English bulldog checking out a pumpkin. Photo: GoDogPhoto/Getty Images
Indulging in everything from pumpkin beers to lattes has become a rite of fall for us humans, but your dog can also get in on the seasonal fun. Pumpkin is likely already in the food your pet eats, according to FDA reports and a reading of these top-notch freeze-dried food labels, and boasts some health benefits as well. Read on to make sure you get the right kind of pumpkin.
It Can Help Digestive Issues
Stomach aches happen to the best of us (and not just after overdoing it on Thanksgiving), and dogs aren’t immune. Pumpkin can help with digestive issues.
Whole Dog Journal Founding Editor Nancy Kerns keeps plain canned pumpkin on hand at all times. She’s sworn by it since her dog, Woody, ingested too much sand on a beach trip. After a few days of eating pumpkin, he was on the mend. Whole Dog Journal contributor Mary Straus also uses pumpkin for upset stomachs and offers these tips and recipes.
Pumpkin also acts as a binder and firms up loose stools in dogs — and it’s palatable to boot. Whole Dog Journal contributor Shari Mann suggests using plain canned pumpkin to make liver-pumpkin cookies (since liver is known to cause loose stools, adding pumpkin is essential).
Dog Siberian Husky eating a pumpkin. Photo: Sergeeva/Getty Images
Hold the Spice
Sugar and spice aren’t too nice for pups. Though pumpkin pie may be your favorite Thanksgiving dessert, avoid canned pumpkin that has added sugar or spices. Plain canned pumpkin is the stuff you want. You can sometimes find it sold in pet supply stores and labeled for dogs (and about twice the price), but it’s absolutely the same stuff you can buy in supermarkets. Canned pumpkin is highly palatable; most dogs will eat it mixed into their kibble or other food, or lick it right off a spoon. But if you want to make the treat a little more festive, try these mini-pumpkin pies made with plain pumpkin.
September is when we editors are expected to write “back to school” pieces. Dog magazine editors tweak the usual parenting advice about helping kids adjust to school hours, offering tips on how to help our dogs adjust to the autumn absence of kids (at least during the day). This year, of course, all forms of “usual” are useless. This helps explain why the first article in this issue discusses how to increase our dog’s (and our own) enjoyment of our own back, side, and/or front yards; it doesn’t look like many of us are taking our dogs many places for a while.
Speaking of changing with the times, our next article, written by our Training Editor Pat Miller, discusses a few of the significant ways that we have changed our minds about dog training and dog gear over the past 23 years that WDJ has been in existence. Change is a good thing! If you think all your methods and gear are perfect, you’ve stopped learning – and that’s a shame. We think we’ve found a few ways to improve on older technology.
Another article in this issue is also custom-tailored for the times. North Carolina veterinarian and frequent contributor Dr. Catherine Ashe has written a brief but informative piece about canine viruses. Truthfully, reading about the viruses that can affect dogs helped me understand some bits of information I’ve been curious about regarding the virus that’s so much in the news. (I think you know the one.)
There’s a quite long piece at the back of this issue. A new contributor to WDJ, Joanne Osburn, has written about stem cell therapy for dogs. Not only that, she took photos of almost every step in the process of harvesting a dog’s fat (that’s where the stem cells come from), extracting and enriching the stem cells, and preparing them for reintroducing them to the same dog in a powerful new form. How did she manage to take all those photos? She’s a lab technician in a veterinary clinic that uses this technology to help dogs heal after surgeries, regain mobility after years of pain and inactivity due to arthritis, and other medical marvels. As the owner of a rapidly stiffening senior dog who is nearly 13 years old, I am highly interested in this new therapy. It’s pricey, but I’d pay nearly any price to see Otto romp and play for as many years as he can, especially if it means we can delay the introduction of daily medications, which always seem to have some side effect when administered over the long term.
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I was really hoping to not write this post this year. But here we go again: There are wildfires in my neighborhood, and in the neighborhoods of several friends up and down California, so once again I’m here to stay: Folks, everyone has to have a plan for emergencies, and have a “go bag” for themselves and their pets ready.
If you have spent your whole life on the East Coast or the central states, you just can’t understand how dry summers in California are. We generally get zero rain from April or May to October or November – that’s normal for us. And summer thunder and lightning is not normal here. So it was highly unusual for us to experience a summer thunderstorm on late Sunday night and in the wee hours of Monday morning, and upsetting to hear reports of lightning strikes all over the northern half of the state. Though this strange storm brought a tiny bit of rain, we couldn’t appreciate that because of the more than 20 fires that were started by the lightning – one of which was in Lake Oroville State Park, about six miles from my home.
Lightning Is a Serious Fire Threat In California
I was alerted to the thunder and lightning by my senior dog, Otto, who woke me up at about 1 am by pacing in my bedroom and panting loudly. I hadn’t heard any thunder yet; I thought maybe he had an upset tummy and had to go outside, so I sleepily walked with him to the back door, only to have him balk at the threshold and look at me wild-eyed, panting. “Are you crazy?” he seemed to ask. “I’m not going out there!” As we stood there, looking at each other, a lightning bolt lit up the sky and I finally understood. I gave him a Trazodone tablet, left over from his Independence Day medication, and slept on the couch in the living room so I could comfort him and so that his pacing and panting (until the Trazodone took hold) wouldn’t wake my husband.
Because lightning in the summer almost always means fires in this part of the country, first thing in the morning, I checked the news and, sure enough, there were reports of quite a few fires.
One was close to my sister-in-law and niece, an hour away. Another was even closer to both my sister’s house and mine! As the day wore on, the wind picked up, the fires grew, and some evacuations were ordered. My phone buzzed with calls and texts from a friend who is hosting evacuees and needed to borrow bedding; a friend whose elderly relatives (and one dog) live in the evacuation zone closest to me and was wondering what to tell them; my sister and brother-in-law (and three dogs), who live in a neighborhood that is in the path of the next zone to be evacuated, and my sister-in-law, asking if she (and my niece and their little dog) could evacuate to my house from HER local fire.
I also received alerts from my local animal rescue group, asking for volunteers to staff the emergency shelter that the group operates for holding animals for families who need to evacuate and can’t keep their pets with them.
Fortunately, two years after the tragic Camp Fire, there are plenty of other trained volunteers who will step up to help take care of animals from families who had to evacuate the fire zone and couldn’t bring their animals with them.
In the middle of all this, I have to leave in a few hours to drive my grandson to the airport; he’s headed back to the East Coast after a fun summer here with my husband and me. He’s disappointed that he’s leaving in the middle of all this drama and excitement, and argued that I should go volunteer with the animal rescue group anyway – so he could come along to see what that’s like. He was bummed when I said that getting him to the airport to go home was more important than volunteering at this moment (he cheered up immensely when my evacuated niece arrived here, so he had someone to play with on his last night in California).
Have an emergency plan ready before you need it
But I will be leaving my husband behind with our “go bags” packed – complete with important paperwork (passports and birth certificates, etc. for us, medical records for the dogs), medication (for Otto), food (Clif bars for emergency energy, dog food for the dogs), extra cell phone chargers and batteries, and a few jugs of water (always helpful). We have a plan already in place for anything that might happen, including where to meet (if the fires exploded and I couldn’t even come home after the trip to the airport).
Before all the lightning struck, emergency preparation had been on my mind; I had been reading about the devastating wind storm in Iowa and the fires in southern California. No matter where you live, you have to be ready for any sort of natural disaster that might possibly befall you and your family, human and nonhuman.
Take a few minutes today and look through your “go bag” or action plan. Do you have nonperishable food for at least a few days? Up-to-date contact information on your dogs (including up-to-date information on file with the microchip registries for your pets’ microchips)? The more you discuss the plan with your family, neighbors, and friends, the better prepared you will be to take in strays or be evacuated yourself. Here are two of the best resources available about emergency preparedness. Don’t just read them; take action!
When dogs' physical appearance and conformation is paramount in a breeding program, over generations, their health may begin to decline.
To anyone who has been involved in shelter or rescue work, the idea of intentionally breeding mixed-breed dogs, or even unregistered purebred dogs, seems a bit bananas. There are too many homeless dogs! What the heck?
But there is a group of well-respected people with a variety of dog-related professions who are promoting just that: the purposeful breeding of dogs without breed registration, and with a purpose that is not producing dogs with a specified morphology, that is, dogs who look a certain way or meet all the physical characteristics of a breed standard.
Why, you might ask?
The Functional Dog Collaborative
The group’s name, the Functional Dog Collaborative, offers the first clue. This group is trying to promote the breeding of dogs who are, above all, functional in terms of health, both physically and behaviorally. The group states on its website that when those health goals are in conflict with a breed standard or closed studbooks, the functional goals are considered more important. That puts the group at cross purposes with those who maintain that breed “purity” is paramount, as well as those who are breeding animals with an appearance that is fashionable, but unhealthy (think flat-faced dogs who can’t breathe, droopy-skinned dogs whose eyes require surgery to avoid painful interference with their lashes, breeds with long backs who often develop painful spinal conditions, etc., etc.).
The group is in the process of developing information resources that will help interested breeders, including breeders of both purebred and crossbred dogs, learn how to produce dogs who are physically healthier (more able to breathe freely, move without pain, reproduce and give birth without veterinary interventions, and with less inherited disease and longer lifespans), as well as behaviorally healthier (dogs with minimal fear of novel humans and other dogs and animals, maximal ability to cope with change of environment and conditions, minimal behavioral pathologies such as separation anxiety or compulsive disorders, and minimal unchanneled aggression).
Ultimately, the group hopes to provide a place to deposit and search health records, so that breeders can access them for help with making wise breeding decisions. In addition to providing a podcast with interviews with experts on canine breeding and genetics (the Functional Breeding Podcast), the group is working to build educational resources that will help breeders produce dogs meeting the descriptions of health above. They hope soon to provide a curriculum for breeder education. Finally, it’s their hope to provide a “supportive and open community” for breeders with these shared goals, “through both social media and face to face opportunities, for mentorship, friendship, and social support.” (The project has an active Facebook group, “Functional Breeding,” that currently does just that.)
We can do better…
The project was originally the brainchild of Jessica Hekman, DVM, PhD, who is a researcher at the Karlsson Lab at the Eli and Edythe L. Broad Institute of MIT and Harvard, studying the genetics of canine behavior. Dr. Hekman also teaches online webinars and courses about canine genetics. (She has also written articles for WDJ, most recently, “Behavioral Probiotics” in the August issue.) I asked Dr. Hekman about her original impetus for starting the organization. She responded, “I think a lot of us have known for a while that we could do a better job of breeding dogs to be healthy pets and working partners. The reasons we don’t aren’t scientific, they’re social. Why do we maintain breeds with a heavy burden of genetically mediated disease? Why do we insist that people get pets from breeders who are breeding for the conformation ring, and the pets are the second best dogs? Why do we castigate pet owners who want doodles? Because that is part of the traditional way of looking at breeding dogs. But it doesn’t have to be that way. If it were a different way, what would it look like? Can we just do it? I think we can just do it.”
I think the group is onto something. I’d only add that when we urge people to buy puppies or dogs only from a “responsible breeder,” that these goals of health are the most important part of how “responsible” is defined.
Every registry for purebred dogs maintains a description of the ideal representative of that breed, a “breed standard.” In many of these standards, only the dog’s physical conformation (how it’s built) and its movement is described. In some others, the dog’s demeanor or personality traits are also described, to some extent. Breeds whose origins are performance-based (hunting dogs, herding dogs, etc.) rarely mention the ability to do that work in their breed standards. And if health is mentioned in ANY breed standard, I’d like to know about it!
When looks come first, health starts to suffer
One thing is for certain: When dogs are bred to look a specific way – to be a predictable size or color, or with a certain kind of coat – often, traits that are more important (to me and many other dog lovers) fall by the wayside. The lovely, friendly Golden Retriever starts to become dog-aggressive and tends to die young of cancer. The brave, biddable Doberman becomes neurotic and dies of dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) at 5 to 7 years of age. The amiable Bulldog can’t be taken for walks, lest he keel over from heatstroke on an 80-degree day. In my view, I don’t care how many Championships a puppy’s parents and previous ancestors earned, I’d look for breeders who select their breeding stock for health and longevity, perhaps bucking the breed standards or current trends that are awarded ribbons in the show ring.
Many of us have owned a unique dog we wish we could clone: Sound of mind and body, friendly to all, easy to communicate with, a terrific learning partner, confident and game. Some of these dogs may have been purebred; some may have been the result of a purposeful mix; some may have been a shelter mutt or a roadside dog that found its way into our families and hearts. Often, these dogs resulted by chance – they were happy accidents resulting from an intentional breeding focused on their morphology, or from a strictly profit-oriented breeder, or a chance breeding far from human supervision. What if dogs with these traits were intentionally produced? I don’t care what the results looked like; I just know there would be far fewer dogs in shelters as a result.
The group is built on volunteer effort and is very much community-driven. Want to help? There are lots of ways to get involved. Check out the group’s website for more information: https://functionalbreeding.org/
pit bull dog in a life jacket in a red canoe on a calm lake in Colorado in fall scenery, recreation with your pet concept (pit bull dog in a life jacket in a red canoe on a calm lake in Colorado in fall scenery, recreation with your pet concept, ASC
Summer is in full swing, and with the hot weather comes swimming and boating – activities often mutually enjoyed by dogs and humans. Despite the swimming prowess of many canines, dogs can drown; it is estimated that thousands of dogs die in the water every year.
Dogs drown for many reasons. Some breeds, especially brachycephalics like Bulldogs and Boston Terriers, are physically maladapted to swimming. Many of them, even if they try to swim, simply sink like rocks to the bottom of a pool. Even competent canine swimmers tire quickly, and if they fall into a swimming pool unsupervised, may be unable to find the steps that allow them to climb out. In open waters dogs also tire quickly. A boating accident, or lack of human attentiveness, can put a dog at high risk for drowning.
Keep your dog safe in the water
Take the time to find out if your dog can swim. Maybe give him swimming lessons! Teach him how to locate and use a pool ramp to reduce his risk of drowning. To prevent accidental fall-in drowning tragedies, provide close adult supervision and/or a solid fence around the pool with no dog-access unless accompanied by a responsible human. Always have your dog wear a flotation device if he’s hanging out around the pool, actually playing in the wet stuff, or joining you on boat rides.
Canine life vests come in a variety of styles, ranging in price from $15 to as much as $80. Quality is important, so Google “dog, life jacket” and read all the information for the various brands before buying, rather than just opting for “cheap.” You don’t want buckles to fail when you are counting on the vest to save your dog’s life. Look for one with a sturdy handle on the back, so you can lift him out of the water when you need to save him!
You’ve done your research, purchased the life jacket – now it’s time to toss it over your dog’s head and go for a test swim, right? Wait a minute… slow down!!
You want your dog to love his vest. Even if he’s a resilient soul who tolerates just about anything, take time to make sure he isn’t spooked by the bulky thing going over his head, with all the straps and buckles that have to be adjusted and snapped closed. Here’s how to ensure your dog loves his swimming gear:
1. Fit the vest carefully before even approaching your dog. There will still be some adjustments needed, but minimize them.
2. Show him the vest. While he’s looking at it, feed him a high-value treat. (Boiled or baked chicken is good!)
3. Hide the vest, pause, then present it again, and feed chicken.
4. Repeat several times until the appearance of the vest causes your dog to get happy and look for the chicken.
5. Now (super-important!) hold up the vest by the handle with the straps unbuckled and invite him (with a treat) to walk under it. He’s choosing to put it on himself, rather than you putting it on him. If this part worries him, go slow – one step at a time – until he’s happy to have the vest resting on his back. (Or – leave the chest strap buckled and invite your dog to step forward and put his head through the opening. Do not just plop it over his head – be sure he volunteers to move through the opening.)
6. Now take some time to pair the sound of the buckles with chicken, so he also thinks that “snap!” equals chicken!
7. When he’s comfortable putting himself into the vest and hearing the “snap!” sound, you can buckle him in. Have someone feed high-value treats while you snap the buckles closed, or use Lickimats to keep him happily occupied with peanut butter, squeeze cheese or yogurt mashed into the grooves. (See Play With Your Food, April 2019). Alternatively, you can smear gooey foods on your refrigerator door or vinyl floor while you buckle.
8. At first, keep the vest on for short periods – 10 to 15 seconds. Gradually increase the length of time he wears the vest, until it’s clear he isn’t bothered by it.
9. Now you’re ready for the water! Again, take it slow. Even if your dog is an accomplished swimmer, it may feel strange to him to be more buoyant. Introduce him slowly to the water and convince him that swimming with a life jacket is fun.
This might seem like a lot of effort just to get your dog to wear a life vest. It will all be well worth it someday when it saves his life.
We often read discussions of whether dogs experience guilt; we’ve published a few, too. But here is a twist I don’t think I’ve ever seen discussed: A dog owner’s guilt over something related to their dog ownership.
Many of us who are old enough to have owned dogs before the advent of positive-reinforcement-based dog training – yes, this was before cell phones and when candy bars cost just a quarter – probably feel some amount of guilt and/or shame about how they trained dogs in their youth. There is a term that describes us – “crossover trainers” – those of us who started training dogs with choke chains and collar “pops.” This was the norm for anyone who wanted a well-trained dog who would walk on a loose leash, once upon a time. (It’s hard to fathom how different and wonderful it must be for trainers and owners who are, say, 30 years old or younger, who came of age in the dog world when positive reinforcement was the norm.)
Things I feel guilty about
Me and Tavi in 1977
I think back to the dog I was allowed to keep for my very own, starting when I was about 13 years old, and who lived with me into my mid-twenties. He was a half-Kelpie, part-hound-mix, dog-aggressive and, it seemed to me then, hard-headed. Frustrated by his many attacks on other dogs and not knowing anyone who knew any better than me, I physically punished him for his many transgressions. I know now that all of that punishment only hardened his negative feelings about other dogs – and far from correcting the issue, it made his hatred of other dogs worse. This was a lifelong conflict between us, and I never found a better way to deal with the behavior. Forgive me, Tavi, I honestly didn’t know any better.
My heaviest burden of guilt has to do with the death of little Tito, a Chihuahua-mix who was sort of dumped on my husband and me by his niece some years back. I didn’t really want another dog at the time, and Tito didn’t really want new owners, either. It took us all a long time to get to know each other; he was a prickly little tough guy. He didn’t like to be picked up, he was a ferocious resource-guarder, and he generally just kept his own council. Over time, though, we got used to and accepted his tough-guy independence and we all actually grew quite fond of each other.
A couple years after we had finally accepted that Tito was a member of our family, he was mortally wounded by a dog I was fostering. It took me nearly a year to process and understand what happened and to write about it; as penance for the ignorance that led to Tito’s death, I still tell the story to anyone I know who is considering fostering an aggressive dog. It’s not that dogs who display aggression can’t be rehabilitated – they certainly can. But people need to know what they are getting into, and need to protect their own families (human and canine) from getting hurt in the process. I didn’t protect Tito, and he paid for my ignorance with his life. The dog who attacked him was euthanized following the event – and this death, too, is on my hands. I am not sure when or if I can, or should, forgive myself for these deaths.
Accidents can happen to the best of us
I know two different people who accidentally backed their cars over (and killed) their own dogs, each of whom was sleeping in the driveway. Two! Both of those people were understandably wracked with guilt about these horrible accidents.
I have another friend who will never forgive herself for letting her dog off-leash to chase some birds, who were covering a huge grassy playing field at a college. But the dog chased and chased and wouldn’t come back, and eventually chased them across a busy street and was hit by a car. Despite almost immediate emergency veterinary care, he died at a veterinarian’s office less than an hour later. My friend is almost pathologically careful about letting her current dog off-leash, which is good, but I’m sorry that she still suffers about her former mistake.
Dog ownership is a huge responsibility; their lives and health are fully in our hands. Guilt over the things we’ve done wrong, I guess, helps keep us alert to the possibility that we might make other mistakes, that we have to be more careful with these precious lives. And, as the saying goes, when we know better, we can do better. Sometimes I just wish learning some of these lessons wasn’t so hard.
What do you feel guilty about? Maybe others can learn from your mistakes.
The shape, size gaits, temperament, and abilities of many breeds have been radically altered over time to meet current demand for certain fashions. Breeders who produce dogs that display extreme deviations from historic breed standards may experience a bump in popularity and thus profitability, but often, the dogs suffer. The inbreeding practices that quickly produce novel or extreme traits also quickly cultivate inherited health problems.
Wanna see a fight? Start a debate on social media about what’s best: adopting a dog or puppy from a shelter or rescue group or buying from a responsible breeder. If the sparks don’t fly quickly enough, throw some gas on the flames by supporting just one of those options – either one! – in very strong terms. That ought to do it.
In recent years, the “rescue dog” people have seemingly won the moral high ground in this argument, with their position helpfully shortened to a bumper sticker-friendly three words: “Adopt, Don’t Shop!” In fact, this position has become so politically correct that folks who do want to buy a purebred pup (or a “designer mix”) are often tight-lipped when they discreetly buy a puppy.
In my view, folks are fighting about the wrong thing altogether. Honestly, I don’t care whether you buy your puppy from a breeder or pay an “adoption” fee from a rescue or shelter. Because the truly most important thing is to make sure that the source is ethical and responsible and that they do far more than just meet the minimum standards of care for all the dogs in their custody.
Looking to add a new dog to your family? Be aware that there are many immoral and unscrupulous breeders, shelters, and rescue groups out there. One good way to reduce the number of these bad actors is to procure your dog or puppy from only a responsible, conscientious, and humane source, whether that’s a breeder, shelter, or rescue organization. Let’s look at how to identify them.
TRAITS OF RESPONSIBLE, ETHICAL BREEDERS
Yes, there is such a thing as a responsible, ethical breeder – thank goodness! Although many of the 30 or so dogs I’ve owned in my lifetime were rescued mixed-breeds, I’ve also owned a number of purebred dogs, and I appreciate a healthy, well-socialized representative of a pure breed of dog as much as anyone.
Here’s what I would look for in a responsible breeder. A responsible breeder will:
* Plan ahead and plan carefully. Only dogs who have been health-tested and cleared for all the identifiable, heritable genetic diseases common in that breed will be included in the breeding program of a responsible breeder. (For more about what those conditions may include, see the Humane Society Veterinary Medical Association’s “Guide to Congenital and Heritable Disorders” at tinyurl.com/WDJ-heritable-disorders.) Good breeders also will provide verification of the sire’s and dam’s testing clearances to puppy buyers.
* Breed only dogs who are physically and behaviorally sound. Pay at least as much attention to the temperament of the dogs being bred as their genetics, movement, and structure. Far too many breeders overlook behavioral unsoundness in exchange for breed type and structure. Behavior is always a combination of genetics and environment.
* Breed in a limited fashion. Good breeders produce only as many puppies as they know they can place (have homes lined up in advance). They also limit the frequency with which any individual female dog is bred (not before the age of 2, not after the age of 5 to 8 years, and no more than one litter per year, maximum.
Note that the American Kennel Club will register puppies from dams who are as young as 8 months old to as much as 12 years old! In my opinion, that’s unconscionable.
* Avoid the lure of extremes. There are countless examples today:
• Brachycephalic (short-nosed) dog breeds (especially Pugs, Boston Terriers, Bulldogs, and French Bulldogs). In our opinion, the progression of these breeds to the point they can barely breathe and some can barely walk is criminal.
• German Shepherd Dogs – that is, the show-ring-favored slope-backed models. These dogs have significant problems with joint and cartilage distress, hip dysplasia, and osteoarthritis.
• Breeds with exaggerated loose skin (“wrinkles”). Shar-pei are the poster dogs for this, but Bloodhounds, Bulldogs (again), and various Mastiffs, often have chronic, lifetime issues with pyoderma (skin infections) due to bacteria and yeast getting trapped in skin folds.
• Tiny toy breeds. Many of the most extremely small dog breeds face major health issues, including hypoglycemia, heart defects, collapsing trachea, seizures, respiratory problems, digestive problems, and blindness. (“Teacups” are sometimes created by breeding runts to runts – and runts are more likely to have health defects to start with.)
• Dogs with “rare” colors, eye colors, coats, sizes, and other traits. Every extreme in canine fashion becomes linked to health problems in a small number of generations. To quickly develop a fashionable trait, unscrupulous breeders look for individuals with the trait and begin inbreeding with the progeny. This will produce salable individuals with the trait in the fewest number of generations – and cement the undesirable traits that the original individuals had into the progeny, too.
Ethical breeders move away from fashionable or marketable extremes and anomalies. They help bring their breeds back to healthy and traditional standards for the breed.
* Minimize stress. Pregnant mothers who are subjected to stress will flood their puppies with stress hormones in utero. This can cause a lifetime of negative behavioral effects on the pups she carried while stressed.
