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The Pros and Cons of Dog Parks

Two dogs running joyfully off-leash.
This is the dog-park dream: Exuberant dogs running and playing with joyous abandon, then coming home with you tired and content. But anyone who has spent much time at a dog park can attest that it’s only sometimes like this; just as often, one can see unhappy, anxious dogs, dogs being targeted by “playground bullies,” and even dog fights.

In recent years, more and more dog training and behavior professionals are speaking out against dog parks – yes, those safely fenced, community-funded spaces where dogs and their humans can get together and have a good time. What’s not to like?

If you ask almost any trainer, she will likely say, “Plenty!” As dog parks have become more common (and, indeed, as dog ownership has been on the rise in the past decade) they have somehow morphed from being something that local dog owners band together and fight to build, to places where few really knowledgeable owners care to take their dogs. It seems everyone has a horror story to tell about “that day at the dog park,” featuring overstimulated dogs running amok, dogs practicing bully behaviors, dog fights, and even dog deaths.

It’s true that all of those horrible things can happen at dog parks, but a lot of good things happen in dog parks, too, especially when they are well-constructed and well-managed, and when park users are smart about bringing appropriate dogs to the park and providing adequate supervision. Dog parks are a lifesaver for the owners of many dogs who need a little extra exercise and outdoor stimulation in order to be able to relax and behave well at home.

So do you take your dog to your local dog park or not? How do you know if you should? Or shouldn’t? Just as with so many other dog training and behavior questions, it depends!

7 Things to Consider About Dog Parks

There are a number of factors that determine whether a dog park is a good choice for your canine companion:

1. How your dog prefers to play.

Does your dog love to play with other dogs? Not all dogs do. Yes, they are a social species; that doesn’t mean they all get along. We humans are also a social species, and we certainly don’t get along with all humans!

If your dog is a confident, social butterfly, she might be a good dog park candidate. If she’s fearful around other dogs, she will be much happier not going to the park. (Consider, too, that her fear will likely deepen with every bad experience.) Some dogs are perfectly content with a small circle of intimate canine friends. Other dogs prefer the company of their human companions over any other canines. Bringing a dog who doesn’t enjoy the company of other dogs into an off-leash playground isn’t fair to your dog or any others who may approach her.

2. Your dog’s play style.

You need some awareness of what sort of play best suits your dog in order to gauge whether a particular park at a particular time of day is likely to provide her with an enjoyable play session or set her up to be traumatized (or traumatize others). Consider what your dog likes to do, and plan accordingly.

For example: Is your dog a fetchaholic? If her preference is to chase balls in a huge open space without being chased or pestered by any other dogs, bringing her to a cramped or crowded park might just set her up to snap at any unwary dog who gets in her way or tries to compete for the ball.

Consider the other typical dog park visitors, too. Does your dog love to play with other rowdy, rough-and-tumble brawlers at the park? That’s great if you can meet up with folks whose dogs enjoy that, too. But if your dog overwhelms other park visitors with his level of energy and arousal, it’s not fair to inflict your dog’s inappropriate play on them. Other dogs (and their owners) will not care that your dog is “just playing” if, while minding their own business, they get bowled over and hurt; they may respond with a dramatic protest and trigger an aggressive retort from the over-aroused roughhouser.

3. How much training your dog has.

To be fair to other park users, and in order to be able to keep your own dog safe, your dog should at least have a dynamite recall so you can call her back to you when you see trouble brewing. A full range of well-trained good manners behaviors is even better!

4. How your local dog park is constructed.

There are dog parks, and then there are dog parks. A well-constructed dog park is several acres or larger, solidly fenced, ideally with amenities that include water, equipment to play on, and varied terrain, such as open fields, creeks, and woods, so dogs have plenty to keep them environmentally engaged, rather than just pestering each other. Parks that are small, overcrowded and boring greatly increase the likelihood of inappropriate canine behavior (fights). Other important park features include separate areas for small and large dogs and double-gated entrances so dogs can’t escape as newcomers arrive.

5. How your local dog park is managed.

Every good dog park needs rules and someone to enforce them.Municipal parks, usually under the auspices of the parks and recreation department, may fall short on management. Rarely is there someone in attendance to deal with conflicts that may arise. City and county dog parks often compete with tennis courts, ball fields, playgrounds, and picnic areas for park staff attention.

Privately owned dog parks are more likely to have staff in attendance to assist in a timely manner with conflict resolution (canine and human) and enforcement of rules. Some parks require registration and issue numbered arm bands that owners must wear while in the park, for more effective reporting and investigation of problems.

6. The way your dog park is maintained.

Dog fights aren’t the only threat to your dog’s safety at a park. Poorly maintained fences and equipment can injure and kill dogs as easily as dog-dog altercations. Grass should be regularly mowed, and needed repairs promptly and routinely made. Make sure your park is getting its fair share of the park-maintenance budget!

7. Your local dog park culture.

This is the human side of things. If most owners are chatting with each other or on cell phones, rather than supervising their dogs’ activities, there are bound to be problems. If owners are oblivious to their dogs’ inappropriate behavior and allow mounting, bullying, and aggression to go uninterrupted, it’s not a healthy place for you and your dog to hang out.

Consider visiting the park on different days and at different times of the day; there may be knowledgeable and more engaged owners gathering at a different time.

Suggested Dog Park Rules
The most successful dog parks have rules – and people who enforce them. Here are some suggested rules for dog parks:

  • Dogs must be currently licensed. This ensures they are also current on rabies vaccination.
  • No babies, toddlers, or small children allowed in the dog park. Communities may set different age limits, but 7 is a reasonable minimum age for children. Smaller, younger children are just too vulnerable to injury even from friendly dogs who get excited.
  • Owners must pick up after their dogs. Always, no excuses, no exceptions. Good parks have well-maintained waste stations and keep poop-bag dispensers well-stocked.
  • No dogs in season. Females in heat don’t belong in dog parks, ever.
  • No aggressive dogs. Dog parks are not the appropriate place for owner to try to modify their dogs’ aggressive behavior. Dogs who have demonstrated aggression to dogs or humans should not be allowed to return to the park.
  • Owners must be attentive to their dogs. Much inappropriate dog park behavior could be avoided if humans were paying attention and intervened before canine behavior escalated out of control.
  • All gear, except for a collar with a quick-release buckle, should be removed from dogs before they enter the park. Harnesses, choke chains, pinch collars, and head halters pose special risks to the dogs wearing them and any dog who might become entangled in them while playing.

Check It Out

If you are confident that your dog is a good dog park candidate, ask some trusted, knowledgeable friends and your favorite canine professionals if they agree. If so, first visit parks in your area without your dog to check out the facilities and culture. Make several trips at various times so you get a real feel for the park and its users. If you like what you see after multiple visits, then you are ready to take your dog for playtime in the park.

Remember to supervise your dog responsibly while you are there, and always be ready to leave if you see things happening that make you or your dog uncomfortable.

DOG PARKS: OVERVIEW

1. Evaluate your dog carefully and honestly before taking her to a dog park.

2. Consider your dog-park choices thoroughly before taking your dog there.

3. Discuss the pros and cons of your area dog parks with your favorite local dog training and behavior professional(s).

4. Consider alternatives to dog parks, such as getting together with other dog owners in your area and creating compatible playgroups that meet in fenced backyards.

How Important is the Digestibility of Dog Food

A young woman considers dog food labels looking at its digestibility.
The digestibility of dog food determines how capable your dog is of receiving nutrients. This depends on how the nutrients are combined in the food.

In my 2014 nutrition book Dog Food Logic, I emphasized (some might say harped upon) the need for pet food companies to provide digestibility information to consumers. It is not a difficult value to determine and most pet food companies already conduct feeding trials that measure this (yet keep the results to themselves). As one of the most basic measures of food quality, digestibility provides essential information that can help dog owners to select the best food for their dog.

What is digestibility and why does it matter? Digestibility reflects a food’s ability to deliver essential nutrients to the dog who eats it. This ultimately affects not only defecation quantity and quality (how much your dog poops and how the poop looks and smells), and a dog’s propensity for flatulence (no explanation needed), but more importantly, a dog’s long-term health and wellness. The graphic on this page summarizes how digestibility is measured using feeding trials with dogs.

It’s that last step, “Provide Results to Consumers,” that is glaringly absent from the dog food scene. But, I harp (again).

Onward. There is good news to tell.

