This article was originally published as a sidebar to “How to Teach Your Dog To Greet Politely – or Not Greet at All.” The protocol described here was adapted from Kelly Fahey’s Resource Guarding protocol, which was adapted from Chirag Patel’s “Drop” protocol.
Being able to teach your dog to move away from something when asked is an invaluable tool, both for your dog’s safety and for your sanity. Note: Be sure to repeat each step eight to 12 (or more) times, until your dog eagerly responds to the cue before progressing to the next step.
1. Say “Walk Away” in a cheerful tone and toss several treats on the ground six to eight feet behind the dog. Turn and move away with him to encourage him to move quickly. Note: you are trying to get your dog to do a 180-degree turn to get to the treats behind him.
2. Place a neutral (not valuable to the dog) object on the ground. Walk your leashed dog toward it, and when he reaches to sniff it, say “Walk Away!” cheerfully and toss several treats on the ground four to eight feet from the object, behind him. Turn and move away quickly with him, trying to get the dog to do a 180-degree turn away from the object to the treats behind him. Make it a party! Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately and happily moves away from the object in response to the cue. Practice this step with a variety of neutral objects.
Step 2: A neutral item is placed on the ground. Just as the dog is approaching it to sniff it, give the “Walk away!” cue and toss some treats in the opposite direction.
3. Repeat Step #2 eight to 12 (or more) times but begin hand-feeding the treats to your dog instead of tossing them on the ground. Continue to move away from the object as you feed him the treats.
4. Place a low-value object (something your dog is mildly interested in) on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog move away from the object. Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the object in response to the cue. Practice this step with a variety of low-value objects.
5. Place a medium-value object (to your dog) on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog quickly and happily move away from the object. Make it a party! Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the object in response to the cue. Practice with a variety of medium-value objects.
6. Place a high-value object (one of your dog’s favorite things) on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog move away from the object. Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the object in response to the cue. Practice with a variety of high-value objects.
Step 6: An item that is a high-value object to your dog (such as this dog’s favorite ball) is placed on the ground. As he approaches it, the handler has given his “Walk away!” cue and is about to give him several treats as he turns away from the ball.
7. Place your dog’s empty food bowl on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog move away from the object. Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the bowl in response to the cue.
8. Put a handful of low-value food (dry kibble) in your dog’s bowl and place it on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog move away from the object. Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the bowl in response to the cue.
9. Put a handful of mid-value (dry kibble mixed with a little canned) food in your dog’s dish and place it on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk Away!” and feed treats from your hand as you and your dog move away from the object. Remember to make it a party! Repeat at least eight to 12 (or more) times until your dog immediately moves away from the bowl in response to the cue. Then repeat with high-value food in the bowl.
10. Finally, generalize the Walk Away behavior to other tempting attractions – a cat or squirrel on your walk, the cookie in a toddler’s hand, the greasy fast-food wrapper on the sidewalk, or the playful Poodle that is straining to greet your dog. Who knows? The Poodle’s owner might just ask you how you taught your dog to behave so well, or ask if your dogs could get together for a play-date sometime!
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As omnivores, dogs can digest plants as well as meat. Many nutritionists believe a mixture of both is important for a healthy dog. My darling baby boy is a 12-year-old German Shorthair Pointer mix. When he was around 6 years old he started to put on some weight. Based on a suggestion from a friend, I did some research on what vegetables dogs can eat, cut back on his commercial dog food, and added a handful of frozen green beans to his dinner. The vegetable slowed down the gobbling up of his food, added volume without many calories to help him feel full, and easily fit into my budget. The trick worked! My pup slimmed down.
Which Vegetables Are Good for Dogs, And Which Aren’t?
Leafy Greens
A good rule for finding leafy greens that your dog can eat is to stick to those that you would consume. Lettuce, spinach, chard, cabbage and kale are all okay for dogs. Besides being rich in vitamins A, C, and K, calcium, iron and potassium, leafy greens are also a good source of fiber. Much like humans, dogs get the most nutrients when the veggies are uncooked. Of course, if you want you can steam your dog’s vegetables for something a little different, or bake them for a crunchier treat. The high fiber in leafy greens can cause some dogs to have an upset stomach after initially added to their diet. Introduce any new food slowly to keep your dog’s tummy safe.
Root Vegetables
In general root vegetables like carrots, beets, sweet potatoes and parsnips are safe to feed your dog. These vegetables are starchy and high in sugar, which means you do want to limit the amount you give to your dog (especially if his commercial or raw dog food already contains root vegetables – many do).
This includes vegetables like celery and asparagus. It may be a little harder to get your dog to enjoy these types of vegetables, but they are safe for dogs to eat. Some don’t like the taste, and some find them hard to grind up in their teeth. To help, cut stalky vegetables into small pieces and/or steam them.
Squash
Squash of all varieties are safe for dogs to eat. Pumpkin and butternut squash can help dogs with bouts of diarrhea, and most dogs don’t mind the taste of squash. Use up all your excess summer squash from the garden by steaming it up for your dog, or cut up and bake this year’s jack-o-lantern after Halloween for your dog to eat. It’s best to limit your pup’s consumption to the meat of the squash, keeping the seeds and skin away.
Legumes
This vegetable group includes bean and alfalfa sprouts, mature beans such as kidney, pinto, and lentil, and peas. The topic of legumes in dog food has been in the news lately. The reason is due to a recent FDA update which states there are reports of canine dilated cardiopulmonary (DCM) in dogs eating pet foods containing legumes or potatoes high up on the ingredients list. If the protein of your dog’s diet relies heavily on legumes or potatoes, you should not only avoid giving more of this plant group to your dog, but also consider reducing the levels of legumes in his main dog food, i.e. changing dog foods. A note on green beans: Green beans may be the most widely-fed vegetable to dogs because of their taste and easy digestion. Please be aware that, despite their name, green beans are not actually classified as beans, and therefore don’t warrant the limitations recommended for true legumes.
Alliums
Alliums are bulb vegetables like onions, garlic, leeks, chives, and shallots. Do not give your dog access to these plants, as they are toxic to dogs. Negative side effects of eating onions or garlic for dogs range from a stomach ache to developing anemia which, at it’s worse, can cause organs to shut down.
Broccoli, Brussel sprouts, Cauliflower, Corn and Cucumber
All of these veggies are safe for your dog to munch on but, like other vegetables, keep it to small quantities – especially if your dog isn’t used to eating these types of foods. Remember to take the corn off the cob before handing it over to your dog. Although the cob itself isn’t bad for a dog to consume, it is easy to swallow in chunks or whole, which can cause choking or intestinal obstruction. Whenever changing your dog’s diet make sure to check with your vet, go slow, and pay attention to your dog. If you follow these guidelines, adding vegetables to your pup’s food can help him receive a more varied, nutritionally complete profile in his diet.
Tips for Feeding Your Dog Vegetables:
* Frozen bags of vegetables are often on sale. Stock up. Have a blend ready to grab in a Tupperware bowl in the freezer. * If your pup is sensitive to the cold of a frozen vegetable, put a small bowl in the refrigerator for easy treat access. * For a summer treat, add vegetables to a 1:1 mixture of chicken broth and water in an ice tray. Once frozen, pop out one or two for a delicious hot day treat. * When cooking, set aside the unused vegetable trimmings that are safe for your dog to consume. A great no-waste alternative to throwing it in the garbage. * If your dog doesn’t want anything to do with vegetables and you want to supplement what he is getting in his regular diet, you can chop or puree them and mix them into his meals. For treats, adding some dog-safe peanut butter (no sugar, just peanuts) can get your dog started. Eventually you should be able to back off on the addition and feed the vegetable plain. * Vegetables are a great reward in treat puzzle games. As always make sure you watch your dog when those are in use and that all edible treats are cleaned from the puzzle before storing away.
Summer is here, which means fresh fruit is everywhere. While fruit is a great and (relatively) healthy sweet snack for people, not all fruit is safe for dogs. To learn more about what kinds of fruit is okay to share with your dog and which fruits you should not allow your dog to eat, we connected with Dr. Tina Wismer, Medical Director of the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center (APCC).
What Fruits Are Good for Dogs?
The fruits safest to share with your dogs are: apples, blueberries, watermelon, cantaloupe, and bananas, as Dr. Wismer advises.
Dogs are individuals with different preferences when it comes to treats, so you might need to try a few of these fruits to find one that your dog is interested in eating. Dr. Wismer cautions, “Some dogs love all kinds of fruit; others are not impressed.”
Unfortunately, no fruit is good for dogs to eat because of how high in sugar most varieties are, as Dr. Wismer explains. While fruits like pears and pineapple do provide nutrients to dogs, Dr. Wismer advises that fruit should only be given to your dog as an occasional treat. In other words, it should not make up a significant part of your dog’s diet.
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What Fruits Are Dangerous to Dogs?
Dr. Wismer explained that you should always avoid giving your dog grapes and raisins (the dried form of grapes) because they can cause kidney damage. The reason grapes are so toxic to dogsis not entirely known, but they can destroy kidney cells and result in kidney failure.
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Some people believe that peaches, nectarines and apricots (stone fruits), as well as apples, are dangerous to dogs due to the presence of cyanide. However, Dr. Wismer’s perspective was that although these fruits do contain very small amounts of cyanide in their seeds and pits, they shouldn’t be a cause for concern. She says dog parents shouldn’t panic if their dog, for example, eats an apple core. Just like for humans who swallow apple seeds, there is no risk of a dog who ate seeds or pit developing cyanide poisoning. Though, to be extra safe it’s a good idea to remove the core/pits before offering fruit to your dog because choking is always a potential concern.
As Dr. Wismer explains, even fruit that is nontoxic to dogs isn’t really healthy for them because of its sugar levels, and should be given in very limited quantities. She recommends feeding your dog pieces of fruit only as treats, and even then, she adds that, “calories from treats should not make up more than 10% of a dog’s diet”.
Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author. Her novels have been honored by organizations ranging from the Lambda Literary Foundation to the American Library Association. Sassafras is a Certified Trick Dog Instructor who lives and writes in Brooklyn with her partner, a senior Chihuahua mix, a rescued Shepherd mix and a Newfoundland puppy, along with two bossy cats and a semi-feral kitten. Learn more at www.SassafrasLowrey.com.
When it comes to dental health in humans, it’s simple—combine twice daily toothbrushing with a quick flossing session and a swig of mouthwash, and we’re protecting ourselves against cavities, tooth decay, and other issues. But how many of us take the time to provide the same level of care for our pet’s teeth? Moreover, does the average pet owner even know what to do when it comes to caring for their dogs’ teeth?
According to Scott Linick, DVM, a Fellow of the Academy of Veterinary Dentistry and chairman of the public relations committee of the Foundation for Veterinary Dentistry, brushing your pet’s teeth is the gold standard for home dental care – and it should be done every single day. But, unfortunately, he says that fewer than 10 percent of dog owners brush their pet’s teeth on a regular basis…or at all.
“Home dental care is one of the most important things you can do for your pet next to giving him food and love,” he says. “It’s because 75 to 85 percent of dogs and cats over the age of four experience some degree of dental disease…which has been associated with systemic diseases, such as heart and kidney disease.”
Of course, you can’t just pick up your own tube of human toothpaste and start brushing your dog’s teeth. Just like our dogs don’t have the same dietary requirements as we do, dog toothpaste differs from toothpaste for people in several ways. “It’s important to use a toothpaste made specifically for pets, because human toothpaste contains fluoride and detergents that are not meant to be swallowed,” Dr. Linick says. “No matter how brilliant your dog is, you cannot teach him to rinse.” Additionally, dogs tend to really dislike the taste of mint; you might make the teeth brushing experience even more unpleasant for your dog by using your own toothpaste.
