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When a Dog is Scared of Thunder

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A dog scared of thunder is an unhappy dog.
Establish a spot in your house to serve as your dog’s “safe space” when storms strike. A well-insulated basement is a good candidate – but the white noise provided by laundry machines in your laundry room might make that room another spot to consider. Photo by Sonja Rachbauer, Getty Images

Of all the various sound sensitivities we encounter with our dogs, thunder phobias might be the worst – hardest to predict and manage, and most challenging to modify. Having had several storm-sensitive dogs over the years myself, I can commiserate with anyone living with a dog that’s scared of thunder and who freaks out at storms.

What Does Storm Sensitivity Look Like?

Dogs who are fearful of storms may display one or more of a long list of anxiety behaviors, including:

  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Trembling
  • Hiding
  • Clinging to owner
  • Drooling
  • Destructiveness
  • Excessive vocalization
  • Self-inflicted injury
  • Incontinence

The sooner you recognize these behaviors and take steps to manage your dog’s storm stress, the better. Storm phobias tend to get significantly worse if not addressed quickly.

Managing a Dog Scared of Thunder

If you can, create a safe place in your home where it’s possible to muffle or mute storm sounds, such as a well-insulated basement. You can also utilize so-called “sound-proof crate covers” (a heavy moving blanket will work), noise-blocking curtains, and/or sheets of sound-absorbing material, and use a white noise machine or calming music to muffle storm sounds.

There are also a number of over-the-counter products that can help reduce storm stress, such as the Thunder Shirt; calming pheromones like Adaptil diffusers, collars, and sprays; and anxiety-relieving nutritional supplements. Ask your veterinarian which of these they would recommend.

Additionally, this is one of the few behaviors for which I urge clients to discuss prescription anti-anxiety medications with a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about behavior or a veterinary behaviorist, sooner rather than later. Be sure to ask about Sileo – the first and only FDA-approved noise-aversion medication for dogs.

Modifying Storm Sensitivity

Because thunder-phobic dogs come to associate the approach of a storm with the inevitable arrival of thunder and lightning, they tend to become more and more sensitized to the mere hint of a potential storm – dark clouds, increasing wind and, some suggest, change in barometric pressure. Counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) is one of our most useful tools for changing a dog’s association with a fear-causing stimulus.

One of the key elements of a successful CC&D program is the ability to control the intensity of the aversive stimulus – distance, volume, amount of movement – hence the challenge with storms. We cannot control how loud, intense, windy, or close a storm will be, and we can’t control when or where lightning will strike. Recordings of storms may be helpful for CC&D, but many dogs can easily tell the difference between a recording and a real storm. For help choosing an effective recording of a storm to use for CC&D, see “Sound Effects,” WDJ March 2020.

You can do CC&D with treats, and will need to stop treating when your dog becomes too stressed to eat. Some owners successfully use play for CC&D – engaging the dog enthusiastically in a favorite game at the first sign of pending storm activity. This can help – but it risks giving the dog a negative association with her favorite games. Use play carefully, and end the game before your dog is so stressed she shuts down and stops playing. See this article for in-depth information about how to use CC&D to help a storm-phobic dog.

Finally, it is perfectly appropriate to comfort your storm phobic dog. Despite warnings you may have heard, you cannot reinforce fear, and your calm reassurances can help your dog through these hard times.

It’s not easy living with a storm-phobic dog, and the road will be long. Speaking from experience, I can tell you that it’s well worth it when you can finally see your dog resting peacefully at your feet while that storm rages overhead.

Why Does My Dog Follow Me Everywhere?

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Woman and dogs walking in hallway at home
Your dogs might drive you crazy by following you around your house, but it’s a very normal dog behavior. Photo by The Good Brigade, Getty Images

Does your dog suffer from FOMO? Is he your four-legged shadow around the house? Whether you find his constant following you and staring at you endearing or potentially annoying, we’re here to assure you that it’s normal and, in most cases, nothing to worry about.

Dogs are highly social creatures. Research shows dogs bond with humans in ways other canines do not. Plus, they’re masters at learning what works to help them get what they want, and they can be quick to figure out our daily patterns. All this, plus some natural breed tendencies, help explain why some dogs tend to follow their owners around the house. The most common reasons include:

  • Dogs enjoy companionship. That dogs are such social animals is what makes them such wonderful companions. Research reveals dogs possess a genetic mutation that makes them predisposed to being friendly with humans in ways other canines are not. This makes it easy to develop mutually rewarding relationships with the dogs in our lives.
  • Breed traits. In developing breeds of dogs, different traits are selected based on their perceived usefulness and desirability. Breed descriptions – especially among breeds developed to work in partnership with man – are full of words like “loyal,” “active,” “curious,” “intelligent,” etc. These are all traits that make it more likely dogs will carefully observe our behavior and want to be part of the action.

