Canned dog foods represent only about 15% of the overall pet food market. Why don’t more people feed their dogs canned food? It has a lot going for it:
-Dogs love it! The high palatability of canned food is due to a number of factors, including a high inclusion of meat, high fat content (usually), high moisture content, and freshness (especially relative to dry food, which oxidizes over time). This makes it a great tool for stimulating the appetite of dogs who don’t want to eat, whether due to illness, the side effect of certain medications, anxiety, or any other reason. It can be a valuable tool to maintain the blood sugar level of sick puppies or senior dogs and to make bad-tasting medicines more palatable.
Our favorite use of canned food is for use in classic Kong toys and Toppl Treat toys (made by West Paw Design). We like to fill the toys with canned food and freeze them; we give them to our dogs when we want to distract them or keep them busy for a while, or just as a special treat. It can take a half-hour or more for them to lick and chew all the frozen food out of the toys.
See the full 2019 Approved Wet Dog Food List here
-The high moisture content of canned food is closer to a dog’s “natural” diet than dry food. Canned foods generally contain from about 76% to about 82% moisture. Uncooked meat contains anywhere from about 66% (raw chicken) to 73% (raw beef roast) moisture. In comparison, dry foods contain only about 10% moisture – and as they soak up digestive juices in the dog’s stomach, the individual kibbles expand to twice or more their size in the dog’s stomach.
We’re not aware of any studies proving that the relative dryness of kibble causes health problems for dogs, but there are definitely cases where a high-moisture food is beneficial (for dogs with any sort of urinary tract disease or who are prone to urinary tract infections, as the best examples).
-Canned foods generally contain fewer synthetic chemicals than dry foods. Because they are cooked in their anaerobic containers, canned foods don’t require any preservatives. They don’t usually contain any artificial colors. While some concern has been raised over certain ingredients used to thicken canned foods – ingredients like agar agar, guar gum, xanthan gum, and carrageenan – only the latter has much compelling evidence to suggest it could cause deleterious health effects (and manufacturers have, accordingly, moved away from using carrageenan).
In general, dry dog foods are far more likely to include synthetic additives than canned.

-Canned foods last longer on the shelf than dry foods. One of the things we always recommend that owners do when buying dry food is to check the date-code on the label, to make sure that the bag is relatively fresh. The fats in dry food oxidize (become rancid) over time, and the vitamins degrade.
Again, as long as the can is sealed, the fats can’t oxidize. Low-acid canned foods (most meat-based products fall into this category) stay “fresh” for up to five years. No pet food company will put a “best by” date that distant from its date of manufacture – they want the product to be sold and consumed well before that – but they could, and neither we nor our dogs would likely be able to tell the difference.
-Canned dog foods are less-processed than dry dog foods. Most (though not all) dry dog foods contain rendered meat meals. Rendering is a highly complex process, in which the animal products are essentially boiled, the fat separated and skimmed off to varying extents, and the remainder is dried to about 10% moisture and ground up. Meat meals can contain varying amounts of bone, and this will affect their quality and “ash” content (non-nutritional mineral residue, mostly from bone).
Meat meals are not usually found in canned foods; instead, mostly fresh/frozen meats are used. The meats are uncooked when they go into the can; while the ingredients that go into the food might be mildly heated during the mixing process, they are “cooked” in the canning process. (It’s called “canning” whether the cook – the bacterial kill or sterilization step – happens in a steel can, a plastic tub, or plastic pouch.)
So, while canned food might seem “processed” to us, relative to dry dog food, the ingredients are much more lightly handled and processed.
-Most canned foods contain more meat. If your goal is to feed your dog a cooked commercial diet that contains mostly meat, but is also complete and balanced, canned food is your best bet. But you have to read the ingredients list and other facts on the product label; some canned foods include grains and other carbohydrate sources. In our opinion, dry foods are a better and more economical source of carbohydrates. We would probably feed a canned food that contained grain, potatoes, or legumes if the canned food was the dog’s only source of food, perhaps due to severe dietary restrictions due to multiple food allergies. Otherwise, we’d look for a product that contained mostly meat, and feed it as part of the dog’s diet, with a dry food providing the balance.
What’s the Catch?
Canned foods have a couple of strikes against them, too:
-High cost. I don’t care how much you love your dog, or how much money you make; the cost of canned foods tends to be prohibitive. This is, in part, due to the generally higher quality of the meats used in the foods, and partly due to the cost of shipping the heavy product. Unless you are feeding very tiny dogs, it’s hard to imagine being able to feed good-quality canned food as an exclusive diet.
-High fat levels. Canned foods tend to contain higher fat levels than dry foods – so much so, that many products may be downright dangerous to feed to dogs who have a tendency to develop pancreatitis.
This is another time when you really need to read the label: Look for the guaranteed analysis. Note the amount of fat and moisture. Now, convert the “as fed” fat content of the food (the amount that’s on the guaranteed analysis) to the amount of fat on a “dry matter” (DM) basis (see our sidebar for instructions on how to do this). This is important, because if you don’t understand how a canned food that contains 9% of fat as fed actually contains 40% fat on a dry matter basis, you could harm your fat-sensitive dog with just one meal.
Before you switch your dog from a dry food to a canned one, or begin to add a significant amount of canned food to his diet, you should also check the amount of fat in the dry food you are feeding your dog. Convert that amount to a DM percentage, too, so you are comparing apples to apples, so to speak.
See the full 2019 Approved Wet Dog Food List here
Selecting Appropriate Foods for your Dog
Onboard and ready to go shopping for food? Let’s talk about how we’d go about the task.
Before you hop in the car or fire up your computer browser (if you’re planning to shop online), you should have a few parameters in mind, having to do with your dog’s individual needs.
-Appropriate calorically. Are you looking for a product that will be your dog’s main diet? If so, it’s critical that the food you choose is calorically appropriate for your dog’s age and activity level. If you choose an excessively high-fat (high-calorie) food, you risk making your dog gain too much weight – a very unhealthy proposition. (Fat dogs tend to have more health problems as they age, including mobility issues – and they don’t live as long as leaner dogs. If you really love your dog, don’t let him get fat!) Yes, it’s possible to just cut back the amount you feed him, but with a very high-fat food, in order to feed him an appropriate number of calories, you may have to reduce his portion size so much that he’s not actually getting enough of the vitamins and minerals he needs. Plus, he’s probably hungry all the time! If you plan to feed him the canned food as a sole diet, it would be wise to choose a food that has more moderate fat levels.
Because canned foods are so expensive, many of us use them, instead, to simply augment a diet that includes dry dog food and/or home-prepared fresh food.
Unless you have experience and guidance with home-prepared diets, we’d recommend that unbalanced additions of fresh foods make up no more than about 25% of what you feed daily. Few people who augment their dogs’ diets with fresh food are aware of a dog’s mineral needs, and end up feeding a diet that is far too low in calcium. While we have nothing against owners feeding “human foods” to their dogs, we encourage them to keep the additions as a quarter or less of the dog’s daily diet – unless they know that the foods they are adding are providing appropriate amounts of calcium.
In contrast, all “complete and balanced” canned foods can be added in whatever percentage one likes to a diet that otherwise consists of “complete and balanced” dry food, as long as the foods are calorically appropriate for the dog’s body condition and activity level.

-Your dog’s tolerance. When shopping for a dog who has food allergies or is intolerant of certain food ingredients, you have to read the ingredient portion of the label to make sure the food doesn’t contain the ingredients that disagree with your dog. If your dog is allergic to or intolerant of chicken, for example, it’s not enough to look for a food with “beef” in the name; the food may well contain chicken, too. It’s common for pet food manufacturers to use several animal protein sources in a product whose name may include only one of those animals.
Also, not to belabor this point too much, but if you have a dog with a serious food allergy or who is seriously intolerant of certain ingredients, you should probably check the ingredients list every single time you buy a food that seems to work for her. Manufacturers do tinker with their formulas, and many a dog owner has been in despair at some point about their dog’s new outbreak, only to discover the maker has changed the formula of the food that had been proven to be safe for the dog in the past. Been there, done that!
-Your dog’s “life stage.” One last thing to check on the label that relates specifically to your dog: the nutritional adequacy statement, a.k.a. the “AAFCO statement.” AAFCO stands for the Association of American Feed Control Officials. This is the organization that developed the standards the industry uses to determine what constitutes “complete and balanced” nutrition for dogs (and cats). Every pet food label has a statement on it somewhere that references AAFCO, and whether the food is meant for “intermittent and supplemental feeding only” – meaning it’s not complete and balanced – or whether it provides complete and balanced nutrition for “adult maintenance” only, or whether it can be fed to dogs in “all life stages.”
“All life stages” includes puppies, pregnant or lactating mothers, adults, and seniors. If the AAFCO statement says the food is complete and balanced for “growth and reproduction,” it has met the same standard as “all life stages.”
If you are feeding a puppy, you do not want a food with a nutritional adequacy statement that says the food is for “adult maintenance” – and a surprising number of canned foods are labeled exactly that, so check the statement. (You might need a magnifying glass; we routinely use the zoom feature on our mobile phone camera for this task!) Foods that are formulated for puppies – this includes foods formulated for dogs of all life stages – contain higher levels of protein, fat, calcium, and phosphorus than foods formulated for adult maintenance only.
-Large-breed puppies. One last thing, important for owners of large breed puppies to note: The AAFCO statement might say the food is formulated for growth or dogs of all life stages “including growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult)” or “except for growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult).” You need to select a food that has the statement that’s appropriate for your puppy.

The ideal level of calcium for large- and giant-breed puppies is lower than the ideal level of calcium for smaller puppies. Too much calcium can cause the bones of large-breed puppies (defined by AAFCO as those who are likely to mature at more than 70 pounds) to grow too quickly. Improper calcium levels during the growth phase of their lives can predispose large-breed pups to arthritis, hip and elbow dysplasia, and other kinds of joint and bone problems as adults. So, again, if you have a large-breed puppy, it’s critically important that you find the AAFCO statement and make sure the food you are considering is appropriately formulated for your dog.

WDJ’s Canned Food Selection Criteria
So far, we’ve mentioned only the things you need to check to make sure a prospective food is right for your budget and your individual dog. Let’s turn our attention to the things you need to scrutinize to make sure the food contains better-quality ingredients and doesn’t contain worrisome or low-quality ingredients: WDJ’s basic dog-food selection criteria.
See the full 2019 Approved Wet Dog Food List here
The ingredients in your dog’s food, just like the ingredients in your own food, must be listed on the label in descending order by weight; in other words, by weight, there is more of the first ingredient on the label than anything else in the food. It may surprise you to see broth or “water sufficient for processing” first or second on the ingredients label of canned foods. In order to mix the food and pour it into cans, the manufacturers really do have to start with big vats of water; they aren’t trying to rip you off!

The following are the things we consider as requirements for foods we feed our dogs – hallmarks of quality:
- A whole, named animal protein in one of the first two positions on the ingredients list. “Whole” means no by-products. “Named” means a specific animal species – chicken, beef, pork, lamb – as opposed to “meat” or “poultry.”
- Look for products with the highest possible inclusion of top-quality animal proteins (as far as one can tell by their presence close to the beginning of the ingredients list). We prefer animal-sourced proteins to plant proteins, especially in a canned food.
- If a separate fat source is present, it must be named (“chicken fat” rather than “animal fat”). We prefer animal sources of fats to plant-sourced fats.
- If vegetables, grains, or other carb sources are used, we prefer to see them whole, rather than by-products (for example, potatoes rather than potato starch).
Disqualifiers
We avoid canned dog foods that contain the following:
- Unnamed animal protein or fat sources, such as “meat,” “poultry,” or “animal fat.”
- Meat by-products or poultry by-products.
- Animal plasma (blood) as a protein source.
- Wheat gluten, which may be used as a cheap source of plant protein, a thickener, and/or a binder, holding together artificially formed “chunks” of ground meat.
- Sugar, molasses, dextrose, or other sweeteners.
- Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
Your Challenge
Be aware that there is no food on the face of the planet that is “best” for all dogs. All dogs have different needs. All owners have different needs! We all own different numbers of variously sized dogs, and we have different family priorities, responsibilities, and budgets. The most important attribute of a food should be its ability to nourish your dog without causing illness or discomfort, at a price you can afford.

We’ve known purebred, champion show dogs who have been fed what we would consider low-quality foods for their entire lives with nary a sign of a problem. We’ve also known former street dogs who required the cleanest, highest-quality diet imaginable in order to keep from breaking out in hives or with diarrhea. Most dogs are somewhere in between; you have to try different foods to see what agrees with your dog and budget.
We will emphasize budget again, because, as we have said before, canned foods are expensive! It’s one thing to buy $4 cans of food when you are feeding one five-pound dog (who might eat one can for days), and another thing entirely if you, like us, are feeding two active 70-pound athletes (who would require at least two cans a day each, if that’s all they were fed).
But, unless you have a dog with super special needs, you don’t need to buy the most expensive food. Just look for products that agree with your dog (appropriate calorie level, no ingredients that bother him, correct “life stage” formulation/nutrient levels) and that suit your budget.
You may end up with a product that hits all those notes, but contains chicken by-products instead of a whole named meat – that’s fine.
But what if the product you would like to feed your dog contains no whole meats, only chicken by-products, “meat by-products,” and pea protein? Oy, that’s going a bit too far. A better-quality dry food would probably be a more economical and nutritious choice than a low-quality wet food for most dogs.
Here is a list of companies that make canned foods that meet our selection criteria. Keep in mind that any manufacturer may make a product or two that does not meet our selection criteria. If you compare the ingredients with our list of criteria, you will easily identify the few products that contain some wheat gluten or pork plasma. But if they meet the criteria above, they fit your budget, and suit your dog, they have our blessing.
SIDEBAR: Canned Food Is Not Bad for Dogs’ Teeth
SIDEBAR: How to Compare Nutrient Levels in Canned Dog Foods with Dry Foods