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Puppy Warts Are Rarely a Problem

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Old dog with papillomatosis
A wart caused by the papilloma virus has a classic appearance, being light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface. Credit: Todorean Gabriel | Getty Images

The dawn of doggy day care brought an increase in cases of puppy warts. Puppy warts are caused by canine papilloma virus and are extremely contagious. At doggy day care, dogs and puppies are playfully mouthing each other and sharing toys and water bowls, so the virus can spread like wildfire.

The warts typically develop in the mouth, and there can be lots of them. They can be on the tongue, the lips, the roof of the mouth, and the inside the cheeks. They are ugly for sure, but problems only occur if they become infected and cause pain.

Diagnosing Puppy Warts

Puppy warts occur most frequently in dogs 6 months to 2 years old due to young dogs’ less mature immune systems. These warts have a classic appearance, light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface, so they are easily recognizable. The warts will regress and disappear as the dog mounts an immune response against the virus. It can take several weeks to several months for the warts to go away.

If you have a young dog who goes to doggy day care and develops these classic lesions, your veterinarian will likely diagnose puppy warts based simply on history and physical examination. If you have an older dog who does not attend doggy day care, your veterinarian will likely recommend a biopsy to rule out worse things.

Puppy Warts Treatment

Luckily, the puppy papilloma virus is benign (not harmful), and usually no treatment is required other than tincture of time, unless the warts become infected, painful, or interfere with eating. Antibiotics are indicated for infection. The warts can be surgically removed or frozen off if necessary.

The good news is that a dog is unlikely to ever suffer from puppy warts again, thanks to the immune response. The bad news is that your puppy must stay home from doggy day care while suffering from puppy warts, and for two months after they are gone, due to the long incubation period of this virus.

Car Chasing

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dog chasing cars
Phoebe listens for oncoming cars. A couple weeks ago, I had to keep her on leash to prevent her from chasing any car driving by our house. Now, thanks to a ton of practicing (and treats) I can call her back to me if I notice her watching/waiting/listening for cars in time.

Phoebe, my little foster mama, is a car-chaser, and, unfortunately, we have a perfect property for her to practice her passion. I live on a roughly square two-acre parcel situated at the corner of two rural roads, so fully half of our property line is fenced and parallel to a road. This makes it fun for Phoebe to chase passing cars on either road – whose drivers are probably oblivious to her as she speeds, barking, down the fence line – but especially fulfilling when one slows and turns the corner, traversing both roadside fence lines before disappearing down the road out of sight.

When dogs engage in behaviors we don’t like, the solution is always (at least) two-pronged: You need to both teach the dog what you would prefer that they do in the given situation (mostly by reinforcing a behavior that’s incompatible with the behavior you don’t want), and you need to prevent them from being reinforced for doing the behavior you don’t want.

In this case, that means keeping Phoebe from being able to chase the cars, by keeping her on a leash any time she’s not locked up. Car-chasing, like chasing squirrels, cats, shadows, bicycles, joggers, or anything else that moves, is highly reinforcing for some dogs. Chasing is part of the “predatory sequence” that is encoded in every dog’s DNA. The full sequence is defined by ethologists as ORIENT > EYE > STALK > CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > DISSECT > CONSUME. Some dogs barely display even a single part of this sequence, but  the selective breeding we’ve done over millenia has resulted in some breeds that display specific parts of this sequence quite strongly. The herding breeds are masters of the orient, eye, stalk, and chase parts; dogs who go on to do more than nip at the animals they are supposed to be herding tend to get culled from the population. Protection dog breeds have been bred to excel at the grab/bite phase of the sequence, and, again, get culled if they go farther than that. But certain hunting dogs, such as those who are used to hunt for wild pigs and bears, are prized for their abilities to kill their prey.

Whatever genetic inheritance Phoebe possesses, the chasing bit clearly fills her with adrenaline and endorphins. Fortunately for me – or more specifically, my free-range chickens – she doesn’t seem to have any tendencies toward the grab/bite or any further part of the sequence.

I’ve mostly been preventing Phoebe’s opportunity to chase cars by keeping her contained in a 10-foot by 10-foot pen with her five puppies. But they are now 6-plus weeks old and she is rapidly tiring of their demands to nurse. They don’t need to nurse anymore. They are eating canned and soaked dry food several times a day, and even munching on dry kibble between meals. I equipped the pen with second doghouse on a raised platform so she could escape the pups when she needed a break; at this point, she spends virtually all of her time in the pen up there, out of their reach.

But the arrangement won’t last long. The gang of puppies just mastered the stairs to the deck on the back of my house. Until a few days ago, when I let them out of their pen to play on the lawn, I could run up those stairs so they would stop following me and biting my ankles. Now, they gleefully bound up the stairs after me; it won’t be long before they can get up on Phoebe’s platform. When that happens, she’ll have to go back to the shelter to start the next part of her journey: getting treatment for her heartworm infection, getting spayed, and getting adopted.

Teaching an incompatible behavior

The second important part of getting rid of the car-chasing behavior is teaching the dog (through reinforcement) an incompatible behavior.  I’ve been working hard on teaching Phoebe one very simple behavior that is incompatible with car-chasing: coming when called. I won’t review all the steps for that here, but will instead just point you toward past in-depth articles that teach this important behavior.

“Daily Practice Makes for Perfect Recalls”

“Rocket Recall”

She’s doing much better already; it helps that she’s extremely motivated by yummy treats (having been starved before she came to the shelter and also from the demands of nursing). I can already call her back to me when I see her hear an oncoming car and she rises to her feet before launching her charge. If I fail to notice her noticing the oncoming car, however, and she starts her run before I call, she’ll still come back to me about half of the time, which is 50% better than she was three weeks ago. I’m hoping by the time she has to go back to the shelter, we’ll have a solid recall off of cars at least 80% or more of the time.

Metronidazole for Dogs Works Like Magic

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Female veterinarian giving medication to dog owner in veterinary surgery
Magic, mysterious, malevolent metronidazole: This drug works like magic for most cases of diarrhea in dogs, but it’s mysterious because how it works is not well understood. And, sadly, it has a malevolent side in the form of a rare but serious side effect called metronidazole toxicity. The point is that, as wonderful as metronidazole is, it’s still a prescription drug for good reason. Credit: Wetemd61 | Getty Images

For simple diarrhea in dogs, metronidazole is usually the first thing your veterinarian recommends. Although metronidazole is an antibiotic by class, it works as an anti-inflammatory on the intestinal mucosa. As such, regardless of what is causing the inflammation that is resulting in diarrhea, metronidazole cools the flame. So, whether the diarrhea is due to stress, a diet change, dietary indiscretion (aka eating “dumb stuff”), or even a parasite or virus, metronidazole often helps, and research shows it can help quickly.

Metronidazole Dosage for Dogs With Diarrhea

Typical metronidazole dosage for dogs for treatment of non-specific, simple diarrhea in dogs is 5 to 10 mg/kg (milligrams of metronidazole per kilogram of the dog’s weight) twice a day for five days.  Metronidazole is a prescription drug dispensed as a 250 mg or 500 mg tablet. You need to know which you have.

For some dogs, a single dose is sufficient, especially when stress is the cause.

For chronic diarrhea, if metronidazole works and all other known causes of diarrhea have been ruled out, the condition is given the name “antibiotic-responsive diarrhea.” How it works is a mystery. That it works is a fact.

What Metronidazole is Used for in Dogs

In dogs, metronidazole is also used to treat:

  • Biopsy-confirmed inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), although steroids also may be necessary
  • Giardia, a protozoan intestinal parasite, although fenbendazole is the treatment of choice
  • Anaerobic bacteria, which are mostly found in the gastrointestinal tract and underneath the gums (periodontal disease)
  • Clostridial intestinal infections
  • Certain liver and gall bladder infections
  • Liver disease resulting in neurologic impairment (hepatic encephalopathy)

When metronidazole is used as an antibiotic, the dose range is typically 10 to 15 mg/kg twice a day.

Side Effects of Metronidazole for Dogs

Metronidazole toxicity is rare, but it can occur, usually with high doses given for an extended period. It shows up as sudden onset of severe, neurologic derangements, including:

  • Seizures
  • Tremors
  • Stiffness
  • Head tilt
  • Incoordination (ataxia)
  • Dilated pupils
  • Confusion
  • Nystagmus (rapid eyeball jerking back and forth)

With discontinuation of the drug, most dogs fully recover within a few days. Treatment for metronidazole toxicity is supportive care.

Additional, less scary but possible side effects of metronidazole include:

  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weakness
  • Bloody urine
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Neurologic derangements

One final note: With the increased importance of antibiotic stewardship to combat increasingly alarming rates of antibiotic resistance, your veterinarian may be reluctant to immediately prescribe metronidazole upon request for diarrhea. Trying a probiotic and bland diet may be suggested first for good reason.

Yeast Infection on Your Dog’s Paws

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A cute English Springer Spaniel Dog, lying down in a field licking his paw surrounded by daisy flowers.
Dogs with allergies, skin folds, and excessive hair between the toes are prone to yeast infections in their paws. Springer Spaniels have a higher incidence of Malassezia infections than most breeds; they can also suffer these infections in their ears. Photo by Sandra Standbridge, Getty Images

Spore-producing yeasts or fungi normally live on canine skin without causing problems, but they can sometimes spread out of control. When a yeast infection on dog paws happens, a dog’s paws will become highly itchy, prompting the dog to lick them. In a very short time they become red and irritated, may develop a cheesy, musty, or pungent odor, and a brown discharge can develop in the nail beds.

The culprit is usually Malassezia pachydermatis, a yeast species that multiplies in warm, moist environments. This overgrowth is most frequently associated with dog allergies, which also cause itching, prompting the dog to lick his feet; the moisture and damage to the skin sparks the yeast overgrowth. A cut, abrasion, or other injury to the paw can also trigger licking and a Malassezia infection.

Diagnosis of Yeast Infection on Dog Paws

The paws’ appearance and odor makes a yeast infection diagnosis easy, but a veterinarian can confirm this by examining some of the dog’s skin cells under a microscope.

Dogs with skin folds, excessive hair between toes, and underlying health conditions or autoimmune disorders may be susceptible. The breeds most associated with paw pad yeast infections are Bulldogs, Cocker Spaniels, Basset Hounds, Retrievers, Shih Tzus, Poodles, English Setters, West Highland White Terriers, English Springer Spaniels, and Dachshunds.

In general, yeast infections are secondary rather than primary – they develop after another disorder has weakened the dog’s overall health, allowing yeast cells to multiply. If your dog suffers from recurrent infections, your vet will look for signs of an underlying medical condition that is contributing to your dog’s problem. Varied conditions such as hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, food allergies, an autoimmune disorder, and skin cancer have all been associated with recurrent Malassezia infections.

Treating Dog Paw Yeast Infections

Medications that treat canine yeast infections include chlorhexidine, miconazole, ketoconazole, and itraconazole, which should be applied according to your veterinarian’s instructions and may include soaking the affected paws. Be sure to thoroughly dry your dog’s feet after treatment. Keeping your dog’s feet clean and dry and consulting your veterinarian when symptoms appear can keep yeast infections from spreading.

In severe or recurrent cases, oral antifungal medications such as fluconazole or itraconazole work systemically to prevent yeast cells from multiplying.

Frequently suggested home remedies such as vinegar foot soaks, Epsom salt baths, hydrogen peroxide, or witch hazel sprays are ineffective and not supported by clinical research. Other unproven strategies include adding yogurt, probiotics, or coconut oil to your dog’s food, switching to a “yeast-free” or “anti-yeast” dog food, or reducing carbohydrates in your dog’s diet.

A better nutritional strategy is to improve your dog’s diet. Feeding higher-quality protein sources and other ingredients can improve the health of his skin, strengthening its defenses against yeast and fungi. Also, if food allergies are suspected, a food elimination trial is in order; talk to your veterinarian about how to conduct an effective food elimination trial.

Visiting National Parks with Your Dog

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goloden dog statnding in front of waterfall in yosemite california
That’s a beautiful picture of someone’s dog at Yosemite Falls in Yosemite National Park – too bad his owner broke National Park Service rules in order to take the photo (dogs in national parks need to be leashed at all times, on a leash that is a maximum of 6 feet long). It would take only a moment for the dog to spot one of the many wild animals who are native to the park – including deer as well as black bears – and cause some serious trouble. Photo by Barna Tanko, Getty Photos

Are national parks dog-friendly? The answer depends on your definition of “dog-friendly.”

If you think dog-friendly includes letting your dog hike all of a park’s trails, run off-leash, and go everywhere with you and your family, then, no, national parks are not dog-friendly. If your well-behaved dog enjoys on-leash walks in designated areas with a maximum leash length of 6 feet, the answer is maybe. But an unequivocal “Yes!” answer depends on your ability to find a national park that is a good match to you, your dog, and your family.

Each national park has its own rules, but most prohibit dogs in public buildings, on trails, at swimming beaches, and on public transportation. Dogs cannot be left unattended on trails and in campgrounds, and they should never be left in a car in warm weather.

Service dogs (park rules mention guide dogs accompanying visually impaired persons and service dogs for hearing) are allowed in most areas, always on leash.

In national parks that allow hunting, dogs used in support of that activity are permitted as regulated by the park’s superintendent.

Which parks can I visit with my dog?

There are 423 national park sites in the United States and its territories, 63 of which have “National Park” in their names (there are also national battlefields, military parks, historical parks, lakeshores, monuments, and more). National park scenic trails, recreation areas, and historic locations make them popular vacation destinations, but whether you and your dog will enjoy the journey depends on your research and planning.

Dogs are allowed on some trails in only some national parks, such as Acadia, Grand Canyon, Cuyahoga Valley, Padre Island National Seashore, and Congaree. In most national parks, however, dogs are prohibited on hiking and scenic trails, and are welcome only on leash and only in campgrounds, parking lots, and other developed areas.

The website NPS.gov lists all the national parks, historic sites, national monuments, and other areas of interest. Search for parks in the states or areas you plan to visit, then study their basic information, calendars of events, current conditions, maps, alerts, and other details. Alerts identify roads or trails that are closed to visitors, hazardous weather warnings, smoke from wildfires, construction delays, and other current conditions.

Then go to this page, which features a map of the U.S. and all its national parks, with a link to each park’s rules concerning pets and where they are allowed.

National park dog rules

If all dogs were perfectly behaved, there wouldn’t be a need for restrictions, but dogs in national parks can:

  • Chase or disturb large and small wild animals
  • Negatively impact the behavior of native animals
  • Damage a park’s ecosystem by digging up plants and harming fragile vegetation
  • Stress, frighten, or injure people or other dogs
  • Be injured by wildlife, other dogs, or accidents

In short, dogs can be a nuisance. But many dogs travel well and are safely under their handlers’ control in new environments, which makes them appropriate park visitors. The National Park Service rules about dogs were adopted to keep the parks safe while allowing visitors to enjoy their pets’ companionship, at least in some national parks.

Things to consider

As you research national parks, consider your dog’s personality, health, and exercise needs along with your own interests. Don’t forget to factor in the weather; extremes of heat and cold will affect your dog’s comfort and safety.

Does your dog travel well? Is he comfortable staying or sleeping in a crate? What time of year do you plan to visit? What environmental conditions (mosquitos, fleas, ticks, wildlife, snakes, cactus, heat, wind, rain, snow, paved roads, dirt trails, crowds, traffic) will affect you and your dog? How does your dog react to wild animals, other dogs, or people? For your dog’s safety, plan to keep a respectful distance from all three.

If you enjoy hiking, check to see which trails are open to dogs and study their descriptions to decide which match your dog’s capabilities. Most medium to large adult dogs in good condition can carry supplies weighing 10% to 12% of their body weight in a well-fitted dog pack (a maximum for conditioned canine athletes is about 25% of their body weight). To help your dog prepare for carrying a pack, start at home with small loads and build up gradually.

Will you stay for just a day or for several days? Will you be in a camper van? A tent? Will you camp inside the park, in an area adjacent to the park, or stay in a motel that allows pets? Is there a nearby boarding facility that can care for your dog if your inside-the-park plans don’t work out? Are there activities near but outside the park that you and your dog can enjoy together?

Your destination park’s website may have information about nearby boarding kennels, dog day care facilities, veterinarians, or other resources that can help with your planning.

Getting ready

If you decide that a trip to one or more national parks with your dog is a good idea, consider the following equipment:

  • Water (bringing your own or filtering water is recommended because streams and lakes can carry waterborne pathogens such as giardia)
  • Food, snacks, storage containers, and food bowls
  • Pick-up bags and cleanup supplies
  • An appropriate hands-free or hand-held leash, maximum length 6 feet
  • A collar and/or harness
  • An ID tag with up-to-date contact information and microchip details
  • Contact information for your veterinarian, online veterinary information services, and veterinary clinics near the park that you’ll be visiting
  • Appropriate canine attire such as a cooling vest or scarf in hot weather or an insulated dog jacket in cold weather
  • Dog first-aid kit, grooming tool, drying towels, and paw protection
  • Insect repellent or sunscreen, as needed
  • Life vest or dog flotation device for lakes or river
  • A comfortable dog bed
  • For your car, extra towels or a canine seat cover

Do your research, come prepared, use common sense, and stay flexible. That way you, your dog, and your family will have the best possible park visit.

Be a BARK Ranger

Introduced as part of the Healthy People, Healthy Parks Initiative in 2018, this ranger-led program helps visitors enjoy positive experiences with their pets in unfamiliar environments. BARK stands for:

Bag your pet’s waste

Always leash your pet

Respect wildlife

Know where you can go

The program teaches dog owners about the importance of following the BARK principles, and participating parks offer a short training program that includes a BARK Rangers swearing-in ceremony and BARK Ranger collar tags, stamps, wooden badges, or certificates. Some parks have customized tags for their location while others offer generic BARK Ranger tags.

Weirdly, there isn’t a list of the 60 BARK-participating parks on the NPS site, but there is one here.

Dog Incontinence Medications

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Dog in diaper. Senior Yorkshire terrier lying on his bed and wearing a diaper for urinary incontinence.
For male dogs with urinary leakage, a simple belly band is easy to use and appears comfortable for the dog. You can get washable ones to reuse or disposable ones, much like baby diapers. For females, a panty-style diaper is necessary. Credit: Baldo | Getty Images

For old dogs who have age-related physical changes that cause urinary leakage, dog incontinence medications with hormone replacement therapy and alpha agonists can help. These include:

It may take a little experimentation or a combination of therapies to help your dog gain control over urinary leakage and/or loss of nerve and muscle control over urination. Female dogs, especially spayed dogs, may respond best to a low dose of estrogen. Incurin is a short-acting estrogen that is extremely safe.

Female Dog Incontinence

Oklahoma State University estimates that 5% to 20% of spayed dogs develop urinary sphincter mechanism incompetence (USMI) and says that the larger the dog, the more likely it is to happen. (See “The Best Age to Spay Your Dog” for more information on the connection between USMI and spaying.)

A recent study looked at injecting muscle stem cells into the urinary sphincter muscles in an attempt to regenerate healthy tissue. While the study only had 15 female dogs in it, 14 of them showed dramatic improvement.

Complementary Medicine Options

Acupuncture may improve incontinence for some dogs, and many people do try different herbal compounds, such as corn silk or palmetto. Organic soy supplements somewhat mimic estrogen in activity, but most find the results to be weak at best.

Tips on Dealing with Old Dog Incontinence

The most important thing to do is to get a diagnosis and treat any underlying medical conditions. For middle-aged dogs, barring congenital defects such as ectopic ureters, the most common cause is a bladder infection. That can be ruled out with a urinalysis. A urinalysis, with a complete blood panel, would catch health problems like diabetes and kidney failure.

You can help your older incontinent dog with management. Try to get her outside frequently or provide “pee pads” or a litterbox. Put waterproof, washable pads over her bedding and in spots where she likes to rest.

Most dogs will accept wearing a doggy diaper – just be sure to clean and dry that area daily to prevent urine scald and skin irritation. Change the diaper frequently.

Lyme Disease in Dogs

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This photo looks like a Lyme disease recruitment poster! Keeping your dog on a trail and out of tall grass or shrubs can help limit his exposure to ticks. Hopefully, the man is wearing permethrin-treated clothing and the dog received both a tick-preventative medication and a Lyme disease vaccine. Photo by Crispin la Valiente, Getty Photos.

Each spring and summer brings increased chatter on the internet about tick-borne diseases affecting dogs, particularly Lyme disease in dogs. For those of us who live in the Northeastern, Mid-Atlantic, upper Midwestern, or Pacific Coast states though, Lyme disease is a year-round problem.

The most prevalent cause of Lyme disease in dogs (and humans!) is the spirochete bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi, which is transmitted through the bite and feeding of infected black-legged ticks. These ticks remain attached to their host for two or more days. If a tick is a carrier of B. burgdorferi, it typically begins transmitting the bacteria to its host after being attached for 24 to 48 hours.

Symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs

Only about 5% to 10% of dogs who have become infected with B. burgdorferi will develop symptoms of Lyme disease. Of these dogs, most will develop Lyme arthritis. The first symptoms of this are acute lethargy, lameness in one or more limbs, fever, one or more swollen joints, and enlarged lymph nodes. These dogs feel lousy; they have no energy and typically will have no desire to eat or drink.

A smaller percentage of dogs who have become infected with B. burgdorferi will develop Lyme nephritis (inflammation of the kidneys). Dogs with Lyme nephritis may show a chronic history of weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, and inappetance. Their water intake gradually increases over a period of two or more weeks and they urinate more often. In advanced stages, dogs may develop edema (puffiness) of their limbs.

Contrary to what is seen in humans, dogs do not develop a bulls-eye rash after a tick bite that transmits B. burgdorferi. Dogs may develop a small bulls-eye lesion on their skin after being bitten by ticks, mosquitoes, or black flies. This is related to the insect bite itself, not the transmission of tick-borne disease.

Treatment of Lyme disease in Dogs

Dogs with suspected Lyme arthritis are typically treated with an antibiotic called doxycycline for 30 days. An analgesic such as gabapentin may be prescribed to alleviate the joint pain. Response to therapy is typically rapid, with most dogs showing resolution of their symptoms in the first 24 to 72 hours of starting doxycycline.

Unfortunately, a complete course of doxycycline may not clear all of the Lyme bacteria from your dog’s body. B.burgdorferi has been shown to be very good at evading the immune system and may hide in select body tissues for years after treatment.

Lyme nephritis is a condition that is not well understood. It is suspected that, in a valiant attempt to clear B. burgdorferi from the body, the immune system causes irreparable damage to the kidneys. The portion of the kidney that is damaged is the glomerulus – the filtration unit of the kidney. This condition is called immune-complex glomerulonephritis (ICGN).

Dogs with Lyme nephritis are treated like any other dog who has ICGN, regardless of the cause. Treatment may include hospitalization with IV fluids and medications for high blood pressure, protein loss through the kidneys, vomiting and nausea, and prevention of abnormal clotting, in addition to treatment with doxycycline and an immunosuppressant. Unfortunately, the prognosis for dogs with Lyme nephritis is poor.

How Lyme Disease Is Diagnosed

Diagnosis of Lyme disease is challenging. B. burgdorferi travels through a dog’s skin and other tissues, like joints and tendons. Although B. burgdorferi can rarely be found in the bloodstream, this does not appear to be its preferred mode of travel in the body.

Since B. burgdorferi is rarely found in the bloodstream, the blood tests currently available for Lyme disease instead measure a dog’s antibodies to B. burgdorferi. A positive “Lyme test” – more accurately, a B. burgdorferi antibody titer test – tells us that a dog has been exposed to B. burgdorferi and has developed antibodies to that bacteria, but does not tell us if a dog’s symptoms are being caused by Lyme disease.

A different type of test looks for B. burgdorferi itself. This bacteria prefers to live in a dog’s body tissues – like skin, joints, and tendons – so we can use a PCR (polymerase chain reaction) test that can detect the genetic material from B. burgdorferi in a tissue sample. Collection of these samples is a little more invasive than obtaining a blood sample. It involves taking a biopsy sample of skin or other tissue or obtaining a sample of joint fluid from an affected joint. Skin biopsy samples need to be obtained from the site where the tick bit your dog. Since many tick bites go undetected, it may be nearly impossible to know where to obtain a skin biopsy sample. Joint fluid can be obtained from the joint that is sore and swollen. A positive PCR test confirms a definitive diagnosis of Lyme disease.

Many veterinary hospitals use rapid blood tests for Lyme disease that provide a result in about 10 minutes. These tests detect antibodies that your dog has developed to B. burgdorferi. If your dog is showing symptoms of Lyme disease and he tests positive on the rapid blood test, your veterinarian may draw the conclusion that your dog’s symptoms are being caused by an active Lyme infection and prescribe a course of doxycycline. If your dog’s symptoms resolve within 24 to 72 hours of starting doxycycline, his symptoms were most likely caused by Lyme disease.

If symptoms continue – your dog does not improve after 72 hours of doxycycline – then there is likely a different cause for his symptoms. The positive test indicates that your dog was exposed to B. burgdorferi and mounted an immune response to that infection at some point, but if doxycycline did not reduce or eliminate your dog’s symptoms, they are very likely being caused by something else. Your veterinarian may want to re-examine your dog and order additional diagnostics.

Tick analyses have shown that many ticks carry more than one disease-causing bacteria. If your dog tests positive for Lyme, talk to your veterinarian about testing for other tick-borne diseases that are common in your area.

What if a rapid blood test is positive – again, meaning that your dog was exposed to B. burgdorferi and developed antibodies to that bacteria – but has no symptoms whatsoever? It turns out that most dogs who are exposed to B. burgdorferi are subclinical for Lyme disease; they never show symptoms of Lyme disease but they may test positive on their annual combination heartworm/tick test.

Treating a seropositive, nonsymptomatic dog with a course of doxycycline is controversial; there is no consensus in the veterinary community on whether treatment might possibly be beneficial or is an unnecessary use of antibiotics that can contribute to antibiotic resistance. If your dog meets this description, discuss the pros and cons of treatment with your veterinarian.

Life Cycle of the Black-Legged Tick

Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacterial spirochete that causes Lyme disease, is transmitted through the bite and feeding of the black-legged tick. There are two species of the black-legged tick. In the Northeastern, Mid-Atlantic, and upper Midwestern states, Ixodes scapularis is responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. In the Pacific Coast states, Ixodes pacifica is the culprit.

Black-legged ticks have a two-year, four-stage life cycle. The first stage is the egg that is laid by an adult female tick in the spring of year one. Each egg develops a larval tick that hatches from the egg in summer. The larval stage of the tick is extremely small – about the size of a poppy seed – and has six legs.

A tick is shown “questing” – hanging onto grass and waving its front legs, waiting for an animal to walk by that it can grab onto. Photo by kmatija, Getty Photos.

Larval ticks need a blood meal from a suitable host to complete their transition to the next life stage. Both species of Ixodes larval ticks feed on mice, squirrels, shrews, and birds. Ixodes pacifica larval ticks also feed on lizards. The white-footed mouse is the reservoir for the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. Larval ticks that feed on an infected white-footed mouse become infected with and carriers of B. burgdorferi.

Once the larval ticks have obtained a blood meal, they morph into nymph ticks between the fall of year one and the spring of year two. Nymphs are about twice the size of larval ticks (still really small!) and have eight legs.

Nymph ticks need a blood meal to morph into an adult tick, so they look for something a little bigger – like dogs, cats, and humans. If the nymph tick picked up B. burgdorferi when it was a larval tick, that nymph tick can transmit B. burgdorferi to its new host.

Nymphs morph into adult ticks in the fall of year two. Adult ticks are about twice the size of nymph ticks. They look for their final blood meal from a suitable host (such as deer, humans, and dogs) before winter sets in. Again, if the adult tick was a carrier for B. burgdorferi as a nymph, the adult tick can transmit B. burgdorferi to its new host.

Adult ticks mate while on deer in the spring. The male tick dies after mating. The female tick leaves the deer host and lays thousands of eggs in the environment. The female tick dies after laying her egg cache.

During the winter months, nymph and adult ticks will seek shelter in leaf litter, shady places, and under snow. If the ambient temperature rises above 37 degrees Fahrenheit and their snow shelters have melted, nymph and adult ticks that did not find a suitable host in the fall will actively seek a host for a blood meal in the winter.

How to Prevent Lyme Disease

There is no way to completely prevent your dog from developing Lyme disease. But you can reduce the risk of him being exposed to B. burgdorferi with the following three-pronged approach:

  • Use a high quality flea/tick preventative all year long. Nymph and adult ticks can become active in winter when the ambient temperature is above 37 degrees Fahrenheit and there is no snow on the ground.
  • Check your dog nightly for ticks. Ticks that are removed within 24 hours of attaching to your dog are less likely to transmit burgdorferi.
  • Talk to your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for Lyme disease if you live in a region where Burgdorferi is prevalent. Most Lyme vaccines are more than 90% effective at preventing Lyme disease. But like most vaccines, their effectiveness can wane over time.

Lyme and other tick-borne diseases are here to stay. But we can take preventive measures to minimize our risk of exposure, both for us and our dogs.

How Ticks Find Your Dog (and You!)

Removing ticks before they bite your dog, or as soon as possible after they bite, will reduce the chance for a potential infection with B. Burgdorferi, so don’t skip those post-walk tick checks! Photo by Nancy Kerns

Contrary to popular belief, ticks do not jump, fly, or fall from trees. They hang out on blades of grass, at the top of leaf litter, or on the tips of shrubs. They hang onto vegetation with their rear legs and wave their front legs while waiting for a suitable host to come along. This activity is called questing.

When you or your dog brushes up against the tick’s hangout, the tick grabs on to you or your dog with their front legs. Then the tick spends 30 minutes to two hours or more walking all over their new host’s body, looking for the perfect spot to insert their mouthparts and begin taking a blood meal. This is often in a warm location on the body, such as the armpits, groin, neck, or ears.

Wearing clothing that has been treated with permethrin can help prevent ticks from hitching a ride on you and your dog. Permethrin causes a condition called “hot-foot” with ticks. A tick’s legs have a burning sensation when they make contact with permethrin, and they run away as quickly as possible.