Often, dogs follow us because they’ve learned our patterns and know something fun is imminent. If your morning routine consists of getting out of bed, going downstairs, making coffee, going back upstairs to change clothes, and then going for a walk, there’s a good chance your dog has learned your pattern of behavior and follows you in eager anticipation of the morning walk.

  • We reward the behavior. On top of a dog’s natural tendency to enjoy being with us, we often reinforce their affiliative behavior, often without knowing we’re doing it! Dogs, as social companion animals, love attention. The simple act of speaking to your dog or reciprocating his stare – making eye contact and giving him your attention – is rewarding for most dogs. And of course, when they follow us into the kitchen, the odds of receiving a tasty morsel are high!
  • Inability to settle. Some dogs have a harder time developing an “off-switch” and shadow our every move at home because they don’t know how to relax and self-entertain. This can be common in curious puppies and adolescent dogs of more active breed types. Teaching a dog to settle – the fine art of relaxing – is an important lesson. It’s also a lesson that, in many dogs, can help prevent separation distress issues by teaching that it’s OK to be away from their primary attachment figure. When I get a new puppy or adult dog, one of the first skills I work on is how to be calmly confined (with the help of a crate, exercise pen, or baby gate) in another room while we’re all home.
  • In some cases, your dog may be closely shadowing your every move due to anxiety. This can include situational anxiety (such as during thunderstorms or fireworks, when your dog is seeking comfort), or in more generalized cases of separation anxiety, when your dog recognizes your departure pattern and begins to get anxious in advance of you leaving the house. Prolonged anxiety is unhealthy for both pets and people, so if you believe your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, it’s a good idea to consult a positive-reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for help.

Don’t Bring Your Dog To Every Gathering!

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Most dogs would hate this! The instinct to include your dog in everything is coming from a good place, but unfortunately it can often result in their discomfort – or worse! Photo by Aleksandar Nakic, Getty Images

Every now and then there’s an incredible dog with an experienced owner who can go everywhere together: the holiday party at the in-laws, the kids’ out-of-town soccer tournament, the weeklong group vacation house with two other unknown dogs. This dog can also be left unsupervised around the remodeling crew or the fancy cheese plate on the low table, and it’s a piece of cake for him to hang out calmly when the doorbell rings and strangers enter the house.

That dog drives me crazy.

Why? Because that dog makes everybody else think their dog should be able to do those things. Then they try it, and a Bad Thing happens. The owners now think their dog is problematic.

You know who’s problematic? We humans, when we don’t anticipate that some parts of our lives are not suitable for sharing with our dogs. Rather than thinking, “Wow, it’s amazing that my dog can navigate most of human life really well,” we think, “Dang it, what’s wrong with my dog that he can’t handle the annual holiday party without causing a disaster?”

I’d bet good money that the majority of emergency-room visits for dog bites at this time of year are a result of what we dog trainers call “trigger-stacking.” This is when a long car ride + sister-in-law’s unfamiliar house + crowded spaces + unknown people + humans weirdly stressed + no exercise + oops, kitty cat! + young people squealing = bite!

Please do your dog a favor: Stop thinking you need to (or even can!) train any and every dog to handle anything and everything. It’s not fair to impose the same set of behavioral expectations on all dogs. We don’t expect all humans to handle every social situation with equal aplomb!

Instead, with your dog’s specific skills and limitations in mind, think through situations ahead of time, and make adult decisions about whether and how to safely include the dog.

Management Keeps Everyone Safe

In some cases, leaving your dog home for a few hours, or using a trusted pet-sitter to care for her for a few days, is the best solution. In other cases, bringing her along, but using a management tool (or combination of tools), such as a crate, exercise pen, baby gate, or closed door to prevent unsupervised socializing, will be sufficient to prevent her from getting overwhelmed, overstimulated, and/or scared, and snapping at someone in order to get the space she needed.

I’m not advocating a life of separation for your dog; I’m talking about a few critical moments here and there, and sometimes just an hour or two. I love helping folks weave their dogs into as many hours of their lives that they can – as long as it’s safe and happy for humans and canines alike. However, I can’t begin to tell you how many tragic situations could be averted if owners would accept the idea that their dog isn’t currently a good fit for every single scene, and that management is the perfect way to help her through life in a human household.

For example:

  • Crate her or put her behind a baby gate with a nice marrow bone when the doorbell rings. Then you’re free to greet the guest, and your dog can get a sense of things as she sniffs and listens from a nice little distance. Most dogs can be released for a calm greeting eventually – whether that’s one minute later, or 20.
  • Choose a trusted pet-sitter for the holidays rather than forcing her into a situation that brings out the worst in her. It can be hard to find the right pet-sitter, but it’s sure a lot easier when you give it the priority it deserves. Start early! And when you find a good one, treat them so very well that they’ll drop anything to come back next time!

