A “hot button” topic within the service-dog community is the availability of online prescription letters for emotional-support animals. It’s important to remember that an emotional-support animal is required to mitigate a disability. The legal definition of disability is when one or more of a person’s activities of daily life is severely impacted. If you are truly experiencing the impairment of a major life function, it’s reasonable to assume that you’d be under the care of one or more medical professionals, and would not need to turn to the Internet for a letter that purportedly documents your disability.
“The idea is that the letter is supposed to be written by a treating mental health professional who is familiar with your case,” says Dailyah Rudek, executive director of The ProBoneO Program. “I don’t understand how someone can talk to you on the phone for 30 minutes, and suddenly be familiar enough with your case to do that.”
We asked a representative of the American Psychological Association for a comment. “The APA Guidelines for the practice of telepsychology encourage psychologists to meet with the consumer first before providing services online as good professional practice,” says Luana Bossolo, associate director and practice directorate, public relations.
The APA also recommends that consumers consider the following issues before purchasing any kind of “prescription letter,” assessment/testing, or other health-related service online without the benefit of meeting in person with a clinician:
Is the clinician licensed to provide the services he offers?
Is the clinician licensed where the consumer is located? Healthcare licensing boards around the country take the position that providers need to be licensed where the patient/consumer is, as well as in the state where the provider is located. Otherwise, Bossolo says, that provider could be liable for practicing in another state without a license.
Is the testing/assessment designed to be conducted online? Most psychological test instruments are designed to be conducted in person.
According to Rudek, it’s highly unlikely that anyone would ever need to legitimately rely on a paid service in order to obtain a letter for an emotional-support animal. Why? Because to legally qualify for an emotional-support animal, one must meet the legal definition of disabled, in which case the person is most likely already under the care of a medical professional who would be able to provide a letter.
If you consider paying for a “prescription letter,” you probably don’t legally qualify for one. It’s no different than parking in a handicapped spot when you don’t legally qualify for the special parking. It’s dishonest, and potentially further complicates life for those who live with various disabilities.
We have published articles, blog posts (on the WDJ website), and posts on the WDJ Facebook page about service dogs and dogs who serve as emotional-support animals (ESAs) a number of times. In every instance, a number of people have commented that there is a scourge of “fake” service dogs appearing in all sorts of places where non-service animals are not permitted. The alleged phenomenon makes people furious – both on behalf of the genuinely disabled, whose hard-working “real” service dogs are sometimes rudely interrupted by bad behavior from dogs who have no right to be in the same place, and out of a sense of injustice.
Many (most?) of us who do not have disabilities and do have well-behaved dogs would love to be able to take our dogs with us into grocery stores, shopping malls, banks, restaurants, trains, planes, and so on. On first blush, we may feel angry toward those people who appear to be able-bodied but are accompanied by a dog in a place where dogs are not normally permitted, thinking they are “cheating,” but I bet our resentment is tinged with a fair amount of envy, too.
Maybe I should just speak for myself. I’d love to bring my dog with me when I’m running errands, meeting friends for dinner out, and flying to a vacation destination. I do envy people who can be accompanied by their dogs in all of these places.
But if I allow myself to experience that feeling of envy for just a moment longer – if I think about the situation more deeply for just a minute – I feel ashamed. Some of the things that those able bodied-appearing people are dealing with would flatten me with despair. Would it be nice for me to take my dog into the bank with me? Sure. Would it be nice for that pretty young woman to be able to go to the bank without having to procure, train, manage, care for, and pay for an assistive aid that enables her to go to the bank without fearing that she might pass out, fall, and not be able to get up? Yeah, I bet that would be far nicer.
It may be galling to suspect that the person you see with a dog in a place where dogs are not allowed is a faker, that she has no disability. But given the fact that the vast majority of disabilities are invisible, the odds are good that you are just plain wrong, that the person has a great reason to be accompanied by her dog.
Badly behaved dogs are another story. Anyone who brings a dog into a public place is responsible for that dog’s behavior. Disabled or not, no one should have a right to inflict a loud, aggressive, or otherwise inappropriate dog on the general public – not to mention, the small, young, frail, elderly, vulnerable members of society. Ask any disabled person if his or her service dog has ever been attacked or at least approached by an unleashed, out-of-control dog; I haven’t met any service-dog handler yet who hasn’t had at least one of these frightening experiences.
With the article, “Service, Please” trainer Stephanie Colman offers a wealth of information about assistance dogs, and what to do if you see a badly behaved one in public. Let us know what you think about it all.
Recently, I found myself with too many dogs who needed exercise, and not enough time to put in the miles that could have worked off all that excess energy. I rooted through the dog-toy baskets in my office, looking for things I could throw for the pack to fetch. I used to have a Chuckit! tennis ball launcher, but some puppy or other chewed up the part that holds the tennis ball, so I threw it away and hadn’t yet replaced it. Then I remembered that I had bought a very similar device that is used for launching small rubber discs for dogs to chase: the Winga.
The Winga is made by Kurgo, a company that I’m more familiar with as the maker and seller of travel-related products for dog owners. I wasn’t aware they had branched out into toys until I saw the Winga in a pet supply store and thought I would give it a try. The device had been sitting on my kitchen table for weeks; I hadn’t yet been inspired to take it to the large open space that I imagined was required to properly use it.
Sitting next to the Winga on my table was a product my husband had dug out of a trunk in the closet: a hand-held clay pigeon thrower. When he had seen the Winga, he commented that it looked similar to a device he used ages ago to throw clay pigeons into the air for trap shooting. (Please note that clay “pigeons” are small discs made out of clay.)
My husband has a good memory; the clay pigeon thrower was remarkably similar to the Winga – and the discs included with the Winga were near replicas (except for being made out of a rubbery material, rather than clay) of his old targets. It appears that someone at Kurgo had the idea that the clay pigeon thrower could be repurposed with very few design changes, and used to throw toys a long way for dogs to chase.
Flinging the Winga
I was a tad skeptical that the rubber discs could be flung out of the Winga with as much speed and distance as the clay pigeons; I was certain that the rubbery texture of the discs wouldn’t allow them to fly out of the thrower as cleanly or quickly as hard clay discs. I was especially skeptical after loading one of the discs into the Winga; they fit very snugly.
On the other hand, I have problems with my shoulder that prevent me from throwing a ball or disc very far, so I grabbed the Winga and the two discs it came with, and headed with the dogs to an open grass playing field.
My first throw or two seemed to confirm my suspicions that the rubbery discs wouldn’t be able to leave the thrower cleanly enough to make its use worthwhile. I said to the dogs, “Ready?” and I used a gesture similar to the one I’d used with the Chuckit!. The disc barely flew 10 feet. My dogs said, “Seriously? That’s it?”
I looked at the package for hints. Included in the directions (which of course I hadn’t read first) was this: “Swing your arm as if you were swinging a tennis racket . . .” Despite the fact that there are a lot of ways to swing a tennis racket (forehand, backhand, overhead . . . ), something finally did light up in my brain. I realized that I should be swinging my arm sideways, in a swing like a tennis player’s forehand. And it only makes sense, because if you think of the disc as a Frisbee, you would want to throw it from a position in which the disc was parallel to the ground, so it flies flat and fast. When you do it like that – Winga! – the little discs really fly far.
The discs
We’ve written about worrisome materials in dog toys before (see “Why Vinyl Stinks,” WDJ April 2008), so I called Kurgo to find out what the discs are made of (the package says only that they are “nontoxic”). A representative told me that the material is a BPA-free thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) – a safe rubber-like material. I looked for information suggesting that this sort of material is actually unsafe, and couldn’t find anything credible. But, as with any plastic or rubber toy that your dog will have in his mouth, I’d warn dog owners to use these discs just for games of fetch; don’t allow your dog to chew or consume pieces of the disc.
If you happen to have one of those old clay pigeon throwers laying around, buy some discs from Kurgo and use the thrower you have. If you don’t, buy a Winga with its two discs – and maybe some spares; they are small enough that they can be hard to find if your dog doesn’t see where they landed. Then, head out for a big, open field with your fetchaholic dog, and have a blast!
Adding a new dog to the family is always a significant event. I recently realized that there is a finite number of new dogs in my and my husband’s future, and it made adopting our latest new one take on even more significance. Plus, as a trainer, I’m under a certain amount of added pressure to “do it right.” People might be watching, and what if I mess it up? So, as we prepared to add an Australian Kelpie from a rescue group to our family, I reviewed the advice I’ve given to other new dog owners over the years, and made sure we applied it to our own situation.
