Allergen: A substance that causes an allergic reaction. Anything can be an allergen to a hypersensitive individual, even water. The term has meaning only in relation to an individual who is hypersensitive to that substance.
Allergen-specific immunotherapy: Also known as “allergy shots.” An injection that is custom-made for each patient based on results of intradermal skin tests. The injections contain saline solution and tiny amounts of (commercially produced) extracts from the substances to which the patient is hypersensitive. The injections are given once or twice weekly for four to six months (or longer); the amount of the allergens that the injections contain is slowly increased until a “maintenance dose” is achieved. This therapy is extremely effective, though time-consuming and (over time) expensive.
Allergic contact dermatitis: A hypersensitivity reaction to skin contact with an environmental substance.
Alopecia: Hair loss.
Antibody: Also known as immunoglobulin. A complex Y-shaped protein used by the immune system to identify and neutralize foreign substances. Antibodies are produced by white blood cells.
Antigen: A molecule that induces the formation of antibodies.
Atopy: Also known as “canine atopic dermatitis.” A hereditary and chronic allergic skin disease. Dogs may be allergic to inhaled substances or substances their skin has comes in contact with. Redness and hair loss from scratching is often worst around the eyes, muzzle, ears, and on the feet.
Food hypersensitivity: Also known as “food allergy.” An uncommon, nonseasonal hypersensitivity caused by a dietary substance; an abnormal immunologic response to an ingested substance. Food hypersensitivity is not usually associated with a change in diet. Most dogs who develop the condition have eaten the same food for more than two years. A dog can develop a food allergy to any food, but the most commonly incriminated foods in canine food hypersensitivity include beef, dairy products, lamb, poultry products, wheat, soy, corn, rice, and eggs. (Note that these are also some of the most common ingredients in commercial pet food.)
Intradermal (skin) tests: A test in which tiny amounts of various environmental allergens (such as local tree, grass, and flower pollens) are injected under the dog’s skin, and the skin is observed for a reaction. Redness and swelling indicates a substance to which the dog is allergic. Needed in order to customize a dog’s immunotherapeutic injections (“allergy shots”).
In vitro diagnostic tests: Also known as blood or serologic tests for antigen-induced antibodies, ELISA, or RAST tests. Not very reliable indicators of allergy because of the large numbers of false positive and false negative results.
Pruritus: Itchiness; an unpleasant sensation that causes the desire to scratch.
Pyoderma: A bacterial infection of the skin. Generally treated with antibiotics, but the underlying cause of the infection needs to be addressed, too, so the condition doesn’t recur. The type of antibiotic prescribed will depend on whether the pyoderma originates from deep within the skin or closer to the surface (superficial).
Pyogenic: Bacterial infection that produces pus (dead white blood cells).
There are a few different types of tests available that purport to identify the allergens to which a dog is hypersensitive; some of them are helpful, and some are a waste of time and money. Since all of them are commonly referred to as “allergy tests,” few people know which ones are credible, and which ones are not. The following is a brief description of the types of tests available for allergy diagnosis.
– Blood (serologic) tests for antigen-induced antibodies – Two different methods (RAST and ELISA) are used for the most common commercial test products used by veterinarians, and the tests may be referred to by those names or by the name of the company whose test kit uses the methodology (such as Heska, Greer, or VARL). These tests are designed to detect antibodies that a dog has produced in response to specific environmental antigens. By identifying the antibodies, the tests were supposed to be able to deliver clues about the environmental substances that the dog’s immune system is treating as an “invader.
Historically, the tests have been unreliable, with lots of false positive and false negative results, though the technology has improved over the years.
If the test results indicate “55 different things your dog is supposedly allergic to,” says Dr. Donna Spector, owner of SpectorDVM Consulting, in Deerfield, Illinois, it’s not particularly helpful, “and not particularly believable, when the results indicate your dog is allergic to something that he doesn’t even have significant exposure to.” However, she adds, if there is a really strong positive result, “not just one or two points above what they say is normal, but really strong results, you have something you can ask the owner about. ‘Does your pet have exposure to oak trees?’ If the owner says, ‘Oh yeah, they’re all over our property, we’re loaded with oak trees!’ then you’ve got something you can work with.” Or rather, something you can target with immunotherapy (allergy shots).
Dr. Spector has one suggestion for those considering paying for one of these tests: “It’s best to test right after the dog has gone through his worst allergy season, because his antibody levels will be the highest at that time, and you can get the best picture of what really bothers him the most. Sometimes a vet will run a blood test randomly, say, in the middle of winter, or ‘in preparation for the upcoming spring,’ and it is not as helpful.”
– Skin (intradermal) tests for environmental allergens –
In an intradermal test, tiny amounts of a number of suspected or likely local allergens are injected just under the dog’s skin. The location is shaved (the better to observe the reaction of the skin and underlying tissue) and marked (with a pen), so the response to each allergen can be recorded. Swelling and/or redness indicates the dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot.
Identification of the substances to which a dog is allergic is helpful for two reasons. First, if the allergens that are problematic for a dog are known, the dog’s owner can try to prevent (as much as possible) the dog’s exposure to them. Second, testing identifies the allergens to be chosen for inclusion in customized allergy shots (also known as “immunotherapeutic injections”).
Most veterinary dermatologists feel these tests are much more reliable than blood tests for antibodies. It should be noted that the testing is more time-consuming and expensive, not to mention stressful for the dog, who must be observed very closely, several times, by a stranger!
– Tests for food allergies – Both blood and skin tests for food allergies exist, but it’s difficult to find anyone (besides the companies that produce the tests) who feels the results are worth the paper they are printed on. It would be exciting and useful if it worked, but so far, the tests are a work in progress, with only an estimated 30 percent accuracy rate. Why would you bother – especially when you can conduct a food elimination trial that will deliver much more accurate information about your dog’s food allergies.
A valid food elimination trial for the purpose of confirming food hypersensitivity consists of three phases: elimination, challenge, and provocation.
In the first (elimination) phase, the dog is fed a diet consisting of a single protein source and a single carbohydrate source. Both of these ingredients should be completely “novel” to the dog – foods he’s never eaten before. (Thirty years ago, lamb and rice was the go-to food elimination diet, because those ingredients were not yet widely available in commercial pet foods. Because the diet was novel, few dogs had developed allergies to those ingredients, and “lamb and rice” gained an unearned reputation as a “hypoallergenic” diet. Many dog food companies rushed lamb- and rice-based diets to market, and the early results were good, since the formulation was novel. However, the ingredients are common in dog food formulations today; neither is likely to be completely novel to today’s hypersensitive dog.)
Today’s pet owners are fortunate in having novel proteins such as kangaroo, beaver, pheasant, and rabbit readily available in frozen and canned form. Novel grains such as quinoa, barley, or amaranth can be easily found in health food or gourmet food stores.
During this phase, the dog must be prevented from eating anything else: no leftovers, bones, chews, treats, or even supplements. If his itching has not reduced by at least 50 percent after a period of 8 to 12 weeks with no other foods crossing his lips, you can tentatively conclude that either A) his allergies are not related to his diet; or B) that you have, by some bad luck, used a food to which he is also allergic. You can try another trial, using another novel protein and another novel grain. If his itching does not reduce at that time, you can very safely conclude that his hypersensitivity is not related to his diet, but to some other factors.