I think everyone can accept that it just makes sense to put up a temporary pen to keep the dog and the plumber from being in each other’s business all day – but I also understand that there’s more of an emotional component to leaving your dog out of the family Christmas or Hanukkah celebration. But it sure stinks when trying to make sure Fido “gets to enjoy the holiday” ends up with everyone thinking he’s a dangerous dog. Instead, do what all the best trainers do: Either leave your dog home, or employ a simple management strategy that will preserve the holiday peace.

My Dog Doesn’t Want to Walk

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How to Walk Your Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Eventually, your dog will walk on a loose leash, with his attention mainly focused on you. Credit: fotografixx / Getty Images

If your dog won’t walk on a leash, look at the situation from the dog’s view. Why aren’t walks fun for him?

Start by ruling out physical problems. Are his nails too long? He could have irritated skin between his toes, sore muscles, or arthritis pain that makes walking uncomfortable. If you’re not sure, get a veterinary checkup. If your dog is a senior with arthritis, pain medication might be in order; ask your vet about this.

Check the fit of his harness – or, better yet, try a different one, or use only his flat collar.

When choosing a harness, consult our Best Front Clip Harnesses review.

Be sure where you’re walking is comfortable for him – no hot pavement, prickly grass, difficult hills. If it’s cold out, are his paws too cold? Some dogs literally sit on their hindquarters in an attempt to get all four feet off of the ground. Others limp.

Make Walking Fun

To increase your dog’s enthusiasm for walking, remember that:

  • A walk must include time for sniffing. The term “sniffari” is often used to describe a dog checking out scents. Some experts say sniffing is like reading the newspaper, so let your dog get the news! Remember, this is his walk!
  • If you walk with a friend, don’t neglect your dog. Give your dog attention. Avoid talking on your phone or being otherwise distracted.
  • Don’t pressure your dog to walk faster than he can. Older dogs, little dogs, and dogs with physical problems will walk slower than you do. The leash should always be loose on your walks.
  • Don’t force him to walk in areas that make him nervous. If smells and sounds from the zoo make him nervous, stay away from the zoo. Walk where he’s comfortable; go in a new direction or drive to a new area a mile or two away. Use treats and praise to encourage him, and never use force or drag your dog along.
  • If your dog won’t take even very high-value treats on your walks, it’s a sign that he is highly stressed.

Treats for Walking

Now, let’s rev up his enthusiasm for the leash and for walks.

Pick up the leash, say “Leash!” and put it on him. Immediately give him a treat. Then, ask him to walk with you around your house or yard, using a new cue (one that hasn’t been used before). You can say, “Walk” or “OK” or “Let’s go!” It doesn’t matter. What does matter is that you say it in a fun, upbeat, happy tone and, as soon as he takes one step with you, reward him. Reward him frequently. Keep sessions no more than three to five minutes long. At this point, you may notice he walks along frequently looking up at you.

When you think he’s ready, go somewhere new for a very short walk. Give him lots of treats along the way. If you think something ahead might bother him, use a very high rate of reinforcement (treats and praise) as you approach and move past the obstacle. Eventually, he’ll look at you for a treat when approaching something he’s concerned about.

Gradually lengthen the walks, but if your dog becomes reluctant again, and his health and equipment issues have already been addressed, reduce the length of your treks and respect his limits! Not all dogs need to walk far for their health or happiness.

How to Care For Your Dogs When You’re Not Well

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sick person with dog on sofa
Adult dogs are often content to keep us company on our sickbeds, at least for a few days. It’s more of a challenge to keep puppies and adolescent dogs out of trouble when we’re not feeling up to providing their usual amount of exercise. © Photo by Justin Paget, Getty Images

All the world’s viruses seem to be having their way with us at the moment. I don’t think I know anybody who isn’t sick right now, just getting over being sick, or caring for someone else who is sick – and dreading getting sick themselves. (That last part is me; my husband has been down for an entire week with fever, sore throat, cough, lethargy, etc. And my sore throat just started – ACK!)

One of the rough parts of being sick is having to take care of your pets, no matter how terrible you feel. It’s one thing if there is someone else in your household who can step up to handle feeding, walking/pottying, and other care chores when you don’t feel up to it, but many of us are either on our own, or partnered with housemates who just can’t seem to manage any more than the most basic pet-care tasks.

I don’t know why I didn’t think of writing about this topic early on in the pandemic, or even when everyone in my house (husband, self, visiting grandson) got Covid last summer. Maybe because, thank dog, we got through that fairly easily – whereas this current virus (or, who knows, more than one virus?) has been delivering more of a knockout punch, and has me worrying about how I’m going to keep Boone from alienating all our neighbors with barking or eating all our furniture if I can’t get him out onto a trail for more than a week. At not quite one year of age, his low-management good behavior lasts no more than 48 hours after an off-leash hike or playdate with another adolescent dog. Try to go any longer than that, and some package is going to get chewed or buried, shoes will be relocated to the back of the pasture, neighborhood walkers will be barked at for the full length of our 2-acre corner-lot fence, and so on. Mischief will be made!

Contemplating the potential for destruction as I take my rising temperature, I remembered that we’ve previously published two articles that were about, at least tangentially, how to care for and exercise your dogs when you are not operating at full power. Both this article and this one were written by authors who were sidelined by physical incapacity (surgery, in the first case, and age-related physical limitations in the second) rather than illness – but they both offered good ideas about caring for your pets when you are not at your physical best.

Though our Training Editor Pat Miller wrote this article about how to keep your dog entertained (and out of trouble) when he is supposed to be kept quiet (after surgery for a broken leg or a repaired ACL, for example), many of its suggestions could be used to occupy a young or energetic dog when you aren’t feeling up to taking him for his usual walks.

Back-up caregivers

I would also encourage any dog owner to have a short-term and a longer-term emergency caregiver lined up, just in case. What if you had a car accident or a stroke – or even needed to be hospitalized for a few days with Covid or RSV? We all should have at least one person, and a backup or two (if possible), who could (and would) care for our dogs for a day or three in case we are incapacitated, short-term, for any reason.

And, though this is a much more difficult “ask,” we all should have a plan for our dogs’ long-term care if we were out of commission for something more like weeks or months. Is there anyone who could take your dogs for that long? A neighbor, family member, good friend, co-worker? Think about who might be a candidate, take them out for lunch to discuss it with them, and make sure that they would be enthusiastically on board.

And – maybe this is just the impending illness getting me down – we should also have a plan in place for who would take our dogs if we passed away. This in-depth article is a fantastic guide to setting up a Trust for your pets, which would cover everything they would need (except you) in the event of your untimely death.

Forgive me for feeling a bit dark at this festive time of year! I think I’m going to hand out some frozen food-filled Kongs to my three dogs and go back to bed. I don’t want this cold taking me out!

Blastomycosis in Dogs

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Blastomycosis in dogs is a fungal infection, often affecting the respiratory tract.
The fungus that causes blastomycosis thrives in warm, moist environments, like decaying leaves and soil. A dog playing with leaves like this is releasing mold spores into the air. Once inhaled, the spores can thrive and reproduce. Credit: Kristin Castenschiold / Getty Images

If you’re wondering what is blastomycosis in dogs, consider yourself lucky. Blastomycosis, sometimes referred to as simply “blasto,” is a nasty fungal infection that causes respiratory problems and can lead to death. If you haven’t heard of it, your dog hasn’t gotten this diagnosis.

Dogs (and humans!) can be infected when they accidentally breathe in fungal spores. The fungus is found in warm wet climates and resides in decaying matter, like leaves, and in soil. Once the spores are inhaled, they thrive in the warm, moist environment of the dog’s airways and lungs and begin to reproduce. In severe cases, the infection can spread to other organs in the body.

Blastomycosis Symptoms

Blastomycosis symptoms in dogs usually look like a respiratory infection and include coughing, difficulty breathing, weight loss, and lethargy. If other organ systems are infected, the dog might also have a fever, lameness, eye problems, or skin lesions. Blastomycosis is not contagious.

Blastomycosis Treatment

Blasto is treated with anti-fungal medications, as well as treatments targeted for any of the symptoms that your dog is experiencing. Dogs with mild respiratory signs generally have a good prognosis and are able to make a full recovery, but this disease can be fatal.

Blastomycosis Prevention

How to prevent blastomycosis in dogs? There is no sure-fire strategy, as we cannot see the fungal spores in the air or leaf litter. Avoiding areas where blasto is prevalent is the best strategy.

In the United States, blasto is most common in the midwestern, south-central, and southeastern states. The Mississippi, Missouri, Tennessee, and Ohio River basins, Great Lakes, and St. Laurence Seaway are the areas with the most cases reported. The fungus that causes it, Blastomyces dermatitidis, prefers a warm, moist environment.

If you live in one of these areas or have visited them with your dog, seek veterinary attention immediately if you notice any respiratory abnormalities – prompt treatment is the best way to protect your dog.

What Is Heterochromia in Dogs?

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merle puppy
We would not recommend buying a merle-colored puppy from a pet store, with sight-unseen parentage. If both parents are merle, the puppy has a 25% chance of receiving two merle genes, which can confer blindness and/or deafness, as well as other health problems. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Have you ever seen a dog whose eyes were each a different color? This condition is called heterochromia, and it’s due to variations in the amount of melanin pigment in the iris, which is the colored part of the eye. Heterochromia can be congenital (inherited) or acquired.

Inherited heterochromia is caused by specific genes that are passed to the puppy from one or both parents. All puppies have blue or bluish-gray eyes when they are born. The eye color changes as they mature, with the final color of the eyes appearing at about 16 weeks. Puppies with inherited heterochromia will display their differently colored eyes by that age. Puppies with different colored eyes usually have normal eyesight and no problems.

Acquired heterochromia, on the other hand, is worrisome. If an adult dog’s eye starts changing color, he needs to be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Acquired heterochromia can be caused by trauma to the eye or by inflammation in the eye. Cancer, some autoimmune conditions, and bleeding disorders can cause ocular inflammation that, in turn, causes the eye or eyes to change color.

Types of Heterochromia

Inherited heterochromia manifests in three basic forms. Complete heterochromia, which is called “heterochromia iridis,” is when the two irises are different colors. Dogs with complete heterochromia are sometimes called “bi-eyed.”

The second form, “sectoral heterochromia” (called “parti-eyed”), refers to two or more colors in the same iris. This variation in color may include flecks, marbling, and /or geometric splits, which is when discrete segments of the iris are different colors.

When the center of the iris is a different shade than its remainder, it’s called “central heterochromia.” Often, the center color doesn’t form a perfect circle, but exhibits streaks or spikes of color that flare irregularly into the outer color.

The Inheritance of Heterochromia

This dog is bi-eyed; she has complete heterochromia, with each iris a different solid color. Photo by Sarah Richardson

Hereditary heterochromia is caused by specific genes that are often the same genes that determine coat color. Scientists have identified 15 genes that play roles in canine coat color phenotypes. Two genes known to produce heterochromia are named for the coat patterns they produce: merle and piebald.

The merle coat color consists of variegated patches of dark color over a lighter shade of that color. Merle comes in two colors: liver (red merle) and black (blue merle).  The coat occurs due to an incomplete (or partially expressed) dominant gene, which means that only one parent needs the merle gene to pass it along to the next generation. With the merle gene, inherited heterochromia is predictive: Dogs who have the merle gene are more likely to have heterochromia than dogs without this gene.

Though it produces stunning coat colors, the merle gene is also associated with a host of ear and eye disorders. Ethical breeders avoid mating two dogs with merle characteristics, as the result of such a pairing is a 25% chance of producing “double-merle” dogs, which are prone to disorders that can include blindness and deafness. Unscrupulous breeders, or those who are ignorant or careless about the dangers of the double-merle genes, may produce blind and/of deaf dogs and pass them off to puppy buyers who are unaware of the additional challenges of managing and training a blind and/or deaf dog. Other unethical breeders may “dump” such puppies in shelters or with rescues.

This dog is parti-eyed; she has sectorial heterochromia. Her left iris has one section that lacks melanin (which shows as blue). Photo by Nancy Kerns

The piebald gene, aka white spotting gene, causes a more random deletion of melanin that results in a dog with a completely white coat, or white patches and/or white spots on the dog’s coat. This gene can also result in heterochromia and deafness. The suppression of melanocytes by the piebald pigment gene can lead to degeneration of the auditory nerves that enable hearing in very young puppies. This inheritance is more complex than the merle gene, and much more research needs to be done to understand it.

Owing to a preponderance of the genes that cause heterochromia, certain dog breeds are far more prone to having eyes of differing colors than others. In addition to Australian Shepherds and Siberian Huskies, heterochromia occurs in Great Danes, Dachshunds, Dalmatians, Chihuahuas, Shih tzus, Border Collies, and quite a few lesser-known breeds. Some sources suggest that perhaps 10% of Siberian Huskies are either bi-eyed or parti-eyed.

What Matters Most

Breeding for good health is of paramount importance to ethical dog breeders; they want puppy customers to enjoy many wonderful years with a four-legged family member who can enjoy the world with all his or her senses, including eyesight and hearing. So, if you’re purposely looking for a dog with two different colored eyes – and many people do! – just be sure you find an ethical breeder. But make eye color (and coat color!) secondary to the pup’s personality and suitability for your home and what you eventually want to do with the dog. If you’re purchasing a purebred dog, go to the best breeders. Get to know the puppies for making a choice. And, if you get the perfect-for-you bi-eyed beauty, revel in your pup’s peepers!

Dog Breeds with Common Occurrences of Heterochromia
  • Alaskan Malamute
  • American Foxhound
  • Australian Cattle Dog
  • Australian Shepherd
  • Beagle
  • Border Collie
  • Catahoula Leopard Dog
  • Chihuahua
  • Dachshund
  • Dalmatian
  • Great Dane
  • Pembroke Welsh Corgi
  • Shetland Sheepdog
  • Shih tzu
  • Siberian Husky

Download The Full January 2023 Issue PDF

  • Gear of the Year
  • Meet Your Dog’s Needs
  • Ear Cropping
  • An Anxious Groom
  • Off-Leash Training
  • Diffusing Essential Oils
  • The 3-3-3 Myth
  • Skin Lesions and Cancer
  • Chatter of Fact
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Knee Injuries in Dogs

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Black and white border collie catches a frisbee drive
If you’re going to let your dog play athletic games like flying disc sports, he needs to be physically fit, which means joints, tendons/ligaments, and muscles with an appropriate bodyweight. ©Ksenia Raykova / Getty Images

Most dog knee injuries are either a patellar luxation or a cruciate ligament injury.  A patellar luxation, or dislocation, is usually due to congenital defects, which means the poor conformation was present at birth. While cruciate ligament injuries can have a conformation component as well, trauma is usually the cause. Both injuries cause pain and require veterinary attention.

Dog Knee Dislocation

The patella is your dog’s kneecap. The patella normally slides up and down in the middle of the knee in a natural groove, called the femoral trochlear groove, located at the end of the femur. Unfortunately, inherited defects in the dog’s knee can allow the kneecap to slide to one side or the other. If it slips to the outside, it is a lateral luxation. If it slips to the inside, it is a medial luxation.

Medial luxations are most common and tend to occur in small breeds such as Boston Terriers, Chihuahuas, Miniature Poodles, and Pomeranians. Larger dogs, such as Chinese Shar Pei, Flat-Coated Retrievers, Akitas, and Great Pyrenees, often have lateral luxations.

About 7% of puppies have patellar problems, and most show evidence of luxation in both rear legs.

Patellar luxations are graded as to their severity:

  • Grade I: The patella can be luxated by hand but doesn’t flip out on its own. If left alone, it will reposition to normal.
  • Grade II: The patella may slip out of its place on its own but if the dog straightens his leg, or you push on it, it will return to its place.
  • Grade III: The patella tends to normally be in an abnormal location but you can push it into place with your hand
  • Grade IV: The patella is always luxated and can’t be put back in place by hand.

Patellar Knee Injury Symptoms

If your dog’s kneecap moves out of place, you may notice your dog “skipping” at times when he moves, holding a leg up, or stopping and stretching a rear leg out, then continuing on. Severe luxations in puppies may alter their stance, resulting in a bowlegged appearance (medial luxation) or knock-kneed appearance (lateral luxation).

Kneecap problems are usually diagnosed with a physical exam. Your veterinarian will also check for cranial cruciate problems since the two problems can be associated. X-rays are often recommended to look for other orthopedic conditions that may influence treatment, such as hip dysplasia.

Treatments for Knee Injuries

Treatment varies with the severity of the luxation. Grade 1 and many grade 2 cases are often left alone and watched for developing problems, especially in smaller dogs. Grade 3 and grade 4 cases usually need surgery to keep the dog comfortable and reduce the chances of more orthopedic problems down the line.

In dog knee surgery for a dislocation, generally, the soft tissues are tightened on the opposite side of the luxation to help hold the patella in place. The femoral groove may be deepened to help keep the kneecap on its ideal track. The tibial crest may be moved to realign major muscles and provide a more normal anatomy for the leg. Many dogs with a kneecap problem will develop osteoarthritis later in life.

Cruciate Ligament Injuries

Most cruciate ligament problems are related to trauma. It could be an acute injury that occurs when the dog turned too tight at speed, for example, or a low-grade, chronic problem that has degenerated over time. Tears may be partial or complete.

Your dog has two cruciate ligaments: the caudal (responsible for forward stability of the joint) and the cranial (rear stability). These ligaments crisscross (hence “cruciate”) the knee joint between the bottom of the femur and the top of the tibia. They provide stability for the knee joint but allow extension and flexion. Side-to-side movement is limited.

Dogs tend to tear their ligaments while active – running, turning sharply, stepping in a hole while running, and so on. However, a ligament can be torn in an event as simple as an overweight Beagle leaping off the couch and landing badly. Risk factors for cruciate problems include environmental factors such as lifestyle activities and weight.

Torn Ligament Symptoms

Sudden, extreme pressure causes the ligament fibers to stretch and rupture. Many dogs will cry out, and most will suddenly go three-legged lame and hold up the affected leg. The joint may become inflamed, swollen, and painful. Signs of a chronic partial tear may be more subtle – resembling arthritis. You may notice your dog is unusually stiff after a period of inactivity and/or shows intermittent lameness.

Breeds at highest risk of a torn cruciate are muscular, active, medium to large dogs, including Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Rottweilers, and Pit Bulls.

This injury is so common in Labs that a genetic test looking for susceptibility to cruciate problems is available through the Comparative Genetics and Orthopaedic Research Laboratory at the University of Wisconsin–Madison School of Veterinary Medicine. A dog who is positive on this genetic test is not guaranteed to rupture a cruciate but is considered at higher risk: about 62% genetic coupled with 38% environment. Owners should be extra vigilant about preventing weight gain and should do regular physical therapy to keep their dogs fit.

