “relax”) is another position that will come in handy for grooming and exams. As with the sit, down, and stand, building fluency is important with this position. Some dogs are reluctant to lie on their sides when they are in unfamiliar places or around unfamiliar people because this is a vulnerable position. Start by practicing in a variety of places that feel safe to your dog and then gradually extend the practice to other places. This will help build your dog’s trust.
– Still. Still is a variation of a stay exercise. Stay is an exercise in which the dog holds her body in a specific position, such as sit, down, stand, or lie flat. However, most of us train stay with the goal of the handler moving away from the dog. The “still” is similar in that the dog needs to hold her body in one position. However, rather than staying in a position while people move away, the dog must stay in one position even when people are touching the dog. Some people successfully use the “stay” cue for both staying at a distance and staying still for touch. You may choose to build onto your stay cue or use a different cue for the still behavior.
– Holding the muzzle. Teach your dog that your hand around his nose and mouth is no big deal. Start by holding your fingers in a C position. With your other hand, hold a treat behind the C so that your dog will move his head into the C to get to the treat. Practice several times, until your dog is happily pushing his muzzle into the C for treats. Then gradually add some gentle pressure on the muzzle. Slowly add more gentle pressure until your dog is comfortable with your hand holding his nose and mouth. This is a similar technique to conditioning your dog to a physical muzzle, which is also a great idea when preparing your dog for vet visits and emergency situations.
– Chin on hand. You can teach a dog to rest his head on your hand and hold the position. Start by holding your hand out flat in front of your dog’s muzzle and place a treat near your wrist as a lure. Your dog’s chin will move over your palm to get the treat. After the dog gets the idea of moving the chin onto the palm of the hand, I switch from luring to shaping. At first, your dog’s chin may just touch the hand, but you can gradually reward longer and longer holds. I like to teach the dog to hold his chin on my hand until I give a release cue such as “Okay!”
– Give me a paw. Similar to the trick “shake,” this behavior teaches the dog to put her paw into your hand. Unlike the shake behavior, “give me a paw” will also teach your dog to hold the paw in your hand until she is given a release cue such as “Okay!” If your dog offers pawing behaviors, it is generally pretty easy to capture this. Other ways to get the dog to offer the behavior is through shaping it or physically prompting by gently picking up the paw and putting it into your hand.
– Targeting. Targeting behaviors can be particularly helpful in grooming and handling as they can be a terrific way to move your dog without having to manhandle him. For example, you can teach your dog to “hand target,” in which your dog touches your hand with his nose. By moving your hand, and having your dog follow to touch your hand with his nose, you can easily turn your dog around or move him from a down to a stand.
An “eye target” teaches your dog to follow a target with his eyes or head. For example, you can teach him to follow your finger or a pen with his eyes. This is terrific to help a dog turn his head slightly for putting in eye drops or checking ears.
There are many additional behaviors that you might find helpful for your dog. Getting on and off a table for grooming is just one example, and you may be able to think of many more. With some of these behaviors in place, handling, grooming. and vet exams all become much easier and less stressful. Plus, your dog will have the opportunity to earn rewards in the process, which may build more enthusiasm for handling games.
Teach Your Dog Restraint, Too
Sometimes we will not be able to ask our dogs to perform a simple behavior when we need to touch or handle them. Sometimes a situation will override early puppy socialization and handling practice. Perhaps the dog is sick or in pain or too upset to be able to stand still or hold his head up in your hand. In these situations, you may need to physically restrain your dog. Helping your dog understand and accept restraint is another critical skill. Training restraint skills will help if you need to take care of a sick or injured dog, and it will lessen your dog’s trauma as well.
Teaching restraint is fairly straightforward. As with all types of touch and handling, you begin where your dog is comfortable and gradually build her acceptance. Start with gentle motions toward restraint, for example moving your arm around your dog’s body without touching, giving a great treat, and then moving away.
If you start at a place your dog is comfortable and pair the touch with great treats, your dog will soon be okay with gentle holding. Gradual is the key here, making sure your dog is not just accepting but fully comfortable at each step. Slowly add in more pressure until you are actually holding your dog firmly, and then gradually build up the length of time you hold your dog. Taking this slowly and building trust as you go will pay off big time if you have to restrain your dog in an emergency.
Practice restraining your dog from the side first (this is easiest for most dogs) with your one arm across the back and under the belly and the other arm around the chest with a hand resting near the dog’s head. Other restraint positions to practice are holding your dog while he is sitting and you are kneeling behind, and holding your dog while he is lying flat. Most dog first-aid books have good illustrations showing how to restrain your dog. You can also ask your vet to show you the most effective positions.