Good vs. Poor Digestibility in Dog Food

The term digestibility coefficient refers to the percentage of a food that the dog absorbs into his or her body during the process of digestion. As a rule of thumb, dry dog foods with digestibility values of 75 percent or less will be of very poor quality, those with values between 75 and 82 percent are classified as moderate in quality, and foods with digestibility values that are higher than 82 percent are of high quality. If you see products with 88 percent or more reported digestibility, you have a rock star. (For a more detailed explanation of dog food digestibility, see Dog Food Logic.)

dog food digestibility infographic

The paradox lies in the fact that while many pet food companies routinely measure the digestibility of their products, they are not required to report this information to the people who buy their foods. Most do not provide this information even when it is directly requested. Digestibility matters (a lot), but we cannot judge foods with information that we do not have.

The good news is that two research studies measuring the digestibility of dog foods formulated with different types of protein sources were recently published by a group of animal nutritionists from the Norwegian University of Life Sciences and the University of Copenhagen in Denmark1,2. The first compared the digestibility of dog foods that used three common animal protein meals, and the second compared the use of fresh chicken meat (aka “chicken first”) with poultry meal as protein sources in a dry food. Because all of the protein ingredients that the researchers examined are frequently found in commercial foods, their results may be helpful to dog owners in their quest for a quality food.

Like me, you may be surprised by what they found:

Lamb, Fish, or Poultry Meal?

In the first study, the investigators compared the protein and overall digestibility of three dry (extruded) dog foods that were formulated containing equivalent amounts of either lamb meal, fish meal, or poultry meal1. Because one of the objectives of their work was to determine if mink provide a suitable model for assessing pet food quality, they tested the foods in growing mink, adult mink, and adult dogs.

Results: As a protein source, lamb meal showed significantly lower values for multiple measures of protein quality and essential amino acid content when compared with both poultry meal and fish meal. Even though all three diets were formulated to provide complete and balanced nutrition, the lamb meal diet was found to be deficient in the essential amino acid methionine when digestibility was taken into account.

Although differences between poultry and fish meals were not as dramatic, poultry meal was of lower quality than fish meal. As a protein source in dog food, fish meal had the highest values on almost all quality measures, including digestibility and essential amino acid content. When tested in adult dogs, the protein digestibility values of the three foods were 71.5 for lamb meal, 80.2 for poultry meal, and 87.0 for fish meal.

Overall, this study suggests that, at least for the sources used in this work, the order of protein quality was lamb meal (poor), poultry meal (moderate), and fish meal (high). Additionally, although the reported level of lamb meal in the diet exceeded the minimum methionine requirement for adult dogs, the actual amount of methionine that was available to the dogs (i.e. was digested) was less than their minimum requirement for this nutrient.

Is Fresh Chicken Better?

The team’s second study is groundbreaking. It’s the first to examine whether or not there is a demonstrated benefit to including “fresh” (frozen, actually) chicken in an extruded, dry dog food. This is important because the promotion of “fresh first” on pet food labels is frequently used as a claim for higher protein quality in the product.

The researchers tested the digestibility and amino acid content of fresh, raw chicken (technically referred to as “raw mechanically separated chicken meat”) before processing (cooking) and then again after it was included in a dry dog food to replace about 25 percent of the product’s poultry meal. Because raw meat has been shown to be more digestible than dry rendered protein meals, it was hypothesized that including raw chicken in the dry food would indeed improve the food’s digestibility by several percentage points. (Note: Because mink had been previously shown to be a suitable model for dogs, adult mink were used to test the diets.)

Results: As expected, when tested before processing, the digestibility of raw chicken meat was significantly higher than that of rendered poultry meal (88.2 percent vs. 80.9 percent, respectively). However, when the raw chicken meat replaced 25 percent of the poultry meal in an extruded dry food, the digestibility of the food was not significantly improved (81.3 vs. 80.3, respectively). In addition, the digestibility of several essential amino acids was actually higher in the food containing only poultry meal than in the food that included the raw chicken meat.

Take Away Points

Wow. The results of these two studies contradict several previously accepted (if never actually proven) dog food edicts. These are:

1. Lamb meal is a high-quality protein source for pet foods. Um, apparently not! The first study found that lamb meal was poorly digested (70.5 percent) and provided inadequate levels of the essential amino acid methionine after digestibility was taken into account.

2. All named species meals are superior to “generic” meals. This refers to the general rule of thumb that dog folks should always choose a food that uses a named animal protein source (such as chicken, turkey, salmon, or lamb) over a generic poultry or fish meal. Specifically, choosing lamb over a poultry or fish meal may not get your dog the quality protein you hoped for.

3. The appearance of a fresh animal protein source first on the pet food label means higher quality (more digestible) protein. Nope again – at least in the case of chicken. While the digestibility of fresh chicken meat was higher than that of poultry meal when tested prior to processing, incorporating fresh chicken (as 25 percent of the protein source!) into an extruded food did not improve digestibility or lead to a higher quality product. The researchers speculated that this may have occurred because raw meat ingredients could be more susceptible to damage caused by the heating and drying processes of extrusion than are rendered protein meals.

Regardless of the cause, it appears that “Chicken First” may not be the marketing Holy Grail that pet food companies are promoting it to be.

Up On My Soapbox

This is great information for dog folks to have. Many thanks to this team of researchers, among others (all notably at universities, not from pet food companies) who have been publishing scientific evidence regarding the protein quality, amino acid content, digestibility, and safety of various dog food ingredients and products. We are grateful to them all and hope to see more of these types of studies.

These studies provide needed and essential information, but do not (yet) go so far as to provide us answers to the most important question: “What is the digestibility of the brand of food that I am feeding to my dog?”

I have said this many times before and will say it again:

If pet food manufacturers insist on telling us that their brands of food provide “complete and balanced nutrition” throughout our dogs’ lives, then providing a few very simple measures of the quality of those foods is not too much to ask!

The researchers of these papers agree. Their first paper’s abstract ends, “Furthermore, the study showed that to ensure nutritional adequacy of dog food and to be able to compare protein quality of dog foods, information of amino acid composition, and digestibility is crucial.” (Emphais mine.)

So, pet food manufacturers:Are you listening? Time to step up and provide this information on your labels, websites, or at the very least, in response to direct inquiries. In the meantime, I will continue to report and promote research studies that provide us with the information that we need to choose smart for our dogs.

Cited Studies

1. Tjernsbekk MT, Tauson AH, Matthiesen CF, Ahlostrom O. “Protein and amino acid bioavailability of extruded dog food with protein meals of different quality using growing mink (Neovison vison) as a model.” Journal of Animal Science 2016;
94:3796-3804.

2. Tjernsbekk MT, Tauson AH, Kraugerus OF, Ahlstrom O. “Raw, mechanically separated chicken meat and salmon protein hydrolysate as protein sources in extruded dog food: Effect on protein and amino acid digestibility.” Animal Physiology and Animal Nutrition 2017; 101:323-331.2.

Linda P. Case is the owner of AutumnGold Consulting & Dog Training Center in Mahomet, Illinois. She is also the author of Dog Food Logic, and writes The Science Dog blog.

The Best Pet Steps for Senior Dogs

2

I feel so fortunate to watch our Australian Shepherd Cody aging into a sensational senior dog. Cody developed serious health issues when he was only two years old. Because of autoimmune issues and now significant arthritis in his front elbows, at 11 years or so, he’s on a pain management regime prescribed by a veterinary specialist. Thankfully, he’s getting along quite well and most days seems to be mostly pain-free.

Recently, though, something happened that caused me to think he could benefit from the use of dog steps. Cody has always enjoyed sleeping on the bed in the guest room at night. Usually, when he first hears us stir, he hops down off the guest bed and jumps into bed with the rest of the family (two humans, another dog, and two cats – yes, a full bed!)

A couple of months ago, his behavior pattern changed. Instead of hearing his paws hit the floor, I heard soft whining. I went to see what was up and found him reticent to jump off the bed. Anyone who has had knee pain understands that stepping down is more painful than stepping up. True for Cody, too, so what to do but pick him up and put him on the floor.

Over the next few weeks there were days when he’d jump down quickly and join us in bed, and other days when he’d whine. Thankfully, I’m still able to lift his 48-pound body, though that repetitive movement over time probably isn’t good for my own body! I decided it was time to consider a set of dog steps that could make it more comfortable for him to move off the bed. Onward with the research!

Pet Stairs Compared

Rating Product Price Sizes Weight/Weight Limit

PET STUDIO RAMPSTEPS
Available online from Overstock.com, Amazon.com, Chewy.com, Wayfair.com, and more.
$190 to $207 (best price for us was from Amazon) Two steps:
26″ L x 17 ½” W x 13″ H

Three steps:
40″ L x 17 ½” W x 19 ½” H

Weighs: 12 lbs

Weight Limit:
Up to 130 lbs

Can be used as stairs or as a ramp with easy conversion from one to the other. Comes assembled, so time and frustration saving. Light enough to easily move. Folds flat for storage.

PETSFIT WOODEN PET STAIRS
Manufacturer: petsfit.us
Available from: Petsfit.us (two-step only), Amazon, Petsbeddepot.com
$90 to $180 (best price for us was from Amazon) Two steps:
22″ L x 17″ W x 14″ H

Three steps:
22″ L x 17″ W x 20″ H

Weighs:
Two steps: 17.6 lbs
Three steps: 22.6 lbs

Weight Limit:
Up to 150 lbs

Assembly is easier with two people. Side rails on the steps may be preferable for some dogs. Light enough to easily move.

PREMIER PET STEPS RAISED PANEL
Manufacturer: Premier Pet Steps
Available online from amazon.com, wayfair.com and petfrenzy.com
Two steps: $88-$115
Three steps: $125-$167
Four steps: $187-$275 (best price for us was from Wayfair)
Two steps:
15″ W x 12″ H x 16″ L

Three steps:
15 ½” W x 16″ H x 23″ L

Four steps:
15 ½” W x 23″ H x 27″ L

Weighs:
Two steps: 17 lbs
Three steps: 27 lbs
Four steps: 38 lbs

Weight Limit:
Up to 300 lbs

All three sizes have options for solid tread (wood), non-slip tread or carpet. No assembly required. Made in the U.S.

SOLID SIDE PET STEPS for Large Dogs
Manufacturer: Help Your Pets
Available from: Help Your Pets
Three steps: $160
Four steps: $200
Three steps:
24″ L x 17″ W x 19″ H

Four steps:
33″ L x 17″ W x 25″ H

Weighs:
Three steps: 35 lbs
Four steps: 45 lbs

Weight Limit:
Up to 250 lbs

No assembly required. Very durable and stable, though quite heavy to move. Fully carpeted, even sides and back. Seven carpet colors available. Non-stick pads available for an additional $15. Company offers wheels and handle if requested. Other models available for small dogs. Made in the U.S.

PET GEAR EASY STEP III, Extra Wide
Manufacturer: Pet Gear, Inc.
Available from Amazon.com, Chewy.com, Petco, Petsmart, Kohls, Wayfair.com, WalMart, Target
$57 to $115
(best price for us was from Chewy)
One step:
22″ W x 20″ H x 10″ L

Two steps:
22″ W x 20″ H x 16″ L

Three steps:
25 W” x 20″ H x 23″ L

Weighs:
One step: 10.5 lbs
Two steps: 10 lbs
Three steps: 14 lbs

Weight Limit:
One step: up to 175 lbs
Two steps: up to 200 lbs
Three steps: up to 200 lbs

Nice wide steps, but rise on the first step difficult for two test dogs. Available in three sizes with removable and washable carpet tread. Rubber grippers on bottom to help secure the steps. Snaps together easily without tools.

Whole Dog Journal‘s Pet Step Rating Criteria

I weighed the following factors when trying to select pet stairs for Cody:

Height: Your criteria may be different than mine based on the size of your dog and the height of your bed. With a wide variety of dog steps available today, finding what you need is unlikely to be a problem. Based on the height of our bed, we needed steps that were in the range of 22 to 27 inches, which, for most manufactured steps, was a three- or four-step model.

Weight: It was important to have a set of steps that could easily be moved for cleaning, vacuuming, and ease in making the bed.

Safety: The steps needed to support a medium to large dog and have a non-slip surface that furry paws could easily negotiate. We also wanted rubber grippers or some other non-slip option on the bottom.

Aesthetics: Although beauty and luxury weren’t essential for me, I did want something that was reasonably attractive and fit with our relaxed, eclectic décor.

Ease of Assembly: I have to admit, I didn’t even think about putting the steps together, so assembly didn’t cross my mind. If that matters to you, I’ve included assembly information for each set of steps.

Cost: This wasn’t really a factor as I wanted the best product available and was willing to pay for it. Spare nothing for the dog! In my experience, bargain prices tend to mean low-quality manufacturing.

The Best (4-Paw) Pet Steps

The two sets of steps that rose to the top did so because all four test subjects (Cody and Willow, our two Australian Shepherds; Trixie, a Jack Russell Terrier; and Zak, a Beagle mix) were able to easily negotiate the steps. They were also light enough to easily move and were aesthetically pleasing.

Top Pick: PetStudio RampStairs


This was my favorite and also gets four paws up from Cody. The RampStairs (available in two and three steps) came fully assembled, so all I needed to do was pop them out of the box, raise the two front legs, and voila! They were ready to use.

The steps easily convert into a ramp, which could be preferable for some dogs. Cody preferred the steps, as he wasn’t easily able to negotiate the ramp and even slipped a little when coming down, although the Jack Russell moved up and down the ramp with ease.

I particularly liked the contemporary look of the RampStairs. The pine frame has a mahogany finish and steps are covered with a sand-colored, easy-to-clean carpet. The fact that the legs of the steps fold down and tuck under (handle and steps lock in place) make it easy to move and store them (they would easily fit under a bed).

#2 Pick: Petsfit Wooden Pet Stairs

Petsfit Wooden Pet Stairs
This lightweight, contemporary looking set comes in two- and three-step options. The Petsfit steps come in either a white or black finish. The wood is medium density fiberboard, so they’re not solid pine; however, they seem quite durable.

The steps have solid sides, which means that when the dog goes up or down, he’s unable to see the drop-off on each side. Some dogs likely find this comforting – like having a railing on stairs for humans.

While the product literature says these are easy to assemble, having a second person on hand to help out was handy: one person to hold the parts together while the other turns the screws. All four of the dogs were able to easily negotiate this set of steps.

#3 Pick: Premier Pet Steps Raised Panel Three-Step Stairs


No assembly required for this set of stable and durable steps made of Appalachian Red Oak. Since this product is solid wood, it’s a bit heavier than our top two picks, though still quite easy to move around.

The company states that the finish is sealed well so that it’s scratch- and water-resistant, and that seemed accurate. You have the choice of a stain-resistant carpet or non-slip marine covering, though I don’t know what that material is made of. I was frustrated that there was no phone number listed on the company’s website and the contact form on the site didn’t work, so I couldn’t confirm the material.

These also come in two- and four-step options. All in all, this is a nice set of steps with a country-style look. Of our four test subject dogs, three negotiated the steps with relative ease.

Next Best Pet Stairs: 3-Paw Runners Up

I had minor issues with these products, but they may suit people and dogs with needs and taste different from mine just fine!

Solid Side Pet Steps for Large Dogs

Solid Side Pet Steps
The manufacturer bills these steps as heavy duty and they certainly are! So much so that they’re difficult to pick up and move around. The website says, “Keep in mind, we build these steps to last a very long time, which makes them heavy, and wheels and a handle may be required.” The company does offer optional wheels and handle if requested. I was able to move them by pushing and pulling, but I needed help to move them to another room. Heavy does mean stable and durable, so if you don’t need to move them often, weight shouldn’t be an issue.

The material used is half-inch cabinet-grade wood, and the steps are covered with olefin carpet (seven carpet colors available), which should wear well and clean easily.

Some dogs might feel more comfortable with the solid sides. The entire set is covered in carpet (except the bottom), so there’s no bare wood to get scratched, and the carpet would provide cushioning should you or your pet bump into it. Three of our four test dogs easily negotiated this set. Ignore the pet articles on the website, though, as the advice is badly outdated.

Pet Gear, Easy Step III, Extra Wide

Pet Gear Easy Step III
This was the first set of steps I looked at online and thought would work well for Cody – but they were his least favorite! While they’re wider than the others we tested, the rise to the first step is higher and neither Cody nor Zak (the Beagle-mix) were comfortable getting up these steps. The step platform, slanted slightly toward the floor, was also problematic for Cody.

