Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 362

Leading Leashes – Harnesses and Collars for Leash Training

By
Nancy Kerns
-
1

Do you gaze with envy at dogs who walk politely by their owners’ sides, while yours tows you down the sidewalk? Not only is it annoying to have a dog drag you on leash, it can also seriously damage your dog’s trachea and spine. Plus, dogs who strain at their leashes (and who subsequently get jerked by their frustrated handlers) are more likely to have spinal misalignments, and dogs with spinal problems have a much higher incidence of aggressive and/or hyperactive behavior problems.

WDJ has examined a number of products designed to resolve the challenge of dogs pulling on leashes. We tested several of them at an animal shelter, where there is a plethora of canine subjects inclined to pulling. We evaluated the products based on five criteria:

• Effectiveness

• The dogs’ acceptance of the product
• Humaneness of the concept
• Quality of manufacture
• Cost

One important caveat: All no-pull products are most effective when used as a temporary behavior management tool while the dog is taught to walk on a leash. Several work on an aversive (positive punishment) principal, whereby the dog’s behavior (pulling) makes something “bad” happen, in this case, discomfort (see “There’s More Than One Way.”). Unless the owner rewards and reinforces the desirable behavior, (walking politely) the dog may become acclimatized to increasing levels of discomfort, and the product loses its effectiveness.

Headcollars
WDJ Recommends:
Headcollars simply do a better job of stopping a pushy puller than all the other types of products on the market. It doesn’t seem to matter which of the three major brands you buy – the Gentle Leader, the Snoot Loop, or the Halti headcollar – all of them work well to keep the dog from pulling.

Headcollars work because they lead the dog from the head, where they lack the strength and leverage to be able to pull. A dog who tries to pull while wearing a headcollar simply has his head turned gently back toward his handler.

Although some high-strung dogs never learn to tolerate wearing something on their head and face, and some need a period of adjustment before they accept them, headcollars are the most effective and humane no-pull aid for most dogs.

All three brands are priced similarly, from $16 to $25, and come in enough sizes and permutations among the three brands to be able to fit just about every dog. Of the three brands, we like the Snoot Loop and the Halti, which offer superior fit.

The Gentle Leader is available from Premier Pet Products for $16-25, (804) 379-4702. The Snoot Loop is available from Dr. Peter Borchelt for $16-20, (800) 339-9505. The Halti is available from Coastal Pet Products for $16-20, (800) 321-0248.

 

———-

Leashes
WDJ Recommends:
WDJ’s consulting trainer tested two no-pull leashes that utilize elastic to act as a check on the dog’s pulling, but with variations in the application.

The Sof-Touch Training Safety Leash
Developed by well-known behaviorist William Campbell, the Sof-Touch is a simple six-foot nylon leash with a short piece of elastic stitched and snapped in, to create a shock-absorber “valley” in the leash. There is a 1/2-inch width available for small dogs, and a 3/4-inch width for larger dogs.

The leash administers its own correction, but because the leash itself is solid nylon, there is not nearly as much (i.e., too much) bounce-back effect as the next elasticized leash we’ll discuss. In the Sof-Touch, the elastic piece tightens gradually, muting the impact of the dog hitting the end of the leash. Even if an owner resorts to a jerk on the leash, the elastic adds the same muted effect to the correction.

Again, this product works best in conjunction with a program to train the dog not to pull by rewarding polite walking with an encouraging, “Yes!” and a treat. The Sof-Touch leash is an affordable $12 (less for quantity orders) from William E. Campbell, at (541) 476-5775.

Not Recommended:
The Elasta-Leash
Extremely sturdy and well-made, the Elasta-Leash is like a thick, four-foot bungee cord attached to your dog’s collar. When he hits the end of the leash, it literally “twangs” him back. There is no question that it checks the dog’s pulling – the harder he hits the end of the leash, the harder he bounces back.

Our test dogs included an Australian Shepherd who only needed three mild twangs to stop pulling, an adolescent Doberman mix who did well only after a reward was added to the process (an enthusiastic “Yes!” and tasty tidbit when the leash bounced him back) and a Jack Russell Terrier, who could have kept bouncing off the end of the leash ad nauseum.

Since the leash administers the twang rather than the handler, the timing of the correction is always perfect. The elastic quality of the leash reduces the force of the correction on the dog’s throat, so it is less likely to do damage to the trachea. The force of a corrective tug or jerk would also be minimized by the elastic, eliminating the possibility of an overly harsh correction from an overzealous handler.

However, the leash still administers a pretty strong correction that cannot in any way be considered a positive reinforcement solution to the leash-pulling problem. In addition, the force of the correction causes a surprisingly strong bounce-back, particularly with small dogs, which could cause whiplash injuries resulting in spinal problems. (Our trainer was so concerned about the Jack Russell Terrier that after two bounces she found herself giving slack to the dog when he hit the end of the leash so he wouldn’t bounce – which defeats the whole purpose of the leash.)

Another drawback was the surprising length to which a large dog could stretch the leash. An unaware owner, thinking she had her dog under control, might pass five feet from an elderly person, small child, or aggressive dog, only to find that the dog could lunge six to seven feet away with the leash-stretch, and knock someone down or get into a fight. Plus, like our Jack Russell Terrier (and our Dobie, until we added the rewards), if they are willing and able to keep their legs churning away, a dog can move to the end of the leash and keep straining, in which case there is no bounce.

Finally, our trainer found the foam-padded leash handle awkward. If a person simply held the end of the leash (by the handle), it was comfortable enough, but because of the smooth, bungee cord material, you can’t get a grip anywhere else on the leach, should you want to “shorten up,” for instance. In the right hands and on the right dog this could be an effective training tool, but it also contains potential for abuse. At $20, WDJ suggests readers try the other recommended products before resorting to the Elasta-Leash.

 

———-

Harnesses
WDJ Recommends:
WDJ’s consulting trainer also evaluated two brands of no-pull harness. Both work on the same principle. When the dog pulls on the leash, the harness tightens around the dog, causing a low level of discomfort. When the dog stops pulling, the discomfort stops, so the dog is rewarded for not pulling.

Holt Control Harness
The Holt Harness is made of soft, braided nylon, with sturdy hardware. An elasticized band cushions the chest to minimize rubbing. Though confusing to put on the dog the first time, once you figure it out it is simple to use. Our consulting trainer tested this device on several dogs and found that tolerance and effectiveness was high.

Unlike the headcollar, most dogs did not need an “acclimatization period.” Four out of six shelter dogs tested (of various sizes and temperaments) responded well and immediately reduced their pulling. But a stressed and hyperactive Rottweiler barely seemed to notice the harness, and the last dog, a wiry terrier mix, almost managed to escape the harness. He was effectively stopped from pulling, but minutes later, changed his tactics to include spinning and trying to grab the leash snapped to the harness. This tack was successful for him; the harness affords precious little ability to control the dog unless he pulls straight away from the handler, and his playful, exuberant spinning and jumping quickly got him tangled up. If your dog is a straight-away, enthusiastic puller, this product would probably work great.

The Holt Control Harness comes in small, medium and large, fits neck sizes 8-26 inches, and is available from most pet supply catalogs and stores for about $10. This product is worth trying, especially for dogs who don’t like headcollars.

Not recommended
Pro-Stop! Harness
This harness works on a similar principle, with a twist. The tightening occurs around the dog’s front legs – from padded legs straps – instead of around the chest. The location of the straps (above the dog’s front elbows, high in his armpits) seems like it would be very uncomfortable for any dog to just walk around in, even if they weren’t pulling.

This product was more effective on our Rottweiler, but a sweet Australian Shepherd and a submissive black Labrador were befuddled by the pressure on their legs. Sensitive dogs might get too distracted to enjoy a walk while wearing this harness.

The Pro-Stop! Harness is well-made, but more complicated to put on the dog than the Holt Harness. It’s also more expensive – $15-20. It doesn’t adjust for tiny dogs, but accommodates larger sizes (up to 42” girth) than the Holt Harness.

-By Pat Miller

Best Dog Training Approaches

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
2

[Updated June 6, 2016]

One sunny summer day, you’re taking a stroll around the neighborhood. You pass a park and notice a dog training class in progress. The instructor is standing in a meadow with a number of dogs and owners circling her. Each of the dogs is wearing a shiny chain collar. From time to time when a dog forges ahead or lags behind, the owner jerks on the leash to bring the dog back to heel position, then pets and praises it. You hear an occasional “No!” issued in a commanding tone. The dogs appear well-behaved, and all of them are doing the same thing at precisely the same time.

You continue on, and reach another park where you see another training class. This is a more ragged-looking bunch, although also well-behaved. A half-dozen dogs are walking in different directions with their owners, turning, stopping and starting up again apparently at random. The dogs are wearing regular flat collars. Some of them also wear something around their noses that looks like a muzzle, but on closer inspection you realize it is more like a horse halter. There is no jerking, but there is much treat-tossing and talking; you hear a lot of “Yes!” and an occasional, odd, clicking noise. Since you have been thinking about signing your dog up for training, you pause to ponder the differences between the two groups.

Both of these groups are beginning dog training classes. They both can produce dogs that are well-trained. The main differences between the two are the methods used in training, and the philosophies and behavior theories behind those methods.

Best Dog Training Approaches

The Dog Training Spectrum

All dog training techniques fit somewhere on a long continuum, from seriously harsh and abusive punishment-based methods at one extreme, to pure positive reinforcement at the other. Neither extreme is likely to be very practical or effective, nor will you find many trainers who recommend using only methods from one end or the other. Most trainers use a combination of techniques that place them somewhere between the two ends of the continuum. Which side of center they are on defines them as primarily compulsion-based trainers or primarily positive ones.

Within the dog training community the debate about methods is generally good-natured, albeit spirited. Hackles get raised when trainers, who tend to be an opinionated lot, disagree on the very best method to resolve a particular canine behavior challenge. But when the dust settles, good humor returns, and on at least one electronic discussion list for trainers the participants tease each other and mock themselves with self-deprecating labels like “Treat-Slinging Weenies” and “J&Ps” (jerk and praisers).

Why the diversity in training protocol? Because there are, in fact, numerous training approaches that can successfully teach a dog to do what we ask, and because people bring an infinite number of philosophical, cultural, emotional, and ideological differences to the training profession.

Variety is the spice of life, it’s true, but the number and variety of training styles available can make things a little confusing when you go looking for a trainer or an obedience class for your new dog. Would you have any idea of what an instructor meant if she told you that her program was all about “positive punishment and compulsion training?” Or if another trainer told you that he teaches only “clicker training?”

The following will provide you with definitions for these terms and more. Armed with this glossary, you’ll be able to “talk training” with people from all schools of canine behavior modification, to find a class format that works best for your and your dog.

Canine Behavioral Theories

In behavioral terms, training is known as “conditioning behavior.” We really aren’t teaching our dog any new behaviors when we train. She already knows how to sit, lie down, stay in one place, walk by our side, or come running to us from far away – when she wants to. She just may not know how to do it (or may not choose to do it) when we ask her to. Training is conditioning (or teaching) the dog to reliably give us the behaviors we ask for, when we ask for them.

Best Dog Training Approaches

In classical conditioning, as first described by Pavlov, there is an association between a stimulus and a response, or behavior. (A stimulus is something that elicits a response.) This is the famous “ring a bell, the dog salivates,” experiment that most of us learned about in high school psychology classes. Classical conditioning can generally be used to teach only very simple behaviors.

Operant conditioning is most commonly used for training, because it can be used to teach complex behaviors and behavior “chains,” a series of behaviors strung together. With operant conditioning there is an association between a behavior and its consequence. The dog does something, then something happens as a result of the dog’s behavior. There are four ways that this works. Two are labeled “positive,” which means, in this usage, that the dog’s behavior makes something appear. Two are labeled “negative,” which means the dog’s behavior makes something go away. The “something” may be pleasant or unpleasant, but it is not what the terms “positive” and “negative” refer to.

1. Positive reinforcement: The dog’s behavior makes something good happen. For example, when the dog walks next to you without pulling on the leash, she gets a treat (treat = good thing).

2. Positive punishment: The dog’s behavior makes something bad happen. Example: If the dog pulls on the leash, her neck gets jerked to bring her back to heel position (jerk on neck = bad thing).

3. Negative punishment: The dog’s behavior makes something good go away. Example: When the treat is used as a lure to keep the dog walking in heel position, she may jump up to get it. The treat is hidden until she stops jumping. Every time she jumps up the treat is hidden, until she stays on the ground as the treat is offered (treat = good thing; hidden = “goes away”).

4. Negative reinforcement: The dog’s behavior makes something bad go away. Example: A no-pull harness puts pressure on the dog’s chest as long as the dog puts pressure on the leash. When the dog stops pulling, the pressure stops. (pressure = bad thing; no pulling = bad thing “goes away”).

Compulsion Training for Dogs

Traditional compulsion-based training works on the philosophy that we have to show the dog who is boss. She must do what we say, and quickly. If she doesn’t, we immediately correct her or she will learn that she can ignore our commands. The primary tool for compulsion trainers is positive punishment (the dog’s behavior makes something bad happen, like a jerk on the leash), often followed by a treat, a pat, and or verbal praise to keep up the dog’s enthusiasm for the training process. (Note: Twenty years ago, traditional trainers abhorred the use of food treats as praise. This thinking has changed quite a bit in the last decade, though holdouts still exist.)

Compulsion training works, as demonstrated by decades of well-behaved dogs. Proponents argue that the small amount of discomfort that the dogs experience is worth the end result of a reliable, promptly responsive dog, and skilled trainers use the minimum amount of force necessary to get the job done. But this approach can be problematic with very dominant or independent dogs who don’t take kindly to being pushed and pulled around and may decide to argue back. In this case, a person taking this approach must be prepared to use enough force to get their message across quickly, and be willing to escalate the level of force if necessary. Potentially dangerous techniques like “scruff shakes” and “alpha rolls” work only if the trainer is strong enough to persevere if the dog fights back. Many owners and trainers are either unwilling or unable to use this kind of force with their dogs.

Timid, submissive or sensitive dogs may also not do well with positive punishment. Forceful corrections can cause them to melt into a puddle on the floor, and miscalculations can cause damage to the owner’s or trainer’s relationship with the dog.

Yet another concern about compulsion training is the possible damage to a dog’s throat from a standard choke chain collar, which can exert tremendous pressure on a dog’s trachea. They are not recommended for puppies under the age of six months, yet it is more and more widely accepted that starting puppies in training classes at the age of 10 weeks is ideal, in order to take advantage of a pup’s critical socialization and learning period. Prong collars reputedly distribute the pressure more evenly around the neck and are less likely to do damage, but many owners understandably shy away from using the medieval looking spikes on their tender baby puppies.

The Esteemed Clicker Training

“Clicker trainers” is a slang term for individuals who use positive reinforcement as their first method of choice, combined with an audible signal to indicate the desired behavior. These trainers operate on a different training philosophy from the compulsion trainers, preferring to get the dog to offer the desired behavior voluntarily, then mark and reward it when it does. (The marker signal, or “bridge,” can be the Click! of the clicker, a whistle, some other mechanical sound, or a word. “Yes!” is frequently used to mark a correct behavior.)

Best Dog Training Approaches

Since all living creatures tend to repeat behaviors that are rewarding, behaviors that are repeatedly marked and rewarded by a dog’s owner get offered more and more frequently. Behaviors that are ignored (not rewarded) tend to go away, or “extinguish.”

Take, for example, the puppy who wants to jump up on everyone. Dogs greet each other face-to-face, so it is natural for our dogs to want to greet our faces. Plus, when they are cute little puppies we pick them up and cuddle them in our arms, thereby rewarding them for being “up.” Small wonder that so many dogs jump on people!!

Many of the suggested compulsion approaches to correcting jumping behavior actually reward the very behavior we are trying to extinguish. When the dog jumps up, she touches us. That’s a reward. We look at her. Eye contact is a reward. We speak to her to tell her to get off. We are paying attention to her – that’s a reward! We reach down to push her away. We touched her – another reward!! For some rowdy dogs, even the time-honored “knee her in the chest” is an invitation to start a rousing game of body-slam.

The positive reinforcement approach (the dog’s behavior makes something good happen) relies on the principal that behaviors that are ignored will extinguish. But how do you ignore an enthusiastic, obnoxious canine who is leaping up to greet you nose-to-nose, inflicting multiple bruises and lacerations in the process? Just standing still doesn’t work; she gets all kinds of self-rewards by jumping all over you. Instead, we turn our back on the dog and step away. As the dog tries to come around to face us, we do it again. Turn away and step away, over and over. Sooner or later (and with most dogs this happens much sooner than you would imagine) the dog gets frustrated and confused, and sits down to puzzle out your bizarre behavior. Bingo! Now you turn toward her, tell her “Yes!” and feed her the treat from the stash you keep in your pockets in anticipation of opportunities just like this. You can also pet her and praise her. If she jumps up again, repeat the process. The theory goes that before you know it, she will have figured out that in order to get the attention she craves as quickly as possible, she needs to sit when she approaches you, not jump.

Actually, the latter approach also uses negative punishment: the dog’s behavior (jumping up) causes something good (you) to go away. Then, when she sits and you give her a treat and attention, it is positive reinforcement – the dog’s behavior (sitting) causes something good (treat and attention) to happen.

Clicker trainers use primarily positive reinforcement, but will also use varying degrees of negative punishment, negative reinforcement and positive punishment, depending on the dog and the individual trainer’s own comfort level and skill with the various methods.

Proponents of positive reinforcement training claim that a training approach based on rewards rather than punishment builds trust in the human-canine relationship and encourages the dog to think for herself and freely make deliberate choices of rewardable behavior rather than living in fear of being punished for making a wrong choice. Proponents of the approach state that dogs trained with these methods tend to be more willing to think for themselves, choose “right” behaviors, take risks, and offer new behaviors than do dogs who have been physically corrected for making mistakes.

Of course, it is not always possible to ignore a dog’s inappropriate behavior. Some unwanted behaviors are self-rewarding, destructive, or unsafe, like barking at the mail carrier, chewing electrical cords or chasing cars. Management should be the first solution. It is easier to prevent unwanted behaviors than it is to correct them. It is far easier to keep your dog properly confined in a fenced yard or on a leash than it is to stop a dog with a strong prey drive from chasing cars, cats, joggers or skateboarders.

While you manage the behavior, you also work to train a better level of control so the dog becomes more reliable around highly enticing stimuli. Another approach is the use of a “No Reward Marker” or NRM. The NRM is a signal to let the dog know she made a mistake. It is not applied angrily, just used in a neutral tone to let the dog know that the behavior didn’t earn a reward. Commonly used NRMs include “Oops,” “Try again,” or the sound “Uh!” or “At!” A properly-used NRM tells the dog that the behavior offered was not the one requested, and encourages the dog to try again.

Yet another positive behavior-correction method is to ask for (and reward) an incompatible behavior. A dog can’t lie on her rug in the living room and bark at the visitor on the front porch at the same time. If we teach her that the doorbell is the cue to go lie down on her rug and stay there, she will no longer greet your guests with her sometimes unwelcome exuberance.

The Ongoing Debate

There is no lack of debate between trainers about the effectiveness of their various training approaches. Take the case of an aggressive dog. Compulsion trainers believe that such a dog must be physically corrected for the least sign of aggression: hackles raised, intense stare, growling. This teaches the dog that the behavior is not acceptable.

Positive reinforcement trainers suggest that a better approach is to change the way the dog thinks about the aggression-causing stimulus by associating it with positive things. If the dog’s instinct is to get aggressive around children, for instance, the trainer might quickly give the dog a treat every time his canine student encounters children, so the dog will begin to associate the presence of children with “Good things happen,” and the aggression will fade. Aggressive behavior is not lurking beneath the surface, because the dog no longer thinks of children as a threat; they are now a source of good things.

The arguments between the devotees of the various training camps will rage on forever. Clicker trainers tend to believe that force-based training dampens a dog’s enthusiasm for learning, and “stifles their creativity.” Compulsion trainers often express the view that reward-trained dogs won’t perform reliably under stress. Clicker trainers say that violence begets violence, and that many dogs who are euthanized for biting were made worse by physical corrections. Compulsion trainers argue that their methods are faster, and that sometimes the use of force can cause quicker behavior changes that save a dog’s life whose owner is at the breaking point and on the verge of sending the dog to the shelter.

Deciding on what training methods to use is up to the owners, but they can look to their dogs for help in making the choice. In the end, our dogs tell us the truth. We can find pet dogs and obedience show ring competitors from both training styles that are happy, reliable, willing workers, and we can find dogs from both training styles that are poorly trained and out of control.

In my admittedly biased experience, I’ve seen better results with the non-force-based methods; yes, I, too, am a “treat-slinging weenie.” I see much larger percentages of dogs in compulsion-based classes grudgingly complying with commands or looking bored or disgruntled than I see in positive reinforcement classes, where enthusiasm usually abounds among all students in the class, two-legged and four-legged alike. And I believe that pet owners left to their own devices are more likely to follow their hearts and choose a gentle, non-violent training methods, while those owners who have been conditioned by past trainers and the pressure of competition to believe that a little “pop on the collar” won’t hurt the dog, will more quickly accept force-based training.

Now let’s go back to our imaginary stroll around the neighborhood. You’re ready to sign up for a class, and just have to decide which one. Just put yourself in your dog’s place for a moment and ask yourself which kind of class she’d prefer to go to. She’ll give you the answer.

Pat Miller is a dog trainer and freelance writer from Salinas, CA.

Answers From Experts – 07/98

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Puppy Training Dispute
Can you mediate a dispute that has arisen between me and my husband regarding the training of our four-month-old Boxer? Sam is a typically rambunctious and scatterbrained pup, but he is very eager to please. My husband is growing tired of Sam’s misbehaviors and has begun training Sam. But I think Sam is too young to absorb what my husband is trying to teach him, and I think his methods border on abuse things like jerking him around on a leash, and shaking Sam by the scruff of the neck or rolling him over onto his back and holding him down by the throat when Sam has been naughty or inattentive.

Sam will sit, lie down, and come when he is called about half the time he is asked to do these things (which I think is pretty good), but he does not always comply as quickly as my husband thinks he should. I think he is too young to expect much. What do you think?

-Kathy Merrill
Columbus, OH

We directed this question to Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and dog trainer residing in Berkeley, CA. A native of England, Dr. Dunbar is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the creator of the K9 Games, and is best known for his renowned SIRIUS Puppy Training program, which he describes in his popular books and instructional videos. 

Well, Kathy, I’m going to agree and disagree with both of you!I agree wholeheartedly that puppies should not be put to task over training, but that is not to say that you shouldn’t train them, even at an early age. I support the concept of training even very young puppies, but I must take issue with calling your husband’s methods training. Here I agree with you; those methods are utterly combative and abusive.

Puppy and dog training can and should be accomplished without any type of physical coercion or prompting whatsoever. I have successfully trained hundreds, maybe thousands of dogs off-leash using lure/reward training from puppies as young as four weeks old to old dogs. My methods work because they are fun, and the dogs want to do what I want them to do.

But I also agree with your husband that puppies need to be trained in order to live with us without driving us crazy! And, I must admit that I, too, am an absolute stickler for immediate compliance. However, that doesn’t mean to say you should push the dog around to get compliance; quite the contrary. Force only motivates the animal to dislike training and the trainer.

You can make this quite clear the next time he flips the dog on its back. Say to him, what do you want the dog to do? What is this about? Most people will answer that they want the dog to respect them. So, say, “What is the acid test of respect? That the dog is happily, reliably, and promptly compliant, right? Has this exercise taught the dog to happily, reliably, and promptly comply with your commands? No, all you’ve got is a puppy piddling with its tail between its legs and it doesn’t like you anymore! You might have proved you’re the boss, but now your puppy wants to quit his job!”

Instead of this ridiculous and pointless show of power, let’s concentrate on training the puppy to come here, sit, lie down, and roll over, and do it off-leash. The notion that you can train the puppy to do these things off-leash will be a much better testament to your power and the puppy’s respect! Let’s talk about kind, appropriate, and effective puppy training, and how it differs from your husbands methods, which are characteristic of people whom I call “trainers from the Dark Side.”

I divide training into two parts. The first part is really ESL, English as a Second Language, giving human words to doggie behaviors and actions. If you teach the animal that come means come, take it means take it, go to means go to, and the names of family members, you’ll be able to talk to your dog in a perfectly constructed English sentence, Rover, come here, and take this to Johnny, and the dog will do it. It sounds like Sam is already familiar with ESL.

After this step, the dog will know what you want him to do, but that doesn’t necessarily mean he’ll do it. So the second stage is teaching the dog to want to do what we want him to do, by associating what we want him to do with really great doggie things.

To me, the big issue in training whether the trainee is a dog, a cat, your husband, a child, your boss, or an employee  is not necessarily training them what to do, it’s teaching them to want to do what you want them to do. This is a real motivational, cognitive approach to training, which takes in as its main directive the dog’s point of view. The dog is not an object, a sort of Descartesian, mindless, mechanistic structure that gets pushed and pulled around; he’s an individual who has feelings and needs. But we can set things up so that it’s fun to work for us.

We accomplish this by rewarding him amply with praise, food, toys, or other pleasurable rewards when he does what we ask, and we set up situations that are pleasurable in themselves. For instance, Sit! On the couch! Sit! In the car! Sit! Here’s your dinner! Sit! Here’s a tummy rub! Soon, the dog thinks, Oh! Sit is a good number! Good call, coach! I can do it; put me in! And your husband will quickly get the instant compliance he wants from your puppy.

At first, I suggest rewarding the puppy every time he does what you ask. Both you and your husband should keep a few treats with you at all times, so you can make and reward dozens of requests every day. As Sam progresses, you can stretch the reinforcement schedule to something like five to one, and later still, ten to one, so that you praise each success, but only give him his treat or his toy every few times. Men love this part of the process, because they love to be irritating and powerful, and to withhold and dispense the important commodities in the world at their will! And as long as he still has the treats on his person, and dispenses one every so often when Sam does well, Sam will be sufficiently motivated to comply with his requests, quickly, every time.

Editor’s note: WDJ heartily recommends Dr. Dunbar’s books, videos, and classes as a source of detailed, step-by-step instructions for teaching your dog basic obedience off-leash, especially, his video, “SIRIUS Puppy Training,” and his book, “How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks.”

My Cocker Spaniel, Awesome Dude, is just two and a half years old, but I feel like we’ve been through a lifetime of health difficulties already. It’s frustrating, since I made an effort to find a breeder who was selling dogs that had been raised holistically. (I was told that he had never been vaccinated, but later I was told that his first show handler might have given him vaccines, and there was no way to find out for sure.) Dude is physically lovely and had been shown in his first year, but he is also a nervous wreck and wouldn’t hold up his tail after getting scared at a show. Also, he had his tonsils removed as a young dog, but again, I didn’t find out about that right away.

Right after I bought Dude I noticed that he had a terrible problem with burping, and his stools were very large. A friend suggested I give him digestive enzymes, but these made his tummy make horrible noises and made him very uncomfortable.

A veterinarian examined his digestive system with an endoscope and diagnosed him with “slight evidence of irritable bowel syndrome. He gave Dude antibiotics for three weeks, which made him ill, with terrible diarrhea. When they suggested giving Dude cortisone for his problems, I said no.Now Dude is under the care of a holistic veterinarian who uses homeopathy. She has given him one remedy, to no avail, and wants to try another remedy soon. I feel better about using this type of medicine than cortisone and antibiotics, especially for something as vague and generalized as Dude has, but I wonder what I should expect from this course of treatment. How long should you wait before homeopathy works?

-Toni Partridge
Camden, South Carolina

To answer this question, we turned again to veterinarian Pat Bradley, of Conway, Arkansas. A graduate of Louisiana State University, Bradley practiced conventional veterinary medicine for 10 years before opening an all-holistic practice five years ago.

We have several clues this dog has a pretty deep-seated disease, even though he is young and beautiful:

1) Oversensitivity to drugs, and to the digestive enzymes.

2) Tonsils removed as a pup which I assume was from chronic, severe tonsillitis. (I don’t recommend doing this since the tonsils are one of the body’s first lines of defense against bacteria and other microorganisms that enter the body through the mouth. Taking them out may improve the throat symptoms markedly, but overall I think the body is losing one of the most important lines of defense.) I would also assume that at least several rounds of antibiotics had been used before the surgery  the ultimate in suppressive treatment.

3) He had fear after getting scared at a show, which he didn’t recover from. This suggests to me that the disease is on an emotional level, as well as physical. In homeopathy an emotional disease is considered to be more deep-seated than a physical disease. This makes sense if you consider that a mentally ill person, even with no physical symptoms, often can not function in society, whereas a mentally healthy person with lots of other physical ailments can often function just fine in a relationship or a job.

What should you expect from homeopathic treatment? First, it will probably take a long time – probably several years because of the nature of the disease. I can’t tell for sure, but I suspect that disease in this dog has a strong genetic component because he was sick at such a young age even though he had been given only a limited number of vaccines, if any. I don’t mean to castigate any particular breed, but you are probably already aware that Cocker Spaniels are one of the breeds that are having to cope with the results of generations of inferior breeding practices.

Your dog’s recovery will likely take quite a few remedies, and in response to successful treatment, the disease may possibly focus somewhere on the outside of the body for quite awhile, manifesting itself, for example, in problems with the ears or skin lesions. You need to be prepared for this; even though it may seem alarming, it’s actually a good thing. While the disease is on the inside of the body where you can’t see it, it is much more likely to cause a problem that’s life-threatening. It’s much better for it to be on the outside of the body where it can be monitored, and is not likely to be life-threatening. (Although a dog with severe ear problems is not an easy thing to live with!)

The progress will most likely be gradual and slow. Sometimes it takes years. But I have often said to a client, one or two or even three years after taking on a case of this difficulty, “Let’s look back at the list of symptoms and the severity of the problems when we first started and compare it to now. Look how far we’ve come! Even though the animal is not symptom free, often only a few symptoms are left, and they are much decreased in severity than when we started, and the overall health and vitality of the animal has tremendously improved. I wouldn’t expect dramatic, fast improvement in a case like this, so patience and trust are extremely important.

My best success in these cases comes when my client and I share common goals for improved health on a long-term basis, for this helps them to be patient when improvement is not immediate as it often is with conventional drugs or surgery.

Correction:
In the May 1998 issue, we reported an incorrect address for the American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry (AMBOR), which moved recently. To contact AMBOR, write 10236 Topanga Boulevard #205, Chatsworth, CA 91311; or call (818) 887-3300.

Much Ado About Puppies

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Recently, I got to spend an hour or so visiting with a girlfriend and her five-month-old baby. My six-year-old son, Eli, who is an only child and who has been lobbying hard for a sibling to play with, accompanied me on my visit.

To my son’s constant disappointment, I’m not planning on having any more children. Nevertheless, I love babies. I couldn’t resist making a big fuss over Ben, as he put on a fantastic baby show, gurgling, laughing, and smiling a big gummy smile.

After about five minutes of sitting quietly by my side as I gushed over the baby’s beauty and charm, my son said, “Mom, I’m changing my mind. I do NOT want you to have another baby.”

“Why not?” I asked him.

“Because I want all your attention for me!” he proclaimed. When I stopped laughing, I tried to tell him he didn’t have anything to be jealous of. With a wink to my friend, I added that when he was a baby, he was far cuter than Ben, and I paid far more attention to him.

“But, Mom,” he said with a worried look. “I can NEVER be that cute again.”

Same scene, only with dogs.

Just a day later, I got to relive this scene with my dog. Rupert is a nine-year-old Border Collie. From the time that he was a puppy, Rupe has been one of those aloof and perfectly mannered dogs that doesn’t really enjoy playing with – or even being all that near – other dogs.

It wasn’t a lack of socialization; he grew up with other dogs present. But like many stock dogs, he projects the image of a guy who is much, much too busy with IMPORTANT things to consider playing with other dogs – particularly rude dogs who try to touch him. Yuck.

When other dogs approach him, he doesn’t growl or start fights, but he’s mastered the art of turning away so persistently that no matter how another dog tries, she can’t touch Rupert, much less get into his field of vision. (We like to joke that he’s muttering to himself, “I don’t see you. I DON’T see you.”)

Poor Rupert recently met his match, though. My mother came to my house for a two-day visit. To my son’s utter delight, and to Rupert’s utter disgust, she brought her new puppies with her – two super-cute 12-week-old puppies that she got from her local animal shelter.

Of course, I gushed over the puppies, too. Oh, their little puppy noses, their pudgy little puppy paws, that distinctive puppy breath! And those matchlessly amusing grunts that puppies make when you pick them up! – sort of like baby pigs, but with so much more tail-wagging appeal.

My son and I rolled around on the lawn with Grandma’s new puppies for a good 10 minutes before I noticed Rupert standing at the top of the porch stairs, distaste and jealousy etched all across his highly concerned brow. “Oh, poor Rupie,” I sympathized, and he wagged his tail weakly. Then the puppies spotted him.

Imagine germ-phobic Howard Hughes in a crowd of lepers. Rupe ducked and dodged, but they were all over him. He held his head as high as he could, trying to escape their puppy kisses; he lifted his feet like he was trying to fight quicksand.

It was no use; within seconds they had overwhelmed my dignified old dog. He snapped once, blindly, but still managing to bowl over both puppies, who yelped dramatically and ran to my mother. Poor Rupert; I didn’t have to say a word to correct him. He slunk off into the house with his tail uncharacteristically between his legs. I could just see the thought bubble over his head. “I can NEVER be that cute again.”

-N.K.

Whole Dog Journal’s 1998 Canned Dog Food Review

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Dog food is a big deal, here at WDJ. This is partly because it’s so important (all dogs eat food), and partly because it’s so complex. Regulation of the pet food industry in this country is spotty at best. Enforcement of what rules there are is practically non-existent. And nutritionists still argue among themselves about what dogs need.

Educating ourselves about what our dogs are eating is important. It’s also difficult. The pet food industry is not accustomed to scrutiny; many manufacturers feel it is simply not in their best interests to reveal everything about their foods. And because the best foods are usually made by small companies with smaller advertising budgets, it can be hard to locate their products.

We’ll be revisiting the dog food issue frequently, due to its scope, complexity, and relevance. We reviewed dry dog foods in the April 1998 issue, including a glossary of dog food ingredients, and information about the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the only organization that approves or disapproves of commercial dog foods. This month, we’re reviewing canned dog foods, and telling you about what kind of foods go into dog foods…

 

No one should ever have to see the making of sausage or laws, someone once said. Perhaps we ought to add the making of dog food to that list. The more you know about this industry, the more you want to make an appointment with your friendly neighborhood grocery store butcher, to discuss the best and most affordable cuts of meats for dogs. Because meat, as anyone who knows anything about optimum nutrition for dogs will tell you, is the food that all diets for dogs should be constructed around. (Don’t get excited if your dog is allergic to meat; he is the exception, not the rule.)

But it is inconvenient and expensive to buy, store, and prepare meat. And because dogs are considered omnivores (they eat meat and plant materials), not true carnivores (animals that eat only meat), you need to supplement their diets with bits of this and that to satisfy their nutritional needs.

And, if there’s anything humans hate, it’s inconvenience and expense, so an entire multi-billion-dollar industry has sprung up to make feeding our dogs easier. Thanks to the dog food companies, we can take care of our dog’s needs by just ripping open a paper bag, or getting out the old can opener and spooning a bunch of glop into a bowl. Voila! Fido is fed. And we paid less for that glop, in most cases, that we would have for fresh meat. So what’s the problem?

The problem is, our dogs are suffering from a vast multitude of allergies and illnesses and unsoundnesses. They develop cancers of every conceivable description. They have trouble reproducing, and they die young. They itch all over, their eyes drip, their ears exude wax, they smell awful, and they have diarrhea half the time and constipation the other half.

Could this have anything to do with the food they eat every day?

Well, let’s look at their food. What’s in this stuff, anyway?

Second-class food
It shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that dogs eat the stuff that we won’t – parts of animal carcasses that we think are unappetizing, like bones, brains, blood, intestines, ligaments, etc. After all, wild dogs eat absolutely every part of the animals they eat – the parts that offer lots of quality nutrients, as well as the parts with lesser amounts of nutrients. But many people are unaware that unless a dog food says it contains “meat,” it contains only the parts of animal carcasses that are of minimal use to the dog. Highly processed “meat by-products,” “animal fat,” “meat and bone meal,” offer almost no nutrition to the dogs that eat them. That’s why we would never recommend any dog food that contains any meat “by-products.”

But even products that utilize the “best” parts of animal carcasses – the more nutritious, choice cuts of muscle tissue and fat from chicken and other poultry, beef, lamb, and fish – are second rate, compared to what humans eat. The pet food industry interprets the term “unfit for human consumption” as “wonderfully fit for canine consumption.” This includes meat from animals that arrived at the slaughterhouse in a condition that the inspectors lightly call “4-D”: dead, dying, diseased, and disabled.” It includes meat that was too high in hormones, pesticides, or other medications to qualify for human consumption.

Not just meat discards are fed to our dogs. We also give them the discards from our grain and vegetable industries! Corn starch, wheat gluten, beet pulp, tomato pomace – these are the parts of the plants that aren’t used in human foods. It’s little wonder that most of the gigantic processed human food companies own pet-food subsidiaries: no waste!

Then, to make up for the low-quality foods and for the loss of almost all the food’s nutrients due to processing, the manufacturers add vitamins and minerals. Without this supplementation, the food would be useless to its consumers.

Looking for quality sources
Nutrition experts know the secret to health is healthy food. Dog food pioneers, including holistic veterinarians and breeders, have long known this is true for dogs, too. If your dog’s health is THE most important factor in choosing his food, then you will feed him a diet based on fresh, raw meat.

But if you can’t or won’t make your dogs’ food yourself, and yet want your dog to eat the best food you can buy, the task is finding products with the best-quality ingredients. This means whole foods, not just cast-off parts of foods. It also means meats that are human-grade. Obviously, this means the food is going to be more expensive than food made of what is essentially garbage.

Canned food considerations
Canned foods have a few inherent advantages and disadvantages. A dog who eats nothing but canned food, even if it is of the very best quality available, will require access to additional foods, treats, and/or toys that offer enough abrasive action to clean their teeth and exercise their gums. Canned food is also expensive. For these reasons, few experts, if any, recommend feeding nothing but canned food. Most suggest that canned food be offered to dogs as a “top dressing” on kibble.

On the plus side, despite the common perception that canned foods are chemical soups, they actually contain way fewer chemical additives than dry foods. Artificial colors and flavors are uncommon in the better foods, and much less common in the worst foods than they are in their dried food equivalents. Preservatives are unnecessary and rarely seen, due to the sealed, oxygen-free environment that a can offers. (Because of the lack of preservatives, canned foods MUST be kept refrigerated after opening, just like any other meat. And if a dog doesn’t finish all of his canned food immediately, the food must be discarded. Harmful bacteria can quickly develop in meat-based foods that linger at room temperature.)

The most common chemical additives in canned food are stabilizers, emulsifiers, and thickening agents. These include carrageenan gum, guar gum, vegetable gum, potassium chloride, dicalcium phosphate, and calcium carbonate.

Most other ominous-sounding chemicals are vitamin and mineral sources. Some of the most commonly seen include: choline chloride, a dietary supplement in the B complex; ferrous sulfate, a nutritional iron source; manganese oxide, a nutritional manganese source; and calcium pantothenate, a B-complex vitamin.

AAFCO approval
One of the recommendations we made when we compared dry dog foods (April 1998 WDJ) was that an owner pay attention to any prospective food’s label regarding something called “AAFCO.”

A two-tiered approval is available from the Association of American Feed Control Officials. The first level is a minimum requirement: It must be formulated to “meet the nutritional levels established by AAFCO.”

The second level is optional. For a fee, reputed to be significant, a manufacturer can submit his food to an AAFCO-designed feeding trial. The test is not rigorous; the feeding trial needs to last only six months and utilize a minimum of eight dogs. At least six of the dogs must finish the trial (not be removed due to illness or death). If the food passes, the maker may state on the food label that “feeding trials substantiated” that the food was able to “provide complete and balanced nutrition for maintenance of dogs.”

Interestingly, only one of the 30 or so dry dog foods we looked at in April used the “meets the nutritional levels” statement. All of the rest had the “feeding trials” label. We found this significant, and disqualified that one food from our consideration. We explained that since the feeding trial is not all that difficult, the fact that a company would pass on taking that test must signify that the product is inferior – that, perhaps, it couldn’t even pass that wimpy test!

But only about half of the canned foods we found – good and bad foods – boast the “feeding trials” claim. And only about a third of our favorites use the “feeding trials” wording.

One of the smaller (and high-quality) food makers explained it to us this way: “The tests cost a lot of money, and they duplicate studies that the company has already conducted. The ‘feeding trials’ statement is just not important enough for our commercial success to pursue it.”

This information about AAFCO approvals is just inconsistent enough to make us put an article about the organization on our “Future Projects” list. For now, considering the obvious quality of some of the foods being marketed without the AAFCO “feeding trials” statement, we’re going to disregard the AAFCO status of each food. For now.

WDJ selection criteria
We required the following for a product to make it into the running for our Top 10 Canned Dog Foods:

• No artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives

• No meat and bone meal

• No meat by-products (This requirement is what was responsible for eliminating popular brands such as Iams, Waltham, Science Diet, Excel, and Abacus.)

• A quality, whole meat in the top two ingredients (in cannedfoods, water is usually the first or second ingredient)

• All whole foods, not a hodgepodge of reconstituted parts, i.e.“rice,” rather than “rice flour, rice bran, brewers rice,” etc. (Thisis what eliminated Nutro and NutroMax brands)

Price is a consideration, but not one that WDJ should decide for you. We’ve converted the prices of each product in the chart below, so that you can compare apples to apples. You’ll have to choose for yourself how much you want to spend on your dog’s moist meals.

Our top 10 canned foods follow. They are not ranked, but are listed from least expensive to most expensive; when their prices are the same, they are listed alphabetically.

 

WDJ’s TOP 10 CANNED DOG FOODS

Breeder’s Choice Avo-Derm
The use of lamb broth instead of water is a nutritional plus. The maker is particularly forthcoming about the sources of his ingredients, always a good sign of quality. (800) 255-4286.

Solid Gold
How did they manage to make a canned food without added water for processing? We don’t know, but what this means to us is that we’re paying for food. And it’s good food! (800) DOG-HUND.

Hi-Tor Eno-Diet
With water in the first position on the label, you should expect the reduced protein level. But the ingredients are better than average. (800) 331-5144.

California Natural
A simple, short ingredients list, plus the maker’s guarantee that only human-grade foods are used. Hard to beat. (800) 532-7261

Canidae
A relative newcomer, Canidae can be hard to find, but is worth the effort, with several quality protein sources and chicken broth replacing water.(800) 398-1600.

Innova
An attractive-looking food, with identifiable contents. Nice ingredients list for the dog who likes veggies with his meat.(800) 532-7261.

Wysong Maintenance
The only food we examined that didn’t smell like dog food! In fact, it looks and smells yummy. The maker is devoted to quality ingredients. (517) 631-0009.

Neura 95 (95% beef)
One of the six varieties sold under this label, the “95% Beef” is guaranteed to be 95% beef. Watch out for WDJ’s “not recommended” ingredients in the other five. (800) 225-0904.

Petguard (with coleman beef)
The only dog food we’ve ever seen with certified organic beef. This top-notch food is appropriately placed at the top of the ingredients list. (800) 874-3221.

Spot’s Stew
This is wildly expensive food that we wouldn’t mind eating for dinner – seriously. The maker guarantees all ingredients are human-grade. If you want only the best, and price is no object, this is it. A new, hard-to-find product. (800) 426-4256.

 

-By Nancy Kerns

Benefits of Vitamin C to Your Dog

By
Bob Griswold and Nancy Kerns
-
18
Vitamin C for your dog offers many potential benefits.

For humans, a source of vitamin C in the diet is literally necessary for survival. Early sailors deprived of fresh foods for extended lengths of time often suffered from “scurvy,” a nasty affliction characterized by bleeding gums, loss of teeth, a weakened condition, and sometimes death. It wasn’t until the late eighteenth century that Captain James Cook, the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands, taught the British Admiralty how to prevent scurvy by adding fresh fruit or lime juice to its sailors’ daily ration of rum (thus earning them the nickname of “Limeys” that endures to this day).

In the early 1900s, ascorbic acid was isolated and identified as the nutrient that prevented scurvy. Humans, it was discovered, are among the few animals that cannot manufacture vitamin C in their own bodies, and must obtain it from an outside source (fresh fruits, vegetables, or vitamin C pills) on a regular basis in order to avoid illness.

Dogs, however, can produce vitamin C in their bodies, and because of this ability, nutritionists have long considered it unnecessary to add C to a dog’s diet. Until recently, few dog food makers added vitamin C to their products – or if they do, it was for the preservative action of the vitamin, rather than its nutritive value.

husky puppy

Vitamin C Benefits Sick and Stressed Dogs

This may be appropriate when dealing with healthy unstressed animals, but recent clinical observations indicate that when dogs are sick or stressed, they can rapidly deplete their bodies’ output of vitamin C. A 1942 study noted that dogs with skin diseases usually have very low amounts of vitamin C in their blood.

Other researchers have found the blood levels of vitamin C to be low – and even non-existent – in dogs with fevers and dogs who have exercised to their limits (sled dogs after a race, for example, or hunting dogs in the middle of hunting season).

Stress is the best-known cause of vitamin C depletion in dogs. Physical stress comes in many forms: gestation, lactation, growth, hard work (dogs used for herding, hunting, tracking, etc.), vaccinations, injuries, tail-docking or ear cropping, or illness. Emotional stress, whether caused by relocation, weaning, or demanding training, can also deplete this reserve. In fact, researchers can measure the level of stress a dog experiences by measuring the degree of depletion of the vitamin in the dog’s blood.

Conversely, many studies have found that dogs (as well as humans) that are supplemented with vitamin C show greater resistance to disease, and a better ability to recover from injuries or illness.

How Vitamin C Affects Dogs

Wendell O. Belfield, DVM, is perhaps the world’s best-known and most ardent advocate of vitamin C supplementation for dogs. In his book, “How to Have a Healthier Dog,” Belfield describes how he first came to experiment with (and appreciate) the power of vitamin C in his veterinary practice.

Following a particularly heartbreaking episode, where he was unable to save the life of a beloved family dog that had distemper, he began researching viral diseases. In the course of his studies, he came across an article about a doctor who used massive doses of vitamin C to successfully treat viral diseases such as polio and hepatitis in the 1940s. Belfield began wondering whether C could be used to combat canine viral diseases.

One day in 1965, another client came to Belfield’s office with a dog that was suffering from distemper. Belfield decided to try an injection of vitamin C on the dog, and it responded dramatically, surviving what he had been taught in veterinary school was a fatal disease for which there is no successful treatments.

Following this success, Belfield began experimenting with vitamin C treatments for all kinds of conditions in dogs. His trials and studies have convinced him of the tremendous power that the vitamin holds for dogs.

According to the “Encylcopedia of Nutritional Supplements,” by Michael T. Murray (1996, Prima Publishing), vitamin C improves immune function by enhancing white blood cell function and activity. It also increases the blood levels of interferon (the body’s natural antiviral and anticancer compound) and antibodies (proteins that bind to and destroy foreign material such as bacteria, viruses, and toxins).

Vitamin C is commercially available by itself or combined with other nutrients in a number of forms. See Which Form of Vitamin C is the Best?, below, for information about your options.

Antioxidants and Bioflavonoids

Vitamin C acts in the body as an antioxidant. Oxidation is the chemical reaction of oxygen combining with another substance, and oxidation of food by an animal is a natural process which provides both the heat and the energy needed to keep the body running. Too much or too little oxygen in the system, however, can create toxic by-products called free radicals, which can damage cell structure, impair immunity, and alter DNA codes.

As an antioxidant, vitamin C acts as both an oxygen interceptor (thus protecting the cells from being destroyed or altered by oxidation) and as a scavenger of free radicals. It not only prevents oxidation, but will, for instance, return oxidized vitamin E back to its original state by stealing an oxygen molecule away from the E molecule. Thus vitamin C is a restorative substance that inhibits tissue and collagen degeneration by working in conjunction with the other vitamins and minerals that protect the body and its systems.

As a demonstration of the antioxidant powers of vitamin C, try the following: Dissolve a 1000 milligram tablet of the ascorbic acid form in a large bowl of water. Take some lettuce that has been in the refrigerator a little too long and is getting slightly brown around the edges. Dunk the lettuce in the water for several minutes, then drain it and notice the change. The lettuce should be crisper, fresher and some or all of the brown tinge will be gone. You have just reversed the effects of oxidation! Apple or potato slices can also be dunked in vitamin C solutions to prevent browning. (Antibrowning agents sold for home canning are usually ascorbic acid powder.)

Many types of vitamin C sold also contain bioflavonoids, which are naturally-occurring plant pigments which the body can use to manufacture other nutrients. Beta-carotene, for example, is the bioflavonoid used by the body to manufacture vitamin A. Hesperidin, rutin, acerola, rose hips, citrus bioflavonoids, and bioflavonoid complex are all bioflavonoids commonly used in vitamin C products.

Occasionally supplementing your dog’s diet with grated carrots or apples, or offering him any other fresh fruit he finds palatable are great ways to enhance his bioflavonoid intake. Fresh, ripe melons and peaches are two fruits that many dogs enjoy.

Ways to Use Vitamin C on Dogs

Time and further studies are bearing out Belfield’s findings. Today, vitamin C is routinely prescribed by holistic veterinarians for a number of illnesses, including cancer, kennel cough and other respiratory infections, abscesses, and other bacterial infections. Due to its important role in maintaining the health of collagen, it appears to be especially helpful for slowing – and some say, reversing – degenerative joint disease, hip dysplasia, and spinal disorders.

The use of vitamin C as a preventative and immune booster are also celebrated. Some veterinarians suggest giving C to dogs before and after vaccination, to dogs that have been exposed to contagious diseases, to pregnant and lactating dogs, and for healthy teeth and gums.

According to Belfield, young dogs and old dogs can benefit the most from routine vitamin C supplements. Due to the extensive stresses faced by puppies and young dogs, such as numerous vaccinations, surgical procedures on dewclaws, tails, and ears, and the demands of rapid growth, he suggests that all young dogs receive C.

As they get old, dogs become less proficient at producing their own supply of vitamin C, and more in need of antioxidants. Administering vitamin C to even very old and feeble dogs, says Belfield, can reinvigorate and strengthen them.

Vitamin C Dosage for Dogs

The average dog normally produces about 18 milligrams of vitamin C per pound of body weight per day. Therefore, for a dog that is free of clinically significant symptoms but is experiencing unusual stress, supplementation with about that much C per day appears be a conservative maintenance dosage. (About 500 milligrams for a 28-lb. dog daily.) To increase absorption, veterinarians recommend splitting the total daily dosage into several feedings during the day.

However, many holistic veterinarians routinely suggest maintenance doses that are three to four times that amount. They explain that modern, domestic dogs need more vitamin C than the theoretical “natural” dog, since their bodies must deal with so many challenges: stress, pollution, chemicals and pesticides, and poor diets, to name a few.

Too much vitamin C, especially if given in one dose, will cause diarrhea in dogs. What amount is too much varies from dog to dog, so, when administering the maximum amount of C for a therapeutic (not just maintenance) dose, many veterinarians will suggest that you increase the dose in 100-500 milligram-per-day increments until the dog develops diarrhea, then reduce his daily dose to the previous day’s dose. (This is often referred to as dosing to “bowel tolerance.”)

Individuals dogs may be more or less tolerant of vitamin C supplements, and their tolerance may change with environmental conditions. For instance, a dog that is experiencing great stress may tolerate 4,000 milligrams without diarrhea, but develop the condition as the stress is removed. The owner’s awareness of the quality of the dog’s stool is critical to appropriate dosing.

The type of illness being treated should also be considered when determining the dose. Some guidelines published by holistic veterinarians include:

Richard Pitcairn, DVM, “Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.” Pitcairn suggests giving 100-500 milligrams (based on the dog’s size) of vitamin C daily to dogs that are exposed to unusually high amounts of pollutants.

Cheryl Schwartz, DVM, “Four Paws, Five Directions: A Guide to Chinese Medicine for Cats and dogs.” Schwartz suggests giving vitamin C to dogs with a variety of illnesses, including upper respiratory conditions (small dogs, 125 to 500 mg. twice daily; medium dogs, 250-1,500 mg. twice daily; large dogs, 500-1,500 mg. twice daily), arthritis (to bowel tolerance), infected ears (small dogs, 250-500 mg. twice daily; large dogs, 500-1,000 mg. twice daily), and skin allergies (small dogs, 125 mg. twice daily; medium and large dogs, up to 750 mg. twice daily).

It’s important to remember that a healthy, happy dog with a quality diet and little stress probably has no need of supplementation with vitamin C. However, if stress, illness, or age causes a dog’s need for vitamin C to outstrip his ability to produce it, supplementing him with C is a sensible choice.

What Form of Vitamin C is the Best?

Assuming you have a dog that would benefit from vitamin C supplementation, what options are there? Many vitamin C supplements labeled and sold specifically for dogs use ascorbic acid, the only naturally occurring form of vitamin C.

Unfortunately, among all the vitamin C supplements on the market, ascorbic acid has the poorest absorption rate by the body. However, the salt forms of vitamin C, known as ascorbates, are easily absorbed in the intestinal tract of humans, dogs, and other mammals.

Don’t like the idea of a vitamin C supplement for your dog? You can find a great list of whole food sources of vitamin C here.

As the information below explains in detail, for dogs, the sodium ascorbate form of vitamin C appears to be the best choices in terms of cost, bioavailability, and effectiveness. Before you start shopping for a vitamin C supplement, it is important to be aware of the differences between the various forms.

Ascorbic Acid

This is the naturally occurring form of vitamin C. A tarttasting organic acid (pH 2.5-3.0) in crystalline form, this is the form of vitamin C most frequently used in vitamin C pills for humans. When given in high concentrations or in single large doses, however, ascorbic acid is not efficiently absorbed by dogs or humans and can cause diarrhea. Using smaller doses several times a day can alleviate this symptom. Most dogs find powdered forms of ascorbic acid to be unpalatable due to its tartness.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Although vitamin C is considered a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble form called ascorbyl palmitate is also available, and is thought to act synergistically with other antioxidants (see, Antioxidant and Bioflavonoids, above). Although oral administration of this form is three times more efficient than the ascorbic acid form, ascorbyl palmitate costs about six times as much as ascorbic acid.

Calcium Ascorbate

Vitamin C can also come in the form of salts called mineral ascorbates (compounds formed by replacing all or part of the hydrogen ions of an acid with one or more metallic ions). These forms of vitamin C – known as calcium ascorbate and sodium ascorbate – are easily absorbed anywhere in the human intestinal tract and in that of most mammals. These are thought to be the most gentle (buffered) forms of vitamin C and cause the fewest side effects such as diarrhea or heartburn.

Calcium ascorbate, a pH-neutral, slightly bitter powder, is one commercially available mineral ascorbate. Many health practitioners are of the opinion that calcium ascorbate gives the best results in the relief of arthritic symptoms. It is also considered by holistic veterinarians to be the most beneficial form of vitamin C for use in horses.

Ester C Calcium Ascorbate

Most of the results which have been published regarding the use of vitamin C in horses and dogs have been in trials using a patented form of C known as Ester C calcium ascorbate. Like the pure forms of calcium and sodium ascorbate, Ester-C is nonacidic with a neutral pH and does not cause gastrointestinal upset. This product is the result of a unique method of manufacturing mineral ascorbates, which yields what are called metabolites as well as the minerals and the ascorbates. Thus, Ester C calcium ascorbate is a combination of calcium, ascorbate, and metabolites (including a substance known as threonate).

Pure calcium ascorbate is simply calcium and ascorbate. Pure sodium ascorbate is sodium and ascorbate. When these and all other forms of vitamin C are processed in the body, metabolites (including threonate) are naturally occurring products. The patent holder of the Ester C brand, Intercal Corporation, claims the presence of metabolites, especially threonate, in their product before intake into the body increases cellular absorption and longevity of vitamin C in the bloodstream.

However, these observations were made when the product was compared to ascorbic acid. The company has not released results of studies (if there are any) comparing Ester C directly to the pure forms of calcium and sodium ascorbate.

Sodium Ascorbate

Another readily available and easily absorbed salt is sodium ascorbate, a pH-neutral granular powder with a slightly saline taste. Sodium ascorbate is easily absorbed by the body, and studies have also shown that it stays in the system twice as long as the acid form. Sodium ascorbate is the only form of vitamin C approved by the FDA for intravenous injection in humans. It is also the preferred form for oral megadoses in humans because it does not irritate the intestinal tract and the excess is easily eliminated without harm to the kidneys.

Dr. Wendell Belfield, the leading advocate of vitamin C supplements for dogs, vastly prefers using this form of the vitamin for dogs. Belfield says his own tests have proven it to be the most effective form; he manufactures and markets C supplements for pets (Mega C Plus and Mega C Drops, which utilize sodium ascorbate.

Choose the purest product at the best price:

Once you decide on which form of vitamin C you want, the least expensive sources are usually mail-order distributors that sell vitamins for human consumption. Here are some tips for comparing product content and price:

1) For the best price on the active ingredient, purchase “pure” vitamin C products. Skip products with added ingredients such as bioflavonoids and vegetable fillers. Bioflavonoids may be listed as bioflavonoid complex, rutin, hesperidin, rose hips, and acerola (see Antioxidants and Bioflavonoids, above).

2) Look for product listed as USP pure. USP stands for United States Pharmacopoeia. This refers to a list of standards established by the Food and Drug Administration that governs methods of manufacture and degree of purity for products that are designated as pharmaceutical grade.

3) For ease in feeding dogs, use a powder or crystal form. On average, one teaspoon of pure powder or crystals contains five grams (5,000 milligrams) of vitamin C, so an average maintenance dose for a healthy dog will be 1/8 – 1/4 of a teaspoon. Tablets are sometimes less expensive, but you will have to grind them up or find a way to get your dog to swallow them.

4) To compare prices you need a standard unit to compare. This can be difficult, since manufacturers sometimes use different units of measure, but grams are the most common. You’ll have to do some converting to be able to compare prices, and obviously, this will only be applicable to the pure forms of the vitamin (those not mixed with any other nutrients or fillers).

Moving On After Losing an Older Dog

By
Linda Goodman
-
48

The occasion of getting a new puppy or dog should be just as joyous as bringing a much-wanted and long-anticipated baby into the world. In the best of possible worlds, the dog’s new family is welcoming, loving, and eager to learn as much as possible about and share as much as possible with the latest addition to the family. The transition almost always goes smoothly when the family is experienced with dogs, and already knows about providing healthful diets and gentle teaching for their canine companions. Every so often, however, I meet very knowledgeable and caring dog people who experience undue conflict and tumult while they are getting used to their new dogs. When I know that the people involved know how to properly take care of a dog – that the problem is not simply a lack of knowledge about how to help the new dog succeed in the household – I suspect that the problem is not with the new dog. Often, I’ve found, the issue is actually one that was never resolved concerning the family’s last dog.

The Last Dog Was the “Best”

old corgi

Usually, we expect to outlive our dogs. Though we don’t generally think about it when we bring home a new puppy, we know that he’ll eventually grow into an adult, and then a senior dog. By the time his muzzle and legs turn white and he moves a little slower, our feelings for him will be without compare. After a lifetime together, he will become “the best dog” we’ve ever known. By the time our old dogs pass away, most of us have forgotten that there ever was a time when our “best dogs” weren’t perfect companions. We forget the trying days of puppyhood, when a few of our favorite possessions get chewed up, and when accidents happen on our rugs. We forget about how much time it took us to habituate the young dog to riding peacefully in our cars and playing non-destructively in our gardens. What we tend to remember is how wonderfully behaved our old friend was, how easy it was to spend time with him, how he always knew how to make us happy. So when we get a new dog or puppy, it’s difficult not to make comparisons. But these comparisons will interfere with binding a relationship and honoring the gifts this new soul brings into our lives. Remember, it will take some time for the newcomer to walk in the idealized old dog’s footprints.

Avoiding Comparisons Between Pets

To avoid comparisons, some people choose a dog who is totally unlike the previous pet so they will not be constantly reminded of their loss. Others prefer to have one who resembles their previous dog because the look makes them feel warm inside. Whatever you choose to do, be open and honest with your new dog. Tell him each and every day how special he is and how honored you are to be his person. Let him know about the dog who died; tell him that your tears may flow sometimes with memories but that does not mean you will not be able to appreciate the gifts he has brought to share with you.

Unfinished Mourning

Another mistake people make is to obtain a dog before having completed the mourning process for their old dog. Sometimes people have difficulty with the mourning process. They cannot let go of the memories and are devastated by the loss. Bach Flower remedies can help the bereaved in these cases. Talking and being with people who understand can also help the process; professional grief counselors and pet grief support groups can work miracles. However, no one should ever be rushed through this process. Some well-meaning friends may say “It’s time to move on, you’ve got to get on with your life, get over it – he was just a dog, why not just get another dog,” etc. A person in this position should pay no attention to these types of comments. Some of us love our dogs very deeply, and we bond with them in special, unique ways. For us, dogs are not replaceable. We need time and understanding to heal from the loss before we will be ready to love another dog. It’s very important that no one be allowed to force a new dog on someone else. A spouse, friend or well-meaning relative may try to buy a puppy to “help you forget.” They should be politely told that we will never forget and we do not want to forget. We will remember our lost dog all of our lives and eventually, we will remember him or her with great joy. Then, when the time is right, we would like the luxury of being chosen by our next dog!

Case in Point

Once a woman came to my puppy teaching class with an eight-week-old terrier-mix puppy. She said she wanted help with what she characterized as “all the usual puppy problems,” but from the very first puppy class, I could tell she was dealing with more than “all the usual puppy problems.” She seemed very detached from her puppy. She never made eye contact with him and almost seemed afraid of him. The puppy, too, seemed to be having trouble with the relationship. He made a few attempts to engage her, and then gave up and decided it was more fun to play with the other puppies. I just figured they were getting used to each other and after a week of working with her puppy things would improve. Boy, was I wrong! When she came back the following week, it was evident to the whole class that something was not right. As she entered the teaching center, the puppy strained to get away from her and wanted nothing to do with her. She actually seemed relieved that the puppy had the other dogs to play with. She was content to totally ignore him during the entire class. As I worked with the class, I surreptitiously watched her and her puppy, and thought about how I could best help the emotionally distant duo. As the session ended, I asked the woman if she could stay after class for a few minutes. I told her that I thought she had chosen a wonderful puppy. He was cute, funny, playful, and had the potential to be a great companion dog. He was very smart, very social, and really wanted to be friends with everyone. I then asked her how she felt about the pup. Her response was unemotional and non-committal. She said she liked the dog well enough but he was simply not the same as her dog who had died. Immediately the picture was clear to me. She was comparing the puppy to a deceased dog who had lived with her a very long time. Plus, she had not chosen to get the puppy. Her dog had been dead less than a month when her husband brought home the pup “to help her get over the loss.” She wanted to like the puppy, but felt guilty, as if she were betraying the memory of her former dog. Every time she looked at the new puppy she remembered the other dog and could not shake her feelings of sadness and guilt. We sat and talked for a while. I asked her to tell me a little about her old dog and she cried and reminisced about him. I could tell that they had loved each other deeply. After our talk, she said she felt a little better. I then told her not to worry about the homework assignment I had given the rest of the class because I had a different and special assignment for her.

Healing Ceremony

I told her to go home and light candles and incense in memory of her dog. Then I wanted her to curl up somewhere comfortable with her puppy and tell him all about her old dog. I wanted her to tell the puppy several of the memories that made her cry and several memories that made her laugh. She was to share as much of the joy and sorrow she had shared with her old dog with this brand new little dog. I told her she might feel foolish doing this but it was important. It was immediately evident the next week when they returned to class that a miracle had happened. They came in and were bonded with each other. You could see it in their faces. The two of them actually looked physically different. Everyone in the class remarked about the change. They proceeded to become the best students in class, due to a powerful connection between them. Their love for each other was evident in every interaction they shared. After class, the woman came up to me and hugged me and thanked me for the advice I had given her. She said she went home and did everything I had suggested. She said she didn’t feel silly, and that she had laughed and cried buckets of tears. Afterward, as she hugged and kissed her puppy, she realized for the first time how adorable his face was. Nothing has been the same since then!

You’ll Be Ready Only When You’re Ready

Some people get very stuck in the mourning process. They cannot get over the loss and vow they will never have another dog. They say the heartache of losing a dog is just too much to bear and they never want to go through that kind of pain again. When I hear people talk that way, it hurts me to think of all the devotion, joy, and love their dog gave to them and all they can remember is the pain of the final moments. After all, in the grand scheme of things, death is just a brief moment. It shouldn’t erase the wonder of a lifetime of giving. It seems to me, the greatest honor we can pay a deceased pet is to mourn the pet, heal during the process, and then be ready to love and learn from another dog. This says that having a dog is a worthwhile experience. The pain of losing this dog should not overshadow the joy of having a dog in our life. When a dog leaves this life, allow yourself the time and luxury of a mourning period. There is no manual to tell you how to mourn or how long. You will mourn until you are finished with the process. When you find you are laughing or smiling at the memories of your deceased pet instead of crying at the mere thought of him, when you’re looking in pet shop windows and in the pet column in the classified ads, stopping to look at the free puppies in front of the supermarket, or just feeling that there is now room in your heart to love a new four-legged wonder, then you are healed. If you let your new dog share your truth, your love, and your heart, you’ll find that he’ll very quickly become your new “best dog.” Linda Goodman operates PORGIE Teaching Center in Riverside, CA.

Shopping For a Veterinarian

By
Susan Eskew
-
0

When shopping for a veterinarian, how can you tell whether one doctor or another will be the best practitioner for your pet?

Well, it’s a trick question; there isn’t any way to guarantee that any particular individual is the best.

The emphasis should be on the first part of the question: shopping. Only through rigorous research can we possibly find the best-equipped facilities, with the most receptive staff, and the most communicative and skilled veterinarians. It may be possible to luck into finding the ideal veterinary practice by picking a name out of the yellow pages, but with your dog’s health (and sometimes, his life) depending on your decision, it’s best not to leave your choice to chance.

We’ve compiled a list of points to consider when conducting a search for a top-notch veterinary care provider for your dog. We recommend taking some time, at your earliest opportunity, to call around and visit a couple of clinics now – you won’t have time if you wait until your dog is ill. You should be looking for the following:

A clean, organized practice
If you can afford the time, pay a quick visit to your prospective veterinarians’ offices. Generally, even the reception area will reflect the quality of the service that the professionals will provide. Does the building look well cared-for, with clean windows and floors? Is the receptionist happy and helpful, and quick to greet you and your dog? Is information about services and prices readily provided? Do the veterinary assistants seem cheerful and glad to be there? If possible, ask whether you can see more of the facility. Not only should the reception and examination rooms be clean, well-lighted, and well organized, but the treatment and surgery areas, and the kennel and cage room should be, too.

“People” doctors and veterinarians alike operate under similar pressure to provide snappy yet thorough service. No one likes to waste time in a doctor’s office, but no one likes to feel rushed out of the office without satisfactory answers to their medical questions, either. You probably won’t be able to ascertain whether or not this kind of service is available at a clinic without actually utilizing their services. However, if after choosing a clinic, it seems that the practice is consistently running behind schedule, you may want to choose another. Efficiently run clinics should be are able – with only occasional exceptions – to get you and your dog into an examination room close to your appointment time, and adjust their schedules to handle emergencies without disrupting the entire practice for the entire day.

Good communication skills
Veterinarians tend to be busy, but if you can arrange to meet the veterinarian for even just a couple of minutes, you should be able to determine whether he or she is someone you could communicate with. It’s important that the veterinarian will be willing and able to explain a disease process or a treatment in terms that you can understand.

As the owner of an 85-pound mischief-prone Labrador told me, “I look for someone who can and will answer all my ‘dumb questions’ and remain patient while I try to gain an understanding of what’s going on with my dog. My dog has been to the veterinarian’s office for the regular shots and health exams, but also for spaying and for injuries suffered when she tangled with a car. I was worried about her anesthesia, and wondered about pain control after her surgeries. Our veterinarian was accessible and easy to talk to. I was glad to get good instructions for home wound care, and how to enforce rest for my dog’s optimum healing.”

The office staff, too, should be able to talk to you knowledgeably – never condescendingly – about the details of your dog’s care and treatment.

Accessible doctors and staff
You should know – before you have need – exactly when your veterinarian is and is not available. Obviously, you also need to know who you should call, or where you should go, in the hours your veterinarian is not available. (Any emergency clinic you might have to utilize to help your dog should also meet with your criteria.)

Accessibility entails more than just office hours; it also concerns whether or not you can actually reach your veterinarian or an assistant to ask questions about your dog’s condition and care. If you leave a message for the veterinarian, will someone from the office return your call promptly?

If your dog has to spend a night at the clinic, ask whether someone is present all night, and whether there a number you can call to check on your dog’s condition in the middle of the night if you wanted to. A surprising number of clinics do not employ all-night staff, a fact that should be known in advance by the owners of any dogs with separation anxiety issues. If your dog has to spend a night at the clinic, make certain you ask about night staff.

Flexible, open-minded healers
The very best doctors realize that their patients can be healed in a variety of ways. If your veterinarian will discuss only one treatment option with you, he or she is either professionally “stuck,” mired in out-dated medical theories and techniques, or too busy to provide individualized care. Either way, this professional is not a good prospect.

Increasing numbers of dog owners are seeking out veterinarians who have experience and expertise in complementary healing modalities, but the fact is, these professionals are still in the minority. A good alternative may be employing a traditional, local veterinarian who will discuss your dog’s case with a consulting complementary specialist at your request. Ask your veterinary candidates what they think about using complementary care.

Experienced, gentle handlers
A friends of mine once took her kind and gentle (and admittedly slow to respond) Rottweiler puppy, then about six months old, to a veterinarian’s office for a routine health examination and vaccinations. An assistant entered the exam room and explained that she would take the dog’s vital signs. She then commanded the pup to lie down, and when it looked at her blankly, she grabbed the dog roughly by the scruff of its neck and threw it to the ground, pinning it there while she began to explain to my stunned friend the “dangers of a large disrespectful dog.”

You can’t begin to count the number of ways that the assistant erred. Suffice it to say that the clinic lost that client, and that my friend will repeat her story about the assistant any time the subject of that clinic comes up among her dog-owning friends.

The people who work in veterinary clinics vary tremendously in their background, temperament, education, practical training, and goals. Better clinics will hire more experienced and knowledgeable staff, and pay them enough to stay. This may result in somewhat higher costs for care and treatment at those clinics; it’s worth the price. When it comes to sick, vulnerable animals, the difference between indifferent or aggressive handling and gentle, attentive, and caring handling, can literally make the difference between life and death. And even if your dog is only visiting the clinic for routine health care, you want him to feel as positive as possible about his experience there.

Ask the receptionist about the staffers at the clinic; do they have specialized training or credentials in dog training or veterinary assisting? And observe the staff carefully; do they seem calm, caring, and competent?

Specialized clinics
While there is certainly a benefit to using the same doctors often enough that they recognize and are familiar with you and your dog, there may be situations where you would benefit from using several clinics to meet your needs. For instance, you might visit a low-cost clinic for puppy vaccinations, a state-of-the art clinic with a built-in lab and the latest in anesthesiology equipment when your dog requires surgery, and a holistic practitioner when trying to boost your dog’s general wellness.

Many veterinarians have additional interest, training, or expertise in certain types of medicine. Some veterinarians are Board certified in specialized care like dermatology, reproductive health, dentistry, or orthopedic surgery. What kind of services your veterinary candidates offer will partially dictate what kind of equipment they have at their disposal and, to a certain extent, might even affect the prices of their services.

For instance, reproductive health (spaying and neutering) clinics provide a practical example of efficiency; generally, the staff and doctor are very well-versed in doing the surgeries, yielding a streamlined process and a lower overhead for better pricing.

At the other extreme are veterinarians who offer emergency care. These professionals require an array of diagnostic equipment, such as radiograph (x-ray) machines, ultrasound, magnetic resonance imaging, cat scans, and a well-equipped laboratory. Very often, the assistants at emergency clinics are the most highly trained.

Sometimes, economics will dictate your decision, especially if your dog requires only simple, routine care. Most of us would really rather not pay the overhead costs for a full-service hospital when we are simply in search of a required rabies vaccination. Full-service clinicians bristle at the low prices charged by minimal-care walk-in clinics, but they should understand that it may be prohibitive for some dog owners if they have to pay for an office visit and physical exam every time they cross the threshold.

NOTE: Recently, more and more veterinarians have been selling their private practices to a company that reopens the practices as part of its “network” of veterinary health care providers. The chain then manages the clinic.

This model enables the participating practices to maximize their efficiency (and profits), but just as with managed-care networks for humans, it may result in less personal care. If you have a dog with a complicated health history or a condition that requires extended care and diagnosis, you may want to avoid the “chain” veterinary practices. While the individual staff members and doctors may be more than competent, your dog would probably benefit from consistent attention from a doctor who is intimate with his medical history and reactions to various treatments.

Credible qualifications
When it comes to alternative care or non-traditional complementary therapies, the practitioners’ training and experience is of paramount importance (see “What’s the Alternative? How to find qualified practitioners of complementary healing arts,” in the August 1998 issue of WDJ). Look for doctors who are certified with the national association for that modality, for instance, the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS) for acupuncturists, the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (AVH) for homeopaths, and the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) for chiropractors. Most holistic veterinarians are associated with the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (AHVMA, pronounced “Ahh – v -ma”). Each of these associations offers continuing education for its members.

A lack of credentials with one of these associations does not mean a practitioner is unqualified, but it may mean that he is operating in the outer reaches of his chosen field. Talking to other clients in the waiting room about their experiences with the veterinarian or asking for references is always a good idea, but it should be considered mandatory in this case.

Caring For Paraplegic Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Nita was a standout among her littermates, clearly the most vivacious of a lively bunch. Her owner, Lyn Dodd, still chuckles at the thought of her favorite dog, a happy companion in her customary shotgun seat, riding around in Dodd’s pickup truck.

“She traveled with me everywhere, on long hikes in the woods, on planes on the seat next to me, we went everywhere together,” remembers Dodd. “I don’t have children; she was like my kid!”

It wasn’t until Nita was 14 1/2 years old that she began having health problems. “One day I noticed that Nita was sitting in an odd way. Her hind leg looked funny the way it sprawled out to one side, her rump rolled under. I also noticed that she was not putting weight on one foot; that leg seemed weaker than the other,” Dodd describes.

Because of her advanced age, and because it was winter, Dodd thought her little dog must be suffering from arthritis, especially since she also had a slight limp in the morning that went away as the day warmed up. Her veterinarian agreed, and prescribed some herbal remedies for arthritis.

At about this time, Dodd moved to Bend, Oregon, which at 3400 feet elevation, has a dry climate, which is thought to ease arthritis pain. Nita’s limp, however, grew progressively worse. “It seemed as though she was losing feeling in the leg,” Lyn recounted, “yet, her skin, coat, eyes, and teeth looked as good as ever, her attitude was really good, and she never indicated that she was in any kind of pain.” As time went by, Nita’s condition developed into a full-blown mystery.

Dodd took Nita to several veterinarians, but none were able to definitively diagnose Nita’s problem. One doctor suggested that Nita suffered from a herniated disc, yet could not recommend surgery to repair the disc, due to the potential of paralysis as a result of the surgery. Dodd took Nita to an animal chiropractor for therapy, but no lasting change was evident following several spinal adjustments.

The diagnostic breakthrough came as a result of a visit to the Veterinary Referral Clinic in Portland, Oregon. Following the most complete physical examination and history Dodd had ever seen performed on a dog, as well as extensive urinalysis, serum chemistry and blood panels, the ultimate diagnosis was Cushing’s Syndrome, which was contributing to the general deterioration of Nita’s spinal column.

This Syndrome, also known as hyperadrenocorticism (HAC), is caused by excessive amounts of cortisol in the bloodstream. The majority of naturally occurring HAC cases have too much cortisol being secreted by the adrenal cortex due to a tumor in the pituitary gland at the base of the brain. Fewer dogs have excessive cortisol levels due to tumors in an adrenal gland, several of which are located next to the kidneys. Cases can also be caused by overzealous or long-term administration of cortisol-containing medications. (Some of these include certain skin creams, eye drops, and ear medications.) HAC is more common in some breeds, notably, in Boxers, Poodles, Dachshunds, and Terriers, though any breed can be affected. It is also more commonly diagnosed in middle-aged and older dogs, since the onset of symptoms is so gradual that owners often don’t notice the changes resulting from increased cortisol production, or they may confuse the symptoms with those of the normal aging process.

Classic symptoms of HAC include excessive thirst and hunger, elevation of liver enzymes, hair loss on the dog’s trunk, and a pendulous, distended abdomen. (The bloated look can be caused by a thinning of the skin, weakening of muscles, and enlarging of the liver.) Rarely, but occasionally, muscle dysfunction and weakness are manifested by a stiff gait.

But Nita hadn’t been exhibiting any of the classic symptoms. Her skin and hair always looked great, and she only gained weight gradually as she became more sedentary. It took time, and a combination of veterinarians and tests to diagnose the pituitary-triggered type of Cushing’s.

What to Do for a Paralyzed Dog

Predictably, there are a multitude of treatments for such a complex illness, and Dodd directed her veterinarians to administer all the ones she felt would help the little dog, omitting those with the biggest risks to her health.

With pituitary-dependent Cushing’s, the current treatment of choice among allopathic veterinarians is a drug called O.p’-DDD, or Lysodren, which destroys the adrenal gland, followed by administration of cortisone and prednisolone to replace vital cortisol function. Nita tolerated this treatment quite well, eating and drinking perhaps just a little more than usual, yet remaining regular and continent as always. The treatment effectively stopped the progression of the Cushing’s Syndrome, though it couldn’t reverse the damage done to Nita’s spine.

The diagnosticians at the Veterinary Referral Clinic also performed a myelogram, a picture of the spinal column nerves achieved through dye injection and radiographs. The myelogram revealed a general deterioration of Nita’s spinal column, but no compressions or lesions that could be improved with surgery.

To augment the best of what traditional medicine had to offer, Dodd tried an array of non-traditional therapies to treat her terrier’s spinal problems. She used several herbal supplements, and found magnetic field therapy (which uses weak, pulsing magnetic fields to stimulate healing biological reactions) to be useful, though she had to curtail this treatment due to the long drive to the therapist. “You could see Nita felt and walked better right away after each treatment,” Dodd described, “but as the months rolled into winter, the 3 1/2-hour drive each way over mountain passes twice a week was becoming more dangerous with snowy roads, and the treatment results were not as long-lasting as we had hoped.”

The Right Option for Nita

Another year and a half passed as Dodd sought out and implemented every beneficial therapy she could find. As a result of all these ministrations, Nita’s attitude and energy level was great, and her teeth, eyes and coat looked terrific – and yet her hind end kept getting worse. As the plucky little dog’s mobility decreased, so she had to drag herself around the house and yard, Dodd increasingly felt pressured to end Nita’s struggle and put her to sleep. But given her deep connection with the dog, and due to Nita’s own optimistic outlook, Dodd couldn’t bring herself to call it quits. Instead, she kept looking for help for Nita.

“Nita helped me survive some very hard times in my life – a divorce and then a bout with cancer; it was the least I could do to give her a good quality of life in her old age. For all the love and companionship she’d given me, I was not ready to give up on her yet,” said Dodd.

Since all of Nita’s functions, save mobility, were working well, Dodd started talking out loud about inventing a cart for her companion’s hind end. Then an acquaintance mentioned she had already seen such a device, and gave Dodd the name of the company: K-9 Carts. Dodd located and called the company immediately.

Cruising in Her Cart

Dodd found the people at the K-9 Cart Company, located in Big Sky, Montana, very helpful. They immediately sent her a packet of information about their carts for paraplegic dogs and cats, and when it arrived, Dodd was impressed with the illustrations and operating instructions for the carts. Their representative gave Dodd detailed instructions on how to precisely measure Nita for a cart, and she sent in an order.

When it arrived, Dodd followed the instructions for the cart’s use, putting Nita in the device for just a few minutes each session, gradually building up length of time the terrier spent in the cart. Nita took to the rig right away, and quickly exhibited a new lease on life!

“At first, the time she spent in the cart was like therapeutic rehabilitation, with Nita’s rear legs gaining strength from her time in the cart, a little more each day,” Dodd described. “But soon, Evil Knieval had nothing on Nita! My neighbor built a ramp over the front steps of my house, and Nita would fly in and out and around the house.”

The worst hazard Dodd encountered with the cart was when Nita would seem to forget she was in the cart, and she would bang into a doorway or getting stuck when she tried to walk under an ottoman. Dodd would flinch when Nita would occasionally launch off the steps, competing with Dodd’s other dogs to chase a ball or a squirrel, but Nita was unstoppable. Once again Dodd could take Nita on long, enjoyable walks in the woods along with the other dogs. If the elderly dog grew tired on a long walk, Dodd would sometimes take her out of the cart and carry her in a special backpack, letting her rest. She says Nita would “let me know she was ready to go again by wiggling around in the pack; I’d let her out and then off she’d go again in the cart!”

A Wonderful Last Year

Finally, however, at age 17 1/2, Nita began suffering more paralysis. As time passed, her impairment extended from the rear to her front legs. Eventually, she was unable to use the cart. Nita didn’t exhibit signs of pain, but her eyes seemed to seek Lyn out, telling her it was time. Dodd arranged to have her favorite veterinarian put Nita to sleep while she rested in one of her favorite places.

Dodd still mourns her brave, big-hearted little dog, and frets from time to time that there might have been even more she could have done for her in her final years. But she is especially pleased that, thanks to the K-9 Cart, Nita’s last year was happy and full. She remains an enthusiastic advocate of the device, and says she would recommend a cart to anyone whose dog needed help getting around. Dodd says firmly, “I’m positive that the joy Nita felt extended her life a little longer, not to mention gave the end of her life a quality she would not have had otherwise during her last year.”

 

K-9 Carts range in price from $190 (Dachsund size) to $380 (giant breeds) plus shipping. Susan Eskew, a freelance writer living in Crested Butte, Colorado, is a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Managing Canine Behavior

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Family members look forward to September and “back to school” days with widely divergent emotions. Some kids would like the freedom of summer to last forever. Others look forward to the return to football, social activities, even studying. Parents tend to breathe a sigh of relief in the fall as a relative calm settles over the household. But what about Duke, Buddy, and Muffy?

September can be confusing for dogs who have grown accustomed to the constant attention of human friends over the summer. This is an especially difficult time for puppies, acquired in June, who have never been left alone for as many as eight to 10 hours a day. Suddenly the pup is abandoned by the pack, and an animal who would rarely be alone for long periods in his natural environment is left to his own devices for several hours at a time. Small wonder that this is the time when housetraining commonly breaks down, destructive behavior erupts, human tempers flare, and dogs are either banished to backyard isolation, returned to breeders, or dumped at animal shelters.

Dog trainers speak of “managing” behavior to prevent behavior problems. In addition to providing a safe, appropriate environment for your dog (see “In The Doghouse, page 18 of this issue) and gradually acclimating your dog or puppy to being left alone, you can chase away your dog’s abandonment blues and keep him occupied during his long hours alone by giving him entertaining, well-constructed toys. Of particular value are toys that immediately engage the dog and keep him busy for at least 20-30 minutes after the owner’s departure, since the majority of destructive separation anxiety behavior occurs during that period.

WDJ evaluated several canine toys and chew items from the “back-to-school” perspective. Our primary criteria for endorsement were safety, durability, attractiveness to the dog and ability to attract and hold his attention.

Also With This Article
Click here for “Another Round of Dog Toy Testing”

-By Pat Miller

Author Pat Miller, a dog trainer and freelance writer from Salinas, CA, regularly reviews products for WDJ.

Dog Friendly Home Set-Ups

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0

Twenty-five years ago, a friend of mine found two abandoned black-and-tan coonhound pups by the side of the road. He took them home and immediately called a real estate broker, thus beginning his search for a house with a fenced yard and ending his years as an apartment dweller. This same dog owner recently purchased the car of his dreams, only to discover that his dog’s crate wouldn’t fit in the back seat. He returned the car the next day.

We all make accommodations in our lifestyles for our dogs. We come straight home from work instead of stopping off at the pub for a beer with the office gang, because Buddy has been in the house for nine hours and has to pee. We break off a promising relationship because the new neurosurgeon boyfriend is allergic to Smokie. We stay home on the 4th of July rather than going out to watch fireworks, just in case Charley panics from the popping of neighborhood firecrackers. We never wear black or navy blue, because our Golden Retriever’s hair shows too easily on dark colors.

Those are good examples of how some of us arrange our affairs to make room for our dogs. But others carry this notion further – they rearrange their homes to make rooms for their dogs. They knock holes in walls to put in doggie doors, search high and low for fur-resistent furniture fabrics and floor coverings, and even construct separate furnished houses for their furry friends!

If this strikes you as going too far, consider this: Building and decorating your house in a completely “dog-friendly” manner makes it easier to keep clean and flea-free. It also reduces the number of ways that Fido can inadvertently ruin your day by ruining your decor.

Baby Gates and Dog Crates

One of the simplest, most common approaches to managing life with Lassie is the strategic use of baby gates and dog crates. Faith White runs Shar-Pei Rescue in Anchorage, Alaska; has seven dogs of her own; teaches puppy classes; and also occasionally boards dogs for friends. She has eschewed carpeting; her house is tiled throughout for easy maintenance and cleaning. White has gates across her front porches, a dog room off the living room, and uses a kiddy wading pool for a toy box. Because Alaska weather can be harsh (and all of White’s dogs have short coats), in the winter she tarps off an area in the backyard for a windbreak and puts down sawdust to create a protected potty place.

Joan Weintraub of Tiverton, Rhode Island, has ten dogs in her home, which is also her place of business. With customers coming and going all day, Weintraub uses a combination of training and crates to keep the dogs out from under clients’ feet. The office/entertainment area is on the first floor, and dogs are trained to stay out. The rest of the downstairs is wide open dog space, with flooring that is easy to clean and disinfect.

Dog Hair Protection

Keeping a multiple dog household clean is an ongoing challenge. While lots of us resort to ripping up and discarding carpeting in favor of easy-to-maintain vinyl or tile flooring, Pat Wenzel of Wenwood Corgis in Gladwin, Michigan has resigned herself to vacuuming and carpet cleaning.

“I have a standing appointment every six months with the carpet/furniture cleaners,” she says, “and in between, blankets cover all the furniture.” Wenzel also claims ownership of six different vacuum cleaners, each with a specific purpose.

“First,” she explains, “you have your super heavy-duty canister that is absolutely impossible to clog with hair. I recommend the Rainbow. You will need the multiple attachments that it comes with for those pesky underneath places. Then you need a regular upright for those occasions when you need to do a real quick job and don’t feel like dragging the other monster out. This one can be used only occasionally, and never during major seasonal shedding. (The hardware store people think you’re a riot when you bring it in to be de-haired.) The small, hand-held type is a must for the furniture, and the battery operated Dirt Devil mop/vac is invaluable for the utility room and kitchen floors when 24 muddy feet come flying in after a rain storm. And who could live without a regular Dirt Devil for those little ‘so-and-so knocked over the (fill in the blank)’ accidents? Another heavy-duty canister-type vacuum is obligatory in the garage for use in the cars, and then, of course, there’s the Bissell “Little Green Machine” for in depth carpet/furniture spot cleaning.

In addition to her financial investment in cleaning, Wenzel has taken other steps to ensure canine and human comfort.

“R.C. Steele (the pet supply mail order catalog) is my interior decorator,” she says. “Instead of saving money for new people furniture I am presently saving up to purchase custom-made wooden dog crates that will look like furniture but still hold dogs.” Wenzel even had central air conditioning installed in her home – for the dogs’ comfort, not her own.

Doggie Doors and Puppy Pens

Many dog owners recognize the risks inherent in giving a dog free run of the fenced yard when no one is home. Uncontrolled barking can irritate neighbors, resulting in complaints to animal control, or worse, retaliation through poisoning or theft. Meter readers and pool cleaners inadvertently leave gates open, allowing Benji to escape. Bored dogs learn how to dig holes or jump fences. And inclement weather often precludes outdoor housing. Still, the reality of today’s working couples means that Buddy is often left home alone for ten hours or more; an uncomfortably long time to expect him to keep his legs crossed.

Wendy Katz, of Lexington, Kentucky, and Joanne Cook, of Denver, Colorado, both discovered similar solutions to this problem: a doggie door from the house to a fenced outdoor pen where the dogs can go to relieve themselves, but still have access to all the comforts of home. Katz installed her dog door in a back door of her house that leads to a pen with 6′ fencing. The pen is chain link on two sides, and has solid cedar slats on the side facing the neighbor’s house. It is shaded in summer by stately oaks and a crabapple tree. The dogs have run of the downstairs when Katz is away, with access through the door to the pen.

Cook’s door goes through a wall into the garage where the dogs stay during the day, thereby protecting the house from doggie destruction, and leads to a sheltered chainlink pen the length of the garage wall.

Pam Sheehan of Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, went one step further for her pack of tiny Yorkshire terriers. She put a doggie door in the window of a small back room, and built ramps on both sides of the window leading to an outside pen. Speaking of steps, Sheehan also has step stools by her bed and sofa so the Yorkies can easily jump up!

Taking Dog Accomodation to the Next Level

Then there are those dog owners who push the envelope, making even more of a commitment to canine accommodations than the average dog enthusiast. Lisa Wright and her husband moved out of the city to a 90-year-old cabin on 160 acres in Edmonton, Alberta (Canada) in order to provide a proper environment for their pack of Newfoundlands. For 18 months they lived in the cabin with no running water and just a wood stove for heat (in a climate that reaches 40 degrees below zero), while they built their new house. The house has a heated, all-tile floor – no carpets. The dogs have their own room that opens to the living room via a Dutch door, as well as a dog-door out to their dog run. The Wrights sleep in a loft to which the dogs don’t have access, although Lisa will sleep in the dogs’ room when puppies are imminent.

When Teoti Pullie and her husband, of Lexington, South Carolina bought their new house in 1997, the room over the garage was unfinished so they did the obvious – turned it into a room for the dogs, now nicknamed “the nursery.” The Pullies don’t have to worry about how to keep their dogs out of the trash or off the sofa when they aren’t home – they know the dogs are safely playing in their own custom-designed room.

“The construction guy,” says Pullie, “thought I was nuts. I wanted a window unit that provided air conditioning and heat. He said they didn’t exist. When I found the unit I wanted in a catalog he said, ‘You don’t need heat. Those units are expensive – you can get a cheaper unit just for air.'”

When Pullie asked him, “Don’t you think it’ll get cold up here in the winter?” he replied, “It’ll be warm enough for dogs . . .”

“Not MY dogs!” Pullie snapped. She got the unit she wanted.

Pullie had another argument with the carpet people. She wanted Berber. They kept showing her Astroturf. She held out for the Berber. It’s tough, she says, and hardly shows the dirt. She also had custom, adjustable shelves built into one wall for all the doggie equipment, added three light fixtures to the ceiling, and installed two ceiling fans. To top it off, she painted the room sky blue with Wedgewood blue highlights, stamped paws and bones on the doors, and applied a wallpaper border with a puppy pattern complete with Kong toys.

The stairs to the room are through the garage, where a handy utility tub sits for washing off muddy paws. “I do wish I had a raised tub in there for baths,” Pullie muses. that’s probably just a mater of time!

Val Maurer of Hartville, Ohio, also created a custom canine-friendly room for her Border Collie rescue work. She turned a spare bedroom into a rescue room, complete with a closet that she converted into a walk-in shower for the dogs. The room also has cabinets for equipment, food and first-aid supplies, an array of crates for all sizes of Border Collies, and a window curtain made of an old comforter to muffle the sight and sound of lightning and thunder.

Very few dog owners go as far as Sandra Wornum, who has Salukis and does sighthound rescue in her Larkspur, California home. Wornum built a completely separate, one-room granny unit for her dogs, where the elegant sighthounds lounge on futons and listen to music on the stereo or watch videos on the television set. Wornum has had as many as a dozen or more large dogs in her home at one time. Being able to rotate them from “their” house to hers has enable her to maintain her home and her sanity while still giving the dogs individual attention and socialization.

And Then Some…

The list of ways that we accommodate our dogs in our lives is virtually endless. We make strange demands on our real estate agents when we are looking for a house to buy:

“Nope – the stairs to the deck are too steep for my three-legged Lab. The back yard is too small for my Aussies to chase tennis balls. Can’t live next to a school – the kid’s’ll make the dogs bark. Hot tub? No way . . . what if Pippin falls in?”

We make it equally hard for agents to sell our homes. Not everyone appreciates the value of a walk-in dog shower, a bare dirt yard (fewer fleas, and easier to scoop poop), or windows throughout the house that come to within a foot of the floor (so dogs can look out without jumping).

Non-doggie visitors clumsily negotiate baby gates, look askance at dog crates that double as end tables, and ridicule pieces of furniture that belong to the dogs. Families tend to write us off as eccentric. (Oh let’s be honest – they think we’re nuts!) But in the end, the ones who really matter – our dogs, and our dog-loving friends – appreciate and understand the efforts we put into creating a home that minimizes the stress and maximizes the joy of living life with Lassie.

Answers from Experts: September 1998

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

In this expert answers from the backlog of Whole Dog Journal our experts answer readers concerns training small dogs, two of which came as complete surprises, and looking after dogs outdoors with non-toxic lawn care for a less chemical laden environment for pets and family.

Training Small Dogs

Last September I adopted a Shih Tzu couple who were on their way to the pound. I was led to believe the female was spayed. The male I had neutered a week after they got here. But 64 days after they moved in, I awoke to the shock of my life; the female had two puppies. I have since had her spayed.

Now, with four of these little dogs in the house, it’s becoming critical that they get a little better trained. I bought book about Shih Tzus recently, which was informative in many regards except when it comes to training them. The pictures and text were geared toward a large dog! I have perused many books in bookstores to find one that deals specifically with training a small breed. The only thing I ever found is the toy breeds need to be dealt with differently. I can’t see myself putting a choke chain on something that only weighs 14 pounds. The adult ShihTzus are pretty good but the puppies are like small children always testing the limits.

 

 

-Angelika Mercer
Honey Brook, PA

We sent this question to Bill Stavers, a dog trainer and animal behavior specialist from Beverly Hills, CA. Stavers assists veterinarians as the staff trainer/behaviorist at the Wilshire Animal Hospital, is the behavior consultant for the Huntington Hospital pet assisted therapy program, and is a certified animal evaluator for the Delta Society. He teaches dog training in classes and private lesson, using only positive reinforcement (no choke collars!) and offers telephone consultations for problem-solving.

You didn’t say what kind of misbehavior is concerning you, so I’ll address the general concept of training small dogs.

You’re right; choke collars and force are not the solution for any dogs, and may be especially inappropriate for little dogs. At the risk of using a stereotype, most small dogs (such as Jack Russell Terriers, Fox Terriers, and Shiba Inus) and some of the Northern-bred dogs (like American Eskimos, Huskies, Spitz, and Norwegian Elkhounds) don’t respond well to punishment; they get mad if you hurt them. The bigger working dogs are different. If you punish a German Shepherd or a Labrador, they tend to quit or give in: “OK, OK, I’ll lie down here,” They were bred to take orders, to work. More independent dogs don’t respond well to that approach.

The thing to use is food.

Even as recently as a few years ago, using food treats was considered taboo. People worried that if you used food to train a dog you would always have to use it for the rest of the dog’s life. But in recent years, people have begun to see that using food to train is an incredibly effective way to reinforce desirable behavior.

I would suggest you go buy Karen Pryor’s book, “A Dog and A Dolphin,” which is about using food and other reinforcers to create and reward behavior. ($7 from The Dog & Cat Book Catalog, Direct Book Service, 800-776-2665.) The book lays out the theory behind using food to train; it shows you how to elicit and then reward behaviors using reinforcements. It’s not about dog training per se, it’s just about how to use reinforcement. I guarantee that you will be able to use her principles to get any behavior you want from your Shih Tzus. The book is easy to read and enjoyable.

There’s no limit to what you can do. The Shih Tzus will work if you start practicing. You could have them all sitting in line, waiting for you to give each one a treat, in a matter of minutes.

A concern with food training is overfeeding. That’s why I encourage people to use feeding time as a training session. Instead of putting the food down and walking away, dole out the kibble piece by piece as you teach basic obedience routines. It takes 20 minutes, but in that time you can get them to do four sits, two lay downs, one go to your bed, and six come heres.

It’s fun.

If you decide to engage the services of a professional trainer, look for someone who is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. The APDT offers free referrals to local trainers (call 800-738-3647). All the members use positive reinforcement, and are familiar with Pryor’s book. They meet annually to increase their education about dogs and dog training, and generally take a forward-thinking, gentle approach to training.

———-

Non-Toxic Lawn Care

Is there any way to kill those ugly toxic mushrooms that are growing all over my lawn? How about those slimy, ugly slugs? I don’t want to use ANY chemicals because of my dogs. The mushrooms keep coming back no matter how many times I pull them out. They grow in the sun, shade, and everywhere else it seems.

-Hillary Rosanova
Crystal Lake, Illinois

We sent this question to Eileen Rushing, a Clemson University Extension “Master Gardener, and co-owner of Interhay South, a hay and feed supplier and garden center in Camden, South Carolina. Interhay specializes in organic gardening products, and offers an organic lawn maintenance service.

I’m glad you’re adverse to using chemicals on your lawn. Dog and cat owners need to be especially careful about using anything toxic on their grass and there are plenty of toxic things you could use for your problems! Fortunately, all pet owners need to do to keep their lawns looking good are to use good basic cultural practices, which I’ll outline below.

It sounds to me as if your yard is generally damp. You can help dry the yard by removing any dense ground cover, trimming bushes and hedges up off the ground, and clearing your yard of undergrowth. This will discourage the mushrooms and the snails.

Specifically regarding the mushrooms: The first thing I would do is to take a sample of your soil to the closest agricultural extension office for a general test. The most important part of the test for you is the pH test. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14; neutral is 7. Mushrooms thrive in soil with a low pH, so if your soil is found to have a low pH, the extension office will be able to tell you what kind of soil amendment you can use to bring the pH closer to neutral. That will probably spell the end of the mushrooms, and it will also probably improve the health of your lawn. If the pH of your soil is not in the middle range, then it doesn’t matter how much fertilizer or anything else you use; your plants can’t change the mineral and trace elements in the soil into the form they need.

As for the slugs: The very best trap for slugs are little dishes of beer; the slugs are attracted to the beer and the salt it in kills them. Pour a little beer in plastic coffee can lids or something similar. Of course, you’ll have to dispose of dead slugs for a while, until the population is reduced enough to make you happy, but you’ll be making progress. I’ve never used these solutions myself, but I’ve read that slugs can also be discouraged with the use of oak leaf mulch and or by drenching the soil with wormwood tea. (To make the tea, you could use a big bucket of water and a bunch of the herb; just let the herbs soak in a bucket of water for a few hours in the sun, and spray the liquid on the lawn.)

Of course, you’re correct in not wanting to use the commercial slug and snail baits; they are all extremely toxic. These poisons kill dogs and cats and all kinds of animals.

Your lawn will be able to choke out the mushrooms (and any other weeds that might be present) if you can spend a little time getting the grass really healthy. Good healthy roots will fight the undesirable conditions that make your lawn look poor and let weeds and mushrooms grow.

To improve your lawn’s health, you have to do three things: use a good organic fertilizer, and aerate and de-thatch the lawn. And of course, avoid the use of all chemical fertilizers, “weed and feed” compounds, herbicides, and fungicides. All of those things end up in our water supply, and kill animals and birds and reptiles and frogs.

The best organic fertilizer we’ve seen is a liquid seaweed extract. It’s slow-acting and doesn’t leach out of the soil, like the chemical fertilizers do. And, of course, it’s completely non-toxic and can’t harm your pets, who spend a lot of time on the lawn. The proper time to fertilize is in the early spring and midsummer

Aerators and de-thatchers can both be rented. There are all different kinds, but they all accomplish the same thing: aerators have long tines that poke into the ground several inches and loosen the soil, allowing the roots to expand and grow. De-thatchers have little tines that bring that debris grass clippings, leaf particles, and other matter up and out of the grass. This opens up the soil and allows it to breathe. All these things will improve the health and appearance of your lawn, and enable you and your dogs to enjoy it more.

1...361362363...391Page 362 of 391

Latest Blog

Is your dog suffering from separation anxiety or is it another form of distress.
Blog

Is it Really Separation Anxiety?

Nancy Kerns 4
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
© Belvoir Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved.