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Jean Donaldson’s Prep Training for Orthopedic Brace Casting

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The following protocol was written with a specific process in mind: preparing a dog to happily hold still long enough to make a cast of the dog’s leg (needed for making a custom-fit mobility brace). But with a little imagination, you can customize Donaldson’s protocol to train your dog to accept any equipment.

Wearing a Supportive

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You will need 1) Glad Press ‘n Seal Wrap; 2) a roll of gauze; 3) a measuring tape; 4) six jars of meat baby food; 5) your dog’s normal ration for one meal (to be hand-fed); 6) six days lead time before your casting day. Plan on spending about 5 minutes per day in place of one of your dog’s meals; don’t cram multiple sessions into one day.

Any time she fusses or vacates the area, just say, “Oh, too bad!” and wait for her to come back and re-volunteer; whatever you do, don’t coerce her.

Day 1

– Decide where the casting area will be; standardize this and train here every day.

– Assemble all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Put it all down, then pull out a length of the Press ‘n Seal and crinkle it.

– Hand-feed your dog her ration.

– Pull out another length of Press ‘n Seal and wrap it around your dog’s upper (injured) leg.

– Open one jar of baby food and let your dog lick it all out of the jar.

– Unwrap your dog’s leg just before she finishes the baby food, then put everything away.

Day 2

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s upper leg in Press ‘n Seal and then hand-feed her meal as before.

– Unwrap her before she finishes eating.

– Pause a minute or so.

– Wrap her upper leg again in a fresh piece of Press ‘n Seal.

– Open a jar of baby food and let her eat it as before, unwrapping just before she finishes.

Day 3

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s upper leg in Press ‘n Seal and then hand-feed her meal.

– Unwrap before she finishes eating.

– Pause a minute or so.

– Wrap her entire leg in a new piece of Press ‘n Seal.

– Give her the jar of baby food, unwrapping just before she finishes.

Day 4

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Wrap your dog’s entire leg in Press ‘n Seal and hand-feed her meal.

– Once she finishes, wrap her leg with dry gauze over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the baby food, unwrapping everything just before she finishes.

Day 5

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– With the measuring tape, do all kinds of measuring of your dog’s leg (length-wise, circumference, lots of messing around) before wrapping her or feeding anything.
 
– Hand-feed her a couple of handfuls of her ration.

– Wrap her leg in Press ‘n Seal and hand-feed the rest of her meal.

– Pause briefly.

– Wrap the gauze over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the baby food, unwrapping everything just before she finishes.

Day 6

– Get all the gear at one of your dog’s mealtimes and go to the casting area.

– Do some measuring, then feed her a couple of handfuls.

– Wrap her leg in Press ‘n Seal and feed her a couple more handfuls.

– Pause briefly.

– Wet the gauze, then wrap that over the Press ‘n Seal.

– Feed her the rest of her ration followed by the baby food, unwrapping before she finishes.

For the actual casting, have really good treats and a few jars of baby food on hand and be generous with these throughout the procedure.

Orthopedic Equipment for Dogs that Increase Joint Support and Overall Mobility

In our March 2011 issue, we introduced you to a very small sampling of some of the neat “assistive equipment” options that are available to help our canine companions who have limited mobility or other physical issues. We received such a great response that we thought we’d share with you a few more finds that can help make life easier for you and your dog, particularly if he or she is aging or has orthopedic or neurologic issues.

Hind-End Harness

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Remember: the products mentioned here are only the tip of the iceberg. There are numerous companies making innovative assistive products; what we’re hoping to do here is to get you thinking about some of the possibilities!

No Slip Solutions

My husband and I purchased our home, in large part, to suit our dogs. What could be better than a one-level home with hard wood floors and no stairs to navigate? The single-level layout worked well as our dogs aged, but in their senior eyes, the hardwood floors have become a skating rink.

I dreaded the thought of buying carpet runners. They’d need a rug pad so they wouldn’t slip; they’d have to be vacuumed regularly; carpet is a breeding ground for fleas (especially here in the hot, humid south); and often, runners come with a dreadful chemical smell that takes a while to dissipate.

