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MRSA in Therapy Dogs: Preventing Transmission in Hospitals

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Here is a tale of two headlines that appeared on October 5, 2018. The first exclaimed, “Therapy Dogs Can Spread Superbugs to Children, Johns Hopkins Study Finds.” The second said, “Medical ‘Dog Wash’ Cuts Risk of MRSA Spread from Therapy Dogs: Pilot study of intervention in pediatric oncology ward shows promising results.” Only the first headline went viral – and that’s a shame, because only genuine, unsolvable risks ought to sideline therapy dogs and their handlers.

The stories came from a press conference held during “ID Week,” a meeting of the Infectious Diseases Society of America in San Francisco, co-sponsored by the Pediatric Infectious Diseases Society, the Society for Healthcare Epidemiology of America, and the HIV Medical Association.

Concerns Over Therapy Dogs Carrying Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus Aureus

As the conference reported, physicians at Johns Hopkins Hospital in Baltimore suspected that therapy dogs might pose an infection risk to patients with weakened immune systems, so they tested four therapy dogs (Pippi, Poppy, Badger, and Winnie) as they visited 45 patients ages two to 20 who were undergoing cancer treatment and who did not have Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus, or MRSA, the antibiotic-resistant infection feared by hospitals and nursing homes.

In different settings and sessions, the young patients petted, hugged, kissed, played fetch with, and brushed the dogs. “It’s amazing to watch just how excited the children get when they see the dogs for the first time,” says Johns Hopkins PhD candidate Kathryn Dalton, VMD, MPH. “The visits are really helpful in easing their anxiety and stress.”

As Dr. Dalton explains, “We wanted to explore the risk for a therapy dog to serve as a vector for the spread of hospital-associated pathogens, such as MRSA, to patients within a pediatric oncology clinic.”

hospital therapy dog

© Monkey Business Images / Dreamstime.com

Studying Therapy Dogs as Carriers for Bacteria

The therapy dogs and patients were examined over 13 visits in 2016 and 2017. During seven control visits, the dogs received “normal pre-visit practices,” which include bathing and grooming, and on arrival at the hospital the dogs were considered “generally clean of MRSA.” At the end of the visits, 10 percent of samples taken from patients tested positive for the bacteria, and so did nearly 40 percent of samples taken from the visiting dogs.

As Johns Hopkins public health researcher and veterinarian Meghan Davis, DVM, explained, “Our hypothesis is that it’s really person-to-person transmission, but it happened through contact with the fur.” Hospital protocols require therapy dogs to be bathed within a day of their visits and checked for wounds or other health problems. The children who see them are supposed to use hand sanitizer, but, according to Dr. Dalton, “That wasn’t strictly enforced.”

In preparation for the study’s final visits, the dogs were bathed with an antibacterial shampoo, and every five to 10 minutes during visits they were treated with antibacterial wipes. The shampoo and wipes contained chlorohexidine, which came into medical use in the 1950s and which is used around the world to disinfect skin, sterilize surgical instruments, and clean wounds. Dozens of chlorhexidine products are sold for canine use.

Results

Those simple disinfecting steps, which are said to “decolonize” harmful bacteria, dramatically decreased the dogs’ bacterial levels, says Dr. Dalton.

The patients who interacted closely with the dogs were six times more likely to become MRSA carriers than those who did not interact closely. But when the dogs were decolonized, the close-interaction group’s risk for becoming MRSA carriers was no different from the group of patients who did not interact closely with the dogs.

Dr. Dalton hopes further study will show that such cleaning can reduce any risk of superbug infections. “I really had the opportunity to see how important these dogs were to the patients,” she says. “After the sessions with the dogs, the kids would say how much this made their day.”

Genetic studies in companion animals have shown that they tend to carry strains of bacteria distributed in humans or that they pick up strains from their owners or people they come in contact with, explains Dr. Davis. However, the results of this study apply only to pet therapy animals in an immune-compromised population. “We don’t recommend that you run out and treat every dog or cat,” she says.

The press conference’s moderator, Chris Nyquist, MD, of Children’s Hospital Colorado in Aurora, says that pet therapy has been limited in oncology patients because of concerns about infection transmission. The research project’s positive results, she says, will make it possible to expand the therapy dog program. The study found that patients receiving pet visits had decreased blood pressure, decreased heart rates, and improved mental health scores after visits with the dogs.

“This innovation of cleaning the dogs so they don’t become a vector for transmission is really important,” says Dr. Nyquist. “For humans, it’s washing your hands. This is a way of washing the dogs and making them as safe as possible in a very vulnerable population.”

The Johns Hopkins team has received additional funding to do a larger study looking at this intervention method in multiple hospitals. “Ours is the first study to look at this novel intervention,” says Dr. Dalton. “If we can safely learn whether this can be used in other settings, we can increase safety to [more] patients.”

Documenting the Path of Infection

MRSA isn’t the only infection that concerns public health officials and hospital administrators. Clostridium difficile, usually abbreviated C. diff, is a highly contagious bacterium that causes diarrhea and life-threatening inflammation of the colon, and diseases such as influenza and norovirus can be transmitted through physical contact as well.

In 2005, the Journal of Hospital Infection reported that an 11-year-old Border Collie acquired MRSA in a general hospital in the United Kingdom after visiting elderly patients. Both dog and owner were asymptomatic and had no apparent source of MRSA, but swabs collected after the visit tested positive for MRSA.

The report concluded, “It is suggested that pet therapy dogs can acquire and spread MRSA … Further studies are required to assess carriage sites and prevalence of MRSA in pet therapy dogs and the potential risk to patients.”

The following year, the medical journal Infection Control and Hospital Epidemiology published a report on canine visits to hospital patients in Ontario, Canada. Sandra Lefebvre, DVM, a veterinarian and PhD candidate in population medicine at the University of Guelph in Ontario, led a research team that conducted a cross-sectional survey of 231 hospitals, 223 of which allowed dogs to visit. Some were registered therapy dogs and others belonged to hospital visitors.

Of the 90 dog owners included in the study, 18 said they did not practice any infection control, 66 allowed their dogs on patients’ beds, 71 let their dogs lick patients, and 36 were unable to name any zoonotic diseases that may be transmitted by dogs.

The study concluded, “Although canine-visitation programs have become standard practice in non-acute human healthcare facilities, infection control and dog-screening practices are highly variable and potentially deficient. Hospital staff, visitation groups, pet owners, and veterinarians need to work together to protect both people and pets.”

In May 2006, Dr. Lefebvre announced the results of a separate study in which 102 visitation dogs from across Ontario were checked for 18 specific pathogens, including S. aureus. Fifty-eight percent carried C. difficile bacteria; other pathogens detected in the dogs were Salmonella, multidrug-resistant E. coli, and Pasteurella spp. None of the dogs carried S. aureus or its MRSA strain.

In a May 2009 letter to the Journal of Hospital Infection in London, Dr. Lefebvre described a 2007 study in which therapy dog teams visited long-term and acute-care facilities. The dogs were tested before and after visits for MRSA and C. difficile, and both were transferred to the dogs. She concluded that in order to contain the transmission of pathogens through contact with pet therapy animals, all patients and handlers should follow recommended hand sanitation procedures.

“The problem lies in the fact that dogs can carry disease-causing germs and still look healthy,” says Dr. Lefebvre. “Dogs can also pick up bacterial strains that originate in hospitals and transfer them to people in the community on a day-to-day basis. Hand washing before and after handling dogs is probably the best way to avoid contacting a zoonotic organism. Hand sanitizers are readily available in hospitals and nursing homes, and since dogs can’t do anything, it just makes sense that people should take extra precautions. Placing a sheet on patients’ beds or laps to protect them from direct contact with the dog is also a good way to protect both patients and dogs.”

Intermountain Therapy Animals

Intermountain Therapy Animals

Dr. Lefebvre warns, however, “If there is any indication that a patient is infectious, that patient shouldn’t visit with a therapy dog in order to protect the people who handle the dog and to protect the dog.”

Despite the potential risk of transmitting illnesses directly or indirectly from dogs to humans, health officials and facility administrators are in no hurry to ban pet visits. As Heidi DiSalvo and fellow researchers concluded in their report “Utility of dogs in health care settings and infection control aspects” (American Journal of Infection Control, 2005), with careful planning and well-constructed policy guidelines, well-trained and healthy dogs can safely perform useful functions in therapy programs.

Researchers Sarah Brodie, Francis Biley, and Michael Shewring came to a similar conclusion in their 2002 article, “Exploration of the potential risks associated with using pet therapy in healthcare settings” in the Journal of Clinical Nursing. “A search of the literature has assessed potential and actual risk and concludes that the hazards are minimal,” they wrote. “The potential to suffer harm does exist, but it can be minimized by taking simple measures, including careful selection of animal and client, thorough planning and allocation of responsibility, rigorous health care of the animal, and informed practices by all involved.”

More recent reports in the medical literature show the same general result. Only a small number of studies listed at PubMed.gov in October 2018 mention infection risk while over 95 percent document the benefits of therapy dog visits to a variety of populations.

Infection Control in Therapy Dogs

Kathy Klotz, executive director of Intermountain Therapy Animals (ITA), headquartered in Salt Lake City, Utah, says infection prevention is a top priority for therapy dog organizations.

“ITA is committed to holding our teams to the very highest standards and in protecting the health and safety of our patients, our dogs, and our handlers,” she says. “We have always required that dogs visiting hospitals be freshly bathed, use an allergy deterrent, use barrier sheets on beds, and observe any and all additional requirements that a hospital may have. In the past few years we have instructed hospital teams not do any kind of ‘shake’ or ‘high 5′ interactions with patients in case the dogs’ paws pick up germs from the hospital floors.

“Those insidious germs are everywhere, outside the hospitals as well, so our handlers should take every precaution to make sure that they themselves are not affected by superbugs. Another concern for our hospital dogs is whether required disinfecting products could affect them adversely with constant use, and I am glad to know that our organization’s veterinarian considers 3-percent chlorohexidine disinfectants to be safe for this purpose.

“On a personal note,” she adds, “I wish that the media reporting on this study had focused less on the dire and scary parts and more on the balanced observations of the researchers themselves, who noted the importance of the dogs to the children’s well-being. But of course, I’m biased.”

Suggested Infection Control Guidelines

In March 2015, the Society for Healthcare Epidemiology of America (SHEA) published recommendations for policies regarding the use of animals in healthcare facilities, including animal-assisted activities, service animals, research animals, and personal pet visits to acute care hospitals. The guidelines were published in Infection Control & Hospital Epidemiology, the organization’s journal.

For animal-assisted activities (pet therapy visits), SHEA recommends that facilities develop a written policy for visits and designate an animal-assisted activity visit liaison; that animals and handlers be formally trained and evaluated; that infection prevention and control teams and clinical staff be educated about the program; that animal handlers have all required immunizations and prevent their animals from having contact with invasive devices; and that everyone who touches the animal practice hand hygiene before and after contact.

Protecting Visiting Therapy Dogs From Infection

MRSA is a concern to dog owners because it can infect and kill our best friends. It makes sense to help protect therapy dogs from not only MRSA but from any pathogens they might be exposed to during hospital or nursing home visits.

According to Mary G. Enig, PhD, an expert on dietary fats and oils, coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids inhibit the growth of many pathogenic microorganisms, including Staph bacteria. Coconut oil’s capryllic acid significantly reduces Salmonella and Campylobacter jejuni (another serious foodborne pathogen) when fed to chickens and other animals. In a 2005 study published in Molecular Cell Biochemistry (“Minimum inhibitory concentrations of herbal essential oils and monolaurin for gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria”) Dr. Enig tested two strains of S. aureus and found that monolaurin from coconut oil combined with the essential oil of oregano (itself a powerful disinfectant), worked better than the most potent antibiotic.

Intermountain Therapy Animals

Intermountain Therapy Animals

She wrote, “This research showed that these safe antimicrobial agents could be useful for prevention and therapy of Staphylococcus aureus and numerous other infections. It is now clear and scientifically validated that the inclusion of coconut oil in the diet could and should be utilized for its preventive and healing properties.”

Give up to 1/2 teaspoon daily to a dog weighing 10 pounds, 1 teaspoon to dogs weighing 25 pounds, 11/2 teaspoons to a dog weighing 50 pounds, or 21/2 teaspoons to a dog weighing 100 pounds. These quantities represent about five percent of caloric needs for all sizes. Start with smaller amounts and increase gradually.

Oregano essential oil can be given to dogs by placing drops in an empty two-part gel cap (available at natural food markets), closing the cap, and placing it in a small amount of food so that the dog swallows it whole. Dogs do not like the taste!

When buying, be sure the label says Origanum vulgaris, preferably wild-crafted or organic. Use 1 drop of oregano oil per 50 pounds body weight once or twice per day. For small dogs, dilute 1 drop essential oil in 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil and give 1/8 teaspoon per 10 to 15 pounds of the dog’s body weight.

The Johns Hopkins researchers studied decolonization with chlorohexidine, which is widely regarded as safe. However, some dogs develop skin irritation from its application, in which case microfiber cleaning cloths provide some protection, though their efficacy on therapy dogs remains untested.

Microfiber cleaning cloths are far more popular in Europe than in the U.S. Americans may be conditioned to consider disinfecting chemicals to be more effective than simple cloths that can be used dry or dampened with water. But research such as a 2016 study reported in the American Journal of Infection Control (“Improving operating room cleaning results with microfiber and steam technology”) and the July 2011 Journal of Hospital Infections (“Assessing the efficacy of different microfiber cloths at removing surface micro-organisms associated with healthcare-associated infections”) show that microfiber cloths can be an effective tool for reducing levels of MRSA, E. coli, C. difficile, and other pathogens on a variety of surfaces.

Rough-textured microfiber cloths made of polyester-polyamide were originally developed for “clean room” applications in the semiconductor industry. Used wet or dry, they attract and trap dust, dander, loose hair, and other particles. Microfiber fabric does not disinfect, but it picks up and removes bacteria, hair, and dander. Dogs can be wiped with clean microfiber cloths during therapy visits to minimize the transfer of potentially harmful bacteria from hands that pet them. Start with a clean folded cloth, wipe the dog with one side of the cloth, then fold it to expose a new surface for wiping later. The cloths can be microwaved or washed in hot water with bleach and dried in a hot dryer. Don’t use fabric softeners or dryer sheets, which reduce their effectiveness.

CJ Puotinen, who lives in Montana, has participated in animal-assisted therapy programs for 25 years. Her books include The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care.

The 7 Habits of Highly Effective Dog Owners

Almost 30 years ago, The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People by Dr. Stephen Covey was published for the first time. The self-help book went on to be called the “most influential business book of the 20th century.” To date, more then 25 million copies of the book have been sold.

As a small business owner, I found the book very enlightening and helpful, but I mostly found myself relating to Dr. Covey’s “7 habits” as things that would really help anyone who lived with and worked with dogs!

As a professional dog trainer, I get to work with people from all walks of life and the dogs they love. Interestingly, no matter who they are, what they do for a living, or what kind of dog they have, their issues are similar: They call me because they want their dog to stop doing “X.” Usually, they say they have “tried everything, but the dog just won’t listen.”

Author/trainer Tiffany Lovell

I love the opportunities I have to work with so many amazing dogs. But a lot of what I do comes down to coaching the dog’s owners on how to look at things differently to obtain a new outcome.

With Dr. Covey’s “seven habits for success in business” in mind, allow me to apply them to people who want a more successful relationship with their dogs.

1. Be proactive.

Much of the old-fashioned dog training we were exposed to growing up focused on waiting for the dog to make a mistake and then harshly correcting him. While most of us simply accepted this as “how you train a dog,” we were missing the bigger picture. This method never taught the dog what he was supposed to do in that situation the next time.

It doesn’t make sense to let an untrained dog loose in your house and then follow behind correcting him with “No! Don’t! Off! Stop! Get down! Quit that!” for every wrong decision he makes. It is much more effective and productive to take the time to teach this new family member how to act appropriately in your home.

In modern, science-based animal training we understand the importance of teaching the learner, in this case the dog, what to do by being proactive. To use the example above as what not to do when you bring your new dog or puppy home, start things off on the right foot by first showing your new family member where she is supposed to go potty – before you ever bring her indoors! Stay out there until she goes, and immediately reward her with treats and praise!

Then, instead of turning her loose in her new home, allow your new dog to have access to just one room or area in the house at first – a place where she won’t be able to make mistakes like jumping up on the bird cage, soiling a precious rug, or chewing up a family heirloom. Allow her to relax in an area where it’s safe to explore without being able to make any major mistakes and where her water, food, toys, and beds are located. Reward her for sitting politely as she meets each member of the family and each visitor to the home!

Dogs do what works for them and what’s safe for them. If you introduce behaviors that are safe for the dog and work for you both, your dog will begin to choose them naturally.

2. Begin with the end in mind.

To change an unwanted behavior, you first need to decide what you want your learner to do instead. It is very easy to say, “I want my dog to stop jumping” or “I don’t want my dog to bark at the mailman.” You need to turn that around and decide exactly what you’d rather have your dog do in those moments.

To modify the unwanted behavior, we must be able to picture the final goal. If your dog is jumping on guests, you would probably prefer that he sit politely instead. If your dog is barking, you may decide you want him to play with his toy or go to his bed while the mailman passes by. These are the finished behaviors you can have in mind so you know exactly what you’re going to teach your dog to do.

If you don’t have a goal in mind and you’re only focused on stopping a behavior, your dog will never learn what he’s supposed to do the next time a guest comes to visit or the mailman delivers a package. This will set up an endless cycle of wrong behavior, harsh correction, confused and scared dog, frustrated guardian. This cycle can be broken easily if you begin dealing with your dog with your end goal in mind.

3. Put first things first.

Prioritizing is a necessity in all aspects of our lives. Working with your dog is no exception. There will probably be several things you wish to change or work on with your dog, but certain ones should take precedent. Any behavior that is necessary to keep your dog and other family members safe should be a top priority. This could be teaching your dog to come when called because you live near a busy street. It may be working on creating positive associations for your dog with babies because you’re expecting. If you’ve recently brought home a new puppy, proper and humane socialization should be your number one priority due to the brief window of time puppies have to learn about their world and whether it’s safe.

Focus on teaching your dog whatever behaviors meet your immediate needs; usually, the rest can be handled with proper management such as baby gates, fences, a leash, stuffed food toys, etc. There is nothing wrong with using management to keep everyone safe and happy until you have a chance to work on that next issue with your dog.

4. Think win-win.

Always think in terms of mutual benefit when working with your dog. I doubt you added a dog to your family to spend the next 10 to 15 years in an adversarial relationship. Therefore, it’s not helpful to think in terms of dominating your dog or expecting your dog to spend his life trying to please you.

Instead, make the things you ask your dog to do just as beneficial for him as they are for you. Thankfully, this couldn’t be easier, since most dogs will gladly work for food, toys, praise, and/or petting.

Your relationship with your dog should be like any other in your family, built on mutual respect and love for one another. If you stop and consider how your dog must feel in a given situation – just as you would for your partner or child – you can then approach it in a way in which you both receive what you need in that moment: a win-win.

5. Seek first to understand, then to be understood.

Humans are quick to demand full and complete comprehension from our dogs. It’s surprising when you consider we expect this from an entirely different species – one that doesn’t speak our language! On the flip side, consider that dogs speak to us all day long with their ritualized body language. Sadly, the majority of humans have never learned this language.

Dr. Covey wrote in his book, “Seek first to listen with the intent to understand the thoughts and feelings of others, then seek to effectively communicate your own thoughts and feelings.”

We must remember that our dogs have their own thoughts and feelings and that the environment we subject them to affects both. If you cue your dog to sit or lie down while at the vet clinic or on a busy street corner and he doesn’t do it, it’s not because he is being stubborn. Your dog may be scared, anxious, or overwhelmed in this situation and feels that it would be unsafe or uncomfortable to sit or lie down. He is not defiantly disobeying your orders. He is responding to his instinct and emotions in the moment. Every one of us does this when we feel scared or threatened.

Learning how your dog communicates with his body means you care about this family member with whom you share your life. It also shows your dog that he can trust you to help him out of overwhelming moments and you will understand what he needs. What an amazing gift to be able to offer him!

6. Synergize.

This means recognizing your own strengths and celebrating the strengths of those around you. You may have adopted a dog because you thought it would be nice to visit nursing homes and cheer up people with a sweet, fluffy therapy dog. However, the dog you end up with might be full of energy and better-suited for an agility field.

Instead of seeing this as a failure in your dog’s ability to be a therapy dog, consider the amazing possibilities you could have doing something more active together. Perhaps this unexpected development will open up a new world to you, with like-minded friends and fun travel. (And perhaps your dog will grow to share your interest in providing comfort to people later in his life!)

Just as you would with a child, try meeting your dog where he is, accepting him for who he is today. Be open to discovering the wonderful gifts he can bring to your life right now.

7. Sharpen the saw.

There isn’t an individual on this planet that ever stops learning. In fact, learning is always taking place, even when we don’t realize it.

If you think of training a dog as something you do haphazardly (when you find the time) for the first few weeks he’s in your home, you will not be happy with the results. Alternatively, if you weave training into your everyday life with your dog, thinking of each brief interaction as a teaching moment, you will be amazed by the outcome. Your dog will receive clear and consistent messages from you in all types of settings and situations. This will allow him to develop into a calm, confident dog who truly understands what is expected of him and which behaviors are appropriate to choose on his own.

It’s not uncommon for someone to ask me, “How long will it take before my dog is trained?” The truth is, there really isn’t an answer to this question because there should not be an “ed” on the end of the word train. As long as we are alive, learning is always happening and none of us is ever fully “trained.”

Instead of being disappointed by this and thinking that you will have to train your dog for the rest of his life, I encourage you to flip that narrative and become excited about the opportunity to share a mutual journey in learning alongside each other – a journey that builds a bond like no other.

How to Keep Dogs Off Furniture – If You Want To

I woke up at 6 a.m., stretched and glanced down to see Kai the Kelpie comfortably curled up on the corner of my bed under his blanket. My husband Paul had left for work an hour earlier, so Kai and I got in a little exclusive snuggle time before he would have to share my attention with Sunny, the Pomeranian-mix newcomer to our family. Sunny was still happily snoozing upside down on his bed in an exercise pen; he’s not yet earned the nighttime freedom that would give him all-night access to our bed.

As you might have guessed, we are perfectly comfortable with dogs on our furniture much of the time, as long as they play by our rules.

Downstairs, in dog territory, Kai and Sunny both have open invitations to get on the living room sofa and recliners, but are not allowed on dining room chairs or, of course, tables, desks, or counter tops. They pretty much have free range of the first floor, unless we are going to be away from the house for an extended period, in which case they are baby-gated in my office. At any given time, we might find a dog on a dog bed, in a crate, or on the sofa or a recliner. In a culture where we tend to give our dogs very few opportunities to make choices, it’s nice to be able to give them this one.

Should You Let Dogs on the Furniture?

Of course, if you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s perfectly okay too – it’s up to you – there’s no right or wrong here!

I personally love a dog on my lap or under my arm when I’m sitting on the sofa. Not only do I enjoy the cuddling, I also get cold easily and love the warmth of dog bodies next to me. In our home, we keep the furniture covered with blankets for easy removal when company comes (dog hair begone!) and both dogs are taught to get off and/or stay off when asked to do so.

If you prefer your dogs to stay on the floor, then just teach them that’s where they are supposed to be, using appropriate management and force-free training methods.

How to Keep Dogs Off Furniture

Manage Your Dog’s Furniture Access

In this case, “management” means preventing your dog from having any opportunity to do what you don’t want her to do. If you don’t want your dog to be on the sofa when you are not home, take steps to prevent her from being able to get on the sofa! It’s that simple!

To this end, some people remove the cushions from their sofa (or flip them up) when they leave their homes, until their dog has developed the habit of sleeping elsewhere. Others put boxes on the sofa to block the dog’s access, or use a baby gate to keep the dog out of the room.

Some dogs are simply seeking the most comfortable place to sleep that they have access to. If it’s comfort that she’s seeking, you could look for a much cushier dog bed and prevent her access to the sofa until she learns that her new bed is wonderful.

I have at least one client who actu-ally bought a second (small) sofa for the dog. This way she can cuddle with the dog when she wants on the dog sofa and keep her human sofa pristine.

Just like we don’t tell dogs they can never go to the bathroom (instead, we teach them that it’s okay to eliminate in this place, but not that one) we can easily teach our dogs that it’s okay to lie on this sofa but not that one.

Teach Your Dog Furniture Rules

If you are comfortable with allowing your dog to get on the furniture any time she likes, you probably have but to invite her up, and praise her when she obliges. If she’s been previously reprimanded for getting on the sofa it may take a little more encouragement to convince her that now it’s okay, but it shouldn’t be too difficult.

If, however, you want her to get on the furniture only when you have cued her to do so, and to get off the furniture also on cue, you will have to teach her those behaviors. This is called “putting the behavior under good stimulus control” (she does it only when asked).

Again, teaching a dog to get up on the furniture is usually pretty simple. Use a cue (such as “Up!”) when you invite her onto the bed. Lure her up if necessary. When she’s up, mark the behavior with the click of a clicker or verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!” and give her a treat. Then say “Off!” and toss a tasty treat on the floor. When she jumps off to get it, click again, and she can get the treat off the floor.

After several repetitions of this, start “fading” the lures, by giving the “Up” or “Off” cue and then waiting a few seconds to see if she does the requested behavior. If she doesn’t, motion suggestively but don’t toss the treat on the floor or actually lure her onto the bed. When she responds, click and treat. Gradually reduce the suggestive movement until she’s doing the “Up” and “Off” behaviors on verbal cue only.

Next, start alternating other forms of reinforcement. If you click you must feed the treat, but occasionally skip the click and treat, just praising instead, or giving her a scratch behind the ear, or inviting her outside for a game of fetch.

So what should you do if she hops up on the furniture when you have not asked her to do so? In order for this to work, you also will need to train and reinforce her generously for a behavior that is incompatible with being on the furniture, such as lying on a comfortable mat nearby. Cue her to do that whenever she looks like she might jump up on the furniture without invitation – and make sure she gets reinforced for getting on the sofa only when she does it “on cue” (when she has been invited).

pet steps

If you don’t want your dog to be on the furniture at all, teach and reinforce the incompatible behavior, and never invite her up or reinforce her for getting up on the furniture. Of course, the whole family has to be on board with this; if one family member invites/allows/reinforces her for getting on the sofa, you can’t expect her to stay off!

And to repeat myself, whether you want her to have no access to the furniture or access by invitation only, you will need to manage the environment to prevent her from getting up uninvited when unsupervised, until you are confident that she is fully trained.

But “She Knows Better!”

If your dog “knows” she’s not supposed to get on the sofa, and she never gets on it while you’re home, but you come home from work to find dog hair on the cushions, it’s not because she’s being “sneaky” or disobedient.

You think you taught her not to get on the sofa. But what you really taught her was that it’s not safe or at least “not okay” to get on the sofa while you are home because you will yell at her, or otherwise “correct” her in some manner. She has discovered that it’s perfectly okay to get on the sofa when you’re not home because no one tells her to get off, nothing bad happens, and by the way, the sofa is way more comfortable than the floor or the thin blanket you gave her to lie on in her crate!

Rather than being annoyed or angry with her for being “sneaky,” you might, instead, admire her intelligence and problem-solving ability – and take steps to prevent her access to the sofa when you are not home.

Aggressive About Furniture?

What if your dog displays aggressive behavior when she’s on the bed or sofa? Often I hear from owners who allow their dogs on the furniture, but who become understandably upset when their dogs “act out” when they are comfortably ensconced – perhaps the dog growls or snaps at the husband when he attempts to join his wife in bed, or when a human tries to remove her dog from the couch.

This is the rare situation where I do recommend revoking the dog’s bed privileges unless and until the behavior is successfully modified. Again, it’s up to you: You don’t necessarily have to prohibit her from ever getting on the bed (or other furniture), but you should have a way to peacefully remove her from furniture when you need her to get off, and ultimately it only makes sense for her to learn to peacefully accept people approaching the furniture.

To accomplish these basic achievements, I recommend the following tactics (in addition to teaching your dog the “Up!” and “Off!” cues):

■ Institute a “Say Please” Program.

“Say Please” simply means teaching your dog to ask for all good things by sitting first. When your dog learns to sit for good stuff, she learns to be more deferent. “Want a cookie?” She needs to sit first. “Want to go outside?” Then sit first. “Want your dinner bowl?” Sit first. “Want me to throw the ball?” Sit first. You get the idea.

If status is part of what’s motivating your dog’s aggression on the furniture, convincing him to be voluntarily more deferent to you by sitting for good stuff can help modify the guarding behavior. However, you’ll still need to do some modification work.

■ Counter-Conditioning Protocol.

Dogs who growl at someone approaching them when they are on the furniture do so because something about that approach is stressful for them. If you can change the dog’s association with, and her emotional response to, the person approaching, she will change her behavior.

If she growls at you when she’s on the bed, arm yourself with a pouchful of very tasty treats. (These days, my preferred treat for counter-conditioning is chicken strips; I buy them in the freezer section of the grocery store and thaw them as needed.) With your dog on the bed, walk casually past and toss a few bits of chicken to her on the bed. (You’re not asking her to get off the furniture in this exercise.)

If she growls at you anyway, walk past at a greater distance, and toss chicken. Don’t make eye contact with her. Continue to walk by the bed, back and forth, tossing treats each time you pass, until your dog happily anticipates your approach.

Then gradually decrease distance, and, assuming you still see your dog look happy when you pass by, start making your approaches more direct, until you can walk right up to her and get a happy “Where’s my chicken!” expression. This replaces her negative stress association to your approach and her aggression with eager anticipation, as she realizes that your approach means she’s about to receive some treats.

If she’s growling at someone else approaching you in the bed, again, arm yourself with chicken and ask the person to stand at a distance where the dog sees him but isn’t growling. That may mean totally out of the bedroom! Have the person take one step toward you, and immediately start feeding chicken to your dog; don’t wait for a growl. After several treats, have the person step back, and stop feeding.

Repeat this process until your dog looks happy – and looks to you for chicken – as the person takes one step forward. Then, with the person at the same starting spot, have him take two steps forward. Repeat until the person can approach the bed without any sign of tension from your dog. Then have him do the walk-by chicken-tossing procedure described above.

■ Consider Operant Conditioning.

As an alternative to classical counter-conditioning, you could teach your dog a new behavior when someone approaches the bed, with the goal of changing her emotional response and behavior at the same time. This procedure is called “Constructional Aggression Treatment,” or C.A.T. If you decide you want to try this approach, I urge you to work with someone who is skilled at reading dog body language and understands the C.A.T. procedure, since its success depends on the observer’s ability to identify very small changes in your dog’s body language.

In this process, you would move toward your dog on the bed. As soon as you see any small sign of tension, you would stop and just stand still. Wait there until you see a small sign of relaxation, then move away. As you repeat the procedure, your dog learns that being relaxed makes you go away, so she becomes more and more relaxed. As her behavior changes and she becomes deliberately relaxed, the change in her emotional response follows.

It can work, but it can be a little tricky to see the body language changes. You definitely need an experienced helper for this one.

If Your Dog Growls When She’s on the Furniture

I commend any dog owner who commits herself to improving her dog’s behavior, but recognize that it might take a little time for the improvement to “stick.” Until your dog’s new behavior is reliable, here’s what to do if your dog growls at you or your partner when she is on the couch or bed: Calmly stop whatever you were doing, be still, and wait a few moments until the dog relaxes a little. Then invite her off the bed with her “Off!” cue (or a tossed treat as a lure, if she hasn’t yet learned the cue) to defuse the current situation. Then start or increase your efforts at a management and modification plan.

Here’s what not to do: Don’t physically punish or attempt to verbally intimidate your dog. There’s absolutely nothing to be gained by aggressing back when she growls at you.

That’s so important I’ll say it again. Do not punish your dog for growling. Punishment is likely to make her behavior worse, because your aggression will add to the stress that’s making her behave aggressively. It’s your job, as a member of the supposedly more-intelligent species, to figure out how to remove stress from the situation for your dog.

A Note of Caution

If your dog’s growling or other furniture-related aggression is intense, if you are trying to work with it and not making progress, or if someone has been bitten, please seek the assistance of a qualified positive behavior professional. If you’re afraid of your dog’s behavior, don’t attempt any of the tactics below without professional assistance.

Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor.

Become A Dog Trainer

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Tell the truth: How many of you got a dog even partly because you love training dogs soooo much and you couldn’t wait to devote hours every week to dog training? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

whole dog journal editor nancy kerns

Actually, you guys probably skew the results a bit; I would hazard a guess that people who pay for a subscription to a dog magazine are more interested in training and behavior than most dog owners.

But my point is, the average dog owner doesn’t get a dog because they are so excited and eager to study learning theory, compare classical and operant conditioning, and test the relative value of various reinforcement schedules. Few people who get a dog look forward to practicing their leash-handling skills and refining the subtleties of treat delivery timing and placement.

No, most people get dogs because they want to enjoy canine companionship! They get a dog to walk with and talk to, nap with, play with the kids, or guard the house or property. Most people intellectually understand that it will take some time and a little effort to teach their new dogs the new house rules. But it seems that very few people remember or realize how much time it really takes to teach a dog everything she needs to know in order to live in a human’s home in a human society, without making any errors that could result in the loss of said home. And nobody anticipates ending up with a dog with serious behavioral issues! Few people are prepared when their new dog or puppy develops separation anxiety, canine compulsive disorder, a pathological fear of children, or a dangerous aggressive response to the sight of other dogs.

And yet, our dogs depend on our ability to train them and to take appropriate and effective action if they develop behaviors that are in conflict with the home, schedule, and family we have imposed on them. If we fail to succeed in our new roles as amateur dog trainers and their behavior becomes problematic for our family (say, growling at Grandma or the baby), or neighbors (barking all day), or the dog they just met at the park (where an off-leash dog runs up too fast and our dog badly bites the other dog in the melee that results), they could lose their homes or even their lives.

So, even though I am a total geek about learning theory and behavior analysis and absolutely anything having to do with teaching dogs and humans to enjoy and understand each other better, I understand that not all dog owners are up for all that. My goal, and that of Whole Dog Journal‘s Training Editor Pat Miller and all of our contributing writer/trainers, is to help you understand how to teach stuff to your dogs, in the simplest, most effective, and most enjoyable way possible – with a sprinkling of nice, modern behavioral science and theory thrown in for our fellow training nuts.

Bloat: The Mother of All Canine Emergencies

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Canine bloat is a common and frequently lethal health emergency.
Raised feeders became popular on the strength of anecdotal evidence that they helped reduce the incidence of bloat; studies have since shown that their use can actually cause bloat.

No word strikes fear into the hearts of dog owners like bloat. It is a fairly common occurrence and requires immediate intervention and surgical treatment. But what exactly is it? And what should you do if you suspect that your dog is suffering a bloat?

Bloat is the nontechnical term for gastric dilatation and volvulus (GDV), a condition in which the stomach rotates around itself to become twisted. The stomach can twist halfway (a 180-degree torsion), all the way leading to a 360-degree torsion, or anywhere in between. Once twisted, the stomach becomes stuck, and fluid and gas cannot exit. A dog cannot vomit, as the entrance to the stomach (the cardia) is obstructed, and nothing can leave the stomach via the intestines, because the exit (pylorus) is also blocked.

Due to this twisting, the stomach rapidly fills with fluid and gas, leading to abdominal distention. As the stomach quickly expands, blood vessels supplying it rupture and lead to hemorrhage. The massive stomach pushes on the diaphragm, making it hard for the dog to breathe. It also causes pressure on the caudal vena cava, which brings deoxygenated blood from the body back to the heart. Without blood circulating, shock occurs rapidly.

Bloat Symptoms in Dogs

The symptoms of bloat are classic and include restlessness, discomfort, pacing, abdominal distention, gagging, salivating, and non-productive retching.

great dane
Great Danes are kind of the poster dogs for GDV; about one in every three will experience this life-threatening emergency sometime in his or her lifetime, unless a prophylactic gastropexy surgery is performed.Photo by Dreamstime.com

The earliest signs may be as subtle as increased drooling and pacing/restlessness. Frequently, this occurs soon after a meal, especially if the meal is followed by exercise. Certain breeds are more likely to develop bloats such as Great Danes, Standard Poodles, and Dobermans, but any breed can bloat. Sex does not seem to be related.

Bloat is an immediate emergency. The longer the stomach stays twisted, the more damage is done. If twisted long enough, the stomach tissue will die and rupture, leading to spillage of stomach contents into the abdomen.

If you suspect your dog is bloated, an emergency trip to the veterinarian is a necessity. Do not wait overnight to see your veterinarian in the morning. The sooner that GDV is addressed, the better the chances for recovery.

At the Veterinary Clinic

When you arrive, the technical staff should take your dog directly to the treatment area for examination. Bloat can often be determined based simply on signalment (age and breed) and physical examination. The belly will be tight and tympanic (meaning like a drum).

To confirm the diagnosis, your veterinarian may take a right lateral abdominal x-ray. This will reveal a classic “double bubble” – a folded, compartmentalized stomach. They are often called “Smurf hats” or “Popeye arms” because of their characteristic appearance.

Time is of the essence, so your veterinarian will treat your dog immediately. A quick physical exam generally will reveal the following abnormalities: an elevated heart rate, panting or fast breathing, a tight, drum-like abdomen, and abdominal pain.

An IV catheter will be placed to administer fluids and correct shock. Pain medications are needed as soon as possible and may include an opioid such as hydromorphone, morphine, or fentanyl.

As your veterinarian and the technical staff work to stabilize your dog, they will also conduct diagnostic testing. This will include bloodwork to evaluate for internal organ damage, as well as checking blood pressure. In a specialty setting, it’s likely that the veterinarian will also check coagulation factors (your dog’s ability to clot) and blood lactate levels.

Lactate has been extensively studied in GDV. It is produced as a backup source of energy in the body. Lactate is always being produced, but in shock, when oxygen levels are decreased, lactate production is much higher. It can be measured with a hand-held device much like a blood glucose monitor. Many studies have been done to evaluate how helpful this is in determining outcome in GDV patients. Currently, it is thought that a high lactate level that decreases with IV fluids and surgery is a good indication for recovery.

great dane abdominal xray
A right lateral x-ray is the most common view for a suspected bloat, and this one shows a classic “double bubble” or “Smurf hat.” The stomach is dilated with gas and folded on itself, forming two distinct compartments, shaped like a Smurf hat. This is an eight-year-old Great Dane with the classic signs of GDV: pacing, restlessness, retching, bloated abdomen.

GDV often occurs in older dogs, so your veterinarian also may recommend three-view chest x-rays to evaluate for the presence of any abnormalities. One study showed that 14 percent of dogs with GDV have concurrent aspiration pneumonia, likely from gagging and inhaling drool and watery stomach fluid that can escape the twisted stomach. Many GDV patients are older, and three-view x-rays can also evaluate for metastatic cancer that would make the surgery prognosis poorer. This recommendation is dependent on the vet who treats your dog. Any delay in surgery can be detrimental to your dog, so in cases of elderly dogs (greater than eight years of age) in particular, this recommendation must be weighed carefully.

Stomach Decompression for Dogs

Before surgery, your veterinarian will likely try to decompress the stomach – that is, relieve the gas buildup in the stomach. This can be done in one of two ways. The first is to pass a tube down the esophagus into the stomach – an older but still accepted method. It can often be done in an awake patient. This rapid decompression can help buy time for the twisted stomach. In some rare cases, passing a tube can untwist the stomach, but the procedure also poses the risk of puncturing through the twisted stomach entrance (cardia).

Another method of decompression is called trocarization. In this technique, large gauge needles are inserted through the skin into the stomach to relieve the air. This is currently the more commonly used approach because it is quick, doesn’t require multiple staff members, and can be very effective. It poses a much lower risk to the dog, but is not without risk altogether: it’s possible to lacerate the spleen during this procedure.

There is a great video online of a veterinarian performing trocarization on a Bernese Mountain Dog with GDV.

Surgery for Bloat

The goal in a GDV is to stabilize the patient as quickly as possible before surgery. A GDV can be successfully treated only with surgical intervention. This often puts the veterinarian and owner in a very difficult spot. Decisions must be made quickly and with decisiveness to allow for the best outcome. GDV surgery can be very costly, and most dogs will remain in the hospital for two to three days post-operatively. The prognosis is dependent on each dog and how long the torsion has been present. In general, survival rates for the surgery are high.

Your veterinarian will take your dog to surgery as soon as possible. This should not be done until the patient is as stable as can be expected. To some extent, full treatment of shock is impossible until the stomach is de-rotated in surgery. The patient’s condition should be optimized. This means stabilizing blood pressure, bringing heart rate down to normal or near normal, controlling pain, and decompressing the abdomen either via stomach tube or trocarization.

In surgery, your veterinarian will open the abdomen, identify the twisted stomach, and then de-rotate it. Once de-rotated, the stomach is checked for damage. In some cases, part of the stomach tissue has died and must be removed. The spleen will be checked next. It lies alongside the stomach and shares some blood vessels. When the stomach twists, the spleen does as well. Damage to those blood vessels can lead to a damaged spleen. In some cases, the spleen must also be removed.

Once the stomach and spleen are addressed, the stomach is sutured to the right body wall. This is called a gastropexy. This will prevent the stomach from rotating again in 90 percent of cases. However, in about 10 percent of cases, a dog can still develop a bloat. It is imperative to always monitor your dog for the symptoms of bloat, even when they have undergone gastropexy.

There are several different techniques for gastropexy. The most common is the incisional. This is when an incision is made into the outer layer of the stomach (serosa) and a matching one made on the wall of the body. The two are then sutured together, holding the stomach in place.

Surgery generally lasts about an hour to an hour and a half.

Post-Operative Care

Most dogs will remain hospitalized for one to three days after surgery. Post-operative care will include IV fluids to maintain hydration, pain relief, and close monitoring. Complications can include arrhythmias, hemorrhage, and infection. In some cases, a syndrome called systemic inflammatory reaction syndrome (SIRS) can occur. Disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC), a massive and fatal collapse of the ability of the body to clot blood, can also occur.

raised dog food bowls may cause bloat
Raised feeders became popular on the strength of anecdotal evidence that they helped reduce the incidence of bloat; studies have since shown that their use can actually cause bloat.

Patients should be monitored around the clock after surgery, preferably at an emergency and/or referral hospital. Not all veterinary hospitals have staff on duty all night, so be sure to ask your veterinarian if this is something that will be available, or whether a transfer to a clinic with a night staff is possible.

Excellent attention to recovery is important. This will include monitoring of heart rate and rhythm (by ECG), temperature, and comfort level. Most patients are fasted for about eight to 12 hours after surgery. They are then offered a bland, easily digestible diet.

Arrhythmia and Bloat in Dogs

It is very common for a dog that has GDV to suffer from arrhythmias during or after surgery.

The most common are ventricular tachycardia and slow idioventricular rhythm. The ventricles are the lower chambers of the heart. When a dog goes into shock, the heart muscle becomes irritable and can develop irregular beats, particularly in the ventricles. Tachycardia occurs when the heart rate is faster than 150-160 beats per minute. When the heart rate is normal but the rhythm is abnormal, this is a slow idioventricular rhythm.

In most cases, these resolve within a week without specific treatment. If the arrhythmia persists, it is important to have the heart evaluated by a cardiologist. Since Great Danes in particular are prone to both GDV and cardiomyopathies, concurrent heart disease could be present.

Bloat Prevention

Much research has been devoted to this topic. The causes for GDV are poorly understood. At various times, an array of different recommendations have been made to prevent bloat, including the use of raised food dishes, the avoidance of raised food dishes, avoiding exercise after meals, and feeding smaller, more frequent meals rather than one large meal. More recent research has identified a possible link between motility disorders and GDV. At this time, unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules for preventing bloat.

Prophylactic gastropexy is strongly recommended for the highest risk breed, the Great Dane, as some estimates show one in three will experience GDV. This can be done at the time of spay for females. It can also be done laparoscopically for males at practices that offer this modality.

Standard Poodles, Rottweilers, Irish Setters, and Weimaraners are also considered at-risk breeds for which prophylactic gastropexy should be considered. In other breeds, the benefits versus risks of preventative gastropexy are less clear. But one thing is certain:

No matter what type of dog you own, if you observe the classic symptoms of bloat – restlessness, discomfort, pacing, abdominal distention, gagging, salivating, and non-productive retching – you need to get your dog to a veterinary emergency room ASAP.

Mesenteric Volvulus: A Diagnostic Puzzle

While less common than GDV, mesenteric volvulus is a similar condition that requires immediate veterinary care and can be deadly in a matter of hours. For owners of German Shepherd Dogs and Pit Bulls (the most predisposed breeds) it is especially imperative to know about this condition.

With a mesenteric volvulus, the small intestines twist at their origin (called the root of the mesentery). This leads to obstruction of blood flow and death of the upper GI tract. The cause of MV is unknown. There seems to be an association with exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI) in which the pancreas does not produce digestive enzymes. However, this has been shown in only one study. Other causes have not been identified.

The symptoms are frequently very sudden in onset and include vomiting, extremely bloody diarrhea, abdominal pain and distention, and collapse in a dog that was previously normal. The gums will be pale, and the heart rate and breathing rapid. The abdomen may be distended and extremely painful. An emergency trip to the veterinarian is warranted. Do not wait!

Unfortunately, these symptoms present a diagnostic dilemma for the veterinarian. Acute collapse can represent several conditions including Addisonian crisis, anaphylaxis, and acute hemorrhagic diarrhea syndrome. If mesenteric volvulus is not identified within one to two hours, death often results. Therefore, if your dog exhibits these symptoms, your veterinarian should conduct treatment and diagnostics immediately.

Treatment for Mesenteric Volvulus

Initial treatment and testing should happen simultaneously when possible. An IV catheter will be placed to administer fluids and correct shock (manifested by low blood pressure, high heart rate, and rapid breathing). Oxygen may also be given by face mask or nasal prongs. MV is an extremely painful condition, so pain medications should be given.

Your veterinarian should also be conducting diagnostics at the same time. X-rays and/or ultrasound of the abdomen are critical in diagnosing MV. Bloodwork should also be done concurrently to evaluate internal organ function, as well as determine the severity of shock and to rule out other diseases. Most MVs are readily apparent on x-ray, but this is not always the case. Ultrasound also can be helpful.

Surgery for Mesenteric Volvulus

The treatment for mesenteric volvulus is immediate surgery. Even with prompt surgery, the prognosis is extremely guarded for survival. While the stomach can be twisted for hours in a GDV and the patient recover, the intestines do not tolerate the lack of blood flow for long. As a result, the veterinarian must intervene quickly and decisively.

This can lead to a hard decision for both owners and veterinarians. The diagnosis often cannot be definitively made on x-rays and ultrasound. It can be heavily suspected based on clinical signs, breed, and testing, but until the doctor performs surgery, it is not always a certainty. As a result, owners are often forced to make a major decision with an ambiguous diagnosis and recovery. Like any major emergency surgery, it is expensive. MV surgery and post-operative care can cost several thousand dollars. This is an excellent example of why it is important that you have a close and trusting relationship with your veterinarian, as well as an emergency fund and/or pet insurance, which can help offset the cost and stress in the case of MV.

If mesenteric volvulus is suspected, your dog will undergo rapid emergency surgery to de-rotate the intestines. If too much damage has occurred and the intestines cannot be saved, a resection and anastamosis (removal of intestines and sewing ends together) can sometimes be done. However, in some cases, the damage is too extensive, and euthanasia is necessary.

Post-operatively, the patient will likely be hospitalized for several days and undergo careful monitoring. After surgery, complications such as sepsis, systemic inflammatory response syndrome, disseminated intravascular coagulation, and organ failure can occur. Thus, it is imperative that patients are observed closely after surgery. Complications can occur for several days to a week afterward.

Mesenteric volvulus carries a very guarded prognosis for recovery. It is critical that owners of German Shepherds and American Pit Bull Terriers be aware of the symptoms and act rapidly if they are noted.

Are Dogs More Fearful Than They Used to Be?

You can see from this dog’s body language that he is enjoying the opportunity to play ball. This happy frame can help him maintain his equilibrium in the reasonable presence of a scary stimulus.

An increasing percentage of clients are bringing dogs to me for help with fear-related behaviors. Many of my fellow behavior professionals agree: They, too, are seeing more fearful dogs than they used to.

The increase in clients seeking help could be because more people are realizing that it might be possible to modify their dogs’ fearful behaviors.

However, it might also be because more shelters and rescue groups are rehoming fearful dogs who, in the past, would have been euthanized as “not adoptable.”

Many of us trainers also have been called upon to help owners with extremely undersocialized and fearful dogs imported from elsewhere, such as the Chinese and Korean meat-market dogs and “street dogs” brought here from Puerto Rico, Mexico, and elsewhere.

Whatever the reason for the seeming increase in the population of fearful dogs, good behavior professionals will do their best to help these dogs (and their humans) have a better quality of life – and there definitely are things that can help.

Differentiating Between Fear, Phobia, and Anxiety

In order to successfully modify fear-related behaviors, it’s important to understand the difference among the closely related behaviors of fear, phobia, and anxiety.

fearful dog
This formerly feral dog is obviously still quite fearful, as evidenced by his pinned-back ears, pulled back commissure (corners of his mouth), wide eyes, stress lines in his face, body posture (lowered and behind-the-vertical), and tucked tail. Dogs who are this fearful are likely to be lifetime projects, and “love” alone isn’t enough to fix them.

Fear is defined as an unpleasant emotion caused by the belief that someone or something is dangerous, likely to cause pain, or a threat. Most of us who have had dogs with fear issues (or are fearful ourselves) can agree, especially with the “unpleasant emotion” part. We tend to think of fear as a bad thing, but fear is also a life-preserving response to physical and emotional danger. If we didn’t feel fear, we would likely fail to protect ourselves from certain threats.

Phobia is an exaggerated, persistent, excessive fear of a particular object, class of objects, or situation. Common canine phobias include loud noises (thunder, gunshots, fireworks, household sounds), intense fear of humans, and riding in cars.

Anxiety is the anticipation of future dangers from unknown or imagined origins that result in normal body reactions (known as physiologic reactions) associated with fear. Fears and phobias occur in the presence of the emotion-causing stimuli, but dogs who are anxious present emotional and physiological fear responses even in the absence of the stimulus.

Of the three “shades” of fearful behaviors, the best prognosis is for dogs dealing with fear. At least we’re working with something real and present, rather than something exaggerated or imagined! A fearful dog may have significant behavioral responses, including a lowered body posture, trembling, salivating, hiding, fleeing, growling, snapping, biting, shutting down, and more.

Phobias and anxieties can also manifest in these behaviors, but also may include more extreme panicked responses such as jumping through windows, chewing through walls, urinating, defecating, and worse. Dogs with true phobias and anxieties often require pharmaceutical intervention before any modification efforts can even begin to be successful. (See “What About Drugs?” below.)

If you think your dog’s emotional responses go beyond fear into phobia or anxiety territory, please seek the help of a qualified behavior professional and a behavior-savvy veterinarian.

What About Drugs?

As a non-veterinary behavior professional, it is inappropriate for me to suggest specific behavior modification drugs to my clients or to our WDJ readers. Medication can and does have a vital role in behavior modification, however, and I have – on many occasions – suggested that my clients discuss behavior medications with their veterinarians. Here’s the rub: Most veterinary schools don’t require their students to take a single course in behavior, and the field of behavioral medicine is a complex one that most vets know very little about.

Here’s the solution. There are now about 70 veterinary behaviorists in the U.S., and many of them will generously do phone consults with general practitioners to help guide appropriate selection and dosage of behavior medications. Some offer this service to other veterinarians for free, others charge a reasonable fee for their time.

In any case, when I do ask my clients to discuss medications with their vets, I urge them to ask their veterinarian to take advantage of this service in order to ensure they are getting the best advice regarding pharmaceuticals. This helps to avoid the bad experiences some clients have (“the drug turned my dog into a zombie, or made her worse”) when well-meaning but uninformed veterinarians select an inappropriate medication or an improper dosage.

A complete list of board-certified veterinary behaviorists can be found here. If medication is in the cards for your fearful dog, urge your veterinarian to make use of this resource.

Preventing Fear in Dogs

My students have all heard me say this before: “We’re always better off preventing unwanted behaviors than we are trying to fix them.” Here’s another of my favorites: “Behavior is always a combination of genetics and environment.” A good fear-prevention program recognizes both – hence the importance of breeding behaviorally solid dogs as well as proper puppy socialization. Of course, you will also need to diligently protect your dog from traumatic events throughout her life.

If you raise two puppies – one genetically confident, one genetically fearful – in the exact same environment, giving them equal socialization, the odds are very good that the genetically solid pup will turn out just fine, while the one that came from a line of fearful dogs will likely be fearful.

Since many puppies come from shelters and rescue groups with little or no information about their genetic background, and because even good breeders sometimes receive unexpected rolls of the genetic dice, the best approach is to socialize every puppy properly, extensively, and thoroughly. Poorly socialized fearful dogs can be helped and their behavior improved upon, but will probably never be the dogs they could have been if they’d had a better start in life.

fearful dog
This pup is attending a puppy social, but he’s afraid of the other participants, as evidenced by his shut-down, withdrawn behavior. He would benefit more from one-on-one interaction with a very calm pup, or even an easy-going adult dog, to build his social confidence. It’s also possible that allowing him to safely sit on the sidelines and watch the other puppies play (fully protected by a see-through barrier like the exercise pen in the photo) may be enough to build his confidence. It’s not unusual for a pup to be shy the first night of class and get bolder as he habituates to the class.

The puppy’s environment – even in utero – has as large an influence on him as his genetics. We now know that puppies born to mothers who were significantly stressed during pregnancy are likely to suffer from fear and stress-related behaviors throughout their lives, due to the flood of cortisol they were subjected to while still in the womb. Note to shelters and rescue groups: This means you need to work very hard to place your pregnant dogs in appropriate foster homes, rather than subjecting them to the stress of a shelter or kennel, to give those pups the best chance for a long and happy fear-free life.

Puppies observe and learn from their mothers, so if their mother is fearful, they learn this from her as well. It’s no wonder that recent studies suggest that puppy-mill puppies have significantly more and greater behavioral issues throughout their lives than dogs born in more suitable environments.

Significant life events can create fear in an otherwise confident adult dog, even one who is genetically sound and well-socialized. These events may have the biggest impact during puppyhood and adolescence, but can also cause fear later in life. A car accident can cause a previously car-loving dog to become fearful of cars. A single significant attack by another dog can turn a canine-loving hound into one who is fearful and defensively aggressive toward other dogs. And inappropriate actions by other humans toward your dog can convince her that people should be feared.

So the better you are at protecting your dog throughout her life from events that cause her to become significantly afraid, the less likely you will need to manage and/or modify her fear behaviors at some point. And, with a “get back on the horse” recommendation, science suggests that the sooner you work to modify a negative association (fear) due to a traumatic event, the more successful the modification efforts are likely to be.

Managing Your Dog’s Fear

I’m sorry if this sounds daunting, but in order to successfully modify fear-based behavior, you must painstakingly manage your dog’s exposure to the fear-causing stimulus.

Every time your dog has an over-threshold (fear-causing) exposure it can sensitize her further, making it even harder to convince her that she doesn’t need to be afraid. Barking, lunging, hiding, running away: whatever her avoidance strategies may be, each time she employs them she will become even more convinced that the strategies are effective, because she didn’t get injured or killed. Those behaviors are negatively reinforced (her behavior made a bad thing go away), and behaviors that are reinforced persist and increase.

If you want her to get more confident and less fearful, you must control your dog’s environment to protect her from the things that frighten her. Be your dog’s invincible advocate. If your dog is afraid of strangers, you must vehemently prohibit strangers from approaching her, even the sweet little lady who insists, “It’s okay, dogs love me!”

If your dog is fearful of visitors, put her in a safe place before anyone arrives – shut in a back bedroom, or even at a friend or family member’s house so she’s far away from the action, not trapped in a crate in the corner of the living room where guests can frighten her even more. Avoid taking her places where fear-causing sights or sounds might occur, and use appropriate medications to help her deal with scary situations that you cannot avoid, like trips to the veterinary clinic.

Modifying Your Dog’s Fear

So, how do you help your fearful dog get brave? My favorite approach is tried-and-true counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D): giving your dog a new, happier association with the scary stimulus. CC&D is simple and straightforward, and after a training/coaching session, my clients are usually able to practice successfully on their own, without me holding their hand every step of the way. (For a sample CC&D protocol for desensitizing your dog, see here.)

training dog to target
Once your dog learns to target your hand with his nose, you can guide him past things that would ordinarily frighten him; this gives him something safe and rewarding to focus on, instead of getting riveted by the scary thing. Thanks to trainer Sandi Thompson of Bravo!Pup, Berkeley, CA, for demonstrating.

There are even more simple exercises you can use to help your dog maintain her equilibrium while you are working with your preferred behavior modification protocol. Many of these involve “priming” – putting your dog’s brain in a happy place by asking her to do something she loves so she can more easily cope with the stress of the fear-causing stimulus. Here are some examples:

Targeting

It may sound like a marketing technique, but it simply means teaching your dog to touch a designated body part to a designated target. That description doesn’t do it justice – targeting is tons of fun! Nose-targeting draws your dog’s eye-contact and attention from a worrisome stimulus to a pleasant one and can be very useful for timid dogs.

To teach it, hold your open palm in front of your dog, nose level or below. When she sniffs it (because she’s curious!), click your clicker and feed a treat (or use a verbal marker – a mouth click, or a word). Remove your hand, then offer it again.

Each time she sniffs, click and treat. If she stops sniffing (“Boring! I’ve already sniffed that!) rub a little tasty treat smell on the palm of your hand and try again. When she deliberately bumps her nose into your hand, add the “Touch!” cue as you offer your hand. Encourage her with praise and high-value treats. Make it a game, so her eyes light up when you say “Touch.”

When she loves the targeting game, try playing when your dog is a little nervous about something. Scary man passing by on the sidewalk? Hold out your hand and say “Touch!” Your dog takes her eyes – and brain – away from the scary thing and happily bonks her nose into your hand. Click and treat!

She can’t be afraid of the man and happy about touching your hand at the same time. And she can’t look at your target hand and stare at the scary man at the same time. By changing your dog’s behavior – having her do something she loves – you can manage a scary encounter and eventually change her association with something previously scary to her.

playing games with a dog
The game of “Find it!” is simple and effective. Like a target, a tossed treat gives your dog something enjoyable to focus on besides whatever might be concerning him. Thanks to trainer Sarah Richardson, The Canine Connection, Chico, CA, for demonstrating.

Find It

Like targeting, “Find it” is a behavior many dogs love and another game you can play to change behavior in the presence of a fear-causing stimulus.

With your dog in front of you, say “Find it!” in a cheerful tone of voice and toss a treat at your feet. When your dog finds the treat, click just before she eats it. Then say “Find it!” again and toss another at your feet. Click – and she eats the treat. Do this until your dog’s eyes light up and she looks toward your feet as soon as she hears the “Find it” cue.

Now when a scary skateboarder appears, say “Find It!” and toss treats at your feet. Your dog will take her eyes off the scary thing and switch into happy-treat mode. You’ve changed her emotion by changing her behavior.

These games can also work to walk your timid dog past a scary, stationary object, like a manhole cover, or a noisy air conditioning unit. Touch-and-treat as you walk past, or toss Find It treats on the ground ahead of you and slightly away from the scary thing, to keep her moving happily forward.

playing games with a dog
You can see from this dog’s body language that he is enjoying the opportunity to play ball. This happy frame can help him maintain his equilibrium in the reasonable presence of a scary stimulus.

Play

You can use any behavior your dog already loves – a trick, toy, or game – to convince her that good things happen in the presence of something scary. If she loves to roll over, ask her to do that. If she delights in snagging tossed treats out of the air, do that. High five? Crawl? Spin and twirl? Do those.

The key to making any of these games work is to be sure you stay far enough away from the scary thing that your dog’s brain is able to click into “play” mode. You’ll be more successful if you start the games when you see low levels of stress, rather than waiting until she’s in full meltdown. If she’s too fearful, she won’t be able to play. If she’ll play games with you while the scary thing is at a distance, you’ll be able to move closer. If she stops playing and shuts down, you’ve come too close.

Be Patient and Kind to Fearful Dogs

Whatever protocol you use, always err on the side of caution, and remember that your canine pal is not being a “bad dog” – she is truly terrified. It should go without saying that any application of force, coercion, or punishment will only make things worse in the long run, even if it succeeds in shutting down behavior in the short term. With empathy, patience, and appropriate management and modification, you can help make your dog’s world a happier, safer place.

Camp Fire: Dispatch from a Disaster Area

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Wednesday, November 7

A week ago, my biggest concern was getting my foster puppies adopted. To that end, I managed to get an invitation to our local TV station, so they could be the “Pets of the Week” – a fun bit of video that airs on the broadcast news and can also be shared via social media. I bathed all my foster pups and picked the four most personable of the seven remaining, and took them to the station early. I brought an exercise pen and set it up in the station’s lobby, had all the pups potty outside, and then trooped them into the lobby to wait for the station’s meteorologist, Cort Klopping, to be free to tape the segment. At least a dozen employees of the station came out to pick up and hug the pups and pose for photos and send texts to friends they thought might need a pup. The puppies behaved SO well, and I thought it was a big success. I couldn’t wait for the clip to be aired and shared and all the pups to fly off the shelves, so to speak.

Thursday, November 8

The next morning, I dropped the pups at my local shelter (in Oroville, California) with high hopes a few would get adopted, and in fact, a couple came in and adopted one puppy that morning. But almost immediately following came the news that a forest fire had started near the town of Paradise, California, about 20 miles away. Even without TV or radio news, the fire was apparent; a huge column of smoke dominated the sky. Most foreboding was the fact that the smoke plume was going sideways; this meant there was a strong wind pushing and feeding the fire. By midday, the “adopt the puppies” project was forgotten; all local media and social media was about evacuation, emergency shelter sites for evacuated people and animals, and rescue. This fire had a name, the Camp Fire; it was so named after the road closest to the place where it started, Camp Creek Road.

california camp fire smoke

Just a few months ago, on July 23, there was a huge and deadly fire near (and then in) Redding, California, a city that is 110 miles north of me. That fire burned almost 230, 000 acres and more than 1,000 homes; eight people died in the fire, including three firefighters. It wasn’t 100 percent contained until August 30. It was this fire that was fresh in my nightmares when I wrote an editorial for the September issue of WDJ, pleading with owners to be ready to evacuate with their pets in case of any emergency.

By the afternoon, I was rushing around making own preparations to evacuate. There were high winds that day and the fire was blowing up and moving FAST – but sideways from east to west; I’m south and a bit east. For me, it wasn’t a matter of “LEAVE NOW,” just, “Get ready to leave soon, if need be.”

I brought my foster puppies to my home, so that they and my own two dogs were in the same place (and an additional four miles farther away from the fire). My husband and I filled up our car and truck with gas. I found all my dog crates, checked the connections, and padded them with blankets. Grabbed a plastic bin and stuffed it with dog food, bowls, and extra leashes. Filled a few water jugs and put them in the truck. I have extra dog collars that have my phone number stitched into the fabric, and I put one on each of my dogs and the puppies. From my office, I grabbed the folders that have all my dogs’ health records, my computer (a Mac mini, very small), my backup drives, and my cameras and chargers. At home, I watered the lawn and blew leaves away from the outbuildings. At last we felt sort of ready to go. We tried to gather what news we could, but it was tough; our internet had gone out and even the cell phones were getting only intermittent reception.

On the way back from my last trip to town, I saw the body of a dog who had been struck and killed (it was obviously dead) on the side of the road I live on. I made a mental note to go back in just a bit to go see if the dog had a collar or ID. It made me so sad to think about the fact that the dog had likely been a victim of someone’s rush or panic in the face of the fire.

But it was right about that time that I started getting texts from my good friend (and frequent model for WDJ), Sarah Richardson, who owns a boarding, training, and daycare facility called The Canine Connection in Chico, the next town directly in the path of the fire. Evacuation orders were being issued for the part of town immediately next to where her business is located – less than a mile from her – and she had 20 dogs boarding at her facility at that moment. Taking a page from the director of my local shelter, who had the foresight to evacuate her shelter a full week before she was ordered to when we had the Oroville Dam disaster almost two years ago, Sarah decided to pre-emptively evacuate her facility. She didn’t want to have to move 20 client dogs (and four of her own) in a panic. She rented some vans and her staff started loading dogs and crates into vehicles, and they hit the road with a plan to head north in a convoy of five vehicles containing staff members and dogs). Terrible traffic and a lack of options in that direction made them pause at a rest stop to reconsider where to go. I invited Sarah and the rest of the convoy to my house. 

Friday, November 9

They arrived around 2 a.m. Her staff walked the dogs and made sure everyone got to go potty and have a drink, and got the dogs settled in crates set up in an outbuilding on my property. By the time that was done, it was nearly dawn.

I took an opportunity to slip out and drive down the road to where I had seen the dog’s body. It was still there, a gorgeous black Labrador. She was wearing a collar with ID, but not a phone number for the owner. I contacted someone who I knew would know the dog, and the owner was notified. I will tell you more about this some other day; all I can say right now was that the loss of this dog was unbelievably tragic and I started crying that morning and I cry every time I think about it to this day. The dog’s death has not yet been announced by the owner, though it will be soon, I think. Someone was dispatched to pick up the dog’s body and arrange for her cremation.

It was surreal. I came back from this errand crying, but the day (Friday) was developing into real beauty. The sky directly overhead was robin’s egg blue, and the sun came out and warmed us all up as Sarah’s employees took the dogs out in small groups to potty and play. My dog Woody was beside himself with happiness, greeting each new group of dogs (boarders and regular clients of Sarah’s dog daycare) as they were released from their pens; he got to be the “play concierge” for the day and was thrilled, leading the groups on wild runs around my two-acre field. Sarah, her employees, and I were all stripping off sweatshirts and down vests until we were all in just short-sleeved T-shirts and soaking up the sun.

Sarah and her facility’s manager had been on the phone, leaving messages for the owners of all the boarded dogs, letting them know that the facility had been evacuated and their dogs were safe. Two sets of owners were near enough that they came to my house to collect their dogs; they were all incredibly grateful to Sarah and her staff for keeping their dogs safe.

I checked in with the director of my local shelter. We agreed that any adoptions would not be happening, and I would hold onto my foster pups for the time being.

But as the hours ticked past, the giant cloud of dark smoke gradually crept across the sky until it blotted out the sun. Ominously, the temperature dropped about 25 degrees in an hour. The playgroups sort of ground to a halt as we took in the latest fire news: that the firefighters had lit backfires on the edge of Chico to prevent the first from being blown any further into the city limits, and that the evacuation mandate for the area where Sarah’s business was located had been lifted. We loaded all the crates back into the cars and vans and The Canine Connection hit the road back to Chico. It was back to just me and my husband, my two dogs, and the six remaining foster pups.

I got a phone call from the director of my local shelter; she had been in touch with some shelters and rescue groups from elsewhere (places not threatened by the fire). Several were sending vehicles and volunteers to our area to transfer some of our adoptable animals to these out-of-area adoption centers. This would free up space in the shelter to receive animals we were sure to expect from the fire zone. She said a group coming from a town about an hour away wanted my puppies specifically, so I should bring them to the shelter. I burst into tears. First, the dog who had been killed on the roadside, and now I had to say goodbye to ALL of my foster pups in one fell swoop. I had wanted them adopted, but not like this.

But I’m just a foster provider; they aren’t my pups. I loaded them into my car and brought them into the shelter, kissing each one again and again as I carried them to their run, as I had done every day for the past few weeks. They were perfectly comfortable there, and all settled into their later afternoon nap. One of the kennel attendants asked me if I was all right; I could only wave miserably and sob, “My puppies!” He smiled sympathetically and kept moving. They know me well.

At 5 pm, the director called me again and said, “The rescue came and went without your pups; they are going to come back tomorrow and take them then.”

“I’m on my way!” I jumped with glee. What a weird reversal from just a couple days before. I wanted those pups OUT of here; now, I couldn’t bear for them to leave. If this sounds positively bipolar, it’s due to the raw emotions that accompany a disaster. Our internet service was restored just in time to receive news reports coming in of fire-related deaths and thousands of people and hundreds of animals evacuated. Social media was full of pleas for help rescuing hundreds of animals that had not been evacuated, but left behind the morning prior as people went to work before the fire had been reported and grown huge. The black Lab’s death on my road made the number of fatalities personal and vivid. Just thinking about leaving my dogs home for a trip to the store or something, and then being unable to go back to rescue them from a fire – it just stops the breath in my throat. So I bolted to the shelter to grab my foster pups and kissed each one all the way back to my car.

Saturday, November 10

In my area, there is a group we call “nav-dag.” The name is an improper pronunciation of its initials, which stand for the North Valley Animal Disaster Group. These folks – all volunteers – organize and staff the local response to fires, floods, horses stuck in ravines, cattle-truck turnovers, and anything else involving animals and disasters. The day of the fire, NVADG had sprung into action, mobilizing its volunteers at two established sites where, historically, animals who have been evacuated or rescued from local disasters have been housed and cared for until their owners could reclaim them. News reports showed volunteers walking dogs and cleaning cat cages at the two locations (Chico and Oroville) where evacuees were being taken.

california camp fire pet rescue

I have been meaning to take NVADG’s training for some time, and know several people who are regular volunteers with the group. But the fact that I had not yet been to even one of the group’s orientations meant that I needed to stay out of their territory. Instead, I brought my pups to the shelter Saturday morning – a tad more composed than the previous sleep-deprived day – and got to work. The shelter staff was frantic. The Humane Society of Silicon Valley (HSSV) arrived that morning with two large vans and dozens of crates; they took on more than 70 of our shelter residents, animals who had stayed well past their legal “stray hold” time, and had either been languishing on the adoption row for quite some time, or had not even made it to the adoption row yet. In any case, they were not animals displaced by the fire, but had been at the shelter for weeks (and even months, in some cases).

california camp fire pet rescue

As quickly as the HSSV could load cats (lots) and dogs (a few), our kennel workers were cleaning kennels and cages and moving animals. They were trying to make room on what is usually the isolation side of the shelter for fire evacuees. The shelter will be holding the evacuated and rescued dogs indefinitely, to give their owners as much time as needed to find, identify, claim, and ultimately regain possession of their pets. Holding these pets apart from the general population of stray and unwanted dogs will help their owners look for and/or visit them, until they are able to take them “home.” I helped the kennel attendants move dogs, find bedding, fill water bowls, and take dogs out to potty.

The vast majority of the dogs who have been rescued or evacuated from the fire zone are being held at the two sites operated by the NVADG group, but they are sending all the dogs who can’t be safely held at those sites to the Northwest SPCA, including dogs who are showing (understandable) aggression to the volunteers or other dogs, trying (or managing) to escape from their wire crates, or hurt themselves in an effort to do so. The shelter’s facility is far more secure, with permanent runs and highly experienced staff. Every day, a few more big and anxious dogs are transferred from the emergency holding site to the much-stronger (and fortunately, increasingly roomy) shelter.

Volunteers from the rescue group from a town about an hour away, Ruff Pack Refuge, started showing up and looking for things to do, and I sent them to an outdoor run to play with my puppies for a while. When their leader showed up, they started busying themselves with unloading donated food, kitty litter, towels, and other supplies they had collected for the shelter, and selecting more dogs and cats to take back to their area for fostering and adoption. I went outside and gave my pups my final goodbye kisses, tears running down my cheeks, as the volunteers looked a little awkwardly away. “This is the second time I have said goodbye to them! I didn’t think I would cry this time!” I explained, but I had to leave before they started loading the pups and other animals into crates for the drive to where they will next be made available for adoption. A little weeping is one thing; I didn’t want anyone to hear me sob.

Sunday, November 11

I meant to go help the kennel attendants clean the shelter on Sunday, just to give them a bit of a break. The shelter is closed on Sundays, and that makes the day a little easier for them anyway – but it was a moot point. I just couldn’t face the shelter. I needed a day off with my dogs. We didn’t even do much – no hikes or periods of throwing the ball. The air was just thick with smoke. We spent a serious amount of time on the couch together.

Monday, November 12

Officially, my local shelter was closed on Monday, a holiday. Unofficially, there were people coming to look for their evacuated animals and people bringing donations of pet food and blankets to the shelter. I had to work for part of the day, but I stopped by the shelter, too, and helped distribute fresh bedding to the dogs in the kennels.

Over the course of the previous days, the weather forecasters were predicting high winds and a much higher fire danger; fortunately, the winds never got as strong as they had been on the first day of the fire. And finally, on Monday, they died down altogether. The good news: This lessened the fire danger. The bad news: This allowed the smoke to drift over my town and just settle like a muddy pond. The air quality is just awful. The sun looks like a copper penny; the moon looks like an actual orange slice. No stars can cut through the gloom. A new number for the death toll of the fire is announced on the news each evening; it grows higher every day, though the fire hasn’t killed anyone since the day it started. Rather, “rescue” workers keep finding the bodies of people (and many animals) who perished in the firestorm on that first day.

I looked on social media for links to “my” puppies, and had to settle for photos that the rescue had posted of them with the volunteers who had fetched them. When I asked about them via email, I was told that they would send me the links when the pups had been cleared by the group’s veterinarian.

Tuesday, November 13

My major accomplishment for the day was taking my computer and cameras back to my office, and putting my work computer system back together again. I answered some emails and checked on the progress of articles for the next issue.

That evening, I drove with my friend Sarah to an agility class she is taking about an hour away. It gave us a chance to talk about everything dog- and fire-related. The class itself was very technical, geared toward folks who are experienced and immersed in agility competition. The dogs never came out of their crates, but the participants took turns practicing the footwork for precise turns and changes of direction and playing the part of agility dogs. It was interesting and fun – and it was nice to take a break from the bad air and the nightly press conference and increase in the death toll.

As I collapsed into bed that night, I got a text from Sarah: She had been contacted by someone at NVADG who said the group needed some qualified and experienced help.

NVADG’s most highly trained volunteers were working daily in the evacuated zones where the fire had first destroyed so much; only the most qualified volunteers were allowed in such a dangerous environment to look for and rescue surviving pets. Daily, they brought more and more animals down from the wreckage of Paradise to safety.

california camp fire pet rescue

In addition, NVADG’s regular volunteer corps was exhausted from caring for 1,365 animals – dogs, cats, rabbits, pet birds, chickens, ducks, geese and more – in two locations. All the animals are essentially living in crates for the time being, so an army of dog walkers (and cat cage cleaners) is needed to get the dogs out several times a day for relief. Many also require medical attention. Sarah asked me if I could join her and some of her staff members to help out at one of the animal evacuation sites in the morning, and I was more than happy to say I would.

I won’t say that the regular NVADG rules regarding the use of only volunteers who have been through the group’s training program are getting broken, just that the organization is about to gain some more very qualified and experienced volunteers who will undoubtedly go through the organization’s next training event when it’s offered – and in the meantime, the group will get some relief. I’m super happy to be able to go put my hands on dogs (and cats!) from the evacuation zone, and to be of more use.

I’ll let you know how those efforts go in a future post.

As of this writing, the human death toll from the Camp Fire stands at 56; the number of animals who lost their lives is incalculable. Over 52,000 people are still displaced from their homes by the still-burning fire, and 8,650 homes are confirmed destroyed. My heart goes out to all of those who have lost loved ones and/or their homes, and my deep admiration goes to all of those who are still working to make each day a little more comfortable for the evacuees.

If you are so moved, please consider a donation to one of these really terrific organizations:

North Valley Animal Disaster Group (help for animal victims of the fire)

North Valley Community Foundation (help for human victims of the fire)

Download the Full December 2018 Issue PDF

  • Bloat: The Mother Of All Canine Emergencies
  • Fear Not!
  • Therapy Dogs: Bringing Comfort and Germs?
  • The 7 Habits Of Highly Effective Dog Owners
  • Your Couch, Your Rules
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Some Dog Food Recalls Are More Critical Than Others; This One Is Critical

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On November 2, the FDA announced a voluntary recall by Nutrisca pet food. Three sizes of a single variety of Nutrisca dry dog food, Chicken and Chickpea, was found to contain dangerously high levels of vitamin D. The following bags have the following UPC codes on the labels:

4 lbs Nutrisca® Chicken and Chickpea Dry Dog Food Bag UPC: 8-84244-12495-7
15 lbs Nutrisca® Chicken and Chickpea Dry Dog Food Bag UPC: 8-84244-12795-8
28 lbs Nutrisca® Chicken and Chickpea Dry Dog Food Bag UPC: 8-84244-12895-5

The FDA also announced a voluntary recall by Natural Life Pet Products, whose Chicken and Potato dry dog food in 17.5-lb. bags was also found to have dangerously high levels of vitamin D. The affected lot was distributed to retailers in Alabama, California, Georgia, Florida, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia.

17.5 lbs. Natural Life Chicken & Potato Dry Dog Food Bag UPC: 0-12344-08175-1

Nutrisca and Natural Life Pet Products are made in Joplin, Missouri. Nutrisca is a line of foods made by Dogswell. Natural Life Pet Products was purchased by Dogswell in March 2015. Dogswell, in turn, was purchased by Whitebridge Pet Brands LLC in April 2017. Whitebridge also owns Cloudstar and Petropics, maker of Tiki Dog and Tiki Cat.

natural life pet products dog food recall

From the FDA Dog Food Recall Release:

“[The company] became aware of the elevated levels of vitamin D after receiving complaints from three pet owners of vitamin D toxicity after consuming the product[s]. An investigation revealed a formulation error led to the elevated vitamin D in the product.

“Consumers should stop feeding the products listed above. Dogs ingesting elevated levels of Vitamin D may exhibit symptoms such as vomiting, loss of appetite, increased thirst, increased urination, excessive drooling, and weight loss. Vitamin D when consumed at very high levels can lead to serious health issues in dogs including renal dysfunction. Consumers with dogs who have consumed the product listed above and are exhibiting these symptoms, should contact their veterinarian.

“Consumers who have purchased the product[s] affected by this recall should dispose of [them] or return [them] to the place of purchase for a full refund.

nutrisca dog food recall

“Consumers with questions may contact Natural Life Pet Products at (888) 279-9420 from 8 AM to 5 PM Central Standard time, Monday through Friday, or by email at consumerservices@nutrisca.com for more information.”

We don’t share every dog food recall – but an elevated level of vitamin D is pretty serious. Vitamin D toxicity can cause a buildup of calcium in a dog’s blood (hypercalcemia), which in turn causes the nausea and vomiting, weakness, and frequent urination.

From Petmd.com:

“Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin (i.e., stored in the fatty tissues of the body and liver) that is vital in regulating the calcium and phosphorous balance in your dog’s body. It also promotes the retention of calcium, thus aiding bone formation and nerve and muscle control. When ingested in exorbitant levels, however, vitamin D can cause serious health issues.

“Chemicals used to kill rodents are the most common source of vitamin D poisoning in dogs, though excessive use of vitamin D in the diet or drugs containing high levels of vitamin D can also lead to toxicity. Dogs of all ages are susceptible, but young dogs and puppies are at higher risk.”

A Glut of Puppies at My Local Shelter

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As I may have already said about a dozen times lately, I have been fostering some puppies for my local shelter. Usually, this is a matter of taking them in when they are quite young, getting them safely through whatever ails them – often a cocktail of internal parasites and tummy troubles – and socializing them with anyone I can drag over to my house to play, until they are old enough and healthy enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery. At that point, I take them to the shelter, weep as I kiss them all goodbye, and then watch the happy adoption announcements appear on the shelter website over the next day or so as they all find homes.

pitbull shepherd mix puppies

This bunch has been different, and I’m so sad and frustrated about it!

The shelter broke up this litter of 10 into two groups, and altered the four largest, healthiest puppies first; this happened two weeks ago. Those four puppies went up for adoption while I was out of town for six days, and every day while I was gone, I checked the shelter website to see who got adopted. Not ONE got adopted!

So when I got back, I picked up the puppies, bathed them (stinky from staying at the shelter), gave them a glorious morning of play with my dog Woody, and settled into a routine of bringing them to the shelter each morning when the kennels open for viewing at 10 a.m., and picking them up each day when the shelter closes, so they can spend their evenings running around the backyard and nights indoors. This way, they are nice and tired (and well-behaved) at the shelter, not whiny or barky or jumpy, and they don’t smell like they have been walking and sitting in urine. I also work with them for a few minutes several times each morning and evening, and they have “sit” on cue (and offer it every time you so much as look at them), and their recall is truly a delight…

Still no takers.

Then I made and posted a short little video, showing how cute they are, and posted it on the shelter’s Facebook page. Within a day, two of them got adopted, and I was psyched. And then… crickets again. I have been bringing the other two altered puppies to and from the shelter daily, and they are champions at hopping into the car and riding nicely – but we seem no closer to getting them adopted than we were two weeks ago.

And, here is the worse news: The other six puppies, who have been in the capable hands of a good friend here in town for the past few weeks, are being altered today. So we will be providing pickup and drop-off service for eight pups until these guys get adopted. 

I think there are a few reasons for the slow adoption rate of this litter. First, the shelter has had a little glut of puppies lately. The last two of another litter of 10 pit-mix pups are also awaiting adoption. A litter of nine Boxer-mix puppies are already being shown on the adoption row, and getting altered next week. And there are several other individual pups awaiting adoption. My community seems to have absorbed all the puppies they can for a while; we have to reach out to a wider circle. (And to that end, I will be taking more portraits and videos of the pups and adding longer descriptions of them to the Petfinder.com page for the shelter.)

pitbull shepherd mix puppies

Also, this litter is of pitbull and, reportedly, German Shepherd heritage. The shelter staff saw the mom; she was a pit-mix, so they absolutely need to represent the pups as such, even if they don’t look very “pittie.” Most of the pups look more like German Shepherds … but they all have some variation of a brindle coat. I don’t know about you, but in my experience, dogs with brindle coats get adopted at a slower rate than the dog most people say has the hardest time getting adopted: black dogs. I just don’t see the black dog bias in my area – but we also get a lot of black Labrador-mixes around here, and people snap them up. One friend wondered if the pups’ brindle coats make them look dirty, and thus, off-putting. I don’t know!

I do know that people who like pitbulls or want one, generally want a pitbull that looks like a pitbull – and these pups look more like Shepherds. And yet, I wonder if people who might want a German Shepherd-type dog are being put off by the fact that the mom was a pitbull-type. It’s all guessing; I just don’t know! They are so sweet and so smart! What’s the problem??

Anyway, sorry for whining so much; I hope I won’t still be talking about these pups for more than another few weeks. My dog food budget can’t take too much more of this!

But on the other hand, I get puppy breath infusions daily. So there is that, and it does help compensate.

Dog Limping: Possible Causes and Treatments

Dogs are usually active, enthusiastic household members, and as a result, they are prone to injuries. These can range from muscle strains to broken bones to systemic infections.

When your dog is limping it’s time to consult with a veterinarian. They may have you rest your dog and monitor at home for 24-48 hours depending on the severity of the problem. If the limp doesn’t improve or worsens, they will likely have you come in for an appointment.

It is important to remember not to use over-the-counter remedies for pain in this case. While aspirin and acetaminophen (Tylenol) can be used safely in dogs, improper dosing can lead to bleeding problems and liver failure. Never use these medications without first consulting your veterinarian.

Only A Vet Can Determine Why Your Dog is Limping

When you see the vet, a thorough physical examination is necessary to determine the cause of your dog’s limp. A head-to-toe examination should include vital signs, palpation of lymph nodes, auscultation of the heart and lungs, handling of the painful limb, and observation of your dog at a walk. It is important to isolate which limb and which area of the limb is affected, as this can help determine possible causes.

Causes of dog limping are extremely varied. Broad categories include soft tissue strains or tears (ligaments, tendons, and muscles), infectious diseases such as Ehrlichia and Lyme disease, inflammatory conditions such as panosteitis, vascular conditions like blood clots, and orthopedic problems such as fractures. Further, these can be divided between front limbs and rear limbs. Most lameness problems are similar between the front and back legs, but there are some specific problems such as a torn cranial cruciate ligament that can only happen in the rear leg.

The inciting cause can often be narrowed down with a history as well as the age and breed of your dog (this is called the signalment). For instance, a German shepherd puppy with acute onset of shifting leg lameness would be a strong suspect for panosteitis—a common inflammatory condition of the breed. An older dog with a sudden, painful, non-weight bearing lameness of one leg would raise suspicion for a bone tumor like osteosarcoma and a resulting fractured bone. A young limping Coonhound with a history of tick exposure, fever, and abnormalities on bloodwork might be suffering from Rocky Mountain spotted fever, a frequently encountered tick-borne illness.

dog limping on beach

Tests for Limping Dogs and Treatment

Depending on what your veterinarian finds, they may recommend several different tests including bloodwork, tick disease testing, and/or x-rays. They will also decide on the best treatment options.

Common medications used in the management of pain related to dog limping include the NSAID family of drugs (non-steroid anti-inflammatory drugs) such as carprofen, meloxicam, firocoxib, and deracoxib. These are very effective for controlling pain, have been in use for a long time in veterinary medicine, and have a well-known side effect profile.

There is a new medication called Galliprant that is available for management of pain. While technically it is an NSAID, it has a more specific area of activity in inflammation and has less reported side effects. Tramadol is another medication that may be prescribed. Whether this is effective for pain control has been recently debated in veterinary medicine, so it should never be used as the only pain relief.

Your veterinarian will also prescribe resting your dog. This will include minimal exercise—leash walks only for bathroom purposes. In some cases, icing or applying heat can help. The best approach depends on the cause.

Things to Remember When Your Dog is Limping

If your dog begins to limp, check in with your veterinarian, rest your dog to allow recovery, and avoid over-the-counter medications without first consulting your vet. The causes of limping are vast and varied, and with the guidance of a thorough history and physical exam, your vet should be able to help your canine companion.

Coming Home to My Dogs

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Like most dog owners, my dogs top the list of things I have to deal with when I come home from a trip. I was away from home for five nights and six days, having traveled to Memphis for the Association of Professional Dog Trainers‘ annual conference (which was awesome), and then one extra night in San Diego, to watch my son compete in the national championship for his sport (which was not quite as fun; his team lost in the finals and he got a minor concussion!).

I landed at the Sacramento Airport on Sunday night at around 10 p.m. By the time I got my bags, took a shuttle to my car in the long-term lot, and got onto the highway, it was about 11. By the time I got home, after 12.

Planet Dog Squeak balls

My husband was asleep on the couch, “waiting up” for me. He was awakened rudely by the loud thumping of Woody’s tail, which strongly whacked everything he walked by – the fridge, the door, the washing machine (I left my bags in the laundry area). My husband grumbled a greeting and went to bed. I stayed up for a bit, unwinding from the road and letting Woody help unpack my suitcase. I had bought a bunch of fleecy toys from a booth at the conference (at an irresistible special price!) and he found each and every one and took them out of my suitcase. He also sniffed long and hard at the sample bags of dog treats that had been in the conference registration bag. “Hey! Mom! Look! Candy!” All those got zipped back into my suitcase once my clothes were sorted out; I would take them to the office the next day.

WOODY AND PUPPIES

I woke up Monday morning at 7 a.m. Central time – otherwise known at 5 a.m. Pacific time. I got up, and took a stroll with Woody around our property, throwing what’s left of his favorite $17 ball. My husband played fetch with Woody a lot while I was gone, to keep Woody’s energy in check, but he often forgets to take away the ball after the last throw. These Planet Dog Squeak balls are like crack for Woody – he loves them like no other. They last a loooong time – but only if I don’t let Woody have unsupervised time with the ball. The balls hold up well to bouncing, getting caught, and the incidental chewing that happens while Woody brings it back, but it can’t take the intense, extended chewing of an unsupervised dog with massive, strong jaws. I made a mental note to add a new one to my next online food order.

A friend was hosting six of the 10 foster puppies I had been caring for all month; on the day I left town, I had left the four largest puppies at the shelter. They had spay/neuter surgery on Wednesday and went on the adoption row on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Disappointingly, not one had been adopted. Puppies usually fly off the shelves at my shelter, but we have had several large litters up for adoption recently. Dang! Born into a puppy glut. The shelter is closed on Sunday, so my friend had picked up the four who had been altered, so they could have Saturday night, all day Sunday, and Sunday night outside and in a home environment.

So as soon as the sun came up, I drove over to her house to pick up the four pups who had been altered and bring them back to my house. Woody and I then led them all over the property and got them good and tired before delivering them back to the shelter at 10 a.m., when the kennels open for adoption hours. This way, they sleep all day at the shelter, instead of getting stressed and whiny.

woody and otto napping

I had left Otto with my sister Pam and her husband, so he could be spoiled at their house while I was gone. At my house, Otto sleeps on either a big, comfy dog bed or the couch. At my sister’s house, he has staked out the extra high, extra plush, queen-sized bed in her guest room as his very own. My sister reports with glee, “He sleeps with his head on the pillows, even!” Personally, I think he likes it because it’s the only place my sister’s little dogs can’t reach; he doesn’t like being touched while he sleeps.

Pam has Mondays off, so she brought Otto to my office shortly after I got back from dropping off the puppies at the shelter. I got to greet Otto as Woody greeted my sister, holding his face in my hands and kissing his forehead, which he likes. Then he grumbled as Woody excitedly greeted him. “Get out of my face you dithering idiot!” he roared. But his tail was wagging.

sleeping mixed breed puppies

Ah…everyone back where they are supposed to be – at least until we can get all of these foster pups adopted. Travel is fun, but getting home to my dogs is the best.

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