Though there are also toothbrushes designed for pets, according to Laura M. LeVan, DVM, Diplomate of the American Veterinary Dental College, any new, soft-bristled toothbrush can be used for your dog. Look for a brush with a long handle and a brush head that’s small enough to fit inside your dog’s cheek. “And a dog’s toothbrush should be changed at least every three months, or whenever the bristles have worn,” she says.
According to Dr. LeVan, as plaque collects on teeth due to the combination of saliva, food particles, and bacteria, gingivitis will occur in the soft tissues around the teeth. If this plaque remains, it will harden into tartar—and once that happens, your pet’s normal cleansing action of chewing is no longer enough to keep his or her mouth clean. “Plaque builds up on human teeth six to eight hours after brushing, and the same process happens in dogs,” she adds. While the normal immune system in the mouth can neutralize the harmful effects, she notes, periodontal disease can occur. “Often dog owners think this is normal and call it “doggy breath”—but it’s not normal, and it is a sign of disease,” she warns.
When choosing a dog toothpaste, you can start by seeking out the VOHC Accepted seal, though it’s not entirely necessary. “Most pet toothpastes are antibacterial and may have enzymes (lactoperoxidase and glucose oxidase) in them that react with the saliva to become antibacterial,” Dr. LeVan explains. Even if the dog toothpaste you use does not bear the Veterinary Oral Health Council seal, it is probably still effective in ridding your dog’s mouth of plaque and tartar.
After applying the toothpaste, Dr. LeVan advises dog owners to slip the toothbrush underneath the cheek to ensure that the back teeth are brushed; as your dog closes his or her mouth, the outside of the lower teeth brush the inside of the upper teeth, and the tongue action brushes the inside of the lower teeth, so pet owners can concentrate their brushing on the outside (or buccal) surfaces of the teeth.
“Owners should brush their dog’s teeth every day. Although that may sound daunting, it’s actually easier to brush the teeth daily than a few times a week or month—studies have shown that brushing infrequently does not control oral disease, so it’s a waste of time,” she says. “Believe it or not, the whole procedure should only take 30 to 60 seconds. If owners are spending more time than that, they’re making it more complicated than it need be.”
While it’s best to start training your dog to get used to teeth brushing as a puppy, when taking care of an adult dog’s teeth, try to make it as positive of an experience as possible. Many dog toothpastes are chicken or beef flavored; try purchasing a few flavors to see which your dog prefers. If your dog loves the taste of his toothpaste, the chore of toothbrushing might become a lot easier. “It’s important, especially with adult dogs, that you make brushing a positive experience. If you grab your dog in a headlock and start ramming the toothbrush in its mouth, it will be a one-time experience because your dog will run from you,” Dr. Linick says.
Dr. Linick recommends starting slowly, wiping or brushing one or two teeth initially with toothpaste, and giving plenty of praise and treats as you expand your efforts. And if Sparky still refuses? Last resort alternatives to brushing a dog’s teeth exist.”From most effective to least effective, there are pads you can use to wipe the teeth, as well as rinses, chew toys and treats, and water additives that have ingredients to promote oral health,” Dr. Linick concludes. None of these, we will add, are as effective at keeping your dog’s mouth clean as brushing with a toothpaste made for dogs.
A warning from the FDA about a recently reported spike in the number of dogs developing dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) (linked here again) and a possible connection between DCM and the inclusion of peas, lentils, legumes, and potatoes in the diets of a majority (not all) of the dogs means we are going to be talking about diet a lot for a while.
I read the comments on both my blog from last week and Whole Dog Journal‘s Facebook page (where a link to the blog is posted), and I have also been reading messages and emails sent directly to me, and one thing jumps out: So many people have been feeding grain-free diets with absolutely no reason or justification for their decision. Some people have gone so far as to accuse WDJ of promoting these grain-free dog food diets over diets that contain grain – oh, no you don’t! That is just flat untrue.
The Popularity (Overpopularity?) of Grain-Free Dog Food
When the first few grain-free dry foods began appearing on the market about 10 years ago, we were happy to see products that could be fed to dogs who were allergic to or intolerant of grains. Mind you, these dogs are in the minority. Nevertheless, the fact that some commercial grain-free dog foods were available meant that more people who suspected that their dogs might have an allergy to or intolerance of some grain or another could try one of these foods and see for themselves: Did their dogs improve? Get worse? Or did it make no difference whatsoever? The commercial availability meant they could do a feeding trial that didn’t take a lot of time to research or money (for a home-prepared diet trial).
Lots of people tried grain-free foods and some of them noticed that their dogs’ allergy symptoms or digestive problems went away. When you have been dealing with a chronically itchy dog, or one with persistent diarrhea or gas, and these symptoms cease – well, it’s almost like a religious conversion. These folks often go out and preach.
Between the feeding success of these foods in some dogs, the enthusiasm of the owners of the success-story dogs, and the relentless hype coming from the “bones and raw food” / “biologically appropriate raw food” / “evolutionary diet” people (many of whom have strong anti-grain sentiments), grain-free just took off. I complained in a blog post over a year ago that it has gotten to the point where I was having a difficult time finding a food that did contain grain in pet specialty stores.
It came home again about a month ago, when three different people who were adopting the puppies that I had been fostering for my local shelter each asked about food recommendations and each said, “Should I get a grain-free food?” In each case, I asked them, “Why do you ask?” And not one person had a real answer. “I heard grain-free was better!” seemed to be the consensus. (My answer to that: It’s better for dogs who have problems with grain!)
If pressed about my misgivings about grain-free dry dog foods for any or all dogs, I say this: There is a far shorter history of dogs eating the carbohydrates that are being used in these diets than there was of dogs eating grains. I don’t like putting my dogs on the front wave of anything, whether it is the latest/greatest heartworm prevention medication (when ivermectin works just fine, and has been for decades), or flea treatments, or diets. I tend to want to hold back and see whether an inordinate number of adverse experiences are reported as these things hit the market.