I was thrilled when I discovered a relatively inexpensive product called CarpetSaver, a lightweight, cotton blend, foam-backed terry runner that’s machine washable. I ordered a remnant roll and was able to cut the fabric easily with household scissors to varying lengths. Although this product will never make the cover of House Beautiful and is only available in four basic colors, I’ve been pleased with the quality, durability, and wash-ability of the product, along with the ease with which my elderly Bouvier, Jolie, now navigates through the house without missing a beat. I’ve gotten a return on my investment many times over! Suggested retail price is $20 and up; remnants and overstock sometimes available.

In some areas of our house, I’ve put down yoga mats for improved traction. They’re easy to keep clean; just pick up and shake out or vacuum. I recently learned that yoga matting is available in bulk rolls. A trainer friend lined the cargo area of her Honda Element with roll matting, making her English Mastiff very happy. The matting offers a great, grippy surface to walk on, but I’ve also found that guest dogs in our home gravitate to the mats as a comfy place to nap. Although I purchased Jolie’s yoga mats at a discount store for about $10 each, I recently found a 24″ x 104″ x ¼” roll of matting online for $125.

Front Limb Care

The signature product of DogLeggs Therapeutic & Rehabilitative Products is their Standard Adjustable DogLeggs. This product offers coverage, padding, and protection for elbow joints, and is regularly used to treat and prevent elbow hygromas – fluid-filled swellings at the point of one or both elbows, which can arise as the result of trauma or even from a dog lying for long periods of time on hard surfaces. In that case, over time, the point of the elbow bone traumatizes the soft tissue, causing inflammation and leading to the formation of a fluid-filled sac. 

Carpet­­Saver Runners

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Standard Adjustable DogLeggs can also be used to help with a variety of other conditions, including elbow arthritis, decubital ulcers, pressure sores, and calluses, and a full length model for more coverage is available as well.

Consumers can measure their dogs themselves and order this product direct from the company; however, company spokesman John-Henry Gross believes that the best results are achieved when the client works with her dog’s veterinarian to measure and order the leggings. It’s also important to involve your veterinarian to be sure that what you’re looking at on your dog is a hygroma. Suggested retail: $108 (standard); $128 (full).

Hind-End Support

In our March issue, we talked about full body harnesses. In some cases, such as when a dog requires only hind-end assistance (i.e., post surgery), a full body harness might not be necessary. For those times, the Walkabout Back Harness (as seen on the facing page) is a great option. It’s made of a neoprene fabric with polypropylene webbing straps. It’s sturdy; has long, substantial handle straps (to save our backs!); and fits both male and female dogs.

To put the harness on, lay it flat on the floor and put the dog’s hind legs through two holes; the harness then wraps up over the dog’s back, closing with Velcro and buckles. I’ve had the chance to see the harness in action while being used to get a large dog (post-surgery, with two fractured hips) up and outside to eliminate, and it worked very well. While homemade works in some situations, I’ve seen firsthand that a product like this beats the old towel-under-the-belly, hands down. Suggested retail: $35 – $78.

Also in March, we mentioned one canine wheelchair, suggested by a veterinarian who specializes in canine rehab, as an example of the canine wheelchair-type products available. There are a number of other canine wheelchair makers, and each has products with unique features, benefits, and drawbacks. If your dog would benefit from a mobility cart, check out the offerings from the following companies to see what might work best for your dog, situation, and budget:

Doggon’ Wheels
888-7-DOGGON; doggon.com

Eddie’s Wheels
(888) 211-2700; eddieswheels.com

K9 Carts
(800) 578-6960; K9-carts.com

Healing Heat

Heat can offer our pets’ aching joints relief from pain, especially in cold, damp weather. The HipHug is a 100 percent cotton, rice-filled pad that you can heat in the microwave. What’s unique about the HipHug is that its cute bone shape is actually utilitarian: the way the pad is cut, it envelops and shapes to the dog’s hips and lower back nicely. The rice creates moist heat, easing joint pain and relaxing muscles.

Standard Adjustable DogLeggs

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As someone who spent this past winter getting up early to heat a pad to warm 14-year-old Jolie’s back and knees before her morning walk, I can attest that heat used properly can make a big difference in loosening up painful joints. Suggested retail: $13 – $25.
 
DogLeggs offers a similar product, the Buddy Bag, for hot or cold therapy.

How to Introduce New Equipment

Trainer and behaviorist Jean Donaldson posted a short video on YouTube of her Chow Chow, Buffy, gleefully accepting and wearing a stifle brace. In December 2010, then nine-year-old Buffy was diagnosed with a CCL (cranial cruciate ligament) tear. Donaldson chose to manage the injury conservatively, rather than subject Buffy to surgery, and opted for a stifle (knee) brace from OrthoPets. The brace helps prevent re-injury while the dog builds scar tissue and muscle around the injured knee.

In the video, Buffy was pretty happy to have Jean put on her brace. Donaldson spent time desensitizing Buffy to the brace before asking her to wear it. In fact, she first prepared Buffy for the casting procedure performed by Buffy’s veterinarian Anne Reed, DVM, which was required for fabrication of the brace. Dr. Reed was so impressed with Buffy’s cooperation during the casting that she asked Donaldson to write up a protocol for her to share with other brace clients. Donaldson graciously agreed to share it with us as well (see below).

After the casting, Donaldson prepared Buffy for the brace itself. Here’s how, in her words: “Show brace, then big pay-off (chicken). Touch leg with brace, then big pay-off. Hold brace against leg, then big pay-off. Add duration, paying off throughout. Add duration, pay off at end. Put brace on briefly, paying throughout. Put brace on, pay with intervals between installments. Put brace on, short walkies. Longer walkies.” She says it took only a few days for Buffy to willingly accept the brace but admits that the training she did for the casting likely sped up the process.

Buffy was rested for about eight weeks, then exposed to a gradual increase in length of walks and activity level, given supplements, and kept lean. Donaldson reports, “Buffy wears the brace for any activity where she might attempt a ‘sudden sprint.’  OrthoPets’ recommendation is for a dog to wear it for a maximum of eight hours a day.  Buffy’s not a bouncing-off-the-walls kind of dog, so indoors she doesn’t wear it.” The plan is to gradually reduce the time Buffy wears the brace. See the video, “I’m Too Sexy for My Brace,” at tinyurl.com/buffybrace.

Lisa Rodier shares her home in Georgia with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.

5 Steps to Preventing Heat Stroke in Dogs

Dogs can suffer from heat stress in just a few short minutes, even when the temperature doesn’t seem that hot to us. How will you know if a dog is at risk for overheating? There is not an exact answer to this question; it depends on the dog and the situation.

Preventing Heat Stroke
If you’re lucky enough to have access to a safe, dog-friendly body of water, move your daily dog walk to that location during heat waves.

All dogs are at risk in extreme temperatures. But a dog who is accustomed to 90° weather may have less risk on a very hot day than a Seattle pup vacationing in the Arizona desert. Also, the air temperature is only one consideration; humidity, sun exposure (or lack of shade), amount of time in the heat, level of exertion, and availability of water can all affect how well a dog tolerates heat. Be alert for signs of heat distress, such as excessive panting or drooling, reddened gums, listlessness, or rapid heartbeat.

Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to help prevent your dog from getting so overheated that he suffers heat stress or heatstroke.

1. Avoid exposing your dog unduly to extraordinary heat.

Again, this is a relative recommendation; a dog who is acclimated to a fairly hot environment can tolerate more than a dog who is not. But when temperatures rise beyond what are average, give your dog greater respite from the heat. Leave him home! And if left at home, make sure he’s got ample methods for staying cool: shade; lots of fresh, cool water to drink; and perhaps the cooling breeze of a fan. If you must take him out, try to keep him out of the sun – and make sure he has constant access to cool drinking water.

2. Modify your dog’s exercise routine in hot weather.

Walk him after dark or before dawn. Find a pond, creek, or beach where dogs are safe and welcome, and incorporate swimming or water play into his usual game of fetch. During severe heat waves, he can forego any sort of rigorous exercise for a few days.

3. Get him wet.

Hose him down, put him in the tub, mist him with a spray bottle, or wipe his coat with a sopping wet towel. In a dry climate, the evaporation will help lower his body temperature; in a humid environment, you’ll need to get some extra air flowing over him for a wet coat to help him cool down. Ceiling fans are terrific; battery-powered fans that attach to your dog’s crate or x-pen work well, too.

4. Provide ample water.

Make sure your dog has lots of fresh, cool water – preferably from more than one source. Dogs always seem to drink more when they have options.

If you’re out with the dog, offer water frequently. Stop in a shady spot, and really encourage him to relax and drink. Some dogs get distracted by their environment and pass up the chance to drink in favor of gawking. Make it clear that you’re not going on until they take at least one quick drink.

