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Vaccination and Canine Distemper Virus (CDV)

When we decided not to vaccinate Caleb, our Bouvier des Flandres, against anything other than rabies, my friend Janice and I knew we ran a risk that he might develop a dreaded disease. We also knew that vaccination doesn’t always protect against disease, and believed it sometimes causes illness. We felt the home-prepared BARF (bones and raw foods) diet we fed him would help his body fight off many health problems. Naturally, we hoped that Caleb would never come down with anything serious like canine distemper virus (CDV). But, when he was three years old, we had to face and overcome exactly that challenge.

Caleb’s dramatic recovery illustrates the theory that a healthy, well-nourished dog can overcome even a serious disease like CDV – if treated in time by appropriate holistic modalities and devoted home nursing. If we prepare ourselves ahead of time for deadly canine viruses, it can spell the difference between life and death – whether a dog is immunized or not.

The story of how we responded to Caleb’s ailment also illuminates how difficult it can be at times to manage a nonconventional response to your dog’s illness. Many dog owners are accustomed to simply bringing their dogs to their veterinarians, and taking all the vets’ suggestions for treatment. This may be the best approach if an owner has no information about or experience with the dog’s disease; you have to rely on experts you trust!

But in our experience, there are greater rewards for educating yourself before problems happen and working with healthcare experts to corroborate your research and decisions. We feel certain that Caleb would have died if treated with the conventional veterinary tactics for CDV. As I said before, we also felt the risks of vaccination against the disease were not worth the benefits.

Of course, there are risks to this approach as well. Only dog owners who are ready to accept full responsibility for making their own decisions should attempt a nonconventional response like ours.

Telling our distemper story, we hope, will demonstrate the potential risks and huge rewards of implementing a truly holistic healthcare plan for your dog.

Be alert and observant
Janice and I observed the earliest signs of what would prove to be Caleb’s CDV infection about a week before we planned to drive 1,500 miles from rural Ontario to visit a friend in Iowa.

To begin with, Caleb went off his food. Then he threw up and had diarrhea. His first vomit was yellowish and foamy, with what looked like saliva in it. The next few times it contained lots of clear fluid, again with foam on top. His diarrhea was even more unusual. It spurted out – projectile diarrhea. It, too, was yellow, and had a powerful, unusual odor.

At first, we speculated that he had eaten something rotten in our cedar swamp, where he loves to play and explore. When the problem persisted for a day, we discussed it with our veterinarian, Dr. Susan Gambling, who was not unduly alarmed, but advised us to keep watching him and keep her informed. As so often seems to be the case after a call or visit to a vet, the following morning, Caleb started eating again and seemed to have gotten over whatever it was.

Later, I read that the first stage of CDV can be hard to tell from other upsets. Not only that, but it tends to clear up temporarily, making it appear as if the dog is all right.

Four days later, on Monday, we loaded him into our van and left for our vacation. During the two-day drive and the rest of the week, Caleb ate normally. He showed an interest in my friend’s garden, her small Terrier-mix, and her two black cats. But I remained uneasy.

Connect the dots
As the week wore on, Caleb became strangely quiet. Then, on Saturday morning, about 10 days after his original bout of vomiting and diarrhea, his beautiful eyes stayed half shut and oozed green discharge.

Having used homeopathy since 1982, I thought it could help Caleb now. The right remedy must closely match the efforts of the individual’s immune system as revealed by her specific symptoms, regardless of which organisms play into her illness. I thought that the remedy pulsatilla suited Caleb’s discharge and emotional demeanor reasonably well, but the nearest source for the remedy was 50 miles away. We’d have to get it Monday, on our way home.

Then Caleb stopped eating again. By Sunday, he strained to defecate and his energy diminished. We were anxious to get home to Dr. Gambling and the holistic practitioners we sometimes consulted, including Paul McCutcheon, DVM, of East York Animal Clinic in Toronto. At this point, one might argue that we should have taken Caleb straight to the nearest vet. But in this case, as would become clear, the fact that we pushed on until we could reach holistic help almost undoubtedly saved Caleb’s life.

We hit the road for home first thing Monday. Caleb developed a dry, croupy cough and his nose started dripping. The word “distemper” kept coming into my mind as if someone was repeating it to me.

In Iowa City, I called a local vet, and asked whether he thought we should risk the two-day trip home or come for emergency assistance right away. I described Caleb’s symptoms. After he ruled out Parvo and Lyme disease, I asked if this could be distemper. He thought probably not, adding that dogs with distemper generally produce a profuse amount of thick, greenish or yellow discharge from their noses – “Like you’ve never seen before,” he described. “You couldn’t miss it.” He thought we could try to get home to our own vet.

As it turned out, the vet’s remark about identifying CDV by quantity and quality of nasal discharge would become one of two coincidences that contributed to Caleb’s diagnosis and recovery.

The second was that since Caleb was a pup, when reading up on canine diseases something drew me to study everything I could find on distemper in particular. Contrary to mainstream belief, holistic pet care books report hundreds of cures. I did not know then that this curious obsession would someday help to save my dog’s life.

Respond to symptoms
On the road again, mucous started rattling in Caleb’s lungs when he coughed. Green goo still trickled from his eyes, their whites moist and reddish. His breath began to exhibit an odd odor, which would become very strong over the next few days. Having no professional advisor, since pulsatilla still matched some of his symptoms, we bought and gave him some immediately. The potency available, C30, was a reasonable middle strength to try without a homeopath’s guidance.

At our motel that night, Caleb’s cough got worse and he couldn’t get comfortable. We gave him more pulsatilla. We phoned Dr. Gambling at midnight, when she was scheduled to be on call. What alarmed her most was his restlessness. She said if he didn’t settle down within a couple of hours to go to the nearest emergency facility. I found a 24-hour rural vet nearby, and left the yellow pages open with the number handy.

But when we heard thunder, we understood Caleb’s uneasiness. Like many dogs, Caleb becomes agitated hours before an electrical storm. We gave him rock rose, a flower essence remedy, after which he slept quietly. That the storm had caused his anxiety showed us that even when a dog is desperately ill, some symptoms may have unrelated causes.

On Tuesday morning, Caleb’s eyes cleared up completely, as did his cough – a typical positive response to a well-chosen homeopathic remedy. We’d realize later that early homeopathic support may have helped prevent CDV complications of pneumonia, which dogs don’t survive as well as people do, and conjunctivitis. Caleb improved for awhile, but had diarrhea, with straining, later that afternoon. We offered him chicken broth, but he would not drink it.

That night, he threw up thin yellow bile with flecks of bloody mucous. His breath and body smelled caustic and sour, with an almost salty quality. This odor is characteristic of CDV, but I needed my books to remind me of that, and they were at home, still another 350 miles away.

At one point that evening, Caleb rolled onto his back, and we saw that his belly was red and irritated. This would become another clue. Closely related to human red measles, CDV often causes an abdominal rash. But we didn’t yet identify Caleb’s rash since he frequently gets a pink underside when bothered by allergies or fleas. The definitive red spots wouldn’t appear for two more days.

Caleb had diarrhea again on Wednesday morning, although there wasn’t much left in him. Immediately afterward, he seemed weak and wanted to be in the open air.

I phoned our veterinary clinic in Cobourg, Ontario, and made an appointment for 4 p.m. We started the final six hour drive. In spite of our reassuring manner with Caleb, we were shaken and relieved to be nearing home.

Dr. Gambling was off duty, so her associate saw Caleb. He had a fever of 103.6°F. Diarrhea had made his anus sore, his nose dripped, and he was subdued. His urine was dark and greenish; the clinic found albumin in it. But protein breakdown is typical when someone hasn’t eaten for days, so that didn’t tell us much.

It didn’t occur to us then to mention that we hadn’t inoculated Caleb against the usual infections. Dr. Gambling would have known, but she wasn’t there. Maybe we assumed her associates would be aware of Caleb’s history, or perhaps we were too stressed to think clearly. But the missed moment shows that even the experts won’t think of everything! The idea that responsible owners might not have vaccinated may not cross the mind of a vet unfamiliar with holistic thinking. And, these days, due in large part to mass immunization, vets may not see infections like distemper for years. Newer ones may know it only from a textbook.

The vet took blood to send to a lab to look for various possibilities, but did not request a test for CDV. However, even if she had, waiting for a diagnosis would have wasted precious time. CDV advances aggressively, ravaging tissues until it can kill a dog or permanently disrupt its neurological system. The sooner caretakers take action, the better the dog’s chances; not only of survival, but of a good recovery.

Feeling a sense of urgency, we took Caleb home. There, I reread my holistic books about canine viruses, their symptoms, and treatments. By the next day, I’d be glad I’d refreshed myself about what information I had and how to find it fast.

Emotional affects
During the night, Caleb’s breathing became so congested that every inhalation sounded like snoring. At 5 a.m. Thursday, Caleb asked to go out into the darkness of our fenced property. We decided to trust his instinct about what he needed. Maybe the cool autumn air would ease his breathing.

Then, in order to support him best, Janice and I faced our own fears. We felt powerless and scared. But we didn’t want our need to make him well to compromise our ability to help him. Nor did we want him to feel that he must pull through for our sake. And we certainly didn’t want him to redirect his energy into being anxious because we were upset, as dogs will do.

Recognizing this, we resolved to work toward the best possible outcome while acknowledging that it was not ultimately in our hands. If it was his will to survive, we would assist him. If not, we would try to accept that with grace.

At 7 a.m., I found Caleb down near the pond. He wobbled up to meet me and we sat down together on the grass. Then, something astonishing happened. He nodded his head toward me companionably, and a spoonful of creamy yellow liquid gushed out and covered his nose.

The Iowa vet’s words came back to me. I knew right away that Caleb had distemper. Instead of panic, I felt relief. Now, we knew what was wrong and that something could be done. No need to waste any more time not acting.

Dr. Gambling was on duty that morning. Caleb’s nostrils oozed steadily. His fever was 104°F, and his belly had the measles-like spots. All these signs plus his breath and body odor now clearly indicated stage two of an acute distemper infection, as can hardening of the pads of the feet, which he never developed.

Dr. Gambling took another blood sample, this time for the CDV test. Janice and I said we would take Caleb home and treat him ourselves with natural remedies, and Dr. Gambling got right behind us, acknowledging that such methods would offer Caleb’s best, if not only, hope. “In veterinary school,” she said, “they teach us that when it’s distemper, dogs just . . .” She made the thumbs-down sign to finish her sentence, and added that while conventional medicine can treat CDV, it cannot cure it.

Mainstream response
Medical intervention for CDV generally consists of hospitalizing the dog and intravenously giving fluids, antibiotics, and possibly other drugs or nutrients. This is meant to prevent dehydration, complications like pneumonia, and keep up the dog’s strength. The virus then runs its course.

If the dog survives, she often goes into stage three of the disease, involving encephalitis of the brain or spinal cord. The resulting neurological damage leaves chronic symptoms such as chorea (uncontrollable twitching or jerking) or seizures, during which the dog may cry out. Some vets and dog lovers believe it kinder to put CDV-infected dogs down rather than risk the devastation of stage three.

However, other vets caution against putting CDV dogs on IV fluids. Holistic veterinarian and author Richard Pitcairn, for example, writes that dogs given antibiotics, fluids, and other drugs are more likely to develop stage three than those treated with natural methods. Both Dr. Pitcairn and herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy speculate that such measures impede the dog’s ability to throw off the virus. De Bairacli Levy believes that feverish dogs must fast to divert energy from their digestive processes to fight disease.

And Dr. McCutcheon (the holistic vet-erinarian we often consulted via long-distance call) emphasizes that both being kept in hospital away from her family and enduring invasive procedures significantly increases the stress of a dog who is already terribly ill.

Holistic possibilities
As soon as we got Caleb comfortably settled in our house, we turned to our home library and developed a treatment plan from several different sources. The following are the things we read, and how we applied them:

Vitamin C injections: From How to Have a Healthier Dog, by Wendell O. Belfield, DVM, and Martin Zucker, we learned how Dr. Belfield helped hundreds of dogs with CDV recover by intravenously injecting them with therapeutic doses of vitamin C twice a day for five days. Dr. Belfield recommends the sodium ascorbate form of vitamin C for dogs.

However, sodium ascorbate can be hard to find. We had some in the form of a dietary supplement, but it was not sterile for injections. Dr. Gambling phoned Dr. Belfield, who agreed to ship her some and instruct her how to use it, but delivery from his California clinic would take until Monday to get to us – four dangerously long days away. Instead, we chose to give Caleb vitamin C orally.

Fasting and medicinal herbs: European herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy claims she oversaw at least a thousand cures of CDV with fewer than a dozen cases sustaining neurological damage. (This is described in her book, The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat.) She bases her approach around fasting, and warns that offering food while fever remains above 103°F predisposes a dog toward neurological damage.

In her book, de Bairacli Levy also describes giving dogs with CDV herbal antiseptic tablets or grated raw garlic and honey two to three times per day; honey-water to supply strength; fresh air; short walks for movement of limbs; and a mixture of tree barks to soothe the digestive tract. She also uses an infusion of rosemary, elder flowers, chickweed, speedwell, and/or balm to swab the dog’s eyes and nose, and applies pure almond oil to sore nostrils or eyes. She believes that early treatment will prevent stage three altogether, and advises that owners carefully reintroduce food to a dog after she has been fasting.

Caleb was fasting anyway; we’d withhold food until his temperature was normal for a day. In the meantime, we offered him wild honey water, gave him balls of garlic and honey mash, and bathed his nose and back end with rosemary infusion. As he recovered, we gave him slippery elm powder for his digestive tract. When the time was right, we gave him small amounts of mashed veggies first, easing him gradually back onto meats and his regular supplements.