Dogs Need Balance Over Time in Their Diets
But, perhaps more importantly, feeding ANY type of food every day, all year, for years and years, goes against my longest-standing food recommendation. We have always encouraged owners to switch foods frequently – at least several times a year – and switch manufacturers, too. Many food makers use the same vitamin/mineral premix in all their products, making us worry that any nutrient excess, deficiency, or imbalance would become essentially entrenched in the body of a dog fed an exclusive diet of that company’s foods.
Home-prepared diet advocates talk about “balance over time.” The concept is this: If you change the ingredients and recipe of your dog’s diet – exactly as most of us feed ourselves and our human families – as long as you include everything that a dog needs over the span of any, say, week’s worth of meals, the dog will be fine. In other words, every single meal doesn’t have to be “complete and balanced” – you can accomplish this over the course of several meals.
I look at the feeding of commercial diets the same way; I think you can similarly achieve balance over time by feeding different commercial products from different manufacturers, and, in this way, hedge your dog’s nutritional bets, rather than going “all in” on any one manufacturer or set of ingredients.
Whole Dog Journal‘s General Dog Food Recommendations
When I am asked to make diet recommendations, these are the things I say:
1. Feed a variety of products, rotating both among and between several manufacturers of products, for nutritional balance over time, and to avoid problems caused by long-term exposure to any formulation problems or nutritional imbalances/excesses/inadequacies in your dog’s diet.
2. Feed the best food you can afford and that your dog does well on. This doesn’t mean spend the most that’s possible; if your dog does great on mid-range foods, great! But super cheap food should be avoided. The difference in the ingredients of cheap foods versus mid-range foods is staggering.
3. DO READ ingredient labels. You should recognize most of the foods in the food; if things are weird, and only sound sort of food-like, they are likely highly processed food fractions. You don’t want to see a lot of those. If the front of the label says the food is “chicken and rice” you had better see chicken and rice high up on the ingredient label, not buried four ingredients back below chicken by-product meal, corn, wheat, and pea protein.
4. Feed grain-free foods only for good reason (dog intolerant of/allergic to multiple grains). Feed limited-ingredient foods only for good reason (dog intolerant of/allergic to multiple ingredients). Feed exotic protein sources only for good reason (as a part of a formal food allergy trial, or to a dog intolerant of/allergic to multiple “common” protein sources).
5. Above all: Trust. Your. Dog! If it works for him, it’s okay. If it doesn’t work for him, change!
Many common foods in the human diet are great for dogs too. Some foods, of course, are toxic to dogs, like onions, grapes, and chocolate. Other foods are nontoxic to dogs, but aren’t healthy either, like ice cream and bacon. (Newsflash: these are bad for you too.) Overall, people foods that are poisonous to dogs are really the exception, not the rule.
The canine digestive system has evolved alongside humans’ for longer than history has been recorded; they’ve adapted to eat a lot of what we eat, and get nutrients from a variety of foods you simply don’t find wild dog species munching on in their respective habitats (namely, grains).
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There are foods people designate strictly for human consumption which our dogs could (and arguably should) be eating regularly too. Yogurt and eggs top that list. Raw honey is a well-known and tasty way to treat canine ailments like kennel cough and topical wounds. And do you personally know a dog who can resist a scoop of peanut butter when presented with one? These are the more widely accepted human foods for dogs, but there are plenty of other great foods to taste-test with your dog.
Let’s explore 10 less obvious human foods for dogs, which you can add to a store-bought dog food or include in your home-prepared diet plan. The following foods can be as nutritious to dogs as they are to people, but please always consider your specific dog’s needs and sensitivities when feeding new things. Just like humans, dogs can be allergic to or intolerant of any type of food.
10 Human Foods for Dogs
1. Oatmeal
Dogs do not need to eat grains as part of a complete canine diet, but most of them can without problems. Oatmeal is one of the better grain choices for dogs, as long as it is cooked. High in fiber, oatmeal is very binding in the digestive tract. For dogs with irregular bowel movements or just a case of diarrhea, a little oatmeal can do wonders.
2. Avocado
Some sources say avocado is toxic to dogs and to never feed it. At Whole Dog Journal, we know that isn’t true. The concern with dogs eating avocado is around a chemical called persin, which is present in the highest amounts in the avocado skin and seed, which are not fed to the dog anyway. The potassium and fiber levels of avocados make them a worthy addition to your dog’s diet, just make sure you don’t feed too many, as they are quite caloric and high in fat.
Juana María Gonzalez Santos | Damedeeso/Dreamstime
3. Pineapple
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Pineapple is fine for most dogs if it is fresh, skinned, and cored. Canned pineapple is generally packaged in a corn syrup liquid – no good for dogs, as we know processed sugar can lead to obesity and diabetes. But freshly sliced pineapple chunks make naturally sweet treats for dogs, whether straight from the core or frozen. The skin of pineapples has a spiny, scaly texture that gives the fruit its signature look. Your dog probably won’t want to eat the skin, but don’t give him access to it regardless. The rough skin and large, hard cores of pineapples present choking and esophageal damage hazards to dogs who try to swallow them.
4. Turmeric
The practice of using turmeric as an anti-inflammatory aid dates back about 4,000 years with roots in India. It is antibacterial, anticoagulant, anticarcinogen, and anti-inflammatory. Though there are few existing clinical studies on how turmeric directly benefits dogs, the anecdotal evidence that turmeric works as an anti-inflammatory for dogs is robust. For dogs with arthritis, especially, feeding this ancient spice as a supplement in their food can really improve mobility and comfort.
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5. Blueberries
Dogs have no problem digesting (and enjoying) blueberries. Of course, there is always the possibility that your specific dog is allergic to berries – try feeding your dog just a few at first. Blueberries, because of their size, sweetness, and nutritional contents, make excellent training treats. They are a great way to keep your dog hydrated and engaged during summer training sessions!
6. Cinnamon
Cinnamon is another spice we humans use in our food often but may not think to share with our dogs. Dogs tend to like the taste of cinnamon, and similar to turmeric, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of this spice make it a good remedy for arthritis pain in dogs.
