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Why Do Dogs Roll in Stinky Things?! And What Can You Do About It?

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Most dogs enjoy a good roll on the grass; it helps scratch their itches (and helps stretch and adjust their spines in the process!) To our horror, many dogs also seek out strong-smelling substances to roll in, seeming to take delight in covering their shoulders, necks and heads with a greasy fish carcass, cat poop, or any dead animal they could find.

The walk starts innocently enough. Then you realize your dog, who has scampered ahead of you, has hit the ground and is writhing gleefully atop an odoriferous animal carcass or some excrement of unknown origin. 

Sound, or, perhaps more accurately, smell familiar?

Most every dog owner can recount tales of their canine companions having rolled in something stinky, often at the most inopportune time, like shortly following a bath. Why do dogs do this? And why do they always choose odors that are maximally offensive to us, like dead animals or poop, and not the lovely lavender patch?

Truth is, we don’t specifically know, but there are several theories out there:

 Stink facilitates stealth? Many have suggested the behavior is an evolutionary carryover from dogs’ days as wild predators, noting the tendency of wolves to roll in feces and atop animal carcasses. Some biologists have suggested this behavior could be designed to assist with hunting by masking or camouflaging a dog’s own predator scent in an effort to more effectively sneak up on prey. 

We may not know why dogs roll in smelly substances, but there is no mistaking the look of joy and delight on a dog’s face for anything else when they are hard at it.

Stanley Coren, Ph.D., author of several books about dog behavior and “Canine Corner” columnist for Psychology Today, notes this idea makes both evolutionary and adaptive sense. He explained that if an antelope smelled the scent of a wild dog, jackal, or wolf nearby, the antelope would likely bolt and run for safety. But, because antelopes are used to the smell of their own droppings and carrion (decaying flesh) is common on open plains, “prey animals are less likely to be frightened or suspicious of a hairy thing coated with that smell,” he wrote in one of his columns.

Renowned behaviorist and author Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., is skeptical about that theory. In a 2015 blog post exploring potential reasons why dogs roll in substances that we find to be highly unsavory, she points out how “most prey animals are highly visual, and use sight and sound to be on alert for predators.” 

She argues that, first, hoofed animals have greater peripheral vision due to the placement of their eyes, and they have ears that “swivel around like mobile satellite dishes.” If a prey animal’s sense of smell is adept enough to recognize predator scent, says McConnell, the animal can likely recognize that scent even when layered with the similar scent of its same species, or that of carrion from the surrounding area.

Finally, some scientists have noted that, while wolves sometimes ambush their targets while hunting, it’s more common for them to chase down prey, lessening the need for as stealthy an approach. 

 Advertising access to resources? Another theory is that rolling around in feces or atop a carcass is a way to share valuable information with other dogs. Researchers at Wolf Park in Battleground, Ind., have found that wolves often followed a scent to its source after smelling it on a pack-mate. In the wild, returning to the pack awash in eau de dead animal might help lead others to a source of food. At the very least, it advertises one’s ability to access a valuable resource, which can make for an attractive mate.

 Is it about the dog’s scent? A lesser-supported hypothesis is that the rolling behavior might be to distribute the dog’s scent onto the stinky item, rather than the other way around. This seems like a largely ineffective method compared to marking with urine or feces, especially when dealing with matter so pungent, so experts believe this is unlikely. 

 It’s fun?! There’s no mistaking a dog’s sheer delight as they roll about, often oblivious to our despair. Some scientists believe the behavior triggers a rush of dopamine, a neurotransmitter involved in reward and pleasure. While the behavior likely served an important function in dogs’ evolutionary past, for today’s domesticated dogs, that function has vanished, but the behavior remains because it feels good.

My own dog is known for his daily exuberant rolls in the park, usually commencing after a few happy retrieves of a favorite ball. He’ll trot a few steps away, lie down, and proceed to flip belly up, legs flailing as his body lurches side to side. His tongue hangs from his mouth and he snorts in delight, looking absolutely joyful. To me the message seems clear: Let the good times roll! 

WHAT CAN YOU DO?

As with many things in dog training, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you’re likely to encounter nasty things in which your dog will want to roll, keep him on-leash! If using a long line or allowing your dog off leash, pay attention to your dog! Time with your dog, especially when you’ve chosen to let him off leash, should be spent engaged with your dog, not your mobile device. 

Australian Kelpies were historically bred to work sheep, a hardy and tough breed, they also excel at herding cattle. This Kelpie-mis loves cattle…poop! She covers herself with fresh, wet cow poop any chance she gets, so, no more off-leash walks in cow pastures!

1.  Practice name recognition. Teach your dog to quickly orient to you when you say his name. Begin this behavior in a familiar area with few to no distractions and work your way up. With your dog on leash, casually maneuver so that you’re behind him. Say his name. When he turns to look at you, mark the moment using a clicker or marker word such as “Yes!” and offer a treat paired with praise and enjoyable petting.

If he doesn’t turn around, repeat his name up to two more times, using a happy, upbeat tone of voice. If he hasn’t turned around after three tries, playfully tap him on the rear to get his attention, praising him enthusiastically as he turns around. From there, evaluate the situation to determine what made the behavior so challenging. Likely, he was distracted by something and the “pull” of the distraction was too great. 

Before trying again, make a point to move away from the distraction, stacking the deck in your favor that he’ll be able to respond to his name within three tries. The goal is to make it easy for him to be correct. The more we can reward the desired response, the more we’ll see the desired response and the faster it will happen.

When this behavior is solid, the dog should happily turn toward you, if not return to you, in anticipation of a reward. Use this behavior randomly while on walks to build and maintain a strong reinforcement history. It’s a great way to keep a dog out of trouble, especially when he’s off leash. 

When my dog appears to be taking interest in something – especially if I can’t see what it is – I use his name (or formal recall cue) to call him back to me and we approach together. If the item is on the “approved list” he’s free to check it out. If not, I’ve prevented an unwanted situation.

2.  Teach a solid recall. As a trainer, I can’t stress this enough. The single most important behavior you can teach your dog is to reliably come when called. A dog who comes when called is more likely to earn the freedom to safely experience off-leash adventures in appropriate settings and is overall safer in general. 

Enjoying some off-leash time along the river? Notice your dog sniffing a rotting fish along the shore? Call her back to you before she escalates her sniffing to the roll of doom! (See “Rocket Recall,” WDJ September 2015; “Games for Building a Reliable Recall,” September 2014, and “Training Your Dog to Execute an ‘Extremely Fast’ Reliable Recall,” September 2012.)

3.  Reward all natural check-ins. As you walk with your dog, especially when he’s up ahead of you via a long line or when he’s off leash, pay attention to the moments when he pauses and looks back at you or chooses to return without being called. Reinforcing these natural check-ins with praise, petting, and the frequent addition of treats reinforces the idea that you’re walking together. 

The more you’re walking in partnership with your dog, the greater the chance he can still happily explore the environment without becoming so fixated on any one thing (like something gross he wants to roll in) that he ignores your attempts to redirect his attention or call him away from something gross. 

4.  Anticipate problem areas. If you can predict where or when your dog is likely to roll in something foul, don’t give him the opportunity to do so. Maybe it’s the parkway flowerbed three doors down, the one the neighborhood cats routinely use as a litter box. 

If you’ve been burned by your dog’s stop, drop, and roll antics, don’t let him pull you toward the danger zone, even if it seems he only wants an innocent sniff. Keep your dog’s attention on you as you approach and pass the flowerbed of doom using upbeat conversation and praise paired with treats and a favorite toy as necessary. Make not stopping to look for cat poop in which to roll more fun than doing so. 

