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Dog Park Rules

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Dog park rules are often listed on signs like the one displayed here.
A list of rules for the dog park in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Photo courtesy of Helene Goldberger.

A friend recently posted a photograph she took at a dog park she visited in Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina. Pictured was a sign, posted at the entrance of the dog park, which listed the rules that visitors were supposed to observe at the park. It was a very good list, full of common-sense cautions, and aimed at asking people to observe their dogs at all times and take full responsibility for their dogs’ behavior.

I am a fan of dog-park rules, and I, too, have taken pictures of the posted rules at every dog park I have ever visited, in an effort to see how different communities have responded to the people and dogs there. This sign covered the most important points, I think, although I would debate some of them. (I’ve never seen what I would consider a perfect list of rules; there may be no such thing!)

  • All dogs and visitors use the park at their own risk; property owners are not responsible for any injury caused by dogs or facility structure.
  • Owners are legally responsible for the behavior of their dog(s) at all times.
  • No dogs without people. No people without dogs. No more than two dogs per person.
  • Dogs must be leashed while entering and exiting the dog run. (Note: Some parks install a small “airlock” with gates at either end where you can enter with your leashed dog, close the gate behind you, and remove his leash before opening the gate at the other end to let your now-unleashed dog into the park. Upon exiting, you can open the interior gate, enter the airlock with your dog, close it behind you, and put his leash before exiting. This helps you leash and unleash your dog without the distractions of other dogs—and prevents the escape of any dogs who try to slip in or out while you are entering or exiting.)
  • Handlers must carry a leash and remain inside the fenced area within view and voice control of their dogs at all times.
  • No spike, prong, or pinch collars. However, your dog must wear a collar or harness in the run at all times. (I strongly prefer dogs to play “naked,” to prevent any potential entanglements from dogs grabbing each other’s gear, but I appreciate the necessity of having a “handle” with which to grab a dog in case of a fight.)
  • Dog handlers must be at least 16 years of age.
  • Acts of aggression against other dogs or people are prohibited. Dogs must be removed if uncontrollable.
  • If your dog gets in a fight, exchange contact information and leave the dog run. You are responsible for any injury caused by your dog to dogs or people.
  • No dogs in heat. Closely monitor un-neutered males. (I would argue that one must closely monitor all the dogs, regardless of neutering status, but I think they are referencing the potential for actual mating here. Some parks restrict intact dogs from playing, which I think goes too far.)
  • No food or dog chews are allowed in the dog run. (Again, I like to have treats on my person for reinforcing my dogs for recalls or checking in with me, but I recognize that some dogs in the park may be resource-guarders and become aggressive around food. I can follow the park’s rule, or enter with food only when no other dogs are present.)
  • Dogs must be at least four months old, licensed, and have up-to-date vaccinations, including rabies. (I agree with the age requirements; dog parks are not safe for inexperienced and incompletely immunized puppies. And of course, I agree with the laws requiring rabies vaccines—and licenses are largely about making sure that dogs rabies’ vaccines are current. But there are lots of different definitions of “up-to-date vaccinations;” that one is a quagmire.)
  • Clean up after your dog. No littering. Place all waste in proper recepticles.
  • Watch your dogs at all times. Discourage barking and digging. If your dog digs a hole, fill it in.
  • Bring children at your own risk. Children under 13 must be accompanied by an adult. (I can’t tell you how many small children I have seen get hurt at dog parks, by getting knocked over and even humped! The sight of small kids being carried or even on a parent’s shoulders makes some dogs jump on the parent in an effort to reach the child. I say small kids have no business being in dog parks at all. )

The big catch here, of course, is how you can get people to follow the rules. Few of us enjoy being confrontational or having to self-police our recreational spaces to ensure our dogs’ safety—but one absolutely must! The bad news is that there are always some people who are too arrogant or self-centered to take advice or instruction from others, and in those cases, I just leave the dog park (and recommend that others who are concerned do, too).

Note that I am only very rarely in a dog park. I am extremely fortunate to have both limitless open space where dogs are allowed to be off-leash and dogs with very good recall (which I practice daily and reward generously). But occasionally I foster an energetic dog who needs running and doesn’t have enough of a relationship with me to count on their emerging recall skills; then I will look for a large fenced park at a time of day where there are few (if any) other dogs present so the dog can really burn off some excess energy. And I’m grateful when there are rules and a rule-following culture in place to prevent injuries and traumatic events.

Here is one of my favorite dog-park signs (taken at a park that I enjoy in Grass Valley, California):

Dog park rules may be enforced by local authorities.
Photo courtesy of Nancy Kerns.

What dog-park rules not covered here are important to you?

Why Is My Dog’s Tail Down?

A dogs tail down indicates fear, nervousness or stress.
When combined with worried-looking, round eyes, tucked-back ears, and tentative movement, a downward-angled tail usually indicates that a dog is nervous or frightened. Credit: imv | Getty Images

If your dog’s tail is down and he’s not acting like his normal self, something is likely bothering him either emotionally or physically—or both.

What It Means When a Dog’s Tail is Down

When a dog’s tail is down, it may signal:

  • Nervousness
  • Fear
  • Uncertainty
  • Stress
  • Appeasement/submissiveness
  • Not feeling well

When trying to decode what a tucked tail might mean, first consider how your dog usually holds his tail. Some breeds, like Labradors, Golden Retrievers and German Shepherd Dogs, naturally carry their tails in a downward position. However, if your dog’s tail is down when it’s normally upright—or his typically downward-sweeping tail is tucked up under his rump—it’s time to pay attention. When trying to understand the cause of a downward tail, look at both the whole body and the situation.

Is the Dog with His Tail Down Acting Weird?

Determining context can go a long way toward helping your pooch feel better. Is he afraid of something? If so, remove “the thing” or help him get away from the situation and see if he goes back to being his happy-go-lucky self.

Other signs you might see when the dog with his tail down is afraid include:

  • Cowering/shrunken appearance
  • Ears down
  • Lowered eyes
  • Whale eye
  • Looking away/Head turn
  • Lip licking
  • Yawning
  • Closed/tight mouth

An often-misinterpreted appeasement gesture is the squinty-eyed, toothy “smile.” This is actually a gesture of submission, sometimes paired with a downward or even tucked tail. So is rolling over when combined with other signs. In this situation, resist the urge to rub your dog’s belly. He is asking to be left alone, not for tummy time! These gestures can indicate appeasement, so what your dog is saying is “please go away, I’m uncomfortable.” Submissive urination happens sometimes too. Again, determine the context and arrange your dog’s environment so he’s more comfortable. If this behavior persists, reach out to a fear-free trainer.

Is the Dog with HisTail Down Sick?

Another possibility for a dog holding his tail down or tucked might be that something is physically wrong, either with the dog’s tail (i.e. sprained tail, limber tail syndrome, etc.) or something else. Even if the tail itself is fine, dogs often tuck their tails if they are uncomfortable or in pain. Look for additional signs your dog might not be feeling well such as vomiting, diarrhea, hiding, lack of appetite, or lethargy. If it seems like something is wrong—or if you’re not sure—take him to a vet for a health check.

When it comes to a dog with his tail down, watch closely and pay attention to what he is trying to tell you. Dogs say a lot with their tails. To learn more check out “Dog Tail Signs: What’s Your Dog’s Tail Language?”

What is Flyball?

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Flyball is a canine sport that engages your dog's instinct for fetch and challenges their athleticism.
To compete in flyball, dogs must be able to clear hurdles, turn on a box, retrieve a ball, and return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Some dogs would play fetch all day long if they could. Flyball takes the game of fetch to the next level by adding hurdles, a box to turn on, and other dogs racing at the same time. If your dog has a lot of toy drive, loves to retrieve, and can work around other dogs in fast-paced environments, flyball is the canine sport to try out.

Flyball is a relay race for dogs, where teams compete against each other for title points and bragging rights. Dogs are released from the start line, where they dash over four hurdles to a flyball box. They then turn by running up onto the slanted side of the flyball box, which releases a ball from its holding spot in the corner. The dog needs to catch the ball as it’s released and run back over the four hurdles to the start line. The next dog is released behind the start line while the first dog is on its way back, and ideally the two dogs pass each other nose to nose at the start line.

How To Get Your Dog Started in Flyball

According to Tonia Tamburini, flyball competitor, instructor, and team captain of the Denver Speed Demons flyball club, any dog can learn to play flyball. “We have a wide variety of breeds and sizes that play,” she says. “Athletic, fast dogs with a lot of drive tend to be the fastest at flyball, and dogs that understand the game of fetch can usually pick up the game faster than ones that are not interested in fetching a ball.”

If your dog seems to fit the bill, there are a few steps you should take to get them involved in flyball:

  1. Find a Flyball Club

According to Lydia Goggin, owner and trainer at Be Right Back Flyball Club in Northern Colorado, folks new to the sport should first look for a flyball club in their area.

“A good place to start is the North American Flyball Association (NAFA) or United Flyball League International (U-FLI) website and look for the teams listed in your area,” she recommends. “You can also find lists of tournaments in your area and talk to teams directly. NAFA also has Regional Directors who can help you find a club in your area and I believe U-FLI has a similar position.”

  1. Start Training

The foundation training for flyball is similar to agility in that it requires a number of specific, proofed skills in order to play. Tamburini says that toy/tug drive, recall, box turns, and retrieving are the four main foundational behaviors your dog needs to learn when starting flyball training. Here’s why each one is important:

  • Toy/Tug drive: Tamburini says that building strong toy/tug drive “will make your dog faster and will help reward the dog for playing correctly.”
  • Recall: “Having consistent and fast recalls is an important part of the game”, Tamburini says. “After a dog is consistent alone, we practice recalls while racing other dogs which they have to ignore.”
  • Box turn: “Dogs need to learn how to turn and push themselves off of the box with all four paws while also getting the ball,” Tamburini says. “They need to master the shape of the turn first, then we add the ball.”
  • Retrieve: Tamburini says that dogs need to learn how to retrieve a “still” ball that is placed. This can be a change for dogs who are only used to retrieving balls or other objects that are thrown.
  1. Get on a Team

Since Flyball is a team sport, you’ll need a team of four dogs to compete in trials. Don’t worry about finding your own team though, getting involved in a club will point you in the right direction.

“Each club fields their own teams, so whichever club you are training with in your area will help put you on a team to play with,” says Goggin. “There are no height or speed requirements, and most clubs can accommodate faster or slower dogs. Small dogs are actually very nice to have because the smallest/shortest dog on the team sets the jump height!”

Don’t worry if your dog isn’t the fastest or most impressive on the team. “People love to watch all different types of dogs run and you will often see the silliest or slowest dogs being the crowd favorites,” says Goggin.

How Long Does Flyball Training Take?

Like agility, there can be a big learning curve when you first get started in flyball. Goggin tells folks “to expect about a year of training before being tournament ready (some dogs will take more time and some will take less).”

She recommends working on recall, basic obedience, and impulse control skills to give dogs a step up in training flyball skills. Tamburini recommends working on these foundational skills at home where possible. “Working on foundations at home will speed training up so you can focus on team skills at class/practice.”

Tamburini agrees with Goggin that getting competition-ready for flyball can take quite a while. “I’ve seen dogs that are competition ready within a year of starting training and I’ve seen others that take years and years,” she says. “There are many, many components that a dog has to master before being able to compete such as going over all of the jumps consistently, bringing the ball all the way back over the start line, passing dogs nose to nose, ignoring the dogs in the other lane, coming back to the handler consistently. It is really common for a dog to struggle with one of those components and it takes time to get them ready.”

If you’re interested in getting started in flyball, know that it will likely require months of consistent training before you’re truly ready to compete. If you want to try out a sport that takes less upfront training time, consider FastCAT or rally.

How to Find and Enter Flyball Events

Flyball includes obstacles like box turnes.
Dogs participating in flyball learn how to complete box turns, rebounding off of the slanted side of the flyball box while grabbing a ball. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

Both of the two main flyball associations (NAFA and U-FLI) have sections on their websites to search for upcoming tournaments based on location. U-FLI allows you to search by state, while NAFA requires you to search by region. NAFA regions may contain just one state, or up to eight states depending on location. Dogs need to be 15 months or older to compete in flyball tournaments.

Unlike most other dog sports, Flyball entries typically need to be made as a team. Your team needs to be registered with the hosting organization of the tournament you’re interested in before you can enter. Some organizations offer singles or pairs competitions, but the bulk of flyball tournaments are focused on team events.

How to Earn Flyball Titles

Tamburini explains that teams are selected to compete against each other based on speed. “Teams of 4-6 dogs are entered with seed times for a tournament so teams are racing other teams with a similar speed in a division.”

As you compete against these teams, your team earns points towards winning their division. You can also accumulate titles if you compete in NAFA sanctioned tournaments. Goggin explains that you can accumulate points towards titles by completing team races, and the cleaner the run, the more points you get. “If all four dogs run under 24 seconds without human or dog faults they each get the maximum available points,” she says. “Fewer points are awarded for each clean heat run over 24 seconds, but under 32 seconds.”

Dogs that fault during their run must then rerun, and the first team with four dogs that all run clean will win. “Rerunning the dog adds to their overall time,” says Tamburini. “Common faults include fast starting or early passing, dropped balls, going around the jumps or crossing into the other lane.”

Should I Try Flyball With My Dog?

Hurdles are part of the obstacles a dog must overcome on a flyball course.
A flyball lane has four hurdles that each dog must clear as they run to the box and as they return to the start line. Credit: Tiffany Schulze Photography

If you’re interested in trying out flyball, Goggin recommends stopping by a local tournament and talking to competitors to learn more. “Since flyball is a team sport, playing with other people that have the same goals and values that you do is so important,” she says. “We are all here to have fun with our dogs and it’s easier to do that if you’re having fun with the people you’re with!”

Goggin also recommends shopping around for a club, so don’t feel pressured to join the first club you come in contact with. “Most people will support trying to find the right fit,” she says.

Tamburini recommends that folks who get involved with flyball be prepared to work as a team. “Be ready to help your teammates train their dog, help your team with various jobs, be willing to compromise and do what’s best for the group,” she says.

How To Have a Dog in an Apartment

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A happy dog living in an apartment.
If you want to keep a high-energy dog happy in an apartment, you will need to spend extra time making sure they get enough exercise and enrichment. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Taking care of a dog in an apartment can be complicated. Apartments often have limited outdoor areas for dogs to run in, less indoor space to play or train in, and a plethora of human and canine neighbors to try to get along with. That said, don’t give up hope! Most types and sizes of dogs can do well in apartments provided they get the right amount of exercise and mental stimulation.

That said, there are some things to consider when bringing a puppy to live with you in an apartment or moving to an apartment with a dog.

What Kinds of Dogs Do Well in Apartments?

While apartment living is possible with most dogs, it is significantly easier to find a place to rent and live there comfortably with a smaller, lower-energy dog. Limited space is one of the biggest challenges for dogs living in apartments. The more space the dog needs, the harder it is to get that need met in a small rental, especially when the weather gets bad.

It’s also worth noting that dogs who are comfortable with people and other dogs tend to be a better fit for apartment life. In addition to much more human activity than living in a house, dog-friendly apartment complexes often have a lot of dogs in residence. While socialization and training can help, having doors opening, people walking by at all hours, and strange dogs everywhere can be hard on dogs who are reactive or those who prefer to have some space between themselves and the neighbors.

