So, what should you do if your dog is the victim of a canine bully? Intervene, by all means. Here are some of the signs to look for that tell you that you need to step in and break up the interaction. Your dog:
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-Tries to get away or hides behind you, or behind chairs.
-Offers appeasement behaviors (ears back, squinty eyes, lowered body posture, rolls on her back, urinates) to signal the other dog to back off.
-Snaps at the other dog when his appeasement signals are ignored.
-Doesn’t offer to re-engage if there is a pause in the action.
-Just doesn’t look like he’s enjoying himself.
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If you see any of these signs when your dog is interacting with another, step in and separate the dogs. Give both dogs a time-out to let arousal levels settle. If your dog was enjoying himself for a while but then became overwhelmed, you might try letting them play again. Watch closely. If the other dog starts to become inappropriate again, stop the play before your dog shows signs of discomfort. Give both dogs another time out, and try again.
Over time, the bully may learn that play stops every time he gets too rough, and start to self-inhibit his play. Alternatively, you can ask the bully dog’s owner to redirect her dog’s behavior to a different activity that will keep your dog safe, as we did with Lucy.
If your dog was intensely bullied from the start of the interaction, a serious fight erupted, you can’t redirect the bully dog’s behavior to another activity, or you’re not interested in risking your dog’s safety in the interest of modifying the other dog’s behavior, you’re better off ending the session after the first intervention.
1. Lots of animal protein at the top of the ingredients list
Ingredients are listed by weight, so you want to see a lot of top quality animal protein at the top of the list; the first ingredient should be a “named” animal protein source (see next bullet).
2. A named animal protein
Chicken, beef, lamb, and so on. “Meat” is an example of a low-quality protein source of dubious origin. Animal protein “meals” should also be from named species (look for “beef meal” but avoid “meat meal”).
3. An animal protein meal in a supporting role when a fresh meat is first on the ingredient list
This is to augment the total animal protein in the diet. Fresh (or frozen) meat contains a lot of water, and water is heavy, so if a fresh meat is first on the list, another source of animal protein should be listed in the top three or so ingredients. Fresh or frozen meats do not contain enough protein to be used as the sole animal protein source in a dry food; they contain as much as 65 to 75 percent water and only 15 to 25 percent protein. In contrast, animal protein “meals” – meat, bone, skin, and connective tissue that’s been rendered and dried – contain only about 10 percent moisture, and as much as 65 percent protein.
4. Whole vegetables, fruits, and grains
Fresh, unprocessed food ingredients contain nutrients in all their natural, complex glory, with their fragile vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants intact. Don’t be alarmed by one or two food “fractions” (a by-product or part of an ingredient, like tomato pomace or rice bran), especially if they are low on the ingredients list. But it’s less than ideal if there are several fractions present in the food, and/or they appear high on the ingredients list.
5. A “best by” date that’s at least six months away
A best by date that’s 10 or 11 months away is ideal; it means the food was made very recently. Note: Foods made with synthetic preservatives (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin) may have a “best by” date that is as much as two years past the date of manufacture.
What You Don’t Want to Buy:
– Meat by-products or poultry by-products
Higher-value ingredients are processed and stored more carefully (kept clean and cold) than lower-cost ingredients (such as by-products) by the processors.
– A “generic” fat source
Such as “animal fat.” This can literally be any fat of animal origin, including used restaurant grease and fats derived from roadkill. “Poultry” fat is not quite as suspect as “animal fat,” but “chicken fat” or “duck fat” is better (and traceable).
– Added sweeteners
Dogs, like humans, enjoy the taste of sweet foods. Sweeteners effectively persuade many dogs to eat foods comprised mainly of grain fragments (and containing little healthy animal protein).
– Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives (i.e., BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin)
The color of the food doesn’t matter to your dog. And it should be flavored well enough to be enticing with healthy meats and fats. Natural preservatives, such as tocopherols (forms of vitamin E), vitamin C, and rosemary extract, can be used instead. Note that natural preservatives do not preserve foods as long as artificial preservatives, so owners should always check the “best by” date on the label and look for relatively fresh products.
If you met Bonnie today, there’s a 95 percent chance you could greet her without having her pee on the floor. That wasn’t always the case. In fact, when we adopted the six-month-old Scorgidoodle six years ago her submissive urination behavior was so extreme I awarded my academy students extra credit points if they could greet her without making her pee. Only a few students earned those points the first year.
In fact, the adorable Bonnie had been surrendered to the shelter because her owners “couldn’t housetrain her.” Far too many dog owners mistake submissive and excitement urination as a house-training problem when they are actually behavioral issues. Sadly, many dogs are punished for these presentations of inappropriate urination; in both cases, this is the worst thing you can do, as it is highly likely to make the behavior worse, not better.
Some behavior professionals consider excitement and submissive urination to be on a continuum of the same behavior, while others make a clear distinction between the two. These are both involuntary behaviors, meaning the dog is not deliberately house soiling, but rather simply reacting to conditions in his environment. The behavior is not under his control.
In both cases, the first step is a trip to your dog’s veterinarian, to rule out any medical or physical causes for or contributors to the behavior, such as a urinary tract infection. Assuming no medical condition, the next step is behavior modification. Of the two behaviors, excitement urination is generally the easier to resolve, so let’s look at that one first.
Excitement Urination for Dogs
This is the canine equivalent of, “Whee! I’m so happy and excited I peed my pants!” This behavior is seen as simple immaturity, particularly common among young, exuberant dogs of many breeds and either gender, who have not yet developed complete neuromuscular control. The dog sometimes doesn’t even squat (or lift a leg), and may urinate while standing, walking, running, or jumping up and down. The best solution is tincture of time; many dogs simply outgrow the behavior as they attain physical maturity. Additionally, you can:
1. If possible, greet your dog outside, and have guests greet him outside. This won’t reduce the excitement urination, but will reduce clean-up chores.
