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The Best Dog Agility Equipment

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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0
The best dog agility equipment allows for safe dog training.
Dr. Andrea Lee and her young dog, BliZZard at the American Brittany Club National Specialty in 2025 going over the dog agility A-frame. Credit: Janice Barkby Brunner photo

Dog agility can greatly enhance the bond between owner and dog, and many agility handlers find training and competing quite addictive! Equipment can be expensive, but foundation and early training can happen in a large room of the home or a backyard with a few homemade jumps, a weave poles set, and perhaps a tunnel.

More advanced training requires that you can build a dog agility course to practice on. That means more equipment and longer, more complicated courses that need more space. Often, this kind of training takes place in dog-training facilities. You can absolutely start the sport on a budget, however. Most of us did!

How to Choose Safe Dog Agility Equipment

There are several categories of agility equipment, including jumps, weave poles, tunnels, tire jumps, a pause table, A-frame, dogwalk, teeter (or seesaw), and variations of jumps, like broad jumps and walls. You do not need everything, especially if you have facility where you can train, like a dog club or a lesson facility. What you do need is safe equipment for both you and your dog.

Recommended Agility Jumps

The greatest percentage of agility obstacles on any competition agility course are jumps. Jumps include sides with or without wings (wider sides built onto the jumps), a panel jump (a slat-type jump that looks like a solid barrier), and spread jumps of two poles (called a “double”) to three poles (called a triple) that require the dog be able to clear some horizontal distance. You may also see broad jumps (low, wide obstacles) and a wall jump, which appears solid and is wider than the panel jump. In some venues, you may encounter a table obstacle or a tire jump.

My Favorite Jumps: M.A.D. Agility has colored jump cups for each bar height, which makes it easy to set the bars correctly. I also have these jumps in my backyard because the weight the interior of their jumps to give their stanchions even more stability, even in windy conditions. Jumps run $150 to $400.

Budget Jumps: If you have access to basic tools, a store that sells PVC piping and fittings, and some elbow grease, you can build your own jumps. Jump cup strips are available through Clip & Go Agility, and they generously offer plans for wing and wingless jumps on their website.

My Favorite Agility Contact Equipment

This group of agility obstacles are the largest, heaviest, and most expensive. Contact equipment includes the A-frame, the dogwalk, and the teeter. Their correct performance requires the dog to place at least a portion of a paw in an end zone (usually defined by a contrasting color) at the end of the obstacle, demonstrating a controlled exit.

I am a fan of the Galican A-frame ($2,500 and available to ship to the USA through Run-It Ultimate Dog Agility Equipment in Canda) because it can be put on furniture sliders to move over turf, making course changes easy.

The Clip & Go dogwalk ($2,900) is my favorite dogwalk because it’s propped on wheels, and either end of the contact can easily be raised/lowered, making course changes easy. There is also little-to-no bounce to any part of the dog walk for even fast large breed dogs.

Any contact equipment in my backyard must have wheels for ease of course building and moving equipment to mow grass. Max 200, Clip & Go, and Galican have wheels either standard or can be added to an order. There are also A-frame movers that can be retrofitted to an A-frame without wheels. The Clip & Go dog walk, already on wheels, easy to move.

For the teeter, I like the Clip & Go teeter ($1,300) because of the speed-limiting cylinders on the base that help to reduce board bounce and whip as the end hits the ground, reducing chance of obstacle-related injury to the dog. But Max 200 ($600 to $650) is an excellent price and its  board is sturdy. Plus, the height is easily adjustable for training. I suggest you spring for the M.A.D. Agility’s Teeter Tote ($115), if you can. It makes moving a teeter easier in the backyard.

Budget Contacts: There are DIY plans for teeter bases. Most DIY agility enthusiasts don’t make their own contact equipment for higher level training because of equipment size, weight, and safety concerns. If the dog is a large or giant breed, training on equipment that meets the standards of one of the national organizations is recommended to make sure the equipment can handle the forces the dog will place on it.

That being said, one of the most useful pieces of equipment for foundation or maintenance contact training is a travel plank, such as the one from Clean Run ($140). It’s also available through most agility equipment suppliers (consider an “add on” purchase!) or can be pretty simply built yourself.

My Favorite Tunnels

Tunnels are fun! Also known as “puppy cannons” because most dogs fly through them, tunnels can vary in length between 20 feet to as short as 3 feet for training.

What I love to compete on: Clip & Go tunnels ($260 to $600) because of their sturdiness. Their tunnel bags ($50 to $75) are also a favorite of mine for design in handling the heavy, weighted bags that help keep tunnels in place while a dog is running through it (an absolute necessity).

What I have in my backyard for training are Max 200 tunnels ($230 to $540) because they’re a good price and high quality.

Budget tunnels: Be careful. I am not a fan of lightweight tunnels. My first agility dog ran through one of these and only made it halfway before he became a tangled mess of dog, nylon, and wire. Thankfully, he was not injured, but it scared me. Try to purchase the best tunnels you can afford.

My Favorite Weave Poles

Weaves are one of the hardest agility obstacles to learn. Most agility enthusiasts who compete even on a local level have weave poles at home to train.

What I love to compete on: M.A.D. Agility or Max 200 because they provide equipment for most national events, and dogs can become very accustomed to the pattern of the weave pole bases. Expect to pay around $500 for weave poles, give or take.

In my backyard, I have several sets of weave poles. My 2×2 weave pole bases allow one to create exercises for a short run of poles (i.e., 4 to practice entrances without excessive wear and tear on the dog) and a full set of 12 as long as one has 6 bases. An economical source of 2 x 2 weaves is Mark’s Agility Equipment.

Budget weaves: Stick-in-the-ground weave poles are ideal for beginners. J&J Dog Supplies can supply the bases and you can also purchase a ground strip with grommets every 24 inches to stick the spike of the stick-in-the-ground weave pole through to ensure proper spacing.

The Best Pause Table

The pause table is used less than in the past, but it does require some training to ensure correct performance.

What I love to compete on: M.A.D. agility pause table because of the rubberized top, durability, and a compact table leg caddy that helps to keep all those not-in-use legs organized.

In my backyard,  I have the Max 200 pause table with rubberized top and PVC base ($350). My dogs are all the same breed and use the same size table, so height switches are not necessary for me.

If you’re on a budget, like most of us when we started out, you can save some money here. I built my first agility pause table, and it did double as my coffee table when not in use! Clean run has a nice PDF on how to do it.

Final Thoughts on Agility Equipment

When considering purchasing or building agility equipment to train on, it’s important to consider the equipment standards for each organization you might compete in, assuming you plan to compete. For example, requirements for the height and length of the dogwalk, or the length of the boards for the A-frame can vary among agility organizations. Thankfully, for training purposes, there is quite a bit of overlap between most of the agility organizations:

It is possible to save money on quality agility equipment by pre-ordering and picking up new equipment at a national event or other large show, or committing to purchase equipment used for the event (slightly used). Equipment suppliers are often listed in the event premium.

Good used equipment can also be found online at sites such as Facebook Marketplace or Craig’s List. Sometimes dog training clubs sell used equipment as they upgrade equipment for competition. Again, when purchasing used equipment, consider the equipment specs for the organization you compete in most, as well as the condition of the equipment, keeping your dog’s safety in mind.

Treating Dog Eye Discharge at Home

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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4
Dog eye discharge, or dog eye boogers can be remedied with a variety of home treatments.
Dog eye discharge can often be treated at home with sterile saline solution, depending upon the cause. Dark tear stains like these require regular cleaning to control them.Dog eye discharge can often be treated at home with sterile saline solution, depending upon the cause. Dark tear stains like these require regular cleaning to control them. Credit: Tapanuth | Getty Images
Dog eye discharge, more commonly referred to as eye boogers, is a common concern for pet parents. The discharge can range from a mild, cosmetic issue to a sign of an underlying medical condition.
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What Is Dog Acne?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dog acne affects short haired dogs and puppies most often.
Sometimes a change as simple as to using a stainless steel water bowl can help keep dog acne under control, especially in acne-prone dogs like this German Shorthaired Pointer. Credit: Studio Porto Sabbia | Getty Images

As with human acne, dog acne is an inflammation of the skin of the face. Or, more specifically in the case of your dog, the skin around the lips, chin, and muzzle. Most cases occur in shorthaired dogs such as Great Danes, Weimaraners, and German Shorthaired Pointers.

What you will see are red bumps, pimples or pustules, and reddened skin in those areas. You may also see hair loss. It looks a lot like a moist eczema.

What Causes Dog Acne?

Dog acne is most often associated with a trauma of some sort that breaks off hairs, leading the follicles open to infection and/or inflammation. It is often as simple as your dog rubbing his face with his paws or perhaps on a carpet, resulting in dog acne on the chin.

Allergies cause many dogs to scratch their chin or rub it vigorously on rugs and furniture. An overgrowth of demodectic mites can cause out-of-control itching and rubbing.

Some dogs react to rubber or plastic food and water bowls and end up with acne on their chins and lips.

How to Treatment Dog Acne

Your veterinarian may do some cytology (touching a slide to the inflamed area and then examining it under the microscope) looking for bacteria, fungal infestation, or mites. Finding anything on the cytology can help to guide treatment.

Dog acne treatment stars the same as with any “wet” skin condition: You want to use a drying agent. Benzoyl peroxide is often the foundation of canine acne treatment. Gentle cleaning (do not pop pimples or pustules!) may be all your dog needs for a mild case. Dry the area after washing. A topical antibiotic ointment or oral antibiotics may be prescribed if there is strong evidence for a bacterial infection or if cleaning alone does not clear up the acne.

Medicated foot powder can be gently and carefully applied to the chin since it is antibacterial, antifungal, anti-itch, and anti-inflammatory. You need to be careful to keep any powder from getting into your dog’s eyes. The powder tends to taste bad, but even so, distract your dog for a couple of minutes after you apply it to keep him from licking it all right off. Note: Do not use human acne medications on your dog!

How to Get Rid of Dog Acne

Prevention is key when it comes to dog acne. If your dog has rubber or plastic bowls, switch over to ceramic or stainless steel. They’re easier to properly clean anyway, so it’s a smart switch even if the acne is not a reaction to the dishes.

If your dog is a sloppy eater, try to clean and dry his muzzle after eating. Dogs with beards such as Schnauzers tend to have food and debris around their muzzles that can lead to acne.

If your dog has generalized skin allergies or skin inflammation, treating that primary disease should help to clear up the acne.

Puppy Acne

Puppy acne is a Staph infection seen in the groin area of some puppies. As with adult dog acne, this should be cleaned gently—baby wipes work well!—then dried. Medicated foot powder can help here, too.

With puppies you need to be sure their environment is clean and dry, so they aren’t lying in wet bedding or other dirty areas.

Desensitization Can Change a Dog’s Behavior

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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2
Knowing how to desensitize a dog can help reduce aggressive over reaction to stimuli.
A reactive dog who has over-the-top aroused reactions to simple things needs a calm, targeted approach to desensitization training. Credit: Jaromir | Getty Images
Do you have a dog who has concerns about particular scenarios or triggers? It’s normal for any given dog to be uncomfortable about certain situations or sentient beings of some sort. After all, humans are as well. As humans, we can avoid some situations/people/triggers that cause us concern.
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Is Yogurt Good for Dogs?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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1
Dog's can eat yogurt and it might be healthy for them.
Your dog may be delighted to have a few licks of your yogurt, but the lactose may not agree with him. Greek yogurt may be better for dogs. Credit: Wesend61 | Getty Images

Yogurt is often viewed as a wholesome, probiotic-rich food, and many dog owners wonder whether it can be safely shared with their pet. The short answer is yes, yogurt can be good for some dogs, but only when the right type is chosen and fed in appropriate amounts.

Yogurt is not a necessary part of a dog’s diet, but it can serve as a healthy functional treat that provides beneficial bacteria, protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. However, because dogs do not process dairy as well as most humans do, understanding the nuances of yogurt types and ingredients is essential before adding it to your dog’s bowl, lick-mat, Kong, or Toppl.

Lactose Is a Problem for Dogs

One of the most important considerations when feeding yogurt to your dogs is lactose intolerance. Adult dogs are lactose intolerant, as they do not produce the lactase enzyme needed to break down lactose, the natural sugar found in milk, past puppyhood. When a lactose-intolerant animal consumes lactose, the sugar cannot be digested and creates gastrointestinal upset including gas, bloating, loose stools, and diarrhea. The severity of these symptoms varies widely between individual dogs, which is why some dogs tolerate yogurt well while others do not.

Traditional yogurt made from cow’s milk contains a moderate amount of lactose, although less than milk itself due to fermentation. The live cultures in yogurt consume some of the lactose during production, making it easier to digest than fluid milk.

Greek yogurt is often a better option for dogs because it is strained during processing, removing much of the whey and lactose. As a result, Greek yogurt is lower in lactose, higher in protein, and thicker in texture, making it one of the most commonly recommended yogurt options for dogs.

There are lactose-free yogurts available, which simply have the lactase enzyme added to them to break apart the sugar into a digestible format for lactose-intolerant people and dogs alike. This is a phenomenal option for pet parents looking to give their dog a fun treat without risking tummy troubles.

Concerns About Lactose-Free Yogurt and Dogs

Ingredient safety is just as important as lactose content when selecting yogurt for your dogs. Many flavored yogurts contain added sugars, flavors, and other ingredients that are unnecessary and potentially harmful.

Low-calorie, sugar-free, or “diet” yogurts are of particular concern as they may contain xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is extremely toxic and dangerous to dogs. Even very small amounts of xylitol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar causing seizures, liver failure, or death. For this reason, any yogurt given to a dog must be carefully checked to ensure it does not contain xylitol, which may also be listed under alternative names such as birch sugar.

Yogurt can be a safe, healthy, and delicious treat for dogs when chosen thoughtfully. As always, introduce new foods slowly and monitor your pet’s tolerance, keeping an eye out for signs of gastrointestinal upset. Plain, unsweetened, and preferably lactose-free, Greek yogurt is the best option for your pup due to low lactose and high protein levels. When fed sparingly, yogurt can be a simple way to add variety and beneficial digestive microbes to your dog’s diet.

