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The Healthy – Properly Functioning Canine Immune System

By
Roger Govier
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For a dog, the perfect life would have love, toys, sunshine, plenty of exercise, just the right amount of good food – and the one crucial thing which makes all of that possible: an immune system that works as nature designed it to work. For all “higher” organisms – from ticks to Texans – the immune system brings good health or takes it away. A healthy, properly functioning immune system operates like the world’s most omnipotent drug. When they’re at the top of their game, this system of body defenders can recognize and annihilate any invading viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites. But it’s an incredibly complex system, based in the bone marrow, and interacting intricately with both the blood circulatory and the lymphatic systems. Each part of the system plays a pivotal role in growing, developing, or activating the cells whose actions defend the body from invasion. This complexity, unfortunately, makes it prone to occasional lapses, and sometimes catastrophic failure. Even the healthiest dog is likely to suffer an immune malfunction at some point in his or her life – even if it manifests itself only as an allergy, a recurrent bacterial infection, or an entrenched bronchial virus. But some dogs, like some people, are born with fatal flaws in their immune systems, leaving them vulnerable to disease, and perhaps doomed to an premature death.

For much of the current century, medical science has focused on “fighting disease,” looking for drugs and other medical methods that could be used to destroy the bacteria, viruses, and tumors that threaten lives. But in the last 20 years or so, scientists have come to realize that treatments that help optimize the immune response might be just as effective, if not more effective, at preserving health. Of course, this confirms everything that holistic veterinary practitioners have been saying for decades: “If the dog is truly healthy, he can withstand any disease challenge.” Purpose of the system The immune system is often described in military terms, because it acts in such a similar fashion. The purpose of the immune system is to detect threats to the body and eliminate them, just as armies are supposed to identify threats to a government and put down those threats quickly. Infections – infiltrations, if you will – of any foreign agents elicit a rapidly escalating defensive response. When the system works as it should, the appearance of “invaders” alerts cellular “scouts;” either destroying them immediately, or marking them for destruction by other types of cells. If the initial skirmish is indecisive, the “cold-war” immune system quickly retools, and cellular reinforcements arrive in millions, precisely formulated to attack that particular invader, and programmed to recognize it should it ever return. At least, that’s how it works when the immune “army” is well-staffed, well-supplied, and well-organized. The immune system may actually respond in one of four ways to alien intrusions: • Appropriately: identifying and eliminating the problem before it threatens or inhibits life, as described above • Inappropriately: as when the immune system treats its own cells as invaders, causing what are called auto-immune disorders • Inadequately: as in cancers or immune deficiency disorders • Hyperactively: as with allergies Because there are a number of ways that the immune system can fail, there are a number of approaches that can be taken to rectify or balance the failure. Before you can help correct your dog’s off-kilter immune system, however, you have to know how it’s supposed to work. For example, you wouldn’t want to give a dog treatments that boost immune response if he’s displaying symptoms that indicate his immune system is hyperactive or attacking his own healthy tissues. In this article, we’ll describe the way the immune system is supposed to work. In the next issue, we’ll describe a number of common immune system failures – resulting from inappropriate, inadequate, and hyperactive immune activity – and explain how and where the system is breaking down in each scenario. The final part of this series will describe the most effective approaches, holistic and otherwise, to getting the immune system to act appropriately and effectively. Outside looking in In the course of a lifetime, a typical dog will confront a never-ending onslaught of disease-causing agents. As we all know, dogs seem to enjoy exposing themselves to foul things, deriving intense pleasure from activities which elicit our own most intense displeasure: rolling on carcasses, lapping up sewage, or snacking on last month’s garbage. Any pleasant walk out in the world, in short, can cause him to come home with unwanted (if invisible) visitors, including bacteria, parasites, viruses, fungi, and numerous allergens. Some invaders are more virulent or more cleverly insidious than others, but the power of an antagonist’s ability to make your dog sick depends on a number of factors. One critical factor is the amount of a given disease agent a dog is exposed to. In general, dogs who receive a higher dose of disease agent will display higher infection rates and more severe illness. The entry point of exposure is another important factor. Some viruses, for instance, won’t harm a dog at all if they are introduced to a wound (or even injected into the dog), but will cause extreme illness if breathed into the mucous membranes and lungs. Other disease agent factors include the number of other animals in a given environment (crowding), and local stress levels (including ambient temperature and humidity). Factors unique to your dog – “host factors” – also influence the odds that he will or won’t succumb to an invader’s influence. Most significant is the dog’s inherited predisposition to certain diseases. The quality of the dog’s diet, and nutritional deficiencies or imbalances can affect his ability to defend himself from disease agents. His general health and the concurrent presence of undiagnosed (and thus, untreated) illness will also affect his resistance to disease. Recognizing danger One significant task of the immune system is to identify cells, separating them into two categories: those normally present in the body, or those not normally present in the body – that is, cells that are “self” or “non-self.” Any “non-self” agent that elicits an immune response is referred to generally as an immunogen. The more foreign a cell is (that is, the more it is unlike “self”), the more likely the immune system will respond. Immunity begins in the bone marrow, where stem cells are produced. Stem cells are embryonic cells to which a series of genetic codes are attached. These stem cells are produced in enormous numbers each day, and, according to a coded genetic mechanism that scientists have yet to explain, differentiate into two distinct types of white blood cell (as well as others not directly of interest here) which populate the immune system. Stem cells mature in the thymus and spleen, and rely upon both the lymphatic system and the blood circulatory system to be transported where they need to go in the body. The first type of white blood cells, called myeloid cells, develop into the free-ranging “scout” cells which initiate a dog’s non-specific immune response. These interceptor cells, also called phagocytes, come in three known types: neutrophils (by far the most common) reside in the bone marrow and flow into the bloodstream when needed to fend off run-of-the-mill infections; eosinophils, which, generally, respond to parasitic infestations; and basophils, which trigger the release of histamines involved in allergic reactions. Related to phagocytes are the macrophages, literally, “great eater,” which often arrive first at the site of infection. First lines of defense We like to think of our dogs as entertaining, enjoyable companions. But to viruses, bacteria, and other invaders, our dogs are simply potential cites for incubation and reproduction. These foreign agents use every imaginable method of entry to infect our dogs: some are breathed into the body, while others are swallowed in food or water or absorbed through the skin. Fortunately, healthy dogs have formidable first lines of defense ready and waiting to destroy any intruders. Not many people are aware that the dog’s skin is a disease-preventing marvel, effectively shielding the body from legions of invaders. The mucous membranes and respiratory tract also contain agents that render foreign material harmless. In addition, the respiratory tract helps the body rid itself of foreign material; nasal hairs and mucous trap irritants and sneezes and coughs expel the material. Furthermore, the dog’s nasal mucous and discharge, tears, and saliva all contain cells that can neutralize invading cells. The gastrointestinal tract is similarly laden, and indeed is responsible for killing most microorganisms that are ingested. Any immunogens that are able to get by the body’s first lines of defense are met by the free-ranging phagocytes, also known somewhat generically as “scavenger cells.” Phagocytes are programmed to independently search for and destroy any invading micro-organism, no matter its identity. This response provides for what is known as non-specific immunity. Another general defense mechanism is the inflammatory response. When an injury allows bacteria and other foreign material to enter the body, the immune cells at the site of the injury cause the small blood vessels at the site to dilate, increasing the blood flow and “flooding” the area with more cellular defenders. This localized increase in blood and lymphatic circulation is responsible for the redness, heat, and swelling associated with wounds. Also swarming to the scene are the macrophages, who show up to consume dead bacteria and damaged tissues, “cleaning up” the crime scene, as it were. Macrophages also “call in some backup,” by attracting lymphocytes (another type of defender) to the site of infection, thus playing a crucial early role in immune response. Memories … of the way it was As it fights with a specific type of invader, the body sends in the second major kind of stem cells – called lymphoid cells or lymphocytes. Lymphoid cells come in two types: T cells, the so-called “smart” cells that play a number of roles, including actually orchestrating the immune response (more about that in a moment), and B cells, the memory specialists. These memory cells enable the lymphocytes to leap more quickly into action the next time they encounter the same enemy, and fight the invader with an attack designed to precisely and efficiently defeat it again. How do B cells recognize the bad guys? Their outer surfaces are covered with proteins, which defend the body by locking onto specific receptors on bacteria, viruses, and foreign bodies. These B cells are also known as antibodies. Each antibody is designed and developed to battle a specific invader. Each invader that has caused the formation of a specific antibody becomes known as antigen (as opposed to immunogen, the term for a generic invader). Among the millions of B cells circulating at any given time, only a few might “recognize” the antigens that they are supposed to, if only imperfectly. And if that “recognition” isn’t perfect – and this is the real life-saving magic of immunity – the B cells quickly mutate, ensuring precise identification of the invader by the next generation, then migrate into the bloodstream with millions of exact copies of that “marker” cell. The cellular “memory” provided by antibodies is the basis of long-term immunity against specific diseases, referred to as specific immunity or acquired immunity. In a healthy dog, however, the immune response to a serious challenge is sequential; the power of the response is calibrated by the virulence (or pathogenicity) of the antigen. Only gradually does the immune response reach the maximum effectiveness provided by specific immunity. About antibodies Humoral immunity is the result of the development and continuing presence of circulating antibodies, which occur in five known subgroups. Any imbalance among the five can cause inadequate or improper immune responses, or negate the intended protection offered by certain vaccines. The most common is defined as immunoglobulin G (IgG), which circulates in the blood and tissues, and tends to become activated only by entrenched infections of bacteria, fungi, and viruses. While much about IgG is still unknown, scientists know that it plays a crucial role in canine health. Immunoglobulin M (IgM) is the first antibody produced following exposure to an antigen. Its presence triggers the increased production of IgG. A third type, IgA, is a common source of immune malfunction. This antibody type is present in a dog’s various mucous membranes, such as the gastrointestinal and urogenital tracts, as well as the lungs. Because these surfaces are often the initial point of contact with antigens, IgA deficiencies allow deeper and more dangerous penetration of infectious agents. IgA is so important, in fact, that it has been given a separate designation, the secretory immune system. A fourth antibody type, IgE, is concentrated in the lungs, skin, and mucous membranes. It is both rare and extremely important for canine health. IgE reacts to the presence of parasites, and plays a role in the numerous allergies common among dogs. Dogs with allergic symptoms often show elevated levels of IgE in their blood. Scientists are still not certain about the function of the last known type of immunoglobulin, IgD. They know that it increases in quantity during allergic reactions to milk, insulin, penicillin, and various toxins, but they don’t know why. Cellular immunity While humoral immunity is all about protection by antibodies, cellular immunity is all about protection by T lymphocytes. There are four main types of T lymphocytes, commonly and more simply referred to as T cells. Each type is characterized, in general, by the ability to recognize and respond only to specific antigens. Cytotoxic T cells are programmed to find and destroy foreign cells which have been “pre-identified” by the scouts. They “recognize” only specific antigens, which could be viral, cancerous, or otherwise. Memory T cells will continue to circulate in a dog’s body even after an infectious episode has ended, and will respond for months or years when a particular antigen reappears. Helper T cells, among other functions, instruct immature B cells to produce antibodies against specific antigens. Suppressor T cells instruct B cells to stop an immune response. When suppressor T cells cease to function, as happens in a number of disorders, the immune system remains overactive. Only cytotoxic T cells directly kill antigens; the others, often referred as a group as regulatory T cells, direct the activities of other cells. Volumes more to know From a layman’s perspective, these are the best-known players in immune response, yet they are like chapter headings, a vast simplification of the biochemical processes involved. We’ve left a number of minor players out of this discussion. And the numerous “cells” referred to above, in fact, are molecules, cells upon cells. Antibodies are only a part of a vast immune messaging network constituted by many sub-groups and sub-sub-groups. In addition, the immune system communicates with the nervous system and with the intercellular hormonal network; in effect, the three eavesdrop on each other, and impact each other’s processes. Much can go wrong, and much is not yet understood. We’ve also simplified the discussion of disease agents, which are also intricately programmed to survive. Viruses mutate, in sometimes diabolical ways, each requiring that the immune system alter its response. Bacteria arrive in many different strains; the immune system might recognize one, but not another. Infections can even “hide” in what are called immunologically privileged sites, where the normal immune protections don’t apply . . . However, the terms we’ve defined above should help you understand the next two installations in our series on the immune system. In future issues, we will discuss some of these canine immune disorders – hypersensitivity, auto-immunity, and immune deficiency. We’ll also examine the numerous ways – both conventional and holistic – that have been devised to optimize the immune system. -By Roger Govier Roger Govier is a freelance writer from San Francisco. A dedicated owner of two shelter “mutts,” Govier has prepared articles on many of WDJ’s toughest topics, from cancer to vaccinations.

Massaging Your Dog Promotes Circulation and Well Being

By
Nancy Kerns
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Massage is a broad discipline that includes Swedish, Western, and sports massage techniques to name only a few. This series on canine massage will discuss several methodologies, but will begin by describing one of the basic Swedish massage movements and its physiological effects and benefits. Swedish massage has its origins in a system devised by Pehr Henrik Ling, a Swedish physiologist and gymnastics instructor who is considered the father of Swedish massage and also the father of physical therapy. Johann Mezger, a Dutch physician, promoted Swedish massage and is given credit for the French names of many of the movements. The five basic Swedish massage strokes are effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement, and vibration.

Effleurage (ef-flur-ahzh), the first massage movement we will consider, is probably the most frequently used of the Swedish massage strokes. It is a very basic and useful massage tool whether the intent is to relax, reduce stress, or rehabilitate. The name comes from the French word, effleurer, which means to “flow or glide” or “skim the surface.”

Physiological effects: Nourishing the tissues
Effluerage strokes have very positive effects on the body. A basic understanding of the working of the circulatory and lymph systems clarifies why effleurage is such a powerful tool.

Blood is pumped out of the heart in arteries, which, in general carry freshly oxygenated blood to the body tissues. The force of the pumping creates pressure in the arteries that helps move the blood through the vessels. The arteries branch into smaller and smaller vessels and eventually are reduced to tiny capillaries each with a diameter so small that the red blood cells must pass through in single file! It is from these capillaries that oxygen and nutrients can efficiently leave the blood stream to supply muscle, nerve, and other body cells.

After oxygen and nutrients have left the capillary network to nourish tissues, the tiny vessels pick up carbon dioxide and waste products such as lactic acid. The capillaries empty into venules, the smallest vessels in the system of veins that carry the blood back to the heart. The blood pressure in the veins is much reduced after passing through the capillary network. And the less muscular veins must rely on the contraction of surrounding skeletal muscles to literally squeeze the veins and push the blood along.

Veins have a series of valves that open as blood is forced through by the contracting skeletal muscles. Then the valves close to keep the blood from moving back in the wrong direction.

Interspersed in the capillary beds are the beginnings of tiny lymph vessels that play a major role in picking up excess fluid from between cells. These small vessels empty into larger and larger vessels that eventually dump their contents into veins, thus returning the materials to the circulatory system. Lymph vessels are similar to veins and have thin walls and a system of valves.

Go with the flow
Effleurage is always performed in the direction of the venous blood flow (toward the heart) to aid the movement of blood and lymph in the correct direction and to prevent damaging delicate vessel valves.

Varicose veins are simply veins in which valves have been damaged and cannot close tightly. Because the blood is not efficiently moved toward the heart, it pools, stretching the veins. Many veins lie very close to the surface and massage must be performed with this in mind. Effleurage against the direction of venous blood flow can potentially damage valves and create a similar problem.

This explains why effleurage of the limbs is performed from the knee toward the hip and from the toes toward the knee. This may feel unusual as hands move opposite to the direction that the dog’s hair grows, but it is important to maintain healthy vessels in the circulatory and lymph systems and to encourage the removal of wastes, toxins, and excess fluid from the region.

It is easy to see that even light to moderate pressure with effleurage warms the underlying tissues and can cause the arteries to dilate, increasing blood flow and bringing more oxygen and nutrients to the area. At the same time, moving in the direction of venous blood flow, the massage removes wastes and toxins and refreshes the tissues. Effleurage also helps dissipate swelling by promoting the movement of extracellular or interstitial fluid out of the region. In addition, effleurage has a soothing effect on the nervous system that facilitates relaxation and fosters a sense of well-being in the dog. So this Swedish massage stroke that appears so gentle, can in fact have very important health benefits.

An effleurage session
Before beginning any massage, it is important to consider why you will be massaging the dog. In other words, you need to establish your intent for the session. It may be to relax your canine friend, decrease stress, reduce swelling in some area, increase the range of motion in a specific joint or joints, or some other purpose. In any case, your overall intent should be to interact for the good of the animal. It is important to set the goal of the massage in your mind and to communicate your intent to the animal verbally or with positive images in your mind. After introducing yourself and establishing your intent, it is time to begin.

Effluerage resembles petting your dog and is sometimes referred to as petting with a purpose. Use an open hand or some part of it to glide over the surface of the coat, always moving toward the heart or in the direction of the venous blood flow (the blood returning to the heart).

The size of the dog or part of the dog you wish to address will determine the amount of contact you make with your hand. The entire palmar surface of the hand can be molded to fit the musculature of a large dog or even larger areas of a small dog. Smaller areas or smaller dogs may require that you effleurage with only one or a few fingers. Pressure should be light over thinly-muscled, bony areas such as the face, head, and legs, and moderate over large fleshy muscles.

The move can be performed with one or both hands. One-handed effleurage truly resembles a petting motion. Slowly glide one hand over the surface to be effleuraged. Your goal is generally to warm the tissues and increase circulation so movements should be slow and deliberate. Always keep the second hand in contact with the dog even if it is not actively being used in the massage stroke. This maintains a constant communication with the dog and keeps you aware of his body. For example, you immediately know if his muscles are relaxing or tensing.

Two-handed effleurage is performed by alternately stroking with one hand and then the other. As one hand is being lifted off of the dog, the second hand should be starting its stroke. Always have one hand in contact with the dog. The movements should be smooth and in a straight line. Obviously, two-handed effleurage is used most efficiently over larger areas.

Legged up
Special attention must be paid to the legs. Veins are very close to the surface and care must be taken to work with them and not against them. As noted above, you should always work in the direction of the venous blood flow. This means that the direction of the effleurage stroke is up the leg or from the toes toward the hip. One may effleurage the larger thigh muscles from knee to hip and the less fleshy part of the leg from toes to knee. When massaging from toe to knee, you may wish to lightly place one hand on either side of the leg and move up. The leg of a small dog can be encircled with fingers and thumb and effleuraged. Remember that the vessels are very near the surface, so use light pressure.

This is an excellent stroke to aid in reducing swelling in an elbow, knee, or hock, but remember to consult your veterinarian first for approval to massage a dog with a swollen joint. Never massage directly over a swollen region. Work below the swollen joint and above it with gentle effleurage. This will mechanically aid the veins and lymph vessels in the removal of excess waste materials and fluid from between the cells (interstitial fluid).

Effleurage is a powerful massage tool for puppies to seniors and all ages in between. Use it often to relax, promote a healthy coat and body, and to intensify the bond between you and your canine friend.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Mastering Canine Massage Skills”
Click here to view “Canine Massage Therapy”

-By C. Sue Furman

Author Sue Furman is an Associate Professor in the Department of Anatomy and Neurobiology at Colorado State University in Ft. Collins, CO. She is also active as a free-lance writer and teaches equine and canine massage classes. This article is adapted from material in her new book, Canine Massage, that will be available in spring 2000.

Too Mean To Keep?

By
Nancy Kerns
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I have a serious problem with my six-year-old neutered male Vizsla. He was a high strung, but good tempered dog for the first three years of his life. Something seemed to snap after that. He is loving and affectionate most of the time, but he gets aggressive when family members leave the kitchen (he and our other dog are limited to the kitchen and family room). He barks, snaps at them, and snags clothes with his teeth. He has never chomped down and bitten anyone, but he has scratched people with a tooth.

The worst part is that it has become unsafe to walk him. If we pass people, he exhibits the same behavior, barking and lunging at them. If someone talks to me, he barks even more and appears to be quite vicious. He has snagged the clothing of two joggers with his teeth, so I have decided not to walk him any more. We do have a large yard for him to run in. I am thinking of putting him down.

We have been to three sets of obedience classes (when he was between six months and one year) and he went to a trainer who worked with him with an electric collar. The electric collar works for controlling his behavior around dinner time but it does not seem to work to stem his aggression. It seems to provoke him even more. Is there anything we can do or have we reached the point where we have a dog we can’t control and we must put him down for the safety of others?

-Name withheld by request

We gave these questions to Pat Miller, WDJ’s regular gentle training expert. Miller, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, offers private and group dog training classes. For contact information, click here.

Aggression is always something to be taken seriously. Since you are considering euthanasia you obviously recognize this. Many owners of dogs with aggression problems are in denial until a tragedy occurs and someone – all too often a child or senior citizen – gets mauled. When you intervene pre-tragedy there is almost always something that can be done. Good for you for recognizing the problem before someone has been seriously harmed. The question is whether you have the time, ability, resources and commitment to do something about it.

When I work with a client whose dog has an aggression problem, the first thing I require is a complete veterinary workup to make sure there are no physical problems causing or contributing to the behavior. This is especially indicated when there has been a noticeable behavior change in an adult dog, such as you describe.

Pain can make us cranky, and it can do the same to our dogs. Blood panels and chiropractic exams are certainly in order here, hopefully by a veterinarian who has had some training or at least interest in dog behavior (many don’t) and who is familiar with – better yet, a practitioner of – complementary veterinary medical practices.

I also sit down and take a complete behavior history to determine if there have been any changes in the dog’s environment that could contribute to the problem. In your case, I can’t do that, but I am concerned about some of the information you did provide, particularly the use of an electric shock collar by one of your trainers.

Violence begets violence
I do not use electric shock collars, nor do I ever advocate their use. Although some trainers claim that they can be an effective training tool, the potential for negative side effects and damage to the relationship between dog and owner is far too great. In your case it sounds like it has actually exacerbated the aggressive behavior – a not uncommon side effect of the shock collar. You must stop using it immediately.

Punishment-based training techniques such as jerks on a collar, hitting, loud verbal reprimands, scruff shakes and alpha rolls can also contribute to an increase in aggression. If you are doing any of these I would also suggest stopping them immediately.

Aggression is caused by stress. One or more things in your dog’s environment have stressed him to the point of serious aggression, even against family members. The longer a behavior has been going on, and the more intense and successful the behavior, the more difficult it is to resolve. Your dog has been demonstrating aggressive behavior for three years, which makes the prognosis less bright than if he just started last week – but not hopeless.

Can aggression by modified?
There are two divergent schools of thought about modifying aggression. The punishment school, to which I do not subscribe, will tell you to punish him (jerk on a choke chain) when he shows aggression. The problem with this approach is twofold.

The first problem is that many dogs will fight back when you punish. This means that you must punish harder, until he gives in. If he doesn’t, according to punishment trainers, you might end up having to hang him until he loses consciousness. This is abusive, inhumane, and absolutely unacceptable, even if owners are willing to subject their dogs to such torture. Fortunately, most aren’t.

The second problem is that punishment doesn’t really change the way he thinks about whatever is stressing him. If anything, it makes the experience more stressful. It can sometimes succeed in suppressing the behavior, but the stress is still there, and the aggression may resurface under the right (wrong) set of circumstances.

The positive approach to resolving aggression focuses on changing the way the dog thinks about stressful stimuli through the use of counterconditioning and desensitization. Once he no longer thinks of it as stressful, he will not feel compelled to bite.

We do this by getting the dog to associate the presence of the stressors with something positive (such as really yummy food treats) to replace the negative association he now has. It is a long, slow process, and generally requires the assistance of a professional behaviorist. If you are serious about wanting to change your dog’s behavior, I would recommend that you find a positive trainer in your area who is committed to training without the use of punishment or aversives.

Options for action
There is no simple, quick solution to your dog’s problem. You and your family will need to honestly evaluate your resources and environment, and make a difficult choice from one of the following four options:

1. Keep the dog and manage his environment and behavior so he never has the opportunity to bite anyone. This means evaluating every situation that he might encounter that could trigger aggression, and figuring out a way to protect him from being placed in those situations. If that means being relegated to solitary confinement to the back yard, I would question the quality of life he would have. This is not likely to be an acceptable solution.

2. Find the dog a new home with owners who are aware of his problem and can be responsible about ensuring that he doesn’t bite anyone. Again, this is not a very likely scenario. The loving “home in the country” that accepts all of our unwanted animals simply doesn’t exist. There are millions of unwanted dogs in this country who do not have aggression problems and cannot find homes.

You have had your dog for six years, you love him, and you are seriously thinking of giving him up. Why would someone who has no emotional connection to him want to take on your large, aggressive dog? In the unlikely event that they did, you would need to be sure they were fully aware of the risks and liabilities, and their heavy responsibilities as the owner of a dangerous dog. You would also need to be sure they weren’t planning to use him for some nefarious purpose, such as junk yard guard dog or bait for fighting dogs.

3. Work with a positive trainer to modify his behavior. This is your dog’s best hope. While you may never have a dog that is totally trustworthy in all circumstances, it is quite possible that, with help, you can modify his behavior to the point that you and the rest of the family are safe and comfortable with him.

If you are considering euthanasia, it might at least be worthwhile to have a positive trainer in your area evaluate him in person and give you a prognosis. Then, if the prognosis is poor or the cost and risks too high, you will at least know you have made every reasonable effort.

4. Euthanasia. In my opinion, this is not an unreasonable choice. As much as we love our dogs, it is not OK to put our family at risk (especially if we have children) or threaten the safety of the community.

A dog who is constantly stressed to the point that he tries to bite is usually not a happy or healthy dog. If you are unable take the steps necessary to make him happy and keep the humans around him safe, then, in my opinion, a gentle death is preferable to a life of stress and isolation.

Apple Cider Vinegar: A Holistic Remedy for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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3

[Updated October 5, 2017]

You’ve heard of the benefits humans reap from apple cider vinegar, but is it safe for dogs? Apple cider vinegar, or ACV, is great for dogs’ health. Dogs benefit from using apple cider vinegar in nearly every way people do, both topically and by drinking it.

Apple cider vinegar begins life as apple juice or sweet cider. Then, fermentation of the yeast and natural sugars occurs, creating alcoholic or “hard” cider, to which a vinegar “mother” is added. The mother forms a gooey, slimy mass on the surface of hard cider, inoculating it with aerobic bacteria that convert alcohol to acetic acid, creating a new generation.

If you have ever made sourdough bread from a sourdough “starter,” you understand the concept. Cider vinegar mothers, some of which are centuries old, can be purchased from brewing supply companies or simply saved from a raw, unpasteurized, unfiltered cider vinegar that contains it, such as Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar.

Vinegar sold in the United States is at least 4 percent acetic acid, and most is between 5 and 7 percent acetic acid, the strength recommended for pickle making. Water is added to freshly brewed or distilled cider vinegar to dilute it to that strength. Brew supply companies sell inexpensive test kits for measuring the acetic acid in homemade or orchard-brewed cider vinegar.

Raw, unfiltered, unpasteurized cider vinegar contains all of the nutrients that survive the processes of fermentation and oxygenation, and its contents look suspicious, with bits of murky sludge drifting around or settled at the bottom. Don’t wrinkle your nose; this sediment is the signature of the most highly prized raw vinegars on the market.

Those who are old enough remember when Dr. D.C. Jarvis of Vermont made apple cider vinegar a household word with his 1958 best seller, Folk Medicine. According to Jarvis, native Vermonters used cider vinegar to cure migraine headaches, arthritis, diabetes, obesity, indigestion, and a host of other ailments.

ACV enthusiasts say that the apple cider vinegar remedies the same multitude of conditions in dogs, including:

1. Relieves or prevents arthritis

2. Improves digestion

3. Acts as a urinary system tonic, clears urinary tract infections, and prevents the formation of kidney and bladder stones

4. Improves the growth and condition of fur and hair

5. Good home remedy for bacterial and fungal infections

6. Reduces dog’s itchy skin, flaking, and dander

7. Makes one less attractive to biting insects like fleas

8. Helps prevent food poisoning

9. Acts as a natural antibiotic for dogs by interrupting the development of infectious bacterial and viral diseases

10. Relieves muscle fatigue

11. Alleviates itching

12. Improves ability to adapt to cold temperatures

13. Works as a home remedy for hock and elbow calluses

14. Works as a remedy to clear and prevent ear infections in dogs

For a more detailed list of ways ACV can be used for dogs, read “Apple Cider Vinegar,” (March 2017) by Cynthia Foley.

Many orthodox veterinarians scoff at such claims because they have never been subjected to the rigors of double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Instead they are supported by personal experiences, testimonials, and other anecdotal evidence.

Barbara Werner first tried apple cider vinegar when her golden retriever, Kate, was 10 months old. Because the puppy was allergic to chemical flea products, Werner was looking for a nontoxic repellent, and a show judge recommended cider vinegar.

Werner began adding ACV to her dogs’ food and drinking water, and she diluted it with water to spray on their coats. That was 11 years ago. Werner has been using it ever since, and Kate is still flea-free.

“In combination with a raw diet and garlic, it keeps biting insects away,” she says, “and I think it improves the dogs’ digestion and makes their coats glossy. I usually add it to the food processor when I puree their raw vegetables, and each dog takes about one tablespoon of cider vinegar per day.”

ACV is a natural preservative that inhibits the growth of bacteria, so it extends the refrigerator shelf life of pureed vegetables to a week or longer, making the blend convenient as well as nutritious.

Because it has a distinctive taste, Tellington TTouch practitioner Karen Doyle of Chester, New York, recommends cider vinegar as a flavoring agent. “When dogs travel,” she explains, “they are sometimes unwilling to drink water that smells and tastes different from what they are used to at home. Most dogs adapt quickly to the taste of apple cider vinegar and will drink any water to which small amounts have been added. Cider vinegar is inexpensive insurance against dehydration.”

Raw VS. Pasteurized Apple Cider Vinegar (and Why It’s Good for Dogs)

Although promoted as a nutritional powerhouse and an unequaled source of vitamins and minerals, especially potassium, cider vinegar contains less potassium than many if not most unprocessed foods. It has only minute amounts of other minerals, and its vitamin content is negligible.

Raw, unpasteurized cider vinegar does contain enzymes and other fragile nutrients that are destroyed by the heat of pasteurization or distillation. Advocates of cider vinegar usually recommend raw, unfiltered, unpasteurized vinegar that comes complete with traces of the “mother,” a slimy sediment that contains the bacteria necessary for conversion from hard cider to vinegar.

Unpasteurized ACV’s enzymes are said to improve digestion. “In addition,” says Beverly Cappel, D.V.M, “apple cider vinegar acidifies the gastrointestinal tract and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria. All of these factors are important to digestion.”

Stomach acid is essential to the breakdown and assimilation of proteins, and when age, stress, or other factors reduce the stomach’s secretion of hydrochloric acid (HCl), the result is incomplete digestion. Jonathan Wright, M.D., often writes about the links between HCl production and the condition of human hair and nails.

According to Wright, the incomplete digestion of protein caused by insufficient HCl is the leading cause of weak, brittle nails and hair. Nutritionally oriented physicians often recommend vinegar, lemon juice, or HCl supplements with meals for patients who complain of digestive distress or who have weak, splitting fingernails.

When dog owners add small amounts of apple cider vinegar to their animals’ feed and notice a gradually improving coat, stronger nails and firmer muscle tone, the reason may be improved protein digestion resulting from an increase of acid in the stomach.

Topical Applications of Apple Cider Vinegar

Apple cider vinegar can be diluted half-and-half with water for external application, and, when stronger measures are needed, it can be used full-strength.

When the male dogs attending a New England dog show experienced an incapacitating allergic reaction that made their testicles swell, Volhard declined the steroid shot offered by the attending veterinarian and instead applied ACV to the legs, testicles, and exposed skin of Cato, her male Newfoundland. The next morning he was completely well and took a High in Trial, while the other affected dogs needed weeks to recover. Volhard recommends ACV for dogs as a hot spot home remedy and preventive, itch stopper, general disinfectant, virus deterrent, food poisoning preventive, and flea and tick repellent.

Apple cider vinegar can be sponged onto a dog’s coat after a bath to remove soap residues and improve hair condition. Vinegar’s acidity and live enzymes are said to kill bacteria that cause flaking skin conditions. Soak the coat to the skin and let it air-dry. This same treatment is said to repel fleas and ticks. Rinsing a dog with apple cider vinegar after shampooing prevents dander. Just please note that apple cider vinegar will stain the coats of lightly colored dogs. For white dogs, substituting white vinegar works fine.

Apple cider vinegar cools the skin when applied to burns, wounds, or hot spots. You’ll want to apply full-strength ACV to topical wounds. It can be massaged into sore or sprained muscles and is the foundation of many herbal liniments that relieve pain and inflammation.

To maximize apple cider vinegar’s benefits for your dogs’ skin, add to it a blend of calendula, comfrey and St. John’s Wort before applying.

Apple Cider Vinegar Controversy

Not everyone, however, agrees that apple cider vinegar should be given to dogs. Pat McKay, canine nutritionist and author of the natural diet book Reigning Cats and Dogs, doesn’t like cider vinegar, and she doesn’t mince words; she calls it poison.

“I believe Peter J. D’Amado is on the right track in his book, Eat Right for Your Type,” she says. “Each of the human blood types has an ideal diet, and the diet recommended for type O most closely resembles the meat-based diet on which dogs evolved. D’Amado warns that cider vinegar is very damaging to this type, and I agree with him. I happen to be a type O, and apple cider vinegar has always made me feel miserable. I never knew why until I read his book. I believe dogs have a similar reaction because even small quantities of vinegar can throw their bodies’ pH out of balance.”

Marina Zacharias, pet nutritionist and publisher of Natural Rearing newsletter, shares McKay’s concern about pH levels. She recommends that owners have their dogs’ blood and urine tested before adding cider vinegar to their daily diet.

“If a dog’s system is too alkaline,” she says, “cider vinegar will help, but by itself it may not correct the problem and the dog will need additional support. If the dog’s system is too acidic, which is a condition called acidosis, the result can be stress on the pancreas and adrenal organs, which are important regulators of blood pH levels. The symptoms of acidosis range from diarrhea or constipation to low blood pressure, hard stools, and sensitivity of the teeth and mouth. Often we see acidosis in combination with other conditions, such as kidney, liver, and adrenal problems. In certain cases, adding vinegar to a dog’s food could aggravate an already-existing problem in the body.”

Are adverse side effects likely? If a dog is allergic to vinegar, he might vomit, scratch furiously, or have a similarly obvious reaction. Although there is much debate on this issue, some believe that vinegar may worsen chronic ear infections. Long term use of ACV on dogs who are sensitive to it has been associated with tooth decay and bone deterioration. Too much could also inflame a dog’s mouth and esophagus.

“You have to apply common sense,” says Sue Ann Lesser, D.V.M. “Most dogs are notoriously over-alkaline, and cider vinegar will help them. If a dog’s system is overly acidic, you’ll see clinical signs, such as obvious symptoms of illness. I know quite a few dogs that take cider vinegar according to the directions in Wendy Volhard’s book, and I don’t know of any that have had bad results.”

In her book The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, author Wendy Volhard recommends using pH paper strips to check the dog’s first morning urine. “If it reads anywhere from 6.2 to 6.5, your dog’s system is exactly where it should be,” and no ACV is needed, she says. “But if it is 7.5 or higher, the diet you are feeding is too alkaline, and apple cider vinegar will reestablish the correct balance.”

Volhard recommends one teaspoon to one tablespoon twice daily for a 50-pound dog.

Apple Cider Vinegar as a Cleaning Agent

Although vinegar’s promoters recommend raw apple cider vinegar for topical and internal use, distilled white or cider vinegar can be used as a cleaning agent, reducing your dog’s exposure to cleaning chemicals. In her book Apple Cider Vinegar, Patricia Bragg, N.D., Ph.D., lists dozens of uses for vinegar in the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, and garden.

Some ways to use vinegar for cleaning include: disinfecting pet toys and pet bedding, deodorizing pets, using apple cider vinegar on dogs after the hydrogen peroxide treatment for skunk sprays, and getting stains out of carpets (with white vinegar).

Apple cider vinegar may be an “unproven remedy” by FDA standards, but many dog owners swear by its internal and external benefits. In the 1990s, when the 0157:H7 strain of E. coli first sickened thousands around the world, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University food scientist Susan Sumner, PhD, discovered that spraying vinegar and hydrogen peroxide on raw meat, vegetables, cutting boards, and other kitchen surfaces disinfected them more effectively than chlorine bleach or any commercial kitchen cleaner. Applying one after the other (in either order) with a mist sprayer killed virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, and E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces. That’s a particularly helpful piece of information for those of us who raw-feed our dogs; adding a little ACV to a dog’s raw food effectively kills the dangerous bacteria that might be present.

Because it is inexpensive, widely available, nontoxic, and easy to use, apple cider vinegar will remain a popular remedy through the 21st century.

Also With This Article

Click here to view “Apple Cider Vinegar For Dogs”

Author C.J. Puotinen is an herbalist and holistic pet care expert as well as author of Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care. A frequent contributor to WDJ, Puotinen is also author of a number of books on herbs. She lives in New York state with her husband and a Black Lab named Samantha.

Mangy Mutts?

By
Pat Bradley
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[Updated January 30, 2019]

I have a litter of Boxer puppies and two young female Boxers with a slight case of demodectic mange. I’ve been told so much conflicting information about this condition. I’ve been told by several vets and breeders that demodectic mange is not contagious, but is a genetic disorder brought on by stress or a lowered immune system. One vet (who breeds Boxers) told me it IS contagious and I should put my dogs to sleep! These are my babies; there is no way I’m going to destroy them over a skin condition they aren’t even hurting from. They never scratch or itch.

I am treating the older dogs with a homemade dip (1 quart kerosene, 1 pint turpentine, 1 pound sulphur, 1 gallon used motor oil) every 10 days and it is clearing up. The pups are getting 1/2 cc of injectable Ivermec once a week. I gave one pup away and their vet dipped it at eight weeks old and she died a week later after being very sick for two days.

shelter dog with mange

Please help me with answers to these questions:

What is demodectic mange caused by? Why are Boxers so susceptible to it? How can all these puppies be affected by it when I know for a fact that none of their parents or even grandparents ever had demodectic mange? How would you recommend treating it in an older dog, and how would you treat it in puppies?

– Name withheld by request

One of my dogs (a German Shepherd) has localized demodectic mange. She has slight hair loss around her nose and mouth. My veterinarian gave me some Goodwinol ointment to put on her, but she licks it all off right after I put it on her, which I don’t like.

Is there a more holistic method of dealing with this? Can demodectic mange be cured?

– Name withheld by request

To answer this question, we turned to veterinarian Pat Bradley, of Conway, Arkansas. A graduate of Louisiana State University, Dr. Bradley practiced conventional veterinary medicine for 10 years before opening an all-holistic practice, specializing in veterinary homeopathy in 1995.

There are three types of mange, and each has its own challenges for the dog’s owner. Only one, sarcoptic mange, causes severe discomfort for the dog. I’ll discuss them each, from least serious to most serious.

“Walking Dandruff”

Cheyletiella mange, the least serious, is also known as walking dandruff, due to the enormous amount of dandruff that is produced in response to the cheyletiella mange mites that live on the dog’s skin. These mites spread quickly to other dogs, but the resultant symptoms tend to be short-lived, and the itching the mite causes is mild.

Demodectic Mange

Demodectic mange is caused by irritation from tiny mange mites that live in the dog’s hair follicles. For this reason, it is also sometimes called follicular mange. It is also called red mange, because it usually starts out looking like patchy hair loss. Dogs often get it around the face and around the eyes, and on the feet first. Most of the time, it doesn’t make the dog itch or scratch; it just looks awful.

Demodectic mange is caused by the demodex canis, a tiny parasite, but it is considered by the vast majority of vets to be an immune system disorder, because these mites are found on many healthy dogs with no symptoms of skin disease at all. I have spoken to veterinarians who thought there was a contagious component to it, or that mothers could pass it to the puppies. I think it is more likely that the immune system disorder is genetic, and that the puppies inherit their poor immune system from their mother.

I personally believe the theory that dogs get mange when their immune systems are not functioning well, when the dog’s body fails to mount an adequate defense against the mites and keep their populations under control.

An Immune System Failure

Demodectic mange is most common in puppies, and this is thought to be attributed to the fact that the puppy’s immune system is too immature to control the problem. Some breeds do seem to be more susceptible to it than others, but they are probably the breeds who have more immune problems than other dogs. I have seen a lot of mange on Boxers, pit bulls, and Rottweilers – basically, these dogs (and others) who tend to have weak immune systems overall. And of course, immune system problems don’t just plague certain breeds, they plague certain lines within the breeds, too. For this reason, demodectic mange tends to be a pure-bred disease, although any dogs, including mixed breeds, can get it.

It is also common that dog who are under a great deal of stress, such as lost dogs and shelter dogs, will break out in demodectic mange. Other circumstances that stress the dog’s immune system can also cause an outbreak.

Back when I was in traditional practice, when I was still using steroids for itchy skin conditions, on several occasions I saw mange break out on dogs that had been given steroids. Often in those strange cases, it would turn out that the dog had had mange when it was a puppy, or the dog had been adopted from a shelter and had an unknown background – possibly including mange. Some pregnant or nursing dogs sometimes break out in mange, as do some females in heat. Some old and sick dogs will suddenly break out with demodectic mange.

Local or Generalized Mange

There are two forms of demodectic mange. One is localized, where a dog just gets little spots where the hair falls out. Most of the time, this type will go away on its own, with or without treatment.

Then there is generalized demodectic mange, which covers a larger percentage of the body. In some dogs, the generalized mange never goes away, although a good percentage of dogs stop getting it after they reach adulthood, unless they get really stressed.

Treating Demodectic Mange

Traditional treatment for the generalized type usually involves a dip or other topical treatment. But most dips and other topical treatments don’t touch the mites, because they live so far down in the hair follicles. The most effective dips contain something called Amitraz as the active ingredient. It is pretty toxic, and the dogs can get pretty sick afterward. The standard treatment is a dip once a week, for four to six weeks.

Obviously, I wouldn’t recommend this approach; I think that exposing the dog to this kind of toxin will cause more damage to his health than any potential benefits are worth. I do know some veterinarians have some success using things like Amitraz. But I’m not certain you can properly credit the dip when a young dog gets over the mange, since most young dogs will outgrow the problem anyway.

Most veterinarians have heard of or seen dogs that have been treated with homemade dips made of things like kerosene or turpentine. Most of those preparations are used for sarcoptic mange, but you do see them being used from time to time for demodectic mange. All of these homemade preparations are potentially life-threatening to the dog. Petroleum distillate poisoning is the most likely result of those treatments.

Boosting Immune Health

I would recommend the same treatments for a dog with demodectic mange as I would for any immune-stressed dog: I would put the dogs on some immune-stimulating herbs, such as echinacea and goldenseal (adjust the dose by your dog’s weight, according to the label recommendations for an average 150-pound person), make sure that the dog isn’t vaccinated any more than absolutely necessary, and stop using anything toxic on the dog or feeding the dog any toxins, such as foods containing artificial preservatives and colors.

I’d also tell the owners to try to keep the dog as unstressed and emotionally happy as possible – no sending them off to a boarding kennel or off to a show – and not to let the dog get pregnant and run down.

I’d also recommend improving the dog’s diet: get him the best food you can; a fresh, raw diet is best. A good vitamin/mineral supplement would be advisable, but at a minimum, I would supplement his diet with extra vitamins C, A, and D. I would recommend some fresh garlic in the diet; it helps with every skin condition.

In my experience, homeopathy has been very effective for helping puppies with demodectic mange. However, it is important for a homeopath to take an individualized approach to suggesting the best remedy for each dog with mange; there is no single magic remedy.

Since it is considered as a genetic problem by most vets, many recommend that a mangy dog is spayed or neutered; some go a step further and suggest that the parents of the dog are spayed and neutered. There are some breeders, of course, that really strongly disagree with that. I will just comment that it will help lower the stress on the dog’s system – and therefore, help the dog defeat the mange – if it is not being used for breeding. But I have never heard of anyone suggesting that a dog be euthanized for having mange; that’s pretty extreme.

Sarcoptic Mange

This is the most dreaded type of mange, because it is terribly contagious – to other dogs AND people – and makes the infected dog or person itch horribly. It is better known among humans as scabies.

It’s easy to differentiate sarcoptic mange from demodectic by examining a skin scraping under a microscope. The two different types of mites look very different. Demodectic mange it looks like a little cigar with legs. Sarcoptic mange is very round; it looks like a little tick with legs.

However, it can be a challenge to get a good skin scraping from a dog with sarcoptic mange (which in itself is a clue that the offending mite is sarcoptic, not demodectic), because the skin gets so damaged, and oozes so much keratin and blood after a few weeks of intense itching, that it makes it difficult to find a mange mite in a skin scraping.

Scabies Easy to Treat on Dogs

The good news is that it is relatively easy to get rid of. Usually, just one or two dips with an over-the-counter preparation will do the trick. For sarcoptic mange on puppies, you have to use much milder shampoos, rather than using a dip. Sometimes the dams will have sarcoptic mange and the puppies get it when they are born; you can see it on them when they are really little.

In cases where a litter of pups has sarcoptic mange, I recommend that they are kept in the bathroom, where the floor can be washed with a bleach solution every day, and all their bedding can be washed, too.

Ivermectin is sometimes used to treat sarcoptic mange. Ivermec, an injectable form of Ivermectin, is labeled for use as a cattle dewormer. Its use for mange is what is called “extra label use,” which, strictly speaking, is illegal. The injectable form is a highly concentrated substance, and you have to be extremely careful with it. Some vets do use injectable Ivermectin for sarcoptic mange, but they really should dilute it.

A dog’s skin can get terribly damaged from scratching when he has sarcoptic mange. He may require some antibiotics if he gets a bacterial infection, or even some steroids to help relieve the itching.

Appreciation Day

By
Nancy Kerns
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This is just a quick note to let you know how delighted I am with WDJ. I have ordered and received all the back issues, and am still working my way through them. (I already have a holistic veterinarian and use veterinary chiropractic services occasionally.) I also faithfully cook for by two blessedly healthy dogs.

I have been following the discussions on dog training with great interest, and am now curious: How are service dogs trained? How are the dogs in government service (customs, drugs) trained?

Also, in addition to the “dry” shampoos mentioned in the November issue, I would like to mention “Fur Foam” as possibly worthy of your research. It’s made by Beaumont Products, Inc., Kennesaw, GA, 30144. I found it in the Pet Sage catalog, and use it with great success on my Samoyed. In the past, he had some diarrhea problems, and you can imagine the mess. This no-odor shaving-cream type preparation both cleans and deodorizes. It’s too expensive for a complete “bath,” but super for occasional spot-cleaning.

-Annie Tipton
Harrison, OH

 

Thanks for your kind words and suggestions, Annie. You’ll get your answer about certain types of service dogs in this issue (See “The Smell of Success.”) Readers can ask to receive the Pet Sage catalog by calling (800) PET-HLTH or (703) 823-9711, or looking up www.petsage.com.

———-

First, I must tell you how much I enjoy WDJ. I have learned so much from your publication in the areas of nutrition, learning behaviors, and what products are better for our pets. Our household has two dogs; one is a yellow Lab and the other is a stray we found and, of course, kept. Our stray had many health problems and also many behavioral problems, but over the years he has improved both physically and mentally. He is the main reason for this letter. Since we have found him, whenever we travel he has gone to the same socialized boarding kennel. But we just received word that the kennel is now for sale!

An article in the October 1999 issue listed a few socialized boarding kennels. Do you know of any way to obtain information on where I might find another such kennel in South Carolina? I have been unable to locate one through the Internet, friends, or yellow pages.

-Linda King
Beaufort, South Carolina

 

I don’t know of such a list, but I know at least a few thousand dog owners who would like one. Readers? Any ideas?

———-

I was very skeptical when asked to send in and get a free copy of your newsletter. So when I received my first issue, I quickly sat down to read the information at hand.

I do appreciate the information that was offered regarding nutrition and medical attention for dogs. But I was very disappointed in the “Product News and Reviews” section.

First of all, a very biased opinion was given in this column in regard to the clicker. I have been training my own dogs as well as teaching group classes and private lessons for some time, and I was offended that some of the methods I and many other people use being called “archaic.” I consider myself a very positive and motivational trainer, but the minute that some of these people forget to deal with canines as animals, the enjoyment of what a dog is can be completely taken away.

There are many training methods available, but to limit oneself to only one is not what I would consider the “Whole” picture.

To say that the euthanasia room is where these dogs will end up due to using these methods is ludicrous. Rather, look at the irresponsible breeding going on and of course the LACK of training – this is the big problem.

Please discontinue my subscription. I find the best reading and information is from a variety of sources, not from such a tunnel vision approach.

-Sherma Miles
Highland, UT

 

We’ll admit it: We ARE biased toward non-violence, and don’t plan to change.

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I just received my first issue of WDJ and to my great surprise I found an article on a problem I have right now: fighting between alpha female dogs in a multiple dog household.

I have a 12-year-old female Lhasa Apso, and I recently took in two older, female Norfolk terriers from rescue. I expected a little snarling and snapping while the girls were adjusting, but the oldest, most frail-looking female Norfolk, bit the other two dogs, drawing blood.

I was advised to accommodate the alpha female by allowing them to fight it out, or by supporting the alpha in ruling over the other two. But I decided that in my household the only alpha female would be me! This is “our house,” for dogs and humans alike, not the jungle!

Looks like I made a wise choice subscribing to the Whole Dog Journal.

-Christine Schmidt
Preston, CT

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I’ve been struggling with myself for months now. I have wanted to volunteer at our local Humane Society to walk dogs and have even called to see what is required of me. I enjoy and love dogs so much and my own dog, Jesse, is getting too old for walks longer than a half-mile; that leaves me with another two to three miles to walk dogless!

However, the problem is that I cry when I even think of a dog being euthanized. Even now I can feel that lump growing in my throat!

But after reading your editorial, “Doing it for the Dogs” in the November issue, it has made me realize that even though I have a hard time dealing with this it will be worth it to know that I might make a difference in whether or not a dog is adopted or euthanized. Your article has made me realize what is important and that is the dogs. Thank you.

-Connie Erickson
via email

 

Thank YOU, Connie! I feel like a real success, hearing that I’ve motivated even one person to go volunteer at a shelter.

Best Summer Reading List for Dog Owners

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Summer is here! Whether you are packing your bags for a luxury cruise or making a glass of lemonade and heading for the chaise lounge in the back yard, it’s a great time to grab a couple of good books and catch up on your reading.

As we all know, dogs are hot – and not just in the panting-in-the-sun sense. An excess of books about dogs have been published in the last year, with numerous titles on dog training, care, psychology, and more. But while you can find something interesting in almost any dog book you read, we prefer to spend our precious free time reading those that have lots of useful information.

What follows, then, are our recommendations for the books that should go on the top of your summer reading list. We looked for books that are fun to read, well-written, advocate the use of positive training methods, and offer lots of useful information on dog care and training that would apply to a wide audience.

Our advice would be to forget the cruise – pick up a couple of these books, put dibs on the chaise lounge, and save a spot in the shade for your canine friends. Look in your local bookshop, or call the dog book catalog sources. Happy reading!

Click here to view the WDJ’s book reviews.

-By Pat Miller

One Thing After Another

By
Nancy Kerns
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It all started one cloudy day, just as the temperature starting dropping at night and the leaves of the maple trees in town started turning tan. Overnight, the clear blue sky turned cloudy, we had our first fall rain –and the ants came marching in. They went straight after the cat’s food, which caused poor Rupert weeks of trouble.

How can an ant hurt a dog? I should say, how can a veritable army of ants harm a dog? In a not-so simple chain reaction.

I feed my cat on the top surface of a bookshelf by the front door. It’s the only place in the house where the cat can have access to her food and water all day long, without Rupert helping himself, and without her hourly comings and goings annoying my husband, who, as I’ve said before, would prefer that all cats and dogs lived outside, all the time. (What’s the point of that?)

But then it rained, and the ants came in the house, as ants are wont to do when it rains. They always enter via a new and varied route, until I can discourage them from using that particular avenue with a variety of non-toxic soaps and scents. I discovered that the ants had discovered the cat’s food when I noticed the cat meowing insistently, even though her bowl was full. Heading out the front door, I said to the complaining cat, “Don’t yowl at me, cat! You’ve got a bowl full of … ANTS!” And I jumped back as I saw the blackened bowl full of crawling insects, and the inch-wide trail leading from a crack in a nearby windowsill.

How could this possibly affect Rupe?

Well, of course, while I battled the ants (removing every trace of cat food from the bookshelf, and wiping the trail down with everything from Murphy’s Oil Soap to citronella to lemon juice to vinegar), I had to relocate the cat’s bowl. The trick was to find a place that only the cat could reach – away from potential ant zones, and away from Rupert, who has a thing for cat food.

For two days straight, I failed. I found a couple of out of the way places, but Rupe managed to raid them all, helping himself to at least six small servings of the forbidden food. How a dog can manage to give me the impression that he is ALWAYS under my feet and sneak off to eat cat food simultaneously is beyond me, but that’s a Border Collie for you: overachieving, as always.

Why should I care if my malingering mutt got a few extra calories? Because he is notoriously sensitive to certain foods, and this one set him off. Within a day of his secret snacks, he was an itchy, allergic mess. When he wasn’t slinking out of my office to chew his butt (a blooming hot spot on his hiney), he licked his paws, over and over. By day two the disaster had spread to his left ear; it’s almost always the one on the white side of his head that gets inflamed. He shook and shook his head as the ear got worse.

In the old days, I would have undoubtedly whisked Rupert’s raggedy butt down to the vet, and requested a nice big shot of steroids, please, to stop the itching NOW, as well as a nice new tube of antibiotic ointment for his inflamed ear. I admit, when you spend all day trying to distract an obsessed self-mutilator, it’s tempting.

But time heals. Two weeks later, the ants are gone, the cat food is back on the bookshelf, and Rupe’s skin is healing. It took a lot of patience, some soothing oatmeal shampoo, “Halo’s Natural Herbal Ear Wash” (wonderful stuff available from Halo, Purely for Pets, 813-854-2214), and more than a few applications of calendula gel. But I don’t have a big vet bill to pay, and Rupert’s not panting and drinking (and urinating) voraciously, the way he used to in the aftermath of the powerful shots. I’m sure we’re both better off.

-N.K.

Recent Innovations In The Dog Food Industry

By
Nancy Kerns
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It seems self-evident (to me, anyway) that dogs can live perfectly healthy, long lives and never ever eat a commercial dog food. Why this fact is so shocking to some dog owners is beyond me; the commercial dog food industry is only about 150 years old! (Dogs have been with us a few thousand years longer.)

But maybe it makes so much sense to me because I already went through this with my son. Sure, there are thousands of prepared baby foods on the market – dried flakes, moist purees, and liquid formulas –and you can raise a baby to toddlerhood on nothing but these foods. But at some point most of us realize that the baby would really be a lot better off eating real foods, just like we eat. It makes sense that it’s got to be healthier to break off a piece of your banana and mush it up and feed it to your baby than it is to feed him a jar of commercially prepared, cooked, preserved, and vitamin-fortified banana mush.

On the other hand, those neat little jars are as convenient as all get-out. Jars of bananas don’t turn brown in a week or so of sitting on the counter, and can be taken on car and airplane trips without being worse for wear. And, oddly enough, it’s often less expensive to buy a jar of banana baby food than it is to buy a banana.

Convenience and affordability have also been the driving forces behind the creation (and enormous success) of the dog food industry. In fact, the industry leaders have made buying and feeding canned and kibbled food so much of a societal norm, that it now strikes some people as weird and obsessed to feed a dog “regular” food. While it doesn’t seem at all strange to buy groceries and prepare fresh, wholesome meals for your children or yourself, to some people, it seems over the top to do so for a “mere dog.”

The best of both worlds
Today, everybody knows that eating fresh, whole foods is best for us. And most readers of WDJ realize that feeding fresh, whole foods is best for their dogs. But not all of us take the time and effort to buy and prepare fresh whole foods; many of us prepare many of our meals by opening cans, rehydrating dried foods, and reheating frozen foods. We know that these foods do not create or support health as well as a fresh diet, but the convenience factor takes over.

Similarly, convenience drives many of us to buy commercial foods for our dogs, too. We make up for the guilt of not feeding fresh foods by buying the very best dried and canned foods.

But finally, there are commercial dog food makers who are trying to bridge the gap between providing truly healthy foods and convenience. They are going about it in an interesting variety of ways, and each has its merits and limitations. We’ll look at the ones we like.

One entire segment of this market has concentrated on preparing nutritionally complete canine diets based on fresh, raw meat – diets that are frozen and delivered to dog owners in a variety of forms. In order to carefully examine each of the diverse frozen, raw meat-based products on the market, we’ll discuss them in a separate article in an upcoming issue.

Be Cautious While Tying Your Dog in the Backyard

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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I was trying to be a responsible dog owner. We lived in a rural area of Northern California, in a house with no fenced yard. My boyfriend’s Irish Setter had recently been shot and killed while chasing a neighbor’s goats. A hard lesson to learn, and one I wasn’t about to repeat. So when we were leaving the ranch for a day I insisted we tie up our recently acquired St. Bernard, Bear. We tied him to a tree, made sure he had access to plenty of water and shade and was nowhere near a fence that he could climb over. Confident that we had done the right thing, we drove off.

When we returned eight hours later, Bear was dead. His cable had gotten hooked over the stub of a tiny tree branch and he had hung himself. Another hard lesson learned. I swore I would never tie a dog and leave him again, and to this day, some 25 years later, I never have.

What is Your Purpose for Tethering Your Dog?

People tie up their dogs for a number of reasons, but we feel confident that each problem that has motivated the dog’s owner to tie has a better, safer solution. And Whole Dog Journal isn’t the only source that will tell you this.

For example, some dog owners have perfectly serviceable fenced yards but don’t want Digger excavating in the garden or defecating on the manicured lawn. The dog ends up on a chain.

There are better ways to protect the landscaping, either by fencing off a section of the yard for Digger’s use, or building a pen or kennel to keep him out of trouble when he must be confined outdoors. Better yet, take the time to teach him to use a designated spot as his toilet by regularly taking him on his leash to the right spot and rewarding him for using it.

You can also teach a dog to use a digging spot or a box constructed for that purpose rather than the garden. To do this, soften the soil in the designated spot, or build a low wooden frame large enough for him to move around in comfortably and fill it with dirt. Encourage him to use the box or spot by burying a couple of bones or toys and then helping him dig them up. Anytime he starts to dig in another spot, cheerfully redirect him to the right spot.

Other owners tie their dogs in an ill-advised attempt to protect their property from intruders. It’s true that one of the best ways to make a dog aggressive is to tether him. A dog on a chain is vulnerable to teasing and tormenting by humans and other animals. The teasing may not even be deliberate – simply watching others pass by day after day out of his reach can trigger Killer’s prey, protection, and territorial instincts. As his levels of frustration and stress escalate, so does his aggression. In a short time he can become a lethal weapon; wreaking havoc if his chain breaks or someone enters the territory bounded by the radius of the chain.

In 1986, William Berry tied his pit bull in his yard in Morgan Hill, California, to guard his illicit marijuana patch. Tragically, the neighbor’s toddler wandered next door and was killed by the dog. Berry was charged with second degree murder and later convicted of involuntary manslaughter. The dog was euthanized for doing the job that Berry had asked him to do.

But the primary reason most people tie Rover up is to keep him safe at home. They may not have a fenced yard, or Rover may have learned how to escape the fence. Unfortunately, the hazards of tying are great, and the behavioral side effects can be extreme. Dogs who are tied can hang themselves by jumping a fence or, like Bear, by catching their chains on some hidden protrusion. All too often, dogs who are tied live on the chain for 24 hours a day, often without adequate food, water or shelter – lonely, ignored, in abject misery.

Whatever the motivation, none of them are good enough to risk Fido’s life or the lives of others. There are better ways to keep him safe and out of trouble.

Some Better Options Than Tethering

No one likes to get a ticket from the local animal control officer, although that’s the least of the troubles that Rover can get into when he’s roaming free in the real world. Cars, bullets, dognapping, dogfights, and poisoning top the list of lethal hazards he can encounter. He can also do damage to others by chasing bicycles, cars and joggers, terrorizing schoolchildren, mail carriers and cats, tipping over garbage cans, and destroying personal property. Fortunately there are better ways than tying to achieve the safe confinement goal.

The best way to confine your dog is to keep him indoors when you aren’t home. Not only is he not spending hours figuring out how to Houdini his way out of the fence, he is also not barking at every squirrel, deer and pedestrian who passes by, and you don’t have to worry about him being poisoned by a disgruntled neighbor or released accidentally by the meter reader.

If Fido isn’t allowed in the house, shame on you! Dogs are pack animals. In their natural environment they are rarely alone. When we banish him to the backyard, Fido lives a lonely and deprived existence, and may escalate his escape efforts in search of companionship.

Some dog owners mistakenly shut Fido outside as a puppy, fully intending to allow him in “once he grows up and learns house manners.” He can’t learn house manners exiled to the back yard! He learns by being indoors, being rewarded for doing the right things and prevented from making mistakes through owner supervision and vigilance.

A dog who lives indoors tends to sleep a good part of the day while the owner is away. He is in the pack’s “cave,” and there are plenty of reminders of his pack members (you!) to reassure him that he has not been abandoned.

Containing Your Anxiety-Prone Dog

If Fido is destructive when left alone he may just need some diversions to keep him occupied, or you may have a separation anxiety challenge. Either way, you need to create a dog-safe room (or enclose him in an exercise pen), make sure he gets plenty of exercise before he is left alone, leave him with treat-loaded toys like cream-cheese-filled Kongs, Roll-A-Treat Balls, or Buster Cubes, and teach him interactive games like treat hide-and-seek, where you hide treats and toys around the house so he can spend hours searching for them.

A crate can be a useful tool for keeping Fido out of trouble, but shouldn’t be used in the daytime for more than about four hours at a time. If you are away for the average eight to 10 hour workday, this is not a good solution. It is not advised for dogs with separation anxiety, as they can panic and hurt themselves when confined to a crate.

If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, that is, if he is inordinately vocal or destructive in your absence, and is otherwise housetrained but consistently defecates and urinates in inappropriate places when you leave him alone, you are well advised to seek the services of a local trainer or behaviorist who uses positive training methods. Separation anxiety is a complex problem that requires careful, gentle behavior modification. While owners of dogs who suffer from this syndrome can easily and understandably get angry and frustrated with the damage caused by their agitated canine charges, punishment only makes the dogs’ anxieties worse.

Good Fences Make Good Dogs

If you do leave your dog outside even for short periods of time, a secure, solid fenced yard is the best choice. Solid is best because chain link or see-through wire of any kind allows the dog to be visually stimulated, triggering the same kinds of stress and frustration as tying, which increases barking and barrier aggression.

If you are starting with a puppy who has never learned the dubious joys of running free, you are fortunate. Your fence must be sturdy, and tall enough to discourage any adolescent escape attempts. It is vital that you block all possible escape routes before putting your pup in the yard the first time. If a dog is properly contained during his “formative months,” he is much less likely to try to escape in his later years. If he escapes even once, he will probably try to escape again.

Dogs who never have learned to jump a fence may be effectively contained by a four-foot barrier. But if your puppy learns to scale a three-foot fence, raising the fence to four feet after-the-fact may only teach him to jump or climb higher. When he succeeds at four feet, raising it to five feet will encourage greater athletic endeavors. An ounce of prevention is truly worth several extra feet of fence height! (Make sure that you don’t leave a doghouse, picnic table, wood pile or other climbable object next to the fence to give Rover a boost!)

If Rover has already learned that it’s fun to run, your job will be considerably more challenging. Dogs who jump or climb fences can be discouraged by adding an extension to the top of the fence that leans inward at a 45-degree angle. This makes it difficult for the jumper to accurately gauge the height and location of the top of the fence, and virtually impossible for the climber, since he would have to reach back over his head to grab and climb over the extension.

Planting bushes or putting some other obstacle at the take-off point can also stop a jumper by disrupting his striding. The bottom of your fence should be below ground level to prevent escape by digging. Diggers and fence chewers can often be thwarted by burying woven wire underground or covering the fence with wire. Wire is much less fun to dig or chew through than dirt or wood.

An electric fence may be an acceptable last resort. Although we are not advocates of using electric shock for dog training purposes and don’t recommend the use of electronic, non-visible fences (see, “Pros and Cons of Electric Underground Fences,” WDJ May 1999) if all else fails, you can install a single strand of battery-powered electric fence wire to teach Rover that fences bite. A visible electric wire is far more fair to the dog than a shock collar because the dog can see it; the shock doesn’t come out of nowhere. Most dogs won’t touch the wire more than once or twice before they learn to give the fence a wide berth. Be sure to get a system that uses alternating current and is designed for dogs; some livestock fences may be too strong for canines. You can tie strips of cloth on the wire so it’s easier for the dog (and you!) to see and avoid, and you will want to warn any children who have access to your yard. While the shock won’t cause permanent damage, it would be an unpleasant surprise for an unwary child.

When a Fence Isn’t an Option

Perhaps your yard isn’t fenced, you can’t afford to put one up (or your homeowner’s association prohibits it) and Fido reduces the furniture to splinters if left indoors. Isn’t tying your only option?

Not at all. Chain link kennels are sold at hardware, pet supply, and feed stores. They are relatively inexpensive, can be covered to stop climbers, placed on a cement slab to thwart diggers, and are portable; if you move, you can dismantle the kennel and take it with you.

A cable run, while a slight improvement on a stationary chain because it gives the dog more room to move around, still puts the dog at risk for hanging, aggression, and isolation. It may be an acceptable temporary alternative for a dog who escapes a fence, but only while you are implementing other solutions to keep him safely confined, and only if you are sure he can’t hang, be teased or tormented, and has access to food, water, shelter and human companionship.

Doggie day care is another possibility. Perhaps a dogless neighbor would like some daytime canine companionship, or another dog owner who is home during the day would welcome the diversion for her own dog. Commercial daycare centers are springing up all over the country – there may be one near you! An added benefit is that Fido comes home tired and happy, and is less demanding of your attentions at the end of your own tiring workday.

Tie Downs as Time-Outs

Is there ever a time when it is appropriate to tie a dog? Yes – for a brief period, as a training tool. We recommend the use of a short (three- to five-minute) time-out in your presence wherein Fido is restrained by a four- to five-foot vinyl-coated cable (or short leash, if he won’t chew through it) with a blanket, rug, or dog bed placed where he can relax comfortably on the tie-down. This is useful for teaching him that certain behaviors, usually out-of-control energy or puppy biting, result in a temporary removal from the fun, and can help to teach him house manners.

Don’t be intimidating when giving your exuberant pup a time-out, just gently hook his collar to the tie-down with a cheerful, “Too bad, time-out!” and give him a chew-bone or cream-cheese-stuffed Kong. Then, ignore him until he calms down and settles on his bed (you might need a book or magazine to keep yourself occupied the first few times). A minute or two of calm behavior earns him his freedom. If he gets too wound up again, he gets another time out.

Several repetitions of this routine are usually enough for any dog to realize he has to control himself. Of course, puppies are always confined to an exercise pen or on a leash unless they are under the direct supervision of a responsible human so they don’t learn to be destructive. (See “Preparing For and Training Young Puppies,” WDJ January 1999.)

Many years ago, Bear paid far too high a price for my ignorance about the dangers of tying. If sharing that experience prevents other dogs from suffering a similar fate, I will have finally begun to repay the debt that I owe him for his involuntary sacrifice.

Pat Miller, a dog trainer from Salinas, California, is a regular contributor to WDJ.

The Best Way to Get Skunk Off A Dog

By
Nancy Kerns
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[Updated August, 16, 2018]

When I was growing up, I knew a family that kept a dog just for finding and killing skunks. My friends lived on a big cattle ranch, and all their dogs had jobs. They had a couple of Australian Kelpies for working cattle, a number of tall, rangy hounds for hunting wild pigs, and then there was poor Frank, the skunk dog.

I don’t remember where my friends had obtained Frank, or even what breed of dog he was, but I recall that there had been numerous cases of rabies in the county where I lived as a child, and that skunks were the main carriers. My friends’ father routinely shot skunks when he came across one that was above ground; it was a cattle rancher’s rabies control method.

But if he found a skunk den, he’d bring Frank on the job. Frank lived to hunt and kill skunks. Tim could leave Frank at a skunk den somewhere on the ranch, and Frank would stay there until he had dug out (or out-waited) and killed every skunk around. Then he would trot home, satisfied, and utterly coated in skunky musk. “Good boy, Frank!,” Tim would tell the hard-working dog, as he fed him a hearty dinner and chained him up again, until it was time to go find some more skunks.

dog sprayed by skunk

As my friends and I played around their ranch, we’d frequently visit the large pen where the hunting hounds were kept. We weren’t allowed to let them out or go into their pen without Tim’s permission, but we’d scratch their bony chests and stroke their long ears through the wire. It was no good trying to pet the cattle dogs; the Kelpies were all business. And petting Frank was out of the question; he was a friendly dog, and would flatten his ears and crawl toward you on his belly as far as his chain would let him, wagging his tail as hard as he could. But Frank smelled WAY too foul to get within a hundred yards of him. We’d keep our distance and croon to him instead, “Poor Frank, you’re a good dog. Sorry you smell so bad, Frank.” All the while, Frank would grovel and whine, trying hard to understand why the three little girls wouldn’t ever come pet him.

Some Dogs Just LOVE Skunks

Of course, not many of us have dogs whose sole occupation in life is to attack and kill skunks. But some of do have dogs who regard this risky task as an enjoyable hobby, much to our dismay.

The biggest danger of skunk hunting – for dogs and the people who own them – is the danger of rabies infection; skunks are the second-most common carriers of the fatal disease (see “What You Should Know About Rabies,” below).

Statistically speaking, however, the most common hazard of approaching a skunk is getting hit with a potent chemical bomb. The furry creatures, members of the weasel family, are equipped with two internal glands, located at the base of their tails, that contains a thick, volatile, oily liquid that contains highly odorous compounds called thiols, a substance also found in decomposing flesh and fecal material.

Most skunks have utter confidence in the ability of this substance to drive away predators, so they don’t usually try to evade an approaching dog. Instead, they will hiss and growl, and stamp their feet, trying to warn a dog off. If the dog keeps its distance, barking and harassing the animal, the skunk will usually retreat at a dignified pace. But an incautious dog who runs for a skunk at top speed is going to get sprayed, and the closer he managed to get to the small animal, the worse he will be coated with the oily liquid.

Getting sprayed just once teaches some dogs to avoid the striped or spotted animals, but others don’t seem to mind it a bit, even if the musk gets in their eyes and nose, temporarily blinding them and making them sneeze and choke. You’d think they’d figure out a cause-and-effect relationship between investigating that cat-like creature, the horrible smell and stinging eyes, and then the days and days of baths, but few dogs learn to connect those dots.

But it certainly makes life miserable for the owners of the dogs who enjoy skunk hunting. It’s bad enough to smell skunk spray as you drive down a freeway at 60 miles an hour; it could be qualified as torture to live in the same house as a dog who’s coated with the stinky stuff.

So the dog gets a bath – and another one, and another one, and another one. Skunk spray is notoriously difficult to wash away – even with the well-known home remedy of washing the dog with tomato juice. As many dismayed owners of skunked dogs have discovered, tomato juice often turns a light-colored dog pink, but it doesn’t begin to get rid of the skunk smell. People have tried other substances – including Fels Naptha Laundry Soap, Massengil Douche, Scope Mouthwash, white vinegar, orange juice, and vanilla extract – but none of these remedies work very well.

The Hero of Skunk Spray Relief: Paul Krebaum

Enter chemist Paul Krebaum, of Lisle, Illinois. In 1993, while working on a research project involving thiols, he formulated a compound that could change thiols into other chemicals. In simplest terms, he discovered that by making oxygen molecules bond with thiols, the smelly substances were chemically altered into odor-free neutral substances. Best of all, Krebaum’s formula was incredibly simple, composed only of hydrogen peroxide, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), and liquid soap.

Krebaum wasn’t the first one to apply his formula to removing skunk odor, though it happened at his suggestion. A colleague at work came to the office one day, talking about a skunk encounter his cat had the night before. The man had bathed his cat with tomato juice, to no avail, and the cat was temporarily banned from his house. Apparently it is common knowledge to chemists that skunk spray is made of thiols; Krebaum immediately thought of his formula, and recommended it to his co-worker.

The man came to work the following day raving about the formula’s success; every trace of the odor was gone.

The Magic Skunk Deodorizing Formula

Has Krebaum gone on to fame and fortune as a result of his discovery? Sadly, no. The oxygen-producing formula can not be bottled; it would explode any bottle you tried to put it in. Instead, the chemist decided to make his formula a gift to humanity. Here is the recipe (it can be mixed in larger amounts, if needed, to wash a big dog):

1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon liquid soap (Dawn dishwashing detergent is often recommended, though any dish soap will work)

Mix in a bucket or bowl; it will be fizzy, a clue that you shouldn’t try to mix it or store it in a bottle or other closed container. Thoroughly wet your dog with the solution. Knead it well into his coat, to chemically alter every bit of the thiols on his hair. Be careful to keep formula out of the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth; you can use a sponge to carefully wipe it onto his face. Follow the bath with a thorough rinse.

This formula came along too late for poor Frank, the professional skunk dog, but it could keep your dog out of the doghouse, and in your house, where he belongs!

What You Should Know About Rabies

No other animal disease is as widely known or as widely feared as rabies. Part of the reason for this fearsome reputation is the disease’s fatality rate: by the time that the first symptoms appear in a patient, the only opportunity for saving his life is already long gone.

Rabies is caused by the Lyssavirus (the word lyss is Greek for “madness” or “rage”); and any mammal (including humans) is susceptible. The rabies virus, found in infected animals’ salivary glands, is transmitted only through saliva. Other bodily fluids, including blood, urine, and skunk spray, do not contain the virus. The method of transmission usually is a skin-penetrating bite, but any contact with an infected animal’s mucous membranes will suffice. A veterinarian should suspect rabies in a canine patient if the dog has had any known encounters with a wild animal in the past six months.

Fear reigns when such a potent killer is in the area. But rabies can be transmitted to a dog only if the virus is introduced from an infected animal’s saliva into an unvaccinated or improperly vaccinated dog’s bite wounds, open cuts in skin, or onto mucous membranes. Because the virus is easily killed with soap and water, the very first recommendation for any person or any dog who is bitten by any animal is to wash the wound very thoroughly with soap and water.

Most veterinarians – holistic and otherwise – recommend the use of rabies vaccine for animals living in areas where rabies is well established in the local wild animal population. This protects the dog, of course, but the reason that all states require rabies vaccinations (anually, in some states, and every three years in others) is to reduce the chances of an infected dog infecting people.

Titer tests of vaccinated dogs indicates that the protection can last much longer than three years, but whether administration of the rabies vaccine can be safely reduced is a matter of opinion. Public health officials would prefer to see all animals vaccinated annually. For obvious reasons (sales), so would vaccine makers. Many veterinarians share the vaccine industry’s confidence in the products (and perhaps, interest in profits), and have no qualms about recommending annual boosters.

A small but growing number of veterinarians, however, are questioning the need for annual (or even triennial) rabies boosters, even in areas where rabies is endemic. Sharpening their point is the fact that there has never been a case of a dog that was vaccinated against rabies two or more times contracting the disease, unless the animal was immunosuppressed.

Different Dog Breeds for Different Jobs

By
Nancy Kerns
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Generally, dogs are bred to do different jobs. Want to herd sheep? You get a Border Collie, not a Cocker Spaniel! Want to go sledding? You look for a Malamute, not a Borzoi! You get the idea.

However, not every representative of a specific breed of dog can fill the “job description” for that breed. So, even though you might wisely choose a German Shepherd when you go looking for a guard dog, it’s impossible to know for sure that the individual shepherd you choose is going to be a good guard dog.

This is exactly what happened with Bill and his dog, Freedom. Bill owned a printing business and wanted a dog who would guard the place at night, but be friendly to clients during the day. He had seen a classified ad in the local paper for German Shepherd puppies and decided that he would obtain one.

Without researching the breed and without doing any temperament tests, he simply bought the last remaining puppy. She was a little bit shy and wiry, not at all tough-looking, but she was available and the price was right. Freedom was seven months old when Bill bought her, which might explain some of her shyness. She had spent all of her short life with her mother, in the back yard of the breeder’s home. She had no frame of reference for a life beyond the boundaries of her yard.

Bill had Freedom for about a month when he called me. He had seen a flier for my teaching services and thought I might be able to help him attain his goals.

However, he hadn’t really read the fine print. I don’t offer my services for protection or attack dogs, nor do I prepare people for teaching their dogs to compete in obedience trials. I put an emphasis on gentle teaching, without any punishment methods. And I don’t allow choke chains, pinch collars, or shock collars in my school. Since this is rather different from the services of many trainers, I explained my techniques, terms, and conditions to Bill, who didn’t have a problem with any of my requirements.

On to the next step. I asked Bill to fill out a “Behavior Profile.” On this sheet, I ask owners to tell me about their dog’s history: how old the dog is, what kinds of training the dog has had thus far, what the dog’s health history has been, and most importantly, what kind of behavior the dog displays in different situations. I also ask them to describe how they respond to these behaviors. When he mailed the Profile back to me, he also included an extra sheet. This is what he had written:

1. Housebreak

2. Jumping on people

3. Chewing

4. Licking

5. Nipping

6. Come when called

7. Stay when told

8. Would like dog that can be free during business hours without endangering anyone or leaving the premises. Can bark and attack at night to deter vandals and burglars.

The next time we met, I had to explain to Bill that I had a few problems with helping him with his goals for his dog. First, of course, I wouldn’t help him train Freedom to attack. Even if I did prepare dogs for these careers, I would never recommend keeping an attack-trained dog so exposed to the general public. If a dog bites someone, even a burglar, you can be brought to court on a dog bite charge. Also, protection dogs must return to a training facility every 4-6 weeks for follow-up and evaluation to ensure their predictability, reliability, and safety.

However, Bill indicated he would be happy enough if the dog just barked to ward off intruders at night – something that would be easy enough to accomplish, and within my boundaries. But he added that Freedom had not barked once since he had her and she often cowered from strangers. OOPS! Not a good sign for a dog who is supposed to guard a business! I decided to run a temperament test and see what would happen. Normally these tests are done on very young puppies but they can sometimes be of help to determine what is happening with an older dog.

Canine Temperament Tests

I used some of the temperament tests from William Campbell’s Behavior Problems In Dogs, a classic dog teaching manual. (A few of these tests are appropriate only for puppies, so I just did the ones that could be conducted with adult dogs.)

First, I placed Freedom in the middle of the teaching center. Then I stepped away, knelt down and clapped my hands to attract her to me. Freedom did not come. She just sat there looking quite uncomfortable. According to Campbell’s criteria, this would indicate a dog who was introverted and shy. Next, I stood next to her making sure that she saw me. Then I walked away in a normal fashion to see if she would follow me. She did not. I tried again, this time I got her interested in a tidbit before I walked away. She did follow me but hesitantly and with her tail tucked. This, too, would indicate a dog who was introverted and submissive.

I moved on to a social dominance test. During this one, I crouched down and stroked her from the top of her head, along her neck and down her back. She proceeded to lie down, looking very uncomfortable. Then she relaxed slightly and began to lick at my hand. This, especially, indicates submissiveness – not a good trait for a self-confident guard dog!

I also did a startle test. I took my keys and tossed them loudly on the floor. Freedom startled, moved away and did not want anything to do with the keys. Again, this fearful reaction is not what you’d hope to see in a guard dog. A better candidate for the job might startle, but would quickly move to investigate the keys, perhaps barking as he went up to them and sniffed them. Using Campbell’s methodology, these reactions would indicate that the dog “will probably not socialize quickly and may be difficult to train without special techniques,” and “will tend to shy away under stress. These types usually do not interact well with small children.”

It was quite obvious to me that Freedom was not qualified to do the job she had been purchased to do. However, Bill was convinced that his dog should and could be a guard dog. After all, she was a German Shepherd, and that was why he got her!

Multi-pronged approach

I told Bill that we could try some things but I wouldn’t guarantee that Freedom would ever be the dog he envisioned. The first thing I wanted them to do was change her from the grocery store food he was feeding her to a fresh food diet. Improved nutrition would undoubtedly make Freedom feel stronger and healthier, more comfortable with “being in her skin.” He immediately informed me that would be impossible, because Freedom lived at the business and was never taken home.

I suggested that in the morning they could feed her a bowl of high quality, healthy dog food such as Wysong or Pet Guard. Then I asked him if he or any of his employees ever brought their lunch to work? He said “Of course!” I asked whether they could take turns sharing their lunches with Freedom. That way she would get some fresh foods and there would be no extra work for anyone. Bill said he would try that.

Next, we would have to deal with some non-invasive, learn-to-earn teaching. Bill had an employee who had taken a dog training class in the park. There, he had learned how to use a choke chain and how to hit, knee, and scold his dog. He was trying what he had learned on Freedom. This was not working and probably could never work with a dog like Freedom.

Instead, I showed him how to use the click/treat technique. First, we taught Freedom that the sound of the click means she gets a delicious treat. Fortunately, Freedom loved the hamburger treats I was using. She quickly caught on that at the sound of the click, she got the treat.

Next I wanted to show him how to teach Sit with the clicker. At this point he proudly told me that she already knew Sit. I asked him to demonstrate. Bill stood up, quietly said Sit! and nothing happened. Next he said Sit!! a bit louder and nothing happened. Then he shouted Sit!! and nothing happened. So then he pulled up on her collar and pushed down on her butt. At this point, he proudly looked at me as if he had proved that she knew Sit.

I then stood up and showed him how I would teach his dog the word without using the word. I simply took a hamburger treat, held it by Freedom’s nose, then moved the treat up and back. This raised her head and caused her butt to fall to the floor. At that instant I clicked and gave her the treat. I repeated this several times until she was sitting the instant my hand moved up.

Then I added the word. Before I moved my hand I said Sit. Then I moved my hand, clicked when she sat, and, as I gave her the treat, I said GOOD SIT! I repeated this several times until she was sitting as I was saying Sit. No fuss, no muss, no choking, no pushing. She now truly knew what Sit meant. Bill was pretty impressed with this display and thought he might like to continue the process. I then showed him how to teach Down and Walk using the same concepts. I sent him on his way with some handouts and let him know that if he had any problems or questions he could call me. We set up an appointment for the following week.

Sometimes the “Right” Dog for the Job Isn’t a Dog At All

Since I had not heard from Bill, I had assumed that his week had gone well and was expecting him to show me a dog who could sit, down and walk. Boy, was I wrong! Bill said that he had been too busy to do any teaching during that week and that Freedom had become a real problem because she was getting bored and wanted attention.

Apparently, the good experience she had at our last session was something that she wanted more of because she came trotting into the center and came right up to me and sat. Freedom wanted to learn and wanted to please but no one was taking the time to teach her about living with humans.

I tried to explain to Bill that unless someone found the time to work with Freedom, there would be no change in her behavior. Nothing changes in your relationship with a dog until the human changes first! Dogs take their cues from us. As long as the cues stay the same, the response to the cue also stays the same.

We reviewed what we had gone over the previous week and again I told him to call me if there were any problems. The following week, it was the same story only this time, Freedom seemed to want nothing to do with Bill. She just sat next to me as if I were her person, not Bill.

Bill said that having to teach a dog and run a business was just too much work. Couldn’t someone just train the dog for him and send him a perfect watch dog? I told him that it’s never a good idea to send a dog away for training. You never know what they will do to your dog. They will develop a leader relationship with the dog that may not necessarily transfer to you. Any problems that arise will always be made to look like it’s your fault because the trainer never has any problem working your dog. It will cost a lot of money, the dog could be ruined in the process and you will never have the control you want over your dog.

My holistic approach to dealing with dogs and behaviors is to consider the entire picture: the dog, people, environment, lifestyle, diet, health, desires, abilities, etc. In this case the situation was clearly not good for a dog – especially a dog like Freedom, who was expected to act as a deterrent and a guard dog, but who was actually a sweet dog with a yen for a human friend.

This time I told Bill that maybe he had made a mistake getting a dog for this purpose – and that he had definitely made a mistake getting this particular dog. It might be more productive and efficient, I told him, to install an alarm system and find a proper, loving home for Freedom.

Bill said that one of his employees had fallen in love with Freedom and that she seemed to like the woman. “Maybe,” he thought out loud, “I could give Freedom to this person and get a different dog to act as a guard dog.” Obviously, Bill was not listening! I told him another dog would still require work, time, and commitment. He had already proven to me, as well as to Freedom and hopefully to himself, that he had none of those things to offer a dog. I gave him the number of the alarm company I used for my business and suggested he call the company for an estimate.

A few weeks later, I got a call from Bill. He had taken my advice. The alarm system had been installed at his business and had already paid for itself. Someone had tried to break in and the alarm went off, scaring them away; nothing was damaged or stolen.

And, best of all (from my perspective), Freedom was in a wonderful home. She was happy and loved, living with a woman who adored her. She was feeding Freedom fresh foods and taking the dog everywhere with her. Freedom was responding to her love, food, and teaching, and was relaxed and comfortable with her new person and her new life.

Author Linda Goodman operates PORGIE Teaching Center in Riverside, CA. 

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