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What To Do If Your Dog Gets Motion Sickness

dog being held upside down
Of the five motion sickness exercises described here, three involve movements that challenge the vestibular apparatus: holding the puppy so her head is up and tail is down; the reverse, where her tail is up and head is down; and holding the puppy on her back with her feet up. Photo courtesy of loyallabradors.com

Five magic words: “Wanna go for a ride?” These six simple syllables are enough to launch some dogs into a dizzying display of tail-wagging leaps and spins in eager anticipation of the fun to be found in a car buzzing along the open road. In contrast, though, are the dogs who find car rides as much fun as most humans do root canals. For some dogs, the dislike is physical; they experience motion sickness and battle with nausea, drooling, and vomiting. For others, it’s emotional, and the dog suffers from anxiety associated with riding in the car. Unfortunately, the two causes can overlap, where a dog initially experiences physical motion sickness and comes to associate the unpleasant feelings with the car, which leads to anxiety related to riding in the car.

There are a number of factors that can contribute to motion sickness in dogs.

It’s not uncommon for young puppies to experience physical motion sickness related to issues with the vestibular apparatus – the part of a mammal’s body that deals with balance and spatial orientation, explains Jennifer Jones Shults, DVM, CCRT, of Veterinary Rehabilitation and Pain Management Hospital in Cary, North Carolina. The vestibular apparatus is found in the inner ear, and consists of three fluid-filled semicircular canals. When the head moves, fluid within the canals shifts, stimulating the tiny hairs that line the canal to transmit information to the brain.

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A young puppy’s body takes time to mature. For some dogs, motion sickness is the result of a vestibular system that is not yet fully developed – which is why many puppies seem to outgrow motion sickness caused by car rides as they get older.

“Young dogs with vestibular issues usually outgrow it by 5-6 months of age,” Dr. Shults says. “But bigger dogs can take longer. For example, a Great Dane isn’t considered fully mature until 2 years old, so his ear canals might take longer to reach full development than those of a Toy Poodle, who is usually fully grown somewhere between 9 to 12 months old.”

Although it takes time for the ear canals and processing centers of the brain to fully develop, not all puppies experience motion sickness. Why Puppy A handles early car rides like a champ when Puppy B is consistently car sick is not yet fully understood.

“It could be as simple as a puppy’s ear canals or semicircular canals still being too small to handle the rapid shifts in direction or the acceleration of the car, or it could have to do with what the puppy was exposed to in his first eight weeks – like rolling play with littermates or being handled upside down, which cultivates the still-developing vestibular centers in the brain. Or it could be a combination of the two,” Dr. Shults says.

Prevent Car Vomiting

Some people believe that early exposure to specific movements that challenge the vestibular apparatus can prove beneficial in protecting a puppy from experiencing motion sickness once he leaves the litter.

Heidi Mobley of Sanger, Texas, has bred Australian Shepherds for more than 25 years. She uses the Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) or “Bio Sensor” protocol, first designed by the United States military as a way to help its working dogs grow up to reach their maximum potential. Mobley says very few of her puppies have gone on to develop motion sickness.

“I think it helps create heartier puppies by helping to get them used to different movements at a very early age,” she says.

The program consists of a series of five exercises that are done once daily between days 3 and 16. The mild stress, both as a result of being individually removed from the litter for a short time, and from the exercises themselves, stimulates the adrenal gland. It is thought that this strategic exposure to brief amounts of stress helps puppies respond better to stress later in life.

Of the five exercises, three involve specific movements that challenge the vestibular apparatus: holding the puppy so her head is up and tail is down; the reverse, where her tail is up and head is down; and holding the puppy on her back with her feet up.

“There’s a lot of research with babies that shows how early rolling movements can help the vestibular apparatus develop appropriately,” Dr. Shults says. “There aren’t any published studies showing that Early Neurological Stimulation will decrease vestibular disease in dogs, but the conduct is similar to what they recommend with children, and that has been studied in great detail. Anytime you’re upside down or on your back, the fluid in the semicircular canal has to shift, so it’s essentially like practice, and I think that makes sense.”

Nature vs. Nurture

The question of nature versus nature often comes into play when looking at animal behavior, and issues surrounding dog-related car trouble are no different. While some dogs experience motion sickness stemming from a physical issue – the vestibular apparatus – for other dogs, the problem is emotional; it’s literally all in their heads.

With that in mind, it’s extremely important that a puppy’s early exposure to the car be a positive experience. As a breeder, Mobley makes sure she’s the first person to introduce her puppies to riding in the car. She schedules the first trip for sometime between 6 and 7 weeks old, and has the puppies travel together with their mother to help keep them relaxed and comfortable. Then she specifically avoids car rides until the puppies are 10 weeks old – which means her puppies don’t typically leave for their new homes until that age.

“That’s the clincher,” she says. “The puppies I see going home between 8 and 9 weeks old are leaving during the imprint stage; if they get sick during that time, that’s when we end up with dogs who get car sick for the next two years or so. I’ve seen it happen again and again,” she adds, noting the especially strong potential for the lasting impact of negative experiences during that critical age.

Socialization Benefits for Motion Sickness

Early, effective socialization plays a key role in helping puppies and young dogs develop a positive association with riding in the car. If the only time a dog rides in the car is when he’s driven to the vet, the groomer, or the boarding kennel, there’s a good chance he’ll decide that car rides are something to be concerned about. When people get a new dog, one of the first car rides is usually to the vet for the initial wellness exam, which is often stressful.

It’s important that puppies and dogs have ample opportunities to experience the car as a portal to fun. As a trainer, I challenge my students to schedule “cookie visits” at their vet’s office, where they visit the office during a slow period simply to hang out in the waiting room, eat cookies, play with a toy if willing, schmooze with any available staff, and then go home.

Similarly, planning several short rides to fun places can help teach a dog that riding in the car is a good thing. Drive to the park for a fun walk. Drive to a friend’s house for a play date. Or even drive to your favorite fast-food restaurant where your dog gets a small bite of food from the drive-through.

Treating Motion Sickness & Car-Anxiety

To help reduce the chance that your dog will experience motion sickness, or to help minimize its effects, both Dr. Shults and Mobley recommend positioning the puppy or dog in the car so that he’s facing the direction of travel.

“The ocular center in a puppy’s brain hasn’t really developed enough for him to understand going backward; they understand going forward,” Shults says. Whether it’s riding restrained via a seatbelt or inside a carrier, facing forward helps the brain make sense of what is going on, which can lessen the chance of motion sickness. “Basically, we’re providing input though the eyes that helps the dog know which way is up,” Dr. Shults says.

