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Causes of Canine Conjunctivitis and Treatment Options

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Something is wrong with your dog’s eye. It’s bright red or oozing pus or itching like crazy. Could it be pink eye? This common childhood condition, also known as red eye or conjunctivitis, affects people, cats, and our canine companions.

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Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the conjunctiva, the tissue covering the eye and inner surface of the eyelid. If caused by bacteria or viruses, it can be infectious. Noninfectious conjunctivitis can be caused by allergic reactions, irritants, or trauma injuries.

While contagious conjunctivitis is common among cats and schoolchildren, most canine cases involve seasonal allergies or pollen exposure, injuries like cuts or scratches, or the presence of a small foreign object – anything from a grain of sand to a sliver of bark, piece of grass, tiny leaf, or small insect. In those cases, secondary bacterial infections may develop.

According to veterinary ophthalmologist David T. Ramsey, DVM, “Primary conjunctivitis attributable to infectious pathogens is exceedingly rare in dogs. In contrast to canine conjunctivitis, feline conjunctivitis is almost always primary and attributable to infectious pathogens (viral, chlamydial, or bacterial). Bacterial conjunctivitis in dogs almost always occurs secondary to an underlying disease that alters normal resident conjunctival flora and favors bacterial proliferation.”

Getting a Correct Diagnosis
The symptoms to watch for are eye redness, discharge, swelling, squinting, excessive blinking, sensitivity to light, pawing the eyes, or rubbing the face and eyes on floors, the ground, or other surfaces.

If you think your dog might have conjunctivitis, see your veterinarian. An eye exam can rule out corneal diseases, disorders of the tear ducts or tear production, eyelid abnormalities, or parasites of the conjunctiva or eyelids. It is important to get an accurate diagnosis because what works for simple conjunctivitis will not treat these more serious underlying problems.

Your veterinarian may perform certain tests, such as fluorescein staining to detect corneal ulcers or superficial abrasions, the Schirmer tear test to determine whether your dog is producing sufficient tears, and a thorough exam of the external eyelids, third eyelid, and conjunctiva.

If needed, additional tests can check for specific bacteria, the distemper virus, glaucoma, and other illnesses.

Treatment may include thorough rinsing or irrigation to remove foreign objects or irritating substances, medication to correct insufficient tear production or eyelid infections, antibacterial eye ointments for secondary bacterial infections, or anti-inflammatory eye medications to help reduce swelling.

Types of conjunctivis include:

-Serous conjunctivitis, which is a mild (not serious) condition, causes membranes to look pink and swollen, with a clear, watery discharge. This condition is usually caused by irritants such as dust, allergens, and cold or windy weather.

-Allergic conjunctivitis, a form of serous conjunctivitis, can cause itching. Household chemicals, lawn and garden sprays, and smoke from cigarettes or wood-burning stoves or fireplaces are potential causes of serous conjunctivitis. While foreign objects tend to affect a single eye, environmental factors that cause allergic conjunctivitis often affect both eyes.

-Keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or dry eye (also known as KCS), contributes to irritation, inflammation, and infection. The conjunctiva is usually red and inflamed, and symptoms may include squinting; a thick, ropey, mucous-like discharge; and corneal scarring.

-Follicular conjunctivitis, also known as mucoid conjunctivitis, results when small mucous glands (follicles) react to an infection or eye irritant and form a rough, cobblestone surface that irritates the eye. The resulting discharge resembles mucus, and if the problem persists, the rough surface can be a chronic irritant. Puppies and young dogs are typical follicular conjunctivitis patients, and the illness usually subsides with age.

-Purulent conjunctivitis is usually associated with Streptococcus and Staphylococcus bacteria. Thick secretions of pus and mucus may form a crust on the eyelids.

-Neonatal conjunctivitis affects the eyelids of infant puppies before or after their eyelids separate, which usually happens at 10 to 14 days of age. During or shortly after birth, bacteria may move behind the eyelid. Prompt veterinary treatment is important because untreated neonatal conjunctivitis can result in corneal damage and blindness.

-Parasitic conjunctivitis is rare in North America, but in some cases bot fly larvae or, in the Western United States, the parasitic worm or nematode Thelazia californiensis can inhabit the conjunctival sac between eye and eyelid. Eyeworms, as they are commonly called, are transmitted to dogs by insects. Both adult and larval eyeworms can produce symptoms ranging from mild tearing or discharge to conjunctivitis, keratitis (inflammation of the cornea), or corneal ulcers.

Other causes
In addition to injurious conditions like corneal ulcers and keratitis, blepharitis (inflammation of the eyelids) and skin diseases that affect the eyelids can all contribute to conjunctivitis. 

Some upper respiratory diseases, including kennel cough, involve viruses and bacteria that can produce conjunctivitis in one or both eyes along with coughing, sneezing, lethargy, decreased appetite, fever, and nasal discharge.

In some dogs, conjunctivitis is caused by anatomical irregularities, such as loose or drooping eyelids that cannot close completely, or eyelids that roll inward, or lashes that grow in the wrong direction, any of which can cause lashes to rub against the cornea.

Treatment
If you suspect that your dog has something trapped in her eye, don’t waste time. Flush the eye with a sterile saline solution or, if that isn’t possible or effective, go to your vet right away. An irritating foreign object can create serious eye problems if left untreated, especially if the dog is doing her best to dislodge it.

Underlying problems that result in conjunctivitis should always be treated. For example, artificial tears and lubricants help dogs with keraconjunctivitis sicca, or dry eye, along with topical antibiotics to resolve bacterial infections or concurrent corneal ulcers.

Abnormal eyelids or eyelashes can be treated surgically.

Conjunctivitis accompanying upper respiratory infections is typically treated with topical antibacterial medication and supportive care.

Allergic reactions can be challenging because dogs, like people, can be allergic to all kinds of things. But if your dog is diagnosed with allergic conjunctivitis, it’s a good idea to protect him as much as possible from cigarette or wood smoke, spray-on carpet cleaners, lawn chemicals, and harsh cleaning products. Change furnace and air-conditioner filters frequently, and experiment with air purifiers or humidifiers to see if they help prevent symptoms.

Parasitic conjunctivitis requires the physical removal of eyeworms or larvae, which can be accomplished by flushing the conjunctival sac with sterilized saline or by removing them with a fine forceps or cotton swab while the dog is sedated. Treatment with a parasiticide such as moxidectin is reported to be even more effective than mechanical removal, especially where eyeworms are endemic.

Home First Aid
Sterile saline solutions are widely available, and the same products can be used to rinse foreign objects or irritants from the eyes of both canine and human patients. For general first aid, keep a sterile eye rinse on hand.

Most natural food markets and some pharmacies sell eye washes for pets. For example, Espree Natural Aloe Optisoothe Eye Wash for Dogs & Cats contains purified water, aloe vera, benzalkonium chloride, and sodium chloride; V-Pro Eye Rinse for Dogs contains boric acid, purified water, sodium borate, and sodium chloride; and the human product OcuFresh Eye Wash contains sodium chloride, sodium borate, and boric acid. All of these can be used to flush a dog’s eyes.

If you don’t have one when you need it, you can make a simple saline eye wash with 1 cup distilled water and 1 teaspoon salt, boiled for 5 minutes and then cooled to room temperature. This solution should be freshly made and stored in the refrigerator for no more than a day or two before use.

Willard Water concentrate, described in “Willard Water: A Powerful Anti-oxidant” (WDJ June 2006), has helped many dogs recover from eye injuries and infections. Simply add a small amount of the concentrate (about 1/2 teaspoon concentrate per cup of water) to your saline solution. To be sure the solution is completely clear, strain it through a paper  coffee filter before applying.

It often takes two people to rinse a dog’s eyes, one to hold the head steady and one to keep the dog in position. For best results, tilt the dog’s head to one side so that the rinse flows from one side of the eye to the other.

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Homemade or purchased eye wipes can be used, although they should not be applied directly to the eye, but rather used around it. To make your own, simply saturate cotton balls or a cotton pad and dab around the eye. Solution released from the cotton will rinse the eye.
A sterile spray bottle can also be used as well. Simply spray a fine mist of solution over the eye area. Even if the dog’s eyes are closed, some will enter the eye.

Treating Conjunctivitis at Home
The easiest form of this disease to treat at home is serous conjunctivitis. Infection-fighting ophthalmic gels and rinses, such as Vetericyn products, are sold through veterinary clinics and pet supply stores. Some come with a cone-shaped applicator that helps control delivery.

Herbal eye drops, which can be made at home or purchased at most pet supply or natural food stores, can help in many cases. Pet Alive’s Eye-Heal herbal eye wash contains burdock, greater celandine, meadowsweet, and rosemary. Animals’ Apawthecary Eye & Nose Herbal Drops contain sodium chloride, boric acid, sodium borate, and extracts of certified organic goldenseal, eyebright, and usnea. Halo Cloud Nine Herbal Eye Wash contains eyebright extract, goldenseal extract, boric acid, and sea salt. NHV Ey-Eas eye drops contain chamomile, eyebright, goldenseal, and rosemary in a base of purified water and glycerine.

