Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 326

Letters: 05/05

0

Report all adverse effects
Thank you for alerting owners to facts regarding veterinary drug safety in “The FDA, Drugs, and Your Dog,” (WDJ February 2005). Because of numerous documented canine deaths and serious illnesses secondary to administration of certain drugs, efforts are under way to promote stronger regulatory programs for veterinary drug evaluation, approval, and monitoring.

For these reasons, it is vital that any and all suspected adverse reactions to veterinary drugs be reported to the FDA. Cumulative data over many months may substantiate earlier reports and may also identify formerly undetected problems such as the recently identified link between NSAIDs and heart problems in humans. Reports should be made to FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine at (888) FDA-VETS, and can be filed by owners as well as veterinarians.

Veterinary NSAIDs can provide great relief from pain and discomfort in dogs. However, side effects are not rare, and can include gastrointestinal injury, kidney or liver damage, hematological (blood) changes, neurological effects, and others, including death. At the first sign of changes in appetite, water consumption, or behavior, or of vomiting, diarrhea (with or without blood), weakness, or any other alteration from baseline “normal” for an animal, it is important that owners contact their veterinarian, an emergency facility, or the drug’s manufacturer. Even minor appetite changes can signal rapidly developing gastric ulceration, for example, so quick action is essential. You should be instructed to stop giving the drug until necessary testing and/or treatment is undertaken.

The FDA has directed that the manufacturers of some veterinary drugs, particularly NSAIDs, provide a “Client Information Sheet” (CIS), outlining which animals are appropriate candidates for receiving the drug, side effects to watch for vigilantly, and appropriate steps to take should they occur. Unfortunately, many veterinarians do not provide these to clients when dispensing these drugs, as manufacturers recommend. Clients should ask if a CIS is available when receiving medication for their dogs, and request one if it is.

Dogs cannot tell us how they feel when given a drug, nor do they control whether to take the medicine. For these reasons, dispensing drugs for dogs is similar to dispensing them for children; vets need to fill the role of “pharmacist” by thoroughly instructing owners regarding potential side effects and steps to take if they are observed.

Owners, the only ones present outside the veterinary clinic to observe and report potential problems, need to function as part of the “team” overseeing the care of their animals. To do this, they must be educated about any drug dispensed. This education should come from their vet. If it does not, they need to investigate further on their own.

We all want the same thing for our dogs: comfort, well-being, and safety. This supports the urgent call for heightened regulatory vigilance regarding veterinary drug safety. I also hope to see an increasing “partnership in knowledge” between those who dedicate their professional lives to caring for our beloved animals, and the owners who entrust them to their care.

Kathy Davieds, DVM
Floyd, VA

———-

Even though I have been a subscriber for many years and a believer in alternative medicine, I took my 14-year-old Lhasa-mix to my veterinarian because he had started limping on his back leg – the same leg that had ACL surgery two years previously.

Up until he started limping, Choo Choo was an active, happy dog who loved walks in the park. My vet prescribed Deramaxx, which I dutifully gave my dog. I attributed his lack of appetite and lethargy to his bad leg and depression. When he had a bout of diarrhea, I didn’t worry because he sometimes had a sensitive stomach. Then one morning, he woke me by coughing and struggling for breath. I rushed him to an emergency clinic where they tried to save him, but my little dog died.

Afterward, I got on the Internet and investigated Deramaxx, and found I wasn’t the only pet owner whose dog died under similar cirumstances. My vet doesn’t hand out medications – a technician does. The medications are sometimes presented in a vial but mostly they are in an envelope. There is no information given on possible side effects or what symptoms to watch for. When I questioned my vet on this, he said if he gave that information out, people wouldn’t give drugs to their pets.

The drug’s manufacturer, Novartis, sent out warning letters to veterinarians regarding prescribing Deramaxx to senior pets. They recommended doing blood tests prior to administering the drug and warning clients of possible side effects. Was any of this told to me? No. All my vet said was that he gave the drug to his dog, and if he thought it was harmful, would he continue to do so?

It’s obvious that doctors, both animal and human, believe whatever the pharmaceutical companies report on their drugs because that’s how they were trained. Most know nothing about alternative treatments and are not interested in learning, either.

I will always blame myself for my dog’s death by not stopping the treatment sooner. Had I known the side effects of Deramaxx, I would never have given it to my dog. I will never again be so ignorant with the health of my other dogs.

Name withheld by request

———-

Go gluten-free
I read “Going Gluten-Free” (WDJ March 2005) with great interest. Dr. John Symes advises your readers with dogs – all dogs, not just those that show symptoms of poor digestion – to choose gluten-free foods that do not contain wheat, barley, rye, soy, corn, and rice. As such, it occurred to me that your readers may be interested in learning more about new Innova EVO, a grain-free, low-carb dry food that fits Dr. Symes’ recommendation to a “T.” More information about EVO can be found on www.naturapet.com or by calling (800) 532-7261.

Peter Atkins, Vice President
Natura Pet Products, San Jose, CA

———-

Wolf diets
In “What a Wolf Eats” (March 2005) the author stated that, “The wolves at the [Wolf Conservation] Center are fed dry dog food and fresh roadkill as it becomes available.”

It is the WCC’s preference to feed the wolves a primary diet of deer and other raw meats and bones. We believe that this is the most appropriate diet, and there is no shortage of road-killed deer here in the Northeast.

However, the WCC is only one facility in a network of 40-plus that participate in the Species Survival Plan (SSP) programs for the critically endangered Mexican gray wolf (Canis lupus baileyi) and the red wolf (Canis rufus). Each of these SSP programs has a management group that publishes the suggested animal husbandry practices for the facilities participating in the program. The management group for each of these species has determined that a dry food for “exotic canines” should be fed to the SSP animals as part of the protocol.

Since we are only one facility in a broader network of organizations working to save these unique animals from extinction, it is our responsibility to honor the rules of the SSP program. To accomplish the objectives of the SSP programs we feed deer carcasses and the dry food to these wolves.

The four Ambassador wolves at the Center that are not part of the SSP program are fed only a raw meat diet consisting of deer as the primary food.

Thank you for the opportunity to clarify this important point.

Barry Braden, Managing Director
Wolf Conservation Center
South Salem, NY

———-

Pets and PETA
“On Trial,” an article in the April issue about pre-market feeding trials conducted by pet food companies, and PETA’s opposition to these and all other lab testing conducted with dogs and cats by pet food makers, triggered not the most mail we’ve ever received in response to an article, but certainly the most vitriolic. We’re not going to bore you by repeating the attacks. Suffice to say about a dozen people (as of press time, anyway) cancelled their subscriptions to WDJ to let us know how they felt about criticism of the animal rights group.

It was interesting to us, therefore, that the total number of responses were almost evenly balanced, with about half of the letter writers expressing their opposition to PETA, and about half weighing in with unqualified support of the animal rights group. Here are some pro-PETA excerpts:

• “I support PETA in fighting cruelty to animals for any reason. I object to any animal living in a laboratory, regardless of any perceived benefit.”

• “I would like to, effective immediately, unsubscribe from WDJ. I found many of your comments regarding PETA and pet food trials selfish and shortsighted. For example: ‘We believe feeding trials provide information that is beneficial to the dogs that consume the food – our dogs.’ This may come as a shock to you, but I also have concern for other dogs that are not mine, as well as other animals.”

• “I know PETA is a organization with a controversial image. I believe that you should not look at PETA for their media stunts and what you call propaganda. I think that you should question why PETA would waste their money to break down a company that provides food for our companion animals. I do not believe that PETA or any other organization would just attack Iams unless they found something to attack.”

And in the other corner:

• “I am totally against PETA, even though I hate that animals are used in lab testing. There is no way that lab testing using animals is fair to the animals used for testing.”

• “You exhibited a great deal of patience with the PETA group. They are often radical liberals who will seek any opportunity to challenge nearly anything for the sake of advancing their cause. Their goals are notoriety and power; material facts and specific allegations of “cruelty” often take a back seat to those goals.”

• “PETA cares more about triggering emotional responses – and especially, about the financial donations they receive from animal lovers (contributions totaled more than $27 million last year) – than they do about working with industry to effect meaningful change. The improvements for lab dogs they forced Iams to implement seem to mean nothing to them. I give my money to groups that work for animals quietly and effectively, such as the Humane Farming Association.”

PETA, it’s clear, constitutes the third rail of animal journalism. But that’s not what the article was really about! Happily, we also received feedback demonstrating that the article helped some readers learn about feeding trials, so they could make their own decisions about whether to seek or avoid buying foods that conduct these trials:

• “As much as I love my dogs, and as much as I would do anything to protect them, I certainly do not want other dogs to suffer and die in the name of misguided science aimed at helping my dogs …

“Your article did an excellent job of presenting a balanced approach to the issues. Each month I learn quite a bit from WDJ on the subject that is most dear to my heart: my companion dogs. Believe me, there is nothing I appreciate more than solid information on their physical, mental, and emotional well-being.”

Assistance Dogs

Have you ever watched an assistance dog work? On the campus of the Virginia university where I attended graduate school, I often crossed paths with a student who used a wheelchair, accompanied by her assistance dog, a lovely Golden Retriever. They went to classes, visited the snack bars and cafeteria, hung out in the student lounges, and hoofed it all around campus together.

The assistance dog opened doors, picked up dropped items, pressed elevator buttons, and accompanied her owner everywhere. When you approached her owner, the dog looked confidently and calmly right into your eyes. She was the kind of take-anywhere canine companion that any dog lover would be proud to call her own.

What, I wondered, could this assistance dog and her trainers, teach family dogs and their owners about the secrets of her success? How did she become such a solid, confident, and reliable companion? Can ordinary people obtain a go-anywhere canine companion with the steadiness and confident demeanor of an assistance dog? Assistance dog trainers were happy to help me find the answers.

According to Brian Jennings, staff trainer for the Massachusetts-based National Education for Assistance Dog Services (NEADS), creating a great dog takes lots of time and planning.

A compatible candidate
Bringing home the right dog, assistance dog trainers say, makes the task of developing a friendly and reliable canine companion a lot easier. The goal is to seek a type of dog that tends to be constitutionally suited to the sort of environment in which it will be expected to live and work, and to find an individual dog who seems to exhibit the temperament and personality of a dog who will likely enjoy his new home and job.

For assistance dog work, Jennings and NEADS executive director Sheila O’Brien define what kind of dog they look for in each type of assistance dog:

• Service dogs help people with impaired mobility, including those in wheelchairs. Labs and Golden Retrievers whose calm and confident temperaments fit their job requirements often fill this role.

• Guide dogs assist the sight-impaired. More assertive Labs, Goldens, and German Shepherds excel in this mission, where more independent decision-making is required of the dog, who may have to refuse an owner’s command for safety reasons.

• Hearing dogs help the hearing-impaired by recognizing specific sounds, investigating and locating the source of sounds, and alerting their owners to the presence of the sounds. NEADS selects feisty, inquisitive, and persistent mixed-breed dogs, many with terrier or herding breeds in their heritage, for this high-energy work. O’Brien refers to these dogs as “self-made men and women . . . who need a job,” and often selects these dogs as adults from shelters. These dogs take initiative.

• Therapy or social dogs are often released from specific assistance dog programs, but go to live in nursing homes or with families with emotionally disturbed children, acting as facilitators for social interaction and therapy. The best candidates are exceedingly friendly dogs who thrive on lots of physical contact and affection from people, and are temperamentally “sturdy” enough to disregard a bit of strange behavior from the people they meet. These dogs can be from any sort of background – purebred or mutts.

Choosing your family dog
Imagine that you are an assistance dog trainer looking for a dog who will be as perfectly suited as possible to live with a certain family – your family. Think about what your family is like, and what traits a dog should have to succeed in his new job as your family’s dog.

For example, if you’re looking for a dog whose primary “job” will be to provide company for your elderly and not-very-mobile mother, you’ll want to consider types of dogs that don’t require a lot of exercise to be happy or calm, and who thrive on a close relationship with a person. There are a number of breeds, small and large, that excel as affectionate lap-dogs.

If your household is chaotic, with rowdy, active kids running in and out, you should look for a confident, gregarious dog who will cheerfully accept any and all visitors to your home and handle spontaneous eruptions of activity with aplomb. In contrast, dogs who tend to be nervous, sound-sensitive, or shy will have an uphill struggle to simply survive in your home.

In addition to understanding what traits you want in your new dog, you need to know what characteristics you definitely don’t want. If you have cats, birds, rabbits, or other small pets in your home, you definitely don’t want a breed whose predatory (or hunting) instincts are legendary. If your heart’s desire is a dog who will hike with you in the woods unleashed, steer away from scenthounds or sighthounds, whose talents may propel them toward new adventures, but not always with you.

If you are not familiar with the traits commonly associated with certain breeds or breed-mixes, do some homework. Attend a breed show and talk to as many breeders as you can about their dogs’ common personality traits. Tell them about your family and ask if they’d recommend one of their dogs for your household. Responsible breeders won’t hesitate to warn you away from a breed that is unsuited to your life-style; puppy mill-type breeders, of course, will place their puppies in any paying home.

Check out a breed book at your local library and pay attention to the part about the breed profiles that discuss the dogs’ activity levels, propensity for barking or predation, and reputation for trainability. Cross-breeds and mixed-breeds may display traits from all the contributors to their ancestry.

Once you decide on a breed – or if you prefer a mixed-breed dog from a shelter (and good for you!) – look for an individual who has a temperament that suits your family, too. Not all representatives of a certain breed will have equal doses of the breed’s hallmark temperament.

Lydia Wade-Driver, executive director and founder of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Assistance Dogs, says that a few simple interactions with a puppy or adult dog can provide clues about his temperament and personality. Does the dog approach you willingly? Does he enjoy being touched? Does he startle easily? Does he recover quickly after a scary moment? Does he respond to treats and toys? Watch for confidence without aggression, then, “It’s the whole package and a gut feeling,” says Wade-Driver, “That’s what I go by.”

Socialization is critical
Selecting for certain characteristics is only the first step to improving the odds of raising a great family dog. Developing that great dog’s potential after it has joined your family is where the rubber meets the road.

Assistance dog trainers often disagree about the best techniques for training, but the one thing most dog trainers do agree on is this: intense, well-managed socialization is the most important factor in developing a great dog, whether it’s a family pet or an assistance dog.

“Socialization definitely outweighs obedience,” states Kali Kosch, director of training for Assistance Dogs of America in Swanton, Ohio. “I’d rather have a dog who’s very well socialized than one who’s very well obedience-trained. You can do all of the obedience training in the world but, if you have a dog who’s afraid, you’re at a loss,” she says.

Even though the term “socialization” generally implies some interactions with other individuals, a big part of socializing the dog actually has to do with exposing him to inanimate objects and various environments. Assistance dogs are exposed to every mode of transportation imaginable, including cars, buses, airplanes, trains, moving sidewalks, elevators, and escalators. They are taken to noisy stadiums, quiet libraries, busy fairgrounds, deserted parks, industrial areas, and farms. The idea is to expose them to every sort of environment they might ever find themselves in – in a calm, safe manner.

It’s a big job, though, getting your dog out and exposed to a wide variety of people, places, and things. “I try to present the enormity of it to dog owners in a way that doesn’t feel that enormous,” says Elsa Larsen, president of My Wonderful Dog, a service dog training center in Portland, Maine. Larsen utilizes short, daily socialization and training sessions of two to three minutes each, a program most families can emulate.

“You can get a lot into two to three minutes,” says Larsen. Adding up the small increments of training time over the weeks and months makes the job appear larger than life, so she focuses on “eating the elephant” one piece at a time.

Larsen encourages owners to get their dogs out in public regularly, but to carefully manage the process. Proper socialization is not a free-for-all, she says.

Careful management
Jennings starts taking young puppies and adult shelter dogs to “easy places” to meet “easy people.” She defines easy places as quiet locations without crowds, such as banks, libraries, and malls in the morning. Easy people are sympathetic individuals who resemble the assistance dog trainers, or, for pet dogs, people who resemble family members.

The important part is to carefully observe the dog’s reaction to her experiences and environment, and adjust the process accordingly. Watch her body language for signs of stress such as tucking her tail, licking her lips, shaking, withdrawing, yawning, or losing focus. A little dog may respond with a fast heart rate – easy to detect if you are holding her. Start with short visits of no more than two to three minutes each.

Stop when the dog shows any indication of “too much too soon,” but don’t go home yet. Just return to a place where the dog felt comfortable, and allow the dog to regain her composure. Ask for one more “easy” interaction. Then go home. Jennings refers to this process as “habituating” a dog to different environments slowly and carefully, a critical step that family dog owners often neglect.

For instance, if your dog was fine when meeting adults outside the bank, but became agitated when children approached her, give her a quiet moment to rest, then encourage her to meet with a friendly adult or two, then stop for the day. This approach teaches the dog that exhibiting fearful or avoidance behaviors will not release her from a situation completely, but that she will have the opportunity to collect herself before continuing. Of course, lots of treats to reinforce steadiness are the order of the day.

Solid socialization arises from positive exposures to people, places, and other animals. “Negative socialization can do more damage than good,” claims Kosch. The dogs learn to feel safe in lots of places, but planning and constantly adjusting the pace of the program to fit the dog are the keys.

After a couple of weeks, the trainers graduate their dogs to “hard places” and “hard people.” Hard places include supermarket parking lots, city streets, and pet supply shops. Hard people are unlike any the dog has ever met before, and can include boisterous, active children; large, gruff men; heavily perfumed women; or the elderly. Repeat the process. Watch for signs of stress, and back up to the last point of success, if necessary. End on a positive note, with lots of treats. In about 15 trips, Jennings’ dogs show confidence, even in moderately hard places and for more than a few moments.

Most family dogs don’t receive this amount of managed socialization, with a concentration on positive-only experiences at a pace adjusted for the dog. Kosch reminds dog owners that it’s the quality of the socialization, not just the socialization, that’s important. Jennings adds, “Doing it right is a whole lot more important than doing it a lot.”

Focus on you
One of the most noticeable qualities of good assistance dogs is their focus on their handlers, even in strange places. Family trainers can get the same attention from their dogs by using a few simple training techniques.

For instance, Ann Hogg, staff trainer at the St. Francis of Assisi Service Dog Foundation in southwestern Virginia, teaches dogs to make eye contact and sit as a way of asking for permission to interact with a stranger or to get his dinner bowl. All good things originate from an interaction with the handler.

Fully integrated in the family
Another reason that assistance dogs seem to be so bonded with their handlers is because they spend literally their entire days and nights with their handlers. Completely integrating the assistance dog into the daily life of his adoptive handler allows the person to incorporate training into almost every hour of the dog’s daily life.

Both Hogg and St. Francis training director Karen Hough agree that the effectiveness of the training, however, relies on consistency among all members of the dog’s household. Hogg prepares a “vocabulary list” of training words to use with an assistance puppy, which she tapes on her refrigerator door. All of her family members use this specific vocabulary when they interact with the dog.

Hough is never without a treat in the presence of her assistance dog trainees and doesn’t worry about fading out the treats over time. According to Larsen, treats are the one constant in an assistance dog’s life, as he moves from breeder to puppy raiser to skills trainer to owner.

Time commitment

How much time does it take to perform all of this managed socialization and consistent training? Well, it depends how you look at it. At 3 to 5 minutes, a couple of times a day during early training, then adding 15 to 20 minutes a day when obedience and skills training begins, the commitment sounds reasonable, even for busy families.

However, Kosch warns against underestimating the time involved in raising a well-socialized dog, not only for teaching lessons, but also for planning the training program and monitoring its status. According to Larsen, it takes about 20 months to socialize and train an assistance dog. After the dog is placed with his new owner, it takes another year of work to develop into a close-knit, working team – a sizeable investment, to be sure, starting from day one.

Trainers encourage owners to watch their dogs throughout the day. If you do this, your time with your dog will be filled with on-the-spot training opportunities.

Lorie Long is a freelance writer and agility competitor from Virginia.

The Anatomy of the Canine Kidney

1

by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Put simply, the function of the kidneys is to make urine, a “waste” product of body metabolism. Of course, there is much more to the kidneys. They are powerful chemical factories that: • Remove waste products, toxins, and drugs from the body • Balance the body’s fluids and help maintain a constant body pH • Release hormones that regulate blood pressure and control the production of red blood cells • Produce an activated form of vitamin D that promotes strong, healthy bones Anatomy and physiology The two kidneys lie against the back abdominal wall, lateral to the spine, in the lumbar region. They are encapsulated organs, shaped somewhat like a kidney bean, and their size varies with the size of the dog. The functional unit of the kidney is the nephron. There are perhaps a million nephrons in each kidney, each one comprised of a glomerulus and a long tubule that eventually empties into the ureter.

The glomerulus is a congregation of blood vessels contained within Bowman’s capsule, and the glomeruli are located in the outer portion of each kidney (cortex). Blood is filtered as it passes through the kidney’s collection of glomeruli. After filtration in the glomeruli, the resulting protein-free fluid is passed into a thin tubule. The proximal tubule descends into the med-ulla of the kidney and then makes a sharp U-turn (at the loop of Henle) to return into the cortex, where it empties into a collecting duct, even-tually exiting via the ureter. The tubules are responsible for secretion of some substances (such as drugs and their by-products, uric acid, fatty acids, and bile salts) and reabsorption of a variety of other permeable solutes, among them glucose, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, urea, and some salts, notably sodium, chloride, and potassium. Urine passes into the bladder where it’s stored until it’s excreted via the urethra. Blood pressure is controlled by a complex interplay of hormones. In response to decreased blood pressure (as a consequence of chronic congestive heart failure or CHF, for example) the kidneys release renin. This is a proteolytic enzyme that acts on liver-produced angiotensinogen, which is converted to angiotensin I and then to angiotensin II. Angiotensin II causes retention of sodium and water, in part through stimulation of the synthesis and release of aldosterone by the adrenal cortex. Angiotensin II also causes vasoconstriction, thus increasing vascular resistance. Vasoconstriction and water retention place further stress on the already compromised heart muscles, and ultimately these conditions may also damage the kidney’s nephrons. Thus, angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors are widely used in treating CHF in dogs, and many practitioners include them for the treatment of kidney disease. The maintenance of the body’s overall acid/base balance also relies on a complex mechanism that depends on adequate respiratory and digestive function as well as kidney mechanisms. The kidney’s role in keeping the body’s pH within a healthy range is related to balancing the potassium and hydrogen ion retention and depletion and is especially important during hypoxia (when the animal is not receiving enough oxygen, either from poor respiratory function and/or a diminished supply of red blood cells). The kidney is both the sensor organ and the major site for the production of erythropoietin, the hormone that regulates production of red blood cells. Chronic renal failure is thus typically accompanied with a mild to moderate anemia. Bone health is reliant upon healthy kidneys in at least two ways. First, vitamin D is necessary for the utilization of calcium, and the activated form of vitamin D is produced in the kidney. Second, normal kidneys excrete phosphorous; chronic renal failure may lead to excessive retention of phosphorous, which in turn causes an imbalance between calcium and phosphorous. Vitamin D must be metabolically activated (via hydroxylation in the liver and kidney) before it can function physiologically; the conversion in the kidneys is the rate-limiting step in vitamin D metabolism. Occasionally the imbalance of calcium to phosphorous seen with increased retention of phosphorous may create a decreased amount of circulating calcium. Parathyroid gland hyperplasia occurs (to maintain serum calcium in normal ranges), and the resultant high parathyroid hormone (PTH) concentrations result in increased bone resorption, which ultimately creates thinning of the bone. Note here that the major contributor to the softening of the bones is an imbalance between calcium and phosphorous levels in the body. Rarely, the opposite of the above condition (hypercalcemia) occurs with renal disease, but the pathogenesis of this condition is unknown. Note also that calcium metabolism is involved with bladder and kidney stone formation, which often makes for complicated therapeutic decisions whenever we need to treat kidney disease. Notes about renal disease Renal disease refers to the presence of morphologic or functional lesions in one or both kidneys, regardless of extent. Renal failure refers to the retention of nitrogenous waste products of protein metabolism, regardless of the cause. Renal insufficiency is a term that has been used to describe a state of reduced renal function that has not yet resulted in retention of nitrogenous waste products. Azotemia (from the Greek azote, meaning “nitrogen”) is defined as an excess of urea or other nitrogenous compounds in the blood. You may also hear the term “uremia” used to replace azotemia, but uremia has now come to refer to the entire constellation of signs and symptoms of chronic renal failure: nausea, vomiting, anorexia, uremic odor of breath, pruritus (itchy skin), neuromuscular disorders, pain and twitching of muscles, hypertension, edema, mental confusion, and acid-base and electrolyte imbalances. Typical causes of azotemia are classified by their location: prerenal, from diminished blood flow into the kidneys; post-renal, usually due to a blockage of the “outflow vessels” (ureters or urethra); and renal disease that can be caused by a lack of proper function of any of the components of the nephron (the glomerulus or tubules), or it can be caused by conditions affecting the tissues between nephrons. Finally, to help determine treatment, practitioners also like to know if the disease is acute or chronic, and if it appears to be progressive or nonprogressive. Diagnosis of urinary disease Noticeable symptoms and signs of urinary system disease will, of course, vary with the disease and its severity, but the following general symptoms should make you suspicious of urinary system disease. Dysuria, that is, any abnormality of urination, including polyuria (passage of large amounts of urine in a given period), may be the animal’s attempt to compensate for diminished functional capacity of the kidneys, and it is often associated with polydipsia or chronic excessive thirst. Hematuria indicates the presence of blood in the urine and may be due to renal calculi, trauma, or destruction of the red blood cells within the body (this latter condition is more correctly referred to as hemoglobinuria). Oliguria (from the Greek oligos, meaning little or few) describes the secretion of a diminished amount of urine in relation to the fluid intake, and stranguria (from the Greek stranx, meaning “drop”) describes slow and painful discharge of urine, due to spasms of the urethra and bladder. Anuria is defined as the complete suppression of urinary secretion by the kidneys. It is an emergency condition whenever urine flow has ceased, whether due to kidney shut down (shock, for example) or blockage of the outflow vessels of the urinary tract (stones). See your veterinarian immediately. If renal disease proceeds to chronic renal failure, uremia results, and (as mentioned above) uremia produces an entire constellation of signs and symptoms. Other symptoms, seemingly unrelated to the kidneys, may occur with chronic renal failure: pulmonary edema and coughing, bone conditions related to softening of the boney mass, heart conditions related to improper control of blood pressure, and symptoms related to anemia such as difficulty breathing, exercise intolerance, restlessness, etc. Symptoms, even those that become evident when specific diagnostic aids such as urinalysis and blood chemistries are employed, may not occur until a very high percentage of the nephrons are not functioning properly. Perhaps as many as 70 percent or more may need to be dysfunctional before specific symptoms are detected. Urinalysis The primary diagnostic aid for kidney disease, a typical urinalysis includes the urine’s specific gravity, its pH, and the presence of abnormal amounts of substances such as protein, glucose, and creatinine. Important findings in the urinary sediment include red or white blood cells, crystals, bacteria, or other organisms such as yeasts. A functional kidney is able to concentrate (or dilute) urine to a specific gravity that is different from that of the blood plasma (circulating blood plasma has a specific gravity of 1.010 + 2); kidney disease is diagnosed when the urine specific gravity remains at 1.010 + 2, regardless of the dog’s state of hydration. Normal pH of the carnivorous animal’s urine is acid (below pH of 7), and it typically becomes more basic with bacterial infections. The consistent presence of glucose in the urine (glucosuria) indicates the likelihood of diabetes mellitus. The presence of cells or microorganisms in the sediment are indicators of infection or inflammation. Moderate amounts of protein in the urine signify that there is a “leak” in the glomerular filtration system, that the kidneys are unable to retain proteins in the bloodstream. See “Urine Luck” (February 2004) for more information on urinalysis. Blood tests Blood chemistry tests can also help diagnose some urine system dysfunctions. Renal excretion of urea is accomplished by glomerular filtration. Urea is also reabsorbed passively in the renal tubules, which means that its blood levels will increase whenever there are slower tubular flow rates – during dehydration or blood volume depletion, for example. So, one important result of the blood chemistry test examines the blood urea nitrogen (BUN) levels. Creatinine, a product of the normal metabolism of muscles, is excreted by the kidneys by glomerular filtration. Non-renal variables, such as excessive muscular activity, muscle necrosis, and possibly ingestion of a meal of cooked meats, may have a small and transient effect on the blood creatinine level, but it is still considered a good indicator for glomerular function. Creatinine and BUN assays offer an indirect measurement of the glomerular filtration rate (GFR), which in turn is a good assessment for the overall functional capacity of the glomeruli. Phosphorous retention results from declining function of the glomerulus, and blood phosphorous levels may be extremely high with chronic renal disease. Blood albumin levels may also be low due to inadequate retention of proteins, and the decreased levels of protein may lead to edema and/or malnourishment. A mild anemia often occurs with severe kidney disease (due to improper production of erythropoietin). Elevated white cell counts may point to infections in the urinary tract. A complete blood count (CBC) can help detect these conditions. Other diagnostic tests include abdominal X-rays, contrast studies of the urinary tract, ultrasonic exams of the kidneys and bladder, and renal biopsy. Some diseases (diabetes and CHF in particular) may predispose the dog to renal failure, so tests to rule these out may be needed. See “Passing the Blood Test” (November 2003) for more information on blood chemistry analysis. Prerenal conditions These conditions result from reduced blood flow to the kidneys due to such causes as dehydration, congestive heart failure, or shock. They usually resolve completely with appropriate treatment, but they may also progress to renal disease and renal failure. Renal conditions

Every practitioner will tell you that kidney disease is one of the most common entities seen in vet practices daily. Acute renal failure usually occurs following a major insult to the kidneys. Potential causes include vascular conditions (such as disseminated intravascular coagulation or DIC), immune mediated conditions (such as lupus), renal infections, and ingestion of toxins (such as heavy metals, aminoglycoside antibiotics, painkillers, and ethylene glycol or antifreeze). Once the instigating factor(s) is removed with specific therapy, and supportive therapy is instituted (for example, fluids to enhance flow through the nephrons), the kidney typically returns to its normal function. If the disease process is allowed to proceed for a few days to a few weeks, chronic renal disease may ensue. Chronic renal failure (CRF) presents a far more complex and ever-evolving picture. Therapy often must be adapted to the individual case and its progress over time. Basic principles of therapy include: • Determination of the cause of the disease, if at all possible. • Removal of potential toxins – including drugs that are known to be harmful to the kidneys. • Restoration of blood flow through the glomeruli. Fluids, given sub-Q, IV, or orally if possible, can be life-saving. Some dogs with CRF can manage a fairly good quality of life so long as fluids are administered on a routine basis – daily or several times a week. • Dietary changes to help bring the body and the urinary system back into balance (see nutrition, below). • Specific treatments to help counter the cause of the disease. Infections, for example, can be treated with antibiotics, herbs, acupuncture, or immune system-enhancing methods. Primary glomerulopathies are uncommon in dogs. They are often due to an immune-mediated disease that ultimately creates the formation of immune complexes in the glomerular capillary wall. These immune complexes prevent normal glomerular functioning, and the dog is unable to retain protein. The primary symptoms are frequently due to the protein loss: weight loss, edema or ascites, dyspnea (difficulty breathing, due to pleural effusions or pulmonary edema), coagulation disorders, and proteinuria. Severe cases can result in renal failure and uremia. Drugs are a prevalent cause of renal disease, and there are many that have been implicated. Aminoglycoside antibiotics are the second most common cause of acute renal disease in dogs (behind only antifreeze toxicity), and the frequency of toxicities seems to be increasing every year. Although their spectrum of toxic severity varies, all antibiotics in the aminoglycoside classification are nephrotoxic. Aminoglycoside antibiotics include neomycin, kanamycin, gentamicin, amikacin, and streptomycin. Many painkillers (including nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs or NSAIDs), chemotherapy agents, and many other drugs have been reported to be nephrotoxic. Some herbs have also been cited as potentially nephrotoxic, including wormwood (Artemisia absinthium); sassafras (Sassafras albidium); horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum); chaparral (Larrea spp.); and periwinkle (Vinca minor). Bottom line: Ask about the potential renal toxicities for any drug or therapy your practitioner recommends. Postrenal conditions There are several potential causes of partial or complete obstruction of the outflow vessels of the urinary tract, including tumors, enlarged prostate in the male dog, trauma that causes blood clots or eventual scarring, and uroliths or stones. Of these, stones are the most common. Generalized symptoms of constriction of the urinary tract include nonproductive straining to urinate, increased frequency of urination (without an increased volume), and blood in the urine. Symptoms may be present for a period, followed by periods of apparently normal function. Uroliths (also known as urinary calculi or stones) are crystalline concretions, found in the urinary tract, that contain mostly inorganic crystalloids, along with a small amount of organic matrix. Almost any mineral substance that passes through the kidneys could form one of these precipitates, and under favorable conditions, a hardened concretion could develop. Stones are named according to the predominate crystal found within. The most common stones found in dogs are struvite and calcium oxalate. Typically, when a dog has uroliths, crystals are seen in urine sediment. Depending on the stone’s size and mineral composition, X-rays can be used for detection; however, some uroliths don’t show up well on X-ray films. Laboratory analysis of the stones is needed to positive identify the minerals they contain. Some breeds are predisposed to forming uroliths, and some breeds are especially prone to forming a specific type of urolith. For example, due to a genetic defect in uric acid metabolism, Dalmatians are predisposed to urate calculi formation. With each type of urolith, there are predisposing factors that tend to precipitate the problem, and each of these factors is specific for the type of urolith formed. For example, oxalate crystals form in acidic urine, struvite crystals tend to form in alkaline urine. Check with your vet for these specifics, to help formulate a plan for treatment and prevention. Symptoms vary with the location and the size of the urolith. They include frequent attempts to urinate, straining or inability to urinate, hematuria, overdistended bladder, or signs of uremia. Uroliths may also be totally or periodically asymptomatic. They often cause secondary irritation and result in infections. Struvite is composed of magnesium ammonium phosphate, in varying ratios and degrees of purity. Struvite uroliths form in alkaline, concentrated urine, and there is a genetic predisposition for their formation. Medical management may be helpful and may even dissolve the stones. A medical protocol would include enhancing urine flow (diuresis along with plenty of water intake), production of acidic urine, and dietary means to reduce magnesium and phosphorous and (perhaps) to reduce protein. (For more on protein, see nutrition section, below.) Calcium oxalate uroliths, in contrast, must be removed surgically, since attempts to dislodge them by nutritional means alone have not proven successful. An acute urinary obstruction is an emergency condition that requires immediate care. Urine backup creates a toxic level of urea in the body which may, within hours, cause neurological signs and eventually lead to death. Your veterinarian may need to use anesthesia to pass a catheter to dislodge the stone(s) for immediate relief. Other urinary tract diseases Infections of the urinary tract include cystitis (infection of the bladder), pyelonephritis (kidney infection), and urethral infections. Infections can be caused by a variety of microorganisms, and they are conventionally treated with antibiotics or alternatively with herbs or other methods. Clinical symptoms include the list of urinary dysfunctions: hematuria, difficulty and increased frequency of urination, etc. Infections are usually easily diagnosed by examining the urine sediment for the presence of bacteria and/or blood cells. Culture and sensitivity can also be performed to determine the antibiotic of choice; herbal remedies typically have a broad range of activity, although their potency may not be quite as strong. While symptoms of urinary infections or obstruction may wax and wane, depending on the degree of obstruction and/or the amount of irritation to the urinary tract, you can often predict an event by observing precursor symptoms such increased attempts to urinate (with poor results), straining to urinate, or blood-stained urine. At the onset of these symptoms, I’ve had excellent results with dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale) and Oregon grape root (Berberis aquifolium), perhaps along with echinacea (Echinacea spp.) to enhance the immune system. Of course, make sure the dog drinks plenty of water and continues to be able to urinate freely. Dandelion acts as a diuretic and Oregon grape root has antibiotic activity; the combination is often enough to ward off further development of disease while we try to correct the problem nutritionally or with other medications. There are two problems of the urinary tract – urinary incontinence and conditions of the prostate – that deserve more discussion, but since they are more related to the reproductive tract, I’ll cover them in the next installation of the Tour of the Dog. The urinary system is also affected with a long list of physical anomalies, many of which have a familial tendency. Included in this list are renal dysplasia and hypoplasia, renal agenesis, polycystic kidneys, renal cysts, and some of the glomerulopathies. Neoplastic diseases also occur along the length of the urinary tract, and their diagnosis and treatment are the same as for neoplasias affecting other sites. Western and other therapies Western medical therapies for treating urinary system diseases are aimed at the following: removing or discontinuing instigating factors (infections, for example, or nephrotoxic drugs); improving hydration so that urine flow through the tract is optimal; providing nutritional support that minimizes stress to the kidney while it helps return the body back to balance; and using specific medications that apply to the ongoing condition of the patient. Alternative medicines can be helpful for treating many of the common conditions that affect the urinary system. Alternative medicines may prove even more beneficial for maintaining a balance of the “extra” functions of the kidney – the functions that help the animal maintain homeostasis. “Alternative” or “holistic” practitioners will try to create the same benefits that their Western colleagues expect, typically by using a more natural approach – with home-prepared foods rather than commercial “prescription” diets, as one example. A holistic practitioner will also likely employ one of the alternative methods to try to re-establish homeostasis. Nutrition will likely be the mainstay for the holistic practitioner treating renal disease. Holistic treatments will vary according to individual patient needs and will likely change as the healing process progresses. Nutrition Nutritional approaches to treating urinary tract diseases are fairly common now, especially since the dog food companies have seen the potential for increased sales. It’s important to remember that each type of urinary tract disease requires an individualized nutritional approach. With this in mind, there are some basics that may help you when you devise a diet for your dog. It is important to maintain fluid flow through the kidney, so the dog’s diet should either be moist or should encourage drinking lots of water. Some diets include salt to enhance thirst, but salt encourages fluid retention, which is not good for the heart. Excess phosphorous may speed the progression of renal conditions. Low-phosphorus diets are difficult to formulate, so most commercial foods contain “phosphorous binders” – substances that contain ingredients that remove phos-phorous from the blood. Some diets or therapeutic regimes use potassium citrate, an alkalizing agent that helps maintain potassium levels in the body and helps with the management of calcium oxalate uroliths. Antioxidants (such as Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids) can speed the repair of renal damage from disease. Vitamins A, C, and E can be used for their antioxidant effects, but these vitamins can affect the pH of the dog’s urine. If your dog has a history of or predisposition to stones, work with your vet to monitor the pH of the dog’s urine when you feed these supplements. B vitamin supplements can be beneficial, especially if diuretics are used to enhance urine flow. One of the most controversial topics in canine nutrition has to do with proteins in the diet of kidney-compromised dogs. Studies have produced conflicting results. In years past, we thought that we helped compromised kidney function by providing a low-protein diet. Not all current research supports this, however. Recent studies indicate that a low-protein diet (less than about 10 percent) may actually be detrimental when treating kidney disease. What seems to be the consensus now is that a diet moderately high in protein (30 to 35 percent), provided in high quality, readily assimilated proteins, is most supportive for long-term care of the kidney-compromised dog. What none of the studies shows is what most interests a holistic practitioner: How much “vitality” is contained in the food. Processed foods have almost no healthy “energy.” Raw, home-prepared foods have the dietary vitality that dogs evolved with, foods that retain their natural capacity to provide overall health and vigor. I have no scientific data to support this, but my guess is that an unprocessed diet that approximates the high protein diet of the wild canine will ultimately prove to be the best one for preventing renal disease. (Editor’s note: WDJ will publish an article on diets for kidney-compromised dogs in a few months.) Herbal therapies The list of herbs that may be helpful for aiding urinary problems is extensive. For starters, many herbs are diuretic, with a range of activity varying from slight to profound. Most conditions of the urinary tract benefit from an increased flow of urine, so almost any herb will be helpful in this regard. Further herbal selection depends on the specific condition – for example, one herb that has been used to treat kidney stones is bearberry or uva-ursi (Arcto-staphylos uva-ursi). My favorite herbal combination for non-specific urinary tract conditions, especially the recurring types that may be related to low grade infections, are dandelion root and Oregon grape root. Go, team! As I consider the various and sundry functions of the urinary system and how to best keep all its aspects healthy and functioning and in accord with other body systems, I can’t help but think that this is a prime example where a team approach may be the most beneficial. To be most effective, we need the diagnostic acumen of Western medicine, the services of a good, holistic dietitian (to help us provide the best balance by using whole foods), and an herbalist who is well informed on potential kidney toxicities as well as the benefits of the herbs. Finally, to provide the most beneficial treatment for a specific kidney disease, there will be occasions when Western medicine is simply more prudent and better than any of the alternatives available. Also With This Article Click here to view “Can Meat Cause Kidney Failure?” Click here to view “A Low-Protein ‘Kidney Diet’ is Not Always The Answer” Click here to view “Chronic Kidney Disease in Dogs” -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Download the Full April 2005 Issue PDF

To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Pets and PETA

1

by Nancy Kerns

Criticizing an organization that accomplishes good things on behalf of beings with no resources with which to help themselves – why would I want to do that? Actually, I hadn’t meant to – yet.

In the February issue, I mentioned that it had come to my attention that someone in the pet food industry was spreading a rumor that WDJ and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) were somehow in alliance. I have a good hunch that the rumor was being spread maliciously, to try to undermine WDJ’s standing as an independent and reputable voice. I addressed the rumor directly because I wanted to nip it in the bud, fast.

I mentioned that I didn’t know much about PETA, but was aware that the animal rights organization had a poor reputation among dog owners. I offer my sincere apologies; that was a sloppily written statement, and I knew better. I should have said, “among some dog owners.” Because the little bit that I do know about PETA is that there are a number of dog owners who can’t stand the high-profile group.

I know this because I’ve seen many anti-PETA statements posted on dog-related bulletin boards, and heard many critical comments about the PETA at dog-related venues. The criticisms I’ve heard suggested that PETA is anti-pet – that the group is opposed to the practice of owning dogs and every other type of animal. I’ve also seen a number of quotes to this effect attributed to Ingrid Newkirk, PETA’s founder and president.

Since being taken to task for my inaccurate statement by a number of readers who are fans of PETA, I belatedly educated myself about the group’s stance on dog ownership and use of dogs. I found no evidence to support the accusation that PETA is against dog ownership in the organization’s literature on its Web site (www.peta.org).

PETA does, however, disapprove of any and all dog breeding. One of its factsheets (“Companion Animals: Doing What’s Best for Them”) cites a number of sad statistics quantifying the numbers of dogs and cats put to death in U.S. animal shelters each year, and comments, “In light of these tragic statistics, no breeding can be considered ‘responsible.’ ”

It follows that the group is not crazy about conformation dog shows, which promote dogs based on appearance, because breeding has created health problems in many breeds. It is opposed to all tail-docking and ear-cropping.

I’ve heard it alleged that PETA is opposed to all dog training, dog sports, and use of service or working dogs. That’s not currently reflected in its literature, either, although the factsheet referenced above does mention the group’s opposition to dog sports and the use of working dogs when the dogs are treated inhumanely, pushed beyond their natural limits, sent into dangerous situations, and deprived of opportunities to socialize with other dogs.

PETA is opposed to all laboratory testing on animals – which is one place where the group and I disagree. My personal opinion – which is not that of WDJ or its contributors – is that it’s possible for labs to keep and use animals in a humane fashion, and that some lab tests involving animals are valuable and necessary. I would include feeding trials, which I discuss at length in “On Trial” (in this issue), in this category.

PETA has been a part of a movement that has improved living conditions for many animals. I think that’s commendable. Even so, I admit I’m not a fan of the techniques it uses to forward its mission of “establishing and protecting the rights of all animals.”

How about you? Do you think that any means justify the potential end of poor living conditions for lab dogs?

———-

Correction
In the March 2005 issue, we listed an incorrect phone number for Dr. John Symes, who advocates a gluten-free diet for dogs. The correct number is (251) 343-7110. We regret the error and apologize for any inconvenience it may have caused.

Pet Food Company On Trial

[Updated March 4, 2016]

In 2003, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) launched a media campaign aimed at exposing what it characterized as the cruelty, pain, and suffering experienced by dogs and cats that are used in laboratory research studies conducted by pet food companies.

One of the more unfortunate results of this campaign, as far as we’re concerned, is that consumers may have become convinced by PETA’s campaign that two important lab tests – feeding trials and metabolic studies – are inherently cruel. In fact, there is nothing innately cruel about the tests themselves; neither imposes anything more invasive than the removal of a blood sample on the canine test subjects. Also, we believe the tests do benefit the canine population at large. In our opinion, it’s how (and how long) the dogs are kept by the labs that could stand major improvement.

There are all sorts of other laboratory research studies conducted by the larger pet food manufacturers that push the envelope of “humaneness.” Some companies perform (or order a “contract lab” to perform) studies that call for a disease or health problem to be induced in a population of test dogs, such as a damaged kidney or cardiac problem. Then various nutritional approaches to improving the condition are tried. Some of these tests also require euthanasia and postmortem studies of the dogs; feeding trials and metabolic studies do not.

Research conducted to formulate foods that improve health problems has the most potential for inflicting pain and suffering on the test dogs. But it shouldn’t mistaken for what happens in a feeding trial to confirm the nutritional adequacy of a food – which is what this article is about. We’ll save for another day a discussion about the ethics and practice of conducting research that requires the induction of disease and euthanasia of the test subjects.

Definition of a Feeding Trial

It should not come as a surprise that pet food makers use dogs and cats to develop and test their products, and not just in a “He likes it! Hey Mikey!” kind of way. The most common test ordered by dog food makers is the “feeding trial,” a formal test where dogs are fed a certain food and nothing but that food for about six months. Feeding trials are conducted to test and – it is hoped – establish the ability of a food to keep dogs alive and reasonably well. When a food “passes” a feeding trial, its maker earns the legal right to include a statement on the product label assuring consumers that a feeding trial has established the nutritional adequacy of the food.

The “metabolic study” is another increasingly common test used by pet food makers. It requires that a dog spend at least five days in a relatively uncomfortable cage with a slatted metal floor, which allows technicians to collect every bit of the subject’s urine and feces. We’ll describe it in more detail below, but suffice to say it’s a common test, not invasive, but not particularly fun for the dog, either.

Sound like a case for PETA? The high-profile animal rights organization opposes all laboratory testing on animals, so it was perhaps just a matter of time before it trained its sights on the laboratory testing conducted by pet food makers.

However, PETA’s metaphorical weapon isn’t sharpshooter-precise; it tends to be more like a shotgun splatter of allegations of animal cruelty. PETA has taken the pet food industry (with a special concentration on one unlucky company in particular) to task for the all the research it conducts to develop and establish foods. (For more on the PETA campaign, see “Truth Is the First Casualty of War” sidebar.) But again, we’re going to limit our discussion to just two pet food tests that we feel are useful.

“Complete and Balanced”

Go grab a can or bag of your dog’s food, and look for a little bit of fine print that mentions AAFCO – the Association of American Feed Control Officials. The statement tells you what sort of proof the manufacturer used to establish the nutritional adequacy of that product. Pet food makers cannot claim a food is “complete and balanced” unless they can prove this in one of three ways:

• A feeding trial confirms that the food was able to maintain a population of test subjects for a determined period.

• A laboratory analysis confirms the food contains nutrients in amounts established by AAFCO as necessary for either “maintenance,” “growth,” or “gestation and lactation.” If the label claims it meets the AAFCO nutrient profiles for “all life stages,” the food must meet or exceed the requirements of the AAFCO nutrient levels for growth and gestation/lactation.

• A dog food in the same “product family” as a similar, “lead” product that passed a feeding trial may make the same nutritional adequacy statement as the lead product. To qualify as a “family member,” the family and the lead product must be of the same processing type (both are extruded kibble, for example) and contain the same approximate amount of moisture, a similar amount of metabolizable energy (as determined by a metabolic study), and similar amounts and ratios for crude protein, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, lysine, and thiamine (as determined by laboratory analysis).

There are three ways a product can earn its AAFCO statement, but only two different statements found on dog food labels: a “nutrient levels” or a “feeding trial” statement. That’s because AAFCO allows a product that meets the family requirements to use the lead product’s feeding trial claim, even though the family members didn’t pass a feeding trial. To complicate matters, pet food companies don’t (and don’t have to) disclose to consumers which food is the lead product that passed a feeding trial and which foods are the family members.

Feeding trials are considered by most veterinary nutrition experts to be the “gold standard” for proving nutritional adequacy claims – superior to the “nutrient levels” method of proof. That’s because it’s quite possible for a laboratory analysis to confirm that a food contains the amounts of various nutrients judged to be necessary for maintaining a dog, but for the product, in practice, to fail at that very job.

This is possible because not all nutrients may be in a digestible (“bioavailable”) form. Most nutritionists agree that feeding trials offer the most reliable confirmation of a food’s ability to deliver nutrients in a form that will benefit the target species.

AAFCO Feeding Trial Protocols

Of course, to be of comparative value, a feeding trial needs to be standardized, so all products that “passed” a trial can be considered equally adequate. That’s where AAFCO comes in.

Contrary to its official-sounding name, AAFCO is not a regulatory power; it’s an advisory body comprised of state feed control officials (the voting members) as well as representatives from the pet food industry, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), and other interested groups.

AAFCO researches and discusses policies that affect the feed industry, and drafts model regulations that feed control officials can bring home to their states for modification and/or adoption. Committees are appointed to study specific topics, such as ingredient definitions, labeling, manufacture, inspection, and enforcement; the committees then bring their analyses to the entire body for review and action. All of the individual American states enact and/or codify most or all of AAFCO’s suggested regulations for the manufacture and sale of animal feeds within their borders.

AAFCO designed the standardized protocols used by pet food makers to test the nutritional adequacy of their products through feeding trials. There are slightly different rules for different trials, depending on the claim the manufacturer wants to make for its product. The possible categories for dogs are:

• Adult maintenance
• Growth (puppy food)
• Gestation/lactation
• All life stages

We’ll examine each of these in detail.

Tried as Adults

For an adult maintenance claim, a minimum of eight healthy adult dogs (at least one year of age) and of optimal body weight are required to start the test. Eight control dogs meeting the same description are required for a control group and are fed a different food. While eight is the minimum number for each group, a minimum of 30 dogs must be monitored to establish values for “colony averages” of weight and blood test results before and after the trial.

Because a minimum of 30 dogs are required to establish the colony averages, the number of dogs used for both the control and the tested food groups are generally more than the minimum of eight. The distribution of different breeds in the two groups should be the same.

The adult maintenance test runs for a minimum of 26 weeks. The test diet is the sole source of nutrition (besides water, which must be provided at all times) for the dogs in the test diet group; the control group is fed a different food, one that has already passed a feeding trial for the same claim.

All the dogs are weighed at the beginning of the test, weekly, and at the end of the test. They also receive a complete physical inspection by a veterinarian before and after the test, and are evaluated as to general health, body, and hair coat condition. After the test, blood is taken from each animal and the results for hemoglobin, packed cell volume, serum alkaline phosphatase, and serum albumin are recorded.

Some dogs, not more than 25 percent of those starting the test, may be removed from the trial for “non-nutritional reasons” (say, one develops cancer or somehow breaks a leg) or for poor food intake (meaning the dog is not eating enough). Dogs can be removed for the latter reason only in the first two weeks of the test. A necropsy must be performed on any dogs that die for any reason during the test and the findings must be recorded.

The test food will fail the trial if any dog on the test diet shows clinical or pathological signs of nutritional deficiency or excess, or if any dog on the test diet loses more than 15 percent of its initial body weight.

The average weight of the entire test group is also taken into account; the food fails if the entire group’s average body weight change (from the start of the test to the end) is more than -10 percent or if it is less than the average of the control group’s body weight (minus an allowance for normal variation).

The average values from the dogs’ blood tests can also cause a food to fail. The test group must have adequate values for hemoglobin, packed cell volume, and albumin and must not exceed specific values for serum alkaline phosphatase.

A pet food manufacturer can employ the protocol for either a growth or a gestation/lactation study – both are considered more rigorous than the adult maintenance protocol – and still make the “adult maintenance” claim if the food passes the trial.

Finally, in case it wasn’t absolutely clear, feeding trials are not terminal; they do not require the euthanasia of any dogs.

Puppies on Trial

The protocols are similar for the growth and gestation/lactation trials. The major differences are as follows:

In order to make a growth claim, a minimum of eight puppies from three different mothers are required to start the test, with a control group of eight puppies from three different mothers. The distribution of pups of different breeds and sex in the two groups should be the same. A total of 30 puppies are required to establish colony averages. The puppies must be weaned, but no older than eight weeks, when the test is started. The test runs for a minimum of 10 weeks.

The post-trial blood test measures the same blood values as the older dogs, except for serum alkaline phosphatase, which is not measured.

The average body weight gain in the pups fed the test diet must be no less than either 75 percent of the colony average, with averages for males and females determined separately, or the colony average minus 2.33 times the standard error.

For gestation/lactation trials, enough females must be used to ensure that a minimum of eight pregnant females start the trial. The females must be in at least their second heat period and be at least one year of age.

There is no size or breed requirement, but the females must have been bred to dogs of the same breed. Breed distribution must be the same in both the test and the control group. A minimum of 30 pregnant females must be used to develop colony averages.

The test begins at or before estrus, and ends when the puppies are four weeks of age. The females are weighed at breeding, weekly during gestation, within 24 hours after whelping, weekly during lactation, and at the end of the test. The puppies’ body weights are measured within 24 hours of birth, weekly, and at the end of the test.

The litter size is recorded at birth, one day of age, and at the end of the test. Stillbirths and congenital abnormalities are recorded. Both the mothers and puppies are given a physical examination by a veterinarian at the end of the test and general health, body, and hair coat condition are recorded.

As with the other trials, the diet fails if any female or puppy shows clinical or pathological signs of nutritional deficiency or excess. Additionally, 80 percent of all the puppies that survived past the age of one day must survive and successfully finish the test.

Also, the females must gain weight during their pregnancies, and the average percent body weight change of the females – from breeding to the end of the test – can’t be too great. The litter size of the puppies in the test group must be at least 80 percent of the colony average, and they must have an adequate average weight (with respect to the colony averages) at the end of the test.

The required blood test results are similar to those required for the growth trial.

All the World’s a Stage

To earn the right to make the claim that a food provides adequate nutrition for all life stages, the product must pass the gestation/lactation trial and then be fed to the puppies produced from the litters whose mothers ate the test product in a growth trial. This is the most stringent test used to confirm a dog food’s nutritional adequacy.

However, while the term “all life stages” suggests a dog can eat the food from puppyhood to grave, this probably shouldn’t be taken quite that literally, since the inclusion of senior dogs is not required in any AAFCO feeding trial protocol.

A consumer might also mistakenly conclude that an all life stages food is guaranteed to benefit dogs with various health problems – dogs with poor kidney function, cardiac conditions, diabetes, etc. Not so. In fact, there are no AAFCO feeding trial protocols that prove a “medical benefits” claim.

Good, Not Perfect

The most significant criticism of the feeding trials method of providing nutritional adequacy – aside from the alleged cruelty of the tests, which we’ll discuss below – is that foods are tested for just six months. Many people feed their dogs the same food for years on end, unaware that there may be no scientific proof that dogs can thrive on the formula for years on end. Six months may not be enough time for the effects of any nutritional excess, deficiency, or imbalance to express itself to the point of detectable health problems in the test dogs.

AAFCO is cognizant of this concern. The serum alkaline phosphatase assay was added to the adult maintenance trial protocol in recent years, in an effort to detect calcium deficiencies that may not otherwise be detectable in a physical examination at the end of the six month trial.

As another example, there have been reports of foods found to contain levels of taurine that proved too low to prevent the development of cardiomyopathy in consumers’ dogs – after passing feeding trials. And the protocols don’t address the unique nutritional needs of breeds that are prone to genetic disorders that require specific nutritional therapy, such as Bedlington Terriers (which require a diet especially low in copper and high in zinc).

Another criticism has to do with the relatively small number of dogs required in the tests. As we detailed above, 16 is the minimum number of dogs needed to pass a feeding trial to prove an adult maintenance claim; this includes the dogs eating the tested food and the “control” group that eats another food. Theoretically, just eight dogs could “prove” the nutritional adequacy of a food that becomes the sole source of nutrition for millions of dogs. In actuality, the studies are generally more populous than the bare minimum required, but the more dogs that are used, the higher the cost of the tests, so it follows that no formula is likely to be tested on thousands of dogs.

It’s also potentially problematic that the lives – and therefore, the nutritional needs – of dogs in labs aren’t terribly similar to most of our dogs. Of course, as you’ll see below, we’d like to see the living conditions of test dogs come to more closely resemble those of our dogs.

Metabolic Studies

These studies have become far more common since AAFCO established a third way (the “family” protocol) for a product to earn its proof of nutritional adequacy; this method requires a metabolic study of each prospective family member.

Metabolic studies require a dog to be kept, for a minimum of five days, in a cage with a slatted metal floor. This floor allows the lab staff to collect every bit of the dogs’ urine and feces for analysis. The total amount of metabolizable energy in the food can then be determined by tracking the dog’s food intake to calculate the gross energy consumed and subtracting the energy in the waste products.

Life in a Lab

Now for the bad news. PETA is right about one thing: Life in a cage sucks for any animal. This is not quite the same thing as saying life in a cage is inherently cruel. But dogs are pack animals, and a solitary existence, devoid of physical contact with other dogs or other enrichment or socialization does not meet what we would consider a required minimum mental health standard.

And, while any individual feeding trial is just six months, and metabolic studies are just five days in duration, the “time served” by most lab dogs is at least several times those numbers. This is because labs tend to use the same animals over and over again in back-to-back trials. Lab directors defend this recycling, saying it’s surely better to reuse a small population of dogs for a lifetime of trials than to subject a larger number of dogs to just one or a few of the tests.

The good news is that dogs in feeding trials don’t have to live in cages. They can be kept in runs that have access to fresh air and time outdoors, in compatible groups or pairs, and have opportunities to participate in social playtime. Of course, as any kennel operator knows, this sort of facility is far more expensive to staff and maintain. Only pet food makers that really care about its test subjects (or at least, the opinions of consumers) will allocate the extra money for their test dogs to live in an adequately enriched and pleasant environment.

Under pressure from consumers – which can be at least partly attributed to PETA’s media campaign – both the pet food companies and the contract labs they sometimes use are beginning to discuss and consider improving the living conditions for the dogs in their feeding trials.

There have been a number of articles in Pet Food Industry about the industry’s need to improve the welfare of its test subjects. Several pet food industry conventions have presented speakers who made recommendations for lab animal socialization and enrichment programs. And most major pet food makers have published (or made available upon request) a description of their test animal welfare programs and goals.

Reform Still Needed

Unfortunately, this is not to suggest that everything is fine, now. Even the companies that advertise that they provide the very best living quarters, enrichment programs, and provisions for retirement or adoption of their old test dogs don’t invite confirmation of their claims.

For example, one contract lab, Summit Ridge Farms in Pennsylvania, has taken out ads and sent press releases to pet food industry publications, announcing the construction of a huge “puppy playground” and other innovations constituting “the beginning of a long-term environmental enrichment expansion” at its facility. A press release published in Pet Food Industry quoted Mike Panasevich, president of the company, as saying, “We are extremely happy and proud of our facility and the enrichment programs currently in place.”

However, this same executive wouldn’t return our repeated calls or e-mail messages to discuss these positive developments with us – not what you’d expect from someone who had genuine innovations to show off.

This opaqueness makes it appear that the industry still has a lot to hide. And, unfortunately, PETA’s infiltration of a contract lab has now afforded the entire industry with a convenient excuse to hide its work, citing security risks.

Throwing Down a Gauntlet

It seems to us that it would be in the best interests of pet food companies and contract labs to keep their test subjects as happy and comfortable as possible. We imagine this would help the foods produce and maintain health in the test dogs, so the products pass with flying colors.

But the companies would also be wise to do the right thing by their test animals as a marketing technique. For our part, we’d be thrilled to promote a pet food made by a company that could and would prove that its labs provide the best possible living conditions for its test subjects, with comfortable living quarters, plenty of socialization and exercise, and attentive veterinary and behavioral care.

One would think that a policy of openness and full disclosure at a facility that was truly doing everything right for the test dogs and cats would be a fantastic selling point for a pet food maker. But we haven’t found a company that’s willing (or able?) to take that challenge.

-Nancy Kerns is WDJ’s editor.

Teaching Your Dog To Greet People Without Jumping

Week 2 of my Peaceable Paws Good Manners class, I ask the question, “How many of your dogs jump up on people?” Generally at least 80 percent of the dog owners in class raise their hands. “Why do they jump up?” I ask.

I usually get at least one incorrect answer of “Dominance!” but most of my students realize their dogs jump up for attention. And because much of the time the behavior is successful, it’s a challenging one to extinguish.

Be consistent
Consistency is the cornerstone – and the bane – of training success. Consistent reinforcement of polite doggy greetings is reasonably easy. The tough part is ensuring that impolite greetings are consistently not reinforced. Even if you are very good at not reinforcing your dog’s jumping up behaviors, the entire rest of the world is pretty crummy at it. If jumping up is reinforced randomly, it’s very difficult to extinguish.

Paul (my husband) and I are very consistent at not reinforcing our Corgi for jumping up. Lucy is now very good at not jumping up – on us. She still wants to jump on everyone else she sees, so we persistently work on preventing her from being reinforced by everyone else.

I teach my students a three-step process for changing a behavior you don’t want. It’s perfect for applying to rude greetings:

Step 1: Visualize the behavior you do want. Instead of thinking, “I wish my dog wouldn’t jump on people,” have an image in your mind of the behavior you’d prefer to see: “I’d like my dog to greet people by sitting politely in front of them.

Step 2: Prevent your dog from being reinforced for the behavior you don’t want. This means taking appropriate management steps to proactively intercede before Bounder plants his paws on a guest’s shoulders. Your persistent removal of reinforcement for jumping isn’t enough; you have to convince the entire rest of the world to follow suit.

Step 3: Generously and consistently reinforce the behavior you do want. Simply ignoring an undesirable behavior leaves a behavior vacuum. Unless you generously reinforce an alternative behavior, your dog will likely default to the behavior he knows, that has worked for him in the past. Constantly be on the lookout for polite greeting sits. Be sure to greet your dog when he offers them. It’s human nature that we tend to overlook good behavior and respond to bad behavior. Turn that around.

Practice makes perfect
The three-step process sounds easy in principle. It’s not always so easy in practice. You’re most likely to encounter problems with greeting immediate family members, greeting guests in your home, and greeting people in public. Let’s look at how you could apply the three-step process in each of these scenarios.

Greeting family members
In theory, this should be the easiest of the three scenarios, since family members are around very frequently and should be committed to helping you change the behavior. In reality, we know how hard those darned humans can be to train! (Remember that positive reinforcement works well with primates, too!)

You can try several different approaches with family members. First, all must agree to stop reinforcing your dog for jumping, and must all understand that any attention at all is reinforcement. Making eye contact with your dog when he jumps up is reinforcing him. By pushing him off, you’ve touched him – reinforcement! Asking him to “Off!” gives him attention by speaking to him. Reinforcement! In fact, just the fact that his paws touched you can be rewarding to your dog, even if you do nothing else.

To avoid reinforcing your dog for jumping up, he needs to get the opposite response. Rather than eliciting attention, a jump should make all attention go away. When Bounder starts his lift-off, say “Oops!” as you turn your back on him and step away. If he jumps again, turn and step away again. Keep an eye over your shoulder, and when he stops jumping (and, we hope, sits), turn back toward him and give him treats and/or attention.

Meanwhile, use a tether to teach him a more appropriate greeting. You can secure your dog with a leash, but a more durable tether consists of a four- to five-foot piece of plastic coated cable with sturdy snaps on both ends. Attach it to an adequately heavy piece of furniture, or create a tether station by screwing an eyebolt into a wall stud and clipping the tether to it. Alternatively, you can screw an eyebolt into a 2 x 4 block of wood, clip the tether to it, and slide it under a door that, when closed, holds your dog in place.

With Bounder on his tether, approach from a distance. If he’s leaping about in greeting, stand still until he’s calm, then move forward. Anytime he starts to jump, stand still, or even take a step back. When you are close enough to reach out and touch him (but he still can’t jump on you), stand still and wait for him to sit. You can help him get the idea by holding a treat at your chest a few times, but you’ll want to fade the treat (stop using it) quickly so he learns to offer a sit in greeting without being lured. By the same token, don’t ask him to sit – wait for him to offer it. You want him to volunteer the sit in greeting, not wait to be asked for it.

When he sits, mark the polite behavior with a “Yes!” or the click! of a clicker, feed him a treat, and give him attention. Repeat this exercise until he sits promptly as soon as you head toward him. Many dogs will immediately resume jumping up when petted, especially if they have been allowed to greet people boisterously in the past. If your dog starts to leap up as you reach for him or pet him, simply stand up, take a step backward (out of his range), and wait for him to sit again. You may have to withdraw and return several times in rapid succession before he realizes that leaping up makes the thing he wants (attention) go away, and sitting firmly on his bottom makes it return.

Now have the rest of the family practice, all the way down to the toddler.

Of course, your dog won’t always be on a tether, but when he has learned this exercise he’ll be much quicker to offer you (and others) that highly reinforced “sit” behavior in other scenarios as well.

Perhaps the most aroused greetings occur when you return home after a long day away. Bounder is clearly thrilled to see you, and it can be hard to turn your back on such a sincere display of love. Our human family members should greet us with this much enthusiasm, day after day!

If you are reluctant to squelch your dog’s welcome-home enthusiasm, redirect it to a game you both can enjoy. Stash your dog’s favorite toy – or several – in a box just outside the door. Walk into the house with the toy in your hand, and toss it for him to fetch. Even better, reinforce polite greetings by waiting for a sit before you toss. The “welcome home fetch game” allows your dog to be happy about your return, lets you reciprocate, and still keeps his energy controlled and directed into a productive and polite outlet. It’s also easy to transfer to children and visitors!

You may have a family member who insists that he wants Bounder to be able to jump on him. Promise your body-slammer masochist that he can teach Bounder to jump up on cue – after the dog has learned to greet politely. That might motivate him to help with, rather than sabotage, Bounder’s training. Then, when the two of you are ready to teach “Jump up!” be sure you select verbal and body language cues that are very distinctive, and not likely to be offered by accident by an unsuspecting dog greeter.

Greeting guests in your home
Of course, it’s too much to expect that visitors will know enough to turn their backs on your dog when he jumps up on them, so it’s incumbent on you to make sure he doesn’t have the opportunity. Your tether will come in handy here. When the doorbell rings, calmly clip him to his tether station, feed him a yummy treat, then go greet your guests. You don’t have to worry about a door-darting dog, or one who blithely ruins your guest’s nylons. Peace of mind. Over time, Bounder may even come to learn that the doorbell is the cue to go to his tether and wait for treats!

If necessary, leave a tab (a four- to six-inch piece of leash) or a house lead (a four- to six-foot light line) attached to your dog’s collar so he’s easy to gather up and tether. Be sure to remove these when you’re not home, to prevent tangling accidents.

As your guests enter, hand them a few treats, and ask them to approach Bounder on his tether. Be sure they understand that they can feed him the treats and pet him only when he is sitting. Then supervise to be sure they follow directions.

When your dog’s initial excitement subsides, you can release him to greet your guests off leash. By then, you will have had time to instruct them on how to properly reinforce his polite greeting, and how to avoid reinforcing him if he does try to jump.

You can also choose to play the “welcome fetch” game with visitors. Put a large sign on your door instructing visitors to take a toy from the box, bring it in the house with them, and throw it for Bounder when he sits. Dog-loving visitors – the only kind who come to my house! – will enjoy this immensely. Remove the sign when you’re not home, so burglars don’t learn the trick of getting past your guard dog!

Greeting people in public
In public, your leash is the tether. Hold the leash, giving your dog only about three feet of slack. As people approach, keep your distance and the leash at a length that prevents your dog from lunging forward and jumping up on the passerby. You can, of course, reinforce your dog if he offers a sit. If the approachers appear to have dog-petting on their minds, ask (insist!) that they wait for him to sit first. If they say, “That’s okay, I don’t mind if he jumps up,” politely but firmly tell them that you mind, and that they need to wait until Bounder sits. If they ignore your instructions, turn and walk away with your dog, with a cheery “Oops! Sorry!”

If they are willing, you can hand them a couple of treats to feed when your dog sits. If they seem really interested, ask them if they’ll help you train. Give them a handful of treats and ask them to do several approach-sit repetitions to give Bounder more practice at greeting strangers politely on the street.

Fearful greetings
So far, we have presupposed an overenthusiastic greeter, whose behavior is best addressed with positive reinforcement and negative punishment principles of operant conditioning, where the dog’s behavior (a polite sit) causes a good thing to happen (attention), and jumping up causes that same good thing to go away.

Some dog owners have the opposite problem: the dog who launches a volley of defensive fear-barking at the sound of the doorbell or the approach of a stranger on the street. This behavior is best modified through the use of counter-conditioning: changing the dog’s association with visitors and strangers from “Bad! Scary!” to “Yay, treats are coming!”

You might begin by ringing the doorbell yourself, and immediately follow the sound with several tidbits of canned chicken (or something equally succulent and delicious), delivered to your dog’s waiting jaws, even if he’s barking. Repeat this exercise until the sound of the doorbell generates a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” response instead of wild barking.

Then have someone else ring the doorbell – someone your dog knows. Repeat the doorbell-chicken sequence until you’re getting the positive response. Then have the person ring the bell and open the door. This is likely to elicit another round of defensive barking. Feed chicken. Then repeat, and continue repeating until the doorbell/door opening sequence consistently generates the “Where’s my chicken?” response from your dog. Then have the person ring the bell, open the door, and step into the room.

Continue the progression, one small step at a time, feeding chicken at each step until you get the positive response at that level, then take the next step. When he’s fine with the person he knows, try someone he doesn’t know, or at least doesn’t know as well, until he can maintain calm when anyone enters the house.

You can do a similar exercise with people on the street. Set yourself up a distance off the sidewalk so people aren’t walking directly at your dog. The instant he notices someone walking in your direction, start feeding him bits of chicken. When the person has passed by, stop. Over time, as he associates people approaching with yummy chicken, his response should become calmer.

Important note: Do not have the other person feed treats to a fearful dog. His desire for the treat may overcome his caution, temporarily, but when the treat is gone and he realizes he’s too close to a person who scares him, he may bite. You need to first change the association by feeding your dog the treats yourself. When your dog is happy to have visitors and strangers in close proximity, then you can ask the other person to drop treats, or offer them gently using very nonthreatening body language: kneel sideways to the dog, hold the treat out to the side, don’t make direct eye contact or any overt moves to reach for the dog.

If you are consistent and persistent, your dog can learn to greet people politely. In fact, he will soon run up to you and sit as hard and as fast as he can, with as much enthusiasm as he now displays when he jumps up on you. After all, dogs do what works. If you can manage matters so the behavior you want is the behavior that works for your dog, everybody wins!

Hydrosols Used in Canine Aromatherapy

[Updated March 23, 2018]

Most essential oils used in aromatherapy are obtained by steam distillation, at the end of which a small amount of essential oil is extracted from a large amount of water. But that isn’t just any water, for the liquid that condenses after steam drives volatile material from blossoms, stems, leaves, fruit, roots, or seeds is itself an aromatic substance with significant healing properties.

That liquid is called a hydrosol, hydrolat, hydrolate, flower water, floral water, or distillate water. Regardless of name, hydrosols are aromatherapy’s hot topic – and for pet lovers, they’re ideal. They combine the therapeutic benefits of essential oils, which they contain in minute amounts, with the safety of herbal teas. Make that very strong herbal teas, for hydrosols are 20 to 30 times more concentrated than any steeped or simmered tea.

Hydrosols have become buzzword ingredients in cosmetics and skin care products, where they are valued for their pleasant fragrances, hydrophilic (water-loving) acids, and mild but effective anti-inflammatory, astringent, and antiseptic properties.

The most familiar hydrosols are rose water, orange blossom water, and lavender water. But these culinary and hand lotion ingredients are usually made from water and perfume oils, not by steam distillation. The difference is significant, for true hydrosols contain water-soluble components that never appear in essential oils. As a result, hydrosols are gentle, powerful, versatile, therapeutic, and unique.

Quality Hydrosols Are Hard to Find

The first step toward improving your dog’s health with hydrosols is finding them. Until recently, few essential oil distributors sold hydrosols, and even now they’re unusual. That’s because hydrosols take up more space, cost more to ship, require more careful storage, and have a far shorter shelf life than essential oils. In addition, all of the quality concerns that apply to essential oils apply to hydrosols. For best results, buy from recommended suppliers (see sidebar list) and treat hydrosols with care.

In her book, Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, Kristen Leigh Bell explains that the best suppliers identify hydrosols by species, country of origin, growing method, plant parts used, date of distillation, and other details. Most hydrosols have a shelf life of one to two years, so inquire about expiration dates. In addition, ask how the hydrosol has been stored, preferably refrigerated in sterilized dark glass bottles that receive minimal handling. Were preservatives added? Ethyl alcohol, grapefruit seed extract, and synthetic chemicals are common preservatives, but therapeutic-quality hydrosols are preservative-free.

Ask for samples. Good suppliers offer free or low-priced samples for tasting and testing.

Only Use Hydrosols That Have Passed A Test

“As soon as your hydrosols arrive,” says Bell, “wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water and pour a small amount into a clean glass. Hold it up to the light and check for particulate matter or a milky appearance. Fresh hydrosols are clear or have only a hint of color and should not contain a surface residue or large chunks or strings of particulate matter, all of which are evidence of a bacterial ‘bloom.’ Report spoilage to your supplier at once.”

Next, she says, “Smell your hydrosol. It won’t smell exactly the same as its essential oil, but it shouldn’t smell spoiled or rancid. Sniff carefully for any trace of alcohol. If all seems okay, taste it. The more you know about hydrosols and the more you use them yourself, the more effectively you’ll use them for your dog.”

Store hydrosols in the refrigerator or, if that’s not possible, in a cool, dark location. Some suppliers ship hydrosols in spray bottles, which prevents air from entering the bottle whenever you use it. Bottles that are frequently opened are easily contaminated.

Unlike essential oils, hydrosols are either slightly acidic like lavender hydrosol (5.6 to 5.9 pH) or very acidic like rock rose (2.9 to 3.1 pH). Suzanne Catty, one of the world’s leading authorities on these gentle yet powerful products, lists 70 hydrosols and their optimum pH values in her groundbreaking book, Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy. Catty recommends using special pH test strips – available at a low cost from home-brewing catalogs – to check a hydrosol’s shelf life. As soon as it arrives, check your hydrosol’s pH, and write this value on its label or in a notebook, along with the date. Report any questionable pH values to your supplier for a refund or replacement.

After six months, test the hydrosol’s pH again. Any value change of 0.5 or more indicates the presence of bacterial growth. Note that added preservatives affect a hydrosol’s pH, giving you another reason to rely on this method for testing a hydrosol’s quality.

Hydrosols are best replaced after their expiration dates. Use “expired” hydrosols that are still fresh in bath water or your dog’s shampoo, as air fresheners, as a dog bedding freshener, or in floor, dish, or laundry wash or rinse water. If you have plants that like acid soils, water them with expired hydrosols. Spoiled hydrosols should go down the drain or into the garden or compost pile.

Most Common Uses for Hydrosols on Dogs

Once you find a therapeutic-quality hydrosol, you can do all kinds of things with it. Here are some suggestions from Suzanne Catty.

To give a hydrosol in food or water, start with ½ to 1 tablespoon per day for a dog weighing 50 – 70 pounds. For toy dogs, give 1 to 1½ teaspoons per day, preferably diluted. For large and giant breeds, give up to 2 or 3 tablespoons per day. Adjust the following recommendations (based on 50 – 70 pounds) for your dog’s size.

For digestive problems, divide a daily dose of ½ to 1 tablespoon of coriander, peppermint, yarrow, fennel, carrot seed, oregano, basil, or rosemary hydrosol between water and food for three weeks.

For diarrhea, feed ½ tablespoon undiluted cinnamon bark hydrosol every 30 minutes for four doses, then hourly for four doses. “This usually does the trick,” Catty explains. “The cinnamon not only calms the stomach and digestive tract but also helps kill any bacterial cause of the diarrhea.”

For urinary tract problems, you can give your dog ½ tablespoon juniper berry, yarrow, cypress, sandalwood, or goldenrod hydrosol three times daily plus 1 tablespoon hydrosol in the water dish daily for three weeks. In case of infection, try winter savory, oregano, scarlet bee balm, or thyme (chemotype thymol).

For respiratory problems, give 1 tablespoon hydrosol twice or three times daily, and rub 2 tablespoons undiluted hydrosol on the chest and abdomen twice daily for three weeks. Try eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), inula, rosemary (any chemotype), thyme (any chemotype), oregano, or winter savory, or a blend of two or more. Catty recommends supplementing this treatment with the use of essential oils, such as a blend of equal parts ravensara, Eucalyptus radiata, and palmarosa, with a drop or two of patchouli or vetiver. This blend can be dabbed onto the dog’s bedding or diffused into the air with a nebulizer, available from aromatherapy supply catalogs.

For additional recommendations for pet use from Suzanne Catty, see Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy.

You Can Be Creative

One of the easiest things to do with hydrosols is add them to your dog’s shampoo. Try diluting a natural shampoo or liquid soap (one that doesn’t contain synthetic chemicals) with an equal quantity of hydrosol. Do the same with your dog’s conditioner, and add a splash of hydrosol to the final rinse water. The hydrosols of flea-repelling essential oils, such as cedar or rosemary, can help keep your dog flea-free. Where ticks are a problem, use any hydrosol that has a rose fragrance, such as rose geranium, palmarosa, or true rose – although true rose is so expensive and luxurious, you’ll want to save it for spritzing on your own face.

In Madison, Tennessee, Marge Clark runs Nature’s Gift, a leading supplier of therapeutic-quality hydrosols and essential oils. “Many of our customers have dogs,” she reports, “and it’s important that these animals not experience an aromatherapy overdose. A dog’s nose is so sensitive that exposure to essential oils might be painful. The hydrosols are safe, gentle, and effective. My dog, Max, is an 11-year-old, 5-pound Pomeranian. Because of his tiny size, I have to treat him the way I would a human infant. Hydrosols are perfect for him.”

Clark’s favorite hydrosols for canine application are yarrow for hot spots and other skin irritations; lavender, the all-purpose “must-have” hydrosol, which is gentle, soothing, relaxing, and antibacterial; St. John’s wort, which relieves sore muscles and other pain; and neroli, which alleviates stress and anxiety. Helichrysum is her best-selling hydrosol and, at $22 for 4 ounces, the most expensive. This powerful anti-inflammatory is best known for its skin-healing properties.

Jenine Stanley, who lives in Columbus, Ohio, with two Golden Retriever service dogs, has experimented with Nature’s Gift hydrosols and recommends three “essentials” to all of her friends with guide dogs.

The first is tea tree hydrosol, which provides most of the benefits of tea tree oil without the problems that oil can cause. Tea tree oil is controversial because its application has caused temporary paralysis in some dogs and skin burns in others. Organic tea tree hydrosol, which Clark considers “totally safe,” is Stanley’s favorite for drying, disinfecting, and clearing up oozing hot spots or lick granulomas.

“Tea tree hydrosol is also an incredible ear wash for killing yeast in dogs’ ears,” says Stanley. “I saturate several cotton balls and clean the ear as usual. If the ear is crusty or moist, I apply the hydrosol directly to the ear canal – outdoors to accommodate head shaking to clear the debris and liquid.”

Oregano hydrosol has proved valuable for cleaning cuts, insect bites, stings, and even hot spots that have become infected. “I wash the area first with oregano,” Stanley explains, “then apply tea tree hydrosol as a drying agent. Yes, your dog will smell like pizza, but he will be much happier without the infection.”

Her third hydrosol of choice is witch hazel. “It’s an effective drying agent,” she says, “and it keeps the skin inside the ears at an appropriate pH. Witch hazel hydrosol smells good, is soothing, and helps prevent what we affectionately call ‘swamp ears.’ As our two dogs are guide dogs, they are often in tight quarters in public, airplane cabins, elevators, and crowded store lines. Using the hydrosols keeps them fresh, clean, and free from infections.”

At Prairieland Herbs in Woodward, Iowa, Maggie Julseth Howe and Donna Julseth experiment with hydrosols daily. “My Great Pyrenees had chronically ‘dirty’ ears,” says Howe, “and comfrey hydrosol was a wonderfully gentle way to keep them clean. We have also used comfrey hydrosol as an eyewash – not on our dogs, because the occasion has not arisen, but on kittens and a horse, with wonderful results.”

Bathing her Great Pyrenees is such an undertaking that Howe uses other means whenever possible. “A good brushing and a few spritzes of lemon balm hydrosol do wonders for coat shine and smell,” she says. “Commercial dog sprays send her running for the nearest patch of dirt to roll in, but like most dogs, she seems to tolerate the gentle, all-natural scent of hydrosols much better. Last but not least, a light spritz of a mint or other pleasantly scented hydrosol is a great way to freshen up a dog’s favorite bed or sleeping place, or even your couch or car seats.”

Finding Reliable Hydrosol Sources

According to Suzanne Catty, the major problem relating to hydrosols is not contamination, but rather fake or synthetic products sold as hydrosols, real hydrosols to which preservatives and/or stabilizers have been added, or real hydrosols that were improperly collected at distillation, resulting in nontherapeutic, unstable, and only slightly aromatic waters. “True therapeutic hydrosols that are free from preservatives, alcohol, or stabilizers and properly handled are a healing boon for animals of all kinds,” Catty says.

Suppliers find these hydrosols through research, networking, testing, and trial and error.

“If I love a distiller’s hydrosols,” says Marge Clark, “I’m a loyal and enthusiastic customer forever. I never, ever, make a sourcing decision based on price. I’ve done that and regretted it! We have the majority of our oils tested by a well-known chemist with gas chromatography and mass spectrometry, assuring that an essential oil is not adulterated, that it falls within the ‘expected range’ for components. But that testing will not distinguish between a so-so specimen and an extraordinary one. Personal selection makes that distinction, and it involves looking for intangibles, like the vibrancy or life in the aroma. Sometimes there is an energetic difference that can be felt.”

We recommend that you start with suppliers listed below and learn everything you can from them. They are generous with information, recommendations, and suggestions – and they sell superior-quality hydrosols, everything from familiar lavender to rare “boutique” hydrosols like cardamom or comfrey. The only factor that will interfere with your hydrosol collection is availability, for hydrosols are seasonal items that often sell out. When that happens, you have to wait for the next distillation.

Are any hydrosols potentially dangerous for dogs? Clark suggests avoiding the topical application of Australian lemon myrtle (Backhausia citriodora) because this powerful antibacterial hydrosol, which is best used as a room spray, can irritate the skin. “We don’t use it on our own skin,” she says, “so I wouldn’t use it on my dog’s.”

Hydrosols are still so new on the aromatherapy scene that discoveries about their benefits are being made every day. You and your dog can be in the forefront of this exciting new therapy.

HYDROSOLS FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Use a hydrosol for a gentle, effective treatment that can complement your dog’s conventional care.

2. Buy products only from reputable sources; test the quality (with pH test papers) regardless of the source.

3. Use hydrosols as a topical mist, dropped directly into your dog’s mouth, in her food and water, and/or in her shampoo.

4. Keep track of the hydrosol’s expiration date. Discard and replace expired products.

Also With This Article
“Aromatherapy For Dogs”
“Roses Have Holistic Value for Dogs”
“Is Your Dog Afraid of Thunder?”

CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care (Keats/McGraw-Hill) and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats (Gramercy/Random House). She also wrote the foreword for Kristen Leigh Bell’s Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals.

March 2005 Letters

0

Good Timing
This is just a heartfelt, appreciative, giant, THANK YOU for an article in the January 2005 issue, “What Promotes Bloat?”

We have lived with Dobermans for more than 30 years. Most have been lucky enough to become champions (owner-handled) in the conformation or obedience ring. We thought we had experienced every sort of emergency in our many years with these wonderful spirits.

The January issue arrived, and for some reason, I quickly perused the article on bloat. As the fates would have it, not two days later, on a Saturday night during the holidays (of course) our youngest bitch (six years), Zen, was starting to exhibit a lot of restlessness. I completed several minor tasks that evening, keeping her in sight. A half hour had passed, and as I walked down the hall toward her, the “symptoms” box from the article flashed in my mind. I felt her abdomen and sides, reached for my purse and car keys, and informed my husband that we were all going to the emergency vet.

By 9 pm, Zen was in surgery for – you guessed it – torsion plus bloat. The surgeon “tacked” her stomach so that it wouldn’t happen again. I can tell you for a fact that we would not have acted as quickly as we did had I not read that article in WDJ. Zen was home in 48 hours, her staples were removed 10 days later, and she is back to being her mischievous self again.

Judith Segale
via e-mail

Timing is everything, isn’t it? We’re happy to have had such luck in publishing the article at the ideal time for your family.

———-

Dry Food Review
I just read the review of dry dog foods (“Why We Like Whole Foods,” February 2005). Only the newest additions to your “approved” list were described in detail. The past selections to your “approved list” were listed but not described. Also, the top favorites were not ranked. Which foods are considered the best? In the past, I thought you listed the top five.

Teesh Rayner
via e-mail

We first reviewed dry foods in our second issue, published in April 1998. Every year since then, we’ve published our annual dry food review in the February issue. In 1999, we first used the phrase “Top 10 Dry Dog Foods.” We didn’t rank those “top 10” foods; we presented them as equals in alphabetical order. We repeated the format in 2000.

By 2001, the “premium” dog food revolution was well underway; this segment of the pet food market had markedly expanded and the number of foods we knew that met our selection criteria had increased way past 10. That was the year we stopped using the phrase “top 10.” We did this for the same reason we have never rank-ordered our selections, and the reason we’ll never say which food is “best.”

Our goal is to steer you into the right part of the pet supply store – to help you identify the hallmarks of the high-quality foods from among which you should select the “best” for your dog.

There is NO “best” for ALL dogs. We’re just trying to get you in the right ballpark, where you can test the various top-quality options on your dog. We might have a long-standing affection for a certain beef and barley food, based on its apparent quality and its positive effect on our own dogs. But there’s no way that food would be “best” for a dog who is allergic to beef!

Regarding detailed descriptions of all the foods on our new and past “approved” lists: There are almost 50 foods on our “approved” list, and we’ve described some of them several times. We hate to take up space repeating the same information to our long-term subscribers, but we appreciate the dilemma this poses for newer readers. In the future, we’ll try to find a way to include descriptions of all past selections.

———-

Corrections
There were several errors in “Matters of the Heart” (February 2005):

• The descriptions of the mitral and tricuspid valves were switched. The mitral valve separates the left atrium from the left ventricle; the tricuspid valve separates the right atrium from the right ventricle. Thanks to Berklee Robins, MD, for noting this error.

• The descriptions of certain Omega fatty acids were also switched. Linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid are Omega-6s. These are found in raw nuts, seeds, legumes, borage, grapeseed, primrose, and sesame. Alpha-linolenic acid and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) are Omega-3s. Soybeans contain both Omega-3 and Omega-6 EFAs. Thanks to Certified Tellington TTouch Practitioner Claudeen E. Mc Auliffe, MS, for alerting us to these errors.

• Finally, an editing error led at least one reader to worry that the amino acids taurine and carnitine can cause heart conditions in dogs. It is actually a lack of taurine that can cause dilated cardiomyopathy in cats; similar problems have not been reported in dogs. A carnitine deficiency has been implicated in heart disease in humans, and there is evidence that it may also be involved in occasional canine heart problems. We regret the errors.

Download the Full March 2005 Issue PDF

To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Gut Check

0

There’s another foster puppy in my house, but the impulse to foster again is being sorely tested by this one – through no fault of her own. This puppy needed an emergency placement in a foster home because she failed the temperament test required to make it onto the adoption row of a very crowded local shelter. The problem was that she’s very undersocialized and shy.

Okay, no problem. My family and even my neighbors are helping me implement a thorough remedial socialization program. And she’s responding fantastically, gaining confidence and poise by the hour.

The factor testing my resolve to foster any additional dogs is a health issue. And one that is, I’m told, very common, although I’ve never had a dog with a case this severe: WORMS.

The last puppy I fostered was given a conventional deworming medication, and passed a hefty amount (it seemed to me) of dead worms in her feces the next day. I repeated the deworming medication three days later, as per the directions, but I didn’t see any other worms. The process was gross, but quick.

This (about) five-month-old pup, another mixed-breed, black female, had the telltale signs of worms when she got here a week ago: bits of what looked like white rice stuck to the hair under her tail. Yikes! Into the bath she went. Down her throat went the dewormer.

The next day, though, I didn’t see any dead worms in her feces. Nor the next day. On day three, when I was supposed to give her another dose of the dewormer, I saw lots of LIVE, wiggling white things in her stool. This discovery had me squealing and doing a tap-dance of disgust and anxiety as I picked up the infested poop in a plastic bag. And then washed my already clean hands five times. And then gave the poor pup her second dose of dewormer.

The next evening, I looked down to smile at the puppy’s cute pose as she napped, on her back and with all four feet in the air, on the carpet next to my office chair – and I saw more LIVE wriggling worm eggs crawling around her anus. Shriek!

The horror the day after that came when I picked up her water bowl to pour it out and replace it with fresh, and saw several of the rice-grains floating in the bowl.

Writing about this, even a few days later, gives me chills. I’m one of those suggestible people who hears the word “flea” and starts imagining I feel something crawling in my socks or biting in my hair. Having this poor worm-plagued baby around is making me feel infested myself. I swear my stomach is upset – although nothing like her tummy must be!

Well, she’s going to the vet tomorrow to be spayed. I’ll let him know about her tribulations and ask for something extra-strength. Then I’ll go home and shampoo my office carpet (where the pup spends most of her time) and wash her bedding. I’ve been assiduous about picking up all of her feces, but I still feel like taking a flamethrower to my backyard.

I’m sure I’ll get over my imaginary case of worms, as I’m sure the puppy will get over her very real one. But it certainly didn’t help that, coincidentally, much of this issue has to do with normal and abnormal digestion. Ugh.

The good news: If owners take our holistic health advisors’ advice, their dogs won’t have problems like the ones described here or anywhere in this issue.

 

-Nancy Kerns

What Should Your Dog Eat?

0

by CJ Puotinen

Few topics excite the passions of dog lovers as much as food. Should dogs eat meat? Bones? Fruits? Vegetables? Grains? Dairy? Should their food be commercially prepared? Home-prepared? Raw? Cooked? Fresh? Frozen? Should dogs eat what people eat? What dogs in the wild eat? Whatever the choice, is it safe? Is it dangerous?

For thousands of years, domesticated dogs ate whatever their humans fed them plus whatever they could find on their own. No one worried about fat/protein ratios, the role of carbohydrates, or how much calcium is too much.

288

For help in planning the ideal canine menu, some turn to canine species in the wild, especially wolves. But even here there is confusion and misinformation. What exactly do wolves eat?

To find out, Melinda Miller, who consults to veterinarians, pet supply stores, pet food companies, and the Wolf Conservation Center of South Salem, New York, invited one of the world’s most respected experts on the wolf, David Mech, Ph.D., to present a seminar about what wolves eat.

Since 1958, Dr. Mech (pronounced Meech) has studied wolves, first on Isle Royale in Lake Superior in Minnesota, then in Canada, Italy, Alaska, and Yellowstone National Park. A founding board member of the International Wolf Center in Ely, Minnesota, he is an internationally recognized expert on wolf ecology and behavior, predator-prey relations, and wolf population regulation. Mech’s latest book, coedited with Luigi Boitani and published in November 2003, is the encyclopedic and definitive Wolves: Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation.

Dr. Mech has been a senior research scientist for the U.S. Department of the Interior since 1970 and is an adjunct professor at the University of Minnesota. His research in Denali National Park in Alaska measured the interactions between wolves, caribou, moose, and Dall sheep. On Ellesmere Island in Canada’s Northwest Territories, which is so remote that its wolves are unusually tame, he documents the interactions of pack members and their pups around their den, plus wolf interactions with musk-oxen and Arctic hares. His research in Yellowstone National Park involves the interactions of wolves with their prey.

All of Dr. Mech’s research involves the gray wolf, Canis lupus. Gray wolves live throughout Europe, Asia, and North America, and it was from this species of wolf that the dog was domesticated.

On September 25, 2004, Dr. Mech presented a “what wolves eat” seminar in New York. It was attended by about 100 people, some of whom had traveled from New Zealand, Denmark, Quebec, Ontario, Texas, California, and the Midwest.

No consensus yet
Dr. Mech began his seminar by asking the audience which animal on the planet has been most researched with regard to health and diet. The answer? Human beings. But despite decades of intense study, scientists have yet to prove that any one diet is ideal.

“If science doesn’t have definite answers regarding human health,” said Dr. Mech, “it certainly doesn’t have them regarding dogs and wolves. There is simply too much that we don’t know. In addition, dogs were domesticated from wolves somewhere between 13,000 and 100,000 years ago, so their diets should not necessarily be the same.”

What scientists do know about wolves, he said, is that they are opportunistic omnivores. Left to their own devices, they will eat whatever they can whenever they can.

“This varies by location, season, and conditions,” he explained, “so wolves in one place may have a radically different diet from wolves in another. Their preference is freshly killed meat, but when that’s not available, they’ll eat anything that could remotely be considered edible.

“For example, there are few prey animals in Italy or Israel. Most people don’t even know that wolves live in those countries, but they do, and they eat whatever humans throw away. In Italy, there are about 500 wolves and around 500,000 feral dogs, and they have the same basic diet – whatever they can scrounge from garbage cans and local dumps, as well as whatever livestock they can kill.”

In the wild, says Dr. Mech, wolves hunt live prey. In British Columbia, where game is abundant, that includes moose, bison, wild hare, two types of deer, goats, mountain sheep, elk, caribou, and assorted small animals. In other locations, there may be only a single prey species.

“Any variety is provided by circumstances, not by conscious effort, and some wolves have thrived for decades or even hundreds of years on a monotonous diet of one or two prey animals,” said Dr. Mech. “Yellowstone’s wolves are at the high end of the wolf prosperity scale, for elk are so abundant in the park that wolves eat whenever they’re hungry. Wolves in other areas go through periods of feast and famine.”

The wolves’ work day begins in the early evening, and they will typically hunt all night, then sleep from mid-morning to late afternoon. If fully fed, they may sleep for 12 hours or more. If hungry, wolves hunt all day, often traveling 15 to 30 miles or more in search of prey. Although they usually hunt in packs, single wolves acting alone have been recorded killing all of the wolf’s large prey, including moose, bison, and musk-oxen.

What’s for dinner?
What does the average adult wolf eat? That’s hard to say because wolves are difficult to observe. When fitted with radio transmitter collars and tracked by aircraft, at least a few wolves can be monitored. “We have a good idea of what those wolves eat during winter months because they’re easy to find when there’s snow on the ground,” Dr. Mech explained. “Assuming there is sufficient game, they eat an average of two to ten pounds of meat per wolf per day. In summer, no one knows, but I expect the totals are similar.”

Those figures are averages, said Dr. Mech, because wolves eat as much as possible at every opportunity. An 80-pound wolf can eat 22 pounds of meat in one sitting. When game is scarce, wolves can go for weeks, even months without eating. If sufficiently fat at the outset, a wolf can fast for up to six months.

According to Dr. Mech, wolves that live in areas populated by large prey (such as elk or caribou) kill mostly old, maimed, sick, or very young animals, such as newborn calves. “I wouldn’t say that a wolf could never kill a healthy adult. But it’s more likely that an adult animal that appears healthy and is brought down by a wolf is not as healthy as other animals in the herd. It may have been deaf, for example, or had a malnourished grandmother. Starvation is a hazard that all animals face, and malnutrition affects two or more generations.”

Wolves that hunt large prey have to be careful because they risk their lives every time they attack. “Elk, moose, and other large animals can and do kill wolves,” he said. “All it takes is a well-placed kick. One of the most interesting findings of our research was the very low percentage of successful wolf attacks. You think of wolves as killing machines, and they are, but wolves may chase a hundred or more prey animals before they succeed in bringing one down. That’s why it makes sense for wolves to study the herds, watching for anything out of the ordinary – an elk that doesn’t hold his head high, for example, or one with a limp.”

These shopping expeditions were easy to see in the videos Dr. Mech showed of Yellowstone wolves trotting through elk herds. From time to time they would chase an elk, testing the animal’s strength and resilience, and when they chose a target, the animal was easy to spot, for its posture and gait didn’t match that of the rest of the herd.

Much has been made of wolves’ tendency to kill more than they can consume, but this “surplus killing,” as it is called, is not as wasteful as it first appears.

“Wolves can’t eat more than their stomachs can hold,” explained Dr. Mech, “but they store the excess by burying it in a cache, a hole in the ground, for later consumption. The contents of a cache can be half a calf, the leg or bones of an adult elk, or even regurgitated meat. The cache is usually some distance from the kill, up to a mile or more away. When game is scarce, cached food will keep a pack alive. I’m convinced that wolves remember where they cache their food because I’ve seen them come back as much as a year later and walk without hesitation to the exact location.”

Wolves also regurgitate to feed their young and, in the case of breeding males, to feed their mates.

“Alpha” is out

Dr. Mech no longer uses the term “Alpha” to describe the dominant male and female; rather, he describes them as the breeding pair. “The family structure of wolves is much like our own,” he explained. “The whole business of Alpha wolves came about because the first wolf researchers didn’t understand wolf families, and they put unrelated wolves from different locations together. While the wolves sorted out who was in charge, the researchers concluded that every wolf pack had an ongoing fight for dominance, hence the so-called Alpha, Beta, and Omega wolves. That’s just not how it works.

“In the wild, a pack is a family. A breeding pair has a litter of pups, and the following year, they have another. Now the pack consists of two parents, who are in charge of things, plus yearlings, who are one year old, and infant pups. The following year, the pack is older and larger, with two-year-olds, yearlings, and pups. By the time they are three or four years old, most young wolves have dispersed, gone out to start their own families.”

Dr. Mech added that in a wolf pack, all of the parents’ energy and resources are focused on reproduction. “The male helps feed his mate through the winter to keep her in good reproductive health,” he said. “Both parents feed the infants, and if prey is abundant, older offspring may do so as well. Pups typically nurse for one to four minutes every three hours, and they’re weaned at seven to nine weeks.”

The first solid food that wolf pups eat is regurgitated meat, which is introduced at about three weeks. As they get older, this is supplemented by fresh meat and bones that the other family members carry to the den. At eight weeks, the pups are moved from the den to a rendezvous site, where they wait while the older wolves hunt. Eventually, at around four to five months, they begin following the adults from the rendezvous site and feed on prey where it is killed.

Preferred cuts
What parts of their prey do wolves typically consume, and in what order?

“That depends,” said Dr. Mech. “They’ll eat almost anything, but their preference is for fresh rather than frozen meat and for internal organs before anything else. The first choice goes to the wolf in charge of the kill, which is almost always the breeding male or his mate. They are the largest and most experienced hunters. They will typically rip the abdomen open to reach the liver and other organs.”

Despite what many “raw feeders” claim, Dr. Mech said the wolves he has observed do not eat the digestive tract contents of their prey. “They will remove the guts and shake them a few times to get rid of whatever they contain, and they’ll eat the rumen from around the contents. This isn’t to say that they won’t swallow some of it. They’re not washing it out; they’re just trying to remove as much of the predigested greens and other stomach contents as possible.”

In contrast, the organs themselves – the liver, heart, and guts – these are prized, said Dr. Mech. So is fat, which is hard to come by in the wild. “Wolves usually catch the weakest, least healthy animals. We have measured the fat content of Yellowstone elk killed by wolves, and it’s low. My best guess for wolves in general is that less than five percent of their diet is fat,” said Dr. Mech.

“If they’re really hungry, the wolves will eat everything – organs, bones, skin, fur, whatever’s there – as quickly as possible. If they’re generally well fed, they’ll eat the internal organs and choice meats first, then rest and come back later for more. They won’t eat antlers, very large bones, or the tooth rows of adult prey.”

As far as bones are concerned, Dr. Mech said, “Wolves eat all of the other bones, everything they can crack open. Some wolves succeed in breaking the skull to eat the brains. Skull bones are hard, though, and this is where many wolves injure their teeth. If the prey is small, like a mouse or bird, the wolf may swallow it whole.”

A pack of 10 to 15 wolves makes short work of its prey, even animals as large as moose, said Dr. Mech. “They work from the inside out, then after sating themselves rest a few hours and eat again. The next day, they eat the remaining meat, which in winter is frozen, as well as the hide, and there is always recreational bone chewing. By the third day, they pull the skeleton apart. They may leave the lower legs and hooves or cache them. If they leave the leftovers, they may return for them, or a scavenging lone wolf may find them.”

In spring and fall, other animals such as beaver may be available, or the wolves may find birds’ eggs. “Wolves would eat eggs year round if they could find them,” said Dr. Mech. “but they’re a seasonal item, like berries. Wolves do eat fruits and nuts and grass on occasion, but meat is their primary food. Their diet is almost all protein with some fat. I estimate that vegetation makes up less than one percent of the food of wolves worldwide. They simply didn’t evolve to eat vegetables.

“A lot of people assume that wolves eat large quantities of hair and fur,” he continued. “Well, they do, but if you’re judging by a wolf’s fecal matter, the percentage of hair, hide, and fur seems larger than it really is. That’s because wolves digest meat first, and they do an excellent job of it. The small amount of fecal matter produced by meat shoots out of them as a liquid. It’s not technically diarrhea, but it’s a very loose stool, and that’s healthy and normal. Then there are longer-lasting stools that are solid and that contain hair, hide, teeth, and bone residue that looks white and chalky.”

Different life-stage diets?
When pregnant and nursing, the female wolf eats the same foods as usual, just more of them. “In most cases, she’s out hunting and traveling with the pack until a couple of days before whelping,” said Dr. Mech. “Most have litters of five to six pups, with larger litters in more temperate climates where game is more abundant, and smaller litters in extreme conditions or when game is scarce.”

Dr. Mech said that wolf pups get their permanent teeth at around six months, which is when they stop receiving preferential treatment. Physically mature at 12 to 14 months, most wolves begin reproducing at age two to four years.

In Minnesota, where Dr. Mech has kept population statistics since 1968, about one wolf in every 500 lives to be 10 years old. “Once a wolf reaches age six or seven, it’s a little past its prime,” he said. “That would be comparable to a 40-year-old human. An elderly wolf is 10, 11, or 12 years old. Most wolves in the wild live around five years, but captive wolves can live to be 17.”

It’s not their diet that shortens the lives of most wild wolves; there are many causes of wolf mortality, says Dr. Mech. Wolves kill each other in territorial disputes. If there’s too much snow on the ground, prey animals can’t find the food they need, so their population goes down, and when there isn’t sufficient prey, the wolves starve. As mentioned earlier, wolves are also killed or injured by their prey, and an injured wolf is at a serious disadvantage. By far the greatest risk to wolves, though, is human exploitation.

When asked about tooth and gum health, Dr. Mech said that wolves, despite the tooth wear that comes with a lifetime of bone chewing, have strong, healthy teeth with no decay, abscesses, or gum disease that he has seen, and no other problems except for occasional injuries that break teeth. Most older wolves have a broken tooth, but it doesn’t slow them down.

According to Dr. Mech, wolves may carry internal parasites, but those parasites seldom have a detrimental effect until the wolf becomes elderly or is weakened by malnutrition. “The presence of internal parasites is not an accurate health indicator,” he said.

The key to a healthy wolf population, Dr. Mech concluded, is abundant prey. When there’s enough food, wolves reproduce, raise healthy pups, maintain a strong pack, and enjoy the social benefits of a large, active family. In return, they strengthen herds of animals by culling the weak, injured, or diseased, and play an important role in our wilderness ecology.

Some describe wild wolves as sickly creatures, infested with parasites and leading a miserable existence. Because of starvation or the stresses of human intervention, some wolves may fit that description, but to imply that all wolves in the wild are frail and diseased is the grossest misrepresentation. When wolves live in the conditions in which they evolved, on large tracts of land with large prey to hunt, these ancestors of the modern dog are among the earth’s fittest, most powerful, most intelligent, vital, healthy animals. Their strong social bonds and rich family life have fascinated humans for millennia. Their howls speak to us, though in a language few can fully understand.

Dr. David Mech’s lifetime of wolf research offers an extraordinary glimpse into the lives of these elusive, misunderstood, and very special animals.

-CJ Puotinen is author of “The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care” (Keats/McGraw-Hill) and “Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats” (Gramercy/Random House).

Latest Blog

A Thing for Gear

It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.