Many dogs who suffer from motion sickness do better when the windows are open about three inches, to help equalize the air pressure in the car. Traveling on an empty stomach can help minimize the effects of motion sickness, and dogs who battle with motion sickness often do better if they’ve been well exercised a few hours before travel, to aid with their overall relaxation.

When riding with a dog who is getting car sick, it’s important for the owner to remain calm. A negative or hysterical response to a dog throwing up in the car can easily add to a dog’s anxiety.

There are also several natural and pharmaceutical approaches to treating motion sickness and its associated anxiety:

Homeopathic Cocculus 30c – Donna Kelleher, DVM, author of The Last Chance Dog: True Stories of Holistic Animal Healing and The Proof is in the Poodle, runs a holistic veterinary practice in Seattle, Washington, and offers a membership-based website designed to help teach people about natural treatments for a variety of chronic problems plaguing pets.

She recommends a homeopathic treatment: one pellet of Cocculus, given shortly before travel. When dosing homeopathic remedies, technique matters. The pellets should not be touched, nor should they be given by hiding them in food. Either transfer the pellets from the bottle cap directly into the dog’s mouth, or crush with the back of a metal spoon, add a bit of water, and spoon the mixture into the mouth. It’s important not to touch the pellets because that can interfere with the remedy’s vibrational force.

Homeopathic remedies such as Cocculus and flower essences (discussed below) are two of several therapies classified as “vibrational medicine.” Living organisms are multidimensional energy systems. When imbalance occurs, the energy is at a less harmonious frequency, which leads to physical and emotional symptoms. Natural-minded practitioners select certain remedies for their specific energies, with the goal of restoring balance.

– Ginger – Ginger is widely regarded as an anti-nausea remedy. Dr. Kelleher recommends making a ginger tea by steeping two tablespoons of fresh grated ginger in one cup of water, and once cooled, spooning one tablespoon per 20 pounds of the dog’s body weight into the dog the night before travel, and again an hour prior to departure.

Ginger can also be found in capsule form, and some people have reported success by sprinkling a small amount into the dog’s food. Dr. Kelleher’s preference is for fresh ginger, and if not using the tea, she would rather hide a tiny piece of fresh ginger in the dog’s food than use capsule form.

Many people who have heard about the anti-nausea properties of ginger will reach for the ginger cookie; Mobley reports success with helping many client dogs overcome motion sickness through a combination of ginger cookies and behavior modification.

If trying cookies, be sure to look for a high-quality ginger snap. The “ginger cookie” in the cookie isle of the typical mainstream grocery store is likely to be lower quality as compared to the ginger snap found in a higher-end market. For example, ginger is the seventh ingredient in a Nabisco Ginger Snap, versus the fourth ingredient in a Trader Joe’s Triple Ginger Snap. However, both versions contain sugar and flour, which many holistic practitioners, including Dr. Kelleher, recommend avoiding.

– Scullcap – Scutellaria Lateriflora is an herb that has been used for hundreds of years as a mild relaxant and as a therapy for anxiety and nervousness. Dr. Kelleher says it is safe to use with other drugs, and can be dosed at 1/2 of a capsule per 15 pounds of body weight, given one hour before travel. This won’t address nausea, but can help relieve the anxiety (panting, shaking, etc.) often experienced by dogs who have motion sickness.

– Flower Essences – Flower essences are said to be catalysts for emotional change. They are thought to trigger a balancing response in the body and are most effective when given in 3 to 6 doses throughout the day. In acute cases, a dose can be given every five minutes. Flower essences are usually found in liquid form and can be given orally, rubbed into paw pads, ear flaps, and on the belly, sprayed in the environment or on the dog’s bedding, added to water, or even added to food and treats.

The following flower-essence blends are commercially available and considered helpful as part of a desensitization and counter-conditioning protocol to address motion sickness and car-related anxiety:

– Soul Support – Contains Cattail Pollen, Chalice Well, Cotton Grass, Fireweed, Labrador Tea, Malachite, River Beauty, Ruby, and White Fireweed.

– Rescue Remedy – Contains Impatiens, Star of Bethlehem, Cherry Plum, Rock Rose, and Clematis.

– Drama Trauma – Similar to Rescue Remedy, but with double the amount of Star of Bethlehem and the addition of Star Tulip to aid in emotional grounding.

– Chiropractic Adjustment – Misalignment of vertebrae can create a variety of health and wellness issues in both people and pets, ranging from low energy and slow healing to headaches, irritability, balance issues and all levels of pain. Danielle Shelbourne of Urban Dog Training in Brisbane, Australia, has helped numerous animal clients find relief from motion sickness by working with a qualified animal chiropractor.

“We’ve found that subluxations of the atlas (C1, the topmost vertebrae, which connects to the occipital bone at the top of the head) can cause pressure around the inner ear and cause motion sickness,” says Shelbourne. “In a dog, the atlas is a large butterfly-shaped bone that can misalign easily during normal activity. Some dogs are born with vertebral subluxations, or they can develop from such activities as pulling on the leash.”

Shelbourne says that dogs with a C1 subluxation often experience not only motion sickness, but also display thunderstorm phobia, are sensitive to handling, especially around the head and heck, and can be reactive and aggressive in a variety of settings.

“In our experience, if a dog has three of these issues, we would definitely recommend chiropractic treatment, and we’d be fairly confident that the dog’s outcome would be positive,” Shelbourne says, noting that, while an adjustment might resolve the physical issue, behavior modification might still be necessary to counter a learned negative association with car travel.

William Strickland, DC, of Rose City Veterinary Hospital in Pasadena, California, has been working with animals for nearly 17 years. Cervical subluxations and soft tissue abnormalities, he says, likely contribute to motion sickness indirectly by creating imbalance. While he’s not had a client visit him with the sole complaint of motion sickness, he has seen dogs with handling sensitivities and aggression issues who also suffer from motion sickness.

Subluxations are subtle but powerful. It’s not uncommon for animals (human or canine) to experience subluxations that don’t cause symptoms that are obvious to the untrained eye, yet still create imbalance in the body. Not only does the imbalance create its own issues, but it leads to compensatory problems as the dog navigates through life in a poorly aligned state.

“One of the biggest benefits of chiropractic is as a modality for restoring balance to the entire body – the soft tissue, bones, and joints,” says Dr. Strickland. In the case of a dog with motion sickness, he says the improvement is likely the result of the animal being in overall better balance. A body out of physiologic balance can also have a harder time literally balancing while in the car, which can contribute to motion sickness.

While some people mistakenly view animal chiropractic as a heavy-handed, bone-crunching technique, Dr. Strickland notes that qualified, experienced animal chiropractors follow a “less is more” mentality, and frequently use an activator adjusting instrument, a small, hand-held tool, to painlessly deliver a gentle impulse force to the spine.

“It’s effective on babies and the elderly,” he says. “If we can safely use it on a baby or a 97-year-old grandpa, it’s certainly safe for animals of all sizes.”

Dr. Strickland notes, however, that it is important to look for a practitioner who has advanced training and experience in animal chiropractic as a specialty and to always consult with your veterinarian first to rule out a more serious cause of dysfunction or disease.

– Tactile techniques – Some dogs are also comforted by tactile techniques, such as Tellington TTouch Training, or by wearing a compression garment such as a ThunderShirt.

Medication

Conventional veterinarians have a number of prescription medications available to prescribe for dogs with serious motion sickness.

– Meclizine – The drug is sold over the counter under the brand names Antivert, Bonine, and Dramamine Less Drowsy. Dr. Shults says the generally accepted dose is one tablet for big dogs and half of a tablet for small dogs. However, it’s always wise to consult with your veterinarian before administering medications designed for human use.

– Maropitant Citrate – Sold as Cerenia®, this is the first, and currently only, FDA-approved veterinary medication designed to prevent vomiting in dogs due to motion sickness, and based on how it works, can often be more effective than meclizine.

“Meclizine works on the chemo-receptor trigger zone and on the histamine receptors in the brain,” Dr. Shults explains. “Research is showing those parts of the brain aren’t as involved in motion sickness as the substance-P receptors and the NK1 receptors, which is what Cerenia works on. That’s why the meclizine products might work on some dogs, but might not be strong enough for all dogs.”

Anxitane® (L-Theanine) – Manufactured by Virbac Animal Health, this prescription product made with L-Theanine, an amino acid found in green tea leaves, can help reduce environmental stress in both dogs and cats, and is said to help dogs with mild-moderate anxiety related to fireworks, thunderstorms, car rides, social settings and geriatric issues. Like scullcap, Anxitane doesn’t address the physical symptoms of motion sickness, but, when paired with a behavior modification plan, can help lessen the dog’s resulting anxiety.

It’s important to note that all of the approaches discussed thus far should complement, but not replace, a thoughtful behavior modification program. Helping your dog to consciously and subconsciously feel happier and more confident near and in the car will increase the odds that any other approach will be successful in improving or eliminating his motion sickness.

Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning

The goal of a solid anxiety-reduction training plan is to alter a dog’s behavior patterns by changing the way he feels about a specific situation. This is more than just getting used to riding in the car – it’s about creating a situation where the dog can associate car travel with something good.

In developing a training plan, we must first evaluate where the desired behavior has broken down. Dogs who fear riding in the car might have already learned that when the owner holds the leash and stands by the door leading to the garage, that a car ride is imminent, and, as a result, the dog resists coming to the owner in that setting.

Think of the finished behavior (calmly riding in the car) as a series of behavioral puzzle pieces that must each be tackled individually. The owner’s job, often with the help of a qualified trainer, is to help the dog become comfortable with one puzzle piece before progressing to the next. Trying to skip steps can easily backfire, as it’s not only likely that some of the previous progress will be destroyed, but the dog can be left feeling distrustful of the owner.

Remember, the goal is not just for the dog to “appear fine,” but to take the time to build a positive association with each puzzle piece. If the dog is only ever just barely “fine” with a situation under normal circumstances (for any behavior) it’s far more likely that he will actively resist the same situation under times of stress. Taking the time to build positive associations is like creating emotional padding. He might not be as relaxed and happy about the situation in times of stress (for example, in the car along a windy road or in stop-and-go traffic) as he was during training. But with some “padding,” if his behavior degrades, it’s more likely that he’ll tolerate the situation and still be fine, rather than experience an emotional meltdown. Reducing an animal’s stress makes life more pleasant for him and you. And, it’s healthier! Repeated exposure to high amounts of stress has been proven to be unhealthy for both people and pets.

Desensitizing

Think about your dog; when does he start to show signs of anxiety? Identifying the activities or locations that trigger his anxiety is critical for mapping out his behavior modification plan. Your desensitization and counter-conditioning plan should start in a place where the dog is “under threshold” – that is, has no apprehension and shows no sign of stress.

Let’s say your dog’s apprehension about being in a car starts with him balking at the sight of you holding his leash by the door. Start by picking up his leash somewhere else in the house, not anywhere near the “door of danger,” and then giving the dog some treats. When he willingly approaches (which he should do as long as you are far enough away from the place where he might otherwise feel concerned), ask him to sit, attach his leash, offer a treat or two, praise lavishly, and remove the leash.

Repeat 3 to 5 more times, then release your dog to return to his day. Repeat this simple training session randomly throughout the day, but never follow the training session with a scary car ride.

When your dog happily approaches at the sight of you holding the leash away from the “door of danger,” repeat the process a little closer to the door. The goal is to work at a level where the dog remains confident. If he looks at all concerned, you’ve progressed too quickly. Only begin the next piece of your puzzle once your dog can confidently handle the previous piece.

Throughout this process, do not try to trick the dog! The point is not to stand farther from the door in order to more easily “catch” the dog before you need to take him somewhere. In extreme cases, it’s best to avoid car rides altogether until some significant progress in these small steps been made. This can be frustrating for the owner, especially when the dog is our best hiking buddy or ribbon-winning agility partner, but it’s important to weigh the long-term benefits (years of lower-or no-stress travel) against a few weeks or months of leaving the dog at home while you work on this process.

The goal is to very gradually get closer to taking the dog for normal car rides. But the steps taken toward that goal should be very small; you’ll have the best chance of success if you refrain from moving to the next step until the dog is consistently confident at the preceding steps.

For the dog who became apprehensive when the owner picked up his leash by the door, but was confident and happy when the owner picked up the leash elsewhere in the house, the next steps might be:

– Seeing the owner with the leash or harness near the exit point of the house leading to the car.
– Seeing the car in the garage or driveway from a distance.
– Standing next to the car.
– Being asked to enter the car (or asked to enter the carrier in his car, which might be an extra puzzle piece).
– Being in the car when it’s not running.
– Being in the car when it’s idling, but not moving.
– Being in the car when it’s moving.
– Going for a very short ride up the street.
– Going for a ride around the block.
– Going for a slightly longer ride to a really fun destination.

How quickly you progress through the steps will depend on the dog.

Remember, throughout this process, it’s critical that you remain calm. Avoid getting frustrated or angry at a dog who isn’t progressing as quickly as you’d like. This holds true for a dog who is getting physically sick, too; even the owner’s panicked exclamation of “Oh no! Gross!” can compound the dog’s emotional reaction.