2. Take your dog for more-frequent-than-normal walks so her bladder is always as empty as possible.
3. Teach your dog to relax, by calmly reinforcing relaxed behavior (lying down; standing calmly with four feet on the floor; sitting quietly to greet people). A relaxation protocol such as the one developed by Dr. Karen Overall can be very useful.
4. Provide your dog with more aerobic exercise. Off-leash hikes; playing with other dogs (where safe and legal); and good, hard fetching sessions with a ball or flying disk are all great ways to expend the excitement energy that can cause loss of bladder control. Tired dogs don’t get as excited as underexercised ones!
5. Greet your dog calmly, with quiet body language and a low tone of voice, and/or or don’t greet him at all until he calms down.
6. Instruct visitors to greet your dog calmly, with quiet body language and a low tone of voice, rather than encouraging excitement. (Teaching other humans to alter their dog-greeting behavior is often the most difficult task!)
7. Calmly ignore any damp greetings, and quietly ask your dog for a relaxation behavior you’ve already trained that is incompatible with excitement, such as lying in “sphinx position” or on his side, head on the floor.
8. Do not punish your dog – or yell or behave angrily, even if it’s not directed at him – if he makes a mistake.
Submissive Urination in Dogs
This behavior is more common in young dogs than older ones and in more females than males, and it appears more frequently in certain breeds, including Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, and Dachshunds – but can occur in any dog. Prime candidates for submissive urination are dogs who are also otherwise behaviorally submissive. Unlike excitement urination, a dog who pees submissively may also offer other appeasement behaviors such as a lowered body posture, flattened ears, rolling over, licking, and looking away. The dog may offer a subdued greeting or greet with some excitement.
The more assertive a human’s approach to a pee-prone dog, the more likely a puddle is to appear. Hence, men – especially large, deep-voiced men – are more apt to trigger urination than are soft-spoken, small women. Fast, direct, exuberant approaches by any human are riskier than slow, calm, approaches. Direct eye contact, patting the dog on top of his head, and bending over the dog are more likely to trigger submissive responses – including urination – than are averted eyes, kneeling sideways, and scratching the dog under his chin or on his chest.
Many dog owners are surprised to discover that submissive urination is a natural, normal behavior. It probably stems initially from the mother’s practice of stimulating reflexive urination in young puppies by licking the urogenital area. In the canine world, it keeps a lower-ranking member of a group safe from a higher-ranking member. The dog who squats and pees when greeting another dog sends a strong, clear message, saying, “I am not challenging you, I acknowledge your superiority, there’s no need to hurt me.” It usually works well, with other dogs. With humans, not so much. I try to convince my clients that their submissively peeing dogs are actually giving them a huge “You da boss!” compliment, in an effort to change their perception of – and response to – their dogs’ behavior.
While submissive urination behavior is innate, and occurs in many puppies up to the age of six to eight weeks in the presence of perceived threats to their safety, it normally ceases pretty quickly as the pup matures and gains confidence. However, it is exacerbated and more likely to continue into adolescence or even adulthood if it is mismanaged with inappropriate punishment or excessive control by an overbearing human or dog.
A pup who is punished by his owner for normal housetraining accidents (or other typical puppy transgressions such as chewing) may start offering submissive urination in anticipation of the punishment associated with his owner’s presence. Eventually, any time the owner (or another human) looks at, walks toward, reaches for, or touches the pup, he may urinate. Therefore, to prevent the development of submissive urination in your growing pup, manage his environment to prevent exposure to overbearing, punishment-oriented humans, and limit his access to dogs who may behave aggressively with or bully him, or be otherwise inappropriately assertive.
If it’s too late for prevention, or you are dealing with submissive urination despite your appropriate environmental management, all is not lost. It is possible to modify submissive urination, although it can take a healthy helping of time, patience, and commitment. Here’s how:
1. Whenever possible, greet the dog outdoors. Have someone let him out to greet you in a fenced yard or other safe area when you arrive home. If no one else is home, ignore the dog until you let him out, and then greet him outside.
2. Keep your greetings calm. Rapid body movements and loud or excited voices are more likely to trigger a release of urine in both submissive and excitement urinators. Move slowly and speak in a calm, soft voice. Have all family members and visitors follow the same behavior guidelines. The more consistent and successful everyone is in not triggering the behavior, the sooner it will go away.
3. Take him out frequently to pee outdoors. A full bladder releases more easily – and makes a larger puddle – than an empty or near-empty one.
4. When you do greet, either indoors or out, turn sideways to the dog, kneel down with your upper body straight rather than bending over, avoid direct eye contact, let him approach you, and scratch him under the chin rather than petting him on top of the head or on the back of the neck.
5. If an accident does happen, do not react verbally or physically. Calmly invite the dog outside and then clean up the puddle.
6. Give visitors treats or a toy to offer to your dog. This encourages the dog to increase body height and move forward (more assertive behaviors) and gives guests something to do other than pat the dog’s head.
7. Teach him to target. Like taking a treat, having him target his nose to your hand encourages him to offer a more assertive behavior in greeting. Invite your guests to ask him to target to their hands – open palm, fingers pointed down.
8. Implement other confidence-building protocols such as “Find It” and “Treat and Retreat.” (For more about these bravery-building exercises, see “Building Your Dog’s Confidence Up“.) When you can’t control the behavior of your visitors, perhaps during a large party, keep your dog crated or closed in a safe room, where he won’t be subjected to urination-eliciting behavior.
9. Use one of the various doggie diaper or belly-band products that are availableto catch the urine and prevent damage to carpets and floors while you work on modifying the behavior.
10. Remember that your dog can’t help it. Reminding yourself that he cannot control his response helps you to avoid getting angry and minimizes the possibility that you may inadvertently send body language signals that tell your dog you are upset and as a result trigger more submissive urination.