I did love the light weight of these steps and was easily able to pick them up with one hand. Assembly was effortless, as the plastic parts snap together easily with no tools needed. The carpet tread is attached with Velcro, so it’s removable and washable, which is a nice feature. The Easy Step also comes in a one- and two-step option.

When Dogs Avoid Their Steps

After all this, interestingly, my search for steps to help Cody was, as yet, unsuccessful. While the Pet Studio RampStairs were his favorite (and mine), and he could negotiate them quite well, he still avoids any step option by either jumping over or beside them. My guess is that he prefers to jump off the bed once rather than amble down three or four steps because each step down causes pain.

When I discussed this with Cody’s veterinary pain specialist, Dr. Tami Shearer of Western Carolina Animal Pain Clinic in Sylva, North Carolina, she said, “In my opinion, jumping down results in repetitive or jarring injury to the forelimbs and cervical spine, so that’s where I see the most need for inclines or steps, for prevention. Most available steps are so short and steep and most ramps are too narrow, too short, and too steep for most larger dogs to comfortably use them.”

If you’re tempted to try steps for your senior dog, I suggest borrowing a set first. However, if you have a young dog who repetitively jumps in and out of a car or SUV, or on and off of a bed, then purchasing a set of steps and training your dog to use them is likely the best way to prevent forelimb problems later in life.

How to Train Your Dog to Negotiate Steps

If your dog has never negotiated any kind of steps, the mere sight of the new set of steps could cause a “What the heck is this thing?” response. Place the steps against a wall in the common living area of your home – somewhere your dog already enjoys spending time with you. You can play games with your dog near the steps, have a fun training session near the steps, let your dog enjoy a stuffed Kong beside them, and even feed meals from a bowl on or near the steps. Do this for a few days until your dog is fully comfortable being near and passing the steps.

I use a clicker as a marker signal, though you can also use a short word such as “Yes!” to mark the behavior, which will then be reinforced with a piece of food.

Place the steps where your dog will need to use them. Get some pea-sized pieces of yummy food that your dog really loves, such as baked chicken or cheese. I like to use a food the dog doesn’t get on a daily basis. Take a piece of food, put it at your dog’s nose and lure him to (not on) the first step, mark, and reinforce. Take another piece of food and toss it slightly away from the steps (you’re resetting the dog to return to the steps). Because you’re sitting or standing near the steps and you just fed him at the step, he’ll likely quickly return to you.

Next, slowly use the food lure (right at your dog’s nose) to lure his front paws up onto the first step. If even one of his paws touches the first step, mark and reinforce. Continue luring until you get both front paws up on the first step. Mark and reinforce. And be sure to praise your dog, too! I like to repeat this step several times until the dog is easily putting two paws up on that first step.

Now help your dog get his back paws up on the step. Dogs don’t always easily learn to use each back foot independently, so take your time. Go as slow as necessary for your dog to feel comfortable and safe.

Once he has two front paws on the first step, take another piece of food and very slowly begin to lure your dog to the second step. As his front paws move up and onto that second step, it will likely cause him to stretch to reach for the food (keep it right at his nose). When he picks up one hind foot, mark and reinforce. When he gets the second hind foot up on the second step, mark and reinforce. Continue slowly luring him up each successive step until he reaches the bed or sofa. Hooray! You’ve successfully tackled the “up”!

Going down can be more challenging for dogs. Again, move at your own dog’s pace. You’re going to repeat the same process of luring, marking, and reinforcing your dog for successful negotiation of each step.

If he bypasses the steps by jumping down and around them, no worries. Just lure him back up the steps, then begin again to lure him down. If you move at his pace, your efforts will likely be met with success. If he bypasses the steps several times in a row, end the training session and start again several hours later or even the next day. Each dog gains confidence at a different pace and there’s no need to rush the process.

For more help training your senior dog to use the pet stairs, read “Training an Older Dog,” by Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA.

Lisa Lyle Waggoner is a CPDT-KA, a CSAT (Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer), a Pat Miller Certified Trainer Level 2, faculty for the Victoria Stilwell Academy of Dog Training and Behavior, a dog*tec Certified Professional Dog Walker, and the founder of Cold Nose College in Murphy, North Carolina.

The Emotional Lives of Dogs

Dog on leash

Traditionally, dog trainers have spent little or no energy considering a dog’s emotions when training or changing behavior; indeed, trainers or owners who did talk about emotions were often ridiculed and accused of anthropomorphizing (the process of projecting our emotional processes on animals with no consideration for the animal’s capacity or the reality of the situation). Instead, dog trainers have focused almost exclusively on how they could change a dog’s behavior through the principles of operant conditioning. Training was a quid pro quo equation based on the idea that dogs will maximize their well being. In other words, dogs will do things that benefit them and avoid things that harm them. If a dog’s behavior gets him things that he likes, then he will do more of those behaviors. And if a dog’s behavior causes things he doesn’t like to happen, then he will do less of those behaviors.

That approach makes training sound simple and logical. If you give the dog treats for sitting nicely and push him down when he jumps up, then we should see more sitting. Approached in this manner, it would be simple to list all the random problem behaviors encountered by dog owners and then determine appropriate rewards for good behavior and appropriate punishments for bad behavior. All of the problems will go away and there would be happiness. Right?

Well, no – for two reasons. First of all, operant conditioning assumes a rational participant, and when emotions come into play, reason often goes out the window.

And second, strong emotions often cause specific behaviors to happen, not by choice, but as a side effect of the emotion itself. For example, the emotion of fear often makes dogs pace back and forth, or bark, or pant and whine excessively, or jump up on their owners, clinging to them and looking for security. Because pushing them off can exacerbate their feelings of fear and clinginess, this “solution” for jumping can actually make the jumping behavior even more pronounced. Worse, it can stop the jumping, only for it to change to another problematic behavior like submissively urinating. Recognizing that the emotion of fear is driving the behavior of jumping up should dramatically change how we handle the problem behavior.

How Emotions Impact Dogs’ Behavior

When emotions are driving behavior, the dog cannot simply choose to stop doing the behavior without ramifications. The reality is that animals (including people) are quite often not rational participants. If that sounds counterintuitive to you and you believe that behavior is largely chosen rather than the result of emotional experiences, perhaps a few examples will help you understand.

The police call and tell you that your son has been in a serious automobile accident and is in the hospital. At that moment, are you in a position to learn new things? Could you choose the behavior of sitting quietly at the table, reading a newspaper while you wait for more information? Would you be able to play a game of chess with your spouse? Of course not! Your fear for your son dominates all rational behavior and overwhelms your capacity for conscious thought.

Instead, it’s likely that you will pace, or not move at all because you’re frozen in fear. You will not be able to listen to conversations that are not about your son because your emotions will not allow it. You may cry (not by choice but as a human expression of fear), you may scream, or you may appear catatonic. But you cannot choose not to be afraid because you do not choose your emotions; you simply experience them, even when you would rather not.

Let’s consider a few more emotions.

You discover that your spouse has been having an affair and you’re angry beyond reason. Although you had planned to spend the evening catching up on some work that you brought home from the office, there is no chance for that now. Every time you pick up the folders, your mind immediately goes back to the reality of your private life and you drop the papers to return to angry pacing, your fists balled up and your breathing heavy and erratic.

You cannot work. You cannot learn. You can barely think, let alone make any decisions or concentrate. You know that if you see your spouse at that moment, you will react badly out of pure rage. You leave the house so you will not be home when he gets there, allowing you to avoid the situation rather than having to show self control that you don’t think you can muster.

Over time, as you come to accept your spouse’s infidelity, you find that your anger is being replaced by a deep sadness that you cannot shake. And yet you find yourself unable to concentrate, to work, or even to do the most basic of life functions like eating and sleeping. You are becoming depressed and once again your emotions are controlling your behavior, very much against your will. You want your rational life back but you can’t seem to get there.

Even Happy Emotions Interfere with Learning

The above examples focus on unhappy emotions like fear, rage, and sadness. So maybe negative emotions can severely impact learning and our choice of behaviors, but how about happy emotions? Could those possibly impact our outward expression of our behavior? Yes, they can.

Let’s say you just won the lottery – 10 million dollars! You are excited! Beside yourself with joy! You cannot wait to tell all your friends! But first, you’ll need to complete some paperwork and answer some questions. What is your social security number? How much did you claim on last year’s tax return? Do you want to take the money as a lump sum or over twenty years? You find yourself struggling to participate in this very important interview. Heck, you can barely remember your own name, let alone your social security number or the definition of an annuity.