Conditioning handling, teaching skills for grooming and exams, and helping your dog become comfortable with restraint are all part of helping him accept the daily handling and occasional invasive touching he will endure throughout his life. As you practice, keeping each step within your dog’s comfort zone and gradually building skills, you will also teach your dog to trust you. He will learn that when you put your hands on him, even in ways that are not always comfortable, you have his best interests at heart.
For some dogs, this process will be a breeze and they will learn these skills as a matter of course or through your daily activities. Tooth brushing may help him become comfortable with mouth handling. Regular grooming such as brushing his coat can teach him to love head-to-toe touching. But for other dogs, those who may be more sensitive, uncomfortable, or fearful, the conditioning and training may take some extra time. In the long run, the effort you put in will be well worth it for a dog who is comfortable, accepting, and trusting around touch.
Mardi Richmond is a dog trainer and writer living in Santa Cruz, CA, with her wife and her dog Chance. A formerly feral dog, Chance challenged Mardi when it came to handling skills, but today Chance loves all types of touching, handling, and restraint.
You’re not likely to forget it if you’ve heard it even once: the half-cough, half-choke – sort of like a Canada goose in need of a Ricola lozenge – that signals your dog has come down with kennel cough.
As canine illnesses go, kennel cough has something of a split personality. Usually, it’s “self-limiting,” which means affected dogs generally recover without any interventions whatsoever, leaving the victim none the worse for wear. But every so often, a dog develops serious complications, necessitating hospitalization and extreme measures. Given that, plus the condition’s highly contagious nature, means that most boarding facilities and even veterinarians sometimes treat it with the kind of alarm usually reserved for an ebola outbreak.
Kennel cough is a generic name for a group of pathogens that produce a contagious upper-respiratory infection in dogs. Sometimes referred to as bordetella (one of the bacteria that can cause it), kennel cough is also called canine infectious respiratory disease (CIRD) as well as canine infectious tracheobronchitis. The abundance of names reflects the fact that kennel cough is really a loosely defined confederacy of viruses as well as bacteria, any of which can produce a cough that lasts from several days to weeks – and sometimes much longer, if complications such as pneumonia arise.
Kennel cough is spread through respiratory secretions, and since few dogs have learned the kindergarten trick of sneezing into the inside of their elbows, it can spread widely and quickly. As its name suggests, places where large numbers of dogs congregate can be a hotbed for spreading the disease, from boarding kennels to dog runs. Most dogs show symptoms within three to 10 days of exposure. In addition to the trademark gagging cough, infected dogs may exhibit sneezing, nasal discharge, and mild lethargy. Healthy adult dogs generally don’t otherwise act sick or stop eating, and likely will continue to play and be active, though physical exertion may trigger more hacking episodes.
In dogs who are very young, very old, highly stressed (for example, in a shelter), or immunocompromised, or who have an underlying condition, kennel cough can advance to the lower-respiratory tract and cause pneumonia, which is life threatening.
If this sounds like a wide range of symptoms, it may be because the illness actually is a range of illnesses, and caused by a variety of infectious organisms, bacterial and viral. (For the difference between kennel cough and canine influenza, as well as the newly identified circovirus, see sidebar.)
When she was a veterinary student more than 35 years ago, holistic veterinarian Christina Chambreau of Sparks, Maryland, did an externship at the National Institutes of Health’s foxhound breeding colony.
“My job for the summer was to do throat cultures on every coughing dog – and lots of them were coughing,” she remembers. “And every dog I cultured had a different combination of bacteria.”
At the same time, Chambreau worked part-time at a number of different veterinary clinics. “Each one had a completely different conventional treatment protocol – one used Prednisone, another used antibiotics, another said, ‘They’ll just get better.’ When you see multiple treatment protocols like that, it means none of them are ideal.”
Is it any wonder this condition is called the kennel cough complex?
Kennel Cough Vaccinations
For many conventional veterinarians, the reflexive answer to preventing kennel cough is to vaccinate for it.
Holistic veterinarian Marcie Fallek, who practices in both New York City and Fairfield, Connecticut, is not a fan of the vaccine, pointing out that it is short-lived and may not be adequately protective, as there is no way to cover all the pathogens that can cause kennel cough.
“It seems to cause disease more than prevent it,” she says, adding that facilities that insist on vaccinating new boarders on site are operating largely on reflex – and fear. And in reality, they aren’t doing a thing to protect their other clients.