11. Take your dog to a good, positive training class. Not only can the trainer help you with the submissive urination challenge, but the improved communication between you and your dog that occurs as a result of positive training will help him gain more confidence and end his submissive responses sooner.
12. If modification efforts are not successful and the behavior continues into your dog’s adulthood, consult a veterinary behaviorist or behavior-knowledgeable veterinarian about the use of medications that can increase the dog’s general muscle tone and control, including the muscles of the urethra.
Successful Greetings
If you have a submissive or excitement urinator, you can be very optimistic. Most dogs can overcome these problems relatively easily with appropriate management and modification techniques. Our beloved Bonnie, now almost seven, has been one of the most persistent cases I’ve ever encountered. In addition to her submissive urination, she is one of the less reliably housetrained dogs I’ve ever owned, supporting the theory of weak urethra muscles. She is still crated at night, to ensure an accident-free sleep time.
However, I no longer award extra-credit points to academy students for pee-free greetings. At one time so sensitive that simply walking toward her could trigger a puddle, Bonnie is now mostly pee-free when met with normal low-key greetings. (I do still warn students of the need to greet her calmly.) If I try, I can still elicit a small puddle from her in one circumstance – when she has something in her mouth I need to take from her (she does have a tendency to pick up stuff!). When she does, I avoid a pee response simply by trading her for a treat, rather than just taking the object away (a better approach to retrieving an object from your dog anyway!). However, my husband and I no longer have to use any caution at all when greeting her – we can bend over, pat her on the head, hug her, and do all the other normal, stupid-primate things we humans like to do to our dogs. If Bonnie can do it, your dog can, too.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Author of numerous books on positive dog training, she lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers.
If you use these products, you may need to find alternatives.
It seems like every time I turn around these days, I hear about another drug shortage (more on that topic in an upcoming WDJ article). This time, it’s Novartis Animal Health announcing in late December that it has suspended production of Interceptor, Sentinel, and other drugs while its manufacturing facility in Lincoln, Nebraska, undergoes “voluntary” improvements. Numerous human and animal over-the-counter drugs are manufactured at this plant. According to reports, the company hopes to know in January when production will be resumed.
If you currently use either of these products, you may need to find a substitute, at least temporarily. Interceptor is a monthly heartworm preventive medication; it should be easy to switch to Heartgard (or generic equivalent), Revolution, or the newer Advantage Multi. Be sure to purchase these from a reliable source to avoid potentially ineffective counterfeit products. See “When Buying Veterinary Drugs Online, Look for Accredited Sites,” (WDJ June 2011)
Sentinel is a combination of Interceptor (milbemycin oxime) and Program (lufenuron), an insect growth regulator that prevents fleas that bite your dog from producing viable offspring, and therefore can be useful in combating a flea infestation. Program is manufactured by Novartis and is therefore almost certainly one of the other products whose production has been suspended. If you don’t have fleas, you don’t need to use lufenuron.
If you do have a flea problem, you can switch to flea and tick products that contain their own insect growth regulators. Advantage II and Advantix II use pyriproxyfen (Nylar), while Frontline Plus and Certifect use S-methoprene (Precor). For more information on these products, see “New Flea and Tick Products Hit the Market” (WDJ December 2011).
Swedish dog owner Nina Ottosson first marketed some of her puzzles and games for dogs in Sweden in 1993; we first heard about them (and reviewed the original wood versions) in 2008. Since then, probably in a defensive response to a number of cheap plastic knockoffs of her designs, Ottosson has developed a line of high-quality plastic toys, though the original, beautiful wood models that are made in Sweden are still available. The wood ones are sturdy and gorgeous – and more expensive. The plastic ones are also quite rugged, holding up to all sorts of clawing and even being picked up and dropped and continuing to work perfectly.
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We tested one of the knockoffs, as well as Ottosson’s plastic “Dog Twister” model; there was no comparison. Our dogs were finished with the knockoff in minutes; but many designs of the Ottosson toys, like the Dog Twister, are designed with several levels of difficulty and continue to provide a challenge for dogs after months of play. In addition, Ottosson makes more complex toys and simpler toys; as her website says, “Whether you have a ‘Forrest Gump’ or an ‘Albert Einstein’, there is a Nina Ottosson game design to suit every dog!” (Even our young cats got into the action, using their claws to manipulate the pieces; Ottosson indicates which of the toys are appropriate for cats!)
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These toys are great for occupying puppies, giving non-ambulatory or post-surgical dogs something to do, or just amusing yourself while amusing your dog!
We purchased from Amazon.com, but the toys are available from a number of online retailers, listed on the website below.
Dog Twister, Plastic – $42
Nina Ottosson Dog Activity Toys Karlskoga, Sweden 46-586-30034 nina-ottosson.com
So, you’ve recently adopted an adolescent or adult dog, or you’re planning to adopt one from a rescue group or shelter in the near future. Good for you! It generally takes adult dogs a lot longer to get adopted than those irresistible, pudgy puppies – even when they are calmer, better-socialized, house-trained, and past the “chew everything in sight” stage. Shelter staffers often shake their heads as families pass up ideal, kid-friendly adult dogs in favor of pups of some highly inappropriate breed or type, just because they are puppies.
There are a multitude of benefits when you bring an adult dog into your family. You don’t have to deal with those nasty-sharp puppy teeth. And because your dog has her adult teeth, she is less likely to chew everything within her reach. If not already housetrained (and many are), a mature dog at least has the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for longer periods of time, and can usually learn appropriate bathroom habits quickly, with proper management and training.
Plus, an adult needs to be fed only twice a day, whereas young puppies need lunch as well as breakfast and dinner. And healthy, mature dogs are capable of more physical activity than puppies, so if you’re looking for a ready-made exercise partner, you don’t have to wait months for your running buddy to accompany you as you prepare for your next 10k run. As an added benefit, you have that feel-good feeling that comes with adopting a dog who might otherwise not find her forever home.
