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Pros and Cons of Electric Underground Fences

[Updated December 14, 2018]

With more than ten years’ field experience under his belt, the veteran humane officer, from Santa Clara County, California, thought he had seen and heard just about everything. Then he got the call from a hysterical woman who had come home from work to find that her dog was being shocked non-stop by his electronic collar.

“Please hurry,” she begged. “He’s totally crazed, and when we try to touch him we get shocked. We can’t get the collar off him!”

The officer rushed to the scene. When he arrived he found that the owners had managed to throw a rug over the dog, restrain him, and cut off the offending collar with a knife. The dog was still so severely traumatized by the experience that he refused to allow anyone near. The woman vowed never to use her underground fence system again.

fences for dogs

Electronic fences and their partners – collars that deliver an aversive agent – have been around for more than 20 years. They seem like the perfect canine confinement alternative to a solid physical fence. They are often marketed as the ideal fencing solution to homeowner association fence prohibitions and for problematic, difficult-to-fence, steep, rocky and rugged living spaces.

But while occurrences of a collar shorting out and administering repeated shocks to a hapless, helpless dog are relatively rare, there are other drawbacks to using electronic fencing systems. A conscientious owner will weigh all the pros and cons before deciding whether or not to invest in this sort of “fencing” system.

How Do Electric Fences Work?

Electronic fences rely on the transmission of a radio signal from a wire or some other transmitter that is typically buried or mounted in an unobtrusive location on the dog owner’s property. The radio signal is broadcast within a specific zone, following the contours of the individual layout. The dog wears a battery-operated receiver on a special collar, which picks up the radio signals when the dog enters the special zone. Most of the systems are programmed so that a “warning tone” is emitted when the dog first approaches the radio transmission area, and, if he remains or travels further into the zone, follows up with an aversive stimulus.

The most commonly used aversive is an electric shock, delivered to the dog’s neck by metal (electrically conducting) prongs set in the dog’s collar. A recent technological innovation provides for some systems to deliver a burst of citronella spray as the aversive instead of an electric shock.

The best of the electronic fence makers teach the dog owners how to condition their dogs to the fence. “Training flags” are installed around the perimeter of the dog’s “safe” territory, to give him a visual hint to its shape and size. For the first few days, it is suggested that the owner applies tape over the prongs on the electrical collar, to minimize any shock that the dog receives, and to keep the dog on a leash. The owner is instructed to walk around the property, allowing the dog to approach the forbidden zones and hear the warning tone. The owner is to pull or call the dog back into the safe area, and then praise the dog.

The next phase involves removing the tape, and allowing the dog (who is still on a leash) further into the danger zone, where he experiences a correction. Again, the owner brings the dog back into the safety zone, praising his retreat from the forbidden area. This is followed by a few more days of off-leash, but supervised experiences, and finally, removal of the training flags. Whether the aversive is a shock or a spray, in most cases it takes only a few applications for the dog to learn that the tone means “Bad things happen here.”

The Advantages of Invisible Fences

There are certainly advantages to electronic fences. They are generally less expensive than a physical fence. Systems range in cost from $120 to $400, and can cover anything from a small yard to a 100-acre parcel, depending on the brand. Variation in cost depends in large part on the features included in the system package, such as adjustable levels of shock strength, rechargeable batteries, and combination fence and no-bark or fence and remote trainer systems. If you are considering investing in an electronic fence, compare features carefully in order to be sure you get the brand that best suits your needs.

Electronic fences are easier to install than a traditional fence. One system uses a wire that is buried a few inches underground, a process that is much less labor-intensive than digging post holes and building fences, especially in rocky soil or on steep brushy slopes. Another type of fence doesn’t even require a buried wire, but instead uses transmitters on “emitter posts” that are inserted into the ground at intervals around the property. Consumers can install the fences themselves, or hire one of the many landscapers and builders who have experience in underground fence installation. Some companies will provide a list of certified fence installers on request.

For those who simply prefer the aesthetics of a fenceless yard or are faced with homeowner association constraints, electronic fences can keep a dog contained without obstructing the view or violating neighborhood sensibilities.

The Negative Side of Invisible Fences

Paul Miller, now director of the Chattanooga Animal Services program in Tennessee, was the Santa Clara humane officer who responded to the call of a dog being shocked by his collar a decade ago. Ten more years of experience in the field haven’t softened his opinion of the product. He argues that electronic fences don’t provide adequate containment to reasonably guarantee a dog’s safety.

“I can’t tell you exactly how many stray dogs I’ve seen wearing electronic fence collars,” he says, “but it’s a lot. Owners forget to replace weak and dying batteries and dogs are soon free to come and go at will. Many owners who come in to shelters to retrieve their shock-collar-sporting wayward hounds will admit that they were aware the batteries were weak and they hadn’t bothered to replace them.”

Another minus: Some dogs seem to have no trouble braving the strong corrections imposed on them by a working collar with fresh batteries if they are presented with sufficiently enticing stimuli: a female in season, a fast-moving cat, a child on a bicycle, a postal worker. And then the dog is stuck outside the fence without sufficient motivation to risk the shock to get back in! For this reason, certain breeds, especially large dogs bred for guardian jobs or dogs with strong hunting drives, make poor candidates for these systems.

Another important consideration is the fact that an electronic fence does nothing to protect your dog from outside harm. The neighborhood canine bully can still enter your yard and attack your dog. Bad people can still come onto your property and steal or torment your dog. (We’ve even heard of one report of an expensive electronic collar being stolen right off of its dog!)

Also, these electronic fences don’t keep children or delivery people from approaching your house and being attacked or bitten by your dog. Finally, dogs with especially long or thick coats may have to have their necks shaved in order for the prongs (and the corrective shocks) to reach their skin. Such disfigurement is not acceptable to all owners.

How Strong is the Electric Shock from an Underground Dog Fence?

Dog owners also need to be concerned about the unintended negative side effects of punishment. Despite the euphemisms used in promotional materials that call the aversive electric shock a “mild electrical stimulus,” a “stimulus distraction,” a “tingle” or a “tickle,” it is, in fact, an electric shock.

In November 1998, while attending the Association of Pet Dog Trainers annual conference and trade show in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, I watched as a number of dog trainers tested an electric collar by wrapping it around their own hands. (The equipment was provided by one of the electronic fence manufacturers, who had a trade booth at the convention.) Different people reacted to varying levels of shock with significantly different levels of sensitivity. While some felt nothing at the lowest setting and only a mild sensation at level three, others described a mildly painful sensation at level one and unpleasant, even intolerable pain at the higher settings. (The shock was felt on the hand, not on the more sensitive neck area. Product representatives refused to allow the human Guinea pigs to test the collars on their necks.) There is no reason to think that our different dogs would not also experience different sensitivities to electric shocks.

The use of punishment in training, especially a punishment as intense as an electric shock, risks irreparable harm to the mutual trust that is critically important in the dog-human relationship. During the training process the dog may associate the shock or spray with the owner’s presence and end up fearing the owner.

Sensitive dogs can be seriously traumatized by just one administration of the punishing aversive. Some dogs may refuse to enter the yard at all after being shocked or sprayed, especially if the yard is small, with a limited amount of “free” space where the dog can feel safe. One Monterey County, California, dog owner reports that while she loves the electronic fence system because it allows her dogs to run loose on her several-acre property (which she couldn’t otherwise afford to fence), her Komondor is so respectful of the boundary that the dog won’t cross it even when not wearing the collar. The owner has to load her dog into the car and drive across the wire just to take the dog for a walk around the neighborhood.

What are the Alternatives to Electric Fences?

What are you supposed to do if you live in an area where fencing is prohibited, prohibitively expensive, or simply not feasible? You can keep Rover in the house, train him to come when called, and allow him outside only under direct supervision. You can install a cable runner, although tying a dog up creates its own set of risks and problems. (Watch for “Fit To Be Tied” in an upcoming issue of WDJ for a discussion of this topic.) You can purchase a chain-link kennel run to provide safe confinement for Rover when you aren’t able to personally supervise his exercise. Or you can move to a neighborhood that allows physical fences.

Some people, however, feel the benefits of an electronic fence system outweigh the negatives of the alternatives. We’d grudgingly acknowledge the potential usefulness of the system, provided it’s used in the following limited circumstances.

Because of the potential for an electronic fence to malfunction, for your dog to simply “run through” it and escape, and for predators to enter your property and injure your dog, we suggest using the system only when you are home and able to monitor its use. This means not using the system when you are not at home (even just for a few minutes), or at night (or any other time you may be sleeping). You must check on your dog constantly, establishing visual contact with him at least every five minutes or so when he is “confined” by the fence and nothing else. And the collar must be removed whenever the fence is not being used as the primary barrier (when the dog is safely confined in the house, for instance). Failing to do all these things exposes the dog to all the various dangers discussed above, while simultaneously giving the owner a false sense of security.

Of course, if your dog is reliably trained to come to you when he is called and you are keeping him under this sort of close supervision, you probably don’t need this sort of system! Which strikes at the heart of our objections to electronic fences: They are really designed as a “convenience” device for people who like having a dog, and who don’t want it to run away, but who are unwilling or unable to go the extra mile to absolutely ensure the safety of their dogs.

There are exceptions. We have met dog owners, for instance, who keep their well-trained dogs under close supervision, but who maintain the electronic fence as a sort of “emergency back up” barrier for their dogs because they live on a busy road, and even an extremely rare, quick trip “off the property” could result in death.

In our opinion, however, there is nothing that can replace training, supervision, and that timeless tool for good neighbors everywhere: a purely “visible,” solid, well-maintained fence.

Positively Convinced

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Just when I started to think I knew something about dogs … I had the pleasure of learning about a large and talented branch of the canine family tree that I knew nothing about: scent dogs. Best of all, I was delighted to discover that these dogs are trained to the highest levels of competency without the use of any force-based training methods.

Late last spring, I read a small item in my local paper announcing the arrival of some 70-plus Bloodhounds and other scent dogs in my town for a training clinic for scent dogs used for law enforcement. I called the host of the clinic, local police officer and Bloodhound handler, Jeff Schettler, to ask permission to attend one of the training sessions. “The public is welcome to come and watch,” he said, laughing, “but you’ll have to find us first!”

Schettler explained that there were six instructors, each leading handlers and their dogs through a different scenting challenge, working from locations throughout the area. For instance, they would be conducting a long-distance “manhunt” throughout the brushy Oakland hills, as well as practicing following trails in a highly trafficked city environment.

I selected a location where we were most likely to find one of the instructors, and set out with my son, Eli. We also brought Eli’s two best friends (twins Brendan and Michael) and their mom, Maureen. Our dog-loving neighbors and their Golden Retriever, Sadie, have been active participants in WDJ product tests and photo shoots since Day 1, so of course, we invited them along. On the drive to the clinic, I asked the boys if they knew what Bloodhounds were. “Those are the dogs that find you if you’re lost!” they all answered – and, then, “Can WE get lost?!” they all wanted to know.

We found a group right away. I introduced myself and my companions to the instructor and asked permission to take photos of the session. I also mentioned that the three seven-year-olds with me were eager to “get lost” for the dogs. “Tell you what,” said the instructor, Timothy McClung, Chief of Police in Perkins Township, Sandusky, Ohio. “We were going to do something called a ‘split trail’ exercise. We could use one kid to act like a kidnap victim.” He pointed to one of the students in the class, a towering man with a shaved head, a thick black moustache, dressed in heavy black Army boots and a green Army fatigues. “He’s going to be the kidnapper.” Suddenly the kids weren’t so sure about volunteering!

This “split trail” exercise was where my education about these amazing dogs began. The exercise replicated a situation where someone was kidnapped; you want to find the victim, but then you’d like to find the unknown kidnapper, too. First, the instructor rubbed a small square of gauze on the head of Brendan, the chosen “victim.” He put the gauze in a Ziploc bag, and then the kidnapper picked Brendan up and carried him away to an unseen location in an apartment complex. Then he set the boy down, and hid himself somewhere else in the complex.

About 40 minutes later, one of the students, reserve police officer Dennis Slavin, of South Pasadena, California, brought out his dog, Tinkerbelle. One whiff of Brendan’s gauze, and the dog took off like a shot, baying with excitement. Despite the fact that Brendan’s feet never even touched the ground, with a scent so fresh, Tinkerbelle didn’t hesitate; she ran straight to where the boy was hidden. Slavin praised her, and immediately gave her the command to search again. She gave Brendan another sniff – and took off baying again, straight to where the “kidnapper” was hiding.

All I can say is, if, God forbid, anyone I know ever disappears for real, I’m calling for a positively trained Bloodhound, first thing.

-N.K.

Dog Gear of the Year – 1999

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Each issue, WDJ brings you reviews of dog products we have tested on real dogs and real dog lovers. As we look ahead to the new year, we’re looking back at our Top Picks of 1999 to help you select stocking stuffers and presents for your dogs and your dog-loving friends.

Most of these products described below were our top selections from our reviews – published earlier in the year – of that type of product. But in a couple of cases, we found a new favorite some time after we published our review. Sometimes, the “better mousetrap” doesn’t emerge until after we have described its closest rivals!

-By Pat Miller

Lick Granulomas

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A lick granuloma is a red, raw, and ugly looking wound, caused by a dog’s incessant licking. The last thing one would think is that it can be a blessing in disguise, but it seems to have been just that for Biggie, a 10-year-old Weimaraner owned by Maryland breeders Bob and Virginia (Gini) Selner. Biggie (AKA “Wyngate’s Music Man”) is one of five dogs who live with the Selners, who breed, raise, and show their Weimaraners. Although he is a handsome and well-behaved dog, the Selners chose not to pursue a competitive career for Biggie, since he simply seemed to lack enthusiasm for the show ring. Specifically, he didn’t like having his mouth handled, and would lock his jaws closed if a judge tried to give him a quick “dentistry exam.” Instead, Biggie became a full-time companion and house dog.

Biggie enjoyed good health throughout his life, until he reached nine years of age. Then he made up for lost time at the veterinarian’s office.

In November of 1998, Biggie suddenly began licking his right hind foot. Within days, he had developed a full-blown lick granuloma, also called “acral lick dermatitis,” on the third toe of his right hind foot. The toe swelled until it was double its usual size, and became infected. The Selners’ regular veterinarian was out of town, so she took Biggie to another vet, who prescribed an antibiotic and told Gini to soak Biggie’s foot in Epsom salts.

Up to this point, Biggie’s lick granuloma was very typical. The lesions are far more common in older dogs (5-12 years of age) than young dogs, and more commonly affect males than females. Dogs of large breeds are more often affected than small dogs. Sometimes, the lick granuloma starts with another wound – a cut, infection, bruise, abcess, or an imbedded splinter or grass awn. In other cases, dogs appear to begin licking out of boredom.

In Biggie’s case, after two and a half weeks of antibiotics and soaking, the granuloma had not improved. In fact, the foot was even more swollen and looking worse.

The Selners then took Biggie to their regular veterinarian, who prescribed a different and more powerful antibiotic. They would see one of two scenarios, the vet predicted: Either they would see a positive response within a few days, or, if no response to the new antibiotic was seen, they would have to consider a surgical exploration of the “mass” in Biggie’s foot. For the next two and a half weeks, Gini gave Biggie the antibiotic, with little effect. With the prospect of surgery looming, she decided to try a very different approach; she felt she had nothing to lose.

A vet with alternatives
The Selners had heard from two of their friends about a holistic veterinarian, Dr. Judith M. Shoemaker, who had performed “near miracles” on their aged pets. Dr. Shoemaker received her Doctor of Veterinary Medicine from the University of Georgia in 1980, is certified by and has been an instructor for the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS), and is a Founding Lifetime Member of the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA). She is licensed in 13 states and travels extensively to both treat animals and teach alternative therapies to other veterinarians.

Dr. Shoemaker’s solo private practice is located in Nottingham, PA, where she specializes in treating sport horses, but also sees dogs, cats, and the occasional rabbit – typically when her horse-owning clients beg her to help their small companion animals. She is accustomed to having new clients come to her with stories about all the treatments they have tried which did not work. “Many people try chiropractic and acupuncture for the first time only as a last resort, when they encounter a problem that can’t be resolved any other way,” she says.

Gini Selner took Biggie to see Dr. Shoemaker on December 5, about five weeks after the Weimaraner’s lick granuloma developed. She was immediately struck by how different Shoemaker’s approach to the problem was.

First, Dr. Shoemaker took a complete health history, asking Gini about any and all of Biggie’s lifetime health problems. She also observed how he moved, on and off leash, and examined his spine.

Treatment matrix
The doctor’s treatment plan was multi-faceted. She began Biggie’s treatment with a chiropractic adjustment. Her spinal examination indicated the large dog was “out of adjustment” in multiple areas. She “adjusted” his atlas (the first cervical vertebra), the middle of his neck (the third cervical vertebra), his pelvis, and his lumbar area, characterizing these adjustments as “fixing the body’s hardware.”

Dr. Shoemaker called her next treatment “fixing the body’s software.” She used acupuncture to generally “balance his body’s energy system,” called chi in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). She used thin, sterile, disposable Japanese acupuncture needles to treat him on his gall bladder, governing vessel, bladder and kidney meridians.

Needling the granuloma
For the lick granuloma itself, Shoemaker used an acupuncture approach called “Surround the Dragon,” following the TCM theory that the lick granuloma is obstructing the flow of energy along the acupuncture meridian underlying the lesion. Dr. Shoemaker inserted several needles at a shallow angle directly into the tissue underlying the lesion. She also placed one acupuncture needle proximal (closer to the body) and one distal (closer to the toes) in relation to the lesion.

The acupuncture needles remained in place for about 20 minutes. According to Dr. Shoemaker, when the acupuncture needles have been in place long enough, they are very easy to remove, and often fall out of their own accord. The beneficial effect of the acupuncture begins immediately, and can continue for several days as the body responds to the improvements.

Dr. Shoemaker told Gini to expect Biggie to urinate a lot and that he might spike a fever, and if so to give him Aconitum, a homeopathic remedy. The veterinarian also prescribed a topical application of colloidal silver on the granuloma, in addition to an oral dose of 3.5 cc once a day.

Details make a difference:
A pedicure and a new collar

Dr. Shoemaker also took steps to ensure that Biggie’s chiropractic adjustments wouldn’t be effaced. She had observed that Biggie pulled hard on his leash when he walked, so she gave Gini a Halti head harness, and showed her how to walk Biggie with this device, rather than a collar (see “Leading Them by the Nose,” WDJ March 1998, for more information about headcollars). Shoemaker has observed that some dogs who pull hard on their collars can misalign their cervical vertebrae. They are unable to pull while wearing a head collar, however, which helps them maintain their spinal adjustments (not to mention their relationship with their walker!).

Finally, Dr. Shoemaker clipped Biggie’s toenails, which, she said, helps maintain the dog’s improved biomechanics. Toenails that are too long can make a dog alter his gait to avoid discomfort, which in turn can cause misalignment of the feet and joints, adversely affecting their movement and therefore the whole body. She recommended that Gini and Biggie return for a follow-up visit in 30 to 50 days, and wished the astonished owner well.

A passing “flood”
Biggie did not get a fever, as Dr. Shoemaker said he might, but on the fourth day after his treatment, he had his first-ever “accident” in the house. As Gini said, “it was a flood like a dam broke.” For the first few days, it was hard to tell whether or not the lick granuloma was improving, but by the end of a week, it was apparent that the hideous wound WAS beginning to heal. By the time two weeks had passed, Biggie had completely stopped licking his wound, and the granuloma had completely scabbed over. And by the time Biggie had his follow-up appointment in January, all the hair on his foot had grown back and the swelling was gone.

At this second appointment, Shoemaker adjusted Biggie’s spine again, but reported that none of his misalignments were nearly as “out” as when she first saw him. Dr. Shoemaker also adjusted his left hock, and several toes on his left front foot, explaining that he had strained this foot while shifting weight off his right hind when it was sore. She also clipped his toenails again.

Dr. Shoemaker was pleased; Gini Selner was beside herself with joy. The total bill for Dr. Shoemaker’s two treatments was less than $200. Today, Biggie is not only better; according to Gini and Bob, he’s better than ever! Both his owners have noticed that the big dog is much more outgoing, and loves being touched – even around his mouth and muzzle! “After a lifetime of not enjoying being petted very much, Biggie has become the classic ‘pet me, pet me!’ dog around visitors,” Gini reports. “This has been such a change, we have even entertained the idea of taking him to a show, just to see what he might do. He is so upbeat and feeling good!”

You can bet that the Selners’ “last resort” veterinarian is now the first person they run to when one of their dogs has a health problem.

Susan Rifkin Ajamian is a freelance writer from Hockessin, DE. 

A Few Dog Product Reviews We Missed

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Although we usually review several similar products each month, new products regularly come on the market in one or more categories that we have already reviewed. This month we have collected several such products and decided it was time to play catch up.

Click here to view the product reviews.

-By Pat Miller

Free to Retrieve: How Acupuncture for Dogs Helped

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He was the most loving dog in the world. He wanted nothing more than to be with me and people.”

That’s how Vicki Holt, a resident of Seattle, Washington, describes Copper, her 12-year-old Chesapeake Bay Retriever. Unfortunately, even wonderful dogs become afflicted with health conditions requiring treatment. And so is the case of this copper-colored retriever who lived to fetch.

Holt adopted Copper from an animal shelter in Seattle about 10 1/2 years ago. “I thought I wanted a chocolate Lab,” she says, but she was immediately taken with Copper, who was about one and a half years old and had recently been released to the shelter by a drug enforcement agency. He had been chosen by the agency to train as drug detection dog, but he wasn’t cut out for life on the force. Says Holt, “Copper was so fixated on the balls they used to train with that he flunked!”

Holt adored Copper, and so did just about everyone who met him. “He was protective, but not aggressive with people or dogs. He was just a mellow, sweet guy. Everybody loved him,” she says.

Copper was a healthy, active dog. “His great love in life was fetching, chasing balls,” says Holt. “He was very active. When he could get near water, that was his second love in life. He was exceptionally healthy.”

Overdoing it did it
Copper was a picture of good health – other than an occasional ingestion of something he shouldn’t have, like rotten salmon – until three years ago when Holt left Copper at her mother’s home while on holiday. Holt’s mother lived in a rural area on the Olympic Peninsula; the house was located on a steep hill. To keep the large retriever busy, Holt’s nephew batted a tennis ball down the hill, so Copper would run up and down the hill to fetch it.

Though fun, the game had ill effects. “When I got home, I found Copper was kind of lame,” says Holt. “He seemed to be hurting and limping a little bit.”

Holt contacted Copper’s veterinarian, Larry Siegler, DVM, of the Animal Healing Center in Redmond, Washington. Dr. Siegler has been practicing holistic veterinary medicine for nearly 19 years. He is certified by the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS) in veterinary acupuncture, and is working toward certification in veterinary homeopathy and chiropractic. His practice is limited to dogs and cats.

Holt prefers a holistic approach to medicine, which is why she chose Dr. Siegler. “The significant thing for me is that the practitioner takes in the whole body, the whole system,” says Holt. “Allopathic medicine seems to treat individual symptoms.” Holt also likes the less invasive approach taken by most holistic practitioners.

Dr. Siegler’s diagnosed Copper’s problems as degenerative joint disease or arthritis, as well as hip dysplasia. Arthritis can affect one or more joints in the body. It is sometimes associated with a history of wear and tear to a joint or occurs with age. Large breeds are more commonly affected by arthritis than small breeds, and overweight dogs are more likely to experience symptoms due to extra stress on the joints. Dogs with degenerative joint disease are lame and stiff from joint pain. Cold and damp weather increases the severity of the condition.

Like arthritis, hip dysplasia is most common in large breeds. The disease is characterized by a failure of the head of the thigh bone to fit tightly into the hip socket. It can be caused by a heritable condition, or be aggravated by excessively fast growth, overfeeding, or excessive exercise. The dog may have trouble getting up from lying down or sitting, may be lame, and lose muscle tone in the rear.

Non-invasive approach
Holt thought the only treatment for hip dysplasia was surgery, though she was hesitant to even consider it because of Copper’s age. She says, “I assumed that surgery was the only thing you could do. But Dr. Siegler about that. He said, ‘Let’s try something less invasive first.’ ”

To relieve Copper’s pain and get him up and moving normally again, Dr. Siegler recommended two supplements, Adequan and methyl-sulfonyl-methane (MSM), in conjunction with acupuncture treatments.

Adequan is a trademarked product manufactured by Luitpold Pharmaceuticals, containing a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) substance, primarily chondroitin sulfate, which can stimulate the production of synovial fluid, the substance that cushions ball and socket joints and keeps them “oiled.” Unlike many other forms of GAG supplements that are administered orally, Adequan is an injectable liquid that is available by prescription only.

MSM is a naturally-occurring sulfur compound which is thought to assist the body’s growth and repair mechanisms. Its proponents say it is especially effective in relieving muscle and joint pain. It is available in a number of forms from health food stores.

However, one or both or these supplements upset Copper’s stomach. Holt switched him to a generic form of another GAG product, glucosamine, and started him on a daily dose of 1500 milligrams.

Copper received an acupuncture treatment on his first visit to Dr. Siegler, and every two weeks thereafter to begin. Acupuncture stimulates circulation, and improved circulation means improved health and less pain. When an arthritic dog feels less pain, it moves better and keeps its muscles in better shape.

Each acupuncture treatment lasted only 10 minutes or so. Dr. Siegler placed about 14 needles on specific meridian points to stimulate healing. “Copper loved the hands-on attention,” says Holt. “He never objected a bit. It’s a relatively painless treatment that can vastly improve a dog’s quality of life in his senior years and a wonderful option.”

Dr. Siegler’s treatment of dogs with arthritis and hip dysplasia varies according to the severity of the condition. While surgery (i.e., hip replacement) cannot be avoided in every case, pain can almost always be decreased. “I always will use acupuncture,” says Dr. Seigler. “Acupuncture in my hands is the deepest acting in terms of getting the body to accommodate the problem. Allopathic veterinarians obviously can’t do that. I always use some type of joint protective of agent like glucosamine. They definitely are effective. I use them myself. And then depending upon how severe the dog’s problem is, there are anti-inflammatory supplements that I might add, like MSM.”

Definite improvement
The combination of glucosamine and acupuncture worked well for Copper. Within two months, he was moving freely and well. As Copper improved, Holt reduced the frequency of his acupuncture treatments.

Copper suffered one setback about three months into treatment when Holt was out of town. She left Copper at her mother’s house again, and he might have overextended himself while “vacationing” there. “We went through the same thing again,” she says. “It set him back badly.”

To get Copper back on track, says Holt, Dr. Siegler stepped up acupuncture treatments again. “To get him back on course, we had to revert,” says Holt. “It took another couple of months to get him back where he had been before. But within two months, he was back to being quite normal again.” That meant getting up more easily, playing, bringing Holt something to throw so he could retrieve it.

Along the way, Holt was curious to know whether it was the glucosamine or acupuncture treatments that was helping Copper. She tried discontinuing the acupuncture, then the supplement. No matter which treatment she discontinued, “He got worse,” she says. “It seems the magic remedy was the combination of the two of them.”

Holt wholeheartedly recommends this simple treatment plan for dogs suffering from arthritis and hip dysplasia, especially for elderly dogs. It’s not a substitute when surgery is needed. But it can help an older dog walk gracefully into its golden years. “It can give them a much better quality of life when they are older,” says Holt.

Editor’s Note: At press time, we learned that Copper had just passed away as the result of an unrelated condition (he suffered a ruptured anal gland, and had a fatal reaction to antibiotics which were prescribed to treat a resulting infection). We offer our heartfelt condolences to Ms. Holt.

 

-By Virginia Parker Guidry

Virginia Parker Guidry is a freelance writer living in San Diego, California.

Answers from Experts – 05/99

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Can Beer and Dogs Mix?
Is the grain from a beer-brewing kit safe for dogs? We feed our Scottie a natural diet rich in veggies, grains, fruits and white meats. I make beer. May the distillers grains be used, in moderation, in her feed and snack crackers?In the first part of the brewing process, you cook malted barley and cornstarch in water for 90 minutes. When the fluid is strained off for beer making, the “brewer’s grain” is discarded or fed to cattle. Is it appropriate for use in dog biscuits and as part of a home-prepared natural diet?

In a related, but separate question, I saw that your article “Herbs for Improved Performance” (WDJ February 1999) recommends giving hops to dogs. Isn’t that dangerous?

-Bruce A. McCallum
via e-mail

We turned over this question to herbalist and holistic pet care expert CJ Puotinen, author of Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care. Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is also author of a number of books on herbs. She lives in New York state with her husband and a Black Lab named Samantha.

Let me start by answering your questions regarding distillers grains. Malted barley is sprouted before roasting, and sprouting makes grains more digestible for dogs as well as people. In fact, the most nutritious grain you can give your dog is grain you soak overnight, drain, leave in a jar for 24 to 48 hours until small white rootlets begin to emerge, then puree in a food processor or crush in a meat grinder. The resulting live, raw, pulverized food resembles the contents of a prey animal’s digestive tract, and small amounts provide domestic dogs with the same vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes and other fragile nutrients that the stomach contents of prey animals provide to wild canines.

In the malting process, sprouted grain is dried in ovens, releasing the sugars and flavors essential to beer brewing. Because it is sweet and has an interesting, complex odor, malted grain is attractive to dogs.

Does cooking malted grain for 90 minutes make it unsuitable for use in dog biscuits? Probably not; in fact, some would argue that prolonged cooking makes its carbohydrates easier to digest.

Is roasted, cooked or baked grain an appropriate ingredient in natural diets for dogs? Now we reach the crux of a fascinating debate. Prior to the development of commercial pet foods, America’s dogs ate the same constantly varying combination of raw meaty bones and table scraps that sustained their domesticated ancestors for thousands of years. It wasn’t until recently that grain replaced meat and bones as the main ingredient in canine diets.

According to Russell Swift, D.V.M., a growing number of veterinarians active in the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association question the use of grains in commercial and home-prepared pet foods. Their argument is that the seeds of oats, wheat, rice and barley are not a significant part of the natural diet of wild dogs because in a natural setting, grains are in short supply. Of the prey animals normally consumed by wild canines in North America, only small birds have a seed-based diet, and even rodents and other animals noted for their love of grain have little access to mature seeds in the wild. Most prey animals live on leaves, grass and vegetation other than seeds.

Why have grains become so “in-grained” (sorry, couldn’t resist) in pet feeding? Swift says that to the best of his knowledge, grains were introduced by the pet food industry, where their high carbohydrate content provides inexpensive calories and helps bind ingredients. Grains give bulk to pet foods, an important consideration in customer satisfaction. A large quantity at a low price makes grain-based foods seem practical and substantial. Thanks to 60 years of advertising and availability, grain-based foods are familiar to all. In fact, notes Swift, “We have become so used to feeding grains to dogs and cats that most of us get nervous when we decide not to use them.”

However, grains can generate a host of problems for our canine and feline companions. It is difficult for dogs and cats to produce the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary for carbohydrate digestion and assimilation; the proteins in grains are less digestible than animal proteins; foreign, nonnutritive protein and carbohydrate particles irritate and weaken the immune system, often resulting in allergies and chronic immune problems; and the demand for amylase so stresses the pancreas that Swift and others believe grain consumption is a likely cause of diabetes, pancreatitis and other digestive tract disorders. Add dental calculus problems and you have an impressive list of conditions that may be linked to grain consumption. A growing number of holistic veterinarians, breeders, trainers, groomers and owners recommend replacing commercial pet food with an all-raw diet that more closely approximates the food on which dogs evolved and which they are well equipped to digest.

For information and guidelines, I recommend that dog owners read the following books:

• Give Your Dog a Bone, by the Australian veterinarian Ian Billinghurst (Billinghurst, 1993);

• The Ultimate Diet: Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats, by Kymythy Schultze (Affenbar Ink, 1998);

• and my book, Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care (Keats Publishing, 1998). All of these books are available from Direct Book Service’s Dog & Cat Book Catalog (PO Box 2778, Wenatchee, WA 98807; ph (800) 776-2665; fax (509) 662-7233; www.dogandcatbooks.com.

Dog biscuits made with leftover brewer’s grain may be just as nutritious as any other biscuits, but that’s about all one can say in their favor. Regarding feeding hops: In 1995, the National Animal Poison Control Center at the University of Illinois in Urbana recorded eight fatal cases of hops toxicity; the victims were seven Greyhounds and a Labrador Retriever mix whose ingestion of spent hops from home beer-brewing kits resulted in malignant hyperthermia, an uncontrollable fever rising as fast as two degrees Fahrenheit every five minutes. Warnings soon appeared in dog magazines, veterinary journals and herbal publications about the dangers of feeding hops to dogs, especially Greyhounds.

There is a world of difference between a bucketful of hops residue from beer making and the small amounts of fresh or dried hops used in herbal teas, powders and tinctures. Hops growers, manufacturers and distributors reported nothing different about their production methods when the fatal beer kits were assembled, and the cause of the problem remains a mystery. No cases of hops toxicity have been reported since the original eight cases.

Does Your Dog Got Milk?
I would appreciate some information about the pros and cons of feeding milk to dogs. My dog was born on a dairy farm and LOVES milk. But everyone I know says it is bad for her. They say it will give her stomach aches, gas, and allergies. Is this true? She seems to do just fine with it.

-Rai Buchan
Willington, CT

We directed this question to Carolyn Blakey, DVM, of the Westside Animal Clinic in Richmond, Indiana. Dr. Blakey has been practicing veterinary medicine for 32 years, the last four in an all-holistic practice. She especially enjoys serving as a holistic veterinary consultant to clients all over the country.

Congratulations for disregarding the advice of your well-meaning friends and having faith in your dog’s good condition! If your dog was vomiting, experiencing diarrhea, or had gas, then it would obviously make sense to stop feeding the dog milk to determine whether it WAS causing a problem. And if your dog starts exhibiting these symptoms, the milk would be the prime suspect. But if you dog regularly drinks a certain amount of milk, and continues to look good and feel good, keep it up!

Lactose is the substance in milk that causes digestive disturbances for a lot of dogs (and people!). Lactose is a sugar, and is found in the milk of all mammals. To digest lactose, an animal needs a digestive enzyme called lactase, which increases the rate of conversion of lactose to glucose and galactose, carbohydrates needed by the body for energy. Most mammals produce lactase in sufficient quantities to digest milk when they are young, but progressively produce less and less lactase as they age. (Mother Nature never intended animals to drink milk their whole lives.)

Any animal that produces enough lactase can have all the milk they want. But if their bodies don’t produce enough lactase, they will experience digestive problems, usually diarrhea and gas.

If a dog really loves milk and is somewhat lactose-intolerant, you can buy milk that has been supplemented with acidophilus, or feed her yogurt, which is also laden with enzymes that assist in the digestive process.

The fact your dog was raised on a dairy, and milk was apparently given to the dog daily, helped cue her body to continue producing lactase. As long as she continues to do so, she’ll be fine; milk is a good source of protein and calcium, after all. But I wouldn’t suggest that other people start giving milk to their adult dogs; their bodies wouldn’t be prepared for it.

Take Care

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Occasionally, as he casually scans the printouts that decorate every horizontal surface in my home office, or picks up a new item we are reviewing for WDJ, my chosen life partner starts laughing out loud.

This can be partially explained by the fact that Brian is not exactly a “dog person.” He likes dogs, but he casts a skeptical eye on any but the simplest dog care practices. For instance, like many people, he’s a staunch believer that “all dogs belong outside, no matter what.” (If my dog wasn’t so easy to live with, so well-mannered and inconspicuous in the house, we’d surely have one HUGE fight on our hands over where the dog lives.)

Brian’s most recent inspection of my office was typical. He started off by howling at the package for the “Doggie Dooley,” a dog-waste disposal system we are currently evaluating. (“Can you train a dog to poop right into the potty?” he chuckled. “Where do you hang the toilet paper roll?”) Then he spotted a water-delivery system that we are reviewing for another issue; it’s similar to a bottled-water cooler for people, but the base is a drinking bowl, rather than a tap. “Where is the refrigerator unit?” he had to ask. “Why can’t the dog get the water chilled?”

My partner’s good-humored criticisms stem from an abiding sense that people today have lost perspective. One of his favorite rants is, “Dogs today are living better than people!”

I can see his point – to a certain extent. It’s true that in our part of the country, the heavily dog-populated San Francisco Bay Area, most dogs live well. And it does give you a bit of a turn when you see a homeless family panhandling at an intersection while a pooch gazes idly out the window of an expensive car, on his way to an appointment with a dog masseuse.

I’m not here to argue whether or not the world has enough resources to feed every man, woman, child, and dog on the planet, and what politics preclude this. But I will defend what Brian (and many others) laugh at – doggie toilets, special water bowls, and dog massages. And not just because they are beneficial for the health and well-being of our dogs.

I seek out, write about, and defend any beneficial dog-care practices and products because I think there is an incredible lesson that can be learned from caring for another being, even if it is “just a dog.”

I’ve seen the following transformation many times: It starts out with a person who loves her dog more than anything. In an effort to remedy a health problem, or just because she “wants the best for her dog,” the person starts feeding the dog fresh, real, top-quality foods, using herbs and nutritional supplements, and exercising the dog, all of which result in bringing the dog to a glowing state of health.

It doesn’t take long for this person to realize that what’s “good for the goose is good for the gander,” and starts improving her own diet, exercise, and medical care. (After all, how can you buy fresh meat and vegetables for your dog, and then sit down to Hamburger Helper or frozen TV dinners? You can’t!) She soon feels so much better that she begins “preaching health” to her friends and family. A health revolution has begun in her circle.

And, by learning about the value of dog waste composting systems, for example, people might learn about alternatives to dependence on landfills and sewage treatment plants. By learning about the health benefits of clean, pure water for their dogs, people might begin drinking (and valuing) fresh water. And, surely, when people learn the benefits of giving their friends a little relaxing massage every now and again, it makes the world a better place to be. Caring for others is how you start to change the world, for the better.

-By Nancy Kerns

Training Your Dog to Use His Nose With Positive Reinforcement

One of the cool things about dogs is the variety of tasks, tricks, and trades they can learn. Dogs perform lifesaving work in search and rescue and criminal justice venues, and they are employed to detect everything from prohibited fruits, vegetables and meats in airports to termites in homes. These abilities are directly related to their sense of smell. All dogs have a highly developed sense of smell, although some breeds – primarily scenthounds and sporting dogs – show greater ability than others.

A powerful nose is the first requirement for identifying or tracking down weapons, accelerants, explosives, drugs, food, missing persons, bodies hidden under water or beneath mounds of snow. The dog must also be highly intelligent, with the ability to think independently and solve complex scent problems. However, the dog needs more than these gifts of nature in order to be effective in this line of work. According to experts in scent-dog training, these talented dogs must be handled and trained with a simple but highly effective technique: positive reinforcement. No other training method is as effective in producing competent, reliable, and willing scent dogs.

Pure, positive power

Numerous articles in WDJ have described the effectiveness of positive training for teaching dogs to exhibit general “manners” and acceptable behavior. But while positive reinforcement techniques enjoy generally widespread acceptance among “pet dog” trainers, some old-school trainers believe that their use – especially when food is involved – don’t result in a dog that responds with precision and reliability. Treats and other positive reinforcements are best used for trick training, they say.

The professionals who train scent dogs for police work and other serious duties would take issue with that opinion, however.

If confronted with a person who feels that treats are only good for teaching tricks, “I would tell them to watch a well-trained mantrailing Bloodhound at work,” says trainer and Illinois law enforcement officer Jack Shuler, who has worked with mantrailing Bloodhounds for 22 years.

“Their drive, determination, dedication, and single-mindedness to find the source of the scent trail they are following is beyond compare and certainly cannot be called a ‘trick,’ and all this is achieved through training with positive reinforcement,” says Shuler. “Another good example would be a narcotics detection dog. He will work for hours hunting the smell of illicit drugs just to get to play with a tennis ball or towel for a couple of minutes.”

No place for force
As Shuler points out, most dogs can be intimidated and even physically compelled to comply with simple commands like Sit and Down. But following a scent trail or identifying items by their scent is not the kind of skill that any dog can be forced to exhibit. It’s true that scent dogs may naturally demonstrate a high degree of curiosity with their noses, sniffing at anything that interests them. But the ability to differentiate between and indicate the presence of specific scents is something that can be taught only with rewards for making correct decisions. And, as is customary with the positive reinforcement approach, when the dog makes incorrect decisions, he is either ignored or gently redirected.

“You can’t make a dog use his nose,” explains Sandy Seward, an instructor with the United States Department of Agriculture’s Beagle Brigade in Orlando, Florida. “They’ve got to want to do it. So, as a trainer, you must not only understand how a dog’s mind operates and how he perceives stimuli around him or your actions toward him, but you’ve also got to make it a game for him, make it worth his while.”

The rewards that make a dog’s efforts worthwhile range from tone of voice to tug-of-war games to well-timed treats. Words themselves are not especially meaningful to dogs, but a high-pitched tone of excitement or a soothing monotone can get results, no matter what the trainer actually says. The promise of a ball to be thrown or the offer of a treat can lure a dog, giving him the incentive to try things he might not otherwise be interested in doing on his own.

These small rewards may seem insignificant to us, but their power to motivate a food- and fun-oriented dog is Herculean. Take it from police officer Jeff Schettler, of Alameda, California. His partner on the force is a Bloodhound named Ronin. “Cookies are a good tool to get Ronin to try things he is afraid of,” Schettler says.

“The food drive is directly related to the prey drive, in my opinion. For example, Ronin is normally afraid of creeks and lakes. He will get his feet wet, but he won’t swim. When we are working, though, he will actually swim to get to his ‘victim.’ Around the house and when we aren’t working, he is afraid of loud, sharp noises, but when he’s on the trail he could care less. On one occasion we were shot at, and he ignored it completely. It’s kind of amazing.”

Creative, individual approach
Trying to figure out what reward will work with a particular dog is one of the challenges of training. It often requires creativity and the constant reminder that each dog is an individual. “With some dogs you can just say ‘Find it’ with an exciting uplift at the end of your request,” Seward says, “but with this last group of dogs I trained, I could not get one dog interested in coming up to and sniffing any of the boxes, no matter what I did. In desperation, I made a really high-pitched, squirrelly noise while I was tapping the box I wanted him to investigate, and that finally aroused his curiosity. Every dog is different.”

To keep her creative juices flowing, Seward keeps a list of tricks that have worked with all the dogs she has trained. As she trains, she takes extensive notes on each dog’s reactions. “I start with five or six dogs at a time, each presenting four or five separate scenarios that cause me to reach into my bag of tricks. As I get to each dog, I refer to my notes, which tell me, ‘This is the dog I’ve got to move fast with’; ‘This is the dog that needs lots of gestures’; or ‘This is the dog that shies away from gestures.’ ”

Besides being creative in finding rewards, trainers must also be creative in solving problems. While it’s easy to yell at a dog for doing something wrong, it’s not so easy to find a positive way to motivate him or to prevent failure. One of the tenets of positive reinforcement is that a dog is never allowed to fail.

“If the dog has a difficult time working through a training problem, the handler and victim work as a team to help the dog through it,” says South Pasadena, California, police officer Dennis Slavin. “I like to use one of the dog’s favorite ‘victims’ – usually my wife – to introduce complicated problems and difficult trails. The dog is more motivated than usual to find that favorite person and works harder at solving the problem.”

If positive reinforcement seems like a lot of effort, it certainly can be. The rewards for the trainer, however, are proportionately greater. “It seems to take a little bit longer for the dogs to evolve sometimes, but I think it works better because you have a more positive relationship with the animal. It’s more of a partner relationship rather than a master-type relationship,” Schettler says.

Not only does positive reinforcement make sense as far as getting the dog to respond to training, it’s also the best way to interact with often sensitive dogs. Hounds in particular are known for their gentle, somewhat shy temperaments. “It was stressed to me early by my mentors, Glenn Rimbey and Kat Albrecht, that bloodhounds don’t respond well to discipline, physical discipline, in particular,” Schettler says. “They can be unusually sensitive and have incredible memories. Once exposed to a negative, they never forget.”

But no matter what the breed, positive reinforcement works well with any aspect of training, primarily because it’s stress-free. We know that humans learn more quickly and eagerly in an accepting environment, and dogs are no different. The attention he receives when he performs in the desired manner encourages a dog to repeat that behavior.

No negatives!
When is it OK to punish a scent-dog-in-training? Never is the unanimous response. “If a dog is not doing something I want him to do, the way I may punish him, if you want to use that word, is just by ignoring him, withdrawing attention,” Seward says. “When a dog is stressed, say through physical or verbal correction, he can’t readily learn or absorb what it is you’re trying to convey.”

In fact, negative reinforcement can backfire when used with sensitive dogs. “Bloodhounds get their feelings hurt very easily,” concurs Shuler. “The techniques used in the training of ‘harder’ breeds of dogs, such as those used for police patrol work, would totally devastate a Bloodhound. Bloodhounds are very devoted to their people, and positive training techniques encourage them to do exactly what their human wants them to do.”

When a dog makes a mistake, the best response is to ignore the error and gently refocus him on the task at hand. Any number of things could have caused the mistake, from inexperience to eagerness to confusion. “It’s possible that somebody walked by with a bag with odor as the dog was sniffing a bag with no odor,” Seward says. “Because the odor happened to go into his nasal cavity at that particular time, his inexperience may cause him to make an alert. But if you do something aversive to the dog, you may be stifling his ability to blossom into the more precise and accurate detector dog that you expect down the line. You have to expect mistakes.”

When working with scent dogs, the handler also has to be sensitive to the fact that if a mistake is made, it’s just as likely to be the handler’s fault as the dog’s, making punishment for the dog even more inappropriate. Schettler learned this early in his work with Ronin. The two had worked six or seven cases, following some good trails, but had yet to find anyone. Then they were sent out on a missing person search.

“The lady had been missing for four days,” Schettler describes. “Her car was found in a cornfield and appeared to have been ransacked. It looked like a crime scene, and everybody feared the worst. I started Ronin, and within about an hour and a half he found a lady, hiding in some bushes and cattails. I didn’t see her at all. Ronin just ran into the bushes, and the next thing I knew he was standing in this lady’s lap. I was shocked, and I didn’t think it was the one we were looking for. I almost told Ronin to get back on the trail. But then I asked her who she was, and she wouldn’t tell me. I started looking at her, and the description matched. It turned out that she had a fear of society and didn’t want to come back.”

Once Schettler knew that Ronin had found the correct person, he hurried to praise the dog for his success. To keep the dogs motivated, handlers must be sure that their dogs are praised and positively reinforced for each of their successes, no matter what kind of chaos arises as a result of their find.

“A Bloodhound does not differentiate ‘bad guy’ trails from ‘good guy’ trails,” Slavin says. “As far as the hound is concerned, once she is scented on the person she is looking for, her goal is to find that person so she can be overwhelmed with praise and affection. For this reason, it’s important for us to follow a criminal trail – in which the prey is never happy to be found – with a short positive trail on a person who will join in praising the hound. This helps to maintain the hound’s enthusiasm and confidence.”

Treats are no trick
Unfortunately, there are still numerous trainers who learned how to train dogs primarily by punishing the dog’s undesired behavior, and who just don’t believe that treats and praise can be used to shape a dog’s behavior the way they’d like. “My first instinct in response to that attitude is to say ‘Try it, you might like it,’ ” says Seward, who describes herself as a “crossover” trainer. “I came from the old school, and I can appreciate that train of thought because I used to be there.

“Once I tried it, though, I found that I got much more out of the dog, and the training sessions could last longer, with the dog retaining much more of what I was trying to get him to do. I think a lot of the resistance is just lack of understanding of the mechanics of how the dog assimilates information.” Seward’s greatest successes, she says, are when she sees positive reinforcement techniques change a dog whose status is shaky. “It’s great when I’m able to take a dog that probably shouldn’t ever have gotten into the program, one we refer to as a borderline dog, and watch the positive reinforcement reshape the way this dog interprets my actions toward him.”

-By Kim Thornton

Kim Thornton is a freelance writer living in Lake Forest, CA.

Treating Your Dogs’ Injuries Holistically

No matter how careful you are with your dog’s everyday health needs, it’s in his nature to be incautious and inquisitive. And that sometimes results in injury. Odds are, it’s just a matter of when.

However, your conviction to treat your dog with natural remedies is put to a real test when you are faced with an emergency. Whether your dog is severely injured in an accident or scraped and cut from a fight, your first reaction should be to remain calm, remember what you know, and think holistically.

Just as you plan and prepare your dog’s daily meals and training, advance planning and preparation for the unthinkable accident may help save your dog’s life during the critical time between the beginning of the emergency and access to veterinary care.

The time to plan, obviously, is before your dog is involved in an accident. Start gathering the contents for a first aid kit today (see “First Aid Kit for Dogs,” below). If your dog travels even short distances away from home then it’s a good idea to make your kit portable. Or prepare two kits – one for home and one for the car.

Have a First Aid Ready

The most important first step in dealing with an emergency is for everyone to calm down. It’s important for you because you’ll need to think clearly and it’s important for your dog because he needs to allow you to begin treatment. This is the time to use soothing reassurance, and to give an emergency flower essence (see the link for “Rescue Remedy: Nothing Short of Miraculous,” below) to everyone involved – don’t forget yourself!

Two homeopathic remedies are frequently mentioned by veterinary homeopaths as being useful in cases of shock, trauma, or extreme fear: Arnica montana 30C and Aconitum 30C. The famed veterinary homeopath, Dr. Richard Pitcairn, suggests giving a dog two pellets of Arnica 30C every 15 minutes for a total of three doses following a car accident, a situation where a dog stops breathing (assuming resuscitation efforts are underway), for convulsions, gunshot wounds, or serious bleeding. For a dog who is unconscious, he recommends following the doses of Arnica 30C with one pellet of Aconitum 30C every 10 minutes until consciousness is regained.

Holistic dog care expert Wendy Volhard and holistic veterinarian Kerry Brown, authors of the Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, suggest administering Arnica 30C for any bruising injuries, such as those suffered in a fall or car accident. This remedy is also excellent for use after surgery.

Examine the Dog Carefully

The next step is to try to identify the problem. Since dogs have a knack for getting into trouble when their human companions aren’t around, you may have to do some detective work. Internal injuries, even fur-hidden symptoms on the skin might not be evident. If his symptoms are severe, call your vet as you begin to treat your dog and, if possible, call a friend over to help. If you do need to make a quick trip to the vet’s office or clinic, your friend can drive while you tend to your dog on the way. To prevent any further harm or stress, try to keep the dog immobile, carrying him in a blanket sling if necessary, and prevent shock by keeping him warm.

Even dogs with the most docile personalities may bite when they’re confused or in pain. To keep from being bitten, you may have to use a soft muzzle. Or, you can firmly tie the dog’s mouth shut with an old sock, stocking, or cloth, leaving the ends long enough to tie behind the dog’s ears. Be careful not to restrict the dog’s breathing.

When Your Dog Has Cuts, Abrasions or Bite Wounds

Most dogs will incur at least a minor cut or bite at some time in their life. With all open wounds, the major concerns are stopping the bleeding and preventing infection. Badly torn or deep cuts must be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Also, bite wounds in the chest area are extremely dangerous as they can indicate a puncture through the chest wall, allowing blood to fill the chest cavity, or a collapsed lung.

After administering Rescue Remedy or Arnica, flush the wound with lots of water, especially if it’s an animal bite. Diluted hydrogen peroxide (about 1/2 teaspoon per cup of water) or plain soap and water may also be used to cleanse the wound. If you can, clip the dog’s hair from the edges of the wound so you can see whether or not you are cleaning it completely. Excessive bleeding can be controlled (while you travel to the vet’s office) with a pressure bandage. Place several layers of clean, dry gauze over the wound, fixing it in place with an elastic bandage, being careful not to use tourniquet-like pressure (this is especially critical on leg wounds). Put adhesive tape on the ends of the elastic bandage to keep it in place. Keep the bandage in place only until the bleeding stops and remove it if you notice any signs of swelling or coldness below the bandage.

Several herbs can also be used to stop bleeding. A sprinkling of the Chinese herbal powder called Yunnan Pia Yao under the bandage will help staunch the bleeding, as will homeopathic calendula in a spray or ointment. If the wound is small and the bleeding stops quickly, you can treat the wound yourself with echinacea, goldenseal, hypericum, or calendula, all of which display natural antibiotic action. Calendula may be used topically or internally to promote healing of torn or open wounds and to prevent infection. Its rapid healing properties are not good for puncture wounds, however, as they will heal too rapidly and seal in infection.

Although most wounds heal better in the open air, for larger wounds, soak a gauze pad in calendula spray or gel and tape it over the wound for one to two days. This will keep the wound clean until it can heal closed.

For puncture wounds, dilute hypericum tincture (five drops in 1/4 cup of water) and flush the wound or, if the wound is on an extremity, soak it in the hypericum solution. We particularly like Boericke & Tafel’s “Califlora” calendula gel and Hyland’s homeopathic “Calendula Spray,” both of which are readily available at most health food stores. For more detailed instructions for treating wounds with calendula and hypericum, see “Dog Injury Solutions,” WDJ January 1999.

Homeopathic Remedies for Dogs

Dr. Pitcairn uses a number of homeopathic remedies for common health problems. He suggests Ledum for insect bites or needle punctures, especially when the skin around the injury seems bluish or feels cold.

An oral administration of Silicea can help the dog’s body expel splinters and other foreign bodies. Don’t try to grab insect stingers with tweezers or your fingers as they will squeeze more poison into the wound, Pitcairn says. He advises using a dull knife, held perpendicular to the skin, to scrape across the sting. This will grab the stinger and pull it out.

Bleeding or swelling may not be immediately obvious with some wounds, especially with long-haired dogs, so be watchful for other symptoms of injury: swelling, sensitivity to touch, lethargy or irritability. An abscessed wound may respond to Hepar sulph if the animal has become chilly, irritable, and the abscess is very painful. Silicea will help heal an old abscess, especially when it is not very painful. For an acute problem, any potency of the remedy may be given.

Given internally, the homeopathic remedy Arnica montana is a good remedy for trauma, especially in cases of soft tissue injury such as bruising. The dog may not want you to touch the injury or, in extreme cases, to approach him. He may be restless and anxious. Arnica promotes circulation, which will help cleanse the injury and reduce the soreness.

Homeopathic Hypericum is characterized as the Arnica for nerve injuries. Paws that have been crushed, injuries from punctures, any injury to the nerves, especially paws, nails, coccyx, gums, respond to Hypericum. If the spine is very sensitive to the touch or the slightest motion of the legs or neck causes the dog to cry out, administer Hypericum.

Poisoning and Allergic Reactions in Dogs

Many dogs are compulsive taste-testers. They’ll lick or eat almost anything – dead or alive. They can also lick substances off their coats and feet. Symptoms of poisoning include severe vomiting, diarrhea, delirium, convulsions, coughing, and abdominal pain. Although the source of the poison might be visible or some might still be adhered to his fur, there’s a chance you won’t know what your dog ingested. In this case, it’s best not to induce vomiting. Some chemicals, especially acids, do more damage on their way back out of the esophagus. And you definitely shouldn’t induce vomiting if your dog is unconscious.

Call your vet or the Animal Poison Control Center for a treatment recommendation. If you know what substance the dog ate, and the experts tell you that you should induce vomiting, you can use a teaspoon of syrup of ipecac or a tablespoon of a hydrogen peroxide and water solution at a 1:1 ratio.

If your dog seems lethargic or is staggering, check for signs of an insect bite: swelling and/or reddened skin. Some dogs may develop hives in reaction to insect bites. Homeopathic Apis or Ledum can reduce the swelling, itching, pain, and redness of this kind of allergic reaction.

Preventing Injuries is Even Better

Of course, keeping your dog under close supervision is the key to preventing injuries. But some holistic veterinarians go one step further. They say that raising and keeping dogs in a healthy, non-toxic environment is the best way to protect them against injury. “Animals that are treated holistically, fed a raw food diet, are vaccinated very little, and are as healthy as possible, will recover more quickly from any accident, trauma, or poisoning,” says Christina Chambreau, a Maryland veterinarian who uses homeopathy extensively in her practice.

So, keep your eye on your dog, keep him healthy, and stay prepared.

Karen Director is a freelance writer from Tollhouse, CA, and is in the process of adopting a canine companion.

Thanks to Christina Chambreau, DVM, for her help with this article. Chambreau, a veterinary homeopath, practices near Baltimore, MD. 

The Healthy – Properly Functioning Canine Immune System

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For a dog, the perfect life would have love, toys, sunshine, plenty of exercise, just the right amount of good food – and the one crucial thing which makes all of that possible: an immune system that works as nature designed it to work. For all “higher” organisms – from ticks to Texans – the immune system brings good health or takes it away. A healthy, properly functioning immune system operates like the world’s most omnipotent drug. When they’re at the top of their game, this system of body defenders can recognize and annihilate any invading viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites. But it’s an incredibly complex system, based in the bone marrow, and interacting intricately with both the blood circulatory and the lymphatic systems. Each part of the system plays a pivotal role in growing, developing, or activating the cells whose actions defend the body from invasion. This complexity, unfortunately, makes it prone to occasional lapses, and sometimes catastrophic failure. Even the healthiest dog is likely to suffer an immune malfunction at some point in his or her life – even if it manifests itself only as an allergy, a recurrent bacterial infection, or an entrenched bronchial virus. But some dogs, like some people, are born with fatal flaws in their immune systems, leaving them vulnerable to disease, and perhaps doomed to an premature death.

For much of the current century, medical science has focused on “fighting disease,” looking for drugs and other medical methods that could be used to destroy the bacteria, viruses, and tumors that threaten lives. But in the last 20 years or so, scientists have come to realize that treatments that help optimize the immune response might be just as effective, if not more effective, at preserving health. Of course, this confirms everything that holistic veterinary practitioners have been saying for decades: “If the dog is truly healthy, he can withstand any disease challenge.” Purpose of the system The immune system is often described in military terms, because it acts in such a similar fashion. The purpose of the immune system is to detect threats to the body and eliminate them, just as armies are supposed to identify threats to a government and put down those threats quickly. Infections – infiltrations, if you will – of any foreign agents elicit a rapidly escalating defensive response. When the system works as it should, the appearance of “invaders” alerts cellular “scouts;” either destroying them immediately, or marking them for destruction by other types of cells. If the initial skirmish is indecisive, the “cold-war” immune system quickly retools, and cellular reinforcements arrive in millions, precisely formulated to attack that particular invader, and programmed to recognize it should it ever return. At least, that’s how it works when the immune “army” is well-staffed, well-supplied, and well-organized. The immune system may actually respond in one of four ways to alien intrusions: • Appropriately: identifying and eliminating the problem before it threatens or inhibits life, as described above • Inappropriately: as when the immune system treats its own cells as invaders, causing what are called auto-immune disorders • Inadequately: as in cancers or immune deficiency disorders • Hyperactively: as with allergies Because there are a number of ways that the immune system can fail, there are a number of approaches that can be taken to rectify or balance the failure. Before you can help correct your dog’s off-kilter immune system, however, you have to know how it’s supposed to work. For example, you wouldn’t want to give a dog treatments that boost immune response if he’s displaying symptoms that indicate his immune system is hyperactive or attacking his own healthy tissues. In this article, we’ll describe the way the immune system is supposed to work. In the next issue, we’ll describe a number of common immune system failures – resulting from inappropriate, inadequate, and hyperactive immune activity – and explain how and where the system is breaking down in each scenario. The final part of this series will describe the most effective approaches, holistic and otherwise, to getting the immune system to act appropriately and effectively. Outside looking in In the course of a lifetime, a typical dog will confront a never-ending onslaught of disease-causing agents. As we all know, dogs seem to enjoy exposing themselves to foul things, deriving intense pleasure from activities which elicit our own most intense displeasure: rolling on carcasses, lapping up sewage, or snacking on last month’s garbage. Any pleasant walk out in the world, in short, can cause him to come home with unwanted (if invisible) visitors, including bacteria, parasites, viruses, fungi, and numerous allergens. Some invaders are more virulent or more cleverly insidious than others, but the power of an antagonist’s ability to make your dog sick depends on a number of factors. One critical factor is the amount of a given disease agent a dog is exposed to. In general, dogs who receive a higher dose of disease agent will display higher infection rates and more severe illness. The entry point of exposure is another important factor. Some viruses, for instance, won’t harm a dog at all if they are introduced to a wound (or even injected into the dog), but will cause extreme illness if breathed into the mucous membranes and lungs. Other disease agent factors include the number of other animals in a given environment (crowding), and local stress levels (including ambient temperature and humidity). Factors unique to your dog – “host factors” – also influence the odds that he will or won’t succumb to an invader’s influence. Most significant is the dog’s inherited predisposition to certain diseases. The quality of the dog’s diet, and nutritional deficiencies or imbalances can affect his ability to defend himself from disease agents. His general health and the concurrent presence of undiagnosed (and thus, untreated) illness will also affect his resistance to disease. Recognizing danger One significant task of the immune system is to identify cells, separating them into two categories: those normally present in the body, or those not normally present in the body – that is, cells that are “self” or “non-self.” Any “non-self” agent that elicits an immune response is referred to generally as an immunogen. The more foreign a cell is (that is, the more it is unlike “self”), the more likely the immune system will respond. Immunity begins in the bone marrow, where stem cells are produced. Stem cells are embryonic cells to which a series of genetic codes are attached. These stem cells are produced in enormous numbers each day, and, according to a coded genetic mechanism that scientists have yet to explain, differentiate into two distinct types of white blood cell (as well as others not directly of interest here) which populate the immune system. Stem cells mature in the thymus and spleen, and rely upon both the lymphatic system and the blood circulatory system to be transported where they need to go in the body. The first type of white blood cells, called myeloid cells, develop into the free-ranging “scout” cells which initiate a dog’s non-specific immune response. These interceptor cells, also called phagocytes, come in three known types: neutrophils (by far the most common) reside in the bone marrow and flow into the bloodstream when needed to fend off run-of-the-mill infections; eosinophils, which, generally, respond to parasitic infestations; and basophils, which trigger the release of histamines involved in allergic reactions. Related to phagocytes are the macrophages, literally, “great eater,” which often arrive first at the site of infection. First lines of defense We like to think of our dogs as entertaining, enjoyable companions. But to viruses, bacteria, and other invaders, our dogs are simply potential cites for incubation and reproduction. These foreign agents use every imaginable method of entry to infect our dogs: some are breathed into the body, while others are swallowed in food or water or absorbed through the skin. Fortunately, healthy dogs have formidable first lines of defense ready and waiting to destroy any intruders. Not many people are aware that the dog’s skin is a disease-preventing marvel, effectively shielding the body from legions of invaders. The mucous membranes and respiratory tract also contain agents that render foreign material harmless. In addition, the respiratory tract helps the body rid itself of foreign material; nasal hairs and mucous trap irritants and sneezes and coughs expel the material. Furthermore, the dog’s nasal mucous and discharge, tears, and saliva all contain cells that can neutralize invading cells. The gastrointestinal tract is similarly laden, and indeed is responsible for killing most microorganisms that are ingested. Any immunogens that are able to get by the body’s first lines of defense are met by the free-ranging phagocytes, also known somewhat generically as “scavenger cells.” Phagocytes are programmed to independently search for and destroy any invading micro-organism, no matter its identity. This response provides for what is known as non-specific immunity. Another general defense mechanism is the inflammatory response. When an injury allows bacteria and other foreign material to enter the body, the immune cells at the site of the injury cause the small blood vessels at the site to dilate, increasing the blood flow and “flooding” the area with more cellular defenders. This localized increase in blood and lymphatic circulation is responsible for the redness, heat, and swelling associated with wounds. Also swarming to the scene are the macrophages, who show up to consume dead bacteria and damaged tissues, “cleaning up” the crime scene, as it were. Macrophages also “call in some backup,” by attracting lymphocytes (another type of defender) to the site of infection, thus playing a crucial early role in immune response. Memories … of the way it was As it fights with a specific type of invader, the body sends in the second major kind of stem cells – called lymphoid cells or lymphocytes. Lymphoid cells come in two types: T cells, the so-called “smart” cells that play a number of roles, including actually orchestrating the immune response (more about that in a moment), and B cells, the memory specialists. These memory cells enable the lymphocytes to leap more quickly into action the next time they encounter the same enemy, and fight the invader with an attack designed to precisely and efficiently defeat it again. How do B cells recognize the bad guys? Their outer surfaces are covered with proteins, which defend the body by locking onto specific receptors on bacteria, viruses, and foreign bodies. These B cells are also known as antibodies. Each antibody is designed and developed to battle a specific invader. Each invader that has caused the formation of a specific antibody becomes known as antigen (as opposed to immunogen, the term for a generic invader). Among the millions of B cells circulating at any given time, only a few might “recognize” the antigens that they are supposed to, if only imperfectly. And if that “recognition” isn’t perfect – and this is the real life-saving magic of immunity – the B cells quickly mutate, ensuring precise identification of the invader by the next generation, then migrate into the bloodstream with millions of exact copies of that “marker” cell. The cellular “memory” provided by antibodies is the basis of long-term immunity against specific diseases, referred to as specific immunity or acquired immunity. In a healthy dog, however, the immune response to a serious challenge is sequential; the power of the response is calibrated by the virulence (or pathogenicity) of the antigen. Only gradually does the immune response reach the maximum effectiveness provided by specific immunity. About antibodies Humoral immunity is the result of the development and continuing presence of circulating antibodies, which occur in five known subgroups. Any imbalance among the five can cause inadequate or improper immune responses, or negate the intended protection offered by certain vaccines. The most common is defined as immunoglobulin G (IgG), which circulates in the blood and tissues, and tends to become activated only by entrenched infections of bacteria, fungi, and viruses. While much about IgG is still unknown, scientists know that it plays a crucial role in canine health. Immunoglobulin M (IgM) is the first antibody produced following exposure to an antigen. Its presence triggers the increased production of IgG. A third type, IgA, is a common source of immune malfunction. This antibody type is present in a dog’s various mucous membranes, such as the gastrointestinal and urogenital tracts, as well as the lungs. Because these surfaces are often the initial point of contact with antigens, IgA deficiencies allow deeper and more dangerous penetration of infectious agents. IgA is so important, in fact, that it has been given a separate designation, the secretory immune system. A fourth antibody type, IgE, is concentrated in the lungs, skin, and mucous membranes. It is both rare and extremely important for canine health. IgE reacts to the presence of parasites, and plays a role in the numerous allergies common among dogs. Dogs with allergic symptoms often show elevated levels of IgE in their blood. Scientists are still not certain about the function of the last known type of immunoglobulin, IgD. They know that it increases in quantity during allergic reactions to milk, insulin, penicillin, and various toxins, but they don’t know why. Cellular immunity While humoral immunity is all about protection by antibodies, cellular immunity is all about protection by T lymphocytes. There are four main types of T lymphocytes, commonly and more simply referred to as T cells. Each type is characterized, in general, by the ability to recognize and respond only to specific antigens. Cytotoxic T cells are programmed to find and destroy foreign cells which have been “pre-identified” by the scouts. They “recognize” only specific antigens, which could be viral, cancerous, or otherwise. Memory T cells will continue to circulate in a dog’s body even after an infectious episode has ended, and will respond for months or years when a particular antigen reappears. Helper T cells, among other functions, instruct immature B cells to produce antibodies against specific antigens. Suppressor T cells instruct B cells to stop an immune response. When suppressor T cells cease to function, as happens in a number of disorders, the immune system remains overactive. Only cytotoxic T cells directly kill antigens; the others, often referred as a group as regulatory T cells, direct the activities of other cells. Volumes more to know From a layman’s perspective, these are the best-known players in immune response, yet they are like chapter headings, a vast simplification of the biochemical processes involved. We’ve left a number of minor players out of this discussion. And the numerous “cells” referred to above, in fact, are molecules, cells upon cells. Antibodies are only a part of a vast immune messaging network constituted by many sub-groups and sub-sub-groups. In addition, the immune system communicates with the nervous system and with the intercellular hormonal network; in effect, the three eavesdrop on each other, and impact each other’s processes. Much can go wrong, and much is not yet understood. We’ve also simplified the discussion of disease agents, which are also intricately programmed to survive. Viruses mutate, in sometimes diabolical ways, each requiring that the immune system alter its response. Bacteria arrive in many different strains; the immune system might recognize one, but not another. Infections can even “hide” in what are called immunologically privileged sites, where the normal immune protections don’t apply . . . However, the terms we’ve defined above should help you understand the next two installations in our series on the immune system. In future issues, we will discuss some of these canine immune disorders – hypersensitivity, auto-immunity, and immune deficiency. We’ll also examine the numerous ways – both conventional and holistic – that have been devised to optimize the immune system. -By Roger Govier Roger Govier is a freelance writer from San Francisco. A dedicated owner of two shelter “mutts,” Govier has prepared articles on many of WDJ’s toughest topics, from cancer to vaccinations.

Massaging Your Dog Promotes Circulation and Well Being

Massage is a broad discipline that includes Swedish, Western, and sports massage techniques to name only a few. This series on canine massage will discuss several methodologies, but will begin by describing one of the basic Swedish massage movements and its physiological effects and benefits. Swedish massage has its origins in a system devised by Pehr Henrik Ling, a Swedish physiologist and gymnastics instructor who is considered the father of Swedish massage and also the father of physical therapy. Johann Mezger, a Dutch physician, promoted Swedish massage and is given credit for the French names of many of the movements. The five basic Swedish massage strokes are effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement, and vibration.

Effleurage (ef-flur-ahzh), the first massage movement we will consider, is probably the most frequently used of the Swedish massage strokes. It is a very basic and useful massage tool whether the intent is to relax, reduce stress, or rehabilitate. The name comes from the French word, effleurer, which means to “flow or glide” or “skim the surface.”

Physiological effects: Nourishing the tissues
Effluerage strokes have very positive effects on the body. A basic understanding of the working of the circulatory and lymph systems clarifies why effleurage is such a powerful tool.

Blood is pumped out of the heart in arteries, which, in general carry freshly oxygenated blood to the body tissues. The force of the pumping creates pressure in the arteries that helps move the blood through the vessels. The arteries branch into smaller and smaller vessels and eventually are reduced to tiny capillaries each with a diameter so small that the red blood cells must pass through in single file! It is from these capillaries that oxygen and nutrients can efficiently leave the blood stream to supply muscle, nerve, and other body cells.

After oxygen and nutrients have left the capillary network to nourish tissues, the tiny vessels pick up carbon dioxide and waste products such as lactic acid. The capillaries empty into venules, the smallest vessels in the system of veins that carry the blood back to the heart. The blood pressure in the veins is much reduced after passing through the capillary network. And the less muscular veins must rely on the contraction of surrounding skeletal muscles to literally squeeze the veins and push the blood along.

Veins have a series of valves that open as blood is forced through by the contracting skeletal muscles. Then the valves close to keep the blood from moving back in the wrong direction.

Interspersed in the capillary beds are the beginnings of tiny lymph vessels that play a major role in picking up excess fluid from between cells. These small vessels empty into larger and larger vessels that eventually dump their contents into veins, thus returning the materials to the circulatory system. Lymph vessels are similar to veins and have thin walls and a system of valves.

Go with the flow
Effleurage is always performed in the direction of the venous blood flow (toward the heart) to aid the movement of blood and lymph in the correct direction and to prevent damaging delicate vessel valves.

Varicose veins are simply veins in which valves have been damaged and cannot close tightly. Because the blood is not efficiently moved toward the heart, it pools, stretching the veins. Many veins lie very close to the surface and massage must be performed with this in mind. Effleurage against the direction of venous blood flow can potentially damage valves and create a similar problem.

This explains why effleurage of the limbs is performed from the knee toward the hip and from the toes toward the knee. This may feel unusual as hands move opposite to the direction that the dog’s hair grows, but it is important to maintain healthy vessels in the circulatory and lymph systems and to encourage the removal of wastes, toxins, and excess fluid from the region.

It is easy to see that even light to moderate pressure with effleurage warms the underlying tissues and can cause the arteries to dilate, increasing blood flow and bringing more oxygen and nutrients to the area. At the same time, moving in the direction of venous blood flow, the massage removes wastes and toxins and refreshes the tissues. Effleurage also helps dissipate swelling by promoting the movement of extracellular or interstitial fluid out of the region. In addition, effleurage has a soothing effect on the nervous system that facilitates relaxation and fosters a sense of well-being in the dog. So this Swedish massage stroke that appears so gentle, can in fact have very important health benefits.

An effleurage session
Before beginning any massage, it is important to consider why you will be massaging the dog. In other words, you need to establish your intent for the session. It may be to relax your canine friend, decrease stress, reduce swelling in some area, increase the range of motion in a specific joint or joints, or some other purpose. In any case, your overall intent should be to interact for the good of the animal. It is important to set the goal of the massage in your mind and to communicate your intent to the animal verbally or with positive images in your mind. After introducing yourself and establishing your intent, it is time to begin.

Effluerage resembles petting your dog and is sometimes referred to as petting with a purpose. Use an open hand or some part of it to glide over the surface of the coat, always moving toward the heart or in the direction of the venous blood flow (the blood returning to the heart).

The size of the dog or part of the dog you wish to address will determine the amount of contact you make with your hand. The entire palmar surface of the hand can be molded to fit the musculature of a large dog or even larger areas of a small dog. Smaller areas or smaller dogs may require that you effleurage with only one or a few fingers. Pressure should be light over thinly-muscled, bony areas such as the face, head, and legs, and moderate over large fleshy muscles.

The move can be performed with one or both hands. One-handed effleurage truly resembles a petting motion. Slowly glide one hand over the surface to be effleuraged. Your goal is generally to warm the tissues and increase circulation so movements should be slow and deliberate. Always keep the second hand in contact with the dog even if it is not actively being used in the massage stroke. This maintains a constant communication with the dog and keeps you aware of his body. For example, you immediately know if his muscles are relaxing or tensing.

Two-handed effleurage is performed by alternately stroking with one hand and then the other. As one hand is being lifted off of the dog, the second hand should be starting its stroke. Always have one hand in contact with the dog. The movements should be smooth and in a straight line. Obviously, two-handed effleurage is used most efficiently over larger areas.

Legged up
Special attention must be paid to the legs. Veins are very close to the surface and care must be taken to work with them and not against them. As noted above, you should always work in the direction of the venous blood flow. This means that the direction of the effleurage stroke is up the leg or from the toes toward the hip. One may effleurage the larger thigh muscles from knee to hip and the less fleshy part of the leg from toes to knee. When massaging from toe to knee, you may wish to lightly place one hand on either side of the leg and move up. The leg of a small dog can be encircled with fingers and thumb and effleuraged. Remember that the vessels are very near the surface, so use light pressure.

This is an excellent stroke to aid in reducing swelling in an elbow, knee, or hock, but remember to consult your veterinarian first for approval to massage a dog with a swollen joint. Never massage directly over a swollen region. Work below the swollen joint and above it with gentle effleurage. This will mechanically aid the veins and lymph vessels in the removal of excess waste materials and fluid from between the cells (interstitial fluid).

Effleurage is a powerful massage tool for puppies to seniors and all ages in between. Use it often to relax, promote a healthy coat and body, and to intensify the bond between you and your canine friend.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Mastering Canine Massage Skills”
Click here to view “Canine Massage Therapy”

-By C. Sue Furman

Author Sue Furman is an Associate Professor in the Department of Anatomy and Neurobiology at Colorado State University in Ft. Collins, CO. She is also active as a free-lance writer and teaches equine and canine massage classes. This article is adapted from material in her new book, Canine Massage, that will be available in spring 2000.

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