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Dog Owner’s Guide to Types of Ticks

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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There are many types of ticks that can bite dogs, and spread diseases.
Depending on its species and how recently they’ve fed, ticks can range from the size of a poppy seed to that of a small grape. Credit: Bernard Lynch | Getty Images

Nine tick species make their homes in various regions of North America. Besides being squicky to think about or, worse, encounter on your dog or yourself, some of the blood-sipping parasites—members of the arachnid family—can spread serious diseases to dogs and humans alike, including Lyme, Rocky Mountain spotted fever (which is not limited to the Rocky Mountains), anaplasmosis and more. That’s the best reason to know which types of ticks are out there, where they live, how to identify them, ways to protect yourself and your pets from them, and what to do if you find a tick on your dog.

Types of Ticks Dogs Get

Depending on where you live, these are the tick species you can encounter in North America:

Tick populations are constantly on the move, finding new territory by way of migrating wildlife, traveling pets, and improved habitat resulting from climate change. Here’s what to know about the various species.

American dog ticks, sometimes called Eastern wood ticks, are found in the eastern United States as well as the Pacific Northwest and certain areas of Canada and Mexico. Grassy fields and trails are their habitat. They feed on dogs and humans and their bite can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, tularemia and canine tick paralysis. American dog ticks are brown to reddish-brown with gray or silver markings on their back.

Invasive Asian longhorned ticks reported throughout most mid-Atlantic states, are generalists that feed on livestock, dogs, deer, and other animals. While they can be found anywhere, they appear to prefer tall grasses and wooded areas. They aren’t known to transmit Lyme disease but have been shown experimentally to transmit the emerging Powassan and Heartland viruses. Severe infestations can result in fatal blood loss. Their appearance varies by feeding status. Asian longhorned ticks that haven’t fed are a light reddish-tan to dark reddish with brown. Adult females that have fed appear gray-green with yellowish markings and can be the size of a pea. Males are rare because these ticks can reproduce without them.

Black-legged ticks, commonly known as deer ticks, are found in the eastern U.S. and Midwest, as far north as southeastern Canada and as far south as northeastern Mexico. They can spread Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, and anaplasmosis to dogs and humans. Deer ticks favor forested habitat with low bushes and shrubs from which they can launch themselves onto their blood-filled feeding stations. They are reddish-brown with a black marking resembling a shield on their back and are about the size of a sesame seed.

Brown dog ticks are global. In the U.S., no state is free of them, including Alaska and Hawaii. Brown dog ticks can live indoors and outdoors, in urban and rural areas, and dogs are their preferred hosts. They not only spread deadly Rocky Mountain spotted fever, but also ehrlichiosis and canine babesiosis. Around the world, they show resistance to acaricides, products that kill ticks. Habitat management and pesticides help to keep them under control. As the name implies, they are brown with few distinguishing features.

Gulf Coast ticks live along the Gulf Coast and up into the Atlantic coast. They spread an emerging disease in dogs called American canine hepatozoonosis (as opposed to Old World hepatozoonosis), first identified in the U.S. in 1978 on the Texas Gulf Coast. Since then, the disease has been diagnosed in dogs in Alabama, Georgia, Florida, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Tennessee. Gulf Coast ticks live in grass prairies and coastal uplands.

Female lone star ticks can be identified by the bright white spot on their back, or scutum. They inhabit the southern and eastern U. S., hiding in leaves and mulch and rushing out when they sense potential hosts. Not-so-fun fact: They are the fastest and most aggressive tick species when it comes to latching onto a host. Lone star ticks spread a number of diseases, including tularemia and ehrlichiosis to dogs and humans, and Heartland virus, Southern tick-associated rash illness, and Bourbon virus in humans. Their bite may also lead to a meat allergy called alpha-gal syndrome.

Rocky Mountain wood ticks, found primarily in Rocky Mountain and Western states, northern Plains states such as North and South Dakota, and southwestern Canada, prefer shrublands, lightly wooded areas, grasslands and trails, generally at subalpine elevations. They can transmit RMSF and tularemia to dogs and humans (and cats) and Colorado tick fever virus to humans. In some instances, their saliva contains a neurotoxin that can cause tick paralysis in dogs and humans. Rocky Mountain wood ticks have a red body shaped like a tear drop. Females have a white, shield-like marking at the top of the body, while males have gray and white spots.

Spinose ear ticks, a type of soft tick, range in color from gray to light brown. They are found throughout North America, including Mexico and western Canada. The good thing about them is that they don’t spread any diseases. The bad? They’re ticks. Wounds caused by their bite can develop secondary microbial infections or maggot infestations in severe cases.

Western black-legged ticks are West Coast cousins to black-legged ticks, living in forested areas all along the Pacific coast. Like their eastern cousins, they are vectors for Lyme disease, feeding on infected host animals and then transmitting disease to other animals, including dogs and humans, in subsequent blood meals. They are oval-shaped with a brownish-black body and black legs. Although you wouldn’t want to examine one closely enough to find out, females have an orange abdomen.

Ticks and the Diseases They Spread to Dogs

Tickborne-disease diagnoses have risen steadily over the past two decades. More ticks in more places mean more close encounters with ticks by dogs and humans.

Most tickborne diseases are transmitted through saliva to the unwitting and unwilling host: your dog or yourself. If ticks have fed on an infected animal, the saliva they inject through a bite of the next host contains disease-bearing pathogens. Dogs don’t directly spread tickborne diseases to humans, but they can bring ticks into homes, putting their people at risk of tick bites as well.

For instance, Lyme disease begins with infected deer ticks on dogs. Approximately 50 percent of deer ticks are carriers of this potentially devastating disease and the ticks are difficult to find because of their small size. Fortunately, they must be attached to the host for nearly two days or slightly longer before infection occurs, so if they’re removed in a timely manner, disease risk is limited.

You may have heard that dogs don’t get Lyme disease, but that’s a misconception. Many dogs are asymptomatic or have only subtle signs, but they can become infected and some do exhibit serious signs that come on quickly: lameness from painful joints, depression, weakness, reluctance to move, enlarged lymph nodes and fever. Chronic cases can result in persistent polyarthritis, acute progressive renal failure, and—although they are not conclusively linked to Lyme borreliosis—neurological signs such as changes in behavior: think sudden or unusual depression, fear, or aggression. If your dog has experienced a tick bite and shows these signs, talk to your veterinarian about running a tick panel and instituting aggressive antibiotic treatment right away.

Lyme disease isn’t always easy to diagnose in dogs or humans. It’s a disease of exclusion, so your veterinarian may want to rule out orthopedic disorders or other potential infectious causes.

For instance, Anaplasma phagocytophilum, transmitted mainly by black-legged ticks, can cause clinical signs resembling those of canine Lyme. Anaplasma is seen most commonly in California and in the northeast United States. Signs include lameness, diarrhea, vomiting and fever. Another member of the rickettsia family, Anaplasma platys, causes infectious cyclic thrombocytopenia in dogs, resulting in periodic platelet loss and problems with blood clotting.

Rocky Mountain spotted fever is delivered by the bite of a tick carrying Rickettsia rickettsii bacteria. Signs of infection include high fever, appetite loss, muscle and abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea, and a stiff gait. Besides the Rocky Mountain area, it has been diagnosed in areas east of the Mississippi, including New York, and can be deadly in both dogs and humans.

Ehrlichiosis is a group of bacterial diseases caused by the rickettsia Ehrlichia canis or other types of Ehrlichia. It’s usually transmitted by lone star ticks and brown dog ticks. Signs can be short-term or long-term and include fever, swollen lymph nodes, appetite loss, depression, stiffness, and coughing or difficulty breathing.

