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Why Do Dogs Suck on Blankets?

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Dogs that suck on, chew, or lick blankets may be seeking a sense of security.
While many dog who begin sucking on blankets as puppies grow out of the behavior, some continue into adulthood. Credit: smrm1977 | Getty Images

There are some things our dogs do that are a complete mystery to many of us, especially when it’s a behavior we’ve never seen before. To me, one of the strangest is blanket-sucking (or blanket-chewing, depending upon the dog). In all the dogs I’ve had and known, I’ve never seen this behavior before so from my perspective, it’s totally inexplicable.

And yet, there is an explanation. Rather, several explanations.

What IS This Sucking Behavior?

We’ve all seen human babies sucking on pacifiers, their thumbs, or even on blankets and child experts tell us that this kind of instinctive sucking calms babies and makes them feel more secure. The same is likely true for puppies, who are born with an innate need to suckle and knead. Even after the mother dog has long since stopped producing milk, some pups will attempt to suckle, perhaps as a way to soothe themselves.

In addition, puppies will often look to something similar to their mother’s soft skin and fur for comfort: something like a supple, velvety stuffed toy or blanket.  Most of the time, a puppy will grow out of this behavior, but what happens if it doesn’t? What happens if your adult dog continues to knead her old threadbare blanket or suck on her ancient stuffed hippopotamus? Should you be worried that you’ve inadvertently created an canine psychoneurotic?

Is Blanket Sucking a Harmless Behavior?

The answer in most cases, there’s nothing inherently wrong with an adult dog who is still mouthing and kneading her blanket or toy.  We’ve all had dogs that choose one particular stuffed toy as their inseparable companion: years ago, my dog Casey claimed a stuffed penguin that he carried around everywhere, even to the construction site of the house I was building where it got run over by a tractor, dropped in a culvert, smeared with concrete, and buried in three feet of dirt . . . yet even then, even when it was totally dilapidated, he refused to give it up.

Gwen Bailey, author of more than a dozen books on dog behavior and member of the U.K.’s Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, says this kind of “object-sucking” is usually quite harmless, the canine equivalent of a toddler who inexplicably latches onto a favorite “blankie” and carries it everywhere. She explains that while this behavior in adult dogs isn’t terribly common, it’s not deviant by any stretch of the imagination; it’s also not breed-specific, so you’re just as likely to see it in a Great Dane as in a Dachshund.

If, however, your dog’s blanket- or toy-sucking behavior is persistent and unremitting, and you’re unable to distract him from it, the behavior may have become compulsive. If you’re concerned about this possibility, talk with your veterinarian about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating compulsive behavior.

There is one other situation where a caretaker needs to be concerned: so-called “flank-sucking,” which is especially prevalent in Doberman Pinschers and Weimaraners.  Flank-sucking—when a dog repetitively sucks or holds in his mouth a piece of its own flank skin–is a type of canine compulsive disorder that can cause physical injury to the dog’s skin, and calls for veterinary intervention.

And Then There’s Chewing

Some dogs don’t suck on their blankets, they chew them. Constantly. Until the blanket is, as the Coroner sings in the Wizard of Oz, not only “merely dead, but really most sincerely dead.”  Again, this isn’t necessarily harmful, unless your dog is actually eating the blanket or toy. In that case, you need to find a way to keep him away from those objects, and provide an alternative like a stuffed Kong, an all-natural edible dog chew, or dental bones. Remember, though, that just because a dog treat may be edible, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe, making supervision a must. For instance, if your dog breaks off a large chunk of a chew and swallows it, there’s a risk of him either choking or developing an obstruction.

As long as your dog is simply chewing and not devouring, there’s no need to worry, but it’s important to teach her what is and isn’t appropriate to chew on. If she’s a blanket-chewer, restrict her to her own blanket, not the one on your or your child’s bed. The same is true with toys versus things like shoes or clothes. If the chewing turns destructive—you come home to a couch that’s in tatters, or your down pillow looks like a deflated balloon—then you have an entirely different problem on your hands. Adult dogs can engage in destructive chewing for a variety of reasons, including separation anxiety, boredom, anxiety, or as a coping mechanism. Again, you need to speak to a behaviorist to get to the root of the problem and find a solution.

What About Licking?

Some dogs are inveterate lickers. They don’t suck their blankets, they don’t chew their blankets, they simply lick them. Constantly.

It’s important to remember that dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Often, they lick objects to simply understand and gather information about them. At the same time, licking blankets, toys, and their beds can be just as comforting and soothing to your dog as sucking. It also releases endorphins—those “feel-good” hormones—that help them relax and feel comfortable.

But like excessive chewing, dogs can also engage in nonstop licking out of pure boredom, which can easily lead to obsession. Any behavior that continues for a length of time should be discussed with your veterinarian, as there could be an underlying medical condition that needs to be addressed.

In the end, whether your dog is sucking her blanket, kneading it, chewing on it, or licking it, chances are there’s nothing wrong—she’s just trying to make herself feel good!

How to Get Sap Out of Dog Fur

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Getting sap out of dog fur can prevent matting and other ailments.
In addition to its potential for matting coats, tree sap can cause skin irritation, hot spots, and allergic reactions in dogs. Credit: Oline Aukrust | Getty Images

Tree sap is called the life blood of trees because it transports nutrients between roots and branches. Pine trees and some other conifers release pitch that collects on their bark year-round while other sap-extruding trees are sticky in spring and summer. Dogs encounter tree sap when brushing against trees or when stepping on pitch that has fallen from broken branches.

As a do-it-yourself project, pitch removal requires time and patience, so take an objective look at the situation. Is there a small amount of pitch in your dog’s hair? Or is there a lot? Is your pup able to sit or lie still for half an hour or more? Do you enjoy grooming your dog? If the time isn’t right, if there are large, tangled, glued-together patches of fur, or if there’s pitch on your dog’s face—especially near the eyes or ears—consider calling a groomer or your veterinarian for help.

What Not to Use

Although pitch-dissolving products work well on automobiles, concrete, asphalt, and other surfaces, industrial cleaners can be toxic to dogs. For pet use, avoid astringent solvents, chemical detergents, petroleum products, nail polish remover, paint thinner, turpentine, and alcohol.

Why Sap or Pitch Can Be Dangerous

Some tree saps are toxic if ingested, such as sap from certain pines. The symptoms of sap poisoning include drooling, loss of appetite, lethargy, and vomiting. Ingested sap can cause gastrointestinal problems even if the tree isn’t toxic, and when attached to a dog’s fur, any sap can lead to itching and inflammation.

Because sap can irritate the skin, dogs often scratch and lick affected areas. Sticky sap adhering to a dog’s paws can cause discomfort and potential injury. In some cases, sap causes respiratory problems in dogs. Sap from pines and other conifers contain volatile organic compounds that can irritate the respiratory tract. The main problem for most dogs is that if left untreated, tree sap can lead to skin irritation, hot spots, allergic reactions, and rashes.

The most obvious problem with tree sap in a dog’s coat is that it causes matting and tangling. If not removed promptly, sap can harden, create pain or discomfort, trap environmental debris in the coat, and trigger skin infections.