I do not, by any means, intend to imply that adopting an adult dog is all smooth sailing. Many shelter dogs settle into their new homes without a ripple, but some arrive with minor behavioral challenges, and others carry with them a significant amount of baggage. Don’t despair! If you’re grounded in the reality that no dog is perfect from the get-go, and you’re prepared and poised to help your new dog learn your household rules, conventions, and codes of conduct starting on day 1, his potential for success in your family is very good.
Make Your Own Evaluation of Your Adoption Prospects
Most shelters do some sort of behavior evaluation of the dogs in their care, so you may be warned about potentially inappropriate behaviors. This may come in the form of answers on a questionnaire (if your new dog had been surrendered to the shelter by her previous owner), or notes from a staff member or a volunteer based on their observations. If you don’t allow yourself to get distracted by the shelter’s commotion, you’ll have the opportunity to make your own observations about the potential adoptee during an introduction session. Behaviors like lifting his leg in the get-acquainted room, counter-surfing to snatch toys or treats off the table, or leaping into your lap when you sit on a chair are likely to be repeated in his new environment.
Again: Don’t let these sorts of minor transgressions dissuade you from adopting the dog. All of these are typical for untrained dogs – and absolutely expected from untrained puppies!
What if your new adoptee does seem perfect? While that would be nice, it’s also possible that you will experience a “honeymoon period” with your new family member, one that may range anywhere from a few days to several months. Unforeseen behaviors may manifest over time, as the dog tests new behavioral strategies and discovers which ones are reinforced (by you, by other family members, by visitors, or by the environment), or as she recovers from the recent traumas in her life. She may become bolder about engaging in behaviors that were temporarily shut-down by the stress of her recent life experiences.
If you’re prepared for unwanted behaviors to surface, it will be easier to work through them. If tempted to give up when poor manners emerge, keep in mind that your adoptee’s previous owner(s) already gave up on her at least once, if not several times.
Be Prepared to Manage Behavioral Problems
The first, almost universal answer to the question of handling behavior problems is management, hand-in-hand with a medical exam.
These days, many shelter dogs come with a free “well-pet exam.” Commonly, private veterinarians in practice near a shelter generously offer their services at a discount for dogs adopted from the shelter or rescue. Take advantage of the offer as soon as possible. If your dog doesn’t come with a free check-up, make an appointment for the veterinarian you’ve interviewed and selected to be your dog’s doctor.
It’s not uncommon for a previously undetected health problem that could lead to behavior issues to be identified at this time. For example, my husband and I adopted an adult Pomeranian, who lifted his leg and peed in the house – a lot! The veterinarian who provided a reduced-cost exam diagnosed a bladder stone, the removal of which quickly resolved Scooter’s house soiling behavior.
Management’s role is also critical in modifying your adopted dog’s behavior. The more often she gets to practice (and be reinforced for) an inappropriate behavior, the harder it is to modify that behavior down the road. The behavior becomes a well-practiced habit; she’ll be convinced that it will pay off if she just tries hard enough, or often enough. Don’t wait “to give her time to settle in.” Start reinforcing the behaviors you like the most (such as polite sitting) ASAP.
Common (Mis)Behaviors in Adult Rescue Dogs
Here are some common misbehaviors you might find in adult shelter dogs, along with some tips on how to work with them. If you have to prioritize a list of undesirable behaviors that came with your adopted dog, I’d suggest you start with the first two that follow: house soiling and separation anxiety, as they are two that are most likely to cause your dog to lose her happy home, yet again.
House Soiling – Some adult shelter dogs are already housetrained. Some are not. Depending on how house-proud you are, house soiling may be a minor annoyance, or a major affront to your sensibilities. When you bring your shelter dog home, assume she isn’t housetrained, and put her on an express puppy housetraining schedule: Under constant supervision (with the help of baby gates, closed doors, and leashes) or in a crate or exercise pen. Of course, you must crate train her if she isn’t already, in order to take advantage of this valuable management tool. If you just toss her in her crate and leave, you risk teaching her to hate her crate. (See “The Benefits of Crate Training Your Dog from an Early Age,” January 2011.)
Take her outside every hour on the hour for the first day or two, and reward and praise on the spot when she eliminates. If she seems to be getting the idea, over the course of a few days, gradually give her more house freedom and extend the time between trips outside. If gradual freedom results in house accidents, go back to more supervision (and clean the soiled spots well with an enzymatic cleaner designed for cleaning up animal waste).
If you catch her mid-accident, cheerfully interrupt her with an “Oops! Outside!” Take her to her potty spot – and make a mental note to amp up your supervision and increase her bathroom opportunities. Do not make a big deal, or you risk teaching her it’s not safe to go in your presence. Good luck getting her to go to the bathroom on leash if that happens!
At first, don’t crate your dog for more than four hours at a time. That might mean hiring a dog walker if no one in the family can come home and let her out at lunchtime. Eight hours at night is acceptable, as long as she is crated where you can hear her (preferably in your bedroom) if she wakes up and asks to go out. If your dog soils her crate or exercise pen during a reasonable period of confinement, you have a bigger challenge ahead of you. You may need to reverse crate train, which means putting her in the crate for short periods, only when you know she is “empty,” and having her under your direct supervision when she’s not crated.
If your dog is having inexplicable accidents despite your excellent management, head back to the vet to determine if she has a urinary tract infection (which makes it impossible for her to hold her urine for very long), loose stools (which would make it impossible to hold her bowel movements for long), or some other condition that makes it difficult or impossible for her to be housetrained.