Fortunately, the lottery secretary has seen this before, so she gives you lots of time to calm down; indeed, she suggests that you go get a friend to help you because she’s pretty sure you’ll get almost everything wrong if you try to do the interview alone. So while your friend writes down a list of required documents and decisions to be made, you run around the house, occasionally letting out screams of excitement and leaping around, looking a lot like a three-year-old on Christmas morning. You may be experiencing a wonderful emotion for a wonderful reason, but you’re not functioning well because strong emotions block rational thought.

stressful dog walks

Examples of Emotional Interference in Dogs

Now let’s consider our dogs.

A large and aggressive dog lunges towards your dog at dog training school. Your dog is not physically injured, but he is absolutely terrified by the encounter. He can’t stop looking where the dog had been standing. Even though he had been doing fine in his training up until this point, now he simply stands catatonic in the middle of the room.

He is not in a position to learn because he does not feel safe. More so, he cannot simply choose to feel better any more than you can, even when he realizes that the other dog is no longer present. From the handler’s point of view, the threat is gone, so the handler may well expect the dog to get on with his training. But in the same way that a human who is almost attacked on the street cannot simply move on after the police come and arrest the person, your dog cannot simply move on either. His emotions must be processed before rational thought can take over again. How long that takes is a function of the animal experiencing them, not the desires of the owner.

How about a happy emotion like joy? Does that emotion also block rational thought when our dogs experience it? Yes.

Your dog was just reunited with you after two weeks in a boarding kennel. He is overjoyed to see you again and can’t stop jumping up on you with happiness! In fact, he is so excited that he can’t see how irritated you are becoming about his muddy pawprints on your clothes. Now you’re both under the influence of emotions: your dog is happy to be reunited with you, and you’re frustrated because your clothes are getting dirty. At that moment, it’s likely that neither one of you is going to make very good decisions.

When Emotions Fuel Our Dogs’ Learning

Emotions don’t always prevent a dog from learning. Sometimes, your dog’s emotions may actually set him up for a great learning situation. For example, let’s say that your dog is left alone all day long with nothing to do. He is bored and desperately looking for something to do, so he starts to dig the dirt out of your houseplants. Later, he teaches himself how to climb up your pantry shelves to where you keep the dog biscuits.

This dog is in a position to learn – in fact, learning solves the feeling of boredom – but you’re not there to teach him something useful. So instead, he learns about wrecking your house and stealing dog biscuits. In this case, the feeling of boredom, and your dog’s desire to eliminate that feeling, leads to problematic learning.

In all of these examples, both human and canine, how the individual is feeling is the driving force behind the expressed behavior. Since we do not choose what we feel at any given time, we’re stuck with our emotions, whether we like them or not! And since strong emotions cause behavior to happen – whether we like those behaviors or not – we’re stuck with them, too. If you choose to ignore the emotions and focus solely on the behaviors, you’re likely to get nowhere in your attempts to create change. Worse yet, you might actually exacerbate the problem.

The fearful dog may try to run away and refuse to come back, irritating the owner who knows that the aggressive dog left the dog school an hour ago. The excited, happy-to-see-you dog can’t settle down! And the bored dog is wrecking your house. In all of these examples, the solution lies in addressing the emotion, not the behavior. Solve the emotion and you solve the behavior.

When an animal is in a state of emotional overload, we say that the dog is “over threshold.” The dog’s emotions are so great that the dog can no longer function effectively. In short, the dog cannot learn very well at that time. When a dog is over threshold, operant conditioning works very poorly because the dog is not rational at all. Only when a dog is “under threshold” is he capable of conscious thought, and only then can training take hold.

Adults, Pre-Verbal Children, and Dogs

In the above human examples of strong emotion, we discussed adults who have learned how to moderate their emotions, accept the realities of day-to-day existence, and find ways to cooperate even when they don’t want to. Because of this experience, adults are not likely to be completely overwhelmed with emotion very often. So how do these examples change when we talk about a two-year-old child instead?

As every parent knows, toddlers experience (and express) their emotions intensely and frequently. Everything is new and overwhelming to the toddler, and as a result, they have neither the developmental capacity nor the motivation to modify their emotional expression. Toddlers are routinely supervised because we know that under the influence of strong emotions, they will make really bad decisions like running out into the street after a ball, lashing out and hitting people, or grabbing attractive but dangerous items. In fact, we manage their behavior by holding their hands when we are walking on a busy street, or we avoid the situation altogether until the child is older and more able to stay reliably “under threshold.”

And your dog? Well, research into the cognitive capabilities of dogs shows that dogs are roughly equivalent to a two-year-old child. You can assume that your dog’s capacity for controlling his behavior is on par with that of a toddler.

Yes, your dog can be trained to perform specific behaviors (come when called, stay, wait at the door, toilet outside). And yes, your dog can also learn not to perform other behaviors (digging in your garden, barking in his crate, pulling on leash). However, you’ll find that this training goes a lot better when the dog is not under the influence of overwhelming emotions that block effective learning. And, like with a two-year-old child, there is also a place for recognizing when your expectations are not reasonable, making management the most logical solution. This is why we leash our dogs instead of relying on training when we walk them near busy roads.

The Ideal Emotional State for Learning

Does this mean we want to work with dogs who are devoid of emotion, staring vacantly into space? Absolutely not! We want to train a dog who is engaged with us! We want to train a dog who is happy, alert, focused, and motivated by whatever rewards we might have to offer. Dogs, like people, are curious and want to learn! We want a dog who is emotionally ready, willing, and able to learn!

fun dog training

When You Ignore Your Dog’s Emotions

There are two significant effects of ignoring a dog’s emotional state. First, if the problem behavior is a direct result of the emotional state, then attempting to address the behavior directly without addressing the underlying emotion will create new problems.

For example, if your dog is afraid to go for a walk because of the dogs who lunge and bark at him from behind their fences, you could attach the leash before you leave the house so that he has no choice but to come along. Now what happens? Well, after a few days, you may find that when you call him to attach the leash, he’s nowhere to be found. Now you have two problems: a dog who is afraid to be walked, and a dog who will not come when called.

If you persist, trap him in the corner, attach the leash, and pull him out the door, then what? The next time you trap him in the corner and reach for his collar, he may well pee on your floor or snap at your hand. Now you’re up to three problems. How many problems do you plan to create before you simply accept that your dog is fearful on his walk and address the root emotional problem?

The second significant effect of ignoring your dog’s emotional state is that you’ll find that training is slower and more laborious than it needs to be. Dogs who are comfortable, engaged, and not under the influence of significant emotions learn very quickly because they can concentrate on what you are doing together. Dogs who are fearful, overly excited, angry, or experiencing any other overwhelming emotions do not retain information well because they can’t concentrate on learning. A simple recall cue that would take a confident and engaged dog two days to learn now takes two weeks, creating a lot of frustration for both the dog and the handler, and eroding the pleasure that you both should experience during training.

Now learn about your dog’s body language, and how you can learn more about what emotions your dog is feeling!

Editor’s Note

Denise Fenzi is the founder and head trainer at the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports. Denise has competed in a wide range of dog sports, titling dogs in obedience (AKC and UKC), tracking (AKC and schutzhund), schutzhund (USA), mondioring (MRSA), herding (AKC), conformation (AKC), and agility (AKC). Although Denise has found success as a competitor, her passion lies in training dogs – and teaching people how to train their dogs. To that end, she’s written a number of books on dog training, including a series on dog sports skills (co-authored by Deborah Jones, PhD).

The book we have excerpted here is Fenzi’s newest title aimed exclusively at pet dog owners and pet dog trainers. We are grateful for the opportunity to share its first chapter here. If you are interested in purchasing this or any other of Fenzi’s books, visit her website. – Nancy Kerns

Denise Fenzi is the founder of Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to the most current and progressive training methods for competitive dog sports.

When You Break Your Foster Dog’s Heart

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Usually, when I foster, I choose a smart and cute wayward adolescent who needs some training and guidance, and I actively participate in the search for an appropriate home for the dog, and then provide guidance and advice to the new owner. Or, I foster a litter of puppies who are going to be adopted lickety-split. Either way, I usually feel great about the whole thing – getting to help a dog become more likely to succeed in his or her happy new home. Today, though, I’m sort of miserable and sad.

As you may have read here before, my most recent fostering project is a heartworm-positive mama hound and her seven puppies. The puppies, as ever, are going to fly off the shelves – that is, they are certain to elicit an ample number of applications from the website of the coonhound rescue responsible for taking on the whole mess and finding the family appropriate homes.  But the mama – who is going to take the mother hound?

I did not particularly enjoy having the mama hound at first. She was so emaciated and neglected when she arrived, 10-day-old puppies in tow, that it was understandable that she was rather protective of her food. I had to make sure no other dogs were anywhere in the vicinity of her food – not even her own puppies, once they began crawling around. She would get a little harsh in guarding her meals from them, and even taking over their food from them, if she got a chance.

It was obvious to me that she has received very little handling and training. If you snapped a leash on her collar, and pulled on the leash (either to prevent her from going somewhere she wanted to go, like back into the kitchen to eat the puppies’ food, or to get her to go somewhere she didn’t want to go, like outside to eat her own food), she would just sort of sink to the ground, the ultimate in passive, uncomprehending resistance. We made headway only when I armed myself with my all-time favorite, most powerful, not-at-all-secret dog-training tool: Stella and Chewy’s Chicken Meal Mixers, which I have been using in copious amounts to lure Mama in and out of the house, to reward her for pottying outside on cue, and to follow me and the leash.

Early on, Mama seemed to have near zero personality. That was undoubtedly a symptom of deep stress and anxiety – from being starved, lost or abandoned, picked up as stray, being held in a shelter long enough to have her puppies there, and then being transported to the house where I have my office. She was just very undemonstrative; she didn’t wag her tail or change expression when spoken to or petted. The only clue we had that she actually did like attention was that if you sat in her presence, she would come and stand very close to you; she liked to put her face very near your face – a quite uncomfortable sensation with a dog who has no expression, and isn’t wagging her tail or trying to lick you. She would just approach, stand very close, and hold very still – odd.

Very slowly, she grew more and more comfortable with me and the tenant who rents a room in my office/house. It took her a couple weeks to seem to realize we were keeping her and her puppies safe from the other dog who lives here (the tenant’s dog) and my dogs (who come with me to work), and that there was more than enough food to go around. (Thank goodness, I had just completed the November issue, which contained WDJ’s canned food review, so I had tons of delicious, nutritious food on hand to feed her and the babies.)

She had been here for about three weeks when she first wagged her tail – when I praised her enthusiastically for going potty. She finished, and then put on a submissive grin and trotted toward me wagging her tail, looking for the treat she now understood would be forthcoming, and why. The lines of trust and communication had opened! I actually cried as I fed and made a fuss over her – it was our Helen Keller moment.

In the past couple of weeks, she’s gotten more and more demonstrative, wagging her tail and showing more expression on her face when spoken to. She also started to play with the puppies’ toys – something she didn’t do at first, even when my two-year-old dog Woody tried to engage her in play, by grabbing a puppy toy and shaking it in front of her, then darting away. It was as if for weeks and weeks she didn’t even see the toys, and then suddenly, there they were (even though the toys were there the whole time). Any chance she got, she would steal the puppies’ toys one by one, and hide them under the bamboo in the back yard. Several times a day, I had to go retrieve all the toys and redistribute them to the pups. Darn it! I’ve started to like this dog.

All of this explains why I got so weepy yesterday, when it was time to take her to the

breed rescue’s Western-region coordinator, who runs a dog daycare and boarding facility. Mama Hound is going to stay there while she undergoes treatment for her heartworm infection and gets spayed, and then she will go up for adoption. It’s a nice facility run by a superstar of dog rescue! But when we walked into the facility and she heard and smelled lots of other dogs what I saw on Mama’s face was confusion. She got that shut-down look on her face, and started to do that “go limp,” passively resistant thing again. Clearly, she knew her circumstances were changed again – and the recognition that I broke her trust just broke my heart. I had to keep hiding my face in her coat.

My friend the coonhound-rescue-hero laughed in a kindly way at my tears. She said, “I don’t cry anymore because I know that this is another step along their journey, and things are just going to get better and better in her life.” I get that, but it’s a rationalization that humans can’t possibly make to the dog who only knows what she sees in front of her: “I’m getting ditched again.” UGH.

But I can’t keep her for the next few months as she goes through treatment. I have my hands too full as it is, with the now-very active puppies, who will be getting adopted one by one, and moving, my next challenge. And I would far prefer her to find a permanent home after treatment, rather than play third wheel in my family as a foster dog again. I’m hoping she finds a forever-home with someone who wants a pretty, calm, affectionate, playful hound. If you know someone who is looking for a sweet, quiet companion, won’t you point them to the coonhound rescue site? 

Quiet Time

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Unless something blows up in the next few days, there will be a new editorial office address listed in the masthead, to the immediate left, in the next issue of WDJ. My husband and I are in the last days of escrow on a new house on the outskirts of town, just a few miles away from where we live now.

whole dog journal editor nancy kerns

We have been living in the historic downtown of this Gold Rush-era town for the past 11 years. There have been some wonderful benefits of living in an old neighborhood in a cute, old small town. I could go out my front gate with my dogs and walk four blocks to a paved trail alongside the Feather River, which flows right through town. The historic center of Oroville is a bit like a ghost town at night; there are no businesses, not even bars, that stay open past 10 p.m., so on hot summer nights, the dogs could safely walk with me off-leash downtown. When I’m on deadline and don’t have time to take Woody out for a miles-long hike to wear him down, I often walk him at night to a grassy area that surrounds some government buildings downtown (two blocks from my house!), to play fetch with a glow-in-the-dark ball.

But living downtown has also had some drawbacks. From the day we adopted Otto from our local shelter nine years ago, it’s been a challenge to keep him from barking to alert us to every UPS, FedEx, and U.S. Postal Service truck that drives within a block of our house. And since we live across from the town’s YMCA, people park in front of our house to attend classes or swim in the Y’s pool. When they get in and out of their cars, Otto thinks he should let us know this, too. The main post office in town is on the next block, and lots of apparently suspicious-looking people walk by our house every day to pick up their mail. Otto does not let this go unremarked.

If I’m in the same room or part of the yard as Otto when these “alarming” events happen, Otto will usually just let out a soft growl; then he will look at me, to make sure I’m aware that he’s done his job. I acknowledge this; “Thanks, buddy. That’s enough.” And that’s it. But if Otto is alone outside when, in his view, any of these potential home-invaders skulk by, he lets out a full-throated “ARROOOOOOOO!” and follows up with some ferocious barking.

Before you feel too sorry for my neighbors, you should know that there is a Dachshund next door who launches into fits of shrieky barking any time we open our front gate, or upon any appearance by any human or non-human animal (dogs, cats, chickens) in our own backyard. And the neighbors across the back fence have two dogs that live outdoors 24/7/365; they can hardly be blamed for their boredom-based barking.

Anyway, wish us luck. If all goes as planned, we and our dogs will be sleeping through the night for the first time in years!

Download the Full January 2018 Issue PDF

  • Pros & Cons of Dog Parks
  • Digestibility Matters
  • A Step Up For Senior Dogs
  • Second That Emotion?
  • 2018 Gear Of The Year
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Dog Harness vs Collar: Which is Better?

You may see a lot more dogs on the street today wearing harnesses rather than having their leashes attached to collars. Are harnesses safer for dogs than collars? Should you abandon your dog’s traditional collar altogether?

The fact is, your dog should have both a collar and a harness for the most effective training. The harness is the appropriate place for attaching your leash – it keeps your dog securely connected to you while eliminating strain on their neck. Harnesses are hard for dogs to slip out of, and they increase the walker’s control over where the dog moves.

small dog in harness
© Victoria L. Almgren | Dreamstime

Whole Dog Journal believes collars are a great way to keep licenses and other identification tags on dogs – not necessarily for attaching a leash. For walking, we prefer a well-fitting harness.

Read more: The Safest Types of Dog Collars (and the Most Dangerous)

There are many types of collars AND harnesses on the market, and some serve specific purposes. The front-clip harness, for example, is a useful tool for a dog who pulls on the leash during walks. Head halters can be helpful for helping control a dog who pulls hard and is being handled by a physically frail or small person, but many dogs find them highly aversive. In this case, a consultation with an experienced, positive-reinforcement-based trainer would be advisable.

dog wearing both collar and harness
© Brett Critchley | Dreamstime

Both dog collars and harnesses should always be taken off during any play – whether with other dogs, or roughhousing in the backyard. Collars are known to get caught on things, and could seriously hurt your dog. Harnesses, too, should be taken off in play. They may not strangle your dog, but they can still catch on objects or entangle your dog’s playmate.