First impressions
For starters, as I recommended in “How to Prevent a Bad Adoption” (WDJ May 2015), my husband Paul and I planned to wait until we found the right dog for us, and to meet the dog to confirm this choice before committing to the adoption. Paul and I had agreed that if, when we drove five hours to go meet the dog, we did not find him to be as represented by his rescuers (friendly, happy, outgoing), we would come home without him.
We also knew that we would have to temper our own excitement when meeting him so we didn’t overwhelm him with silly primate behaviors like direct eye contact, patting, and hugging.
We needn’t have worried on either count. He was just as wildly enthusiastic about greeting us as we were about meeting him. He looked confidently into our eyes, and welcomed any attention we offered.
Reading Canine Body Language
After our mutually enthusiastic greeting, we took a step back to observe Kai a little more carefully. Everything we saw confirmed what we had hoped. He stood tall and forward, taking everything in stride with a happy, swishing tail. He sought human interaction, both from us and the two rescue workers he was already familiar with, playing no favorites. He eagerly gobbled the treats we offered (dogs who are highly food motivated are easier to train than dogs who are not as interested in food), and lured to a down easily. He caught tossed treats in mid-air and easily leaped onto a raised surface when invited. He did not appear in the least concerned about the numerous other rescue dogs outside the windows on both sides of the room we were in. Confident and well socialized, slender, agile, and healthy – check!
Suggested Resource:
The Language of Dogs
by Sarah Kalnajs
(2006 DVD)
Proper Identification
It’s never too soon to equip your new dog with multiple forms of identification. Kai came with an ID tag from his rescue, but we filled out a Jiffy Tag we had brought with us and attached it before we even loaded him into the car. Jiffy Tags are handy, instant pet ID tags that you seal in plastic. You just write your information on the two-sided paper tag, then seal it between two pieces of clear, hard, adhesive plastic, and then use a regular metal ring to attach it to the dog’s collar.
Kai was already microchipped by the rescue, but we registered the microchip in our name online when we got home. We also added a current rabies tag and county dog license in short order.
Suggested Resource:
Jiffy Tags
from Animal Care Equipment & Services
(800) 338-2237; animal-care.com
Introductions
If you’re an animal lover like me, chances are your new dog isn’t your only animal companion. Proper introductions to the rest of your family members can go a long way toward a harmonious future. We may have more animal family members than most people; we have three other dogs, seven cats, six chickens, a pot-bellied pig, six horses of our own, and seven horses boarded.
When we were meeting Kai for the first time, we asked if the rescue staff could bring a cat into the get-acquainted room, to make sure our prospective family member wasn’t a dedicated cat hater. That introduction went well, so we figured we were on solid ground with the cats.
We had seen that Kai was good with other dogs at the rescue. It’s ideal to introduce a new dog to your current canine family in a neutral fenced area; absent this, we made do with our indoor riding arena. We started with Lucy, our 11-year-old Cardigan Corgi, who is the queen of the farm. Lucy can be inappropriately pushy and assertive, so we figured we’d get the hardest introduction over with first.
As is my custom, we first allowed the dogs to see each other, on leashes, from opposite sides of the arena. Then we approached to a distance of about 10 feet, and, when the dogs’ body language looked reasonable (interested, happy, alert, excited), we dropped the leashes and let the two dogs meet. All went well. Despite his confident personality, Kai immediately deferred to the Queen, and has continued to do so ever since, even when she rudely grabbed his chewie.
Even though he’s deferent when Lucy is being bossy, he’s also playful and irreverent. In fact, last week he grew so bold as to dash past her at top speed and grab a stick from her mouth! He was so fast, that by the time she realized it and launched after him he was far out of her reach. No dog has ever done that before and escaped unscathed.
It was a breeze to introduce Kai to 10-year-old Bonnie, a Scotti/Corgi/Poodle-mix; she pretty much loves everyone. She plays well with Kai, and even tolerates him nicely when his level of play is a little more energetic than she might like. She occasionally tells him to back off, and he does so.
In the past, our 13-year-old Pomeranian, Scooter, has suffered from hemorrhagic gastroenteritis when introduced to high-energy dogs. We were a little concerned, but we needn’t have been. Kai was very respectful of Scooter, and got the message immediately that Scooter was not going to play with him, so now he doesn’t even try.
Our cats are already pretty dog-savvy, albeit a little cautious due to Lucy’s proclivity to engage in cat herding from time to time. From the demonstration at the rescue, we expected Kai to do well with our cats, and we weren’t disappointed. We simply brought him into the house and let him meet the three house cats as they chose to make their appearance. (We have parts of the house baby-gated so the cats can come and go freely, with the dogs restricted to only certain rooms).
Kai showed a friendly interest in the cats, but no inclination to chase them, and they are already more comfortable with him than they are with Lucy. If we did not have prior information about Kai’s response to cats, we would have made the introductions with Kai on a leash so we could observe his behavior before giving him free access to the cats.
Dorothy the barn cat chose to greet Kai with head bumps (something she never does to Lucy). Kai hasn’t met the three feral cats that live in the lower barn, and we’re in no hurry to have that happen.
Our chickens live in fenced enclosures, so we don’t worry about the dogs (or visiting dogs) grabbing them. Kai shows some interest through the fence at the fluttering creatures, but he’s not intense about it. I’m doing a little counter-conditioning (chickens make chicken happen?) to keep his interest at a healthy level.
Kai is quite taken with Sturgis, our pot-bellied pig. Sturgis, on the other hand, has very little interest in playing with dogs, including Kai. He has quite effectively taught the other three to leave him alone with a couple of well-timed pig lunges, but Kai seems to think Sturgis wants to play when the annoyed pig charges at him. Fortunately, it’s easy to call Kai away from Sturgis, and I am consistently reinforcing incompatible behaviors (sitting for treats and “find it” are behaviors that are incompatible with playing with Sturgis).
So far, the horses have posed the biggest self-control challenge to our new little stock dog. Kai is having difficulty controlling his enthusiasm around the horses, and I am concerned that one might kick and injure him. For a while I was reinforcing an incompatible behavior while leading a horse (this worked well with our now-deceased Scottish Terrier, Dubhy), but Kai couldn’t resist barking and leaping at the large animals. For now, I am managing the situation by putting Kai in a stall when we move horses around during morning barn chores. I will be setting aside some time for more concentrated work on this in the near future.
Almost every new four-legged addition to the Miller family has, in the past, triggered at least one “What have I done?” moment. To his credit, Kai has not. I did, however, experience a reality check upon bringing him into the house for the first time, having just seen him leap straight into the air onto an eight-foot pile of hay bales in the barn. We had three-foot baby gates already in place that would clearly be no match for him if he wanted to sail over them, and our four-foot kitchen counter suddenly looked pitifully low and vulnerable.
We also had no idea if he was housetrained, having just fetched him from a rescue house that contained at least a dozen dogs and smelled strongly of urine. I knew there would be no house freedom for this Kelpie for at least a few days, until we got to know him better.
The leash stayed attached to Kai’s collar at one end, and to me at the other end, for the first two days, except when he was in the barn, the backyard, or crated (the umbilical cord method). Fortunately he was happy to tag along after me, or curl up on a blanket at my feet beneath my desk, and Lucy, who generally considers my office to be exclusively hers, was willing to share. Also fortunately, over those two days, Kai showed no inclination to lift his leg in the house.
At the end of two days I began dropping the leash, still keeping a close eye on our new boy. The drag line would enable me to corral him quickly if necessary. It wasn’t necessary. After a day with the drag line, I took the leash off, and Kai joined the family, a full-fledged free dog. Almost.
Because of his love affair with raised surfaces, we keep the door to the laundry room closed. We have a small freezer in that room, the top of which is cluttered with containers of dog treats, some of them open – no doubt too much of a temptation for our levitating lad. We don’t leave food unattended on kitchen counters, so there’s no temptation there, and we haven’t even seen him try to make that leap. He hasn’t tested the meager three-foot baby gates, thank goodness. However, we did discover that he likes to raid trash cans. Our kitchen receptacle is already covered, as is the one in my office, but we are keeping the living room off limits to Kai unless we are with him, until we get another covered can for that room. It’s already ordered.
Kai quickly fit into the rest of the Miller household routine. He was easily enticed into a crate for a few bits of cheese the first few days, and was soon running into his crate on cue. (He is crated at night and when we are not home.) He didn’t know the “Wait” cue, but with a just few repetitions on the first day he was waiting with Bonnie and Lucy on the stairway landing until I reached the bottom of the stairs and invited them to follow – our standard precaution to prevent the dogs from accidentally tripping us on the stairs. He very quickly generalized the “Wait” cue to doors (barn and house), his food bowl, and other useful opportunities.
He was pleased to discover that dogs are allowed on furniture in the Miller home. From the first day he waited politely for my invitation to jump up and snuggle next to me on the sofa (on my left side – Bonnie gets my right side). I love dog snuggling, so he gets invited a lot.
Suggested Resource:
Do-Over Dogs
by Pat Miller
(2010, Dogwise Publishing)
The Great Outdoors
The biggest challenge about the great outdoors is convincing your dog that he wants to come back to you when you ask him to. There are so many good things to sniff and chase! A solid recall gives you and your dog much more freedom and many more options when you venture out. I started practicing recalls with Kai his first day home.
Confession: I did fail to follow my own excellent advice about fences. I knew that our four-foot fence wouldn’t contain Kai if he decided to go over, but didn’t even think about the fact that most of the fence was in pretty poor repair.
During his first week with us, probably about the fifth day, I had stashed Bonnie and Kai in the yard after morning farm chores while I went to the lower barn to feed our chickens. Suddenly I heard a ka-thump sound, and a brown streak was racing across the yard. Kai was loose! I had several days of practicing recalls with him in the barn, but he was loose! Fortunately, he did one lap around the yard and then came directly to me. Of course I showered him with the treats that I always carry in my pockets.
I prayed he had found a loose board, and not jumped the fence. It would be much easier to fix the fence than raise it. Fortunately that proved to be the case. Paul fixed the fence that day, and Kai hasn’t escaped since.
I have, however, taken him on many hikes around the farm, to one field in particular that is surrounded on three sides by a healthy creek. I discovered that Kai doesn’t like to get his feet wet, so this field is effectively fenced on three sides for Kai. I started with Kai on a long line, doing lots of recalls, then worked up to dropping the long line while we hiked around this field, still keeping him close to me by calling him back frequently, and rewarding with high-value treats. Eventually I was comfortable allowing him free run of this field, off-leash. He is proving to have a pretty reliable recall, and we are about to take the next step: off leash in slightly less-protected areas of the farm. I am confident that in short order we will be comfortable having Kai accompany us off leash anywhere on the farm.
Of course I would enroll Kai in a training class . . . but where? We had a new seven-week Basic Good Manners Class starting here at Peaceable Paws with trainer Jill Friefeld, CPDT-KA, just a week after Kai came home, so I signed him up. We graduated last week, and earned honors for the “Fastest Recall.” A past Peaceable Paws trainer, Laura Nalven, CPDT-KA, PMCT, has just opened up her own training business in nearby Hagerstown, and we’re signed up for her first class starting June 3rd, at Atta Pup! Dog and Puppy Training. We’re also attending her Canine Games Night once a month, for added fun and social exposure. It’s far too easy for a farm dog, even one at Peaceable Paws, to lose sight of all the stimulation and entertainment the rest of the world has to offer.
After that, who knows? He has passed his first days with flying colors. Maybe we should do Herding. Or Rally. Or Freestyle. Or Agility. Maybe we’ll delve deeper into Imitation Training. It’s still early days (exactly two months since the little red Kelpie joined our family), and with a dog as brilliant and solid as Kai, the sky’s the limit. We’ll keep you posted. But even more important… even if he never does anything more than live on the farm, we are totally, completely and utterly smitten with our new boy. Which is how it should be.
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A short blog post today, to remind myself (and perhaps others) of something so simple I forget it all the time: When a dog is having trouble learning something, “pose the question” differently!
Case in point: I’m fostering a puppy, about six months old and about 40 pounds. When I brought him home from my local shelter, he was terrified of the car. A week later, he’s now much more comfortable in the car, but (until yesterday) he was still reluctant to approach it, even when being lured with treats and toys.
My office is in a house that’s three blocks from where I live, and I rent other rooms in the house to students. I drive my car back and forth in that three-block “commute” several times a day – ridiculous, I know, but when I’m toting my laptop and/or camera, my own two dogs and a foster dog or two, and a sandwich or coffee, it’s often easier to pile everything into my car and drive. (When I have time and nothing to carry, the dogs and I all walk from one house to the other, of course.)
My car is a hatchback, and there is ample space behind the seats for my dogs on this short drive. But the back bumper of the car is sort of high, and while I’m certain the puppy is capable of jumping into the back of the car (given that tiny Tito can do it), he is too daunted to even try. So, I have been lifting him up and place him in the car.
After five or six days of this commute, my current foster puppy learned that his fun quotient will drastically increase when the short car ride is over; all the dogs jump into the car, and about a minute later, we all get out and do something else. He will now approach the car with interest, but he absolutely wants nothing to do with hopping into the “way back” of the car with the other dogs, even when I’m waving his favorite treats or toys under his nose.
I was discussing this with a friend who has volunteered to foster him next, in the context of “he’s doing so great, but we have a thing or two to work on,” when she mentioned that she will have to get a ramp ready; she had back surgery not long ago and can’t lift a dog of his size yet. Shoot!, I thought, anticipating that it might be a challenge to teach him to walk up a ramp, too. And then it struck me: Why don’t I see if he would be more willing to get into the car from one of the side doors? The floor of the back seat is quite low, and perhaps he’d approach that spot more willingly.
It took ONE luring session to convince him that the floor of the back seat was a nice, safe space for him to jump up into and ride in. Now the whole troop, puppy included, runs to the car, and when I open the back hatch AND the side door, everyone jumps in on their own. Problem solved.
But why didn’t I think of that days ago? Because I was “set” on the way I usually do things: opening only the hatch, and having all the dogs jump in the way back. I wasn’t thinking like a dog trainer ¬- excusable, maybe, since I’m NOT a dog trainer, just an editor who writes about dog training. But after this much time of writing about dog training, seriously? Five days of not thinking outside the box with this puppy? Continuing to do something that wasn’t working all that well? It was only when my friend mentioned her specific needs for the puppy that I considered trying something different, and that something worked immediately. And why wouldn’t it? He’s a bright puppy! He’s learning all sorts of other skills daily.
Anyone who has ever studied a foreign language – or even higher math – knows that when you don’t understand a concept or phrase, it’s no good having the instructor repeat that concept or phrase over and over again. If you don’t get it, having the instructor repeat it verbatim (and perhaps louder) is unlikely to help you understand. But if the instructor puts the question a different way, shows you an alternate solution to the problem, uses a slightly different phrase to explain the concept, AH, RIGHT! Often the light bulb goes on in your head.
Dogs are no different; they can’t all learn everything in exactly the same way. As your dog’s “instructor,” be creative, and don’t “teach by rote.” If your otherwise smart (or at least willing) dog is stuck on some concept, look for a new way to teach it to him. Ask a dog-savvy friend or friendly trainer for ideas on an alternate approach. Just put the “question” to your dog differently, and see if the light bulb goes on.
Many of us “feel sorry for the animals” when we visit a shelter’s adoption row and look upon the faces of the dogs who desperately need homes. But those are the lucky ones – the ones who have been assessed and deemed “adoptable.” There are many other dogs in shelters who may not be so fortunate.
Last week, when volunteering at my local shelter, I did something I haven’t done before: I spent most of my time on the “isolation” side of the shelter, rather than with the dogs who were on the “adoption” side.
This experience may not be available to any volunteer at any shelter; shelter managers have to be pretty comfortable that a volunteer can stay out of harm’s way (there are dangerous dogs in quarantine, in addition to stray animals who have not yet been behaviorally assessed by any staff). Anyone who walks through this area must also understand the shelter’s cleaning and disinfecting routine and pattern (so as not to track themselves or dogs across or through a disinfected or not-yet cleaned areas). They also have to be a help, not a hindrance, to the hard work that is going on back there: cleaning the far more crowded part of the shelter, taking care of sick and injured animals, and even euthanizing animals who are profoundly suffering. To be perfectly clear: Parking oneself in front of the kennel containing the most unfortunate dog in the shelter and sniffling helps no one.
In many shelters, the areas that are not open to the public are a bit like a MASH unit, where harried workers are triaging any number of cases that are so sad, it could depress a civilian for a week: the white-faced, arthritic, confused senior dogs who are being held in hopes that their elderly owner manages to recover and return home from the hospital; the extremely fearful dog whose homeless and mentally ill owner was arrested, held, released, and whose whereabouts are now unknown; the mama dogs who were surrendered by their owners when hugely pregnant (or often, while in labor), and are attempting to care for their puppies in the loud, crowded shelter; dogs with mange so severe that they have no hair, and all their skin is red and bleeding from the dog’s near constant scratching and biting, in a vain effort to relieve the incessant itching; the fat, tiny lap dogs who somehow got out of their homes and got picked up by animal control and who have obviously never been kenneled before, but whose owners haven’t thought to or bothered to look for them in the shelter – these dogs are often either completely hysterical or almost completely shut down with depression. There are dogs who were the victims of cruelty – starved and/or beaten or tortured – and are being held as evidence until their owners’ cases are heard; dogs who have been seized by animal control after an attack on another dog or person or animal who are so defensively aggressive that they have no hope whatsoever of being released; embarrassed-looking family dogs who are being quarantined after biting someone; dogs whose owners “just can’t keep them anymore” for any number of reasons – and, of course, mixed in with all of these sad cases, lots of just regular dogs who were brought in as lost or stray.
I’ve been volunteering at my local shelter for long enough that I’m trusted to go “in the back,” though I usually only do so for a specific purpose, and just for a minute – to take out a dog that the staff has asked me for help with, for example. Right now my shelter is understaffed, and so the other day I helped with some of the behavioral triage: identifying some of the best candidates for an immediate move to the adoption wing: nice dogs who have been in the shelter well past the point that a motivated owner may be looking for them. In California, the law states that unclaimed stray dogs can be adopted out or euthanized after they have been in custody for four business days, but my shelter routinely holds dogs much longer, since (in their experience) many owners take far longer to think of or manage to get to the shelter to look for their lost dogs, or to raise the “bail money” they think they might need to get their dogs. (My shelter also routinely makes deals with people who honestly don’t have the money to pay the fees and fines that their dogs may have incurred in getting picked up as strays, especially if the owner has a good plan to prevent the dog from going stray again.)
My day “in the back” was an eye-opener for many reasons, but I’m going to talk about just one right now: the number of “stray” dogs housed in the shelter whose owners had been identified, but whose fates were in limbo for some reason or another, and dogs who were “surrendered” by their owners.
I saw at least a dozen dogs whose cage cards indicate that their owners have been identified, but the dogs were still there because:
– Owner was in the hospital, no relative available to take dog
– Owner in custody (law enforcement); no relative available to take dog
– Owner wasn’t sure he/she could raise any money for fees and fines (owner was encouraged to come to the shelter to discuss a payment plan or “deal,” but hadn’t yet come in)
– Messages left at last known number for the owner, no response
– Owner told staff that the dog had escaped so many times that they just couldn’t deal with the dog any more
– Person at owner’s last known contact number told staff they don’t know where owner is, and they themselves can’t or won’t take the dog
– Person at owner’s last known contact number told staff that the owner “moved and doesn’t want the dog”
– Owner apprised that the dog needs medical attention; owner told staff to “just put the dog down,” but when asked, if care could be provided without cost, would the owner want the dog back, responded, “Maybe…”
Then there are the dogs whose owners brought them to the shelter and surrendered them, because:
– “Moving, can’t keep”
– “Accidental” litter of puppies who are too young or too sick to be put up for adoption immediately
– The dog isn’t good with their kids (or cat, or other dog, or the neighbors’ livestock; there are at least one of each in the shelter kennels at any given time)
– Owner couldn’t afford medical care needed by the dog
I know many dog-loving people who say that if they won the lottery, they’d open a shelter or rescue. My newest lottery wish would be to fund a new position at the shelter: a counselor/trainer/problem-solver, who could go meet with owners and try to help them solve whatever problems are preventing them from keeping (or regaining) their dogs. Do they need help with their fencing? Assistance with paying or negotiating a vet bill? Some training advice and tutelage? Dog food? Medicine? My dream employee would be an expert at connecting the owner with the resources needed to solve these problems.
Back in the real world, though… Many of us have a shallow conception of shelters as being full of “just” lost or stray dogs. After spending a day reading the cage card of every one of the 90 or so dogs in my local shelter right now, I’d estimate that at least a third to a half were either surrendered by their owners, or belong to people who can’t or won’t do what they need to do to recover their pets – and that’s a hard truth to accept. As my husband commented, trying to inject some small humor after listening to me recap my day “in the back” of the shelter, “These are not WDJ subscribers, I take it.” Well, I doubt it; people who have been fortunate enough to have the technology, education, and motivation to subscribe to WDJ or follow this blog are unlikely to be the type of owner who would allow their dog to end up in a shelter limbo. This experience makes me even more grateful for owners like you, and more sympathetic to dedicated shelter employees and volunteers than ever – not to mention, tempted to buy a lottery ticket tonight.
We’ve all seen them: online pleas for donations on charity fundraising sites, supposedly to benefit a person or pet in need. Sometimes it’s a fantastic cause, but please be aware that sometimes, it’s a scam!
I recently saw a short article on the website of my local TV news channel, telling the story of a dog who had been reported missing in February, who was found in late April, trapped in the basement of a home that had burned to the ground some time ago. The Lab-mix had apparently survived by drinking rainwater, but there was no food, and she had lost nearly as much body weight as she possibly could and still survive. She was reported to be more than 60 pounds when she went missing, and was down to 26 pounds when found, not much more than skin and bones. Dramatic photos accompanied the article, including one of the dog still trapped in the basement.
The article reported that the dog was found by a police officer, and that the dog was taken to a local veterinary clinic for treatment. Best of all, the owner was found, the dog and owner were reunited, and the dog is improving. Happy story, lucky dog!
However, in the comments of the online article, there appeared a link to a “gofundme” fundraising page to help “save” the dog. What? It sounded to me as if the dog had already been saved, so I couldn’t resist clicking on the fundraising link. Inexplicably, the fundraising page claimed that the dog was CHAINED in the abandoned basement and was being kept alive, barely, by having been fed scraps. Donations were being solicited to help cover “vet costs, future appointments, and expenses for her special fatty foods.”
I re-read the news article. Nothing about a chain, or being deliberately starved. But the comments section of the online news article were full of comments made in response to the facts that had been asserted on the fundraising page, so clearly I wasn’t the only one who clicked on it. Comments like, “People are sick and need to be punished BIG time for animal cruelty and neglect…” and “person should be found and chained up to see if they can fend for themselves for two months…” And nearly $1,000 had been raised.
I’ve participated in enough fundraising efforts for my local shelter that I’m painfully aware of how difficult it can be to raise $1,000 for a legitimate cause – a whole shelter full of animals that need food and medicine. The idea that animal lovers in my community were being manipulated to donate to a single dog who was currently, by all reports, recovering just fine in her owners home, really bugged me. I couldn’t let it go.
I left a message with the police department for the animal control officer who found the dog, and she called me back a day later. She confirmed the original news story; she found the dog in the basement of that abandoned, burned-down home. The dog was trapped; no chain. She took the dog to a local veterinary clinic for treatment. The dog was given IV fluids and nutrition and was reunited with the owner within a day. It was her understanding that the owner’s employer paid most of the clinic’s modest bill of about $300. She had seen the “gofundme” page, and didn’t know where the story about the chain on the dog had come from – but she was prevented, as a policy of the police department she was employed by, to publicly comment.
I thanked the officer for her time, and added that I volunteer at another shelter in the area, and that $1,000 in donations are hard to get. She said, “We have a dog in the shelter who was seized in a cruelty case, a pit-mix who was beaten with a baseball bat and had broken legs and a broken pelvis. We are trying to raise $2,000 for a surgery that this dog needs, and it’s slow going.”
It’s wonderful that people who love animals will respond with generosity to campaigns that benefit specific needy animals whom they will never meet. But people who are in the trenches of saving animals year in and year out, in shelters or rescue groups, will also tell you how difficult it is to raise money for this work on an ongoing basis – and that animals with stories that are just as compelling are coming into their hands every week. Please consider this before piling on to help one specific animal, who may not need as much help as the fundraiser triggered. Or make a donation to a rescue group in that dog’s name!
If the story that is being presented sounds fishy, trust your instincts. Seek some sort of confirmation from a reliable source, such as a law enforcement official who had knowledge of the crime that was perpetrated against the animal or the veterinary clinic that treated the animal. Has the bill already been paid? In that’s the case, does the animal’s owner or rescuer really need any more money? Did the veterinary clinic forgive the bill? In that case, a donation to the veterinary clinic, rather than the owner, might be more appropriate! A veterinarian who was unexpectedly rewarded for her generosity toward an animal in need would be more likely to forgive a future bill for another animal in need – but a vet who forgave a bill later saw that the owner later raked in thousands in donations would understandably be unlikely to be as generous again in the future.
And don’t take it for granted that the person who posted the charitable plea is actually planning on turning over all the donations to the person in need. If it looks as if the person who created the fundraiser is a friend or relative of the owner who is in need, if possible, confirm that the owner still actually needs the donation, and has, in fact, received some funds from the person who created the fundraiser.
There are countless animals in need, and while it feels good to contribute one whose story has really touched you, there are many more animals in shelters and rescues who would benefit from even very small but regular contributions.
Once in a while, I hear of a unique idea to support a great cause that really grabs my attention. In this case, it’s movies going to the dogs… more specifically, the Ruff Cuts Film Festival, a canine-themed event founded in 2014 by Service Dogs of Virginia (SDV). Taking inspiration from great film events such as Banff, Sundance, and Cannes, the Ruff Cuts Film Festival puts a new twist on the idea and features dog-themed independent films. Founder Peggy Law established the festival not only as an annual fundraiser for the non-profit SDV, but also as a way to celebrate the amazing relationship between people and dogs.
Canine-themed films are submitted by filmmakers – amateur or pro – and screened at the event. Films featuring dogs and their amazing talents are welcomed, and Law would love to see entries covering dog sports, search & rescue, and work on canine cognition. SDV’s goal is to garner enough quality films to allow the festival to go on tour at events hosted by other non-profit organizations.
Now in its second year, the 2015 festival is slated for October 17 in Charlottesville, Virginia. If you’re inspired to create your own fido flick, or already have one you’d like to submit, entries are being accepted until August 1, 2015. Awards include cash prizes and the coveted, tongue-in-cheek “Palm D’og.” To learn more about supporting this great event or to submit a film, go to www.ruffcutsfilmfestival.org. Ruff!
Even the biggest worrywart owner usually relaxes a bit when her dog goes to sleep – but of course, her anxiety will ratchet up to stratospheric levels if that “sleep” is the span of temporary unconsciousness known as anesthesia. The more you know about it, however, the better you should feel about this often-necessary veterinary procedure.
While it’s been compared to a state of chemically induced sleep, anesthesia is more like a reversible coma, in which your dog feels no pain, has no memory, and his muscles relax. Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of anesthesia is that scientists still don’t understand exactly how it works – other than that it somehow causes the central nervous system to be depressed, slowing down automatic functions like breathing, heart rate, circulation, and the swallow reflex.
In addition to surgeries both simple and complex, anesthesia is often used with dental procedures, as well as during certain diagnostics and treatments in which it’s important that a dog lie still.
Like any medical procedure, anesthesia poses certain risks to your dog. Be sure it is employed wisely – and not just because it’s the path of least resistance. Owners who request that their dog be anesthetized for regular nail trimming, for example, might consider that behavioral modification and gradual desensitization would be a safer, and arguably more humane, approach.
Types of Anesthesia
What types of anesthesia your veterinarian elects to use depends very much on his preferences, and your dog’s individual situation.
– Preanesthetic. Many vets will administer a mild sedative to calm a dog so he can be more easily handled and prepped for surgery. Acepromazine is commonly used, but there are many drugs, and combinations of them, that are also highly effective. Barbiturates were once widely used for this purpose, but their use as been discontinued in the United States.
– Induction anesthetic. As its name suggests, this anesthesia agent kicks off the anesthesia process. Propofol is the name that most owners will be familiar with, but, again, there are a variety of choices, depending on the veterinarian and the situation at hand. Induction anesthesia is administered intravenously (that is, with a needle); the idea is to administer a fast-acting anesthetic to pave the way for the more powerful inhalant anesthesia. The catheter that dispenses the induction agent also gives the veterinarian a conduit to provide supportive fluids – and immediate access to the bloodstream should other drugs need to be administered in response to the patient’s condition.
Because propofol works so smoothly and quickly – and can be reversed just as speedily – it is typically used to anesthetize a dog as a preparation for general anesthesia. Your vet is unlikely to use it alone during any major procedure.
“Because propofol can cause significant hypoventilation (low breathing rate) or apnea (absence of breathing), it is recommended that a patient be intubated, or have a breathing tube placed, and a supplemental oxygen source available,” explains Stuart Clark-Price, DVM, MS, DACVIM-LA, DACVAA, CVA, an assistant professor of anesthesia and pain management at the College of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign.
There are exceptions to this rule, such as very short procedures or sedations that take less than 10 to 15 minutes, or when inhalant anesthetic isn’t possible because an endotracheal, or breathing, tube can’t be placed – for example, if the surgery is being done on the upper airway. “Propofol-only anesthesia may also be appropriate for animals with suspected brain tumors,” he adds, “as propofol may maintain proper blood flow to the brain more than inhalant anesthetics in this population of patients.”
– Inhalant anesthetic. This is what most of us think of when we hear the word “anesthesia” – a gas anesthetic. Inhalant anesthesia requires a breathing tube, which is placed in the trachea to ensure that the dog gets the proper levels of anesthetic, as well as oxygen, during the surgery.
Today, most veterinary practices use isoflurane and sevoflurane (colloquially referred to as “iso” and “sevo” for short).
“Isoflurane is the most commonly used gas anesthesia for canines in the United States. Sevoflurane is a newer agent that is also commonly used,” explains Dr. Clark-Price. “There is very little difference between the two agents as far as safety. Both cause clinically significant vasodilation and decreased blood pressure. So owners should ask if their veterinarian monitors blood pressure during anesthesia.”
“Masking down” is a procedure where the veterinarian skips the induction agent, and simply anesthetized the dog with the inhalant anesthesia, placing the mask over the face until the anesthesia kicks in. One downside to this approach is that there is typically a period of excitement or struggle before the dog succumbs to the anesthesia, which can be stressful for the vet staff, to say nothing of the dog.
“‘Masking down’ is just one way to induce general anesthesia, and it can be used safely unless rapid control of the airway is desirable – for example, in a patient at risk for regurgitation or vomiting – since mask induction takes several minutes,” explains Bruno Pypendop, DrMedVet, DrVetSci, DACVAA, professor and service chief of anesthesiology at the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California, Davis.
“However,” he adds, “many veterinary anesthesiologists, including myself, prefer not to use this technique unless there is no alternative. The reasons for this include the stress imposed on the patient, the poor control of the patient for several minutes, time it takes before you can place a tube in the trachea and gain control of the airway, and the exposure of personnel to anesthetic vapors.”
Post-Operative Pain Management
Only a few decades ago, canine surgery patients were released with only a pat on the head; today, veterinarians are very aware of post-surgical pain, and it is standard practice to prescribe medication to help relieve it. Dr. Clark-Price suggests asking your vet what protocol he or she uses for pain. “Multimodal approaches to pain management” – that is, using several medications, which reduces the amount of each individual drug used, and can prove safer – “can help alleviate pain associated with surgical procedures as well as shorten recovery time so that an animal can be returned to his owner sooner and get back to his usual routine.”
In fact, owners should ask what drugs will be used throughout the anesthesia process. In anesthesia as well as pain management, a multi-modal approach is often advisable, Dr. Clark-Price continues. “Are they ‘preoxygenating’ the patients – providing supplemental oxygen prior to inducing anesthesia? Do they intubate their patients and use gas anesthesia or do they use a strictly injectable protocol? Do they have established protocols for emergencies?”
Risks of Anesthesia
The risk of death for dogs undergoing anesthesia is approximately 0.1 percent. That doesn’t sound like very much until you translate it into whole numbers: One in 1,000 dogs undergoing surgery will die from an anesthetic-related problem. That’s 10 times higher than the mortality risk in humans, which is 0.01 percent, or one in 10,000.
A study conducted about 10 years ago from the United Kingdom estimated the overall risk of anesthesia-related deaths in dogs to be even higher – 0.17 percent, or about one in 600 cases – though advances in veterinary medicine over the decade may have lowered that number.
Before you panic, Dr. Clark-Price reminds that those are just averages.
“The actual rate at a specific hospital depends on many factors, including equipment, experience, anesthetic drugs used, if a person is dedicated specifically to monitoring a patient during anesthesia, and the health status of the patient,” he says. “Hospitals with anesthesiologists probably tend to have lower mortality rates than those that don’t.”
Your dog’s general state of health affects the chance that complications may develop, which is just common sense: A sick dog is at higher risk than a healthy one. Specific procedures also carry specific risks. For example, Dr. Clark-Price says, “a dog that is having a spay will have less risk than a dog having its spleen removed because of cancer.”
Dr. Clark-Price lists five common risks for patients undergoing anesthesia: hypotension (low blood pressure), hypoventilation (reduced depth and frequency of breathing, hypothermia (low body temperature), bradycardia (slow heart beat) and pain (the degree changes, depending on the procedure).
While different types of anesthesia are associated with certain risks, there are more important factors involved in assuring that your dog comes out of surgery successfully.
Dr. Pypendop offers this quote from Dr. Robert Moors Smith, a pioneer of modern anesthesia practice in people: “There are no safe anesthetic agents, there are no safe anesthetic procedures, there are only safe anesthetists.”
In other words, how anesthesia is used, and how the patient is supported and monitored throughout the process, is what matters most.
“The veterinarian and their technicians’ knowledge and training are more important than which specific drug they use,” Dr. Pypendop says. “That is why there are specialist training programs in anesthesia for both veterinarians and veterinary technicians.”
Monitoring
Both Drs. Clark-Price and Pypendop stress that monitoring is the best way to prevent problems associated with anesthesia. Keeping a close tab on certain bodily functions, such as respiration and heart rate, allows veterinarians to detect problems early, and prevents them from progressing to the point where they become critical or life threatening.
For an idea of just how important monitoring is in avoiding complications, Dr. Clark-Price points to the four main monitors used during human surgeries: electrocardiogram (which measures the electrical activity of the heart), pulse oximetry (how much oxygen is in the blood), blood pressure, and end tidal gas monitoring (how well a patient is breathing during anesthesia). When those four monitors are used in human medicine, “it reduces the chances of avoidable anesthetic complications by 96 percent!” he says. “Many veterinary practices have one or more of these monitoring devices, and clients should ask their veterinarians if they are using any of them.”
But Dr. Pypendop notes that sometimes, an experienced eye can be even more critical than a high-tech approach.
“When mentioning monitoring, people often think of ‘machines that beep,’ but in my opinion, while these devices are helpful, having a trained individual dedicated to monitor each patient is the best way to avoid complications,” he says.
Most veterinary practices do not have a board-certified anesthesiologist on staff; instead, anesthesia monitoring typically falls to a veterinary technician, who is supervised by the veterinarian. Vet techs can be certified in anesthesia management. Make sure to ask your veterinarian about who will be assisting with surgery, and if that person is board certified (in cases where the anesthetist is a veterinarian) or has received any specialized training in anesthesia administration (in cases where the anesthetist is a veterinary technician).
If your dog is at risk for anesthesia-related complications, consider asking your veterinarian to consult with a veterinary-anesthesia specialist who has been certified by the American College of Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia. In the end, you and your vet might decide that the best course is to have the procedure done with a board-certified anesthesiologist in attendance, most likely at a specialty practice or university hospital.
Breed-Specific Concerns
Dr. Pypendop notes that there are “many unsubstantiated, likely baseless” reports of breed sensitivities to a particular drug or series of drugs floating around on the blogosphere. But some are legitimate. Even if your dog a good old “all American” canine, considering what breeds might be in his background might be useful when it comes to calculating anesthesia risks.
“The only well-documented, breed-specific anesthetic drug concern is with the use of thiobarbiturates in Greyhounds,” Dr. Pypendop says. But that sensitivity – which is believed to affect all lithe-bodied breeds created for chasing prey at high speeds, such as Whippets and Borzoi – is a moot point since that class of sedatives is not available in the United States anymore. Anecdotally, sighthounds have been found to have prolonged recoveries from other drugs, too, and their low stores of body fat leave them susceptible to hypothermia, or lowered body temperature, while anesthetized.
Dr. Clark-Price notes that Arctic breeds such as Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes typically experience a great deal of disorientation – formally called dysphoria – during recovery from anesthesia. “They may require additional sedation until they have fully cleared the anesthetic drugs from their systems,” he says. Ideally, your veterinarian will have a “recovery room” that is dimly lit and quiet, away from noises and activity that could agitate recovering patients even further.
Dr. Pypendop ticks off a laundry list of other breed tendencies to keep in mind with anesthesia: Certain herding breeds, such as Australian Shepherds, Collies, and Border Collies, carry a genetic mutation that makes them more sensitive to some drugs, including those used for sedation and anesthesia. Some breeds are predisposed to diseases that can increase anesthesia risks; miniature Schnauzers, for example, have a relatively high incidence of sick sinus syndrome, which creates heart-rhythm problems, or arrhythmias. And some Boxers appear to be sensitive to acepromazine.
“Size plays an important role, as smaller and toy breeds are at a higher risk for hypothermia during and after anesthesia,” Dr. Clark-Price says. Regardless of breed, your veterinarian should provide warming blankets or other heat support during surgery, to keep your dog’s body temperature from plummeting.
“And brachycephalic breeds – Pugs, Bulldogs, anything with a ‘smashed’ face – may have difficulty with airway management during and after anesthesia,” he continues. “These animals may require very close monitoring after anesthesia to make sure they do not obstruct their airways.”
What You Can Do
Most dog owners know that withholding food and water before anesthesia is standard procedure; typically, your veterinarian will ask you to start fasting your dog at midnight on the day of surgery.
“Adequate fasting is important to limit the incidence of vomiting, regurgitation, or gastroesophageal reflux during anesthesia,” Dr. Pypendop explains.
Let your vet know about any medications you are giving your dog – including herbal supplements and nutraceuticals – and ask for guidance on what you should and should not give on the day of surgery.
Many vets will require or strongly suggest that pre-operative bloodwork be done to ensure that there are no imbalances or underlying conditions that could complicate surgery. (See our article about blood tests, “It’s in the Blood,” WDJ March 2015.)
Dr. Clark-Price notes that obesity is a risk factor for complications during anesthesia, and for some elective procedures, it might be advisable for your dog to take off a few pounds before going under. The best way to decide if postponement is the best option is in consultation with your veterinarian, who should also be involved in any weight-loss program you implement.
Though owners are understandably anxious to get their dogs back home after surgery, Dr. Pypendop warns against “rushing the procedure.” Instead, give your veterinarian time to adequately monitor your dog’s post-anesthesia recovery. That said, “some individuals may be extremely anxious in a hospital environment,” he says, “so optimal care should be decided on a case-by-case basis.”
With plenty of communication and a little research, you can let your dog undergo anesthesia with the confidence that he’ll emerge from his big fat nap none the worse for wear.
Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, teenaged triplets, and a very patient husband.
It’s incredible how many aspects of our lives have been enhanced and transformed by technology in just the past few years. Anyone who uses a computer or mobile phone is at least aware of his or her ability to obtain recommendations for businesses or directions to a location. If you’re a dog owner and need a reputable emergency veterinary clinic in a strange town, having the tools to find such a clinic and get there in record time may literally save a dog’s life. But web- and mobile-device-based technology can also be used by dog owners in countless other important ways – and we’re sharing some of the most fun and useful ones with you.
Note: This article deals with high-technology, web- or mobile-device-based products and services that dog owners can use to help manage their dogs’ health and to improve their enjoyment and experiences with their dogs. The companies that provide these products are technology-based themselves – and as such, tend to follow the modern trend of being available to consumers and clients only through email or “contact us” forms accessed through their websites.
There’s an app for that
Mobile-device applications – better known as “apps” – are a convenient way to keep information and tools at your fingertips. Many of the apps discussed below are available in free and paid versions; the paid versions offer more bells and whistles. Some apps are designed for either Apple or Android phones only, while others are available in both platforms. To download or purchase these apps, check iTunes (for Apple products) or Google Play (for Android phones and e-readers).
Looking for a dog to adopt? Try the BarkBuddy app (the Tinder for finding dogs to adopt), which sources photos from Petfinder.com and allows users to swipe through profiles of dogs in their area and use sliders to filter by gender, age, activity level, and size.
Social networking apps abound to help you meet people who love their dogs as much as you love yours, find a play-mate for your dog, or locate dog-friendly businesses. Meet My Dog is a private social network that allows dog owners to discover, connect, and share with other dog owners in their community.
It’s impossible to be familiar with all the different breeds of dogs, especially when it seems that new ones show up every day, so having a breed-guide app at your fingertips can be handy. Perfect Dog Pro is only one of the many breed identification apps available. This app lists hundreds of breeds, complete with photos and descriptions. While it has an “identify” function that works through your selection of the dog’s physical characteristics, I’m waiting for the ability to upload a photo and have the app search for a match. What a boon that would be for shelter workers!
If you need help taking a great photo of your dog, the Dog Boogie app has built-in sound effects to assist you in getting the dog’s attention. It also enables you to create a profile for your dog and share it with a community of dog people as well as with Facebook and Twitter, or send via email. BarkCam is a similar app, offering sounds of interest to your dog and sharing capabilities, but it also includes features to add filters, quotes, or meme text directly to the image.
My favorite sound-effect app is iSqueek; if you love to squeak dog toys as much as most dogs do, you will love this app, too. It allows you to choose from among 18 virtual squeaky dog toys that react realistically when touched. Each toy has a unique action and sound, utilizing the touch screens and speaker of your mobile device. This app was developed as a tribute to the developer’s dog, Hemmy; it allows the developer to have the sound of the deceased dog’s favorite toy with him at all times.
Want to start clicker training? Or do you just want more information about what it is? iClicker is a dog-training app that features tutorials and a digital clicker. Available for iPhones and iPads only.
Health-related Apps
Dog-related apps are not all frivolous fun; some developers have a sincere interest in helping you keep your dog healthy.
The ASPCA’s mobile app provides a wealth of features, including access to a personalized pet-recovery kit for when your pet goes missing; critical advice to ensure your pet’s safety before, during, and after a disaster (even when there is no data connectivity); the ability to store and manage pet records; and relevant news alerts regarding animal welfare.
There are numerous apps for pet first aid. The top-rated ones include Pet First Aid by the American Red Cross and Pet First Aid for Your Dog, Cat, Puppy, or Kitten. These apps are easy to use and include life-saving information such as emergency tools and contacts as well as first aid tips. There’s also information about disaster preparedness, emergency dog-management tools (including muzzles and restraints), and medication administration, as well as a pet profile feature where you can maintain your dog’s health records.
Similarly, other pet-health apps such as Pet Phone and Pet Master Pro provide a way for you to keep all your pet’s details – medical conditions, special needs, insurance info, appointment management, identification details, photos, veterinary contacts – on your digital device.
PupTox is a handy guide to more than 250 items that are toxic to dogs and cats, categorized by beverages and liquids, foods and solids, chemicals, non-food plants, and other common hazards. It’s not created for emergency situations (it does not include first aid), but it can help you be more informed about pet hazards. It’s worth installing on your phone for its chocolate-toxicity calculator alone.
The petMD Symptom Checker allows the user to search more than 2,500 articles on dog and cat health based on the symptoms selected. Each article includes a detailed description of a condition and its symptoms, causes, diagnosis, treatment options, and prevention. It’s easy to use: simply choose dog or cat, select the area on a diagram of a dog that is presenting with an issue, then check off the related symptoms. A list of articles will be offered that may offer insight to your pet’s condition. It’s not possible for the app to be comprehensive, but it can guide the user to understanding a number of general pet-health issues.
Here’s an awesome app that can be used to test your dog’s urine for signs of diabetes, urinary tract infection, crystals, liver disease, a dangerous level of dehydration, ketonuria, proteinuria, and anemia: the Petnostics Mobile App and Petnostics Urine Cup. Using the cup, you collect a small sample of your dog’s urine; the lid of the cup is made with reagent test strips, and the test begins when you put the lid on the cup and turn it over. After just a minute, using your iPhone’s camera, the app will give you the test results and indicate whether you should seek veterinary attention for your dog or all is well. At $10 per cup, this is a relatively inexpensive test that can help you determine when a vet visit is in order.
Dosecast is a very useful medication-reminder app. While not designed specifically for pets, it works well for those of us whose dogs have to be given medications on a schedule. This flexible app allows you to program a custom administration schedule based on daily, weekly, monthly, or variable day/hour requirements and sends notifications at the specified intervals. Dose amounts and instructions can also be customized, with the ability to set maximum dosages to help avoid overdosing. The pro edition logs history and compliance, including late and missed doses, tracks quantity and provides refill alerts, and supports multiple pets on the same app. The app can also track contacts, pharmacy, and prescribing veterinarians. In the United States, the app connects to a drug database that allows you to easily find the medication to add to your dog’s profile.
Monitor your dog
As I was putting the finishing touches on this article, my dog’s veterinarian and I became concerned that my senior dog, Duncan, might have a seizure while I was away (I had arrived home to find a possible residual symptom). It was time to put monitoring technology into action.
My colleague Lisa Lyle Waggoner of Cold Nose College often uses monitoring technology with her separation anxiety clients, so I asked her for a recommendation. She replied quickly with her favorite, the Presence home-monitoring app.
Within an hour, I had located two older iPhones that did not have provider service, and, using wi-fi, downloaded the free Presence app onto each of them. With the app also downloaded onto my in-use iPhone, I linked the three devices, and placed the older ones in spots with strategic viewing angles of the areas where I suspect Duncan spends most of his time while I’m away. Not only does Presence allow live viewing, it has a motion detector option that can be adjusted to be sensitive to varying degrees of movement (I’ve set it to be activated by tiny movements) – and to record when triggered. The app sends push notifications to my phone whenever motion is detected. I’m hoping that my remote viewing turns out to be super dull. Or at least finally provide proof that Duncan reads books when I’m not there!
I’m looking forward to having the capability to monitor specific aspects of Duncan’s health with a biometric monitor. Whistle Labs, Inc. (which merged with former competitor Tagg), says it will release the Tagg GPS Plus device this summer, featuring an air-temperature sensor that will send alerts to your phone when your pet’s environment becomes too hot or too cold. Tagg also allows you to monitor and follow your pet’s activity and track your pet’s location with advanced GPS and cellular technology.
The Whistle Activity Monitor is a similar product, attaching to your dog’s collar and recording his activities throughout the day, producing a record of your dog’s day-to-day behavior as well as long-term trends. See whistle.com for more information about both of these products.
FitBark is another device that attaches to your dog’s collar and records how much time she spends at different activity levels. You can view how your dog is doing at any point in the day through real-time updates via the FitBark base station or another authorized device. You can share your dog’s quantified data with your veterinarian or compare your dog’s activity level to guidelines of similar breed dogs. The device also provides a family messenger function, a to-do list, a journal, and an option to share your dog’s activity via social media. See fitbark.com.
i4C Innovations is taking the application of technology for monitoring canine health and fitness a step further. The soon-to-be-released Voyce smart collar, developed by a team of biomedical engineers, dog experts, and Cornell University, features a sensor-enhanced collar (non-invasive, radio-frequency-based) that will be able to monitor and record key vital signs, including heart and respiratory rates as well as activity, rest, and calories burned. The collected data will be archived, providing an overview of your dog’s health history and trends, and will be conveniently accessible through all major browsers on desktops, tablets, and smartphones, as well as easily shared with your dog’s caregivers.
Additionally, Voyce will offer exclusive content to members including tools such as medication reminders, medical-records storage, and a symptom checker. This types of wearable activity monitor can provide data that will help you understand your dog’s health and behavior, and make appropriate changes to his diet and exercise programs. See mydogsvoyce.com.
Technology has taken even a greater leap toward protecting working dogs (such as those in law enforcement), especially with biometrics. These dogs often face unavoidable life-threatening situations every day, ranging from mission-specific dangers to environmental challenges. And unfortunately, many of these valuable dogs suffer or die from heat-related injuries.
To provide an extra layer of occupational health and safety for these canines, Virtual Armor has developed a small telemetry sensor that is surgically implanted in the dog’s neck to monitor body temperature with a GPS component to aid in location finding. When the dog’s temperature approaches critical condition, the handler is notified by email or text message. See virtual-armor.com for more information.
Dog gone?
Technology is increasingly finding useful ways to help us know where our pets are at all times.
Like a visual microchip, the digital pet-identification tags by PetHub embed a Quick Response (QR) code (a machine-readable optical label) on the back of a metal engraved ID tag that others can scan should they find your pet. When a person scans your pet’s tag with their smart device, it will display your contact data and pet’s information. The premium service option delivers an even better tool: it immediately notifies you via text message if your pet’s tag has been scanned. The basic service is free; for a minimal charge, you can upgrade the account to include instant found pet alerts, scanned location information, real-time GPS, shelter alerts, and partner discounts. See pethub.com.
Want to keep track of where your dog is at all time? Marco Polo, PeTronix RoamEO, Loc8tor GPS Tracker, Gibi, Trax, Tagg, and PocketFinder are just a few of the pet-location-monitoring products on the market. These devices come in the form of a dedicated collar or a small apparatus that attaches to your dog’s existing collar.
Most of these products utilize GPS tracking transmitted via signal to a dedicated receiver, such as computer or mobile device. Some rely on a dedicated provider network and all require some sort of subscription fee.
Most of these products allow you to set up virtual boundaries and send you alerts if your dog leaves the designated area. The devices offer a range of options such as water resistance, waterproofing, use with multiple dogs, rechargeable batteries, real-time update capabilities, ability to function in other countries, various sizes and weights, ability to track speed, ability to share capabilities with others, and ability to store tracking history. For more information, see eurekaproducts.com (Marco Polo); pettonix.com (PetTronix RoamEO); loc8tor.com (Loc8tor GPS Tracker); getgibi.com (Gibi); traxfamily.com (Trax); pettracker.com (Tagg); and pocketfinder.com (Pocket Finder).
The Finding Rover app and website is fairly new to the market. It utilizes facial-recognition software to reconnect owners and their lost dogs. A front-facing photo with a clear image of the dog’s nose and eyes (the most important features the technology uses to identify the pet) is uploaded to the site and Finding Rover.com keeps the file in their system. Finders of dogs can upload images of found dogs and Finding Rover scans its database for a match. Finding Rover’s network is growing, and includes shelters, vets, rescue groups, other dog-related organizations, and social media. The free service is available on smart devices and the Internet. See findingrover.com.
Pet Position is similar in that its goal is to help find missing pets fast. This app allows you to send and receive notification alerts of pets that are missing in your area. There’s even an integrated local missing-pets database. The app is free, but sending alerts requires an in-app purchase (a function that limits false alerts). Additional features include a walk tracker and locator for pet-related businesses. See petposition.com.
Out and About
There are lots of apps that can gather information about how much exercise you and your dog get on a walk or run.
MapMyWalk is meant for mapping human’s walks, but is an ideal crossover product for dog walking. This fitness-tracking application uses the built-in GPS of a mobile device to track not only the route of your walk (or run) on an interactive map, but records the duration, distance, pace, speed, elevation, and calories burned and saves it as historical data. See mapmywalk.com.
Specifically designed for use with dogs, Paw Tracks is a walking tracker that can be shared with friends and groups. Similarly, it has a GPS function that keeps track of the route, notes the time, and calculates the distance, and duration of the outing. It also offers options to note the time your dog eliminates (“Log a Poo,” “Log a Pee”), or is given a meal, making it a convenient app for caregivers to use in order to share up-to-date information about your dog and his schedule. See pawtracksapp.com.
Why just walk when you can raise funds for your favorite animal organization at the same time? WoofTrax’s “Walk for a Dog” app supports an animal organization of your choice every time you take a dog for a walk, be it your own dog, a shelter dog, or as part of your business.
It’s easy to use; when you begin a walk, you simply press the “Start Walking for [Organization]” button. The app tracks your walk for the fundraising benefit, and maps your route and keeps a history log, with route, duration, distance, and speed. When you’re done, simply hit stop and the walk is credited to your selected shelter.
There are currently more than 4,000 organizations registered for benefits from the app, and more are added every day. If your favorite 501(c)(3) non-profit shelter isn’t there, you can request that it be added as a beneficiary. Donations are funded by sponsorship, advertising, and investors; WoofTrax distributes funds twice a year with notification to participants via email, Facebook, and Twitter. The more walks, the more WoofTrax can donate; it’s really that simple.
A savvy professional dog-walking colleague, Elisabeth Rosen, checked with her favorite rescue to verify that WoofTrax was a legitimate operation and following through on donations before she starting using the app. Rosen’s favorite feature is the option to upload photos of and information about the dogs she walks. See wooftrax.com.
Need to find someone to walk your dog? The Trottr app allows the user to search for a local professional dog walker, including those available for same-day and on-demand service. According to the app, these dog walkers have been “vetted, trained, certified, bonded, and insured.” (For more information on choosing a dog walker, see WDJ March 2014.) The app shows any given walker’s availability and provides information about him or her. Walks are private, timed, and tracked with GPS; payment is made with an in-app function. See trottr.us.
You can search for places to go on outings with your dog with the Dog Park Finder Plus by DogGoes.com. This app lists more than 6,600 dog-friendly parks, beaches, and hikes with details such fees, size, descriptions, and photos of each location. Dog-friendly restaurants and interstate rest stops are also listed. With search and browse functions and reviews and ratings, this is an ideal app to use when traveling or for exploring your local area with your dog
Another great app for traveling with your dog is BringFido; it allows you to browse pet-friendly destinations worldwide and provides information on accommodations, attractions, travel guides, restaurants, events, and pet-specific services that welcome you and your dog. You can even book reservations directly through the app. Additional features include dog-related forums, reviews, and interfaces with Facebook and Twitter. See bringfido.com.
Dogalize provides a similar service but is specifically dog-oriented. Search and locate dog-friendly places such as parks, restaurants, hotels, veterinarians, pet shops, kennels, and more. Users can share experiences and multimedia content such as posts, photos, and videos with other dog owners.
I don’t know of anyone who has used the DogVacay app or website, but apparently it’s trending. It’s been referred to as the Airbnb for dogs – designed to help you find boarding for your dog with a pet sitter, in your home or theirs. You can search for sitters in your area, read reviews, schedule, book, and pay online. DogVacay also provides insurance for veterinary care for every booking while your pet is under the care, control, and custody of the host. While all pet sitters listed through this app are reported to be reviewed and approved, remember to check the sitter out personally; the service does include a “Meet-n-Greet” option.
Listen and Watch
Podcasts allow me to feel like I’m a programmer of my own radio station. My all-time favorite dog-related podcast is “The Dog Trainer” (quickanddirtytips.com/dog-trainer). Host Jolanta Benal, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, gives dog behavior, training, and care an intelligent and witty voice.
Another enjoyable podcast comes from pet expert Steve Dale, who hosts a one-hour weekly show, “Pet World.” Don’t have an hour? Check out his Pet Minute, a daily dose of short, important topics related to pets. These podcasts are available from iTunes or directly through Dale’s website: petworldradio.net.
Veterinarian Andy Roark hosts a smart weekly YouTube show entitled “Cone of Shame.” I never fail to laugh at or learn something from these smart and humorous videos about veterinary topics. Check them out at drandyroark.com/cone-of-shame.
Here today . . .
Things move fast in the high-tech world. I can only imagine how many technology-based items for dogs have been created just in the time it’s taken me to write this article. The Pet Tutor recently announced that it is making its system “open development,” allowing customers to create custom solutions with access to apps and hardware from other developers. Every time I heard about a new app and would look at it, I would find at least a dozen more new ones.
Conversely, the makers of some of the products I wanted to include in this article went out of business by the time the article was edited and fact-checked. I hope, however, that you find some of these products to be as useful or fun as I have.
While the concept of energy-based healing might be tough for some people to accept, professional animal trainer and flower essence practitioner Jennifer White of Woodinville, Washington, has a large database of client success stories to draw upon. It includes a 3-year-old service dog who was on the verge of being retired due to extreme car sickness. The dog had exhibited symptoms of nausea – drooling and panting – since early puppyhood, and he never outgrew the problem.
“The client needed to drive to work everyday, and the car sickness was so significant that the dog was becoming generally anxious and was losing his willingness to work,” White says. “Eventually, the dog started to balk at having his special bracing harness put on, because he knew it meant leaving the house and riding in the car.” The client tried several suggestions to no avail, and turned to flower essences as a last hope for helping a dog that was her otherwise-perfect partner.
White created a custom blend designed to address car-related stress, and recommended a systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning protocol. Within a week, the dog’s car sickness symptoms lessened, and after two weeks, he was offering a positive response to the bracing harness with a renewed enthusiasm for his work.
“She ordered refills for about three months, at which time I encouraged her to taper the doses. She finally released her reliance on the regular doses and saw that the dog was no longer stuck in the anxiety cycle of car sickness that seemed impossible to break,” White recalls.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