Getting Rid of the Stench

If you find yourself needing to bathe an especially stinky dog, we recommend the age-old recipe for de-skunking a dog, as the combination of the two main ingredients effectively break down natural odors. Mix one quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with ¼ cup baking soda in a bucket or large bowl. Stir in a teaspoon or two of grease-cutting liquid soap; using a grease-cutting soap is important because many foul-smelling, organic substances are oily. Make sure the hydrogen peroxide is fresh and fizzy; it’s an unstable compound that, over time, will break down and lose its effectiveness as an odor neutralizer.

Rub the mixture into the dog’s coat, avoiding the eyes and lips (it stings!), and let it sit briefly before rinsing. Don’t wait too long to rinse, as the peroxide can bleach the coat. Do not attempt to store any leftover formula; the combination of ingredients can explode if left in a bottle. 

There are also several deodorizing shampoos available commercially. We’ve heard good things about Durvet Naturals Basics Deodorizing Shampoo and Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover, which works on a variety of odors, not just skunk spray. The Nature’s Miracle product is also safe to use on clothing and carpet. 

As a dog owner, it’s never a bad idea to keep an odor-removing product on hand – just in case! – so they don’t have to be left to spread the stink around while you are out buying something to get it off of them!

 

DAMAGE CONTROL

If your dog does manage to hit the deck and adorn herself in something gross, don’t get mad at her. After all, she’s engaging in perfectly normal dog behavior, and we, as her handler, gave her the opportunity, even if by accident. 

Instead, focus on interrupting the behavior as quickly as possible to minimize the damage, and be sure to praise as soon as she’s on her feet. This can take great self-control, especially when you’re now standing next to a stinky, manure-covered canine, but it’s important to reward her compliance. 

It’s always a good idea to keep a cleanup kit in your car. Dogs will be dogs, and we never know when an innocent walk in the park will result in a muddy or stink-covered canine. My dogs ride in crates, which makes it super easy to contain a mess. 

If that’s not an option, a couple of towels, a large jug of water, and an old sheet to fully protect the car’s interior will go a long way toward getting everyone home – or to the nearest groomer – as cleanly as possible. Another great suggestion is to add an old t-shirt to the cleanup kit and make the offending dirty dog wear it as a barrier between the grossness and your car. 

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California. She works in the puppy department at Guide Dogs of America, helping to recruit and manage volunteer puppy raisers.

Download the Full May 2020 Issue PDF

  • ON A ROLL
  • CANINE ULCERS
  • CHANGING THE RESOURCE-GUARDER
  • ON THE HORNS OF A DILEMMA
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Editorial: Penance

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I’ve been haunted for some years ago by an experience with a shelter dog. The person who does the evaluations of prospective adoption candidates at my local shelter asked me if I could spend some time with the backlog of dogs waiting for assessment; she asked me to hang out with them and make some notes about them.   

There was one dog I particularly liked; a Rottweiler- or perhaps a Swiss Mountain Dog-mix. She was cute, friendly, and smart. I recommended that she advance to the adoption row, and photographed her so she’d have a nice promotional picture on the shelter website. But a day later, I got a call from the evaluator (who is also a friend). “I know you really liked that big black dog in kennel 9,” she said, “but I wanted to let you know that I’m not going to advance her.” That was meant to be a gentle euphemism; I knew she meant euthanasia. I was shocked; I thought the dog was lovely. “Oh, shoot. Why?” My friend heard the emotion in my voice and said, “If you want, you can come back and I’ll show you what I didn’t like.” 

The next day I spent about a half-hour playing with the dog; I still really liked her!  Then my friend joined me, and we put a leash on the dog and led her into a quiet room in the shelter. I decided to take video of the assessment; the photo that appears on the cover and also on page 9, accompanying WDJ Training Editor Pat Miller’s article on resource-guarding, is a still taken from the video I recorded. 

My friend put a bowl full of canned dog food on the floor for the dog, who dove right into the moist stew. And then my friend used a tool that is widely employed by shelters in these food-guarding evaluations, a rubber hand on the end of a stick. It enables the evaluator to pretend to reach for or pick up the dog’s food while she’s still eating it, so it can be ascertained whether the dog will display any guarding behavior, without any person actually being bitten. 

In less than a minute, the dog sped right through all the behaviors listed on the “resource-guarding assessment form” we’ve reproduced on page 10: freezing, growling, flashing a “whale eye,” flipping the bowl away from the hand, snarling, gesturing with her head toward the hand, performing an “air snap” in the direction of the hand, and finally, giving it a solid bite. And after she finished the food, she appeared to go right back to being the sunny, friendly dog I liked so much.

I was stunned; I hadn’t ever experienced a dog like that. I told my friend I understood and trusted her judgment – but, days later, I was still having second thoughts. I called and asked Pat Miller: “Can behavior like that be modified?” and she assured me it could. But the dog was already dead.

I hope that Pat’s insights and recommendations in this article can save some other “guardy” dog’s life – and keep his or her family safe, too.

5 Indoor Dog Games for When You Can’t Go Out

indoor dog games
Photo: TeamDAF

As coronavirus confinement stretches on, dogs and humans are getting buggier by the day from lack of exercise. While there are limits to the physical exercise you two can do while shut-in, there are many indoor dog games you can enjoy together. 

In recent years, behavior scientists have refuted prior thinking that dog brains were pretty limited. (Scientists now acknowledge that canines have extensive cognitive abilities, which has given rise to a whole new range of canine toys, games and training protocols.. Because thinking is very tiring (remember studying for that chemistry exam?), the really good news is that brain exercise can be as tiring and fun as physical exercise.

Here are some of our favorite indoor dog games to help you and your dog survive social distancing during the coronavirus pandemic:

Interactive DIY Dog Toys

While there are commercially-available interactive toys, you can also make toys from things you have at home. Here are some DIY ideas:

Muffin Tin Game: Take a muffin tin and as many tennis balls as your tin has cups. Place a treat in each cup, and press a tennis ball into the cup. Show your dog there’s a treat under the ball if necessary, then hold the tin while she works to recover the goodies.

Tootsie Rug Roll: Let your dog watch you roll up a carpet runner as you drop treats into the runner every six to twelve inches. When the carpet is completely rolled up say “Find it!” and let her figure out how to nudge the roll open to get to the treats. Sometimes feed her meals this way!

Watch Closely: Put three opaque drinking mugs on the floor (wood or vinyl floor works best). Show your dog a treat and place it under one mug. Say “Find it!” and wait for her to nose one of the mugs. When she does, pick up that mug. If the treat is there, let her eat it. If it’s not, cheerfully say, “Too bad!” reset the treat and mugs, and repeat. When she noses the correct mug reliably 8 out of 10 times, take the next step: put the treat under one mug, and shuffle two of the three mugs once. The treat is now moved by one spot. Say “Find it!” Pick up the mug she noses. If it’s there let her eat it. If not, say “Too bad!” and repeat. When she’s successful 8 out of 10 tries, increase difficulty, first by shuffling all three mugs briefly, then shuffling for longer periods.

Cognition Games

Cognition means “mental processes involved in gaining knowledge and comprehension, including thinking, knowing, remembering, judging and problem-solving.” As we learn more about canine cognition, we add even more creativity to our training. 

Related: Are Canines Cognitive?

Here are some simple dog cognition exercises:

Choice: Let your dog watch you close a treat in one fist. Offer him both closed fists and say “You choose!” Open the fist he sniffs first. If the treat is there, let him eat it. If it’s not, say “Too bad!” and repeat. When he chooses the treat-fist 8 out of 10 times, generalize “You choose” to other situations and let him indicate his choice. Go the door and say “Inside or outside? You choose!” Let his body language tell you which he wants, and honor his choice. Take him for a walk on leash, and when the path divides, say “This way or that way? You choose!” Do these (and many more) as frequently as possible, and he’ll happily understand what it means when you are giving him a choice. 