Babesiosis is a protozoal infection transmitted by blacklegged ticks, with transmission taking 48 to 72 hours. It invades red blood cells, triggering fever, anemia and weight loss. It is seen in the South and in California.

Signs of tick bite paralysis, caused by the bite of an American dog tick or Rocky Mountain wood tick, include weakness, fever, a change in the dog’s voice, vomiting, dilated pupils, and incoordination. Removal of the offending tick usually brings relief.

American canine hepatozoonosis is unusual in that transmission occurs not through the bite of a tick, but when a dog ingests either an infected tick or an infected intermediate host such as a rabbit. The disease is lifelong, with signs including fever, depression, weight loss, muscle atrophy, soreness and weakness. Many dogs die within two years of diagnosis.

Finding and Removing Ticks on Dogs

Any time your dog has been outdoors in wooded areas or tall grass, a tick check is in order before you let them enter the house. Start with the head, face, neck, and inside of the ears. Look between the toes, at the junctures of legs and belly, and at the tail. Run your fingers through the coat in search of any bumps that aren’t normally there. Part the fur so you can see down to the skin.

Once you overcome the ick factor, here’s how to remove a tick. Put on latex gloves to protect your skin in case the tick bursts, grasp the tick with tweezers, as close to the skin as possible, and pull back with steady, even pressure. The goal is to remove the entire tick, including the head, in one go.

Kill the tick by dropping it in alcohol—no crushing or flushing. Crushing the tick can expose you to disease, and flushing isn’t good because ticks have air sacs that help them to survive in water. Then disinfect the bite area (and the tweezers) with soap and water or rubbing alcohol.

Don’t use the end of a burnt match or lit cigarette or try to smother the tick with petroleum jelly or nail polish. These old-timey techniques can hurt your dog, increase the amount of time the tick is attached, and cause the tick to release more bacteria or protozoa into the bite site—both of which increase the risk of disease transmission.

Keep Ticks at Bay

  • Create a tick-unfriendly yard by keeping lawns short, lining the perimeter of your yard with wood chips or gravel, removing leaf litter and other brush that can shelter ticks in winter, and planting lavender, garlic, and chrysanthemums, which are natural tick repellents.
  • Consider protective clothing for your dog—and yourself. Vests, t-shirts, and other items treated with dog-safe insect repellent can help keep ticks off your dog, or you can have them wear a onesie or similar item to reduce the amount of skin exposed to ticks. For yourself, wear shirts with long sleeves and socks pulled over pants legs. (And don’t lean against trees—ask me why.)
  • If you live or hike in areas where ticks are common, consider putting your dog on a preventive product. Tick preventives come in oral or topical form, as well as a collar that lasts for eight months. Depending on the product, it may repel ticks, kill on contact, or kill ticks if they bite a dog. Just because a tick is on your dog doesn’t mean the preventive product isn’t working. If you have any questions about which products might work best for your dog and the area where you live, check with your vet.

Acute Renal Failure in Dogs: Causes, Diagnosis, and Treatment

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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Renal failure in dogs can be caused by multiple conditions and requires immediate intervention.
: Acute renal failure in dogs calls for emergency veterinary care and often requires hospitalization. Credit: Sebastian Condrea | Getty Images

Acute renal failure—better known as acute kidney injury—is a condition that has a sudden onset and can make your dog feel extremely ill. Symptoms of acute kidney injury include lethargy, not eating, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Most dogs will experience a sudden increase in thirst and urination. This may progress into drinking little to no water and hardly urinating.

There are several other diseases that share symptoms with acute kidney injury. Your dog should be evaluated by your veterinarian immediately if he is showing the symptoms mentioned above. If your veterinarian is unable to see your dog immediately, take him to the closest emergency veterinary hospital for evaluation.

Causes of Acute Kidney Injury in Dogs

There are many causes of acute kidney injury. These can include infections, toxins, certain medications, obstruction of the urinary system, and diseases that cause severe inflammation of the body.

Infectious causes include pyelonephritis and leptospirosis. Pyelonephritis is also known as a kidney infection. Pyelonephritis typically starts as a bladder infection. Bacteria in the bladder can ascend to the kidneys via the ureters (the tubes that connect the kidneys to the bladder) and cause a kidney infection.

Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection caused by the bacteria Leptospira. Leptospirosis can infect many organs in a dog’s body, including the kidneys, liver, heart, and lungs. See the article “Leptospirosis in Dogs” for more information about leptospirosis.

Toxins that can cause acute kidney injury in dogs include tartaric acid and ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is found in automotive antifreeze. Tartaric acid is found in grapes, raisins, Zante currants, and tamarind. Zante currants are also known as Corinthian raisins. Currants in the Ribes genus—such as blackcurrant, redcurrant, white currants, and European gooseberries—do not contain tartaric acid and are not considered toxic to dogs.

Ingesting an overdose of cholecalciferol (also known as vitamin D3) can cause acute kidney injury in dogs. Dogs can overdose on cholecalciferol by ingesting vitamin D3 supplements, their owner’s medicated skin creams that contain vitamin D3, or rodenticide (mouse poison) that contains cholecalciferol.

Certain medications have been associated with an increased risk of developing acute kidney injury in dogs. These medications include antibiotics in the aminoglycoside drug class, such as gentamicin and amikacin. The antifungal drug amphotericin B is also known to cause acute kidney injury in dogs.

Other drugs that can cause acute kidney injury are the chemotherapy drug cisplatin and radiographic contrast agents used for imaging with CT and MRI. An overdose of a prescribed non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID)—such as carprofen or deracoxib—or ingestion of an NSAID made for humans—such as ibuprofen or acetaminophen—can cause acute kidney injury in dogs.

Acute kidney injury can also be caused by an obstruction of the urinary system. A urinary obstruction is one that either blocks a dog’s ability to urinate (urethral obstruction) or a kidney’s ability to empty urine into the bladder (ureteral obstruction). A urethral obstruction can be caused by one or more bladder stones, a tumor of the bladder or urethra, or an enlarged prostate. A ureteral obstruction can be caused by a kidney stone or a tumor of the ureter.

Dogs experiencing an illness that causes a severe inflammatory reaction in the body may develop acute kidney injury. Conditions such as sepsis, pancreatitis, and acute shock release inflammatory mediators that can damage the kidneys.

Diagnosis of Acute Kidney Injury in Dogs

If your dog was observed ingesting a known renal toxin, your veterinarian may request that you contact an animal poison control helpline (such as ASPCA Poison Control or Pet Poison Helpline) to determine if the amount of toxin ingested puts him at risk for acute kidney injury. Your veterinarian and the toxicology consultant with poison control will recommend diagnostics and treatments based on the type of toxin and how much of it your dog ingested.

For other potential causes of acute kidney injury, your veterinarian will want to complete blood work (including a complete blood count and chemistry panel) and a urinalysis. A urine culture and sensitivity will be recommended if your veterinarian suspects your dog may have pyelonephritis. Testing for leptospirosis may also be recommended.

Abdominal radiographs (x-rays) may be recommended to look for stones in your dog’s urinary system. An abdominal ultrasound may be recommended to examine the architecture of your dog’s kidneys to help determine the cause of acute kidney injury.

Treatment for Dogs Suffering from Acute Kidney Injury

Dogs with acute kidney injury should ideally be hospitalized. Treatment includes administration of intravenous fluids and medications to address nausea, vomiting, and pain. Antibiotics may be administered if an infectious cause of acute kidney injury is suspected.

Your dog’s urine output will be closely monitored and compared to the amount of fluids being administered intravenously. This helps determine how well the kidneys are responding to treatment.