“Marking” is a different behavior from simple housesoiling. It is sometimes (but not always) resolved by neutering. Persistent marking can be caused by stress. If that’s the case with your shelter dog, removing as much stress as possible from his life may help. You may need to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional who uses positive reinforcement methods. Belly-bands and “PeeKeepers” (see peekeeper.com) are useful house-preserving tools to use on your dog while you try to modify marking behavior. (For more about dogs who “mark” indoors, see “Ways to Combat Your Dog’s Indoor Urine-Marking,” September 2009.)
Separation anxiety – Full-blown separation anxiety can be an extremely challenging behavior to live with, manage, and modify. For starters, most dogs with significant separation or isolation issues don’t tolerate a crate well, so the “confine them to keep them out of trouble” option isn’t available.
The good news is that many of these dogs actually have separation (have to be with the one person the dog has connected to) or isolation (doesn’t like to be left alone) distress, rather than true anxiety. The intensity of canine behavior with these conditions is on a continuum from low level intensity (unhappy, but calms down after a reasonably short time, without destroying the house) to extreme panic (dog injures himself, vocalizes non-stop for hours on end, and causes massive destruction to household). If your shelter adoptee is demonstrating anxiety on the extreme end of the continuum, a trip to the veterinarian for anti-anxiety medications is in order. This will make life easier for her, and for you, while you work to modify her behaviors. (For more information about separation anxiety and separation distress, see “How to Manage Separation Anxiety in Dogs,” July 2008.)
Dr. Karen Overall’s very detailed, “Protocol for Relaxation” is useful for modifying separation/isolation distress. A downloadable, auditory version can be found at championofmyheart.com/relaxation-protocol-mp3-files.
Vocalizing – There are many different kinds of canine vocalizations: barking, whining, howling, yelping, growling, and more. You may not want to stop all of your dog’s noisemaking, but there may be some you’d prefer to minimize. It’s important that you learn and understand what each one means before simply trying to make them all go away. There may even be some you decide you’d like to reinforce! (For more about training your dog to be quieter, see “Modifying Your Dog’s Barking Behavior,” July 2007.)
Chewing – If you think adopting an adult dog is guaranteed to save you from chewing disasters, think again. While puppies are the masters of chewing behavior, dogs really do chew throughout their lives. If a dog has been well managed, he will develop appropriate chew-preferences and be reasonably trustworthy around your possessions. If he was allowed to run amuck as a pup and chew whatever he wanted, then nothing in your home is safe.
Of course, you have no way of knowing which you may have, so until she proves otherwise, you’ll need to assume that your new dog might chew anything she can get her teeth into. While you’re supervising and managing her behavior for housetraining purposes in her early days with you, keep an eagle eye out for indications of inappropriate chewing (while, of course, providing her with appropriate chew objects).
In relatively short order you should figure out if you’re home free on the chewing issue, or if you’ll need to completely overhaul her mouth behavior management and redirection. For a long-term chew-training protocol, see “Dogs and Puppies Chew for a Number of Reasons,” in the August 2007 issue.
Note: If chewing is accompanied by other undesirable behaviors such as general destruction, barking, and aversion to crating, consider separation or isolation anxiety as possibilities.
Jumping up – Remember, your dog’s jumping up has nothing to do with dominance. (See “De-bunking the “Alpha Dog” Theory,” in the December 2011 issue). She’s probably either trying to greet you, get you to pay attention to her, or perhaps seeking reassurance, if she’s stressed or frightened.
The answer to this training challenge is to make sure that no one reinforces her for jumping up. Make sure that every person who wants to greet the dog is prepared to turn his or her back and step away from her when she jumps.
Next, reinforce “sit” very generously, with high-value treats, to help this polite deference behavior become her default choice (her first behavior option – the one she chooses when she isn’t sure what to do) and make sure everyone gives her attention for sitting. (See “Train Your Dog to Greet People,” May 2008.) If she’s jumping up for reassurance, determine what is stressing her and make that stressor go away until you can help her become comfortable with it.
Pulling on Leash – Lots of dogs pull on leash. As annoying as it might be, don’t take it personally – and don’t blame dominance for this one, either! Dogs who pull just want to get where they want to go, and they want to get there faster than you do. If you want her to walk politely on leash, reinforce her generously when there’s no tension on the leash, and stop moving forward when the leash tightens.
If there are times when you know you won’t have time for the “stop and wait for loose leash” dance – for example, if you want her to jog with you – use a different kind of collar or harness that will let her know, “In this outfit you are allowed to pull.”
For more information about teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash, see “Good Dog Walking,” March 2007.
There Might Be More
There’s a good chance you will encounter other behaviors that we haven’t covered above. In every case, there is a solution to be found that can help your dog become the well-behaved companion you want her to be. You can read good books and search for answers online (and in the WDJ archives!).
Remember to look for positive solutions; you want your new dog to like you, trust you, and want to be with you. You may need to consult a qualified positive behavior professional to help you find answers. As you research the behavior and search for answers, keep these important reminders in your head at all times: Be gentle. Be clear. Be consistent. Be persistent. Be positive. Most of all, for your adopted dog’s sake, be her forever person.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Author of numerous books on positive dog training, she lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers.
Every so often, a little flame war will erupt in Whole Dog Journal’s Letters to the Editor, comment section on the Whole Dog Journal website, or Whole Dog Journal’s Facebook page. People will get mad. Other people will try to humor (or correct!) the angry ones. Some subscribers will cancel their subscriptions; others will pledge their support in the face of these tribulations and buy subscriptions for their friends.
I try to remain calm. The strong expression of every opinion seem to be a symptom that our feverish country is running these days, whether the topic is politics or dogs.