“It takes several days, if not a week, for the kennel cough vaccine to be effective,” she explains. “So when you give it on the spot like that, it doesn’t protect the other dogs. If it’s going to give any protection, which is minimal, it’s only going to be the animal that receives it.”
Using this logic, some owners have persuaded boarding and day-care facilities to accept a signed waiver in lieu of a vaccine, agreeing not to hold them responsible should their dog contract the disease.
Veterinarian Jean Dodds of Garden Grove, California, says she “rarely” recommends vaccinating for kennel cough, because generally speaking kennel cough is “not a serious problem and the vaccines are not 100 percent efficacious.” But if an owner does decide to vaccinate, she does not recommend using the injectable form; instead, she recommends the intranasal vaccine, which is squirted up the dog’s nose, or the oral form, which is taken by mouth.
Intranasal vaccines for bordetella activate interferon, a pathogen-fighting protein, in the dog’s body, an action that does not result from injectable forms of the vaccine. “The interferon also helps cross-protect against other respiratory organisms,” says Dr. Dodds.
If you want to or need to vaccinate your dog for bordetella, it might make the most sense to ask your veterinarian for the intranasal bordetella vaccine that also contains a vaccine for CAV-2, a strain of canine adenovirus that affects the respiratory tract. A dog who is immunized against that form of adenovirus is also protected against the far more serious CAV-1, or infectious canine hepatitis, which can be life threatening. This might be unexpectedly welcome news to those who use minimal vaccination protocols that do not include canine hepatitis (including the popular one recommended by Dr. Dodds).
Dr. Dodds notes that, as with every vaccine, there are some dogs who react adversely to the kennel-cough vaccine, especially those with “a hypersensitivity-like response” in which the body responds to an immune challenge so severely that it can be life threatening. If your dog has had an adverse reaction to a kennel-cough vaccine, he should not be given any more of those vaccines for any reason.
For her part, Dr. Fallek recommends using a kennel-cough nosode, a homeopathic remedy that contains the energetic imprint of the disorder; while sometimes referred to as “homeopathic vaccines,” nosodes work differently, rebalancing the body rather than prompting it to mount an immunological attack. “Kennel-cough nosodes are not 100 percent protective, but neither are vaccines,” she points out. Dr. Fallek recommends that those who wish to use the nosode to protect a dog who will be in a high-risk environment start dosing the dog several days before the expected risk, giving the remedy once or twice a day with a 30C potency for a maximum of five days.
When it comes to preventing kennel cough, the best defense is, well, a good defense.
“The bottom line is, the healthier you can get your dog, the better,” Dr. Chambreau says. “You want to build the immune system so she fights it off herself.”
The basic building blocks of good health are just that – basic. Make sure your dog receives the best-quality food and water possible. Avoid and limit exposure to toxins. And pay attention to the early-warning signs that the body gives when it is beginning to weaken, but before disease manifests.
“These are little things your vet won’t think are wrong,” Dr. Chambreau says, including goopy discharge that accumulates in the corners of the eye, slight waxiness in the ears, a little red line in the gums, minor behavioral problems, and a slight overall odor that necessitates baths every couple of weeks. She recommends keeping a daily journal so you can see patterns in your dog’s well-being emerge over time.
“Any holistic treatment that builds the immune system will usually take care of kennel cough,” adds Dr. Chambreau, who is a staunch believer in what she calls “R&R” – a flower essence remedy called Rescue Remedy and reiki, a healing “life force energy” practice. “You take one course in how to do reiki, and you can start offering it to your dogs every day on a regular basis,” says Dr. Chambreau. And while Rescue Remedy and flower essences in general won’t cure kennel cough or any other disease, many dog owners report that these gentle plant distillations can center emotions and help alleviate anxiety or distress about kennel cough, as much for you as your dog!
Another thing you can add to your preventive toolbox is the thymus thump. During the early part of a dog’s life, the thymus programs the T-cells that are so central to the functioning of the immune system. “By tapping the thymus, you reactivate it,” Dr. Chambreau explains.
To find your dog’s thymus, run your hand down her throat, and below the throat feel for the firm, bony protuberance that is the sternum. Gently thump that area with your hand several times a day, or whenever you remember.
Quite an array of supplements, herbs, and tonics are reputed to help strengthen the immune system; the most commonly cited include coconut oil, apple cider vinegar, aloe vera juice, and whole food supplements.
