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Dog Cold Weather Gear: Dressing Your Dog for Winter

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Two sartorial terriers, Zoe and Zak, on a winter stump in front of Lake Tahoe.
Coats and boots keep your dog warm enough to get sufficient exercise in areas that have snowy or icy winter weather. Without protection like this, few dogs can safely take a really energy-burning, long walk in freezing temperatures. Photo by Patrice Beaumont, Getty Images.

Does your dog need a winter coat? If he spends most of the day indoors, has a thin, short coat, and shivers when it’s chilly, a cold-weather jacket can help him adjust to winter temperatures for cold-weather walks – or even just going outdoors to potty. Make that a raincoat if you live where it’s cold and wet. Most dog raincoats have two layers, a top one for repelling water and an insulating layer for warmth.

All kinds of keep-warm sweaters, vests, coats, jackets, and even whole-body suits for dogs are sold in pet supply stores, department stores, and online. Consider how active your dog will be outdoors and what garment shape, design, and fabric weight will work best. Washable blends of wool or polyester fleece (what “polar fleece” is made of) are popular because they’re comfortable for most dogs and easy to care for.

Before they became canine fashion accessories, jackets were designed for working dogs who spent hours outdoors – and may even swim! – in rain, snow, ice, and cold winds. Most jackets or vests for sporting and hunting dogs who need insulation when wet are made of neoprene – the same material used to make diving wetsuits for humans. If your dog joins you for hours of wet outdoor walks, search for a vest or jacket made with neoprene.

Measure For a Good Fit

Use a tape measure (the fabric kind used for sewing) to measure for a sweater, vest, coat, or jacket that will cover the dog’s chest and back. With the dog standing still with head up, measure:

  • Neck circumference, as for a collar.
  • From the collar down the spine to the base of the tail.
  • Around the chest directly behind the front legs.

Compare measurements to the manufacturer’s size chart. Some sellers list sizes based on your dog’s breed.

Dog Boots and Socks

Ice and snow, and rock salt and other ice-melting chemicals are hard on a dog’s feet, so consider keeping them warm and dry with the right footwear. The best dog boots are flexible, water-resistant, grip the ground with textured soles, and have adjustable Velcro straps. Popular brands include Kurgo, SaltSox, and Muttluks. Check size guidelines and measure before ordering. Most dogs dislike booties at first, so introduce them indoors for short periods or start by having your dog get used to indoor dog socks, which are designed with a non-skid surface to help older or injured dogs improve mobility.

Dog Snoods for Extra Winter Coverage

A snood looks like an extended hat that covers the head, ears, and neck, protecting them from wind, rain, and cold weather. One source is The Snood Factory, which makes snoods especially for breeds with long hair and long ears (but which are helpful winter wear for any dog at risk of frostbite!) or search online for dog snoods.

Dog Heating Pads

Heated dog beds, warming pads, and self-heating (non-electric) pads can help an arthritic, elderly, or simply cold dog or puppy feel comfortable, indoors or out. The best electric pads have chew-proof cords, timers that shut off automatically (or mechanisms that heat only when weighted by a dog), washable covers, and a heat limit that protects dogs against overheating. They come in different sizes and are clearly labeled for indoor or outdoor use. See K&H Pet Products or search Amazon, Chewy, and other suppliers for Riogoo, Frisco, Aspen, and similar brands.

Buy This Book!

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doggie language book
Doggie Language by Lili Chin is a great resource for any dog lover! ©Nancy Kerns

I recently asked one of our regular contributors to write an article explaining why dogs might display a teeth-chattering behavior. The article came back, and then it was my turn to look for a photograph of a dog with chattering teeth to accompany the article.

I spent HOURS looking through stock photos of dogs online, and as well as through the thousands of my own stock photos of dogs, which I’ve been taking for the more than 25 years that I’ve been editing WDJ. I have spent many hours taking photos of dogs in dog parks, and I thought the chances were good that I would find a frame of a dog with chattering teeth in those photos; I know I have observed the behavior at dog parks before. But – no luck. I couldn’t find a single frame of a dog whose mouth even slightly resembled the posture of teeth-chattering.

Then I remembered a very valuable resource about dog body language: Doggie Language: A Dog Lover’s Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend, by Lili Chin, dog illustrator extraordinaire. I just knew the behavior would be in the book, which I promoted in our 2021 “Gear of the Year” feature.

It turned out, that while Chin has captured and succinctly explained most of the critically important canine postures that all dog owners should know, from friendly nose touches to stiff, narrowly wagging tails, “chattering teeth” was not illustrated! But I’m aware that Chin has collaborated with and drawn educational dog-behavior illustrations for many professional force-free dog trainers, and offers these in poster form on her website, doggiedrawings.net. I looked through these for a while; there are some great infographics there! But nothing on teeth-chattering.

I was despondent, for a minute. But then I thought: “I’ll write to Lili! I’ll ask her if she has ever illustrated this anywhere ever before, and if I can use that illustration!”

And I did.

And she hadn’t.

But then, 15 minutes later, she sent me a note that said, “How is my five-minute effort?” with this:

dog teeth chattering illustration
Illustration by Lili Chin.

It’s perfect!  It captures a dog’s anxious expression, with softly flattened ears, a tentative posture, barely wagging tail, and a slightly puckered mouth – just how dogs often look when they chatter their teeth, whether that’s due to anxiety, or because they just smelled something interesting (like another dog’s urine), or because they are genuinely cold!

Doggie Language Is a Terrific Resource

Chin’s talent for capturing complex canine behavior in a simple illustration inspired me to recommend her book again now, at the perfect gift-giving time of year: it’s not expensive and it is easily procured (available anywhere books are sold, and if you want a signed copy, available from doggielanguagebook.com). It’s a great gift for anyone who loves dogs or has a new dog. It’s also available in 16 languages!

Ignore the fact that Doggie Language doesn’t cover “teeth chattering” – it’s a pretty subtle and not-very-common behavior. What the book does depict, with clear and simple illustrations and very brief explanations, are the most important words and phrases that dogs are telling us with their body language. Any trainer can tell you that few owners perceive the many signs of stress in their dogs – early warnings that they need space (and might bite to get it). How does a dog look when they are truly interested in exchanging affection with a person? How can you tell which dog is excited and friendly dog and which one is frantic and frustrated? Even a young child can recognize the differences using Chin’s illustrations and descriptions.

And, before I forget, if your dog sometimes chatters his teeth, and you want to learn more about that behavior, read “Chatter of Fact” here.

Do I Need a Dog Feeding Schedule?

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Dog waiting for feeding
For most adult dogs, a twice-a-day feeding schedule—12 hours apart—works best. Credit: Chalabala / Getty Images

Dogs like regular schedules, and that includes your dog’s feeding schedule. Most veterinarians recommend that dogs eat twice a day, approximately 12 hours apart. If it’s longer, you could cause nausea, as he gets hungry just like people do.

Feed your healthy adult dog twice a day. There is no best time to feed a dog. The time of day doesn’t matter as much as the time between meals. You can feed him at 5 p.m. or 9:30 p.m., provided you feed him at a roughly corresponding time the next morning. Don’t feed him at 6 p.m. on Friday night and then not until you wake up at 11:30 Saturday morning. If you need to change your dog’s feeding schedule, gradual changes over the course of 4 to 7 days are best.

You may need to adjust your dog feeding schedule by age or illness. Some canines, like puppies, seniors, nursing moms, and working/sporting dogs, need a lot of calories to maintain their weight and may need to be fed more often to accomplish that because you don’t want to overfeed him at a feeding. Some puppies need to eat four to six times a day.

If you do need to feed your dog more often, remember to feed smaller portions each time so you don’t overfeed him. If your dog needs four cups of food a day, and you feed him twice a day, that’s two cups in each feeding. If he cannot consume that much food at once, then you take the four cups and divide it evenly between the feedings.

Don’t feed your dog once a day, assuming he will eat when he’s hungry, sort of “free-choice.” He won’t. It’s most likely he’ll wolf it all down at once and be hungry 12 hours later. Free-choice feeding can make dog fat, and it can cause fights if you have more than one dog.

Feeding twice a day is an easy way to check on a dog’s health or to prepare him to adapt to changes, such as traveling or changing dog food. Two meals a day provides him with the stability he craves in his life, a tasty cornerstone that he can rely on. Feeding can also be a bonding moment between you and your dog.

Can Dogs Eat Corn?

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Dog running over harvested corn field in front of clouds.
Corn in dog food is ground, so your dog benefits from its nutrients. Corn on the cob is whole, so it is not well digested. In addition, corn cobs are not at all digestible and can make your dog sick. Credit: K_Thalhofer / Getty Images

Your dog can eat corn. Corn is a common a common ingredient in human foods, as well as pet foods. Corn in dog foods can be controversial, and some people claim that “corn is bad.” However, corn is not a filler in dog food; corn provides nutrition including carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins, antioxidants, and protein. So, why do people wonder if their dogs can eat corn? The main concerns with feeding corn to dogs are:

  • Dietary sensitivity to corn. While it is possible for a dog to have a sensitivity to corn that might cause gut or skin problems, most food sensitivities involve a protein. Corn is a carbohydrate. The most common dietary sensitivities in dogs are beef and chicken.
  • Concerns about a genetically modified organism (GMO) safety. Much of the corn grown today have tweaked DNA to give it better resistance against disease or environmental extremes. This results in a higher yield per acre. People fear GMOs because they are perceived as not natural, since the genetic modification occurs in a laboratory. While safety studies comparing GMO foods to “natural” foods are ongoing, none have clearly demonstrated a harmful trend.
  • Corn is thought to be not digestible. Corn kernels can be spotted in dog poop, leading to the thought that corn is not digestible. If a dog eats whole corn kernels, the outer casing of the kernel keeps the corn from effectively being digested, so they can be seen largely undigested coming out the other end. The corn in dog foods is ground to make it easier for the dog to absorb its nutrients.

A note of caution: Dogs cannot eat corn cobs. Corn cobs are not digestible. When a dog eats a corn cob, he risks choking or intestinal blockage (symptoms include vomiting, decreased appetite, diarrhea). Don’t give your dog corn cobs to chew, and don’t let them get into the garbage that contain corn cobs. If you hike ear crop land, don’t let your dogs eat or chew any leftovers that didn’t get harvested. If you are concerned that your dog has eaten corn cobs, contact your dog’s veterinarian.

What about popcorn? If you want to share popcorn with your dog, you can, but in moderation. Air-popped is best, as too much salt, butter, or other flavoring agents can give your dog a tummy ache.

How to Get a Urine Sample from a Dog

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Yellow Labrador retriever dog lifting leg to urinate in a grassy field
Male dogs who are happy to pee wherever the urge strikes make it pretty easy to get a clean urine catch. Dogs who squat are more challenging. Credit: Heather Paul / Getty Images

How much dog urine is needed for a sample? Not that much! Believe it or not, a teaspoon (5 milliliters) is enough to run a urinalysis. So even if it looks like you didn’t get much, bring it in to see if your veterinarian says it’s enough.

How to get a urine sample? Start by choosing a low-profile, large diameter container that is clean and dry. A foil pie plate works well. With the larger diameter, it’s easier to get under the dog and your aim doesn’t have to be spot on. Just nonchalantly get it in the general vicinity and you’ll usually be successful. Then pour the sample into a clean, dry, leakproof container and get it to your veterinarian ASAP.

It’s easy to get a urine sample from a dog, although you do need to be quick. Most male dogs who pee all the time, lift their leg, and don’t particularly care about potty privacy or personal space while urinating. The taller the dog, the easier. Females, puppies who squat, and male dogs who squat are a little tougher. But you can do it.

Smaller female dogs who squat low to the ground may take offense when you approach them while urinating. Try for first thing in the morning when you know her bladder is full. Make sure she is on a four- to six-foot lead, so she can’t get that far away from you and you’re not frantically running at her when she squats. If you are agile enough to squat, try the nonchalant pie plate approach described above. If you can’t physically get low enough, you can either purchase a canine urine collection kit, which looks like a saucer on the end of a pole, or you can duct tape a soup ladle to the end of a pole. Remember, whatever you use must be clean and dry.

If you can’t get the sample, don’t panic. When necessary, your veterinarian can collect a sample from your dog either straight from the bladder with a needle (cystocentesis) or via urethral catheterization.

The fresher the specimen, the more accurate the information is for your veterinarian. It’s not a bad idea to drive your dog over to the clinic and catch your sample right outside. If you’d rather not do that, plan to collect your sample when you can get to the clinic within a few hours. If you can’t get to the clinic right away, store the urine sample in the refrigerator, and be sure to let your vet know what time it was collected.

Skin Lesions and Cancer

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lump on a dog face
Of course, a big lump like the one on this dog’s face doesn’t develop overnight – but some types of lesions may be present though small for months or years and then suddenly swell in size. When you notice the emergence of a new lump, or a sudden change in the size or appearance of an old one, make an appointment to see your vet as soon as possible. Every type of potentially dangerous tumor is better diagnosed and removed sooner than later. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Finding a skin lesion or lump that was not there the last time you caressed your dog can instantly transform your mood from contented to fearful. Is it cancer? Many skin lesions and lumps look cancerous.

If it’s any comfort, you should know that few skin lesions turn out to be cancer – but that said, anything that is new or that has recently changed should be brought to the attention of your dog’s veterinarian, who can determine what’s up with the lump.

The veterinarian will examine the skin lesion, check your dog for any other lesions, and obtain a history from you about other relevant aspects of your dog’s health.

Although some skin lesions have a characteristic appearance that helps a veterinarian identify them as the most likely type of lesion or tumor, a definitive diagnosis can be made only by fine needle aspirate (FNA) with cytology (examining some of the cells that were removed with the needle under a microscope) or biopsy with histopathology (removing some tissue from the lesion and examining it under a microscope).