Dogs that are in the advanced stage of acute kidney injury may benefit from renal hemodialysis. Hemodialysis removes waste products from the blood that are normally removed by healthy kidneys. Multiple sessions of hemodialysis will be required until the kidneys have recovered and can begin filtering out waste products on their own.

Acute kidney injury that has been caused by an NSAID overdose may respond to two different treatments, either used singly or in combination. The first treatment is called therapeutic plasma exchange (TPE). NSAIDs bind to proteins found in plasma (the liquid portion of blood). TPE involves separating plasma from the red blood cells and replacing it with plasma from a canine donor along with intravenous fluids.

The second treatment that can help eliminate a toxic dose of an NSAID from the body is intralipid emulsion (ILE) therapy. ILE involves the intravenous administration of a fat emulsion solution. The NSAID molecules are drawn to the emulsion and bind to it, facilitating its removal from the body.

Hemodialysis and TPE are only available at certain specialty and veterinary teaching hospitals. ILE therapy is more widely available at many specialty and emergency hospitals.

Prognosis for Dogs Diagnosed with Acute Kidney Injury

The prognosis for a dog experiencing acute kidney injury depends on the cause and the severity of laboratory abnormalities. Dogs with acute kidney injury caused by leptospirosis typically have a good prognosis with treatment. Acute kidney injury caused by ethylene glycol carries a poor prognosis.

Dogs that have severe elevation of their kidney values, severely low calcium, and high phosphorus, anemia, and decreased urine production have a guarded prognosis for recovery. Dogs that do not improve or worsen with hospitalization and intravenous fluid therapy have a poor prognosis.

Dogs that respond to therapy may make a full recovery and not suffer any long-term effects of their illness. Some dogs may experience short-term damage to their kidneys that takes several weeks to months to resolve. Other dogs may have some level of chronic kidney disease for the remainder of their lives following recovery from acute kidney injury.

How to Keep Dogs Off the Couch

By
Laura Vinogradov
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Keeping dogs off the sofa and other furniture is a training exercise.
The choice of a dog on the furniture or not is personal, but enforcing the decision must be consistent. Credit: Svetikd | Getty Images

For many people, a dog on the furniture is taboo, an unacceptable behavior. Others may be wishy-washy in their choice, which is unfair to the dog. Once the dog becomes used to getting on the couch or bed, it becomes a learned behavior. Fortunately, any learned behavior can be unlearned if everyone in the household consistently enforces the new rules.

 

 

When you’re making the decision on whether to allow your dog on or off furniture, be aware that one big consideration is ensure that your dog has his own spot. This might be an extra special comfy dog bed or blanket in the room where you’re spending most of your time. Some folks designate one piece of furniture as the dog’s place to keep her off other pieces of furniture, which is fine if you’re consistent. Reward your dog for seeking out the right spot to rest.

How to Keep Dogs Off The Furniture

If your dog has never climbed onto the furniture, don’t encourage it. Instead, reward her with a yummy treat for seeking out her own spot.

If your dog already climbs on the furniture, you will need to re-educate her. Again, start by consistently not allowing her to climb on the furniture. You might be able to do this by blocking her access to the furniture, whether you use pillows or piles of blankets the dog can’t possibly crawl up or a barrier like a baby gate (more on this below). Never use aggressive actions like trying to pull her off the furniture or using noisemakers to scare her off. These actions are not positive training techniques.

If you’re in another room or not at home, and your dog is free in the house instead of in a crate, you will need to use a blockade method:

  • Close bedroom doors and block off access to rooms where the temptation is greatest.
  • Strategically place boxes or turn the couch cushions to physically block access.
  • Consider using room barriers like baby gates. They are convenient, easy to install, and designed to not damage furniture.

Keep in mind, though, where there’s a will there’s a way and many dogs figure out ways to jump over, climb up, dig under, or push aside barriers. Choose your barriers with that in mind. Be certain they’re safe but be prepared to switch them out periodically.

Stick with the Rules

The best way to teach your dog to stay off furniture is to never let your dog on the furniture in the first place. This is especially important when adopting a new dog. If you allow your dog on the furniture (even once!), your dog considers this permission and it becomes a learned behavior, as we stated above. While the behavior can be changed, it’s not easy. Everyone in the household must consistently enforce the rules.

Note for those considering a puppy and haven’t decided about the furniture rule, consider this: That cute little puppy you snuggled with that took up a quarter of your pillow will soon grow up and may take up more of the bed than you, or your spouse, may be willing to give up. And dirty paws aren’t always caught at the door. And then there is the fur. Don’t start a habit you’re eventually going to want to break.

Introducing a New Dog to a Jealous Dog

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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Introducing a new dog to a jealous dog can be a challenge, but it isn't insurmountable.
It’s not difficult to tell that this little guy does not want to share his person with anybody or anything. A proper introduction that includes a proper, slow introduction and, above all, fairness may avert bigger problems. Molly Wolff Photography | Getty Images

Without question, dogs get jealous, and it’s especially apparent if you’re giving attention to a different canine. Studies have proven dogs have this emotion. If you have a jealous dog, don’t despair. You can get another dog, but you need to understand the roots of jealousy.

Solving the problem starts with recognizing the signs of jealousy, which means being able to read dog body language. One of the most useful books on the market is “Doggie Language: A Dog Lover’s Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend” by Lili Chin. This inexpensive book says a lot with few words and many great illustrations.

Possible signs of jealousy when another dog approaches you and your dog or vice versa include:

  • Physically nudging a dog out of the way.
  • Showing various degrees of aggression, such as facial expressions mean to warn, growling, even snapping at the other dog.
  • Whining or anxious behavior that can include pacing.
  • Attention seeking behavior such as offering you a toy, paw, etc., sometimes seeming frantic.
  • Crowding or physically blocking access to you.
  • Resource guarding (any degree of) their possessions/areas such as beds, toys, meal areas, etc.
  • Even potty accidents related to a timeline of having another dog near you can imply jealousy.

Jealousy is normal. Dogs get jealous because you are a resource and the source of all good things in your dog’s life. It’s naturally ingrained in a dog to not want to share, and your dog may act aggressive. This also has been seen when a new baby arrives home! Your dog doesn’t want to share the attention.

But, with dogs, if your dog already truly likes other dogs and enjoys their company, it’s not a difficult proposition to introduce the concept of sharing you to that dog.

Note: Reactive dogs are different from jealous dogs. Introducing reactive dogs is a carefully choreographed dance that takes many things into consideration and may require the help of a professional trainer. Reactivity is an overreaction versus a normal range of emotions.

Tips for Success With Jealousy

I like to take things as slowly as possible. If you are adopting a dog from a rescue or shelter, it’s imperative that there be a meet-and-greet first. Ideally, the rescue or shelter staff will be savvy enough with dog-play behavior so that they can start you off on the right path. It’s helpful for you to know what style of play your dog enjoys best with other dogs so that they can choose the best possible match. The same savviness should apply to a breeder with an adult dog and even a puppy. But be aware that adding a puppy can be much more work than with an adult dog as puppies are a lot of work in of themselves, let alone when creating a new relationship.

It’s best if you can have several meet-and-greets in advance of bringing the new dog home. Mutual walks are a great way to help create a bond with shared activity. Show some attention to each dog and make sure that you verbally reinforce your current dog for accepting your attention to the other dog. Your dog may show jealousy when you pet the new dog. Make it clear with your body language that you can pet both at the same time equally. You do have two hands!

Once you decide that things look promising and set a date to bring your new addition home, plan on spending a few days off from distractions to develop the foundation. It’s important that each dog has their own things and their own space for meals, sleeping, toys, etc. Be fair. Have a few pairs of identical toys for each that you introduce carefully. Active supervision is key. I start with each wearing a drag leash so that you can intervene quickly if necessary.