Melissa Oloff of Canterbury, Connecticut, keeps her Ridgeback Coco on an immune-boosting regimen of Vitamin C and probiotics daily, as well as an echinacea capsule several times a week. When the doggie daycare that Coco attends had an outbreak of kennel cough, Oloff increased the frequency of administering echinacea, giving her dog a dose every day during the week when Coco was exposed. “She was fine, no symptoms,” Oloff says. “The kennel had to send home 50 percent of their dogs.”
Kennel Cough Treatment Plans
As Dr. Chambreau noted when she first began in veterinary medicine, conventional treatment for kennel cough varies, from simply keeping the dog quiet and avoiding drafts and strenuous exercise, to administering antibiotics (which are useless if the pathogen involved is a virus and not a bacterium). Some veterinarians may recommend a cough suppressant, but others, such as Dr. Fallek, contend that cough suppressants further weaken the immune system.
Dr. Fallek is trained in homeopathy, and she finds kennel cough relatively easy to treat with this energy-based modality. Though a dog’s individual symptoms should be used to select the correct remedy, one that Dr. Fallek finds works in many cases is Bryonia, which is indicated for coughs that are made worse by movement.
Dr. Chambreau, who is also a homeopath, notes that kennel cough often can be stopped in its tracks if the homeopathic remedy Aconite is administered at the very beginning. “If you find there is a remedy that works for you [the dog owner], then you might use that,” she says. “Often people and their animals need the same remedy.”
When kennel cough is a concern in Dr. Dodd’s facility (a canine blood bank, utilizing retired racing Greyhounds who are available for adoption!), Dr. Dodds brews a tea made of the herb mullein, which is used for calming the respiratory tract and treating lung ailments.
While mullein is not an endangered plant – the ultimate volunteer, it can get a roothold anywhere, including sidewalk cracks – some popular herbs are. Dr. Chambreau suggests substituting marshmallow root for slippery elm, which is being overharvested because of the popularity of its medicinal bark. As a bonus, marshmallow is the gentler of the two, while still providing soothing relief to inflamed mucous membranes. For throat soothing, Dr. Chambreau suggests aloe vera and raw honey.
Relationship between Canine Influenza & Circovirus
No matter what modality they use, Dr. Chambreau encourages owners to do their homework. No treatment is without its risks, and working with a trained practitioner is the best way to ensure that your healing intentions come to fruition.
If you spend any time on the Internet, you’ve come across frantic references to canine influenza and circovirus. There seems to be an inverse relationship between the hysteria that mention of these two viruses induces, and what people actually know about them. Let’s take the oldest one first.
Canine influenza – specifically, canine influenza virus subtype H3N8 – first surfaced in a Greyhound kennel in Florida in 2004. A mutated version of a horse flu that “jumped species,” dog flu is highly contagious and produces symptoms that are similar to kennel cough – cough and runny nose. Dogs may also have a thick nasal discharge, which is usually caused by a secondary bacterial infection. But one thing that sets it apart, Dr. Dodds says, is the presence of a fever.
Like kennel cough, “canine influenza is generally not a disease of much clinical significance, despite the fact that it is a highly contagious virus,” says Dr. Dodds. For that reason, the canine influenza vaccine is not recommended for routine use, “except when animals may be exposed to high-risk situations such as crowded competitive show events, in which case it should be given prophylactically beforehand – two doses, three weeks apart.”
Dogs are at the greatest risk of complications if they become infected with the flu at a time when they are already coping with another stressor, such as intestinal parasites, malnourishment, or another infection. “The only other dangerous scenario with this virus is when the dog has an upper or lower respiratory infection with streptococcus,” Dr. Dodds says. According to Ron Schultz of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, in that scenario, two to three percent of dogs infected with canine influenza and strep can die from the co-infection.
The latest panic-inducing virus is canine circovirus. Last fall, media reports about dogs who contracted some sort of lethal virus in Ohio, and then later, in Michigan, were thought to have suffered from circovirus. However, investigators later concluded that while some of the affected dogs were infected with circovirus, it was not the primary cause of their illness. In an update published in November, Thomas Mullaney, interim director of the Diagnostic Center for Population and Animal Health at Michigan State University in Lansing, said, “Based on our current evidence, dog circovirus is not cause for panic.” It is, however, cause for greater investigation. “I don’t think we really understand circovirus,” Dr. Dodds says. “It’s like giardia; it’s everywhere. What we don’t know is why it causes a major clinical problem in some dogs and not others.” There is also no vaccine for circovirus at this time.
Circovirus symptoms are more diffuse than those of kennel cough or canine influenza. They include vomiting, diarrhea (possibly bloody), and lethargy, though some dogs exhibit a respiratory component, such as coughing.