* Uber-socialize the puppies. Far too many breeders who consider themselves responsible don’t understand what true socialization involves, or that the primary socialization period starts as young as 4 weeks. A considerable amount of socialization must be done while the pups are still with the breeder. Most breeders don’t come anywhere near close to providing enough.
* Place only healthy puppies. A puppy with physical defects may be placed with someone capable of caring for a dog with disabilities, as long as the condition is thoroughly disclosed. But a sick puppy should never be transported or placed in a new home.
* Screen their puppy purchasers. A responsible breeder doesn’t sell her puppies to anyone with the purchase price. Instead, she questions would-be purchasers about their home, yard, fencing, family members (including other dogs and other animals), experience with dogs, intended activities with the puppy, and so on. She asks for a veterinary reference, and checks to make sure the veterinarian’s office has only praise for the prospective owner’s level of responsibility for their other pets.
* Allow potential purchasers to visit. Puppy buyers should be able to meet the friendly mother and see well-socialized puppies raised in a clean in-home environment (not an outdoor kennel). Not allowing potential buyers to see the home environment is a huge red flag.
Recently we viewed the website of a breeder that mentioned many times how many acres their “farm” was comprised of. However, Google satellite images clearly showed that the acreage was completely unfenced, and that there were only two major buildings on the property: a massive home and a two-story building. All the dogs bred on the property live in cages and kennels inside that building; they don’t get to romp on all those acres.
If you really care about dogs, make sure you visit their source and see for yourself where and how your puppy’s forebears have spent their lives.
* Provide references. A good breeder will be able and happy to share the name of her veterinarian, as well as contact information for people who have previously purchased puppies from the breeder.
* Provide support. A responsible breeder will be available to purchasers at any time during the dog’s life if the new owners have questions or concerns.
* Never – ever – sell to a pet store or puppy broker.
* Take back any puppy. This is critically important – and perhaps the most telling bit of information about a breeder of all. Responsible breeders will take back any dog they produced at any time during that dog’s lifetime, if the buyers are unable or unwilling to keep it for any reason.
Puppy Mills and the AKC
What is a puppy mill? There isn’t an official definition; it’s a pejorative term for a high-volume puppy producer, generally used by those of us who work in shelters or rescues and who deplore the overabundance of homeless dogs in this country. I’d define a puppy mill as a dog-breeding operation that puts profits over the welfare of the dogs, where dogs are forced to breed their whole lives until they are physically incapable of doing so and then abandoned – either auctioned off, sold to a rescue group, or killed in some manner.
I can’t tell you how many times someone has said to me, “My puppy didn’t come from a puppy mill; she’s registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC).” This always makes me sad, because it’s clear that the person didn’t want to buy from or support a puppy mill and thought that an AKC registration indicated a high-quality breeder. Unfortunately, puppy mills and AKC registrations are not mutually exclusive. There are hundreds (if not thousands) of high-volume kennels that meet all the hallmarks of puppy mills, churning out pups who are registered or registerable with the AKC.
The only thing an AKC registration guarantees is that the puppy’s parents were registered with the AKC, too. In no way does registration guarantee the puppy’s health or quality or indicate a humane place of origin. In fact, the AKC is well known for opposing legislative attempts to monitor or regulate breeders in any way. The organization makes its money from the registration of dogs and from entry fees for events that only dogs who are AKC-registered can compete in. Taking effective steps to limit the mass-production of registerable puppies runs counter to its financial well being.
TRAITS OF RESPONSIBLE, ETHICAL SHELTERS AND RESCUE GROUPS
Here are the things I would consider necessary for a shelter or rescue group to be responsible and ethical:
* Provide quality care to all the animals they take in. Meeting this first and foremost responsibility entails providing adequate amounts of good-quality food, water, and shelter; exercise and enrichment; and an environment where the dog feels safe and has species-specific opportunities for pleasurable experiences. (See “Beyond the Five Freedoms,” WDJ July 2019.)
* Employ standard-practice health care. This includes vaccinating on intake, keeping facilities clean, providing ample space provided for every resident (no overcrowding!), isolating sick animals in quarantine wards, providing veterinary care for any sick or injured animals, and adopting out only healthy animals.
* Conduct standardized, fair, and non-abusive behavioral assessments of each dog taken in. Full disclosure of the results of the assessments, as well as any knowledge of the dog’s history should be provided to prospective adopters. This must include any known prior bite history and behavior challenges, whether reported by a previous home or foster caretaker or observed by shelter staff or volunteers.
Note: Some shelters and rescue groups are quick to dismiss reports of aberrant behavior made by surrendering owners and adopters who returned the dog. The behavior may never be repeated in another person’s home, but potential adopters should be aware of the reports. The adopting family’s safety should be as carefully considered as the dog’s safety.
* Interview and screen prospective adopters and make appropriate adoption matches. No shelter staff member should be shaking her head as an adopter leaves the shelter with a poorly matched dog. Each dog should have the opportunity to go to a home where he has a likely chance of succeeding. Send every dog home with a collar, ID tag, microchip, and educational materials for the humans.
* Place pregnant dogs in foster homes to deliver. This reduces the mothers’ stress and minimizes the in utero impact of stress hormones on unborn puppies.
* Implement comprehensive socialization and training programs for all wards. All dogs in a rescue or shelter’s legal custody (whether in a foster home, a boarding facility, or the shelter) should receive human attention and dog-friendly training. They should commit resources to the physical and behavioral rehabilitation for suitable candidates.
* Ensure organizational transparency. Good rescues and shelters regularly publish statistics that including all the animals taken in and all their outcomes: returned to owner, adopted, in foster care, transferred to another organization, or euthanized. When animals are euthanized, the reason for that decision should be noted (injury, illness, behavior, space?). If the organization is “no-kill” and transfers an animal to another site or organization for euthanasia, this information should not be hidden.
* Euthanize animals that are not suitable for adoption. In our opinion, dogs who are suffering (including mentally suffering due to long-term incarceration) or who present a danger to their community should be euthanized using methods that are humane and accepted in the animal care industry.
Why You Shouldn't Adopt from Inhumane Shelters or Rescues
When looking for a new canine member of my family, my preference will always be to provide a home for a homeless dog. But while there are many outstanding shelters and rescue groups that I wholeheartedly support, there are some that are as bad (or even worse) than some puppy mills – and I wouldn’t adopt a dog from them any more than I would buy a puppy-mill puppy. Why?
Because just as any purchase of a puppy-mill dog supports the puppy miller, the adoption of a dog from a horrific shelter or rescue opens up space for one more dog to get pulled into their inhumane system.
How do I define “horrific”? I’d include any shelter that provides sub-par care for the animals in their facilities, or summarily euthanizes animals without any attempts to find homes for them. I’d include shelters and rescue groups that overcrowd their facilities and foster homes; good shelters and rescues don’t take on more animals than they can care provide individualized, quality care for. I also find it deplorable when rescue flippers and scammers pretend to have the dog or puppy an adopter wants, then scramble to try to find one that meets the description at another shelter (perhaps hundreds of miles away), or try to pass off a different dog.
I would also discourage people from “shopping” at shelters and rescue groups who consistently fail to make appropriate, responsible adoptions. It’s also horrific to me when I hear that a shelter or rescue routinely adopts out dogs with significant behavioral issues (all too often, these are not disclosed to the adopter) or dogs who present a significant threat to their communities (again, often without disclosure of prior aggressive behavior or serious bite incidents). It’s also inhumane and unfair to adopt out dogs to homes or families that don’t or won’t suit their size, energy, anxiety levels, and/or disposition; this sets up the dog and the adopter for failure and heartbreak.
ALWAYS SHOP RESPONSIBLY
It’s easy to understand why people get into arguments about buying versus adopting; they all love dogs! Before you fight with someone about it, though, just remember that there are good and bad eggs in both the shelter/rescue world and the breeding world. And the good eggs could use more support! Just make sure you don’t support a source that neglects and abuses the dogs we all love; no pet store puppies! Adopt or shop – as long as you do it responsibly!
Whether these puppies are in a breeder's kennel or a shelter pen is less important that the fact that they shouldn't be growing up in these environmentally impoverished, cramped, dirty, stressful conditions.
Here’s something that all of us can agree on: No one should ever buy a puppy from a puppy mill. Puppy mills are horrific and should be put out of business.
An estimated 2 million puppies are “produced” annually in puppy mills in the U.S. Since the number of dogs who are euthanized by shelters in this country every year is estimated to be 1.2 million, you can see why simply shutting down puppy mills is such an alluring idea to those of us who have worked in shelters. But it’s difficult to put an end to any practice that some people profit from, no matter how cruel it is.
That’s why we try to educate people – to make sure they understand, first of all, that any “purebred” or “designer-mix” puppy that’s for sale in a pet shop has been produced by a puppy mill, no matter what the store employees have been told to say.
We also try to make would-be buyers understand that when they pay for a puppy from a pet store, they are directly supporting canine suffering at the hands of all the shady breeders, brokers, and scammers that supply pet stores.
Most of us have seen photos and videos taken by animal protection groups following a raid on the worst kind of puppy mill, where the living conditions of the dogs are unspeakably horrendous, with cages crammed with sore-covered dogs stacked on top of more cages, and all of them full of filth. No one would argue for ”businesses” like this to be allowed to continue operation.
It’s much more difficult to recognize the cruelty of puppy mills that advertise how many veterinarians they have on staff, discuss their healthcare and socialization programs, and display pictures of shiny-clean facilities alongside their United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) licenses. The conditions look better – but their breeder dogs are still puppy-producing machines who have no semblance of quality of life. And the puppies will be sold to anyone willing to pay for them and shipped anywhere in the country at too-early ages.
The bottom line for mills is that puppies are simply “products” – and the puppy miller’s bottom line will always be more important than the welfare of the dogs.
The USDA’s Animal Welfare Act (AWA) establishes legal requirements for the care, handling, housing, transportation, and sale of animals at licensed breeding facilities. Puppy-millers and their downstream co-conspirators like to claim that their USDA licenses and unannounced AWA compliance inspections keep the industry honest. But the reality is, these laws are woefully inadequate. For example, under the AWA:
• There is no limit to the number of dogs on the premises. A puppy mill could have hundreds or even thousands of dogs.
• There is no minimum requirement for the number of staff that must be available to care for the dogs.
• Dogs may be kept in stacked cages.
• Mesh or wire flooring is allowed.
• Dogs may be forced to relieve themselves in their cages.
• Dogs may be confined in spaces only six inches longer than their bodies, not including the tail.
• A dog may be caged 24 hours a day for his or her entire life, only removed from the cage to be bred.
• There is no exercise requirement if dogs are housed with other dogs and minimum size requirements are met for the dog’s enclosure.
• Dogs can be housed indoors or out with minimal temperature regulation.
• Human interaction is not required.
• Breeding females at the first heat cycle and every heat cycle thereafter is permissible.
• Unwanted animals may auctioned off or killed in a variety of ways.
• There is no transparency to consumers or the public about the results of USDA inspections.
And finally, it should be obvious that the USDA can’t adequately inspect the entire puppy mill industry; currently there are only an estimated 110 inspectors on staff to inspect all the animal facilities under its supervision, including zoos and research labs, in addition to commercial dog breeders and brokers.
It's very common for dermatophytosis (better known as ringworm) to develop on a dog's muzzle, especially in dogs who frequently dig. The fungi that infect the dog's skin and hair and cause the unsightly lesions are common in soil.
Ringworm is not a worm. Nor is it always ring-shaped. This misnomer of a term derived from an early inaccurate belief that the infection – which often causes a round, red, raised lesion on human skin – was caused by a worm. Unfortunately, this counterfactual name stuck and it continues to mislead to this day.
Ringworm, or dermatophytosis as it is scientifically called, is actually a fungal infection of the superficial layers of the skin, hair, and/or nails. While a diagnosis of ringworm might give you the heebie-jeebies, it rarely causes serious problems and it is both treatable and, to an extent, preventable. Identifying ringworm infections at an early stage can prevent transmission and limit contamination, so dog owners should become familiar with the common signs.
RISK FACTORS
Although ringworm fungi are everywhere, there are conditions that predispose dogs to infection. Dogs that are at a higher risk of contracting the disease include puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with a compromised immune system. Other risk factors include poor nutrition, high-stress environments (such as shelters), high-density housing of animals, skin with pre-existing trauma, and living in close contact with affected dogs.
Certain dogs may have lifestyles that increase their risk of ringworm exposure, such as hunting and working dogs (including the German Short-Haired Pointer, Fox Terrier, Labrador Retriever, Beagle, Jack Russell Terrier, German Shepherd Dog), possibly due to increased contact with contaminated soil. Yorkshire Terriers seem to be more susceptible as well and are often overrepresented in ringworm research.
The good news is that the occurrence of ringworm is relatively uncommon in healthy dogs. Even if a dog has been exposed, it does not mean that he will develop the disease.
CLINICAL PRESENTATION
Dermatophytes invade keratinized structures found on skin, hair, and nails. In dogs, the head, ears, tail, and front paws are the most common sites of infection, although they may occur on any part of the body.
Ringworm infections tend to manifest as small, non-itchy asymmetrical patches of alopecia (hair loss), that spread outward on the skin. However, any combination of hair loss, papules, scales, crusts, redness, follicular plugging, hyperpigmentation, and changes in nail growth may be seen. The affected hair shafts are usually brittle and break near the skin surface, giving the lesion the appearance of having been shaved.
In the early stage, the center of the lesion often contains light-colored skin scales, giving it a powdery appearance, and the edges are generally reddish in color. Vesicles and pustules may also be seen. In later stages, the lesion may be covered by a crust and the edges of the lesion become swollen.
As these circular lesions enlarge, the central area may sometimes heal, leaving a circular lesion with central crusts or even hair regrowth. In some cases, there may be only one location of infection; in others, several patches may be present. As the fungus grows, the lesions may become irregularly shaped and spread, and individual lesions may merge to form large, irregular regional patches.
Severe infections may generalize (spread over the body); as a result, the appearance can resemble demodectic mange. Generalized cases usually occur in dogs who are immunosuppressed, especially those that have adrenal disorders or have been treated with corticosteroids. Occasionallyringworm infects a dog’s nails (as nails are comprised of keratin), causing them to become rough, brittle, and easily broken.
Fungi to Know
This culture plate contains a sample of skin and hair from a dog suspected of having ringworm. Microsporum Canis has grown in the culture, confirming the diagnosis.
Fungi occur throughout the earth and have a critical role in most ecosystems. While the early fossil record for fungi is not extensive (their inherent structure does not lend to preservation), scientists recently reported a discovery in the Canadian arctic of a fossilized fungus estimated to have lived almost a billion years ago – which is even before the existence of plants! Suffice to say fungi have been around a really long time.
Early domestication of animals, such as cats and dogs, appears to have led to a later evolution of host-specific fungi. The group of fungi referred to as keratinophylic process keratin – a structural protein that forms hair, nails, feathers, horns, claws, hooves, calluses, and the outer layer of skin among vertebrates.This group of fungi is quite large, but only three genera – Microsporum, Trichophyton, and Epidermophyton – are known to cause disease in animals and humans.
The microscopic organisms responsible for ringworm infections belong to this keratinophylic group and are known as dermatophytes (derma = skin, phyton = plants). That’s why the infection caused by these agents is called dermatophytosis.
Some species of dermatophytes are species-specific, meaning they infect only one species; others can be transmitted between different species of animals, including humans. The three most common fungal species that cause ringworm in dogs are Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum, and Trichophyton mentagrophytes. Each of these are zoonotic (which means the infection is transmissible between animals and humans), but the rate of transmission is not known. M. canis is the etiologic agent of about 70% of the cases of canine ringworm; the remainder of the cases are from M. gypseum (20%) and T. mentagrophyte (10%).
INFECTION, TRANSMISSION, COMMUNICABILITY
Dogs who come into contact with the spores of the fungi may become infected if the dermatophytes infect growing hair or the keratin-rich outermost layer of the skin. Under most circumstances, dermatophytes live only in the dead cells of skin and hair and do not affect living cells or inflamed tissue.
As a dog’s immunity to the disease develops, further spread of infection usually ceases, but this process may take several weeks and infectious spores can still be dispersed. Therefore it is a good idea to treat cases of ringworm so that spread of the contagion can be limited and the healing process and time is improved.
While ringworm isn’t common in dogs, it is contagious and most cases of ringworm are spread by contact with infected animals or contaminated objects. Infected dogs shed spores into their environment, and spore-covered broken hairs are important sources for the spread of the disease. Thus, grooming tools, dog beds, toys, bowls, and home furnishings are prime objects for harboring the infectious spores. All of these should be disinfected if ringworm enters the picture. Ringworm spores are very hardy and can survive (i.e., be infective) in suitable environments for up to 12 to 20 months.
Ringworm fungi also resides in soil. Dogs who like to dig or roll around on the ground or stick their head in rodent holes may be exposed it regularly. While these favorite pastimes may expose them to the ringworm fungi, the likelihood of infection is not high; the establishment of infection depends on the fungal species and on the canine host factors. Susceptibility is increased when the dog has exposed skin surfaces (e.g., open wounds, cuts, scrapes, burns), as well as with high temperatures and humidity.
Note: Some dogs may be asymptomatic carriers; they carry dermatophytes on their body but do not develop any clinical signs of infection. These dogs are contagious and can contaminate the environment, which can be especially problematic in multi-animal environments.
Ringworm lesions may be mistaken for other skin conditions, so don’t delay a visit to the veterinarian for a definitive diagnosis.
A ringworm-infected dog is considered contagious and can transmit the disease to people or other pets including cats, pocket pets, cows, goats, pigs, and horses. Children (especially very young children), elderly people, and people with weakened immune systems or skin sensitivities may be more vulnerable to infection.
Because ringworm can be transmitted to humans, you should take appropriate steps to minimize exposure to the fungus while the dog is being treated. It is important to wear appropriate protection (especially gloves) and wash hands thoroughly after handling an infected dog. Environmental decontamination and control are critical in treatment.
Ringworm in humans generally responds well to treatment. Chances are, if a person hasn’t contracted it from their dog by the time it is diagnosed, it is unlikely that it will occur.
DIAGNOSIS
There is not a single test to diagnosis ringworm; obtaining an accurate diagnosis of ringworm requires utilizing a few complementary diagnostic tests to confirm the infection and to rule out several other skin conditions that can have a similar appearance.
* Wood’s lamp examination. A Wood’s lamp is a small hand-held ultraviolet lamp that emits light in a specific range of wavelengths. When they bind to hair shafts, the M.canis fungi produce a chemical reaction that fluoresces a striking, distinct, apple green under the Wood’s light in a darkened room. In many cases, using the Wood’s light uncovers additional sites of infection that were not visible to the eye.
That said, neither T. mentagrophytes nor M. gypseum fluoresce under a Wood’s lamp, so while the light is useful in establishing a tentative diagnosis, it cannot be used to exclude a ringworm infection.
* Microscopic examination. Since dermatophytes are visible under magnification, your veterinarian can take a sample of hair and skin scrapings for viewing under a microscope to see if any fungal spores are present. About 85% of ringworm infections, regardless of which type of fungus is present, can be confirmed this way.
* Fungal culture. The most accurate test for diagnosing ringworm in dogs is by fungal culture of a sample of hair or skin cells. The sample is collected from the lesion(s) and placed in a special culture medium where it is monitored for fungal growth. A positive culture can sometimes be confirmed within a couple of days, but in some cases the fungal spores may be slow to grow; culture results can take up to four weeks. Therefore, a suspected sample cannot be deemed negative until four weeks have passed.
* PCR testing. Polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing is a newer diagnostic technique that can be performed on either tissue or hair samples. These samples are collected by your veterinarian and sent to a lab for processing. This test detects the DNA from any ringworm-causing fungi, providing results in just one to three days. A caveat: The test is highly sensitive and is not able to discern between true disease, contamination from surfaces, and non-viable fungal spores (which can’t cause disease but can be detected in a DNA test). This means that PCR testing is beneficial for making the initial diagnosis, but not helpful in determining whether the infection has resolved and treatment can be discontinued.
TREATMENT
In living hosts, dermatophytes usually remain in superficial tissues such as the skin, hair, and nails, living on the dead top layer of keratin protein. The lesions may be disfiguring and uncomfortable, especially when they are widespread.
But in rare cases, dermatophytes may go deeper into the body, invading subcutaneous tissues and other sites, especially in immunocompromised hosts.
Infections in healthy animals are usually self-limiting and may resolve within a few months without therapy.Treatment is recommended anyway, to accelerate recovery, reduce environmental shedding, and decrease the risk of transmission.
There is not a universal treatment plan for ringworm; your veterinarian will develop a plan based on the severity of the infection, how many pets are involved, whether there are children or other at-risk and susceptible individuals in the household, and how difficult it will be to disinfect yourenvironment.
Effective therapy involves elimination of the infection in the dog through use of topical and/or systemic therapies, prevention of further dissemination, and disinfecting and removal of infective materials in the environment.
* Topical treatment. Topical therapy destroys the fungal spores on the lesion itself, thereby limiting environmental contamination and preventing transmission. Topically treated hairs are no longer infectious when they disperse into the environment. Topical therapy is especially important situations where infected dogs can’t be or aren’t confined.
For generalized dermatophytosis, a twice-weekly, whole-body treatment is recommended. Typical treatments include a lime sulfur (calcium polysulfide) dip (leave-on rinse), an enilconazole leave-on rinse (a broad spectrum antimycotic not available at this time in U.S.), or a miconazole-chlorhexidine rinse/shampoo (this antifungal and disinfectant combination work together to combat the disease).
For localized treatment, clotrimazole, miconazole, and enilconazole have been shown to be effective, but these are recommended as concurrent treatments, not as sole therapies. Topical treatment may be necessary for a period of several weeks to several months.
* Systemic therapy. Administration of an oral anti-fungal medication can be an important adjunct to topical therapy, especially for chronic or severe cases. Systemic antifungal therapy targets the active site of fungal infection and spread on the infected dog.
Effective systemic antifungal drugs include itraconazole, terbinafine, fluconazole ketoconazole, and griseofulvin. While griseofulvinhas been the traditional antifungal drug for decades, its use is not as prevalent as it once was; newer medications appear to be safer and have less side effects.
Ketoconazole may cause liver pathology and is not recommended as the first-line of attack, but rather reserved for resistant cases.
Studies have determined that lufenuron (brand name Program) has not proven to be effective in either treating or preventing ringworm infection.
The drawbacks of systemic treatment are the relatively high cost of the drugs and the possibility of toxic side effects, which should be taken into consideration when developing a treatment plan. Dogs receiving any systemic antifungal should be closely monitored and all directions for administering the medications carefully followed.
Duncan the Digger Dog Gets Ringworm
When my 10-year old Border Collie Duncan developed a lesion onhis muzzle at age 10, I was surprised to learn that he had contracted ringworm. He hadn’t been around any infected animals; I couldn’t figure out how he had contracted it – until my veterinarian explained that the fungus exists in the soil.
Trying to keep Duncan the Digger Dog from excavating was near impossible –
nor did I want to spoil his fun. But at least there was a good theory on how he had contracted it. In hindsight, in addition to being a senior dog, it was likely that he also had a compromised immune system, as we learned later when he developed other health concerns.
What began as a small hairless spot soon grew into a shiny quarter-sized lesion. When he was examined with the Wood’s light, the affected area lit up like a glowing orb in the night sky. Because ringworm is not all that common in dogs, my veterinarian called in all his staff to see my dog’s muzzle fluoresce. To confirm the diagnosis of M. canis infection, a sample of skin and hair were taken for culture.
While we waited for the results, we began topical treatment of clotrimazole 1% applied to the lesion two to three times a day and observed for response to this therapy. The good news is that he responded well to the localized topical treatment and neither I nor Daisy (my chemotherapy-immunocompromised Border Collie) contracted the infection. In about three months, the lesion was gone, the fur had grown back, and there was little to remind us of the fungal invasion.
ENVIRONMENT THERAPY
Diligent and thorough environmental decontamination is an imperative part of treatment. Without adequate attention to the environment, the infection may not resolve, it can spread, or even cause of reinfection.
If your pet has been diagnosed with ringworm, dermatophytes are now probably everywhere your dog has been. Infected hairs contain numerous microscopic fungal spores that can be shed into the environment and can survive for almost two years.
Because infection of other animals and humans can occur, either by direct contact with an infected dog or through contact with fungal spores, you now have to clean and disinfect everything your pet has come into contact with – and continue to do this throughout the treatment period. Yep, it’s a big bummer. But it is an essential part of treatment because affected dogs will continue to reinfect their environment until the infection has resolved completely.
How often you need to clean and disinfect depends on several factors, including the number of infected individuals, whether the treatment is topical, systemic, or both, and if there any at-risk individuals in the household. Your veterinarian can advise a tailored plan, but it is generally recommended thattwice weekly cleaning includes mechanical removal of hair and washing and disinfection of target areas followed by disinfection.
As soon as possible following a diagnosis of ringworm, perform an initial thorough cleaning of your entire home, targeting your dog’s favorite spots. Mechanically remove hair, dander, and skin particles from all surfaces. Be aware that vacuuming alone does not decontaminate surfaces, but it does remove infective hair, so vacuum everywhere possible. After vacuuming, dispose of the vacuum bag outside of the home or disinfect the canister immediately.
Vacuum or use duct tape or lint rollers to remove hair from upholstered furniture. Carpet and rugs can be decontaminated by washing twice with a carpet shampooer with detergent or via hot water extraction. For hard surface floors, use commercial disposable cleaning cloths designed for dry mopping floors (such as Swiffer). Avoid brooms and mops as they are difficult to thoroughly clean and disinfect after use.
Dust with electrostatic cloths and dispose of immediately after use. Clean all washable surfaces with soap and water. Infective material is easily removed from the environment; if it can be washed, it can be decontaminated.
Any water temperature and any detergent are sufficient for decontaminating washable textiles (don’t forget to launder your dog’s bedding and toys); two washings on the longest wash cycle are recommended. Wash exposed items separately from non-exposed items and disinfect the appliances afterwards.
Daily removal of hair from the area where your dog is being confined is recommended.
Proper disinfection is a three-step process:
1. Mechanically remove all visible debris (hair and skin flakes); disinfectants are not effective in the presence of organic debris.
2. Wash the target item or surface with a detergent until the area is visibly clean, following with a rinse to remove the detergents, as cleansers some may inactivate disinfectants.
3. Apply a disinfectant to kill any residual spores. Readily available disinfectants include:
• Sodium hypochlorite (household bleach). Effective when used at concentrations ranging from 1:10 to 1:100 even with short contact time.
• Enilconazole. Available as a spray or environmental fogger. Relatively expensive. Has limited availability in some countries.
• Accelerated hydrogen peroxide (AHP). A newer broad-spectrum disinfectant that has gained widespread use. Available in concentrates and ready-to-use formulations.
• Rescue (Accel). Another effective broad-spectrum disinfectant. Available in a ready-to-use formula, concentrate, or wipes.
Should You Lock Him Up?
It’s often recommended that infected dogs be confined to one area of the home that is easy to clean. This needs to be balanced with preserving the mental and behavioral health of your dog, however, especially if he’s young or newly adopted. Confinement should be used with care and for the shortest time possible. Ringworm is curable; behavior problems can be lifelong.
RESOLUTION OF INFECTION
Many dogs will respond fairly quickly to treatment, often showing improvement within a week or two. Full treatment to clear the infection usually takes at least six to 10 weeks but can even last as long as three to four months.
Do not discontinue treatment as soon as your dog visually appears healed; dogs can still carry infective fungi even after signs appear to have completely resolved. Recurrent or lingering infections tend to be the result of treatment failure, either through inadequate duration of therapy or failure to properly decontaminate the environment.
Your veterinarian can monitor the healing progress (using a Wood’s light and/or fungal cultures) and use these results to determine when your dog is cured. Following your veterinarian’s recommendations is very important to ensuring a successful outcome and to prevent recurrence.
The good news is that almost all dogs recover completely with no long-term effects (hair loss is not permanent unless the follicle has been destroyed). Humans, on the other hand, may develop a permanent aversion to housecleaning!
Laurie and her altese, Andrew, on "Greatest American Dog"
Several of the major dog training associations have addressed the issue of racism with recently crafted position statements and messages sent to members. This is encouraging! It’s my hope that we will see these statements followed up with action. Note that each one of us can have a hand in influencing that. If you are member of a dog-related group or association, let them know you are excited about and counting on the implementation of concrete plans and courses of action to increase diversity in the ranks of dog trainers, both professional and amateur.
– Laurie C. Williams
Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (ccpdt.org)
The CCPDT joins other organizations in emphatically stating that systemic racism, injustice, and discrimination permeate our society and culture. We are hopeful that profound and permanent change is coming.
We recognize that our organization – along with our industry – lacks diversity. We will review our policies, practices, and commitment to inclusion, equality, and stopping racial disparities. Every interaction we have, whether with a client, candidate, certificant, or colleague, will be considered. On behalf of the CCPDT Board of Directors, we will build a more inclusive community of trainers, embrace diversity, and create equality in our work. Specifically, this will include:
• Examining CCPDT outreach efforts in advance of board member elections.
• Ensuring fair and unbiased questions and requirements are part of our formal application and exam processes.
• Creating a pathway into the profession, so that anyone with a desire to become a dog trainer has an opportunity to do so.
We pledge to continue this work with renewed vigor and purpose. Suggestions are welcome.
International Assoc. of Animal Behavior Consultants (iaabc.org)
What can (the IAABC) do, as an organization, as a community, and as individuals to improve this situation, and to reject the normalcy of this country’s racist legacy and policies? What can we do to finally, fully wake up and demand the equality and fairness this land of opportunity is supposed to offer?
• We can learn.
• We can carefully examine our own biases and fears.
• We can do the work of understanding and seeing.
We have done all those things for the non-human animals we work with. We must now ask, have we done it for ourselves? For our neighbors? To paraphrase the historian Ibram X. Kendi, in order to stress the points he makes in his crucially important book, How to Be an Anti-Racist:
• “Racist” should be a plain, descriptive term for policies and ideas that create or justify racial inequities, and not used as a personal attack. It is simply a factual term.
• One is either racist or anti-racist. “Not racist” doesn’t exist. Either one is reaping the benefits of (or suffering under) racist policies, or one is fighting against them.
• “Not racist” and racist are therefore the same thing.
Trainers and behavior consultants are in touch with the general public every day. We can make a difference, one interaction at a time, one effort at a time, to better our little corner of the world. We know how this works. We understand learning, and we understand how successes build upon successes.
Karen Pryor Clicker Training (karenpryoracademy.com)
KPA stands with the protesters against the violence Black, Indigenous, and people of color face too often. Change is needed. As positive reinforcement trainers, we know that behavior is never static; if we stay silent, we, in effect, reinforce past behavior. By speaking out and protesting, we can alter environmental conditions and lay the groundwork for meaningful change.
We also recognize the need to identify and explore ways to take a stand and contribute to change in our own industry. Black, Indigenous, and people of color are under-represented in the dog trainer and behavior specialist professions and related occupations. We are committed to the conversations and dialogs, education, and steps that lead to greater understanding and that can make the profession more inclusive.
PetProfessional Guild (petprofessionalguild.com)
PPG’s statement affirming its commitment to stand in solidarity against racism in support of #BlackLivesMatter:
It was important to our organization not just to make this statement, but to commit to action both in the short- and long-term. We are working with our membership to develop an advisory group that can identify and develop tangible, actionable programs to help us move our industry forward in a more fully inclusive manner.
As such, we are pleased to announce that we have appointed Connecticut-based dog trainer Christina Horne and Virginia-based dog trainer Laurie C. Williams to help us formulate, establish, and oversee this advisory team to support our goals in this endeavor. Christina and Laurie will report directly to PPG president Niki Tudge. Together, they will ensure we establish enduring practices that hold us accountable to the commitment we have made and that both PPG and the pet services industry at large represent the diversity of our population.
Training organizations develop a collaborative survey
The IAABC has collaborated with the CCPDT and Karen Pryor Academy to build an online survey for members of those organizations. Leaders in the positive reinforcement training and behavior community are asking all training and behavior professionals to share information to help take important steps to ensure equity and diversity in the field in the “Training and Behavior Diversity and Equality Survey,” found at https://iaabc.typeform.com/to/cQeE6A.
The survey will be used to strengthen and improve the organizations’ policies and practices, and to inform future speakers and panelists of issues that are important to members of the participating organizations.
Trainer Laurie Williams and her dogs Andrew (the Maltese she appeared with on a 2008 dog-training competition/reality show broadcast on CBS) and Dalmatian, Tucker. We published an interview with Laurie following the conclusion of the show. See "Positive Dog Trainer Wins Second Place in 'Greatest American Dog'"WDJ November 2008. Laurie is also a past contributing writer for WDJ. See "Could My Dog Be Racist?" WDJ February 2016.
As an African American, I’ve found these past few months difficult. I’ve been examining different aspects of my personal and professional life and reflecting on the various journeys that brought me to where I am today.
I’m a dog trainer – a professional in an industry with few Black colleagues. This isn’t the first time I’ve wondered why there are so few people of color in my profession, but it’s potentially the most impactful time to discuss it, in hopes of increasing the diversity of what has long been an extremely white occupation in the U.S.
HOW I GOT HERE
In 1985, I walked into my first dog obedience class with Casey, my new Irish Setter puppy. The class was run by the local kennel club and held at a community center in Jacksonville, North Carolina, where my U.S. Marine husband was stationed.
As the only African American in the class, I stood out, but this did not concern me. As a child, I attended predominantly white schools and lived in many white-majority neighborhoods; I was used to being one of the few Black people in many situations! Besides, I enjoyed what I learned in class so much that, after only a few sessions, I decided that I wanted to earn obedience titles with Casey and become an obedience instructor myself.
Recognizing my enthusiasm and knack for training, the seasoned and much older ladies of the kennel club took me under their wings, mentored me, and welcomed me into their inner circle. I’ve been thoroughly immersed in the world of dog training and behavior ever since.
IN THE MINORITY
I was incredibly lucky to have so much support from my fellow dog trainers, especially since I have often been the only African American wherever I went in the dog world, whether I was competing at local conformation dog shows or obedience or agility trials. I see more people of color in the dog world today, but at most local events, out of the dozens in attendance, you’d be able to count Black people on one or maybe two hands.
I’m confident when competing with my dogs against anyone in a dog show. But in all these years, I have felt most uncomfortable among my dog-trainer peers at professional dog-training conferences, workshops, and seminars. Why is this? I’ve thought about it a lot.
For one thing, I stand out even more at these educational meetings than at dog shows. The dog-training profession is strikingly white and largely comprised of white, middle- and upper middle-class women. This is especially true of the subset of trainers who use positive reinforcement and science-based training.
But it’s more than just being a minority. Through the years I have attended many dog-training conferences and events. While I can’t say I experienced any overt racism or bigotry, I often felt discounted and downright invisible. Worse, on occasion I was mistaken as “the help” at the conference hotels where the events were being held.
I don’t know how to explain this, except to say that dog trainers are not always perceived as the most inclusive people, welcoming and open to different points of view and perspectives. There is a joke about dog trainers that goes, “If you put two dog trainers in a room, what’s the only thing they would agree on? That the third dog trainer is wrong!” The profession is rife with contrasting schools of thought and methodologies, complete with exclusive cliques and very strong lines drawn in the sand.
Most people who know me know that I walk to the beat of my own drummer and I’m generally unbothered by the opinions of others. But I must admit that stepping out of the comfort zone of my own little training community into the big one at large was sometimes daunting even for me, a middle-class, suburban Black woman raised and educated among white people. Think of how difficult it might be for newcomers to break into the dog-training profession, especially when they don’t see anyone else who looks like them at the table.
Laurie and her altese, Andrew, on “Greatest American Dog”
It wasn’t until I became a minor celebrity from appearing on the reality television show “Greatest American Dog” in 2008 that other trainers started noticing and acknowledging me and speaking to me at events. At that point, dog training hadn’t ever been the center of a prime-time broadcast television show, and most trainers had seen at least one episode; it seemed like the show was a safe topic as an entry point to conversation. I met and made friends with many more fellow trainers after the show ended.
FRAUGHT RELATIONS BETWEEN DOGS AND AFRICAN AMERICANS
Historically, the relationship between Black Americans and dogs is quite different than that of white Americans. Our relationship with dogs has been complicated and tainted and affected by violence, fear, and intimidation.
Laurie and her Dalmatian, Eliis, at a “Fast Cat Trial” (a form of lure coursing) where Ellis earned his FCAT title.
As a very young child in the 1960s, I regularly saw images on the nightly news of Black people being knocked down with fire hoses and police wielding batons, accompanied by teeth-bared and lunging German Shepherd Dogs – dogs who were sometimes even let loose to terrorize and attack civil rights protestors. Those images haunt me to this day.
However, we can go even further back than that. Dogs were an integral tool in the implementation and management of the institution of slavery in this country, from their presence and usage on slave ships during the middle passage, to the shores and plantations where dogs were used as tools of intimidation and bred and trained to track, attack, and even kill runaway slaves.
These experiences have undoubtedly led to a multigenerational fear and avoidance of dogs in many Black families. Even within my own family, I have relatives with such a real and present fear of dogs that they refuse to visit my home (I have never had fewer than two dogs, and today I have five: two Dalmatians, a Pharaoh Hound, a long-haired Chihuahua and a Yorkie).
In poor neighborhoods in many cities, dogs often play a role as a household’s protection againstcrime. In neighborhoods where dogs like this are common, children are uniformly warned against approaching dogs – any dogs.
Given all this, it makes sense that it has been a bit of a longer and tougher road for dogs to be welcomed and thought of as viable and close members of African American families.
Race and Pet Ownership in the U.S.
Statistics vary according to their source, but every survey or study we were able to find confirmed one thing: Black Americans are far less likely to be dog owners than Americans of other races.
In 2006, the Pew Research Center published a study that asked people of various races whether they owned pets, and if so, what kind? Of the white households that owned pets, 45% reported owning a dog. Of the Black households that owned pets, only 20% reported owning a dog.
It’s much easier to find statistics regarding “pet” ownership than “dog” ownership.A 2018 poll conducted by Branded Research, Inc., asked 14,755 participants about “pet” ownership.The majority – 66% – reported owning a pet of some kind. About 70% of Caucasian participants said they owned at least one pet; only 44% of Black participants said they were pet owners.
The 2017-2018 American Veterinary Medical Association’s “Pet Ownership & Demographics Sourcebook” shows similar numbers: “Pet ownership differs among racial and ethnic groups. The highest rate of pet ownership overall in 2016 was seen among white households (64.7%), with Latino/Hispanic (61.4%) households next. The lowest rate was found among Black/African-American households (36.9%).”
INCREASING THE VISIBILITY OF BLACK TRAINERS
I often ask other trainers how they got into dog training. For many, it wasn’t until they attended a dog-training class with their own dog (as in my own experience) or had the opportunity to hire a professional dog trainer to help them with their dog, that they considered entering the profession.
Laurie and her Dalmatian, William, working toward a “coach dog” title.
This is why I’d like to suggest that the more trainers there are who are people of color, the more people of color could see that dog training might be a good career choice for them! Also, I suspect that many more Black and brown people would engage the services of a professional dog trainer if there were more Black and brown dog trainers!
As a dog trainer, what can I do to help make my profession more inclusive and diverse? I have a few ideas:
1. Extra effort must be made to usher in newcomers from diverse populations. That means seeking and recruiting clients, staff, interns, and working students from different races, cultures, and nationalities.
2. We need to create and foster an environment that is nurturing and welcoming to everyone. Learning about cultural differences so we can better gain an understanding of and communicate with racial and cultural minorities is a good start.
3. I encourage all trainers to examine their own training programs, looking for possible barriers to diversity within our marketing and outreach, staff, communication style, and educational materials. This includes acknowledging possible biases and/or lack of sensitivities within ourselves and others around us and taking steps, no matter how small, to do better. To change, you must want to change.
4. Trainers should apply the same principles and be just as outspoken about our commitment to the humane, fair, and compassionate treatment of our fellow human beings as we are for dogs.
5. Let it be known that you fervently stand up against racism, discrimination, and bigotry, both within our industry and society at large. Our community mirrors society at large and is not exempt.
BE WELCOMING
My hat will always be off to those “ladies of the club,” who helped draw me into dog training some 35 years ago. Honestly, they were a gruff old bunch of heavy-handed women (with dogs and people), rough around the edges, and definitely entrenched in old-fashioned dog-training methods.
In regard to inclusivity, however, those women were way ahead of their time. They welcomed me with open arms when they didn’t have to. If it weren’t for them, I might have missed out on one of my greatest passions in life. Let’s work together to make sure other dog enthusiasts who look like me don’t miss out on theirs.
Canine education specialist, dog behavior counselor, and trainer Laurie C. Williams is the owner of Pup ‘N Iron Canine Fitness & Learning Center in Fredericksburg, Virginia.