Dog Skin Tag Removal

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Dog skin tag removal is usually not a medical necessity unless the skin tag is on a dog's eyelid.
Until you’re certain you can identify a skin tag on your dog, ask your veterinarian to look at the growth. You don’t want to assume it’s a skin tag and learn it’s a cancerous lesion. Credit: RelaxFoto.de | Getty Images

Many older dogs get skin tags, just as older people do, and don’t need veterinary attention. Even a black skin tag on a dog is usually harmless, although sometimes people opt for dog skin tags removal for cosmetic reasons. An exception to the harmless rule of thumb is a skin tag on the dog’s eyelid.

Skin tags on a dog’s eyelid may require veterinary intervention. In that location, skin tags may rub on or irritate the cornea, leading to eye discharge and/or corneal abrasion. If you notice the dog’s eye seems red or your dog is rubbing the eye, you should check with your veterinarian immediately.

Technically, skin tags are fibrovascular papillomas. They are most commonly seen on Poodles, Cocker Spaniels, and Miniature Schnauzers or mixes of these breeds. The color of the dog’s skin tag may vary with the skin that the tag grows out from.

Skin Tag or Tick

Skin tags and ticks on your dog can appear similar, but ticks are generally brown with a reddish or gray tint, while skin tags tend to be the same color as the dog’s skin. If need be, use a magnifying glass and look for legs on the spot. If you see legs, it’s a tick, and it should be carefully removed.

Dog Skin Tag Removal at Home

While few skin tags require removal, none should be removed by you at home. Removal could be painful, bloody, and leave an open sore that could require a veterinary visit and antibiotics.

Unless a dog’s skin tag is in an area where it gets irritated and may ulcerate – such as around a collar – they are usually left alone. Do a monthly exam of your dog to keep an eye on changes in any skin tags. Growth, irritation, ulceration, and chewing or licking at an area are reasons to get a quick vet check.

If your veterinarian has any concern about a skin tag, she will do a needle biopsy or remove the tag. Removal can be done surgically, with laser, or via electrocautery. If your dog is having anesthesia for another reason, you can ask your veterinarian to remove any skin tags that bother your dog (or you), although it will be an extra fee. See also “Finding a Mole on Your Dog” and “Skin Lesions and Cancer.”

What Is That Skin Thing?

Skin LesionAppearanceColorSize
MoleFairly flat against the skin with a broad base; smooth surfacePink, white, gray, or blackAbout a quarter inch in diameter
Skin tagProtrude from the skin, usually connected by a thin stalk; can be smooth or bumpyNormally the same color as the skinA bit smaller than a pencil eraser tip
TickLike a brown dot with tiny legs that grows larger as the tick feeds on the bloodReddish-brown to grayish brownFrom nearly microscopic to the side of a sesame seed with growth as it feeds
WartUsually has a cauliflower-like appearance; starts as small flat bump that grows and becomes bumpyWhite, gray, pink, or darkStarts small and grows larger and bumpier; can appear in clusters, so size varies
CancerCancerous lesion colors, sizes, and appearances vary widely. Any growth you are not confident identifying should be evaluated by your veterinarian as soon as it’s found. The quicker a cancerous or pre-cancerous growth is removed, the better the dog’s prognosis.

How To Put Weight on a Dog

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Young woman jogging with her dog
Most dogs are natural athletes and feel best when they are fit and trim, just as we do. Credit: Lechatnoir | Getty Images

The simplest way to help your dog gain weight is to feed additional meals every day. If he’s usually eating twice a day, up that to three or four times a day, gradually increasing the amount of food, but keeping meals evenly spaced out. You can also try:

  • Feeding a higher calorie dog food, usually labeled for performance dogs
  • Including wet food in his meals
  • Adding a high-calorie topper
  • Choosing a weight-gain supplement made for dogs
  • Incorporating a little human food in his meals, like dairy, rice, eggs, or lean meat
  • Use cooked meat, string cheese, or high-calorie dog treats for training
  • If you feed homemade meals, go to balance.it to be sure your recipe is nutritionally sound

Best Dog Food for Weight Gain

If your work schedule makes feeding an extra meal difficult, look for the best dog food made for weight gain. These foods contain more calories – often listed in tiny type under the ingredients list – and may be labeled as weight-gain dog food but probably not. It’s more likely you’ll find them labeled for performance or active or sport dogs, which are dogs who need more calories because they use more energy. These foods tend to be more expensive. Switch over to the new food over a course of about a week.

Be careful, though. Be sure your dog is truly thin because most dogs, just like humans, tend to carry too much weight, and we can become accustomed to that appearance. If your dog is at an ideal weight, you can feel his ribs through a thin layer of fat and note his waist, which is located right in front of his hips. He has a tucked-up appearance. If you can see his hip/pelvic bones or the tops of his ribs, he’s too thin.

Weighing your dog monthly is a good guide. Just pick the dog up and step on your bathroom scale. Then weigh yourself alone and subtract the difference to get the dog’s weight. Dogs at a healthy weight live longer lives.

Why Is Your Dog Thin?

While most dog owners are fighting the battle of the bulge and working to keep their canine companions thin, some dogs do need to gain weight. The usual groups who need to add some weight include juvenile boys, some senior dogs, and dogs with cancer or other chronic illnesses.

So, before you embark on a weight-gain program, take your dog to the veterinarian to be sure he is healthy. Your veterinarian will likely check for intestinal parasites and heartworms, as well as doing a physical exam. A complete blood panel is usually not cost-prohibitive and can be worth doing to rule out many disease conditions.

How to Help Your Dog Gain Weight

If your dog is a picky eater, consider adding a home-cooked meal for some of his meals. While there are recipes online for making home meals and treats that can pack on pounds, they may be nutritionally lacking. Companies like Balance It (balance.it) use veterinary nutritionists to help you design a balanced diet based on what you want to feed. There’s a charge, but it’s well worth doing this correctly.

Additional ways to get your skinny dog to eat include:

  • You can also add toppers that are high in calories, such as duck egg omelets, but remember you want to maintain that balanced diet.
  • Mixing some canned food in with kibble can entice many dogs to eat more. Add a tablespoon or three of warm water to increase the food’s aroma.
  • Some dogs will benefit from you adding a probiotic made for dogs (not humans!) to their food. Others do better with a digestive enzyme additive.
  • You can feed human food to your dog to gain weight, but add them to his nutritionally balanced meal not as the sole meal. Milk and dairy are nutritional powerhouses, and many dogs enjoy them.
  • Think about your training treats. Instead of using your low-calorie kibble, reward with string cheese or cooked meat. Many doggie treats are higher in calories. Keep these to 10 to 15% of your dog’s daily food intake though as many aren’t balanced.

Certainly, a too-thin dog is cause for concern, but be careful, especially if he’s also at all lethargic or “not himself.” A trip to your veterinarian is the best way to start the weight-gain efforts (see sidebar).

How to Help a Dog’s Runny Nose

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The sleeping dog's nose has a runny nose.
A dog’s runny nose that is a clear watery discharge is rarely anything to worry about. But, if the discharge changes color or your dog seems to be having difficulty breathing, you should call your veterinarian right away. Credit anakeseenadeen| Getty Images

A dog’s runny nose producing clear, watery discharge is usually nothing to worry about. It is likely a minor response to an allergen such as pollen or something else that irritated the inside of your dog’s nostrils.

A thick, pus-like, greenish, or bloody discharge is much more concerning, even in small amounts. This type of runny nose could indicate a foreign object stuck inside the nose, an infection, distemper, or even a polyp or tumor.

How to Help a Dog’s Runny Nose

If your dog just has a mild runny nose and no other symptoms, you can care for him at home. A clear, watery discharge will usually dry on its own and not cause your dog any discomfort. For thicker discharge, wipe your dog’s muzzle regularly with a damp cloth to remove crusts, prevent buildup, and keep his airway clear.

Your dog should see a veterinarian if he has:

  • A runny nose and other symptoms of illness
  • Trouble breathing because of the nasal discharge
  • A persistent runny nose that keeps coming back
  • A thick, mucoid, or bloody discharge

Your veterinarian will start by examining your dog and then may run other tests to figure out what is causing the runny nose. This may include swabbing the nose to do a bacterial or fungal culture, allergy testing, bloodwork, or x-rays.

My Dog Has a Runny Nose – What Can I Give Him?

If your dog has a runny nose, call your veterinarian’s office. Do not give any over-the-counter medications unless instructed to do so by your vet – many of the medications that are safe for humans can be dangerous for dogs.

A mild runny nose is usually nothing to worry about and can wait until regular business hours to be seen. Clean your dog’s muzzle as needed to keep his nostrils clear and prevent buildup of debris.

If your dog is having trouble breathing or is bleeding heavily from the nose, this is an emergency. For a nosebleed, you can try applying gentle pressure as you head to the veterinary hospital, but many dogs will not tolerate this. Instead, focus on keeping your dog as calm as possible.

How to Clean Dog Ears at Home

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Groomer with a dog
Cleaning your dog’s ears at home is simple, provided you have the right tools and you know why your dog’s ears need cleaning. Credit: MAYA | Getty Images

For dogs who get a lot of ear infections, cleaning the ears at home can be helpful. If you have a drop-eared dog – especially one who loves water – you’ve probably experienced gunky or infected ears. Prick-eared dogs can also get bacterial, yeast, or ear mite infections.

The first step with an ear infection is to get a veterinary exam to determine the cause of the infection and get the right medication. But cleaning the ears will be part of the treatment plan and preventive care for dogs who are prone to recurring ear infections.

What Can I Use to Clean My Dog’s Ears at Home?

You don’t need much to clean your dog’s ears:

  • A dog-safe ear cleansing solution
  • Cotton balls
  • Optional: some gauze and/or cotton tipped applicators
  • Optional: premade dog ear wipes

The ear cleansing solution is the most important item. These cleansers are safe even if your dog has a ruptured ear drum and contain a drying agent so that your dog’s ears will dry quickly once you are done with cleaning. You can purchase an ear cleanser at your vet’s office or any pet supply store.

In a pinch, equal parts of water and white or apple cider vinegar may work, but this is not the best choice for long-term care. Unlike an ear cleaning solution, this mixture does not dry as quickly. Persistent moisture in your dog’s ears can encourage more infections because bacteria thrive in a warm, moist environment.

The cotton balls and gauze are perfect for wiping out ears. Cotton-tipped applicators can be used to remove gunk from the nooks and crannies of the ear but only use these in areas where you can see. Reaching too deep could accidentally rupture your dog’s ear drum.

How to Clean Dog Ears

  1. Apply ear cleansing solution to a cotton ball.
  2. Place the soaked cotton ball in your dog’s ear and squish it around. Most dogs tolerate this better than squirting the cleanser directly into the ear.
  3. Gently wipe the ear with cotton or gauze, using a new piece each time until it comes back clean. Note: If your dog’s ear starts to bleed, stop cleaning. The tissue is too sensitive.
  1. Use a cotton-tipped applicator to carefully remove debris from nooks and crannies of the ear that you can see easily. Do not reach deep into the ear, as you could accidentally rupture the ear drum.
  2. Repeat with the other ear.

Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for how often to clean the ears. In many cases, cleaning will be a couple times a week while treating an infection, and then weekly or every other week for long term care, but this protocol can vary.

Find the Best Trainer for You and Your Dog

Women With Dogs
When you look at the photos and videos on a dog trainer’s website and social media pages, look for congruency between the written descriptions of the trainer’s methods and the gear and techniques shown in any photos or video. Professionals who are genuinely committed to positive reinforcement-based training won’t be shown with dogs who are wearing choke, prong, or electronic collars. Photo by Yellow Dog Productions Inc / Getty Images

Finding a good trainer for you and your dog may sound simple, but it’s not. Sure, you can search online or ask your veterinarian, groomer, or your dog-owning friends whom they recommend. That doesn’t mean you’re going to find the trainer who’s right for you or your dog.

An online search or a reference from an acquaintance might help you find a decent trainer. Just keep in mind that there are no legal requirements in the U.S. for someone to call themselves a dog trainer or behaviorist. Your plumber could hang out his dog trainer shingle tomorrow with absolutely no dog training experience and start working with clients.

Trainers referred by your friends and animal care professionals may – or may not – be up to speed on what are current and best practices in the dog training profession. And they may – or may not – use safe, effective, and humane training methods.

As a professional trainer myself, I’d like to share with you how I would go about finding and choosing a dog trainer.

Where to look for training candidates

The most reliable places to search are trainer directories of professional organizations that have education requirements and hold their students, members, or certificants to reasonable standards in the application of humane, science-based dog training methods and ethics.

Training and behavior professionals who care about professional standards pursue ongoing education and membership in and certification offered through one or more dog-training organizations and companies. We have a strong preference for professionals who have been certified by organizations that support and promote dog-friendly training, including all of the ones in the sidebar, “Recommended Dog-Trainer Certifying Organizations,” below.

Research Your Dog Trainer

Once you find a certified professional near you, however, your real job has just begun; you’ll need to do some research to make sure the candidate is suitable.

Start by looking at the candidate’s website. Read the information there and scrutinize the photos. While certifying organizations do their best to ensure that members are adhering to their mission and ethics, sadly that’s not always the case. If you see photos of dogs wearing prong or shock collars on the website, cross that trainer off your list!

Also check out the candidate’s social media (Facebook, Instagram, TikTok) to confirm that the text, photos, and videos displayed there are congruent with your own force-free training philosophy. If they have a blog, read several of them. If they’ve written articles for publications, find and read them. If they’ve written a book or books, try to find and read (or skim) at least one. Make sure you are comfortable with everything you find.

Interview the trainer

I also recommend that you interview the trainer or their training staff. They should happily answer your questions about methods and training philosophy – after all, you’ll be entrusting them with your dog’s well-being! Have your questions ready before you call and feel free to add more if some come up for you during the discussion.

Here are questions that I’d recommend you ask a prospective trainer:

  • What training and experience do you have? How long have you been working in the field? Look for a trainer who has made the effort to pursue her professional education and who has some boots-on-the-ground experience.
  • What is your educational background? What do you do for continuing education? What certifications do you have? There are constantly new findings in behavioral science. Trainers should be certified by a professional organization that promotes dog-friendly training, and should stay current in the field with regular continuing education at educational conferences, workshops, and/or seminars.
  • What is your training philosophy? Look for a trainer who is dedicated to a force-free training philosophy that allows the dog choice and agency, and seeks to create relationships between dog and human based on mutual love, trust, and respect.
  • What do you do if a dog makes a mistake or doesn’t listen? The correct answer is, “Figure out how to help him get it right.” There is no place for “corrections” or physical or verbal punishment in modern, humane dog training.
  • What methods and tools do you use? The answer here should be science-based “positive reinforcement” or “force-free.” Ask if they would ever use a choke (slip), prong (pinch), or shock collar (also called “electronic collars” or “e-collars”). We don’t recommend trainers who use these tools.
  • Do you guarantee results? The answer here should be, “No!” Dogs and humans are sentient, unpredictable creatures, and no ethical professional guarantees training results. This is a classic sign of a bad or shady trainer.
Instructor giving direction to a line of owners with their dogs during a dog training class.

When the trainer or their staff members answer your questions, listen – really listen – to their words. A recent study that examined the websites of 100 popular trainers found that trainers who use aversive methods are more likely to use the phrases like “pack leader,” “mother nature,” “electronic collar,” or “e-collar,” may talk about using a “balanced” approach, and brag about training without using treats.

In contrast, force-free trainers tend to talk about positive reinforcement, support the use of food in training, and are likely to call “electronic collars” by their more appropriate name: shock collars – and they don’t use them.

After talking to a trainer or her staff, ask to observe a training class. Make sure the trainer puts force-free training methods into practice, not just using buzzwords. Aversive and “balanced” trainers (those who use aversive training and positive reinforcement) have learned that there’s marketing value in the term “positive reinforcement” and they use it to attract clients. We’d keep looking if they mix treats and yanks on the leash.

Finally, ask for references: Good trainers are happy to supply you with contacts from past clients who can attest to their work. Don’t just look at them; call or email at least a couple to ensure that they are happy with their training experience.

Recommended Dog-Trainer Certifying Organizations

These organizations have unique education and experience requirements for trainer certification. Each promotes dog-friendly training; some go a bit further and specifically disapprove of dog-training methods that include force, pain, or fear.

Academy for Dog Trainers

Created by Jean Donaldson (author of the groundbreaking book The Culture Clash), the Academy for Dog Trainers is a two-year, part-time online virtual university program for dog trainers, offering education in all aspects of dog training, dog behavior, behavior modification, and more. Find Academy graduates here.

Animal Behavior Society

The Animal Behavior Society certifies behavior professionals with advanced degrees and experience in applied animal behavior. Find Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs) here.

Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers

This organization requires its certificants, called Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs), to document at least 300 hours of training experience, provide references, and pass a written exam. CCPDT also certifies behavior professionals (CBCCs). Find CPDTs and CBCCs here.

International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

The IAABC offers certification for behavior work with a variety of species, including dogs, cats, horses, and birds. Find Certified Dog Behavior Consultants (CDBC) here.

Karen Pryor Academy

Karen Pryor is a former marine mammal trainer and author of the landmark book Don’t Shoot the Dog (originally published in 1984), which launched the positive training movement. The Karen Pryor Academy, now administered by noted behavior professional Ken Ramirez, offers myriad courses, including the Dog Trainer Professional course, which awards a Karen Pryor Training Partner certification. Find KPA CTPs here.

Peaceable Paws LLC – Pat Miller Certified Trainer

I offer four levels of certification (PMCT) for trainers who have completed Peaceable Paws academies, starting with Basic Dog Training and Behavior and advancing through academies on Behavior Modification, Aggression, and Cognition Find PMCTs here.

Pet Professional Accreditation Board

The Pet Professional Accreditation Board (of the Pet Professional Guild) offers the only Accredited Training Technician & Professional Canine Trainer certification for professionals who believe there is no place for shock, choke, prong, pain, force, or fear in training and behavior practices. Find PPAB certificants here.

Veterinary Behaviorists

Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians who have done an additional intensive course of study in animal behavior. They address relationships between an animal’s health, environment, experiences, and behavior. They have extensive knowledge of psychotropic medications and are licensed to prescribe them when indicated. Veterinary behaviorists can be found through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (here) and through the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (here). The latter also provides a list of non-veterinary PhD behaviorists.

Victoria Stillwell Academy: School for Dog Trainers

Founded by world-renowned dog trainer Victoria Stilwell, the Victoria Stilwell Academy for Dog Training & Behavior educates and empowers aspiring dog training professionals to change the lives of people and dogs through positive training. Find VSA Certified Dog Trainers (VSA-CDTs) here.

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