Researchers have been able to identify circovirus in lab samples from cases as far back as 2007. “The virus went undetected in dogs for several years and probably longer,” Mullaney wrote. “This supports the theory that dog circovirus exists as a subclinical infection, or as a co-infection with other well-recognized pathogens.”
Bottom line? Like kennel cough and canine influenza, circovirus isn’t a major problem for most dogs, but for some it will be. The best way to ensure that yours isn’t in the latter group is to keep her immune system robust and ready to meet the next challenge.
The Holistic Toolbox for Treating Kennel Cough
I’ve had dogs for most of my adult life, and I’ve dealt with kennel cough more times than I can count – though less and less as the years go by and I learn how to rear dogs with immune systems that can shrug it off. Like anything, how we choose to protect and treat our dogs is an evolution and a journey. Here’s where mine has taken me.
Early on in my life with dogs, I vaccinated for kennel cough. Until, that is, one of my fully vaccinated dogs picked it up at a show. Despite being put on antibiotics, he developed pneumonia, and though he recovered, his hospitalization left me with a whopper of a vet bill. I drew two conclusions from that experience: One, I needed pet insurance. And, two, maybe the vaccine wasn’t all it was cracked up to be.
From that point on, I didn’t vaccinate for kennel cough (along with a lot of other things, but that’s a different story). I found that my young dogs tended to develop the most severe symptoms when they first encountered kennel cough, usually at a dog show. By contrast, my oldsters, with their wise and still vibrant immune systems, didn’t even sniffle.
After some trial and error, I came across what has become my go-to modality any time I hear that telltale hacking: the homeopathic remedy Drosera. Any time I administer it, the coughing stops in its tracks, and asymptomatic dogs in the household stay that way.
That said, I’ve talked to holistically minded folks who have had zero success with Drosera. One homeopath told me it has never worked for her, even though it is considered a potential remedy for kennel cough. Perhaps there is just something about me and my home that dovetails with Drosera energetically. Whatever it is, it has never failed me -with one exception.
Several months ago, I had a litter of puppies that was off to a shaky start. The dam had a Caesarian section, and the litter was less than half the size of a typical one for my girls: only four puppies, one of which faded hours after she was born. Less than a week later, Cocoa started hacking: It was kennel cough, picked up in those few hours at the vet’s office.
Trusty Drosera to the rescue: I dosed Cocoa, and her coughing stopped within hours. I dosed her babies, too, and, because I had never had puppies this young exposed to kennel cough – and none of my mentors or fellow breeders had, either – I started them on antibiotics.
(I feel a little self-conscious and even defensive about admitting here that I used antibiotics prophylactically, ven though I believe the decision to have been a correct, potentially even life-saving one; the small litter size and fading puppy suggested to me the possibility of a low-grade infection. But it says something about how militant “holistic medicine” enthusiasts can be when a conventional modality is chosen as a first course of action; sometimes we fall into the same reflexive judging that we complain about with an allopathic approach! And that’s not “wholism.”)
Several days later, the large male (who was so big and vigorous that we had dubbed him “Chubsy”) began making odd noises, which got worse if he moved around. Despite all my precautions, he had contracted kennel cough, and the noise I was hearing – sort of a snore, really – was a “stertor,” caused by a partial obstruction of the airway above the larynx. Thankfully, Chubsy was still active and eating, and a quick vet visit showed his lungs to be clear. I consulted my copy of Boericke’s materia medica (a homeopathic encyclopedia) for other remedies that might help him fight off the kennel cough. But he didn’t improve.
After several days, I decided to switch to another modality I was comfortable with, essential oils, which shouldn’t be used in conjunction with homeopathic remedies because they antidote them.
I have had success staving off colds with Thieves Essential Oil. A proprietary blend of therapeutic-grade oils from Young Living, it’s named for the four grave-robbers of medieval legend who avoided contracting the plague from the cadavers they pilfered by swathing themselves in oils (that turn out to have antimicrobial properties). The oil is a wonderful immune booster; when colds and viruses make their wintertime rounds, I do family foot rubs of Thieves diluted in almond oil to keep us sniffle-free.
Mindful that essential oils can be very powerful, I used a diffuser to disperse the oil in the puppies’ room, for short periods several times a day. I watched the puppies and their mother closely for any negative reactions.
To the contrary: Chubsy improved almost immediately, and within a few days, all signs of the infection – including that sleep-anea-like stertor – had disappeared. Thanks to that experience, I have another addition to my toolbox if kennel cough crosses my dogs’ paths again.
Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 10-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband.