Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 36

Babesiosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
0
Walks in the wilderness are fun for both you and your dog, but can open them up to tickborne infections like babesiosis.
Ticks can’t jump. Instead, they hang out at the ends of grass waiting to latch onto an unsuspecting host, like a dog, spreading diseases like babesiosis. Credit: Faba Photography | Getty Images

Babesiosis is a tickborne disease that can affect dogs. Although the disease is seen worldwide, including in the United States, much of the what we know about babesiosis is from Europe.

Babesiosis is primarily transmitted through a tick bite but can infect puppies in utero and be spread by dog bites through saliva. The tiny parasite that causes babesiosis attacks and destroys red blood cell, causing anemia. While most dogs develop a slowly progressing illness with minimal symptoms, some dogs show an acute, aggressive illness.

An important consideration with babesiosis is that infected dogs never totally rid themselves of this infection, even with treatment. An infected dog is considered a lifetime carrier, with illness possible under stressful conditions. The dog may also serve as a potential source of infection for other dogs. Dogs used for blood transfusion donations should be screened for babesiosis. The same is true for any dog adopted out of a dog-fighting scenario.

Symptoms of Babesiosis

Symptoms of babesiosis include hematuria, which is blood in the urine; dark urine; pale membranes from the anemia; and weakness, swollen lymph nodes, and an enlarged and fragile spleen. Many dogs have a fever and are lethargic.

Many severely compromised dogs have immune disorders or have had their spleens removed.

Diagnosis of Babesiosis in Dogs

Diagnosis is done by identification of the parasites on blood smears or via PCR laboratory testing.

Treatment of Babesiosis in Dogs

Imidocarb, azithromycin and atovaquone, and clindamycin are all potential medications for treatment. Very anemic dogs may need transfusions and are acutely ill.

Avoiding Babesiosis

As with so many tickborne diseases, avoiding this disease starts with tick control. With so many options, from orals medications and topicals for the skin to collars, you should be able to find the right one for your dog.

Management such as making your yard and outdoor areas unattractive to ticks also helps. Repellent sprays can help to keep ticks off your dog. Be sure you know what a tick looks like and how to remove it and do daily checks, such as wiping your dog over with a lint roller after a hike in fields or woods to pick up ticks before they attach.

A vaccine in Europe only seems to work on certain species. No vaccine is available in North America as of this writing.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
-
0
Dogs can eat oatmeal provided it's cooked and made without additional ingredients.
You can let your dog have share some oatmeal, but be sure it’s made from plain oats and water without things like raisins or artificial sweeteners. Credit: Aleksandar Nakic | Getty Images

Your dog can safely eat most forms of oatmeal, but avoid those packets of flavored oatmeal, as they may contain other ingredients that are harmful to your dog, including the deadly sweetener xylitol. Stick with plain oats.

You have likely seen dog foods and treats that include oatmeal as an ingredient. That’s because it is nutritious. Beneficial nutrients in oatmeal for dogs include:

  • Fiber
  • Vitamin B
  • Omega-6 fatty acids
  • Magnesium
  • Zinc
  • Antioxidants

These qualities can help to support heart and gastro-intestinal tract health for your dog. Oatmeal also can help promote healthy weight and stable blood glucose levels. Oatmeal is good for dogs with diarrhea or loose stools because it’s high in fiber.

How to Feed Oatmeal to Dogs

When cooking oatmeal for your dog, use water instead of milk. Most dogs are lactose intolerant, so water is the better choice. Follow the instructions for the plain oats of your choice. You can even use overnight oats that soak overnight.

As with any new food, introduce oatmeal gradually so that your dog doesn’t get an upset stomach. Start with about a spoonful of cooked oatmeal at a time. You can work up to about 6 ounces of oatmeal a day per 25 pounds of the dog’s bodyweight.

If you plan to home-cook your dog’s meals rather than just feeding oatmeal as a supplemental snack, consult with a veterinary nutritionist or use BalanceIt.com to formulate a complete and balanced diet. This will ensure that your dog gets all the nutrients that she needs to be happy and healthy long term.

And don’t forget to let the oatmeal cool before you serve it to your dog!

Oatmeal in Dog Food

Oatmeal is sometimes used in commercial dog foods as an alternate carbohydrate source instead of wheat, rice, or corn. Provided that the dog food packaging has an AAFCO statement declaring that it is formulated to meet nutritional standards for your dog’s life stage, you are all set to feed it to your dog as-is.

Oatmeal is also used in many treats that your dog may enjoy.

Can Dogs Eat Uncooked Oatmeal?

Dogs should not eat uncooked “raw” oatmeal. The cooking process makes it easier for dogs to digest. Eating dry uncooked oatmeal in large quantities may cause your dog to bloat, which is a medical emergency.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal Cookies?

Dogs can eat oatmeal cookies once in a great while depending on what else is in them. Remember that raisins and chocolate chips are both toxic to dogs, which rules out many oatmeal cookies. The high sugar content of many cookies is not ideal for our canine companions, however.

Unless you are certain all the ingredients in an oatmeal cookie are safe for dogs, keep that treat for yourself.

5 Reasons to Microchip Your Dog

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
-
0
Microchipping a dog offers many advantages for locating the dog, and tracking health records.
Universal dog microchip scanners can be used to identify any dog with a microchip and get that dog back to the owner. Credit: Ali Cobanoglu | Getty Images

YES, microchipping your dog is 100% worth it! This quick, easy, inexpensive process gives your dog permanent identification that will stay with her for life no matter where she goes. If she ever gets lost, that microchip will be the best bet you have of being reunited.

Five reasons to microchip your dog are:

  1. Collars and tags can fall off, but microchips are forever.
  2. Once your dog’s microchip is registered with your contact information, it will stay in the database forever.
  3. You can quickly and easily update your contact information online.
  4. Almost all shelters, vet clinics, and animal control officers have universal scanners to check a lost dog for a microchip.
  5. Microchips are safe, easy to implant, and inexpensive.

A microchip is permanent identification that shows the dog is linked to you. Each chip has a unique number. Most chip numbers also indicate the company that made the chip.

Once a microchip has been implanted under your dog’s skin (usually behind the shoulder blades), the chip needs to be registered with the manufacturer. In other words, if your dog’s microchip was purchased from HomeAgain, you will register through HomeAgain, if the chip was made by PetLink you will register with PetLink, and so on.

How Much to Microchip a Dog?

The cost of a microchip for a dog is generally $30 to $60, but that will vary depending on where you live and the brand of microchip used. The cost includes the microchip itself, implantation of the chip under your dog’s skin, and registration.

You do not have to purchase an annual subscription from the manufacturer for your dog’s and your information to remain in their database. These basic features are forever. The annual subscriptions provide additional features that vary from brand to brand, so read the details to see if you are interested.

When to Microchip Your Dog

The microchip can be implanted once your dog is 6 weeks old. It can be done during a routine vaccine appointment, or while your dog is under anesthesia for a spay or neuter surgery or a dental cleaning.

Microchip Registration Is Critical

Registering the microchip is what links the unique code in your dog’s microchip with your name and contact information. Most chips can be registered online, and you can choose to add multiple family members or co-owners as desired. Your veterinary clinic staff may register the microchip for you at the time of implantation, so be sure to ask how to access the account so you can keep your contact info up to date.

If your dog gets lost, most veterinarians, animal control officers, and shelters now have universal scanners to scan for a microchip. This means that one scanner can read microchips made by many manufacturers. When the person who scanned your dog has the microchip number, they can look it up online to then contact the company and get your contact information. In a matter of minutes, they can call you to let you know your dog is safe and sound. A study by Linda Lord, published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Association, showed that the biggest reason microchipped pets were not returned to their owners was failure of the owners to update the information in the microchip database.

Why Your Dog is Licking Their Back Near the Tail

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
-
0
If your dog keeps licking back near tail he could be suffering from discomfort due to allergies, or another issue.
A dog who is constantly licking the base of his tail is reacting to discomfort. Credit: Maryna Terletska | Getty Images

A dog who spends a lot of time licking near the base of his tail is often suffering from anal gland issues, allergies, or both. Allergies, especially a food allergy, can cause inflammation of the anal glands, which is irritating to the dog.

Other potential causes of a dog licking the base of the tail include fleas in the area, hot spots, perianal fistulas, and perianal tumors. If your dog is licking back there a lot, take a good look at the general area yourself.

The dog’s licking implies something is uncomfortable. The sooner you get a veterinary diagnosis and appropriate treatment the sooner your best friend and companion is feeling better and can get back to living his best life.

Anal Gland Inflammation

The anal glands are two natural scent glands that sit at approximately 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock, if the anus was a clock face. Each time the dog has a bowel movement, a little of the anal gland secretions are squeezed out, keeping the glands from uncomfortably overfilling. Some dogs, depending on how the gland and its opening are anatomically situated, are unable to achieve this natural anal gland expression.

These dogs will either scoot on their behinds or lick obsessively at the area to try and relieve the uncomfortable pressure. For these dogs, routine manual anal gland expression is usually recommended to keep them comfortable. In addition to overfilling, anal glands can become inflamed, impacted, or infected.

For these dogs, working with your veterinarian is critical to getting the problem diagnosed and controlled. Additionally, your dog may need to have his inflamed anal glands flushed and an anti-inflammatory ointment infused into the gland. Impacted anal glands require manual expression by your veterinarian. Infected anal glands are usually treated with a flush, oral antibiotics, oral anti-inflammatory medications, and warm water soaks or sitz baths to encourage draining.

Allergies and Inflammation

Dogs with allergies lick and scratch a lot, sometimes all over, sometimes only in certain areas, such as around the base of the tail. If your dog is licking or chewing a lot back near the tail, the first thing to do is check for fleas, and if he is not on an effective flea control product, get him on one. Itching, licking, and chewing in the rump area, where the tail is, is frequently due to flea allergy dermatitis (FAD).

Licking under the base of tail and around the sides is often associated with food allergy. Your veterinarian will likely recommend a special diet trial to see if the urge to lick goes away while on a hypoallergenic food. If it does, keeping your dog on that food should resolve the licking.

How to Keep a Dog from Jumping the Fence

By
Kate O'Connor
-
1
Some dogs view fences as a challenge not a limitation making it hard to keep them from jumping the fence.
It can be difficult to keep a dog from jumping the fence, especially if they are athletic and confident. Credit: fotorince | Getty Images

A fenced yard can be great when you have a dog. It gives them a safe place to play, relieve themselves, and enjoy being outside as well as providing a reasonably controlled environment for training, exercise, and enrichment activities. However, that safety can disappear quickly if your dog finds a way to get out of the yard.

It’s safe to assume that if a dog can get over, under, or through a barrier, she will. This raises the question of how to keep a dog in the yard once she figures out how to beat the fence. To be honest, the only reliable way to keep a dog from jumping the fence is to build a better fence. Training your dog to respect boundaries can help, but there is no way to guarantee that training will hold if something frightening or exciting happens while you are not there to reinforce the behavior you expect.

Why Dogs Escape

Identifying the cause of the problem won’t change how to keep a dog in the yard; to reiterate, if a dog is capable of getting out, always assume the time will come when she will. However, having an idea of what motivates your dog might offer some insight into how to improve her life overall. While the human/canine communication barrier prevents us from knowing exactly why a specific dog might decide to leave when an opportunity presents itself, we can make some educated guesses:

  • Boredom: A dog who is not getting enough stimulation may feel the need to go look for something better to do than hanging around in the same old space doing the same old things.
  • Loneliness: While some dogs are fine by themselves, others don’t like to be alone for long periods of time. If company can be found outside the yard, then over the fence they will go if they can manage it.
  • Separation anxiety: A dog experiencing separation anxiety may attempt to get back to where she feels safe – namely, with her humans. If this seems like it might be why your dog is trying to escape, it’s time to stop putting her out in the yard alone and first work on resolving her anxiety. Anxiety and fear can drive a dog to extreme measures such as flinging herself at the fence, biting or tearing at barriers, or forcing her way through too-small gaps.
  • Fear: Similarly, if something in the yard scares a dog to the point where she feels the need to escape, she will be very motivated to find a way out, fence or no fence.
  • External stimulation: There are a plethora of things that can trigger a dog’s desire to approach something they can’t reach because of the fence. Whether it’s chasing squirrels or wanting to get to another dog or human, seeing something on the other side can create a need to get out.
  • Fun: Sometimes the grass just looks greener on the other side. Exploring can be reason enough to go wandering even if there is plenty of fun stuff to do at home.

Good Fencing for Dogs

While no barrier is perfect, a good fence will go a long way toward keeping your dog in and other animals and humans out. Things to consider when assessing fencing for dogs include:

  • Your dog: Step one is to observe your dog, keeping in mind any traits or behaviors that might play a role in how she interacts with a fence. For example, an energetic, athletic dog may need a taller, stronger fence than one who just wants to laze around in the sun when outside. That goes double for a dog who has shown signs of wanting to jump or climb. On the other end of the fence, a small dog or a dog who wants to dig may need something that sits flush with or below ground level. Keep in mind that a puppy or a dog who is new to the household may become more willing to test the fence as she gains confidence.
  • Fence height: While 6 feet is generally considered a safe bet for most dogs, there is no fool-proof guide to guessing the right fence height. Typically, taller dogs call for taller fences, but there are plenty of small dogs that can get some serious airtime and they have less mass to weigh them down when climbing. It’s worth noting that the current record holder for “highest jump by a dog” logged a leap of 75.5 inches (6.3 feet). The record was set for a clean jump; if a dog can get a paw on something to give them a lift, or jump high enough to get paws over a support and climb the rest of the way, even a 6-foot fence might not be enough if you’ve got a real athlete on your hands.
  • Fence add-ons: For a determined climber or digger (see the sidebar below), there are some options to help keep them from getting out. An inward slanting panel at the top of a fence can make it harder to climb over while a concrete strip or L-shaped footer buried underground can serve to keep a digger contained.
  • Gaps and spacing: Pay attention to any gaps in the fencing, particularly at corners, gates, and where the fence meets the ground. Also note how closely spaced the fencing material is. A good rule of thumb is that if the dog can get her head through, the rest of her could follow.
  • Material: Discussing the pros and cons of fencing materials could be an article unto itself. In short, the best option depends a lot on the dog, location, and available budget. Of the more commonly used materials, chain link and other metal mesh fences are durable, low-maintenance, and often more budget friendly. However, they are climbable, flexible, and often have gaps at gates or corners. Wooden panel fencing provides more privacy and less external stimulation, but tends to require more maintenance, especially in harsher climates. It can also be chewable and provide purchase for determined climbers. Vinyl panel fencing is lower maintenance and longer-lasting than wood while offering many of the same benefits. It is also slippery enough to make climbing difficult, but can be more expensive and harder to repair if damaged. Brick or stone walls are great for containing dogs but can get very pricey, especially if they need to be taller than a few feet.

Extending Existing Fencing

When it comes to extending a fence your dog has already (or nearly) escaped, half measures generally won’t cut it. For example, if you were to add only a foot to a fence your dog has jumped or climbed over before, you may end up encouraging her to just try harder next time. The same goes for diggers; a footer that goes a short way past the depth your dog dug to previously might actually teach her to dig deeper. Also, filling in or reinforcing only the spot your dog dug out of may push her to try other spots along the fence instead. To be effective, fence extensions need to be significant to stand a chance.

Two Types of Canine Escape Artists

There are two individuals in my dog history – both beloved residents of the family kennel – that came immediately to mind when I started writing this article. The first, Lupe, was a joyful and relentless digger. She tunneled everywhere – in between runs in the kennel (which then had packed pea-gravel footing), under fences separating the dog yards, and out under the main dog paddock fence. She was also a big fan of bringing friends. If she was in the yard with a buddy, she’d urge them through the hole. If she was solo, she’d dig into another run or yard before heading out to explore the neighborhood. We were very, very lucky that nobody got hurt or lost before we figured out that she could and would go through pretty much anything even remotely diggable the moment her humans turned their backs.

Lupe has the honor of being the impetus for one of the kennel’s most expensive fencing renovations to date. In order to make a safe place for her (and her daughter, who picked up her mother’s hobby), we ended up renting a backhoe and digging a trench around the perimeter of every fence on the property meant to contain a dog. From there, we installed L-shaped panels that extended two feet below ground and one foot in. Lupe spent six months spot testing the new fence before deciding her digging efforts were better spent on gopher holes.

The second, Blue, was a climber. In his case, we didn’t figure that out for a while. He came to us as a rescue with a plethora of tick-borne illnesses. Recovery was slow but when his energy finally started to come back, he began climbing the fences, which were mostly chain link or wire mesh over wood. In his case, the climbing seemed to be motivated by separation anxiety. Especially in the early days, when he was still learning that we were his and he was ours, he really struggled with not having a human in sight and would do what he felt he needed to do to fix that – including scaling 6-foot chain link.

Trust-building and training helped him to feel more comfortable and eventually he was able to happily spend time in the yard, but he was always a climber. We ended up adding a chain link roof to one of the outdoor dog runs so he would have a safe place to hang out and get some fresh air without us being right there with him.

The Dangers of Tie-outs and Invisible Fences

It may be tempting to look for other ways to restrain your dog outside if existing fencing isn’t doing the trick, especially since a new, dog-safe fence can be a major expense. Unfortunately, there aren’t many good options available.

While it was once a commonly used approach, leaving a dog outside on a line or chain puts her at significant risk of injury. First, it’s too easy for a dog to get tangled in the line, even if there aren’t any obvious objects to get stuck on. If the line gets wrapped around a leg, or worse, around the dog’s neck, it can cause sprains, broken bones, or strangulation. There is also the risk of neck and back injuries if the dog were to get jerked to a sudden stop by outrunning the length of line or chain.

Electronic “invisible” fences, which usually work by supplying a shock, vibration, or sound via a special collar when the dog goes past the set boundary, aren’t a good way to go either. Even if you pick a “pain free” option that cues the dog with sound or vibration and provide training based on positive associations, it comes back to the question of “Will it hold when something scary or thrilling happens?” Let’s say a loose dog comes running through the barrier (which he can’t see or feel) and starts a fight with your dog. In the fear and confusion, how likely is it that your dog will remember her training and prioritize staying within the boundary over her own life?

What to Do if You Don’t Have a Dog-Proof Fence

Whether it’s the expense, the circumstances (such as rental property rules), or if you’ve just found yourself sharing your life with an incredible dog who can get through anything not designed to hold a grizzly bear, building a better fence isn’t always possible. It’s worth remembering that a fenced yard is not a requirement for giving your dog a good life. As long as you are able to provide her with appropriate exercise and enrichment through walks, training, and other activities, she doesn’t need to be loose in a yard to be happy and healthy.

Are Dogs Ticklish?

By
Kate O'Connor
-
0
Some dogs are ticklish, and some of these enjoy being tickled.
Many dogs are ticklish on their bellies and under their front legs. Credit: Photos by R A Kearton | Getty Images

There is little question about whether humans experience tickling sensations, but are dogs ticklish as well? The short answer is yes. Light touches and scratches on sensitive spots can yield very similar reactions in dogs and humans such as squirming, twitching, and playful vocalizations.

Alongside the anecdotal evidence, researchers at the University of California noted in a study that knismesis, defined as a light tickling or itching sensation, “appears to be widespread across many mammals” including dogs. Although the topic of canine ticklishness has only been sparsely researched, it is generally acknowledged that dogs as a species do experience ticklishness.

Where are Dogs Ticklish?

When it comes to if or where a specific individual is ticklish, results will vary. Some dogs will wiggle and grin at the mere suggestion of being scratched on the right spot while others just don’t seem to experience the sensation. Some are only ticklish as young puppies, but others remain ticklish throughout their lives. For dogs that are ticklish, common spots include:

  • Sides
  • Belly
  • Chest
  • Ears
  • Base of the tail
  • Paws

To Tickle or Not to Tickle

For humans, tickling is usually a sign of closeness – just think of how odd and uncomfortable it would be if a perfect stranger walked up to you and tried to tickle you. The same holds true for dogs. Most dogs are much more likely to enjoy being tickled by a known and trusted human rather than a stranger.

Also like humans, enjoyment of tickling sensations differs between dogs. Some love it. Others loathe it. For those that like it, tickling can be a fun part of playtime.

If you don’t yet know your dog’s preferences, go slowly to avoid creating an unpleasant experience. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you when you touch potentially sensitive spots. If he moves away from the sensation, tenses up, or exhibits stress behaviors such as yawning or lip-licking, it’s time to find another game. On the other hand, if he wiggles around on his back with his feet in the air and his tongue lolling out when you tickle his belly, it’s a good sign he’s having fun too.

Another thing to watch out for is that tickling can be fun at first but become overwhelming if it goes on too long. Take breaks to assess how your dog is feeling and stop before the sensation becomes too much to be enjoyable. Be sure to respect your dog’s boundaries if he moves away or begins showing signs of being uncomfortable.

Gear and Ticklishness

Every once in a while, there is a piece of gear – such as a harness, collar, backpack, or jacket – that just hits a dog’s ticklish spots wrong. Even if the dog typically enjoys being tickled during playtime, dealing with the sensation while on a walk or trying to rest could become annoying or uncomfortable. Some signs that a piece of equipment might be tickling or hurting a dog include:

  • Skin shivering
  • Biting at gear
  • Walking stiffly or refusing to walk
  • Scratching excessively

If your dog is demonstrating any of these behaviors, the first step is to make sure his gear is properly adjusted and fits him well. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, it’s time to find something that doesn’t hit ticklish spots.

Overall, tickling can either be a fun part of bonding and playtime or something that creates a barrier between you and your dog. It’s up to you to ensure everyone is having a good time.

Can Dogs Eat Rice?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
0
Dogs can eat rice and its a staple bland food to feed a dog with an upset dog.
Rice is a great bland food for dogs, but some dogs won’t eat it without something added to it, like chicken. Credit: hxyume | Getty Images

The long and the short of it is – yes, dogs can eat rice.

Cooked white rice is traditionally fed to dogs with an upset gastrointestinal (GI) tract because rice is bland and therefore easy on the GI tract. However, some dogs won’t eat it without some cooked plain chicken breast or boiled hamburger added to it.

Cooked without spices or salt, white rice is easy to digest and a good source of nutrition as it contains calcium and vitamins. It is gluten-free for dogs who are sensitive to wheat. Rice also adds fiber, making it an excellent choice for a dog recovering from pancreatitis.

Can Dogs Eat Brown Rice?

Dogs can eat cooked brown rice. Brown rice has more vitamins than white rice, but it can be harder to digest so it is not as easy on an upset stomach.

Brown rice has a lower glycemic index than white rice, making it a better for diabetic dogs as it won’t influence blood glucose as much. Jasmine rice is also fine for dogs.

What You Should Know About Dogs and Rice

Rice needs to be cooked plain without adding spices or salt. While your dog might be attracted to fried rice, it is not healthy for him. If your dog turns his nose up at plain rice, try adding some low salt bouillon to the cooking water.

You should only use a combo of rice and boiled chicken or hamburger short term for gastrointestinal upsets as it is not a balanced diet.

All types of rice are considered “high carb,” so should not be overfed as it could cause weight gain in dogs. The carbohydrates also can contribute to blood glucose spikes, which can be dangerous for diabetic dogs.

Many dog foods include rice as part of their balanced formulas. It is a good grain substitute for dogs with gluten problems, such as Irish Setters with their gluten enteropathy. Some dogs don’t handle rice well. Plain mashed potato – emphasis on “plain” – can work for those dogs who need a bland diet.

Aggression at Dog Parks

By
Nancy Kerns
-
3
A prominent display of dog park rules.
Some parks try to impose common-sense rules to help people keep their dogs safe. Photo by Petra Richli, Getty Images

We’ve all got stories about terrible things that we’ve seen or heard about that happened at a dog park: Dogs who fought, dogs who got killed, dogs who bit people. Nevertheless, I think we all could acknowledge that in a perfect world, large and safely fenced parks where dogs can run off-leash are a valuable asset to many dogs; the ability to run outdoors improves their physical and mental health. And some of the dogs and some of the people like to socialize there. The problem is, how to keep anyone from hurting each other!

In some cities or towns, people try to regulate or legislate rules or guidelines to try to reduce the occurrence of tragedies. “No aggressive dogs,” the signs might broadly state (though there are plenty of people who can’t identify any but the most violent acts of canine aggression).

In contrast, other parks take a micromanaging approach, forbidding people from bringing food, toys, or children into the park, banning intact dogs and puppies under a certain age, and providing spaces for smaller and larger dogs and strictly enforcing this separation. If observed, all of these rules will help prevent certain acts of aggression between dogs – but any time a mixed population of dogs and their humans gather off-leash, there is a chance that disagreements will happen, no matter how diligently all the rules are followed.

I would argue that there are just as many potentially aggressive humans at these parks as there are dogs who exhibit aggressive behavior, so I was amused to see a sign in one dog park recently that confirmed my bias and gave attendees a way to bring in a higher authority to handle aggression-related disputes:

 

It’s probably not funny. I recently read about a dog-park tragedy where a Shi-Tzu’s owner shot and killed another person’s Rottweiler after the large dog grabbed and was shaking the small dog. It’s only natural to try to place blame with one party or the other. It sounded like the off-leash Shi-Tzu ran up to the leashed Rottweiler barking; did the small dog initiate the aggression? Was the Rottweiler dog-aggressive; is that why the owner had the dog (and another Rottweiler) on leash in an off-leash park? Perhaps none of those dogs should have been a dog park, and certainly not in the same area; it’s safest when small and large dogs have separate areas to play in. But I have experienced a situation where a 25-pound dog caused injuries that killed a 12-pound dog, so a separate small-dog area is not the only answer.

If I still lived in an urban area where there are few places to let my dogs run, and I had young adult dogs who would benefit from more exercise than I could provide on leash, I would likely still make an occasional visit to a dog park. But I’d never take a puppy or insecure adolescent to a dog park. I’d take a friendly, adult dog only during hours when a park was very lightly populated – and I’d always observe the dogs (and humans!) who were present in the park before I entered. I’d want to see playful dogs who seemed to be attentive to their attentive owners; I won’t go into a park if all I see are folks who are drinking coffee and looking at their phones, or gabbing with other owners and not watching their dogs. And I wouldn’t even turn off the car if I see any aroused-appearing dogs cruising around looking for other dogs to run toward and bully, or mobbing every new dog who walks into the park. Unfortunately, all of those disqualifiers are all-too-common at most dog parks.

(If you’re still inclined to visit dog parks with your dog, read Pat Miller’s 2017 piece about how to evaluate a dog park for a safer visit.)

Helping Your Dog with Physical Therapy

By
CJ Puotinen
-
0
Canine rehabilitation therapists help provide dogs with physical rehab.
Caption: Massage therapy is one of the treatments often offered by canine rehabilitation therapists. Credit: Georgiy Datsenko | Getty Images

The term “physical therapist” is reserved for practitioners who treat human patients, but canine rehabilitation therapists (that’s the correct term) provide the same assistance for dogs. As dog physical therapy becomes more widely available, some veterinarians have taken post-doctorate training in pain management, acupuncture, chiropractic, and other rehabilitation therapies.

For example, the American Association of Rehabilitation Veterinarians (AARV) educates veterinary surgeons, veterinarians, and pet owners about the effectiveness of this approach to pain management and the loss of function through illness or injury. More recently, the American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation was created to meet the unique needs of athletic and working animals by improving their coordination and mobility despite injuries, chronic illnesses like arthritis, and neurologic impairments.

If your veterinarians do not specialize in rehabilitation themselves, dog physical therapy usually begins with a referral to a canine rehabilitation therapist. These specialists earn credentials like CCRP (Certified Canine Rehabilitation Practitioner) and CCAT (Certified Companion Animal Rehabilitation Therapist) from credentialing programs that focus on canine anatomy and physiology, common medical conditions and injuries, assessment techniques, pain recognition, and rehabilitation programs. The treatments they offer can include:

  • therapeutic exercises
  • manual therapy
  • massage therapy
  • balance training
  • strength and conditioning exercises
  • swimming and hydrotherapy
  • gait training
  • proprioceptive training
  • therapeutic lasers
  • chiropractic adjustments
  • acupuncture/acupressure
  • electrical stimulation
  • thermal treatment with heat or cold
  • mobility products for pets
  • knee or leg braces
  • canine wheelchairs
  • magnetic field therapy
  • pain management strategies

It is important to note that the field of canine rehabilitation therapy is rapidly changing, with new technologies and approaches available or under development, making current research and continuing education important for rehabilitation therapists.

What Problems do Canine Rehabilitation Therapists Treat?

Much like similar treatments for humans, dog physical therapy can be used to address both acute and chronic conditions. If your dog is in pain, has lost strength or flexibility, has an uneven gait or loss of balance, is recovering from an accident, injury, surgery, or illness, or suffers from chronic symptoms that interfere with favorite activities, a canine rehabilitation therapist may be able to help with techniques, special equipment, and home exercise routines.

  • Orthopedic conditions such as cruciate ligament injuries, hip dysplasia, and osteoarthritis respond to rehabilitation exercise, pain management, and weight control.
  • Neurological conditions such as Invertebral Disc Disease (IVDD), degenerative myelopathy, and peripheral nerve injuries require rehabilitation exercise to maintain mobility, promote nerve healing, and improve the dog’s quality of life.
  • Post-surgical rehabilitation follows the repair of broken bones, surgeries, and amputations to aid recovery, restore function, and prevent complications. A variety of treatments speed recovery from surgery.
  • Musculoskeletal injuries like sprains, strains, ligament injuries and muscle tears recover faster with therapies that promote healing and restore function. Massage, manual therapy, and other hands-on treatments help alleviate muscle tension, improve circulation, promote relaxation, improve joint mobility, and reduce pain and stiffness.
  • Sports injuries include muscle strains, ligament sprains, and joint injuries in active, athletic dogs competing in competitions or other vigorous activities. Physical rehabilitation using various methods aids recovery and the safe return to previous activity levels.
  • Age and weight issues like degenerative joint disease, muscle weakness, a loss of mobility, and obesity interfere with a dog’s health and happiness. Physical therapy helps overweight dogs improve their fitness levels, prevent common injuries, and regain mobility.

Some treatments require equipment that can be used at home, such as balance discs or cushions, balance pads, ramps, and platforms. Other equipment, such as canine treadmills, swimming pools, and electronic/magnetic devices, require clinic appointments.

Finding a Canine Rehabilitation Therapist

As noted, the first step is usually a referral from your veterinarian, but you may be able to locate a practitioner by visiting:

CCRT Canine Rehabilitation Institute Therapists  

CCRP Practitioners – Veterinary Academy of Higher Learning

Cat and Dog Physical Therapy Near Me

CCAR Certified Companion Animal Rehabilitation Practitioners

AARV American Association of Rehabilitation Veterinarians

International Association of Animal Therapists

American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation

Most canine rehabilitation therapists prefer to work with veterinarians so that their patients receive thorough physical examinations and the therapist can consult the veterinarian about medical treatments or diagnoses the patient may require. At the same time, some dog owners have assembled their own physical therapy teams by working directly with canine acupuncturists, chiropractors, massage therapists, and other holistic practitioners. To find veterinarians who focus on nutrition and complementary therapies that enhance recovery and rehabilitation, visit the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association website, AHVMA.org, and click on “Find a Member.”

What to Expect on Your First Visit

An initial visit to a canine rehabilitation therapist begins with a physical examination that includes observations of the dog’s gait, movement, structure, flexibility, strength, muscle tension, areas of pain or discomfort, and mobility. The appointment may last over an hour, giving the therapist an opportunity to become acquainted with the dog and owner, discuss the dog’s medical history and behaviors, and review the owner’s goals for treatment and improvement.

Because canine rehabilitation therapists focus on mobility and movement, it may be helpful to video your dog walking or moving in different directions indoors or out. Also, if you can document specific injuries, accidents, or illnesses that have affected mobility, include their dates, diagnoses, and treatments.

The main goal of the initial visit is to develop a plan with whatever technologies, equipment, and treatments are appropriate. This often includes the recommendation of specific exercises to strengthen muscles affected by illness or injury. These are generally customized for the patient to include in an at-home exercise program. At-home exercise can be especially helpful for dogs whose hind legs are losing strength or who are recovering from accidents or surgery.

So that everyone in the family can support your dog’s recovery, a follow-up plan may include notes to share with family members to be sure that everyone can participate in the rehabilitation process and support the dog’s improvement.

Your canine rehabilitation therapist will keep detailed records of your dog’s progress, document specific therapies used, assess your home for how it may affect the dog’s functional status, develop exercise schedules for you and your dog to perform at home, evaluate the outcomes of rehabilitation plans, and schedule checkups to document the healing process.

What Do the Treatments Cost?

As with all veterinary visits, costs vary depending on the type of treatment needed, qualifications and experience of the therapist, and location. Initial consultations typically cost between $100 and $200 with individual treatment sessions costing $50 to $100 or more. The total cost for treatment depends on how many sessions are required. Home exercise programs and other do-it-yourself treatments help reduce costs.

Some pet insurance providers cover canine rehabilitation and other holistic/alternative therapies, provided the dog is covered before becoming ill or injured. This is why insurance experts recommend policies for young, healthy dogs, long before they develop the pre-existing conditions that deny coverage.

If you have ever worked with a physical therapist after breaking a bone, tearing a ligament, or suffering from a debilitating accident or illness, you know how valuable rehabilitation therapy can be. As an informed caregiver, you can be ready to help your dog benefit from the same hands-on approach by finding a canine rehabilitation therapist when needed.

Cerenia for Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
-
3
Cerenia for dogs is an injection for vomiting and motion sickness.
Not all dogs enjoy a car ride, and those that don’t may be battling motion sickness. Cerenia may help dogs with car sickness. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images

Cerenia is a lovely little wonder drug for vomiting in dogs. It works by blocking a neurotransmitter in the brain that triggers the vomiting reflex, and it works really well. Cerenia is FDA-approved to treat uncomplicated, acute vomiting (in dogs and puppies 8 weeks or older) as well as to prevent motion sickness (in dogs and puppies 16 weeks or older).

The Cerenia injection for dogs is a particularly fabulous therapeutic modality for acutely vomiting dogs. Sometimes when dogs are vomiting, they can’t hold anything down, including the medications that could help them. When your veterinarian gives your dog Cerenia by injection, it bypasses the GI tract, is rapidly absorbed systemically, and gets your dog feeling better as quickly as possible. Sometimes it feels like a miracle drug.

You should never use Cerenia without consulting your veterinarian first. There are times when the ability to vomit can be lifesaving for dogs. For example, if a toxin has been ingested or if the dog has an intestinal blockage. If your dog is vomiting, your veterinarian will take a careful history, do a thorough physical exam and any diagnostics deemed necessary to be sure it’s safe and appropriate before administering Cerenia.

Cerenia Dosage for Dogs

Cerenia dosage for dogs is different depending on what is being treated. For acute vomiting, the injectable dose is 1 milligram per kilogram of body weight (mg/kg BW). The oral dose for acute vomiting is 2 mg/kg BW. This means the oral dose for a 50-pound dog (22.7 kg) would be 45 mg. Cerenia comes in 16, 24, 60, and 160 mg tablets. Your veterinarian will round your dog’s dose to the nearest half tablet. So, this 50-pound dog would take two 24 mg tablets once a day for up to 5 days for acute vomiting. One dose lasts for 24 hours.

Cerenia dosage for prevention of motion sickness is much higher at 8 mg/kg BW. That means that same 50-pound dog’s dose would be 180 mg. Most veterinarians would likely dispense one 160 mg tablet for this dog. The dose should be given at least 2 hours before travel with just a little bite of food. Dogs with motion sickness do better without a full stomach. Again, each dose lasts 24 hours.

Side Effects of Cerenia for Dogs

Side effects of Cerenia for dogs are uncommon, but allergic reactions, decreased appetite, and drooling have been reported. Weight loss has been reported with chronic usage. Side effects are more likely to occur with the higher dosages used for preventing motion sickness.

Side effects of the Cerenia injection, again, are not common but include pain and swelling at the injection site. Caution is advised when using Cerenia in dogs with heart or liver problems.

Cerenia has been a super useful tool for practicing veterinarians who treat vomiting dogs on a regular basis, and a godsend for pet owners whose dogs get carsick when traveling.

As with other medications, veterinarians may use Cerenia off-label for other medical conditions, with informed consent from the pet owner. Some examples might include pets with chronic kidney disease or pets undergoing chemotherapy. Cerenia is frequently used pre-anesthetically to prevent peri-operative vomiting in dogs.

How to Comfort a Dog with a Fever

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
-
0
A dog with a fever can be comforted by cooling him down.
Running a fan for your dog can go a long way toward keeping him cool as the weather warms up and, along with water, can help get your dog’s body temperature down. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

The two keys to relieving your dog’s fever are hydration and cooling his body temperature. Encourage your dog to drink water by mixing some low-sodium broth with water and wiping a few drops on his tongue. If he is willing to eat, you also can add water to his food to increase his moisture intake.

To help lower your dog’s body temperature, apply cool wet cloths to his ears, paw pads, and belly. You can run a fan by him and put him in an air-conditioned room or car if you’re traveling. Note: Dogs can suffer heat stroke, which is an emergency.

Even mild fevers merit a call to your dog’s veterinarian, however. A normal dog temperature is 100 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.  A temperature of 103 degrees or higher is considered a fever in dogs, and 105 degrees or higher requires immediate emergency veterinary care. The most accurate measurement of your dog’s body temperature is with a rectal thermometer.

How to Identify a Dog Fever

Signs a dog has a fever include:

  • Lethargy and low energy level
  • Poor appetite
  • Panting
  • Shivering
  • Glassy eyes
  • Body feels hot
  • Runny nose
  • Vomiting

None of these signs are a sure-fire indication that your dog has a fever. And do not trust the old hand-on-the-forehead test, as your dog can feel warm to the touch if he is overexcited, stressed, or has been playing in direct sunlight.

The only way to verify that your dog has a fever is to take his temperature with a rectal thermometer. We recommend getting a digital thermometer as it will give you a fast, accurate reading.

If you are unable to take your dog’s temperature, call your veterinarian and explain what symptoms your dog is showing so they can guide you on the best way to proceed. While a mild fever is concerning, a severe fever or a suspected fever with other signs of illness may be an emergency.

How to Take Your Dog’s Temperature

Dip the tip of your thermometer in some plain lubricant or Vaseline, then gently insert it into your dog’s anus about one inch. We recommend having a helper to hold your dog’s head – most dogs tolerate having their temperature taken quite well, but it is still an uncomfortable experience and some dogs react strongly.

Once the thermometer has been inserted, press the measurement button. Many digital thermometers will beep once when they start reading and then again when the reading is finalized.

When you are done, clean the thermometer with soapy water and dry it before putting away. This ensures that it will always be ready to go when needed.

Are Ticks Active in the Winter?

By
Dan Muse
-
0
Ticks are active in mild winters, and if you skip on prevention your dog may get bitten.
A little cold weather won’t cause ticks to go dormant! Keep your dog on a flea-and-tick preventative year-round. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

Even the most obsessive dog owners may let their flea-and-tick guard down when the winter winds kick in to save some time and money. The only problem is that skipping your dog’s flea-and-tick preventative in the winter could come back to bite you and your furry family member.

 

 

Are Ticks Active in Winter?

It’s natural to wonder, are ticks active in winter? Yes and no. Thinking that ticks pay attention to the start and end of winter is a potentially dangerous misconception. During a mild winter, ticks remain active. And even during a normal winter in a typically cold region, a few days above freezing can reanimate ticks. In many areas, winters are mild enough for some tick species to remain active throughout the season, putting your dog – and you – at risk on walks or hikes.

Sub-Freezing Temps Slow Ticks Down

While most ticks may be dormant when the temperatures drop below freezing, fleas flourish indoors, so winter means little to these notorious bloodsuckers. They can attach to clothes, carpeting and more – and holiday travel may increase fleas’ mobility – and eventually these annoying insects will bring your dog a miserable winter experience. The point: You need year-round flea prevention, which is usually combined with the dog’s tick prevention.

Your Dog Needs 12 Months of Tick Prevention

Using year-round flea-and-tick prevention for your dog offers uninterrupted protection, preventing infestations before they start. Stopping and restarting medication leaves your dog vulnerable. Early intervention – such as a regular medication regime and tick checks after a walk or run – is essential for preventing the spread of fleas and ticks.

While admittedly less of a risk for dogs, winter ticks feast on deer and moose, which can potentially threaten your dog if she spends significant time in areas frequented by these large animals. It’s also rare, but your dog might inadvertently eat a winter tick while exploring an infested area and become ill.

Fight Dog Ticks Year-Round

Practicing year-long flea and tick protection is almost always a good practice, but if you’re insistent that you don’t need prevention in a region with consistently freezing temperatures and minimal indoor flea risk, discuss a seasonal approach with your veterinarian. Be aware, however, that some dogs with chronic illnesses may be best served by using year-round prevention.

When it comes to your dog, you can never be too conscientious. Most veterinarians recommend year-round protection but talk with him or her to determine the right approach, and possibly the right ingredients, for your dog. And, of course, take matters into your own hands and always check your dog for ticks, no matter how cold it is outside.

1...353637...390Page 36 of 390

Latest Blog

Gear that lasts and does its job is one of the best investments a dog owner can make.
Blog

A Thing for Gear

Nancy Kerns 5
It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.
© Belvoir Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved.