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2017 Best Dog Cone Alternatives

The term “recovery collar” is becoming the standard term to refer to what has been called an Elizabethan collar, a pet cone, or more humorously, a lampshade, a pet radar dish, and, of course, the misnomer “cone of shame.” There is no shame in needing help! The term Elizabethan collar is still heard frequently, but because it tends to be shortened to e-collar and because that’s also a shortened version of electronic collar, the phrase is falling out of use for this application.

It is normal for dogs to lick a wound, incision, bug bite, or irritated skin as part of normal grooming; it’s when that licking becomes excessive that a barrier device becomes necessary in order to prevent further injury.

Most dogs adjust to wearing a recovery collar fairly easily, but it can be an additional trauma for other dogs. Some will not eat or drink while wearing one and thus the collar must be temporarily removed at these times. Particularly shy or fearful dogs often have more difficulty navigating and become more concerned with the world when they have to wear a recovery collar. Some dogs become hypersensitive when their peripheral vision is hindered. And all dogs who are in discomfort and stressed will be more likely to act out aggressively in situations that would not normally bother them – and the stress can hinder healing, too!

dog wearing cone

Fortunately, there are many dog cone alternatives to protect your dog’s stitches, hot spot, wound, or what-have-you. Some dog cone alternatives are designed to prevent the distress that some dogs experience when wearing a recovery collar; others are designed to work better with dogs of certain proportions (i.e., dogs with “no” necks, dogs with very long bodies or long legs, very small dogs, etc.).

Traits of Good Dog Cone Alternatives

If your dog is bothered by the impairment of his vision, look for products that allow him to look around, or are made of translucent material.

The sound of Velcro® or generic hook-and-loop closures can be scary to some dogs, so if your dog is one of these (or is phobic about odd noises), consider products that fasten with some other mechanism. These fasteners might also be problematic for dogs with long coats. A final consideration about hook-and-loop: the lifespan of the collar may also be reduced as the material degrades.

Properly fitting collars should be short enough to allow eating and drinking, yet prevent the wearer from reaching the area(s) of concern with his tongue or teeth. It should fit securely – you should be able to fit two fingers comfortably between the collar and neck – and yet not restrict breathing or swallowing. Unless provided and fitted by your veterinarian, you’ll need to know the circumference of your dog’s neck. An easy way to measure this is to remove your dog’s collar and measure the collar length. You may also need to know the length of your dog’s muzzle. Follow the manufacturer’s guide for measurements.

How to Use the Recovery Collar

It’s a great idea to shop for a recovery collar before your dog’s surgery, when he’s still feeling well. (If your dog is, fortunately, not scheduled for surgery, consider buying one in advance of any injury that might befall your dog!)

If possible, have your dog “try on” several different products, wearing them around the store for as much time as you can afford, to see how he deals with each product’s challenges. (And if your dog may have to wear one of these products for an extended period of time, consider buying a couple or several, so you can find the one that works best for him.)

Once you’ve settled on a product, and it’s time for the rubber to meet the road – or rather, for the dog to meet the collar – allow him to become familiar with the product before putting it on him; let him see and smell it first. Arm yourself with extra-delicious treats, and take your time when putting it on, rewarding him richly for his cooperation. Continue to offer him praise and reinforcement (treats) as he learns how to navigate wearing the new accessory. Carefully monitor your dog on his first days wearing a recovery collar, to see whether he can reach his wound around the collar – or reach the collar itself and destroy it!

Assist and guide your dog through doorways and up and down stairwells, as stairs can be a tripping hazard if they come into contact with the collar. Owners might consider clearing pathways and areas of items that can be knocked over by an inadvertent swipe of the recovery collar. Remember to give your dog breaks from wearing the collar when you’re home and can monitor him closely, so he doesn’t take the first opportunity to lick his wound.

Collars can get gross. Do take them off and wash them occasionally. Check daily around your dog’s head and neck for any area of irritation. Be aware that this accessory can get caught on objects, and paws can get caught in the collars themselves. When used for long periods, be mindful of your dog’s ears; some of these collars can trap moisture and heat, resulting in yeast growth or other ear issues.

The Best Kinds of Dog Cone Alternatives

There is no single style of recovery collar that fits all dogs and protects all wounds. Every dog is different in shape, flexibility, and emotional response to a recovery collar. The products reviewed here are sturdy, made of tough, flexible materials, reusable, and easily cleaned; all of them will store flat and some you can trim to size. Some will work better than others for certain dogs.

We’ve provided manufacturer information for the collars we reviewed, but bought them through Amazon. While we love the fast delivery (and often, the prices) from online sources, if the product doesn’t fit well, or fails to prevent your dog from reaching his wound, it might be more of a hassle to return it to an online seller than to take it back to a local pet supply store or veterinary hospital. (And, of course, you can bring your dog to a store and try them on there.)

Here is a comparison chart that highlights the various traits of recovery collars and cones. Scroll further to get written reviews of each collar tested.

RECOVERY COLLARS AND BEST ALTERNATIVES
4 paws = great 3 paws = good 2 paws = adequate 1 paw = inadequate
PRODUCT PRICE SIZES FASTENER VISION HEARING COMFORT EASE OF MOVEMENT
STANDARD CONES (for comarison, not reviewed): stiff, opaque, plastic cone from your veterinarian varies widely many usually tied to your dog’s collar with gauze
dog wearing cone

 

Recovery Collar Reviews

Note: The products we reviewed are described in alphabetical order.

BiteNot

bitenot recovery collar
BiteNot

The BiteNot is designed like a cervical collar used by humans, and limits how far the dog can bend his neck, thus limiting the movement and reach of the dog’s head. It’s constructed with flexible plastic and foam, and wraps around your dog’s neck. It’s secured by a hook-and-loop (Velcro-like) closure and a harness strap that threads underneath the dog’s front legs and buckles at the back of the neck. The manufacturer states that it protects the back, rump, base of tail, flanks, chest, abdomen, and genitals. It is not designed to protect the ears or face, and the dog can reach the lower portion of his legs.

The BiteNot doesn’t interfere with the dog’s peripheral vision or ability to eat and drink. The length of collar must fit from behind the dog’s ears to the top of his shoulder, so sizing is key. This is the only collar of those reviewed here that caused a noticeable change in my dog when I tried it on him; he immediately became subdued. Which, if you need your dog to recover from something, might not be a bad thing – or a very bad thing, for a dog who got freaked out by the restriction of his neck movement.

PROS: Easy to put on. Does not inhibit vision. Interior nicely padded. Difficult for dog to remove. Machine washable.

CONS: Must be sized properly or it can hurt shoulders or ears. Heat and moisture can build up beneath collar. Has some potential for rubbing. Edges are hard; could be padded more.

Comfy Cone

comfy cone
Comfy Cone

The Comfy Cone is a soft cone-shaped collar constructed of water-resistant nylon fabric, laminated to ½-inch foam, producing a cone that is soft and yielding, yet sturdy and protective.

It comes with removable stays that provide extra stability and stiffness for dogs/situations that call for this. The vertical Velcro-type strips allow for varying adjustments in size and fit; however when collar is fitted for maximum circumference the extra hook-and-loop strips are exposed and only one extra strip cover is provided. When the stays are removed, the edge of collar can be folded back to facilitate eating and drinking; but if you can fold the collar back, so can your dog.

The collar direction can be reversed for shoulder, chest, or upper back issues, as well as to cover IV lines and feeding tubes. When worn this way (see photo on cover), supervision is needed to ensure that your dog’s paws don’t get caught in the inverted cone.

PROS: Both a soft collar and hard collar. Water-resistant but machine washable. Has reflective binding for night safety. Conforms to different shapes. Heavy-duty hook-and-loop fastener secures collar well. Seems generally comfortable.

CONS: Solid fabric blocks peripheral vision. Interior is black; becomes hot and humid. Because edges can bend, some dogs may chew on it. Heavy duty Velcro-type fastener is noisy.

ElizaSoft Recovery Collar &
Trimline Recovery Collar

ElizaSoft & Trimline Recovery Collars
ElizaSoft Recovery Collar

These soft-sided collars provide protection and freedom of movement for the head, neck, and body. Some veterinarians like this design because dogs tend to like it so owners like it, resulting in good compliance. Durably constructed, it withstands chewing and clawing, and is water repellent and machine washable. Sizing is flexible as the drawstring tie adjusts to different neck sizes. These work especially well for dogs in close confinement and for long recoveries.

PROS: Lightweight. Easy to put on. Built-in tie fastener is highly adjustable. Springs back to its original shape. Allows dog to sleep and lounge in comfort. Can be worn reversed to protect shoulder/back areas.

CONS: Because it is very flexible, dog can easily cause it to crumple and fold. Limits vision, as it is solid fabric.

FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone

FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone
FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone

The FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone is a “softer” version of the standard plastic collar. It’s a slightly truncated cone with a wide band of breathable mesh fabric at its base. The “cone” is made of clear plastic, affording good visibility for the dog; this material is firm without being rigid, and the plastic edges are covered with fabric. This collar should provide good protection of most body parts if fitted correctly. The snap and buckle closures are secure and easily accessible.

One caution: This product has a built-in stainless steel D-ring, intended as an attachment for a leash. Leading a dog by the “cone” could seriously injure him; disregard this ring!

PROS: Snap closures (no Velcro). Allows dog to relax and sleep comfortably in any position. Easy to clean.

CONS: Limited size range; available only for small to medium dogs. Some dogs may reach tail and front paws. Might aggravate noise phobia.

KONG Cloud Collar

dog cone alternatives
KONG Cloud Collar

The KONG Cloud Collar (a.k.a. the airplane neck pillow that I am taking with me the next time I fly) is a well-designed and comfortable recovery collar. It allows dogs to eat, drink, and sleep and does not interfere with peripheral vision.

It is easy to put on – simply thread your dog’s regular collar through the interior of the pillow and inflate via the pinch and blow air valve, inflating to full but not hard. Its security is dependent on the fit of your dog’s regular collar; if the collar can slip or be pulled over his head, he will be able to get the Cloud Collar off, too. My dog Tico had this collar off in seconds off by putting his paws behind the donut and pulling his head right out.

The Cloud Collar is not good for any issue around the face or ears and may not prevent access to some areas on the body, such as the tail. It is a good option for brachycephalic dogs because it’s difficult for them to get off. Some users report that the hook-and-loop closure can rub.

PROS: Machine washable, scratch-, tear-, and rip-resistant fabric. Does not mark or scratch furniture. Great for playing and easy for dog to adjust to. Seems to be more comfortable than other styles. Dog can eat, drink, and sleep easily.

CONS: Has potential for deflating (popping/leaking air) and for irritation due to heat. Prevents dog from being able to lie flat.

NACOCO

dog cone alternatives
NACOCO

Perhaps the goofiest-looking recovery collar we tried, the NACOCO is made of soft, hollow, expanded polyethylene foam, covered in a water-resistant nylon fabric. Very soft and lightweight, it’s potentially useful for shoulder and chest issues. It doesn’t impede the ability to eat, drink, see, or hear. Because it is so large, I thought dogs wouldn’t like wearing it; surprisingly, none of the dogs I tested it on had any difficulty adjusting to it.

PROS: Does not hurt when it collides with humans. Lightweight. Flexible enough to bend when going through a narrow doorways and to allow dogs to lay down comfortably.

CONS: Can be an impediment to movement of the front legs; does not work well for short-legged dogs as it hits the ground. Flexibility also poses potential for chewing or for dog to reach his wound around collar. The fixed snap closure does not allow for any adjusting of size.

Novaguard

Novaguard
Novaguard

The Novaguard is much narrower than standard plastic cones, giving the dog greater freedom of movement. It resembles a transparent knight’s helmet – but one that’s ergonomically designed to fit a dog’s head.

The plastic is hard and the edges are not padded, but the manufacturer addresses this with the explanation that this keeps the product affordable; it suggests that customers can create custom cushioning or trim the edges if necessary with medical tape.

The pre-scored grooves at the outer rim allow for individual sizing for muzzle length. This is a good option for dogs with long, lean necks or long muzzles. The company also makes The Optivizor, for eye and face protection.

This is one of those products that will either fit your dog perfectly or not at all, depending on his shape. Even though we had this fitted snugly on one of the models (and it has the potential to be set too tight) the construction is such that it slipped forward and then off the model’s head without undoing the hook-and-loop neck strap.

PROS: Slim design, fits closer to head and thus protects eyes and muzzle. The dog’s ears are outside of collar, eliminating sound amplification and buildup of moisture or heat around ears. Should protect most areas of trauma except ears.

CONS: Not many adjustment points. Hard plastic could be uncomfortable; potential for rubbing. Assembly required.

ZenCone Soft Recovery Collar

dog cone alternatives
ZenCone Soft Recovery Collar

A hybrid design, ZenCone is made of alternating bands of soft canvas and plastic windows, which offer peripherl vision. It attaches to the dog’s regular collar with elastic loops, and the cone shape and size easily adjusts with strips of hook-and-loop material.

PROS: Flexible and comfortable for sleeping. Human- and house-friendly. Easy to put on and take off. Fabric reduces the distortion and amplification of noise caused by some cone designs.

CONS: When sized for smaller dogs, exposed strips of unused hook-and-loop fasteners can collect lint and stick to carpet and fabrics. May not be deep enough and too flexible to prevent long-nosed or determined dogs from reaching wounds.

Custom Collars

Sometimes, none of the purpose-made recovery collars will work. My friend Joanne made her own recovery collar for her dog out of foam and heavy-duty fabric; I think she should start production and sales! At times, temporary measures are needed. With a little creativity, you can quickly create a makeshift collar with a few household items. People have been known to use cardboard, actual lampshades, wastebaskets, and plastic flowerpots. Whatever works!

Erin Einbender, a volunteer at Chicago-area rescue group One Tail at a Time and an artist studying at the School of Art Institute in Chicago, combined her passion for dogs and photography and created the Cones of Fame project. Think “art meets dogs meets recovery collars.”

Erin not only creates art using recovery collars as a canvas, but also helps find homes for the canine models. While we can’t recommend using these types of collars for
actual recovery, we do support the endeavor. Check out Cones of Fame (and adoptable dogs!) online.

Barbara Dobbins, a former dog trainer, writes about dogs and studies canine ethology. She lives in the San Francisco Bay area with her mixed-breed adolescent dog, Tico.

Look Under the Lips

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It’s sometimes shocking to me that so many of us live with dogs and never think of looking at their teeth. Like us, dogs can develop problems with their teeth that can affect their overall health. But in comparison to us, their lives are much shorter – and they develop dental problems much more quickly. In fact, if these problems are neglected, they can actually shorten your dog’s life.

Cavities are the biggest problem for human teeth, but the accumulation of plaque and the development of tartar (also called dental calculus) is the most serious dental problem for dogs. Tartar builds up on the teeth, forming a concrete-like crust on the teeth at the gum line. It also forms under the gums, which helps bacteria get under the gums and proliferate. The resulting infection causes the gums to appear red, swollen, and irritated. This condition, also known as gingivitis, can lead to deeper infections. Infection can also damage the ligaments and bone that anchor the teeth, making them susceptible to loss. Because of the rich blood supply to the mouth, the infection can also spread systemically, making your dog quite ill and/or affecting his heart, kidneys, and liver.  This chronic condition can prematurely age your dog.

The odd thing is, some dogs can go their entire lives and never need one bit of dental care in order to maintain white, strong, healthy teeth. But others need our intervention and help to keep their teeth in a state of health. Small dogs tend to have more problems with the formation of dental calculus than large dogs; it’s not uncommon for small dogs as young as five or six years old to have very dangerously tartar-encrusted teeth and infected gums.

Dogs may also have other dental problems that can’t be seen while the dog is awake, no matter how cooperative. Cracked or broken teeth can cause chronic pain – and the dog won’t necessarily show signs of this, such as a reluctance to eat – but he may be cranky and lose enthusiasm for play or work.

If your dog has discolored teeth, and tartar has begun to form along his gum line, he’ll need a professional cleaning at your veterinarian’s clinic to completely remove the tartar from both the surfaces you can see AND the under-gum surfaces you can’t. The veterinarian might also prescribe and supply you with antibiotics to give your pet after the procedure, to help your pet fight the bacteria that is released into his bloodstream by the cleaning process. The cleaning is done under general anesthesia; there is no other way to do a thorough job.

Once your pet’s teeth are clean, you can maintain that state with regular brushing. Use toothpaste made for pets; human toothpaste containing fluoride is toxic to dogs. Use a very soft toothbrush; most pet supply stores sell long-handled brushes with a head small enough to fit into the mouths of small animals. Start out slowly, keeping the process rewarding for your pet; give him ample treats for his cooperation. Ask your veterinarian to show you how.

 

Download the Full July 2017 Issue PDF

There is no single style of recovery collar that fits all dogs and protects all wounds. Every dog is different in shape, flexibility, and emotional response to a recovery collar. The products reviewed here are sturdy, made of tough, flexible materials, reusable, and easily cleaned; all of them will store flat and some you can trim to size. Some will work better than others for certain dogs.
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Early Dog Memories

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At the time of this visit, I hadn’t yet started editing WDJ; I was a horse magazine editor – my entire professional career had been about horses (and journalism) and my hobbies were very horse-based. So I rolled my eyes at my long-estranged friend. “I have a dog, but I mean, I have a lot more to do with horses now…”

Despite my kneejerk denial, he was right. I have been hanging out with dogs for as long as I can remember. Though neither of my parents grew up with dogs, they both loved dogs and were suckers when their four children all turned out to be dog lovers, too, and wanted their very own dogs. Because my three siblings are five, six, and seven years older than me, by the time I came along, we already had a house full of dogs. And, again because my siblings are older, by the time I wanted someone to play with, they didn’t really want to play with me – it makes sense; what 10, 11, and 12 year old wants to play with a five year old? – so I entertained myself by playing with the dogs!

But I don’t have a specific “first” memory of a dog. In my mind, they were just always around, and I felt about them like I felt about my own siblings. I loved them and enjoyed their company. When I was four, my parents moved from a suburb to a home in the country, and there were no kids my age close by. I spent most of my non-school hours with the dogs: building forts in the garden, exploring foot paths along the creek that ran along one side of our property, wading in the creek in the summer, or just lounging around surrounded by dogs. They seemed happy to have a little human companion to explore with, too.

As much as my parents loved dogs, they never seemed to research anything about them. We fed the dogs cheap food from the (livestock) feed store, a pelleted food that looked just like the chicken feed we also bought there. I don’t remember any of the dogs wearing collars. We had an outdoor dog pen with a dog house in it, but I don’t remember the dogs being locked in it very often; like all the pet dogs in our rural area, they ran free – and like all the pet dogs in our area, were frequently killed by cars on the main two-lane road that ran through our valley. (Working ranch dogs were always penned or chained somewhere on their owner’ property. They were too valuable to run free.)

And none of the dogs were altered! Welcome to rural California, circa 1970! One summer (joyous for me) we had three litters of (unplanned, uncontrolled) mixed-breed puppies born to our dogs at about the same time. It wasn’t my fault, I was just a little kid, but maybe all my shelter volunteerism comes from some residual guilt about all those canine lives so randomly created and given away.

One of those mother dogs was a Lab-mix. Perhaps crowded by the other two dog moms, she moved her puppies one night to a location underneath a huge bank of blackberry vines near the creek. She still showed up at our back door for meals, but as soon as she ate, she’d make a beeline for the blackberries and would slither along the ground back into the tangle. When the puppies were about five weeks old, my mom ordered my 12-year-old brother (and he recruited some of his friends) to crawl on their bellies into the vines and retrieve the puppies, before they grew up feral. I’ll never forget the excitement of seeing them pass one puppy after another out of the vines; it was like seeing them born all over again, but instead of slimy and blind, they were fully formed, interactive little dogs!

Later, when I was in high school, and my siblings were all out of the house, I started researching proper dog care. I arranged for all the family dogs – including those left behind by my siblings, whether due to college housing or bad boyfriends or whatever – to be altered. I asked my parents to buy kennels and installed them in our yard, went to the landscaping supply store and bought pea gravel to put in the runs, and made sure that the dogs were locked up or in the house at night; ending the long run of “HBC” (hit by car) incidents in our family. I took the dogs to the vet for their vaccinations and kept collars with ID on them. And, yes, when I went places, as my family friend recalled, I almost always took my own dogs with me! I didn’t trust my parents to be as responsible with my dogs as they had always been with the family dogs!

The family friend who had last seen me when I was about 18 has since had the grace not to rub my nose in the fact that now my life is all about dogs, all the time. I own, recreate with, foster, dog-sit, and transport dogs, and of course, my job is all about dogs. My family today makes fun of the fact that even when we take a dog-free vacation, if I see a dog and have a camera in my hand, I abandon my family and run to take pictures, so I have files and files of photos of dogs in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Jersey, New York, Hawaii, Germany, Italy, Greece, Canada – anywhere my son or stepkids live or have lived or where we went on vacation together. In Pompeii, others marveled at the ruins; I was fascinated with the packs of feral dogs that expertly worked the tourists, attaching themselves to each new group descending from the tour buses, begging for treats. And I have frequent opportunities to use these random photos for WDJ, so my “ditch the family for dog photos” habit is reinforced.

Anyway, what about you? Did you grow up with dogs or find them later? What are your earliest dog memories?

Thinking about the “Sit! Sit! SIT!” Syndrome

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There is a behavior that the vast majority of humans reliably demonstrate when meeting an unfamiliar dog or puppy: they will tell the dog to “Sit! Sit! SIT!” Even without any evidence whatsoever that the dog understands the word, people will repeat it again and again, and say it louder and more emphatically, seemingly certain that the dog was too distracted or just didn’t hear them. It never seems to cross their minds that the dog doesn’t fully understand what the word means.

It is a testament to our love for and comfort with dogs, I guess, that we so often assume they understand our language. But why do we so often expect a strange dog – or as an even better example, a young, untrained puppy – to understand “Sit!” I find it so aggravating!

Why do I even care? For two reasons:

1. People often get physically forceful when a dog doesn’t understand and comply with the “command.” They’ll snap their fingers to get the dog’s attention, and say it more firmly. “SIT.” And then they’ll often reach for the dog’s rear end and start pushing.

I can’t count the times that I’ve been with people in the “get acquainted” room, as a volunteer with my local shelter, introducing a dog or puppy to prospective adopters, when someone starts with the “Sit! Sit! SIT!” thing – almost always immediately followed by someone attempting to push the dog or puppy’s butt down onto the floor.

This is just not appropriate – and it’s a great way to hurt an older, arthritic dog, or frighten a scared dog into feeling like he has to defend himself with a growl or bite. It also abruptly changes the relationship between the person and the dog; with that single gesture, the person has aggressively made it clear that he or she is physically more powerful than the dog and completely uninhibited about using that physical force. Some dogs are completely okay with this; some might accept it from someone they know and trust; and some have no foundation of kindness from humans to understand and accept this calmly and without fear.

Whenever I see someone push a puppy’s or dog’s butt to the floor, I ask her how she would feel if I put my hands on her shoulders and firmly pressed her down into a chair. Would it matter if I were smiling and cooing at her when I did it?

2. Here’s the second reason I hate it when people repeat a word they mean to be a cue to an animal who clearly doesn’t know it, or can’t demonstrate at that moment that they understand – and this is a little out there, but follow me for a moment… It demonstrates an unexamined expectation that the dog should know this cue AND comply, no matter who uses the cue or when. If you think about it, it’s a completely racist – species-ist  – expectation. We humans EXPECT dogs – strange dogs, baby dogs, ALL dogs – to do this one thing when we say they should. But why? We wouldn’t dream of saying the same thing to a CAT we just met! And pushing its butt down when it didn’t sit! We don’t do this to chickens, or goats, or guinea pigs, or parrots.

Think about it: We don’t do this to ANY OTHER ANIMAL! Just dogs are singled out for this expectation – and many, many others. I think most people would immediately understand that they need to manage, train, and condition ANY other species of animal to go along with the things we routinely just expect dogs to do, including cooperate with baths, intimate grooming and touching, riding in cars, getting along with other dogs, and so on.

Anyway, I should also add that I DO often say “Sit!” to dogs I don’t know – but I do it for the same reason that I would say “Hello!” to a strange person: to get information, NOT to “order” him to do something.

I can usually tell from a person’s response to “Hello!” whether we speak the same language (or not), or whether the person is even willing to have any sort of communicative exchange with me. Similarly, I can usually tell from a dog’s response whether he has any interest in “speaking”‘ with me, and if so, whether we might have any language in common. A dog who looks like he might know what “Sit!” means and is willing to comply is the equivalent of a person who responds to “Hello!” with “Hi, how are you?” To me, it means that we can start to have a conversation in the same language.

And if a dog responds to “Sit!” as if he has never heard the word before, then I know I have to behave in the same way I would with a person who speaks NO English, with a big smile and lots of gestures and making no assumptions whatsoever about what the person was getting out of the conversation. And a lot of letting him know how much I appreciate him for “speaking” with me.

Reduce Reactivity

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Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

It’s been widely observed that our society has gotten increasingly polarized over the past few years, with massive breakdowns in civil discourse between not just acquaintances, but also good friends, work associates, and even family members. Our most recent presidential election seemed to boost the level of tension and intolerance into the red zone. Many of my friends seem to be on permanent boil; others seem to have just checked out, distancing themselves from all forms of socializing.

Is it any wonder that this could also describe many of the dogs I hear about today? Owners today have more information about dog behavior and training, and more resources and innovative, high-tech equipment available for helping monitor, train, and entertain their dogs, and yet I hear about even more behavior problems than ever – especially dog-dog aggression.

After hearing one story about a dog killing one of the other dogs in its home, Training Editor Pat Miller and I have been discussing writing an article about the phenomenon of intra-pack aggression – and since we started discussing the idea a few months ago, we’ve heard of six additional cases.

I don’t claim to have all the answers, but, in my opinion, becoming aware that we have a problem is how we start fixing it. Much of our society is anxious and mad right now – and so are our dogs. For their sake, and ours, and that of our country, I think we all need to take a breath and practice calming ourselves and each other. We can use the techniques trainer Stephanie Colman describes in her article, “How to Help a Leash-Reactive Dog,” in this issue! Changing our own emotional responses to things that reflexively make us angry and anxious can’t help but improve our moods – and just may improve our dogs’ moods, too.

My own calming haven, a local open space preserve, reopens to off-leash dogs at the end of this month. I’m so looking forward to getting back out there with my dogs, so we can fill our lungs to bursting with fresh air, and work our muscles into that good kind of tiredness with swimming and running and playing. If you have any such place – or some other sort of all-consuming activity that you can enjoy with your dogs – please take the time to enjoy that, and recharge your and your dog’s mental and emotional batteries, soon! (For more ideas on summer fun with your dog, see trainer Helene Goldberger’s article, “Summer Activities for Your Dog and You.”)

I sincerely believe if we all do our part to center and calm ourselves (and our dogs, too, of course), we can reduce the aggression in our society, human and canine. And trying certainly can’t hurt anything. Join me?

What is Hypoallergenic Dog Shampoo?

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[Updated January 30, 2019]

With literally hundreds of dog shampoos on the market, it can be difficult to decide which one is best for your dog. Many of us overly cautious dog owners correctly want to avoid dyes, fragrances, and chemicals, knowing these ingredients can irritate our dog’s skin – and possible adversely affect his health. We believe a shampoo with the word “hypoallergenic” in its name should be safer and better for our dog’s overall health.

The problem is, there is no legal definition of the term “hypoallergenic” (see below).

If you asked any adult for a common definition (rather than a legal definition) of hypoallergenic, most would likely guess that it means a product without allergens in it – even though this is impossible. Every substance, including water, can cause an allergic reaction in someone, somewhere. The prefix hypo actually means “beneath” or “below.” Medical dictionaries do the best job of defining the phrase as “having diminished (our emphasis) potential for causing an allergic reaction.” In this instance, then, the word should be taken to identify a product that contains fewer potentially allergenic substances than other products on the market.

We have issues with the latter part of the word, too. Technically speaking, an allergen is any substance that causes an allergic response – one that sets off a hypersensitive immune response, ranging from localized inflammation to a fatal, systemic anaphylaxis. We’d submit that it probably is quite rare for a dog to suffer a true allergic reaction to an ingredient in a shampoo; it’s far more likely for a dog to suffer simple (if serious) contact dermatitis.

A dog with contact dermatitis from an ingredient or ingredients in his shampoo will likely have an immediate adverse response that’s based on where the ingredients came into contact with his skin, the strength of the solution, and how long it was left on his skin.

In contrast, a dog with an allergic reaction may not exhibit signs of trouble the first time he comes in contact with the allergenic substance; however, subsequent exposures may bring about more rapid and widespread reactions. He may exhibit skin irritation all over his body, even when exposed to the problematic allergen in a very small amount or for a very short period.

For all these reasons, we don’t like the phrase hypoallergenic shampoo!

hypoallergenic dog shampoo

What is a “Hypoallergenic” Dog Shampoo – and Who Regulates It?

The phrase “hypoallergenic” was first used in advertising by the cosmetics company Almay in 1953. Almay was founded in 1931 by Alfred and Fanny May Woititz when Alfred, a chemist, began developing skin care products for his wife – cosmetics that wouldn’t irritate Fanny May’s sensitive skin. Almay was the first company to market the concept of skincare product safety, and set itself apart by producing fragrance-free products, including all product ingredients on product labels, and testing its products for allergy and irritation. After its introduction by Almay, the description “hypoallergenic” quickly became widespread in the cosmetics industry – even if the products they described were not, in actual fact, less allergenic than other products.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates the cosmetic industry in the United States. The FDA provides guidance and enforcement for cosmetic companies in order to ensure the safety of consumers. It also provides oversight of labels and misrepresentations under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. These Acts provide definitions for anything that can be on a cosmetic product label. “Shampoo,” not incidentally, is defined as a cosmetic: “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body . . . for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance… .”

In 1974, the FDA attempted to regulate the phrase hypoallergenic as it pertains to cosmetics. It proposed that a product should be permitted to be labeled hypoallergenic only if scientific studies on human subjects showed the product caused a significantly lower rate of adverse skin reactions than ordinary products.

Comments on the proposal were received from consumers, consumer advocacy groups, and cosmetic manufacturers. The FDA issued its final regulation in 1975 – and two cosmetic companies, Almay and Clinique (another company specializing in “hypoallergenic” products), immediately filed suit to have the regulation ruled as invalid. Eventually, the U.S. Court of Appeals agreed with their objections, stating that the FDA had not demonstrated that consumers perceive the term “hypoallergenic” in the way described in the regulation.

The FDA has not attempted to codify regulations regarding hypoallergenic products since. A 1978 FDA consumer magazine article about the battles over the “hypoallergenic” regulations concluded, “As a result of the decision, manufacturers may continue to label and advertise their cosmetics as ‘hypoallergenic’ or make similar claims without any supporting evidence. Consumers will have no assurance that such claims are valid.”

What about hypoallergenic dog shampoos? Well, it’s even less charted territory. We’ve already established that hypoallergenic lacks a legal definition. Dog shampoos that claim to cure, treat, or otherwise mitigate a disease or ailment are regulated by the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine. Dog shampoos that claim to kill or control fleas or ticks fall under the regulatory purview of the Environmental Protection Agency. But “regular” dog shampoos, “hypoallergenic” or otherwise, fall under the category of “grooming aids,” which are not regulated by any governmental or non-governmental agency in this country.

“Hypoallergenic” is the Best Label We’ve Got

Despite the lack of a legal or even accurate definition of the phrase “hypoallergenic shampoo,” manufacturers that use that phrase are generally trying to identify products that are formulated without ingredients that commonly cause adverse reactions in sensitive dogs. Given the lack of a legal description, we, too, are forced to use the appellation to discuss the type of product we’d recommend for dogs with super-sensitive skin. For the rest of the article, we’re going to grit our teeth and refrain from using quotation marks around the phrase hypoallergenic shampoo, and trust that you understand.

Just keep in mind that while these products might reduce the potential for harming a chemically sensitive or allergy-prone dog, there are no guarantees that this will be the case for any specific dog. And there are no regulators – only your own informed diligence – making sure that a product marketed as hypoallergenic has any fewer ingredients or less-harmful ingredients than any other ordinary shampoo.

Why is My Dog’s Skin So Sensitive?

If your dog seems chronically itchy, or always seems to have red, irritated skin and/or excessive dander, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

itchy dog

The problem might just be caused by environmental allergies (to things such as pollen or dust mites) or too much sun (yes, dogs can get sunburned) – conditions that might benefit from a bath with a gentle, non-irritating shampoo.

But itchy dry skin can be caused by disease as well, including Cushing’s, hypothyroidism, bacterial/fungal infections, parasites, environmental allergies, and even cancer. Itchy skin can also be a reaction to something the dog has eaten; your dog may be allergic to something in his diet. While a bath might give the skin temporary relief, you can’t bathe away reactions to food. Alternatively, a food might offer some relief; your veterinarian may recommend a nutritional supplement, such as fish oil, to promote skin health. But without a correct diagnosis, you delay proper treatment and the problem can worsen.

Or, you might just learn that your dog has inherited a propensity for irritated skin. “Genetics plays a big role in many of the skin diseases that veterinarians deal with. Coat color has an impact in some instances, such as white dogs sunburn more easily, but in many cases it’s the breed that’s the issue; for example, we see allergies in black, yellow, or chocolate Labs,” says William H. Miller Jr., VMD, DACVD, Professor of Dermatology and Medical Director of the Companion Animal Hospital at the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

“Some blue-colored dogs will lose hair because of a defect in their coat color genetics while other blue-colored dogs have beautiful coats because they don’t have the abnormal coat color genes,” Dr. Miller says.

The bottom line? Involve your veterinarian any time a skin condition fails to improve within a week after a bath with a gentle shampoo. And certainly take a hard look at that shampoo bottle if it worsens!

See also:

Helping Itchy Dogs,” (February 2016)

Will Your Allergic Dog Benefit from a Food Elimination Diet?,” (March 2015)

Canine Allergies: Most Common Causes, Best Tests, and Effective Treatments,” (April 2011)

Hallmarks of Hypoallergenic Shampoos

Regular shampoos are developed to cleanse your dog’s skin and coat. Shampoos generally contain at least one “surface active agent” (surfactant), a compound that lowers the surface tension between two liquids. Depending on the surfactant/s used, their activity in the product may be detergent, wetting, emulsifying, foaming, or dispersing. Shampoos may also contain thickeners (to adjust the viscosity of the product), deodorizers, fragrance, color, detanglers, and preservatives.

Products meant for dogs with sensitive skin should contain as few ingredients as possible. A shorter ingredients list means the product has fewer possible ingredients that can potentially cause a reaction.

dog shampoo label

For this reason, hypoallergenic products generally omit some of the ingredients that provide some of the traits many of us are accustomed to having in a shampoo – compounds we have come to expect in a shampooing experience, but that are unnecessary and potentially harmful to the truly super-sensitive dog. Hypoallergenic shampoos, then, generally won’t be as thick as regular shampoos, and probably won’t lather up in a nice, lush manner; they’re formulated to rinse off quickly.

Traits to Look For in Dog Shampoos

Here are the factors we weigh when shopping for a shampoo for super-sensitive dogs:

Ingredient Disclosures

The label on your dog’s food must include a complete list of ingredients, but there is no legal requirement that his shampoo, hypoallergenic or otherwise, must disclose its contents. Most shampoo labels list no ingredients at all or a generic description such as “all natural ingredients.”

In our opinion, though, the products that are marketed as particularly gentle or for dogs with particularly sensitive skin should be held to a higher standard than “regular” shampoos. Ideally, the makers of these products would list every ingredient, so that if her dog had a bad reaction to a product, a consumer could try to avoid products with those ingredients in the future – and possibly identify which ingredient caused problems for her dog.

For the most part, however, we’ve had to settle for products that list most of their ingredients and will specify which ingredients they don’t contain. That said, we consider it equally deceptive to promote a product as not containing specific unwanted ingredients but failing to state all that is in the product. If a dog has an adverse reaction to a particular shampoo, without a complete list of ingredients, the owner has no starting point for finding a replacement product.

Concise Descriptions

Label claims that are too vague, such as “all natural ingredients,” “proprietary,” or “herbal extracts,” get our consumer hackles up. What herbs? What plants? With generic ingredient listings like these, a consumer can’t determine if a product poses certain risks to her dog or not.

Also, the term “proprietary blend” doesn’t cut it for us. We understand that pet grooming is a competitive market, and we don’t expect a company to give away their secret formula. However, we’re not asking for the recipe. We just want to know what’s included in the finished product.

Few and Simple Ingredients

When choosing a shampoo for a sensitive dog, we look for products that cleanse our dog and rinse out easily, with a minimal number of simple ingredients. We’d avoid all unnecessary ingredients, such as perfumes, fragrances, and dyes.

Dry Skin? Avoid Sulfates

If a dog has particularly dry skin, you may wish to sacrifice suds and lather in order to avoid sulfates (including sodium lauryl sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate, triethanalomine, and alkyl sodium sulfate) that can be irritating to dry skin.

Don’t confuse sodium lauryl sulfate with the mild detergent sodium laureth sulfate, which is widely used as a water softener and in baby and other non-irritating shampoos as a wettener and cleansing ingredient.

Long Words Are Okay in Shampoo Ingredients

Some advisors recommend that dog owners avoid products that have words that can’t easily be pronounced on the label. That’s ridiculous. I can’t say “rosmarinus officinalis,” but I know that it is rosemary, a common ingredient in hypoallergenic shampoos. Rosemary offers natural preservative capabilities as well as deodorizing, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic properties.

Soap is Okay, Too

Of course, your own dog will have to be the judge, but in general, we’re not bothered by “soap” as an ingredient. Many hypoallergenic formulas bragged that they were “soap-free.” Soap can be chemical or natural, and it isn’t always harsh. If you see “saponified coconut oil” or “saponified olive oil” or something similar, the product contains soap. Saponification is the process by which vegetable oils or animal fats are made into soap.

The Preservative Conundrum

Preservatives are a double-edged ingredient. The chemicals that most effectively preserve shampoos are most likely to cause adverse reactions in sensitive dogs. Some examples include parabens, which might be listed on the label as propylparaben or butylparaben; these ingredients are also antibacterial. Some shampoos use formaldehyde as a preservative, which might be listed as sodium hydroxymethylhydroxymethylglycinate.

One common shampoo preservative is methylchloroisothiazolinone, developed as a replacement for formaldehyde, and popular because it’s also anti-bacterial and anti-fungal. According to Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, methylchloroisothiazolinone has been “linked to lung toxicity, allergic reactions, and possible neurotoxicity.” No, thank you, not for my dogs.

If you choose products with natural preservatives, look to see what, specifically, is the preserving agent. Is it rosemary? Is it grape seed extract? Is it lemongrass? Is it something else?

If you want to avoid preservatives altogether, buy smaller bottles of shampoo with expiration dates. And make sure that if a preservative-free shampoo includes an expiration date, don’t use the product beyond that date. It could mean that the preservative is no longer reliable after that date, so using it would totally negate the benefits of that product and, possibly, harm you or your dog.

Make Your Own Doggy Shampoo!

Dogster.com offers some easy recipes for shampoo for dogs. You might find one of these works the best!

Bathing Sensitive Dogs

If your dog has an adverse reaction to any shampoo, contact your veterinarian to see if there is anything you should do to ameliorate his symptoms. Then note the product name and its ingredients in your dog’s health journal, so you can avoid that product (and perhaps other products with similar formulations) in the future.

Keep in mind that the shampoo that you choose for your sensitive dog isn’t the only “bath factor” that can affect his skin. Bathing your dog too often can compromise the health of his skin, even with a gentle product. Excessive bathing can remove your dog’s natural oils and dry his skin and coat. Overly dry skin can crack, itch, and even bleed, setting the stage for more itching and possibly infection.

“For normal dogs, the biggest issue probably isn’t the shampoo itself but how often the bath is given and what the whole bathing protocol involves,” says William H. Miller Jr., VMD, DACVD, Professor of Dermatology and Medical Director of the Companion Animal Hospital at the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. “Many people over-bathe their dogs, as far as skin health is concerned. You can cause some skin issues if you bathe your dog too often, even with a very mild shampoo.” Also, while most groomers will tell you that a dog must be completely dried after a bath in order to prevent aggravating fungal skin conditions (especially if the dog has an extremely heavy coat), Dr. Miller contends that “intense blow drying after the bath can only make things worse.”

A final note: Don’t bathe your hypersensitive dog with a human shampoo, no matter how gentle it seems to be. Dog skin and human skin have different pH levels, with dogs being more alkaline and humans being more neutral.

Cynthia Foley is a freelance writer and dog-agility competitor in New York.

Summer Activities for Your Dog and You

Now that the warmer weather is on its way, many of us will be thinking of the different places and things we can do with our dogs in the great outdoors.

But before you embark on a trip with your dog, think of her individual preferences in addition to yours. It’s wonderful when your dog is easygoing and gets along with everyone. Our dog Helen of Troy, CGC, TT, ATD, is one of those – she greets all humans and other dogs (and even cats and rabbits!) with a happy tail wag and sniff. But your dog may not be as social, so determine realistically the sort of places and times where and when your dog will be most comfortable. Is there a particular path or trail that is less populated at certain times? If your dog is reactive, maybe it’s time to work on some counter-conditioning and desensitization before embarking. (See “Leash Reactivity in Otherwise Friendly Dogs,” May 2012.)

dog running in field

You could also enroll in a “Reactive Rover” class in your area as a prerequisite to your outdoor experience (but first make sure the trainer uses positive-reinforcement methods!). If there aren’t any such classes accessible to you, check out the following resources:

“The Leash Reactivity Blueprint,” (DVD), by Tristan Flynn

“Reactivity: A Program for Rehabilitation,” (DVD), by Emily Larlham

Beware of the Dog, by Pat Miller

Even if your dog is not reactive, get him ready for the great outdoors by practicing some basic manners, such as checking in with you (see “Train Your Dog to ‘Check In’,” March 2017); playing the “name game” (see “The Importance of a Dog’s Name with Regard to Training,” January 2011); reliable recalls (see “Rocket Recall,” September 2015); and loose-leash walking (“Loose Leash Walking: Training Your Dog Not to Pull,” April 2017). You can practice all of this in the comfort of your own home and, if available, your own backyard before venturing far afield. Or if possible, take a brush-up Good Manners class with a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement-based training.