Several eye-friendly herbs are effective, gentle, and well tolerated by most canine patients. To brew any of these herbs as a tea (called an infusion), add 1 teaspoon dried herb to 1 cup boiling water, cover, and let stand until cool. Add 1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt, if available, or any table salt.

Alternatively, dilute the tea with any over-the-counter saline solution labeled for eye use. You want the result to be slightly salty, like tears.

Add 1/2 teaspoon Willard Water concentrate if available. Strain the mixture through paper coffee filter to remove any plant parts or undissolved salt. Apply with an eye dropper, cotton balls, or spray bottle every two to three hours as needed.

-Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is among the first herbs to consider for minor first aid. A broad array of medicinal compounds in the flowers of the plant, including various essential oils, flavonoids, saponins, triterpene alcohols, and carotenes, combine to help speed cell reproduction and inhibit bacteria and fungi at the site of injury. For minor cuts, insect bites, abrasions, or post-surgical incisions, a calendula wash will bring quick, soothing relief to pain and swelling, while lending antimicrobial properties to the body’s healing effort. Cool calendula tea works well as an eye wash for conjunctivitis, where its mild but predictable astringency combines with bacteria-fighting properties to reduce irritation and infection.

-Chamomile, both the German (Matricaria recutica) and Roman (Chamaemelum nobile) varieties, is considered one of the safest and most versatile herbal pet remedies. Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, chamomile is often recommended as an eye wash ingredient. Follow the tea-brewing instructions above and apply when cool.

-Nettle (Urtica dioica) has so many medicinal properties, it’s considered an all-purpose healing aid. As herbalist Gregory Tilford wrote in “Learning about Nettle” (WDJ, May 2003), “Nettle is one of the first herbs I reach for when a need arises for a soothing, anti-inflammatory eye rinse.”

-Raspberry leaf (Rubus idaeus) is another soothing herb that helps reduce the discomfort caused by conjunctivitis. Best known as a uterine relaxant and whelping aid, red raspberry leaf is an astringent herb containing polypeptides, flavonoids, and tannins. Its tea works well as a first-aid rinse for cuts and abrasions.

-Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis) is a key ingredient in some eye drops because it is both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. This makes it especially appropriate for conjunctivitis that is secondary to bacterial or fungal infections. Goldenseal quickly reduces inflammation and redness. Because the plant part used is the root rather than leaves, goldenseal tea should be brewed as a decoction rather than an infusion. Combine 1 cup water with 1 teaspoon chopped dried root, cover, bring to a boil, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes, then remove from heat with cover in place and let cool to room temperature.

-Oregon grape root (Mahonia aquifolium) fights infection and reduces inflammation, making it another herb appropriate for the treatment of conjunctivitis. Prepare as a decoction, like goldenseal. Because the berberine in this solution can irritate the eyes, dilute this tea with an equal or greater part of chamomile or raspberry leaf tea, some other soothing infusion, or a saline solution.

-Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) tea is a traditional eye wash in parts of France. Its mild astringent and antiseptic qualities make it effective in the treatment of conjunctivitis and inflammation.

Don’t Bother With These Remedies
Although Eyebright (Euphrasia spp.) is widely recommended as an herbal eye treatment, and although it is astringent and has antibacterial properties, there is no scientific evidence showing that eyebright is effective against conjunctivitis or any other eye disease, and Germany’s Commission E (an agency that documents the effectiveness of herbal preparations and approves or disapproves their use) recommends against using it. In addition, eyebright is considered an at-risk herb because of over-harvesting. Most herbalists agree that eyebright can safely be eliminated from herbal eye formulas.

Another widely recommended product that has not been shown to be effective against conjunctivitis is colloidal silver. This solution, in which minute particles of silver are suspended in water, has been marketed for decades as a natural infection-fighter and as a treatment for conjunctivitis. In 2004, the Journal of Wound Care published a study in which three different colloidal silver solutions had no effect on the growth of test organisms. 

Support Therapies
In addition to treatments that address conjunctivitis directly, consider some with a less obvious healing connection.

When Chloe, my eight-year-old Labrador Retriever, developed a bright red left eye with an oozing white discharge, her veterinarian, Tia Nelson, DVM, diagnosed conjunctivitis. Her symptoms developed in December, when many dogs in Montana’s Helena Valley experience seasonal allergy symptoms in response to smoke from wood-burning stoves and fireplaces, and they appeared the day after we went for a very cold, windy hike. Because Dr. Nelson is also a veterinary chiropractor, she adjusted Chloe’s neck and jaw, explaining that eye conditions often respond to alignment corrections.

Acupuncture is another supportive therapy. As Randy Kidd, DVM, wrote in “The Structure of the Eye” (WDJ, September 2004), “Acupuncture has been successfully used to treat many eye conditions. Keratitis, chronic conjunctivitis, and all sorts of eye irritations typically respond favorably to acupuncture, and cataracts or even blindness may respond.”

He explained that an acupuncturist might diagnose conjunctivitis as an example of excess heat of the liver. Acupuncture needles positioned to bring the liver back into balance would then restore the body to a state of harmony.

Various energy healing therapies, such as Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu, are also used to restore balance and health to the body. When Chloe’s symptoms developed, canine massage therapist Adele Delp performed Jin Shin Jyutsu around her eye.

We also applied NHV Ey-Eas eye drops. Chloe’s eye quickly returned to normal.

Freelance writer CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books.

Sam, The Bully Pup: A Success Story

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On his first night of puppy class, Sam was an endearingly woolly bundle of baby Golden Retriever, with no indication that he had a social problem. Golden Retrievers are usually social butterflies, and Sam was a star performer during class for clicks and treats. However, when playtime arrived, his demeanor changed from an attentive pupil (“What can I do to get you to click the clicker?”) to a bully (“I’m tough and you just try to stop me!”).

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Sam’s chosen victim was a Rottweiler – not a breed you’d expect to find wearing an invisible “bite me!” sign. Max was about Sam’s own age and outweighed Sam considerably but was no match for the smaller pup’s intensity. Several seconds after they began frolicking together, Sam suddenly pinned Max to the ground with a ferocious snarl, then released him briefly, just to pin him again.

Needless to say, we intervened quickly in that relationship! Each time his intensity with Max began to escalate he got an immediate, “Oops, time out!” and was removed from play. His patient owners diligently monitored his activity, and by the end of the seven-week class Sam was improving, but still demonstrated unacceptable bullying behavior. After two more six-week class sessions he played well with a stable group of four other dogs, under general supervision, without needing any time-outs.

Sam developed into a perfectly normal, socially appropriate dog, thanks to very early intervention. Now seven years old, he has been known to frequent the City of Hagerstown’s annual Pooch Pool Plunge without incident, engaging with the 100-plus dogs who attend the event, playing off-leash in the municipal pool at summer’s end when the facility closes for the season. At a recent behavior consult for their newly adopted rescue Golden, Sam’s owners confirmed that he continues to play well with others, and is socially appropriate with every dog he meets.

What To Do if Your Dog is a Bullying Victim

So, what should you do if your dog is the victim of a canine bully? Intervene, by all means. Here are some of the signs to look for that tell you that you need to step in and break up the interaction. Your dog:

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-Tries to get away or hides behind you, or behind chairs.

-Offers appeasement behaviors (ears back, squinty eyes, lowered body posture, rolls on her back, urinates) to signal the other dog to back off.

-Snaps at the other dog when his appeasement signals are ignored.

-Doesn’t offer to re-engage if there is a pause in the action.

-Just doesn’t look like he’s enjoying himself.

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If you see any of these signs when your dog is interacting with another, step in and separate the dogs. Give both dogs a time-out to let arousal levels settle. If your dog was enjoying himself for a while but then became overwhelmed, you might try letting them play again. Watch closely. If the other dog starts to become inappropriate again, stop the play before your dog shows signs of discomfort. Give both dogs another time out, and try again.

Over time, the bully may learn that play stops every time he gets too rough, and start to self-inhibit his play. Alternatively, you can ask the bully dog’s owner to redirect her dog’s behavior to a different activity that will keep your dog safe, as we did with Lucy.

If your dog was intensely bullied from the start of the interaction, a serious fight erupted, you can’t redirect the bully dog’s behavior to another activity, or you’re not interested in risking your dog’s safety in the interest of modifying the other dog’s behavior, you’re better off ending the session after the first intervention.

Dogs Talk . . .

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Today’s viral video was of a news anchor who was bitten in the face by a dog on live television. If you own a dog, you probably either saw the video, read an article about the incident, or heard other dog owners discussing it. But dogs bite people every day; why was this incident so riveting?

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Well, for one thing, the dog was on TV because he had been rescued from near death (in an ice-covered pond) only the day prior. There was gripping video footage of the rescue – a handsome young firefighter went into the icy water and hauled the 85-pound dog to safety. The firefighter and the dog’s owner were available and willing to be interviewed about the rescue on the local news show the next morning. That’s all very compelling.

The dog himself was telegenic – a powerful “Argentine Mastiff” with an expressive face. The attractive news anchor was clearly moved by the story of the dog’s rescue, and it appeared that she really loves dogs; she moved from her chair to a spot on the floor right next to the dog, and she repeatedly caressed the dog as she spoke. As she told the story of the dog’s rescue, the camera repeatedly zoomed in on the dog’s large face. He kept panting with his mouth wide open and licking his lips; he seemed to be smiling!

The last thing I wrote: it’s wrong. The dog wasn’t smiling at all. But the news anchor must have thought it looked like a smile, and I’ll bet lots of other people watching the news that morning did, too – that is, just before the lady leaned toward the dog to kiss him, and the dog bit her in the face with one quick snap. The footage was simply shocking.

There is a difference between shock and surprise, though. Educated dog trainers and owners watching the clip weren’t surprised at the bite; they could identify a number of behaviors displayed by the dog that clearly expressed his discomfort. He kept shifting his weight around, and trying to move away from both his owner and the anchor. He panted. He licked his lips. His ears were flattened and back. His lips were pulled back (but not in a smile). He turned his head sharply away and back toward the anchor several times. He also froze a couple of times, for a fraction of a second.

To students of canine body language, these behaviors were the equivalent of the dog saying loudly, “I am kind of freaking out about all this and need some space!” But neither the anchor nor the dog’s owner interpreted the dog’s body language correctly. They didn’t hear so much as a whisper of what the dog was trying to tell them. So he “said” it louder; he snapped. (And the anchor was rushed off to a local hospital for plastic surgery.)

We love our dogs so much that sometimes it’s hard to remember that they are another species! They don’t think like we do, they don’t perceive our shared experiences in the same way that we do, and they can’t communicate the way we do; they can only speak their own language and hope we catch on. We’ve brought them into our homes; the least we can do is try to learn a little of their language (and respect what they say).

Some good resources for canine body-language study: Sarah Kalnajs’ DVD set, “The Language of Dogs,” and Brenda Aloff’s Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide. Both are available from Dogwise.com; (800) 776-2665. We’ve had a number of articles in WDJ on canine body language; the most recent was in the August 2011 issue. It contained lots of information about what a stressed dog looks like. We’ll take this incident as our cue to bring you more articles on the topic, soon.

Hydrotherapy; Emergency Health Exam; Gear of the Year

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Thank you for posting the article on hydrotherapy (“Walking in Water”) in your December 2011 Issue. I am thrilled that water therapy is finally becoming recognized and talked about as a valuable tool in canine health care.

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After years of working with horses in rehabilitation and in water, I opened my first pool 18 years ago in Seattle and began offering services to the dogs in my area. I was surprised to learn that this was such a new concept in the canine world.

In my practice, I have found that the benefits of body work and massage in water while resting can often be just as, if not more important, than the swimming aspects. The warm water allows a three-dimensional access to the body and an educated therapist can help the dog achieve wonderful stretches, deep relaxation, and enhanced circulation. Also, with this nurturing body work and attention to emotional safety first and foremost; I have never met a dog who didn’t grow to love the work we do in the water.

My hope is that this article will inspire others to write in about their experiences with hydrotherapy and will continue to inspire different training opportunities to emerge and evolve.

We love your journal. I’ve kept every copy since its inception and we always have copies out in our reception area for our clients to enjoy.
Cindy Horsfall, lapawspa.com
Sequim, WA
via email

Thanks so much for “Emergency Health Exam” (January 2012). I have subscribed to WDJ for many years, have a bookshelf loaded with dog books, volunteered for two years at a local animal shelter, worked nine years at a dog daycare and boarding facility, lived with three dogs and a cat for many years – yet I did not know to check the gums on one of my dogs when he wasn’t up to par.

He had been to the vet’s just two weeks earlier for pre-dental bloodwork – all was fine. No overt symptoms other than lethargy and that “just off” behavior we all know. I took him back to the vet when he didn’t eat a meal (he was a chow hound). One of the first things the vet did was check his gums. They were so pale she admitted him to ICU immediately. We lost him two days later to autoimmune hemolytic anemia (AIHA).

Had I known the simple technique of checking the gums, he may have been saved. I had also never heard of AIHA, which might be a worthy article in the future; my best friend lost her cat to this disease who had the same symptom – “just off.” I now know about checking the gums and something about AIHA, both via a devastating lesson.
Kathleen M Fitzgerald
Denver, Colorado

We’re so sorry to hear about your loss. Your suggestion of an article on AIHA is a good one. We’ll put it on our “to do” list.

I have been a subscriber to the WDJ for years and value your insights and the thought and research that goes into your articles. You always give me a lot to think about and I thank you for that. I have never responded to an article before, but today I read your recommendation of antlers as a great chew for dogs (“Gear of the Year,” January 2012) and I had to comment. 

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You should have included a warning that antlers have the potential for chipping dogs’ teeth. I am sure if you had talked to any accredited and trained veterinary dentist they would have been appalled that your fine magazine would advocate antlers as a safe treat for dogs.

I have an 11-year-old German Shepard. I have always been super careful about what she eats and so I was excited three years ago when I found antlers at my local pet store for all the reasons you cited in your article. I had never given her any other chews before because I was worried about the chemicals used to make them so I thought I was making a safe and natural choice. My dentist checks my dog’s teeth regularly so I was stunned to find out at my next visit that she had broken the tips off her top front molars on both sides. The only thing different in her diet had been antlers.

Given that these teeth were critical to her eating and that dogs use their mouths for so much more than people, I took her to see Dr. Paul Mitchell, an American Veterinary Dental College-accredited veterinary dental specialist. My worry was trying to save these critical teeth. Dr Mitchell said that antlers are too hard for dogs to chew. Please keep in mind that my dog is a German Shepard. She was eight at the the time, in her prime, and she chipped perfectly healthy teeth on antlers.

I had two choices: Having the chipped teeth pulled so they would not chip further and get infected, or having them capped, which is also risky given that dogs naturally chew and are hard on caps. I elected caps because of how critical these teeth are but it was extremely expensive. I hope that you will advise your readers that antler chewing does carry a substantial risk of chipping teeth and chipped teeth on dogs is not a good thing.
Mary Osmolski
Canton, CT

Mary, you are absolutely correct: We should have mentioned that these are HARD items, and not appropriate for a dog with an aggressive or dedicated style of chewing.

Regarding the practice of flushing dog poop down the toilet (mentioned in the review of Flush Puppies non-plastic poop bags in “Gear of the Year”): We used to have a Shih Tzu and since she was a poop-eater, I decided to quickly pick up her small poop in the backyard, throw it down the toilet, and throw the baggie in the trash. It didn’t take long before we had to have the plumber unstop the toilet; he told me that the problem was that the dog poop was simply too hard to disintegrate and flush down.

I feed my dogs a raw meat diet, so their poop is nice and firm. Perhaps this might work with a dog whose stools are soft or I guess if you have a composting toilet, but I surely won’t do it again! I think that people with standard plumbing need to be aware of this problem.
Laurie Pevnick
via email

We’ve never heard of this problem before. . . Has anyone else had problems with their plumbing as a result of flushing dog poo? 

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The entire staff here at All The Best Pet Care thoroughly enjoys your publication. We carry quite a few of the products featured in the “Gear of the Year” product review. Our stores have many of the Nina Ottosson Interactive Toys, the Bravo! Freeze Dried treats and a large selection of deer, elk, and moose antlers. I know in the article it mentioned these things can be purchased online, but small pet care businesses also carry these great products! We work hard to keep healthy treats and fun, safe toys on our shelves for our customers and always appreciate the reminder for people to check out their local stores too.
Kris Palmer, Assistant Manager
All The Best Pet Care
allthebestpetcare.com

We strongly recommend that people ask their local, independent pet supply stores about products they are interested in. It helps the retailers – who are always looking for fun or useful new products to carry. And the type of well informed, passionate, involved staff typically seen at independent stores can help owners learn more about the products and their appropriate use. Great point; thanks!

I just received the February issue of WDJ and read your editorial protesting the use of “No” (re: specific ingredients) on dry dog food packaging and in advertisements. I agree with you that not all ingredients commonly listed on various products’ “No” lists are bad for all dogs, though my personal feeling is that a food manufacturer is doing more of a service to the potential customer than a disservice to a given ingredient.

For example, having a “No” notice on avocados as an ingredient lets me quickly move on to another brand if I specifically want my dog to have avocados . . . or to quickly zoom in on said brand if I want to exclude avocado exposure for my dog.

Another dog owner may appreciate a “No” notice when it comes to some ingredient to which a family member (other than the dog) may be allergic. Some food allergies can cause problems when a food is simply touched or inhaled (I’m thinking dry food dust becoming airborne at feeding time.)
Christine Holder
Via email

Good points, Christine. I did see some labels that expressed a “No” list in a way that did not imply that the omitted ingredients were bad – just that they were not present (one such example is the first label shown below). But many others blacken the reputation of ingredients that are useful (in moderation) by associating them with ones that are generally accepted as unhealthful.

Correction: We accidently omitted Laughing Dog’s foods from our “2012 Approved Dry Dog Food List.”

We have updated the 2012 Approved Dry Dog Food List and apologize for the error.

Staying on the Trail

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Usually, I can count on my dog, Otto, being one of the best-behaved and best-trained dogs in the pack when I go out for off-leash hikes with friends and their dogs. When we hike solo, I keep the walk lively by frequently asking him to do “trail agility” – jumping over logs, jumping up on boulders, and even running through culverts. I also frequently ask him to perform spontaneous recalls; he can expect to be asked to do one at any moment, and he enjoys the game. His recalls are impeccable. All of this solo training really pays off when we walk with friends and their dogs are all over the place.

However, we recently got completely shown up when hiking with a newer friend, another woman about my age who also volunteers a lot at our local shelter. She has two dogs, a sharp little blue Australian Cattle dog and a large yellow Lab, and she’s somehow managed to train them to perform a behavior I’m really jealous of.

It’s one of the several times a year that ticks are really bad here in Northern California, and Otto is often covered with them after one of our off-leash jaunts, as he loves to run ahead of us and criss-cross the trail, sniffing for birds and woods animals. I usually go over him quickly before putting him in the car after a walk, and then do a very thorough exam once we get home, looking for the tiny ticks and combing burs out of his fur.

My friend has another solution. She’s taught her dogs to stay on the trail even when they are off-leash and bounding ahead. I don’t know how she did it, but at the moment, I’m green with envy.

I’m comforting myself with the knowledge that Otto has a BLAST running back and forth across the trail, and leaping up and down embankments trailside . . . but I’m thinking on our next hike, I’m going to have to ask my friend exactly how she taught her dogs to refrain from stepping off the trail.

Have any of your friends trained their dogs to do something you are jealous of?

Super Bowl Ads Staring Canine Actors

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Last week on our Facebook page we posted links for Volkswagen’s two Super Bowl commercials featuring talented canine actors. Dogs are almost always popular in Super Bowl ads – but there are potential hazards to the advertiser if the dogs or their depictions are not handled with sensitivity. Last night, shoe makers Skechers premiered a commercial that featured Greyhound racing – not something most dog lovers want to see, even if it includes a comical and darling French Bulldog wearing tiny Skechers who wins the race, moonwalking across the finish line. Comedy or not, media reports say Skechers is taking heat about the racing Greyhounds.

From our view, the star of the night was Bud Light, for featuring a former shelter dog in a funny ad (the dog, ostensibly named Weego, fetches beer for anyone at a party who commands “Here, Weego!” – or happens to say “Here we go!”) – but also, for going one step further and promoting the practice of adopting rescue/shelter dogs. A link flashed at the end of the ad urges viewers to go to facebook.com/budlight, where information about the rescued canine actor is listed, and people are encouraged to “like” the page with this as the reward: for each “like,” Bud Light will donate $1 (up to $250,000) to Tony La Russa’s Animal Rescue Foundation. Now that’s how you capture a dog lover’s attention and affection.

Skechers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=MlYCBJSYWBQ

Bud Light

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyFWSys3TJU

What Do You Do With Jealous Pets?

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A year ago, the only pets in my house were Otto and my ancient cat, Shadow; she passed away last summer, in the middle of an invasion of new pets. A niece’s dog, a Chihuahua we call Tito has come to live with us indefinitely, and we kept the last two kittens of a litter we rescued from abandonment by a former neighbor. So, now there are two adolescent cats and two dogs fighting for petting and lap time.

It started out slowly. It used to be that Otto was the only one who wanted much physical affection. Shadow never liked being picked up, and was one of those cats who liked being near people more than being touched by them. Tito was very withdrawn and handshy when he first came here; he was uncomfortable being picked up and ducked away from petting – but now he craves petting and likes curling up in my lap as I watch TV or read. The kittens used to be more interested in playing than being petted. But as they’ve matured, they now demand face rubs and time in my lap, too.

The effect all of this competition for my affection on Otto? He now responds avidly to my calls to ANY animal in the house, or even just the tone of voice I might be using to address an animal. If I say, “Tito, sit!” — Otto comes running and plants himself between Tito and me, as if to say, “I know how to sit on cue!”  If I call “Kittens!” — Otto comes running. And because he’s much bigger than the rest (who are all about 10 pounds) he stomps right up and puts his big head in my lap, wagging his tail in everyone else’s faces. It’s gotten extremely difficult to spend even a moment of time snuggling with any other animal without Otto asking for his share of attention and affection right then.

I try to give him plenty of “just us” time – and strive to frequently call his name and reinforce his quick response with lots of attention. I also try to spend some of my time petting the cats when they are inside and Otto is outside, or vice versa. And I try to not reinforce him with attention when he pushes in for attention that I’m trying to give another pet; I try to just ignore him at that moment, and later, give him individual attention. But frankly, I also find myself saying, “Otto, get back! Otto, off!” more than I should – like when I’m just trying to bend down to pick up a cat or snap the leash onto Tito’s collar.

I’m pretty sure it’s just a phase, and it will pass. But I’m curious: What do you do with a jealous pet?

(Crate Training #5) Crate Training Made Easy

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A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click!, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate.

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Crate Training Made Easy.

(Good Greetings Make Good Neighbors #5) – Why Dogs Jump to Greet

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There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. During the training process, your dog is certain jump. If he does:

Apologize/take responsibility. It’s your job to prevent your dog from jumping on people, even when they say they don’t mind. If your management efforts fail and your dog does jump up, apologize.

If in the process of jumping up he puts muddy pawprints on a business suit, snags a pair of nylons, knocks down a small child, or otherwise does some kind of property damage – even if the damage is minor – be responsible and make amends: pay for the cleaning bill, purchase a new pair of nylons, buy the child an ice cream cone, or do whatever you need to do to repair the damage. Then redouble your training and management efforts.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Proper Greeting: Stop Your Dog from Barking and Jumping when the Doorbell Rings.

Rain Dogs

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I can’t complain in any way about the rain. We’ve had a freakishly dry winter so far; the last rain we had, until just a few days ago, was around Thanksgiving. But it’s pouring now and has been, on and off for a few days. Which impacts the dogs’ daily plans and our exercise schedules.

My dogs are used to spending anywhere from two to five or so hours outside during the day (ever since Tito the Chihuahua moved in with us, and Tito sleeps indoors, Otto has decided that sleeping indoors every night is for him, too). They patrol for stray cats and UPS drivers, they investigate all alarms sounded by the neighbor dogs and our three hens, they keep a sharp eye peeled for their friend Max, who walks by with his owners once or twice a day and visits through the fence, they doze in the sun (if there is any), and they accompany my husband on his travels from our back door to the door to his office, about 40 feet away. Back and forth, for coffee, bathroom breaks, whatever. On some days, they accompany me two blocks away to my new office, and then patrol the yard at that address for the even more abundant stray cats. Big fun.

At this point, with two well-behaved, well-adjusted adult dogs, I usually take them for two or three off-leash walks a week. The rest of the week, they make do with their outdoor time, the short walk to my office, and whatever spontaneous “chase the ball” or tug of war sessions may break out during my breaks from the computer.

The rain cancels ALL that fun; they want to be indoors when it’s wet, and I can’t blame them. But the boredom brought on by all the cancelled events means there is an even higher expectation and need for a really good off-leash run — which means I’m going to have to get wet. And they are going to get wet. And my car (or at least, the seat cover on the back seat) is going to get wet. And we’re all going to smell like wet dogs. And I’m going to have to wash an extra load of laundry every other day, just for the towels.

They don’t mind taking a walk or run in the rain, fortunately. (I hate the anticipation of being wet and cold; once I’m dressed for the rain and actually out there on a trail with them, I don’t mind it a bit.) I’ve known other dogs who have to be forced to walk in the rain, who trail along sulkily and are reluctant to go potty outdoors in bad weather.

If I don’t manage to take them for a good long run in the rain, they get drawn into way more squabbles with the adolescent cats, there are far more things that require alarm barking and investigation than usual, there are far more balls dropped on our feet and noses nudged under our elbows . . . no one gets to work hard and solidly until the dogs get their rainy run. Which means I need to go suit up now!

How does the winter weather affect your dog’s life? What accommodations do you make for rain or snow?

How does your dog react to the rain or snow that this season drops on our heads? Some dogs thrive on it while others refuse to go outside. We would love to hear about your pup!

Download The Full February 2012 Issue PDF

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