Comparing Harnesses vs Collars

Pros Cons
Dog Collars Collars are a comfortable and secure way to keep ID tags and licenses on the dog at all times. Some dogs may become experts at ducking out of their collars; broad-necked or small-headed dogs have a higher risk of escape.
Most dogs do not seem to notice wearing a simple flat-buckle collar (WDJ recommends fitting collars with room for 2 fingers between), whether on-leash or off. Collars can be hard to fit properly to super tiny dogs.
Collars come in a huge variety of types and materials; some kinds of dog collars serve specific needs, like for duckers or more safety. Collars are known to cause thyroid and/or trachea damage to dogs who pull
Some collars detach under generalized pressure, eliminating the risk of suffocation in an accident. It is possible for collars to get caught on objects during play or in a dog fight, and may injure or suffocate the dog wearing it; collars are also known to get caught in the jaws of other dogs during rough play.
Dog Harnesses Harnesses create less pull-stress on both the dog and human during leashed walks. Harnesses should still always be removed while the dog is inside, or playing with other dogs.
Front-clip harnesses have shown to be most effective when training dogs not to pull on their leashes. Harnesses can chafe skin around a dogs’ “elbows” if worn excessively.
Dog harnesses tend to come in a greater variety of sizes than collars; there may be better options for extra small or extra large dogs. Often harnesses are not adjusted to fit properly; if not fitted correctly, harnesses may cause the dog discomfort.
In the event of a dog’s harness getting caught on something, the dog is safe from hanging. A harness that is improperly fitted may actually inhibit movement and alter the dog’s natural gait.

5 Essential Dog Training Supplies

What are the 5 things you’ll need to make your positive training plan fun and easy for your dog?

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on dog training supplies to be prepared to train your dog effectively. For most dogs, a well-fitted harness, comfortable flat-buckle collar, sturdy leash, and some tasty treats are all you will need to teach your dog to love training time! When dogs love their training, they learn behaviors quickly, and the best trainers never over-complicate things.

Save your cash for high-quality training treats and don’t bother with fancy dog training equipment. Stick with Whole Dog Journal‘s 5 positive dog training gear essentials and both you and your dog will have a safe and happy learning experience!

TRAINING A DOG: WHAT YOU’LL NEED

1. A Nylon, Leather or Heavy Cotton Leash

When your dog has a positive association with his leash, it makes going out for walks or getting in the car a lot easier. Your dog might even let you know when it’s time to go out by grabbing his leash and bringing it to you! You will want a leash made of sturdy cotton, nylon or leather that is between 4-6 feet in length. Build your dog’s positive feelings toward his leash by feeding lots of training treats whenever you clip it to his harness. If your dog is known to chew the leash, treats are also useful for redirecting his attention (and mouth) away from it. 

Even if you are fortunate enough to have a well-fenced or otherwise secure property where your dog can roam off-leash, you will want to consider leash training. Vet visits, the pet supply store – almost every public space will require your dog to be leashed. A dog who isn’t used to walking on a leash can make life quite difficult for their guardian, by being reactive when leashed or dragging their walker.

2. A Flat-Buckle or Breakaway Dog Collar

Collars are not the primary point of attachment for your leash. Collars are invaluable for carrying IDs, proof of vaccinations, and other licenses a dog might need if lost, but Whole Dog Journal holds the belief that attaching a leash directly to a dog’s neck collar must be potentially harmful. A dog with perfect leash etiquette – who never strains, drags, or ducks out of their collar – is the exception to this rule. But even so, a harness is almost always the better choice for attaching your dog’s leash.

Collars should be loose-fitting around a dog’s neck. You should be able to fit approximately 2 of your fingers between the collar and your dog’s skin; any tighter, and your dog may develop strain or chafing over prolonged wear. A collar that is loose enough for your dog’s comfort is simply not secure enough to be the main mechanism for controlling or restraining them on walks.

Since your dog will wear their collar more than any other gear, it is important that your dog is always comfortable in it. That said, dogs should not wear their collars ALL the time. Yes, there are different kinds of dog collars designed for safety, etc., but no collar eliminates every risk. To know more, read Nancy Kern’s “When Dog Collars Become Deadly.”

3. A Properly-Fitted Front-Clip Harness

Whole Dog Journal recommends using a harness for your dog’s general street action: walks, light exercise, car rides.

Harnesses should always be taken off in the house or during playtime with other dogs, however. Though there is no suffocation risk with harnesses, they can still get stuck on objects as dogs play.

Excessive wear, or an improperly fitted harness, can cause chafing around dogs’ “elbows”. There are even some reports of dogs developing conformation or gait issues from wearing a harness. Despite this debate, harnesses are still better for restraining your dog than leashes. As mentioned, harnesses present no risk of damage to dogs’ necks and are generally a more effective training tool for dogs who pull the leash.

4. A Clicker!

The decision to use a training clicker as a reinforcer when teaching your dog is entirely up to you, but developing your dog’s positive association with one can make training other behaviors a lot easier. Clickers for dog training are cheap and available at any pet supply store or online. If you don’t want to wait to obtain one, use any household object that you can use in one hand and which makes a distinct clicking noise. A loud pen or a baby toy could work; just keep in mind that clickers designed for dog training make a very sharp, recognizable sound which dogs can hear and identify easily. You want to find an object like that.

5. Delicious Dog Treats

The most important training tool of all: valuable dog treats. Treats are how you motivate a dog to do training exercises with you, and how you let them know they’re doing a good job. Choose a snack that is low-calorie, high-reward. A strong positive training program requires a lot of treats, so it is important to find a food that won’t cost you a fortune, isn’t a bother to carry around with you, your dog is highly interested in, and which won’t make your dog gain weight.

Whole Dog Journal will always recommend boiled chicken as a training treat, but we also encourage trainers to try using veggies. You may be dealing with a dog who lives for vegetables, in which case weight gain will be of no concern.

Here are 4 Training Tools Whole Dog Journal never recommends:

  1. Choke collars
  2. Prong collars
  3. Head halters (with some exceptions)
  4. Electric shock systems

A Quick Check-in From Puppies-R-Us

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It’s simply astonishing how fast puppies grow. Three weeks ago I wrote a post about the then-four-week-old puppies I’m fostering. Three weeks ago, they were just starting to show little bits of grown-up dog behavior: adorable little growls and barks, playing with each other, and running toward me when I call them for a meal or to go outside (or come inside).

coonhound puppy

Today, the seven Treeing Walker Coonhound puppies are seven weeks old and just the most amazing, perfectly formed little dogs. They (unfortunately) remember things they learned days ago – like how exactly they got through the barriers I erected in the kitchen to keep them out of the recycling bin, where there are crushed aluminum cans and plastic bottles just waiting to be strewn about the kitchen (so, for a while, the recycling bin will have to be relocated to a table top). Fortunately, they also remember good things, like how they can get attention and petting if they sit in front of me, rather than jumping up or biting my bare ankles (ouch!). 

Housetraining is going super well, too. I keep them in a large kennel that’s on my back porch, with a tarp under a thick bed of wood shavings. They have an enormous crate, covered with cardboard and then blankets that are holding in the warmth from an electric heating pad (the hard-plastic kind made for dogs; it only heats up to dog body’s temperatures, and turns off when there is no weight on it). When I awaken them in the morning, I open the door to their pen and rush down the porch stairs into the back yard. Just 10 days ago they couldn’t “do” stairs. Now they tumble down in a group and they all immediately halt in the dirt and go pee! Yay, puppies! Cheers and petting all around. Then we race back up the stairs, and I open the back door and let them into the kitchen. They run around and play (and try to bite my ankles, and pull on my pants legs) as I prepare their breakfast. Immediately after breakfast, we all race outside again, back down the stairs into the backyard, and now it’s poop time! It’s all routine, and hardly any more indiscriminate pottying in the kitchen.

coonhound puppies

I’m letting them into the rest of the house now, but only in ones and twos – not the whole herd. That’s tooooo much. They go in too many different directions and I don’t have the whole house puppy-proofed. Why is it that puppies this age have such a strong instinct to grab anything that looks like a cord? But I do want them to be comfortable with the sounds of the TV, vacuum, heater, stereo, people opening and closing doors, and so on, so after pottying outdoors, that’s the time to have supervised and nearly individualized indoor exploration time. (It’s a wonder I am getting anything done!)

mother coonhound

Mama Hound still sleeps with the babies and plays with them a bit outside, but she really, really appreciates getting to come in the house and lay about with my other adult dogs in the house while I work. I remember how great it felt when my toddler son started kindergarten and I could work unencumbered for much of the day – ahhhh.  That’s how she seems to feel. She will be headed soon to the Western coordinator of the American Black & Tan Coonhound Rescue – the group that is sponsoring the whole family’s rescue, to be spayed and start treatment for her heartworm infection. At least now she’s put on some weight and is more familiar with people and loves attention and affection. I’m not sure she had any love before this group pulled her from the shelter that took her in as a stray, skinny, pregnant, and heartworm-positive. She was so shut down with stress that she seemed almost comatose. Now she’s developing some darling play behaviors and frisking about with the pups and even with my two-year old dog Woody.

mother coonhound

If anyone is interested in a calm, sweet, low-maintenance mama dog, or one of these darling pups, check out the AB&TC website. The pups will appear on the site soon, in the “available puppies” in the Southwest region. The mom won’t be available until after her spay and heartworm treatment (unless, by some miracle, someone wants to foster-to-adopt her through that period).

Best Types of Crates for Dog Training

Whole Dog Journal has written a lot in the past about the usefulness of having a comfortable crate which your dog calls home. Crates are a convenient way to keep your dog out of harm’s way, out of your way, and away from guests when necessary. A crate is regarded as the safest way to transport dogs in the car, and if you ever fly with your dog, you’re going to need a crate for that too.

There is one benefit to crate training a new dog or puppy which may not be obvious, but for many dog guardians becomes the only reason: crates are instrumental in house training (potty training) dogs.

small soft sided dog crate

Dreamstime_m_101466439

Crate training your dog comes with ample benefits for the both of you, so let’s review the several varieties of dog crates on the market, and what each crate is best suited for!

5 Types of Dog Crates:

1. Plastic Portable Dog Carriers

Plastic dog crates like these are generally used for small to medium-sized dogs. They are typically made entirely of thick plastic, have a front-facing swinging door and a carrying handle on the top. This type of crate is helpful for dogs who are on the go with their owners. Portable and sturdy, these crates are good for car and plane travel. If you’re flying with your dog and you know he’ll need to go in the cargo hold, a strong-walled crate like this will offer the most protection.

plastic portable dog crate

Dreamstime_m_80554230

2. Folding Wire Dog Crates

Here is the ubiquitous dog kennel – the wire crate. Most are folding, so you can easily move them around the house or into the car. The upsides of these crates are that they come in all sizes, your dog has unrestricted view of the house from within, and they are easily cleaned. Putting a cushion or thick blanket down on the metal bottom tray makes it comfortable for your dog. A common issue with these crates is often they are too big for the dogs that use them. A roomy crate might just be big enough for your dog to eliminate on one end and curl up for bed on the other, foiling your housetraining initiatives.

wire dog crate

Dreamstime_m_29490509

3. Soft-Sided Dog Crates

This type of dog kennel isn’t for every dog. They are usually made of canvas or nylon, and are therefore more destructible than wire or plastic crates. Dogs who like to scratch or chew at their confines are not good candidates for a soft crate; in general, WDJ doesn’t recommend soft crates for initial crate training. For already crate-trained or exceptionally calm dogs, a soft kennel is a comfortable, lightweight travel option for dogs of any size. WDJ reviewed the best soft-sided dog crates on the market– check it out to see if they’re right for your dog.

soft sided dog crate

Dreamstime_m_35420340

4. Heavy-Duty Dog Crates

Whole Dog Journal does not see an immediate purpose for a “heavy duty” dog kennel, unless of course you need to crate the Hulk. This type of crate is commonly marketed for giant breed dogs, dogs who destroy their crates, or for master kennel escape artists. If this is the only kind of crate you’ve found that is large enough for your enormous dog, fine. If you think a heavy-duty crate is the right solution for a dog with crate anxiety – a dog who relentlessly chews the crate and tries to escape, who can’t hunker down and relax in confinement no matter what – you need to take a few steps back. Remember: the point of a crate is not to be a prison, but a havenfor your dog. If you need maximum security just to keep your dog inside a crate, your dog is not reaping the training benefits a crate is supposed to provide. Instead, some negative behaviors like house soiling may even worsen as the dog’s stress compounds.

bestpet professional heavy duty dog crate

Amazon.com/BestPet Professional

5. Furniture Dog Crates (sometimes called Fashion Crates)

This kind of crate is exactly what it sounds like: a dog kennel that doubles as home furniture. The most typical example of this crate is in the form of an end table or credenza. WDJ does not recommend these crates for dog training. They are not portable or easily cleanable, but they are quite expensive.  Yes, they look nice in the living room, but unless your dog is accustomed to sleeping in cabinets, we don’t recognize this type of dog kennel as an effective training tool.

boomer & george trenton pet crate end table

Hayneedle.com/Boomer & George Trenton

Do Dogs Like Kennels? Why Should You Crate Train?

The age-old theory is that dogs, having evolved to be “den” animals who seek the security of small, enclosed spaces to sleep and hide, will avoid pooping or peeing inside the crate because that would defy an instinct to keep their den clean. Dogs find comfort in having a crate of their own – when they have a positive association with the crate, it becomes a place to retreat when the house environment gets overwhelming, or when they want to sleep unbothered by housemates. Naturally, dogs are motivated not to eliminate in their own space. For this reason, you can avoid accidents in the house overnight by crate training your dog.

Dog crates are NOT supposed to be used as punishment! Dragging the dog into his crate whenever he misbehaves will not only encourage your dog to consider the crate as a prison and explore ways to escape it, but will also ruin your dog’s chances of using the crate in its intended way: as a place to relax.

It’s true: some dogs hate the crate. Encouraging guardians to crate a dog who is clearly stressed by it would be irresponsible on WDJ’s part. There are alternatives you can try if your dog dislikes being crated. You can also probably rebuild a more positive association with the crate through careful, calculated conditioning. Even for grown dogs who’ve had a long-time aversion to the crate can be reconditioned to tolerate it.

In summary, the best kind of crate to use to train your dog depends on your lifestyle and intentions. Do you need a dog crate that pops up and breaks down easily for relocation, or something sturdy for frequent car rides? Invest in a properly sized wire crate. Need a carrier for your small dog that he can feel extra safe in? The hard-sided plastic crates are your best bet.

Elizabethan Collars: There Are Modern Alternatives!

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WDJ contributor/freelance writer Barbara Dobbins sent me a text from the waiting room of a busy veterinary practice the other day:

“Sitting at the veterinary specialist and watching all the traditional cones go by. Why don’t they offer or even discuss alternatives? Sigh.”

Dobbins’ dissatisfaction is understandable: She most recently wrote a review of alternatives to the classic veterinary “cone” or Elizabethan collar (“Shameless Protection,” WDJ July 2017). Dobbins tested eight different products that can be used to protect a dog’s wound or surgical site, each of which offered greater comfort, vision, and less amplification of sound than what a dog typically experiences with a conventional, vet-issued “cone.”

The classic cone offered at most veterinary practices is made of very heavy, stiff , opaque plastic. Most dogs suffer more from the cones than whatever wound they have that is being protected. They are often bigger than they have to be to protect the dog’s wound site, and because the plastic is opaque, the wearer often bashes into doorways and table legs, trying to move around his house. Many dogs, and especially senior dogs, seem to find the whole experience so disheartening that they often reuse to try to eat or drink or even walk around with the cones on.

Many pet supply stores carry lighter-weight, translucent cones, which often come with a strip of fabric or vinyl that lines the inner edge of the collar, making it less liable to dig into the dog’s neck uncomfortably. If your dog has to wear an Elizabethan collar for a short period, for example, following a surgery or wound repair, we’d recommend picking up one of these inexpensive alternatives.

If your dog suffers from a condition that calls for longer-term use of a protective cone, we’d strongly recommend looking into one of the other alternatives Dobbins describes in her review.

After seeing the alternatives, we’d never bring our dog home from a vet’s office with one of those  classic, unwieldy, uncomfortable (and often over-priced) cones again.

 

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