(See sidebar “Cytology and Biopsy,” for more information about how samples of your dog’s lesion may be collected and examined in pursuit of a diagnosis.)

Common Canine skin lesions

As you read this section about the most common skin lesions found on dogs, keep in mind that they may sound lethal, but that’s not necessarily so. Learning about them and understanding the best course of action for each will help lessen your fears. This information is designed to help you discuss the lesions with your veterinarian, so the two of you can determine what’s best for your dog.

  • Benign lipomas

Often referred to as “fatty tumors,” benign lipomas are solitary deposits of fat underneath the skin. They are round, smooth, and a little squishy. These are not cancerous tumors and do not need to be removed unless they are impairing a dog’s ability to move.

Benign lipomas can grow anywhere on the body, but are predominantly found on the chest, belly, and upper limbs. They begin as small masses, often the size of a marble or golf ball. Some lipomas change very little in size over a dog’s lifetime but some can grow to be the size of a cantaloupe.

  • Mast cell tumors

Mast cells are white blood cells; they are found in many areas of the body but are particularly prevalent in the skin. They are one of the cells involved in allergic responses and release histamine when activated.

A mast cell tumor is a proliferation of mast cells that forms a nodule on the skin. These tumors can be flat or raised; flesh-colored, pink, or red; and may be ulcerated. They may grow rapidly in as little as a week or may remain unchanged in size for months.

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog’s lesion is a mast cell tumor, an injection of diphenhydramine (Benadryl) may be given before aspirating it. When a mast cell tumor is poked or disturbed, it may release large amounts of histamine. This can cause anaphylaxis (a life-threatening allergic reaction)or can lead to the development of stomach ulcers. Diphenhydramine minimizes the risk of these events. Your veterinarian also may instruct you on how much Benadryl to give at home until the cytology results have been returned.

Mast cell tumors are often successfully diagnosed by FNA and cytology. But determining if the mast cell tumor is low grade or high grade requires biopsy and histopathology. Your vet will likely recommend surgical excision of the lesion if it is determined to be a mast cell tumor.

Mast cell tumors tend to have longer, microscopic roots traveling underneath the skin than other types of skin lesions. Your veterinarian may recommend that your dog see a board-certified veterinary surgeon for removal of the mass so that wider surgical margins can be obtained.

Mast cell tumors are more likely to be a low grade tumor than a high grade tumor. Low grade tumors are typically cured with complete surgical excision. High grade tumors are more likely to recur, either in the same location or in different locations. Dogs that have a high grade mast cell tumor would benefit from a consultation with an oncologist and may require chemotherapy with or without radiation therapy.

Although we do not know what causes mast cell tumors to grow, there appears to be some genetic mutations that increase the risk for developing mast cell tumors. Certain breeds of dogs – like the Boxer, Boston Terrier, and Labrador Retriever – are at increased risk for mast cell tumors.

Mast cell tumors can also affect the nail bed and internal organs, such as the spleen.

  • Cutaneous histiocytomas

Like mast cells, a cutaneous histiocytoma is a proliferation of cells involved with the immune system. Instead of mast cells, however, histiocytomas are composed of a histiocyte called a Langerhans cell.

This is a benign tumor that often has a similar appearance to mast cell tumors. Histiocytomas are most commonly found in dogs less than 6 years old. They initially grow rapidly and then often remain the same size until they spontaneously regress and disappear a few months later.

Histiocytomas are often readily diagnosed by FNA and cytology. Because they can appear similar to mast cell tumors, it is important to complete this diagnostic test to confirm the type of lesion. If the lesion is a histiocytoma, no further intervention is necessary. It will regress and resolve on its own.

  • Squamous cell carcinomas

Squamous cell carcinomas are tumors of the squamous cells in the epidermis, or top layer of skin. This tumor can be a small, raised area on the skin surface that looks like a wart but is often red, irritated, or ulcerated.

Squamous cell carcinoma is most often found on areas of the body that have a thinner hair coat, like the ears, near the lips or along the top of the nose, and the underside of the belly. Dogs with short-haired coats, and particularly those with light-colored coats, are at increased risk for developing squamous cell carcinoma.

Although the direct cause of squamous cell carcinoma is unknown, it is suspected that exposure to sunlight and other forms of ultraviolet (UV) light increases the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma.

Squamous cell carcinoma often appears as a single lesion on the skin. Surgical removal of the tumor is the treatment of choice as these tumors tend to be locally invasive and don’t typically spread.

There are two forms of squamous cell carcinoma that are more serious than the singular lesions that can appear on a dog’s skin. The first is multicentric squamous cell carcinoma. This is a very rare condition of dogs in which more than one lesion appears on multiple areas of the body.

The second is squamous cell carcinoma of the nail bed. This appears first as a swollen digit and can cause deformation or loss of the claw. This form of squamous cell carcinoma is metastatic, meaning that it can spread to other areas of the body, such as the lungs. Presurgical staging and amputation of the affected digit is often recommended.

  • Melanomas

Melanoma is a type of skin cancer that is derived from the abnormal growth of melanocytes, the pigmented cells of the skin. Although we don’t know the cause of melanomas in dogs, there is an association between high levels of UV exposure and the development of melanomas in humans.

There are three different forms of melanoma in dogs. Cutaneous melanoma is typically a brown or black lesion that has a flat or wrinkled appearance. There is a form of this melanoma called amelanotic melanoma that contains no pigment and may be flesh-colored. Cutaneous melanoma tends to be benign in dogs and surgical excision of the skin lesion is typically curative.

The other two types of melanoma in dogs are oral melanoma and digit melanoma. These are typically malignant tumors that can spread to other areas of the body. Treatment includes extensive surgical excision of the mass; for an affected digit, this includes amputation. Histopathology of the tumor can determine the grade of melanoma and appropriate follow-up care with an oncologist. A melanoma vaccine called ONCEPT may be recommended to train your dog’s immune system to find and eliminate malignant melanoma cells.

Melanoma tumors do not exfoliate well when aspirated. If your veterinarian suspects that a lesion may be a melanoma, then a surgical incisional or excisional biopsy may be recommended instead of an FNA.

  • Glandular and follicular tumors

These are tumors that arise from the glands within the skin or from within the hair follicle. They look like a fleshy, raised irregular growth and are often called warts because of their appearance.

These tumors can grow and shrink in size over time. When the tumor grows, it often fills with a thick caseous fluid that resembles cottage cheese. The tumor will often burst, or erupt, releasing this thick fluid. As the tumor dries out, it shrinks but never completely disappears.

Glandular and follicular tumors are typically benign but can be malignant in rare cases. An FNA of the mass will often confirm that it is a glandular or follicular tumor but is usually not good at determining if it is malignant or benign. Surgical excision with histopathology of the mass is often needed to confirm the type and determine if follow-up care with an oncologist is necessary.

  • Cutaneous lymphoma

Lymphoma is a cancer of lymphocytes, which are a type of white blood cell. When we think of lymphoma in dogs, we often think of the condition that causes enlarged, painful lymph nodes or that creates tumors on the spleen, liver, or other organs in the abdomen or chest. However, lymphoma can appear anywhere there are lymphocytes; this includes the skin.

