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Questions to Ask When Adopting a Rescue Dog

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A meet and greet is an important part of meeting a rescue dog.
It’s important to spend time with your potential rescue dog so you can determine he or she is a good fit for your family. Credit: Kail9 | Getty Images

Adopting a rescue dog is a great way to help a dog in need, but it is critical to make sure that you know what you are committing to and that the dog will be a good fit for your family.

The term “rescue” can cover a wide range of situations, from a well-organized operation that has protocols for providing care and an established network of fosters to one person with a bunch of dirty crates in a back room. Rescues may be 501c3 non-profits, although this does not necessarily indicate quality or lack thereof. Some specialize in particular breeds or mixes, others focus on special-needs dogs who require extra care, and others take all comers.

Green flags for a good rescue are when the volunteers can answer your questions about the dogs, provide veterinary records, and the dogs are clean, relaxed, and healthy.

The fun part is figuring out which dog speaks to you and will be your perfect companion. Here are some questions to ask when considering adopting a dog from a rescue.

Where Is the Rescue Dog From?

Some rescue groups only take in local dogs, but others may have networks across several states. This is particularly common with breed-specific rescues. Many breed clubs for show dogs have an affiliated rescue group that focuses on helping dogs of their breed, picking them up from shelters and placing them in foster homes that are familiar with their behavior traits and needs.

Why is it good to know the dog’s original location? Some regions have increased health risks. For example, dogs from the southern United States are more likely to have heartworms, and dogs from the Midwest are at higher risk of having the fungal infection blastomycosis. Knowing where the dog came from allows you to assess possible risks and plan appropriate veterinary care and testing that might be necessary.

Is the Rescue Dog Vaccinated?

Rescues should provide a vaccination history. Best-case scenario, the rescue will have vaccination records from the previous owner. Worst-case scenario, the rescue should start the dog on core vaccines such as rabies, distemper virus, parvovirus, and leptospirosis. Bordetella (kennel cough) is another common vaccine, especially if the rescue houses many dogs in the same facility.

Depending on how long the dog was with the rescue before being adopted, they may need boosters of one or more vaccines. The rescue should provide clear dates on when vaccines are next due.

Has the Dog Been Tested for Heartworm?

Heartworm is most common in warm, moist environments, but dogs have tested positive all over the United States and beyond. Heartworm is a critical issue for rescue dogs because treating a heartworm infection is expensive and dangerous. Not treating it at all will ultimately be fatal.

Ideally, dogs should be tested for heartworms once they reach 6 to 8 months of age. If the dog tests negative, she should be put on a monthly preventive medication and then tested again six months later. Why the second test? It can take six months for an active infection to show up on the routine tests, so that second test is verifying that your dog truly is negative for heartworm. Only testing once in a dog with unknown health care history could give a false sense of security.

It is up to you if you wish to adopt a dog who is heartworm positive. The rescue may be able to help cover costs of treatment, and many of these dogs go on to live normal lives. But you want to know the dog’s heartworm status before adoption so that you can make an informed decision.

What Breed or Mix Is the Rescue Dog?

Breed or mix gives you a rough idea of what the dog’s training and grooming needs will be. This is especially helpful for puppies, as it gives you an idea how big the puppy will be as an adult. Depending on how the dog came to be in the rescue, the rescue may not know the dog’s exact breed/mix, but they will give their best guess.

How Many Homes Has the Rescue Dog Had?

There is no hard-and-fast rule on this one. Some dogs get passed through multiple homes through no fault of their own, while others are serially rehomed because they have severe behavioral problems. Knowing how many previous homes the dog has been through just gives you an idea of what her life has looked like up to this point.

What Is the Rescue Dog’s Personality?

Ask what the dog is like in a familiar environment, what her play style is, and how she responds to loud noises or new people. Find out how the dog handles restraint for basic grooming and veterinary care. If you have children or other pets, ask if she has been around them and how it went. Try to talk to the person or people who have spent the most time with the dog, such as her foster.

Keep in mind that personality can change as puppies mature and as the dog settles into a new home. The information that you get from the rescue and foster homes is a baseline.

Does the Rescue Dog Have a Bite History?

Adopting a dog with a bite history could be problematic for your renter’s or home insurance. If the dog has bitten someone before, ask about the circumstances around the incident. It may be helpful to consult with a veterinary behaviorist to determine if you have the skills to train and manage this dog.

What Is the Rescue Dog’s Health Status?

All dogs taken in by a rescue should receive a veterinary exam and have urgent health needs addressed. The dog should be healthy before being adopted out, or you should be provided with detailed information on what health concerns the dog has and what care is needed now or may be needed in the future.

Keep in mind that for many rescue dogs, we do not have any information on their parents’ health or their past health history. Happy bouncy puppies may develop symptoms of hip dysplasia as they mature, or the dog may develop kidney failure because of untreated Lyme disease before they came into the rescue’s care. A clean bill of health today is not a guarantee that the dog will always be healthy as neither the rescue nor the veterinarian has a crystal ball.

Has the Rescue Dog Had Any Training?

Rescue dogs can run the gamut from completely untrained hooligans to perfect well-mannered canine citizens. This boils down to the training and socialization that they received in their “first lives,” how long they were with the rescue, and what training resources and abilities the rescue and/or foster may have had.

Consider if you are comfortable taking on a dog who is a clean slate, or if you need a dog with some features already installed. Things to consider are house training, crate training, walking on a loose lead, and basic commands such as sit, down, wait, and come. Adult dogs who have developed bad habits can be difficult to house train and require patience and persistence. If you do not have a fenced yard and will have to walk your new dog on a leash, adopting a dog who already has some basic leash skills may be a must.

What Is the Rescue’s Application Process?

The adoption process will vary widely among rescues. Most will have some sort of adoption application form and ask about your current and previous pets, who your vet is, and if you have a fenced yard. These questions help gauge if you have thought through what it takes to care for a dog and if the dog you are interested in is a good fit.

Some rescues may ask for references or to do a home visit. You also may be able to do one or more meet-and-greets to get to know the dog before adoption.

What If It Doesn’t Work Out?

Even with the best intentions and planning from both you and the rescue volunteers, sometimes a dog who looks like a perfect fit on paper just isn’t. Ask what the rescue’s policy is on returning a dog, and if there is a specific timeframe for you to do a trial run to see if the dog fits with your family and lifestyle.

How to Get Rid of Nasal Mites in Dogs

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Nasal mites in dogs can be the cause of mysterious respiratory problems like sneezing, nose bleeds, and breathing trouble.
Nasal mites are invisible to the naked eye but can cause symptoms including sneezing, nose bleeds, and difficulty breathing. Credit: Justin Paget | Getty Images

Nasal mites in dogs are tiny mites that like to make their home inside canine nasal passages. These mites are highly contagious and difficult to identify but can be treated with a variety of standard antiparasitic medications.

What Are Nasal Mites in Dogs?

As far as dog mites go, nasal mites are one of the stranger characters. Formally known as Pneumonyssoides caninum or Pneumonyssus caninum, these mites spend their entire lives in the nasal passages and paranasal sinuses of dogs. They feed on keratin from the epidermis and live for about three weeks.

The mites are extremely small—only about a millimeter long—and can’t be seen with the naked eye.

Canine nasal mite infections have been found in dogs worldwide. They are usually transmitted by direct contact between dogs when an infected dog and an uninfected dog sniff each other. Indirect transmission may also be possible, as the mites have been found on other parasites such as fleas, lice, and flies which could potentially transport them from one host to another. They can survive in the environment for a couple of weeks.

Any dog can get nasal mites. Some studies have suggested that adult dogs over three years of age and large-breed dogs (with their larger noses!) may be at higher risk. The primary risk factor for contracting nasal mites is being around a lot of other dogs, as this increases the chances of coming across an infected dog.

The good news is that nasal mites in dogs will not spread to humans.

Does My Dog Have Nasal Mites?

Symptoms of a dog nasal mite infection include:

  • Sneezing
  • Runny nose
  • Nosebleeds
  • Head shaking
  • Rubbing the face
  • Reverse sneezing
  • Noisy breathing
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Trouble smelling

The symptoms of a nasal mite infection are not specific. This means that they can be caused by a variety of health problems. If your dog is showing any of these symptoms, he might truly have nasal mites, but he could also have something stuck in his nose, an upper respiratory infection, dental disease, an oronasal fistula (draining tract between the nasal passages and the mouth or throat), or even nasal cancer. Because of these wildly different possible causes, it is important to schedule a veterinary appointment to figure out the root of your dog’s symptoms.

Finding Nasal Mites in Dogs

Your veterinarian will start with basic bloodwork to check for signs of inflammation, infection, and a variety of common diseases. If your dog is experiencing nosebleeds, she may also run tests to check for bleeding and clotting disorders.

A nasal swab might show mites when your vet looks at it under a microscope, but it is often difficult to capture them. Using an external heat source may draw the mites out enough to be caught on a swab or seen with a magnifying glass. Swabs are usually more useful to send out a culture to check for common respiratory viruses and bacterial infections.

A CT scan is the best way to view the structure of the nasal passages and sinuses, checking for damage, foreign objects that were inhaled, and tumors. Regular x-rays may be helpful in some cases but often don’t give adequate detail to determine the cause of your dog’s symptoms.

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog truly does have nasal mites, she will probably recommend either rhinoscopy or a nasal lavage. Both of these procedures are performed under anesthesia because they can be disconcerting and stressful for the dog.

A rhinoscopy is when a tiny, flexible camera is inserted into the nasal passages to have a look around. The rhinoscope will allow your vet to look at the condition of the nasal passages and to see actual mites living deep in the nasal cavity.

For a nasal lavage, your vet will flush the nasal passages with saline and then suck it out several times. This fluid is then checked for nasal mites or any other debris that may have been dislodged. It can also be sent out for culture to check for viral and bacterial causes.

How to Get Rid of Nasal Mites in Dogs

Thankfully, the prognosis for nasal mite infections is excellent, and many dogs make a full recovery.

Even if your vet is not able to find nasal mites, she will still start treatment if she suspects mites are the cause of your dog’s woes. Treatment has two prongs: killing the mites and relieving your dog’s symptoms.

There hasn’t been much research done on nasal mites in dogs at this point, so we don’t know the ideal treatment. Ivermectin and milbemycin oxime, both common anti-parasitic drugs used in dogs, are the most commonly used. Topical selamectin may work as well.

To relieve your dog’s symptoms, your vet may prescribe steroids to reduce inflammation and/or antihistamines to reduce itchiness. If your dog also has a bacterial infection in his nose, he will receive antibiotics too. Sedatives may be necessary if your dog is highly excitable and is having difficulty breathing when he gets worked up.

If your dog is not responding to treatment and his symptoms stay the same or get worse, he probably has an additional health problem as well as the nasal mites. This is common. Now is the time to go back and do diagnostic testing that you might have bypassed initially, or to repeat cultures for viral and bacterial infections.

Home Treatment for Nasal Mites

Do not try to treat nasal mites at home without getting a diagnosis. Many different infections and illnesses can cause the same symptoms as nasal mites, and giving the wrong medication can have dire consequences.

Preventing Nasal Mites in Dogs

Regular preventive medications used to keep your dog free of fleas, ticks, and mange mites may also prevent nasal mite infections. Giving your dog these products year-round and keeping your dog away from dogs with a known nasal mite infection are the best ways to protect your dog from this parasite.

What If You Get the Wrong Dog?

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Sometimes the right dog ends up with the wrong person, and the best option is rehoming.
Remember, the traits that drive you crazy in a dog may be the key to winning some other person’s heart! Credit: Capuski, Getty Images

It’s a sad fact (but a fact nevertheless) that sometimes people adopt a dog or buy a puppy that turns out to quite unsuited for life with those people. Sometimes, it’s predictable—and could have been prevented, if only someone who knew better had been able to intervene in time—like the couple in their 80s who bought a high-octane small breed or a strong large-breed puppy because they had always had that type of dog before, or the super-busy family who buy a dog who needs a ton of exercise and grooming. In other cases, maybe they selected a dog of a breed and size that should have been appropriate for their family, but ended up with an individual with a personality and interests that are simply not well-suited for a peaceful, fun life with that family.

Note that I’m not talking about a dog with a dangerous propensity for serious resource guarding or unprovoked aggression—that’s a problem for another day. I’m just talking about dogs who are just a bad fit for their family, such as a dog with more energy than the family can possibly channel through enrichment or exercise, or a dog who turns out to be deeply uncomfortable with children in a family overrun with kids, or a dog who is committed to a couch-potato life (doesn’t like hiking, is scared of the outdoors, or just wants to snuggle on the sofa) in a family who enjoys outdoor activities daily. If no one is enjoying the dog in the first few weeks or months—and the dog doesn’t seem to be thriving in their home, either—what then?

I strongly believe that rehoming the dog quickly is the best course of action for all concerned, even though it can be difficult to cut both your financial losses (price of a pup, plus spay/neuter surgery, vaccinations, microchipping, etc. plus investment in training, crates, beds, gates, etc. etc.) and emotional ties. But when you compare the cost of all of the things you invested in during the first few months against the investment you will make over at least 10 to 15 or more years with a dog you just don’t enjoy—and who doesn’t enjoy you so much, either!—it should be apparent that it’s the right thing to do.

Finding an appropriate home in which to place your dog is not easy, however, even if the dog is an attractive or trendy breed. People often have an attachment to the concept of being a dog’s first owner—they want that personal history of the dog’s babyhood with them! If you have been experiencing a rough puppyhood with the dog, this might not make sense to you, but try to remember back a few months earlier, when YOU were the one who wanted a clean-slate puppy.

Be aware that it can be difficult to tap into a population of people who are shopping for their next dog. When most people make the decision to adopt, they tend to look for breeders or shelters; not nearly as many look on Craigslist.

Tips on Rehoming a Dog

If you’ve made the decision to rehome your dog, consider these tips:

  • Discuss returning the dog with the shelter, rescue, or breeder you got him from. Most rescues and shelters use a contract that requires you to return the dog to them if you choose not to keep him. So do good breeders!

Note that I am talking about returning a dog to the shelter only if you got him from the shelter. I don’t support the decision to bring a dog to a shelter simply because you have decided he’s not the dog for you—largely because the shelters are already full of dogs who are there because people couldn’t afford them or lost their housing, or their owners died. There are far more tragic stories than yours; personally, I don’t think “a poor fit” is enough justification to warrant surrendering to a shelter. I think those kennels should be reserved for true hard-luck cases where no other safety-net option exists to help.

  • Ask your friends and family members if they are interested in adopting your dog.
  • Make a post asking for help in rehoming the dog on your social media pages. Be honest; don’t misrepresent the dog, but be prepared to disclose the reasons why you need to rehome the dog to people who contact you. Be honest! If the dog has a problematic behavior—such as nuisance barking or housetraining failures—tell the person who is interested in him, and also tell them why you think you’ve been unable to deal with that behavior. Hiding the true reasons that have motivated you to rehome the dog is not only unethical, but it can set up the dog for abuse in his new home. (Also, what is a problem for you may not be a problem for someone else; for example, barking may not be as problematic for someone who lives in the country instead of an apartment; housetraining issues may resolve with a move into a home with a yard and dog door.) Finally, ask your friends to share the post.
  • If you’ve taken classes with a trainer, enlist the trainer for help with finding a new home. Ask if she can post a courtesy listing for your dog on the training business’s social media pages.
  • Ask your veterinarian’s staff if they have suggestions; they may know someone who recently lost a dog and might be looking for another one soon. Also, they, too, may have a social media presence where they could provide a courtesy listing for your dog, or even a bulletin board in their waiting room.

Remember, the traits that drive you crazy in a dog may be the key to winning some other person’s heart! “Too much energy” for your family may develop into someone else’s champion flyball or agility dog; a dog who is inactive and not very interactive might make an ideal companion to an older person who sit on a couch a lot! Do your best to find a family who is better suited for those dogs, so they can thrive!

Why Alpha Dog Training is Outdated

Alpha dog training stems from a misunderstanding about dog social groups, and has done immense damage.
Fear-free, positive reinforcement dog training techniques focus on building trust and respect between dog and handler. Credit: Mr Vito | Getty Images

The world of dog training can be a very confusing place for dog guardians, especially first-time owners looking for information about how to train their new puppy or adult dog. The internet only adds to this confusion with so much conflicting advice and opposing views. Outdated practices and philosophies of dog training, such as dominance training or the need to be the “alpha” pack leader persist, despite being debunked by modern science. Let’s take a brief look into the history of dog training to understand where practices like alpha dog training originated.

A Brief History of Dog Training

The rise of contemporary dog training began in the early 1900s with the publication of a German book called Training Dogs. This “how-to” manual was written by a police colonel called Konrad Most and the techniques within it resembled army drills designed to force obedience in recruits using corrections and punishment. Although his book was not translated into English until the 1950s, his methods reached Western society via his students, one of whom founded the Hollywood Dog Training School and became famous for training dogs that appeared in films such as The Wizard of Oz.

Later, the monks of New Skete published their bestselling book: How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend with a similar emphasis on discipline and dominance. Indeed, they introduced the “alpha-roll”—a technique to force submission—and solidified the master-servant relationship between owner and dog. Simultaneously, the book cemented confrontational and punishment-based methods of training while amplifying the perception of dogs as wolves in human homes who must submit to their masters (Greenebaum, 2010).

By the early 1980s, dog training was becoming much less the domain of men with military pasts. The field began attracting scientists and university students studying biology, ethology, and psychology who were interested in dog behavior and how to train dogs more effectively. These people led the change that saw scientifically proven methods introduced to the wider dog training community (Pręgowski, 2015).

The last two decades have seen an explosion in a branch of science called canine science—the study of dog behavior, learning, cognition, emotion, and welfare. We have also witnessed the human-dog relationship shift from being human-centered and one-sided to a two-way bond of mutual benefit. These new discoveries overwhelmingly support the efficacy and benefits of reward-based positive reinforcement training over the punitive alpha/dominance/pack leader philosophy.

Despite these discoveries, current methods used to train dogs range broadly with some using rewards and other non-invasive techniques (reward methods), others using mainly aversive stimuli (aversive methods), and still others using a combination of both (mixed/balanced methods) (Vieira de Castro et al., 2021).

What is Alpha Dog Training?

Alpha dog training stems from “traditional” dominance-based method of training endorsing obedience by using a human-centric approach that places dogs in a subordinate position in order to maintain their place in the family. Whereas the “reward-based” behavior modification method promotes a dog-centric approach that highlights companionship over dominance and promotes harmony between human and dog desires and needs (Pręgowski, 2015).

Alpha dog training relies on dominating and punishing a dog whenever she exhibits unwanted behavior. Common tactics include the “alpha roll” (physically forcing your dog to roll over on their back to make them submit to you), eating before your dog, not allowing the dog on the bed or furniture, ensuring you walk through doors before your dog, and always having your dog walk at heel when on lead. These tactics are meant to show your dog that you are the boss or the leader of the pack.

Issues Caused by Alpha Dog Training

Alpha dog training can cause a range of behavioral and emotional issues in dogs and even exacerbate the problems proponents claim the method solves. This is because these techniques rely on dominance and punishment and often cause fear, stress, and anxiety resulting in a loss of trust in the caregiver. Aversive training techniques like alpha rolls and physical corrections may suppress behavior temporarily, and appear to be effective, but they do not address the underlying cause(s). This can lead to increased aggression, more generalized fear, or even learned helplessness. Dogs trained using intimidation may comply in the moment due to fear rather than a true understanding of what is being asked of them.

Why Alpha Dog Training is Not Recommended

Alpha dog training is not recommended for several reasons. First, this method of training is based on an outdated and debunked perception of dogs and how we relate to them. Our understanding of dogs—particularly their emotional lives and behavior—has advanced significantly in recent years, thanks to an explosion of research in the area of canine science. This body of research, collected over the past 20 years or so, clearly demonstrates that showing dominance over your dog negatively impacts welfare and the human-animal bond.

Second, a body of research now demonstrates that common strategies utilized under the alpha dog method, such as physical punishment (yanking on a choke chain, hitting or kneeing a dog, or yelling at them) cause pain and fear and can harm the relationship between owner and dog. Rather, this research shows that using positive reinforcement training is not only more humane, but results in improved training outcomes and a better bond between owner and dog.

For these reasons, prominent veterinary, animal behavior, and animal welfare organizations, as well as fear-free trainers, do not recommend training your dog using “alpha” or “dominance” training techniques.

How to Train Your Dog Without Using Dominance

As stated above, our understanding of dog behavior has evolved significantly in recent years and it’s clear that force and intimidation are not only unnecessary but also counterproductive in training. Modern, science-backed dog training methods prioritize humane, positive reinforcement techniques that strengthen the bond between dogs and their guardians while improving learning outcomes.

Positive reinforcement training focusses on rewarding desired behaviors rather than punishing unwanted behavior. This approach helps motivate dogs while also ensuring they feel safe, understood, and eager to learn. By reading and responding to a dog’s body language and emotional state, trainers and guardians can communicate more effectively, reducing stress and frustration for both themselves and their dogs.

Fear-free and positive reinforcement trainers embrace these principles, using techniques including treats, praise, play, and life rewards to encourage desired behavior. They also understand the importance of setting dogs up for success by managing the environment and reinforcing desired behaviors.

By adopting reward-based training methods, dog guardians can build a trusting and cooperative relationship with their pets—one based on mutual respect and understanding rather than outdated notions of dominance.

Train a Dog to Ring a Bell

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Bell training a dog means creating an association between the ringing out the bell and going outside for potty.
The most important part of training your dog to ring a bell to go out is creating the association that ringing that bell means potty. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

My dog Siri trained herself to ring a bell that I had on the doorknob of the door leading into the yard. She used to just go and stand next to the door and stare at me if I was in the room. One day, I heard the bell ring and went into that room to see why. She was waiting patiently by the door, so I let her out (after telling her what a splendidly smart girl she was, of course). She took that to heart and from that moment on, she rang the bell anytime she wanted to go out into the yard. Sometimes right after she had just come in. It was sure cute, though!

So, the first thing I want to mention is that, although many dog parents want to train their dog to ring a bell to go outside (usually for pottying purposes), this is the option that dogs most frequently learn to use for alternate purposes, especially if you combine pottying with walks or if you have a fenced yard. I am careful to use alternate terms for simply going out to enjoy the yard as well as for walks.

What Kind of Bell Will a Dog Ring?

The type of bell you choose depends on the door location and the height of your dog. Some dog parents choose the type that hangs from a door handle. Others prefer a button-style that sticks on a wall. I start by making sure that the dog sees the bell and hears its sound before initiating the training. Please determine that it doesn’t frighten your dog beforehand.

Steps to Train Your Dog to Ring a Bell

  1. If your dog knows how to hand target train (and they should!), that is your starting point. I often use a sticky note, like a Post-it, added to my hand when asking for the “touch” or whatever word cue you use for that behavior. I personally use a marker word (yes!) versus a clicker, but you can use either. Obviously, I immediately follow the marked behavior with a high value food reward.
  2. Once the dog is reliably targeting the hand with the sticky note, I will transfer the paper to the bell/button. I still use my hand-targeting word cue at this point.
  3. Once the dog is reliability responding to the request to target the note on the bell/button, I create a new cue word for such. I say the original targeting cue and add the new cue immediately afterwards. Eventually, I will just use the new cue.
  4. Now, the most important part is creating the association that ringing that bell can result in you taking them out to potty. My go-to at this point is asking them if they need to go potty when they most likely do. Use your own term, obviously. They will usually visibly show you the answer is yes. Then you can request the bell-targeting behavior. If they don’t respond to that cue then, you can ring it yourself while repeating the “do you have to go potty?” request and then immediately take them outside to take care of business.

Repetition with this process is your friend. However, be sure that you will be able to hear this bell anywhere in your home so choose your bell wisely. And remember to differentiate. Trips outdoors through the same door whether for enjoying the yard or going for a walk versus potty should get different word cues to prevent confusion.  Happy bell ringing!

Livestock Guardian Dogs: Characteristics, Breeds, and Roles

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Great Pyrenees are a breed of livestock guardian dogs that also make good family dogs.
Great Pyrenees, like the dog shown above, are one of the breeds commonly used to guard livestock in the U.S. Credit: DMU | Getty Images

Archeologists have found skeletons of livestock guardian dogs lying side-by-side with sheep and goats in sites dating back 6000 years. Their images appear in pictographs found in the ruins of Babylon and Nineveh in ancient Mesopotamia, and in third to second millennium B.C.E. petroglyphs in central Kazakhstan. They likely arrived in Europe with nomadic shepherds from the Caucasus in the 6th century B.C.E.

Livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) are an ancient class of dogs whose sole purpose is to guard livestock such as sheep and goats. (Livestock guardians are very different from herding dogs such as Border Collies and Australian Shepherds, which help herdsmen move their stock from place to place.) First brought to the U.S. by Spanish settlers in the 1500s, livestock guardian dogs were nevertheless virtually unknown by most American ranchers  until the late 1970s. Since then, these dogs have become a staple for hundreds of ranchers throughout the country.

Characteristics of Livestock Guardian Dogs

Three crucial traits for any livestock guardian dog are:

  • Trustworthiness (not likely to roam, and not aggressive with livestock),
  • Attentiveness (situationally aware of threats)
  • Protectiveness (able to drive off predators)

Physically, LGDs are often in excess of two feet tall and upwards of 100 pounds with large, blocky heads, floppy ears, and water-resistant coats. Their coat color typically reflects not just their breed, but also the appearance of the animals that they guard: white dogs with white sheep, brown or grey dogs with dark-colored sheep or goats.

LGDs are usually introduced to their livestock as puppies—as young as 4 to 8 weeks of age. Because of this early bonding, the dogs are more likely to follow and protect the flock as if they were part of it. At one time, it was a widely-held belief that an LGD needed to be raised without human contact in order for them to form this bond. Yet historically, these dogs have always been part of traditional pastoralist families, and today’s ranchers have come to understand that human socialization is vital during the bonding process, and an important part of a LGD’s care and training.

Common Breeds Used as Livestock Guardian Dogs

Even though many people think of livestock guardian dogs as a “breed,” there is no single breed that exemplifies these dogs. Rather, there are many breeds which have been used over the millennia as livestock guardian dogs. Today, more than 30 distinct LGD breeds are found throughout the world, most of them associated with just one country or region. Here in the U.S., five breeds dominate: the Great Pyrenees is the most popular, along with the Akbash, Maremma, Anatolian Shepherd, and Komondor.

Great Pyrenees

The Pyrenean Mountain Dog (known in the U.S. as the Great Pyrenees, commonly called a “Pyr”) is a French breed that originated in the Pyrenees Mountains. Large and heavily built, the Pyr has a short, full neck, with a deep chest and long tail that hangs low much of the time, but curls over its back when the dog is aroused. This is one of just a few breeds with double dewclaws on its hind legs. Most commonly, the Pyr’s coat is white and extremely thick. When well socialized and trained, Pyrs can be gentle, affectionate, and devoted to members of their families.

Akbash

The Akbash is an ancient breed, native to western Turkey. After being brought to the U.S. in the 1980s, the Department of Agriculture began using these dogs as livestock guardians. Like the Great Pyrenees, Akbash are typically gentle dogs who can make affectionate, calm family pets; but also like the Pyr, they tend to be suspicious of strangers and can be aggressive if an unknown dog approaches their territory. They are large, lean, and muscular, and can weigh as much as 140 pounds. With a white coat, wedge-shaped head, and floppy ears, they have a long tail that curls over their back when excited.

Maremma

The Maremmano-Abruzzese Sheepdog, also known as the Maremma or Abruzzerse Sheepdog, is another ancient breed with its roots in central Italy. Today the breed is widely employed to protect livestock (particularly sheep) in Italy, the United States, and Canada. Because they share so many physical and temperamental traits—thick white coat, large head, floppy ears, devotion to their owners, and wariness of strangers—it’s long been suggested that the Maremma, Great Pyrenees, and Kuvasz from Hungary may share the same ancestor. The first Maremma Sheepdogs were brought to the U.S. in the 1970s for a research project exploring the effectiveness of livestock guardian dogs.

Anatolian Shepherd

The Anatolian Shepherd is a very large LGD that, like the Akbash, traces its lineage to ancient Turkey. With males weighing up to 150 pounds, this dog’s size alone could easily intimidate any predator threatening its flock. These dogs made their way to the U.S. in the 1950s; since then, their fierce ability to protect livestock has made them a highly coveted LGD. Unlike the Pyr, Akbash, and Mareema, the Anatolian Shepherd’s coat is mostly light brown, with a black face-mask.

Komondor

The Komondor’s appearance alone makes this breed stand out: its white coat is made up of long, white, felt-like cords, which grow longer with age and help the dog blend in with the sheep it guards. This LGD is the largest of all Hungarian breeds, thought to be descended from Asian shepherd dogs brought to Hungary around the tenth century. Although bred to guard flocks of sheep from predators, they are typically loving lapdogs with their families; however, like most LGDs, they are often suspicious of strangers and other dogs.

The Role of Livestock Guardian Dogs in the U.S.

Although a fairly recent addition to American ranches, LGDs have proven to be extremely effective deterrents to hunters like coyotes—which hold the distinction as being our most common sheep-killing predator—domestic dogs, mountain lions, bears, foxes, and bobcats. They’ve also shown themselves to an important part of alleviating  conflict between livestock, which ranchers necessarily need to protect, and predators, many of which are themselves endangered or threatened species. LGDs also offer a way for ranchers and ecologists to coexist, providing humane alternatives to lethal control methods such as poisoning and shooting, while supporting biodiversity and  conservation.

Do Dogs Have a Sense of Time?

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Dogs do have a sense of time, and can tell when you are behind schedule.
Your dog may not be able to tell you that it’s 7 a.m. and time to get up, but he knows you’re supposed to be awake now and downstairs with him. Credit: jules Clark | Getty Images

Dogs use natural circadian rhythms based on light cycles for much of their version of telling time. Dogs also tell time by the routines of humans in their lives. Waking, working, school, recreational activities, etc. all have telltale actions and accessories that help the dogs that we live with know what might happen next. They know that potty usually comes first when awakening, then perhaps breakfast and maybe followed by a walk. Or if you are part of the 9-to-5 workday crew, maybe walks take place after coming home from work and your dog spends the day sleeping.

And dogs love routine, which helps them develop a sense of time, even when home alone. The sounds of your neighborhood change with the time of day. Dogs can sense when you are due home by the sounds and even the smells of what is happening outside. Dogs can even tell whether your exit will be a typical routine exit or something altogether different based on your actions preceding such, the clothing that you choose to wear and even the smell of your body.  Different emotions create different smells in our bodies. They may act differently if your exit routine is different than usual as that may create more of an uncertainty about your return time frame.

And, yes, dogs are bothered by Daylight Savings Time changes.

Dogs and the Passage of Time

Dogs don’t tell time by a clock, but they can tell time “passage.” So, what happens when you go on vacation and are gone for longer than a workday or a dinner out? Well, ideally, you get your dog acclimated to something like that when they are young so that it’s not such a shock when they are say, 5 years old and you suddenly get a yearning to vacation overseas.

Will they notice how long you are gone? The short answer is yes, they notice by waking and sleeping cycles and meal cycles and how they typically pass the time. I think it’s likely more traumatic for them when they are boarded if this is not something that they have previously experienced versus staying in their own home with a known person. But every dog is different.

They cannot count hours or days like humans can. But they can tell that the time passed is different. Their greeting when you return will be far more exuberant than when you come home from work or dinner out. But again, if this is just another routine part of their lives that started as a puppy or an adolescent, then the extra time passage is less traumatic than it would be coming suddenly as an adult dog.

That said, routines are the bottom line here for helping your dog to better understand the passage of time, no matter what that routine consists of.

How to Spot Fleas Before They Infest Your Dog

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When is flea season? It can be all year round if you don't stay up to date on flea treatments.
A dog who frequently scratches may well be battling fleas. The longer you wait to address the problem, the more difficult it will be to eradicate. Credit: CMAnn Photo | Getty Images

The telltale signs that your dog has fleas are often subtle at first, but they can quickly escalate into a full-blown infestation if left unchecked and untreated. Signs your dog has fleas include:

 

 

  • Excessive scratching, biting, or licking: This is the most common symptom. Pay close attention to your dog’s behavior, especially around the base of the tail, belly, and inner thighs.
  • Hair loss: In severe infestations, hair loss can occur due to constant scratching and biting.
  • Skin irritation: Red, inflamed skin, especially around the flea bite areas, is a common sign. Small, raised bumps may also be visible.
  • Hot spots: These are red, inflamed, and often oozing areas that are secondary bacterial infections caused by the dog’s scratching at flea bites. They can spread quickly if not treated.

And, sadly, finding one flea on your dog can indicate he is infested.

Can Fleas Kill a Dog?

While a few fleas are unlikely to seriously injure a dog, a severe flea infestation can lead to serious health problems, and in extreme cases, dogs can die from complications. Puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with weakened immune systems are particularly vulnerable to these complications.

Heavy infestations can cause anemia (low red blood cell count), which can be life-threatening. Flea bites can also cause intense itching and irritation, leading to excessive scratching and biting, which can damage the skin and make it vulnerable to secondary infections. Dogs can also ingest tapeworm larvae when grooming themselves and biting at fleas.

How to Spot Fleas and Signs of Fleas

Adult fleas are small, wingless insects, about 1 to 3 mm long, with a dark, flattened body. They move quickly and can be difficult to spot, but you may see them crawling through your dog’s fur, especially when parting the hair. Finding even one adult flea or its feces (often called “flea dirt”) is a sign of an infestation.

Similarly, never spotting a flea on your pet does not mean they don’t have fleas. It may seem odd that your dog has flea allergy dermatitis if you never see fleas. This is because your dog has an inherent ability to find, chase and subsequently eat the fleas, according to UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine.

Telltale signs of fleas include:

Flea Dirt: Flea dirt, or flea feces, appears as small black specks and, when placed on wet paper, dissolves into reddish-brown streaks because it contains partially digested blood.

Flea Allergy Dermatitis: Flea allergy dermatitis is a common condition in dogs caused by an allergic reaction to flea saliva. Symptoms include intense itching, skin inflammation (redness, bumps, hot spots), hair loss, and secondary bacterial infections due to scratching.

Flea Bites: Flea bites on dogs appear as small, red, raised bumps, often clustered together. They are typically itchy, causing your dog to scratch excessively. The bites are usually most noticeable on the belly, groin, base of the tail, and inner thighs. The skin around the bites may become red, inflamed, and irritated. In some cases, secondary skin infections can develop due to scratching.

Is It Flea Season?

While fleas thrive in warmer weather, they can be a year-round problem for dog owners. Thanks to central heating and the resilience of the pupal stage of a flea’s lifecycle, the parasites can survive even in colder climates. They are often a year-round problem, especially in warmer climates.

Dr. Lindsay Starkey, of Auburn University, calls the notion of a specific flea season “a common misconception. Fleas and ticks can survive in winter. Pet and other animal owners need to protect their animals year-round.”

How Long Do Fleas Live?

The most common flea affecting dogs is ctenocephalides felis. The lifecycle of these consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The entire process from egg to adult typically takes two to three weeks. The pupal stage is particularly important because the pupa is encased in a cocoon that protects it from environmental changes, allowing it to survive in carpets, furniture, and bedding for extended periods. This is a key factor in year-round flea infestations. Adult fleas represent only 1% to 5% of the total flea population at any given time. The remaining 95% are in the egg, larval, and pupal stages, hidden in the environment. This makes it important that you focus on killing fleas in your house, before they get to your dog.

Fleas vs. Ticks

While often mentioned together and often treated with one preventative prescription from your veterinarian, fleas and ticks look and behave differently.

Fleas are small, wingless insects that jump. Ticks are arachnids (related to spiders) that latch onto the skin and burrow their heads. Ticks are generally larger than fleas and do not jump. Fleas have a four-stage lifecycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult). Ticks also have a four-stage lifecycle of egg, larva, nymph, and adult. Unfed ticks are flattened and teardrop-shaped. Larval ticks have six legs, while nymph and adult ticks have eight legs.

How To Train a Dog to Use a Pee Pad

Training a puppy to use a pee pad is different from training an older dog.
When training your dog or puppy to use a pee pad, it’s critical that you wait till they finish, then reward them with a high-value treat.

How to train a dog to use a pee pad depends on whether you are training a puppy to potty in an appropriate area or whether you are retraining an adult dog who may have been used to pottying outdoors but has become less predictable with elimination habits.

Dog training pads can be a great help with smaller dogs who are living in high-rises or dogs living with less mobile senior citizens without outdoor fencing. Small dogs have smaller bladders, creating a need to potty more frequently. It’s difficult for many owners to take a dog out to potty every couple of hours, so dog training pads can be a good solution. Senior dogs who are becoming less continent can also make good use of such.

Training a Puppy to Use a Pee Pad

Potty training a puppy to use a dog training pad to pee is incredibly easy. Utilize an ex-pen that is large enough to use one side of the space for such and the other side for relaxation purposes. The puppy will naturally seek an area away from where he relaxes to eliminate. The trick is to actively supervise the puppy so that you can name the act when it happens and immediately reinforce the puppy. Teaching the puppy the phrase that you want to mean said elimination can also help if you want to move forward with outdoor potty training. Consistency is key!

Mistakes Training a Dog to Use a Pee Pad

Never ever reprimand a puppy or an adult dog for making a mistake off the pad. Simply reinforce any attempt that gets near the pad versus in a living area. You can move the pad to where the accident is and verbally reinforce soaking it up. Or if the accident was solid waste, move that to the pad and verbally reinforce. With repetition, they will get it in no time.

The first rule of thumb in this context is to determine where in the home potty accidents take place.  Each area of the home that serves as a living area should also have an easy access “bathroom” for the dog in question. Place the pads in areas that may have seen a fair share of accidents. If that area is not where you prefer the pad to be kept, incrementally moving it to a more acceptable spot. However, do this at your dog’s pace, not your own, for best success.

If it’s helpful to keep pads as functional versus playthings, pad holders can be purchased to keep them in place. Use your previously taught potty word or phrase and be enthusiastic when verbally reinforcing a successful potty on the pee pad. Active supervision when transitioning to an indoor bathroom is helpful to preventing accidents.

Utilize the same protocols for outdoor potty training by noticing when your dog starts sniffing and moving out of the area. You can also consider using diapers or belly bands as a transitional tool until the pee pad training has been more successful.

It is also perfectly acceptable to use an ex-pen for containment with an adult dog when active supervision cannot take place. Follow the same guidelines as with a puppy if you opt for this option. With consistency, you should be able to pee pad train your adult dog in no time at all.

Is Your Dog Aging?

An aging dog is at greater risk for injury due to slipping or jumping.
One of the most important things you can do for your aging dog is to give them some traction on slippery wood or tile floors. Giving them a safe path of throw-rugs through the house can be a huge quality of life improvement. Credit: Helen St. Pierre

A quietly shocking truth sneaks up on the luckiest dog people, and it’s this: Nothing compares to the companionship of a senior dog.

Our graying, snoring, shuffling friends have been with us through it all. Their faces are woven through our photos, their presence a constant in our memories. They’ve greeted us with joy every time we’ve walked through the door. They’ve helped build our circles, weighing in on friends, relatives, and potential spouses. They’ve turned the couch into our happy place and given hiking a purpose. They’ve welcomed first babies, and later walked them to the bus. Their fur has absorbed the tears from the bad days, the breakups, and the scary test results.

By the time their muzzles are silver, they’re not just our dogs anymore. They have become our teachers, our therapists, and—for sure—our family. Our senior dogs carry a connection to our history that grounds us, and a wisdom that brings peace and calm to our home.

At this point, you will find that you want to slow down time, but you can’t. What you can do, though, is rise to the occasion. Rather than pretend it’s not happening or wish it away, you can equip yourself to truly be there for your dog just like your dog has always been there for you. You can learn to smooth out the hard parts about getting older and make this stage beautifully rewarding for you both. Just as humans need to lean on family more as they age, so do dogs. Their world will get a little bit smaller, but that doesn’t mean they have to experience less joy and love. That part is up to you.

Let’s start with what we can do to extend your senior’s good health as long as possible. Just as a human who’s been eating sensibly and doing yoga for a decade will almost certainly retain mobility longer than a smoker who’s a couch potato, not all dogs have the same shot at aging well. To increase the odds that your dog will be one who seems very much herself until a ripe old age, focus on the following things.

Exercise. The phrase “motion is lotion” is as true for dogs as it is for humans. Make a point of building in the right level of movement every day to sustain muscle mass and keep potentially arthritic dogs feeling their best. Develop a routine with a gentle, twice-a-day stroll at your dog’s chosen pace. Don’t get impatient when your dog wants to sniff one bush for five minutes—relax into the “sniffari” approach! That’s wonderful enrichment for a dog who can no longer romp and wrestle. Unbridled sniffing offers the brain-enrichment equivalent of old people doing the crossword to fend off memory loss.

Nutrition. It is incredibly easy to spoil an old friend with cookies, but to help him feel his best as he faces the ticking life clock, keep your dog’s body at the right weight and fueled by powerful nutrients. No, we’re not going to tell you to deprive your best friend of treats. Instead, embrace the idea of thinking small: We know you love to give him that large Milk-Bone. But guess what? With a tiny smear of cream cheese on the end of your finger, you can create the same gleeful moment that delights your friend. Or reach into the freezer and make a big deal of a frozen green bean. Then give ten more, one at a time, turning it into a game. Engagement and connection without a health downside is a win-win.

Stress Reduction. Pay attention to stress, which can exacerbate most health concerns. Think your dog doesn’t have any stress? Maybe. But it’s also possible that her days are filled with things she used to enjoy but that have now become sources of concern or discomfort. For example, it is natural for dogs who adored the dog park to have very little interest in play with other dogs as they age. Dogs who used to like nothing more than greeting all the strangers on a walk down King Street may begin to shy away from outstretched hands. It is easy to miss this change in enthusiasms. Train yourself to pay attention to body language, and make sure you help your senior dog opt out of now-stressful things. For example, rather than having her hang out in the middle of your second-grader’s birthday party, your senior may want to escape to the bedroom for a stress-reducing chew session with a frozen stuffed Toppl. (Use a nutritious combo, like moistened kibble plus plain yogurt, canned pumpkin, and a smear of peanut butter.)

Weekly At-Home Exams. Make a weekly date to gently examine your dog’s entire body. This is your chance to catch problems (say, lumps and skin infections) before they get painful or serious. Also, lots of aging pets come to the vet very matted, and their loving owners say they just don’t want to upset them by brushing. That’s understandable—see “stress reduction” above.  But if you create a weekly routine (brushing gently in 3-second sessions with breaks in between) those mats never have a chance to get started. Big mats hurt because they pull on the skin. Ear infections are excruciating. Long nails make walking painful and slippery. Down the road, there may be things you can’t do anything about, but these? You can make these “problems” disappear with just a little commitment, and this can make a dramatic difference in your dog’s comfort and health.

Non-Slip Rugs. Finally, the easiest suggestion of all: get some non-slip rugs! We constantly see dogs spending their golden years slipping on hardwood floors. Not only is it painful and scary for them, but it can create orthopedic problems. Please give them a safe pathway through their own home! If your dog’s behavior has changed (not drinking enough, not seeking out your company) it could be that her walk there feels precarious.

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Old age isn’t a disease, and keeping a clear focus on these basics can keep our loyal friends feeling as good as they possibly can throughout their twilight! For much more on living with seniors—including an incredibly important chapter on how and when to say goodbye—check out our new book: Old Dog, New Dog: Supporting Your Best Friend and Welcoming a New One.

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When a Cup is Not a Cup

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Nancy Kern is famous for telling dog owners their pup is overweight, but that doesn't mean her dogs are in peak physical condition either.
I suspect that the right amount is less than a full scoop/coffee cup. I weighed what feels like about the right amount to reduce Woody’s weight a bit. It was 5.42 oz, which is 0.85 oz less than a level cup and 1.6 oz less than a heaped cup. Credit: Nancy Kern

I’m infamous among my friends and colleagues for asking people if they are aware that their dogs are overweight. It’s because I have seen firsthand how fat dogs suffer in their senior years when they are too heavy to exercise without pain! And their burden of carrying extra pounds makes the ordinary aches and pains of arthritis even worse.

AND YET, I have to give myself a stern talking-to from time to time about helping my older dog stay trim.

Like many of us, when 9-year-old Woody was young, I could feed him any amount of food and he would just burn it right off; he was a highly active, athletic dog. But he’s older now, and his metabolism has slowed. He gains weight really easily now if I take my eye off the ball and slim him a few too many training treats, table scraps,  and (especially), a little too much kibble in his bowl twice a day.

For years now, I’ve been using the same coffee cup to scoop the food for both he and 3-year-old Boone.  Boone is a little smaller than Woody, but for the past few years, he has been receiving the same-sized scoop of kibble—initially because he was a growing puppy, and growing dogs need more calories per pound of body weight to support that growth, and more recently, because he’s naturally much more active than Woody is.

Woody used to run everywhere he went—even just from the sofa to the kitchen! But today, he only occasionally launches into a brief burst of zoomies; he tends to walk with the humans on our hikes, rather than with Boone and any other younger dogs who run ahead and run back and run ahead again for the entire hike.

So Woody is definitely burning fewer calories than Boone is, and for the past six months or so, I’ve really needed to reduce his portion of food a little, to prevent his weight gain. All I really need to do is scoop a tiny bit less for Woody’s serving than I scoop for Boone’s bowl—big deal! Except, I can’t seem to do this consistently! And the problem is that dang coffee cup!

Kibble is extremely nutrient dense and weight not volume is a better measure of calories.
Remember, kibble (especially a good-quality kibble) is extremely nutrient- and calorie-dense. A quick look at the bag tells me that this food contains 1,653 kcal per pound, which is 103.3 kcal per ounce. If I feed Woody a heaping coffee cup/scoop of food twice a day, he’s getting 1,450.33 calories just from his kibble every day (7.02 ounces times 103.3 calories times 2 times a day). But if I feed him less than a full coffee cup/scoop twice a day, he’ll be receiving 1,119.77 calories per day—330.56 calories less. That’s a very significant difference!

Like most coffee cups, it contains more than an actual cup of food, which was fine when that exact amount of food—heaped maybe just a tad above level—held just the right amount of food to hold Woody’s weight steady. But today, Woody really should be getting a little less than a level scoop in that cup—and there is my problem. How many pieces of kibble is the difference between a heaped cup, a level cup, and just a bit less than a level cup? How much less should he be getting?

The answer is: The amount should not be measured in cups—a coffee cup or any other kind! I need to start weighing both dogs’ food—not relying on a hurried glance to calculate the right amount. And the stupid thing is, I already have a kitchen scale that would make this task simplicity itself!

To make sure I absorbed the lesson I already know (but have been ignoring), I weighed the amount of food in my coffee cup/scooper when it was slightly heaped full of the kibble I am currently feeding, the amount of a level coffee cup full, and the amount I have been trying to feed (a little less than a full coffee cup). I also counted the individual pieces of kibble that made up each difference. My results:

A heaped cup (my coffee cup/scooper) contains 7.02 oz of the kibble I am currently feeding; a level coffee cup contains 6.28 oz, which is 0.74 oz less. (For the record, one level measuring cup contains 4.37 oz of this particular kibble.)

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