Open Space and Fairness

If the weather is amenable to such, starting the calm togetherness training outside is often better, with the space being more open, even if your porch or yard isn’t large.  The illusion of space is helpful. Another human helper is great but if that’s not an option, I have certainly done this on my own with multiple dogs in the household. You can too. Start with some shared training exercises so that impulse control around treats can move forward on the right path. Take turns with who you treat first and be obviously fair. In case you question the logic here, this is also based on science. A 2009 study published in the Proceedings of the National Academies of Science in the United States of America showed dogs notice and understand fairness.

The next step can include relaxing together with the human seated. If you have seating on your porch or in your yard that makes sense to use, you can start there. Otherwise, choose the room in your home with the most open seating plan. Move a coffee table if need be. The human part of the equation must learn to use their own body language to help shape where each dog should safely be. This is an exercise in learning to be an effective parent who is kind but puts boundaries in place for the safety of everyone. I think it’s helpful to establish the boundaries right away for quiet time when each dog will probably want to cozy up to you.

For example, if your dog is starting to nudge the other dog aside during this practice, you can subtly use an arm or a leg to define the boundaries and show that both can get attention at the same time in a fair manner. Pet both dogs while softly verbally reinforcing your resident dog when she accepts that they can both share you.  The sooner that you establish what is and isn’t acceptable in the realm of stretching boundaries, the smoother this forward path will go.

Overboard Jealousy

The steps in this article are for dogs who exhibit tendencies on the lower end of the jealousy scale. If your dog resource guards anything/anyone in such a way that you are concerned about a battle and bloodshed, then you should find a well-qualified rewards-based trainer/behavior consultant to help you move forward with this scenario. Knowing how to introduce a new dog properly at the get go sets your life with said dogs up for success rather than failure. You won’t regret a moment of time spent moving at the right speed.

How To Pick the Best Animal Charities to Donate To

By
Mary Schwager
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Finding the best animal charity requires doing some research to find one whose cause you fully support.
Doing some research before donating to an animal charity will help ensure your money makes a difference for dogs in need. Credit: Liudmila Chernetska | Getty Images

You’re scrolling through your social media feed, and a heartbreaking video of a trembling, filthy, emaciated dog with the saddest, haunting eyes stops you in your tracks. The post says, “Bella needs medical help. Please donate to our rescue…” But you’ve never heard of the organization.

What do you do? How do you know the group is a legitimate nonprofit? And that Bella will get the care she needs?

“Paws-ing” for a moment, understanding how the system works, and doing a few minutes of research before you donate to dog charities can pay off.

Donating to Dog Charities

Thousands of animal-related nonprofit organizations are vying for donations, and experts say animal lovers are ready to assist.

“We find donors are highly invested and very interested in how they can support the animal welfare space; it’s one of our most searched areas,” says Jennifer Prelack, the director of charity curation at Charity Navigator, which researches, reviews, and rates nonprofits.

When it comes to the companion animal space, there’s a range of dog charities that need support.

From small, all-volunteer nonprofits that save dogs and find them new homes—to large charities with hundreds of employees that push for tougher puppy mill, backyard breeder, and animal abuse laws.

There are also nonprofit animal shelters, charities that provide spay and neuter surgeries, and foundations that help pay dogs’ veterinary bills.

“Many people see animals as a very vulnerable group,” Prelack says. “I think that’s why it feels so good to contribute, wanting to help crosses all people, all groups, and all viewpoints.”

Finding the Best Animal Charities

With such a vast array of nonprofit groups all rallying for seemingly good causes, how do you decide where to donate?

Look for organizations that advocate for issues that are important or even personal to you.

Perhaps you adopted your beloved pup from a rescue that saves dogs from high-kill shelters and want to give back. Or you know your local animal sanctuary is overwhelmed. Maybe you want to help Bella, the dog on your social media feed.

Once you’ve identified a dog charity you feel pulls on your heartstrings, head to their website and read the mission statement or “about us” section.

Does their cause align with your personal beliefs and a purpose you want to support?

If you feel like there’s a connection, it’s time to put on your pet detective hat and find out more about the group. “We say give with heart but use your head,” Prelack says.

These days, there’s a wealth of information about charities online.

How to Check Out a Charity

Stay on the group’s website and see what information you can dig up.

Check Out a Charity’s Website

Look for how the nonprofit showcases its impact.

  • What programs do they offer?
  • Do they show examples of their work?
  • Do they have an online annual report listing their accomplishments?
  • Do they say where their donations go?
  • Do they have statistics such as the number of dogs saved?

“We’re finding a lot of donors are increasingly valuing data-driven results and organizations that have measurable outcomes,” Prelack says.

Check Out a Charity’s Tax Return

Finding an organization’s tax return (Form 990) on its website can give you a lot of information and help you ensure a group is an official 501(c)(3) nonprofit. You can also ask the charity to send you a copy.

If the form isn’t on the nonprofit’s website, or you have trouble getting it, you can likely find it on the IRS website or on the websites of groups that review nonprofits, like Charity Navigator, Guidestar, CharityWatch, and ProPublica.

These charity watchdog websites have experts and number crunchers who interpret the tax forms for you. Each organization has different criteria for evaluating nonprofits and following the money trail.

One nonprofit might have an excellent rating on one site and a failing grade on another.

“There are about 1.8 million nonprofits in the U.S., and donors are looking for guidance; they’re looking for some understanding,” Prelack says. “We want them to be able to confirm if an organization is reputable and is effectively achieving its mission.”

Here are some key factors to review on a group’s Form 990:

  • How much are the executives and employees making?
  • What is the charity spending their money on?
  • How much of their total income goes to the cause?
  • Is most of the money going to the dogs?

If you’re reviewing a large animal rescue’s tax return, does a majority of their money pay for boarding, medical care, supplies, food, and vaccines that benefit the dogs? Or do most of the donations go to someone’s paycheck or paychecks?

Try Different Google Searches

Google the nonprofit’s name and see what you find. It seems like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at what might pop up. Sometimes, you’ll see the good, the bad, and the ugly. The organization may have been honored with awards, covered positively in the news, or is recovering from a scandal.

Then, Google the group’s name with quotation marks around it (e.g., “Doggy Dog Rescue”). This tells the search engine to only look for the nonprofit’s exact name and weed out other entries.

While you’re Googling, try one more search. Type the charity’s name with the word: complaints (e.g., Doggy Dog Rescue complaints). This keyword helps narrow your query even more. You can see if people are griping about the organization or if the group has ever been in trouble.

Check Out a Group’s Social Media Pages

A group’s social media pages can reveal some essential information.

  • Is the group posting achievements and compelling cases?
  • Do you see before and after pictures of dogs the group saved?
  • Do the posts seem coherent, spelled correctly, and thoughtful?
  • What are people saying in the comments section of posts?
  • What is the group’s rating? (If the social media site has that feature)
  • What do the complaints and compliments say?

Of course, some comments or complaints may be exaggerated or unfounded, but also see how a group responds to complaints. Are they respectful and can you see their side of the situation?

Watch Out for Scams

Sadly, scammers are out there trying to take advantage of your goodwill.

Watch for some common pitfalls, warning signs, and red flags.

Email Precautions

If you get an email from a charity, even if it’s one you’ve donated to in the past, read it carefully. Does it sound legit? Are words spelled right? Are sentences properly structured?

What is the sender’s actual email address? It might say “Doggy Dog Rescue” in the name field, but if you look at the exact email address, is it clearly from the organization? Or is the email address weird? Like a bunch of letters, numbers, or something odd?

Those are all red flags.

Be careful about clicking on any links in the email, especially if it seems suspicious. If you want to donate, go directly to the charity’s website.

Text and Phone Precautions

If you get a call from someone who says they’re with a charity that needs your support, hold the phone.