5. Use an evaporative cooling vest,  coat, bandanna, or mat.

There is a wealth of products for keeping dogs cool on the market, available from many pet specialty store or online pet supply catalogs. Look for garments that are wetted and gradually release water through evaporation, such as the HyperKewl Evaporative Cooling Dog Coat by TechNiche International, winner of the “best new dog product” at SuperZoo 2010.  But in a pinch, even a plain cotton T-shirt or bandanna, wetted and worn by the dog, can help provide some evaporative cooling.

Preaching to the Choir

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I had this thought on Tuesday, July 5, and I’ve been thinking about it on and off since then: Is any progress being made at all in the world of dog ownership?

This was prompted by my brief custody of two small stray dogs, the ones I found trotting down my street the morning after fireworks were going off all over town.

Assisting Stray Dogs

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Fortunately, Otto was with me in the yard as I watered our roses and azaleas, and the dogs came in my gate to greet him; I was able to close the gate behind them. They wouldn’t come to me at first; once they realized the gate was closed, they trotted up and down the fence line a few times, to confirm they were, in fact, trapped in my yard. They also raised their legs on every bush and fence post, allowing me to see that they were both males. Both dogs appeared to be American Eskimo Dog- or Pomeranian-mixes.

After 10 minutes or so of exploring the yard, the smaller one approached me, wagging his tail. I was able to feel underneath his thick coat to ascertain that while he was wearing a collar, there were no tags on it. His coat was matted and dirty. Then the larger dog came up to me. He, too, was matted and dirty. He did not have a collar on.

I called my local shelter, and the receptionist took my address and said she’d send an animal control officer to pick them up. When he arrived, he scanned both dogs; no microchips. He also determined that both males were intact. He was kind enough to call me later to tell me that he had found their owner; the dogs live about 10 blocks away, and had supposedly escaped the night before during the fireworks.  I say “supposedly,” because I saw the same two dogs trot by my house a few days later. When I went out my front door, they bolted in the direction of their home.

I just keep thinking: No ID, intact, matted, and free to wander (and be hit by a car).

And I think about WDJ’s readers: involved, concerned, educated owners, who surely have ID on their reasonably groomed dogs, who are, if not neutered, are at least minimally trained, well-socialized, and safely enclosed. In your letters and comments, I see ample evidence that there are many owners who are aware of the need to both vaccinate their dogs and limit those vaccinations; to train and socialize their dogs; and to provide more than the minimum of care.

I’ve been wondering: How can I help to reduce the “class” differences between dogs like the ones wandering my neighborhood and the ones owned by WDJ readers?

I’d love to hear about things you do to help educate, guide, and inspire owners to improve their dog care practices.   

(Puppy Basics #3) Puppy Basics – Keys to Bringing a Puppy Into Your Home

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The key to bringing a puppy into your home is to think things through well before the big day.

Most people spend months preparing for the arrival of a new baby. They’re just as likely, however, to bring a baby dog home on a whim, without any preparation at all. Small wonder they find themselves playing catch-up for weeks, months, years, or even “getting rid of” the dog as they struggle to recover from the mistakes made in the pup’s formative months. The wise puppy-owner-to-be puts much thought into pre-puppy preparation.

Rules and routines are especially important if there’s more than one human in the house, to encourage consistency, an important element of successful puppy-raising. When your pup joins your family, she’ll experiment with different behaviors to try to figure out how the world works, and how to make good stuff happen – a dog’s main mission in life. The more consistent everyone is, the quicker she’ll figure it all out.

Your rules and routines will reflect your dog-raising and -training philosophies. Here are some issues for your family to discuss and agree on:

Where will your puppy sleep?

Will she be allowed on the furniture?

Where will she be during the day?

What games will she be allowed to play?

Who will feed her; when, and what?

Who will train her and how?

How will you correct her for making mistakes?

For more details and advice on pre-puppy preparation, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Puppy Basics.

Deja Vu

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Why, oh why, does Consumer Reports even “go there”? I have the utmost respect for the magazine’s reviews of vacuums and DVRs and such, but pet food is beyond their ken. Yet they persist. In “Tame Your Pet Costs” in the August issue, its authors advise readers not to “pay a premium for ‘premium’ dog food.” They put the quotes on premium dog food, to indicate their apparent opinion that there is no such thing. Sigh.

Nancy Kerns

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A quote: “Premium or otherwise, any food you see on supermarket and pet-store shelves that’s labeled ‘complete & balanced,’ ‘total nutrition,’ or ‘100 percent nutritious’ should meet the minimum standards for nutrition set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. That indicates that it’s adequate for the vast majority of healthy pets.” The short article goes on to indicate that the best buy the authors found was Ol’ Roy at Walmart, “for just 34 cents per pound.”

Can you think of anything nutritious you can buy for 34 cents per pound? No; just sawdust comes to mind. Sprinkle on some fat from a vat of road kill and a vitamin/mineral mix of dubious origin and call it a day!

I just don’t know how anyone could regard a dog (carnivore) food whose ingredients list starts with  (as one example) turkey, chicken, and chicken meal as “just as good” as one that starts with corn, “meat and bone meal,” and soybean meal – even if the protein, fat, and vitamin levels in the two foods were equivalent.

“Bargain” prices are always an indication of cheap, low-quality ingredients. I will agree with Consumer Reports, however, that high prices may not necessarily correlate with high-quality ingredients; there certainly are plenty of high-priced foods competing in the “premium” niche whose ingredients don’t necessarily explain the price of the product.  So many factors go into pricing that you have to look past the price to the ingredients to determine the quality of a food. 

Allow me to rave positively about something else. Recently, two of our favorite behaviorists/authors, Patricia McConnell, PhD, and Karen London, PhD, published a great little book, Love Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home. They wanted to address a little-known problem having to do with dog adoptions: the fact that up to a third of dogs who get adopted in some areas end up being returned to the shelter. The goal of the book is to help guide folks with newly adopted dogs through the first few days, weeks, and months post-adoption – to avoid the most common mistakes that people make, and set up the dog and family for success.

Best of all, to make sure the book is affordable to cash-strapped animal welfare organizations, everyone involved with the book’s production agreed to discount the compensation for their work, so the book could be sold far below a typical retail price. Order it today from Dogwise for just $9.95; dogwise.com or (800) 776-2665.

Study Reveals Most Common Diseases in Dogs

Banfield Pet Hospital has issued a report analyzing the most common diseases in dogs and cats. The “State of Pet Health 2011 Report” collected data from 2.1 million dogs seen at Banfield’s 770 veterinary hospitals in 2010.

Flea Infestation Increases

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Some of the more interesting findings included increases in diabetes, dental disease, ear infections, and flea infestations since 2006. Hookworms and whipworms in dogs also increased during that time period.

Incidence of diabetes mellitus in dogs rose 32 percent since 2006, a startling finding. The number of dogs affected, however, is still low, with 17.5 cases per 10,000 dogs seen. Diabetes is associated with being overweight or obese, one of the top five diagnoses in adult dogs in 2010, which might help explain the increase. Diabetes is also more common in small breeds, whose popularity has risen considerably in the last 10 years, with Chihuahuas and Shih Tzus leading the way.

Heartworm disease is one of the three top health risks for pets in the Southern states, with the highest rate of infection found in Mississippi, where 6.7 percent of dogs tested were found to be infected. Heartworm disease was diagnosed in dogs in all 43 states in which Banfield has hospitals, and the American Heartworm Society reports dogs testing positive in all 50 states. Incidence of heartworm disease was similar in 2010 to 2006.

Dental disease is the most common health issue in dogs, affecting about three-quarters of all dogs over 3 years of age. Many dogs aged 1 to 3 years are affected as well. Dental disease can affect the heart and kidneys, and causes pain that is not readily apparent. There has been a 12.3 percent increase in dental disease in dogs since 2006. While tartar was the most common finding, periodontal disease grade 1 (of 4) made the top 10 list of diagnoses in all dogs, and grades 1 and 2 were both in the top 10 for small dogs. Older dogs have greater risk of developing more severe forms of dental disease. The top breeds most likely to develop periodontal disease include the Toy Poodle, Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Pomeranian, and Shetland Sheepdog. The best way to prevent dental disease in dogs is with daily brushing.

Otitis externa (infection or inflammation of the outer ear canal) was the second most common diagnosis in dogs, with a 9.4 percent increase since 2006. In 2010, 15.8 percent of dogs seen in Banfield hospitals were diagnosed with otitis externa. Recurrent ear infections are usually linked to allergies. Breeds that are predisposed to otitis externa include the Basset Hound, Beagle, Bulldog (American and English), Cocker Spaniel (American and English), Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Lhasa Apso, Poodle (all sizes), Pug, Shar-Pei, and English Springer Spaniel.

Incidence of flea infestation increased 16 percent in dogs since 2006. Tick infestations were also more prevalent, with a 6 percent rate of increase over the past five years. In addition, the number of dogs diagnosed with Lyme disease more than doubled since 2006. Fleas increase during spring and summer months before peaking in October, while ticks were most commonly found in May and June. Fleas are most prevalent in Southeastern states and along the West Coast.

Hookworm prevalence in dogs increased 30 percent and whipworms 8 percent over the last five years. Hookworms are most common in Southeastern states, while whipworms are more prevalent in Midwestern and Eastern states. Tapeworms were the most common parasite found in dogs.

Knowing which diseases are most common can help pet owners be proactive in protecting their pets through preventative care, such as keeping dogs lean; toothbrushing; using heartworm, flea, and tick preventatives as needed; and having a veterinary examination at least once a year.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

Banfield Pet Hospital State of Pet Health 2011 Report
tinyurl.com/banfield

Intelligent Refusal

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dog with small kitten
Sometimes, if Otto was just resting quietly, the kittens would seem to forget he was a living thing, and run toward or even start to climb him. He's expressing his distress with a little tongue-flick, but, knowing he's not supposed to make any sudden moves around the kittens, he stays in one place. ©Nancy Kerns

Here’s a memory that just came up: A blog post from July 2011 – 12 years ago!

I’ve been having a nice dialogue with a reader who objected to my promotion of the word “cue” over “command.” He made some good points – but something Otto did the other day gave me ammunition for one more point in support of why I prefer “cue.”

Copying their mama, the last two of my foster kittens (now MY kittens) have developed a classic behavioral response to Otto (and every dog, to be fair to kind, patient Otto): they puff up, spit, growl, and flatten their ears every time they notice him in the room. Frankly, they are often so occupied with play that sometimes this “noticing” happens when they actually run into his sleeping body, but whatever.  I keep praising and rewarding Otto for his calm, gentle behavior around them, and for turning instantly away from them any time he starts looking too interested in joining their chasing games.

The other day, as a reward, I initiated a game with Otto and his current favorite toy: bunny-shaped stuffed animal with a squeaker inside. (It’s from Premier Pet Products, and it’s ingenious; the belly of the bunny contains a rubber cage that enables the squeaker to roll about, making its position unpredictable. Otto LOVES mouthing the bunny in search of the ever-elusive squeaker.) I said, “Where’s your toy?” This is the cue I use to ask Otto to go get a toy. Otto looked thoughtful about this for a moment (as he often does), and then I saw the light bulb go on (as it almost always does) and his expression brightened before he bounded out of my office to go find the bunny. I could see it; it was in the middle of the living room floor.  But just as he arrived at the toy, one of the kittens launched from out from under the couch, right onto the bunny (the kittens like it, too).

Okay, a dilemma. Otto was asked to do something; he also knows he’s not supposed to chase or harm the kittens. If he “obeyed” my “command” to get the toy, he’d surely get in trouble for being confrontational with the kitten. He had to use some judgment – and I want to develop and nurture that judgment. In the real world, I really don’t want a robot, who follows orders no matter what.

I can only imagine that service dogs are trained similarly. They must do what their owners ask, but sometimes, their owners ask them to do something they know is dangerous, like walk in front of a car that their blind and deaf owner doesn’t know is coming too fast. They have to understand that in some cases, a refusal is the right thing to do. In this case, the word “cue” really is more appropriate than “command.” I’d love to hear from service dog trainers about how they cultivate this trait, without creating a dog who “refuses” when it suits his needs, rather than his handler’s.

In this case, I’m proud that Otto knew to “disobey” me. He quickly stepped back from the spitting kitten, and looked at me, tail wagging, for further instructions. “Yes!” I applauded him, jumping up from my chair and skipping into the kitchen to get him something extra yummy from the fridge. “Good dog!” And when the coast was clear of kittens, he got another reward. “Otto! Where’s your toy?”

(Modifying Aggressive Behavior #4) How to Calm an Agressive Dog

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There are a host of other things you can do to lower general stress in your dogs’ environment.

If you’ve ever had a massage, you know how calming touch can be. Dogs aren’t that different from us; you can calm and soothe your dog with physical touch, both through canine massage and TTouch. Combine your calming touch sessions with aromatherapy, by using a therapeutic-quality lavender essential oil in an electric nebulizing diffuser in the room while you massage your dog. Then you can build your dog’s “ahhh” association with the lavender scent to help him be calm in more stressful environments, by putting a few drops of essential oil on a bandana that you tie around his neck or on the bedding in his crate.

For more details and advice on modifying dog aggression, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, The Aggressive Dog.

A Good Fence Would Save a Stitch in Time, or Some Other Mixed Metaphor

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I share a fence, across the back of my lot, with a family who has three dogs. The dogs are out in the yard about 23 hours a day. They bark a lot, especially when people with dogs walk by their home. Their yard is littered with things the dogs have torn up, like an old mattress that started out on the back porch.

This evening, I let Otto into the backyard to go pee. I heard the usual volley of barking from the back fence as Otto strolled around my yard. I was actually turning to go back in my own house to get a glass of water when I heard an odd noise. I turned just in time to see an entire plank of the back (wooden) fence plunk to the ground in my yard, and the biggest of the three dogs, a black male pit-mix-type, charge into my yard toward Otto.

Well, I went berserk. In stocking feet (and a skirt, no less) I also charged into the yard, running down the back porch steps while yelling and grabbing things to throw at the dog. Initially, he glanced toward me but kept running toward Otto – who, by the way, alarmed by all my yelling and strange behavior, started running away from me. I don’t think he even saw the strange dog until it was right behind him, he was so afraid of my antics. I threw a trash can, a broom, and a pair of shoes, and was also able to turn on a hose and start spraying water toward the dog – just as the two smaller dogs also came through the fence. I kept yelling “GET OUT! NO! GET HOME!” and spraying all the dogs with water. Faced with this unexpected onslaught, the neighbor’s three dogs – thank God – turned and ran back through the fence. I ran behind them, spaying the hose to make them move far enough from the fallen fence plank that I felt confident in bending down to pick it up and jam it back up against the fence.

I then ran inside and grabbed a hammer and nails and ran back outside and nailed the plank back on. Only then did I look for Otto.

Canine Injury

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I found Otto quivering in the house . . . and spots of blood on the kitchen floor. I don’t know what happened, it all happened so fast. But he had a nasty laceration on his back leg. Did he get bitten? Or run into something in the yard in his panic to escape from his suddenly insane owner? I have no idea. Just a vet bill, a dog with a shaved butt and a few stitches (staples, actually), and a list of materials for a new fence.

Maybe I overreacted, but I’ve heard enough of the dogs frustrated barking (and then redirecting their frustration onto each other in short but intense-sounding fights) that I wasn’t going to take the chance that Otto get attacked by all three – or that I get attacked while trying to save him. All I know is that I certainly won’t take that fence for granted anymore. Ugh.

(Positive Training Basics #4) – Positive Training Basics: Common Dog Training Mistakes

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Dependency on luring is a common dog training mistake. Luring is using a treat to show your dog what you want him to do. To lure a “down,” for example, hold the treat in front of your dog’s nose while he’s sitting, then lower it a tiny bit toward the floor. As his nose follows the tidbit, “mark” the behavior that you want with the click! of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”, and feed him the treat.

Continue gradually moving the treat toward the floor, clicking and treating along the way, until he’s lying down. If at any time he stands up, say “Oops!” and have him sit again, then resume luring the down, moving the treat toward the floor in smaller increments this time.

Luring to teach behaviors is just fine. Forgetting to “fade” (gradually remove) the lure is not. If you don’t fade the lure early in the training process, you and your dog can become dependent on the presence of treats to get the behavior to happen. While I almost always have treats in my pockets or close by, I don’t want to have to rely on treats to get my dog to offer behaviors when I ask for them.

For more details and advice on positive training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Positive Training Basics.

(Crate Training #4) Crate Training Made Easy

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A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

To get your dog to go into the crate, start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click! the clicker (or say “Yes!” if you are using a verbal marker).

For more details and advice on crate training, please refer to Crate Training Made Easy.

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