What To Do When a Dog Whines for Attention

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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4
What can you do with a dog that is constantly whining for attention?
If your dog’s attention-seeking whining is driving you crazy, consider teaching them quieter ways to ask for attention—like putting their head on your leg—instead. instead. Credit: AleksandarNakic | Getty Images
If you’re living with a dog who is constantly whining for attention, you’re not alone. Many loving and attentive dog guardians find this behavior frustrating, especially when it feels relentless. The good news is that when you understand why your dog is whining, and how the behavior developed, you’re in a much better position to respond in a way that is kind, effective, and supportive of your dog’s wellbeing and your relationship.
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How Often Do Dogs Poop?

By
Dan Muse
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0
A dog should poop multiple times a day, but the exact amount can vary due to diet, exercise and health.
How often a dog poops depends on the individual dog. Diet, exercise, and age can all make a difference in poop frequency and consistency. Credit: Fotkam | Getty Images

How often do you think about your dog’s poop schedule?  You probably fall into one of two categories: You don’t think about it much beyond making sure you’re well-equipped with bags to scoop, or you obsess over the poop’s cadence, color, and consistency.

Neither extreme is ideal, but paying attention to the frequency, difficulty, and form of your dog’s poop does provide insight into her overall health and well-being.

Before you can determine your dog’s baseline poop habits (i.e., what is normal for her) and when to seek medical attention, you need to consider a mix of biology, diet, and lifestyle.

How Often Do Dogs Poop? What’s Normal for Your Dog?

While there’s no single answer to how many times a dog should poop, the number varies based on factors such as age (e.g., puppies go more often older dogs). Other factors include the dog’s level of exercise and overall diet. A sudden change in diet (and what types of human food your dog is getting into) is something to monitor, too, as that can result in diarrhea and altered frequency.

Various veterinary teaching hospitals and other experts—including Tufts University’s Cummings School, Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, and the Journal of Animal Science and Biotechnology—concur that healthy adult dogs settle into a pattern of two to three times a day, typically shortly after meals.

Dogs, of course, don’t all follow the same schedule. Several biological factors contribute to how often your dog needs to go. Again, puppies have high metabolisms and small digestive tracts and often need to eliminate almost immediately after eating. However, older dogs who have a slower metabolism may go less frequently.

What Factors Affect How Often Dogs Poop?

According to Tufts University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine, fiber plays a dual role in your dog’s diet. It’s a little tricky, though: While it helps firm up stool, excessive fiber can also increase the volume and frequency of bowel movements. Other factors include:

Mealtimes: The frequency of your dog’s meals contributes to her daily schedule.  A dog fed once a day may poop only once. Conversely, a dog fed three small meals is likely to have more frequent urges.

Exercise: Physical movement stimulates muscle contractions that move waste through the intestines. This is why many dogs poop shortly after starting a walk.

What Does Healthy Dog Poop Look Like?

Veterinarians don’t just want to know how often your dog defecates. They want to see what it looks like. The gold standard for assessment, one used by institutions such as the University of Missouri Veterinary Health Center and University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine, is the Purina Fecal Scoring System, a 1-to-7 scale used in clinical settings. The scoring system is:

 Score 1: Hard, dry pellets indicate dehydration or constipation.

Score 2 (the ideal stool): Firm, segmented, but not crumbly.

 Score 3: Moist surface, leaves a mark when picked up, but holds its shape.

 Score 4-5: Very soft, moist, beginning to lose shape.

 Score 6-7: Watery diarrhea with no texture.

 

When to Worry About Changes in How Often Your Dog Poops

A change in frequency may be an early sign of an underlying medical issue.

Cornell’s Riney Canine Health Center Veterinary groups suggests you watch for extreme shifts such as diarrhea. Most cases resolve on their own. However, according to Cornell’s Meredith Miller, DVM: “If a pet stops eating, is lethargic, the diarrhea is black or tarry in quality, there is associated vomiting, or the diarrhea doesn’t resolve in 48 to 72 hours then veterinary care should be sought.”

Conversely, if you suspect your dog is constipated you should bring him to a veterinarian if he hasn’t had a bowel movement for three days, displays pain (e.g.,  pacing, crying, hiding, and licking at the anus when trying to defecate, vomiting, or loss of appetite.

Can Probiotics Help Regulate How Often a Dog Poops?

Research from the Journal of Animal Science and Biotechnology highlights the importance of the gut microbiome in canine regularity. A balance of bacteria ensures that nutrients are absorbed efficiently, which stabilizes the frequency of elimination. If your dog has “unpredictable” frequency, veterinarians often recommend a clinical-grade probiotic.

When Should You Call the Vet About Your Dog’s Poop Habits?

While a single day of unusual bowel behavior is no reason to panic, the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recommends a visit to your vet if you notice:

  • Your dog tries to go but produces nothing.
  • Bright red blood in her stool dark or tarry stool an indication of melena.
  • Diarrhea or constipation that lasts longer than 24 hours.
  • If the change in pooping is paired with vomiting, lethargy, or a refusal to eat.

If you do decide to make a veterinarian appointment, remember to bring a fecal sample with you. That sample is a key part of truest way of knowing just how healthy your dog is.

The Best Automatic Dog Feeders

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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1
Automatic dog feeders offer the convenience of feeding your dog automatically and precise portion control.
The best automatic dog feeders offer precise portion control, easy scheduling options, and good capacity. Credit: Jae Thomas
Whether you work long hours, have a dog who needs to be fed at specific times every day, or want to take some of the guesswork out for your pet sitter, an automatic dog feeder is a convenient and easy way to schedule and portion your dog’s meals.
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Does Your Dog Know When You’re Sick?

By
Mary Schwager
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1
Dogs know when you are feeling sick and will often attempt to comfort their humans.
While every individual is different, there are countless examples of dogs recognizing and responding to human illness. Credit: Boris Jovanovic | Getty Images

A doctor told Heather May she had the flu, but the dog she adopted, a big yellow Lab named Scout, seemed to know something more serious was going on.

“I was home resting, and Scout would not leave my side,” May says. “He was on the bed with his head on top of me. He was refusing to eat. I didn’t know what was wrong with him.”

The Dallas, Texas-area attorney says she finally got Scout outside to potty in the backyard.

“I sat in my recliner because I felt dizzy, and the next thing I knew, Scout was scratching at the door, barking and banging,” May said. “I realized I was sitting in a completely different position in my chair than when I had sat down.”

When Scout came inside, he jumped into the recliner with her. “Then I lost time again,” May said. “At that point, I figured out I was having seizures.”

May stood up and tried to call for her husband upstairs, but she couldn’t yell loud enough.

“I got dizzy and grabbed one of the breakfast bar stools,” May says. “The next thing I know, I was on the ground flopping around, and I banged my head. Scout was trying to get underneath me as much as he could, and he was barking like crazy.”

When May’s husband heard Scout’s commotion, he ran downstairs, saw her on the ground, called 9-1-1, and EMTs rushed her to the hospital.

It turned out that the electrical signals in May’s heart were misfiring; she had a complete heart block, a life-threatening condition.

But how did Scout know something was wrong? Do dogs know when you are sick? Can they tell? Can they sense it?

Can Dogs Smell When You’re Sick?

Dogs may very well sense that you are sick because they can sniff out many illnesses and medical conditions.

Dog can tell when you're sick and will try and offer you comfort.
Dr. Stanley Coren’s dog, Wiz, would bring his favorites toys to his ailing human. Credit: SC Psychological Enterprises Ltd.

“When we are ill, our body chemistry changes, and we know that dogs can sense a good deal of that,” says Dr. Stanley Coren, Professor Emeritus in the Department of Psychology at the University of British Columbia, and an esteemed researcher and writer about the intelligence of dogs.

Researchers are still just scratching the surface when it comes to figuring out all the medical conditions dogs’ extraordinary noses may be able to sniff out.

Cancer, Covid, and neurological disorders are just some of the ailments scientists have confirmed dogs can sense.

Other Ways Dogs May Know You’re Sick

Aside from changes in smell, when a person is sick, they may be in pain or feeling stressed. Dogs may also pick up on that.

Studies have found that dogs can recognize rising cortisol levels, a hormone that increases when someone feels anxious or nervous.

Dr. Coren has witnessed this first-hand. Over the years, he’s trained his personal pups to be therapy dogs. He and his associates have taken them to group mental health counseling sessions, and they have always observed the same outcome.

“The dogs seem to recognize who needs the most care, and they will wander over to them in the group and pay attention,” Dr. Coren says. “We know that dogs can read those kinds of emotions. They can read who’s stressed and who’s afraid.”

Physical cues aside, many pup parents swear dogs “just know” when they need consoling when they’re sick. How do they pull that off?

“I think their disease detection abilities are something which we can train and use,” Dr. Coren says. “But dogs’ overall behavioral response to our illness is because of the emotional changes which the illness produces.”

Can Dogs Really Tell When You’re Sick?

Canines don’t only have incredible noses; they also have keen powers of observation and dogs have spent tens of thousands of years reading humans. It’s clear they’ve gotten pretty good at sensing our emotional states and knowing our habits.

“We have systematically bred [dogs] so that they are more responsive to us, so that they respond to our linguistic cues, and to our emotional cues,” Dr. Coren says. “They become very, very aware of your normal behaviors. So, if your behaviors start to drift from what is normal, dogs may begin to respond, and that seems to be at the basis of a lot of these behavioral changes we see in the dogs. They’re sort of monitoring our behavior and mirroring it, if you will.”

Dogs also become accustomed to their schedule; think of the “crisis” Daylight Saving Time causes when their usual dinner time is off.

“The major thing which triggers a dog’s responses when you get sick is that your routine changes and you aren’t doing all of the usual things that you do,” Dr. Coren says. “So, you may curtail your walks, and you’re certainly moving more slowly, or you might be bedridden, and that causes a problem for dogs.”

The double whammy of changes in a human’s actions and habits when they’re sick can be upsetting for our four-legged family members. “Dogs love the fact that behaviors are predictable and dogs love routine,” Dr. Coren says.

This renowned researcher even experienced this phenomenon with one of his own dogs, Wiz.

“Wiz was like most Cavalier King Charles Spaniels,” Dr. Coren says. “He was incredibly passive and friendly, but the only time that we ever saw him display any sort of possessiveness was over his toys.”

But years ago, when Dr. Coren was sick and stuck in bed, his illness seemed to prompt a change of heart in Wiz’s typical behavior.

“One day, I awakened from a long sleep, and I found that Wiz had taken three of his favorite toys and dropped them on my chest,” Dr. Coren says. “I figured that it was his way of responding to my illness by bringing his most treasured possessions.”

While there are many plausible scientific explanations about how your dog seems to know you’re sick, when they do try to comfort, console, or alert you, it feels like some interspecies canine connection that is nothing less than a miracle.

Canine Connections

In May’s case, luckily, she reached the hospital in time to receive a pacemaker, which is now helping regulate her heartbeat.

But she remains astonished by how Scout knew something was so dreadfully wrong.

Did he sense a change in her heart rate? (Which is also something dogs can detect.) Was it a change in their routine? Or a dog superpower researchers have yet to identify?

May may never know, but she plans to take it seriously if Scout, or any of her dogs, seems to be signaling something is not right.

“Listen to your dog if they start acting out of the ordinary or try to get your attention,” May says. “If Scout starts acting like that again, I will say, ‘Take me to the hospital, and I’m not leaving until you have run every workup you possibly can, because my dog is telling me something is wrong.”

Best Vacuums for Dog Hair

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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1
The best vacuums for dog hair combine convenience, ease of use, and functionality into a handy package,
No doubt about it: Finding a vacuum that will pick up all your dog’s loose hair is nearly impossible, but we’ve found two we really like. Credit: Ivan Ozerov | Getty Images

Dogs are fantastic, but let’s face it: Managing dog hair can be a daunting task. This is especially true if you have multiple large, double-coated dogs in your household. And even if your dog doesn’t shed much, he still brings in dirt on his paws (though in my house, my husband’s boots provide the most dirt on the carpet). You need a reliable vacuum for dog hair just to keep up.

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How to Choose a Vacuum Cleaner for Dog Hair

Here are some features to look for when choosing a vacuum for your dog-friendly home.

  1. Powerful Suction: Controlling dust bunnies takes work, and you need a vacuum able to do the job. This is especially true if your home has carpeting that grabs onto dog hair. In general, upright vacuums tend to have the most suction. But modern cannister and cordless vacuums are getting stronger over time and may be sufficient if your home is mostly hard flooring or low-pile carpet.
  2. Beater Bar or Roller: A floorhead with a beater bar or roller will help to loosen and pick up dog hair. Look for a product that has anti-hair wrap or detangling features or is called a “pet hair attachment.” This will minimize the amount of dog hair that gets wrapped around the roller bar instead of going up the hose into the vacuum.

Nylon bristles tend to grab more hair than rubber wedges do. Even if your vacuum has detangling technology, it is still important to check the floorhead and roller bar on a regular basis. Freeing any tangled hair promptly will prevent knots from getting worse and keep your vacuum working properly. If you have multiple dogs, it’s a good idea to check this area after every use.

  1. Large Dustbin: The larger the dustbin capacity, the less often you must stop to empty the vacuum. If you only have one dog and vacuum daily, this might not make a huge difference, but if you have multiple dogs and vacuuming keeps getting pushed to tomorrow’s to-do list, a bigger dustbin is a must. In general, upright and cylinder vacuums tend to have larger dustbins than cordless stick vacuums.
  2. Simple Emptying Mechanism: A vacuum dustbin should be secure enough to keep debris contained but opening it should not be like cracking a safe. Be sure that the vacuum you are considering has a latch system that makes sense to you and that will be easy to maneuver. This is especially critical if you or a family member have limited strength or mobility in your hands.

The emptying mechanism should also minimize dust clouds that poof out upon opening. Bags eliminate this issue, but to use bags you will need to choose a vacuum that is set up for bags and then remember to buy bags on a regular basis.

Some cordless stick vacuums have eliminated this issue with auto-empty docks. When you place the vacuum back into its charging dock, the dustbin automatically empties into a larger chamber inside the dock. Depending on the model, the dock might have a bag or a larger dustbin that can then be emptied manually when filled.

  1. Easy to Clean: No matter how well-designed a vacuum is, there is going to be some hair and dirt that slips through junctions or gets stuck in the wrong spots. Filters and collection chambers should be easy to access for periodic cleaning, and ideally there should be ways to access long hoses to free up any clogs.
  2. Detail Tools: Dog hair gets everywhere, and the vacuum’s floorhead won’t reach everything. We recommend choosing a vacuum with a variety of tools and attachments so that you can tackle corners, creases, upholstery, and stairs with one machine.
  3. Filters to Control Allergens: A HEPA filter is a great way to reduce dust, dander, and allergens circulating in the air after you vacuum. This is especially helpful if a family member or friend who comes over regularly is allergic to dogs or has asthma or any other respiratory disorder. This goes for dogs and cats with respiratory illnesses, too.

Best Vacuums for Dog Hair

ProductDescriptionPriceWhere to Buy
Dreame R20This lightweight cordless vacuum has good power and performs well on stairs, carpeting, and hard floors. It is versatile with a variety of attachments and converts to a handheld vacuum.$200 to $450Dreametech.com
Amazon.com
Dyson Ball Animal 3This upright vacuum is a beast, but its heavy weight comes with excellent suction (even on deep carpets) and a large dustbin. It is bagless and includes a HEPA filter. Dyson also offers higher trim models of the Ball Animal that include additional features and attachments.$350 to$450; fancier models up to $660Dyson.com
Chewy.com
Bestbuy.com
Dyson V15 DetectThis cordless stick vacuum tackles hair on all surface types and has an Auto mode that adjusts the level of suction based on the job. It has multiple accessories for different tasks, as well as a HEPA filter.$850Dyson.com
Chewy.com
Amazon.com
Eureka Mighty MiteThis canister vacuum is lightweight and does a great job with pet hair on hard floors. Its floorhead does not have a roller, which means you trade lack of tangles for less effective suction on carpet. It uses a bag system, and a long hose.$90 to $110Eureka.com
Chewy.com
Staples.com
Kenmore Elite 31150 Pet Friendly Bagged UprightThis upright vacuum uses a bag system and is certified by the Asthma and Allergy Foundation. It is a bit heavy but has excellent suction and large capacity. It also has attachments that are great for getting hair off bedding and furniture.$300 to $350Kenmore.com
Amazon.com
Walmart.com
SEBO Airbelt D4 PremiumThis canister vacuum has power to spare and sucks up hair off hard surfaces and carpeting alike. Many users comment on how quiet it is while still having great suction. Its long hose and cord make it easy to use on stairs and in large spaces, and the floorhead has a foam bumper to protect furniture and walls. It uses a bag system with an indicator to tell you when it’s full and includes a HEPA filter.$1500Sebo.us
Bestvacuum.com
Shark PowerDetect CordlessThis cordless vacuum has great suction and can be purchased with an auto-empty dock to quickly and easily empty the dustbin. It has an Auto mode that adjusts the level of suction depending on the level of debris. It performs well on carpeting and hard floors and runs for up to 70 minutes on one charge.$450 to $600Sharkninja.com
Amazon.com
Bestbuy.com
Shark Stratos DuoClean PowerFins HairPro UprightThis upright vacuum has a features list as long as its name. It has the powerful suction you expect form a good upright, and the hose and dustbin can lift away from the floorhead to convert to a canister vac for hard-to-reach places. It also has a HEPA filter and self-cleaning brush roll to prevent tangles.$530Sharkninja.com
Amazon.com
Bestbuy.com

Our Favorite Vacuums for Dog Hair

Shark

I am quite fond of my Shark upright vacuum. “Sharky Shark” has been serving in the trenches with me for eight years, battling the hair from two dogs for the first couple years and then rising to the challenge of three dogs and a cat. While I am a very dedicated animal caretaker, my vacuum care skirts the line of benign neglect: I do what I need to to keep the vacuum running but sometimes put off maintenance tasks longer than I should. I’ve had a few close calls where I thought it had perished but leaving it to sit in the closet for a few days did the trick.

My vacuum is a Shark Rotator Pet Upright. It has good suction on medium pile carpet and hard flooring but struggles on shag carpet (don’t judge: I rent!). The large dustbin grabs a lot of hair and dirt and is easy to empty. It is an older model, so it has bristles on the roller that trap a bunch of hair, so I check that after finishing each room. I can easily access the different filters, which can be cleaned by shaking them out and then rinsing with clean water and letting them dry before use. Hair does tend to get stuck in the top section of the dustbin before the main compartment, which necessitates emptying the dustbin more frequently. Dirt and dust goes straight through to the primary dustbin. It also has a variety of tools, and I can detach the handle to reach tight or elevated areas.

Shark offers a wide variety of vacuum products, including upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums. Prices range from $100 to $1,200 depending on the model and features.

Dyson

Dyson has a dedicated following among dog lovers, and Dyson makes an appearance on just about every listicle or forum thread about vacuums. Their products are space-age works of art that get the job done too. Dyson’s cordless vacuums have incredible suction that can match many upright vacuums.

Dyson boasts a wide range of tools and accessories, including Dyson’s Hair Screw Tool to remove pet hair from just about any surface. Vacuum models include upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums. Prices range from to $300 to $1150 depending on the model and features.

Runners-Up for Dog Hair Vacuums

These companies have all proven their worth in homes and might have the right product for your vacuum needs.

Dreame offers cordless vacuums and robotic vacuums. Prices range from $200 to $2,000 depending on model and features.

Eureka offers upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, canister vacuums, and robotic vacuums for every budget. Prices range from $40 to $1,000 depending on model and features.

Kenmore offers upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, canister vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums for every budget. Prices range from $100 to $450 depending on model and features.

SEBO offers upright vacuums and canister vacuums. Prices range from $650 to $1450 depending on model and features.

Bottom Line

While Shark and Dyson are our favorite choices, we have compiled other standout vacuums for dog hair in our chart. As with any major purchase, watch for sales and special offers to get a great vacuum at a great price.

Can Dogs Be Vegan?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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2
Vegan dog food is available, but is it good for your dog?
No one disputes that dogs like vegetables! They do. The question when choosing a vegan diet is whether it is nutritionally adequate to keep your dog health. Credit: Alexei Tm | Getty Images
Vegetarian and vegan dog food is a topic that generates curiosity, debate, and strong opinions among pet owners. Dogs are biologically classified as omnivores. This means that their digestive systems can handle a variety of foods, including plant-based ingredients.
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What Is Kennel Nose in Dogs?

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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1
Kennel nose occurs when a dog rubs their nose against a hard surface until it damages the skin.
Your best defense against kennel nose in dogs is to start when the dog’s a puppy, properly training so that he learns that a kennel, crate, or ex-pen is not a bad thing. Credit: Os Tartarouchos | Getty Images

Anyone who has had a dog who was stressed in their crate is sadly familiar with kennel nose in dogs. If you have not experienced this condition, that is wonderful, but you will want to better understand what is kennel nose in dogs in case you run into it.

What Is Kennel Nose?

This condition results from a dog rubbing their nose repeatedly against something, which often includes the crate/kennel. It can also be a result of rubbing their nose against other objects such as beds, bedding, fencing, or even while digging, but being kenneled is the No. 1 cause of kennel nose. A dog with kennel nose has a nose that is likely red and inflamed, possibly with scabbing, crusts, and even open wounds. The condition can vary in degrees of intensity from simple irritation to the point of bleeding and scabs that need first aid.

How Do You Treat Kennel Nose?

As far as kennel nose treatment goes, checking with your veterinarian is an important first option, especially if there are scabs and bleeding. You may want to gently cleanse the nose to prevent infection as well as applying a dog-safe antibacterial ointment. Your veterinarian can suggest an over-the-counter product or prescribe one.

If the nose is very irritated, you may need to consider an Elizabethan collar to prevent further damage. This will prevent further nose rubbing. But it will still require you to better determine the root cause of kennel nose in your dog so that you can prevent a repetition of such. Your dog will thank you for that.

Is Kennel Nose Due to Anxiety?

The root cause of kennel nose is anxiety of some sort. What caused the kennel nose will tell you how to prevent it but for actual crate concerns, you can easily prevent this from happening by teaching your dog that their crate or kennel is not a bad thing. If your dog is battling separation anxiety that causes him to rub against the crate, you should address that.

If your dog buries things with their nose situationally in specific contexts, then determine how you can help them relieve their anxiety about that situation. Do you have guest over? Is the normal routine disrupted? Are other household members, whether human or animal, being intrusive towards them? These are all important considerations to resolve the need to bury things with their nose.

Some dogs bury their belongings in their bed or bedding to such a degree that they end up with kennel nose. This type of behavior can be the result of a form of resource guarding that is less obvious as such. This type of resource guarding causes a dog to seem to feel overwhelmed at having certain items. So, they bury them to keep them safe. I have seen dogs do this with high-value items like bones or bully sticks, when they did not appear to feel safe enjoying them. Addressing this issue is a whole other article, however.

Observing your dog when you notice this type of nose burying behavior will help to identify the source of the issue. Identifying the cause will allow this condition to be better prevented.

Is Your Dog Bored?

If your dog is simply bored, then looking at their typical daily schedule with the goal of adding more enrichment should be the first order of business. A mentally enriched dog is a happier dog. Sniffing walks, problem-solving exercises, physical exercise, and even training games can add enrichment to their day and prevent boredom.

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