Should you want to listen to what they say, ask them to clearly identify which charity they’re with and how you can donate.

If the caller’s plea is overly emotional, feels like high-pressure sales, and “they need you to act now,” that’s a red flag.

Be cautious about giving credit numbers over the phone. Never pay anyone who asks you to send donations via gift cards, pay cards, or wire transfers. Instead, ask the caller for the nonprofit’s website and follow all the steps above to check out the charity.

If you receive a text, be wary of clicking on links, texting back, or giving personal information.

Check Mailing Precautions

Unfortunately, even mailing a check these days comes with risks.

Record numbers of criminals are swiping checks from the mail, even robbing carriers and stealing their mail.

The thieves often use chemicals or heavy-duty erasers to “wash” checks. They may change your $500 check to a $5000 check, make it payable to someone else, and cash it. This could clean out your bank account, and getting the money refunded can be a mess.

If you want to donate by check, take precautions:

  • Put the check in an envelope you can’t see through.
  • Bring the envelope inside the post office to mail.
  • Don’t put the envelope in your mailbox with the flag up.
  • Use permanent, gel-based ink to write the check so it’s difficult to alter.

The American Bankers Association has more tips on how to prevent check fraud.

Contact a Nonprofit

If you need help finding more information about a charity, contact the organization. Their response, enthusiasm, and willingness to answer your questions may determine whether you want to donate.

If you can’t donate but want to provide help for animals, shelters and rescue groups need volunteers and fosters. Right now, a record number of dogs are in dire need of assistance.

“There are so many organizations that are working really hard to do the work they’re doing,” Prelack says. “Donating is critical and a great way to support an organization you care about, but volunteering is also an excellent way to give back.”

Can Dogs Get Poison Ivy?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dogs can get poison ivy, and it is a hazard to be avoided on woodland walks.
Poison ivy likes dense wooded areas, but it can also be found in other areas, including fields. It is usually a vine, but some types of adapted and can grow close to the ground, so your dog may tromp right through it without you realizing it.

Poison ivy can affect our dogs, but it is not nearly as common as human exposures. The toxic component of this plant is urushiol. This is a clear liquid, and if skin is exposed a very itchy rash follows soon after.

Luckily most dogs have enough hair that the sap usually does not get down to skin. However, hairless breeds, dogs with basically bare groins, and dogs with any skin condition that leaves them with exposed bare skin are all susceptible to the rash.

What to Do for Poison Ivy on a Dog

If your dog is exposed to poison ivy, poison oak, or poison sumac, and you are aware of the exposure, the best bet is to do a quick bath. Colloidal oatmeal shampoo is recommended by the Pet Poison Helpline to minimize risk of rash and pruritus (itching) developing.

Dog Spreads Poison Ivy to Person

It is more common for you to get a case of poison ivy from your dog. If your dog runs through or rolls in a patch of poison ivy, the oils on the outer hair can transfer over to you if you pet or hug your dog. If you have hiked through an area known for poison ivy, wipe your dog off with a towel or baby wipes. Wearing gloves while doing so is not a bad idea, especially if you are sensitive to poison ivy reactions.

My Dog Ate Poison Ivy

If your dog is silly enough to chew on or eat poison ivy, he may get some gastrointestinal irritation leading to vomiting or diarrhea. Usually, these signs are mild and pass without a need for veterinary care. It is not recommended to induce vomiting, as that may simply cause more exposure to urushiol on sensitive tissues. Note: Many plants can be poisonous to your dog, so don’t let them chew on something you don’t recognize.

Precautions to Take

Many hiking sites post warnings if poison ivy is common along the paths. Poison ivy seems to thrive along beaches, so be careful walking through dunes. Stick to boardwalks where you can. Check websites ahead of time and look for notices at parking areas.

If you are clearing a patch of poison ivy from your yard or off trees, keep your dog away. The oils can stay active even after the plant is dead. In addition, do not burn poison ivy in a leaf or brush pile. The urushiol is in the smoke. Inhaling it can irritate airways and lungs.

The same rules apply to poison oak and poison sumac.

Overall, it is best for your dog and you to simply avoid poison ivy. Learn to recognize the plant: The old saying, “Leaves of three, let it be” holds true.

During growing season, the leaves will be a bright green. In the fall, they turn a pretty red but can still cause a rash. The plants may grow along the ground, or “climb” up trees as a vine.

Check your yard for any poison ivy plants and remove them carefully while wearing gloves or contact a yard-care company. Dispose of plants carefully. This is a perennial, so you need to get down to roots for complete removal. Spraying with a mix of vinegar, salt, and dishwashing liquid. The North Carolina Department Cooperative Extension has suggestions for environmentally friendly ways to kill unwanted vegetation like poison ivy.

Grateful for Dogs on This and Every Thanksgiving

By
Nancy Kerns
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Three adorable dogs on a Thanksgiving Hike.
Woody, Boone, and foster Maeve, the dogs sharing a Thanksgiving Day hike and meal with WDJ Editor-in-Chief Nancy Kerns this year.

It goes without saying that on a holiday devoted to gratitude, that I am grateful for my dogs. While they are occasionally a source of concern (both of them being prone to minor but mysterious and undiagnoseable maladies), they are daily a source of amusement and affection, companionship and comfort. They help me professionally, as models for WDJ, test subjects for product reviews and training techniques, and as helper dogs in training classes. And perhaps most importantly, they make me get outdoors to walk—a cure for most bad moods, depression, lethargy, or headaches, and a huge component of my mental health maintenance program.

While my own dogs have been a lifelong source of love and learning, so has all of dogdom. The free-roaming dogs of the rural area where I spent my childhood were as friendly and familiar to me as the kids I rode the bus with—that is to say, some nice and some who were best avoided! From those rural roots I learned about the respect that a well-trained dog can inspire from watching our rancher friend’s Kelpies work cattle, and how dogs who are unguided and unsupervised usually come to tragic ends. Later, force-free dog training and behavior modification deeply informed how I parented my son—“catch them in the act of doing something right and reinforce!”—and I am immeasurably proud to see him carry on that sort of parenting.

I’m also grateful for the humans who have come into my life through dogs. Some of the most generous, compassionate, and selfless people I know, love, and admire are those who work to help dogs. This includes people who work with dogs professionally, such as shelter workers, trainers, veterinarians, and vet techs, but also people who volunteer as foster providers, transporters, trappers, fundraisers, and artists. And my best friends are all “dog people.” We may not know the names of each other’s partners, but we know everything about each other’s dogs, including their food allergies and titles obtained! And when our beloved dogs pass away, we share each other’s deep grief.

If you’re like me, you will take the opportunity on this Thanksgiving Day to show your gratitude to your dogs. Most of us will provide our dogs with a special meal on Thanksgiving—but it will be even more significant to them if you take them for a special walk to their favorite place, and let them sniff and explore at their pace (and you will feel better for having taken a walk, too!). But consider extending your gratitude for dogs in general by sending a donation to or volunteering to help needy dogs at your local shelter. The staff and dogs will be even more grateful.

High-Calorie Dog Food

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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High-calorie dog foods can support a dog with a very active lifestyle.
A high-energy, athletic dog often needs a food that is nutrient-dense, high-calorie food to maintain his weight. Credit: S5lztok | Getty Images

When it comes to keeping your dog healthy, active, and energized, the right diet plays a crucial role. For dogs with higher energy needs—active dogs, working dogs, athletes, puppies, nursing females, and dogs recovering from illness or surgery—finding a diet that is energy-dense is crucial. You need a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food that will help keep your dog performing at his or her best. But how do you decide? Read on.

What Is High-Calorie Dog Food?