Cutaneous lymphoma appears as small red patches on the skin that are often circular or oval shape. These patches may look irritated or ulcerated. They can look similar to skin lesions caused by other diseases, like atopic dermatitis. The cause of cutaneous lymphoma is unknown.

Dogs with cutaneous lymphoma may have decreased energy and appetite. Cutaneous lymphoma can produce a protein that increases the calcium level in a dog’s blood. The increased calcium causes the dog to drink more water and urinate more.

Cutaneous lymphoma is diagnosed by incisional biopsy of one or more skin lesions. The treatment of choice is chemotherapy.

  • Fibrosarcomas

A fibrosarcoma is a tumor of the connective tissue in the body. Connective tissue is found in many areas of the body, including the skin.

A fibrosarcoma may appear as a firm nodule within or just underneath the skin. The skin over the mass will likely appear normal, but the mass will feel like a firm nodule the size of a pea or a marble.

Although the cause of fibrosarcomas is not known, it is suspected that previous trauma is a potential risk factor. Previous trauma may include an injury to the skin, foreign material (like a grass awn or foxtail) within or just underneath the skin, or any type of injection (this is more common in cats than dogs).

Most fibrosarcomas in dogs are benign and slow to grow. However, even benign fibrosarcomas tend to be locally invasive. It is best to surgically remove this type of tumor when it is small and can be more easily removed. Pre-surgical staging may be necessary to determine the extent of the tumor. Referral to a board-certified veterinary surgeon may be recommended to achieve the best possible outcome.

Don’t panic!

Finding a new skin lesion on your dog can be concerning. Thankfully, most skin lesions are benign but should be addressed in a timely manner. Your veterinarian will guide you through the process of diagnosing and treating any new skin lesion you find.

Cytology and Biopsy

Fine needle aspiration (FNA) involves inserting a needle into the lesion to obtain a sample of cells. The sample is sprayed onto a slide and submitted to a laboratory for a veterinary pathologist to read. The needle used to obtain the sample is no bigger than the one used to give your dog a vaccine. Your dog will feel only a small pinch during the FNA procedure.

The cytology will return one of three results: a definitive answer as to the type of lesion; the class of lesion but no information about whether it is benign or malignant; or no definitive answer at all. Some lesions do not exfoliate well – they don’t release any intact cells to examine. Other lesions bleed easily when they are aspirated. When this happens, there is so much blood present on the slide that cells from the lesion cannot readily be seen under a microscope. This is called hemodilution.

Surgical biopsy (also called an incisional biopsy) is where a sample of the skin lesion is surgically removed. An incisional biopsy may be recommended if the lesion is in a location where removing all of it may be difficult or if there are multiple lesions that appear identical. The sample is sent out to the laboratory for histopathology (examination under a microscope after they have been stained with dye).

Surgical excision (also called an excisional biopsy) is where the entire skin lesion is removed and sent out for histopathology. Your veterinarian will need to make an elliptical incision around the lesion that is at least 1 centimeter wider on either side to remove all of the lesion. Skin lesions tend to extend their roots underneath the skin’s surface, much like a tree extends its roots below the ground. An elliptical incision is easier to close with a better cosmetic outcome than a circular incision.

Histopathology of the lesion helps to determine what additional treatments may be necessary. For an incisional biopsy sample, histopathology determines if the lesion needs to completely removed and if any presurgical imaging is required, such as radiographs, ultrasound, or CT scan. For an excisional biopsy, histopathology determines if clean margins were obtained when removing the lesion. It also helps guide any need for oncology care or further monitoring following removal of the lesion.

Chatter of Fact: Why Do Dogs Chatter Their Teeth?

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dog chattering graphic

Not all dogs chatter their teeth, and the ones that do tend to do it infrequently and unpredictably, so finding a photograph of a dog chattering away proved impossible for us! Perhaps the most consistent occurrence of the behavior happens (sometimes) when a dog sniffs the urine of another dog. Illustration by Lili Chin, doggiedrawings.net

Not all dogs will chatter their teeth. But among those who do, it can happen for a variety of reasons, including:

General excitement or anticipation. Think about when your dog is most likely to chatter her teeth. Is it part of her “happy dance” routine as you pick up the leash for a walk or as he happily greets you when you return from work? What about when you’re about to throw a favorite toy or as you prepare a meal?

If any of these scenarios sound familiar, the chattering is likely from excitement and is nothing to worry about. Enjoy it for the endearing quirk that it is.

In response to an amazing smell. Has your dog ever chattered his teeth after sniffing the ground where other dogs have been? Dogs rely heavily on scent to navigate the world, and they have highly developed scenting systems. This includes the vomeronasal organ (also known as the Jacobson’s organ), which is located inside the nasal cavity and opens at the roof of the mouth. Chattering his teeth and using his tongue can move scent molecules into the vomeronasal organ where they can be deciphered by your dog. When a dog does this after smelling the urine of another dog, this is known as the “flehman response.”

Again, it’s nothing to worry about.

Low body temperature. Like us, dogs will shiver when cold. A shiver happens when muscles in the body rapidly contract and relax to create energy to help warm the body. This can include jaw twitches and spasms that make the teeth chatter. Young dogs, elderly dogs, breeds with very little body fat, and toy breeds can have a harder time generating enough heat to maintain proper body temperature in cold conditions.

If your pup’s teeth chatter when the temperature drops, try a well-fitting sweater to keep him comfortable – nobody likes to be cold! (And of course, don’t leave your dog outside unprotected from the elements in inclement weather.)

Medical reasons. Since our dogs can’t tell us what’s bothering them, it’s important that we pay attention to their behavior and body language, as it can often offer clues about how they’re feeling.

Teeth chattering in the absence of an exciting situation, amazing smell, or chilly conditions could be a sign of pain, a dental issue or a neurological issue, and it’s a good idea to schedule a vet visit to help determine the cause and keep your dog comfortable.

Disregard the 3-3-3 Rule

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Family taking home a dog from the animal shelter giving new home
This family is clearly happy to have adopted a new dog – but they are doing everything wrong to welcome him to their family, whether it’s day 1, 3, or 33! A dog should not be greeted in a scrum and should never be forcibly restrained when meeting new people or dogs. Having just one person reach to pet the top of the dog’s head is a mistake; having the whole family do it at the same time is begging for a dog bite. Until the dog shows that he’s comfortable with your family, give him space and allow him to greet people at his own pace. The slower you move, the more quickly he can decompress. Photo © kzenon | Getty Images

Have you heard about the 3-3-3 decompression rule? We’ve seen memes about it everywhere on social media. It says your new dog will likely feel overwhelmed for the first three days, will settle in and feel more comfortable in your home by the end of three weeks, and after three months will be feeling secure in her new home. By this time, according to the adage, you and your dog will have developed a secure loving bond and trusting relationship.

This sounds lovely – but there is a huge problem with it. It’s a formula, and dogs are living, thinking, sentient individuals who don’t follow formulas.

Certainly there is wisdom in the advice to give your dog time to settle in. He needs time to recover from the stress of life in a shelter kennel or foster home – and then adoption and rehoming! There is no doubt that most dogs will go through an adjustment period when they come to live with you. It’s important to know this before you adopt a dog; your new canine family member may ultimately act very differently than when you first met her.

Phases of a rehomed dog’s decompression

Rather than set expectations for specific time frames, let’s discuss how to help your new dog cope during three big adjustment phases:

  • The Shellshock Phase. When you first bring her home, your dog may be overwhelmed. She may shut down, refuse to eat or drink, soil her crate, vocalize, try to escape, and/or otherwise behave inappropriately. And it may take her much longer than three days to get through this phase! Try to let go of any forecasts you’ve heard for how long it will take for her to decompress and de-stress.

Do everything you can to minimize her stress: Give her space; don’t overwhelm her with attention; remove anything that is obviously fear-causing; be calm, quiet, and gentle with her; and do everything slowly – for as long as it takes. (Note that some dogs skip this phase altogether and walk in your door and start behaving as if they have lived with you their whole lives; that’s the best! – but not that common.)

  • The Settle-In Phase. Your dog has worked through her initial stress and is settling in, getting used to the routine and opening up more. If she was shut down in the first phase, you’ll likely see new behaviors now – the “real” dog! Some of these behaviors may be undesirable ones, so you might have to increase your management. On the plus side, now that she’s more comfortable, you can interact with her more and begin your force-free training program.
  • The Rest-Of-Her-Life Phase. Your dog has settled into her new life, and the two of you truly have that secure, loving bond and trusting relationship. It may have taken three months – or three years! In any case, enjoy the rest of your lives together.

Dog Nail Trimming Thoughts

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just trimmed dog nails
Post-trim feet from left to right: Boone, Woody, Otto. © Nancy Kerns

No one likes trimming their dogs’ nails. But it has to be done. Owning multiple dogs makes it worse! But when I notice everyone click, click, clicking across my kitchen floor, or take a picture of them where their nails look long, I often stop what I’m doing on the spot and grab the clippers.

Old dogs’ nails grow the fastest – or do they? No, it just seems that way with older dogs. They are likely growing at the same rate as ever, but because senior dogs exercise less, and move more carefully, they wear their nails down less, making it necessary to trim those crusty, thick, old nails more often.

The nails of older dogs do seem to grow thicker and stronger with age, making them (especially in big dogs) more difficult to cut, or take longer to Dremel. Ugh! I just realized, however, that I don’t remember when I bought the clippers I’m using; they have probably gotten dull with age. As soon as I’m done clipping everyone’s nails today, I’m ordering some new clippers.

I own a variety of nail-trimming tools, picked up for various uses (and articles) at various times. I use a Dremel grinding tool to smooth and shape the nails after I cut cut them with a plier-style trimmer. I loathe the guillotine-style trimmers, where you have to poke the nail to be cut through a little window before squeezing the handles to slice through the nail. They cut really well, but getting the nail through that little hole and keeping it still long enough, in just the right spot for the slice – well, in my experience, dogs often jerk or move just enough to cause an over-aggressive slice into the quick. Ouch! And while I own a nice nail grinder, I don’t like to use the grinder alone to shorten my dog’s nails. You have to be super careful to grind for only a second or two, and then back away the grinder away for a second or two, in a repetitive grind-release, grind-release motion, or the nail you are grinding gets HOT and causes a burning sensation to the dog.

dog nail trimming tools
Tools of the trade: Guillotine style clippers, plier style clippers, rotary grinder, nail file. ©Nancy Kerns

As I trim the nails of 15-year-old Otto, I notice that his front nails are longer than those of my other two dogs – but the nails on his back feet don’t need any trimming at all. This is likely because his nails get a tiny scraping whenever he fails to completely lift his back feet as he walks. Dogs with serious injuries or partial paralysis who drag one or both of their hind legs visibly often need to wear something on their hind feet to protect the nails (and even the toes themselves) from getting worn down to the point of pain. The wear on Otto’s back nails confirms what I see as the highly arthritic senior walk around my property; he’s not lifting his back feet all the way off the ground all the time. Fortunately, the growth of the back nails is keeping pace with the wear; I can skip clipping those nails but don’t need to order protective booties at this time.

Most of 7-year-old Woody’s nails are white. This makes clipping them a pleasure, because I can readily see the “quick” through the nail, and can clip them fairly short without risk of hurting him with an errant snip. However, white nails tend to be softer and more breakable; they seem to at a higher risk of breaking or tearing, something he’s done more than once – and which always seems to happen the minute I think to myself, “Ooh, Woody’s nails are getting long. I should trim them.” (See this article, which features a gruesome picture of one of his broken nails.) That’s probably why he’s the best sport I have about getting his pedicures; he’s been “quicked” the least.

At almost 1-year-old, Boone’s nails are still pointy and puppy-like. As black as they are, and growing thicker with age, it’s still easy to clip through them – when he holds still. I haven’t quicked him yet; he just hates having his feet handled. We’ve been working on that since he was a chunky little puppy with a propensity for collecting clover burrs in the bottoms of his fuzzy feet. He’s still learning to cooperate for nail trims, and requires a treat for every single nail I clip. If I try to trim two in a row, he yanks his paw away and gives me an aggrieved look. The deal we’ve agreed upon over the past few months is one nail, one treat, and he’s not re-negotiating the terms any time soon. Fair enough.

At least all my dogs are big and do wear their nails a reasonable amount; I have to trim them only about every three to four weeks. Woody’s best little buddy Samson, who doesn’t weigh quite five pounds, needs his nails trimmed every other week. I think it’s because he’s so light, he doesn’t tread on his nails with enough pressure to wear them even one iota! As a result, his nails always are a bit too long.

The only time they get trimmed back to a painful but proper length is when he’s gone under anesthesia for a dental and the vet staff took the opportunity to get close to, or even into the quick. But it’s really difficult to maintain them at that length; I think his owner would have to be using a Dremel grinder on them once or twice a week – and like many little dogs, he is not the least bit cooperative about this. Why it’s so difficult to convince tiny dogs to hold still for nail trims, I do not know, but my friend has found that it works best to take Samson to a groomer. He’s much more compliant for strangers.

I was talking with a client at my friend’s training business recently, who said she has to administer Trazodone to her 10-year-old miniature Australian Shepherd before each vet, grooming, or nail appointment. She adopted the dog as a rescue from a breeding facility, where the little dog received zero socialization and exposure to the world, and is highly fearful about handling and novel situations. That’s quite a committed owner, taking on that extra expense to keep the little dog from being traumatized by being forcibly restrained for routine care procedures.

Most owners can learn how to trim their own dogs nails, and with patience, most dogs can be taught to cooperate for nail trims (here’s how), but I don’t judge anyone who takes their dogs to a groomer or vet for nail trims – however it gets done most easily and most often is the best way, for the health of your dog’s feet and for his comfort!

Dogs, Learning, and Love

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The first issue of WDJ was published in 1998. A month after the first issue came out, my son turned 6 years old; later that year, my Border Collie, Rupert, turned 9 years old. Rupie made it to 14 years old. After his death, I took a break and only fostered dogs and puppies for a couple years before I adopted Otto, seen with me in the photo here (and illustrated on the cover masthead).

Otto just turned 15 years old. I’m not certain he will be here in January for the first issue in our 26th year of publication – but he might! He’s increasingly rickety and nearly totally deaf, but he’s still grousing at the younger dogs and running (slowly) to bark at the gate when he sees a mail truck, cleaning up all his food, and giving me a big “Wuhwoooooo!” when I come home, so he just might!

The “Editor’s note” picture for the first few years of Whole Dog Journal, with Nancy and Rupert. © Nancy Kerns

Twenty-five years of writing something personal about my dogs for this page, two “heart dog” lifetimes. Wow.

Eli and Rupert both were pressed into service as models for the magazine from its first year. This photo is from a 1998 article about hand-held heat-generating pads that can be used to hold over and massage a dog’s achy muscles. © Nancy Kerns

As I write this, I’m putting plans in place for a friend to care for Otto and almost 1-year-old Boone while I’m out of town for my son’s wedding. I’ve rented a house where my extended family can all stay together over a long weekend of wedding-related fun. My now 7-year-old dog Woody gets to join us in the rented home, because he’s my most dependable dog with kids. He loves, loves, loves little kids; he rivals the famous (fictional) Carl in that respect. We’ll have 1-year old and 6-year-old grandsons in the house, and a 4-year-old great nephew. And we’ll go to the beach together! Woody’s going to think he’s gone to heaven.

Only the soon-to-be-married couple are allowed to bring a dog to the wedding site, a beautiful outdoor location in the coastal redwoods. I know that Cole, my son’s hound – his first “own” dog – will be a perfect gentleman at the wedding. My son and his bride are some of the best dog owners I know. I am confident that when they have children, they will be the best parents I know, too – just based on how great they are with Cole: attentive, active, warm, and fun-loving. And Cole will be a terrific big “brother.” He’s practiced with their friends’ babies for a few years; he’s great at cleaning baby faces and retrieving baby toys.

Eli and his wife Natasha are terrific dog owners, and Cole is going to be a great big “brother” someday. ©Nancy Kerns

Time marches on. If we’re lucky, it allows us to continue to learn, enjoy our work, expand our families – human and canine – and accept our losses with grace. I’ve been incredibly lucky – and I’m so grateful to you for your support of our work, for your interest in learning more about our canine friends, and for allowing me to share my family – human and canine – with you. Here’s to more time, learning, and love!

Why Do People Crop Dog Ears?

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Some people cropped dogs ears to prevent injury in working breeds.
Fashions come and go in the dog world. The ears of Great Danes are sometimes left in a natural state, or may be cropped in one of three styles: a tall, elaborate pointed shape for show dogs; a “pet crop, ” which is a more medium length and not as slender as a show crop, or a short crop, where most of the ear flap is removed. Photo © Christopher Bernard | Getty Images

Ear cropping is the surgical removal of most or all of a dog’s ear pinna—the flexible part of a dog’s outer ear. The procedure is often followed by several weeks of splinting and bandaging to ensure that the remaining ear pinna stands erect as it grows. This is a purely cosmetic procedure, done to substantially alter a dog’s natural appearance to one that is preferred by some enthusiasts of certain breeds (such as the Doberman Pinscher, Great Dane, and American Staffordshire Terrier).

Why Do People Crop Some Dogs’ Ears?

People crop the ears of certain breeds of dogs to meet a cosmetic appearance, sometimes to honor or replicate a putative function. Breeds that were developed to be barn ratters, such as the Miniature Pinscher and Brussels Griffon, historically had their ears cropped. This was done to minimize the risk of injury to the ear pinna should they be bitten on the ear by their prey.

Today, these breeds are more commonly used as companion animals rather than barn ratters. But some breeders continue to crop the ears of these breeds to maintain the look related to their historic function.

The most heinous reason for cosmetic ear cropping also has historical roots. Many of the “bully breeds” (including the American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull Terrier) were once used for dog fighting. In those inhumane “sports,” the fighting dogs often had their ears severely cropped to prevent an opponent from gaining an advantage by biting the sensitive pinna.

Somehow, that closely cropped look has become synonymous with toughness—an attribute admired by fans of those breeds. This seems to be the basis of the reason that it has become a common practice for people who raise dogs of these breeds, or even mixed breeds of the “bully” type, to crop the ears of all the puppies they raised for sale, whether the dogs are intended for fighting or not.

Another reason that some breeds have historically had cropped ears is the belief that dogs with erect ears have enhanced hearing compared to those with non-erect ears. Boxers, for example, developed as working dogs with a history of being employed as police dogs and seeing-eye dogs. This breed traditionally had their ears cropped to improve their hearing for the roles they played as working dogs.

However, there is no evidence that ear cropping enhances a dog’s hearing. It’s more likely that removing part of the ear pinna alters how sounds are funneled into the dog’s ear canal; cropping may actually decrease their hearing acuity.

How Are Dogs’ Ears Cropped?

Ear cropping is typically done when a puppy is between 6 and 12 weeks of age. When performed by a veterinarian, the procedure is done under general anesthesia.

Analgesia (pain medication) is administered to minimize discomfort during the procedure. Animals perceive pain even when anesthetized, so it is important to manage the potential for pain before it is inflicted. The ear pinna is very sensitive and contains many nerve endings. As a veterinarian, I believe strongly that postoperative pain management is necessary, but it’s not always provided.

Just before surgery, the puppy’s ears are shaved and scrubbed with antibacterial soap. The pinnas are then trimmed to the desired shape and size, using a scalpel, surgical scissors, and/or a laser. The cut edges are sutured and bandaged; sometimes foam and glue is also used to help “train” the newly cut ears to stand erect.

Some puppies have their ears cropped at home by a lay person, either a breeder or someone who claims proficiency in completing the procedure. In this case, the procedure is performed when the puppy is awake and often without any analgesics. The ear pinna is removed with a pair of scissors or another sharp instrument. The cleanliness standards of a surgical procedure performed in a veterinary hospital are not adhered to and the risks of infection and hemorrhage are high.

Regardless of who performs the ear cropping procedure, there is potential for post-operative complications, the most common being infection and pain. As the surgical site heals, it becomes itchy and irritated. This can cause a dog to scratch at his ears, leading to additional trauma to the healing skin that may require a second surgical procedure to repair.

The ear-cropping surgery is not the end of the procedure, however. Most breeds require a significant amount of after-care—a few weeks for the smaller-breed dogs, but as much as nine months for larger breeds—to ensure that the cropped ears remain erect. Any scabs that form on the cut edges of the ear need to be softened with warm compresses and removed. The bandages and any supportive “posts” used to keep the ear erect need to be kept dry and clean and changed frequently.

It can be quite a challenge to keep a young, active puppy from scratching at or rubbing his ears—and to keep his playmates from biting at or licking the bandages. He may need to wear an Elizabethan collar (“cone”) for months to protect the surgery sites and keep any supportive taping or posts in place. The stakes are high; if the cropped ears are not properly cared for, infection (requiring additional vet visits and antibiotics) and/or disfigured ears can result.

Ear Cropping is Controversial

While the American Kennel Club (AKC) and some breeders support the practice of ear cropping, many organizations and people do not.

Most veterinary professional organizations around the world have issued statements that oppose ear cropping. In the United States, these organizations include the American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Animal Hospital Association. The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals in both Australia and the United Kingdom also have taken stands against ear cropping.

Ear cropping has been banned in several countries around the world, including Australia, most of Europe, and two Canadian provinces. A law banning ear cropping was recently passed in Quebec and is slated to take effect in February 2024.

In the United States, only nine states restrict the procedure of ear cropping. No state completely bans the procedure. Proponents of the passage of these laws cite pain, the potential for short- and long-term complications, and the lack of functional reasons to crop ears.

While some people prefer the look of certain dog breeds with cropped ears, ear cropping is not medically necessary and may harm the dog. When selecting a breeder for a dog breed that traditionally has cropped ears, ask about the procedure, then select a breeder that matches your goals and your conscience.


Dog Breeds Whose Ears Are Commonly Cropped
  • Affenpinscher
  • American Staffordshire Terrier
  • Beauceron
  • Boston Terrier
  • Bouvier de Flandres
  • Boxer
  • Briard
  • Brussels Griffon
  • Cane Corso
  • Doberman Pinscher
  • Dogo Argentino
  • German Pinscher
  • Giant Schnauzer
  • Great Dane
  • Manchester Terrier
  • Miniature Pinscher
  • Neopolitan Mastiff
  • Pyrenean Shepherd
  • Standard Schnauzer
Is Ear-Cropping Required for Purebreds?

Breed standards are created by the “parent clubs” for each breed, and maintained by kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC). A breed standard defines the accepted appearance, gait, and temperament of that dog breed. The breed standard is the blueprint to which all dogs of that breed are compared, used by judges to determine the best entrants that represent that breed in conformation classes.

Ear cropping is recognized in the AKC breed standards for about 20 breeds of dogs but is not required for you to register your dog. Some breed standards list a preference for cropped ears. For example, the Doberman Pinscher standard says, “Ears normally cropped and carried erect.” Breeders who show their Dobermans with natural, uncropped ears often do not place in conformation competition as highly as dogs with cropped ears because they are not meeting that element of the standard.

Ear Cropping Can Affect How Dogs Are Socially Received
©Classic Stock | Getty Images

Breed standards are created by the “parent clubs” for each breed, and maintained by kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC). A breed standard defines the accepted appearance, gait, and temperament of that dog breed. The breed standard is the blueprint to which all dogs of that breed are compared, used by judges to determine the best entrants that represent that breed in conformation classes.

Ear cropping is recognized in the AKC breed standards for about 20 breeds of dogs but is not required for you to register your dog. Some breed standards list a preference for cropped ears. For example, the Doberman Pinscher standard says, “Ears normally cropped and carried erect.” Breeders who show their Dobermans with natural, uncropped ears often do not place in conformation competition as highly as dogs with cropped ears because they are not meeting that element of the standard.

Medical Reasons for Surgery On the Ear Pinna
Ear cropping is not the same as surgically removing a damaged portion of an ear pinna or surgical repair of an aural hematoma (blood-filled swelling on the ear pinna). An ear pinna can become damaged during a fight with another animal, such as wildlife or another dog. Cancerous tumors can develop on the ear pinna, warranting removal of the tumor and the part of the ear pinna on which it resides.

How to Identify and Buy Therapeutic-Quality Essential Oils

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dog and essential oil diffuser
Ultrasonic diffusers are the best way to deliver aromatherapy to your dog. The best diffusers for dogs efficiently deliver the therapeutic mist for 15 to 30 minutes, then shut themselves off. That’s enough time to saturate your dog’s (and your) olfactory system; any more can be too much! If you don’t have a programmable model, set a timer and turn the diffuser off manually. If another dose is needed, wait three to four hours before repeating. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Aromatherapy diffusers release essential oils, scenting the air with chemicals that affect minds and bodies. Depending on the oils it contains, a diffuser can help calm an anxious dog, lift a sad dog’s spirits, address specific symptoms, or help clear an area of airborne pathogens.

Are diffusers BAD for dogs?

Any improperly used essential oil or aromatherapy accessory can harm your canine best friend, so it’s important to understand how essential oil diffusers work and how to use them safely. If you follow the advice of experienced canine aromatherapists and use only therapeutic-quality oils that are safe for dogs, diffusers are good, not bad, for dogs.

Which diffuser type is best for dogs?

There are several types of diffusers:

A simple passive diffuser (cotton ball, tissue, fabric, or piece of clay) holds a drop of oil in place while it evaporates.

A candle or heat diffuser consists of a ceramic or glass bowl that sits on top of a tea light or gentle heating element. Drops of essential oil placed in the bowl with or without water evaporate as the bowl is warmed.

An ultrasonic diffuser disperses essential oil molecules in a cool mist. Place water in the diffuser’s reservoir, add 3 to 5 drops of essential oil, and sound waves generated by the diffuser’s metal disc will agitate the water, vaporizing essential oil molecules. A built-in fan carries the scented mist into the room.

A nebulizing diffuser produces a mist without the use of water by breaking essential oils into fine particles. Nebulizing diffusers produce the most concentrated aromatherapy mists.

Aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland at Frogworks in Littleton, Colorado, has been blending essential oils for animals since 1996. She prefers ultrasonic diffusers because they are more efficient than passive or heat diffusers; they are also less intense and safer than nebulizing diffusers for use around pets.

Cleveland recommends using an ultrasonic diffuser that can release an essential oil mist for 15 to 30 minutes and then turn itself off. She explains, “After 30 minutes the olfactory system is saturated with essential oils and needs relief from the aromas. Diffusing essential oils for too long can create the opposite effect from what you are trying to make.” If you feel another dose is needed, wait at least three to four hours before the next inhalation.

Benefits of diffused essential oils

Diffused essential oils do far more than smell fragrant. Inhaled essential oils, says Cleveland, affect every part of the body: They enter through the nose, then move to the olfactory region, lungs, brain, bloodstream, cerebrospinal fluid, tissue, and internal organs before being excreted by the kidneys.

In her book The Aromatic Dog: Essential Oils, Hydrosols, and Herbal Oils for Everyday Dog Care: A Practical Guide (Off the Leash Press, 2015), British aromatherapist Nayana Morag recommends diffusion for:

  • Fears and phobias, including fireworks.
  • Separation anxiety and other mental stress.
  • Tension in relationships between dogs and other animals or people.
  • Clearing airborne bacteria, preventing the spread of disease.