While it can be frustrating to deal with a dog who has “car trouble,” understanding what’s behind the issue is an important first step in seeking relief. Developing a thoughtful plan of action – coupled with time and patience – will help put your dog on the road to recovery.

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Los Angeles. She shares her life with a career-change search-and-rescue dog whom she is teaching to play in agility.

It Really Works

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I’ve been using my friend Christine as a model for our training articles lately. She has lots of dog-handling experience, looks great in photos, has two very large dogs that we can use (and have) for the photo shoots, and isn’t fazed by anything I ask her to do for the photos.

That is, she hasn’t been fazed yet. But she definitely hesitated when we were taking the pictures of my middle-aged Chihuahua, Tito, for Pat Miller’s article on dogs who hate handling (see “What to Do if your Dog Hates Certain Husbandry Chores (Grooming, Harnessing, Trimming, etc.”). Christine takes care of my dogs when I have to leave town, so she knows Tito and his quirks.

When Tito came to live with us a few years ago, he belonged to my husband’s niece, who bought him as a puppy while still in college. Then she graduated and started looking for a job, and like a lot of young adults, sent her dog to stay with other people while she moved about; Tito had at least five different temporary homes before I was asked whether I could take him “for a few months.”

I said yes, even though I suspected he’d end up with us forever, because he can be a fun little guy. For all of his travails, he still likes people, especially those he’s met before; if you were friendly to him once, he will go crazy when you meet again. He has the most perfect manners on leash of any dog I’ve ever known, never ever allowing the leash to tighten for a moment. He’s a tennis ball addict, and he hikes and swims like a miniature Labrador!

But Tito does not like being picked up or carried. If someone tries to lift him off the ground (“Oh, what a cute little dog!”), they get a rude surprise – a dramatic snarl/bark and air-snap (he’s never actually bitten anyone).

I was educated by Pat Miller years ago to use counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) to change how a dog feels about things – and Tito has had a lot of these sessions over the past few years. For some time, I’ve been able to pick him up without a problem, and even trim his nails and brush his teeth. Other people can, too – as soon as Tito feels confident that they aren’t going to hurt him or force him to do something.

If he perceives a threat, Tito gets ready for battle. If you yell at him, he’ll immediately growl back. If you escalate, so will he. I’m certain that if someone tried to physically punish and force him to comply with something he hadn’t agreed to, he’d fight to his literal death.

But because he’s also experienced force-free training, with no negative consequences for failing to perform a certain behavior, and rich rewards for the tiniest increments of improvement, Tito now generally chooses to try to figure out and do what we want him to do.

When Tito and Christine first met – and she immediately tried to pick him up – she experienced his snarly “I don’t do dat!” response. So when I told her I wanted her to pick him up and clip his nails for some photos, she hesitated – not because she was afraid, but because she knows him well and didn’t want to push him into a corner.

We started by doing just that, in a mild way, because I knew we could elicit a snarl (or worse), by waving some clippers in his direction (see photo in What to Do if your Dog Hates Certain Husbandry Chores (Grooming, Harnessing, Trimming, etc). Then we started a CC&D session, with Christine giving him bits of chicken for his cooperation. Because we had started rudely, and pushed forward at an unrecommended fast pace (for the sake of the photos), Tito was wary at first. But when, halfway through the session that was supposed to lead up to clipping a single nail, Tito spontaneously hopped into Christine’s lap as if to say, C’mon, let’s get this over with!, she was surprised and touched. She didn’t hesitate at that point, though. Instead, she praised him, gave him some chicken, and clipped his nails!

Letters and Corrections: June 2015

In the May issue, we published an article, “Outfoxing Foxtails,” that included an endorsement of the Outfox Field Guard, a protective hood for dogs that is made out of a fine mesh, allowing the dog to run and breathe freely while protecting him from getting foxtails in his eyes, ears, nose, and mouth. We failed to include a phone number for the company that makes and sells the Outfox Field Guard, however. That number is (800) 261-7737. Orders may also be made online at outfoxfordogs.com. We regret the omission.

I want to thank you for your article, “How to Prevent a Bad Adoption” (WDJ May 2015). Having recently driven two and a half hours to see a rescued Border Collie who was nothing like his description, I found it very pertinent.

I’ve had multiple experiences during my search for a new dog that have led me to give up for the time being. I’ve decided, when I’m ready, I’ll buy a puppy from a reputable breeder. That way, I’ll have more of an idea what/whom I will be getting.

I am finding, from both my own and friends’ experiences, that it is more and more difficult to find a relatively sane dog to adopt. I have a theory about this. I think the rescue groups are focusing more and more on the dogs they perceive as “victims” and less on finding good pets who will fit decently in the home of the average owner. So, in order to place these damaged dogs, they have to cover up the truth about the extent of their behavioral and emotional problems.

I am very concerned that since so much room is being taken by the more damaged dogs, more adoptable dogs will end up being euthanized because there won’t be space for them. A case in point: the Korean dogs saved from being eaten a few months ago and shipped to several rescues in the U.S. Until recently, I was a volunteer at a shelter that took some of these dogs. The adults were adopted fairly quickly – and many were returned because of their extreme behaviors. The puppies were feral and dangerous and underwent intensive socialization. I don’t know the outcome because, frankly, I couldn’t stand to volunteer there anymore. But those dogs took up pens, and many hours of the staff trainers’ time. Both were limited resources that could have been devoted to more happily adoptable dogs.

Name withheld by request

Via email

I just read “Snake Aversion Without Shock” (WDJ May 2015). We live in Nova Scotia, where there are no poisonous snakes, but we do have porcupines. Our young Husky recently had to make an emergency trip to the vet for a face full of quills; thankfully we were just a car ride away. If the quilling happened on a camping trip it would have been very serious. The same training for snake avoidance would work for porcupine avoidance I should think! We will be giving it a try.

Peggy Hopper

Via email

Thanks for your comments, and sorry about your dog! The article mentioned that the exercises taught by both shock-free trainers mentioned in the article are also useful for dealing with dogs who chase toxic toads, skunks, or porcupines. While the dangers presented by the abovementioned are dramatic, it’s no less important to teach your dog to resist chasing cats or cars, or demonstrating a reliable “leave it” behavior when you drop one of your prescription medications or a chunk of dark chocolate.

I think my take on “Snake Aversion without Shock” will be unpopular. Although the idea sounds interesting, I want my dogs to be afraid of rattlesnakes, and stay away if they see, smell, or hear one. I live in the outskirts of Tucson, Arizona, and avoiding rattlesnakes is a matter of life and death in the Sonoran desert.

I don’t have a problem using a shock collar for rattlesnake aversion training; it is quick and will save their lives, maybe the dog owner’s life too. Force-free positive/clicker training is my choice for agility, tricks, obedience, etc. Force-free rattlesnake avoidance training would take too long, especially when you needed that training last week.

Colleen DeGrado
(Comment on WDJ website)

Thanks for the opportunity to respond to your concerns. Lots of owners regard force-free training as great for tricks and games, but not “serious training.”

However, force-free methods are used with great success to train dogs for very serious tasks that are also a matter of life and death. The best example is probably explosive detection training. In this type of training, the last thing they want to train the dogs to be is afraid. A dog that ran away when he detected the odor of certain chemicals would be of no use to anyone. Rather, in this training, they want the dogs to halt immediately and alert their handlers to the odor; then the handlers can give them a cue for the most appropriate next thing they should do, whether that’s continuing to hold still, back up, return to the handler, or continue forward.

That’s exactly the type of training that we described in the article. The goal of shock-free snake avoidance training is to train the dog to recognize the sight, sound, and smell of snakes, and to regard any sign of snakes as a cue to go to his owner immediately.

But as you said, and as noted by one of the trainers we quoted in the article, Jamie Robinson (who is based in Tucson, by the way), this training is not a quick fix; it requires commitment. If I lived in the Sonoran desert, I think this training would be my top priority!

Finally, there is no guarantee that a dog who is subjected to one of those shock-based snake avoidance training sessions will associate being shocked and made afraid with the sight, sound, and/or smell of the snake. He may, instead, associate the shock with a group of people standing around a parking lot, or the smell of the snake handler’s cologne (bummer if it’s the same one your husband wears), or the snake handler’s cowboy hat.

There just isn’t any way to instill fear in your dog in a precise or reliable way – and if it goes awry, and he develops “irrational” fears or phobias as a result of a crash course in shock-collar-based snake avoidance, you may never be able to help him completely shed those fears or phobic behaviors.

Trimming a Dog’s Toenails

showing dog nail clippers
Christine is on Step 6 as described; Tito is doing great.

Whenever you need to perform some routine grooming or husbandry task on your dog, try to both employ counter-conditioning and to give your dog a sense of control or choice in the matter. Even behaviors that don’t lend themselves well to choice, such as trimming hair and medicating ears, can incorporate an element of choice and priming by teaching your dog to “station.”

To “go to station” means to to go to a specific spot where nine times out of 10 (or better yet, 99 times out of 100), really good, fun stuff happens. If, every once in a great while, a slightly less fun (but not hugely aversive) procedure happens, it shouldn’t be enough to change his happy association with his station, especially if you do much of the classical conditioning away from the station, and invite him to station only when he has a positive association with all the parts of the procedure. Remember, do multiple repetitions at every step until the dog is happy!

dog nail clipping training
We moved through the steps too quickly; Tito is not ready to have his foot touched. He moaned (a Chihuahua prelude to a growl), his expression is guarded, and he pulled his foot away.

Classical Conditioning Approach to Nail Clipping:

1. Show your dog the nail clippers; feed him a treat.

2. Move clippers toward dog; treat.

3. Let him sniff the clippers; treat.

4. Move clippers as if you were snipping nails, several inches from dog; treat.

5. Move clippers toward the dog’s feet; treat.

6. Touch clippers to his chest or shoulder; treat.

7. With clippers close to his feet, move them as if snipping nails; treat.

8. Touch his foot with one hand while holding clippers near his body; treat.

9. Pick up and hold his foot for a brief moment while holding clippers near his foot; treat.

10. Pick up and hold his foot for a brief moment while snipping clippers near his foot; treat.

11. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart, as if you were trying to get a toenail into position to be cut, while holding clippers near his foot; treat.

12. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart, and touch the side of the clippers to a toenail or two; treat.

13. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart. Clip a tiny slice of one nail; treat.

14. Once your dog is happily on board for all of these steps, invite your dog to his station for the procedure. This introduces a small element of choice, but choice nevertheless.

dog nail clipping training
As we approached Step 12, Tito suddenly hopped onto Christine’s lap! She gave him some treats and clipped a couple nails. Huge success!

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

Lifting Your Dog

Christine has lure-shaped Tito to put his front paws on her leg, and is gradually adding the presence and pressure of her hands under his chest (a step in the direction of lifting him). He wears an ideal, happy, “Where’s my chicken?” expression in anticipation of his reward for his cooperation.

Does your dog ever growl or snap when you try to pick him up? Use this counter-conditioning technique to make him want to be lifted up!

1. Place both hands briefly, gently, on either side of your dog’s spine, and then feed him a treat.

2. Gradually move your hand down and under your dog’s ribcage on the far side, touching and feeding him a treat several times at each step.

3. Gradually move your other hand around the front of your dog’s chest to his opposite shoulder, touching and feeding him several times at each step.

4. Put light pressure on your dog with both hands, gradually hugging him toward you, and then feed him a treat.

5. Gradually increase pressure, feeding him treats several times at each step.

6. Hug your dog against your chest, lifting upward slightly; release and treat.

7. Gradually increase the amount of lift pressure until you are picking him up, giving him a treat several times at each step.

Dog’s choice approach, small dog

1. Shape or lure-shape your dog to go into a carrier on cue.

2. Lift the carrier to transport your dog to the desired location.

3. Treat while carrier is being carried, to offset any negative association with the movement of the carrier.

4. Treat when you place the carrier at the destination, again to maintain a positive association with the moving process.

Another dog’s choice, small to medium-sized dog

1. Shape or lure-shape your dog to jump into your lap when you are seated on the floor. Put the behavior on cue.

2. Make a circle of your arms in your lap so when he jumps into your lap he is jumping into your arms. Practice until the behavior is fluent (happens quickly and easily) and on cue.

3. Kneel, and cue him to jump into your arms. Practice until fluent.

4. Sit in a chair and cue him to jump into your arms. Practice until fluent.

5. Stand and cue him to jump into your arms. Be sure you catch him!

A third dog’s choice, any sized-dog

1. Using a portable ramp or steps made for dogs, shape or lure-shape your dog to walk up the ramp or the steps. Put it on cue.

2. Practice until the behavior is fluent.

3. Use the ramp or steps in place of picking him up when you need him on an elevated surface such as getting into the back of your SUV, or onto the exam table at your veterinarian’s office.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

How to Put a Harness on a Dog(Jacket, Thundershirt, etc.)

How to put a harness on a dog.

Some behaviors don’t lend themselves well to a total choice approach, but you may be able to use a Choice/Conditioning-hybrid procedure, still giving your dog some sense of control over his own world. Here’s one such procedure:

Classical Conditioning Approach

1. Hold up the harness in front of your dog with one hand; feed him a treat.

2. Let your dog sniff or nose-touch the harness; treat.

3. Let your dog sniff the harness and feed him treats through the opening that will go over his head.

4. Let him sniff the harness, and hold treats farther away so he has reach farther into the harness to eat them.

5. With his head through the harness, allow the harness to rest on his neck; treat.

6. Touch the straps that buckle; treat.

7. Move the straps that buckle; treat.

8. Touch the two sides of the buckle together; treat.

10. Snap the buckle closed; treat. (If your dog is sensitive to sounds, you might choose to counter-condition the sound of the buckle snapping closed first (or the Velcro sound of a Thundershirt), prior to and separate from the procedure of putting the harness or shirt on the dog).

Choice and Classical Conditioning

1. Shape your dog to walk into the harness suspended to give him access. (Click and treat as he offers to move incrementally farther into the suspended harness.)

2. When he is voluntarily moving into the harness, use classical conditioning Steps 6 through 10 above to complete the process.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

Cleaning Dog Feet: Training Your Dog to Accept Cleaning

dirty dog paws

For all classical conditioning procedures, do multiple repetitions of each step, feeding your dog a high-value treat (I like to use bits of fresh roasted or canned chicken) after each repetition. Only move to the next step when your dog becomes clearly happy at the previous step; this lets you know he’s made the association between the procedure and the high-value treat.

If he seems uncomfortable at any step, back up to the previous step until he’s happy again, and then figure out a smaller, intermediate step. In this exercise (wiping muddy paws), an intermediate step between Step 1 and Step 2 below might be to put pressure on the foot but not pick it up. Note that for proper classical conditioning, you present the stimulus first (for example, touching his foot), and then present the food. You want him to think that the touch makes the treat appear.

1. Touch your dog’s foot; then feed him a treat.

2. Hold his foot for a brief moment; treat.

3. Hold a towel in your hand (in front of him); treat.

4. Touch the towel to his foot; treat.

5. Holding the towel in one hand, lift and hold his foot for a moment; treat.

6. Holding the towel, lift his foot with your other hand, and touch his foot with the towel; treat.

7. Rub his foot gently with the towel; treat.

8. Rub his foot more vigorously with towel; treat.

The “Dog’s Choice” Approach:

When you train your dog to do any alternative method (in this case, for getting his paws clean), make the training process rewarding enough that your dog will happily choose to offer the behavior when you ask for it.

1. Start by training your dog to walk through a plastic tub with water in it. (Start with an empty tub and add water gradually if your dog is worried about the water). Use shaping, luring, or a combination of both.

2. Shape your dog to stand on an absorbent mat or towel to wick off the water. Alternatively, shape your dog to actually wipe his feet on the absorbent mat or towel to hasten the drying process.

3. Put the behavior (walk through tub and then stand or wipe paws on mat) on cue, so you can invite your dog to choose to perform it. If you have trained him well, he will happily choose to offer the behavior when you ask.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

How to Train Your Dog to Accept Husbandry Chores

woman holding nail clippers near dog
Does your dog respond with a definite, “NO WAY!” when you pull out the nail clippers?

[Updated Dec 21, 2022]

I put my hands on my dogs at least a few dozen times a day. It might be to attach or untangle a leash, look into ears, check teeth, brush or trim fur in various places, put on a Thundershirt, apply flea and tick preventative, or just to feel the soft silky warmth of dog under my hand. We humans are a tactile species, and with our handy opposable thumbs, we’re always doing something to manipulate our canine companions and their body parts.

Many dogs love being touched by us as much as we love touching them. When I sit on the sofa in the evenings typing on my laptop, I have dogs snuggled close to me on each side! But dogs aren’t born with a natural love of being touched by humans. They have to learn that human touch is good.

A well-socialized puppy learns early in life that human hands make good things happen. This is classical conditioning – giving your pup a good association with touch (and with all the other things he’s likely to encounter in his lifetime). A well-socialized pup is an optimist, believing that the world is a good place, and new things are safe unless and until proven otherwise. Getting your dog to accept new things throughout his life like Thundershirts, Calming Caps, nail clippers, stethoscopes, and otoscopes is much easier if he is well socialized. (We will publish an article about proper socializing in an upcoming issue.)

If your dog has no problem whatsoever with any kind of husbandry procedure you inflict on him – from trimming nails to getting dressed in a rainsuit, well, count your lucky stars, and show him your appreciation for his continued cooperation!

Dog Hates Being Touched?

But what if, for whatever reason, your dog hates being touched? Or maybe he likes being petted, but won’t let you pick him up, or won’t allow you to look for and carefully pull off a tick? Or maybe it’s just that he hates a certain procedure, whether it’s getting his ears cleaned or his teeth brushed.

“Counter-conditioning” is the most powerful tool to use to literally counter those negative responses. Counter-conditioning is the process of changing your dog’s existing association with something from one state to another – usually from negative to positive.

As an example, say someone once made the mistake of muzzling your dog and forcibly holding him down while clipping his nails; your dog probably now thinks nail trimming is a terrifying ordeal. You can use counter-conditioning to convince him, instead, that nail trimming is a wonderful thing, by pairing bits and pieces of the nail trimming process with high-value treats, and gradually putting the whole process together. You are working to convince your dog that nail trimming actually makes really good stuff happen.

But that’s not all you can do! You can use counter-conditioning to invite your dog to willingly and happily participate in the process of any husbandry procedure that is currently problematic for her. I’ll discuss the “how” of the process for several different procedures in just a moment.

Creating Opportunities for Making Choices for Your Dog

We humans tend to be happier with our lives when we can make our own choices. Our dogs do, too! The better we are at giving them opportunities to make choices for themselves and setting them up to want to make the right choices, the happier we all are. If you can convince your dog to willingly and happily choose to participate in a husbandry procedure, everyone is better off.

An alternative to the above-described counter-conditioning for nail trimming is to provide your dog with a canine-sized emery board, teach him to use it, and let him choose to file his own nails. (Note: Some owners report that their dogs love to file their own nails so much that they have to put the board away or their dogs file their nails down to the bloody quick.)

Whatever procedures you use, you can set your dog up for success by “priming” before you begin.

Priming is a behavioral effect in which exposure to a stimulus influences a response to a later stimulus. While well documented in human behavior, the concept of priming is less-known in the world of dog training and behavior. Simply put, if you “prime” your dog with tasty treats or a fun activity prior to engaging in the handling activity, your dog is in a happier frame of mind to begin the procedure, and thus better able to make choices and respond from a less stressful place.

Here are some handling challenges and how you can use choice and counter-conditioning protocols to make life less stressful for you and your dog:

Trimming Your Dog’s Toenails

Lifting Your Dog

Putting on a Harness (or Thundershirt, Jacket, etc)

Wiping Muddy Feet

This may seem tedious, but it’s important to understand that breaking each activity down into many small steps accomplishes two things. First, it helps your dog understand what it is that you want. Second, it makes the learning process much more engaging and enjoyable for him.

There are countless procedures that involve touching and handling our dogs, and each could be spelled out in a protocol that uses choice, classical conditioning, or a combination of the two, to make life easier for both you and your dog. But I bet by now you’ve got the idea.

Your dog’s challenge might be the application of topical flea and tick preventative, cleaning and/or putting medication in ears, electric clippers, flea combing, brushing teeth, pulling ticks, or something else. No matter which challenge it is, it’s always better to figure out how to help your dog become a willing partner in the activity than to restrain and force him into accepting the procedure. Unless it’s a medical emergency, there’s no need to use force!

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A Good Reason to Neuter

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Enjoying the mild spring weather, I was working with all the doors and windows in my house open. So when my dogs, who had free run of the house and backyard, started to bark at something, I looked out the window and saw a stray dog wandering around the front yard. He’s about 50 pounds, some sort of Kelpie/Cattle Dog-mix. I got up and went out the front door, and he ran off down the street. I almost started to look for a leash and treats, but I was busy, on deadline, so I went back to work. Ten minutes later, the barking started again, and there is the dog again.

I went outside again, this time with a leash and treats and Otto, my ambassador for loose dogs. Otto is big enough to handle himself with almost any dog, dog-savvy enough to not get into a fight with even a very rude dog, smart enough to run if the other dog is downright aggressive, and obedient enough that I can call him away from even a very intense greet-and-pee session. Nine times out of 10, I can open my side gate and the stray dog will follow Otto into my backyard. And then I can read the dog’s tag (if he has one) or call animal control.

The dog started to run again when I open my front door, but as soon as he saw Otto, he reversed direction and headed straight toward us, head and tail high. Oh good, there is a tag on his collar. I patted my leg and said, “Hey pup!” brightly, but he completely ignored me and fixated on Otto, leaning in to sniff Otto in a very forward fashion. Apparently Otto smelled GOOD, because two seconds later, the dog leaped onto Otto’s back, trying to hump him. Otto whirled around with a big, bear-like roaring growl and bark – “No WAY, buddy!” But the dog was like a laser-guided missile – completely ignoring me, and fixating on Otto’s nether end. He kept trying to jump up on Otto, who kept growl/snapping and whirling. Somehow, I managed to drop a slip-lead over his head and pulled him away from Otto. Whew!

Relieved to have the dog under control, Otto trotted a few yards away and peed on a tree. Seeing this, the dog immediately went into plow-horse mode, pulling with all his might to go pee on the tree, too.

This is not my favorite kind of dog: stray, intact, and so charged with testosterone and bad manners that he’s about to cause a fight, so eager is he to hump a neutered male dog 20 pounds bigger than he is.

I tied the dog to the tree, and put Otto in the house. Then I went back out and read the dog’s ID tag. Great! It had an address and a phone number; the address is just around the corner and up the block from me. I untied the leash and started walking that way, while using my cell phone to call the number on the tag.

The dog’s owner answered and seemed unsurprised to hear that the dog was out. He asked if I could put the dog back in his yard. Sure, no problem. I got to the house and approached the side gate, noting that there are “coyote rollers” on top of the six-foot fence – lengths of PVC pipe threaded onto a strand of wire fencing; the pipe rolls when a dog tries to jump/climb over the fence. It’s a smart solution that foils the escape plans of many dogs, but this dog obviously found some other way out. I had a feeling this wasn’t going to work, but I put the dog behind the fence and closed the gate.

By the time I reached my front porch, the dog was right behind me, eager for another encounter with Otto. Okay, plan B.

I opened my door, let Otto out, and when the dog started trying, again, to hump my increasingly annoyed dog, I got the lead slipped over the dog’s head again, and put Otto in the house. Thanks and sorry again, Otto!

I called the owner again. He told me that he called his young adult son and asked him to come home from work and and chain the dog up in the backyard. Ah! I said, I could have done that for you. He tells me, no problem, the son is on his way, should be home any minute.

I took the dog back to his house, and tied the leash to a post on the front porch. Another dog comes running to the side gate, a young Australian Cattle Dog-mix, female, maybe five or six months old. Cute! I waited for a few minutes, to see if the dog can handle being tied up. He laiddown on the shady porch, so I felt fine about walking away.

Five minutes later, the dog is on my porch again. Gah! He has his collar on still, and there is no stub of leash, so he didn’t slip the collar or chew his way free. I let Otto out of my house – bait dog! – and walk back toward the dog’s house, him trying to hump Otto the whole way. I am really not liking this dog!

Halfway there, I saw a young man who was obviously looking for the dog. He yelled the dog’s name, to no effect. “It’s okay,” I called to him, “we’re on the way!”

When we reached his front yard, the young man said the obvious: “I unsnapped the leash and he just took off!” He started grabbing at the dog, trying to get ahold of the dog’s collar and yelling the dog’s name. The dog ignored him like he ignored me; all he can think about is humping Otto. I managed to lasso the dog again. “Your dad told me you were going to chain him up? Where is the chain? I can take him there.”

The young man opened the gate and we all went into the very large backyard. There is a small chain-link pen back there, just four feet high, and the puppy was now in there. The young man led the way to a spot where a long cable is fastened to a tree. I clipped it onto the dog’s collar and then Otto and I backed out of the dog’s range. The guy was thanking me, rushing around; he had to get back to work.

I looked around. Lots of stuff for the cable to get wrapped around. Lots of holes where the dog has dug. No water. I said, “Is there a bucket or something for water?” The guy looked around and grabbed a five-gallon bucket, and started to run some water into it. He was grumbling about the dog, and how he’s annoyed because the dog is going to teach his dog, the puppy, some bad habits. I said, “Well, first thing, get the darn dog neutered! He will be less likely to be so obsessed with escaping – and he won’t get your little female pregnant!”

The guys says, “Well, we were going to breed them!”

I was incredulous, but kept my tone teasing and playful. “Why the heck would you do that? Neither one is a purebred, and he’s an a**hole!”

He responded with something about them both being working stock dogs. Uh huh. Here in town. Okay, good luck, and have a nice day.

FIRST THING this morning, the dog was on my front porch, whining for Otto. I got a leash on him and walked him back to his house, and knocked on the door. No one home. Little dogs barking inside. Then I took him back to my house, tied him to the tree out front again, and called animal control. An officer came right over to pick up the dog.

I feel a little bad for not calling the owner again; his number is still in my cell phone. But maybe a ticket or two will inspire him to take more serious measures to contain the dog. And neuter him!

 

 

 

 

 

Are Snakes Becoming More Toxic?

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The May 2015 issue of Whole Dog Journal contains two in-depth articles about the venomous snakes in North America that are potentially dangerous or deadly to dogs. The main article discusses the rattlesnake vaccine and antivenom treatments, as well as practical tips for avoiding snakes and emergency first-aid for snake bites. The second article discusses snake-avoidance training methods that do not involve shock collars. Subscribers to the WDJ can check out these articles and more at wholedogjournal.com — and in the hard copy of the magazine, in their mailboxes now.

© Amwu

However, we ran out of room in the issue to discuss another important : Discussion of the evidence that venomous snakes may be developing increased toxicity.

In 2008, toxicologists at the Banner Poison Control Center in Phoenix, Arizona, one of the nation’s busiest poison centers treating rattlesnake bites, warned emergency physicians of a troubling trend.

“Over the last five or six years, we have noticed an increased incidence of critically ill rattlesnake bite patients being admitted to our service,” wrote Dr. Steven Curry, the center’s Director of Medical Toxicology. “The collective clinical findings in these patients mimic aspects of anaphylaxis and commonly include one or more of the following: rapid collapse within a few minutes of being bitten; hypotension and shock, commonly requiring epinephrine; rapid, profound third-spacing of fluids with hypovolemia and hemoconcentration, sometimes with only minimal or absent swelling; swelling or angioedema of the lips, tongue and throat, sometimes requiring emergency airway management; and profound weakness and/or diarrhea.”

Toxicologists could not say why so many bite victims experienced severe and life-threatening symptoms. In the few cases where physicians with Banner Poison Control Center were able to examine the snake responsible, it was a Mojave rattlesnake. However, in most cases, the rattlesnake was not identified.

“We never recommend that any attempt be made to capture or kill the offending snake because of the danger involved,” Dr. Curry said. “Therefore, we don’t know that Mojave rattlesnakes alone are responsible for an increasing frequency of severely envenomated patients.

“Physician toxicologists with Banner Poison Control Center have admitted about 50 to 75 rattlesnake bite patients annually for nearly 30 years,” Dr. Curry added. “Prior to 2002, we saw patients with the above findings about once every two or three years. Now we see several of these patients each year, and have recently become aware of similar patients in nearby states.”

Dr. Curry and his colleagues have communicated with poison center toxicologists in Tucson, Arizona, Southern California, and Colorado, where similar trends have been observed.

In June 2012, the San Diego Union-Tribune reported that in and around San Diego, California, rattlesnake bites were increasing in frequency and becoming more dangerous. The article quoted Dr. Richard Clark, director of the Division of Medical Toxicology at the University of California San Diego Health System and medical director for the San Diego office of the California Poison Control System. “While San Diego County is seeing a rise in snake bite cases each year,” he explained, “the more alarming factor is the toxicity of the bite. The symptoms and wounds we’re seeing are worse than in the past. Some speculate that with the modern world encroaching on nature, it could be survival of the fittest. Perhaps only the strongest, most venomous snakes survive.”

All the more reason to exercise caution in any area known for its rattlesnakes.

Crates or Seat Belts, People!

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Sorry if this is the fifth time in the past year that we’ve run a reminder in either the magazine, the blog, or the Facebook page, but here goes:

To give your dog the best chance of survival in a car accident, you really have to have him or her in a crate that is solidly fastened into the car, or seat-belted in a proper harness, one that has been independently crash-tested and approved by the Center for Pet Safety (CPS). For more reasons why you should use only a product that has been evaluated by this group, see our January 2015 article, “Restraining Order: Our Car Safety Harness Recommendation.” (Current subscribers can read all past issues online at no extra charge; the link is here: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/collars-harnesses-leashes-muzzles/whole-dog-journals-car-safety-harness-recommendation/
).

I was at my local shelter on Saturday, helping someone adopt a dog, one I’d fostered for less than a day. A month or so ago I’d seen a photo of “Jacks” on the shelter website, and thought, “Cute! He looks like (my dog) Otto’s Mini-me!” Then I saw him in person at the shelter last week, when I walked the shelter aisles while waiting to speak to a friend who works there. Again, I thought he was such a cutie, and wondered why it was taking him so long to get snapped up. So when I had some time the other day, I went to the shelter, and signed him out as a foster dog. I took him for a walk with a friend and our combined four other dogs, and he was excellent, so well-behaved and well-socialized. I gave him a bath, took a few pictures, put them on my Facebook page, and by the next morning, heard from someone who wanted to meet him. Yay! We met, and before it was noon, we were at the shelter and the lovely young woman was adopting him. Yay!

But while I was in the lobby of the shelter, waiting for the very busy staff to go over the adoption papers with Jacks’ new owner, I started talking to another lady who was waiting for help from the shelter staff. She was from Oregon, and the day before, she told me, she was driving through the area on her way to a wedding, when she was in a traffic accident on the highway. Her car rolled over and was totaled. In the crash, she told me, she hit her head hard enough that the ambulance crew insisted that she be taken by ambulance to a local hospital. Her car was towed, and her dog, who was in a crate fastened in the back of the car, was taken to the shelter by California Highway Patrol officers. Thank goodness! The dog was only bruised, but otherwise unharmed – and so was she, as it turns out. She had been released by the hospital that morning, and one of her adult sons had picked her up from the hospital and had driven her to the shelter to get her dog. Ack! I started crying in the shelter lobby, completely caught up in her tale, and completely sympathizing with her anxiety as she waited for the staff to go get her dog out of the kennels in the back and return him to her!

As stressed as she was all night and all that morning, waiting to hear how her dog was, and WHERE he was, and waiting to get him returned to her, she was lucky; if her dog had been loose in the car, he may well have been smashed up or sustained a broken neck in the car during the crash, thrown from the car in the crash, or jumped out of one of the car’s broken windows after the crash. In the minutes immediately after the accident, had he been loose, he may have run from the car in a panic, and gotten lost or, worse, hit by another car on the highway. Thank goodness he was in a crate that was properly fastened into the car!!

If you haven’t taken steps to protect your dog in your car, please do it now! Any time your dog goes on the road with you, he should be wearing ID with current contact information, and should be either seat-belted into the car (with a proper harness) or in a crate that is properly fastened.

 

 

 

 

 

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