7. Basil
Fresh green herbs of most varieties are great additions to a dog’s diet. Like any new food, you should monitor your dog after feeding basil or other herb in case of allergies. The phytonutrients and essential oils present in fresh basil leaves have insect-repelling and anti-inflammatory properties, and their wonderful smell and taste make them easy for dogs to eat in moderation.
8. Cayenne
Cayenne peppers are spicy – hotter than chili powder and found consistently in Mexican and Cajun food. So how could this burn-inducing spice be good for dogs? Turns out cayenne is the most effective herbal remedy for heart disease in dogs. Cayenne improves nutrient absorption in the body, for both dogs and people, and is surprisingly soothing when applied to topical wounds. There are precautions you need to take if a cayenne supplement is something you’d like to try with your dog, however.
For anyone who cooks their dogs’ meals themselves, the concept of dogs ingesting canned sardines is not anything new. Considered a top source of the healthiest fats for dogs (EPA and DHA), sardines packed in water without salt make excellent additions to store-bought and homemade dog foods. Just be sure to avoid feeding fish packed in olive oil, or any oil for that matter. Oils like corn, safflower, sunflower and olive are quite rich in omega-6 fatty acids, which are not an essential component of the adult dog diet (but are for puppies – see here to learn more) and can be overfed.
10. Coconut oil
Whole Dog Journal readers have heard about coconut oil for dogs before. Packed with lauric and caprylic acid, which kill fungus and balances insulin, coconut oil is well documented to fight topical and internal infections in dogs. Dogs typically like the taste of coconut oil, so adding it to a dog’s normal food is rarely a problem. Perhaps the best reason to feed your dog coconut oil is for its deodorizing properties – if your dog tends to be smelly and greasy, we seriously recommend adding coconut oil to his food. There is much documentation of skin and coat improvements in dogs who are given a daily dose of coconut oil.
I’ve been getting calls, emails, social media messages, and countless forwarded articles from other websites and publications about the grain-free dog food warning – perhaps even from you! And the first thing I want to tell you is to take a breath!
The FDA issued a warning (linked here) that it is investigating a possible link between diet and dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) in dogs.
The grain-free dog food warning spread like wildfire through social media channels, but unfortunately, it also rapidly got dumbed down to a ridiculous level; it quickly evolved into something like “grain-free foods cause canine heart disease,” or worse yet, “boutique foods might kill your dog. The FDA characterizes the issue as a “potential association” between diets with very specific attributes (and certainly not ALL grain-free diets) and canine DCM – not a cause.
Please note that the FDA’s headline did not say anything about “grain-free diets” causing heart problems – though almost all the blog posts and articles in other publications have been saying exactly that. If you read the FDA’s statement, you will see that they said there may be a link between some grain-free diets and canine DCM, but there are also many other things going on that may be responsible for an observed rise in cases of canine DCM.
Linda Case, long-time animal nutrition expert and author of Dog Food Logic, has written an in-depth article for WDJ’s September issue that goes into lots of detail about what is known about the dietary causes of DCM, including several issues regarding taurine and the amino acids (cysteine and methionine) that dogs use to produce taurine. Click here to read her article about the connections between diet and DCM in dogs. Hint: It’s not as simple as the possibility that the diets are lacking the amino acid precursors to taurine.
But for now, hopefully to put your mind at ease, I’m going to briefly discuss some of the pertinent facts that make the story a little more complicated than the “grain-free diets cause heart disease” headlines.
What We Know About Dilated Cardiomyopathy in Dogs
The FDA received a report from Cardiac Care for Pets, a practice that employs 19 veterinary cardiologists in Maryland, Kentucky, Virginia, and Texas, that they had seen a spike in canine DCM cases – and not just in the breeds that have a genetic predisposition to developing DCM, but also in breeds that are not known for an inherited propensity for the condition. Their report also included the fact that all of the cases had something in common: all the dogs had been eating diets heavy in peas, lentils, chickpeas, and potatoes.
Other veterinary cardiologists were noticing the same thing. The FDA received reports recently of about two dozen additional cases, including three dogs that died of the condition. After reviewing the medical records of these dogs, the FDA felt it was prudent to issue a measured warning, in part to alert dog owners and veterinarians to be aware of signs of the condition in potentially affected dogs (which, it is hoped, will elicit more data). Its warning, specifically, stated that vets and dog owners should be alert for signs of DCM in dogs eating foods “containing peas, lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes as main ingredients.”
That’s our emphasis, but it is repeated in the FDA’s warning:
“Diets in cases reported to the FDA frequently list potatoes or multiple legumes [our emphasis again] such as peas, lentils, other ‘pulses’ (seeds of legumes), and their protein, starch, and fiber derivatives early in the ingredient list, indicating that they are main ingredients.” [Again, our emphasis.]
What is a “main ingredient”? There isn’t a legal definition, but in our book, it’s anything in about the first five ingredients on the list. As you probably know, food ingredients are listed on labels (by law) in order of their weight in the formula before the food is cooked. The first four to six ingredients generally represent the majority of what is in the food.
That said, the FDA’s warning also addressed “multiple legumes.” Our readers should be alert to the fact that food manufacturers sometimes list smaller amounts of several similar ingredients, or several constituent parts or “fractions” of the same ingredient. This not only visually minimizes the seeming presence of those ingredients in the food, but also makes the total of the ingredients ahead of these fractions seem to be present in more significant amounts than they actually are.
For example, it would appear that a food that lists its ingredients as “Chicken, peas, pea protein, pea fiber…” contains more chicken than any other single ingredient. But if you added up the total amount of pea-based ingredients, they would surely outweigh the chicken. This is what the FDA is getting to with its warning about “multiple legumes” – foods in which the legumes, taken together, might outweigh the animal protein sources.
If You Feel Your Dog’s Food is Connected to DCM:
Based on the FDA’s report, here are our first take-away points:
No matter what your dog eats, if she has any signs of DCM – including decreased energy, cough, difficulty breathing, and episodes of collapse – you should make an appointment to see your veterinarian ASAP, preferably one who can refer you to a veterinary cardiologist.
If you feed your dog a food that contains any potatoes, peas, lentils, or other seeds of legumes (such as chickpeas/garbanzo beans, soybeans, other types of beans, and alfalfa seeds), look at the ingredients list. If the food contains one or more of these ingredients high up on the ingredients list, has several of these ingredients, and/or is a limited-ingredient diet – typically, one containing only one animal protein source and one or two carbohydrate sources – the possibility is good that the food is one of the type that is being looked at as possibly causing a higher incidence of DCM.
In contrast, foods that are not limited-ingredient foods and contain just one of those ingredients, or that have one or two of these ingredients fairly low on the ingredients list (say, as the fifth or sixth or lower-level ingredient/s on the list), are not the kind of diet that has been connected with DCM.
If you feed your dog a diet that meets the description of the foods that have been described by the FDA as potentially problematic (foods that have potatoes, peas, lentils, or other seeds of legumes as main ingredients), consider these points:
– Are you feeding your dog this food because it’s the only diet you have been able to find that does not trigger other health problems in that dog? If so, continue feeding the diet, but carefully monitor your dog for any hint of signs of DCM. Also, discuss possible alternative diets and/or a blood test for taurine levels, with your veterinarian.
– Are you feeding your dog this food because you like the company, or it was recommended to you, or for no particular reason? Then consider switching to a diet that either contains fewer or none of these ingredients, and read on for more recommendations.
Not All Grain-Free Foods Are Under Suspicion
Within a matter of days of the FDA’s press release, we watched in dismay as the issue was reduced to, in the majority of cases, “grain-free diets cause heart canine heart disease. ”
Please understand that there are grain-free diets that do not contain potatoes, peas, lentils, or other seeds of legumes as main ingredients. For example, there are many raw diets, fresh-cooked/frozen diets, canned diets, and even some dry/kibble diets that are grain-free that do not contain potatoes, peas, lentils or other seeds of legumes. Not all grain-free diets have been implicated as concerning as regards canine DCM.
But, as we have been saying for some time (most recently here), grain-free diets have gotten inordinately popular for no particular reason. Many dog owners buy these products because they have heard some vague argument that “grains are bad for dogs” – an ill-informed blanket generalization we have fought against for ages. There is no particular advantage – and actually, several disadvantages – to feeding a grain-free diet (of any kind) to a dog who doesn’t have any problems with eating and digesting grain.
Points to Consider About Grain-Free Dog Food
Grain-free diets are often far higher in fat and calories than many dogs require. In dogs who gain weight easily, there is a very real danger of having to reduce the amount of food that one feeds the dog so much (in order to keep him from gaining too much weight), that he is at risk to become malnourished. In other words, if you cut his portion of a super-high-calorie diet to a reasonable number of calories, he may not get enough of the vitamins and minerals he needs.
Commercial diets that contain grains have been around longer and have been more thoroughly tested (in clinical settings and through common use) for far longer than diets that use increasingly novel non-grain sources of carbohydrates.
As Linda Case explains further in her article in the September 2018 issue, certain types of diets (specifically, diets that contain lamb meal and rice diets, soybean-based diets, diets high in rice bran or beet pulp, and high-fiber diets heavy in soybeans), have been previously identified as possible dietary causes of low taurine levels in dogs – something that is known to contribute to the development of DCM.
Our advice has long been to feed a grain-free diet only to dogs who have a problem with digesting multiple grains. (And, if you know which grain is giving your dog problems, you could also find a food that contains different grains, instead.)
However, we would not want to be on the record as saying “all grain-free foods are bad.” That’s another ridiculous overstatement. There are some terrific grain-free foods on the market – and some dogs do far better on these products than any grain-containing foods they have been fed. Owners have to look for products that work well for their individual dogs – and be willing to change as their dogs’ needs change.
Overreaching by Those With an Axe to Grind
It was bad enough to see the FDA’s warning reduced by a combination of poor reporting, poor reader comprehension, and social media hysteria to “grain-free foods cause canine heart disease.” But some media outlets also included statements from an animal nutrition expert whose opinions on diets are consistent with those of the pet food industry corporate giants; she has repeatedly been quoted as implicating “boutique” pet foods in the current rash of reported cases of DCM. What’s a boutique food? She doesn’t define this, but we suspect it’s anything made by any company whose annual sales are less than umpteen million…
This same expert has also implicated foods that contain “exotic ingredients,” which she provided a partial list for in one article: “kangaroo, lentils, duck, pea, fava bean, buffalo, tapioca, salmon, lamb, barley, bison, venison, and chickpeas.” Hmm.
All in all, we have lost track of the number of times she has been quoted as saying that pet owners should avoid “boutique, grain-free, or exotic ingredient diets” – and, unfortunately, this over-broad and ill-defined description is finding its way into more and more discussions of this concerning issue.
We have one more bone to pick with this expert; one of her articles on this topic suggests that dog owners do themselves a favor and “stop reading the ingredient list!” This makes us absolutely see red, as it harkens back to the “bad old days” of pet food. Twenty years ago, the making of pet food was a black box. “You guys, we are the experts here, trust us!” was the message of Big Pet Food. Consumers could no more find out where a food was made or where its ingredients were sourced than find out where the company CEOs ate breakfast. A suggestion that consumers shouldn’t worry their pretty little heads about what is actually in the food they buy for their dogs, and which is listed on the label by law for the protection of consumers and their dogs, is downright insulting.
We’d like to suggest that concerned owners keep reading labels and educating themselves about canine nutrition, and, for now, limit themselves to the facts that are currently known by the FDA about this spate of canine DCM cases (here is that link again!). Also, Linda Case’s excellent article in the September issue of WDJ will also help shed much-needed light on this complex and concerning issue.
We’ve all seen it at one point or another: a dog who appeared to be smiling. Lips pulled back, eyes and brow relaxed, maybe even tail wagging – of course that dog is smiling! Right?
The answer to whether dogs can smile or not depends on how we think about canine behavior – specifically the degree to which we project our human understanding of body language onto the behaviors of our dogs.
Dreamstime
A well-accepted theory among dog behavior experts is that dogs smile because they know we humans love it. We see our dogs lounging on the rug with their mouths hanging open, lips pulled back, looking utterly satisfied with themselves, and we go ga-ga with praise and pets. Dogs probably also observe their humans smiling at them and among themselves; they know people smiles are inherently positive (at the very least, benign), and that they can communicate amicability by miming that behavior.
Given the way we understand dog cognition, the notion that the smiling dog has learned to smile from people – and does so primarily for people – makes a lot of sense. We can think of dogs smiling in the way we consider some dogs to speak words: we reinforce our dogs when they make any noise resembling a word and they continue to do it, but only we have assigned meanings for those words. The semantics of any vocalization our dogs make is lost to them, yet they will still project their voices in highly specific ways because they know it will elicit a positive response.
Dreamstime
Is A Smiling Dog Really Smiling?
The Merriam-Webster English dictionary defines a smile (noun) as “a facial expression in which the eyes brighten and the corners of the mouth curve slightly upward and which expresses especially amusement, pleasure, approval, or sometimes scorn.” Human smiles can be involuntary, like when we experience a beautiful moment, or they can be entirely performative, like when we need a favor from someone we don’t like.
It’s safe to say that smiles are essential to the human body language vocabulary. We smile to manipulate other people as often and as naturally as we smile to connect with them. Why then shouldn’t dogs, who have spent the past fifteen millennia becoming masters of non-verbal communication with humans, be able to do the same?
Dreamstime
Submissive Grins
There are many canine facial expressions that may look like smiles to us. Sometimes the dog is just panting, with lips pulled back and mouth wide open; this is just an effort to move as much cooling air down his throat as possible – it’s not smiling! Some snarls may even look like a smile to someone (such as a small child) who is unaware of accompanying signs of a dog’s uneasiness (such as growling, looking away, a stiff body, still and upright tail, etc.).
But the most common expression that is mistaken for a smile is what behaviorists call a submissive grin. Characterized by teeth that are bared in a comical way that shouldn’t be mistaken for aggression, accompanied by lowered body posture, squinted eyes, and an upturned neck, submissive grins are interpreted by most people as the dog expressing happiness. Also known as an appeasement grin, this doggy facial expression actually signals deference and a desire to show that he’s not a threat.
Dreamstime
How to Train Your Dog to Smile
You can train your dog to “smile” on cue with some simple positive reinforcement. You would do this by “capturing” the behavior by using a consistent reward marker, such as the click of a clicker or the word “Yes!” every time your dog displays the smile, and immediately give her a reward. Then, begin using a cue at the times when you can reliably predict that she is about to offer the behavior, like when you first walk in the door from work. Say “Smile!” and when she displays the behavior, click and give her a treat!
Of course, having your dog’s smile on cue would not make it a genuine canine expression of happiness, but the love and attention your dog receives for performing smiles will make the behavior synonymous to happiness – and that is just as good.
You scream, we scream, but do dogs scream for ice cream? It’s cute (and Instagrammable) to see a pair of puppy paws wrapped around a rainbow-sprinkled ice cream cone, but can dogs eat ice cream or should pups stick to specialty dog ice cream treats?
Ice cream, of course, contains milk. And just like humans, some dogs (not all) are lactose-intolerant. If you feed milk to a lactose-intolerant dog, he may experience diarrhea, painful gas, or vomiting. Of course, ice cream is a treat, not a diet staple, so start by giving your dog no more than a spoonful, and wait for a day to see if he has any negative response to the frozen dessert. As long as he does not, he should be able to enjoy a prudent amount as an occasional treat.
Milk isn’t the only issue when it comes to feeding your pup ice cream. Sugar is another primary concern, especially as sugar is sometimes accompanied by xylitol, an artificial sweetener that can be lethal to dogs. Xylitol is a sugar substitute often found in chewing gum, mints, certain brands of peanut butter, toothpastes, and sugar-free pudding, yogurt, and Jell-O; it can also turn up in ice cream, so be sure to read the ingredients list.
Something else to take into consideration is the flavor of the ice cream you share with your dog. As many pet owners know, chocolate can be harmful to dogs, so choose other flavors.
Dog Ice Cream and Other Alternatives for Dogs
There are doggy-friendly alternatives to traditional ice cream made for humans. Frozen yogurt usually contains significantly less lactose than ice cream, making it a good alternative for dogs who show signs of being lactose-intolerant. Just be sure the one you choose is not saturated with sugar and sweeteners (also make sure it does not contain xylitol).
“Nice cream” is another good alternative. The vegan, homemade version of ice cream, “nice cream” is made by putting a frozen banana in a food processor along with the flavor of your choice.
Then there are the dog ice cream commercial products. There are two powdered dog ice cream “mixes” on the market (Pooch Creamery and Puppy Scoops); each requires that you add water, stir, freeze, and serve. FrostyPaws (Purina’s foray into doggie ice cream) is sold in some pet supply stores and grocery stores, but contains unnecessary additives like gelatin, soy flour, corn oil, salt, and maltodextrin and polydextrose (chemical sweeteners).
Often, going the homemade route is a better, healthier choice than commerical dog ice creams. If you’re looking to make your own dog ice cream at home with just a few, simple, healthful ingredients, the Humane Society offers a peanut butter pup-sicle recipe, or the tuna pops, PB&J smoothie pops, or frozen meatball recipes offered on Dog Treat Kitchen.
Best Ice Cream Flavors for Dogs
Flavors that are both non-toxic and yummy to dogs include: pumpkin, peanut butter, cinnamon, coconut, and banana. Carob chips are also a healthier alternative to chocolate chips and can be used not just to add as a decadent topping but to incorporate in the flavor as well (think peanut butter-carob ice cream).
Flavors to absolutely avoid include: chocolate, anything with raisins, chocolate-covered nuts, macadamia nuts, and anything that contains xylitol.
With temperatures heating up across the country, pupsicles are an easy and highly customizable treat that can entertain your dogs while keeping them cool and hydrated. Pupsicles don’t take the place of making sure your dog is drinking fresh water, but they are a fun way to add more hydration to your dog’s day. Here are a few easy popsicle recipes your dog is sure to enjoy.
Frozen Dog Treat Recipes
To make these frozen treats for your dog you will need a few ice cube trays. You can purchase variously sized silicone baking molds at craft and kitchen supply stores. These molds are inexpensive, easy to freeze, and a perfect way to make different sized treats.
Interactive– Frozen treats can be more than a tasty reward, they can actually be an enrichment toy for your dog. To make these giant interactive enriching popsicles, add items such as your dog’s favorite ball, toy rope, and other water-safe toys into large silicone freezable molds. Then fill with water, put the mold onto a cookie sheet, and place in your freezer overnight. Remove the giant popsicle from the mold and give to your dog. This interactive treat/toy combination will keep your dog busy eating their frozen treat and digging out the toys! Be warned; it’s also messy as it starts to melt, so give this jumbo pop to your dog outside in the yard.
Broth Treats: If your dog needs extra enticement, use chicken, beef or vegetable broth instead of, or mixed with water. Just make sure the broth you use doesn’t contain salt. Freeze the broth in ice cube trays or other silicone containers overnight. You can use this base to spice up the next two recipes as well.
Veggie Treats – To give your dog’s popsicles an added crunch, consider adding small slices of healthy, low-calorie vegetables like carrots and cucumbers to the broth.. You can either fully submerge the vegetables or leave them sticking out to encourage your dog to discover the veggies inside.
Sweet Frozen Treats – While sugar isn’t good for dogs, small quantities of some fruits are safe to share with your dog for sweet frozen treats. To make your dog a fruity popsicle get fresh pineapple, apples or blueberries. Cut up and then liquify fruit in a blender before freezing in ice cube trays overnight and serve to your dog.
Meaty Frozen Treats – To add an extra meaty flavor to your dog’s popsicles, you can add small pieces of unseasoned cooked meat into each ice cube compartment, and then top with either water or broth. Freeze and let your dog enjoy!
Creamy Popsicles – For a creamier treat, use blended bananas or peanut butter, on their own or mixed together. Pour or spoon the peanut butter and/or banana into trays that make very small treats, and freeze overnight. These bite-sized popsicles make great summer training treats, too.
Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author and Certified Trick Dog Instructor. Sassafras lives and writes in Brooklyn with her partner, a senior Chihuahua mix, a rescued Shepherd mix, Newfoundland puppy, two bossy cats, and a semi-feral kitten. Learn more at sassafraslowrey.com.
When a dog is suddenly no longer interested in their favorite activities, whether it’s playing Frisbee in the park or chasing squirrels in the backyard, most animal behavior experts will tell you to look for a physical explanation, not a mental-health recommendation. Taking your four-legged friend to the vet for a physical exam should always be the first response to what seems like depression. A change in behavior can usually be attributed to underlying physical conditions like arthritis or pain.
“Depression is typically more of a human term since it has a number of symptoms that have to do with how one feels…and we obviously can’t ask a dog how they’re feeling,” explains Dr. Brian J. Bourquin, veterinarian and owner of the Boston Veterinary Clinic. “However, they can certainly be diagnosed with conditions like Generalized Anxiety Disorder (GAD).”
Dr. Jill E. Sackman, head of the behavioral medicine service for BluePearl hospitals in Michigan, agrees that while there may not be a clinical diagnosis for depression in veterinary medicine, dogs who are considered depressed by their owners may appear withdrawn, less active, or disinterested in what’s going on around them. However, if your dog is suddenly showing any of these symptoms, she recommends making an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions. “If your dog used to jump up in the morning, gobble down his breakfast, andrun and play outside—and now he just wants to lay in his bed all day—you have to rule out any medical issues first,” she advises.
As humans, we may never know if a dog is truly depressed, but he may exhibit signs and behaviors similar to those associated with depression in people. According to Dr. Karen Sueda, a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior and veterinarian practicing at VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital in California, these may include lethargy or fatigue, increased sleepiness, loss of interest in activities they once enjoyed, lack of appetite, weight loss or weight gain, restlessness or agitation.
A change in behavior could indicate a number of factors; your dog may just be getting older, or he is reacting to a shift in his day-to-day routine. Sometimes significant changes like the addition of new pets to your home, your dog’s loss of mobility due to ageing, or a family member moving out can put real strain on your dog’s emotional health.
The Difference Between Depression and Anxiety in Dogs
Your dog may not necessarily be depressed, but instead dealing with more common behavioral conditions like fear or anxiety. “We’re asking a different species to live in a human environment and live by ‘human rules’ that they may not comprehend…so it’s understandable that this may lead to fear and anxiety if they don’t understand what we’re asking of them or why,” Dr. Sueda explains.
Signs of fear and anxiety in dogs may include physical indicators like dilated eyes or a tucked tail as well as behavioral signs like panting or trembling, and they may become hyper-vigilant towards their environment and more easily startled, she notes. More subtle signs include displacement behaviors such as lip licking, yawning, scratching, and sniffing that are being done out of context. “This is similar to a nervous person bouncing their leg, biting their nails, or playing with their hair when he or she is anxious,” she explains.
There are things dog lovers can do to help if their dogs seem depressed. Dr. Bourquin recommends seeking out a dog trainer who uses positive reinforcement instead of aversive techniques so as not to intensify your dog’s mental health condition (look for the credentials KPA, CCPDT, and/or this last one is the name of an organization, not the credential they offer).
At home, dog companions can work to create an environment that satisfies their dog’s needs, such as finding activities that engage them and establishing predictable routines—and when necessary, they can also turn to medications. “Lots of dogs need pharmacological help, such as Prozac. Many dog lovers are afraid to give drugs to their dogs, but when we’re talking about GAD, we’re not talking about a dog who gets stressed out when you leave the house…we’re talking about a dog who thinks their life is ending every time you pick up your car keys,” Dr. Bourquin concludes. “But there are definitely things you can do and medications you can offer your dog to get him over the hump.”
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