Part of your spring planning might be to evaluate the equipment you currently use to walk your dog. If it’s working for you, great. If your dog is pulling hard, apart from working on your technique, perhaps look into a front clip harness (“The 2017 Best Dog Harnesses Review,” April 2017), combined with a martingale collar or a head halter. (See this Jean Donaldson video on conditioning your dog to enjoy wearing a head halter.)

Always Check Dog Policies to Avoid Disappointment

In preparing for your outing, make sure you check the rules. In our area, many of the trails and parks permit dogs but they must be leashed. I have, however, encountered locations that don’t allow dogs at all. Don’t risk receiving a citation after you’ve spent time and resources to get there; be sure you know you will be welcome with your canine companion.

I always remind my Family Manners clients that everyone is not required to love your dog. So, don’t allow your dog to greet strangers – human or otherwise – without an invitation. As for greeting other dogs on leash – it’s not the best scenario for a happy outcome. Similarly, if your dog is not comfortable meeting new people, just politely and firmly say to all would-be greeters, “My dog is not friendly” and move on.

Of course, you will always be ready to pick up your dog’s waste. If people see owners who allow their dogs to defecate without cleaning up, run amok, and make themselves a nuisance, the areas where dogs are permitted will shrink.

Depending on the jurisdiction, you may need to carry proof of your dog’s rabies vaccination and licensing. In some areas it’s not enough to have a tag on your dog; you need a copy of the actual license. If you are traveling out of state with your dog, you may need a health certificate from your veterinarian.

Summer Dog Gear

Assuming your dog is physically and behaviorally ready to hit the trail, prepare yourself and your dog for your outing. It’s a great idea to carry a backpack (and there are even nice ones your dog can carry as well) to carry all your trail essentials:

– Water (I use a bottle called a Gulpy, a plastic bottle that has a nifty device that allows your dog to drink right from the bottle without an additional bowl; see New Angle Pet Products)

- Snacks for you and your dog, including training treats

- Poop bags (This goes without saying!)

Unless your dog has an absolutely rock-solid recall, I suggest keeping her on a leash. You can use a longer one on the trail if that’s helpful to you; there are nice 15-footers that will allow you to give your dog more freedom, such as the ones made by Bridgeport Equipment, or a long line. (WDJ editor Nancy Kerns is never without her favorite, soft long line from White Pine Outfitters.)

I don’t recommend using retractable leads; the thin line can do damage to your hands if you grab it, and if dropped, the plastic handle can become a flying missile that scares your dog into a panicked run.

Be sure your dog has a tag on him with your current phone number on it – and carry a cellphone in case of emergency. It’s a good idea to put together a basic first-aid kit that you keep in your car, with some essentials like gauze, bandages, sterile tape, cold compress, hydrogen peroxide, blanket, antibiotic cream, Benadryl (check with your vet regarding appropriate dosage for your dog), muzzle, and tweezers. (See our review of pet first-aid kits in the May 2015 issue.)

pet first aid kit

When hiking in the back country, I also always carry yummy treats and a can of Spray Shield (formerly Direct Stop) citronella spray. You never know when you might encounter a threatening dog and need to use the spray defensively. (See “Tips on Stopping a Loose Dog from Approaching You,” May 2016.)

While vacationing on an island a couple of summers ago, my husband, our dog Helen, and I were standing by the harbor as a family came in on their dingy. Their dog visually locked onto Helen, and I sensed trouble even before he jumped out of their boat and made a beeline for us.

My husband scooped up our 39-pound pittie and while the other dog completely ignored his owners’ shouts, I tossed treats at him, heading toward his owners while Paul and Helen got away. If the treats didn’t work, I was prepared to use the spray (but, thank goodness, I didn’t have to). The spray is citronella-based and while it does no permanent harm, it will deter many dogs that are not as easily dissuaded by treats.

You may want to invest in one of the great treat bags WDJ reviewed in the August 2016 issue, which allow you to carry these essentials right on your belt.

Of course, it’s critical that you consider your dog’s comfort and hydration during any summertime activity. Heatstroke is a very real and dangerous (but fortunately preventable) condition, and dogs who haven’t been slowly acclimated to exercising in high temperatures are at the highest risk. Make sure you have sufficient water to offer him, and offer it often! (See “Keep Your Dog Cool and Hydrated This Summer,” May 2004.)

The Premack Principle

A great thing about figuring out what makes your dog happy in terms of exercise and play time is you can use it for training. There is a behavioral principle conceived by Professor David Premack, popularly known as the “Premack Principle.” (It’s also known as Grandma’s Law: “You have to eat your vegetables before you can have your dessert.”) It states that you can use more probable behaviors to reinforce less probable ones. It means that you can get your dog to perform a less-fun behavior in order to have the opportunity to perform a more desirable behavior.

It’s a simple concept – if your dog can’t wait to get out to play with his favorite toy in the yard, ask him to sit politely at the door. Once he has achieved this, you can say, “Yes!” and throw him the toy.

Similarly, at the lake, if he is shaking with excitement to get in the water, don’t just let him drag you there. Ask him to sit, walk politely, and, if necessary, even retreat to your vehicle. Don’t let him wade or swim until he exhibits the self-control necessary to walk on a loose leash – and then let him have a blast!

dog on paddleboard

Activity Ideas for Dogs

What about swimming? Many dogs absolutely love to engage in this activity, but some don’t. Don’t coerce your dog into the water; that’s not going to improve his association with swimming. Our dog Chester was tentative when we first introduced him to water, but dove in when we started throwing his beloved toys into the wet stuff.

There are many great floatable toys that your dog may enjoy retrieving, such as the Kong Company’s Wubba toy. We found that just 10 to 15 minutes of this game resulted in a happy and tired dog. I do suggest you keep your dog on a long line and even have her wear a life vest made for dogs. (See “The Best Life Jackets for Dogs,” July 2016.) Dogs drown, too! Don’t even think of letting your dog have access to a pool or other body of water without careful supervision; my cousins lost their beautiful American Staffordshire Terrier when he couldn’t get out of a neighbors’ pool, and drowned.

Once home, I advise rinsing your dog off well. Whether the dog was in a chlorinated pool or in a natural body of water, there are plenty of potential irritants that can make your dog itchy.

Many people love to run with their dogs. Count me among them (when Chester was younger)! It’s important to assess the physical condition of your dog and the potential effects of running on his joints.

Consult with your veterinarian about when it’s advisable to run a growing dog for extended periods, especially on hard surfaces. Once your dog is fully mature and you have determined he enjoys this activity, go for it! Be prepared with your treats, dog deterrent spray, and water.

Just as we are always advised to start slowly and work up to longer distances, so should we do with our dogs. In very warm weather, keep your runs short, or schedule these outings for cooler early-morning or evening hours. (For tips on starting an exercise program that will benefit you and your dog, see “Fitness Together,” April 2013.)

Don’t overlook social activities with your dog! Many towns have dog parks and some even have restaurants that offer “Yappy Hours” for people who want to bring their dogs and socialize. Many farmers’ markets allow people to bring their dogs, and parks and ballgames are other potential venues for summer fun.

frisbee dog

Assess whether your dog is a candidate for such close quarters with other dogs and people. Be certain your dog will be an ambassador for his species and not make himself a nuisance by jumping on people or grabbing food out of children’s hands. Even if your dog is a good citizen, you may encounter other dogs who are not, and humans who are oblivious to their dogs’ behaviors.

If you have a young dog or puppy, socialization is important, but make sure it’s a positive experience for your young dog and don’t let him get overwhelmed. (See “The Complete Puppy Socialization Guide,” May 2017.)

If you’d like to try a dog park, go by yourself first, and just observe from outside the fenced area. Does it seem well managed? Are small dogs separated from large? What’s the culture like;: Are the owners attentive, or just socializing among themselves and ignoring inappropriate canine behavior? Do the dogs get along, or is bullying happening – or even actual fights breaking out? If your assessment is positive, give it a try. (See “Dog Park Etiquette,” September 2006.)

If the park looks more hazardous than happy, you may be better off setting up your own play dates, by inviting a couple of friends with nice, friendly dogs to your fenced yard, or borrowing a yard from a friend or neighbor for that purpose. In a familiar environment, you can better manage the dogs’ interactions, and keep the number appropriate. If play gets too rough, ask your dog to come, reward her, let her rest a bit, and then rejoin.

For those of us who like more organized canine activities, search out local dog clubs and training centers and try a new sport! See WDJ’s past articles:

Canine Agility Training: The Ultimate Team Sport,” (April 2002)

Canine Sports: Competitive Obedience,” (June 2010)

Disc Dog Competitions,” (February 2010)

Flyball Racing,” (May 2002)

Lure Coursing: Is Your Dog Up for the Chase?” (September 2009)

Canine Musical Freestyle,” (November 2004)

Dog Parkour: Canine Urban Athletes,” (March 2017)

Rally Obedience Classes for Dogs,” (July 2000)

Stand-Up Paddleboarding with Your Dog,” (August 2014)

Canine Sports: Tracking,” (July 2010)

Treibball: A New Herding Sport – No Sheep Required,” (July 2011)

Driving With Your Dog

I always crate my dogs when they are in my vehicle. If we were in an accident, the crate would likely contain them.

I have identifying information contained within a plastic sleeve attached to their crates, complete with the phone numbers of friends in case my husband and I were too badly hurt to help our dogs. I keep a copy of my dogs’ rabies certificates and licenses there, as well as a statement about each dog and guaranteeing the payment of any vet bills.

If you prefer to use a seatbelt for your dog, check out WDJ’s top picks for car safety harnesses in the January 2015 issue.

Conclusion

There are countless other activities for your dogs outside whether, it’s in your own backyard chasing a ball, fetching a flying disc, or playing with a flirt pole (such as the one made by Squishy Face Studio and available from Chewy.com and other online outlets), or hiking, swimming, or running. See WDJ Training Editor Pat Miller’s book, Play With Your Dog, for even more ideas. Exercising your dog in this way will likely result in a calm and peaceful dog at home, but will also strengthen your relationship with your canine companion. Isn’t that what it’s all about?

Helene Goldberger, Esq., CPDT-KA, PMCT, grew up with dogs and pursued a better way to train in order to help her fear-aggressive dog, Chester Bighead, CGC, TT. This path led her to becoming a professional trainer; her training business is called HeartDog. Helene is of counsel to Tooher & Barone, LLP, an environmental law firm, in Albany, NY.

Teach Your Dog to Make Eye Contact

If your dog doesn’t already know the value of eye contact with humans, you can easily teach her. This is an operant conditioning/positive reinforcement exercise – your dog learns her behavior can make good stuff happen:

1. Holding a tasty treat in your hand, have your dog sit in front of you.

2. Show her the treat and move it to the corner of your eye. When her eyes meet yours, click and treat. Repeat.

3. Say the cue “Watch!” just before you move the treat to your eye. When she makes eye contact, click and treat. Repeat.

teaching eye contact to dogs

4. After several repetitions (the number of repetitions needed will depend on the individual dog), pause after you give the “Watch!” cue and see if she looks into your eyes. If she does, click and treat. If she doesn’t, move the treat to your eye, click and treat.

5. Say “Watch!” Move the treat halfway to your eye, and wait. Just wait. Eventually she will glance at your eyes. Click and treat. (If she never looks at your eyes, do several more repetitions of Step 4.)

6. Say “Watch” and hold the treat at arm’s length out to the side. Wait. She will likely stare at the treat for a moment or two, but invariably, within a few moments, she will glance at your face (usually, in an effort to try to figure out what you are doing!). When she makes eye contact, click and treat.

When your dog has come to realize the value of eye contact, she will sometimes offer the behavior without being cued. Be sure to reinforce offered eye contact as well as cued eye contact. To help her be comfortable with eye contact from other humans, ask your friends to play the “Watch” game with her as well.

Train Your Dog to Accept Hugs

I confess – I love hugging dogs as much as the next human. Of the three Miller dogs, two love to be hugged (Kai the Kelpie and Bonnie the Scorgidoodle), while Lucy the Corgi, has made her no-hugging preferences abundantly clear with avoidance behaviors, so I don’t even try. If we didn’t have at least one dog who loved hugs, I might need to teach one to at least tolerate them.

This process involves either classical conditioning (giving a puppy a positive association with something she doesn’t already have an opinion of), or classical counter-conditioning (giving a dog a new association with something she already has a negative opinion of). Either way, the process is similar, but it may go slower if you are working to change an existing opinion rather than simply installing one where none previously exists.

1. Sit next to your sitting dog, with a handful of tasty treats in the hand farthest from your dog. (Assuming your dog is on your left side, have treats in your right hand. If you prefer the other side, just flip the following directions.)

pat miller dog trainer

2. Touch the top of your dog’s shoulders (the withers) briefly with your left hand. While your hand is touching her, immediately deliver a high-value treat to her mouth with your right hand. Remove both hands at the same time.

3. Repeat the brief touch-then-feed process until you see your dog brighten happily and turn to look for the arrival of the treat when you touch her. (Note: If you can’t get her happy at this step, don’t go any further. You have three choices now: a) Seek the help of a positive reinforcement-based trainer to help you with the process; b) Resign yourself to hugging other humans instead of your dog; c) Look to adopt a second dog into your family who clearly loves being hugged.)

4. Gradually increase the length of time you touch her. As you increase the length of touch, feed, pause, then feed again. Feed multiple times as the length of touch-time increase.

5. Now touch your dog on her far shoulder, just the other side of the withers, and immediately feed. This will start to move your arm over her back as is you are beginning to hug her.

6. Repeat this touch as you did with the withers touch, gradually increasing length of time and multiple feedings as she looks happy about the process.

7. Slowly increase the approximations of your touch toward an actual hug, making sure you get a consistent positive response at each step before proceeding further.

Canine Body Language Danger Signs

The number of times a person has been bitten gives a big clue as to his capacity to read, understand, and respond properly to canine communications. Someone who has been bitten numerous times either doesn’t pay attention to what dogs say, or doesn’t respond appropriately.

Dogs almost always give clear signals – though the signs may be subtle – before they bite. A “bite without warning” is truly a rare occurrence. Most of the time the human just wasn’t listening, or didn’t have any education about what the dog was expressing. I have worked with dogs professionally for more than 40 years and, knock wood, experienced only a handful of bites, none of them serious.

I remember with crystal clarity an incident from when I was a humane officer for the Marin (California) Humane Society, responding to a complaint of a Rhodesian Ridgeback who was at large – and reportedly aggressive toward people. I pulled up in my animal control truck, got out, and started up the sidewalk toward the house. Suddenly I saw a brown blur out of the corner of my eye, and realized the Ridgeback was charging at me from behind the house. I froze in place.

She ran straight up to me and muzzle-punched me (hit me with her closed mouth). Although I had not received any in-depth training in understanding dog body language, I realized that this was a strong warning, and if I moved abruptly she would likely bite me. She stepped back a couple of feet, and I slowly backed up to my truck. Once there I was able to retrieve a control pole, gently noose her, load her into my truck and, unscathed, walk back to the house to talk to her owner. Phew!

The ability to read and react appropriately to dog body language can keep you safe with your own dog as well as others you may encounter. Here are four photos that present different levels of danger based on the dogs’ aggressive expressions.

dog hard stare

This mother dog is giving the photographer a direct stare – and her eyes look somewhat “hard.” Her stiff, forward-leaning posture and ears, and slightly pushed-forward lips, are warning you to stay back. She’s not aroused, just guarding her puppies. It would be wise to heed her warning.

dog aggressive posture

The next dog is also pushing her lips forward, in a slightly more threatening display. Her posture, tail, and ears are quite stiff, and her hair is standing up a little. She’s laser-focused on another dog, and not in a particularly friendly way. This dog hasn’t aggressed yet, but she’s starting to get aroused. We’d give her a wide berth.

dog aggression

Here are two dog body language lessons in one photo. The adult dog is making a fearsome face, drawing his lips back in an impressive snarl, and holding his ears and tail up and stiff. But notice that he’s not leaning at all forward, and his eyes are not super hard (though it’s difficult to see from this angle). He’s giving the puppy a stern warning to “Don’t come near me!” and the puppy reads this loud and clear. She’s responded with a classic puppy grovel: she’s lowered her body posture and leaned backward, and she’s holding her ears back and wagging her tail. She won’t look directly at the adult, but looks away with soft, squinty eyes. Note that she’s trying to appease the adult dog – she’s acknowledging his warning – but she isn’t terrified or afraid for her life.

untrained aggressive dog

This dog is dangerously conflicted. His lips are pushed forward hard, but his ears are pinned back; his eye contact is hard and direct but his tail is low. His posture looks like he’s leaning forward and back; he’s frightened and willing to come after you. This dog was being held following his (and another dog’s) attack on an elderly woman who was in her own yard. The dogs were untrained, unsocialized, and inadequately contained; both paid the ultimate price for their owner’s negligence and irresponsibility.

How to Help a Leash-Reactive Dog

Maybe it was after the time your mild-mannered Maltese puppy was dramatically barrel-rolled by the fun-loving Labrador during a critical developmental period. Or maybe the potentially personality-altering offense was more obvious – like a blatant attack by another dog while on a walk.

In either case, it’s very possible the experience has left your dog leery of other dogs. And with good reason! In many dogs, this well-founded fear presents as an aggressive front; after all, the best defense is a strong offense. While your dog might look like he’s trying to be a “tough guy,” what he’s really saying is, “HELP! I’m very frightened of that dog. Please don’t let it come any closer. Get back! Get away!”

This is problematic for many reasons. Owners are often embarrassed by their dog’s outbursts, not understanding that the unwanted behavior is rooted in an emotional issue (fear) and is not a display of disobedience. A recent Facebook post (author unknown) sums it up beautifully: “Your dog isn’t giving you a hard time; he’s having one!” Yes!

spooked puppy on leash

 

Dog Reactivity Comes from Distress

Beyond the human hang-ups and logistical challenges associated with a dog who now displays reactive behavior in the presence of other dogs, we must consider the impact on the dog. Reactive outbursts are the product of distress, and distress is serious business. It takes a long time for the body to recover from the jolt of hormones that happens during a distressful event. This altered brain state can leave your dog susceptible to triggers he might not otherwise react to, which is why many dogs can seem “edgy” for some time following a particularly stressful event.

According to Sara Reusche, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KSA, CVT, of Paws Abilities Dog Training in Rochester, Minnesota, while the initial adrenaline spike begins to subside after about 15 minutes, it can take between two to six days for glucocorticoids, like cortisol, to return to baseline levels, provided no other stressors occur. This is especially challenging for dogs who react to stimuli (other dogs, kids, skateboards, etc.) while on daily walks, as it’s unlikely their cortisol and related hormone levels ever have a chance to return to normal.

Reusche adds that dogs who live with chronic distress are more likely to experience chronic health issues such as allergies and gastrointestinal disturbances. Chronic distress can also hasten the aging process, decrease cognitive function, and weaken the immune system, delaying wound healing and making the dog more susceptible to disease and infections (such as urinary tract infections). Here are things you can do to get the stress monkey off your backs:

1. Give yourselves a break.

Like the joke goes, “I told my doctor it hurts when I bend my elbow. His solution? Don’t bend my elbow!” Avoidance is not without its merits.

When helping a dog recover from a reactivity issue, it’s important to keep your dog sub-threshold. This means going to great lengths to avoid putting the dog in situations where he feels so overwhelmed that he exhibits an emotional outburst. In densely populated areas, this often requires taking neighborhood walks during off-hours, or skipping the neighborhood altogether in favor of a shorter walk in a nearby shopping center. Both tactics serve to reduce unwanted dog encounters, especially when you aren’t prepared to train your way through the situation.

Similar tactics include ducking behind parked cars, heading up a driveway, crossing the street, or abruptly changing directions. These are all reasonable, supportive measures that can be taken in an effort to quickly increase distance between yourselves and another dog. Obviously, this is easier when the other dog is on leash. For tips on handling loose-dog encounters, see “Tips on Stopping a Loose Dog from Approaching You,” WDJ May 2016.

Distance is your friend! Staying “sub-threshold” is largely about understanding at what distance your dog can acknowledge another dog’s presence yet still feel safe enough to not react.

2. Don’t punish your dog!

Harsh reprimands, leash-pops, and other forms of punishment might appear to offer relief, but, in reality, punishment often suppresses behavior only temporarily.

Reactivity is an emotional issue. The dog growls, barks, and lunges because of how he feels. Punishing the behavior is an ill-fated attempt to address the issue by focusing on the symptoms, not the cause. It’s important to get to the root of the behavior – the dog’s fear of other dogs, which is what’s driving his behavior.

Punishment can also make problems worse when dogs, who are masters at making strong associations, pair the punishment with the trigger. For example, let’s say a dog growls when other dogs get too close. When he does, his owner issues a sharp collar correction and a harsh, “Quiet!” – both of which are unpleasant to the dog. Many dogs will begin to associate the sight of another dog with the impending act of aggression from the handler. In the dog’s mind, “See! Other dogs are bad; they even make my owner aggressive!” And then the dog works even harder to keep the “bad dogs” away!

distracting dog on walk

 

3. Change your dog’s emotional response to his trigger.

As you work to keep your dog sub-threshold to help manage his behavior, you can also aim to change how he feels about other dogs. Counter-conditioning is a powerful tool to help change a dog’s emotional state in the presence of a trigger. You can use two different types of counter-conditioning for a dog who has been traumatized: classical counter-conditioning and operant counter-conditioning.

Counter-conditioning is used in situations where the dog has already formed a negative association with something, because you’re trying to counter, or change, the association. This is most often accomplished with a powerful primary reinforcer, such as high-value treats, but access to favorite toys can also work for dogs who are highly motivated by toys.

In classical counter-conditioning, the goal is to try to transfer the positive feelings the dog has for high-value treats (or toy play) onto the trigger (in this case, the presence of other dogs), thus creating a new association in the dog’s mind. For example, when you know at what distance your dog can see other dogs, but still feel safe enough to not react, be prepared to feed a steady stream of treats the entire time the trigger (another dog) is within eyesight. As soon as the dog is out of sight, the treats stop.

Trainer Jean Donaldson, author of The Culture Clash, calls this “Open Bar, Closed Bar.” When the trigger is present, the bar is open and the treats flow freely. Once the trigger goes away, the bar is closed. People often mistakenly refer to this as using treats to “distract” the dog, but behavioral science is hard at work behind the scenes!

Also useful in mild cases of reactivity for building a new, improved response to the trigger, is operant counter-conditioning: when in the presence of the trigger, the dog is asked to perform a specific behavior that is incompatible with the unwanted behavior.

For example, a dog who might otherwise bark or lunge at other dogs is asked to “look,” “watch,” or “sit” instead. It works because, through training, the dog has learned to enjoy performing the alternative behaviors (and being rewarded for doing so), and those good feelings help create a new and happy association with the trigger.

Note: If this seems difficult for your dog, you’re not keeping him at a sub-threshold distance from his trigger.

4. Manage your own stress signals.

Owners, too, often become tense in the presence of the dog’s trigger, either because they’re also on hyper-alert following an attack, or because they worry their dog will react undesirably. They may tense their shoulders, hold their breath – and they almost always tighten the leash. These behaviors can all be huge red flags to our dogs – a clear sign that danger is imminent!

leash reactivity training

 

If you find yourself tensing up as triggers appear, consider the following:

Remember to breathe. When anxious, our breathing often becomes shallow. Deep, purposeful inhalations and exhalations help relieve tension (yours and your dog’s!)

Shake it off. Just as dogs use full-body shake-offs to relieve tension, humans also benefit. Practitioners of Tension & Trauma Release Exercise® believe a good shake helps release muscular tension, calms the nervous system, and encourages the body to return to a better state of balance.

Sing to your dog. My training mentor often asks clients to sing “Happy Birthday” to their dogs when she sees them visibly tensing up. It sounds silly, and people feel silly doing it, but that’s why it works. It’s much harder to remain physically tense when you’re laughing about singing to your dog. Plus, most of us have strong positive associations with the song. (Operant counter-conditioning for the win!)

Relax the leash. Your emotions travel down a tight leash like the Autobahn! Plus, a tight leash restricts natural dog body language and can make your dog feel trapped, increasing the odds he’ll react defensively.

5. Create “safe” encounters with other dogs.

Dog encounters out in public are unpredictable, which means it can sometimes be hard to keep dogs sub-threshold while on the road to recovery.

While it’s important to try to do the best you can during everyday outings with your dogs, it’s also useful to recruit dog-owning friends to help. Dogs with mild reactivity often benefit from casual dog walks with mellow dogs who are indifferent to other dogs. Consider, also, attending a well-run good-manners class where a dog in emotional rehab can remain sub-threshold while building trust in his owner’s ability to keep everyone safe around other dogs.

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California.