If, however, his itching reduces drastically, go on to the second phase: challenge. Put your dog back on his former diet. If he is truly hypersensitive to ingredients in his former diet, his itching and other allergic signs should return within 4 hours to 7 days. Diagnosis: confirmed.
In the third (provocation) phase, the dog is again fed the novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet until his allergy signs have subsided. Then, a single ingredient is added to the diet for a week while the dog is closely observed. The return of pruritus in the week following the addition of any ingredient implicates that ingredient as a factor in the dog’s food hypersensitivity.
This is not a fun project; it takes commitment, extraordinary observation, and total control of your dog’s environment for weeks on end. However, identification of the ingredients to which your dog is allergic will enable you to simply prevent him from eating those ingredients, and stave off both the uncomfortable symptoms of allergy and the potentially hazardous treatments sometimes required to make him more comfortable.
Over the past few months, I’ve read more than 30 books on homemade diets for dogs. Many offered recipes that were dangerously incomplete; a smaller number provided acceptable guidelines but were confusing, unduly restrictive, overly complicated, or had other issues that made me recommend them only with reservations. A few were good enough to recommend without reservation.
This review is about the cream of the crop: three relatively new books (or new editions of an older book) whose authors have taken the time to analyze their recipes to ensure that they meet the latest nutritional guidelines established by the National Research Council (NRC). All three books offer boneless recipes as well as some that include raw meaty bones (RMBs), giving you the option of choosing either style of feeding, or a combination of the two, depending on what works best for both you and your dogs.
These three books take an approach that’s very different from the books that focus on just raw meaty bone diets, which I reviewed in December (“Reliable Guides for Raw Diets”). Those books provided dietary guidelines rather than recipes, relying on common sense and mimicking the evolutionary diet of the wolf rather than nutritional analyses to provide diets that are complete and balanced. I believe such an approach is valid and follow it myself, but the guidelines are often misinterpreted, leading to diets that are missing critical ingredients or overloaded with others, and thus nutritionally unbalanced and incomplete.
The books reviewed also differ from the boneless diet books I reviewed in the January issue (“No Bones About It”): none of those books provided recipes that had been analyzed to ensure that they met NRC guidelines. The best of those books gave good guidelines for creating a complete homemade diet, but each required careful attention to the text to ensure that nothing was left out. People who just follow the recipes are likely to end up feeding an incomplete diet.
The three books included in this review are quite specific about what you should feed and what supplements you need to add. They offer peace of mind for those concerned that the diet they’re feeding may not meet all of their dog’s nutritional needs. They provide a reliable alternative for those who are not able to feed, for whatever reason, the wide variety of foods needed to provide a complete and balanced diet without supplementation. They offer help to people whose dogs are experiencing health problems that could be related to their diet. And for those of us who just want to understand more about where essential nutrients come from in the diets that we feed, and what might be missing, the information they provide is fascinating.
Two of these books provide recipes that meet requirements for all life stages, while the third can be used for adult maintenance only. It’s important to pay attention to this factor when you’re looking for books to help you feed your puppy or pregnant or nursing female.
I can’t recommend these books highly enough, not only for those interested in starting their dogs on a homemade diet, but also for people who already feed one. Reading through them has made me look more carefully at the diet I feed my own dog and the dietary guidelines that I give others, particularly regarding supplements. When I’m done with the book reviews, I plan to write about the changes I’m making based on what I’ve learned from these books.
A new approach
Two books published fairly recently include recipes for both boneless and raw meaty bones (RMB) meals. These two books have similarities, as the authors have worked together in the past and relied on much of the same research. Both are particularly appropriate for those concerned that their homemade diets meet NRC guidelines, as all recipes have been designed and analyzed to ensure that they do.
These are the only homemade diet books that address the issue of balanced fats, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Modifying fats may be beneficial for dogs with skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. Both books stress feeding lean meats, which they recommend feeding raw, but light cooking is acceptable for boneless meat. Both also advise using bone meal, or other supplements that combine calcium and phosphorus such as MCHC or dicalcium phosphate, rather than plain calcium to balance the boneless recipes. The extra phosphorus is needed to meet requirements for puppies, as the recipes are designed for all life stages.
Both books omit dairy products and grains (except for one recipe with a small amount of oat bran in Brown’s book), and limit the amount of starchy vegetables. This can be beneficial for some dogs, particularly those prone to weight gain or inflammation from health issues such as allergies and arthritis. Carbohydrates, however, reduce the cost of a homemade diet. Those with large dogs who do not feed RMBs (which are usually less expensive than muscle meats) may find these diets cost-prohibitive. Very active dogs and females used for breeding can also benefit from more carbohydrates in the diet.
The winners are:
1.Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats is the perfect book for those who want simple, clear recipes that meet NRC and AAFCO requirements for both puppies and adult dogs. I loved the 2009 edition that I originally read, but I’ve also had a chance to preview the 3rd edition and it’s even better. The basic recipes are the same, but the new edition provides many more details, including nutritional analyses of all recipes. The authors still recommend feeding all of the foods in their original recipes, but the new edition offers options for omitting certain foods, telling you what additional supplements need to be provided in those cases.
2. For those who really want to understand the whys and wherefores of homemade diets, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet is ideal. Author Steve Brown delves into the ancestral diet of the dog and compares it to the latest NRC guidelines. Brown is the creator of Steve’s Real Food for Dogs (he no longer owns the company) and See Spot Live Longer Homemade Dinner Mixes. Step by step, he investigates the nutrients supplied by different foods, and how to go about combining those foods to achieve balanced meals that meet NRC guidelines without the use of synthetic supplements (he adds vitamin E and also includes bone meal in recipes that don’t include bone). Particular attention is paid to ensuring that fats are properly balanced, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3.
3. Monica Segal’s book, K9 Kitchen, offers guidelines and sample recipes for diets based on raw meaty bones, cooked diets, and combinations of the two. Segal’s moderate approach encourages you to pick the style of feeding that you’re most comfortable with and that works for your dog. Sample weekly recipes for all three styles of feeding are included for dogs of various weights and activity levels.
Mary Straus investigates canine health and nutrition as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
A barking dog is a valid reason for a neighbor to complain. Defusing the situation is the best response.
The natural thing to do when a neighbor complains about dog barking is to get defensive. “My dog? Causing a problem? How dare you?!”
Don’t go there. Defensiveness exacerbates hostilities, escalates tension, and encourages your neighbor to make a mountain out of what you perceive to be a molehill. Remember, it’s all about perception, and your neighbor’s perception is his reality. Instead of being defensive, try these things:
1. Listen intently to your neighbor’s complaint.
Unless one of you plans to move, defusing the situation beats all-out war. Set defensiveness aside, and listen to what your neighbor says. Assume there’s some nugget of truth to his complaint. You need to find it, so you can figure out what to do with it. He says your dog barks all the time, underneath his bedroom window, and wakes him up. That may be an exaggeration, but chances are your dog is barking some of the time, especially if you leave her out in the yard, or if she has free backyard access through a doggie-door.
2. Empathize and apologize for your dog barking.
Without admitting guilt, empathize with your complainer. “It must be frustrating to have to listen to barking dogs when you’re trying to sleep.” Be sincere. Tell him you’re sorry he’s being disturbed by barking. Reassure him that you don’t want your dog to be a nuisance, and you want to help find a solution to his concerns. Ask him to bear with you while you work on the problem. Bake him chocolate chip cookies.
3. Investigate your dog’s nuisance behavior.
Ask questions that won’t make your neighbor defensive. “Is there a time when it’s most annoying?” “Are there other dogs that are barking too?” “Other than giving up my dog, what would make you happy?” Set up a video camera or voice-activated tape recorder to document your dog’s activities when you aren’t home. Alternatively, take a day off and watch your own house from a distance, to see what goes on that might make your dog bark. Check the neighborhood to see if there are other dogs whose barking might be blamed on your dog. Ask other neighbors if they hear your dog, and if so, when and how much.
4. Respect all community dog laws.
Make sure your dog is currently licensed, and obey all local animal control laws. Maybe your neighbor is complaining because your dog runs loose and he feels threatened (even though you know your dog is a pussycat), or because you don’t clean up when you take her for walks. Those are legitimate grounds for complaint (as is excessive nuisance barking) even if your dog is a pussycat. You don’t want animal control to find you in violation of anything. Obey leash laws and scoop laws, and respect your neighbor’s discomfort with your dog – don’t let her off-leash even if you’re just walking out to your car. If she runs over to happily greet him, you’ll fuel the fires.
5. Take action to modify your dog’s behavior, and your own behavior.
Make changes to accommodate your neighbor and protect your dog. If his complaint is early-morning noise and she’s barking when you let her out at 6:00 am while you shower, alter your routine. Get up earlier and go out with her. Let her eliminate, then play with her. Keep her quietly occupied rather than leaving her to find her own entertainment. If it’s random throughout-the-day backyard barking while you’re away, bring her in and close the dog door. She doesn’t have to be outside all day. If things get ugly, leaving her out unattended exposes her to great risk from an irate neighbor. If necessary, pay someone to let her out for a noon potty break. If the complaint is about barking even when you are home, behavior modification is in order. (See “Modifying Your Dog’s Barking Behavior“.) If it’s something other than barking, determine how you can modify the situation to mitigate the problem. Some examples:
-Your dog charges the fence. Your neighbor fears for his children’s safety. Make the fence solid, or put up an inner fence so there’s an “airlock” between dog and kids. See, “Solve Fence Aggression with a Better Designed Dog Fence,” for more info on fencing.
-Your dog came over and attacked his dog. You think your dog was just playing, but whatever. Vow that your dog is never off her leash in your neighborhood. Even just walking to your car.
Keep your neighbor informed of your efforts to address his concerns. Document your actions in a journal in case you do have to face animal control. Ask your neighbor to let you know if he sees improvement – and document that. Save receipts for anything you buy to modify your dog’s environment. If you see your neighbor deliberately antagonizing your dog, document that with a video camera. Keep your dog safe. Be considerate. Keep baking chocolate chip cookies.
Over the past few months, I’ve read more than 30 books on homemade diets for dogs. Many offered recipes that were dangerously incomplete; a smaller number provided acceptable guidelines but were confusing, unduly restrictive, overly complicated, or had other issues that made me recommend them only with reservations. A few were good enough to recommend without reservation.
This review is about the cream of the crop: three relatively new books (one is a new edition of an older book) whose authors have taken the time to analyze their recipes to ensure that they meet the latest nutritional guidelines established by the National Research Council (NRC). All three books offer boneless recipes as well as some that include raw meaty bones (RMBs), giving you the option of choosing either style of feeding, or a combination of the two, depending on what works best for both you and your dogs.
These three books take an approach that’s very different from the books that focus on just raw meaty bone diets, which I reviewed in December (“Reliable Guides for Raw Diets”). Those books provided dietary guidelines rather than recipes, relying on common sense and mimicking the evolutionary diet of the wolf rather than nutritional analyses to provide diets that are complete and balanced. I believe such an approach is valid and follow it myself, but the guidelines are often misinterpreted, leading to diets that are missing critical ingredients or overloaded with others, and thus nutritionally unbalanced and incomplete.
The books reviewed below also differ from the boneless diet books I reviewed in the January issue (“No Bones About It”): none of those books provided recipes that had been analyzed to ensure that they met NRC guidelines. The best of those books gave good guidelines for creating a complete homemade diet, but each required careful attention to the text to ensure that nothing was left out. People who just follow the recipes are likely to end up feeding an incomplete diet.
The three books included in this review are quite specific about what you should feed and what supplements you need to add. They offer peace of mind for those concerned that the diet they’re feeding may not meet all of their dog’s nutritional needs. They provide a reliable alternative for those who are not able to feed, for whatever reason, the wide variety of foods needed to provide a complete and balanced diet without supplementation. They offer help to people whose dogs are experiencing health problems that could be related to their diet. And for those of us who just want to understand more about where essential nutrients come from in the diets that we feed, and what might be missing, the information they provide is fascinating.
Two of these books provide recipes that meet requirements for all life stages, while the third can be used for adult maintenance only. It’s important to pay attention to this factor when you’re looking for books to help you feed your puppy or pregnant or nursing female.
I can’t recommend these books highly enough, not only for those interested in starting their dogs on a homemade diet, but also for people who already feed one. Reading through them has made me look more carefully at the diet I feed my own dog and the dietary guidelines that I give others, particularly regarding supplements. When I’m done with the book reviews, I plan to write about the changes I’m making based on what I’ve learned from these books.
A New Approach
Two books published fairly recently include recipes for both boneless and raw meaty bones (RMB) meals. These two books have similarities, as the authors have worked together in the past and relied on much of the same research. Both are particularly appropriate for those concerned that their homemade diets meet NRC guidelines, as all recipes have been designed and analyzed to ensure that they do.
These are the only homemade diet books that address the issue of balanced fats, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Modifying fats may be beneficial for dogs with skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. Both books stress feeding lean meats, which they recommend feeding raw, but light cooking is acceptable for boneless meat. Both also advise using bone meal, or other supplements that combine calcium and phosphorus such as MCHC or dicalcium phosphate, rather than plain calcium to balance the boneless recipes. The extra phosphorus is needed to meet requirements for puppies, as the recipes are designed for all life stages.
Both books omit dairy products and grains (except for one recipe with a small amount of oat bran in Brown’s book), and limit the amount of starchy vegetables. This can be beneficial for some dogs, particularly those prone to weight gain or inflammation from health issues such as allergies and arthritis. Carbohydrates, however, reduce the cost of a homemade diet. Those with large dogs who do not feed RMBs (which are usually less expensive than muscle meats) may find these diets cost-prohibitive. Very active dogs and females used for breeding can also benefit from more carbohydrates in the diet.
Simple Yet Complete
Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats is the perfect book for those who want simple, clear recipes that meet NRC and AAFCO requirements for both puppies and adult dogs. I loved the 2009 edition that I originally read, but I’ve also had a chance to preview the 3rd edition and it’s even better. The basic recipes are the same, but the new edition provides many more details, including nutritional analyses of all recipes. The authors still recommend feeding all of the foods in their original recipes, but the new edition offers options for omitting certain foods, telling you what additional supplements need to be provided in those cases.