And the fact is, I appreciate the passion that our readers feel for dogs; I’m glad they care enough to get upset. You certainly can’t say that for many dog owners – like the ones who allow their dogs to breed indiscriminately, who think it’s stupid to buy anything but the cheapest dog food at Wal-Mart, and who wait a week before looking for their lost dog at their local shelter. In my impoverished, rural corner of this great state of California, I’m surrounded by many of these apathetic dog owners. It makes me appreciate the caring, concerned owners I know – and it makes me really appreciate those of you who are devoted enough to your dogs to seek out educational resources like WDJ. Thank you for your commitment to your canine companions.
Yes, I’m even thanking you, the person who wrote a contentious note (or post or email) about something in WDJ (or on our Facebook page) that rubbed you the wrong way. I respect your opinion.
I have a favor to ask, however: Let’s all be respectful of each other when expressing our opinions. The fact is, there is always more than one way to achieve anything. And what works for one person or dog might not work for the next. Conversely, what might send my dog running away from you in fear (say, a hearty two-handed chest thumping) might just get your dog psyched and ready to run an agility course.
We do express opinions here at WDJ; we get to take a stand on topics like the use of physical or emotional punishment (we’re against it); the inclusion of certain synthetic vitamin K supplements in dog food (we haven’t yet seen any compelling evidence to worry about it); or the practice of conducting titer tests in lieu of automatic revaccination (we’re strongly for this). We try to support our views with substantive evidence and input from experts we respect.
But are we always right, for you and your dog? We couldn’t possibly be. Nor could you be right about every other dog. We’d be interested in hearing your view, anyway.
So let’s refrain from insults or knee-jerk judgments, and politely consider each other’s opinions – keeping our dogs’ well-being foremost in our considerations.
The October and November 2011 issues of Whole Dog Journal provided in-depth discussion of canine Addison’s and Cushing’s diseases. The following information should help clarify other questions that may arise about the diagnosis of canine adrenal disorders.
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The relationships between adrenal cortisol and sex steroid production is complicated. In chronic illnesses, the body’s adrenal glands can become exhausted or fatigued. The adrenal glands may then respond by increasing the output of cortisol, and the intermediate and sex steroids. However, while the role of increased adrenal sex hormones, such as 17-hydroxyprogesterone and androstenedione, in promoting atypical Cushing’s disease is established, the role of increased estrogens, such as estradiol, in promoting SARDS (sudden acquired retinal degeneration syndrome) is scientifically unproven.
Part of this problem arises because of the documented differences between these sex steroid pathways in people and dogs. For example, in people, DHEA (dehydroxyepiandrosterone) activity is an important adrenal component in assessing body function and plays a role in obesity; it is frequently used as a supplement. By contrast, the normal levels of DHEA in dogs have not been established, and the potential benefit of DHEA supplements is unclear and may even be harmful.
Similarly, in people, estrogen assays include total estrogen as well as estrogen components, like beta-estradiol and estrone. In dogs, by contrast, the biologically important and regulatory estrogen is beta-estradiol. When the total estrogen concentration is measured in dog serum, it not only measures beta-estradiol but also detects all the metabolic breakdown products of this hormone, thereby leading to an apparent elevation in the total estrogen concentration, when it may not be truly functionally elevated. Thus, measuring total estrogen activity in dogs will likely give misleading results and lead to erroneous conclusions.
Likewise, measuring basal or resting cortisol activity in animals is misleading, because the cortisol is released from the adrenal gland continuously in pulsatile fashion over a 24-hour period. A single cortisol measurement is meaningless, regardless if it’s low, normal, or high, and is the reason that only dynamic tests of adrenal function (ACTH stimulation, LDDS suppression, and tests for the adrenal steroid intermediate hormones) accurately determine adrenal function.
-Adrenal exhaustion (also called adrenal fatigue) occurs when the adrenal gland (which produces cortisol in response to stress) has been over-stimulated and cannot function properly. Adrenal exhaustion is typically a transient condition and can result in impaired activity of the master glands such as the thyroid gland. Once the reason for the adrenal exhaustion is resolved, thyroid function should return to normal. In the meantime, however, nutritional supplements that offer thyroid support may be indicated and can be beneficial.
-Many physicians and veterinarians resist prescribing thyroid treatment in cases of adrenal exhaustion, because they are not technically treating a thyroid disorder, they are treating a temporary adrenal malfunction syndrome. To that, we say that if the patient shows marked improvement with thyroid hormone replacement and/or nutritional thyroid support, then why withhold appropriate and beneficial therapy? The fact remains that you are treating a thyroid responsive disease – and the patient is getting better !
Reliable Diagnostic Tests of Adrenal Function Because of the complexity of the adrenal axis and its regulation by the body’s master glands, the importance of relying on assays performed only by an established commercial or university-based veterinary diagnostic reference laboratory is paramount. These diagnostic laboratories all participate in the national VLA Quality Assurance Program or the similar CAP Quality Assurance testing to document the accuracy of their laboratory procedures.
For comprehensive adrenal function testing, one of the most respected panels is obtained from the Clinical Endocrinology Service at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville (the late Dr. Jack Oliver’s program): vet.utk.edu/diagnostic/endocrinology.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM Garden Grove, CA
I would like to bring readers’ attention to an excellent new book that dovetails nicely with my recent article (“Alpha, Schmalpha,” December 2011) about canine “dominance.”
Part Wild: One Woman’s Journey with a Creature Caught Between the Worlds of Dogs and Wolves is a compelling and scientifically accurate recounting of author Ceiridwen Terrill’s challenging experiences as the naïve owner of a wolf-hybrid.
An engaging and articulate writer, Terrill sends two strong messages: if you are thinking of getting a wolf-hybrid as a pet, or worse, breeding them – don’t. Just don’t. And, if you believe the dominance/alpha nonsense spouted by many breeders (of hybrids and otherwise), some dog trainers, and an occasional television celebrity, please open your mind and learn more about the real science of behavior.