Diagnosing a Cruciate Knee Injury

Your veterinarian will likely diagnose your dog’s knee injury on physical examination. A lax (loose) joint is a solid indicator of a complete tear. Further diagnostics might include radiographs to look at arthritic changes and/or arthroscopy, which is a surgical procedure that allows the veterinarian to into the joint and check the menisci, which are two cartilage discs that provide cushioning in the knee joint.

Knee-Injury Treatment

Small dogs may do well with a custom fitted brace or may need a surgery called extracapsular repair in which a suture helps to stabilize the joint until scar tissue takes over that function.

For larger and very active dogs, surgeries involving cutting bones in the joint and repositioning them tend to have the best outcomes. These procedures include tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO) and tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA).

If you choose conservative therapy with a brace, have a custom brace made, which will minimize sores and give your dog the best chance of healing. For older dogs who are not good candidates for surgery, a brace may be the best option regardless of size.

Rehabilitation for Knee Injuries

No matter what treatment you and your veterinarian decide is best for your dog, aftercare is important. Careful postoperative protocols need to be followed exactly as directed by your veterinarian.

Rehabilitation will include passive range of motion exercises (PROM), a schedule of walks that build in distance and hills gradually, and additional exercises such as underwater treadmill. Laser and pulsed electro-magnetic field (PEMF) therapy may be suggested. Joint nutraceuticals may be recommended to support his joints and slow the inevitable development of arthritis. Sadly, 40% to 60% of the dogs who tear one cruciate will eventually tear the other.

Preventing Knee Injuries in Dogs

Your dog’s overall health can impact the likelihood of an injury and successful recovery. Keep your dog at his ideal weight. Look into an exercise program to strengthen his core muscles, including balance exercises, such as work on a wobble board or peanut. Be realistic about your dog’s conformation. As much as you may want to do agility or flyball, you might consider doing scentwork or Rally with your dog to further minimize the risk of injury.

The Right Way to Wash Your Dog’s Bed

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A boxer dog in its bed
Dog beds like this one, with stuffing that’s sewed into their bolstered sides (as opposed to the kind with bolsters that can be removed so the empty cover can be washed) sometimes require a commercial washing machine, like the extra-large front-loading washers found in laundromats. Photo by Kate Stoupas, Getty Images

Start laundering your dog’s bed by vacuuming the bed with a brush or upholstery attachment to remove dust, dirt, dander, and dog hair.

Check the bed’s cover for a tag that shows washing instructions or check with the manufacturer. Most removable covers can be hand-washed or placed in the washing machine, and some beds whose covers are not removable can be cleaned in the washer as well. If you find washing instructions, follow them.

Stain and odor removal

Treat stains before washing. Enzyme products such as Unique Pet Care’s Advanced Dog Odor + Stain Remover and Rocco and Roxie’s Extreme Stain & Odor Eliminator bind with and remove traces of urine, vomit, feces, blood, dog drool, musty smells, and doggy odors. Alternatively, these stains can be treated with 1 cup baking soda mixed with 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup water applied as a spray. Let stand 10 minutes and blot dry.

Plant-based laundry detergents are considered dog-friendly because they don’t contain dyes, fragrances, or harsh chemicals. Greenshield Organic Free and Clear Laundry Detergent, Dropps Stain and Odor Detergent, and similar products can clean your dog’s bed, as well as his blankets, vests, sweaters, and fabric leashes and collars.

Washing the bed

If the bed or cover can be machine-washed in hot water with a pet-safe detergent, doing so will help disinfect it. If a cold-water wash is recommended, check your results and run the bed or cover through the washer a second time if necessary.

To hand-wash a dog bed, fill a large sink, tub, or wading pool with warm water and add 1/2 cup baking soda. Soak the bed for 30 minutes, then drain and refill with hot, warm, or cold water, add pet-friendly detergent, and actively press the bed into soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well, then squeeze (don’t wring) the bed to remove water without causing its stuffing to shift or clump. Drain excess water with your washer’s spin cycle or gently roll the bed in large towels and stand on them to release water. Spread the bed outdoors in the shade or indoors with a blowing fan until dry.

How often should you wash the bed?

Some health experts recommend vacuuming a dog bed once a week and washing it once a month, but your best guide will be its condition. When it’s dirty, muddy, or the site of spills or accidents, assemble your cleaning supplies.

Once the bed is dry, keep it spotless and fresh smelling. Frequently sprinkle it with baking soda, let it stand half an hour, then vacuum, or spay and wipe the bed with equal parts vinegar and warm water. Treat new stains as soon as they occur by spot cleaning with a dog-safe stain remover. If the bed’s cover is removable, protect its mattress with an inner liner.

Bulging Eyes in Dogs

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This dog suffered a retrobulbar abscess, a pocket of infection behind her eye, which caused her eye to bulge. These infections can be caused by a dental problem (such as a cracked tooth), a puncture in the mouth (perhaps caused by a splinter from chewing a bone or stick), or the migration of a grass awn (foxtail). It resolved with antibiotics. ©Nancy Kerns

There are a number of reasons for a dog’s eye or eyes to begin bulging unnaturally. If you notice your dog has one or both eyes bulging, or has an oddly colored eye or a strange discharge from the eye—get your dog to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Time is of the essence for saving your dog’s vision. The bulging may be due to a swollen eyeball, which happens with glaucoma; swelling around the eyeball, which happens with infection and allergic reactions; or swelling behind the eyeball, which happens with infections, bleeding, or tumors. Glaucoma is painful, so your dog may act depressed and not want to eat. The eye will be red and look enlarged, the cornea may turn a bluish cloudy color, and there may be vision loss. Glaucoma is a veterinary emergency.

Flat-faced dogs with bulging eyes

Bulging eyes are most common in brachycephalic breeds of dogs—they’re the ones with the cute, smooshed-in faces like the Pug and Boston Terrier. These dogs naturally have shallow orbits, which are the bony sockets in the skull that house the eyeballs. Unfortunately, these dogs are at a higher risk of corneal injury. They are also prone to a terrible situation called proptosis in which the dog’s eyes pop out.

With proptosis, the eyeball pops out of the socket and the eyelids collapse behind it, essentially holding the eye out. This is a disaster that can happen in any dog due to trauma (usually a dog fight or vehicular incident), but it occurs most commonly in brachycephalic breeds due to their shallow sockets. Veterinary personnel are trained to avoid overzealously restraining a brachycephalic dog, as a person could literally pop the dog’s eyeballs out. Although proptosed eyeballs can sometimes be replaced, there is typically permanent damage to the optic nerve, which causes blindness. In most cases, the eyeball is surgically removed.

Bulging eyes in other dogs

Dogs of any breed can experience retrobulbar disease, which can take up enough space behind the eye to push the eyeball forward. This can be painful for the dog when he opens his mouth wide, such as when yawning. If you gently push on the eyeballs with the lids closed, you may notice you can push the normal eye in a bit, but the affected eye doesn’t budge. The most common causes of retrobulbar disease include tumors, abscesses, cysts, and hematomas. Treatment for periorbital disease depends on diagnosis, which usually requires advanced imaging like a CT scan.

An unusual cause of bulging eyes in dogs is extraocular myositis, which is an immune attack on the muscles that hold the eyeball in place. It occurs most frequently in young Golden Retrievers. The dog may appear to have a wide-eyed, surprised look all the time. Immediate veterinary care is needed to avoid permanent damage.

Alopecia In Dogs

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Alopecia in Dogs
In true alopecia, the skin is not growing any hair at all, as seen on this dog. Credit: JodiJacobson / Getty Images

Alopecia is the medical term for baldness. In dogs, alopecia refers to areas on the dog’s body that are not growing hair.

Most episodes of seasonal alopecia in dogs are not alopecia at all but routine turnovers of the coat or seasonal shedding. Your dog isn’t down to bare skin, he just looks naked compared to his usual haircoat. This is normal. When you see the hair turning dull and getting tufts or “pluckables,” this is a good time for a warm bath and a blow dry. Removing as much of the dead hair as possible encourages new growth.

You also may have heard of a dog “blowing her coat,” which is seen in many longhair dogs at puberty and in female dogs after a heat or having puppies. In these cases, most of the long guard hairs remain, but the softer, woolier undercoat that is gone. This is not alopecia.

True alopecia means the loss of all hair, and it is almost always secondary to another health problem. Many skin conditions can cause hair loss, including flea allergy, bacterial infections, or fungal infections. In almost all these cases, the skin is red, inflamed, moist, or has pustules and flaking. For these cases of alopecias, you need to diagnose and treat the primary problem, which may require your veterinarian’s help. A medicated shampoo or topical treatment will likely be prescribed. After treatment, the hair will grow back.

Chemotherapy can cause hair loss in some dogs but rarely causes the dramatic loss that many people experience.

Another cause in dogs is hormone or endocrine abnormalities such as Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism). With Cushing’s, your dog will have more clinical signs than just alopecia. He will have skin growths or tags and seborrhea. He will develop a potbelly appearance due to lack of muscle tone. Many dogs will pant and drink and urinate more than usual. Diagnosis will require bloodwork, both a normal chemistry panel plus specific tests for adrenal function. Medical therapy generally involves mitotane or trilostane, which will be required for life. Your dog will need periodic monitoring for side effects and to adjust the dose if needed.

Rarely, alopecia is caused by a poor diet. If this is the case, you will need the help of your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist to determine if your dog’s diet is deficient in important nutrients.

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