Classical homeopathy: In his classic book, Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, now in its third edition, Richard Pitcairn, DVM, lists six of many possible homeopathic remedies for different stages and symptoms of CDV, advising using a choice of only one. He also suggests dosages of vitamin C as an adjunct.

Having used homeopathy for more than 16 years, I knew it was effective and the remedies were easy to obtain. In this life-and-death situation, we’d want an experienced homeopath to choose the right remedy for Caleb, and we knew Dr. McCutcheon’s clinic would consult long-distance. So, homeopathy would be the hub of our plan. Pitcairn also inspired the dosage of vitamin C we gave Caleb orally: 3,000 mg three times per day.

Acupuncture: In her book, Keep Your Pet Healthy the Natural Way, Pat Lazarus gathered testimonials from holistic vets who use either vitamin C injections or acupuncture to cure or control effects of stage three of CDV, such as seizures and chorea. Some vets inject vitamin C or B12 into acupuncture points. As it turned out, Caleb did not develop stage three complications. If he had, we would have researched these options further.

Applying the treatment plan
Right after Dr. Gambling confirmed Caleb’s clinical signs of CDV, we phoned Lisa Formosa, DSHomMed, the homeopath who works with Dr. McCutcheon at East York Animal Clinic in Toronto. Formosa took details of Caleb’s physical symptoms, then asked about his emotions and energy level. Was he depressed and flat? Did he want to be left alone? Caleb wasn’t like that. He watched us and acknowledged a greeting when we approached. Although he was physically weak, his energy wasn’t completely diminished.

Based on these and many other factors, Formosa recommended the remedy distemperinum, which is made from the discharge of dogs already sick with the distemper virus. Formosa said if Caleb had been deeply depressed and stage two even more established, she would have chosen homeopathic goldenseal, instead.

I was surprised. Dr. Pitcairn lists both remedies as candidates; yet even as an experienced lay person, I would have chosen goldenseal. Formosa’s explanation about dosage was new to me, too. She said Caleb’s relatively “up” energy level indicated that we start with 30C, because we didn’t want to “overwhelm” him with the higher intensity of 200C. If the lower potency had no effect, then she would recommend trying 200C. This shows why it’s wise, when possible, to get professional advice for serious problems!

We immediately contacted homeopathic pharmacies around the region, and ran into another challenge. They hadn’t even heard of the remedy distemperinum! Fortunately, the East York Animal Clinic kept some in stock. As Caleb had someone responsible at home to watch over him, I jumped in the car and drove the 80 miles to Toronto.

When I got back, I found Caleb resting on his loveseat on the porch and gave him his first dose. It was 6:30 p.m. By 7 p.m., his temperature had dropped to 102.4°F. Then, he howled like usual at a train whistling through the crossing a half mile away! We put chicken broth near him.

Formosa advised us that in classical homeopathy, caretakers administer a dose, then observe. As long as you see improvement, don’t dose again. You repeat the dose when improvement seems to stop. She said Caleb’s nasal discharge might first get worse, and reminded us that homeopathic theory views discharge as a good sign. Then she concluded calmly, “You should be all right.”

Janice and I worked out a schedule specifying what, when, and how much to give of every substance, and posted it on the kitchen cupboard. The final column gave space to check off each task when done. Our intention was to make sure we didn’t miss a beat, especially if we became too anxious to think straight. I started keeping a log on everything that happened. We dosed Caleb twice more that night.

Caleb’s recovery
Caleb came out of his illness as straight as an arrow.

On the second day of treatment, Caleb’s temperature was around 102.4°F. His nasal discharge loosened and flowed easily. On a short walk, he leaped a log (!) and later coughed to clear his lungs. He watched our kitchen activities keenly, and drank a half cup of broth. By mid-afternoon, he rested in his regular lookout spots in the yard, cruised the kitchen counters looking for food, and chased our cat away from his broth.

Once, when looking into his eyes, I sensed his energy drop and gave more distemperinum immediately. He came on strong again and got very hungry. We gave him a few tiny homemade biscuits, as a goodwill gesture. On my bed, he slept happily on his back!

On the third day of treatment, Caleb’s temperature averaged 101.8°. He took some broth with vitamin C and slippery elm in it, plus the honey-garlic mixture. He made a tiny bit of healthy poop. We dosed him again. His nasal discharge was once again clear and colorless.

At one point that day, Caleb caught my eye and placed his foot on the lid of his biscuit tub. When I refused to give him a biscuit, he ran off with my plastic clog. I gave him one small biscuit, and later, some mashed cooked carrot.

We could feel that he was going to be all right.

By day four, Caleb breathed silently through his nose and his rash had faded. As his temperature averaged 101.2°F, over the day we provided cooked grains, a few nuts, baked winter squash with kefir and parsley, another carrot, and grated raw cabbage. (Note: We have long since omitted grain from Caleb’s diet.) He wanted even more.

Things just kept getting better. Caleb’s former sweet breath started returning, and on day five, with his temperature at 100.2°, we offered him his first small portion of raw meat. By the eighth day, all the symptoms of CDV had gone and he was back on his full diet.

To rebuild his health, we added vitamin B complex to his diet, plus oat tincture several weeks later. We kept these up for months, as it takes a long time to rebuild a dog’s strength after CDV.

Finally, we reintroduced his daily supplements slowly as his ravaged digestive system became less sensitive.

When conventionally treated dogs survive CDV, neurological damage can show up weeks or even months later. Dr. Gambling told us that after three symptom-free months, we could announce Caleb’s recovery to the world. It’s now been seven years and counting.

Dr. Gambling also suggested eventually immunizing Caleb against CDV, since her in-office veterinary reference text says survivors maintain natural immunity for, at most, six months. Instead, we agreed to check his titers periodically. A vaccinated dog’s CDV antibody count is normally below 200. The minimum score thought to sustain immunity is 24; after vaccination, it averages 36-48. Caleb’s never-vaccinated titer, more than six years later, is 768.

Today, at 10, Caleb glows with better general health than most dogs his age. He’s a mischievous, shining, energetic testament to why we should feed dogs a natural diet and be well prepared beforehand lest a nasty virus tries to gain a foothold.

-Susan Weinstein is a freelance writer with a strong interest in animals and holistic healthcare. She is now working on a book about pets and stress with Paul McCutcheon, DVM. Weinstein and Caleb live with Janice Newson and Farida the Monster Cat in Grafton, Ontario.

Correcting Canine Skin Problems

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When the dog’s skin is healthy, we don’t give it a second thought. But when it is out of whack – greasy, itchy, smelly, flaky, bumpy, or raw – it becomes the center of attention for our dogs, and us, too. There is no more miserable dog than one with a serious skin problem.

The skin is the epithelial and connective tissue covering of the body. Skin is also referred to as the “integument,” a term meaning “a covering or investment.” Cutaneous is also used to describe the skin.

An animal’s skin is its largest organ of the body, and it is properly thought of as a living, breathing organ system with a multitude of functions, specific nutrient needs, and intimate interconnections with other organ systems of the body. Of particular interest to health and healing are the functions of the skin that involve inner-body protective mechanisms, whole-body immunology, and nervous functions that affect sensation.

The surface of the skin is a critical interface between the highly controlled internal tissues and the external environment. It permits the maintenance of bodily homeostasis, and it is a primary organ system for creating and maintaining whole-body health.

Anatomy and physiology
Skin is composed of two integrated cell layers, the epidermis and dermis. In total, the skin acts as a semipermeable protective layer covering the entire body.

The epidermis is the nonvascular, outermost layer of the skin and is composed of several cell layers. It is the tough part of the skin, and it has the ability to thicken with use. The epidermis varies in thickness, depending on the area of the body, but over most of the body it is about 0.1 mm thick. A dog’s foot pads are greatly thickened and toughened epidermis.

The dermis is the part of the skin that lies beneath the epidermis; it is composed mostly of connective tissue along with blood vessels, nerves, and lymphatic ducts.

In the skin two particular cell types, keratinocytes and Langerhans cells, are of special importance for holistic health. Both are prime contributors to the health and healing of the skin.

Keratinocytes are stratified (in layers) squamous (scaly or platelike) epithelial cells, which are the primary cells found in the skin and mucosa, including oral esophageal, corneal, conjunctival, and genital epithelium. Ninety-five percent of the epidermal cells are keratinocytes. Keratin is an insoluble protein synthesized by keratinocytes. Keratin adds toughness to skin, hair, and nails; it the substance that forms a barrier between the animal and the environment.

Keratinocytes undergo characteristic changes as they move upward/outward from the basal layers of the epidermis (the deepest layer of keratinocytes where the stem cells reside) to the outer cornified (hardened) layers of the skin. The normal turnover time for keratinocytes is about 30 to 60 days, but this time may vary with disease or patterns of increased use.

Langerhans cells form the “nerve cen-ter” of the skin; they are migrating dendritic cells (from the Greek, dendron, for tree) found in the epidermis. These are cells of nervous tissue origin that participate in the cutaneous immune response. They have the ability to migrate from the skin to lymph nodes where they can transfer antigenic information being received by the skin throughout the entire body. Their communicative ability is greatly enhanced by their extensive “dendrites” – branching, threadlike extensions (like the limbs of a tree) from the cell proper.

Melanocytes are cells found in both the epidermis and dermis; they contain pigmented granules of melanin. Melanin granules are all the same color (reddish-brown); it is the variation in the amount and location of melanin that causes the different colors of skin and fur.

The subcutaneous layer lies below the epidermis and dermis. It is composed mostly of fat, and it forms a loose attachment between the dermis and underlying muscle tissue. Its loose attachment allows for considerable movement of the dog’s skin over its body.

Structures that originate from the skin include hair or fur, glands, and nails.

Most mammals have both oil (sebaceous) and sweat (sudoriferous) glands located throughout the skin, but the dog’s (and cat’s) sweat glands are found only on the pads of their feet. Panting (along with increased salivation) are the primary ways a dog cools down.

Sebaceous or oil glands are usually associated with a hair follicle, and they are widely distributed throughout the skin of most mammals. Secretory cells of the sebaceous glands produce sebum, a substance that is mostly lipid (fatty material).

The functions of the sebaceous glands include:

• Lubrication and production of a protective, oily layer for the hair and skin.

• Inhibition of bacterial growth.

• Synthesizing vitamin D. (A precursor to vitamin D, dehydrocholestrol, is formed in sebaceous glands. When dehydrocholestrol is irradiated by sunlight to its active form, vitamin D, it is absorbed by the body.)

• Secretion of sebum. (Sebum production is related to hormonal levels, generally being highest around the time of puberty.)

Apocrine glands are considered by some physiologists to be a second type of sudoriferous gland. Apocrine glands are typically located in the anal and genital regions, and in some species they secrete a type of pheromone or sexual attractant. Anal glands in dogs and cats are examples of apocrine glands.

Claws are formed from keratinocytes located in the dermis that surrounds the periosteum (bone covering) of the distal toe. Claws/nails of dogs (and cats) are supplied with blood vessels and nerves.

A closer look at skin diseases
Entire tomes have been written on the subject of canine skin diseases and their great variety of treatment approaches. Here, we will only simplify an approach to identifying and treating skin problems from the holistic perspective.

For purposes of this article, we will take the organ system of skin in its totality, and make the assumption that if we can keep its two primary cells healthy – the keratinocytes and Langerhans cells – we will be well on the road to overall health of the dog’s skin.

Remember that keratinocytes change in both morphology (appearance) and function as they progress in maturity from the inner, basal layers of the epithelium to its outermost, dead-cell covering. Recent studies have indicated that this progressively changing function can be greatly affected (positively or negatively) as it is occurring. In other words, keratinocytes may be “uploaded” toward health or “downloaded” toward disease, depending on what stimulus is being applied – either from within or from the surrounding environment.

A prime example of a “downloading” (disease-producing) stimulus occurs with the condition known as atopy (discussed in more detail below). Any oxidative stress, including ultraviolet radiation, chemical oxidants, and the presence of microorganisms may incite the keratinocytes’ stem cells to produce mature cells more susceptible to disease.

One example of a “downloading” stimulus that has been extensively studied in humans is exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Excess exposure to UV rays is one of the primary contributing factors in producing skin tumors. Scientists have discovered that the “stress” of ultraviolet light initiates a change in gene expression of the stem cell keratinocytes, speeding the process of cell aging, and ultimately leading to the production of a population of mature cells that are more prone to tumor development.

Note that dogs, when compared to humans, have a built-in sunscreen: their hair coat. The UV-induced downloading of the keratinocytes may thus not be as big a problem in dogs, but the science behind it is interesting nonetheless. Also interesting: Of the few species studied, each has its own cellular mechanism for coping with sunlight. Some species use one pathway to create altered keratinocytes; others use an entirely different pathway.

A good example of “uploading” the keratinocytes occurs in the body’s natural response to cuts and scrapes. In wound healing, activated keratinocytes begin to produce keratin proteins distinct from the keratins of healthy epidermis, and the keratinocytes themselves become hyper-proliferative and migratory.

There are many substances that can upload keratinocytes. Any of the dietary antioxidants (for example, vitamins A, C, and E and Omega-3 fatty acids) likely have a salubrious effect. Judging from its ability to rapidly regenerate epidermal cells, the topical use of the herb calendula (Calendula officinalis), may also be directly beneficial to skin cells.

Vitamin C has been well documented as a skin helper. In addition to its antioxidative capacity, vitamin C participates in several biological roles. It helps protect the skin against sunlight, and its primary role in collagen synthesis is crucial for skin regeneration and wound repair. Vitamin C also modulates keratinocyte and lymphocyte differentiation, helping to produce healthier mature skin and cells of the immune system.

Further, vitamin C has at least two beneficial effects for cancer prevention. First, it is important in the inner-cell mechanism that helps damaged cells die off rather than grow into tumor cells. Second, it seems to help the effects of at least some chemotherapeutic agents.

Finally, we know that vitamin C is accumulated in healthy skin cells, apparently waiting there for any increased need. It is found in lower amounts in cells of older animals, a possible reason for increased cell aging in the elderly.

Veterinarians have been taught that dogs do not need dietary vitamin C because they can produce it themselves. However, most holistic veterinarians think that there are plenty of occasions when the “normal” amount of produced vitamin C isn’t enough for the need – for example, for skin allergies that require enhanced antioxidant and healing activities. My own recommendation is to routinely add maintenance levels of vitamin C to the dog’s diet, and to increase these amounts to therapeutic levels whenever there is a need. Check with your holistic vet for dosages.

Factors contributing to skin health and disease
Following is a list of some of the general factors that can adversely affect the health of the skin, along with some very basic ideas for how we can enhance the dog’s individual ability to maintain healthy skin.

• Genetic. Studies indicate that there are certain breeds of dogs and particular genetic lines within breeds that are especially prone to skin diseases.

For example, there are many breeds that have been reported to have an increased susceptibility to atopy. The Shar-Pei, for example, has a high relative risk factor for generalized demodicosis (mange), atopy, and hypothyroidism, and there are certain lines of Cocker Spaniels that exhibit a higher incidence of seborrhea.

When we have looked further into the cause of this increased susceptibility, it often turns out that the breed has a general population of keratocytes that are genetically programmed to download (proceed into disease mode) rather than upload toward healthy mature cells.

Further, it appears that some breeds or individual lines within breeds seem to have a genetic propensity for a poorly functional immune system.

The best advice, of course, is to avoid breeds and genetic lines that are more susceptible to skin problems, but this is obviously not always possible (hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is not always available, unless you know the genetic history of the individual). Susceptible individuals may need to be on a lifelong regime of multidimensional skin enhancers, including nutrition, immune-boosters, topical skin-care products, etc.

• Immune system. As it pertains to the skin, the immune system is a two-lane highway. The animal’s innate immune ability affects the health of the skin, and the immune system located within the skin (Langerhans cells) needs to be healthy for it to transfer an accurate immune response from the externally received antigenic stimuli to the inner reserves of the immune system.

• Nutrition is the key to good skin health. The problem is that, for the key to be effective, it must fit the lock (the individual). In the old days there were many locks that could be opened with one general skeleton key, and likewise there is a skeleton program of good nutrition that will help many animals (see “Diet Tips for Promoting Skin Health,” next page). For those critters that are prone to skin disease, you may need to have a holistic practitioner devise a nutritional program that specifically fits your individual.

• Hygiene. As with all holistic approaches, balance is the key to managing your dog’s hygiene; too much or too little is not healthy.

Trying to scrub away all the dirt and detritus that our dogs collect in their normal course of work and play may be counterproductive. Too much cleansing can be drying to the skin. Dry skin is physically irritating, which may cause the dog to dig and scratch excessively. Additionally, we know that the skin’s oil glands produce a substance that is antibacterial; so excess cleaning actually removes the antibacterial barrier.

Furthermore, there is considerable recent evidence to indicate that a certain amount of “dirt” is good for the immune system. Exposure to dirt, low concentrations of locally important bacteria and bugs, local plant pollens, and household dust are all vital for developing a healthy immune system and for stimulating an appropriate immune response.

Finally, many shampoos or soaps contain substances that are irritating to the individual, again stimulating the itch/scratch cycle that ultimately damages the skin. Also, soaps seem to be individually tolerated or rejected; what works fine for most dogs may stimulate extreme itching in a rare individual.

Try a soap initially on a small area of your dog and observe the results. When you’ve found a shampoo that seems to work for your dog, use it only often enough that it keeps your dog clean and at the same time allows her normal skin oils to be present. Healthy skin should be dry but not flaky, pliable, and possessing a slightly oily feel, and the hair coat should have lustrous sheen.

To maintain this look and feel, some dogs need a bath every week or so; others will do better if the interval between baths is a month or more. An animal suffering from ongoing skin disease may require special care, with increased bathings that may also need to be medicated (herbal shampoos are often very helpful) or nutritionally enhanced shampoos (many shampoos have added vitamins or antioxidants that can be beneficial).

Note: Shampoos that contain oat extracts seem to be the most universally soothing, but sometimes they contain additives that are irritating – scents, preservatives, and other things that don’t need to be included. So, even oat-based products should be spot-tested first.

• Bugs. We all know that fleas, ticks, mites, and lice can cause dastardly consequences, and so we know that we need to keep their numbers to a minimum. Products abound: spot-ons, collars, and oral drugs that circulate bug-unfriendly toxins to fight the invaders from within; sprays and powders to attack them from without; shampoos to stop them in their tracks; and dips to keep them away for weeks. While the negative impact that bugs can have on the dog’s skin health shouldn’t be minimized, I often think we’ve overdone it more than just a bit.

It is clear, for example, that bug killers are toxins and that they also affect the animal we apply them to – reason enough to give us pause before we wage all-out war against all vermin, real and imagined. We also know that the anti-bug drugs can produce an allergic response in the animal, creating a skin irritation that is exactly like the one we were trying to prevent by keeping the bugs away. Finally, toxic chemicals are not species specific; when we kill the bad guys, we also end up killing any beneficial bugs that may be helpful for the long-range health of the animal, and we may leave a residue to contaminate the environment for a long time to come.

So, from my perspective, the holistic answers to bug problems:

• Use only what is necessary, when it is truly needed.

• Use natural products whenever possible.

• Enhance your dog’s whole body health.

• Inner milieu. In addition to the necessity for a functionally competent immune system, there are other parts of the inner body that are important for maintaining healthy skin. In turn, the skin can affect seemingly unrelated organ systems.

For example, there is good evidence that antibiotic use actually “downloads” the keratinocytes – that is, antibiotics may cause the keratinocyte stem cells to mature into cells that are less healthy and more prone to disease. And, both intestinal (inflammatory bowel syndrome, as one example) and lung problems (such as asthma) may incite skin problems – although which disease condition comes first and which follows is often difficult to determine.

• Hormones also have an affect on the skin. It is important to appreciate that all organ systems of the body ultimately affect the skin, but hormonal influences, particularly the sex and thyroid hormones, are especially important. The adrenal hormones (glucocorticoids) are also important primary contributors to skin disease whether they come from inner sources or are provided via veterinary prescription.

Hormone conditions that affect the skin have two components that differentiate them from other allergy or infectious-related conditions. First, they usually do not produce itching. Second, they typically occur over the body in a specific configuration known as a “hormonal pattern”: a bilateral patchwork of changes including skin thickening, discoloration, and/or hair loss or thinning.

Abnormal skin conditions
Dermatitis is a nonspecific term to describe inflammation of the skin. Dermatitis can be produced by numerous agents, including external irritants, burns, allergins, trauma, and infection (bacterial, viral, parasitic, or fungal). It can be associated with concurrent internal or systemic disease; hereditary factors also may be involved.

The skin’s response to insult manifests as any combination of pruritis (itching), scaling, erythema (redness), alopecia (hair loss), thickening of the skin, hyperpigmentation, oily seborrhea, odor, and hair loss.

Following are brief discussions of just a few of the more prevalent causes of dermatitis in dogs.

• Pyoderma literally means “pus in the skin.” This accumulation of white blood cells in the skin can be caused by infectious, inflammatory, and/or neoplastic etiologies, but most commonly in dogs the term refers to bacterial infections of the skin.

Most skin infections are superficial and secondary to a variety of other conditions including allergies (flea allergy, atopy, food allergy); internal diseases (primarily hormonal diseases, especially of the thyroid or due to an excess of glucocorticoids from internal sources or prescribed by the vet); seborrhea (abnormal production of secretions of the sebaceous glands or the glands surrounding the hair follicles); parasitic diseases (mange, for example); or anatomic predispositions (from skin folds).

Any of a number of bacterial species may be involved, but Staphylococcus intermedius is usually the primary pathogen, often making it possible for other bugs to invade. It is important to remember that the normal skin of a dog has a healthy population of resident bacterial species; since these bugs are health-promoting, indiscriminate use of antibiotics should be avoided. To cause infection, S. intermedius needs to stick to the keratinocytes of the skin. Anything that changes the normally dry environment of the skin to a more humid one (such as skin folds) can predispose the host to an overgrowth of bacteria.

Holistic treatment for pyoderma consists of a combined approach that couples topical with internal medicines. External applications should be directed toward drying the wet (skin fold) areas and decreasing the bacterial populations to a level where the animal’s inner defenses can deal with them. Ideally, internal medicines will be directed toward enhancing the immune system as well as attacking the bacteria directly. Once again, it is important to appreciate that skin infections are usually a secondary response due to some other cause; determining that primary cause will be necessary for long-term healing.

• Atopy is estimated to affect about 10 percent of the canine population. Animals with atopy are thought to be genetically predisposed to become sensitized to environmental allergins that are absorbed through the respiratory tract. Most of the symptoms of atopy (including intense itching) are exactly the same as those that result from food allergies, flea-bite dermatitis, contact allergy, or mange mites, thus compounding the problem of accurate diagnosis.

Symptoms include intense itching, which typically results in skin damage (often intense damage) from the dog’s self-trauma due to scratching, licking, and biting at the itch. Secondary bacterial infections are common. In some dogs, the only symptom of atopy may be chronic or recurrent otitis (inflammation in the ear).

Conventional medicine typically confronts the itch as its prime enemy, and its arsenal includes avoidance of the offending allergin; symptomatic therapy to control the itch (most commonly glucocorticoids which, with long-term use, effectively shut down the normal, inner immune system); and immunotherapy, that is, desensitization to the allergin or vaccinating against the allergin. At one time antihistamines were extensively used to treat atopy, but current research indicates that they are not effective for relieving the itch associated with the disease.

Of course, avoiding the offending allergin isn’t always plausible. What do you do when the dog proves to be sensitive to the grasses and trees in your own backyard? And remember that an intradermal skin test only reveals exposure to the allergin; it is not necessarily a measure of the dog’s sensitivity to the allergin.

Holistic medicine takes a different approach. The goal here is to try to enhance the dog’s innate immune system so he can better cope with his environment.

Holistic methods that enhance the immune system include acupuncture (proven to enhance the production and function of immune-important lymphocytes); herbal remedies (many herbs, but especially Echinacea spp., enhance the balance of the immune response); and homeopathic remedies (many homeopaths feel that the primary way homeopathy works is by stimulating the immune system). Each of these methods has specific remedies to help control itchiness. In addition, moderate daily exercise, massage, and proper nutrition all enhance the immune response.

When the nits come to the grits, however, there is no medicine that will be effective all the time. You may need to combine some of the conventional methods with the alternative ones.

• Psychogenic dermatosis is a general term that attempts to describe skin conditions that involve behavioral components. Nearly all itchy conditions will cause some degree of psychogenic stress, but some dogs apparently itch (or scratch) excessively for reasons confined to their psyches.

For some of these animals, behavioral therapy, either with or without pharmacologic interventions may be helpful. Other dogs – those with obsessive-compulsive or self-mutilating disorders – may not respond to any therapy.

• Skin tumors. Tumors can occur in all the tissues of the skin and surrounding tissues, and they can be either benign or malignant.

In my experience, the malignancy or non-malignancy of a particular skin tumor is often difficult to assess, perhaps due to the fact that skin has an amazing ability to transform to a rapid growth phase (whether that phase be malignant or non-malignant) with such ease. Any lump or bump of the skin should be looked at by a veterinarian. Simple needle biopsies can be extremely helpful for differentiating infections and inflammations from potential tumors. The pliability of the skin makes surgical excision of smaller-sized lumps easy to perform if it’s deemed necessary.

Alternative medicines for skin
An accurate diagnosis is necessary to adequately treat conditions of the skin with either holistic or conventional medicine. In addition to a complete physical exam, this may require skin scrapings, examination of individual hairs, cytology, fungal and/or bacterial cultures, and (especially when systemic disease is suspected as a cause) blood and urine tests. Intradermal skin testing has been used to determine specific allergins, but its use has recently come into question (a positive test only indicates past exposure to a particular antigen, and the significance of this for determining a treatment regime is questionable).

Once you know with some degree of certainty what you are dealing with, you have to embrace the fact that skin is an extremely complex organ system that oftentimes requires an approach to healing that is multi-factorial, requiring the use of many healing disciplines to be effective.

In other words, it’s essential that you understand:

• the enemy (the cause of the disease);

• that the enemy will likely be present in complex ways (most often there are several factors that are contributing to the disease);

• that you may need to bring in an entire army of different healing modalities to be effective; and

• that the battle may be long and costly.

Finally, you and your team of holistic practitioners should develop an exit strategy from the very beginning of treatment. Decide ahead of time how long you plan to stay with any one treatment regime, and when it will be the time to switch to another approach.

Unfortunately, skin is often the first organ system to suffer harm and the last to heal. It is, after all, an organ with a huge surface area that is in contact with all kinds of stuff in the surrounding environment. It is also a highly sensitive organ that is influenced by the health and well-being of all the body’s other organ systems. To add to the overall problem, almost all symptoms of the skin can be caused by a multitude of conditions.

And as one further consideration: According to its theory of “movement of symptoms,” homeopathic medicine believes that all diseases, no matter their origin, move through a set pattern that leaves the skin as the very last organ to heal.

My very basic holistic approach to healing the skin follows:

1. Eliminate any external source that may be causing the condition: parasites, bacteria, allergenic food sources, environmental irritants, and other sources of stress, physical and/or mental.

2. Explore all the possible causes, including psychogenic.

3. Try to narrow this list of differential possibilities down to a few of the more likely causes. This will, we hope, result in a more manageable list of probable causes.

4. Develop a plan of attack that will likely include lifestyle changes, nutrition (including supplements and nutriceuticals), herbal helpers, and either homeopathy or acupuncture as primary therapy.

5. Make a list of realistic expectations (how the dog’s caretakers feel the therapy should progress, based on their desires, and on the practitioner’s past experience with similar cases), and define a time frame (and a reasonable budget) for these expectations to come to fruition.

6. Be confident. Remember that most skin conditions will resolve themselves – if we provide a properly holistic foundation of inner health and outer resilience. But . . .

7. For the chronic, persistent cases, you may need to light candles, shake rattles, pray . . . do whatever it takes to make the magic of medicine work for you and your dog. (For more information, see “Walking the Allergy Maze,” WDJ August 2004.)

-Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Animal News Alerts: November 2005

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Monthly magazines are at a disadvantage when it comes to breaking news; we send an issue to press at least a month before the date that will appear on its cover. So, usually, we don’t even try to disseminate news. But the following items are of such importance and continuing relevance that we are going to break our standard rule.

Canine Flu

An entirely new, highly contagious, and sometimes deadly strain of influenza is sweeping the country’s canine population. Immunologists studying the flu strain have identified it as a variant of an equine influenza; scientists have never before witnessed an influenza virus “jumping” from horses to dogs. The first cases were reported in Florida, which has a large equine population and lots of Greyhound breeding and racing facilities.

Most dogs who become infected with the respiratory illness will experience a milder form of influenza, with symptoms that are similar to those of kennel cough, such as a persistent cough, low fever, and listlessness. However, some develop a more acute disease with clinical signs of pneumonia. Immediate veterinary care, including antibiotics and fluids, will be needed to save the life of a dog with severe symptoms, such as a high fever, secondary bacterial infection, and nasal discharge. Among the latter group, the mortality rate is 1 to 5 percent.

Because this is thought to be an entirely new virus, no dogs have any natural immunity to it, so virtually all dogs who are exposed to it, no matter their breed or age, will become infected. About 80 percent of the dogs who contract the illness will develop symptoms, although all the exposed animals will be capable of transmitting the virus to other dogs.

The virus is airborne; dogs can become infected from contact with anything that an infected dog sneezed or coughed on.

As we went to press, canine influenza had been found in states all across the country. Stay alert to any signs of illness in your dog; take her to a veterinary clinic if she shows signs of fever or coughing.

Hurricane Forces Pets to be Left Behind

Like you, we were saddened and enraged by the news of thousands of people being forced to leave their pets behind when they evacuated from the September’s hurricane zones. Though the many relief efforts undertaken in recent months to help the abandoned animals have been admirable, many thousands of these rescues would have been unnecessary if more people could have taken shelter with their pets.

Fortunately, many efforts are underway to change local, state, and federal laws and policies to allow people to bring their beloved dogs, cats, and other pets with them in evacuation vehicles and into shelters.

The Humane Society of the United States is urging Congress to quickly enact legislation that addresses the needs of the animal victims of disasters. The Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards (PETS) Act, H.R. 3858, requires state and local emergency management agencies that receive federal funding to make plans for people with pets or the disabled who rely on service animals to safely evacuate along with their animals in the event of a disaster.

Five U.S. Congressmen introduced the bill in the U.S. House of Representatives.

Three Dog Bakery of Kansas City, Missouri, has started hosting fund-raising events in support of legislative efforts to enable the concomitant rescue of people and their animal companions in disasters. The company is also selling T-shirts (with profits supporting the efforts above) emblazoned with the message, “Leave No Man Behind; Leave No Pet Behind.” See www.threedog.com or call (800) 4TREATS for more details.

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Do Fence Them In

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Hannah, my brother’s dog, is a reformed escape artist. Keith lives in a house that is situated in a five-acre fenced compound in the country (it’s a self-storage facility). You’d think this would be dog heaven! But as a pup, Hannah learned that there is much more fun available outside the fence and down the road – other loose dogs, kids playing, ponds to swim in, deer to chase. Her mentor was a neighbor’s dog who used to escape his yard and run along the outside of Hannah’s fence. “Hannah! Come on out so we can play!” She did, and what fun!

Keith nearly lost his mind trying to find and block all the places where Hannah could slip out. The problem was, she’s a big, young, athletic dog who needs a lot of exercise; she comes unglued when she doesn’t get to play outside of Keith’s secure but tiny private yard. He’d take her out to the big yard after the storage facility was closed for the evening so she could chase hard-hit tennis balls and run along with the manager’s golf cart up and down the aisles of lockers until she was tired.

Frequently, though, at some point, Hannah would run after a ball – and then keep running for the far fence. By the time Keith (running after her and yelling her name) could reach the far side of the compound, she was through a hole only she knew about and off for adventures unknown. Luckily, she would always come back within an hour or two, muddy and happily exhausted.

Keith spent hours filling gaps beneath the chain-link fence, but since he never managed to witness the moment or site she wriggled through, his work felt pointless and endless. He called me several times for advice, and I sent him WDJ articles about teaching her to “Come!” and developing off-leash reliability. But training skills like these can take a long time, lots of successful practice – and as few opportunities to practice the unwanted behavior as possible. The escapes kept happening. Half joking, I once suggested that Keith tie Hannah’s tether to one of those big rubber balls that have a handle – the kind little kids sit on to bounce. She could easily drag it around, but when she crawled under the fence, the ball would get stuck and hold her there, marking the spot where she got out like a buoy!

One afternoon, Hannah escaped right after Keith had taken her collar off and given her a bath. She was running around the big yard in that exuberant post-dog-bath way, when she ran around the house and took off for the mystery exit. She didn’t come home that night. The next morning, after driving around his neighborhood calling, checking the roadside ditches, and searching the kennels at his local shelter, Keith made a “lost dog” flier and started posting them. One pole a mile from his house already had a “found dog” flier on it – with Hannah’s abashed countenance appearing between the tattooed arms that held her for the photo. Mr. Tattoo was grateful for the reward money, although his wife hinted that they might have to spend more on cleaning the sofa where Hannah had spent the night!

Fortunately, Hannah seems to have (survived long enough to have) grown out of her trips “abroad.” Other dogs may not be as lucky. Read Pat Miller’s article (“Preventing Great Escapes”), and take her advice about over-fencing your yard before you bring your new dog or puppy home.

-Nancy Kerns

Runaway Dog: Preventing Your Dog From Escaping

Runaway dogs have a penchant for escaping, regardless of how secure they may seem.
Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

[Updated August 21, 2017]

RUNAWAY DOG OVERVIEW

– Make sure your fence is secure before you bring that new dog home. Even if it keeps your current dogs safely confined, a canine newcomer may have new talents that test your confinement system.

– Be careful any time you put your dog in a new containment area. Check the area first to ensure it is secure, and watch him after you put him in to be sure he’s not testing the fence.

– Consider the safest approach – always keep your dog indoors when you’re not home.

Otis the Bloodhound was an opportunistic runaway dog. I discovered his talent one day while working at the front desk at the Marin Humane Society, early in my animal protection career. A woman came in asking if we might know where a Bloodhound lived, because he kept visiting her house every day. He was charming, she said, but she worried that he might get hit by a car.

A Bloodhound owner myself at the time, I was curious where this errant Bloodhound might live; it’s not a very common breed. But when I asked the woman for her address, I was dismayed to hear she lived around the corner from me. Could it possibly be MY safely fenced dog who was making house calls around the neighborhood?

It was, indeed. Unbeknownst to me, Otis had discovered a hole in the fence behind some dense bushes. He waited every morning until I was gone, crawled out the hole, spent his day visiting neighbors, and returned home in time to greet me innocently at my back door.

I was lucky. Otis wasn’t a dedicated escape artist – a solid patch to the fence ended his wanderings. Other owners often work much harder to keep their canine fugitives safe at home.

Dogs Who Become Skilled Escape Artists

Roaming is an innate behavior for dogs. They are hunters and scavengers, and left to their own devices will wander a territory far larger than the average backyard. Escaping, however, is a learned behavior. Dogs who are given the opportunity to escape often do. Once they figure out how, they will try harder and harder, even when the fence is belatedly fortified. Dogs who become escape artists hone their skills to a fine edge. Keeping them safely confined at home where they belong can be a huge challenge. Our nation’s animal shelters are full of escape artists.

The best avenue for managing a dog’s wanderlust is to prevent him from wandering in the first place. The problem starts when you bring home the new puppy before you are fully prepared, promising to put up that fence before Rover grows up.

A tiny puppy won’t wander far from the back stoop, even when you leave him out on his own for a bit. Before you know it, though, Rover is six months old, already has a habit of making neighborhood rounds, and you still haven’t finished the fence. When Mr. Jones from down the road calls you up and threatens to shoot Rover if he chases his goats one more time, you rush to the hardware store to buy some metal fence posts and hog wire. Hastily you throw up a pen in the backyard that attaches to the back deck. “That should hold him until I get the rest of those post holes dug!” you think.

As you settle yourself back on the sofa to watch the last half of the football game, Rover is already testing the fence; he’s late for his daily visit to the Smith’s garbage can! He checks out the gate latch, but it doesn’t yield to his tentative pawing and gnawing. He trots around the inside of the enclosure, searching for a way out.

In the far corner he finds a three-inch gap between the wire and the ground and pokes his nose under. Getting his nose on the other side of the fence encourages him to try harder. He starts to worm his way under. The soft ground gives way beneath his claws. He digs harder. Before you can say “end zone,” he’s free, headed for the Smith’s omelet scraps and bacon drippings. You eventually retrieve him and fill the hole, but the damage is done. Rover is on his way to a lifetime career as a master escape artist.

Preferred Escape Methods Depend on the Dog’s Breed

Whether your dog’s escape efforts focus on tooth or claw or he excels in feats of aerial accomplishment depends both on genetics and learning. Dogs who are genetically programmed to dig, such as Terriers, are likely to burrow under the fence, especially if a handy soft spot presents itself.

If, however, the first weak spot in the fence is a loose board, we can inadvertently train Rover and our Terrier to eat their way through fences, turning them into beavers rather than burrowers. Once Rover discovers that the fence is breachable, he’ll test every spot where his teeth can gain purchase, and you’ll forever spend your football-watching time patching his holes.

Herding dogs such as Border Collies and sporting breeds like Labradors have a natural ability to leap tall buildings in a single bound. Given the opportunity, they’ll often make jumping fences their specialty.

However, you can inadvertently teach a less-athletic dog to bound over fences by starting small.

Confident that a four-foot fence will contain the Beagle-mix you just adopted from the shelter, you leave him in the backyard and go off to work. That night, your new dog greets you in the driveway after terrorizing cottontails in the neighbors’ woods all day. You raise the fence six inches, positive that this will hold him. Flush from his exploits the day before, your dog has to struggle a little harder to make it over 4’6″, but nothing breeds success like success. A little extra oomph, and he’s out again for another rousing day of bunny-bashing.

You raise the fence to five feet this time, absolutely sure there’s no way he can get over that. But again, even more confident of his jumping prowess, your dog tries a wee bit harder, and he’s up and over. There’s a good chance that if you had started with a five-foot fence Snoopy never would have tried to jump it at all. What you’ve done is taught him to jump higher and higher, consistently reinforcing his belief that if he just tries hard enough he can make it.

Bolters have learned to watch for a moment of human inattention, then charge through the tiniest crack in the gate or door.

While the other escape methods work best in the absence of humans, bolting requires the unintentional complicity of the visitor who doesn’t know (or the family member who forgets) that Dash must be manacled and hog-tied before a door is opened to the outside world.

Once again, prevention is the better part of valor. If Dash is taught from early days to wait politely at a door until invited out, he won’t learn the fine art of door-darting.

Preventing Your Dog from Getting Out

You’ve heard this from me before, and you’ll hear it from me again. It’s always easier to prevent a behavior problem from happening than it is to fix it after the fact. There’s no excuse for letting a puppy learn how to be an escape artist. Prevention measures are relatively simple. Don’t let your puppy learn that roaming is rewarding – keep him at home, and stop any embryonic escape attempts in their tracks by taking the following prophylactic measures:

• Provide a safe, secure enclosure. Before the new puppy comes home, make sure your fence is flush to the ground, or even buried a few inches. Check for rotten spots, and crawl behind shrubs and brush to look for holes or loose boards.

• Go overboard on fence height. Raise the fence to at least five feet for a small dog (perhaps higher for very athletic small dogs like Jack Russell Terriers) and six feet for medium to large dogs. Make sure there are no woodpiles, doghouses, deck railings, or other objects close enough to the fence to provide a launch pad.

• Teach your pup to wait at doors until invited through. Use “Wait!” at every door to the outside world, every time you open it, whether you are going to let him go through it or not (see “Training Your Dog to Stay Using Cues,” May 2001).

• Install dog-proof latches on gates. There’s no point in waiting until after he’s been hit by a car to discover that Rover can learn to work the latch. In fact, a padlock will prevent accidental release from the outside by a visitor or intruder at the same time it keeps Rover from practicing his latch-opening skills.

• Minimize male dogs’ motivation to roam by neutering at a young age (eight weeks or not long thereafter), and provide ample exercise and companionship at home (see “When is a Good Time to Spay or Neuter?” June 2000).

• Consider keeping the dog indoors when you’re not home. Boredom and loneliness provide strong motivation to escape, and Rover has plenty of time to plan and execute the great escape when you are not there to interrupt unwanted behaviors such as digging under and chewing through fences.

Retraining Dogs Who Run Away

What if it’s too late for prevention? Maybe you adopted Rover from the shelter after his last adopter taught him to jump a six-foot fence, and then returned him because he kept escaping. Do you give up on Rover, too? Not at all. There are lots of steps you can take to fortify your defenses and keep your escape artist at home, depending on his proclivities.

• Bounders: If you have a scaler, who hooks his nails in the chain link and climbs up and over, you can cover the inside of the fence with a flat, solid surface so his nails can’t get a purchase. A relatively new material, FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) that is now regularly used in animal shelters may withstand tooth and nail, but it may be prohibitively expensive if you have a large fenced area.

Or, you can install a “roof” at the top of the fence that comes in at a 90-degree angle; he won’t be able to reach behind his head and pull himself backward over the ledge when he gets to the top. Some people use wire mesh to create an angled-in barrier – similar to those at the top of prison fences, only without the razor wire! – that impedes jumping.

Another option that I’ve seen work is to top your fences with a “roll bar” that prevents your dog from getting a purchase at the top of the fence and pulling himself over. This is easily installed by running a wire or rope through sections of fat PVC pipe and hanging them along the top of the fence.

If you have a sailor, who gets a good running start and clears the fence with the greatest of ease, plant a hedge or place some other obstacle in his takeoff zone, interrupting his stride and making it impossible for him to jump. If you put your last fence extension inward at a 45-degree angle you may also fool his eye and foil his leap.

• Bolters: The dog who bolts through open doors needs an airlock – a system of double gates so that if he makes it through one, he is still contained behind the next. Self-closing gate springs are a must, to prevent visitors and family members from being careless twice in a row. A good solid recall – teaching Dash to come when called – taught with positive methods, of course, is an excellent backup plan for the door darter (see “Why a Reliable Recall is So Important,” December, 2000). Family members also need to remember not to panic and chase when Dash slips out – a good game of keep-away just makes door-darting more fun for the dog.

• Burrowers: If you’re going to bury the fence for a dedicated burrower, bury deep – at least six inches to a foot. If you bury it two inches, you’ll just teach him to dig deeper. You might do better setting the fence in cement, or lining your fence trench with large rocks or small boulders. You definitely need a cement pad at the gate, since you can’t bury the gate.

• Beavers: If Bucky has learned to gnaw his way through your fence you could be in big trouble. Lining the inside of the fence with heavy-duty wire – like chain link – may stop him. It may not, however, and he may break teeth in his attempts to eat his way out. Sheets of FRP are good for this also. Cement block walls can be effective, but may not be aesthetically pleasing. Ceramic tiles can be glued to the blocks to make them more attractive, but they’re not cheap.

A Shocking Solution?

Many dog owners are turning to electric shock collars to keep their dogs contained. Non-visible electronic fences are quite the rage, especially in communities where shortsighted homeowner regulations prohibit the installation of physical fences. Many dog owners are pleased with the results – no unsightly fence to impede their view of the sunset, and Rover magically stays within his delineated boundaries. Many dog owners are not so pleased. There are a myriad of things that can fail with non-visible shock fencing systems. Here are just a few:

■ For most dogs, there is a stimulus strong enough to entice the dog through the fence. For some, it might be that bunny or squirrel venturing a tad too close. Once the dog is outside the fence line, he’s rarely motivated to brave the shock to get back in.

■ Some dogs learn that the shock stops once they cross the line. Dogs who are determined to escape can learn to grit their teeth and risk one shock to get to the other side.

■ Shock collars are a punishment tool, and their use risks all the potential negative side effects of punishment. They can cause fear and/or aggression. If a dog receives a shock while a child is walking by, he may associate the shock with the child and become aggressive toward children. Or mail carriers. Or joggers. Or other dogs. Some dogs have become terrified and refuse to go into their own yards after receiving shocks from the collar during the training process.

■ Electronic equipment can fail. Batteries die, and when the dog no longer hears the warning beep he is free to come and go as he pleases. Some collars have malfunctioned and delivered repeated shocks to hapless, helpless dogs until their owners arrived home from work at the end of the day to rescue them from their torture.

■ The non-visible fence does not, of course, provide the dog with any protection from intruders, so Rover is at the mercy of other dogs or humans who may enter the yard and do bad things.

■ As an advocate of positive, dog-friendly training methods, I simply reject the idea of shocking dogs around the neck for our convenience. I would much prefer a chain-link dog pen with a top, set on a cement pad, for the master escape artist.

Most dog owners want to be able to give Rover the freedom to play in the yard, however, so when all else fails, I am a bit less loath to use electric shock in a situation where the dog learns by doing. I have, on rare occasion, suggested the use of a single strand of battery-powered electric fence wire, installed at nose level on the inside of the physical fence.

While a shock to the neck that comes out of nowhere seems to confuse and even terrify a good number of dogs, an “ouch!” to the nose when they touch something seems to make more sense. After one, or maybe two touches, most dogs leave the fence alone without apparent long-term psychological trauma. A last resort, perhaps, and a very aversive one, but preferable to being hit by a car.

Any Dog Can Escape a Yard

I’m far more careful now than I was in the Otis days; my dogs are never left in the backyard if no one is home to monitor their activities. Still, that doesn’t mean that accidents don’t happen. Just the other day, my phone rang. I answered, and it was Helen, my assistant, calling from the training center a few hundred feet from the house.

“I have Lucy,” she said.

WHAT?!

Lucy was supposed to be safely in the backyard! I dashed out to find the back gate open – left that way by the usually-very-careful guy who mows our lawn. Tucker was safely indoors, Dubhy and Katie were still in the backyard – only Lucy had made the great escape, and she hadn’t gone far.

It can happen to any of us. I was just thankful someone was home.

Canine Cancer Crisis

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Cancer has to be the most feared diagnosis in all of medicine, one that sends patients and their families on a bewildering journey through statistics, treatment options, and life-or-death decisions that have to be made right now. Cancer has become so widespread that the care and treatment of its human patients is one of the world’s largest industries. Now cancer affects a significant percentage of veterinary patients as well.

Most medical dictionaries define cancer as a disease resulting from an abnormal and uncontrolled division of cells that invade and destroy surrounding tissue. In most cases, this cell division creates malignant growths called tumors. Cancer cells often migrate via the blood or lymph, resulting in the development of additional tumors throughout the body.

Cancer has no known cause, but its risk factors include genetics, diet, hormone imbalances, exposure to radiation, viruses, vaccinations, and environmental toxins such as lawn chemicals, flea and tick dips, asbestos, and tobacco smoke.

In the 1960s, about four out of every 1,000 dogs were diagnosed with cancer in the United States each year. At that time, the most common canine cancers involved the breast in females, the testes in males, and connective tissue, skin, lymph nodes, mouth, throat, and bones in both genders.

In 1997, a Morris Animal Foundation survey found that cancer was the leading cause of non-accidental death in America’s dogs. Today nearly half of dogs over age 10 die of cancer.

The similarities between canine and human cancers are striking, but there are differences. For example, dogs have 35 times as much skin cancer as humans, 4 times as many breast tumors, 8 times as much bone cancer, and twice the incidence of leukemia. Humans have 7 times as much lung cancer as dogs and 13 times as much cancer of the stomach and intestines.

Running in the family
In a 1997 Swedish study involving 222,000 dogs, the breeds at highest risk for cancer included Boxers, Giant Schnauzers, and Bernese Mountain Dogs (all of whom had a mortality rate due to cancer of over 30 percent), Irish Wolfhounds, Cocker Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers (over 20 percent), and Pomeranians, Newfoundlands, German Shepherd Dogs, Saint Bernards, Great Danes, Greyhounds, and Basset Hounds (over 10 percent of deaths due to cancer).

English scientists published a study in 1999 that found that in the United Kingdom, Afghan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Standard Poodles, and Rottweilers had the highest incidence of cancer, while Airedales, Beagles, Dachshunds, Irish Setters, Jack Russell Terriers, Rough Collies, and Yorkshire Terriers had a relatively low risk of dying from cancer.

In a 2003 Danish Kennel Club study, researchers investigated the age and cause of death for nearly 3,000 dogs and found that cancer affected 14.5 percent of the dogs studied. Bernese Mountain Dogs, 34.4 percent of whom died of cancer, had the highest cancer rate in Denmark.

Accurate cancer statistics for America’s dogs are hard to come by, but studies published by epidemiologists provide estimates that appear in the following descriptions. Today the most common type of cancer in American dogs is skin cancer, followed by mammary cancer and lymphosarcoma.

Cancer’s symptoms
The early warning signs of cancer in dogs are similar to human warning signs publicized by the American Cancer Society. These include any abnormal swelling (especially a swelling that continues to grow), sores that don’t heal, weight loss, bleeding or discharge from any body opening, a reluctance to move or exercise, a loss of stamina, or difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating.

Any sort of lameness in an older dog, especially large breeds, should be investigated as a potential cancer case. Even minor or subtle symptoms, such as sleeping more than usual, refusing to play, or having less interest in social interaction, can be warning signs.

Types of cancers
There isn’t room to describe every cancer that affects America’s dogs, but the following alphabetical list describes some common diagnoses. Becoming familiar with the descriptions below will help you make sense of these and other canine cancers.

Bladder cancer: Bladder and ureteral cancers are most common in older dogs. While some studies have shown a higher risk in females and other studies found no gender differences, there may be a higher risk in neutered dogs of both sexes.

Bladder tumors have been associated with the use of flea and tick dips, flea and tick shampoos, or exposure to aromatic hydrocarbons such as paraaminobiphenyl, paranitroliphenyl, and betanapthylamine. The authors of one study suggest that it is not the active ingredients in flea and tick products that cause bladder cancer but rather “inert” or “carrier” ingredients such as benzene, toluene, xylene, and petroleum distillates, all of which are known carcinogens and which often make up 95 percent of the total product. They are used as solvents for the active ingredients.

A Purdue University study published in 2004 found that Scottish Terriers exposed to lawn chemicals have an increased incidence of bladder cancer. Scottish Terriers were chosen for the study because they develop bladder cancer 20 times more often than other breeds, but dogs of any breed can develop the disease.

Other bladder cancer risk factors include obesity and living in a marshy area.

Hemangiosarcoma: Originating in the endothelium (the lining of the spleen and blood vessels), hemangiosarcoma forms highly malignant tumors that develop throughout the body, especially in the spleen, liver, and heart.

German Shepherd Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Boxers, and English Setters are at higher than average risk, and the disease is most common in middle-aged or older dogs of medium to large size. In many cases, symptoms are noticed only after the disease has progressed to an advanced stage.

Initial symptoms include bleeding (especially nosebleeds), weakness, pale mucous membranes in the mouth and eyes, panting, and abdominal swelling. Death often occurs quickly, within one to four months of diagnosis. Many dogs with this disease die suddenly without manifesting clinical symptoms.

Spayed females are four times more likely to develop vascular tumors (cardiac hemangiosarcomas) than intact females; neutered males are also at higher risk of hemangiosarcoma than intact males.

Histiocytosis: The most common cancer found in Bernese Mountain Dogs, histiocytosis is rare in other breeds, although it can occur in Rottweilers, Golden Retrievers, and Flat-Coated Retrievers. Its symptoms include depression, fatigue, lethargy, loss of appetite, and weight loss. Malignant histiocytosis progresses rapidly and has usually metastasized by the time symptoms develop. Most patients die within two to four months of diagnosis. Systemic histiocytosis creates skin abnormalities on the face and legs.

Most patients are middle-aged or older. Histiocytosis that spreads to the lungs can interfere with breathing, and anemia is another common symptom.

Histiocytomas are benign tumors that usually appear on the head of dogs under three years of age. They are not considered a health risk.

Leukemia: Leukemia, or chronic lymphocytic leukemia (CLL), usually affects older dogs and involves the rapid reproduction of mature lymphocytes throughout the body, including the bone marrow. Because elevated circulating lymphocyte counts are easily identified in complete blood panel tests, CLL is often discovered when the blood is tested for other reasons.

Chronic lymphocytic leukemia tends to progress slowly and is often not treated until the circulating lymphocyte count increases to very high levels or the dog becomes lethargic, CLL’s main symptom.

The condition can progress to a lymphoblastic crisis, also called lymphoblastic leukemia, which is a more aggressive form of the disease, comparable to advanced stage lymphosarcoma. With conventional treatment, most dogs with lymphoblastic leukemia survive for about a year.

Lung cancer: While unusual in dogs, lung cancer does occur, and the number of cases diagnosed each year appears to be increasing. However, this may be the result of improved diagnostic techniques rather than an increasing number of cases.

According to some research, short-nosed breeds exposed to secondhand smoke have twice as much risk of lung cancer than long-nosed breeds. (Conversely, long-nosed breeds living with smokers have an increased risk of nasal cancer.) Exposure to asbestos can increase the risk of cancer of the lining of the lungs (mesothelioma), and dogs with this type of cancer are likely to live with owners whose work or hobbies exposed them to asbestos.

Lymphosarcoma (Lymphoma): The third most-common cancer in dogs, lymphosarcoma (also known as lymphoma) affects lymphocytes (a type of white blood cell) and tissue of the lymph nodes, spleen, liver, gastrointestinal tract, and bone marrow.

Although lymphosarcoma strikes dogs of all ages, most patients are over age five, with males and females at equal risk. Boxers, German Shepherd Dogs, Doberman Pinschers, Golden Retrievers, Scotties, West Highland White Terriers, and Pointers may be most vulnerable to this disease.

There are five classifications of lymphosarcoma, depending on the tumor’s primary location.

The most common type involves external lymph nodes. It is also the most likely to be overlooked because many dogs have only mild symptoms such as fatigue or decreased appetite. More obvious symptoms include weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst or urination, weakness, or difficulty breathing. In some cases, the only signs are enlarged lymph nodes under the neck, behind the knees, or in front of the shoulders.

The other classifications are gastrointestinal (symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and loss of appetite), mediastinal (affecting the chest, creating breathing problems and excessive thirst and urination), cutaneous (affecting the skin, which can be dry, flaky, scaly, irritated, and itchy), and bone marrow (producing anemia, infections, and bleeding).

Because lymphosarcoma spreads quickly, its diagnosis involves biopsies, aspiration of affected tissue, blood tests, urinalysis, and a search for tumors throughout the body using X-rays, sonograms, or other methods.

Mammary cancer: The most common cancer in female dogs is breast or mammary cancer. According to some studies, mammary tumors are more common in purebred dogs than in mixed-breed dogs of the same age, and they are far more common in dogs that are intact or were not spayed until after age two and a half years. Spaying offers maximum protection to dogs spayed before their first heat cycle and almost as much protection to those spayed before their second season. Obesity is a risk factor for mammary cancer, and the breasts most likely to be affected are those farthest from the head.

Approximately half of dogs with mammary gland tumors have more than one. These tumors tend to develop between the age 6 and 10 years.

Mammary tumors vary by size, texture, and condition. They may contain fluid or be ulcerated or inflamed. None of these symptoms reveals whether a tumor is malignant, and in dogs that have not been spayed, about half the tumors tested are benign.

Lymph node involvement increases the risk of cancer spreading to the lungs or other organs.

Survival rates are higher for dogs with small rather than large tumors and for dogs whose tumors have not metastasized.

Osteosarcoma: Highly aggressive and fast growing, osteosarcoma affects more than 8,000 American dogs every year and causes an estimated 85 percent of all canine bone tumors.

The illness has been diagnosed in six-month-old puppies, but it is most common in older Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Great Pyrenees, Saint Bernards, Newfoundlands, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Irish Wolfhounds, Rottweilers, Labrador Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers, Weimaraners, Boxers, and other large-breed dogs. It is almost 500 times more likely to affect dogs weighing over 35 kilograms (about 80 pounds) than those weighing less than 10 kilograms (about 23 pounds), and males are at greater risk than females.

Any stress on weight-bearing legs is a risk factor, including previous fractures and infections. Bone tumors are most likely to affect the legs but can also occur in the skull, ribs, vertebrae, or pelvis.

Osteosarcoma is twice as common in spayed females and neutered males as in their intact counterparts.

After producing tumors that weaken bones, osteosarcoma spreads throughout the body. Its main symptoms – lameness, intermittent pain, leg swelling, and fractures at the tumor site – may be mistaken for arthritis or other chronic conditions until the disease is advanced. As pain increases, behavioral symptoms such as irritability, aggression, and a reluctance to exercise become more obvious.

Without treatment, most dogs with osteosarcoma die within two months of diagnosis, and only 20 percent survive for two years. Limb amputation is commonly performed to provide pain relief, but it does not usually cure the disease or prevent its metastasis. The most common cause of death is the spread of cancer to the lungs.

Prostate cancer: In humans, prostate cancer is a common but slow-growing cancer that affects older men. In dogs (the only other species to have significant amounts of prostate cancer) the disease is fast-growing, aggressive, and likely to spread to lymph nodes, lungs, and bones. In one study, one out of every 150 male dogs age eight and older was found to have prostate cancer. In most cases, prostate cancer is diagnosed in its advanced stages.

Skin cancer: The skin is the most prevalent tumor location in dogs, comprising an estimated 58 percent of all canine cancers. Most skin cancer tumors contain mast cells, squamous cells, or melanin-pigmented cells. These tumors are usually soft or solid raised, nodular masses. If malignant (many are benign), treatment depends on their stage or grade.

Mast cell tumors, also called mastocytomas or mast cell sarcomas, are the most frequently diagnosed cancers in dogs. They are most common in middle-aged Boxers, Pugs, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Boston Terriers, Schnauzers, Beagles, Labrador Retrievers, Dachshunds, Fox Terriers, English Bulldogs, Staffordshire Terriers, and mixed-breed dogs.

Squamous cell carcinomas are common in lightly pigmented dogs such as Beagles, Dalmatians, Whippets, and white English Bull Terriers. Nail bed squamous cell carcinomas tend to occur in black-coated large-breed dogs.

Melanomas are usually solitary black tumors. Melanomas of the mouth and nail bed are usually malignant.

Testicular cancer: Human males tend to develop only one type of testicular cancer (seminomas) while intact dogs can develop any of three different types (Sertoli cell tumors, seminomas, and interstitial cell tumors).

Canine risk factors include undescended testicles, which remain in the body cavity instead of migrating to the scrotum, as well as inguinal hernias. Neutering prevents the development of testicular cancer. Breeds associated with testicular tumors include Samoyeds, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, and English Bulldogs.

Links between cancer and environmental toxins have long been suspected, and during the Vietnam War, working dogs exposed to parasitic infections, chemicals used to treat those infections, and agricultural chemicals such as herbicides developed increased levels of testicular cancer.

More on the way
In the coming months, we will explore conventional, complementary/ alternative, and support therapies for canine cancer. Next month, we’ll discuss what works and what doesn’t in conventional cancer treatment – and how much it costs.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Cancer Treatments for Dogs”

-Author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, Labrador Retriever, and red tabby cat.

Hurricane Katrina

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Dear Readers,

In light of the devastation wrought by Hurricane Katrina, many dogs and other companion animals are in desperate need of rescue, shelter, and the opportunity to be reunited with their caregivers or find new homes. One of the few organizations in a strong position to provide direct rescue and shelter to displaced animals is the Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine in Baton Rouge. Please consider making a donation to their rescue effort. Make checks payable to the LVMA Dr. Walter J. Ernst Veterinary Memorial Foundation (write “Katrina Fund” on the memo line) and send to the LVMA, 8550 United Plaza Blvd., Suite 1001, Baton Rouge, LA 70809. They will be able to use these funds quickly. You may designate that your donation be used to care for animals directly, or that it may be used to support the displaced veterinarians who are now in Baton Rouge helping to provide care for stranded animals. For more information, please call toll-free (888) 773-6489 between 8:00 am and 6:00 pm, or e-mail Katrina@ldaf.louisiana.gov. You can also consult the LSU web site at www.vetmed.lsu.edu/#DONATIONS.

-Nancy Kerns, Editor

What is Bite Inhibition?

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When my beloved Border Collie, Rupert, was a puppy, I was pleased that he wasn’t one of those “sharky” pups who was forever putting his pin-sharp teeth through my skin. In fact, I was so grateful, I never ever stopped to wonder why he never tried to bite or chew on me, not even a tiny bit.

If we were playing or roughhousing, he’d occasionally grab a pant leg or sweatshirt sleeve in hopes of initiating an exhilarating game of tug, but if he accidently put his teeth on my wrist or ankle, he’d immediately let go and cower, as if worried he’d get hit. I certainly never hit him, and he was raised on a sheep ranch, where I figure the farming family members were probably rather too busy to take time away from 1,000 sheep and about 12 other dogs to abuse any individual puppy. I guessed that he simply was an incredibly sweet and submissive puppy, ever sensitive to causing another creature a bit of harm.

I was dead wrong.

I still have no idea how or where Rupert developed his extreme reluctance to put his teeth on me or anyone else. But what I learned later in Rupe’s life was that because he had never learned how to gently put his teeth on me or anyone else, when he was scared enough or backed into a corner, he would defend himself with a single, quick bite that punctured skin.

I didn’t get it until after I started editing this magazine, and had the opportunity to read a number of dog training books and attend lectures on dog training and behavior. By then, Rupert had bitten two people, about five years apart: the five-year-old daughter of a good friend, who had (unbeknownst to me or her mom) chased him into a room from which he could not escape and then tried to hug him, and a teenaged girl who leaned into the open back of my little station wagon, trying to pet him (despite the fact that he was cowering away from her). Both bites punctured the skin, and both bites were to the child’s face.

You can imagine; I could not have been more mortified.

I knew that in each instance he was frightened, but I could not understand why his bite was so hard in each instance – until I learned about “bite inhibition,” and what an important thing it is for dogs to learn. You can have the benefit of learning about it now, before you get your next puppy, I hope. See Training Editor Pat Miller’s article, “Bite-Me-Not,” in this issue.

While this may seem counter-intuitive to a dog owner who is highly concerned about creating a companion dog who is friendly and sociable, I think about it like this: If my darling but puncture-prone Rupert had growled at either one of the children before he bit them, I’m sure that both of them would have removed themselves from his vicinity – fast – and saved themselves a trip to the emergency room. Rupert never once growled at anyone in his lifetime, but that was clearly not a sign that he was okay with kids.

As I’ve said so many times in the past, I can’t wait for the opportunity to do things right with my next dog. Maybe you won’t have to wait so long.

Establishing a Good Bite Inhibition

By Pat Miller

Animal care professionals are fond of saying, “All dogs will bite, given the right (wrong) circumstances.” If that’s the case, how have I managed to suffer only two punctures in a 30-plus-year career working with dogs? Partly through reading and responding to canine body language well enough to avoid provoking an attack (see “How to Save Yourself,” September 2005). Partly, I’m sure, through luck. But largely, I suspect, because many dogs possess a wonderful quality known as “bite inhibition.”

Unconscious control

Bite inhibition is the ability of a dog to control the force of his bite. Without it, even a playful grab at your sleeve when you are wrestling with your dog or a quick snap of shocked self-defense (when you accidently step on his tail, for example) can result in a serious or painful puncture. In contrast, a dog in those same circumstances who has well-developed bite inhibition can grab your wrist and even gently shake it, or bite at the ankle of the foot that is planted on his tail –without leaving a mark or causing you more than a moment’s minor discomfort.

Canine behaviorists theorize that dogs have evolved to normally develop bite inhibition for good reason. In canine society, dogs normally use escalation of force effectively to get their messages across without inflicting grievous injury upon each other. This is important from a survival standpoint; if pack members consistently punctured each others’ skins over trivial issues, they’d risk their own injury and debilitation, even death, as well as that of the pack mates they depend upon for mutual protection, food gathering, and survival. Even when encountering canines from an “alien” pack, the less actual physical engagement, the better the chances of survival for all concerned.

Fortunately for humans, this bite inhibition often transfers to us, as members of our canines’ social groups.

How to get it
Bite inhibition is clearly a desirable thing. So how do you get it? Or more correctly, how does your dog get it? It’s not something you’ll find on the shelf of your local pet supply store!

Bite inhibition has both genetic and environmental components. That is, a dog can inherit the potential to use gentle bite pressure from parents who are also genetically programmed to mouth softly, and he can also learn to bite softly. Of course, the more strongly a desirable behavior trait is encoded in the genes, the easier it is to nurture appropriate behaviors. If your pup lacks good genes for bite inhibition, he’ll need lots of environmental influence – the sooner, the better.

Genetics of bite inhibition is one of the very important reasons to meet a pup’s parents, if possible, when you purchase from a breeder. While sometimes one or both parents simply aren’t available for legitimate reasons, if the breeder declines because either of the parents aren’t friendly, have bitten in the past, or cautions you to be careful when interacting with them, you may not want to risk purchasing a puppy from those lines. Make it a point to specifically ask if either parent has ever bitten, and if so, the severity of the bite, and how the breeder would characterize both dogs’ levels of bite inhibition. If she’s not willing to discuss the topic, doesn’t understand the question, or seems not to be forthcoming with information, make your puppy-purchase decision accordingly.

If you’re adopting from a shelter, Mom and Dad aren’t likely to be around. When you can’t meet parents, your personal observations during puppy selection – always important anyway – become even more critical. Most puppies will engage in some degree of mouthing – it’s how they explore their world. However, if you play with a number of puppies, you’ll discover that some mouth your hands gently, others will repeatedly bite hard enough with their wickedly sharp baby teeth to cause pain, and still others will even draw blood.

Those who consistently mouth gently have a healthy degree of innate bite inhibition and/or have learned their lessons well from Momdog and siblings who let them know when they bite too hard. Those who cause pain or draw blood need more lessons. There’s a good chance they can still turn into great dogs – and it will take more input on your part to teach them to be gentle with their teeth. The older a pup is, the more effort it will take to install bite inhibition, and the greater the likelihood that you’ll be less successful.

One of the reasons it’s such a tragedy to remove a pup from his litter too soon is that he’ll miss those all-important bite-inhibition lessons from Momdog and sibs. This is also one of the big drawbacks of adopting a singleton – a pup with no littermates. I strongly recommend you wait to take your new pup home until he’s at least seven weeks, preferably eight, regardless of how eager the breeder is to give him up. Your own bite inhibition lessons can never be as effective with your pup as those from his own kin. No matter how hard we try, we just can’t speak dog as well as dogs can.

Don’t punish!
In past times, and unfortunately sometimes still today, dog owners were counseled to use aversives to try to teach bite inhibition. If a puppy gnawed on your hands, some trainers suggested holding his muzzle closed as punishment, “cuffing” him under the chin with an open palm, or worse, shoving a fist down the pup’s throat. In a word… “Don’t!”

Not only are these methods abusive and have the potential to teach your pup to fear your hands, they can also trigger aggressive responses from assertive or fearfully defensive pups. If they do succeed in putting a stop to the mouthing, you may have taught the pup that his only options are to “Not Bite” or to “Bite Really Hard” rather than the third important “If You Must Bite, Bite Gently” option.

Remember, all dogs bite, given the right (wrong) set of circumstances. With enough provocation, even the most tolerant and gentle of dogs might be induced to put her mouth on human skin. With good bite inhibition, provocation is likely to result in a polite, “Please don’t do that” mouth-on-skin warning. Without it, the provoked dog is likely to cause serious damage when he puts his teeth on someone.

Things to do
The older a dog is when you start trying to teach bite inhibition, the greater the likelihood that, while you may succeed in teaching the dog to consciously use his mouth more gently, he will still fall back into hard biting during times of stress and arousal.

If you have a pup with naturally good bite inhibition, consider yourself blessed, and take steps to preserve this valuable natural resource. If not, start immediately to cultivate bite inhibition.

Play fetch games with your pup to direct his mouth toward appropriate toys to take some of the “wild puppy” edge off his bite. Be sure to give him plenty of exercise daily. A tired pup is a well-behaved pup. Consult your vet for guidance on how much exercise is appropriate for your pup.

Work with his bite inhibition while he’s in an ex-pen or on a tether so you can calmly escape his shark teeth. Begin petting him and playing gently. As long as he’s not causing pain, even if he’s putting his mouth on you with some pressure, continue playing.

If he bites and hurts you, calmly say “Ouch!” and walk away from him. Step outside the reach of the tether, or exit the ex-pen so he can’t follow you and continue to bite. The “Ouch!” isn’t intended to stop the biting; it only marks the behavior – tells him what he did that made you leave. This is negative punishment – his biting behavior makes a good thing – you – go away.

Wait 20-30 seconds to give him time to calm down, then go back to him and calmly resume playing. If he’s barking and aroused, wait to return until he settles. As long as he bites softly, continue playing. Any time his bite hurts, say “Ouch!” and leave.

If several repetitions don’t seem to reduce hard biting, give him longer time-outs to give him more time to settle.

Over time, as he learns to control his hardest biting, you can raise the bar – use the same methods to gradually shape a softer and softer mouth. When he’s no longer biting hard enough to hurt, use your “Ouch” technique for moderately hard bites, then medium ones, then finally, as he outgrows the puppy stage at 5-6 months, for any bites to skin at all.

If you must handle him when he’s being “bitey” – to groom, trim his nails, attach his leash – keep his teeth busy nibbling at treats you hold in one hand while you work with the other, or have a helper feed treats so you have both hands free to groom, trim, or leash.

This method of marking the inappropriate behavior and walking away from the pup imitates, to some degree, the behavior of Momdog and littermates when a pup bites too hard. If needle-sharp teeth clamp too hard on Momdog’s tender teats, she may stand up and exit the den. Pups learn to nurse gently to keep the milk bar open. Similarly, when pups play together, if one is too rough his playmate may “Yipe!” and decline to continue the game. Pup learns to inhibit his bite to keep the fun happening.

Some trainers teach owners to give a high-pitched “Yipe!” or “Ouch!” to mimic a littermate’s protestations. While this can work with some pups, others find it more arousing – perhaps because we don’t really know what we’re saying when we try to speak Dog.

I advise my clients to skip trying to imitate a puppy “Yipe!” and just use a calm “Ouch!” as a marker. If you do try the “Yipe!” once or twice and it works, great. If it doesn’t, don’t keep doing it! Simply replace it with a more composed marker.

More tips
Pups with poor bite inhibition can exhibit exceedingly frustrating behaviors. It’s easy to lose patience when those needle-sharp puppy canines sink into your skin. Remember that these “sharky” little guys usually love reactions; you’re playing into their paws when you lose your temper with them.

Use management solutions such as crates and baby gates so your pup doesn’t have access to you when you’re dressed up. Have treats and toys handy so you can toss them away from you and divert him when he’s approaching with mayhem on his mind. Do lots of work on the tether so you can repeatedly send the message that hard bites make the good stuff go away.

Young children should play with a shark-pup only under direct supervision, and only when the puppy is in a mellow mood. Most pups develop predictable cycles – if you know he’s calmest early to mid-afternoon, that’s when he can play with the kids. Controlled games only – no running around the backyard squealing while puppy tries to latch onto chubby, tender toddler legs!

If you’re doing positive training, with treats – and of course we hope you are – a hard-mouthed puppy can bring you to tears and leave your fingers bleeding as he clamps down on treats. It’s reassuring to know it gets easier when they lose their sharp baby teeth at five to six months, but meanwhile you’re tempted to stop training, or at least stop using treats! Try these temporary solutions:

• Keep your treat hidden in your closed fist until you feel your pup’s mouth soften. Then open your hand and feed the treat from the palm of your hand like you would feed a horse. This teaches the pup he gets the treat when his mouth is soft, and prevents finger-shredding because he’s taking it from your palm.

• Use metal finger splints. Available over-the-counter at pharmacies, these handy gadgets protect your fingers and teach him to be soft because most dogs don’t like to bite on metal.

• Feed treats from a metal spoon. This keeps your fingers out of his mouth and teaches him to be gentle; few dogs like to bite metal.

• Toss treats on the floor instead of handfeeding. This is a temporary solution, as there are many times in training when it’s far preferable to feed from the hand than the floor. On occasion though, it can save your fingers – and your sanity.

It may take a while to see the positive results of your gradual bite-inhibition lessons, but it’s worth it. Lucy, our Cardigan Corgi came to us at five months of age with a pretty hard bite – you knew when she took a treat from your fingers! It took months, and a lot of patience, to get her bite to soften.

At first it seemed we made no progress at all. Then for several months she’d start to bite down, I’d say “Ouch!” and feel her pause and relax her mouth before taking the treat. Now, at age 18 months, she takes treats sweetly, leaving fingers behind, intact, without a reminder. That alone was worth the effort, and I pray that it translates to true bite inhibition and nothing more than a Level 2 bite should the occasion ever arise that she feels compelled to put her teeth on human skin in earnest.

Also With This Article
“What To Do When Your Dog Bites”

-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

Wobenzym: A Digestive Enzyme Supplement for Dogs

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Charles Green is America’s largest Wobenzym distributor. When his Las Vegas supplement store was listed as a resource in the article, over a thousand of us ordered the product for our dogs.

“I didn’t know whether to kiss you guys or tear my hair,” says Green. “You bought just about all the Wobenzym we had, and this is a product that’s hard to keep in stock. Most ordered it to help their dogs’ arthritis or cancer. I know it works because today, over four years later, we’re still getting repeat orders from many of the same people. Some are now taking it themselves as well as giving it to their dogs.”

What is Wobenzym?

In Germany, Wobenzym is second in popularity only to aspirin among over-the-counter remedies. It’s also the most thoroughly researched enzyme supplement available worldwide. (The product’s proper name is Wobenzym N, but most call it Wobenzym for short.) Its blend of pancreatin, trypsin, chymotrypsin, bromelain, papain, and rutin would normally act as a digestive aid, but Wobenzym is taken between meals on an empty stomach and its enteric coating protects these ingredients until they are released in the small intestine. From there they move throughout the body, reducing inflammation wherever it occurs by breaking harmful proteins into smaller chains of amino acids. This type of treatment is called “systemic oral enzyme therapy.”

Wobenzym was developed in the 1950s in the United States by Drs. Max Wolf and Helen Benitez of Columbia University, who named the product “wo” for Wolf, “ben” for Benitez, and “zym” for enzymes. Their research showed that proteolytic (protein-digesting) enzymes have four significant properties when circulating through the body: they break down inflammation, break down harmful fibrous tissue, reduce blood viscosity to prevent harmful clotting without the adverse side effects of aspirin and other blood-thinning medications, and they support immune function.

Despite its benefits, Wobenzym did not become a successful supplement until it moved to Germany. It has since been tested in over a hundred medical studies and clinical trials, most conducted in Europe.

Wobenzym is recommended for bruises, sprains, and all types of sports injuries as well as arthritis and any illness that involves inflammation. European Olympic teams use Wobenzym as a preventive (the result is a reported 50-percent reduction in injuries) and, by increasing the dose, to treat any type of trauma injury and accelerate healing.

The bioflavonoid rutin, one of Wobenzym’s ingredients, prevents the discoloration and pain associated with bruises. German surgeons routinely prescribe Wobenzym to prevent bruising, swelling, edema, and pain, significantly reducing post-surgical recovery time, and German hospitals give large amounts to those with serious injuries to prevent brain swelling and speed recovery.

According to its manufacturer, Wobenzym has been shown in clinical trials and medical studies to reduce the incidence of fatal blood clots resulting from the sudden breakdown of vulnerable plaque; increase feelings of well-being; help prevent heart attacks and strokes; help protect the body from environmental toxins; and effectively treat arthritis, autoimmune disorders, rheumatic, and cardiovascular diseases, infections, tumor illnesses, herpes and other viral infections, cancer, hepatitis C, recurrent miscarriages, and many degenerative diseases.

The label-recommended human dose is three tablets twice daily, taken at least 45 minutes before meals, or as recommended by a health care professional. Those health care recommendations are often substantially larger, as Charles Green learned while interviewing physicians and scientists about Wobenzym on his “Health Talk” radio show.

“I’m always being told by these experts,” he says, “that the label dose is extremely conservative. It’s really the recommended maintenance dose for healthy 18-year-olds. As we age or become ill or injured, our bodies deplete their stored enzymes, so larger doses are required for maintenance.

“Among middle-aged arthritis or fibromyalgia sufferers, daily doses of 30 or 40 tablets or more may be needed to alleviate symptoms. Those recovering from accidents, injuries, surgery, or illnesses like cancer often take more. The optimal dose depends on the body’s response. Diarrhea, which results when you take more than you need, is the only adverse side effect documented in humans.

“Anti-inflammatory drugs like aspirin, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and Cox-2 inhibitors kill thousands of Americans and hospitalize many more for the treatment of side effects. Wobenzym is sold in over 40 countries, is taken by millions every day, and has never killed anyone.”

Wobenzym for Dogs?

Two types of Wobenzym are available in the U.S. Both have the same contents, but their coatings differ. Plain Wobenzym is light beige in color, while the product sold as Fido-Wobenzym has a red coating and a less pronounced odor.

“There’s a lot of confusion about Fido-Wobenzym,” says Green. “Some Web sites state that it’s a special formulation developed just for canines, or that the recommended doses of the two versions are different. Neither statement is true.”

Fido-Wobenzym is the same product that’s sold for human use in Europe. Its red coating contains a small amount of sugar and food dyes, and because American consumers wanted a sugar-free product that doesn’t contain coloring agents, the manufacturer created a plain no-sugar coating for the U.S. market. Some people like the red coating better – it’s a matter of personal preference.

Literally, the only difference between the red product and the beige product is the coating, and the only difference between the red product and Fido-Wobenzym is the label. Says Green, “Fido-Wobenzym comes in small containers of 33 or 99 tablets, which makes it more expensive, while regular Wobenzym, which is sold in bottles holding 200, 400, or 800 tablets, is more economical.”

Fido-Wobenzym Arthritis Trial

In 2002, Beverly Cappel, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Chestnut Ridge, New York, conducted a double-blind placebo-controlled crossover study of Wobenzym N/Fido-Wobenzym in the care and manage-ment of canine arthritis. Sixty dogs diagnosed with various types of arthritis were divided into two groups and given Fido-Wobenzym or identical placebo tablets for six to nine weeks. The study tested doses of one tablet twice per day or two tablets twice per day.

“In Europe, where this preparation is widely used,” explains Dr. Cappel, “it is known to exert joint-sparing and anti-inflammatory effects without the gastrointestinal complications or other complications associated with NSAIDs.”

The dogs in the study continued with their existing protocol (if any) of prescribed medication or natural remedies. Most of the dogs were already receiving supplements such as glucosamine sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), boswellia, alfalfa, and other arthritis-support herbs as well as antioxidant vitamins.

“This was a placebo-controlled trial,” says Dr. Cappel, “but it was obvious which dogs were taking the Wobenzym. They were the ones who stopped limping soon after the study started and were able to go for longer walks. Their owners noted that these dogs appeared to have much less pain. They started acting like young dogs again. A key benefit was the reduction of inflammation. Several patients who responded well were older dogs who were having trouble getting up or couldn’t do stairs or would only go for very short walks. Being able to get up the stairs again or go for longer walks – those are priceless benefits. After the study concluded, many owners came in for refills.”

In a separate small observational study conducted at the same time, eight dogs with cancer were given Fido-Wobenzym. In Europe, Wobenzym is a popular supplement for those with cancer because it may prevent metastasis. “We saw excellent results with small tumors and extended survival periods,” reports Dr. Cappel. “Of the group, two died, but the others did well. Their owners and our own clinical and laboratory indications indicated that the tumors either became static or regressed.”

Most of these dogs were also being given alternative cancer treatments such as carnivora (a European extract of the carnivorous herb Venus fly trap), Chinese herbs, raw-food diets, and turmeric. “Even if your pet is already being given holistic support for cancer,” says Dr. Cappel, “the systemic enzymes seem to help there, too.”

Digestive Enzymes Are Not For Every Dog

But Wobenzym is not without side effects, at least in some dogs. Dr. Cappel first noticed platelet problems in patients whose owners were already giving them Wobenzym for arthritis or cancer at doses higher than Fido-Wobenzym’s label recommendation.

She says that Wobenzym is not likely to produce adverse effects at doses of up to two tablets twice per day (four tablets daily), but as a precaution, she recommends no more than three tablets per day, which she considers very safe. Owners of dogs taking higher amounts, such as six or more tablets daily, should watch for any of the following symptoms, which might indicate platelet problems, internal bleeding, or anemia: small blood spots on the gums, pale gums, any abnormal bleeding, or bloodshot eyes.

Among Dr. Cappel’s patients who developed platelet problems, none became sufficiently anemic to develop white or pale gums. The problem, which occurred in male and female dogs of different ages, breeds, sizes, and conditions, several of which ate a raw home-prepared diet, developed within the first six weeks of daily supplementation with Wobenzym. Immediately reducing the dose or stopping the product resolved these symptoms.

Many dogs have taken substantially larger doses with no difficulty, as described later in this article, but Wobenzym’s combination of enzymes can thin the blood. Wobenzym is not recommended for dogs with bleeding or clotting disorders or for any animal on medication that causes blood thinning.

Those who give their dogs digestive enzymes with food don’t have to worry about platelet problems even if their dogs are on blood-thinning medication or suffer from a bleeding disorder because enzyme powders that are sprinkled on food according to label directions do their work in the stomach, assisting digestion. In systemic oral enzyme therapy, which is where Wobenzym is used, the enzymes are protected from stomach acid and do not interact with food.

Enzymes for Penny’s Eye Ulcer

In November 2000, Penny, a six-year-old Boxer belonging to San Diego resident Pam Klassen, scratched her eye while chasing lizards in deep brush at her favorite lake. The eye became very sore, infected, and running with pus. Penny’s veterinarian prescribed an antibiotic ointment, but that didn’t help.

“Over the next two months we tried several different antibiotics, but nothing seemed to work,” Klassen reports. “The ulcer kept getting worse. The vet finally sent us to a specialist who wanted to perform an operation on her eye, sewing her third eyelid over the eye in hopes of healing the ulcer. The cost would be over a thousand dollars, and he said that it didn’t always work. Fortunately, I had just read the issue of WDJ that contained the ‘Banking on Enzymes’ article (January 2001). After reading about how it helped a dog with cancer and another with a back injury, I decided to give it a try for Penny’s ulcer.”

Klassen started Penny on five Wobenzym tablets per day and added five per day until she saw improvement. “This maxed out at giving her 40 tabs per day in four divided doses of 10 tablets at a time,” she says. “The only side effect she showed was a little diarrhea and gas. If she seemed uncomfortable with her stomach, I would back off a day and let her body rest.

“I first observed that Penny seemed to be in less pain. She was not holding her eye shut, and the discharge slowed, eventually became clear, and finally stopped altogether. Pretty soon I saw tiny blood vessels all over the milky color of the ulcer, which I had learned is a good sign of healing. Then the blood vessels went away and only a slight milky area was visible. That, too, disappeared, and at that point, I began to reduce her dosage. Eventually her eye became clear, sparkly, and healthy with no apparent long-term damage.”

Penny’s first ulcer took about six weeks to cure. “Then she got an ulcer in her other eye,” says Klassen. “I started giving her Wobenzym right away without all the extra vitamins I had used the first time. This time she took 20 tablets per day for less than three weeks, and the ulcer disappeared. She is such a stinker about chasing critters, she is prone to these ulcers. Now if I catch her digging in the yard and she has dirt in her eyes, I promptly wash them out with a mild salt water solution and put her on Wobenzym for several days. Usually she never develops an ulcer at all.

“I saw a woman walking at the lake with a Boxer and while talking to her, I could see that her dog had a big milky ulcer on his eye. When she said they were having a hard time curing it, I told her about my experience. She bought Wobenzym, tried it, and completely cured her dog’s ulcer. This product is amazing! I now take it myself every day as a preventive.”

A Veterinarian’s Enzyme Protocol

Mary Foster, DVM, who practices veterinary medicine in Gainesville, Florida, became interested in systemic oral enzymes five years ago. She has been prescribing Wobenzym for canine patients ever since.

One of her first Wobenzym patients was Elliott, a large Terrier mix with hip dysplasia and severe arthritis in both knees. Elliott was 13 when he slipped on a hardwood floor and couldn’t get up. His owner, Leanne Lawrence, took him to three veterinarians, all of whom recommended that Elliott be euthanized to put him out of his misery. Then she found Dr. Foster, who makes house calls.

“I always carry Wobenzym with me,” says Dr. Foster, “and as soon as I saw Elliot, I started him on five tablets per hour. I also had Leanne encourage him to stand and walk on a safe, carpeted surface, because motion often helps dogs with his condition feel better. Just after his third dose, he and Leanne were walking down the street.”

Elliot resumed his active, roaming life, even though he was diagnosed with bone cancer at 15. “I treated him homeopathically and holistically,” says Dr. Foster, “and the bone tumor went away. It really amazed the veterinarian who did his biopsy, along with everyone else. Elliot finally died in his sleep last winter at 17.”

Dr. Foster prescribes Wobenzym for arthritis, hip dysplasia, injuries, skin and coat problems, autoimmune disorders, and any condition that involves inflammation. Although she uses doses much higher than those on the label, her patients have yet to experience any platelet problems or signs of anemia. “I’ve given it to more than a hundred dogs, most of whom I see on a regular basis,” she says. “Some have been taking it every day for five years. The only situation where I wouldn’t use it would be if the dog has a stomach ulcer, which is rare but can result from taking certain medications.”

How does Dr. Foster decide how much to use? “I usually give it to effect,” she explains. “This means increasing the dose until symptoms respond. For most conditions, I start with one tablet per 10 pounds of body weight up to a maximum of five tablets at a time and give that amount twice or three times a day. In a serious condition where the dog is badly injured or can’t move because of pain, I’ll give that amount more often, like every one or two hours.”

Wobenzym works best if taken on an empty stomach between meals. Dr. Foster reports that most dogs, including her own, will eat the tablets out of her hand. “I use the plain tablets, not the red-coated ones, and they just swallow them. For dogs who aren’t interested, some people flavor the tablets with tuna water. You can give them with a small amount of food if necessary, but it works best without food. For dogs who enjoy catching food, a game of catch can be an easy way to give it.”

Once a dog responds to the initial dose, Dr. Foster stops increasing the amount and looks for an effective maintenance dose. “I study the dog’s symptoms,” she says. “I look for physical comfort, improved range of motion, increased playfulness, and similar improvements. Once the dog is on a daily dose that produces good results, we continue it for several weeks before cutting back. I don’t want to reduce the amount too soon, as a body that’s in damaged condition needs all the enzyme support it can get.

“Then, to see if a smaller dose can maintain good results, we reduce the amount by one or two tablets in each divided dose during the day, then continue at that amount for several weeks unless symptoms recur.”

If the dog injures herself, begins limping, or shows other symptoms, Dr. Foster increases the dose again.

“I’ve noticed that the longer dogs are on a maintenance dose of Wobenzym, the fewer crises they have. It seems to prevent injuries as well as treat them. And the Wobenzym dogs recover much faster from surgery than other dogs. I watch for post-operation swelling and if it occurs, I increase the dose. Otherwise, they just stay on their maintenance dose before and after the operation. If they aren’t already taking Wobenzym, I recommend giving one tablet per 5 pounds of body weight twice a day for small dogs and one tablet per 10 pounds twice a day for large dogs, up to a maximum of five tablets at a time, for a week or two before elective surgery.

“I don’t know what I’d do without Wobenzym,” she concludes. “As far as I’m concerned, it’s a miracle.”

WOBENZYM: OVERVIEW

1. Keep Wobenzym on hand for injuries, or use daily for arthritis, inflammation, skin problems, or auto-immune disease.

2. Follow label directions or use one of the protocols described here.

3. Do not give to dogs with bleeding disorders. Check gums and eyes for spots, paleness, or signs of bleeding. Discontinue or reduce the dose if necessary.

4. Find a safe, effective maintenance dose that keeps your dog comfortable and active.

Understand Why Your Dog Growls

Clients always appear a bit stunned at first when I tell them their dog’s growl is a good thing. In fact, a growl is something to be greatly treasured.

These are my aggression consultation clients, who are in my office in desperation, as a last resort, hoping to find some magic pill that will turn their biting dog into a safe companion. They are often dismayed and alarmed to discover that the paradigm many of us grew up with – punish your dog harshly at the first sign of aggression – has contributed to and exacerbated the serious and dangerous behavior problem that has led them to my door.

professional dog behaviorist

It seems intuitive to punish growling. Growling leads to biting, and dogs who bite people often must be euthanized, so let’s save our dog’s life and nip biting in the bud by punishing him at the first sign of inappropriate behavior. It makes sense, in a way – but when you have a deeper understanding of canine aggression, it’s easy to understand why it’s the absolute wrong thing to do.

A Growl is a Communication Effort

Most dogs don’t want to bite or fight. The behaviors that signal pending aggression are intended first and foremost to warn away a threat. The dog who doesn’t want to bite or fight tries his hardest to make you go away. He may begin with subtle signs of discomfort that are often overlooked by many humans – tension in body movements, a stiffly wagging tail.

“Please,” he says gently, “I don’t want you to be here.”

If you continue to invade his comfort zone, his threats may intensify, with more tension, a hard stare, and a low growl.

“I mean it,” he says more firmly, “I want you to leave.”

If those are ignored, he may become more insistent, with an air snap, a bump of the nose, or even open mouth contact that closes gently on an arm but doesn’t break skin.

“Please,” he says, “don’t make me bite you.”

If that doesn’t succeed in convincing you to leave, the dog may feel compelled to bite hard enough to break skin in his efforts to protect self, territory, members of his social group, or other valuable resources.

Agression is Caused by Stress

What many people don’t realize is that aggression is caused by stress. The stressor may be related to pain, fear, intrusion, threats to resources, past association, or anticipation of any of these things. An assertive, aggressive dog attacks because he’s stressed by the intrusion of another dog or human into his territory. A fearful dog bites because he’s stressed by the approach of a human. An injured dog lacerates the hand of his rescuer because he’s stressed by pain.

When you punish a growl or other early warning signs, you may succeed in suppressing the growl, snarl, snap, or other warning behavior – but you don’t take away the stress that caused the growl in the first place. In fact, you increase the stress, because now you, the dog’s owner, have become unpredictable and violent as well.

Worst of all, and most significantly, if you succeed in suppressing the warning signs, you end up with a dog who bites without warning. He has learned that it’s not safe to warn, so he doesn’t.

dog stress triggers

If a dog is frightened of children, he may growl when a child approaches. You, conscientious and responsible owner, are well aware of the stigma – and fate – of dogs who bite children, so you punish your dog with a yank on the leash and a loud “No! Bad dog!” Every time your dog growls at a child you do this, and quickly your dog’s fear of children is confirmed – children do make bad things happen! He likes children even less, but he learns not to growl at them to avoid making you turn mean.

You think he’s learned that it’s not okay to be aggressive to children, because the next time one passes by, there’s no growl.

“Phew,” you think to yourself. “We dodged that bullet!”

Convinced that your dog now accepts children because he no longer growls at them, the next time one approaches and asks if he can pat your dog, you say yes. In fact, your dog has simply learned not to growl, but children still make him very uncomfortable. Your dog is now super-stressed, trying to control his growl as the child gets nearer and nearer so you don’t lose control and punish him, but when the scary child reaches out for him he can’t hold back any longer – he lunges forward and snaps at the child’s face. Fortunately, you’re able to restrain him with the leash so he doesn’t connect. You, the dog, and the child are all quite shaken by the incident.

It’s time to change your thinking.

When Dogs Cry for Help

A growl is a dog’s cry for help. It’s your dog’s way of telling you he can’t tolerate a situation – as if he’s saying, “I can’t handle this, please get me out of here!”

Your first response when you hear your dog growl should be to calmly move him away from the situation, while you make a mental note of what you think may have triggered the growl. Make a graceful exit. If you act stressed you’ll only add to his stress and make a bite more, not less, likely. Don’t worry that removing him rewards his aggression; your first responsibility is to keep others safe and prevent him from biting.

If the growl was triggered by something you were doing, stop doing it. Yes, your dog learned one tiny lesson about how to make you stop doing something he doesn’t like, but you’ll override that when you do lots of lessons about how that thing that made him uncomfortable makes really, really good stuff happen.

This is where counter-conditioning comes in. Your dog growls because he has a negative association with something – say he growls when you touch his paw. For some reason, he’s convinced that having his paw touched is a bad thing. If you start by touching his knee, then feeding him a smidgen of chicken, and keep repeating that, he’ll come to think that you touching his knee makes chicken happen. He’ll want you to touch his leg so he gets a bit of chicken.

Note: Make sure your dog’s discomfort with you touching his paw is not related to pain. If it hurts when you touch him there, counter-conditioning won’t work. It’s a good idea to get a full veterinary workup if there’s any chance your dog’s growling may be pain-related.

When you see him eagerly search for chicken when you touch his knee, you can move your hand slightly lower and touch there, until you get the same “Where’s my chicken?!” response at the new spot. Gradually move closer and closer to his paw, until he’s delighted to have you touch his foot – it makes chicken happen! Now practice with each foot, until he’s uniformly delighted to have you touch all of them. Remember that the touch comes first, so it consistently predicts the imminent arrival of chicken.

If at any time in the process – which could take days, weeks, or even months, depending on the dog and how well you apply the protocol – you see the dog’s tension increase, you’ve moved too quickly. Back up a few inches to where he’s comfortable being touched and start again. Or, there may be other stressors present that are increasing his tension. Do an environment check to be sure nothing else is happening that’s adding to his stress. Have the rowdy grandkids leave the room, give him a little time to relax, and start again.

Remember, dogs can’t tell us in words what’s bothering them, but they can communicate a lot with their body language and canine vocal sounds. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you. Listen with heart and compassion. Be gentle when your dog tells you he needs help. Come to his rescue. Treasure his growl.

-Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. 

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