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Training Your Dog to Use His Nose With Positive Reinforcement

By
Nancy Kerns
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One of the cool things about dogs is the variety of tasks, tricks, and trades they can learn. Dogs perform lifesaving work in search and rescue and criminal justice venues, and they are employed to detect everything from prohibited fruits, vegetables and meats in airports to termites in homes. These abilities are directly related to their sense of smell. All dogs have a highly developed sense of smell, although some breeds – primarily scenthounds and sporting dogs – show greater ability than others.

A powerful nose is the first requirement for identifying or tracking down weapons, accelerants, explosives, drugs, food, missing persons, bodies hidden under water or beneath mounds of snow. The dog must also be highly intelligent, with the ability to think independently and solve complex scent problems. However, the dog needs more than these gifts of nature in order to be effective in this line of work. According to experts in scent-dog training, these talented dogs must be handled and trained with a simple but highly effective technique: positive reinforcement. No other training method is as effective in producing competent, reliable, and willing scent dogs.

Pure, positive power

Numerous articles in WDJ have described the effectiveness of positive training for teaching dogs to exhibit general “manners” and acceptable behavior. But while positive reinforcement techniques enjoy generally widespread acceptance among “pet dog” trainers, some old-school trainers believe that their use – especially when food is involved – don’t result in a dog that responds with precision and reliability. Treats and other positive reinforcements are best used for trick training, they say.

The professionals who train scent dogs for police work and other serious duties would take issue with that opinion, however.

If confronted with a person who feels that treats are only good for teaching tricks, “I would tell them to watch a well-trained mantrailing Bloodhound at work,” says trainer and Illinois law enforcement officer Jack Shuler, who has worked with mantrailing Bloodhounds for 22 years.

“Their drive, determination, dedication, and single-mindedness to find the source of the scent trail they are following is beyond compare and certainly cannot be called a ‘trick,’ and all this is achieved through training with positive reinforcement,” says Shuler. “Another good example would be a narcotics detection dog. He will work for hours hunting the smell of illicit drugs just to get to play with a tennis ball or towel for a couple of minutes.”

No place for force
As Shuler points out, most dogs can be intimidated and even physically compelled to comply with simple commands like Sit and Down. But following a scent trail or identifying items by their scent is not the kind of skill that any dog can be forced to exhibit. It’s true that scent dogs may naturally demonstrate a high degree of curiosity with their noses, sniffing at anything that interests them. But the ability to differentiate between and indicate the presence of specific scents is something that can be taught only with rewards for making correct decisions. And, as is customary with the positive reinforcement approach, when the dog makes incorrect decisions, he is either ignored or gently redirected.

“You can’t make a dog use his nose,” explains Sandy Seward, an instructor with the United States Department of Agriculture’s Beagle Brigade in Orlando, Florida. “They’ve got to want to do it. So, as a trainer, you must not only understand how a dog’s mind operates and how he perceives stimuli around him or your actions toward him, but you’ve also got to make it a game for him, make it worth his while.”

The rewards that make a dog’s efforts worthwhile range from tone of voice to tug-of-war games to well-timed treats. Words themselves are not especially meaningful to dogs, but a high-pitched tone of excitement or a soothing monotone can get results, no matter what the trainer actually says. The promise of a ball to be thrown or the offer of a treat can lure a dog, giving him the incentive to try things he might not otherwise be interested in doing on his own.

These small rewards may seem insignificant to us, but their power to motivate a food- and fun-oriented dog is Herculean. Take it from police officer Jeff Schettler, of Alameda, California. His partner on the force is a Bloodhound named Ronin. “Cookies are a good tool to get Ronin to try things he is afraid of,” Schettler says.

“The food drive is directly related to the prey drive, in my opinion. For example, Ronin is normally afraid of creeks and lakes. He will get his feet wet, but he won’t swim. When we are working, though, he will actually swim to get to his ‘victim.’ Around the house and when we aren’t working, he is afraid of loud, sharp noises, but when he’s on the trail he could care less. On one occasion we were shot at, and he ignored it completely. It’s kind of amazing.”

Creative, individual approach
Trying to figure out what reward will work with a particular dog is one of the challenges of training. It often requires creativity and the constant reminder that each dog is an individual. “With some dogs you can just say ‘Find it’ with an exciting uplift at the end of your request,” Seward says, “but with this last group of dogs I trained, I could not get one dog interested in coming up to and sniffing any of the boxes, no matter what I did. In desperation, I made a really high-pitched, squirrelly noise while I was tapping the box I wanted him to investigate, and that finally aroused his curiosity. Every dog is different.”

To keep her creative juices flowing, Seward keeps a list of tricks that have worked with all the dogs she has trained. As she trains, she takes extensive notes on each dog’s reactions. “I start with five or six dogs at a time, each presenting four or five separate scenarios that cause me to reach into my bag of tricks. As I get to each dog, I refer to my notes, which tell me, ‘This is the dog I’ve got to move fast with’; ‘This is the dog that needs lots of gestures’; or ‘This is the dog that shies away from gestures.’ ”

Besides being creative in finding rewards, trainers must also be creative in solving problems. While it’s easy to yell at a dog for doing something wrong, it’s not so easy to find a positive way to motivate him or to prevent failure. One of the tenets of positive reinforcement is that a dog is never allowed to fail.

“If the dog has a difficult time working through a training problem, the handler and victim work as a team to help the dog through it,” says South Pasadena, California, police officer Dennis Slavin. “I like to use one of the dog’s favorite ‘victims’ – usually my wife – to introduce complicated problems and difficult trails. The dog is more motivated than usual to find that favorite person and works harder at solving the problem.”

If positive reinforcement seems like a lot of effort, it certainly can be. The rewards for the trainer, however, are proportionately greater. “It seems to take a little bit longer for the dogs to evolve sometimes, but I think it works better because you have a more positive relationship with the animal. It’s more of a partner relationship rather than a master-type relationship,” Schettler says.

Not only does positive reinforcement make sense as far as getting the dog to respond to training, it’s also the best way to interact with often sensitive dogs. Hounds in particular are known for their gentle, somewhat shy temperaments. “It was stressed to me early by my mentors, Glenn Rimbey and Kat Albrecht, that bloodhounds don’t respond well to discipline, physical discipline, in particular,” Schettler says. “They can be unusually sensitive and have incredible memories. Once exposed to a negative, they never forget.”

But no matter what the breed, positive reinforcement works well with any aspect of training, primarily because it’s stress-free. We know that humans learn more quickly and eagerly in an accepting environment, and dogs are no different. The attention he receives when he performs in the desired manner encourages a dog to repeat that behavior.

No negatives!
When is it OK to punish a scent-dog-in-training? Never is the unanimous response. “If a dog is not doing something I want him to do, the way I may punish him, if you want to use that word, is just by ignoring him, withdrawing attention,” Seward says. “When a dog is stressed, say through physical or verbal correction, he can’t readily learn or absorb what it is you’re trying to convey.”

In fact, negative reinforcement can backfire when used with sensitive dogs. “Bloodhounds get their feelings hurt very easily,” concurs Shuler. “The techniques used in the training of ‘harder’ breeds of dogs, such as those used for police patrol work, would totally devastate a Bloodhound. Bloodhounds are very devoted to their people, and positive training techniques encourage them to do exactly what their human wants them to do.”

When a dog makes a mistake, the best response is to ignore the error and gently refocus him on the task at hand. Any number of things could have caused the mistake, from inexperience to eagerness to confusion. “It’s possible that somebody walked by with a bag with odor as the dog was sniffing a bag with no odor,” Seward says. “Because the odor happened to go into his nasal cavity at that particular time, his inexperience may cause him to make an alert. But if you do something aversive to the dog, you may be stifling his ability to blossom into the more precise and accurate detector dog that you expect down the line. You have to expect mistakes.”

When working with scent dogs, the handler also has to be sensitive to the fact that if a mistake is made, it’s just as likely to be the handler’s fault as the dog’s, making punishment for the dog even more inappropriate. Schettler learned this early in his work with Ronin. The two had worked six or seven cases, following some good trails, but had yet to find anyone. Then they were sent out on a missing person search.

“The lady had been missing for four days,” Schettler describes. “Her car was found in a cornfield and appeared to have been ransacked. It looked like a crime scene, and everybody feared the worst. I started Ronin, and within about an hour and a half he found a lady, hiding in some bushes and cattails. I didn’t see her at all. Ronin just ran into the bushes, and the next thing I knew he was standing in this lady’s lap. I was shocked, and I didn’t think it was the one we were looking for. I almost told Ronin to get back on the trail. But then I asked her who she was, and she wouldn’t tell me. I started looking at her, and the description matched. It turned out that she had a fear of society and didn’t want to come back.”

Once Schettler knew that Ronin had found the correct person, he hurried to praise the dog for his success. To keep the dogs motivated, handlers must be sure that their dogs are praised and positively reinforced for each of their successes, no matter what kind of chaos arises as a result of their find.

“A Bloodhound does not differentiate ‘bad guy’ trails from ‘good guy’ trails,” Slavin says. “As far as the hound is concerned, once she is scented on the person she is looking for, her goal is to find that person so she can be overwhelmed with praise and affection. For this reason, it’s important for us to follow a criminal trail – in which the prey is never happy to be found – with a short positive trail on a person who will join in praising the hound. This helps to maintain the hound’s enthusiasm and confidence.”

Treats are no trick
Unfortunately, there are still numerous trainers who learned how to train dogs primarily by punishing the dog’s undesired behavior, and who just don’t believe that treats and praise can be used to shape a dog’s behavior the way they’d like. “My first instinct in response to that attitude is to say ‘Try it, you might like it,’ ” says Seward, who describes herself as a “crossover” trainer. “I came from the old school, and I can appreciate that train of thought because I used to be there.

“Once I tried it, though, I found that I got much more out of the dog, and the training sessions could last longer, with the dog retaining much more of what I was trying to get him to do. I think a lot of the resistance is just lack of understanding of the mechanics of how the dog assimilates information.” Seward’s greatest successes, she says, are when she sees positive reinforcement techniques change a dog whose status is shaky. “It’s great when I’m able to take a dog that probably shouldn’t ever have gotten into the program, one we refer to as a borderline dog, and watch the positive reinforcement reshape the way this dog interprets my actions toward him.”

-By Kim Thornton

Kim Thornton is a freelance writer living in Lake Forest, CA.

Treating Your Dogs’ Injuries Holistically

By
Karen Director
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No matter how careful you are with your dog’s everyday health needs, it’s in his nature to be incautious and inquisitive. And that sometimes results in injury. Odds are, it’s just a matter of when.

However, your conviction to treat your dog with natural remedies is put to a real test when you are faced with an emergency. Whether your dog is severely injured in an accident or scraped and cut from a fight, your first reaction should be to remain calm, remember what you know, and think holistically.

Just as you plan and prepare your dog’s daily meals and training, advance planning and preparation for the unthinkable accident may help save your dog’s life during the critical time between the beginning of the emergency and access to veterinary care.

The time to plan, obviously, is before your dog is involved in an accident. Start gathering the contents for a first aid kit today (see “First Aid Kit for Dogs,” below). If your dog travels even short distances away from home then it’s a good idea to make your kit portable. Or prepare two kits – one for home and one for the car.

Have a First Aid Ready

The most important first step in dealing with an emergency is for everyone to calm down. It’s important for you because you’ll need to think clearly and it’s important for your dog because he needs to allow you to begin treatment. This is the time to use soothing reassurance, and to give an emergency flower essence (see the link for “Rescue Remedy: Nothing Short of Miraculous,” below) to everyone involved – don’t forget yourself!

Two homeopathic remedies are frequently mentioned by veterinary homeopaths as being useful in cases of shock, trauma, or extreme fear: Arnica montana 30C and Aconitum 30C. The famed veterinary homeopath, Dr. Richard Pitcairn, suggests giving a dog two pellets of Arnica 30C every 15 minutes for a total of three doses following a car accident, a situation where a dog stops breathing (assuming resuscitation efforts are underway), for convulsions, gunshot wounds, or serious bleeding. For a dog who is unconscious, he recommends following the doses of Arnica 30C with one pellet of Aconitum 30C every 10 minutes until consciousness is regained.

Holistic dog care expert Wendy Volhard and holistic veterinarian Kerry Brown, authors of the Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, suggest administering Arnica 30C for any bruising injuries, such as those suffered in a fall or car accident. This remedy is also excellent for use after surgery.

Examine the Dog Carefully

The next step is to try to identify the problem. Since dogs have a knack for getting into trouble when their human companions aren’t around, you may have to do some detective work. Internal injuries, even fur-hidden symptoms on the skin might not be evident. If his symptoms are severe, call your vet as you begin to treat your dog and, if possible, call a friend over to help. If you do need to make a quick trip to the vet’s office or clinic, your friend can drive while you tend to your dog on the way. To prevent any further harm or stress, try to keep the dog immobile, carrying him in a blanket sling if necessary, and prevent shock by keeping him warm.

Even dogs with the most docile personalities may bite when they’re confused or in pain. To keep from being bitten, you may have to use a soft muzzle. Or, you can firmly tie the dog’s mouth shut with an old sock, stocking, or cloth, leaving the ends long enough to tie behind the dog’s ears. Be careful not to restrict the dog’s breathing.

When Your Dog Has Cuts, Abrasions or Bite Wounds

Most dogs will incur at least a minor cut or bite at some time in their life. With all open wounds, the major concerns are stopping the bleeding and preventing infection. Badly torn or deep cuts must be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Also, bite wounds in the chest area are extremely dangerous as they can indicate a puncture through the chest wall, allowing blood to fill the chest cavity, or a collapsed lung.

After administering Rescue Remedy or Arnica, flush the wound with lots of water, especially if it’s an animal bite. Diluted hydrogen peroxide (about 1/2 teaspoon per cup of water) or plain soap and water may also be used to cleanse the wound. If you can, clip the dog’s hair from the edges of the wound so you can see whether or not you are cleaning it completely. Excessive bleeding can be controlled (while you travel to the vet’s office) with a pressure bandage. Place several layers of clean, dry gauze over the wound, fixing it in place with an elastic bandage, being careful not to use tourniquet-like pressure (this is especially critical on leg wounds). Put adhesive tape on the ends of the elastic bandage to keep it in place. Keep the bandage in place only until the bleeding stops and remove it if you notice any signs of swelling or coldness below the bandage.

Several herbs can also be used to stop bleeding. A sprinkling of the Chinese herbal powder called Yunnan Pia Yao under the bandage will help staunch the bleeding, as will homeopathic calendula in a spray or ointment. If the wound is small and the bleeding stops quickly, you can treat the wound yourself with echinacea, goldenseal, hypericum, or calendula, all of which display natural antibiotic action. Calendula may be used topically or internally to promote healing of torn or open wounds and to prevent infection. Its rapid healing properties are not good for puncture wounds, however, as they will heal too rapidly and seal in infection.

Although most wounds heal better in the open air, for larger wounds, soak a gauze pad in calendula spray or gel and tape it over the wound for one to two days. This will keep the wound clean until it can heal closed.

For puncture wounds, dilute hypericum tincture (five drops in 1/4 cup of water) and flush the wound or, if the wound is on an extremity, soak it in the hypericum solution. We particularly like Boericke & Tafel’s “Califlora” calendula gel and Hyland’s homeopathic “Calendula Spray,” both of which are readily available at most health food stores. For more detailed instructions for treating wounds with calendula and hypericum, see “Dog Injury Solutions,” WDJ January 1999.

Homeopathic Remedies for Dogs

Dr. Pitcairn uses a number of homeopathic remedies for common health problems. He suggests Ledum for insect bites or needle punctures, especially when the skin around the injury seems bluish or feels cold.

An oral administration of Silicea can help the dog’s body expel splinters and other foreign bodies. Don’t try to grab insect stingers with tweezers or your fingers as they will squeeze more poison into the wound, Pitcairn says. He advises using a dull knife, held perpendicular to the skin, to scrape across the sting. This will grab the stinger and pull it out.

Bleeding or swelling may not be immediately obvious with some wounds, especially with long-haired dogs, so be watchful for other symptoms of injury: swelling, sensitivity to touch, lethargy or irritability. An abscessed wound may respond to Hepar sulph if the animal has become chilly, irritable, and the abscess is very painful. Silicea will help heal an old abscess, especially when it is not very painful. For an acute problem, any potency of the remedy may be given.

Given internally, the homeopathic remedy Arnica montana is a good remedy for trauma, especially in cases of soft tissue injury such as bruising. The dog may not want you to touch the injury or, in extreme cases, to approach him. He may be restless and anxious. Arnica promotes circulation, which will help cleanse the injury and reduce the soreness.

Homeopathic Hypericum is characterized as the Arnica for nerve injuries. Paws that have been crushed, injuries from punctures, any injury to the nerves, especially paws, nails, coccyx, gums, respond to Hypericum. If the spine is very sensitive to the touch or the slightest motion of the legs or neck causes the dog to cry out, administer Hypericum.

Poisoning and Allergic Reactions in Dogs

Many dogs are compulsive taste-testers. They’ll lick or eat almost anything – dead or alive. They can also lick substances off their coats and feet. Symptoms of poisoning include severe vomiting, diarrhea, delirium, convulsions, coughing, and abdominal pain. Although the source of the poison might be visible or some might still be adhered to his fur, there’s a chance you won’t know what your dog ingested. In this case, it’s best not to induce vomiting. Some chemicals, especially acids, do more damage on their way back out of the esophagus. And you definitely shouldn’t induce vomiting if your dog is unconscious.

Call your vet or the Animal Poison Control Center for a treatment recommendation. If you know what substance the dog ate, and the experts tell you that you should induce vomiting, you can use a teaspoon of syrup of ipecac or a tablespoon of a hydrogen peroxide and water solution at a 1:1 ratio.

If your dog seems lethargic or is staggering, check for signs of an insect bite: swelling and/or reddened skin. Some dogs may develop hives in reaction to insect bites. Homeopathic Apis or Ledum can reduce the swelling, itching, pain, and redness of this kind of allergic reaction.

Preventing Injuries is Even Better

Of course, keeping your dog under close supervision is the key to preventing injuries. But some holistic veterinarians go one step further. They say that raising and keeping dogs in a healthy, non-toxic environment is the best way to protect them against injury. “Animals that are treated holistically, fed a raw food diet, are vaccinated very little, and are as healthy as possible, will recover more quickly from any accident, trauma, or poisoning,” says Christina Chambreau, a Maryland veterinarian who uses homeopathy extensively in her practice.

So, keep your eye on your dog, keep him healthy, and stay prepared.

Karen Director is a freelance writer from Tollhouse, CA, and is in the process of adopting a canine companion.

Thanks to Christina Chambreau, DVM, for her help with this article. Chambreau, a veterinary homeopath, practices near Baltimore, MD. 

The Healthy – Properly Functioning Canine Immune System

By
Roger Govier
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For a dog, the perfect life would have love, toys, sunshine, plenty of exercise, just the right amount of good food – and the one crucial thing which makes all of that possible: an immune system that works as nature designed it to work. For all “higher” organisms – from ticks to Texans – the immune system brings good health or takes it away. A healthy, properly functioning immune system operates like the world’s most omnipotent drug. When they’re at the top of their game, this system of body defenders can recognize and annihilate any invading viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites. But it’s an incredibly complex system, based in the bone marrow, and interacting intricately with both the blood circulatory and the lymphatic systems. Each part of the system plays a pivotal role in growing, developing, or activating the cells whose actions defend the body from invasion. This complexity, unfortunately, makes it prone to occasional lapses, and sometimes catastrophic failure. Even the healthiest dog is likely to suffer an immune malfunction at some point in his or her life – even if it manifests itself only as an allergy, a recurrent bacterial infection, or an entrenched bronchial virus. But some dogs, like some people, are born with fatal flaws in their immune systems, leaving them vulnerable to disease, and perhaps doomed to an premature death.

For much of the current century, medical science has focused on “fighting disease,” looking for drugs and other medical methods that could be used to destroy the bacteria, viruses, and tumors that threaten lives. But in the last 20 years or so, scientists have come to realize that treatments that help optimize the immune response might be just as effective, if not more effective, at preserving health. Of course, this confirms everything that holistic veterinary practitioners have been saying for decades: “If the dog is truly healthy, he can withstand any disease challenge.” Purpose of the system The immune system is often described in military terms, because it acts in such a similar fashion. The purpose of the immune system is to detect threats to the body and eliminate them, just as armies are supposed to identify threats to a government and put down those threats quickly. Infections – infiltrations, if you will – of any foreign agents elicit a rapidly escalating defensive response. When the system works as it should, the appearance of “invaders” alerts cellular “scouts;” either destroying them immediately, or marking them for destruction by other types of cells. If the initial skirmish is indecisive, the “cold-war” immune system quickly retools, and cellular reinforcements arrive in millions, precisely formulated to attack that particular invader, and programmed to recognize it should it ever return. At least, that’s how it works when the immune “army” is well-staffed, well-supplied, and well-organized. The immune system may actually respond in one of four ways to alien intrusions: • Appropriately: identifying and eliminating the problem before it threatens or inhibits life, as described above • Inappropriately: as when the immune system treats its own cells as invaders, causing what are called auto-immune disorders • Inadequately: as in cancers or immune deficiency disorders • Hyperactively: as with allergies Because there are a number of ways that the immune system can fail, there are a number of approaches that can be taken to rectify or balance the failure. Before you can help correct your dog’s off-kilter immune system, however, you have to know how it’s supposed to work. For example, you wouldn’t want to give a dog treatments that boost immune response if he’s displaying symptoms that indicate his immune system is hyperactive or attacking his own healthy tissues. In this article, we’ll describe the way the immune system is supposed to work. In the next issue, we’ll describe a number of common immune system failures – resulting from inappropriate, inadequate, and hyperactive immune activity – and explain how and where the system is breaking down in each scenario. The final part of this series will describe the most effective approaches, holistic and otherwise, to getting the immune system to act appropriately and effectively. Outside looking in In the course of a lifetime, a typical dog will confront a never-ending onslaught of disease-causing agents. As we all know, dogs seem to enjoy exposing themselves to foul things, deriving intense pleasure from activities which elicit our own most intense displeasure: rolling on carcasses, lapping up sewage, or snacking on last month’s garbage. Any pleasant walk out in the world, in short, can cause him to come home with unwanted (if invisible) visitors, including bacteria, parasites, viruses, fungi, and numerous allergens. Some invaders are more virulent or more cleverly insidious than others, but the power of an antagonist’s ability to make your dog sick depends on a number of factors. One critical factor is the amount of a given disease agent a dog is exposed to. In general, dogs who receive a higher dose of disease agent will display higher infection rates and more severe illness. The entry point of exposure is another important factor. Some viruses, for instance, won’t harm a dog at all if they are introduced to a wound (or even injected into the dog), but will cause extreme illness if breathed into the mucous membranes and lungs. Other disease agent factors include the number of other animals in a given environment (crowding), and local stress levels (including ambient temperature and humidity). Factors unique to your dog – “host factors” – also influence the odds that he will or won’t succumb to an invader’s influence. Most significant is the dog’s inherited predisposition to certain diseases. The quality of the dog’s diet, and nutritional deficiencies or imbalances can affect his ability to defend himself from disease agents. His general health and the concurrent presence of undiagnosed (and thus, untreated) illness will also affect his resistance to disease. Recognizing danger One significant task of the immune system is to identify cells, separating them into two categories: those normally present in the body, or those not normally present in the body – that is, cells that are “self” or “non-self.” Any “non-self” agent that elicits an immune response is referred to generally as an immunogen. The more foreign a cell is (that is, the more it is unlike “self”), the more likely the immune system will respond. Immunity begins in the bone marrow, where stem cells are produced. Stem cells are embryonic cells to which a series of genetic codes are attached. These stem cells are produced in enormous numbers each day, and, according to a coded genetic mechanism that scientists have yet to explain, differentiate into two distinct types of white blood cell (as well as others not directly of interest here) which populate the immune system. Stem cells mature in the thymus and spleen, and rely upon both the lymphatic system and the blood circulatory system to be transported where they need to go in the body. The first type of white blood cells, called myeloid cells, develop into the free-ranging “scout” cells which initiate a dog’s non-specific immune response. These interceptor cells, also called phagocytes, come in three known types: neutrophils (by far the most common) reside in the bone marrow and flow into the bloodstream when needed to fend off run-of-the-mill infections; eosinophils, which, generally, respond to parasitic infestations; and basophils, which trigger the release of histamines involved in allergic reactions. Related to phagocytes are the macrophages, literally, “great eater,” which often arrive first at the site of infection. First lines of defense We like to think of our dogs as entertaining, enjoyable companions. But to viruses, bacteria, and other invaders, our dogs are simply potential cites for incubation and reproduction. These foreign agents use every imaginable method of entry to infect our dogs: some are breathed into the body, while others are swallowed in food or water or absorbed through the skin. Fortunately, healthy dogs have formidable first lines of defense ready and waiting to destroy any intruders. Not many people are aware that the dog’s skin is a disease-preventing marvel, effectively shielding the body from legions of invaders. The mucous membranes and respiratory tract also contain agents that render foreign material harmless. In addition, the respiratory tract helps the body rid itself of foreign material; nasal hairs and mucous trap irritants and sneezes and coughs expel the material. Furthermore, the dog’s nasal mucous and discharge, tears, and saliva all contain cells that can neutralize invading cells. The gastrointestinal tract is similarly laden, and indeed is responsible for killing most microorganisms that are ingested. Any immunogens that are able to get by the body’s first lines of defense are met by the free-ranging phagocytes, also known somewhat generically as “scavenger cells.” Phagocytes are programmed to independently search for and destroy any invading micro-organism, no matter its identity. This response provides for what is known as non-specific immunity. Another general defense mechanism is the inflammatory response. When an injury allows bacteria and other foreign material to enter the body, the immune cells at the site of the injury cause the small blood vessels at the site to dilate, increasing the blood flow and “flooding” the area with more cellular defenders. This localized increase in blood and lymphatic circulation is responsible for the redness, heat, and swelling associated with wounds. Also swarming to the scene are the macrophages, who show up to consume dead bacteria and damaged tissues, “cleaning up” the crime scene, as it were. Macrophages also “call in some backup,” by attracting lymphocytes (another type of defender) to the site of infection, thus playing a crucial early role in immune response. Memories … of the way it was As it fights with a specific type of invader, the body sends in the second major kind of stem cells – called lymphoid cells or lymphocytes. Lymphoid cells come in two types: T cells, the so-called “smart” cells that play a number of roles, including actually orchestrating the immune response (more about that in a moment), and B cells, the memory specialists. These memory cells enable the lymphocytes to leap more quickly into action the next time they encounter the same enemy, and fight the invader with an attack designed to precisely and efficiently defeat it again. How do B cells recognize the bad guys? Their outer surfaces are covered with proteins, which defend the body by locking onto specific receptors on bacteria, viruses, and foreign bodies. These B cells are also known as antibodies. Each antibody is designed and developed to battle a specific invader. Each invader that has caused the formation of a specific antibody becomes known as antigen (as opposed to immunogen, the term for a generic invader). Among the millions of B cells circulating at any given time, only a few might “recognize” the antigens that they are supposed to, if only imperfectly. And if that “recognition” isn’t perfect – and this is the real life-saving magic of immunity – the B cells quickly mutate, ensuring precise identification of the invader by the next generation, then migrate into the bloodstream with millions of exact copies of that “marker” cell. The cellular “memory” provided by antibodies is the basis of long-term immunity against specific diseases, referred to as specific immunity or acquired immunity. In a healthy dog, however, the immune response to a serious challenge is sequential; the power of the response is calibrated by the virulence (or pathogenicity) of the antigen. Only gradually does the immune response reach the maximum effectiveness provided by specific immunity. About antibodies Humoral immunity is the result of the development and continuing presence of circulating antibodies, which occur in five known subgroups. Any imbalance among the five can cause inadequate or improper immune responses, or negate the intended protection offered by certain vaccines. The most common is defined as immunoglobulin G (IgG), which circulates in the blood and tissues, and tends to become activated only by entrenched infections of bacteria, fungi, and viruses. While much about IgG is still unknown, scientists know that it plays a crucial role in canine health. Immunoglobulin M (IgM) is the first antibody produced following exposure to an antigen. Its presence triggers the increased production of IgG. A third type, IgA, is a common source of immune malfunction. This antibody type is present in a dog’s various mucous membranes, such as the gastrointestinal and urogenital tracts, as well as the lungs. Because these surfaces are often the initial point of contact with antigens, IgA deficiencies allow deeper and more dangerous penetration of infectious agents. IgA is so important, in fact, that it has been given a separate designation, the secretory immune system. A fourth antibody type, IgE, is concentrated in the lungs, skin, and mucous membranes. It is both rare and extremely important for canine health. IgE reacts to the presence of parasites, and plays a role in the numerous allergies common among dogs. Dogs with allergic symptoms often show elevated levels of IgE in their blood. Scientists are still not certain about the function of the last known type of immunoglobulin, IgD. They know that it increases in quantity during allergic reactions to milk, insulin, penicillin, and various toxins, but they don’t know why. Cellular immunity While humoral immunity is all about protection by antibodies, cellular immunity is all about protection by T lymphocytes. There are four main types of T lymphocytes, commonly and more simply referred to as T cells. Each type is characterized, in general, by the ability to recognize and respond only to specific antigens. Cytotoxic T cells are programmed to find and destroy foreign cells which have been “pre-identified” by the scouts. They “recognize” only specific antigens, which could be viral, cancerous, or otherwise. Memory T cells will continue to circulate in a dog’s body even after an infectious episode has ended, and will respond for months or years when a particular antigen reappears. Helper T cells, among other functions, instruct immature B cells to produce antibodies against specific antigens. Suppressor T cells instruct B cells to stop an immune response. When suppressor T cells cease to function, as happens in a number of disorders, the immune system remains overactive. Only cytotoxic T cells directly kill antigens; the others, often referred as a group as regulatory T cells, direct the activities of other cells. Volumes more to know From a layman’s perspective, these are the best-known players in immune response, yet they are like chapter headings, a vast simplification of the biochemical processes involved. We’ve left a number of minor players out of this discussion. And the numerous “cells” referred to above, in fact, are molecules, cells upon cells. Antibodies are only a part of a vast immune messaging network constituted by many sub-groups and sub-sub-groups. In addition, the immune system communicates with the nervous system and with the intercellular hormonal network; in effect, the three eavesdrop on each other, and impact each other’s processes. Much can go wrong, and much is not yet understood. We’ve also simplified the discussion of disease agents, which are also intricately programmed to survive. Viruses mutate, in sometimes diabolical ways, each requiring that the immune system alter its response. Bacteria arrive in many different strains; the immune system might recognize one, but not another. Infections can even “hide” in what are called immunologically privileged sites, where the normal immune protections don’t apply . . . However, the terms we’ve defined above should help you understand the next two installations in our series on the immune system. In future issues, we will discuss some of these canine immune disorders – hypersensitivity, auto-immunity, and immune deficiency. We’ll also examine the numerous ways – both conventional and holistic – that have been devised to optimize the immune system. -By Roger Govier Roger Govier is a freelance writer from San Francisco. A dedicated owner of two shelter “mutts,” Govier has prepared articles on many of WDJ’s toughest topics, from cancer to vaccinations.

Massaging Your Dog Promotes Circulation and Well Being

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Massage is a broad discipline that includes Swedish, Western, and sports massage techniques to name only a few. This series on canine massage will discuss several methodologies, but will begin by describing one of the basic Swedish massage movements and its physiological effects and benefits. Swedish massage has its origins in a system devised by Pehr Henrik Ling, a Swedish physiologist and gymnastics instructor who is considered the father of Swedish massage and also the father of physical therapy. Johann Mezger, a Dutch physician, promoted Swedish massage and is given credit for the French names of many of the movements. The five basic Swedish massage strokes are effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement, and vibration.

Effleurage (ef-flur-ahzh), the first massage movement we will consider, is probably the most frequently used of the Swedish massage strokes. It is a very basic and useful massage tool whether the intent is to relax, reduce stress, or rehabilitate. The name comes from the French word, effleurer, which means to “flow or glide” or “skim the surface.”

Physiological effects: Nourishing the tissues
Effluerage strokes have very positive effects on the body. A basic understanding of the working of the circulatory and lymph systems clarifies why effleurage is such a powerful tool.

Blood is pumped out of the heart in arteries, which, in general carry freshly oxygenated blood to the body tissues. The force of the pumping creates pressure in the arteries that helps move the blood through the vessels. The arteries branch into smaller and smaller vessels and eventually are reduced to tiny capillaries each with a diameter so small that the red blood cells must pass through in single file! It is from these capillaries that oxygen and nutrients can efficiently leave the blood stream to supply muscle, nerve, and other body cells.

After oxygen and nutrients have left the capillary network to nourish tissues, the tiny vessels pick up carbon dioxide and waste products such as lactic acid. The capillaries empty into venules, the smallest vessels in the system of veins that carry the blood back to the heart. The blood pressure in the veins is much reduced after passing through the capillary network. And the less muscular veins must rely on the contraction of surrounding skeletal muscles to literally squeeze the veins and push the blood along.

Veins have a series of valves that open as blood is forced through by the contracting skeletal muscles. Then the valves close to keep the blood from moving back in the wrong direction.

Interspersed in the capillary beds are the beginnings of tiny lymph vessels that play a major role in picking up excess fluid from between cells. These small vessels empty into larger and larger vessels that eventually dump their contents into veins, thus returning the materials to the circulatory system. Lymph vessels are similar to veins and have thin walls and a system of valves.

Go with the flow
Effleurage is always performed in the direction of the venous blood flow (toward the heart) to aid the movement of blood and lymph in the correct direction and to prevent damaging delicate vessel valves.

Varicose veins are simply veins in which valves have been damaged and cannot close tightly. Because the blood is not efficiently moved toward the heart, it pools, stretching the veins. Many veins lie very close to the surface and massage must be performed with this in mind. Effleurage against the direction of venous blood flow can potentially damage valves and create a similar problem.

This explains why effleurage of the limbs is performed from the knee toward the hip and from the toes toward the knee. This may feel unusual as hands move opposite to the direction that the dog’s hair grows, but it is important to maintain healthy vessels in the circulatory and lymph systems and to encourage the removal of wastes, toxins, and excess fluid from the region.

It is easy to see that even light to moderate pressure with effleurage warms the underlying tissues and can cause the arteries to dilate, increasing blood flow and bringing more oxygen and nutrients to the area. At the same time, moving in the direction of venous blood flow, the massage removes wastes and toxins and refreshes the tissues. Effleurage also helps dissipate swelling by promoting the movement of extracellular or interstitial fluid out of the region. In addition, effleurage has a soothing effect on the nervous system that facilitates relaxation and fosters a sense of well-being in the dog. So this Swedish massage stroke that appears so gentle, can in fact have very important health benefits.

An effleurage session
Before beginning any massage, it is important to consider why you will be massaging the dog. In other words, you need to establish your intent for the session. It may be to relax your canine friend, decrease stress, reduce swelling in some area, increase the range of motion in a specific joint or joints, or some other purpose. In any case, your overall intent should be to interact for the good of the animal. It is important to set the goal of the massage in your mind and to communicate your intent to the animal verbally or with positive images in your mind. After introducing yourself and establishing your intent, it is time to begin.

Effluerage resembles petting your dog and is sometimes referred to as petting with a purpose. Use an open hand or some part of it to glide over the surface of the coat, always moving toward the heart or in the direction of the venous blood flow (the blood returning to the heart).

The size of the dog or part of the dog you wish to address will determine the amount of contact you make with your hand. The entire palmar surface of the hand can be molded to fit the musculature of a large dog or even larger areas of a small dog. Smaller areas or smaller dogs may require that you effleurage with only one or a few fingers. Pressure should be light over thinly-muscled, bony areas such as the face, head, and legs, and moderate over large fleshy muscles.

The move can be performed with one or both hands. One-handed effleurage truly resembles a petting motion. Slowly glide one hand over the surface to be effleuraged. Your goal is generally to warm the tissues and increase circulation so movements should be slow and deliberate. Always keep the second hand in contact with the dog even if it is not actively being used in the massage stroke. This maintains a constant communication with the dog and keeps you aware of his body. For example, you immediately know if his muscles are relaxing or tensing.

Two-handed effleurage is performed by alternately stroking with one hand and then the other. As one hand is being lifted off of the dog, the second hand should be starting its stroke. Always have one hand in contact with the dog. The movements should be smooth and in a straight line. Obviously, two-handed effleurage is used most efficiently over larger areas.

Legged up
Special attention must be paid to the legs. Veins are very close to the surface and care must be taken to work with them and not against them. As noted above, you should always work in the direction of the venous blood flow. This means that the direction of the effleurage stroke is up the leg or from the toes toward the hip. One may effleurage the larger thigh muscles from knee to hip and the less fleshy part of the leg from toes to knee. When massaging from toe to knee, you may wish to lightly place one hand on either side of the leg and move up. The leg of a small dog can be encircled with fingers and thumb and effleuraged. Remember that the vessels are very near the surface, so use light pressure.

This is an excellent stroke to aid in reducing swelling in an elbow, knee, or hock, but remember to consult your veterinarian first for approval to massage a dog with a swollen joint. Never massage directly over a swollen region. Work below the swollen joint and above it with gentle effleurage. This will mechanically aid the veins and lymph vessels in the removal of excess waste materials and fluid from between the cells (interstitial fluid).

Effleurage is a powerful massage tool for puppies to seniors and all ages in between. Use it often to relax, promote a healthy coat and body, and to intensify the bond between you and your canine friend.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Mastering Canine Massage Skills”
Click here to view “Canine Massage Therapy”

-By C. Sue Furman

Author Sue Furman is an Associate Professor in the Department of Anatomy and Neurobiology at Colorado State University in Ft. Collins, CO. She is also active as a free-lance writer and teaches equine and canine massage classes. This article is adapted from material in her new book, Canine Massage, that will be available in spring 2000.

Too Mean To Keep?

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

I have a serious problem with my six-year-old neutered male Vizsla. He was a high strung, but good tempered dog for the first three years of his life. Something seemed to snap after that. He is loving and affectionate most of the time, but he gets aggressive when family members leave the kitchen (he and our other dog are limited to the kitchen and family room). He barks, snaps at them, and snags clothes with his teeth. He has never chomped down and bitten anyone, but he has scratched people with a tooth.

The worst part is that it has become unsafe to walk him. If we pass people, he exhibits the same behavior, barking and lunging at them. If someone talks to me, he barks even more and appears to be quite vicious. He has snagged the clothing of two joggers with his teeth, so I have decided not to walk him any more. We do have a large yard for him to run in. I am thinking of putting him down.

We have been to three sets of obedience classes (when he was between six months and one year) and he went to a trainer who worked with him with an electric collar. The electric collar works for controlling his behavior around dinner time but it does not seem to work to stem his aggression. It seems to provoke him even more. Is there anything we can do or have we reached the point where we have a dog we can’t control and we must put him down for the safety of others?

-Name withheld by request

We gave these questions to Pat Miller, WDJ’s regular gentle training expert. Miller, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, offers private and group dog training classes. For contact information, click here.

Aggression is always something to be taken seriously. Since you are considering euthanasia you obviously recognize this. Many owners of dogs with aggression problems are in denial until a tragedy occurs and someone – all too often a child or senior citizen – gets mauled. When you intervene pre-tragedy there is almost always something that can be done. Good for you for recognizing the problem before someone has been seriously harmed. The question is whether you have the time, ability, resources and commitment to do something about it.

When I work with a client whose dog has an aggression problem, the first thing I require is a complete veterinary workup to make sure there are no physical problems causing or contributing to the behavior. This is especially indicated when there has been a noticeable behavior change in an adult dog, such as you describe.

Pain can make us cranky, and it can do the same to our dogs. Blood panels and chiropractic exams are certainly in order here, hopefully by a veterinarian who has had some training or at least interest in dog behavior (many don’t) and who is familiar with – better yet, a practitioner of – complementary veterinary medical practices.

I also sit down and take a complete behavior history to determine if there have been any changes in the dog’s environment that could contribute to the problem. In your case, I can’t do that, but I am concerned about some of the information you did provide, particularly the use of an electric shock collar by one of your trainers.

Violence begets violence
I do not use electric shock collars, nor do I ever advocate their use. Although some trainers claim that they can be an effective training tool, the potential for negative side effects and damage to the relationship between dog and owner is far too great. In your case it sounds like it has actually exacerbated the aggressive behavior – a not uncommon side effect of the shock collar. You must stop using it immediately.

Punishment-based training techniques such as jerks on a collar, hitting, loud verbal reprimands, scruff shakes and alpha rolls can also contribute to an increase in aggression. If you are doing any of these I would also suggest stopping them immediately.

Aggression is caused by stress. One or more things in your dog’s environment have stressed him to the point of serious aggression, even against family members. The longer a behavior has been going on, and the more intense and successful the behavior, the more difficult it is to resolve. Your dog has been demonstrating aggressive behavior for three years, which makes the prognosis less bright than if he just started last week – but not hopeless.

Can aggression by modified?
There are two divergent schools of thought about modifying aggression. The punishment school, to which I do not subscribe, will tell you to punish him (jerk on a choke chain) when he shows aggression. The problem with this approach is twofold.

The first problem is that many dogs will fight back when you punish. This means that you must punish harder, until he gives in. If he doesn’t, according to punishment trainers, you might end up having to hang him until he loses consciousness. This is abusive, inhumane, and absolutely unacceptable, even if owners are willing to subject their dogs to such torture. Fortunately, most aren’t.

The second problem is that punishment doesn’t really change the way he thinks about whatever is stressing him. If anything, it makes the experience more stressful. It can sometimes succeed in suppressing the behavior, but the stress is still there, and the aggression may resurface under the right (wrong) set of circumstances.

The positive approach to resolving aggression focuses on changing the way the dog thinks about stressful stimuli through the use of counterconditioning and desensitization. Once he no longer thinks of it as stressful, he will not feel compelled to bite.

We do this by getting the dog to associate the presence of the stressors with something positive (such as really yummy food treats) to replace the negative association he now has. It is a long, slow process, and generally requires the assistance of a professional behaviorist. If you are serious about wanting to change your dog’s behavior, I would recommend that you find a positive trainer in your area who is committed to training without the use of punishment or aversives.

Options for action
There is no simple, quick solution to your dog’s problem. You and your family will need to honestly evaluate your resources and environment, and make a difficult choice from one of the following four options:

1. Keep the dog and manage his environment and behavior so he never has the opportunity to bite anyone. This means evaluating every situation that he might encounter that could trigger aggression, and figuring out a way to protect him from being placed in those situations. If that means being relegated to solitary confinement to the back yard, I would question the quality of life he would have. This is not likely to be an acceptable solution.

2. Find the dog a new home with owners who are aware of his problem and can be responsible about ensuring that he doesn’t bite anyone. Again, this is not a very likely scenario. The loving “home in the country” that accepts all of our unwanted animals simply doesn’t exist. There are millions of unwanted dogs in this country who do not have aggression problems and cannot find homes.

You have had your dog for six years, you love him, and you are seriously thinking of giving him up. Why would someone who has no emotional connection to him want to take on your large, aggressive dog? In the unlikely event that they did, you would need to be sure they were fully aware of the risks and liabilities, and their heavy responsibilities as the owner of a dangerous dog. You would also need to be sure they weren’t planning to use him for some nefarious purpose, such as junk yard guard dog or bait for fighting dogs.

3. Work with a positive trainer to modify his behavior. This is your dog’s best hope. While you may never have a dog that is totally trustworthy in all circumstances, it is quite possible that, with help, you can modify his behavior to the point that you and the rest of the family are safe and comfortable with him.

If you are considering euthanasia, it might at least be worthwhile to have a positive trainer in your area evaluate him in person and give you a prognosis. Then, if the prognosis is poor or the cost and risks too high, you will at least know you have made every reasonable effort.

4. Euthanasia. In my opinion, this is not an unreasonable choice. As much as we love our dogs, it is not OK to put our family at risk (especially if we have children) or threaten the safety of the community.

A dog who is constantly stressed to the point that he tries to bite is usually not a happy or healthy dog. If you are unable take the steps necessary to make him happy and keep the humans around him safe, then, in my opinion, a gentle death is preferable to a life of stress and isolation.

Apple Cider Vinegar: A Holistic Remedy for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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3

[Updated October 5, 2017]

You’ve heard of the benefits humans reap from apple cider vinegar, but is it safe for dogs? Apple cider vinegar, or ACV, is great for dogs’ health. Dogs benefit from using apple cider vinegar in nearly every way people do, both topically and by drinking it.

Apple cider vinegar begins life as apple juice or sweet cider. Then, fermentation of the yeast and natural sugars occurs, creating alcoholic or “hard” cider, to which a vinegar “mother” is added. The mother forms a gooey, slimy mass on the surface of hard cider, inoculating it with aerobic bacteria that convert alcohol to acetic acid, creating a new generation.

If you have ever made sourdough bread from a sourdough “starter,” you understand the concept. Cider vinegar mothers, some of which are centuries old, can be purchased from brewing supply companies or simply saved from a raw, unpasteurized, unfiltered cider vinegar that contains it, such as Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar.

Vinegar sold in the United States is at least 4 percent acetic acid, and most is between 5 and 7 percent acetic acid, the strength recommended for pickle making. Water is added to freshly brewed or distilled cider vinegar to dilute it to that strength. Brew supply companies sell inexpensive test kits for measuring the acetic acid in homemade or orchard-brewed cider vinegar.

Raw, unfiltered, unpasteurized cider vinegar contains all of the nutrients that survive the processes of fermentation and oxygenation, and its contents look suspicious, with bits of murky sludge drifting around or settled at the bottom. Don’t wrinkle your nose; this sediment is the signature of the most highly prized raw vinegars on the market.

Those who are old enough remember when Dr. D.C. Jarvis of Vermont made apple cider vinegar a household word with his 1958 best seller, Folk Medicine. According to Jarvis, native Vermonters used cider vinegar to cure migraine headaches, arthritis, diabetes, obesity, indigestion, and a host of other ailments.

ACV enthusiasts say that the apple cider vinegar remedies the same multitude of conditions in dogs, including:

1. Relieves or prevents arthritis

2. Improves digestion

3. Acts as a urinary system tonic, clears urinary tract infections, and prevents the formation of kidney and bladder stones

4. Improves the growth and condition of fur and hair

5. Good home remedy for bacterial and fungal infections

6. Reduces dog’s itchy skin, flaking, and dander

7. Makes one less attractive to biting insects like fleas

8. Helps prevent food poisoning

9. Acts as a natural antibiotic for dogs by interrupting the development of infectious bacterial and viral diseases

10. Relieves muscle fatigue

11. Alleviates itching

12. Improves ability to adapt to cold temperatures

13. Works as a home remedy for hock and elbow calluses

14. Works as a remedy to clear and prevent ear infections in dogs

For a more detailed list of ways ACV can be used for dogs, read “Apple Cider Vinegar,” (March 2017) by Cynthia Foley.

Many orthodox veterinarians scoff at such claims because they have never been subjected to the rigors of double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Instead they are supported by personal experiences, testimonials, and other anecdotal evidence.

Barbara Werner first tried apple cider vinegar when her golden retriever, Kate, was 10 months old. Because the puppy was allergic to chemical flea products, Werner was looking for a nontoxic repellent, and a show judge recommended cider vinegar.

Werner began adding ACV to her dogs’ food and drinking water, and she diluted it with water to spray on their coats. That was 11 years ago. Werner has been using it ever since, and Kate is still flea-free.

“In combination with a raw diet and garlic, it keeps biting insects away,” she says, “and I think it improves the dogs’ digestion and makes their coats glossy. I usually add it to the food processor when I puree their raw vegetables, and each dog takes about one tablespoon of cider vinegar per day.”

ACV is a natural preservative that inhibits the growth of bacteria, so it extends the refrigerator shelf life of pureed vegetables to a week or longer, making the blend convenient as well as nutritious.

Because it has a distinctive taste, Tellington TTouch practitioner Karen Doyle of Chester, New York, recommends cider vinegar as a flavoring agent. “When dogs travel,” she explains, “they are sometimes unwilling to drink water that smells and tastes different from what they are used to at home. Most dogs adapt quickly to the taste of apple cider vinegar and will drink any water to which small amounts have been added. Cider vinegar is inexpensive insurance against dehydration.”

Raw VS. Pasteurized Apple Cider Vinegar (and Why It’s Good for Dogs)

Although promoted as a nutritional powerhouse and an unequaled source of vitamins and minerals, especially potassium, cider vinegar contains less potassium than many if not most unprocessed foods. It has only minute amounts of other minerals, and its vitamin content is negligible.

Raw, unpasteurized cider vinegar does contain enzymes and other fragile nutrients that are destroyed by the heat of pasteurization or distillation. Advocates of cider vinegar usually recommend raw, unfiltered, unpasteurized vinegar that comes complete with traces of the “mother,” a slimy sediment that contains the bacteria necessary for conversion from hard cider to vinegar.

Unpasteurized ACV’s enzymes are said to improve digestion. “In addition,” says Beverly Cappel, D.V.M, “apple cider vinegar acidifies the gastrointestinal tract and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria. All of these factors are important to digestion.”

Stomach acid is essential to the breakdown and assimilation of proteins, and when age, stress, or other factors reduce the stomach’s secretion of hydrochloric acid (HCl), the result is incomplete digestion. Jonathan Wright, M.D., often writes about the links between HCl production and the condition of human hair and nails.

According to Wright, the incomplete digestion of protein caused by insufficient HCl is the leading cause of weak, brittle nails and hair. Nutritionally oriented physicians often recommend vinegar, lemon juice, or HCl supplements with meals for patients who complain of digestive distress or who have weak, splitting fingernails.

When dog owners add small amounts of apple cider vinegar to their animals’ feed and notice a gradually improving coat, stronger nails and firmer muscle tone, the reason may be improved protein digestion resulting from an increase of acid in the stomach.

Topical Applications of Apple Cider Vinegar

Apple cider vinegar can be diluted half-and-half with water for external application, and, when stronger measures are needed, it can be used full-strength.

When the male dogs attending a New England dog show experienced an incapacitating allergic reaction that made their testicles swell, Volhard declined the steroid shot offered by the attending veterinarian and instead applied ACV to the legs, testicles, and exposed skin of Cato, her male Newfoundland. The next morning he was completely well and took a High in Trial, while the other affected dogs needed weeks to recover. Volhard recommends ACV for dogs as a hot spot home remedy and preventive, itch stopper, general disinfectant, virus deterrent, food poisoning preventive, and flea and tick repellent.

Apple cider vinegar can be sponged onto a dog’s coat after a bath to remove soap residues and improve hair condition. Vinegar’s acidity and live enzymes are said to kill bacteria that cause flaking skin conditions. Soak the coat to the skin and let it air-dry. This same treatment is said to repel fleas and ticks. Rinsing a dog with apple cider vinegar after shampooing prevents dander. Just please note that apple cider vinegar will stain the coats of lightly colored dogs. For white dogs, substituting white vinegar works fine.

Apple cider vinegar cools the skin when applied to burns, wounds, or hot spots. You’ll want to apply full-strength ACV to topical wounds. It can be massaged into sore or sprained muscles and is the foundation of many herbal liniments that relieve pain and inflammation.

To maximize apple cider vinegar’s benefits for your dogs’ skin, add to it a blend of calendula, comfrey and St. John’s Wort before applying.

Apple Cider Vinegar Controversy

Not everyone, however, agrees that apple cider vinegar should be given to dogs. Pat McKay, canine nutritionist and author of the natural diet book Reigning Cats and Dogs, doesn’t like cider vinegar, and she doesn’t mince words; she calls it poison.

“I believe Peter J. D’Amado is on the right track in his book, Eat Right for Your Type,” she says. “Each of the human blood types has an ideal diet, and the diet recommended for type O most closely resembles the meat-based diet on which dogs evolved. D’Amado warns that cider vinegar is very damaging to this type, and I agree with him. I happen to be a type O, and apple cider vinegar has always made me feel miserable. I never knew why until I read his book. I believe dogs have a similar reaction because even small quantities of vinegar can throw their bodies’ pH out of balance.”

Marina Zacharias, pet nutritionist and publisher of Natural Rearing newsletter, shares McKay’s concern about pH levels. She recommends that owners have their dogs’ blood and urine tested before adding cider vinegar to their daily diet.

“If a dog’s system is too alkaline,” she says, “cider vinegar will help, but by itself it may not correct the problem and the dog will need additional support. If the dog’s system is too acidic, which is a condition called acidosis, the result can be stress on the pancreas and adrenal organs, which are important regulators of blood pH levels. The symptoms of acidosis range from diarrhea or constipation to low blood pressure, hard stools, and sensitivity of the teeth and mouth. Often we see acidosis in combination with other conditions, such as kidney, liver, and adrenal problems. In certain cases, adding vinegar to a dog’s food could aggravate an already-existing problem in the body.”

Are adverse side effects likely? If a dog is allergic to vinegar, he might vomit, scratch furiously, or have a similarly obvious reaction. Although there is much debate on this issue, some believe that vinegar may worsen chronic ear infections. Long term use of ACV on dogs who are sensitive to it has been associated with tooth decay and bone deterioration. Too much could also inflame a dog’s mouth and esophagus.

“You have to apply common sense,” says Sue Ann Lesser, D.V.M. “Most dogs are notoriously over-alkaline, and cider vinegar will help them. If a dog’s system is overly acidic, you’ll see clinical signs, such as obvious symptoms of illness. I know quite a few dogs that take cider vinegar according to the directions in Wendy Volhard’s book, and I don’t know of any that have had bad results.”

In her book The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, author Wendy Volhard recommends using pH paper strips to check the dog’s first morning urine. “If it reads anywhere from 6.2 to 6.5, your dog’s system is exactly where it should be,” and no ACV is needed, she says. “But if it is 7.5 or higher, the diet you are feeding is too alkaline, and apple cider vinegar will reestablish the correct balance.”

Volhard recommends one teaspoon to one tablespoon twice daily for a 50-pound dog.

Apple Cider Vinegar as a Cleaning Agent

Although vinegar’s promoters recommend raw apple cider vinegar for topical and internal use, distilled white or cider vinegar can be used as a cleaning agent, reducing your dog’s exposure to cleaning chemicals. In her book Apple Cider Vinegar, Patricia Bragg, N.D., Ph.D., lists dozens of uses for vinegar in the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, and garden.

Some ways to use vinegar for cleaning include: disinfecting pet toys and pet bedding, deodorizing pets, using apple cider vinegar on dogs after the hydrogen peroxide treatment for skunk sprays, and getting stains out of carpets (with white vinegar).

Apple cider vinegar may be an “unproven remedy” by FDA standards, but many dog owners swear by its internal and external benefits. In the 1990s, when the 0157:H7 strain of E. coli first sickened thousands around the world, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University food scientist Susan Sumner, PhD, discovered that spraying vinegar and hydrogen peroxide on raw meat, vegetables, cutting boards, and other kitchen surfaces disinfected them more effectively than chlorine bleach or any commercial kitchen cleaner. Applying one after the other (in either order) with a mist sprayer killed virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, and E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces. That’s a particularly helpful piece of information for those of us who raw-feed our dogs; adding a little ACV to a dog’s raw food effectively kills the dangerous bacteria that might be present.

Because it is inexpensive, widely available, nontoxic, and easy to use, apple cider vinegar will remain a popular remedy through the 21st century.

Also With This Article

Click here to view “Apple Cider Vinegar For Dogs”

Author C.J. Puotinen is an herbalist and holistic pet care expert as well as author of Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care. A frequent contributor to WDJ, Puotinen is also author of a number of books on herbs. She lives in New York state with her husband and a Black Lab named Samantha.

Mangy Mutts?

By
Pat Bradley
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1

[Updated January 30, 2019]

I have a litter of Boxer puppies and two young female Boxers with a slight case of demodectic mange. I’ve been told so much conflicting information about this condition. I’ve been told by several vets and breeders that demodectic mange is not contagious, but is a genetic disorder brought on by stress or a lowered immune system. One vet (who breeds Boxers) told me it IS contagious and I should put my dogs to sleep! These are my babies; there is no way I’m going to destroy them over a skin condition they aren’t even hurting from. They never scratch or itch.

I am treating the older dogs with a homemade dip (1 quart kerosene, 1 pint turpentine, 1 pound sulphur, 1 gallon used motor oil) every 10 days and it is clearing up. The pups are getting 1/2 cc of injectable Ivermec once a week. I gave one pup away and their vet dipped it at eight weeks old and she died a week later after being very sick for two days.

shelter dog with mange

Please help me with answers to these questions:

What is demodectic mange caused by? Why are Boxers so susceptible to it? How can all these puppies be affected by it when I know for a fact that none of their parents or even grandparents ever had demodectic mange? How would you recommend treating it in an older dog, and how would you treat it in puppies?

– Name withheld by request

One of my dogs (a German Shepherd) has localized demodectic mange. She has slight hair loss around her nose and mouth. My veterinarian gave me some Goodwinol ointment to put on her, but she licks it all off right after I put it on her, which I don’t like.

Is there a more holistic method of dealing with this? Can demodectic mange be cured?

– Name withheld by request

To answer this question, we turned to veterinarian Pat Bradley, of Conway, Arkansas. A graduate of Louisiana State University, Dr. Bradley practiced conventional veterinary medicine for 10 years before opening an all-holistic practice, specializing in veterinary homeopathy in 1995.

There are three types of mange, and each has its own challenges for the dog’s owner. Only one, sarcoptic mange, causes severe discomfort for the dog. I’ll discuss them each, from least serious to most serious.

“Walking Dandruff”

Cheyletiella mange, the least serious, is also known as walking dandruff, due to the enormous amount of dandruff that is produced in response to the cheyletiella mange mites that live on the dog’s skin. These mites spread quickly to other dogs, but the resultant symptoms tend to be short-lived, and the itching the mite causes is mild.

Demodectic Mange

Demodectic mange is caused by irritation from tiny mange mites that live in the dog’s hair follicles. For this reason, it is also sometimes called follicular mange. It is also called red mange, because it usually starts out looking like patchy hair loss. Dogs often get it around the face and around the eyes, and on the feet first. Most of the time, it doesn’t make the dog itch or scratch; it just looks awful.

Demodectic mange is caused by the demodex canis, a tiny parasite, but it is considered by the vast majority of vets to be an immune system disorder, because these mites are found on many healthy dogs with no symptoms of skin disease at all. I have spoken to veterinarians who thought there was a contagious component to it, or that mothers could pass it to the puppies. I think it is more likely that the immune system disorder is genetic, and that the puppies inherit their poor immune system from their mother.

I personally believe the theory that dogs get mange when their immune systems are not functioning well, when the dog’s body fails to mount an adequate defense against the mites and keep their populations under control.

An Immune System Failure

Demodectic mange is most common in puppies, and this is thought to be attributed to the fact that the puppy’s immune system is too immature to control the problem. Some breeds do seem to be more susceptible to it than others, but they are probably the breeds who have more immune problems than other dogs. I have seen a lot of mange on Boxers, pit bulls, and Rottweilers – basically, these dogs (and others) who tend to have weak immune systems overall. And of course, immune system problems don’t just plague certain breeds, they plague certain lines within the breeds, too. For this reason, demodectic mange tends to be a pure-bred disease, although any dogs, including mixed breeds, can get it.

It is also common that dog who are under a great deal of stress, such as lost dogs and shelter dogs, will break out in demodectic mange. Other circumstances that stress the dog’s immune system can also cause an outbreak.

Back when I was in traditional practice, when I was still using steroids for itchy skin conditions, on several occasions I saw mange break out on dogs that had been given steroids. Often in those strange cases, it would turn out that the dog had had mange when it was a puppy, or the dog had been adopted from a shelter and had an unknown background – possibly including mange. Some pregnant or nursing dogs sometimes break out in mange, as do some females in heat. Some old and sick dogs will suddenly break out with demodectic mange.

Local or Generalized Mange

There are two forms of demodectic mange. One is localized, where a dog just gets little spots where the hair falls out. Most of the time, this type will go away on its own, with or without treatment.

Then there is generalized demodectic mange, which covers a larger percentage of the body. In some dogs, the generalized mange never goes away, although a good percentage of dogs stop getting it after they reach adulthood, unless they get really stressed.

Treating Demodectic Mange

Traditional treatment for the generalized type usually involves a dip or other topical treatment. But most dips and other topical treatments don’t touch the mites, because they live so far down in the hair follicles. The most effective dips contain something called Amitraz as the active ingredient. It is pretty toxic, and the dogs can get pretty sick afterward. The standard treatment is a dip once a week, for four to six weeks.

Obviously, I wouldn’t recommend this approach; I think that exposing the dog to this kind of toxin will cause more damage to his health than any potential benefits are worth. I do know some veterinarians have some success using things like Amitraz. But I’m not certain you can properly credit the dip when a young dog gets over the mange, since most young dogs will outgrow the problem anyway.

Most veterinarians have heard of or seen dogs that have been treated with homemade dips made of things like kerosene or turpentine. Most of those preparations are used for sarcoptic mange, but you do see them being used from time to time for demodectic mange. All of these homemade preparations are potentially life-threatening to the dog. Petroleum distillate poisoning is the most likely result of those treatments.

Boosting Immune Health

I would recommend the same treatments for a dog with demodectic mange as I would for any immune-stressed dog: I would put the dogs on some immune-stimulating herbs, such as echinacea and goldenseal (adjust the dose by your dog’s weight, according to the label recommendations for an average 150-pound person), make sure that the dog isn’t vaccinated any more than absolutely necessary, and stop using anything toxic on the dog or feeding the dog any toxins, such as foods containing artificial preservatives and colors.

I’d also tell the owners to try to keep the dog as unstressed and emotionally happy as possible – no sending them off to a boarding kennel or off to a show – and not to let the dog get pregnant and run down.

I’d also recommend improving the dog’s diet: get him the best food you can; a fresh, raw diet is best. A good vitamin/mineral supplement would be advisable, but at a minimum, I would supplement his diet with extra vitamins C, A, and D. I would recommend some fresh garlic in the diet; it helps with every skin condition.

In my experience, homeopathy has been very effective for helping puppies with demodectic mange. However, it is important for a homeopath to take an individualized approach to suggesting the best remedy for each dog with mange; there is no single magic remedy.

Since it is considered as a genetic problem by most vets, many recommend that a mangy dog is spayed or neutered; some go a step further and suggest that the parents of the dog are spayed and neutered. There are some breeders, of course, that really strongly disagree with that. I will just comment that it will help lower the stress on the dog’s system – and therefore, help the dog defeat the mange – if it is not being used for breeding. But I have never heard of anyone suggesting that a dog be euthanized for having mange; that’s pretty extreme.

Sarcoptic Mange

This is the most dreaded type of mange, because it is terribly contagious – to other dogs AND people – and makes the infected dog or person itch horribly. It is better known among humans as scabies.

It’s easy to differentiate sarcoptic mange from demodectic by examining a skin scraping under a microscope. The two different types of mites look very different. Demodectic mange it looks like a little cigar with legs. Sarcoptic mange is very round; it looks like a little tick with legs.

However, it can be a challenge to get a good skin scraping from a dog with sarcoptic mange (which in itself is a clue that the offending mite is sarcoptic, not demodectic), because the skin gets so damaged, and oozes so much keratin and blood after a few weeks of intense itching, that it makes it difficult to find a mange mite in a skin scraping.

Scabies Easy to Treat on Dogs

The good news is that it is relatively easy to get rid of. Usually, just one or two dips with an over-the-counter preparation will do the trick. For sarcoptic mange on puppies, you have to use much milder shampoos, rather than using a dip. Sometimes the dams will have sarcoptic mange and the puppies get it when they are born; you can see it on them when they are really little.

In cases where a litter of pups has sarcoptic mange, I recommend that they are kept in the bathroom, where the floor can be washed with a bleach solution every day, and all their bedding can be washed, too.

Ivermectin is sometimes used to treat sarcoptic mange. Ivermec, an injectable form of Ivermectin, is labeled for use as a cattle dewormer. Its use for mange is what is called “extra label use,” which, strictly speaking, is illegal. The injectable form is a highly concentrated substance, and you have to be extremely careful with it. Some vets do use injectable Ivermectin for sarcoptic mange, but they really should dilute it.

A dog’s skin can get terribly damaged from scratching when he has sarcoptic mange. He may require some antibiotics if he gets a bacterial infection, or even some steroids to help relieve the itching.

Appreciation Day

By
Nancy Kerns
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This is just a quick note to let you know how delighted I am with WDJ. I have ordered and received all the back issues, and am still working my way through them. (I already have a holistic veterinarian and use veterinary chiropractic services occasionally.) I also faithfully cook for by two blessedly healthy dogs.

I have been following the discussions on dog training with great interest, and am now curious: How are service dogs trained? How are the dogs in government service (customs, drugs) trained?

Also, in addition to the “dry” shampoos mentioned in the November issue, I would like to mention “Fur Foam” as possibly worthy of your research. It’s made by Beaumont Products, Inc., Kennesaw, GA, 30144. I found it in the Pet Sage catalog, and use it with great success on my Samoyed. In the past, he had some diarrhea problems, and you can imagine the mess. This no-odor shaving-cream type preparation both cleans and deodorizes. It’s too expensive for a complete “bath,” but super for occasional spot-cleaning.

-Annie Tipton
Harrison, OH

 

Thanks for your kind words and suggestions, Annie. You’ll get your answer about certain types of service dogs in this issue (See “The Smell of Success.”) Readers can ask to receive the Pet Sage catalog by calling (800) PET-HLTH or (703) 823-9711, or looking up www.petsage.com.

———-

First, I must tell you how much I enjoy WDJ. I have learned so much from your publication in the areas of nutrition, learning behaviors, and what products are better for our pets. Our household has two dogs; one is a yellow Lab and the other is a stray we found and, of course, kept. Our stray had many health problems and also many behavioral problems, but over the years he has improved both physically and mentally. He is the main reason for this letter. Since we have found him, whenever we travel he has gone to the same socialized boarding kennel. But we just received word that the kennel is now for sale!

An article in the October 1999 issue listed a few socialized boarding kennels. Do you know of any way to obtain information on where I might find another such kennel in South Carolina? I have been unable to locate one through the Internet, friends, or yellow pages.

-Linda King
Beaufort, South Carolina

 

I don’t know of such a list, but I know at least a few thousand dog owners who would like one. Readers? Any ideas?

———-

I was very skeptical when asked to send in and get a free copy of your newsletter. So when I received my first issue, I quickly sat down to read the information at hand.

I do appreciate the information that was offered regarding nutrition and medical attention for dogs. But I was very disappointed in the “Product News and Reviews” section.

First of all, a very biased opinion was given in this column in regard to the clicker. I have been training my own dogs as well as teaching group classes and private lessons for some time, and I was offended that some of the methods I and many other people use being called “archaic.” I consider myself a very positive and motivational trainer, but the minute that some of these people forget to deal with canines as animals, the enjoyment of what a dog is can be completely taken away.

There are many training methods available, but to limit oneself to only one is not what I would consider the “Whole” picture.

To say that the euthanasia room is where these dogs will end up due to using these methods is ludicrous. Rather, look at the irresponsible breeding going on and of course the LACK of training – this is the big problem.

Please discontinue my subscription. I find the best reading and information is from a variety of sources, not from such a tunnel vision approach.

-Sherma Miles
Highland, UT

 

We’ll admit it: We ARE biased toward non-violence, and don’t plan to change.

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I just received my first issue of WDJ and to my great surprise I found an article on a problem I have right now: fighting between alpha female dogs in a multiple dog household.

I have a 12-year-old female Lhasa Apso, and I recently took in two older, female Norfolk terriers from rescue. I expected a little snarling and snapping while the girls were adjusting, but the oldest, most frail-looking female Norfolk, bit the other two dogs, drawing blood.

I was advised to accommodate the alpha female by allowing them to fight it out, or by supporting the alpha in ruling over the other two. But I decided that in my household the only alpha female would be me! This is “our house,” for dogs and humans alike, not the jungle!

Looks like I made a wise choice subscribing to the Whole Dog Journal.

-Christine Schmidt
Preston, CT

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I’ve been struggling with myself for months now. I have wanted to volunteer at our local Humane Society to walk dogs and have even called to see what is required of me. I enjoy and love dogs so much and my own dog, Jesse, is getting too old for walks longer than a half-mile; that leaves me with another two to three miles to walk dogless!

However, the problem is that I cry when I even think of a dog being euthanized. Even now I can feel that lump growing in my throat!

But after reading your editorial, “Doing it for the Dogs” in the November issue, it has made me realize that even though I have a hard time dealing with this it will be worth it to know that I might make a difference in whether or not a dog is adopted or euthanized. Your article has made me realize what is important and that is the dogs. Thank you.

-Connie Erickson
via email

 

Thank YOU, Connie! I feel like a real success, hearing that I’ve motivated even one person to go volunteer at a shelter.

Best Summer Reading List for Dog Owners

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Summer is here! Whether you are packing your bags for a luxury cruise or making a glass of lemonade and heading for the chaise lounge in the back yard, it’s a great time to grab a couple of good books and catch up on your reading.

As we all know, dogs are hot – and not just in the panting-in-the-sun sense. An excess of books about dogs have been published in the last year, with numerous titles on dog training, care, psychology, and more. But while you can find something interesting in almost any dog book you read, we prefer to spend our precious free time reading those that have lots of useful information.

What follows, then, are our recommendations for the books that should go on the top of your summer reading list. We looked for books that are fun to read, well-written, advocate the use of positive training methods, and offer lots of useful information on dog care and training that would apply to a wide audience.

Our advice would be to forget the cruise – pick up a couple of these books, put dibs on the chaise lounge, and save a spot in the shade for your canine friends. Look in your local bookshop, or call the dog book catalog sources. Happy reading!

Click here to view the WDJ’s book reviews.

-By Pat Miller

One Thing After Another

By
Nancy Kerns
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It all started one cloudy day, just as the temperature starting dropping at night and the leaves of the maple trees in town started turning tan. Overnight, the clear blue sky turned cloudy, we had our first fall rain –and the ants came marching in. They went straight after the cat’s food, which caused poor Rupert weeks of trouble.

How can an ant hurt a dog? I should say, how can a veritable army of ants harm a dog? In a not-so simple chain reaction.

I feed my cat on the top surface of a bookshelf by the front door. It’s the only place in the house where the cat can have access to her food and water all day long, without Rupert helping himself, and without her hourly comings and goings annoying my husband, who, as I’ve said before, would prefer that all cats and dogs lived outside, all the time. (What’s the point of that?)

But then it rained, and the ants came in the house, as ants are wont to do when it rains. They always enter via a new and varied route, until I can discourage them from using that particular avenue with a variety of non-toxic soaps and scents. I discovered that the ants had discovered the cat’s food when I noticed the cat meowing insistently, even though her bowl was full. Heading out the front door, I said to the complaining cat, “Don’t yowl at me, cat! You’ve got a bowl full of … ANTS!” And I jumped back as I saw the blackened bowl full of crawling insects, and the inch-wide trail leading from a crack in a nearby windowsill.

How could this possibly affect Rupe?

Well, of course, while I battled the ants (removing every trace of cat food from the bookshelf, and wiping the trail down with everything from Murphy’s Oil Soap to citronella to lemon juice to vinegar), I had to relocate the cat’s bowl. The trick was to find a place that only the cat could reach – away from potential ant zones, and away from Rupert, who has a thing for cat food.

For two days straight, I failed. I found a couple of out of the way places, but Rupe managed to raid them all, helping himself to at least six small servings of the forbidden food. How a dog can manage to give me the impression that he is ALWAYS under my feet and sneak off to eat cat food simultaneously is beyond me, but that’s a Border Collie for you: overachieving, as always.

Why should I care if my malingering mutt got a few extra calories? Because he is notoriously sensitive to certain foods, and this one set him off. Within a day of his secret snacks, he was an itchy, allergic mess. When he wasn’t slinking out of my office to chew his butt (a blooming hot spot on his hiney), he licked his paws, over and over. By day two the disaster had spread to his left ear; it’s almost always the one on the white side of his head that gets inflamed. He shook and shook his head as the ear got worse.

In the old days, I would have undoubtedly whisked Rupert’s raggedy butt down to the vet, and requested a nice big shot of steroids, please, to stop the itching NOW, as well as a nice new tube of antibiotic ointment for his inflamed ear. I admit, when you spend all day trying to distract an obsessed self-mutilator, it’s tempting.

But time heals. Two weeks later, the ants are gone, the cat food is back on the bookshelf, and Rupe’s skin is healing. It took a lot of patience, some soothing oatmeal shampoo, “Halo’s Natural Herbal Ear Wash” (wonderful stuff available from Halo, Purely for Pets, 813-854-2214), and more than a few applications of calendula gel. But I don’t have a big vet bill to pay, and Rupert’s not panting and drinking (and urinating) voraciously, the way he used to in the aftermath of the powerful shots. I’m sure we’re both better off.

-N.K.

Recent Innovations In The Dog Food Industry

By
Nancy Kerns
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It seems self-evident (to me, anyway) that dogs can live perfectly healthy, long lives and never ever eat a commercial dog food. Why this fact is so shocking to some dog owners is beyond me; the commercial dog food industry is only about 150 years old! (Dogs have been with us a few thousand years longer.)

But maybe it makes so much sense to me because I already went through this with my son. Sure, there are thousands of prepared baby foods on the market – dried flakes, moist purees, and liquid formulas –and you can raise a baby to toddlerhood on nothing but these foods. But at some point most of us realize that the baby would really be a lot better off eating real foods, just like we eat. It makes sense that it’s got to be healthier to break off a piece of your banana and mush it up and feed it to your baby than it is to feed him a jar of commercially prepared, cooked, preserved, and vitamin-fortified banana mush.

On the other hand, those neat little jars are as convenient as all get-out. Jars of bananas don’t turn brown in a week or so of sitting on the counter, and can be taken on car and airplane trips without being worse for wear. And, oddly enough, it’s often less expensive to buy a jar of banana baby food than it is to buy a banana.

Convenience and affordability have also been the driving forces behind the creation (and enormous success) of the dog food industry. In fact, the industry leaders have made buying and feeding canned and kibbled food so much of a societal norm, that it now strikes some people as weird and obsessed to feed a dog “regular” food. While it doesn’t seem at all strange to buy groceries and prepare fresh, wholesome meals for your children or yourself, to some people, it seems over the top to do so for a “mere dog.”

The best of both worlds
Today, everybody knows that eating fresh, whole foods is best for us. And most readers of WDJ realize that feeding fresh, whole foods is best for their dogs. But not all of us take the time and effort to buy and prepare fresh whole foods; many of us prepare many of our meals by opening cans, rehydrating dried foods, and reheating frozen foods. We know that these foods do not create or support health as well as a fresh diet, but the convenience factor takes over.

Similarly, convenience drives many of us to buy commercial foods for our dogs, too. We make up for the guilt of not feeding fresh foods by buying the very best dried and canned foods.

But finally, there are commercial dog food makers who are trying to bridge the gap between providing truly healthy foods and convenience. They are going about it in an interesting variety of ways, and each has its merits and limitations. We’ll look at the ones we like.

One entire segment of this market has concentrated on preparing nutritionally complete canine diets based on fresh, raw meat – diets that are frozen and delivered to dog owners in a variety of forms. In order to carefully examine each of the diverse frozen, raw meat-based products on the market, we’ll discuss them in a separate article in an upcoming issue.

Be Cautious While Tying Your Dog in the Backyard

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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I was trying to be a responsible dog owner. We lived in a rural area of Northern California, in a house with no fenced yard. My boyfriend’s Irish Setter had recently been shot and killed while chasing a neighbor’s goats. A hard lesson to learn, and one I wasn’t about to repeat. So when we were leaving the ranch for a day I insisted we tie up our recently acquired St. Bernard, Bear. We tied him to a tree, made sure he had access to plenty of water and shade and was nowhere near a fence that he could climb over. Confident that we had done the right thing, we drove off.

When we returned eight hours later, Bear was dead. His cable had gotten hooked over the stub of a tiny tree branch and he had hung himself. Another hard lesson learned. I swore I would never tie a dog and leave him again, and to this day, some 25 years later, I never have.

What is Your Purpose for Tethering Your Dog?

People tie up their dogs for a number of reasons, but we feel confident that each problem that has motivated the dog’s owner to tie has a better, safer solution. And Whole Dog Journal isn’t the only source that will tell you this.

For example, some dog owners have perfectly serviceable fenced yards but don’t want Digger excavating in the garden or defecating on the manicured lawn. The dog ends up on a chain.

There are better ways to protect the landscaping, either by fencing off a section of the yard for Digger’s use, or building a pen or kennel to keep him out of trouble when he must be confined outdoors. Better yet, take the time to teach him to use a designated spot as his toilet by regularly taking him on his leash to the right spot and rewarding him for using it.

You can also teach a dog to use a digging spot or a box constructed for that purpose rather than the garden. To do this, soften the soil in the designated spot, or build a low wooden frame large enough for him to move around in comfortably and fill it with dirt. Encourage him to use the box or spot by burying a couple of bones or toys and then helping him dig them up. Anytime he starts to dig in another spot, cheerfully redirect him to the right spot.

Other owners tie their dogs in an ill-advised attempt to protect their property from intruders. It’s true that one of the best ways to make a dog aggressive is to tether him. A dog on a chain is vulnerable to teasing and tormenting by humans and other animals. The teasing may not even be deliberate – simply watching others pass by day after day out of his reach can trigger Killer’s prey, protection, and territorial instincts. As his levels of frustration and stress escalate, so does his aggression. In a short time he can become a lethal weapon; wreaking havoc if his chain breaks or someone enters the territory bounded by the radius of the chain.

In 1986, William Berry tied his pit bull in his yard in Morgan Hill, California, to guard his illicit marijuana patch. Tragically, the neighbor’s toddler wandered next door and was killed by the dog. Berry was charged with second degree murder and later convicted of involuntary manslaughter. The dog was euthanized for doing the job that Berry had asked him to do.

But the primary reason most people tie Rover up is to keep him safe at home. They may not have a fenced yard, or Rover may have learned how to escape the fence. Unfortunately, the hazards of tying are great, and the behavioral side effects can be extreme. Dogs who are tied can hang themselves by jumping a fence or, like Bear, by catching their chains on some hidden protrusion. All too often, dogs who are tied live on the chain for 24 hours a day, often without adequate food, water or shelter – lonely, ignored, in abject misery.

Whatever the motivation, none of them are good enough to risk Fido’s life or the lives of others. There are better ways to keep him safe and out of trouble.

Some Better Options Than Tethering

No one likes to get a ticket from the local animal control officer, although that’s the least of the troubles that Rover can get into when he’s roaming free in the real world. Cars, bullets, dognapping, dogfights, and poisoning top the list of lethal hazards he can encounter. He can also do damage to others by chasing bicycles, cars and joggers, terrorizing schoolchildren, mail carriers and cats, tipping over garbage cans, and destroying personal property. Fortunately there are better ways than tying to achieve the safe confinement goal.

The best way to confine your dog is to keep him indoors when you aren’t home. Not only is he not spending hours figuring out how to Houdini his way out of the fence, he is also not barking at every squirrel, deer and pedestrian who passes by, and you don’t have to worry about him being poisoned by a disgruntled neighbor or released accidentally by the meter reader.

If Fido isn’t allowed in the house, shame on you! Dogs are pack animals. In their natural environment they are rarely alone. When we banish him to the backyard, Fido lives a lonely and deprived existence, and may escalate his escape efforts in search of companionship.

Some dog owners mistakenly shut Fido outside as a puppy, fully intending to allow him in “once he grows up and learns house manners.” He can’t learn house manners exiled to the back yard! He learns by being indoors, being rewarded for doing the right things and prevented from making mistakes through owner supervision and vigilance.

A dog who lives indoors tends to sleep a good part of the day while the owner is away. He is in the pack’s “cave,” and there are plenty of reminders of his pack members (you!) to reassure him that he has not been abandoned.

Containing Your Anxiety-Prone Dog

If Fido is destructive when left alone he may just need some diversions to keep him occupied, or you may have a separation anxiety challenge. Either way, you need to create a dog-safe room (or enclose him in an exercise pen), make sure he gets plenty of exercise before he is left alone, leave him with treat-loaded toys like cream-cheese-filled Kongs, Roll-A-Treat Balls, or Buster Cubes, and teach him interactive games like treat hide-and-seek, where you hide treats and toys around the house so he can spend hours searching for them.

A crate can be a useful tool for keeping Fido out of trouble, but shouldn’t be used in the daytime for more than about four hours at a time. If you are away for the average eight to 10 hour workday, this is not a good solution. It is not advised for dogs with separation anxiety, as they can panic and hurt themselves when confined to a crate.

If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, that is, if he is inordinately vocal or destructive in your absence, and is otherwise housetrained but consistently defecates and urinates in inappropriate places when you leave him alone, you are well advised to seek the services of a local trainer or behaviorist who uses positive training methods. Separation anxiety is a complex problem that requires careful, gentle behavior modification. While owners of dogs who suffer from this syndrome can easily and understandably get angry and frustrated with the damage caused by their agitated canine charges, punishment only makes the dogs’ anxieties worse.

Good Fences Make Good Dogs

If you do leave your dog outside even for short periods of time, a secure, solid fenced yard is the best choice. Solid is best because chain link or see-through wire of any kind allows the dog to be visually stimulated, triggering the same kinds of stress and frustration as tying, which increases barking and barrier aggression.

If you are starting with a puppy who has never learned the dubious joys of running free, you are fortunate. Your fence must be sturdy, and tall enough to discourage any adolescent escape attempts. It is vital that you block all possible escape routes before putting your pup in the yard the first time. If a dog is properly contained during his “formative months,” he is much less likely to try to escape in his later years. If he escapes even once, he will probably try to escape again.

Dogs who never have learned to jump a fence may be effectively contained by a four-foot barrier. But if your puppy learns to scale a three-foot fence, raising the fence to four feet after-the-fact may only teach him to jump or climb higher. When he succeeds at four feet, raising it to five feet will encourage greater athletic endeavors. An ounce of prevention is truly worth several extra feet of fence height! (Make sure that you don’t leave a doghouse, picnic table, wood pile or other climbable object next to the fence to give Rover a boost!)

If Rover has already learned that it’s fun to run, your job will be considerably more challenging. Dogs who jump or climb fences can be discouraged by adding an extension to the top of the fence that leans inward at a 45-degree angle. This makes it difficult for the jumper to accurately gauge the height and location of the top of the fence, and virtually impossible for the climber, since he would have to reach back over his head to grab and climb over the extension.

Planting bushes or putting some other obstacle at the take-off point can also stop a jumper by disrupting his striding. The bottom of your fence should be below ground level to prevent escape by digging. Diggers and fence chewers can often be thwarted by burying woven wire underground or covering the fence with wire. Wire is much less fun to dig or chew through than dirt or wood.

An electric fence may be an acceptable last resort. Although we are not advocates of using electric shock for dog training purposes and don’t recommend the use of electronic, non-visible fences (see, “Pros and Cons of Electric Underground Fences,” WDJ May 1999) if all else fails, you can install a single strand of battery-powered electric fence wire to teach Rover that fences bite. A visible electric wire is far more fair to the dog than a shock collar because the dog can see it; the shock doesn’t come out of nowhere. Most dogs won’t touch the wire more than once or twice before they learn to give the fence a wide berth. Be sure to get a system that uses alternating current and is designed for dogs; some livestock fences may be too strong for canines. You can tie strips of cloth on the wire so it’s easier for the dog (and you!) to see and avoid, and you will want to warn any children who have access to your yard. While the shock won’t cause permanent damage, it would be an unpleasant surprise for an unwary child.

When a Fence Isn’t an Option

Perhaps your yard isn’t fenced, you can’t afford to put one up (or your homeowner’s association prohibits it) and Fido reduces the furniture to splinters if left indoors. Isn’t tying your only option?

Not at all. Chain link kennels are sold at hardware, pet supply, and feed stores. They are relatively inexpensive, can be covered to stop climbers, placed on a cement slab to thwart diggers, and are portable; if you move, you can dismantle the kennel and take it with you.

A cable run, while a slight improvement on a stationary chain because it gives the dog more room to move around, still puts the dog at risk for hanging, aggression, and isolation. It may be an acceptable temporary alternative for a dog who escapes a fence, but only while you are implementing other solutions to keep him safely confined, and only if you are sure he can’t hang, be teased or tormented, and has access to food, water, shelter and human companionship.

Doggie day care is another possibility. Perhaps a dogless neighbor would like some daytime canine companionship, or another dog owner who is home during the day would welcome the diversion for her own dog. Commercial daycare centers are springing up all over the country – there may be one near you! An added benefit is that Fido comes home tired and happy, and is less demanding of your attentions at the end of your own tiring workday.

Tie Downs as Time-Outs

Is there ever a time when it is appropriate to tie a dog? Yes – for a brief period, as a training tool. We recommend the use of a short (three- to five-minute) time-out in your presence wherein Fido is restrained by a four- to five-foot vinyl-coated cable (or short leash, if he won’t chew through it) with a blanket, rug, or dog bed placed where he can relax comfortably on the tie-down. This is useful for teaching him that certain behaviors, usually out-of-control energy or puppy biting, result in a temporary removal from the fun, and can help to teach him house manners.

Don’t be intimidating when giving your exuberant pup a time-out, just gently hook his collar to the tie-down with a cheerful, “Too bad, time-out!” and give him a chew-bone or cream-cheese-stuffed Kong. Then, ignore him until he calms down and settles on his bed (you might need a book or magazine to keep yourself occupied the first few times). A minute or two of calm behavior earns him his freedom. If he gets too wound up again, he gets another time out.

Several repetitions of this routine are usually enough for any dog to realize he has to control himself. Of course, puppies are always confined to an exercise pen or on a leash unless they are under the direct supervision of a responsible human so they don’t learn to be destructive. (See “Preparing For and Training Young Puppies,” WDJ January 1999.)

Many years ago, Bear paid far too high a price for my ignorance about the dangers of tying. If sharing that experience prevents other dogs from suffering a similar fate, I will have finally begun to repay the debt that I owe him for his involuntary sacrifice.

Pat Miller, a dog trainer from Salinas, California, is a regular contributor to WDJ.

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