Want More Tips? Read Pro-Choice from the November 2016  issue.

Object Discrimination: Start with objects your dog already interacts with. Say “Ball, touch!” and invite him to touch it with his nose or paw. Repeat until he does this promptly and reliably, then do it with a second known object: “Fluffy, touch!” Now hold out both objects with one much closer to him, and ask him to touch the one that’s closer. Repeat, randomly swapping the closer one. Gradually decrease the offset until both are the same distance and he can touch the requested item reliably 8 of 10 times. Now add other objects to his repertoire, including new objects that you name.

There are many more cognitive and interactive games you can teach your dog, including reading, color discrimination, imitation and painting.

These days, the fun you can have with your dog indoors is limited only by your imagination and creativity. Time to get busy!

Read Next: Copy That

Pet Food Shortages? Don’t Panic

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I read an article the other day about a pork processing plant in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, shutting down due to hundreds of workers becoming infected with COVID 19; at the time the article was published, 293 of the 730 people in South Dakota who had been diagnosed with COVID-19 [as of April 12, the number has increased] work at the plant.

My very first thought was not “OMG, how will this affect my bacon supply?” but, “OMG, I wonder how the dog food companies are faring.”

Pet Food Production Is An Essential Service

Food production is an essential service – even pet food production. But any manufacturing plant brings people close together and can be a vector for transmission of a virus. That said, in my experience, it takes far more employees to operate a meat-packing plant than a pet food manufacturing plant, and the employees who work on the butchering and packaging lines work far closer together than employees at pet food manufacturing plants.

So far, we’re not seeing any reports of pet food companies slowing or stopping production. Pet food manufacturers might be more hampered by ingredient shortages than manpower shortages, at least in the short term – and so, at some point in the next few months, some of us might be unable to find our dogs’ favorite food when we run out.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) released a statement regarding the actions it is taking to safeguard the food (and pet food) supply, and assuring the public that empty shelves are due to unprecedented demand, not a lack of capacity to produce, process, and deliver food. The pet food industry trade publications, too, report that while manufacturers are taking steps to protect the health and safety of their workers and their products, for the most part, the pet food producers are, if anything, increasing production to meet demand.

The coronavirus crisis has increased pet food demand

And demand has been high. Pet trade industry publications confirm that consumers definitely stocked up on pet food in March. Petfood Industry conducted a poll of pet food companies, and reported that 52% of 81 respondents stated that sales increased substantially since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Another 28% reported that sales had increased “somewhat.”

A different trade publication, Pet Food Processing, also conducted a poll of pet food manufacturers, and reported that 63% of respondents said they had seen an increase in demand for their products.

None of us want to be caught short of food for our beloved animal companions – hence the stocking up. But I want to remind owners that while processed pet food has a very convenient shelf life, it’s not indefinite. Dry food, in particular, degrades over time, with the fats in the food becoming increasingly rancid.

Dog food has a limited shelf life

Most dry dog foods are sold with a “best if purchased by” date that’s about 9 months to 18 months past its date of manufacture; 12 months is average. Natural preservatives such as “mixed tocopherols” (vitamin E) or ascorbic acid (vitamin C) don’t prevent rancidity as long as artificial preservatives such as BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, but these synthetic preservatives have been associated with adverse health effects. The foods that are preserved with these synthetic chemicals will last the longest (and be labeled with the most distant “best by” dates), but, in general, these products also tend to have additional attributes that will disqualify them from WDJ’s “approved foods” lists.

Canned foods, of course, last a lot longer, entirely without preservatives. They are much more expensive, however. Same with freeze-dried and frozen foods.

Buying an extra bag or two, or even a couple months’ worth of food in advance, might help you reduce the number of trips you need to make out of your home, but please don’t go crazy and buy a year’s worth of food. I guarantee that, by the time you feed the last of it, some of it will be degraded and rancid enough to give your dog chronic diarrhea.

Don’t forget to switch your dog’s food

Instead, practice the same kind of flexible feeding that we have always recommended; if you frequently switch the brand and varieties of food you feed your dog, it won’t be a problem if one or more of your favorites is temporarily unavailable. In a pinch, I’d probably advise feeding a fresher, lower-quality food than a really old, super high-quality food, even if the bag had been kept in the ideal cool, dry, dark storage place for the entire time (and how many of you even have a place like that year-round for food storage?).

The only exceptions? Those of you whose dogs have severe food allergies and need to feed a rigidly controlled diet that doesn’t vary. If this describes you and your dog, you have my utmost sympathies. You probably already have secured a supply of your dog’s food that will last at least a month or two; just try not to go crazy and buy a whole year’s worth.

Keep taking those dogs and yourselves for daily walks! Now, more than ever, we all need them for health.

How to Prevent Your Dog From Bugging You When You’re Working From Home

working from home
Photo: Likoper/ Getty Images

A whole lot of dog owners are working from home now, thanks to the coronavirus pandemic. Lots of dogs are loving it – and lots of dog owners are discovering that their canine companions are really good at demanding their attention while they are trying to work. Since it looks like this social isolation situation is likely to last a while, we’re sharing some management and training protocols to help get you and your four-footed pal(s) through self-quarantine.

Our first, very important piece of advice is – remember to not reinforce your dog’s demand behavior. Try to anticipate her need for attention and spend time with her before she gets pushy. Tire her out in the morning before you sit down in front of your computer so she’ll be happy to lie quietly at your feet when you’re ready to work. Then, if she’s nudgy or barky for attention, ignore her until she is calm and quiet. Of course no hitting or yelling. Remember to reinforce her appropriate behaviors!

Related: Ask (Nicely) and You Shall Receive, August 2017

Survival Guide For Dog owners working from Home
Photo: martinedoucet / Getty Images

Here is a survival guide for dog owners working from home:

Exercise: A tired dog is a happy owner. While there may be some restrictions on going for walks, that doesn’t stop you from doing other things. (A walk on leash isn’t really much exercise for your dog anyway!) If your dog will fetch a ball or a toy, throw one in the yard (or down the hall, or down the stairs – carpeted for safety) until she’s ready to collapse at your feet. Some dogs learn to love a treadmill (this one will take some training!). Put brooms across chairs in your living room and encourage your dog to jump over them. Other indoor exercise games include On-the-Bed, Off-the-Bed; back-and-forth recalls with family members on different levels and at different ends of the house… get creative!!

Scent Work: This activity is amazingly tiring for dogs, and wonderfully fun for dog and human. Start by letting your dog watch you hide a few treats, then release her to find them. Eventually put her in another room while you hide treats, then let her look for them. (Don’t help her!). You can even hide yourself (or your kids) and let her find you! (Related: Everyone Nose That, September 2019)

Enrichment: Rather than feeding your dog and then sitting down, put her meals in food-dispensing toys and let her work for her food while you work. Keeps her busy, and uses up energy canine energy. (Related:Play With Your Food, April 2019)

Training: You now have time to train your dog – no excuses. (If there is an upside to coronavirus, this might be it.) You can teach everything from basic manners training to tricks and more to help your dog learn to behave more appropriately in your home – and to tire her out. (Related Tricks for Clicks, April 2016). 

Especially useful behaviors to train for dog-bugging-you issues include “Settle,” (See Give It a Rest, September 2015,) and mat work (See Useful Matters, January 2020). It’s also very useful to teach an “All done” cue. When you’re finished throwing the ball or toy, say “All done!” in a cheerful tone of voice and put the ball away in a drawer and ignore any of her attempts to get you to engage. This cue can eventually generalize so that when you say “All done!” she’ll know you mean it and there’s no point in bugging you for more.

Management: Last, but not least… you can use a crate or exercise pen, or even a tether, to restrain your dog near you while you work but prevent her from physically bugging you. You are likely, at least at first, to have to provide her with those food dispensing toys mentioned about, or some other long-lasting chew, and she’ll do better if you’ve exercised her well in advance, but in time there’s a very good chance she’ll learn the routine and be able to settle for you. If she’s not already crate or ex-pen trained, now’s the perfect time! 

Now when your boss says quit playing with your dog and get back to work, you can.

Saving Animals While Keeping People Safe From COVID-19

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Wow, the world has changed so much in such a short time. This occurs to me several times a day, but today’s biggest shock was a blog post written by Julie Levy, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, DABVP, Fran Marino Endowed Professor of Shelter Medicine Education, Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program, University of Florida – in other words, a highly educated, passionate proponent of spay/neuter practices, especially in shelter medicine. Dr. Levy’s shocking post? A plea for shelter and rescue programs to suspend spay/neuter surgeries temporarily in order to support “safer at home” practices, slowing the spread of COVID-19.

It takes a village

While all operations of an animal shelter require workers to show up to care for the animals, surgery, in particular, brings people together in very close quarters. Of course, sterile conditions are maintained during surgery. But I’ve been behind the scenes at both veterinary clinics and shelters when they were doing back-to-back spay/neuter surgeries. There is a small army of people working in support of the veterinarian who performs the surgeries: people bathing animals, taking their temperatures, inducing sedation, shaving them, helping intubate and secure them on the surgery table, monitoring the anesthesia equipment, moving “packs” of sterilized surgical tools through the process (delivering clean packs to the vet, taking away used instruments, readying the used instruments for sterilization), providing the sort of routine husbandry tasks that are immensely easier when the patient is still sedated (ear cleaning, nail-trimming, expressing anal glands), monitoring the animals after surgery and helping them “wake up” safely. Social distancing is impossible in this setting – and performing all of these tasks under layers of protective equipment is a lot more challenging in the (perennially) tighter confines of a veterinary surgical suite.

For those of us who volunteer or work closely with shelters or rescues, spay/neuter is a third-rail sort of proposition. There are no stronger proponents of limiting the reproduction of dogs and cats than us – and yes, as a long-time shelter volunteer, I count myself as one of those people. As long as dogs and cats in this country are being euthanized in the hundreds of thousands a year, I will be an avid advocate for limiting the ability of most pets to procreate.

(What about the adverse effects on the health of the altered animals? So glad you asked: In the May issue, we have a major feature looking at the scientific literature regarding the effects of spay/neuter on dogs. Stand by!)

Dr. Levy’s plea to temporarily halt spay/neuter surgery

Dr. Levy is not alone in recommending that shelters and rescues temporarily move forward with adoptions and placing animals in foster homes without first performing spay/neuter surgery; the recommendation is being shared by all the major university shelter-medicine programs in North America: The University of Wisconsin-Madison Shelter Medicine Program, University of Florida Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program, University of California- Davis Koret Shelter Medicine Program, Cornell Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program, Humane Canada, The Association for Advancement of Animal Welfare, Association of Shelter Veterinarians, Ontario Shelter Medicine Association and the Association Vétérinaire Québécoise de Médicine de Refuge.

Here’s an excerpt from Dr. Levy’s blog post:

The urgency of this unprecedented pandemic calls for radical action to protect human lives, and as a consequence of that, to protect animal lives. Of utmost importance is to support our healthcare system, which is close to the breaking point, via #SaferAtHome.  It is no longer just about our animal welfare missions, but about those brave souls who are literally putting their lives and personal welfare on the line for us. The sacrifices we make in this moment will determine what larger sacrifices will be thrust upon us in the coming weeks and months. It is time to suspend routine spay-neuter.

This will help keep as many people as possible healthy and out of our community hospitals so that life-saving beds are available when needed.  This will safeguard our staff so that when this crisis subsides, and it will, we have an intact work force of experts that can go back to work with renewed vigor and tackle the animal needs that we are all highly committed to…

Spay/neuter is a tool of lifesaving, but we are too creative and resourceful to believe we cannot overcome in other ways, kitten season notwithstanding. Pausing spay/neuter is a gut punch, and it will have consequences – kittens will be born, revenue will fall, staff may be furloughed – but these pale in comparison to the alternative.

A “gut punch” – that’s the perfect expression to describe how I felt reading Dr. Levy’s post. Especially since I am currently helping a friend with fostering a litter of 10 puppies for our local shelter – puppies who are at the perfect age for getting placed in homes. The idea of sending those pups away with people who may not manage to get them back to the shelter (at some point in the future, god willing) in time to prevent them from reproducing is anathema to me. And yet, do I want the veterinarian, registered veterinary technicians, and other shelter staff members to risk their health and that of their families in order to prevent this from happening? I do not.

What shelters are doing during this crisis

I’ve been watching the websites and Facebook pages of shelters that I admire to see how they are dealing with the intake and adoption of animals. Most shelters have closed their doors to the public at this time, asking people to call the shelter to discuss surrenders, adoptions, or other needs. The most organized shelters (and those who are best-supported by volunteers in their communities) have sent most or all of their adoptable animals out to foster homes. Most are in the process of setting up online “meet and greet” sessions in support of potential adoptions, reserving the transfer of animals for only the most pre-qualified, committed adopters. I’m trying to help my shelter accomplish this, if only for these pups! (I have to admit to feeling special urgency about puppies; I hate the idea of them spending the most formative weeks of their lives seeing only my friend and me and our dogs; for the best socialization experience they can have in these trying times, I’d so prefer to get them into the hands of their adoptive families as soon as possible.)

Tell me: What are shelters in your area doing with their wards today? Are you helping in any way? If you don’t know what’s happening at your local shelter and have a little time to spare to help, give them a call!

Good Reads

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For the most part, the articles in WDJ contain information that you can go right out and put into practice – training tips, food-selection suggestions, product reviews, and practical things that you can do improve your dog’s health. While we do have a couple of those in this issue, we also seem to have collected a number of articles that (we hope) will provide you with food for thought, too. 

The first article that falls into this latter category, “Howling in the Uncanny Valley”. The article sprang from an online conversation I had with its author, trainer Heather Houlahan, as we commiserated about how much we both hated the computer-generated imagery (CGI) used to wholly create the dog in the new movie The Call of the Wild. The human expressions the movie artists covered the otherwise winsome animated (but real-looking) dog’s face with absolutely gave me the shivers – and not the good kind. Heather and I both felt our skin crawling with revulsion when we saw the CGI dog’s weird gaits and human-looking eyes – yet we know other people who didn’t detect anything wrong with the depiction of the dog at all. When Heather asked me if I’d like her to write an essay expressing why she felt this sort of unreal, sort-of-real-looking dog’s appearance in a popular movie could actually do damage to the human-animal bond, I was more than happy to give her the assignment.

I had never before heard the expression “the uncanny valley” before I received Heather’s piece, and I found it fascinating to follow a number of online links from the Wikipedia.org page that defined the term. The observations made about the creepiness of human-like robots in those articles definitely rang true for me – but even more strongly to the CGI dog in The Call of the Wild than for human-like robots. I’ll be curious to hear what you think about all this.

Another eclectic piece in this issue that I was fascinated by: long-time contributor CJ Puotinen’s article about “conservation dogs” – dogs who are trained to find endangered animals (as well as the poachers who threaten them). The dogs are also used to sniff out invasive plants and animals that threaten native populations and habitats! I’m not exactly sure how many of you will go out and train your own dogs to do work like this – but if any of you want to, there are some stellar role models and organizations mentioned in the article that would provide guidance to do so. 

I think it would be the coolest thing ever if one of our subscribers read about this work and was inspired to take it up with their dog. Please let us know if that person is you!

It’s Tick Season!

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"Blacklegged ticks are also called deer ticks or bear ticks. The nymph form of the tick is really tiny. Two of the three ticks I have found on my own body recently were larger – and readily detected – dog ticks."

One minute, my husband and I were having a perfectly ordinary conversation in the kitchen. In the next moment, I was ripping off my sweatshirt, my T-shirt, and what I had on under that. No, my husband’s words were not seductive and it wasn’t a hot flash. Can you guess?

“Ack! Tick! On my back! Get it! Get it! Get it!”

With all the restrictions on socializing, my only recreation has been taking my dogs for walks – and three times in the past week, I’ve suddenly felt the unmistakable sensation of something crawling on my body where nothing ought to be crawling. The one that made me rip off my clothes in the kitchen was the third one!

That creepy sensation

The first one woke me out of a dead sleep. I had fallen asleep on the couch while watching a late-night movie, and woke up thrashing – a tick was walking across my wrist! Somehow I came wide-awake immediately and managed to precisely grab the insect – a big dog tick – between my fingers. Nothing, and I mean nothing, has ever awakened me so quickly, zero to 60, as fast as that feeling.

The second one was while we were walking on a trail. I felt what I thought was maybe a mosquito on my neck. But when a wave of my hand didn’t stop the feeling of something tiny touching me, my fingers explored and I felt the insect crawling along my hairline. I flung it away from me and immediately regretted the action; it would live another day! Darn it! I could have killed it!

The only solace I have regarding the current infestation, typical for this season in this area, is that I haven’t (yet) discovered a tick that had already embedded itself on my body somewhere. I have pulled a couple off of Otto – who is a tick magnet – and just this morning, removed a teeny deer tick, smaller than the head of a pin, from Woody’s eyelid, where it was almost invisible among his eyelashes (he kept rubbing his eye, which made me investigate further). But so far, my sensitivity to the crawling sensation has kept me safe from a bite.

I’m struggling as I write this to keep myself from investigating an imagined crawling sensation every few minutes. I don’t have a tick on me now – at least, I am pretty sure I don’t – but after every discovery of one of the creepy insects, I suffer from lingering paranoia for days. Ugh, I despise them!

I have been flea-combing the dogs assiduously after our walks, and yet, somehow, ticks are getting brought home and into the house – and onto the sofa and onto me! This is making me wish for some sort of pressurized airlock that the whole family (canine and human) has to pass through in order to get into the house, something powerful enough to blow all loose particles off of us and into a flame chamber. If you’re an engineer, you can patent that puppy for free! Just send me a unit when it goes to market, will you?

What do you do that works best for protecting your family (canine and human) from ticks?

Pain’s Effect on Behavior

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It's easy to normalize and thus miss signs that a dog may be in pain, such as the "funny" posture that this Pug displays when sitting. In reality, the dog likely has discomfort in her back, hops, and/or knees that make sitting in a more conventional way too painful.

Behavior problems such as anxiety or aggression are commonly diagnosed in pet dogs, and, as many dog owners have discovered, can be quite challenging to fully resolve. Daniel Mills, FRCVS, a veterinary researcher and behaviorist at the University of Lincoln (England), suggests that a large portion of behavior problems are exacerbated or caused by physical pain, and that resolution of that pain can mitigate or even resolve the behavioral issue. Almost 80% of the behavior problems in his own practice, says Dr. Mills, have a component of diagnosed or suspected pain. 

Dr. Mills is passionate about raising awareness of the importance of recognizing and treating pain in behavior cases – so much so that he has collaborated with other researchers and behaviorists to publish a framework for thinking about these cases, along with a case series of examples from his and others’ practices.

Mills describes a number of cases sharing a recurring theme: The initial veterinary consult reports the physical exam, blood work, and possibly even radiographs as “unremarkable.” Yet a subsequent exam with a veterinarian considering pain as a possible cause turns up something suggestive – perhaps an awkward gait, an uneven weight distribution suggesting the dog is shifting weight off one leg, or the owner reveals under more pointed questioning that the dog has been reluctant to go for walks recently. Often, an old injury that was thought to be resolved is mentioned. Further testing finds a likely cause of pain – or, sometimes, not. But either way, a trial of analgesics results in return to normal behavior.

Mills’ framework divides pain-related behavior cases into four categories: 

Unwanted behavior directly caused by pain.

Pain causing secondary behavioral issues in addition to existing ones.

Unwanted behavior exacerbated by pain.

Behaviors that may not be problematic to owners, but are actually signs of pain.

Let’s look at each of these categories in turn.

  • Unwanted behavior caused by pain. Veterinarians are trained to recognize certain behavior changes as indicative of pain, such as decreases in normal activity, licking the affected area, changes in gait, repeated shifting of weight while standing, and the most obvious of all, a flinch or yelp when the area is touched. 

Vets are less likely, however, to recognize some of the more unusual manifestations of pain, such as star gazing (staring at the ceiling or sky) or compulsive disorders, which can be indicative of gastrointestinal [GI]distress; pica (compulsive eating of non-food objects), which may be related to musculoskeletal pain in addition to the more obvious GI link; hypersensitivity to heat or cold; increased clinginess and seeking of attention from the owner; as well as behaviors more commonly considered problematic, such as fear, anxiety, aggression, resource guarding, or destruction of household items when left alone.

Small dogs who snarl and snap when they anticipate being picked up are often labeled as being “brats” or “spoiled” when they are actually suffering from undiagnosed spinal pain. Often the behavior will vanish or vastly reduce in frequency and intensity after the dog receives medication for pain.

In fact, differences between presentations of aggression can point veterinarians to suspicion of a pain component. In the cases described by Dr. Mills, dogs with pain-based aggression are often described as Jekyll and Hyde-like, with unexpected and sudden behavior changes. Pain-based aggression appears to occur more commonly when dogs are approached by a person, particularly when they are lying down. These dogs are more likely to bite a limb than any other part of the body, and their aggression is briefer and easier to interrupt.

Behavioral changes caused by pain may be more subtle than outright aggression. Dogs performing at a high level in work or sports may begin to show degraded performance that doesn’t have a clear cause, but resolves when pain is identified and addressed. 

While pain may certainly prevent a dog from reaching his full athletic potential, it can also have more psychological effects, such as making learning more difficult. The dog may appear to be less able to absorb training; imagine trying to listen to a challenging lecture with a splitting headache.

  • Pain causing secondary behavioral issues in addition to existing ones. Behavior cases can be quite complex, and full resolution is not always reached. The owner may feel that they have hit a wall and that progress has stopped; relapses are common and frustrating. In some cases, those final steps may be elusive because of an unrecognized pain component. 

Initially, picking apart which behaviors are due to pain and which are due to other triggers may be nearly impossible. However, as some unwanted behaviors are resolved through treatment of a behavioral diagnosis, while others begin to appear intractable, the relevance of pain may be revealed.

In one such case, a Border Collie with separation anxiety was destructive when left alone, digging through carpet and door frames. While his anxiety appeared to improve with anti-anxiety medication and behavioral modification, his digging did not. Pain in a hind leg, redirected to nearly compulsive digging with his front legs, was resolved with medication, and the digging stopped. 

In this case, the digging initially appeared to be part of the dog’s separation anxiety, and as a result, difficulty in resolving the digging was initially assumed to indicate that the anxiety had not resolved. In fact, the two problems were separate.

  • Unwanted behavior exacerbated by pain. In more straightforward cases, pain does not actually cause unwanted behavior, but instead worsens existing behavior problems. 

The relationship between pain and behavior is bidirectional; stress in the form of frustration, fear, or anxiety can cause a negative outlook that increases the perception of pain, while pain can itself increase stress. In fact, tensing from anxiety can directly exacerbate musculoskeletal pain. Who hasn’t snapped at a co-worker or spouse when dealing with a headache or other chronic pain?

These cases will often present with behavior that appears out of proportion to its cause. An animal’s responses may be excessively intense, or the dog may generalize more quickly and widely than otherwise expected. 

For example, a noise-sensitive dog may be startled by a loud noise in one location and then rapidly generalize to avoiding a wide area (perhaps even miles) around the original source. Such over-generalization may provide a hint that there’s more going on than simply a learned association with the original startle resulting in sound sensitivity. 

Impressive reduction of reactivity may be achieved in such cases with regular pain medication or other measures to reduce pain, like appropriate physiotherapy, even if the root of the anxiety remains.

  • Behaviors that may not be problematic to owners but that indicate pain. As we care for animals who cannot verbalize their inner states to us, it is incumbent on us to be alert to signs of pain, even when those signs do not present a problem for us.

Pay attention if your formally keen dog begins to balk!

It is easy for us to normalize behavior that is in fact not healthy, such as the labored breathing of a flat-faced dog, repetitive scratching of the neck which might suggest syringomyelia (a cyst within the spinal cord), head shaking indicative of an ear infection, or just an unusual sitting position in a dog who cannot hold his legs or back normally, perhaps secondary to obesity or a spinal malformation.

ADVOCATING FOR YOUR DOG

Veterinarians may not be alert to these multi-factorial problems. Indeed, Dr. Mills confides that despite being an established veterinary behavior expert and leading academic in the field, he still struggles to convince some vets (those in general practice and also specialists in relevant disciplines like orthopedics) about the significance of this issue. Presented with a behavioral issue, they may reach for a behavioral solution. While a veterinarian may consider pain, given a normal physical exam and other testing, he may not pursue a trial of analgesics or even more conservative pain management measures. Addressing pain is often seen as an avenue of last resort, when nothing else resolves the primary problem. Mills argues that pain should be addressed first, not last.

Moreover, if pain is a reasonable possibility but no cause is apparent on physical exam or testing, Mills typically recommends a trial course of analgesics. Many documented behavior cases have shown significant improvements or even resolution when treated with pain medication. 

If the first analgesia trial does not provide results, it is appropriate to try another type of analgesic with a different mechanism of action, in case the first was not right for that dog’s particular issue. Mills argues that the risk of side effects can be minimized and that the benefits of using pain medication will normally outweigh the risks, but it is important that any trial is done under veterinary supervision as over-the-counter medications for humans can be quite toxic to dogs.

TAKE THE LEAD

If you suspect your dog may have a behavioral issue rooted in or exacerbated by pain, advocate for her. Encourage your veterinarian to investigate possible causes of pain. Suggest trialing a course of analgesics, and keep a diary to report behavioral changes. 

If your veterinarian does not feel such an approach is appropriate in general, emphasize that your dog’s behavior is not normal for her. You may need to do some of your own detective work to present some possible causes to your veterinarian. Mills’ paper is open access, so you can give a copy to your veterinarian (see link below).

If you do find that you’re dealing with a case of pain-related behavior, encourage your veterinarian to contact Mills. His work is ongoing, and he hopes that he can bring veterinary behaviorists together with the wider veterinary community to build momentum on recognizing the importance of identifying and treating pain in behavior cases. He continues to collect case histories for this work.

Mills notes, “Dogs work incredibly hard to fit in, and if they don’t, we need to ask why.” As a society, we are lucky to have access to incredibly effective pain medication – don’t hesitate to consider its use under veterinary guidance when you think your dog might need it. 

Jessica Hekman, DVM, Ph.D., is a researcher at the Karlsson Lab at the Eli and Edythe L. Broad Institute of MIT and Harvard, studying the genetics of canine behavior. She also teaches online webinars and courses about canine genetics. Dr. Hekman lives with her husband and two dogs, with whom she participates in agility and canine parkour. On April 16, Dr. Hekman will be presenting a webinar on the use of probiotics in dogs for behavior change.

Wildlife Protection Dogs

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Some of the dogs trained and deployed by Working Dogs for Conservation are used to combat poaching of threatened and endangered species. One of the organization's dogs, Radar, a Belgian Malinois, is shown here tracking a suspected poacher in the Grumeti Game Reserve, adjacent to the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania. Photo by Richie Graham, courtesy of WD4C

We don’t usually think of dogs as the best friends of elephants, whales, hedgehogs, Chinese Moon Bears, bandicoots, or white-footed voles, but their incredible noses make a difference in the lives of these and other endangered species. Dogs are increasingly being put to work as valuable tools to both protect endangered species and combat invasive species that can destroy habitat for native plants and animals. We hope that when you read about some of the amazing things they can do, you will be inspired to put your dog’s nose to work – if not for conservation, at least just to give your dog an engaging activity that provides a great workout for body and brain. 

  •  Preventing elephant poaching. From 2010 through 2012, poachers killed an average of 33,630 elephants every year, resulting in more than 100,000 deaths across the continent, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature. However, thanks in part to U.S. Army software and sniffer dogs, Kenya has significantly reduced the number of animals killed in that country since 2013.

According to its Canines for Conservation Program, the African Wildlife Foundation combats illegal wildlife trade by placing ivory detection dogs and their handlers at key airports and seaports throughout the continent. By detecting tiny amounts of ivory or rhinoceros horn dust, officials can prevent traffickers from exporting wildlife contraband. The dogs are also trained to find guns, which, because they are difficult to obtain, are typically used by multiple poachers. In his first week of field work, Ruger, a mixed-breed dog working with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife in Zambia, found 13 guns, putting an estimated 150 poachers out of business.

Working Dogs for Conservation

Headquartered in Missoula, Montana, Working Dogs for Conservation calls itself the world’s leading conservation detection dog organization. Its website (WD4C.org) describes its mission: “Building upon techniques from narcotics detection, cadaver detection, and search and rescue, we pioneered ways to use dogs’ extraordinary sense of smell to protect wildlife and wild places. Our dogs can detect weeds before they break the surface, animals that live below ground, and aquatic organisms invisible to the human eye. Our co-founders were the first to train dogs to detect wide-ranging carnivores non-invasively, to uncover illegal snares in Africa, and to find invasive plants, insects, and fish.”

In 2013, the San Jose Mercury News interviewed Megan Parker, the organization’s Director of Research, about Pepin, her Belgian Malinois. Pepin was trained to track the poop or scat of endangered wildlife. “Scat is a gold mine of information,” Parker explained. From scat, scientists can extract DNA to check the sex of animals, discover family relationships, evaluate diets, test hormone levels, check for diseases, and map an animal’s home range. This information helps conservationists monitor endangered animals without having to trap, tag, or hunt them. Pepin tracked endangered fox kits in California and endangered gorillas in Cameroon (to name just a few) by their scat.

All of the organization’s dogs live with their handlers, train at least twice a week, and are rewarded with favorite toys. Most of them were adopted from shelters, where, typically, they displayed such high energy and hyper-focus on toys and play that they were found to be unadoptable by most members of the public. WD4C describes their candidates this way: “Great conservation detection dogs have an obsessive play drive and an unrelenting toy focus. Their never-quit attitude makes them nearly impossible to keep in a family home, but perfect members of the WD4C family.”

WD4C feels so strongly that the best candidates for conservation work are often found in shelters, that it created a program, Rescues 2the Rescue, through which they teach shelter staff how to identify dogs that would make ideal candidates for this work and to connect them with organizations that could adopt and employ them. WD4C says its next step is to create ways for working dog organizations to evaluate candidate dogs, “so that more of these talented, at-risk animals can be placed in successful, fulfilling careers.”

If you would like to support the work of WD4C, or are interested in developing a conservation dog project, WD4C can advise on performance, husbandry, training issues, troubleshooting, novel scents or techniques, or help with any other aspect of conservation dog work; the group supports others and the field. See WD4C.org for more information.

  • Detecting wildlife products. In India, German Shepherd Dogs are used to detect products such as tiger skins, ivory tusks, and the bones of endangered birds. They are also trained to locate injured animals, which helps authorities arrest poachers quickly. The program, which is jointly conducted by the World Wildlife Fund and a wildlife trade-monitoring network, plans to train more dogs to decrease animal poaching across the country. 
  • Rescuing Australia’s koalas. In Australia, where brush fires burning since September 2019 have ravaged the continent and killed more than a billion animals, dogs are saving koalas. Detection dogs are trained to identify koala fur, whose scent falls from trees in which koalas reside. When high winds, heat, and other conditions interfere, the dogs search for koala scat to identify where the animals have been so that human experts can scan the appropriate trees and find them. 

Some koala-sniffing dogs have become celebrities in their own right, such as Bear, a detection dog from the University of the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia. Bear and his handler made several television appearances explaining how the koalas Bear finds are given health checks, medical treatment as needed, and are released into the wild wearing GPS collars that allow researchers to keep track of them. Bear’s obsession is any toy that anyone will throw for him, so once he became familiar with the scent of koalas, his chase-the-toy rewards arrived whenever he successfully indicated a “find.” 

  • Helping bandicoot populations recover. Five years ago, the Werribee Zoo in Victoria, Australia, raised funds to train livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) to protect the endangered eastern barred bandicoot from predators. The bandicoots, which are small, shy, solitary, nocturnal marsupials, were extinct in the wild but could be found in public zoos across Australia and were being released in selected locations to re-establish their populations. Previous attempts to release bandicoots into the wild failed as the animals fell victim to foxes and cats. 

Maremma LGD dogs are a livestock breed native to Italy, and they can be trained to chase predators away while maintaining a respectful distance from the animals they protect. Before being introduced to bandicoots, Maremma LGDs successfully protected colonies of penguins.

  • Tracking whales by their poop. On the opposite side of the world, off the coast of San Juan Island, Washington, a black Lab-mix named Tucker leaned over the bow of the research vessel Moja and sniffed the air. His goal? Finding orca whale scat, which he could detect in open water up to a mile away and in the tiniest of pieces. 

Because scat can sink or disperse in less than half an hour, finding it isn’t easy. But it’s worth the effort because examining their fecal matter helps researchers study the 85 orcas, or killer whales, that live just north of Seattle. The orcas have been tracked for decades, and their declining numbers concern scientists. 

Unlike other detection dogs, Tucker couldn’t just approach his target and sit to signal a find. He had to guide the boat to the right area, then wait while researchers noticed and retrieved the material.

Today there are several scat-detection dogs in the Conservation Canine program at the University of Washington’s Center for Conservation Biology, but Tucker holds a special place in the program’s history. When he retired at age 13 in 2017, Tucker had helped find the majority of the 348 fecal samples analyzed in the orca research project.

Like the trainers of other scent-detecting dogs around the world, those who work with conservation dogs look for dogs with drive and focus. A Flat-Coated Retriever named Sadie was donated to the program because of her ball addiction. In frustration, her owner put Sadie’s ball on top of the refrigerator, and eight hours later Sadie was still sitting there, staring at the ball. “When the owner told me that story,” said biology professor Sam Wasser, Ph.D., director of the orca scat research project, “my immediate response was, ‘We’ll take her.’” 

Professor Wasser is the lead author of a study on the challenges facing today’s orcas. “A lot of whales are getting pregnant, but they are losing a large portion of their pregnancies,” he explained. “They don’t have enough food.” The orcas feed primarily on Chinook salmon, and with declines in the Chinook population, their food supply is shrinking. Dr. Wasser said that when Tucker retired, an Australian Cattle Dog named Jack took his place, but with overfished salmon and fewer whale sightings, Jack may not be as busy as Tucker was.

UW's Center for Conservation Biology

Tucker, a Labrador-mix, was one of the first (and most successful) conservation dogs to search for what scat on the open ocean. To see a video about hime made by The New York Times, go to tiny url.com/WEJ-Tucker-at-work

For decades, conservation biology has been a field of study at the University of Washington in Seattle, and since 1997, dogs have played a key role in the department’s research. That’s when Dr. Samuel Wasser, Director of the Center for Conservation Biology and Conservation Canines, began using dogs to help find threatened and endangered species. He and Sgt. Barbara Davenport, Master Canine Trainer with the Washington State Department of Corrections, adapted dog-training methods used to train narcotics- and arson-detecting dogs to help dogs locate the scat, or feces, of endangered animals around the world.

Scat is important in wildlife research because it offers genetic, physiological, toxicological, and dietary indicators of species abundance, distribution, resource use, physical health, and response to environmental pressures. Scat-detection dogs routinely out-perform traditional wildlife detection methods such as the use of remote cameras, radio-collaring, hair snags, and trapping. 

Scat-detection dogs are selected for their trainability, temperament, play drive, and strong object orientation. They are intensely focused and have an insatiable urge to play. Their obsessive personalities are incompatible with most families, so they are often given up for adoption, but their single-minded drive makes them perfect for conservation work. The Conservation Canines website says its dogs “are happy to work all day traversing plains, climbing up mountains, clambering over rocks and fallen trees, and trekking through snow, all with the expectation of reward – playing with their ball – after successfully locating wildlife scat. We rescue these dogs and offer them a satisfying career traveling the world to help save numerous other species.”

For information about contracting for the Center’s services, or to contribute to its Friends of Biology Fund, visit conservationbiology.uw.edu/conservation-canines.

  • Finding tiny animals for research. Laura Finley is a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service biologist involved with fishers, which belong to the weasel family. In northern California, researchers used to catch fishers, anesthetize them, punch holes in their ears to hold tags, and draw blood – and then repeatedly recapture them to monitor their population and area. 

There’s an easier way, as a University of Washington team demonstrated when they worked with two dogs for six weeks and found 700 fisher scat samples, more than the wildlife service could analyze. 

A more mysterious target is the white-footed vole, a rodent so difficult to find that it is almost mythical. Native to redwood forests in Northern California and parts of Oregon, the vole looks like a mouse but has a rounder head and stouter body. This small rodent is believed to spend part of its life in trees and another part in burrows in the ground. 

To help scientists find and study white-footed voles, researchers experimented with different detection methods, including pitfall traps and trail cameras. Detection dogs may be the most promising method. Wicket, a detection dog with Working Dogs for Conservation, tracked invasive snails in Hawaii, elephants in Africa, grizzly and black bears in Canada, rare Moon Bears in China, and invasive Chinese Bush Clover in Iowa. Researchers hope that Wicket and dogs like her will help them understand the voles’ place in the redwood ecosystem, in the food chain, and in a slowly changing habitat. 

Frehley, a Border Collie rescued by Conservation Canines from the Seattle Animal Shelter in 2005, learned to track New Mexico’s endangered Jemez Mountains salamander by studying its scat and part of a broken-off salamander tail. 

Hedgehogs are small mammals that thrive in hedges and underbrush, where they search for insects. Despite their porcupine-like appearance, hedgehogs have thousands of soft, smooth spines and are safe for humans to handle. In England, where hedgehog populations are in sharp decline, conservation organizations offer advice and assistance to those who have backyard hedgehogs, keep hedgehogs as pets, would like to encourage them in their yards, or want to help injured hedgehogs. 

In August 2019, the London Daily Mail reported that Henry, a three-year-old Springer Spaniel, had been trained to detect hidden hedgehogs as far as 250 yards away. Henry indicates his finds by sitting, and then his handler comes to investigate. Henry helps rescue hedgehogs threatened by land development projects. Because they live in dense undergrowth and long grass, hedgehogs are in danger wherever land is cleared. The hedgehog project, which will run until May 2020, is overseen by staff at Hartpury University in Gloucester. If the trial is successful, other dogs will be trained to aid hedgehog conservation. 

  • Detecting invasive species. Conservation dogs do more than track endangered species. They help identify and prevent the spread of invasive species, both plants and animals.

• According to Darren Ward, Ph,D., who studies ants at the University of Aukland, New Zealand, sniffer dogs have been trained to assist with eradication programs of non-native red fire ants in Australia and Taiwan, electric ants in Australia, and small colonies of Argentine ants in New Zealand. 

• In 2013, the conehead termite began to cause serious damage in Dania Beach, Florida. The Florida Department of Agriculture worried that it could spread throughout the state the way the Formosan termite has spread along the south Florida coast. Because this termite travels above ground, it can spread faster than other species while eluding standard pest-control methods. Connie, a mixed-breed dog adopted from a shelter, was selected for her youth, energy, and long legs, which help her work in tall grass. The nests Connie discovered were removed, packed in garbage bags, and burned or fumigated. So far, the termite is under control.

• In the northern United States and Canada, the zebra mussel has invaded lakes, rivers, and wetlands, clogging water intake pipes, cutting swimmers’ feet, disrupting the natural ecosystem, and harming native fish and wildlife. Minnesota’s Department of Natural Resources was one of the first to use sniffer dogs to find these invasive animals. Human inspectors searching boats being hauled into and out of Minnesota lakes often missed zebra mussels, allowing them to multiply and become even more of a nuisance. In 2013, the DNR added three mussel-detecting dogs to its team of more than 140 human inspectors.

“The dogs are going to be able to inspect watercraft and vessels a lot faster than humans,” said Travis Muyres, one of the conservation dog handlers. “A lot of the time they’re more successful because they’re using their noses instead of their eyes.”

In Canada, concern about zebra and quagga mussels has made inspections mandatory for any watercraft, from stand-up paddleboards to motorboats. Alberta’s inspection crews now include three mussel-sniffing dogs. 

• In Kosciuszko National Park in Australia, a pretty perenniel threatens agriculture and the environment. The orange hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum), native to Europe and a member of the daisy family, grows in remote alpine areas close to the ground with leaves in a flat circular pattern. Because of its attractive flowers, hawkweed was sold as an ornamental plant in New South Wales, but when it became naturalized and was recognized as a danger to native species, conservationists focused on eradicating the plant. To help human inspectors find and destroy the plants, two “botanist puppies” are on the job.

In 2016, weed management officer and dog handler Hillary Cherry explained the project to ABC News in Australia. “The dogs can differentiate one plant from another,” she said. “We were doing an evaluation the other day and running through dense scrub and one of the dogs turned quickly, ran back, put her nose underneath a big, thick patch of scrub, and found a patch of hawkweed seedlings. We never would have been able to find them. The dogs’ ability is so strong and powerful, it blows us away every time.” 

Montana resident CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books. See “Resources,” page 24, for book information.

Reducing Your Dog’s Stress

Counter-conditioning and desensitization is one of the best ways (but not the only way) to change your dog's association with a stressor. Remember to think crockpot, not microwave.

Clearly, one of the best ways to help your dog have a better quality of life is to reduce the amount of stress she experiences. The first step is to make as complete a list as possible of everything that is stressful for her. This includes mild stressors as well as the significant ones. Stressors stack up like building blocks to push your dog beyond her ability to cope with her environment; eliminating even the milder ones can help keep her below that threshold. Here are five strategies for reducing stress:

1. Classical counter-conditioning. This involves changing your dog’s association with the thing she finds aversive by associating it with something wonderful (such as delicious bits of roasted chicken). 

This is a slow process and you must be sure to keep the intensity of the stimulus below threshold – so the dog sees it (or hears it) and is aware of it but isn’t stressed. Your goal is to convince her that other dogs (children, men, sounds) are wonderful because they make bits of chicken appear. It is not about reinforcing a desired behavior; her calm behavior doesn’t make the chicken appear, the presence of the aversive stimulus does. (See “Fear Not,” December 2018.)

2. Operant conditioning. This involves reinforcing desirable behaviors. You can use this in a couple of different ways. If you teach your dog to adore a certain behavior (or behaviors) such as “Touch,” “Find It” (See Find It, March 2015) and “Walk Away,” (See How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away, August 2018) you can use her very positive association with those behaviors to put/keep her brain in a happy place even in the presence of a stressor. As with counter-conditioning, this works best if you can start with a low-intensity stimulus. 

Alternatively, you can use the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) procedure to teach your dog that calm, relaxed behavior will make the bad thing (aversive stimulus) go away. As she deliberately offers calm relaxed behavior, she will become calm and relaxed about the presence of the aversive, and no longer feel the need to make it go away. This is a complex procedure, and if you choose to use it you will likely need the assistance of a qualified force-free professional. 

Many cooperative-care procedures involve operant conditioning, including the Bucket Game (see “Training a Dog to Make Choices,” November 2016), a “chin rest” (see “How to Properly Examine Your Dog,” March 2014), and teaching her to file her own nails (see “Force-Free Nail Trimming Techniques for Your Dog,” August 2012). 

3. Management. It’s a perfectly acceptable way to reduce your dog’s stress. Medication is one way to manage stress, and I highly recommend it for dogs who need it – sooner rather than later. If your veterinarian is not knowledgeable about the medications commonly used for behavior issues, ask her to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist to determine the appropriate medication for your dog. (Most vets, well intentioned as they are, are not up to speed on the complexities of behavioral medicine.) 

Another way to manage is to simply prevent your dog’s exposure to the stressor. If she’s afraid of children, don’t allow children near her. (Obviously this only works long-term if you don’t have children and don’t have frequent child visitors.) In some cases, management is a perfectly acceptable long-term solution. In other cases, it’s a mandatory short-term solution while you work to implement other stress-reduction strategies.

4. Elimination. This means getting rid of the stressor altogether. Forever. Stop yelling at your dog. Throw the shock collar in the garbage. Teach her cooperative care so there is no need/excuse for forced restraint (and seek out force-free professionals so you don’t have to fight battles about not using force). Don’t allow inappropriate interactions from any friends, visitors, or family members.

5. Live with it. We all have stress in our lives and can’t make it all go away. Some stressors in your dog’s world may not be significant enough to cause problems, aren’t worth investments of time and energy into behavior modification, and are difficult to manage or eliminate. Maybe your dog is slightly stressed if your cat occasionally swats at her nose, but they are otherwise compatible. Perhaps your dog exits the kitchen if pans clank, but otherwise seems unaffected. While keeping in mind that every stressor moves her at least slightly closer to threshold, it’s okay to decide that she may just have to live with some of the lesser ones.