In addition, diffusers can:

  • Freshen your home by helping to remove odors.
  • Promote deep breathing.
  • Relieve stress.
  • Help with training by boosting your dog’s concentration and focus.
  • Help dogs recover from accidents or injury by promoting deep rest and recuperation.

Where to place your diffuser

Position your diffuser so it’s out of your dog’s reach and safe from being explored or knocked over. Don’t place it directly on rugs, upholstery, or wood furniture that could be harmed by spills or humidity.

“When you use an ultrasonic diffuser,” says Cleveland, “the diffused essential oils will drift through the room so that all who are in the room will inhale them.” She recommends placing the diffuser on a counter or table in a well-ventilated room with at least one open door, so that the dog being treated has a way to leave the room if he decides to do so. “For example,” she says, “don’t put your dog in a closet with a diffuser.”

Let your dog choose

Cleveland practices zoopharmacognosy, a term that describes how animals self-medicate with plants and soils to treat and prevent disease.

“For any condition, there are several essential oils that could help,” she says. “I let the dog smell each of them, usually by offering the cap. If she runs to the other side of the room or turns her head away, that’s not the right oil to use. Don’t ever force an essential oil on your dog. Wait for her to find an oil she’s interested in, one that she wants to smell more of. She may even try to lick the cap.”

Read “Top 20 Essential Oils for Dogs” for more information.

What essential oils are safe for dogs?

Cleveland’s favorite essential oils to diffuse around dogs are bergamot, frankincense, and vetiver. Lavender is recommended at most aromatherapy websites, but over the years, Cleveland has noticed very few dogs choosing lavender essential oil, so she recommends offering alternatives.

The essential oil of bergamot (Citrus bergamia) is pressed from the peel of this plant’s fruit and is recommended for anxiety, depression, and stress-related conditions. “Its cooling and refreshing quality seems to soothe anger and frustration,” says Cleveland. “Some sources warn that bergamot is toxic to pets, but I have diffused it for more than 20 years with no problems. I use it to help dogs with depression, the loss of a loved one, and anxiety. This is a great oil for rehabilitating abused animals.”

One of bergamot’s chemical constituents is bergapten, which makes topically applied bergamot phototoxic to humans and animals, so make sure you buy only bergapten-free bergamot oil.

Frankincense (Boswellia carteri) exudes a rich, warm, sweet balsamic aroma. It has been reported to help with asthma, bronchitis, coughs, anxiety, and nervous tension. Cleveland says that it is frequently chosen by dogs suffering from anxiety and fear.

Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides) is a tranquil, calming, and grounding oil that helps soothe irritability and anger. Cleveland says, “It has a balancing effect on the central nervous system and is helpful for mental and physical exhaustion and insomnia.”

The oils in the chart below include Cleveland’s three favorite aromatherapeutic oils for dogs; the rest are favorites of Kristen Leigh Bell, author of Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals (Findhorn Press, 2002).

What essential oils are bad for dogs?

dog and essential oil
The author’s dog says, “No thanks!” to this particular oil, so that one is not for her! Photo by Stephen Nagy.

“Do not diffuse essential oils with the constituent thujone,” says Cleveland, “such as sage, tansy, and wormwood.” Other potentially harmful essential oils for dogs include peppermint, cinnamon, wintergreen, pine, sweet birch, tea tree (Meleleuca), anise, clove, and ylang-ylang.

According to the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661), the most frequently reported essential oil toxicities for dogs involve tea tree, pennyroyal, wintergreen, and pine oils.

In general, the risk to dogs from aromatherapy diffusers is minimal, especially if you use essential oils from the “safe for dogs” list and follow the recommendations described in this article.

Off-Leash Genetics

For best results, dog owners must be sure the essential oils they buy are of “therapeutic quality.” Be forewarned, however, that there is much confusion in the marketplace as to how that term is defined. Fortunately, at the high end, there is also much agreement as to what’s the best and what isn’t. Professional aromatherapists agree that more than 95% of the world’s production of essential oils, including most brands sold in department stores and health food stores, are inappropriate for canine (or human) aromatherapy.

Most essential oils are chemically standardized for the pharmaceutical and perfume industries, with certain components removed and others added. Even if they are correctly labeled as 100% natural and 100% pure, nearly all essential oils are produced from commercially grown plants, complete with traces of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, and they are quickly distilled in very large batches under high heat and pressure for maximum yield. The results are very different from oils distilled in small batches at low pressure for longer periods.

The best sellers of essential oils source their products directly from manufacturers (distillers) or from distributors who travel to the source. They test the oils with gas chromatography or similar sophisticated equipment to ensure the oils are correctly labeled and not adulterated with synthetic oils, pesticide residues, or anything else.

The best oils are made with plants that are organically raised or responsibly wild-crafted; distilled at low temperature and pressure; treated like vintage wines and never blended with other essential oils; labeled by botanical species according to the date, time, and place of harvest and distillation; and tested for purity and accuracy of chemotype.

Any product that contains synthetic essential oils should not be used for therapeutic purposes. Pure essential oils are very expensive, so some distributors adulterate them with synthetic oils, inexpensive natural oils with a similar fragrance, inexpensive vegetable oils, or solvents. Obviously, these adulterants and synthetic oils – sometimes called perfume or fragrance oils – do not offer the complex chemicals contained in natural essential oils.

Approved Essential Oil Suppliers

To find true therapeutic-quality essential oils, order from suppliers like the ones listed below. These suppliers test essential oils for quality and maintain a network of relationships with manufacturers whose products are truly of superior quality. They are also familiar with safe canine applications for their products.

animalEO Essential Oils

Frogworks

Original Swiss Aromatics

Nature’s Gift

Safe Essential Oils for Use in a Diffuser for Dogs

Essential oilIndicated for
Bergamot (Citrus bergamia)Relaxing, uplifting, reduces anxiety
CARROT SEED (Daucus carota)Relaxing, relieves stress and anxiety
ROMAN CHAMOMILE (Anthemis nobilis)Calming, for behavioral concerns, anxiety
Frankincense (Boswellia carteri)Balancing, lifts the spirit, boosts immunity
GERMANIUM (Pelargonium graveolens)Stress relief, raises spirits
GINGER (Zingiber officinale)Helps prevent nausea
LAVENDER (Lavandula angustifolia)Calming, relaxing
GREEN MANDARIN (Citrus reticulata)Calms fear, anxiety, stress
SWEET MARJORAM (Origanum marjorana)Calming, disinfecting
MYRRH (Commiphora myrrha)Antiviral, helps with healing
SWEET ORANGE (Citrus sinensis)Calming, deodorizing, raises spirits
ROSE (Rosa damascene)Encouraging, relaxes mind and body
THYME (Thyme vulgaris, chemotype linalool)Relaxing, antibacterial, supports immune system
VALERIAN (Valeriana officinalis)Calming, separation anxiety, thunder phobia, sleep aid
Vetiver (Vetivera zizanoides)Stabilizing, balancing, strengthens immune system

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