What to Use

If your pitch-removal project seems do-able, assemble these basic ingredients:

  • a hair dryer
  • vegetable oil
  • a rubber-tipped bath brush, slicker brush, or wide-toothed comb
  • small, sharp scissors
  • towels
  • shampoo
  • treats
  1. Start by setting your hair dryer to low heat to soften hardening pitch. Hard sap is difficult to remove, so this step helps preserve your dog’s coat. Test the dryer setting on your arm to be sure it isn’t too hot, keep the dryer a safe distance from your dog’s skin, and use a gentle speed. Your goal is to soften the pitch and make it flexible without harming your dog.
  2. Apply oil to the softened tree sap, which will help you separate it from your dog’s hair. This step can be messy, so have your dog sit or lie in a crate or on an old towel. Recommended oils for sap removal include jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, and other vegetable oils. Peanut butter (xylitol-free and smooth rather than crunchy) is often recommended, but most dogs want to lick it off, so that can be a complication. The oil needs time to interact with the sap, so keep your dog still while you wait. Reward your dog with treats, praise, or a favorite toy during this important step.
  3. Gently massage, brush, or comb the oiled sap. Use your fingers to work the oil into softened sap by massaging the affected area, rubbing the oiled hair with a scrubbing motion to help separate hair strands. This can take a while. Gently brush the coat with a bath brush, slicker brush, or wide-toothed comb to help the strands separate, but don’t pull or tug glued-together hairs. It may take more than one heat-oil-massage treatment to break the sap down so you can remove it.
  4. If necessary, use scissors. Kitchen or poultry shears are not appropriate for sticky mat removal. Instead, use small, sharp scissors to remove tiny sections at a time. Thinning shears, used by professional groomers, make partial cuts that remove hair without creating obvious gaps in the coat. You can achieve a similar effect by focusing on small areas and teasing them apart with your comb and occasional scissoring. Skip this step if the pitch is close to your dog’s skin in order to prevent accidental cuts that might become infected.
  5. Is there pitch on your dog’s paws? Tree sap that sticks to your dog’s paw pads can irritate the skin and cause obsessive licking and chewing. Remove sap that’s caught on or between paw pads as soon as you notice it. If massaging the paws with oil doesn’t remove the sap, call your veterinarian or groomer because sticky paws will continue to collect dust, gravel, plant debris, and other potential irritants that can lead to painful limping or skin infections.
  6. Time for a bath. After successfully removing tree sap, prepare a bath to remove excess oil and tree sap residue. Use a mild shampoo and work it into your dog’s coat, checking to be sure all traces of the sticky sap have disappeared. Rinse well to remove all traces of soap or shampoo. Dry the coat well with towels, your blow dryer, or a warm outdoor breeze. When dry or almost dry, brush the coat well. For more, see Tips for Giving a Dog a Bath at Home and How to Bathe Your Dog.
  7. Follow up with daily brushings or at least daily inspections, checking for new sap accumulations. Avoid sap-producing trees, and if your dog has recently stepped on tree sap, use dog booties or paw wax to prevent future exposures. Regular grooming and frequent body checks will help you catch and repair pitch problems before they become serious.

Whoa! Stop Pulling

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
A Jack Russel terrier determinedly pulls on a leash.

When I was about 5 years old, my family moved from the suburbs to a home in the country, and a couple years later, my parents bought my 13-year-old sister a horse—despite knowing nothing about horses themselves. Dusty was fast, spirited, and loved to run. He was also not much more than just lightly trained, and he became locally famous (and infamous in my extended family of dozens of visiting “city cousins”) for running away with his novice riders.

My sister was able to ride Dusty successfully, but it took me years to be able to ride him away from our property without walking home on my own two feet; at some point in every ride, he’d get impatient with my fearful, tight grip on his reins and say, “To heck with this, I’m headed home!” He’d shove his head down (against the pain of the bit in his mouth) and just take off running, headed for home. Only the very best riders could manage to stay on him during his high-speed dashes through orchards and across roads back to our barn.

Now, if you were a confident, balanced rider, Dusty was the most fun horse in the world to ride. He’d go anywhere you pointed him, could turn or spin on a dime, and was super fast; he loved to run and won many a match race against the larger horses owned by other kids in our rural farming community. But riding him successfully was all about keeping the reins loose and letting him run occasionally; if you held the reins in your hands with a frightened death grip and tried to keep him at a walk or trot the whole ride, pretty soon he’d (figuratively) say, “Nope! I’m out of here!” and take off into a run, headed for home.

Eventually, over the course of five or six years, I learned to stick like a bur on Dusty’s back, whether he was saddled or I was riding bareback, no matter how fast he ran. And I learned how to win races: By tightening the reins a little and yelling in a panicked, high voice, “Whoa Dusty! Whoa! Whoa!!!” When he heard those magic words, he’d put his ears back and run like the wind. Fifty years later I still laugh out loud at the memory of what we kid riders inadvertently taught our little spitfire racehorse: that he could run the fastest when he heard those words.

What’s this got to do with dogs?

When I see someone whose dog is pulling hard against a tight leash, I often think to myself, “Whoa Dusty, whoa!” Sometimes, the dog and their person have both become habituated to a nearly constant battle of wills and strength, resulting in walks that are not fun for either one. And while the owner will fixate on the dog’s pulling, identifying this as the major problem in the dog’s training, the fact is, the owner is pulling even harder! It’s necessary, they will say, to keep the dog from doing whatever it is that the dog wants to do—which is anything but being with the owner!

Most dog owners in this situation buy a pinch or shock collar or a harness that tightens or gives them a mechanical advantage in the pulling competition—or they hire a trainer who takes this tack with their dog. The dog is forced to comply, but looks unhappy and is still outwardly focused, not paying any attention to his handler. The owners in this common scenario may have “won” the battle but they lose the war, because walking the dog requires them to inflict pain on the tuned-out dog—no fun for either dog or handler.

The fix for this is not simple; it generally requires a number of changes to how the owner handles the dog. A good trainer will teach the owner how to get, reward, and keep their dog’s attention and cooperation. If the dog is reactive to other dogs, the trainer can teach the owner how to teach the dog how to disengage his attention from them and be rewarded for, instead, staying connected to his handler. Most owners need to be taught to let the dog have some moments of sheer doggie enjoyment from the walk in exchange for their cooperation. And above all, a good trainer will bring the owner’s attention to how she handles the leash and get her to stop pulling!

In retrospect, I’m glad that my parents didn’t have money to throw at the problem of our runaway horse; they never hired an abusive trainer or bought harsher bits for Dusty’s bridle, to force him through pain into compliance with a slow ride. My sister (and eventually I, too) had to figure out on our own how to ride Dusty in a way that suited him—by not pulling on the reins constantly, and by giving him some opportunities to have the kind of fun he wanted in an outing. The result is that we no longer got left in Dusty’s dust as he ran home.

How To Puppy Proof Your House

By
Kate O'Connor
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1
Puppy proofing your house can help to save shoes, drapes, and other important items.
Shoes, plants, children’s toys, and electrical cords are among the many things that will need to be accounted for when puppy proofing your house. Credit: EllenMoran | Getty Images

It never ceases to amaze me just how much stuff puppies can get into in even the most thoroughly puppy-proofed environments. Take your eyes off of a young dog for a moment, and she’ll have found the screw to the dishwasher that went missing six months before she arrived (ask me how I know…). Even after several decades of cohabitating with canines, every time I bring a new dog home, I learn something about how to better puppy proof my house.

First, it’s worth noting that puppy proofing is something of a moving target. Your puppy’s interests and ability to reach things will change as he grows. Ideally, you’ll also be balancing out his trouble-finding tendencies by teaching him good house manners, providing him with acceptable things to chew on, and training cues such as ‘leave it’.

How to Puppy Proof Your House

Keeping your puppy safe—and household destruction to a minimum—starts before the puppy joins the family. Prior to his arrival, you will need to take a close look at the areas of your house your puppy will have access to and remove as many potential problems as possible. When assessing a space for puppy-friendliness, I often sit or lay down on the floor to better spot anything that might appear interesting from a dog’s eye level. Among the things I watch for are:

  • Electrical cords and outlets: Beyond the obvious potential for electrocution, puppies can pull heavy objects—such as the television—down on themselves by tugging on electrical cords. Get outlet covers to protect any unused outlets from moist puppy noses and tie up or cover cords. You’ll also want to keep the puppy away from rooms where cords can’t be adequately protected.
  • Plants: Many common household plants are poisonous to dogs. Even for the varieties that aren’t toxic, puppy teeth can make short work of a houseplant. It’s best to make sure any indoor plants are out of reach and that any dead leaves won’t fall somewhere the puppy can get to them.
  • Cleaning products and other chemicals: Household cleaning products are often toxic to dogs. Make sure cleaners and other chemicals are out of reach—preferably in a drawer, cabinet, or closeable container the puppy won’t have access to. It’s rare, but some puppies do teach themselves how to open cabinet doors (I’ve had one.). If you see your puppy pawing at or mouthing doorknobs, it may be time to install child safety locks on cabinet doors and drawers.
  • Shoes and clothing: Is there anything more iconic than a puppy chewing a shoe? Sadly, there’s more than an ounce of reality in that image. Make sure shoes—along with socks, hats, and any other loose clothing—are kept out of reach of curious puppies.
  • Stairs: Like human toddlers, puppies take awhile to develop the coordination and strength necessary for safely going up and down stairs. Ensure the puppy doesn’t have access to stairs until he and you are ready. Baby gates are an inexpensive and useful tool for keeping young dogs away from stairs and out of rooms that might not be safe for them.
  • Wicker, wood, and furniture: While it’s rarely worth moving the furniture around when puppy proofing, ask yourself if there are any pieces you will be upset about having teeth marks in. Move those to somewhere the puppy won’t have access to or don’t let the puppy in the same room without supervision. I’ve also found that anything made of wicker can be particularly appealing to puppies.
  • Toys and small objects: Children’s toys, knickknacks, and other small objects can be choking hazards for puppies or, if swallowed, may lead to potentially deadly intestinal blockages. Anything that falls into this category should be removed from areas where your puppy will be spending time.
  • Food: If it is food—or might be mistaken for food—chances are good that your puppy will try to eat it. Store dry goods out of reach and make sure pantry and cupboard doors shut firmly. If necessary, invest in child safety locks.
  • Trashcans: Trashcans are often a source of exciting, smelly, off-limits things. Don’t fool yourself into believing that a trashcan with a lid is the answer. Many determined puppies develop strategies for opening lids—or knocking over bins—to get what they want. Invest in a trashcan with a locking lid or move trashcans to a spot the puppy can’t get to.
  • Books: I’ve had several puppies who liked to take books off of bookshelves for use as chew toys. If your puppy shows an inclination toward exploring shelves, you may need to clear off any shelf he can reach, revoke his access to rooms with a lot of stuff on the shelves until he is more mature and better trained, or cover lower shelves with something like plywood so he can’t get to them.
  • Valuables: Like kids’ toys, small items with interesting textures, such as jewelry and eyeglasses, are a favorite for many puppies. That goes double if it is something you wear regularly enough that it smells like you. Make sure these things are stored somewhere out of reach and start reminding yourself early not to casually set your glasses down on the coffee table.

Other Considerations

I have learned the hard way that “high up” doesn’t necessarily mean “safe from the puppy.” When it comes to things on countertops, assume your puppy will attempt to investigate any surface he can reach. During a growth spurt, especially for a large breed youngster, that level can get higher quickly. Some puppies, even very young, very tiny ones, can climb quite high if the idea strikes them. Keep a close eye to see if you need to clear the countertops of anything dangerous or important to you (keys, coins, jewelry, paperwork, etc.).

Once you are done securing all of the spaces your puppy will have access to, ask yourself what might happen if he slips past someone and gets into a room where he’s not allowed. Is there anything immediately hazardous—such as chemicals—that he could grab before you can get to him? Also, is there anything of value that he might damage in a burst of puppy enthusiasm at finding a new place to play? It’s best to assume the worst and do some basic puppy proofing even in rooms you aren’t planning on letting him visit until he’s had some training.

While separate from puppy proofing, there are two things I do with my new puppies that go a long way toward keeping them safe in the house until they’re well-trained enough to be trustworthy. The first is crate training. Teaching a puppy to be comfortable in a crate means there is always a safe spot she can go when I can’t keep both eyes on her. Second, I often use a leash or tether to keep my new puppies close to me. This gives the puppy some freedom but doesn’t let her get so far away that I can’t see what she’s doing.

For more tips on how to prepare for a new puppy, see “What to Know as a First Time Dog Owner.”

Puppy Proofing the Yard

When you are in the process of puppy proofing your house, don’t forget about the yard. While you should always supervise young puppies outside, it’s important to do a thorough check of any outdoor area they will have access to in order to make sure it’s safe. Things to remove include:

  • Poisonous plants
  • Chemicals (including pesticides/herbicides used in lawn care)
  • Swallow-able rocks, sticks, and other small items
  • Gaps in fencing
  • Insect nests (hornets, bees, ants, etc.)
  • Standing water
  • Access to swimming pools

Homemade Flea Shampoo for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
A homemade flea shampoo for dogs can be an effective treatment.
You likely already have the ingredients you need to put together a good homemade flea shampoo for dogs. Credit: Manu Vega | Getty Images

A single flea on your dog may not look like an infestation, but it could become one soon. The fastest way to remove fleas from your dog is with a bath, and you probably already have what you need to put together a homemade flea shampoo.

The basic ingredient in any shampoo is soap, and you can use anything from a liquid dish soap (look for sensitive-skin formulas) to baby shampoo or a castile soap containing olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, or other moisturizing oils. These limited-ingredient, chemical-free, gentle lathering soaps will release fleas, flea eggs, larvae, and flea dirt from your dog’s hair without irritating his skin. Fleas cannot float in soapy water, so they drown when the surfactants in soap immobilize them.

One popular addition to homemade flea shampoo for dogs is white or apple cider vinegar, but while it helps relieve itchy skin, vinegar does not kill adult fleas, flea eggs, or flea larvae and it isn’t an effective flea repellent. Consider vinegar an optional ingredient that may help relieve itching and improve your dog’s coat.

Does Your Dog Have Fleas?

If you think your dog might have fleas but you aren’t sure, do a simple test with a flea comb and a damp paper towel. Brush your dog’s dry coat with a flea comb, which has narrow teeth that capture loose hair and debris that’s caught in the hair. Remove loose hair on the damp paper towel and look for small black specks. If they turn rusty red on the white paper towel, they are flea droppings containing your dog’s blood. If you see live fleas in the loose hair you comb, simply pull the hair off the comb in a plastic zipper bag and seal it closed.

Oatmeal, aloe vera, and vegetable glycerin are additional skin-soothing ingredients that help if flea bites leave your dog scratching. Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) can be added to shampoo to help neutralize unpleasant odors and soothe the skin.

Several aromatherapy essential oils repel or help kill fleas. The essential oils of lavender, peppermint, cedar, lemongrass, and eucalyptus have this effect and are safe to add in small amounts

Building a Recipe

Start with 2 cups of warm water.

Add 1 cup of nontoxic liquid soap.

This is your flea shampoo’s foundation. Even with no other ingredients, this blend can wash away fleas, their eggs, and the droppings fleas leave behind.

Optional Ingredients

If desired, add any of the following to your basic shampoo:

  • 1/2 cup white or apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 cup vegetable glycerine
  • 1/4 cup aloe vera gel
  • 1/2 cup finely ground oatmeal
  • 1/4 cup baking soda
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 4 drops essential oil

Start with just one or two optional ingredients, mix well, and bathe your dog. With such simple, safe ingredients, it isn’t necessary to wear protective gloves. Experiment with other combinations for future baths until you find a favorite blend. Your ideal consistency is thin rather than thick, so dilute the mixture with extra water if needed. Sudsy foaming isn’t required; what’s important is that the mixture reaches all parts of your dog. Be sure to keep the shampoo from getting into your dog’s eyes, ears, nose, or mouth.

Bathing Your Dog

As described in How to Bathe Your Dog and Tips for Giving a Dog a Bath at Home, organize towels, shampoo, and other equipment, then:

  1. Brush your dog with a dry brush to remove tangles.
  2. Wet your dog to the skin.
  3. Apply shampoo, starting at the neck, and cover the entire body.
  4. Work the soap into your dog’s hair with your fingers or with a rubber or silicone bath brush.
  5. Leave the shampoo on your dog for 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing.

This last step is important for killing fleas, and you can make it more comfortable for your dog by gently massaging her coat while waiting. Fleas do their best to escape, so be ready to rinse and remove adult fleas as they climb onto your dog’s head or onto you. Rinse thoroughly, then towel your dog. If desired, dry with a blow dryer set on low heat. Finish by brushing your dog’s hair while it’s still slightly damp.

Optional: Add a Rosemary Rinse

Because the herb rosemary repels fleas and helps improve the condition of a dog’s coat, rosemary tea is an appropriate final rinse after bathing. To brew it, place 2 cups of loosely packed fresh rosemary in 3-quart (or larger) saucepan. If you don’t have fresh rosemary, substitute 1/2 cup dried rosemary sold as a culinary herb. Add 2 quarts of water to the pan, cover it, and bring the pan to a boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer the rosemary for an hour, then let the covered pan cool to room temperature. Strain stems and leaves by pouring the tea through cheesecloth or a wire mesh strainer. Apply the tea full-strength to your dog’s wet coat after bathing, working it well into your dog’s skin, especially around the base of the tail, under armpits, and around the neck. Distribute the tea evenly with a bath brush or your fingers, then let it air-dry. The tea can also be sprayed onto your dog’s dry coat between baths and worked in with your fingers or a brush. Rosemary tea can be refrigerated for up to one week.

Apply a Tonic Skin Lotion

In his book Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, holistic veterinarian Richard Pitcairn, DVM, recommends a treatment from animal herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy, who created a skin tonic for severe flea infestations and the skin discomforts they cause. To make it, thinly slice two whole lemons, including the peel. Place the slices in a quart jar and cover them with at least 2 cups of boiling water. Let the jar stand in a warm place or in direct sun for two days. For a stronger lotion, add an additional lemon, wait another two days, and squeeze the lemons or shake well to release all of the juice and the skins’ essential oils. Apply the lotion to your dog’s skin with a sponge or washcloth, work it in well, and let it air-dry. Repeat the application daily as needed. As Dr. Pitcairn explains, lemon lotion “is a source of natural flea-killing substances such as d-limonene and other healing ingredients.”

Introducing Neem Oil

Neem oil is pressed from seeds and fruit of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica), which grows in India, where it has been used medicinally for centuries because of its antibacterial, antiseptic, and antifungal properties. As a bonus, it kills or repels biting insects like fleas, mites, and mosquitoes. When selecting a neem oil for use on your dog, choose a pressed rather than extracted oil. To 1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) shampoo add 1 teaspoon neem oil and follow the bathing instructions above.

Check the Environment

If your dog has fleas, be sure to treat the areas where she spends time. These areas should be thoroughly cleaned, cleared, or vacuumed, and her bedding should be washed.

Between-Bath Maintenance

Between baths check your dog’s dry coat for flea dirt. A flea comb can remove up to 60% of the flea eggs on a dog along with flea larvae, so if your dog is comfortable being combed, spend a few minutes removing those threats. If your dog shows signs of new fleas, give another bath.

Dog Food for Sensitive Stomachs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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1
Dogs with sensitive stomachs may become ill after eating food that irritates their digestive tract.
When our dog gets sick after eating or doesn’t want to eat, many of us try different locations, new bowls, varied foods, all usually with little success. Start with a checkup with your veterinarian then, if all is well, use the suggestions in this article to zero in on the right food. Credit: Bochimsang | Getty Images

For dogs with sensitive stomachs, meals can cause discomfort and distress. Digestive issues can negatively impact our pet’s quality of life and leave many owners searching for a solution to help alleviate their dog’s digestive issues. Fortunately, a lot of options exist for finding the right dog food for your dog.

What Is a “Sensitive Stomach”?

The term “sensitive stomach” refers to a variety of gastrointestinal issues that can impact dogs of all breeds, age, and size.

Common symptoms of sensitivities include:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Gas
  • Bloating
  • Abdominal discomfort

While the underlying cause of sensitive stomachs can vary, potential factors may include food sensitivities or allergies, dietary changes, stress, gastrointestinal illness, and underlying medical conditions. If your dog is displaying chronic digestive issues, have him evaluated by your veterinarian to first rule out treatable illnesses or medical conditions.

Choosing the Right Dog Food

If illness is not to blame for the digestive upset, many owners and veterinarians turn to diet modification to try to alleviate symptoms. But what is the best dog food for dogs with sensitive stomachs? Choosing the right diet can be tricky, solid strategies to help you find the right food for your dog, include:

Highly Digestible Ingredients: When looking for food for dogs with sensitive stomachs, be sure to prioritize diets made with highly digestible ingredients. Select a diet made with high-quality proteins, fats, and carbohydrates, and try to avoid foods that utilize artificial additives and preservatives, as these ingredients can be harder for sensitive stomachs to tolerate.

Limited Ingredients: Many dogs with sensitive stomachs can benefit from diets that are made using limited ingredients. These diets typically contain a small number of high quality, readily digestible ingredients that may help reduce the risk of triggering digestive upset.

Novel Protein Source: These diets also often feature novel protein sources, which can be beneficial for sensitive dogs. Many food-related sensitivities are linked to intolerances to the protein source that is used.  Novel protein sources, such as venison, kangaroo, alligator, duck, and rabbit, are less likely to elicit an allergic response compared to conventional proteins like chicken, beef, and lamb.

Hydrolyzed Proteins: As well as novel proteins, hydrolyzed proteins may be used. Hydrolyzed proteins have undergone processing to break them apart into smaller, highly digestible components. These smaller components, amino acids and peptides, are less likely to trigger digestive upset in dogs with sensitive stomachs.

Supplementing Probiotics

Probiotic supplementation can help maintain digestive health and alleviate symptoms often associated with sensitive stomachs. Probiotics are live microorganisms, often referred to as “good bacteria,” that confer health benefits to the host animal when consumed. Probiotics help to maintain a healthy balance of gut bacteria, which can be disrupted in dogs with sensitive stomachs.

Probiotic supplementation can:

  • Restore the healthy balance in the gut by increasing the populations of beneficial strains and suppressing the harmful bacteria populations that can contribute to gastrointestinal upset.
  • Reduce the severity and frequency of gastrointestinal upset in dogs and promote smoother digestion by supporting the breakdown and absorption of nutrients from food.
  • Support immune function, with about 70% of the immune system located in the gut. Probiotics can function as immune modulators, reducing inflammation and potentially alleviating symptoms associated with food sensitivities.

Finding Probiotics for Your Dog

Some high-quality dog foods are formulated with added probiotics already in them; however, many owners opt for a probiotic supplement for their pet.

When selecting a probiotic for your dog, consider the strain and species. Probiotic species such as Bifidobacterium animalis, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and Lactobacillus rhamnosus, among others, that have been shown to be beneficial for digestion and GI upset.

When using probiotics, remember that long-term use is key to their efficacy. It takes time for the probiotic colonies to become established, outcompete the harmful bacterial colonies, and pass along benefits to our pets. Continued supplementation can ensure their health and stability in dogs, as can prebiotic fiber supplementation.

A word about prebiotic fibers: Prebiotic fiber can be added to the diet to support the health of beneficial bacteria (probiotics) living in the gut by providing them with a food source. By promoting the growth and activity of the probiotic bacteria, prebiotic fiber helps to maintain a healthy gut microbiome, which can alleviate digestive issues such as diarrhea, constipation, and gas. A gut microbiome facilitated by prebiotic fiber supplementation supports better digestion, absorption of nutrients by the dog, and overall improved immune function. Look for food that contains added prebiotic fibers such as Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) or chicory root (a source of inulin). Other ingredients, such as oats, barley, and sweet potatoes are natural sources of fibers that support digestive health.

When choosing a supplement for your dog, Whole Dog Journal recommends looking for the seal of the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) to best ensure the product you’re considering contains what the label claims.

Commercial Diets

A variety of diets on the market are formulated specifically for dogs with sensitive stomachs. These diets often incorporate one or more of the strategies discussed in this article. In general, these diets are formulated to be highly digestible and often incorporate prebiotic fibers, probiotics, contain limited ingredients, and often use a single protein source. Depending on the manufacturer, feeding trials and clinical studies may have been performed to show efficacy.

In severe cases, veterinary-formulated diets may be necessary to manage symptoms and provide relief for dogs with sensitive stomachs. These vet-recommended diets are formulated to address underlying digestive issues or medical conditions and may require a prescription.

The Healthiest Food for Sensitive Stomachs

For dogs with sensitive stomachs, finding the right food is essential for supporting their health, wellbeing, and quality of life. Selecting foods that are easily digestible, contain novel proteins, use limited ingredients, and utilize a single protein source may help to reduce the chance that your pet reacts negatively to them.

However, remember that every dog is an individual and a variety of strategies may be needed to properly manage symptoms. If you think your dog is having difficulties with a sensitive stomach, a change in diet may make all the difference. As always, a consultation with your veterinarian may save you time and money in determining the best strategy to meet your dog’s individual needs.

Subscribers can consult our dog food databases online and search for foods that contain specific ingredients. We have databases for dry, wet, and freeze-dried/dehydrated foods.

Is Liver Good for Dogs?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Liver is good for dogs in moderation.
One concern with feeding liver to dog is where the liver came from. For example, beef liver contains more vitamin A than poultry liver. Credit: Mauinow1 | Getty Images

Liver is often touted as a nutritional powerhouse for dogs that is packed with essential vitamins and minerals that can provide numerous health benefits. However, too much of a good thing can be harmful, so this organ meat may not be the best choice for your dog. Understanding the pros and cons of feeding liver can help you to make an informed decision about incorporating this organ meat into your dog’s diet.

Nutrients in Liver

Dogs can eat liver, and it is one of the most nutrient-dense organ meats available. It is particularly high in vitamins A, D, E, and K as well as multiple B vitamins. These vitamins pay crucial roles in immune function, vision, and energy metabolism. Liver is also an excellent source of essential minerals including iron, zinc, copper, and selenium, important for various bodily functions including oxygen transport, enzymatic activity, and defense against oxidation.

Liver contains highly digestible, high-quality protein for dogs that can support cellular repair, muscle growth, and immune function. Many dogs find liver palatable, and it can be a beneficial addition for dogs that have a low appetite and need encouragement to eat.

Risks with Liver for Dogs

Despite liver’s nutritional benefits, some risks come with feeding liver, depending on the species the liver is sourced from and the amount that is fed.

Vitamins fall into two main categories, fat-soluble and water-soluble. Excess amounts of water-soluble vitamins are flushed from the body and excreted in the urine, whereas fat-soluble vitamins are stored in the body and overconsumption can lead to dangerous toxicities. Of the fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K), vitamins A and D are of the highest concern when it comes to dogs.

Liver, specifically the liver of long-lived or ruminant animals, such as cows, sheep, and goats (specifically those that have been grass fed), can have very high levels of vitamin A. Feeding too much liver can lead to vitamin A toxicity (hypervitaminosis A), which can cause bone abnormalities, joint pain, nausea, weakness, convulsions, paralysis, and, in extreme cases, death.

The liver is also responsible for filtering and metabolizing toxins within the animal. Because of this function, it can accumulate toxins and contaminants from the animal’s diet or environment. Longer-lived animals have the potential to accumulate higher levels of toxins than livestock animals that reach market weight quickly, such as poultry.

How to Safely Feed Liver to Your Dog

When feeding your dog liver, moderation is key. As a general guideline, liver should make up no more than 5% to 10% of your dog’s diet. The species from which the liver is from also matters. Beef liver is more likely to be higher in vitamin A than poultry liver. Rotating the species that you source liver for your dog from can help to not only add some variety, but also mitigate some of the risks.

Liver can be a beneficial addition to your dog’s diet, providing multiple essential nutrients for your furry friend. However, it is essential to feed liver in moderation to mitigate some of the potential risks, such as vitamin A toxicity and contaminants. By understanding both the benefits and potential risks, you can make an informed decision to help ensure your pet receives a balanced and nutritious diet that meets their specific needs.

Subscribers can consult our dog food databases online and search for foods that contain specific ingredients. We have databases for dry, wet, and freeze-dried/dehydrated foods.

Doxycycline Is Not Best for Kennel Cough

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Treating kennel cough with doxycycline is not the best option.
: If your dog socializes with other dogs, a vaccination for kennel cough may be a wise choice. If he isn’t vaccinated and develops a cough, consult your veterinarian rather than reaching for doxycycline. Credit: Foto Zlatko | Getty Images

Over the weekend, your dog mingled with lots of other canine friends, and now he is coughing, honking like the cough associated with kennel cough. You may remember that you have some leftover antibiotics, like doxycycline, on hand and wonder if it will help. No! This is not a great idea for multiple reasons.

Many, if not most, cases of kennel cough are primarily viral. Doxycycline is an antibiotic, which means it only treats bacterial infection—and only susceptible bacterial infections at that, like bartonella. Giving your dog doxycycline for kennel cough will not help and may contribute to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

Doxycycline Side Effects

In some illnesses, doxycycline is by far the best antibiotic choice, and your veterinarian will prescribe it. Most side effects are related to the gastrointestinal tract. Even if given with food, doxy may cause vomiting, diarrhea, or anorexia (not wanting to eat) in a dog. Liver enzymes may increase. Doxycycline should only be used with caution for a dog with any sort of liver problem.

Note: Avoid doxy for growing puppies and pregnant dogs as well due to effects on developing bones and teeth.

Almost all medications have some interactions with other drugs, and doxy is no different. Doxycycline can interfere with antacids and phenobarbital, which is given for seizures. If your dog is on these medications, your veterinarian will help you with a dosing schedule that can work around these problems.

Help For Kennel Cough

Back to your coughing dog! Most cases of “kennel cough” or canine infectious respiratory disease complex (CIRDC) will have multiple pathogenic agents involved. The most common are Bordetella bronchiseptica (a bacteria), parainfluenza virus, herpesvirus, adenovirus, and mycoplasma.

Dogs with uncomplicated kennel cough tend to have a dry, “honking” cough. They usually sound much worse than they feel. The cough is exacerbated by exercise, anything pulling or pushing on their trachea like a leash and collar, and sometimes eating and drinking. Your dog may be tired and not eat well.

A pure, viral kennel cough is non-productive and dry. If your dog’s cough changes to a “wet” cough, as in coughs up discharge or has quite a bit of nasal discharge, he probably has a secondary infection and may progress to pneumonia. Difficulty breathing and a fever are signs that pneumonia may be involved. If a secondary infection like this has set in, an antibiotic such as doxycycline may come into play.

Dogs with a cough are generally diagnosed by a physical exam that includes listening carefully to the dog’s chest with a stethoscope. Your veterinarian will rule out any sort of cardiac condition and may recommend X-rays if there is concern about pneumonia, a heart problem, or cancer.

Treating Kennel Cough

Treating a dog with kennel cough often consists mainly of nursing care. There are no canine anti-viral medications for canine coughs. Antitussives (cough medications) such as butorphanol may be prescribed by your veterinarian if your dog is exhausted from coughing and needs to rest. Setting up a humidifier for the room your dog tends to hang out in and keeping him in the bathroom while you shower can ease the cough.

Encourage your dog to eat and drink. Since his sense of smell may be altered. In these cases, smelly food choices can help. The liquid from a can of tuna mixed with some water can be enticing. We all laugh about chicken soup, but low-sodium chicken with rice or low-sodium chicken noodle soup may hit the spot for your dog.

If you normally walk your dog in a collar, consider switching to a harness during this time. Be sure the harness does not put pressure on the trachea. Limit your dog to leash walks, no running with playmates (plus, remember, kennel cough is highly contagious), or playing fetch. Avoid any regular training classes, boarding, or daycare routines until the cough is cleared. You don’t want your dog to be the “Kennel Cough Kid” who spreads the problem! Most dogs will show improvement within a week and be fine after two weeks with just home care.

If your dog appears to be ill, or getting worse, he may need veterinary attention. Cases that move on to pneumonia may require hospitalization with IV fluids and supplemental oxygen.

Controlling Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is spread via droplets expelled when coughing. Dogs can pick up the virus through sniffing an infected dog and from contaminated surfaces, including food and water bowls as well as toys. That means you need to practice great hygiene at home, especially if you have multiple dogs. Realistically, the other dogs will have been exposed and, unless they have immunity through a vaccination, they may end up coughing too. Think of your family sharing a cold.

The best way to avoid cases of kennel cough is to use preventive vaccinations. The kennel cough (Bordetella) vaccine is considered lifestyle vaccination choice, meaning a non-core vaccine that is recommended depending upon your dog’s activities. If your dog stays at home most of the time—no training classes, sports competitions, grooming appointments, or daycare visits—he probably does not need a kennel cough vaccine. If he participates in any of these activities, you need to discuss a vaccination with your veterinarian.

Versions of vaccines for CIRDC vary. Parainfluenza and adenovirus type 2 are both generally included in your dog’s routine distemper/parvo vaccinations. Bordetella, or kennel cough, is generally given separately.

For the Bordetella vaccine, three versions are available:

  1. This vaccine may include parainfluenza and adenovirus, or it may be straight Bordetella. The plus to this vaccine is that it provides local immunity, catching the pathogen right as it enters your dog’s system. It can be tricky to give as many dogs resent being held so still and fight getting drops in their nose. Many a veterinarian and vet technician have gotten a dose of this vaccine themselves when a dog sneezes it back in their faces!
  2. This involves using a plastic syringe to put the vaccine inside your dog’s mouth, usually via a cheek from the side. This puts the vaccine near the pharynx, so the local immune system also catches the bacteria as it enters your dog’s respiratory system. Currently, this vaccine is pure Bordetella.
  3. The vaccine is injected into the dog under the skin.

All these vaccines should be boostered annually for dogs with likely exposures. None have the complete coverage like a rabies vaccine. Some vaccinated dogs will still get a cough, but generally symptoms are milder and recovery is faster.

Identifying Worms in Dog Poop

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Eating wild prey is one of the ways that dogs get worms and other parasites.
Hunting wild rabbits comes naturally to pretty much all dogs and, if caught, that rabbit many pass along worms to your dog. Credit: Christopher Furlong | Getty Images

Internal parasites or worms are of great concern to both canines and their people. In some cases, the parasites are zoonotic (meaning humans can get them, too). In all cases, parasites can drain nutrients from your dog, and they are unsightly. In severe cases, a heavy parasite load can cause death.

The most common worms are roundworms or ascarids in puppies and tapeworms in any dog who has had fleas or hunts and eats his prey.

What to Do If You See Worms in Poop

Roundworms are one of many parasites that ca infect a dogs digestive tract.
Roundworms are commonly found in puppies as most heartworm preventatives also target roundworms. However, roundworms can affect humans, too. Credit: Kateryna Kon/Science Photo Library | Getty Images

If you find worms, bring them to your veterinarian for identification. For puppies, it’s important to do periodic microscopic inspection of feces (called “fecals”) even if you don’t see worms. Eggs can be identified under the microscope. Treatment is then tailored to any parasites found.

Roundworms are a zoonotic problem, meaning they can infect people as well as dogs, particularly children who might play in contaminated dirt on the ground and in playgrounds. Because humans are not a normal host for these parasites, the larval stages tend to migrate around human tissues. Common syndromes are visceral larva migrans with liver and pulmonary damage and ocular larva migrans, which has led to enucleation due to suspicion of cancer in some cases. I remember a friend growing up who had had an eye removed, and it turned out to be this parasite.

Roundworm infections need to be treated when detected and prevented, if possible. Almost all the monthly preventives for heartworm disease now cover the common intestinal parasites as well. Using one of these medications year-round can prevent roundworms in your dogs. It is also important to pick up after your dog to avoid fecal contamination of the environment.

Tapeworms in Dogs

Tapeworms are commonly noticed by owners in their dog’s stool. What you see most of time are really egg packets that get passed out with the feces. Occasionally a dog may vomit up whole tapeworms or pass adult worms in the stool, but that is uncommon.

The egg packets are visible to the naked eye and appear white and glistening when freshly eliminated on stool. Over time, they dry up and may look more like dried rice. Packets can stick on the hair around the rectum or in places where your dog rests, like his bed or your couch.

In general, tapeworms do not cause major health problems in dogs. A massive load might cause an intestinal impaction but rarely. The most common sign of tapeworm infestation is irritation around the anus. Dogs with tapeworms may lick and chew that area or “scoot” their butt, in a manner similar to a dog with an anal-gland problem.

The two tapeworm species seen most frequently in the United States are Taenia species and Dyplidium caninum. These two parasites have different life cycles and hosts. Your veterinarian can identify which type of tapeworm your dog has be looking at eggs under a microscope.

Taenia tapeworms come from ingested infected prey animals. For dogs, that means hunting, catching, killing, and eating wild rabbits. Many owners are shocked to find out that is how their dogs got tapeworms, but hunting urges are strong in almost all dogs, no matter what breed.

Dogs infected with Dyplidium have a different host. Fleas, or occasionally lice, are the intermediate host. A flea biting your dog won’t transmit tapeworms, but when your dog is biting and chewing from flea irritation, if he swallows some fleas, he can pick up tapeworms. (This is also true for any cats in your household, so if you have fleas, be prepared to treat your dogs and cats.)

Treating Tapeworms in Dogs

Treatment for tapeworms is slightly more complicated than treating for roundworms. The drugs praziquantel and epsiprantel are effective in most cases against Dyplidium, though some resistance to the drug seems to be developing. For Taenia species, praziquantel, epsiprantel, and fenbendazole are effective. Unlike roundworm treatment, where virtually all heartworm preventives contain medications to catch them, only a couple of these monthly medications (like Drontal Plus and Interecptor Plus) also cover tapeworms.

While tapeworms don’t have the overall health and zoonotic concerns of ascarids, aesthetically, it is desirable to treat them. No one wants dried (or fresh) tapeworm segments, or proglottids on their dog or on their furniture. Once again, prevention is key.

Once your veterinarian has identified the type of tapeworm your dog has, you can make a plan. Tapeworm eggs are almost never found on a fecal flotation (a laboratory method that separates the eggs from the feces), so you need to bring in some of the egg packets. Fresh or dried feces generally work. Your veterinarian will examine the packets under the microscope to identity the exact species involved.

If Taenia species are found, you need to limit your dog’s opportunities for hunting or be prepared to periodically deworm for these tapeworms. For Dyplidium tapeworms, you need to eliminate any fleas or lice. That means treating pets and the environment.

An unusual tapeworm, Echinococcus, can cause problems in dogs via liver damage and cysts. This is also a zoonotic parasite and can cause serious health problems in humans. Ungulates (hoofed animals such as sheep and deer) are intermediate hosts, along with some rodent species. Currently, cases of this parasite are very unusual in the United States with most cases confined to sheep herding dogs.

Use Schedules to Help Your Dog Cope

By
Nancy Kerns
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Routines can help a dog remain calm during everyday activities.
Dogs are masters of identifying and responding to patterns of events. Be conscious and deliberate with your behavior when you want them to behave consistently. Credit: AlenaPaulus, Getty Images

In late 2022, we published a valuable article, “How to Calm an Anxious Dog: Be Predictable,” by Virginia trainer Kathy Callahan. In it, Callahan discusses how the more predictable that our dogs’ daily schedule is, the calmer their behavior is likely to be.

Dogs are incredibly quick to pick up on patterns of events that predict what we are about to do, or what we are about to make them to do. About a month ago, I re-started a habit I hadn’t practiced for a year: waking very early and taking my dogs with me for a walk around our rural “block” (about 2.5 miles). On the first and second days, they didn’t get up from their beds when I first got up at about 6 am—they likely just figured I was going to the bathroom or getting a drink of water, two events that are not worthy of leaving their beds to observe. They didn’t really pay attention to me until they heard me putting on my shoes and filling up a water bottle; then they got out of bed and stood by the door, ready to accompany me wherever I was going. By day three, they leapt up from their beds and greeted me when I sat up in bed, even before my feet had hit the floor. “Yeah! Let’s do this!” their wagging tails and eager faces seemed to say.

You may have noticed your dog getting hyped when you drive down the street that leads to their doggie daycare or their best friends’ house—or getting down on the floor of the car, cowed and shaky, when you pull into your vet’s parking lot.

Or you may have noticed that your dog howls with anticipation when you pull on your walking shoes, but pays no attention to you at all when you put on the shoes you wear to work.

People often struggle to teach their new puppies or dogs to accept short periods of confinement in a crate or pen. I find that if the confinement is regular, and not over-long nor related to the dog’s behavior (used as a punishment or “time-out”), the dog or puppy usually accepts the confinement within a matter a matter of days—like, three to four days at the very most. Once they understand that the period of their confinement is never too long and will come to an end soon, but not as a result of their howling or crying, they tend not to howl or cry, but stoically wait for their release.

Similarly, when it’s time to go for a walk, does your dog get so excited that he makes it difficult to put his harness on or snap his leash to his collar? That’s because the harness or leash always predicts a walk, and that’s exciting! But you can shape the experience so that it goes more smoothly for you, by making it entirely predictable that his hyper behavior will always circumvent a trip outdoors. If you quit the process of trying to put his harness on or dropping his leash every time he gets hyper, walking away from him for at least 10 or more minutes, it won’t take him long to put it together that he’s not going to get to go outdoors unless he holds still.

Set a pattern that works for you, and don’t deviate from it! You’ll be amazed at how well it works for you and your dog!

Apoquel Quickly Addresses Itchy Skin

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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A golden retriever scratching their ear.
Apoquel can soothe many itches in as little as four hours, although infections still need to be treated. Credit: More Than Words Photography by Alisa Brouwer | Getty Images

In 2014, Zoetis released an oral medication that significantly changed how itchy dogs are treated today. Apoquel (oclacitinib maleate) is an FDA-approved medication for use in dogs at least 12 months of age to treat atopic and allergic dermatitis. In 2024, a flavored, chewable form of Apoquel was made available (pork liver flavor, containing pork and soy). Apoquel has provided a way to quickly address itching in dogs, with relief possible in as little as four hours.

Controlling the Itch

Generally, the three primary reasons a dog might be itchy are:

  • External parasitism (fleas, mites, etc.)
  • Airborne allergies (atopic dermatitis)
  • Dietary sensitivity (allergic dermatitis)

Prior to the release of Apoquel, treating an itchy dog was difficult and largely disappointing. Typical treatments included:

  • Control of external parasites (spot-on topicals, flea/tick collars, oral medications, lime-sulfur dips)
  • Steroids (these had multiple side effects, including excessive drinking, urination, and appetite)
  • Modified cyclosporine (cost-prohibitive for many dog owners)
  • Hyposensitization therapy (injectable or sublingual, which can take months to years to have an effect, only 60% to 70% success rate),
  • Strict dietary therapy with a prescription diet (hydrolyzed or novel protein/novel carbohydrate)
  • Medicated baths
  • Oral antihistamines
  • Omega-3 fatty acid supplements

Enter Apoquel for Dogs

Apoquel is an immunomodulator (JAK inhibitor) that inhibits cytokines involved in the itch and inflammation pathways. Onset to relief is as soon as four hours. The approved dose of Apoquel is 0.18 to 0.27 mg oclacitinib/lb (0.4 to 0.6 mg clacitinib/kg) body weight, administered orally, twice daily for up to 14 days, and then administered once daily for maintenance therapy. Apoquel can be used seasonally, or throughout the year. Apoquel can be given with or without food. Apoquel is available in 3.6 mg, 5.4 mg, and 16 mg tablets and is a prescription medication. Follow your prescriber’s recommendation for dosages, but you can access the Zoetis dosing chart here.

Cautions With Apoquel

Apoquel should not be used in dogs less than 12 months old, dogs who are breeding, pregnant or nursing, or dogs who have severe infections. Apoquel can make a dog more susceptible to infection, including demodicosis (overgrowth of Demodex mite) or severe cancerous conditions. Dogs on Apoquel should be monitored for these potential conditions.

While Apoquel is not likely to increase the risk of new cancers, it can make pre-existing cancer worse. In other words, a pre-existing tumor may get bigger. Apoquel can be given with antibiotics and vaccines. According to Zoetis, Apoquel has not been evaluated for use in conjunction with steroids, cyclosporine, or other systemic immunosuppressive agents.

Apoquel Side Effects

The most commonly reported side effects in the post-approval period include vomiting, lethargy, inappetence, and diarrhea.

In the itchy dog, external parasites and infections will still need to be treated, as these disease states can cause more problems than just itching.

There are dogs whose itch cannot be fully controlled using Apoquel, and for those cases, a discussion with the dog’s veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist is recommended for additional or replacement therapies.

Low-Fat Dog Food for Weight Management

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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2
Weight management dog food, along with exercise can help dogs lose weight.
A fat dog is not a happy dog. His excess weight makes for painful joints, so he doesn’t want to move, which only worsens the situation. Dogs love to eat, just as we do, but it’s up to us to control his weight.

The best dog food to help dogs lose weight is one that is formulated to provide fewer calories per serving, while still meeting the minimum requirements of essential nutrients, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). A label on the side of the food with the AAFCO Statement assures you nutritional needs are met. But what about low-fat dog foods and calorie levels?

In dogs, excess energy (calories) consumption is a common issue in weight control problems. This is due to a variety of factors including the high calorific density and palatability of many dog foods, low activity levels, and supplemental treats, toppers, and foods.

The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) estimates show that over 40% of dogs are considered overweight, or 10% to 15% above their desired body weight, and 25% of dogs are considered obese, which is 20% to 25% above their desired bodyweight.

Excess energy intake has several detrimental effects on dogs during growth, especially on the skeletal growth in puppies of large or giant breeds. Excessive energy intake during growth also impacts the total number of fat cells present in the body, meaning that overfeeding a puppy can contribute to obesity later in the dog’s life. Once a fat cell has been formed, it will never go away, and research has shown that individual fat cells produce hormones that increase appetite and hunger and help the fat cell to retain its stored fat.

Obesity has been linked to the development of orthopedic problems later in life, such as arthritis, as well as increasing the likelihood of diabetes, hyperlipidemia, pancreatitis, and heart failure. One study showed that by reducing the amount of food fed to a controlled group of labradors by 25% they lived an average of 1.5 years longer and had lower incidences of orthopedic problems, cancer, and metabolic diseases.

While we all strive to keep our companions in tiptop shape, changes in lifestyle, age, or environment can lead to weight gain, for both us and our pets. So, what is the best course of action if you have an overweight or obese dog, and what is the best dog food for weight loss?

Choosing a dog food designed for weight management is key to helping your pet achieve and maintain a healthy weight without causing any nutritional deficiencies. Weight management, weight control, and lite formulas are fancy ways to say “diet dog foods,” which focus on achieving nutritional adequacy while being low in calories. These diets are formulated to provide fewer calories per serving but still provide adequate essential nutrients, as defined by AAFCO. In addition, these diets also typically allow owners to feed their dog a larger volume of food, helping their pet to feel full and satiated longer.

When looking for a weight-loss formula, look for diets that contain high-quality proteins. Protein is essential for maintaining lean muscle mass, especially during weight loss. Dogs require protein to maintain and build muscle tissue, repair cells, maintain healthy skin and coat, and more. Protein can also be used as an energy source for dogs. Proteins are metabolized throughout the day, providing sustained energy levels. Lean meats, such as chicken, turkey, rabbit, kangaroo, and venison, are optimal as they are high in protein while also being low in fat.

While fat is an essential nutrient for our dogs, fat is very energy dense and should be avoided in excess. Because of this, weight-management formulas typically have a significantly lower fat content compared to conventional dog diets and may be marketed as low fat dog foods.

Diets that are higher in fiber can help your dog feel full and satiated without adding additional calories to the diet. You may see ingredients such as cellulose (plant fiber), miscanthus grass, or beet pulp added to weight-management diets to help add additional fiber. Many vegetables are also high in fiber, low in calories, and can provide beneficial vitamins and minerals to your dog.

Weight management dog food along with exercise can help your dog get to a healthy weight.
Keeping your dog at an optimal weight and physically fit is as critical to his health and longevity as it is to you. Credit: Vgajic | Getty Images

If your dog enjoys veggies, adding unsalted green beans to their food can help add bulk to their meals while also providing additional vitamins and minerals. Carrots, bell peppers, and zucchini make for a great low-calorie, nutritious snack or treat for pups striving for weight loss as well. While fiber is fantastic for aiding weight loss, excess fiber can cause flatulence, constipation, or diarrhea, so be sure to introduce vegetables to your pup slowly and in moderation.

Excess weight can put a lot of strain on joints, so look for a weight-management formula that includes ingredients to support joint health. Fish oils and marine microalgal oil provide a great source of omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to help reduce inflammation and support joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate may also be added to the diet and may benefit overweight dogs prone to joint issues.

If the diet does not contain ingredients to support joint health, they can be added in the form of a joint supplement. It is important to note that fish oils, fatty fish, and green-lipped mussels are calorie dense, so they should be supplemented in moderation and carefully measured.

Choosing the right food for weight loss and management is essential for ensuring your dog reaches and maintains a healthy weight and enjoys a long, healthy life. By selecting a balanced, calorie-controlled diet that prioritizes high quality, lean protein, and is formulated with high-quality, whole, ingredients, you can support your dog’s weight management goals. Always monitor your dog’s progress and consult your veterinarian for personalized care and routine body condition score (BCS) assessments. Be sure to adjust feeding based on your dog’s activity levels and rate of weight loss. With proper diet and regular exercise, you and your dog can maintain a healthy weight for years to come.

Subscribers can search for dog foods that meet your pet’s specific needs using our WDJ Online Database of approved foods.

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