If you are looking to get a specific breed of dog, do your research. Small dogs aren’t always low-energy—just ask anyone with a Jack Russell. If you’re looking to adopt a dog, consider an older dog. Not only will the dog be done growing, you’ll also have a better sense of whether they will be the right fit for apartment life.

How to Have a Big Dog in an Apartment

Large, high-energy dogs need a lot more from their owners when confined to a small apartment, mostly due to their exercise needs. While a tiny Toy Poodle may be able to get enough exercise running laps around the kitchen island, that probably won’t work for a Belgian Malinois. If you have a big dog, plan for multiple daily walks, keeping in mind that you will never be able to skip the walk in favor of letting the dog out in the yard to run.

In addition to walks, it helps to have some strategies for exercising your dog indoors. These can include activities like hallway walks, puppy push-ups, and (if space and non-skid floors allow) treat chasing. For more on how to exercise and play with your dog inside, see “How To Entertain Your Dog at Home.”

Becoming a member of a club or signing up for classes that focus on dog sports such as agility, flyball, or dock diving can also be a good way to keep a big dog happy in an apartment. Not only will these activities keep your dog well-exercised, they can also be a fun, mentally stimulating outlet for you both. As always, check with your vet to be sure your dog is healthy enough to participate before getting started.

If you have a dog who likes to socialize and can find a doggy daycare you trust, consider dropping your dog off for playtime several days a week to help meet her exercise needs. Good daycares usually keep group sizes small, provide a variety of activities mixed with rest times, and emphasize matching dogs with the right playmates.

While not specific to living in an apartment, keep in mind that dogs—big and small, high- or low-energy—need regular mental stimulation. Bored dogs are far more likely to develop unwanted behaviors, which can be particularly difficult in an apartment since excessive barking or destructive chewing can become big issues with fellow tenants and landlords. For some tips on providing good mental stimulation for your dog, check out “The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs.”

Common Dog Restrictions When Renting An Apartment

When it comes to renting an apartment with a dog, remember that even places which allow pets typically have restrictions. These can include:

  • Weight: Rental properties regularly have pet weight restrictions with 50- and 25-pound limits being the most common. While rental agents probably won’t pull out a scale to weigh your dog, they will check the dog’s vet records to verify her size.
  • Number of pets: Most rentals that allow pets have a two-pet limit. Having more than two can make it much more difficult to find an apartment.
  • Age: Though less common than other restrictions on this list, rental properties occasionally won’t accept dogs under 1 year old.
  • Unvaccinated pets: Rental apartments often have vaccination requirements for any dog living on the property. If your dog cannot receive a required vaccine—even for a medically significant reason such as an allergy—or if you prefer to do vaccine titer tests rather than having your dog vaccinated on a set schedule, you may run into trouble when trying to rent.
  • Breed: Some rentals, particularly larger, company-managed apartment complexes, have breed restrictions. These restrictions, which seem to stem from public perception and perceived liability, usually target so-called “aggressive” breeds such as Pit Bulls and Rottweilers. This can extend to banning any dog that appears to be a mix of a banned breed.

One potential trouble spot when living in an apartment that has these types of restrictions can be getting a puppy whose genetic background is unclear. If one or both of a puppy’s parents are a mystery, it can be very hard to tell how big she might get or what she will look like as an adult—even with DNA testing. A dog who was allowed in an apartment as a puppy might become a lease violation when she grows bigger than expected or starts to resemble a banned breed. Some landlords might be understanding and grant an exemption, but they are not required to do so. Lease terms can be unforgiving—and very difficult to appeal. If you are found to have a pet that is not in compliance with the lease terms, you could be required to remove the animal from the property within 24 hours of notification.

In short, it is important to thoroughly read and understand the pet policy at any rental property you are considering moving into with a dog. Get a copy in writing and check that the lease terms match both the written pet policy and what you have been told. Once signed, the lease and any addendums attached to it are a legally binding agreement. It doesn’t matter if a leasing agent or landlord told you “Oh, we never enforce that clause. It’ll be fine.” They can still enforce anything you agreed to when you signed.

Additional Expenses When Renting with a Dog

Having a dog in an apartment can come with extra expenses. Many apartments require a pet deposit in addition to the security deposit. The amount varies but is usually at least $300. Monthly “pet rent” fees are also common. These can range from as little as $10 a month per pet to over $100 a month per pet. When moving out of an apartment, some rentals require an extra cleaning fee. This fee is typically assessed for any unit where pets lived and isn’t based on damage.

If your dog does damage anything while you are living in an apartment, assume you will have to pay for it. That said, some renter’s insurance will cover pet damage, so be sure to check your policy before paying out of pocket.

Special Considerations for Living in an Apartment with a Dog

There are a few final things to note before moving into an apartment with a dog:

  • Training is important for any dog, but it is perhaps even more so for dogs living in an apartment. Outside of apartment living, very few circumstances expose dogs to so many people and pets living so close. Good manners not only make apartment life easier for you and your dog, they also make it safer for the dog.
  • As discussed in “How To Potty Train a Puppy in an Apartment,” house training a dog in a big apartment complex can be a challenge due to the distance between the living space and the outdoors. Make a plan and get any necessary supplies before the dog arrives.
  • Expect the company or landlord to require a copy of your dog’s vet records. You may also be asked to verify your dog’s behavioral history. Be honest. If it is discovered that inaccurate information was given, you could be asked to remove the dog from the property immediately.
  • Consider getting your dog’s AKC Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title. Some rental properties  give discounts to dogs with a CGC.
  • Crate training is pretty much essential for a dog living in an apartment. It’s common for maintenance workers to need to enter the unit to do regular upkeep or respond to resident requests. Even if you can be home every time someone needs to enter the apartment, it is still easier and safer if your dog can wait comfortably in her crate while people (who may not be comfortable with dogs) are in and out.

While the requirements associated with having a dog in an apartment may sound daunting, it’s not all bad! Many dog-friendly rentals offer great amenities such as on-site dog washrooms, dog parks, and pet-centered community events. As with any other living arrangement, the trick is to understand the challenges and assess what your dog needs to be happy, safe, and healthy.

Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of Another Dog?

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How do you help a dog cope with the loss of another dog?
Much like with humans, symptoms of grief in dogs cand include loss of appetite, disrupted sleep, lethargy, avoiding play, and clinginess. Credit: jpfotograaf | Getty Images

Every one of us who has lived with and loved a dog knows the pain of grief when we lose them. But what about the other dogs in our home? Do they grieve the loss as well?

Answering this question isn’t as simple as it sounds. Of course! you may say, explaining how you’ve seen it for yourself when you’ve lost one dog and another was left behind. Or you might be someone who rolls your eyes at the idea that dogs—or any beings other than humans—are capable of such a complex emotion as grief. Even scholars are divided: some insist that most animals have emotions; others argue that emotions are uniquely human; and still others fall somewhere between the two positions.[i]

 

 

How Do You Help a Dog Cope with the Loss of Another Dog?

There is no set timeline for how long your dog will grieve the loss of a close companion. As with humans who are grieving, you may find that some days your dog seems to be handling it well while other days she struggles. However, there are some things you can do to help your dog cope with grief:

  1. Keep to an established routine. It can be difficult to maintain a routine after a loss, but keeping a consistent schedule can help a grieving dog feel safe.
  2. Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise. Getting up and moving—even if it’s just a short, gentle walk—can encourage a dog who is grieving to reengage with the world. It can also help reduce lethargy, stimulate appetite, and encourage normal sleep patterns.
  3. Spend time with your dog. One of the biggest things you can do to help a grieving dog is to spend time with her. This can be anything from sitting quietly in the same room with her to making time for extra play sessions. That said, don’t force it or overwhelm her with attention. If the dog leaves when you sit down next to her, it’s okay. Give her some space and try again later.
  4. Set up visits with friends. If your dog likes to socialize, extra playdates with dog friends may be just what she needs to help her through the grieving process. However, if your dog avoids interacting, shows signs of anxiety, or acts grumpy or aggressive towards other dogs, stop the playdate right away and try something else instead.
  5. Training can help. Spending some time each day on training can help engage a grieving dog’s mind. It doesn’t have to be anything difficult. Celebrate small successes, even if the dog’s performance isn’t as sharp as usual. If your dog seems up for it, add in some new tricks, games, or activities.

It’s important to remember that there is no way to force your dog through the grieving process. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you about what they need. If you’re out of ideas or are concerned for your dog’s well-being, don’t hesitate to reach out to a vet or behaviorist for advice. – Kate O’Connor

Historical Perspectives On Animal Emotions

For most of the last two thousand years, while the lay public wholeheartedly believed that animals had emotions, the majority of Western philosophers scoffed at the idea, insisting that animals have nothing more than instincts that require no conscious thought. Charles Darwin strongly differed with this approach, arguing that emotions are found not just in humans, but across all species.[ii]  This was in keeping with the Enlightenment of the 17th and 18th centuries, when philosophers began to put forth the idea that animals possessed reason and could suffer.[iii]  By the end of the 19th century, even the most unyielding scientists were accepting the concept of sentience, the capacity of humans and animals to experience feelings and awareness.

That belief was all but extinguished by the emergence of Behaviorism in the early 20th century. Its adherents insisted that science needed to put an end to using terms like sensation, perception, desire, and emotion, since they had no objective reality.[iv]  For much of that century, Behaviorism reigned, along with the view that false science was responsible for the mistaken belief that animals had emotions.

Then came the mid-1980s when many scientists, spurred by discoveries from pioneering animal behaviorists, along with anecdotes from long-term field studies by researchers like Jane Goodall, developed a renewed interest in animal sentience and how animals feel.[v],[vi]  That interest has continued to this day.

New Attitudes Toward Animal Grief

Which brings us back to the question of grief, and whether animals—dogs, specifically—are capable of feeling grief after the loss of another dog. Recent studies say yes, and that’s backed up by the experiences of countless dog caretakers. While not even the most astute scientist or animal behaviorist can know with absolute certainty what dogs know and feel about death and dying, researchers have come closer than ever before to being able to say with some degree of certainty that dogs do mourn the death of another dog in their household.

Anthropologist and author of How Animals Grieve, Dr. Barbara J. King, maintains that even though humans have a rational awareness of death and its finality, the ability to mourn doesn’t depend upon that understanding. “Our own ways of mourning may be unique,” she says, “but the human capacity to grieve deeply is something we share with other animals.”[vii]

What Studies Reveal About Grief in Dogs

To understand animal grief, researchers generally impose two preconditions: first, that the animals actively choose to spend time together; and second, when one animal dies, the survivor’s normal behaviors change, sometimes drastically, and sometimes to the point of death.[viii]  In 2022, a team of Italian researchers completed a years-long study on these kinds of changes, and came to the conclusion that the emotional bonds dogs form with humans often extend to other animals in their household, and that the death of a companion dog can result in behaviors that would typically be identified as grief and mourning.

Among the dog caretakers in the study, 86 percent observed negative changes in the surviving dog’s behavior; more than a third said the changes lasted between two and six months, and a quarter reported that they lasted longer than six months.[ix] The study rejected the theory that the caretaker’s own grief was simply being reflected onto the surviving dog, and determined that the changes in the dog’s conduct were genuine. Interestingly, researchers also found that what mattered most in terms of the degree of grief was not how long the two dogs had lived together, but the strength of their bond.[x]

When one dog in the household dies, the surviving dog may not understand that the separation is permanent, but they clearly feel the loss…which we know by observing their behavior. In 1996, the ASPCA conducted the Companion Animal Mourning Project, which found that when a dog’s companion dies, two thirds of surviving dogs showed a number of behavioral shifts, including appetite loss, sleep disruption, lethargy, increased vocalizing, avoiding play, clinginess, disorientation, and in extreme cases, wasting away.[xi]  Many of these behaviors are not unlike human mourning over the loss of a loved one.

The Nature of Grief in Dogs

Yet there remains a major problem hindering investigations into animal emotions: in the absence of a Vulcan mind probe, animal minds, just like the minds of our fellow human beings, are essentially private and unknowable, especially so because animals can’t tell us how they’re feeling. This adds fuel to the fire laid by old-school scientists who reject any theory that ventures into the territory of animal feelings. Renowned biologist and behavioral ecologist Marc Bekoff says that even if one day we discover that a dog’s brain activity is similar to a human’s when that person reports being happy or sorrowful, “some skeptics hold tightly to the view that it is impossible to know what animals are truly feeling, and that therefore these studies are fruitless.” He suggests that one reason for this intractable unwillingness to study animal emotions is because these researchers fear being labeled “soft” and “nonscientific.”[xii]

Bekoff and others believe that we need to consider not just empirical data, but also anecdotal evidence, like that provided by dog caretakers when they observe the apparently-grieving actions of their dogs after the loss of a companion dog. They argue that caretakers provide consistently reliable and accurate information about and interpretation of their animal’s behavior, evidence that simply wouldn’t be available to an outside observer in a laboratory setting.[xiii],[xiv],[xv]

“Even if joy and grief in dogs is not the same as joy and grief in chimpanzees, elephants, or humans, this does not mean that there is no such thing as dog joy or dog grief,” says Bekoff.[xvi] As heartbreaking as it is to see our beloved companions go through the painful process of grief, by recognizing that grief we can help them heal and cope—and perhaps ease our own grief as well.

In the end, we’re confronted with the question, What is the nature of grief? We may as well ask, What is the nature of love? since the two are so inextricably intertwined. As Barbara King reflects in How Animals Grieve, “What stands out…is not the hypotheses of human uniqueness, but the discovery that other animals do grieve, and that they grieve because they have loved.”[xvii]


[i] de Vere, Amber J. and Kuczaj, Stan A. II. “Where are we in the study of animal emotions?” Wiley Interdisciplinary Reviews: Cognitive Science. 2016. Accessed through ResearchGate. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Amber-De-Vere/publication/ 304250629_Where_are_we_in_the_study_of_animal_emotions/links/5b2bc122a6fdcc8506b7118d/

[ii] Ekman, Paul. “Darwin’s contributions to our understanding of emotional expressions.” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Dec 12, 2009; 364(1535):3449–3451. Accessed through National Library of Medicine PubMed. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2781895/

[iii] Duncan, Ian J.H. “Animal Welfare: A Brief History.” La Fondation Driot Animal: Éthique & Sciences. (Proceedings: Animal Welfare: from Science to Law). https://www.fondation-droit-animal.org/proceedings-aw/animal-welfare-a-brief-history

[iv] Katsnelson, Alla. “How do we know what emotions animals feel?” Science News April 8, 2022 https://www.sciencenews.org/article/animal-emotion-behavior-welfare-feelings

[v] Duncan, Ian J.H. “The changing concept of animal sentience.” Applied Animal Behaviour Science Volume 100, Issues 1–2, October 2006. Accessed through Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0168159106001110

[vi] Rowan, Andrew N., et al. “Animal sentience: history, science, and politics.” Animal Sentience 31(1). May 12, 2022. Accessed through WellBeing International. https://www.wellbeingintlstudiesrepository.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1697&context=animsent

[vii] King, Barbara J. “Humans Are Not the Only Creatures Who Mourn.” Scientific American. Sept 1, 2015. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/humans-are-not-the-only-creatures-who-mourn/

[viii] ibid

[ix] Coren, Stanley, Ph.D. “Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of a Canine Housemate?” Psychology Today. March 1, 2022. Reporting on study noted in endnote 10.

[x] Uccheddu, Stefania; Ronconi, Lucia, et al. “Domestic dogs (Canis familiaris) grieve over the loss of a conspecific.” Scientific Reports 12, article number 1920. February 24, 2022. Accessed through Nature. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-022-05669-y#citeas

[xi] Hunter, Tammy, DVM; Llera, Ryan, BSc, DVM; Buzhardt, Lynn, DVM. “Do Dogs Mourn?” VCA Animal Hospitals. No date. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/do-dogs-mourn

[xii] Bekoff, Mark. “Animal Emotions: Exploring Passionate Natures: Current interdisciplinary research provides compelling evidence that many animals experience such emotions as joy, fear, love, despair, and grief—we are not alone.” BioScience, Volume 50, Issue 10. October 2000.Accessed through Oxford Academic Journals. https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/50/10/861/233998

[xiii] Martens, Pimm; Enders-Slegers, Marie-José; and Walker, Jessica K.  “The Emotional Lives of Companion Animals: Attachment and Subjective Claims by Owners of Cats and Dogs.” Anthrozoös, 29(1). 2016. Accessed through Taylor & Francis Online https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/epdf/10.1080/08927936.2015.1075299?needAccess=true

[xiv] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xv] Panksepp, Jaak. “Affective Neuroscience: The Foundations of Human and Animal Emotions.” ISBN 978-0-195-17805-0. Oxford University Press. September, 2004.

[xvi] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xvii] King, Barbara J., Ph.D. How Animals Grieve. ISBN 978-0-226-43732-2. Oxford University Press. April 17, 2014.

Anaphylaxis in Dogs

Anaphylaxis in dogs is a medical emergency just like it is in humans.
If your dog is allergic to bee stings, allowing him to romp in a field of flowers might not be the best idea. Credit: Dageldog | Getty Images

Anaphylaxis in dogs is an immediate, severe, life-threatening allergic reaction. Potentially fatal symptoms can appear as quickly as within 5 minutes of exposure to an allergen. The most common causes are insect stings, vaccines, medications, and, rarely, foods.

Typical canine allergic reactions are itchy skin or gastrointestinal signs that develop over time. With anaphylaxis, things happen quickly. Anaphylactic shock is a full-blown, immediate reaction to an allergen.

What Is Anaphylaxis?

Anaphylaxis is a “type 1 hypersensitivity reaction,” which is an immediate, huge reaction to an allergen. It’s an overreaction, basically, with a massive output of histamine by mast cells.

In people, the first reaction is usually respiratory. In dogs, diarrhea and vomiting are the most reported first signs, as the liver is a primary target organ. Swelling (hives), drooling, shock, seizures, difficulty breathing, and death may follow quickly.

Dogs Anaphylaxis Timeline

Signs of anaphylaxis tend to start within 5 to 30 minutes of exposure to the offending antigen and worsen. In dogs, drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea are usually noticed first. If an insect bite or sting is involved, you may see hives or obvious tissue swelling right away. When anaphylaxis hits, it can quickly become anaphylactic shock.

In anaphylactic shock, the dog’s blood vessels dilate, so less oxygenated blood is available to the tissues. The heart speeds up to compensate, but vital organs like the brain and the heart itself are deprived. Anaphylactic shock is not common, but it can be fatal without rapid treatment. If you suspect this severe allergic reaction, head to the nearest veterinary clinic ASAP. Call them on the way, so they know you’re arriving.

Treatment for Dogs with Anaphylactic Shock

Treatment aims at counteracting the histamine release that is behind the clinical signs. Your veterinarian will administer corticosteroids and antihistamines along with epinephrine to work to constrict those dilated blood vessels. Dogs who are severely affected may need an endotracheal tube placed to ensure breathing is not threatened. Intravenous fluids may be required to restore vascular homeostasis (blood vessel function).

People known to suffer from anaphylaxis are often dispensed an EpiPen so they can get epinephrine right away. There are currently no EpiPens for dogs. However, because epinephrine is the main drug for treatment, your veterinarian may prescribe an EpiPen “off label” with very clear instructions for use, if a dog is at risk for anaphylactic shock. This may not be possible with small- or medium-sized dogs.

Prevention of Anaphylaxis

Obviously, if your dog has suffered an anaphylactic event, you want to avoid a recurrence. If the reaction was due to an insect sting, you will need to be super vigilant about checking your yard and home for insects such as bees and wasps.

If you can identify a food trigger, avoid that food. The same for a medication trigger. There are almost always other medications that can provide the same, or very similar treatment.

With vaccinations, if the reaction was mild (simple swelling of the muzzle for example), your veterinarian may break your dog’s vaccines down and limit him to only the necessary core vaccines, given a month apart.

Veterinarians often will pre-medicate the dog by having you come in early for an appointment and giving your dog some corticosteroids, for example. They will often then have you wait for at least 30 minutes before leaving the clinic to catch any possible reaction early on. For some dogs, going to titers to verify immunity is a solution, although many states will not accept titers for proof of rabies vaccination.

Why Do Dogs Bark at Nothing?

Why do dogs bark at nothing? There could be several causes for the behavior but it isn't nothing to the dog.
No dog barks at “nothing.” The trick is to figure out what he’s barking at or develop a cue that reassures the dog, like “It’s nothing. I’ve got this.” Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Every dog who barks has a reason for it. Why the dog is barking depends heavily on who your dog is as well as the context and the environment. Causes for barking at what appears to be “nothing” include:

  • Sounds that are not audible to humans
  • Smells that their sensitive noses detect but humans can’t
  • Boredom and attention seeking
  • Pain
  • Something they want
  • Anxiety

Determining the cause of barking depends on the individual context. I always talk to my dogs to tell them what was going on, and you should, too.  Expert Kathy Callahan, a Whole Dog Journal contributor, explains this beautifully in her article, “How to Talk to Your Dog,” clearly demonstrating how important this can be.

For example, I have categories for my dogs and dismiss them with an “I’ve got this” tone of voice. Years ago, I attended a seminar by noted dog trainer Pam Dennison. She taught us to name people seen by the dogs, like saying, “It’s just Uncle Fred” and sounding dismissive. It works wonderfully with my crew.

My categories include:

  • It means just that. It means, “You’re fine. It’s nothing.”
  • This is someone we will greet/who comes into the house.
  • A person we see regularly but don’t greet.
  • People we see in the neighborhood who are working, like mowing.
  • Vehicles with sirens.
  • A passing vehicle.
  • Any delivery person.
  • Not here. A sound that’s far away and safe.

This is a growing list of categories that I use to communicate with my dog.

Why Is My Dog Barking All of a Sudden?

Your dog has sensed something that our human senses cannot pick up on. It’s not nothing; it is an alert thing. When it happens, it happens. Some categories of things that cause your dog to appear to bark at nothing include:

Sounds: Your hearing will never be as astute as your dog’s.  Sometimes, it’s simply a matter of going to the door/window that your dog is focusing on. That sound may become vaguely audible to you or you might see a chirping squirrel that your dog can hear but you cannot. Dismiss this with, “It’s nothing.”

Smells: Scent is another thing that can fall into my “it’s nothing” category, if I cannot detect the source. It’s worked well thus far with my super sensitive adolescent livestock guarding dog. The trick is to sound confident that you have things handled and dismiss the thing with your voice. Follow that with some soft verbal reinforcement when your dog accepts your decision.

Boredom: It’s important to know how much enrichment, both physical and mental, that your dog needs every given day. All dogs are different. Age, activity level, intelligence, health, and fitness status need to be taken into consideration. Truly, all dogs need both mental and physical enrichment. The higher energy the dog, the more mental enrichment they need. Keep that in mind when determining the cause of the barking. Your dog may be bored and need to go for a walk.

Pain: If the barking is new, especially with no identifiable cause, consider pain. It’s never a bad idea to rule out a medical issue. Pain causes so much mental anguish in any sentient being.

Desire: Is their toy stuck, do they want to play, are they hungry, do they want to be closer to you? Look around and see what the context is. We humans spend so much time zoning out with electronics these days, we often miss things that are right there, like our dog needing help fetching his toy under the couch.

Anxiety: This is another potential cause where the context needs to be thoroughly looked at. Is your dog only barking at night? The dark can cause anxiety in some dogs, especially those who may be losing their sight or feeling vulnerable in some way. Sudden barking, especially at night, may also mean that they sense something going on outside that you haven’t.

Note: Barking at night or barking for no reason can also be a sign of canine cognitive dysfunction in  your dog, including the same sundowner’s syndrome that people get.

So, before you exclaim, “Why is my dog barking at nothing?” put your detective hat on and find the something. Then, start working on an “It’s nothing” cue that tells your dog you’ve investigated the problem, telling your dog everything is just fine.

The “Magic” Skunk Formula is Science, Not Magic…

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These simple recipes provide a simple way to remove skunk smell from a dog.
These are all the ingredients you need to remove 98% of the skunk smell from your dog. If you have any cuts on your hands, wear gloves, because it stings! (And keep if out of the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth for the same reason.) Photo by Nancy Kerns

Boone got skunked about a couple of weeks ago—and of course, it happened when I stayed up too late watching a movie and I was just about to go to bed. I had taken my foster dog out to pee one last time, hoping to sleep in a bit the next morning, and while I was waiting for her to “go,” Boone managed to find and engage a skunk in another part of our yard. It was a super bummer, because it would be another hour before I could actually go to bed and Boone would be receiving a cold-water bath outdoors, but it wasn’t as bad as it would have been if I hadn’t had two quarts of hydrogen peroxide in the laundry-room closet.

Decades ago, a chemist named Paul Krebaum (may his name be honored forever) cracked the chemical code of the stinky, sulfur-containing substances called “thiols” that are in the musk that skunks spray to defend themselves. According to an article first published in the Chicago Tribune in November 1994, Krebaum, who worked for a company called Molex Inc in Lisle, Illinois, wasn’t trying to solve the skunk-spray problem at the time. He was looking for a substance that could neutralize the smell of other thiols, which are also present in decomposing flesh and fecal matter. In an effort to neutralize foul-smelling thiols in his lab, Krebaum harnessed the power of oxidation, formulating a solution that changes the odorous thiols into odorless acids. He had been using the formula in his lab, but he shared the recipe with a workplace friend who had been complaining about the smell of his cat, who had been skunked. Soon, other scientists heard about the formula and it went viral!

 

The formula:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
¼ cup of baking soda
1-2 teaspoons of dish soap

Mix together in a bucket or large bowl and use immediately.

So simple and inexpensive! And so incredibly effective! But there are some tricks and cautions about how to use it on a “skunked” dog:

  1. You must not wash the dog with water before using the formula. Water will start to chemically alter the thiols and make their interaction with the “magic” formula slightly less effective.
  2. You have to use a fresh, unopened bottle of hydrogen peroxide. Using peroxide from a bottle that has been opened and sitting around will be less effective. (Note: You can’t mix this in advance and store it; if you try, you may end up with a huge mess in your under-sink cupboard or wherever you thought you could store it. The combination of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide off-gasses oxygen and can explode whatever container you try to keep it in.)
  3. If your dog gets skunked on a warm summer day, you are in luck! It’s easiest to keep the dog outdoors while you assemble the ingredients, a bucket, sponge, and a dog shampoo and towels to finish the job. But skunks are nocturnal, and are most active in spring and fall, so almost all of my dogs’ skunk encounters have happened late at night when it’s cold. A kind person would bring them in the house and straight to the bathroom for the de-skunking and post-formula bath—but just walking (or carrying) your dog to the bathroom is going to leave a strong skunk smell in the air of your house that the formula can’t remove! Poor Boone got a cold-hose bath outside. We were both shivering like mad by the time it was done.
  4. Mix the formula in a clean bucket and use a sponge or washcloth to thoroughly wet your dog from nose to tail with the solution. I recommend starting at the tail end of the dog and working your way forward, because you have to be extremely careful around his eyes, nose, and mouth and will want to rinse the formulas off these areas quickly (and, remember, water will weaken the effectiveness of the formula). The formula really stings if it gets in the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth (or any cuts you or the dog have have), so you have to wipe it on the dog’s face carefully.
  5. You will notice that the skunk smell is dramatically reduced almost immediately on contact with the formula—but, with the exception of the dog’s face, let it remain in contact with the dog’s coat for at least a minute or two before rinsing the dog thoroughly with water. Knowing it can sting their lips and mouth, and because you cannot prevent them from licking their lips when you are sponging something wet onto to their face, I tend to take pity and rinse the dog’s face fairly quickly. (The skunk smell will disappear immediately, but if you don’t let the formula stay on the dog for at least a minute, it may become evident again any time the dog gets wet in the next few weeks. It won’t be as strong, but it will be apparent!) Rinse them thoroughly!
  6. Follow with a quick bath with whatever soothing, good-smelling dog shampoo you have on hand and rinse them well. It’s not necessary, but they are all wet already and the nice smell of the shampoo will be a balm for your irritated nostrils.

There are a number of commercial formulas that claim to be effective for removing odors (including skunk) from your dog, but honestly, I haven’t tried any of them for skunks, because why would I? This formula works great! You just have to make sure you have the peroxide on hand at all times, or you will be driving around town in the wee hours of the night or morning, looking for an open supermarket or pharmacy where you can buy quarts of peroxide, all the while your dog is stinking up whatever location you stashed him in while you went out. I’ve been there! And now I buy two new quarts on the day after whatever skunk incident we most recently suffered ( I double the recipe for washing either of my large dogs.)

For tips on reducing the skunk smell on your clothing, shoes, towels, deck or bathroom, and so on, see this document, prepared by the University of Nebraska, Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

When to Choose a Dog Recovery Suit

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A dog recovery suit can
A good dog surgery recovery suit covers the surgical area entirely, is comfortable for the dog to wear, and opens easily so the dog can easily potty. The best surgery suit is the one that fits your dog best. Cindy Foley photo.

A dog recovery suit puts the dreaded cone of shame to shame. That plastic Elizabethan cone that has been traditionally used to stop dogs from licking, biting, or scratching at wounds, surgical stitches, and skin irritations works, but it’s not comfortable. Dogs crash into chairs and corners and even other dogs and humans, just trying to walk through the house to get a drink of water! A dog recovery suit after a neutering or after a spay is not only less cumbersome for your dog, it is also more effective option than a cone. The downside? Cost. But our dogs are worth it.

A Dog Recovery Suit Is a Medical Garment

A dog recovery suit, sometimes referred to as dog surgical recovery suits, are form-fitting bodysuits designed to cover various parts of a dog’s body, like a onesie for humans. “These medical garments are typically made from lightweight, breathable fabrics that protect surgical sites, wounds, or skin conditions while allowing the dog to move naturally,” says Joanne Fernandez-Lopez, DVM, director of veterinary affairs at ABCs Puppy Zs, a breeder in Coppell, Texas.

Fernadez-Lopez says recovery suits provide several benefits over traditional collars and cones. “Unlike cones that can bump into furniture and doorways, recovery suits allow dogs to navigate their environment more easily. Many dogs find bodysuits less distressing than cones, as they maintain normal peripheral vision and movement.”

Why a Dog Recovery Suit

Dog recovery suits are not only more fashionable than those bulky collars, they also serve as almost a second skin and offer these benefits:

  • Fewer infections. By preventing dogs from licking or biting at wounds, recovery suits significantly reduce the risk of infections. This is especially important for surgical incisions and skin irritations.
  • Better wound protection. A clean and well-protected environment created by a recovery suit can facilitate faster healing. It prevents dirt and other irritants from reaching the wound. Using a dog recovery suit after neutering or spaying is particularly common.
  • Canine comfort. Recovery suits can help alleviate discomfort and anxiety for dogs recovering from procedures or injuries. The protective layer can provide a sense of security.
  • Protects sutures. For surgical procedures that involve stitches or staples, a recovery suit can help prevent them from being pulled or dislodged.
  • Wider coverage. Dogs can develop allergies and skin conditions such as dermatitis, and just as with humans, they can bring itchy, irritated skin. A recovery suit can help prevent them from scratching and further aggravating the condition.
  • Better healing. A dog recovery suit can also keep your dog away from hot spots, those circular areas of inflamed skin that can become infected, and allow them time to heal.

Suited for More Than Surgical Recovery

Beyond post-surgery and other medical conditions, recovery suits serve multiple purposes, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

  • Easing anxiety: “The gentle pressure can have a calming effect, like anxiety wraps useful during thunderstorms or fireworks,” she said, “They can also help reduce excessive barking and nervous behaviors.”
  • Alternative to diapers: Recovery suits can also help older dogs suffering from bladder control issues and offer protection for female dogs during heat cycles.
  • Regulating temperature: Dog recovery suits also offer protection from sun exposure, provide warmth for short-haired breeds, and offer post-grooming protection, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

Choosing the Right Recovery Suit

The best recovery suit for your dog will depend on their size, the nature of their injury or medical condition, and your pet’s comfort level. A variety of styles are available, including full-body suits, body wraps, sleeves protect one particular leg, and undershirts. (Be sure you purchase two surgery recovery suits for your dog, because you will need one for her to wear while the other is being washed and dried.)

When choosing a recovery suit, consider these options:

  1. Pick a size that allows the suit to fit snugly but comfortably, without restricting his movement.
  2. Look for a breathable, washable lightweight material to prevent your dog from getting too hot or experiencing any discomfort.
  3. Ease of pottying. Choose a suit designed to provide adequate coverage for the affected area while allowing for your dog’s needs, such as eating, drinking, and openings for bathroom breaks.

Note: Those with smaller dogs may be able to do a makeshift surgery recovery suit made out of a child’s onesie or even a makeshift T-shirt wrap for coverage. But, by and large, these improvised coverages will fail your dog’s teeth and persistent testing. With surgery suits for dogs starting at around $25, they’re truly the better bargain with far fewer accidents.

Dog Surgery Recovery Suits at a Glance

Note: Prices and sizes may vary.

Suitical Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its unique design allows for full mobility and comfort.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking, and allows for normal activities like eating and drinking.
Price: $28 and up

Shed Defender Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its lightweight, breathable fabric and calming design.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes healing.
Price: $30 and up

Calm Paws Calming Recovery Vest
Notable features: Its calming design and gentle pressure points.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes relaxation.
Price: $30 and up

AmazonBasics Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its affordability and basic functionality.
Benefits: Provides basic protection for wounds and prevents licking.
Price: $25 and up

Surgi Snuggly
Notable features: Their wide size range and comfortable, stretchy fabric.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and chewing, lightweight and breathable, allows for full body coverage in various sizes.
Price: $30 and up

BellyGuard – After Surgery Dog Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its unique design that features a built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs, comfortable and breathable fabric.
Price: $40 and up

VetMedWear Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its focus on veterinarian-recommended features and durability.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, veterinarian-approved design, durable and washable fabric.
Price: $48 and up

ZenPet ZenDog Anxiety Vest & Recovery Suit
Notable features: Dual-purpose design; soft, flexible fabric and easy step-in design.
Benefits: Effective for both recovery and anxiety
Price: $39 and up

Medical Pet Shirt
Notable features: Cotton-based fabric; strong seam construction
Benefits: Available in multiple styles for different recovery and other needs.
Price: $28 and up

Medipaw Dog Surgery Suit   
Notable features: Two-piece design for bathroom breaks. Removable bottoms can be left off if this area does not require protection.
Benefits Protects wounds, prevents licking/scratching

Identifying Dog Hip Dysplasia

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A hip dysplasia stance can be an early sign of hip dysplasia, but a dog's gait says more.
The puppy who didn’t get up to run with his littermates in this beautiful group of Golden Retriever puppies may be a suspect for hip dysplasia. Behavior like lagging behind or abnormally bad coordination is more telling than a hip dysplasia stance. Credit: Zuzule | Getty Images

Hip dysplasia in a puppy is an abnormally developed hip joint. It is very rarely caused by trauma to the puppy’s hip bone cartilage. In most cases, the puppy was born with hip dysplasia.

 

 

What Is Dog Hip Dysplasia?

The hip is a ball-and-socket joint. The head of the femur (the long bone below the hip) is the “ball” that should fit comfortably into the acetabulum, which is the concave “socket” on the pelvis. Ideally, these two areas develop, fit, and grow together, fitting neatly.

With dysplasia, the two parts don’t fit together tightly and fully. The femur head may be totally out of the socket of the acetabulum, or the acetabulum may be flattened to some extent, so it doesn’t “cup” the femoral head. In hip dysplasia, there is joint laxity that will contribute to the development of arthritis over time.

When Does Dysplasia Show Up in a Dog?

Severe cases of hip dysplasia may show up in a puppy as early as 4 months of age, but generally owners or veterinarians notice problems at 9 months to 1 year of age. Mild cases may not get diagnosed until a dog is even older, usually with clinical signs due to secondary osteoarthritis.

It can be difficult to identify a hip problem in young puppies, especially if the problem is mild. Puppies tend to move a bit galumpy, especially large and giant breeds, which tend to have the highest rates of hip problems. Some people think there is a puppy dog hip dysplasia stance, which is described as a narrow hind-leg stance, but the puppy’s gait, or movement, is a more telling sign of hip dysplasia.

How Do You Know Your Puppy Has Hip Dysplasia?

Limping is an obvious sign of dysplasia. If both rear legs are affected, however, the gait may appear normal but with a short stride. Within a litter, an affected pup may take longer to get up and get moving. He may be consistently left behind when the others take off running. His movement may appear “wobbly” or ataxic (kind of clumsy).

A puppy who tends to “bunny hop” frequently often has an orthopedic problem. (Many pups will do this occasionally but grow out of it.) You might notice that the pup does not stand square on all four feet but “off loads” weight on one hind leg. You can tell this by looking at the paws. Do they both look the same when standing on level ground? You can also see if your pup reacts the same when you go to pick up one hind leg versus the other.

Puppies with dysplasia often are less active due to soreness. An affected pup may have more trouble doing stairs than littermates. While most puppies don’t show acute pain, some will. Those pups may snap or cry if you touch or try to manipulate the painful hip joint. Astute owners may notice a difference in muscle mass between the two rear legs if only one hip is involved.

Veterinary Diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia

An x-ray or other veterinary testing can confirm hip dyslpasia where a stance or gait only indicates it.
This X-ray shows an 8-month-old puppy with hip dysplasia. Note the subluxation on both hips.
Credit: CatPaws | iStock

Ortolani Sign. Your veterinarian may be able to predict hip dysplasia by checking for the Ortolani Sign, which is a way for your veterinarian to grade hip laxity. This manipulation is based on a test done on newborn human babies. According to the American College of Veterinary Surgeons, “Many primary care veterinarians can perform this exam during the early age, 10 to 16 weeks, often done at vaccination or wellness exams. If the Ortolani Sign is not present, there is a false negative possibility that can be resolved by the quantitative PennHIP method.”

 

 

PennHIP radiographs. The PennHIP evaluation for puppy joint laxity can be officially done as young as 16 weeks of age. For definitive diagnosis, the PennHIP radiographs are the way to go. PennHIP requires general anesthesia or heavy sedation, some special equipment, and a certification process completed by veterinarians performing the procedure. A big advantage to this evaluation is that if joint laxity is conformed, the puppy has multiple surgical options available to minimize potential lifelong disability. Some of those surgical procedures are best done by a year of age.

OFA System. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or OFA, is the best-known radiographic system for evaluating hips in dogs. This involves one film that is evaluated by three veterinary radiologists. A pup can have a preliminary report done at a year of age with a permanent evaluation done at two years of age.

Treatment for Puppy Hip Dysplasia

Owners of puppies with hip dysplasia have four surgical treatment options. These procedures should be done by board-certified veterinary surgeons as these are complicated orthopedic procedures. The future activity level of the puppy will vary with the procedure. Strict post-op care and rehabilitation will be important.

Mild cases of hip dysplasia. Luckily, most dogs with mild hip dysplasia do not require surgery for good quality of life. Diet and nutrition are extremely important. Puppies should not be allowed to get overweight and should be on a balanced diet suitable for puppies (with special consideration for large and giant breed puppies). Slow, steady growth is ideal. Moderate exercise is important as well. This means daily leash walking and low-impact exercise like swimming. You want to keep the affected joints from getting stiff from disuse but not overly strain them.

Rehab helps. If your veterinary clinic has a rehab department, it is ideal to work with them to come up with a program to keep your pup fit but not overstressed. That might involve exercises to do at home, use of a treadmill (dry or underwater), and a walking regimen. Avoid sports like leaping after a flying disc or agility.

Maybe to Supplements. Cartilage protection and joint supplements don’t have extensive clinical proof but, anecdotally, many of them help keep dogs with arthritis comfortable. Discuss which ones make sense for your pup with your veterinarian. Be aware that some dog foods already contain joint supplements, but the amounts included are rarely enough to be therapeutic.

NSAIDs for pain. For days when your pup is in pain, NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) may be needed for good quality of life.

Prevention of Hip Dysplasia

How can you avoid or prevent hip dysplasia? Start by getting a puppy with an extensive health pedigree for good hips—ask the breeder. This means his parents had hip evaluations, as well as aunts, uncles, grandparents, etc. While this is not a guarantee of good hips, since it is a polygenic trait with environmental influences, it is a great start.

Keep your puppy slim while growing up. Avoid high joint-stress exercise. That means no long runs, minimal trips up and down lots of steps, and no or minimal jumping while joints are still developing and growth plates have not closed.

How Much Does Dog Grooming Cost?

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How much it costs to groom a dog varies by the type of dog and grooming needs.
The cost of getting a dog professionally groomed depends a lot on what services you are looking for. The more complex the haircut, the more expensive it will likely be. Credit: photokool | Getty Images

Some dogs look great and stay healthy with a good brushing and occasional bath while others need regular professional help. So how much does salon grooming cost and what can you do to make grooming more affordable?

Keep in mind that grooming costs can vary widely depending on factors such as:

  • Your dog’s breed, size, and coat type
  • Your location (regional area, city, suburbs, rural)
  • Your groomer’s training, experience, equipment, and grooming facility
  • Your dog’s coat condition and previous grooming experience

How Much Dog Grooming Costs on Average

Basic grooming sessions usually include a bath and brush-out, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and a simple haircut or trim. Based on size, nationwide averages for these basic dog grooming services are:

  • $30 to $50 for small dogs (up to 20 pounds)
  • $50 to $80 for medium-sized dogs (20 to 50 pounds)
  • $80 to $120 for large dogs (50 to 80 pounds)
  • $120 to $200 for giant breeds (over 80 pounds)

More extensive dog grooming services include a deep-cleaning bath, detailed haircut, anal gland expression, teeth brushing, or other specialized treatments. Comprehensive grooming packages average:

  • $50 to $80 for small dogs
  • $80 to $110 for medium-sized dogs
  • $110 to $150 for large dogs
  • $150 to $250 for giant breeds

Special dog grooming services add additional fees to basic prices. Examples include:

  • De-matting treatments that remove snarls, tangles, and mats ($10 to $100 extra depending on the coat’s condition)
  • Flea baths and flea treatments ($10 to $45 extra)
  • Medicated baths or specialized skin treatments ($15 to $45 extra)
  • Shed-control treatments (price depends on size and coat)
  • Stand-alone nail trims, which can often be done on a drop-in basis for an average fee of $15.

When to Go to a Professional Groomer

Professional grooming is most important when your dog has a complex coat, you don’t have time to perform thorough at-home grooming, or your dog has a skin condition that requires specialized care.

Keep in mind that prices vary by region. In general, grooming prices are highest in large cities and lower in rural areas. In addition, mobile groomers, who come to your home, are more expensive than groomers who work in salons. In the end, everything depends on supply (the number of qualified, experienced groomers and the services they offer) and demand (the number of dogs and owners needing their attention). For accurate estimates in your area, contact local groomers and grooming salons.

Grooming Factors to Consider When Getting a Dog

If you are shopping for a dog or planning to adopt one, start with an understanding of the different breeds’ grooming requirements. If you don’t enjoy brushing dogs (for some breeds it’s a daily requirement) or if you can’t afford frequent visits to groomers, think twice about living with a dog with a high-maintenance coat.

For example, Poodles, Shih Tzus, and Afghan Hounds—and mixes with similar coat types—cost from $50 to $200 per grooming session. These dogs often need monthly appointments. Similarly, breeds that are heavy shedders like Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, and German Shepherd Dogs can be expensive to groom when the seasons change. In contrast, short-haired and smooth-coated dogs typically cost $40 to $50 for basic grooming.

How to Reduce Grooming Costs

If you have a puppy or adult dog who isn’t used to professional grooming, start with short training sessions that will help him relax and enjoy the experience. Do this with short, gentle, reward-filled brushing sessions, massage your pup’s paws daily, gently touch his face and head with the back of a spoon or spoon handle (this will help him relax around scissors), set your phone to vibrate and simulate the vibration of clippers, and encourage him to stand still for bathing and brushing.

Ask for meet-and-greet introductions to any groomer you’d like to try. In a few minutes, an experienced groomer can recommend grooming options, explain their fees, answer your questions, and help your dog feel comfortable in the salon.

Your groomer can recommend combs or brushes to use at home, how often to brush your dog, how often to bathe and with what products, and other suggestions for routine maintenance.

If your dog’s coat has tangles and mats, bathing may worsen them and trap moisture on the skin, potentially causing more problems. There is no simple way to remove mats and tangles without shaving the dog, though in some cases they can be picked apart. A professional groomer will know what approach to take.

Why Is Dog Grooming So Expensive?

Dog grooming most closely resembles human hair styling. If you have a favorite hair stylist or barber, you’re likely to schedule regular appointments, tip well, and develop a personal relationship. You respect your stylist’s training, experience, equipment, and efficiency. As groomer Lara Fasekas explains, “Dog grooming can cost more than a human haircut because there’s so much involved. It’s also more physically demanding because groomers have to lift and position dogs of all sizes. Dog grooming equipment has come a long way with the help of innovations that cost money, like belly straps that fasten to the groomer’s wall to keep dogs closer and help them feel safer. Quality scissors and clippers are serious investments, costing hundreds of dollars. In addition, there is a nationwide shortage of experienced groomers, and all of this adds to the cost of grooming.”

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