High-calorie dog food is designed to provide more energy per serving, typically through higher levels of fat, protein, and sometimes digestible carbohydrates. This type of food is ideal for dogs with elevated energy needs, including working dogs, sport dogs, dogs with high metabolisms, and those who are highly active or undergoing intense training. The dog food bag will likely be labeled for these types of dogs. Active dogs, and those with high metabolisms or specific health concerns, burn through calories much faster than sedentary dogs.

High-calorie foods are designed to provide the necessary nutrients and energy required to fuel their lifestyles without overfeeding them. This ensures that dogs maintain their weight, muscle mass, and energy levels throughout the day. For active dogs, high-calorie food helps ensure they have the energy to keep their muscles and metabolism functioning efficiently, giving them stamina to perform throughout the day. Dogs recovering from medical conditions often need extra calories to support tissue repair, fuel the immune system, and regain strength, and promote healing.

How to Select The Best Dog Food

Fat is the most energy-dense nutrient at 9 calories per gram. On the other hand, protein and carbohydrates only 4 calories per gram. Because of its density, many high-calorie foods are formulated with a higher fat content, ranging from 15% to 30%, or higher, compared to standard dog food that typically ranges from 8% to 15% fat. The higher fat content provides a concentrated source of energy, allowing active dogs to get the fuel they need without needing to consume large quantities of food.

Read the Dog Food Ingredients List

When selecting the best high-calorie dog food for your active pup, consider:

  • The quality of ingredients
  • Digestibility of the food
  • Any health issues your dog may have

Look for high-quality protein sources of animal origin, such as chicken, beef, lamb, or fish. To maintain muscle mass, high-calorie diets should be high in complete proteins. High-calorie foods should also contain highly digestible ingredients to prevent gastrointestinal issues. And make transitions to your new food over a time of a week or so, plus, it’s wise to buy bags at a size you think your dog can finish within a month.

Calories Count

The calorie content of these foods typically ranges from 400 to 500 or more calories per cup. If your dog has specific health needs, such as joint issues, a sensitive stomach, or a history of heart disease, choose a formula that addresses those concerns in addition to providing high-calorie support.

High-calorie dog food is an excellent choice for active dogs who require more energy to maintain their vitality, muscle mass, and endurance. Whether you have a sporting dog, a working dog, or a high-energy puppy, a nutrient-dense, high-calorie food will help keep them performing at their best. Note: Please visit our website and use our searchable database of wet dog foods and dry dog foods to help narrow down the number of choices to what you’re looking to find for your dog. For example, if your dog can’t eat chicken, our database will bring up foods that don’t include chicken.

Ask Questions

If you’re not sure a food is right for your dog, such as maybe you’re worried about a certain ingredient that isn’t on the bag, send an email to the company’s customer service. Usually, if you ask a specific question, you’ll get a helpful answer. If you don’t, you may want to look at other foods. Most customer service representatives will request help from the company’s nutritionists when necessary, so you may not get an immediate response. Good companies want your business.

And, of course, as with any dietary change, always consult your veterinarian to ensure the diet is appropriate for your specific dog and their health conditions. With the right food, your dog will have all the energy they need to stay active, happy, and healthy.

Can Dogs Get Lice?

By
Dan Muse
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Dogs can get lice, and the way it is spread is from close contact with other dogs.
: Lice on a dog can be spread through direct contact with another dog, such as when playing. Credit: Red Stallion | Getty Images

Yes, dogs can get lice. While not as common as fleas, lice can find a home on your canine companion. Two distinct types of lice infest dogs, according to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, a nonprofit group focused on bringing awareness of the threat parasites present to pets and family members. Those lice are:

 

  1. Mallophaga: Biting, or chewing, lice that often leave cuts on your dog’s skin.
  2. Anoplura: Sucking lice feed on the dog’s blood. Their narrow heads are designed to pierce a dog’s skin.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, signs of a lice infestation in dogs include:

  • Excessive scratching and biting
  • Hair loss
  • Irritated skin
  • Visible lice or nits (lice eggs)

Lice on your dog can cause a potentially serious condition known as pediculosis, which involves terrible itching and scratching and potentially anemia, so don’t waste time. If you suspect your dog has lice, talk to your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Can Dogs Get Lice from Humans?

If your first question was, “Can dogs get lice?” your next questions are probably:

Can lice on my dog spread to me? No.

Can my dog get lice from people? No.

Can these pesky parasites make the leap back and forth from dog to human? No.

The good news is that the lice that affect dogs are species-specific. You don’t have to worry about catching lice from your dog, and your dog doesn’t have to worry about catching them from you.

“Parasite lice are highly ‘host-specific,’ which means that they typically live, feed, and reproduce on a single species of animal,” according to a report by Purdue University. “These lice very rarely transfer to a human, and they die within a few hours or so if they happen to get on our bodies. This is why pets and livestock that are infested with lice are not a source of louse infestation to infants, young children, and adults.”

The Stages of Canine Lice

The first stage of canine lice occurs when female lice glue their eggs, or nits, to the hairs of your dog, near the skin, Jennifer E. Thomas, DVM, Oklahoma State University, writes in the Merck Veterinary Manual. Unfortunately, ordinary shampooing and washing will not eliminate nits.

The warning signs of lice infestation are excessive scratching, biting, and rubbing. The dog’s coat may appear rough and dry, and in severe cases, hair can mat. Sucking lice can cause small wounds that may become infected.

The diagnosis of lice is typically made by visually identifying lice or their eggs in the fur, particularly when parting the hair. Chewing lice are more active and visible, while sucking lice move slower and often appear embedded in the skin.

However, it’s important to note that scratching from a severe lice infestation can sometimes lead to secondary skin infections. If your dog has a severe case of lice, it’s best to consult your veterinarian to prevent complications and to be sure it’s lice and not a different parasite.

How Lice Spread?

Lice can be transmitted in several ways: Direct contact, such as playing or grooming, is the most common way lice spread between dogs. Additionally, bedding, grooming tools, collars, or toys can become and transmit lice.  Thanks to the use of flea and tick preventives, pediculosis in dogs and cats has become rare in the United States and usually occurs on feral, stray, or animals in shelters that have poor sanitation. Dogs that are already compromised due to illness, malnutrition, or stress are more susceptible to lice infestations.

Preventing Lice Before They Infest Your Dog

Preventing lice infestations in dogs involves a few simple steps. Regular grooming, including brushing and bathing, helps detect infestations early. Maintaining a clean space for your dog is crucial. Avoid sharing grooming tools or bedding among dogs. Lastly, routine veterinary check-ups can help identify potential issues before they become severe.

When Is A Dog Considered a Senior?

By
Cindy Howle, M.Ed. NBCT
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When is a dog a senior dog. There are many signs inside and out.
A lot of factors that go into determining when exactly a dog reaches senior status, but there are some simple things dog owners can do to help an aging dog stay happy and healthy. Credit: Bread and Butter Productions | Getty Images

“There is not a ‘one size fits all’ schedule for senior status, as different-sized dogs age at different rates,” says Dr. Robin Downing, Hospital Director for the Downing Center for Animal Pain Management in Colorado. We know from biological markers that metabolic and structural changes occur as dogs age determining their senior status, she says. And size matters.

When Is My Dog a Senior?

Tiny dogs have a longer life expectancy while giant and large breeds are on the other end of the spectrum biologically, aging faster.

  • Small/tiny dogs are typically considered seniors around 10 to 11 years.
  • Medium-sized dogs usually reach senior status around 8 to 9 years.
  • Larger/giant breeds age faster and are usually considered seniors at around 6 to 7 years.

“One important consideration is a dog’s biologic age may or may not match their chronologic age,” says Downing, noting that the rate of aging depends on many factors including genetics and lifestyle. This, she says, gives pet owners a powerful opportunity to help their dogs achieve and maintain a lower biological age than chronological through preventive care.

A recent study using data from the Dog Aging Project found other factors affecting activity over time including the owner’s age, dog and owner characteristics, dog size, and the environment where they live.

Caring for a Senior Dog

When you are caring for an aging dog, there are some things you can do to improve or even extend her life. Helping a senior dog stay healthy can include:

  • Keeping your dog a healthy weight is the first line of defense. Your vet can help determine an optimal weight and body composition for your dog.
  • Making sure your dog sees a vet at least every six months. Early detection of any potential problems means early intervention, supporting a longer and better life.
  • Getting regular exercise. Exercise remains key for maintaining aging muscles and joints. “Move it or lose it.”
  • Providing mental enrichment. Seek out safe opportunities for mental and emotional engagement, such as learning new skills or tricks. For more on how to keep your older dog mentally engaged, see “The Importance of Mental Stimulation for Dogs.”
  • Don’t forget to socialize! Experiences like cafes and group walks are healthy activities for dogs who like that kind of thing. Honor your dog’s preferences regarding social time.
  • Providing regular dental care at home and professional periodontal therapy as needed. Periodontal disease is extremely common in older dogs and can lead to a number of other health problems.

Common Senior Dog Health Problems

Old age is not a disease, yet some health issues are more common in older dogs. Among them are:

  • Osteoarthritis (OA)
  • Chronic kidney disease
  • Congestive heart failure
  • Cancer: Have your vet investigate every lump.
  • Hearing and vision loss
  • Age-related cognitive dysfunction

When it comes to older dogs, less get-up-and-go stamina does not necessarily mean the dog is uncomfortable or in pain. However, a marked decrease in activity and mobility almost always indicates pain, according to Downing. Check out all mobility issues with your vet.

Senior Dog Nutrition

“There is no defined nutrient profile for a “Senior” life stage,” says veterinary nutritionist Dr. Julie Churchill. “This means pet foods labeled for “seniors” is a marketing term and not defined by anyone other than that specific company.”

The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) regulates and defines pet food industry standards for a “complete and balanced” diet for life stages of healthy dogs (growth and adult maintenance) or “all life stages.” It does not have a separate standard for senior dogs.

“It isn’t realistic to define a nutrient profile to meet all senior needs because as pets age, just like people, their calorie needs change,” says Dr. Churchill.  “An individualized vet-directed feeding plan is the best approach.”

When looking for the right food to feed your senior dog, consider the following:

  • Check the WSAVA Global Nutrition guidelines when choosing a “complete and balanced” diet. See also “How to Choose a Dog Food: Factors to Consider.”
  • Monitor protein intake. Dogs commonly need more protein as they age. Check with your vet or a canine nutritionist to see what they recommend for your dog.
  • Have fresh water available at all times and monitor your dog’s intake. No only is good hydration important to overall healthy, a sudden increase in thirst can signal illness. Consult your vet if you notice your dog is drinking more than usual.
  • Feed the correct amount for a lean body condition. A good starting point is WSAVA’s adult dog calorie ranges for an ideal body condition. However, you will need to pay attention to your dog’s weight and overall condition. Her needs may vary significantly from the average and will likely change as she ages.
  • To reduce caloric intake for weight management, seek a lower calorie, higher protein food.
  • Use meal toppers sparingly as overuse can create a nutritional imbalance.

When Is the Best Time to Start Feeding a Dog a Senior Diet?

As with everything else related to canine aging, the right time to switch to a diet designed to support a senior dog depends on the individual dog and her diet.

“When a dog enters what would be the second half of his/her expected lifespan, then they should get a thorough evaluation by their veterinarian,” says Churchill. This includes a physical exam, lab work and a diet evaluation to ensure their current diet is meeting all nutritional needs. “The diet may or may not be labeled ‘senior’ food, but it should be one that matches the individual dog’s needs,” she says.

Monitoring nutrition, ensuring proper exercise and enrichment, and scheduling regular vet visits can create opportunities to positively affect your dog’s aging process. “All in all, helping a dog age gracefully provides so much enjoyment, says Downing. “We just need to be aware, vigilant, and proactive.”

What Is a Double-Coated Dog?

By
Jessica Peralta
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Double coated dog breeds like this border collie require specialized coat care.
Double-coated dogs, like the Border Collie pictured here, require regular grooming to keep their coats and skin healthy. Credit: Bigandt_Photography | Getty Images

A dog with a double coat essentially has two types of hair: a smoother, protective topcoat and a dense, rough undercoat. Double-coated dog breeds come in all shapes, sizes, and temperaments. There are too many to list all of them, but some of the most popular double-coated dogs include Corgis, Border Collies, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Bernese Mountain Dogs. Regardless of shape and size, one thing they all have in common is shedding.

“Anyone considering getting a double-coated breed should know that there is no one solution to stop shedding,” says Joy Burton, AKC-certified professional dog groomer and co-owner of a Well Groomed franchise location in California. “The shedding is going to happen year-round so prepare yourself by getting all the necessary grooming tools you will need to maintain their coat at home as well as keeping them on a consistent grooming schedule to prevent undercoat buildup and excess shedding.”

Grooming Double-Coated Dogs

Regular grooming is an important part of caring for a double-coated dog. Without a proper grooming routine, the dog’s fur can form tangles and mats that may need to be cut out. If left unattended for long enough, these can become painful and even cause sores or skin damage.

Part of developing a good grooming strategy for your dog is understanding how his coat works. “The topcoat helps repel moisture and dirt while the undercoat works like insulation, protecting the pet from both cold and hot temperatures,” Burton says. “Double coats vary amongst breeds.”

To keep both layers of a double coat in good shape, you’ll want to:

  • Brush your dog three to four times a week to prevent undercoat buildup—and even more so during high-shedding seasons like summer and winter.
  • Use a rubber brush paired with a short bristle slicker brush on short, double coats.
  • Use a medium to long bristle slicker brush, greyhound comb, and undercoat rake on medium- and long-haired double coats.
  • Use a line-brushing technique to catch mats or dead undercoat. To “line-brush” a dog:
    1. Use a brush or comb to separate out a small section of fur.
    2. Mist the section with water or a detangling product (be sure to follow the directions on the label).
    3. Brush the section thoroughly with a pin brush.
    4. Run a comb through the section to ensure there are no tangles hiding.
    5. Move on to a spot a little above or to the side of the first section and repeat the process until the whole dog has been brushed out. It works best to start low and work your way up.
  • Get a deshedding bath at the dog’s regular grooming appointment every four to eight weeks.
  • Unless necessary for medical reasons, never shave a double-coated dog. “Doing so will permanently damage their coat,” Burton says. “It will grow back rough and patchy, dry or very oily, and could even not grow back at all. It also strips away the dog’s ability to cool themselves down in warmer weather and keep themselves warm in colder weather. The grow-back process after a double coat is shaved down can be very irritating and uncomfortable for them.”

Should You Get a Double-Coated Dog?

Many dog breeds have double coats and double coats themselves vary in length, thickness, and care required, so there are a lot of options for people interested in a double-coated dog. If you are thinking about bringing a double-coated dog into the family, the biggest thing to consider when it comes to the coat type is whether you mind shedding and some grooming maintenance.

“I would recommend double-coated breeds to anyone who can commit to the grooming maintenance that is required for this coat type,” says Joy. “I would also recommend them to anyone who lives in a cooler climate. Breeds like Siberian Huskies and Newfoundlands thrive in cooler environments.”

5 Popular Double-Coated Dog Breeds

While there are many double-coated dog breeds out there, here are a few popular examples:

  • Active and intelligent, Pembroke Welsh Corgis are smaller, roughly 30-pound herding dogs with thick, short double coats that shed significantly.
  • Border Collies often top lists of most intelligent dogs with double coats that come in both short and medium lengths. These medium-sized herders are incredibly active and agile working dogs that usually do best in active families.
  • Golden Retrievers are medium-large hunting dogs with a long list of job titles—from family pet to guide dog. Their medium-length double coats come in variations of gold. Known for their generally friendly temperaments, they are also energetic and need regular exercise.
  • German Shepherds have double coats that come in a variety of lengths and colors. Though technically herders, they’re all-around hard workers, sometimes finding jobs in law enforcement. They’re typically intelligent, protective, and loyal to their families, but do need plenty of exercise and often prefer to have a job.
  • Bernese Mountain Dogs are a larger working breed with a long, thick double coat. They frequently have a more relaxed disposition and, although they are workers, their exercise requirements tend to be more on the moderate side.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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How to train an aggressive dog? Choose the right trainer or veterinary behavioris.
In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

Aggression is a very common behavioral problem in pet dogs which many dog guardians struggle with. An aggressive dog can be dangerous and a liability in the event she hurts a person or another animal. The good news is that aggressive behavior can be successfully modified using a combination of good management and humane behavior modification techniques. Let’s explore why dogs show aggression and how to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively.

Why Do Dogs Show Aggression?

Aggression is a normal behavior for dogs and part of their species-specific behavioral repertoire. However, it can become problematic when shown in ways that put the safely and wellbeing of people or other animals at risk. Common reasons that dogs show aggression include:

  • Fear or anxiety: Aggression can be a symptom of underlying fear or anxiety triggered by a person, another animal, or a situation. In this case, aggression is used to increase the distance between the aggressing dog and a perceived threat.
  • Pain or illness: When a dog is unwell or in pain, they often have a reduced tolerance to things that wouldn’t otherwise bother them. This can result in an increased likelihood of aggression.
  • Territorial instincts: Despite being domesticated, dogs retain some instincts in common with their wild living relatives including the instinct to protect their territory (home). This can manifest in aggressive behavior (e.g. barking, growling and lunging) toward passers-by, other animals, or visitors to the home.
  • Resource guarding: Some dogs use aggression to gain or maintain access to high-value resources. This behavior often develops when a dog had to compete for access to resources (such as food) as a puppy or constantly had her resources taken away from her.
  • Social dynamics: Aggression can occur during interactions with other animals, particularly following new introductions, due to poor socialization or when relationship parameters are first being established.

How To Train an Aggressive Dog

Understanding the root cause of the aggression is essential to allow you to train an aggressive dog safely and effectively. Before you begin to train your aggressive dog, take the following steps:

  • Pinpoint the triggers that cause your dog to show aggression. Refer to the list above for assistance.
  • Identify the severity of the aggression in terms of its frequency and intensity. Is it mild, moderate, or severe? Does it happen frequently and has it persisted for a long time? Has the dog caused a serious injury to a person or another dog? If so, the aggression might be on the moderate to severe end of the scale.
  • Make an appointment with your veterinarian to identify and address or rule out a health or medical issue that could be causing or contributing to the aggression.
  • Use safety tools such as a muzzle, leash, crate, and baby gates to prevent harm to others and avoid, as much as possible, situations that trigger aggressive behavior.
  • Work with a professional trainer or behaviorist who specializes in aggression to ensure the right behavior modification practices are utilized.

When it comes to training an aggressive dog to reduce aggressive behavior the most common and effect strategies include:

  • Desensitization and Counterconditioning: This involves gradually exposing the dog to the trigger at a level that is well tolerated by the dog and does not elicit an aggressive response. At the same time, counterconditioning is implemented and involves pairing the trigger with positive experiences (high value food works best) to change the dog’s emotional response from a negative to a positive association.
  • Avoid using punishment: Using positive punishment can increase fear and escalate aggression (Arhant et al., 2010). Research shows that aversive training techniques jeopardize the mental and physical health of dogs (Ziv, 2017). Instead, positive reinforcement should be used.
  • Teaching an alternative behavior: Once the dog starts to anticipate the treats during this training you can ask for a behavior, such as sit or look, and reinforce that with the treats in the presence of the trigger.
  • Consistency, repetition, and patience: Training an aggressive dog takes time and progress is typically not linear. This means there will be good days and some bad days. The key is to be consistent and patient and work at your dog’s pace.
  • Regular monitoring and adjustment if needed: It’s important to monitor progress and keep in touch with your trainer or behaviorist so they can adjust the training plan if needed. Celebrate any improvements you make with your dog.

How To Manage and Handle an Aggressive Dog

Good management and handling of an aggressive dog will help to prevent bite injuries to people and other animals. The aim is to avoid or at least limit things that trigger the aggression and to handle the dog in a way that keeps you, other people, and other animals safe. This could include strategies such as always walking the dog on lead when outside the home, utilizing a muzzle, and walking the dog in areas where they are less likely to encounter triggers for aggression. For dogs who show aggression towards visitors to the home, it’s important to physically separate the dog from visitors at all times.

When it comes to handling, avoid attempting to physically move your dog, such as pulling them by the collar, as this will likely lead to an aggressive response. Instead, use positive reinforcement such as high value treats or their meal to encourage them to follow you if you need to move them from A to B.

Training an aggressive dog involves time, consistency, repetition, good management and a kind, positive reinforcement-based training approach. Working with a professional is highly recommended when it comes to training aggressive dogs due to the risk they pose to others.

How To Choose the Right Trainer or Behaviorist

Choosing the right trainer or behaviorist is crucial to getting the help you need to understand and learn how to train your aggressive dog safely and effectively. Due to a lack of regulation within the industry, anyone can refer to themselves as a dog trainer or behaviorist, even if they lack relevant qualifications. Unfortunately, this often results in unsuspecting owners engaging unqualified trainers or behaviorists who use outdated or harmful training techniques, such as shock collars, prong collars, and other punitive methods, which can make the aggression worse.

This means it’s up to dog guardians to do their due diligence and research local trainers and behaviorists to find one who is reputable, knowledgeable, and experienced teaching people how to train an aggressive dog.

Look for a dog trainer with formal dog training qualifications which prioritize positive reinforcement and humane techniques. There are several organizations in the United States that offer dog training courses utilizing the latest scientific understanding of dog behavior, learning, and welfare. These include the Karen Pryor Academy, the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT) and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC).

Animal Behaviorists have a master’s or Ph.D. level university qualification in animal behavior whereas veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians with further qualifications in animal behavior.

What is their training philosophy?

Look for trainers who have a modern training philosophy that prioritizes the use of humane and welfare friendly positive reinforcement techniques while avoiding harsh punishment.

Professional Memberships and Certifications

Reputable dog trainers and behaviorists are usually members of professional organizations and must adhere to the code of ethics, vision and mission set out by the organization.

There are also professional certification programs for animal and veterinary behaviorists such as the Animal Behavior Society’s Board Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Certification. These programs require a high level of academic education, knowledge of behavior, and extensive practical experience.

If you’re struggling with aggressive behavior in your dog, please reach out to a suitable professional. The right training for aggressive dogs can make the world of difference to them and the people that love them.

References

Arhant, C., Bubna-Littitz, H., Bartels, A., Futschik, A., & Troxler, J. (2010). Behaviour of smaller and larger dogs: Effects of training methods, inconsistency of owner behaviour and level of engagement in activities with the dog. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 123(3-4), 131-142.

Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs—A review. Journal of veterinary behavior, 19, 50-60.

PHOTO: Caption: In most cases, the right training can make a big difference for dogs exhibiting aggressive behaviors. Credit: sae1010 | Getty Images

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