Boneless recipes for beef, chicken, and turkey are included in both editions. The 2009 edition also has recipes for egg and sardine meals, with instructions that these can be spread out over a week rather than fed all at once. The new edition provides further details on how to integrate eggs and sardines into your weekly meal plan rather than feeding them separately. Along with the original recipes, the new edition also offers simplified versions that omit hearts and gizzards from the poultry recipes and allow you to use chicken liver with the turkey recipe, since it’s easier to find than turkey liver.
Recipes for meals that include chicken and turkey RMBs are provided as well. These recipes also include boneless meat and organs.
All recipes are 75 percent meat and organs, and 25 percent vegetables and fruits. Following the suggested rotation, the meat portion of the diet is about half poultry with the other half mostly beef, plus substantial quantities of eggs and sardines. In addition to muscle meat, some recipes also use liver and heart. No grains or dairy products are included in the diet. Two versions of each recipe are provided for making small or large batches, designed to feed a medium-sized dog for either one day or a week to 10 days.
In the 2009 edition, each meal includes its own veggie and fruit puree, while the new edition offers guidelines and three suggested recipes for putting together your own mixtures. There are separate sections for dogs and cats in the new edition, rather than combining the guidelines.
All recipes include a vitamin/mineral mix, essential fatty acids, and a “bone replacement supplement” such as bone meal for meals that don’t include RMBs. The new edition provides a range of calcium to give, since puppies require more calcium than adult dogs do (the 2009 edition just gives the higher amount that can be used for either puppies or adults). Detailed instructions are provided for putting together your own supplement mixture; additional supplementation options will be provided in the new edition, and the authors hope to offer a custom-made vitamin and mineral supplement designed to complement their recipes soon.
In the 2009 edition, krill oil is added to all meals, with additional flax oil in poultry meals and hemp oil in beef meals, to properly balance the fats. The new edition offers fish oil alternatives to krill oil, and has cut back on the need to add flax and hemp oils unless you are not able to feed both beef and poultry.
Clear guidelines are given for how much to feed adult dogs and puppies, and how to make the switch from commercial to homemade. Several chapters discuss specific types of foods and additives, including suggestions for substitutions in the recipes. Other topics covered include preparation, equipment, and storage; commercial treats; and commercial frozen foods. The new edition has added chapters on “Optimizing your pet’s diet” and “Side roads, pitfalls, and problems.”
While the supplements may seem daunting at first, these recipes are easy to follow once you have your supplies in place. I particularly like the homemade vitamin/mineral mix, which is easier to use than measuring out individual supplements each day, and helps ensure that all nutritional requirements are met.
In-Depth
For those who really want to understand the whys and wherefores of homemade diets, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet is ideal. Author Steve Brown delves into the ancestral diet of the dog and compares it to the latest NRC guidelines. Brown is the creator of Steve’s Real Food for Dogs (he no longer owns the company) and See Spot Live Longer Homemade Dinner Mixes. Step by step, he investigates the nutrients supplied by different foods, and how to go about combining those foods to achieve balanced meals that meet NRC guidelines without the use of synthetic supplements (he adds vitamin E and also includes bone meal in recipes that don’t include bone). Particular attention is paid to ensuring that fats are properly balanced, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3.
Brown provides one recipe for boneless beef, one for poultry that includes RMBs (chicken necks, whole or ground), and one that combines both. Other ingredients in the recipes include heart, liver, vegetables, fruits, sardines, eggs, oat bran, and oysters. Supplements include bone meal, hempseed oil, salt, kelp, chia or flaxseeds, vitamin E, and coconut oil.
Brown suggests rotating the recipes, using various ruminant meats (beef, lamb, bison, venison) for the first recipe, and different poultry meats (chicken, turkey, duck, pheasant) for the second. Substitutions for other ingredients are offered as well. Two variations of the combined recipe are offered for puppies and adult dogs; the others can be used for all life stages. Detailed feeding guidelines are provided for each recipe. Four additional low-fat recipes are also included in the appendices.
Brown does not include substitutions for the RMBs in his chicken and combination recipes. Since some people are reluctant to feed whole RMBs and may not have access to a grinder or pre-ground products, I asked him if it might be possible to feed these recipes without the chicken necks. He responded that they can be replaced with the same amount of boneless chicken thighs or breast with skin and fat removed, plus 1 ounce of human-grade bonemeal or comparable calcium/phosphorus supplement that provides about 8,000 milligrams of calcium (the next edition of his book will include this information).
For those looking for a quick and easy way to improve their dog’s nutrition and health without having to feed a homemade diet, Brown also offers what he calls an “ABC day,” meals to feed one day a week to dogs who otherwise eat commercial foods. These meals do not meet NRC guidelines, but are instead designed to complement and improve the diets of dogs fed dry food, canned food, or frozen raw foods. Two recipes are provided: one for dogs fed traditional high-carb dry food, and the other for dogs fed high-protein, high-fat dry, canned, or frozen raw food. Both recipes use beef hearts, sardines, eggs, vegetables, and fruits.
Additional chapters provide information on food storage; the effect on the body of protein, fat, and carbohydrates; and how to calculate the percentage of calories that come from each. This book is more complex than many people want, though you can certainly use the recipes without following all the details about why each ingredient is used and exactly which nutrients it provides. Those of us who want to learn more about canine nutrition will find this book a real eye-opener. I refer to my copy frequently and find the information invaluable.
Raw or Cooked
Monica Segal’s book, K9 Kitchen, offers guidelines and sample recipes for diets based on raw meaty bones, cooked diets, and combinations of the two. Segal’s moderate approach encourages you to pick the style of feeding that you’re most comfortable with and that works for your dog. Sample weekly recipes for all three styles of feeding are included for dogs of various weights and activity levels.
Segal’s recipes use a variety of foods and supplements. Recommended foods include red meat, poultry, fish, organs, eggs, vegetables, fruits, and grains. Not discussed in the text but included in some of the recipes are dairy and legumes. Recommended RMBs include chicken necks, backs, wings, and carcasses; turkey necks and thighs; whole rabbit; and lamb rib.
Most weekly recipes contain between 7 and 14 ingredients, plus supplements. All recipes use kelp, zinc, and vitamin E; most use vitamin B compound and wild salmon oil; many use magnesium and manganese; and a few include cod liver oil, safflower oil, flaxseed oil, copper, multi-mineral complex, salt, and NoSalt. Calcium sources include calcium carbonate, ground eggshells, bone meal, and dicalcium phosphate.
This completely revamped 2nd edition of K9 Kitchen improves on the original in many ways. Gone are the frequent warnings about excess vitamin A and most of the overly precise recipe measurements. Recipe amounts are given in ounces rather than a mixture of ounces and grams. More sample recipes are provided, and all are weekly diet plans rather than daily recipes. Grams of protein, fat, and carbs are given rather than percentage of calories from each. On average, diets are higher in protein and lower in carbs.
Segal’s book contains a great deal of useful information, especially regarding dogs with diet-related health problems. It is a wonderful resource for those whose dogs have issues they suspect may be related to diet, including allergies, digestive upset, skin problems, and more. A chapter on stool problems and another on a variety of other health issues can help determine possible causes and dietary modifications to try.
My biggest concern with this book is that it makes things overly complicated for people with healthy dogs. Segal became interested in homemade diets thanks to her dog Zoey, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel with a multitude of serious dietary issues. I suspect Segal’s impulse to control all aspects of Zoey’s diet resulted in her being overly concerned about details that are not an issue for healthy dogs (just as a parent with a chronically ill child might worry more about that child’s diet).
Segal makes many recommendations that I feel are unnecessary if your dog is healthy or has health issues unrelated to diet. For example, she says you must input any modifications to her recipes into a spreadsheet to ensure they meet NRC guidelines. NRC-recommended amounts for minerals must be matched exactly. She advises asking manufacturers for independent laboratory analyses of all supplements.
My feeling is that if this isn’t something you would do for yourself or your family, there’s no need to do it for your healthy dog. Substitutions of similar foods could be made without the need to create a spreadsheet, as long as the dog does not react negatively to the changes. NRC recommended amounts don’t need to be matched exactly any more than our own diets must be made to match recommended daily allowances of vitamins and minerals.
It should also be acceptable to substitute comparable calcium sources. Dicalcium phosphate and bone meal are similar. Ground eggshells are primarily calcium carbonate.
There’s no need to be quite as exact as these recipes specify. Measurements to the quarter of an ounce over a week’s time are unnecessarily precise. Recipes for dogs weighing 52 to 53 pounds can be used for dogs that weigh 50 or 55 pounds. Vitamin B amounts can be increased, if that makes it easier to give daily. Round supplement amounts as needed for convenience; you needn’t worry about giving exactly 56, 105, or 595 mg of magnesium, for example, just give 50, 100, or 600 mg.
Pay attention to the section “Before You Use a Diet Plan” when using these recipes. Wild salmon oil capsules in the recipes are 500 mg, so you will need to give half as many if using the more common 1,000 mg gelcaps. Eggshells must be ground to powder, not just crushed. The amount of calcium in bone meal varies considerably between products; adjust amounts accordingly if the bone meal you use has different amounts of calcium than the 667 mg per teaspoon used in these recipes.
Mary Straus investigates canine health and nutrition as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
The January issue of Whole Dog Journal featured “Say My Name,” an article by Pat Miller that explained the importance of teaching your dog to recognize and respond to his or her name. In a sidebar to that article, Pat also discussed the issue of naming (or renaming) your dog. And she announced a little contest for our readers, asking you to share the story of how you selected your dog’s name and why. Pat said she would select some winners and the “top three” would win a signed copy of her newest book, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.
Apparently, dog names are very important to our readers, too. We received more than 250 contest entries, via the U.S. mail and email, as well as through comments on the WDJ website (whole-dog-journal.com) and the WDJ Facebook page. (All of the Facebook and WDJ website entries can still be viewed online.) When we read them, we laughed, we cried, we felt like these stories ought to be a book! But picking a winner was difficult – kind of like adopting just three dogs out of a huge shelter full of terrific canine companions.
There was nothing scientific about Pat’s selection process; she simply chose the ones that touched her the most, with an admitted bias toward shelter and rescue dogs. Below are Pat’s three winners and three runners-up. Thanks to everyone who shared their funny, sweet, and memorable dog-naming stories.
“HOPE”
Kate Durket, Sutherlin, OR
Here is the story of my “do over” dog.
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In 2004, after losing my beloved girl, Grace, I was adamant about finding a dog who needed a new chance. After many weeks of looking I was contacted by my vet, who told me about a six-month-old Shepherd-mix who had been severely beaten and left abandoned.
When I went to the shelter to see her I noticed that “Linda” (as she was then known) was being bypassed by all the people looking for dogs that day. When I finally stood in front of her kennel it was easy to see why. She was a mass of bruises and lacerations, and the only fur she had was on her head. I gently knelt down and without hesitation she came up to me and licked my hand. In that moment Hope was reborn. She joined her “sister” (my Cocker-mix, Faith) and has been a wonderful member of my family for the past six-plus years. And last year on Christmas Eve my third girl, Joyeux Noel was born. My three girls, Faith, Hope, and Joy are ambassadors of love in my little town.
“SCORE”
Erin Saywell, Sykesville, MD
My pit-mix is named “Score.” Here’s his story:
I have a friend from an online message board who takes his dogs to a doggy daycare in North Carolina. My friend fostered and found homes for two Lab puppies who had been abandoned near a Dumpster near the daycare, so he was the one the daycare called the next time they needed to find a home for another abandoned pup.
It seems that a drug addict wandered into the daycare’s store area and stole $200 out of a donation jar. A few days later, he wandered back into the store. They told him to get out or they’d call the police. He asked them if they’d seen a puppy. With a lot of eye rolling, they told him to leave. Sure, he’s got a puppy . . . right! About an hour later, they found an eight-week-old puppy sitting on the sidewalk in front of the store. They scooped him up and called my friend, who took the puppy, of course.
My friend posted pictures of the puppy. I asked – half joking – if he’d like to donate the pup to my local assistance dog organization. He agreed readily, and we arranged for the new pup to come to Maryland.
I named him Score, both for his “old owner” and for his new life; he sure “scored”! He ended up washing out of the program because of his looks (too “pit bull”) and he stayed with me. He’s now a service dog demonstrator, a therapy dog, and an awesome flyball dog!
“LIBERTY”
Dawn Goehring, Gatlinburg, TN
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On September 11, 2001, I needed a bit of love so I went to my local animal shelter. I was looking for a dog with good potential for becoming a trick dog. I was just getting started on training a group of dogs to perform together and I needed just the right dog to fit into my family.
When I got to the shelter I saw several dogs that would be great, but one caught my eye. She was a Beagle-mix, just circling in her cage. I knew this was not excitement, but stress. The closer I got, the faster she circled. I took her out. She jumped in my lap and proceeded to lick me all over. It was just the thing I needed on that sad day.
I took out some treats and played with her. I quickly found that she did the most beautiful stand on her back legs, like a statue! And because of the day, I thought of the Statue of Liberty. A patriotic name to remember the day and honor it. Liberty needed a job, as her neurotic circling was a major issue. But 10 years later she is one of my best working dogs, still curls up in my lap with kisses, and will always stand tall like the symbol she was named after!
Runners-up
Pat Miller selected the following three stories as runners-up in our contest, but of course these terrific owners are winners in their own right. What great stories!
“TOBY VAN HOGH”
Talitha Neher
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When we were little, my grandmother used to unpin her hair, brush it until it crackled, and tell us she was a witch. Then she’d tell us the story of Little Dog Toby, who would bark! bark! bark! to scare away the hobbyahs that came of out the swamp at night to eat the Little Old Man and Little Old Woman. Unfortunately for Little Dog Toby, the Little Old Man (who hadn’t read Don’t Shoot the Dog!) thought Toby was just being obnoxious and came out with the scissors each night to cut off a body part and shut him up, starting with his ears.
Fast forward about 25 years, and I’m a veterinarian working with several local rescue groups. Thanks to a tolerant husband, my house is something of a halfway house for injured bully breeds. Usually they go on to long-term placements, but some of them stay. One of those is Toby.
Toby was anonymously relinquished to me after a home ear crop job went south. He came after a street-corner handoff, shaky and sick, ears crusted with blood, and dead tissue and cartilage hanging out everywhere. The lines of Sharpie ink were still visible on one side.
I got some fluids, antibiotics, and pain meds into him and took him to surgery to salvage what was left of his ears and relieve him of his testicles. I contacted Boise Bully Breed Rescue, made a report to Animal Control, and took him home for the night for observation. When I caught myself telling him that “Mommy would never let anyone hurt him like that again,” I knew he wasn’t going into rescue – and that meant he needed a name, preferably one that was pretty charming, since he would grow into an oversized pitty with a lopsided fighting crop.
I called my sister about him. “You have to call him Little Dog Toby!” she said. I also called my best friend from vet school, whose suggestion for a name was “Van Gogh!” Both names seemed to fit him, and he became Toby van Gogh.
He’s almost two years old now and embarking on agility classes. He’s going through a mouthy adolescent stage, but I can’t imagine life without him. I’ve attached a picture of his ears when he came to me and one of him now, hiking with his brother, “Stagger Lee.”
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“ROSCO”
JoAnne Tuffnell
When our son and daughter-in-law brought home their beagle from the Humane Society, his name was “Midas.” They sat down and looked through lists of names, went online for good dog names, and talked with family members. They finally chose “Rosco.” We were all stunned at how quickly he responded to his name and knew their choice had been a good one.
A few weeks later we had tree men working in our woods. I started talking with one of them, and the conversation turned to dogs and rescue animals. I said our kids had just adopted a beagle named Rosco from the Hamilton County Humane Society. “They got Roscoe?” he asked. He proceeded to tell me that his relatives had adopted a dog from the city humane society, but he barked too much for their neighborhood; the relatives asked this man to take the dog, but it didn’t work out for him either, so he returned the dog to the relatives. The relatives then took him to the county humane society, pretending they had found him because they were too embarrassed to return him to the city’s pound. The county group took him in and placed him for adoption.
“But what does that have to do with Rosco?” I asked. The man said, “You said it’s a Beagle, right? And his name is Roscoe?” “Yes,” I answered, “But his name was Midas when my son and daughter-in-law got him. THEY named him Rosco.” He continued to talk about the dog and we compared notes and dates. Yes, the unbelievable is believable. Roscoe the Beagle became Rosco the Beagle. No wonder he learned his name so fast! And the lack of the letter “e” didn’t bother him one bit.
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“ROGUE”
Debbie Schwagerman, Terrell, TX
Most of our dogs are rescues but we think they still deserve full “registered” names anyway! We pulled our latest rescue dog from a shelter that does not even adopt to the general public as our new “foster” dog. We like looking for fosters from this particular shelter because the dogs have such a small chance of getting out.
We were not looking to add a new dog to our permanent pack at all, but her slightly wild nature and sweet, snuggly personality caught us both off guard. We found ourselves unable to give her up when it came down to it. So, she became a permanent member of “The Ruff Mutt Gang” and was then named Ruff Mutt’s Caught Ewe Off Guard, aka “Rogue” (she’s a Border Collie, hence the “ewe” spelling).
A surgical procedure used on humans to remove brain tumors that cause Cushing’s disease is now becoming available to dogs, thanks to collaboration between a human neurosurgeon, a veterinary endocrinologist, and a veterinary surgeon in the Los Angeles area.
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Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism, or HAC) is an adrenal disorder common in middle-aged and older dogs, affecting an estimated 100,000 dogs per year in the U.S. It occurs when the body produces too much cortisol, causing increased appetite and thirst, skin problems, and muscle weakness. Cushing’s can also predispose dogs to other conditions such as diabetes, pancreatitis, and infections.
There are two types of Cushing’s disease: adrenal and pituitary. The pituitary form is the most common, accounting for about 85 percent of cases. Pituitary-dependent Cushing’s is caused by a small, usually benign tumor of the pituitary gland, which leads to overproduction of the hormone ACTH, which in turn triggers the adrenal glands to overproduce cortisol.
Because these tumors have been considered too difficult to remove, pituitary Cushing’s is managed with medications that suppress the production of cortisol. This treatment can relieve symptoms, but cannot cure the disease, and the treatment requires careful monitoring to ensure that cortisol levels don’t get too low. The average life expectancy for dogs with pituitary-dependent HAC is about 30 months, with younger dogs living longer (4 years or more). Many dogs ultimately die or are euthanized due to complications related to Cushing’s disease such as neurological problems, pulmonary thromboembolism, diabetes mellitus, or infection.
Human research into a new type of surgical imaging device is being done at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles. Recently, veterinary endocrinologist Dr. David Bruyette (DVM, DACVIM) and veterinary surgeon Dr. Tina Owen (DVM, DACVS) from VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital contacted the neurosurgeon who had been studying the use of a scope (called a VITOM) and asked if he would investigate whether the device could be used to perform pituitary surgery in dogs. After looking into it, the neurosurgeon recognized that this device would be ideal for dogs, and agreed to show Dr. Owen how to perform neurosurgery to remove pituitary tumors.
The surgery is done by creating a tiny hole in the back of the mouth in order to enter the skull at the base of the brain and remove the tumor. The VITOM, also called an exoscope, displays the area on a large, high-definition monitor, magnified up to 12 times its actual size. The tool makes the procedure easier and safer, but it still requires considerable skill to be able to do such intricate surgery.
I spoke with Dr. Bruyette about the results so far. Dr. Owen has performed the procedure on 15 dogs and two cats. One dog died during the surgery, and two others died after treatment for unrelated reasons; the rest are doing well, with two dogs now remaining symptom-free over a year following surgery. Dr. Bruyette anticipates an intra-operative mortality rate of 2 to 5 percent, and an 85 percent success rate with full remission of symptoms, based on results seen in the Netherlands, where this type of surgery has been performed for several years.
Most dogs remain hospitalized for five to seven days following surgery. Because the pituitary gland controls the sleep/wake cycle, some dogs remain “sleepy” for longer than that. Dogs who live in the area can return home even if still sleepy, but those from outside the area might have to remain hospitalized for up to an additional week. The clinic can work with clients from out of the area, even helping to fly their pets back when ready. Cost of treatment is currently estimated to be $8,000 to $10,000, which should decrease over time.
Currently, Dr. Owen has performed surgery only on dogs with “macrotumors” – those larger than 1 cm. Most pituitary tumors (90 percent) are “microtumors,” too small to be seen by the naked eye. Eventually, they hope to treat tumors of any size. When the tumor can be visualized well, it is sometimes possible to remove the tumor and leave the pituitary gland.
If the tumor cannot be visualized, or cannot be separated from the pituitary gland, the whole gland is removed (“transsphenoidal hypophysectomy”). Veterinary surgeons in the Netherlands have focused on this type of surgery. When the pituitary gland is removed, dogs must be supplemented with thyroid hormone and prednisone to provide cortisol that the body can no longer produce on its own.
Dr. Owen has trained veterinary surgeons at the VCA facility in Boston. She and Dr. Bruyette plan to offer a course on the East Coast later this year to teach other veterinarians to do the procedure. Dr. Bruyette estimates that eventually 5 to 10 specialty facilities in the U.S. will offer this treatment.
Dr. Bruyette also says, however, that ultimately another solution may become available. The doctors hope to do clinical trials on a substance that shrinks pituitary tumors in the laboratory. This oral medication is currently being tested on two dogs, but it’s too soon to know how well it’s working. The researchers are looking for other dogs to participate in clinical trials. Dogs must have a large tumor verified by MRI. Subsequent MRIs will be done at two and three months after starting treatment. If interested, email David.Bruyette@vcahospitals.com.
Do you have a dog recovering from orthopedic or neurologic surgery, one who has mobility issues, or a senior dog who has arthritis? If so, at some point, you have probably wished you could do something – anything! – to help make your dog’s life (and your own) a little easier.
As someone who has shared her life recently with two large breed, geriatric dogs, I can attest firsthand that having a little bit of help can make all the difference in the world. Axel, our 85 lb. Bouvier, in particular, needed assistance toward the end of his life with getting up from lying down, being lightly supported during toileting, and occasionally steadied while walking. We used a few of the products listed below and found that they helped him maintain a good quality of life, mobility, and independence while lessening the physical strain on us.
I asked two veterinarians who specialize in canine rehabilitation to share some of their top picks for canine assistive/rehabilitative equipment. Laurie McCauley, DVM, CCRT, is founder and medical director of TOPS Veterinary Rehabilitation in Grayslake, Illinois, and is considered one of the pioneers in the field of veterinary rehabilitation. Evelyn Orenbuch, DVM, CAVCA, CCRT, recently opened Georgia Veterinary Rehabilitation, Fitness and Pain Management in Marietta, Georgia, and has focused on veterinary rehab medicine since 2003. (Full disclosure: I have worked with Dr. Orenbuch in my capacity as a marketing consultant during the launch of her new clinic.)
Photo courtesy Blue Dog Designs
Orthopedic Dog Harnesses
My favorite tool (and that of both veterinarians) is RuffWear’s Web Master™ Harness, described as a supportive, multi-use harness. Originally designed for dogs with active lifestyles (e.g., hiking, search and rescue), the harness has gained a big following with pet people looking for a way to give their dogs assistance in getting up and moving around, whether it be post-surgery or due to a degenerative or other medical condition. The harness features a well-placed, large handle, and is sturdy, machine-washable, and great for helping a dog up, or providing a steadying hand. The only downside is that the dog is required to lift a front paw to get into the harness. Suggested retail price: $50.
Offering more support is the Help ‘Em Up Harness from Blue Dog Designs. Both vets and I also give this product four paws up. The Help ‘Em Up is a complete shoulder and hip harness system, featuring two comfortable, rubber handles, one at the front and one at the back. The harness is well made, machine washable, and the front support is detachable from the back. To put the harness on, you don’t need to lift any of the dog’s limbs; I was even able to put it on my Bouvier, Axel, when he was lying down. Suggested retail price: $90 to $110.
Both the Web Master and Help ‘Em Up are comfortable enough for the dog to wear throughout the day in the house.
Orthopedic Foot Wear for Dogs
For dogs who have difficulty navigating slippery floors, Dr. McCauley likes Show Foot™ Anti-Slip Spray by Bio-Groom. Show Foot can be sprayed directly on the bottom of the dog’s feet (pads), or, if the dog is sensitive to the spray sound, can be sprayed on a cotton ball and dabbed on. The spray makes the feet feel tacky so they are less likely to slide on indoor slick surfaces.
Having hardwood floors in our house, I tried this product with Axel and found some success. It did leave some smudges where he walked, but they were easily wiped up. Priced at about $10.
Particularly for outdoor use, but great for any dog needing extra traction indoors or out, Dr. McCauley recommends Thera-Paw boots by Thera-Paw. These boots are made of a comfortable, breathable, lightweight, washable neoprene material. They are unique in that they have a front opening, so they’re great for dogs who don’t like to put their feet into boots. The boots use a Velcro closure, and have a natural flex point.
Although suitable for indoor use, these boots are especially good for dogs who need help outside or who chew their feet. The boots are sold individually, which is a nice option if your dog needs only two. Suggested retail: $22.
Photo courtesy of Handicapped Pets
Mobility Devices for Dogs
For dogs who have limited hind end mobility and strength, Walkin’ Wheels offers a two-wheeled adjustable wheelchair that can be adapted as your dog’s needs change.
When a dog first requires a cart, he might be strong in the front end. But with time, or if he has a condition such as degenerative myelopathy, his front end can become weak, too. Dr. McCauley likes Walkin’ Wheels because the angle of the wheels, and therefore the cart’s balance point, can be changed to take the weight off of the dog’s front end, allowing longer ambulatory quality of life for him.
The company sells direct to consumers, and there are numerous instructional videos on fit and sizing on the company website. However, Dr. McCauley recommends that consumers work with their rehab veterinarian to get the correct fit. Walkin’ Wheels are priced from about $250 to $500.
For dogs who cannot put their full weight on their front limbs, but still have motor ability in their hind limbs, Dr. Orenbuch likes a four-wheeled cart, so that the dog can continue to engage his hind legs. A “quad cart” can give the dog support by transferring his weight to the wheels while allowing him to use his legs as much or as little as possible.
Photo courtesy Canine Icer
Putting a disabled dog into a cart does not have to signal the end, says Dr. Orenbuch. Depending on your pet’s condition, using a quad cart can actually speed the rehab process, allowing the dog to achieve greater mobility. She does not have a particular model that is a favorite. Talk with your dog’s rehab vet about whether your dog is a candidate for a quad cart.
Other Aids for Old or Injured Dogs
Dr. Orenbuch casts a vote for another Thera-Paw product, the Hind Limb Dorsi-Flex Assist. These light-weight custom braces provide support and stability for weak or dragging rear paws. Dr. Orenbuch likes them for dogs who have neurologic deficits such as degenerative myelopathy or disc disease, and whose rear toes knuckle, or turn under, as a result.
This product allows those dogs to walk nearly normally and have been used on dogs ranging from a 2-lb. Chihuahua to a 220-lb. Bull Mastiff. She cautions that they are not, carte blanche, for any dog with these conditions, and should be prescribed and fitted by your rehab veterinarian. They generally retail for $75 and up; this is typically a custom-ordered and custom-made product.
Photo courtesy Thera-Paw
Many older dogs have chronically overused or injured their wrists, resulting in arthritis. For those dogs, or others who have wrist pain or have stretched the ligaments that stabilize the wrist, Dr. McCauley recommends Canine Icer Carpal Wraps. Many people don’t realize that sore wrists are a problem for their dogs. How can you tell? If your dog has his shoulder and elbow bent, when you bend his wrist downward, his toes should be able to touch his forearm. If this motion is uncomfortable, or if he tightens his muscles or pulls away, then Carpal Wraps can help.
Carpal support is also good for dogs whose wrist joints bend the “wrong way” when they’re standing. These dogs have hyperextension, and carpal support can help slow the progression of arthritis and the accompanying discomfort. Dr. McCauley likes the Carpal Wraps because they do not stop the dog from using the wrist (immobilization makes the joint weaker) but work by preventing the wrist from hyper-extending (which is what causes pain). She recommends dogs wear them on walks or when playing or running around. Suggested retail price: $21 (each).
Lisa Rodier is a frequent contributor to WDJ. She recently assisted in the launch of the Georgia Veterinary Rehabilitation, Fitness, and Pain Management facility. She shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.
When you think “leash,” chances are you think of a four-to-six-foot strap made of nylon, cotton, hemp, leather, or (horrors!) chain, with a snap that attaches to your dog’s collar at one end and a handle for you to hold at the other. You use it to keep him close to you when you take him for walks or other places where he has to be under control. But a leash can be so much more than that!
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Let’s think outside the box. There’s no law that says leashes have to be a certain length, made of a particular material, or be limited to one snap and one handle. There are all kinds of things you can do with non-traditional leashes. Heck, there’s even a good use for the grocery store chain leash.
Long and Short Of It
It’s true that four to six feet is a good length for normal leash-walking. That’s long enough that you can leave slack in the leash, as is desirable when your dog is walking politely by your side, but short enough you don’t have a large wad of leash-spaghetti in your hands when you want to gather it up so no one steps on it. However, shorter can be good sometimes. So can longer. The following are descriptions of some other useful leash lengths, and what they have to offer.
–Tab: A tab is a three-to-six inch bit of leash that makes it easier to snag your dog in a hurry, if necessary, without grabbing for his collar – a move that many dogs consider rude or intimidating, and that sometimes can elicit aggression. You can leave a tab on your dog at home to corral him easily if the doorbell rings, or make it easier on all parties if he gets tense when you reach for him for any husbandry or management purposes. Sure, you’d like to desensitize him to collar grabs (see “Stay in Touch,” February 2011), but in the meantime a tab can keep you both happy.
A tab can also be useful at an off-leash training class, or at the dog park – again, if you want to quickly get him under control with minimum tension. Agility people use them a lot.
You can buy tabs commercially; I like the ones from sitstay.com (800-748-7829). Or simply cut an old leash to the desired three to six inches. You can also make one from scratch. The more tense your dog is about having his collar grasped, the longer you might want to make your tab.
Note: The tab should be removed from your dog’s collar for safety reasons when he’s not under your direct supervision.
–Drag line: A drag line serves a similar purpose as the tab, only more so. This is a four-to-six-foot (or longer) light line that stays attached to your dog’s collar when he’s in the house. You can step on it to prevent your dog from dashing out the door, jumping up to greet a guest, “surfing” the counter, or leaping onto an off-limits piece of furniture. Or, step on it to interrupt a game of keep-away when he has something he shouldn’t (after which you cheerfully trade him something wonderful for the forbidden object, of course.) You can probably think of additional uses for your own canine challenges – perhaps gently inviting your uncooperative pal out from under the bed. Drag lines are available commercially in strong, light materials such as parachute cord (petexpertise.com; 888-473-8397) or you can make your own. Remember to remove the line from your dog’s collar when no one is home to supervise!
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–Long line or light line: These can run anywhere from 15 to 50 feet, and are for outdoor use. They are most frequently used for teaching reliable recalls at increasing distances (see “A Line on Insurance” on the next page). But they can also be used as an outdoor dragline for backup insurance when you’re not quite sure about your dog’s recall, and to give your dog more hiking freedom when you know you can’t yet trust his recall.
The long line is generally heavier – flat nylon or cotton canvas or marine rope – while the light line is usually parachute cord or some other strong nylon. (I like the ones from genuinedoggear.com; 813-920-5241.)
It takes some skill to manage long and light lines without turning them into a knotted mess, but it’s worth the effort. Although popular because they offer the easy convenience of self-rewinding, retractable leads have far too many drawbacks to be considered a viable training tool.
Caution: If you’re using your long line or light line as a drag line and your dog runs off, he can get tangled around trees and brush and need rescuing because he won’t be able to return to you. Be careful!
Design Makes a Difference
Is there a better mousetrap in the world of leashes? It all depends on what your needs are. A standard leash is certainly the workhorse of the leash-walking set, but there are others that just might be perfect for you and your dog. We’re not talking about the endless variety of designer colors and patterns to match every outfit and holiday; we’re talking function here.
There are couplers that let you walk two dogs without tangling leashes. Leashes that attach your dog to your bicycle. Leashes with two handles, one near the collar, that give you instant control if you suddenly need it (like the ones from fetchdog.com; 800-595-0595). There are hands-free/multi-function leashes that can change length or double as a coupler or a tether (thedogoutdoors.com; 513-703-0210), and non-slip grip leashes that give you added traction, even in the rain. (Check out the ones from ruffgrip.com; 800-547-3966. I’ve had one of these for a long time and love it!)
Agility folks even use special leashes that have been designed to contain their dog’s special reinforcers: tug toys! Clean Run (cleanrun.com; 800-311-6503) has a whole line of leashes that are designed for tugging.
Don’t forget the T-Touch Balance leash, with a snap at each end and a handle in the middle on a sliding ring so you can attach it to a collar and a harness (available from ttouch.com; 866-488-6824). You use the two ends of the leash almost like reins on a horse, to send subtle, gentle communications to your dog. A similar leash sold by Wiggles, Wags & Whiskers with their Freedom No-Pull Harness functions the same way (wiggleswagswhiskers.com, 866-944-9247).
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Speaking of no-pull and thinking outside the box, here’s a handy tip: You can take that basic six-foot leash (any material other than chain), attach it to your dog’s collar, run it from the back of his neck, down behind the elbow, under his rib cage and up the other side, slip it under the leash where the clip is, around the front of his chest and bring it up under the leash on the other side, and you have an instant emergency no-pull harness.
Material World
Nylon, cotton, hemp, and leather are the materials most commonly used for training leashes. Some trainers prefer leather because it is less abrasive to your hands if your dog pulls. Nylon leashes tend to be the least expensive, with cotton and hemp close behind.
Long lines and light lines tend to be made of parachute cord and other light-but-strong nylon fibers. You can find cotton long lines, but some people complain about how heavy cotton gets when it gets wet (as when it gets dragged through wet grass).
Chain leashes have the most potential to cause significant injury to your hands. However they do have a narrow niche in a training toolbox: they can be useful for dogs who chew on (or chew through) their leather or fabric leashes.
Chain leashes can also be used to discourage a dog who tries to tug on his leash when you prefer that he not. With a non-chain leash, when you resist your dog’s pulling (you can’t just drop the leash and let him go!) he gets reinforced for his inappropriate leash behavior (it’s fun!) – so his leash tugging and chewing may persist and even increase. Most dogs find biting on metal chain mildly aversive, so they learn to keep their teeth off their leash while you work to reinforce more appropriate behaviors.
The other critically important piece of your leash or long line is the snap. You want a leash with quality hardware that won’t rust, corrode, freeze up, or otherwise fail you in an emergency. The last thing you need is a snap that pops open or breaks at the exact instant your dog reaches the end of it. Extra soft, strong, nylon webbing leashes and long lines fitted with very sturdy brass hardware are available from White Pine Outfitters (whitepineoutfitters.com; 715-372-5627).
It’s well worth spending more for well-designed, good quality leash equipment that can last the life of your dog, and might save your dog’s life one day. One of my favorites is the well-made 30-foot light line at Genuine Dog Gear. At $22.95, that’s less than $1.50 per year for a dog who lives to be 15, or four tenths of a cent per day. Another is the 50-foot soft web long line from White Pine Outfitters. At $55.60 that’s still only $3.70 per year, or a penny a day. Isn’t he worth at least that?
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The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
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The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