Terrill, an associate professor of environmental journalism and science writing at Concordia University in Portland, Oregon, weaves her science skillfully and painlessly throughout the book. I couldn’t put it down; I’ve recommended it on my Facebook page and all my training lists. If I had read it before writing “Alpha, Schmalpha” for WDJ, Terrill and Part Wild would have rated a very prominent mention in the article. Read it yourself. Then share it with any and all of your dog-owning friends who still buy into the flawed, archaic and obsolete dominance theory garbage and see if they don’t become converts.
From a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) perspective, any medical condition is a symptom of an underlying disharmony within the body. This imbalance can be viewed through the yin and yang model, the base of TCM theory. Both exist within the body at all times. Yin represents the concepts of cooling, fluids, quietness, and passive behavior. Yang represents the concepts of heat, inflammation, outward energy, and aggressive behavior. Healthy animals have a balance between the two; any imbalance is regarded as a disease.
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Panting can thus be regarded as an imbalance between the yin (the cooling aspect of the body) and the yang (the warming part). TCM attempts to balance the entire system and tailor treatments to individual patients based on constitution, physical findings, and tongue and pulse diagnosis.
Excessive panting might have a dozen or more different treatment plans depending on the primary cause encompassing a medical condition. For example, a dog with a very bright pink tongue but weak pulses is likely yin deficient. If the tongue is red and pulse surging, the dog is likely to be considered as having excess heat. Both conditions will likely be accompanied by excess panting, but would be treated differently with herbs, stimulation of certain acupuncture points, and food therapy.
I’m awakened by the exhalation of my Border Collie’s warm breath on my face: heh-heh-heh. I slowly open one eye and focus on the nose just inches from my own. I may be anthropomorphizing, but I suspect he’s grinning. There it is again – a breathy heh-heh-heh. Wait a minute! Is he just panting or is he laughing at me?
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Given the way dogs are designed, panting is a very normal bodily function. Dogs don’t have sweat glands throughout their body to expel heat like humans do. The only sweat glands they have are located on the pads of their paws. So what else can this canine body do to cool itself down? Pant.
Panting is the action of opening the mouth, sticking out the tongue, and rapidly, rhythmically breathing through the mouth. It’s a dog’s personal cooling system. This mode of quick breathing increases the air intake to the mucous membranes of the mouth and upper respiratory tract, causing evaporation, which in turn helps to reduce body temperature and cool the dog.
When resting, dogs take between 10 and 34 breaths a minute, depending on their size. Panting increases when the environment is warm and during and after exercise. Familiarize yourself with your dog’s everyday breathing and panting style so you’ll be aware of any changes in the pattern. There are times when this change can be cause for concern or require emergency care. Some of the reasons or situations when a dog’s panting may indicate he’s in trouble include:
It’s Too Hot! Heatstroke can occur in any environment, but is more likely to happen during warm or hot weather, when your dog is becoming over extended during exercise, or if left in a closed car where temperatures can quickly become deadly. Heatstroke (hyperthermia) symptoms include excessive panting, deep red tongue and gums, glassy eyes, weakness, fast heart rate, drooling, seizures, nausea and/or vomiting, diarrhea, and a body temperature over 104˚ F. This is a medical emergency; a quick response can save his life.
Pugs and Bulldogs and Pekingese, oh my! Brachycephalic breeds in particular are more prone to heatstroke and excessive panting due to their facial structure (and they may snore loudly!). This facial structure, comprised of a compressed upper jaw and a short muzzle with abnormally small nasal passages, a distorted larynx and narrow windpipe, makes it difficult for a brachycephalic dog to inhale sufficient amounts of air through his nose; he must often resort to open-mouth breathing.
Dogs with this type anatomy may tend to avoid strenuous exercise and can become short of breath following any mild exertion, excitement, or stress. They tend to be less tolerant of heat as they often can’t pant enough to regulate their body temperature and thus can require extra careful monitoring when exercising or in warm/hot environments.
Hide Pain I Will As we know, dogs are Jedi masters at hiding pain. But panting can give them away. Be aware that panting is usually only one of a number of symptoms of pain; look for other signs such as restlessness, enlarged pupils, anxiety, reluctance to lie down, and licking or biting at a particular site.
Panting can also be a symptom of many diseases and chronic illnesses. The key is to note whether there is a change in your dog’s panting behavior and, if needed, take your dog to your veterinarian for diagnosis. Panting as a symptom is pervasive throughout a number of conditions; listed below are some of the more frequently seen ailments that could have associated panting.
Heart of the Matter Cardiovascular problems such as cardiomyopathy, congestive heart failure, heart murmurs, heartworms, hypertension (high blood pressure, often a secondary issue caused by another disease), pulmonary thromboembolism (blockage of a vessel by material carried through the blood stream), and congenital heart abnormalities all list aberrant panting as a symptom. With these diseases, dogs can show some of the same symptoms that people do; so watch for these other symptoms, which include breathing difficulties, reduced exercise tolerance, lethargy, and coughing spells (sometimes worse at night).
As the Blood Flows Atypical panting can also be an indictor of hematological problems that reduce the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood. This includes such ailments as hypercapnia, a condition caused by excess carbon dioxide in the blood (which is often secondary to kidney disease, diarrhea, shock, or diabetes mellitus), as well as with anemia and carbon monoxide poisoning.
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It’s Hormonal Diseases of the endocrine system often result in heavy unnatural panting. For example, hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s Disease) occurs when the dog’s adrenal glands produce too much cortisol. Other symptoms of this disease can include excessive hunger and thirst, hair loss, and a pot-bellied appearance. The associated panting can occur for a number of reasons: an enlarged liver can put pressure on the diaphragm and thereby limit the ability of the lungs to fully expand; the excessive cortisol stimulates panting; pulmonary thromboembolism is a complication not infrequently seen with Cushing’s and it can cause breathing irregularities. Other endocrine abnormalities resulting in panting include pheochromocytoma, a tumor of the adrenal gland that causes too much adrenalin to be produced, and hypothyroidism (deficiency of thyroid hormone). Conversely, the treatment of hypothyroidism – thyroxine supplementation – can also cause panting if excessively medicated.
Respiratory Problems Panting is part of the respiratory system so it comes as no surprise that disorders in this system can lead to heavy breathing or panting. Your veterinarian may want to check for upper respiratory problems such as laryngeal paralysis or dysfunction, collapsing/collapsed trachea, nasal or throat growths, pneumonia, lung tumors, infections, or complications that can lead to blockage of the nasal passages.
Lower respiratory tract disorders may not allow for sufficient gas exchange at the level of the lung and result in panting in an attempt to increase the oxygen flow. There are many diseases of the chest cavity that may not allow the lungs to expand properly: pneumothorax (air in the chest), pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs), pleural effusion (fluid in the chest cavity), mediastinal masses (growths in the chest), and diaphragmatric hernias (displacement of the abdominal contents of the chest cavity), cancer, lung lobe torsion, emphysema, and asthma.
It’s In the Nerves The brain and neurological system are responsible for transmitting the necessary signals for bodily function, so any brain tumors or head trauma may affect the respiratory center.
Any conditions that cause dysfunction of the muscles of respiration may contribute to panting. These include myasthenia gravis (a neuromuscular disease caused by an inability of certain nerve receptors to function properly); nerve disorders associated with diabetes mellitus (in which the pancreas doesn’t produce enough insulin which is required for the body to efficiently process sugars, fats, and proteins); and laryngeal paralysis associated with hypothyroidism. Seizures and high body temperatures can stimulate the respiratory system and result in abnormal panting.
Dogs Have Feelings Too Many behavioral and emotional issues have physical manifestations. Take fear, for example: dogs afraid of thunderstorms usually pant heavily, often walking with a crouch seeking places to hide. Dogs can also have panic attacks; these acute episodes of intense anxiety are frequently accompanied by severe panting, shaking, and trembling with a rapid heart and respiratory rate and dilated pupils.
Panting is often associated with cognitive dysfunction, the mental deterioration that sometimes occurs as dogs age. You may find that in addition to panting, other symptoms may include problems with recognizing familiar places or people; spatial disorientation; confusion; issues with the sleep/wake cycle; inappropriate or excessive vocalization; non-productive repetitive behaviors such as circling, pacing, and licking; signs of apathy; irritability; and a reduction in social interaction. Panting is also found to accompany dysphoria (general mood of depression, restlessness, and anxiety).
Female Trouble Anecdotal accounts suggest that female dogs pant more than males, but with the following exceptions, there isn’t good evidence for this. Of course, during pregnancy, female dogs may pant more than usual as the uterus enlarges, and her blood volume and metabolic demands increase. Females will also pant while giving birth and may continue to do so for a few weeks after due to the contractions of the uterus that stimulate lactation (milk production). Panting can be associated with eclampsia, commonly known as milk fever, a low blood calcium level that can develop in the weeks after giving birth (usually due to an underactive thyroid gland).
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It’s the Drugs, Man Certain medications can produce panting as a side effect, including steroids such as prednisone, benzodiazepines (Diazepam/valium), opiods for pain management such as Fentanyl and Tramadol, and excess thyroxine supplementation (thyroid medication).
Miscellaneous Causes At risk of sounding like even the kitchen sink can cause panting, we’ll lump the rest of the causes together. Obesity can lend itself to panting, as overweight dogs may have a tendency to overheat or the extra weight may put pressure on internal organs. Dogs may pant in order to get sufficient oxygen into their systems at high altitude. Allergies, irritation, and infection can all lead to increased panting and related wheezy noisy breathing. A body temperature of over 102.5˚ F. in dogs is usually considered to be a fever (normal being 100.5 to 102.5˚ F.); fever is an indication of infection and the raised internal body temperature can cause panting.
Cause for immediate concern is the consumption of toxic substances which can trigger heavy panting; be aware of what your dog may have ingested so that veterinary treatment can be sought if necessary. Advanced age is a factor; older dogs seem to pant more than younger dogs.
Bringing it all Back Home Why does your dog pant? Be aware of the transient emotional triggers such as fear, stress, excitement, and anxiety. But if you are familiar with your dog’s exhalation style, and you notice a sudden or extreme change in the intensity and frequency of his panting, the panting is constant and intense, the tongue or/or gums appear blue or white, or you think your dog is in pain, see your veterinarian immediately.
Heh-Heh-Heh . . . No, It Isn’t All Anthropomorphism Sometimes dogs just pant. It could be idiopathic. Or maybe they are laughing.
Research done by Patricia Simonet at Sierra Nevada College looked at the vocalizations that dogs produce interacting socially. These breathy exhalation bursts, described as huh-huh-huh sounds, were recorded and examined using spectrograph analysis.
Simonet found that these specific panting sounds have a broader range of frequencies than the regular pant. Her playback experiments in 2005 found that recordings of these vocalizations, deemed dog laughter, would reduce stress related behavior in shelter dogs, such as barking, lunging, cage-biting, tail chasing, and cowering; it also appeared to have a calming effect with an increase in pro-social behaviors.
Like many of us who want to communicate better with our dogs, Simonet tried imitating the sound herself and found it to have a positive effect on dogs hearing it. If you want to try to imitate the sound, try a breathy exhalation with no actual voicing. Try different approaches to see if your dog will respond.
I’m pretty sure my Border Collie was laughing at me while I slept. It was a breathy exhalation, a quick burst of panting. While your dogs may not laugh with you, they may laugh at you. Either way, laughter can induce and is a sign of joy. So go laugh with your dog.
Author Barbara Dobbins is a dog trainer on hiatus. Her previous article in WDJ was “Chemo Can Be Kind,” in the October issue.
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