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Dog Rehoming: When Is It the Right Decision?

Sometimes rehoming a dog is the best option for keeping the dog and your family safe.

Ask any animal shelter or rescue group, and they will tell you that people surrender their dogs for a myriad of reasons. More common ones include: Moving, can’t keep; landlord won’t allow; not enough time; and can’t afford.

Although those are the reasons commonly given, the underlying cause far more often in those cases is that something interfered with the development of the all-important bond between dog and human that ensures the dog a lifelong, loving home. Every day, thousands of dog lovers move and take their dogs with them, find a new place to live where dogs are allowed, rearrange busy schedules to make time for their dogs, and reprioritize budgets to cover their dog-care expenses.

Animal protection and rescue workers often become cynical about and unsympathetic toward those who give up their dogs. Many of us who love our dogs find it difficult to imagine any legitimate reason for rehoming a dog. While it’s true that many dogs are given up for seemingly frivolous reasons, there are times when it is the right thing to do, including the following.

What are valid reasons for rehoming a dog?

1. Two (or more) dogs in the family are seriously fighting.

Although it’s not uncommon for two dogs in a family to have occasional squabbles, there are also times when knock-down-drag-out battles – or even rough play – can put one or more canine family members at risk of serious injury or even death (not to mention the risk of injury to the humans who have to intervene in the dog fights). This can be especially life-threatening when a size differential almost guarantees that a smaller dog will be injured – or killed – by a larger dog who plays too roughly or has mayhem in mind. Plus there is the risk of predatory drift, where the larger dog sees a significantly smaller playmate dash across the yard and his brain kicks into “Squirrel!” mode. He perceives his smaller canine companion as “prey” instead of “playmate,” and tragedy strikes.

dogs fighting in the house
Many of us who love our dogs find it difficult to imagine any legitimate reason for rehoming a dog, but there are times when it is the right thing to do © Martina Osmy Dreamstime.com

Whether due to size difference or not, conflict and potential injury between canine family members calls for careful management protocols, implementation of a behavior modification program to reduce or remove tension when possible, and if necessary, rehoming of one dog to prevent tragedy. If modification isn’t successful and management isn’t realistic, it is only fair to give both dogs a chance at long and happy lives by rehoming one. (I usually recommend rehoming the easier of the two dogs rather than the more problematic one, because it’s much more difficult to rehome a dog with problematic behavior; you are probably that dog’s best option.)

2. The dog is a danger to someone in the household, or to the community.

This often entails aggressive behavior, but not always. Sometimes an aging dog-lover makes the mistake of replacing her beloved senior dog who recently passed away with a puppy of the same breed, forgetting that she was 15 years younger the last time she had a bouncing adolescent canine underfoot. If the human’s dexterity and balance is beginning to fail her, and/or if she is physically unable to meet the dog’s activity needs, rehoming may be the best option.

While daycare, pet walkers, and sympathetic family members and friends may be able to help with some of the exercise, the dog might still present too great a threat to the owner’s safety. If that’s the case, rehoming is the right choice.

A rowdy dog may also present some physical risk to small children in the home. Good management can often minimize the danger while the child grows and the dog matures and learns his good manners behaviors. Aggression, however, is another matter.

Aggression alone is not necessarily a reason to give up your dog. It is irresponsible parenting and dog-caretaking, however, to keep a dog who shows a willingness to bite kids in a home with children. Dogs who live in homes with small children must adore them, or the child’s safety is at significant risk. Anything less than “adore” means the dog should be rehomed, or at least sent off to stay with relatives until the child is old enough to no longer be at risk, and/or the dog has learned to love children. It’s a lot easier to rehome a dog before he bites a child.

should i rehome my dog?
There are valid reasons for rehoming a dog.

A dog with aggressive behaviors presents a risk to the community if the human is unwilling or unable to take necessary management steps to keep the community (and the dog) safe. While this can be due to a lack of concern on the human’s part, it can also be a result of denial and/or lack of education. When aggressive behaviors have been identified in a dog, it is critically important that the caretakers prevent the dog from having any opportunity to bite, and seek assistance from a qualified positive behavior professional for help in managing and modifying the behavior.

3. An unavoidable change in life circumstances precludes keeping the dog.

Stuff happens. You may have the strongest commitment in the world to your dog, and if life circumstances change and you can truly no longer care for him, then rehoming is the responsible decision. I’m not talking about simple priority choices (“We can’t afford the dog’s ACL surgery because we want to go to Europe this summer”); I’m talking about unavoidable life events such as heart attacks, strokes, foreclosure, moving to a long-term care facility, and other life-shattering occurrences. Sometimes, tragically, you really can’t care for your beloved canine any longer.

4. The dog has a health or behavior problem that is beyond the means of the owner to resolve.

Quality of life is an important consideration for dog and humans. If you really can’t afford the care your dog needs, you either provide it anyway, perhaps at the cost of your own health or diet, or you don’t provide it and your dog suffers. You can choose to make sacrifices in order to provide for your beloved dog, but there may come a legitimate time when the sacrifice is too great, or the challenge too difficult. Some medical procedures now available for dogs cost tens of thousands of dollars. Just because we can try to fix something and prolong life, doesn’t always mean we should. A loving caretaker may be completely willing to work with her difficult dog’s behaviors, but physically unable to do so. In those cases, rehoming a dog or even euthanasia may well be the best choice.

Aggression, severe separation anxiety,  and a variety of canine obsessive-compulsive disorders can be extremely difficult behavior challenges. While these sometimes respond to treatment, often with the help of behavior modification drugs, they don’t always, and quality of life can be greatly damaged for both dog and human.

For more information on how to treat separation anxiety, see “Surviving Severe Separation Anxiety.”

5. Wrong dog for the situation.

Sometimes, humans acquire a dog for a specific purpose – to be a service dog, do narcotics detection, or to fulfill some other working or competition goals. Sometimes the chosen dog turns out to be totally unsuited for the desired purpose, and the human doesn’t have the luxury of keeping the newly acquired dog while seeking another one who is more suited for the training goal. In such cases, it may be absolutely necessary, or at least fully justifiable, to return or rehome a dog in order to allow the person to seek and select a more appropriate candidate.

senior dog and senior man
Sometimes, rehoming a dog may be absolutely necessary, or at least fully justifiable.

Options for rehoming a dog

  1. Return her to the breeder, shelter, or rescue group you acquired her from. Responsible breeders and adoption organizations contractually require this, although some may allow you to rehome to someone you know that they pre-approve.

Caveats: If the place where you got your dog was less than reputable (for example, with overcrowded, poor conditions) you won’t want to return the dog there. If you got her from a pet store or puppy mill (oh dear), returning is not an option.

2.  Place her with a trusted friend or family member. Well-loved, well-behaved, healthy dogs usually have a circle of admirers who would jump at the chance to adopt.

Caveats: Even your best friend or favorite relative may decline to take on a dog with major health or behavior challenges. You must be honest about these challenges.

  1. Advertise for someone to adopt her. People sometimes have success with rehoming dogs by advertising on Craigslist or with fliers posted on the bulletin board at local pet supply stores or veterinary offices. Social media can be a huge help, too; put together some good pictures and complete description of your dog (and the reasons you have to rehome her) and ask your friends to share. You never know, a friend of a friend may have a perfect spot for the dog.

Caveats: Try to allow for plenty of time (weeks or even months) to network in search of a perfect new owner for your dog. It’s not easy to screen potential adopters – you risk placing your dog with someone who won’t provide the kind of loving care you want for her, despite their assurances (this goes triple if she has health or behavior issues). There have been recent Use Caution: There are numerous news stories about dogs placed in new homes free of charge by owners, shelters, and rescue groups, only to have to purported adopters “flip” (sell) the free dogs, or worse

  1. Take her to a good shelter or rescue. There are thousands of excellent dog adoption services around the country. Many provide medical treatment for at least some of the dogs in their care that the person surrendering the dog couldn’t afford. The best have behavior departments or working relationships with qualified professionals to modify difficult behaviors in order to make dogs more likely to succeed in their next, hopefully final, homes. Not everything is fixable, and responsible groups still have to make difficult euthanasia decisions, but your dog might be one they can help.

Caveats: Be sure you research these groups diligently. Visit the facility to see that it’s clean and well run. If you can’t visit, don’t leave your dog there. If they won’t give you straight answers about their willingness to treat medical issues or modify difficult behaviors, don’t leave your dog there. If your dog isn’t adopted, she may suffer in a cage at a “no-kill” shelter for the rest of her life, or worse, in the hands of a hoarder posing as a shelter or rescue. Again, you must be brutally honest about your dog’s health or behavior problems.

  1. Have her euthanized. As painful as this, it may be the kindest thing you can do if your dog has significant health and/or behavior issues. It may not be realistic to ask someone else to care for such a dog, and she could be abused or neglected in the process. Dying peacefully in the arms of someone who loves her is better than dying neglected in someone’s backyard, or after spending weeks, months, or years in the stressful environment of a shelter.

When I have a client considering this option because of difficult canine behaviors, I gently suggest that euthanasia is not an inappropriate choice for a loved dog if the client is unable to do the things necessary to restore her dog to physical health, or to manage and/or modify behaviors. I don’t tell her she should make that choice, but I let her know I’ll support her if she does.

Examples of responsible dog rehomes

Here are some examples from my world, of times when rehoming was necessary, responsible and appropriate. Names are changed to protect the privacy of my clients in all except the first example:

Caretaker health issues

More than a decade ago, my then-45-year-old brother had a series of major strokes from which he would never fully recover. He was placed in a long-term care facility where pets were allowed, but only if the resident could care for them, which my brother was unable to do. When my sisters and I visited Bill, he kept asking for his two well-loved Pomeranians. It broke my heart.

happy pomeranian

I tracked them down – they had been sent to a Pomeranian rescue group – and convinced the rescue (via a significant donation) to let me rehome the dogs with one of the staff at the facility. For many years she brought the dogs with her to work and Bill was able to keep them in his life. Although his dogs are gone now, other staff members continue to visit him with their dogs, knowing how much it means to him.

Wrong dog for the job

A good friend recently purchased an Australian Shepherd puppy from a breeder she thought she had carefully researched. Julie already had two adult dogs with behavioral issues that she had worked long and hard with, one adopted from a “no-kill” facility to save him from spending the rest of his life there. Although she’s been successful enough with her behavior modification work that she is able to compete with her two dogs in agility and rally obedience, she had her heart set on starting with a properly raised and socialized puppy who could grow up to be a really solid dog.

Imagine her dismay when the 10-week-old pup turned out to have significant fear behaviors – far greater than one should expect if he was simply going through a developmental fear period. After much soul-searching, she returned the pup to the breeder. Her decision to do so was sealed when, upon contacting the breeder to let her know of the pup’s behavior, the breeder advised her that she was trying to socialize him “too early.” This is a nonsensical excuse; it’s never too early for appropriate, carefully managed socializing (the critical socialization period is from 3 weeks to 14 weeks), and truly good breeders go to great lengths to provide this early socialization foundation.

Putting others at risk in the home

A client brought her just-adopted adolescent Border Collie-mix to see me because the young dog was acting very fearful of men. Linda had adopted Freddie (names changed) less than a month prior, and he already had seven biting incidents, including one bite that had broken skin. She has two small children in her home, but so far the dog had been relaxed and appropriate with kids. Freddie was a delightful dog with many good attributes, and Linda was committed to keeping him, if at all possible. We worked out a behavior modification program, and this exceptionally knowledgeable client went home, fully committed to working through her dog’s behavioral issues.

A week later during a stressful day in the home, Freddie bit one of the kids – twice. Although neither bite required medical attention, it was clear that he wasn’t safe in a home with children. Despite his bite history, the client was, fortunately, able to place Freddie in a dog-savvy home with no children.

Putting others at risk in society

A young couple adopted a dog a year ago from a “no-kill” group – a dog who, in my opinion, should not have been made available for adoption without first undergoing significant behavior modification. The couple, who were my clients, simply wanted a canine companion they could enjoy and share with friends and family. The Lab/Pit-mix they adopted was so defensively aggressive they were unable to have visitors at their home. If they tried to put him away in a “safe room” so they could enjoy their friends and family, the dog shrieked and became destructive – to his environment if he was left free in the room, and to himself if he was crated. After 10 months of dedicated behavior modification work, including medication for the dog, they sadly decided that neither they nor their dog was enjoying an acceptable quality of life, and chose to have him euthanized.

These rehomers are exceptional

Let me assure you that in my behavior practice these cases are the exception, not the rule. I am fortunate to be blessed with clients who are far above average in the commitment they make to their dogs. Their decisions to rehome are difficult, and invariably made only after much thought, discussion and angst. They are never made lightly by my clients, and never without considerable pain.

Rehoming a dog is a difficult decision

A client sent me an e-mail recently to tell me that she has been unable to implement our agreed-upon behavior modification program due to the full-time responsibility of caring for an elderly parent. Barb* said she is looking to rehome her dog. Bailey*, an otherwise delightful one-year-old Labrador Retriever, has mild-to-moderate dog-reactive behavior and separation distress, as well as the high energy level typical of an adolescent Lab. Barb has been bringing him to Peaceable Paws since puppy class. I was saddened to hear she was giving him up. It’s always sad for a dog, and the humans who know him, when the promise of a lifelong loving home falls through. (*Their names have been changed.)

Any one of these decisions can be irrevocable. Before giving  your dog up, be sure you’ve thought it through carefully and truly exhausted all your options for fulfilling the commitment you made to your dog when you adopted her. You don’t want this to be a decision you regret for the rest of your life – and hers.

I received another e-mail from Barb this morning. A family decision to place the parent in a long-term care facility has given Barb new resources, new energy, and a renewed commitment to work with Bailey. For now, he’s staying in his home. Cross your fingers.

 

Tips for Adopting an Adult Dog

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For a dog with such a demure name, Nora was, in the words of her new owner, purely awful. “There was not a thing that she got to that she did not destroy,” remembers Donna Hess of Basking Ridge, New Jersey, of the first few weeks with her newly adopted Basenji. “She ripped any pillow she could get to shreds, and then started on the comforters and blankets. She knocked over the garbage can 50 times a day. She chewed the other dogs’ collars off their necks. Tissues, toilet paper, knickknacks, throw rugs, small objects of all kinds were stolen or destroyed. Putting stuff up high did not help; she climbed all over the tables and counters. She literally could not be left alone for a second. And the worst thing was if you tried to catch her to confine her, she bit!”

Nora didn’t seem to want to interact with her new owners, refusing to make eye contact or respond to her name. Petting was out of the question. But at the same time, she had intense separation anxiety. “The minute she was alone, she pitched a holy fit, screaming and urinating in her crate, then destroying her bedding,” Hess remembers.

After weeks of this adoptive “Nora’easter,” Hess seriously contemplated returning her to the rescue group that had placed her. “I was making no progress whatsoever.”

While Nora is an extreme case, adopter’s remorse is hardly an uncommon phenomenon among those who bring an adult shelter, rescue, or foster dog into their lives and homes. Like any major life change, the adjustment period is not always pretty, and you can expect more than a few bumps along the way.

But there are many things you can do – or at least be aware of – that can make the process easier on both you and your new addition. With some hard work and more than a little patience from Hess, Nora eventually settled into her new home. And your dog can, too.

Great Expectations – The groundwork for a successful arrival starts well before your new dog’s paws hit the driveway (or the apartment lobby). Advance planning is always a good idea, and not just in terms of logistics, like figuring out where the dog will sleep or checking to be sure the house is sufficiently dog-proof.

Just as important – and frequently overlooked – is a once-over of your own emotions: You’ll need to manage your expectations about your new buddy, who at best may not be on the top of his game and at worst may be traumatized about being in an unfamiliar environment, no matter how cushy the digs or solicitous the humans.

“A lot of people expect their new dog to follow them everywhere, like a puppy would,” says certified applied animal behaviorist and author Patricia McConnell. “But unlike puppies, who almost always come with boundless enthusiasm, older dogs have no idea what is happening to them. A lot of them are in shock and are really sort of stunned.”

Like a second marriage, where both partners are fully formed individuals with their own life experiences and preferences, your relationship with your new dog is going to involve coming to terms with his “previous life.” You don’t know what baggage he is carrying, or what pushes his buttons. Decoding your dog’s reactions, habits, and world view will likely take some time.

“An important part of the process is understanding that you are bringing in an animal that has a history,” McConnell explains. “You may know some of it, but you may not know enough. Slowly let your dog become your dog. You’re trying to figure out who it is that you’ve got here.”

It’s About Time – Behaviorist Karen London, who with McConnell is the author of Love Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home, has observed that adopted dogs tend to come out of their shells during the “magic three” – the third day, the third week, and the third month.

Those junctures “seem to be major landmarks for a dog to reveal who he or she is,” London explains. For example, for the first couple of days in a new home, a normally happy-go-lucky pooch may be shy, timid, or aloof. By the third day, once she gets her bearings, she may regain most of the bounce in her step. Conversely, a dog whose reaction to the stress of relocation is to bark excessively may very likely calm down within a few days, once he’s acclimated to his surroundings.

At the third-week mark, London says she often notices more changes. Metaphorically, the honeymoon is over and the dog feels comfortable enough with the relationship to start leaving dirty underwear on the floor (or running off to her crate with it, as the case may be). And finally, after three months, if you are paying close enough attention, you may see still more evidence of your dog settling into her new role in your household, as if she is permitting herself to finally, freely exhale.

London notes that these timelines aren’t written in stone, but they do appear to be reliable patterns that many dogs follow when acclimating to their new homes.

Past Imperfect – One more point before we leave the pasts of these dogs behind: Do just that. While you need to recognize that your dog’s past informs her present, don’t get mired down in what she has been through to the point where it impedes where she is going.

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“See the dog, not the story,” wrote one visitor to McConnell’s blog. In other words, be careful not to romanticize your dog’s previous life.

“People often get lost in a dog’s story and get overwhelmed with compassion,” McConnell says. “There’s a feeling of ‘I know they’ve been abused, and I’ll make up for it by being extra sweet and loving all the time.’”

But instead of giving the dog a sense of safety and protection, this kind of uber-reassurance, without a set of clear and benevolent rules, often makes the situation worse.

In some respects, London sees a parallel with rescue dogs who have had a rough start and human beings who have had some sort of traumatic experience. “People who have been traumatized or assaulted or injured say, ‘See me – don’t just see what happened to me.’ And I think it’s the same thing with the dog.”

McConnell has a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel who was rescued from a commercial puppy mill. For most of her life, Tootsie “lived in a crate the size of a bread box, and had a litter every year, as far as we know,” she says. When Tootsie was rescued, her head was so severely infected it looked like a “cesspool,” McConnell remembers.

Today, Tootsie “is the happiest, friendliest dog, she loves everybody, and she’s even house trained,” McConnell says. Tootsie hasn’t been defined by her life story – you should want the same for your dog, too.

P Is For . . . Well, You Know –
If there is one Waterloo among adopters, it is housetraining – or, more specifically, the lack thereof.

“People hear the dog is housetrained at his foster home, and then the dog comes to their home and within 12 hours has peed all over the house,” McConnell says. “What is critical to understand is that dogs haven’t necessarily generalized houses. Just because they’re housetrained in the foster home doesn’t mean they’re housetrained in your house. This is one case where they are like puppies.”

Just as with an 8-week-old puppy, an adult adoptee benefits from consistency, plenty of opportunities to do the right thing, and being rewarded profusely for doing so. McConnell thinks one of the first things a dog should do when she arrives at her new home is to be walked on leash in her potty area. Being taken outside as often as physically possible also gives the dog a chance to eliminate in the right place.

“Some people are shocked that it takes them four days to house-train their dog,” McConnell muses. “But that’s an eyeblink compared to the time it takes to train a puppy.”

A Separate Peace – It’s of course natural and probably irresistible to want to lavish all your time and affection on your new dog as soon as she arrives. But trainer Denise Herman of Empire of the Dog in Brooklyn, New York, reminds that you should also build in some time for natural separation.

“You definitely want to bond with the dog, so it’s hard to put the dog away, but you can’t Velcro them to you for the first three days and then suddenly leave them,” she advises. “A lot times you’re stuck with a really ugly separation problem that could have been avoided if you had played it looser for the first couple of days.”

Herman advises “mixing it up a lot” – have the dog in and out of the crate (provided, of course, that she is crate-trained). She also recommends using lots of chew toys, which “tire them out mentally, not just physically, and build up focus. I ‘big heart’ chew toys so much!”

As with any new arrival, be cautious about triggering possessiveness over these new and valuable objects. “Resource guarding is one of the big ones I see change when dogs come out of shelter, often for the better, but sometimes for the worse,” Herman says. “Assume the dog hasn’t had many of [these high-value chew toys], and confine or supervise the dog when you give them.” If you do discover an issue, “try flooding the dog’s environment with them, and see if that helps,” she suggests. “If you lay it on thick, sometimes they decide it’s no big deal anymore.”

Running on Empty – You see the stories on Facebook and Internet email groups all the time: A newly adopted rescue suddenly bolts from his new home, and a frantic search begins.

McConnell points out that runaway rescues are not uncommon at all, and for good reason. “The dogs have no idea where home is, have no connection to their new human yet, and very well might have been terrified, traumatized, disoriented, or scared. One of the most common responses to fear is to run away. Why wouldn’t they?”

An ounce of prevention is the ideal prescription: Make sure your new dog has a microchip and an ID tag with your current cell phone number on it, from the first minute you take possession of the dog. Use baby gates to block exit doors that see a lot of traffic, particularly if you live in a home with small children who can’t be expected to police foot traffic as diligently as adults would. Before turning a dog out into a fenced yard, make sure all the gates are securely closed. McConnell reminds us that dogs are particularly good at going over, under and through obstacles, and at squeezing past openings that might seem far too small for them to escape through. “If you hear yourself saying, ‘I think it will be fine,’ that’s your clue that it probably won’t be,” she says.

Having the dog slip out of his collar is another concern. If you’re worried your dog might be a flight risk, Herman recommends “double-lockdown” – walking him with both a collar and a harness. She suggests a flat martingale collar, which is similar to a flat buckle collar but tightens when a dog pulls. Herman notes that she has seen some harnesses pull off entirely, so look for a brand that has a strap between the legs, like the Wiggles, Wags and Wiggles No Pull Harness (see wiggleswagswhiskers.com or call 866-944-9247).

Party Animal . . . Not – It should go without saying, but let’s say it anyway: The last thing your adopted dog needs is a huge welcome party to add to his sense of being overwhelmed. Keep visitors to a minimum the first few days – one person at a time, two maximum. “Stay low key and quiet and let your dog get her paws on the ground,” McConnell advises.

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Similarly, avoid trying or high-stress scenarios until the dog has been settled for a few weeks. McConnell recalls the client who adopted a huge Labrador Retriever and took him to obedience class the next day. The instructor told her to her wrap her arm around the dog to maneuver him into a particular position, and the dog “sunk his teeth into her and shook her like a rat,” McConnell recalls. “It not only injured her, but it injured her confidence and trust. The dog was put down that day. Who knows what would have happened had she waited two weeks to take him to that class?”

McConnell is quick to note that this is an isolated case, and that it is not a foregone conclusion that all rescue dogs will have behavioral problems. But the drumbeat to have all dogs be super-socialized and interacting with everyone and everything around them can be a prescription for disaster with some dogs – particularly those who are already in a state of stress and confusion. Be thoughtful about what contexts you put your dog in, particularly at the outset.

Though it’s one of the first things most people do with a new dog, McConnell also suggests rethinking a run to the vet’s office in those first fragile days. Certainly, if the dog is ill, needs treatment, or if there is any question about his health status, do not delay. But if the dog has already been vet-checked by the shelter or rescue group, and you are just going for a recheck, or to have some nails or grooming done, let a couple of weeks pass and then “go to the vet for a meet and greet,” McConnell advises. “Then they can literally do nothing but say, ‘Hi! What a cute dog!’ You only have one chance at a first impression.”

Walk this way – Similarly, London advises putting off that most iconic of canine-human endeavors: the walk around town.

Instead of being a gentle jaunt around the new neighborhood, for some rescue dogs a leashed walk can be “like taking them to the gladiator pit,” she says. While you might be in control of your dog, at least in terms of keeping him restrained with a leash, you most assuredly are not in control of the other people, animals and stimuli that might engage him.

“The average adopted dog is already on complete sensory overload – there’s no reason to add to that,” London says. So wait a few days to a week, once your dog has settled in a bit, before taking him on his first walk.

In the meantime, look for clues of potential issues around the house. “Hopefully you can see if the dog goes bananas when she sees kids walking by or charges at the window when she sees a truck,” London says. “That will give you some information: Which is more of a problem on a walk, trucks or kids?”

Less is more – Though it’s tempting to let your new dog have free run of the house – maybe not so tempting when you contemplate the Aubusson rug in the dining room – Herman recommends keeping him as close as possible. “A lot of people favor walking the dog around on a leash first, to see if he has any concept of what a house is,” she says. “Many a person has been surprised to see the dog leap up on the dining-room table.”

If the dog is crate trained, or willing to be crated, use that for times when you can’t supervise him directly. “Usually it’s a positive contract,” Herman says about the incentive for the dog to learn to like his crate. “Here’s a bone full of wet dog food; you can enjoy it in here, where it’s calm and quiet and soft and clean.”

McConnell adds that it’s “so much easier to expand the house than to close it down” once the dog has been given free rein. Restrict the dog to one or two dog-proofed rooms that he feels secure in, and then, as he proves himself, you can open up access to more rooms.

Don’t Panic – Easier said than done, but it may comfort you to know that even the pros have that moment of “What have I done?” when first incorporating that new dog into their household.

“I think the first three days are panic, panic, panic” – on the part of the human, that is, Herman says. “You think, ‘I’m in over my head, maybe I was too rash.’ Unless the dog is flat out Lassie, which is rare, you’re going to have barking or house-training accidents.”

Whatever you do, don’t go it alone. “Be open to the idea of seeking resources,” London urges. “A lot of knowledge, skill,  and experience go into making the transition as smooth as possible. Seek help, whether it’s a training or behavior professional, or rescue or foster people. I wish we didn’t all try to figure it out in a vacuum.”

And remember that the best view is the long one. Sometimes love is a bit of a battlefield until you work out a truce.

“It takes time to figure out how to live together,” McConnell reminds. “Figure it will take about a year until you can look back and go, ‘Wow, this dog is totally part of the family.’ ”

Nora, the bad-to-the-bone Basenji, is a case in point. Her owner sought out help from another savvy Basenji owner, and consistently ignoring Nora’s bad behavior led to a turn-around. Today, while Nora still has “bad days” and her own little quirks, “she flings herself into our laps whenever we sit down, and contentedly falls asleep,” Hess reports. “She is still a work in progress . . . but Nora is home.”

7 Separation Anxiety Myths

As a canine behavior specialist, I’ve seen my share of dogs over the years who suffered from separation anxiety. The vast majority of my clients have been able to modify their dog’s distress when left alone, and I felt confident in my knowledge of the issue. Then my husband and I adopted a two-year-old Husky-mix from our local shelter, and everything changed.

Sierra didn’t exhibit the classic signs of separation anxiety, namely, destruction, urination and/or defecation, and vocalization. We’d leave her loose in the house alone and return to find everything intact, no mess, and no complaints from the neighbors about noise. I never would have suspected there was a problem except that when I was gone, even for short periods, I’d find her panting heavily. It wasn’t due to hot weather – we adopted her in late December – so I set up a video camera to monitor her activity.

Here’s what I discovered: Immediately after my departure, Sierra began pacing between the window where she could see my car pull out, and the French doors, where she could view it disappearing down the hill to the main road. The vocalizing that accompanied the pacing went from soft whimpering to a pronounced series of whines, and soon turned into barking. The barks became more urgent. Finally, she melted into a series of pitiful howls. Reviewing the footage tore at my heart. My girl was clearly suffering.

Donning my red cape, I instantly morphed from Dog Mom into Behavior Woman, able to solve tall canine conundrums in a single leap of logic. I used the same types of solutions that had worked for many of my clients, while simultaneously ensuring that Sierra was never left alone unless we were practicing our protocols.

But it soon became obvious that Sierra just hadn’t read the right books; she not only didn’t show typical symptoms, but she also didn’t respond to many of the things that normally worked. My red cape obviously needed some sprucing up.

Living with a dog who has separation issues is very different than giving someone else advice about doing so, and I soon developed deep empathy for owners. I also became a one-woman research and development team. I scoured the latest studies, read and re-read all the available literature, and tried out a variety of tools and techniques.

I eventually redesigned parts of my protocols, created outside-the-box tactics and, eventually, wrote a book about separation anxiety, Don’t Leave Me! Step by Step Help for Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety (Phantom Publishing,  2011). Along the way, I discovered that some of the long-held, traditionally accepted truths about separation issues just aren’t valid, at least for some dogs.

Here are seven common myths, and why you shouldn’t take them at face value:

velcro dog
© Cynoclub | Dreamstime.com

1. Dogs Who Have Separation Anxiety are Always “Velcro” Dogs

This is a term commonly used for dogs who stick close by your side, not wanting to be away from you even for a moment. It’s true that many dogs with separation issues follow their owners around the house. Some owners can’t shower in peace, while others can’t even use the bathroom without taking their dogs in with them. And a 2001 study by Gerard Flannigan and Nicholas Dodman did find that hyperattachment to the owner was significantly associated with separation anxiety. With all of that, it makes sense to believe that all dogs with separation issues must be Velcro dogs.

Sierra shattered that particular myth for me. A true predator at heart, she enjoys nothing better than lying on the ramp outside the back door and surveying her domain. The hills that surround our house are plentiful with lizards, mice, bunnies, and other assorted critters. Sierra is very patient and lightning fast, and more than once I’ve found her with a hapless lizard hanging out of her mouth. (I keep threatening to sign her up for Predators Anonymous, but so far my warnings haven’t been heeded.) Suffice it to say that following me around the house is pretty boring compared to watching over her Wild Kingdom, and she’d prefer to be outside; that is, as long as she knows I’m in the house. Once she hears the car pull away it’s game over, and the stress of separation kicks in.

Sierra’s not the only one. There are plenty of other dogs who, while they might not be strongly predatory, are just fine in or outside the house a long as they know someone is at home. So don’t jump to conclusions. If your dog follows you around like drama follows Lindsay Lohan, it could be separation anxiety, but it’s not necessarily the case. And if your dog doesn’t shadow your every move, that doesn’t mean separation issues can be ruled out, either.

dog sleeping in bed
© Toshket | Dreamstime.com

2. Letting Your Dog Sleep in Your Bed Will Cause Separation Anxiety

I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve heard trainers advise owners not to allow their dogs to sleep with them, for fear the dog would become so bonded that being left alone would become unbearable. Nothing could be further from the truth. The above-referenced study also concluded that “activities such as allowing the dog on the owner’s bed . . . were not associated with separation anxiety.”

While it’s true that sleeping in the owner’s bed won’t cause separation anxiety, if your dog already suffers from the issue, all of that nighttime closeness won’t help. After all, the goal is for your dog to learn to feel relaxed when alone, and if he can’t even be physically separated from you overnight, how can he remain calm by himself during the day when you’re gone? Start by giving your dog an alternate sleeping space. Don’t worry; it can be right by your bed at first. Place a dog bed next to yours and gently coax your dog back into his own bed each time he tries to climb up into yours; or, if necessary, use a short leash to tether him in place nearby. You might eventually choose to have him sleep farther away or outside the room altogether, but getting him out of your bed is a good start.

dog not eating
© Victorass88 | Dreamstime.com

3. If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety, He Won’t Eat While You’re Gone

Think back to a situation where you were extremely worried or afraid. Chances are, a tasty pizza wasn’t the first thing on your mind. For many stressed-out dogs, the same mechanism is at work. But chewing provides stress relief for dogs, and in many cases, despite their stress, dogs will excavate stuffed Kongs, gnaw on chew bones, or work at food-dispensing toys. If you stuff a Kong or other food dispenser for your dog, place the item within easy reach and lay out a short trail of super yummy treats leading to it. This trail o’ treats is more likely to entice your dog to begin chewing than leaving the Kong lying there by itself.

Some dogs are too wound up to stay in one place to chew. For those dogs, a food dispenser that can be batted around, such as the Molecuball or Kong Wobbler, is a better choice. These products allow the dog to expend that anxious energy in a more active way, and by providing that focus, may even prevent destruction.

Schnauzer destroyed couch
© Maximilian100 | Dreamstime.com

4. If Your Dog Destroys Things While You’re Away, He Must Have Separation Anxiety

I once had an owner tell me that his dog was suffering from separation anxiety. When I asked how he knew, he said he’d discussed it with his veterinarian, who had put the dog on medication. I asked how the problem had been diagnosed. What were the symptoms? The dog, he informed me, had chewed a shoe while he was gone. I waited. And? Well…that was it. The dog had destroyed a shoe. The man had heard that dogs with separation anxiety chew things, had put two and two together, and had, with the veterinarian’s assistance, come to this conclusion. While it’s true that destructiveness is the number one symptom of separation anxiety, many dogs are destructive for other reasons, including boredom, under-stimulation, or not being completely trained.

In cases of true separation anxiety, destruction is often focused on the owner’s belongings, since the scent is comforting to the dog, or around doors and windows where the owner has left or can be seen leaving. Destruction of other items is possible, of course, but again, destructiveness in and of itself is not necessarily a sign of a separation issue. As with other clues, it must be factored in to the total case history.

two dogs
© Fantasticrabbit | Dreamstime.com

5. Getting Another Dog Will Solve the Problem

Oh, if only this one was always true! Whether getting a second dog will alleviate the anxiety of the first depends largely on whether the original dog’s distress stems from being separated from a particular person (what we typically think of as separation anxiety), or from simply not wanting to be left alone, which is more accurately called isolation distress. In the case of the latter, any warm body will do.

That’s good news, as the problem might be solved by the presence of a different person, another dog, or, in some cases, even a cat. So for a dog with isolation distress, getting another dog certainly could help; but there is always the chance that it won’t; and, in the worst-case scenario, you could end up with two dogs with separation issues!

Unless you were planning to add another dog to the family anyway, it’s better to do a bit of experimenting first. Consider fostering a dog for a rescue organization or borrowing a friend’s sturdy, non-anxious dog for a short time. That way, you’ll find out whether your dog is more relaxed with a buddy while you’re gone. (Just be careful to end the experiment if your dog makes the guest dog anxious.) Who knows, if it works out, you might even decide to adopt the foster dog permanently!

dog in crate
© Jagodka | Dreamstime.com

6. A Dog with Separation Anxiety Should Never be Left in a Crate When Alone

This one is another partial myth. There are dogs who, if left crated, will frantically try to escape, and may injure themselves in the process. Others will chew themselves to the point of self-mutilation. Clearly, for those dogs, crating is not a good option. But for a dog who is comfortable in her crate, who sleeps in it at night, and doesn’t mind being contained there for brief periods during the day, the crate might just be a saving grace. Many dogs will settle down more quickly when crated, particularly if the crate lends a feeling of being safely enclosed. For that reason among others, I prefer the plastic snap-together type crates to the wire ones.

7. If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety, It’s Best to Ignore Him While You’re at Home

This one was probably an extrapolation of the traditional advice to ignore your dog for 10 minutes before leaving the house, and for 10 minutes after returning. The logic goes that the less difference in emotional peaks and valleys between when you’re at home and when you’re gone, the easier it will be for the dog. But I didn’t get a dog to ignore him, and I bet you didn’t either. Besides, imagine that your significant other suddenly began to ignore you. Wouldn’t you wonder what you’d done wrong? Would you not become anxious and stressed even if you weren’t to begin with? Dogs are masters of observation and believe me, if you suddenly start to ignore your dog, chances are you’ll cause more anxiety, not less. It is true that you shouldn’t make a huge fuss over your comings and goings, but keeping things on an even keel emotionally is the key.

Treat the Individual

If your dog has separation anxiety, keep these myths in mind. While some might hold true, others just might not. Closely observing your dog’s behavior and evaluating it on an individual basis will allow your treatment plan to be that much more successful.

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Dog Got Skunked? DON’T Use Water (At Least, Not at First)

One of my friends posted on Facebook the other day, “What works best for skunk spray? Pepper got skunked right before we were leaving for work!” (She gets to bring her dog to work – usually!)

I immediately responded: “Don’t wash her!” And my friend responded just as quickly, “Too late! Why?”

I guess a blog is a good place to be repetitive. We’ve covered this in WDJ and maybe on the blog before, but I guess one can’t say it enough:

If your dog gets hit with skunk spray, DO NOT wash him with water (or tomato juice or anything else). Get thee to a bottle of hydrogen peroxide! And box of baking soda!

Chemist Paul Krebaum gets the credit for applying his chemistry knowledge to the age-old need for a substance that can neutralize the smell of skunk spray. He researched the putrid oil (which skunks can shoot out of special glands under their tails as a potent defense mechanism) and determined that the chemical responsible for the distinctive odor was in a class called thiols. The human nose is extremely sensitive to these organosulfur compounds, and can detect them at 10 parts per billion. But if you subject the substance to just the right compound, you can inactivate the chemicals responsible for the odor, as fast as a chemical reaction can occur.

Krebaum came up with a formula – a quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide and a ¼ cup of baking soda – that would alter the thiols in skunk spray and render them odorless. He recommends using fresh peroxide (not an old bottle that’s been open for years). Stir together in a bucket or large bowl – NOT a bottle, as the mixture will bubble and produce gas bubbles (which could cause a plastic bottle to explode). A teaspoon or two of dishwashing liquid (such as Dawn) is added to make it easier to distribute the mix evenly through the dog’s hair.

He recommends you wet the dog thoroughly with the mixture, down to the skin. Be careful not to get any in your dog’s eyes (or cuts) however; it stings! I’ve used a sponge before to thoroughly wet my dog’s face without getting it in his eyes. (You can also put a sterile lubricant eye ointment – such as Artificial Tears — in your dog’s eyes first, which will help protect them from being stung by any of the mixture.)

After the dog is thoroughly wet, you shouldn’t be able to smell the skunk spray any more. If you can still smell it, you haven’t gotten every bit of the skunk oil wet with the mixture. Once the odor is neutralized, rinse the mixture off. I usually follow this rinse with a regular shampoo bath; even though you can’t smell the skunk spray any more, it’s still oily and a shampoo will help get it off the dog’s fur.

If you FIRST washed the dog with water (or tomato juice, or some other home remedy), sorry, this approach won’t be as effective as it could be. Water also affects the thiols, making the stinky substance resistant to being chemically neutralized.

I’m sure I’m butchering the language of chemistry in trying to explain this. For a technically correct chemistry lesson on how this mixture works, see Paul Krebaum’s website: http://home.earthlink.net/~skunkremedy/home/sk00003.htm

And for the basic recipe and directions from Mr. Krebaum, see his FAQ page: http://home.earthlink.net/~skunkremedy/home/sk00001.htm

Choosing The Right Harness for Your Dog

Harnesses for our canine companions come in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. But did you know that many are made for a particular purpose? Have a dog you want to pull you on your skis? Got it. Have a puller – and you’d like a respite? Covered. Have a little dog? The possibilities are endless. Despite that fact, many of us walk into our local big box pet store and pull a harness off the rack without even considering the harness’ fit and function. With just a little more awareness, you can be sure that the harness you select for your dog is the right one.

Photo by David Waehner

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Harnesses were originally created for the purpose of pulling – i.e., sleds, carts, freight, tracking, etc. Despite the fact that some harnesses can actually encourage a dog to pull due to the harness’ design and good old opposition reflex, a harness is a piece of equipment many of us, today, have in our dog equipment toolbox. Harnesses can be used for:
– An alternative to a collar
– To facilitate pulling activities
– Canine sports
– Little dogs (who might need to be picked up quickly)
– Assisting a dog with mobility
– Automobile restraint systems
– Working (service, police, etc.)

While some harnesses can cross over or serve more than one purpose, most should be considered single purpose. For example, you wouldn’t attach a dog seat belt to a front clip/no pull harness. The following are a few broad categories into which many harnesses fall, although the list is not exhaustive.

Traditional Harnesses
If you’re looking for an alternative to a collar due to your dog’s anatomy, medical condition, or you just don’t like the idea of a collar on your dog’s neck, your best bet is a simple harness that has the leash attachment on the back of the harness. Typically these harnesses have the following connected pieces: a neck piece that fits around the dog’s neck, almost like a collar; a piece that runs under the dog’s chest (in some models this is mesh, fabric, or lightly padded); and a piece around the belly. This type of harness is a good choice if your dog walks nicely on leash or you are committed to teaching him to do so, or if your dog is small.

For an everyday harness, comfort and proper fit are important. Look for a harness that doesn’t restrict the dog’s movement in any way – including his front legs and shoulders – and that has padding if/where needed. The material and stitching should be durable enough for daily use. Straps and clips should not dig into or chafe the dog’s skin.

How does the harness go on? Does your dog have to step into it? Is she physically able and willing to do so? Or does it slip over her head? Also, pay attention to the security of its fit; dogs who are really determined or creative can quickly learn to back out of some harnesses. For example, sled dogs use a neck line that attaches from their collar to the centerline of their pulling harnesses to prevent this, while other types of harnesses come with a girth strap (strap around the belly).

According to Christine Zink, DVM, PhD, DACVP, DACVSMR, a well-fitted, traditional style harness that allows free limb movement “…transfers the point of stress to the dog’s sternum, which then transfers pressure throughout the sternum, ribs, and to the vertebrae, all of which makes a very solid structure to support the dog’s weight if it does pull, while still allowing the dog’s front legs to move freely.”
Some examples of good traditional harnesses include the Sure-Fit, Walkeez, and Urban Trails. While pet supply chain stores might have what you need, generally, you can find a better selection from independent pet supply stores and online specialty retailers.

Best for:
– Walking and running on leash, particularly if your dog doesn’t pull
– Some dog sports (i.e., tracking, nose work)
– Dogs whose anatomy or a medical condition mandate the use of a harness
– Collar alternative
– Small dogs

Should NOT be used for:
– Dogs who pull on leash (if your goal is that the dog not pull)
– Pulling tasks

Note: If you use a harness in lieu of a collar, be sure you have an ID tag attached. Tags that lay flat, such as the Adjustable Collar Tag by Boomerang, work well on harnesses.

Pulling Harnesses
Harnesses that are designed for the job of pulling need to fit perfectly, be comfortable for the dog, and include padding, particularly in the neck area. Care must be taken that undue pressure is not put on sensitive parts of the dog’s body that could chafe over time, nor in areas that would restrict her movement. Material considerations are important, depending on the activity and whether the harness will get wet frequently.

Photo courtesy Nordkyn Outfitters

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Pulling harnesses come in two basic styles: those with a fitted neck (siwash) and those with a breast band. Nordkyn Outfitters specializes in pulling harnesses, including custom gear; all of its harnesses have fitted necks. According to company owner Jane Riffle, who has been making harnesses since 1983, “The breast band harnesses (straps running horizontally across the chest) are easier to fit but are quite restrictive since they usually cross about the point of the dog’s shoulder.”

(Continued on Page 2)

Nordkyn’s website notes that getting the correct size of harness is critical, as is neck design and padding. The neck should fit snugly around the dog’s shoulders, distributing the weight evenly. If it’s too large, the harness will slip, rub, or interfere with movement; too small, and it will cut, bruise, or choke. Padding keeps webbing from cutting or chafing the dog, and provides some cushion to prevent bruising.

Riffle adds that the weight of the load the dog is expected to pull, and at what speed and distance, are equally important factors in pulling harness selection. Across the board, though, “the harness should allow the dog to lower his head, throw his shoulders into the harness, and drive with his rear.” While some models might have a clip on the back of the harness, most have side clips to which the load is attached via traces. Harnesses for pulling are best sourced from a company that specializes in this type of equipment.

Best for:
– Sports involving the pulling of weight such as mushing, skijoring, carting, and freight pull
– Activities such as nose work and tracking (certain models)

Should NOT be used for:
– Walking, particularly for dogs who pull on leash
– Other sports that don’t require the dog to pull in some fashion
– As a collar alternative
– no-pull harnesses

As the name implies, no-pull harnesses are designed to reduce the dog’s ability to pull on-leash. In many models, the leash attachment clips to the front of the harness (dog’s chest area), while others use a back clip. Some designs accomplish a cessation of pulling by causing discomfort or pain to the dog, while others (such as the Easy Walk) do so by giving a mechanical/leverage advantage to the owner. We prefer the latter type.

Additional features on some models (such as the Halti Dog Harness) include rings on both the chest and back sections. This allows the handler to clip the leash onto the back to use the harness in a more traditional style (although the harness strap still crosses the dog’s chest and is therefore restrictive), or to use a double clip leash on the front and back of the harness simultaneously.

It’s critical to carefully size and fit no-pull harnesses. We see great benefit in using no-pull harnesses while teaching dogs how to walk politely on-leash, but encourage owners to set a goal of weaning their dogs off no-pull harnesses. Because all of these harnesses restrict the dog’s movement in some way, it is imperative that they be removed for vigorous exercise (such as jogging or while at the dog park). Consider getting assistance from a qualified positive dog trainer regarding selection, fitting, and proper usage.

Best for:
– Training your dog not to pull
– Handlers who require extra control (small handler with a large dog, children, seniors, etc.)

Should NOT be used for:
– Restraining a dog in a vehicle
– Use during play
– Running or vigorous exercise
– Pulling tasks
– K9 sports/activities

Assistive harnesses
These harnesses, like pulling harnesses, are meant to do a job, so proper fit and comfort are key considerations. An assistive harness should not impede the dog’s movement in any way. Typically meant for lifting the dog (by a person), the harness should have a wide coverage area for doing so, to avoid putting undue pressure on a small area of the dog’s body. Handles should be firmly attached and appropriately placed and padded so as to allow the handler to safely assist the dog.

Photo by David Waehner

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For dogs with mobility issues, the harness and its clips should be well padded. RuffWear’s Web Master and Doubleback harnesses can do double duty as harnesses for active dogs and small dogs, as well as for dogs who are mobility impaired, while the Help ’Em Up harness is an example of a two-handled harness designed for dogs requiring physical assistance.

Note: Just because a harness has a handle, as some sport harnesses do, does not mean that it is appropriate for lifting. If your dog has serious mobility issues, we recommend that you seek the assistance of a rehabilitation veterinarian or a professional certified in canine rehabilitation to assist with the selection, measurement and fitting of a harness. (See the March and August 2011 issues of WDJ for more on assistive equipment.)

Best for:
– Dogs with mobility impairments
– Geriatric dogs
– Lifting dogs
– Restraining dogs in vehicles (depending on the harness model)
– Walking, running, hiking, and some K9 sports

Should NOT be used for:
– Dog-dog play
– Pulling tasks

Car Restraint Harnesses
Recent press about results from canine automotive restraint crashworthiness testing performed by the Center for Pet Safety showed that four harnesses tested failed (actually, one harness did not fail but the seat belt length was too long, allowing the dog “dummy” to hit the back of the front seat).

Despite the negative results, a case can still be made that it’s safer for a dog to ride restrained via a harness and dog “seat belt” than to ride free, if only to reduce the distraction that dogs can be to drivers. While standards for dog automotive restraints need to be set, it’s nonetheless important for an automotive dog restraint harness to be well padded, particularly in the chest area; comfortable; and to have a proper fit. Measure and choose wisely.

Photo courtesy Nordkyn Outfitters

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Best for:
– Restraining dog in a vehicle

Should NOT be used for:
– Pulling tasks
– Dog sports
– Every day use

Purpose-driven design
Whatever the purpose for which you’ll be using a harness, it’s important to consider fit, function, comfort, and durability. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for sizing and fitting the harness and select a harness that’s appropriate for your dog’s activity. Whatever you do, don’t choose a harness only because the hot pink paisley print matches your favorite shorts!

Lisa Rodier is a freelance writer from Georgia, who shares her home with her husband and a young male Bouvier des Flandres.

The No-Pull Harness Debate

[Updated November 15, 2017]

Recently, WDJ received a letter from Christine Zink, DVM, PhD, DACVP, DACVSMR, who was concerned about the photo in WDJ (on the cover, no less!) of a jogger whose dog, running alongside, was wearing a front-clip-type harness.  A sports medicine guru and canine athlete enthusiast, Dr. Zink (and others) posit that no-pull harnesses are detrimental to a dog’s structure and gait – and are especially inappropriate for canine athletes.

no pull harness

In a limited gait analysis study, Dr. Zink observed that dogs wearing no-pull, front clip harnesses bore less weight on their front legs than they normally would – even when the harness wasn’t attached to a leash! In addition, the dogs bore less weight on the leg that was on the far side of where the person walked, even when there was no leash attached; when the dog had a leash attached, it was more significant. This suggests to her that the dog was reacting to the presence of the harness against the leg by pushing harder against it. In all cases, the gait of the front limbs was altered whenever the harness was on.

Dr. Zink explains that these harnesses sit on top of the biceps and supraspinatus tendons, two of the most commonly injured structures in dogs’ forelimbs, particularly in canine athletes. She asserts that, just by logic, one has to assume that the pressure this kind of harness exerts on the dog’s forelimbs in an activity where the dog is supposed to be extending her forelimbs (i.e., running, walking), is not a good idea.

“I do not believe that there is a harness on the market that is nonrestrictive and that also helps the dog not to pull,” says Dr. Zink.” There are however some very nice, well constructed, nonrestrictive harnesses on the market. However, those should not be considered as a method to teach a dog not to pull. In my opinion the real way to get a dog to stop pulling is to train it.”

Taking another position altogether are the thousands of dog trainers and behaviorists who contend that no-pull harnesses save lives, because by giving handlers a mechanical advantage over the dog, they help people who have been unable to train their dogs (for whatever reasons) to walk politely, to walk their dogs anyway.  

puppy in harness

Whole Dog Journal Training Editor Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, comments, “I am a dog trainer/behavior professional with a very specialized concern about helping dogs be well-mannered companions to their humans. I agree that the way to get a dog to stop pulling is to train it. No-pull harnesses provide, in my experience, the least harmful way to give many owners the window of opportunity to reinforce -and thereby train – polite leash walking. An owner can’t train a dog to walk on leash if she is getting dragged off her feet. I will continue to use front-clip harnesses and recommend them to clients, at least until someone comes up with an even safer non-aversive alternative.”

Like so many of our equipment choices, there are cases for and against using a front-clip or other no-pull harness. Each of us must consider the benefits and risks, and make an educated decision based on what is best for us and our own dogs.

Peacekeeping Among Cats and Dogs

[Updated October 19, 2017]

It’s fairly common for dogs to be placed for adoption with a caveat that there should be “no cats,” “no small animals,” or “no livestock” in their new homes. These warnings are usually based on observations of the dog while he spent time in a shelter or rescue, or on the dog’s history in his most recent home. While they are meant to prevent a tragedy, especially in the home of a well-meaning but not very experienced owner, the warnings can scare away committed owners who are willing and capable of addressing the dog’s predatory leanings. Here’s the story of one very determined couple who helped their new dog get past her cat-chasing past and go on to share her hearth with a pair of kitties.

multi species household

Ken and Sue Johnson love German Shepherd Dogs and are very aware of the pet overpopulation problem. So it made sense, when their senior Shepherd died of old age, to adopt their next canine companion from a rescue group. They contacted a German Shepherd rescue, and adopted five-year-old black-and-tan Sara.

The rescue staff informed them that Sara, seized in a neglect case, had lived with cats in her previous home, so they felt confident taking her home to meet their senior cat. Much to their dismay, they discovered that while Sara may have lived with cats before, it probably wasn’t a harmonious relationship. When we met for our first behavior modification session they said, “We had a cat when we first brought Sara home. She chased the cat upstairs where he stayed for the next two months until he passed away.”

The Johnsons love cats, and were aching to adopt a bonded pair, to fill the void left by their last cat’s passing. Wisely, however, they didn’t want to subject two new cats to constant harassment by an aroused dog dedicated to terrorizing the felines. They asked if I could help Sara learn to get along with cats. I said we could try, and they signed up for a series of private behavior modification consults. The Johnsons were committed to keeping Sara whether we succeeded or not. They really wanted cats in their home, but were prepared to remain catless if we couldn’t make it work.

Finding a Good Feline Participant

We have three cats in the Miller household. Although they live with our own four dogs, I knew that Blue and Viva wouldn’t take kindly to participating in behavior modification sessions with a rowdy German Shepherd. Barney, however, is unflappable, and thus was drafted to be our “neutral cat.”

On the day of the Johnson’s first scheduled session in mid-December of 2012, I brought Barney out to the training center and placed him in a covered exercise pen, with a blanket over the top so he couldn’t leap out. We wanted him confined for his own safety, as well as to minimize his movement to help keep Sara’s arousal level low. I put an open carrier inside so Barney had a place to hide if he felt threatened by Sara. The stage was set and we waited for the Johnsons to arrive.

Cross-Species Relationships

While canines and felines are notorious for “fighting like cats and dogs,” they are not the only potential “mixed-family” challenge. Dogs who are not well socialized to other species can pose a threat to many other companion animals, from small rodents to rabbits, fish, birds, ferrets, pigs, goats, sheep, horses, and everything in between.

My modification protocol of choice for introducing a dog to a new species is classical conditioning: giving the dog a positive association with the new creature, while at the same time managing (with a leash, crate, baby gate, closed door, etc.) so said dog never learns the joy of chasing said (insert your species of choice here) in your home. Because classical and operant conditioning work together, at the same time your dog is creating a healthy association with your new furred, finned, or feathered family member (Cockatiels make pieces of delicious chicken appear!) he is also learning a new behavior (If I sit by my human’s side when the cockatiel is present I can make her feed me pieces of chicken!).

If you’re proactive with your introductions – and if your dog didn’t come to you with a lot of practice at chasing other animals – you can often create harmony in your household in a short time with reasonable effort.

If, however, you have a dog like Sara who already has an unhealthy predator/prey or other predatory association with other species, you’ll have to work hard to counter-condition (change) and desensitize her association and related behavior. Counter-conditioning is a “subset” of classical conditioning.

Classical conditioning is my preferred choice for many protocols because it is relatively easy to do well – easier for most of my clients, in my experience, than other options such as BAT and CAT (see “Other Modification Protocol Options,” below), and because I have had great success using it in a wide variety of behavior modification programs. I’ve seen it work well for everything from nail trimming and touch sensitivity, fear of cars and dog reactivity, resource guarding and fear-related aggression, to my own Scottish Terrier’s desire to maul Viva, the eight-week-old kitten we brought into our home 11 years ago.

Counter-Conditioning for Cat Tolerance – SESSION 1

The Johnsons arrived for their scheduled appointment, and after a brief discussion about the plan, we set to work. We initially introduced Sara to Barney-in-the-pen at a distance of 40 feet. I find that to be a good average threshold distance for most of my clients’ dogs in the presence of their arousal-causing stimuli. Not Sara! When she saw a cat 40 feet away she went immediately “over threshold” – ignoring food (venison instead of chicken, due to Sara’s food allergies), whining and aroused, trying to drag Susan toward the pen.

We backed up to 60 feet and tried again. At this increased distance Sara was able to begin working, and quickly made the association between the sight of Barney and receiving venison treats. Before long, she would look at Barney and quickly look back to Ken for her treat. This swift development of a conditioned emotional response (CER) gave us hope for success, despite her initial intense reaction to the sight of the cat in the pen. By the end of the session, Sara was able to be within 25 feet of Barney’s pen, with a relaxed, soft body language and expression.

Since the Johnsons didn’t have access to an accommodating Barney-style cat at home, I sent them off for two weeks to practice counter-conditioning Sara using the squirrels in her neighborhood – another source of high arousal for the dog.

SESSION 2

Improvement at the next session was slow but obvious. We started this session at a distance of 50 feet and ended 20 feet away from Barney in his pen. In fact, for the most part, Sara was far more interested in Ken and her venison than she was in Barney. We incorporated Leslie McDevitt’s “Look At That” (LAT) exercise so we could operantly cue Sara to look at Barney in order to get treats and continue strengthening the association between see-cat-and-receive-venison.

two cats at window

We added in “relax” sessions, moving 60 feet away from Barney and asking Sara to lie quietly at Ken and Susan’s feet. We continued to feed venison if she looked at Barney, but also reinforced her just for settling and relaxing. We wanted her to understand she could just “hang” in the vicinity of a cat without always expecting action. Susan reported that Sara was becoming much less aroused when she saw squirrels on their walks. I suggested the Johnson’s purchase a realistic-looking  stuffed cat so they could practice CC&D with Sara in their home, in addition to their work with squirrels.

Sara had also been diagnosed with hypothyroidism and was on medication for this condition. The adjustment to her thyroid levels was doubtless contributing to her behavioral improvement.

SESSIONS 3-5

In the third session, we were able to consistently close the distance to 25 feet, getting good CERs, using the LAT cue to get Sara to look at Barney when needed, and interspersing “relax” periods in between the CC&D work. This session we taught Sara an operant “Find it!” exercise, so we would have a tool to refocus her if she appeared close to threshold.

Sara continued to show marked improvement in the next two sessions. We closed the distance to two feet, with Ken sitting on the floor between the dog and cat and petting them both. As proof that Sara was becoming non-threatening, Barney moved freely around his pen and even reached through the wires toward Ken. This sparked a little interest from Sara, but didn’t send her over threshold.

As he was sitting on the floor between Sara and Barney, Ken looked at me and said quietly, “I never thought we would be able to do this.” His heartfelt comment brought tears to my eyes.

Time for a serious discussion about where to proceed from here. I had begun reaching out to all my trainer contacts, looking for a bonded pair of cats in need of a home, and who grew up with dogs so they wouldn’t be put off by a dog who might become over-excited by their presence. We scheduled our next session at the Johnson home; Barney would be going on a field trip so Sara could practice her newly found calm skills in the presence of a cat in her own home.

SESSIONS 6-10

We did five sessions with Barney at the Johnsons’ home. Sara was, indeed, aroused at the first introduction to a cat in her own home. The Johnsons’ house is significantly smaller than our training center, and we had only about 20 feet maximum distance to put between the cat and dog where they could both still see each other. We set up Barney’s pen near the front door, by the stairs, and brought Sara in from the backyard.

aggravated cat

Sara heard Barney meow before she saw him, and was instantly excited, whining and pulling toward the sound. Ken fed her until she calmed, and we moved her into view of Barney. With continued CC&D it took about 20 minutes for her to settle on her bed. We started implementing the Karen Overall Protocol for Relaxation – a procedure that teaches a dog to remain calm while the owner very gradually moves away from the dog. We didn’t want Sara to have to be right next to Ken and Susan the entire time cats were in the house. We also practiced “relax,” encouraging Sara to lie calmly on her side with her head down.

Session 10 was in mid-April, four months after we started working with Sara. She was now able to remain quite calm with Barney moving around freely in the pen. At this session we again had Ken sitting on the floor between dog and cat, and decided to risk going one step further and allow Sara to sniff Barney.

Sara greeted Barney calmly and politely, but to our surprise and dismay, Barney reacted with a loud hiss, and swatted Sara on the nose. Happily, Sara took the reprimand calmly, without any sign of arousal. She had just graduated from get-along-with-cat-school – with honors. Ken, Susan, and I looked at each other, delighted and amazed. “She’s as ready as she’ll ever be,” I said. Ken nodded.

I had located a trainer with a pair of cats who sounded like they met our needs perfectly. “I’ll call her,” Ken said.

Introducing the Household Cats

Ken and Susan met with my acquaintence and the two long-haired black cat brothers, Ralphie and Randy, and brought the cats home. We had agreed that the cats would stay safely stashed in a bedroom until our next session, when I could help with the introduction.

A week later I arrived for the big moment. Ken and Susan had been letting the cats roam the house whenever Sara was in the back yard, so she was familiar with their scent, and the cats made plenty of noise as they romped together in their bedroom, so she had heard them playing. We placed Ralph and Randy in the exercise pen that the Johnsons had purchased, and we brought Sara in.

Sara was curious but calm, and began offering CERs in less than three minutes. She easily went and laid down on her bed on cue, and didn’t become aroused when Ralph and Randy started to wrestle on their cat tree. After a thirty-minute session of CERs and relaxation, we invited Randy and Ralph back upstairs to their bedroom and breathed a collective sigh of relief. All was going according to plan.

I had one prepaid session left with the Johnsons. The plan was for them to continue controlled interaction daily between Sara and the cats for a couple of weeks – more concentrated now that they had their own cooperative cats to work with. However, changes in my schedule interfered, and it was a full month before I could come back for our final session at the end of May. I called the day before to confirm our appointment.

“How are things going?” I asked Susan when she answered the phone.

“We have an integrated household!” she exclaimed happily.

Although the plan had been to not allow free interaction until I was there to assist, Ralphie, the bolder of the cat brothers, had other plans. Several days before my scheduled visit he made a break for the bedroom door when Susan went in to feed him, and dashed down the stairs to the living room where Sara was resting. It was a non-event. All the Johnson’s hard work had paid off in spades. When I arrived for our final session all we had to do was sit and smile as we watched Sara, Ralphie, and Randy amicably sharing their living space.

Dogs and Other Species

The same CC&D technique that worked for Sara, Ralphie, and Randy can work equally well for conditioning your dog to get along with other species. A lot of our clients’ dogs are startled to meet horses for the first time they come to our property, and react to these monster-sized (to them) aliens by barking or even lunging at them. After a few “horses-make-chicken-happen” associations, most dogs behave appropriately around the horses, seeing them as a source of chicken rather than as threat or prey. I’ve even successfully counter conditioned a dog who had an unhealthy intensity about fish in an aquarium to live peacefully with his aquatic family members.

dog people

The Johnsons were successful in integrating cats into their home with the previously cat-reactive Sara for several reasons. Attention to these same factors will increase your likelihood of success regardless of what other species you might want to introduce into your household:

Short-Term Management – The Johnsons managed Sara’s environment so she wasn’t regularly reinforced for chasing cats or other small animals. Behaviors that are reinforced repeat and increase. It is well-nigh impossible to modify an unwanted behavior if the dog is allowed to repeatedly practice the behavior and be reinforced for it.

Whether fish, feline, fowl, ferret, or other small companion animal, keeping your new family members safely isolated from your dog when not under your direct supervision is key to success – unless and until you are 100 percent sure your dog will do them no harm. With large animals such as livestock, management for safety goes both ways. Just as your dog can injure or even kill a horse or cow, he can also be badly injured or killed by them. Manage, manage, manage, until you are confident that things will go well.

Long-Term Management – It’s too soon to know if Sara will ever be able to be trusted home alone with Ralphie and Randy. The signs are promising, and as long as all continues to go well, the Johnsons may soon start a program of gradual departures – for just a couple of minutes at first, and then adding a few minutes at time. If Sara at any time shows any indication of a return to her prior aroused behavior around the cats, then management will be long term, with dog and cats never left alone together when their humans aren’t home to intervene if needed. You will need to make the same judgment for your own multi-species household.

Commitment – The Johnsons were serious about their goal of adopting cats into their family, and were willing to commit their time, energy, and other resources into making it happen. I have many clients who are seriously committed to implementing the modification protocols we create, and I was still impressed by the Johnsons’ investment in helping Sara learn to accept cats in her home. It may not take as much time and energy if your dog is less intense about other animals than Sara, but you still need to be prepared to do what it takes to make it work.

Realistic Expectations – The Johnsons knew they would need to find behaviorally compatible cats. They were willing to wait until they could find the right cats, and until Sara was ready for cats to come into the home. Cats who were likely to be stressed by an intense dog would not have been a wise choice, nor would it have been smart (or fair)  to rush things and introduce cats too soon in the process. Ken and Susan knew they were taking on a major project, and were prepared to give up their dream of adopting cats if we weren’t successful in our behavior modification program.

Prior History – The Johnsons were flying a little blind on this one. Although Sara reportedly had lived in harmony with cats in a prior home, her behavior didn’t support that statement. In fact, it appeared more likely that she hadn’t. Predatory behavior alone isn’t an automatic deal-breaker; the Miller dogs have killed groundhogs here on our farm, and still live quite peaceably with our three house cats.

However, if your dog has a strong reinforcement history for extremely inappropriate behavior toward other species – if he has successfully killed cats, or other domestic animals, it may be a huge challenge to bring potential prey into your home – and perhaps unfair to the potential victims. Think long and hard about how well you can manage your environment, and how committed you are to doing the work to modify the behavior. One management slip could be fatal.

Good News

The good news is that many dogs can and do live peacefully with other species. It happens day in and day out, all over the world. With a little luck your dog has no prior unhealthy association with the “other” of your choice, and you can plan to do a minimal classical conditioning program to get your housemates off together on the right paw, wing, or fin. If you end up with a dog like Sara, you may need to find a good, positive reinforcement-based behavior professional to help you. There’s a good chance you can make things work. Choose carefully, manage well, make the commitment, and be realistic.

Here’s to your happily blended multi-species household!

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training, including, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance at a First-Class Life.

Artificial Needs: Service-Dog Imposters Abound

On the scale of “how low can you go,” passing your dog off as a service animal so you can bring him to public places where dogs are otherwise banned has to be close to rock bottom. Yet fake service dogs are everywhere out there: Chain-store managers complain about having to clean up after them in their shopping carts and aisles. Websites cater to them, selling official-looking vests and identification badges. And fellow fanciers are alternately embarrassed and enraged when the faux disabled book their dogs onto airplanes so they can hop to the next dog show or agility trial.

According to the 2000 U.S. Census, 43 million Americans identify themselves as having some sort of disability. But only a fraction use service dogs. One advocacy organization (servicedogcentral.org) estimates that the number of task-trained service dogs is 100,000 to 200,000 – significantly less than 1 percent of the nation’s population of people with disabilities.

But loopholes in federal law make it very easy for posers to proliferate. Indeed, fake service dogs are so ubiquitous – or at least the awareness of them is – that they’ve crept into the popular culture. In September 2011, actress and stand-up comedian Natasha Leggero raised some hackles on NBC’s “The Tonight Show With Jay Leno” when she deadpanned about putting a vest on her dog to impersonate a service dog. Leggero told the late-night host, “Sometimes I pretend like I have epilepsy,” so she can get into restaurants with her dog.

That presumably was a joke, but the fakers are out there. “I’ve seen them. I’ve met them,” says veteran Lon Hodge of suburban Chicago, whose service dog Gander, a 3-year-old Labradoodle, helps him deal with autoimmune arthritis as well as post-traumatic stress disorder, or PTSD. “When you’ve been around service dogs like I’ve been, it’s really easy to spot a dog that’s just being a good dog, as opposed to one that’s been trained as a service dog.”

When Hodge has asked people point-blank about whether their dog is really a service dog, all have freely admitted that they weren’t, he says. “People seem strangely proud of the fact that they’ve scammed themselves into a motel without paying the extra $30 pet fee, or they got their dog in to a movie theater.”

DEFINING TERMS
Language is important, and no less here, where there are distinctions between “therapy dogs,” “service dogs” and “emotional-support dogs.” Though the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, each means a different thing.

“Therapy dogs” are those who provide affection and comfort to people in a variety of settings, including hospitals, retirement and nursing homes, hospices and schools. They may be called in to help people cope with the aftermath of traumatic events, such as natural disasters or tragedies, like this year’s devastating tornados in Moore, Oklahoma, or the Sandy Hook school shooting in Newton, Connecticut. And they may find themselves on call for relatively low-trauma but nonetheless stressful occasions, like final-exam week at college campuses.

A variety of organizations certify therapy dogs, including the Delta Society and Therapy Dogs International. While their tests vary, their main objective is the same: to make sure the dogs are calm, friendly, and under control in a variety of environments, some of them overwhelming or stressful. But other than knowing some basic obedience commands, therapy dogs do not need to be trained to be anything other than polite pooches who are happy to dispense and accept affection.

While a therapy dog may have an avocation, a service dog has a definite vocation: service or assistance dogs are specifically trained to help a person with a disability in some aspect of his or her everyday life. Unlike therapy dogs, they are specifically and vigorously protected by the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. In other words, under federal law, a hospital has the right to refuse to allow therapy dogs to call on patients, but it cannot prevent entry to a visitor accompanied by a service dog.

Ironically, service-dog imposters can only exist because of that landmark legislation, which prohibits persons with disabilities from being required to answer questions about the nature of their disability. While this provides privacy and dignity for the individual, who has a right to navigate through her day without answering intrusive questions about why she needs the dog at her side (or in her purse), it is a double-edged sword, allowing opportunists all the wriggle room they need to let their pet dogs impersonate service animals.

EMOTIONAL RESCUE
Until several years, just about any animal could be labeled a service animal, and interpretation of the federal law was getting pretty creative. In one California case, a woman managed to get her building’s no-pet clause waived when she produced a doctor’s note that said breeding hamsters helped her deal with her infertility and inability to express her maternal instinct. Cats, parrots, iguanas, monkeys – all could be considered bona-fide service animals under the law.

In March 2011, the U.S. Justice Department revised its regulations for implementing the Americans with Disabilities Act. The definition of “service animal” was narrowed to mean just dogs – specifically, those that are “individually trained to do work or perform tasks for a person with a disability.” Those tasks might include guiding a person who is blind, alerting a diabetic about a plummeting blood-sugar level, or pulling a wheelchair. (One other species also got a green light, albeit with more restrictions: Miniature horses, which, like dogs, can be trained and housebroken, can also be used as service animals under the law.)

Service dogs also help people with emotional or mental disabilities, but, again, they must be trained for the job: They aren’t just comforting their handlers, but are actually providing ways for them to cope. For example, a service dog can be taught to calm a person with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) by positioning himself to create a sort of furry safety barrier during an anxiety attack, or a service dog might remind a person with mental illness that it is time to take a prescription medication.

In other words, a service dog doesn’t just make you feel better and lower your anxiety; in order to live up to that title, a dog must actually be trained to do something that alleviates your emotional distress.

The Justice Department revisions specifically mention animals that are used for emotional support, noting that they do not quality as service animals under the Americans with Disabilities Act if their “sole function is to provide comfort or emotional support.”
That’s not to say, however, that emotional-support animals are never afforded special recognition. Some states and municipalities have laws that are different from the federal law, and that require business establishments to provide access even to emotional-support dogs. In addition, the federal Air Carrier Access Act has a wide-ranging definition of assistance animals, and it includes emotional-support animals. The handler must present a doctor’s letter that says the animal is needed to help deal with a specific mental or physical illness that “substantially limits one or more major life activities.”

In the general public, however, confusion still abounds. Earlier this year, actress Kristin Chenoweth tweeted about her emotional-support dog, Madeline, being barred from an American Airlines flight when a gate agent said she didn’t have the right paperwork. Saying she was “bullied and embarrassed,” the actress reportedly burst into tears, and the airline later issued an apology and a refund of her $125 cabin pet charge.

Celebrity-news show TMZ reported on Chenoweth’s “trip from hell” and described Madeline as a “service dog” – and was quickly corrected by the actress via Twitter, who said she was an emotional-support dog. At least she knew the distinction.

GEARED UP
Dress for success, the saying goes. The same applies when someone is trying to masquerade his or her dog as a legitimate service dog. Web sites that cater to the service-dog community sell all types of vests in a rainbow of colors, embroidered with words like “Service Dog, “Full Access,” “Working Dog/Do Not Pet.” Though many of the sites warn that fraudulent use of the products they sell is not permitted, they don’t – and probably can’t – ask for any proof to weed out the lying from the legitimate.

Judith Kujawa of Brighton, Michigan, uses her service dog Syd, a Rhodesian Ridgeback, to help with her mobility, which was impaired after an accident. Syd helps her climb stairs, and walking with him gives her balance – and confidence. He always wears his vest when the two go into places of business, restaurants, and stores.

“I was extremely surprised that ordering Syd’s vest, as well as the service dog patch, was so easy, that it was so readily available online,” Kujawa says, adding that the ease of acquiring a vest probably makes it more likely people will cheat.

Like Kujawa, many service-dog handlers opt to have their dog wear the special vests, especially if they have a disability that is not visually identifiable or immediately apparent.

Renée Le Verrier of Newburyport, Massachusetts, has a 2-year-old Great Dane, Sir Thomas, who helps her with mobility issues resulting from Parkinson’s disease. “He’s my furry four-legged cane,” she says. “He’s not going anywhere – whichever way I’m about to topple, he’s there.”

Wearing a vest is an important part of taking Sir Thomas out in public. “When I go to the airport or am in a restaurant, I absolutely have his vest and kerchief on,” Le Verrier says. “It screams ‘service dog.’”

And sometimes, turning up the volume is a necessity. Thomas’ vest telegraphs his role to people who are curious about the giant breed and what Le Verrier is doing with him. “It’s almost comical sometimes. They’ll say, ‘Is he a hearing dog?’ and they don’t realize they’re asking me,” she explains. “Sometimes they don’t even see me – they just think, ‘Oh, it’s a Great Dane – how exciting!’”

Sometimes, it isn’t obvious that Le Verrier has a disability; the vest helps thwart questions. “I might look fine,” she says, “but in an hour I might not be.”

While bona-fide service dogs like Sir Thomas often wear vests, the same is usually not true for identification cards, badges, shields, and other accessories that are sold online. “The ADA mandates that this dog and owner have full access to all public places. It is the LAW,” reads one laminated card that is sold online. Emblazoned with the words “FULL ACCESS REQUIRED,” it sells for $21.99.

Another moneymaker for these websites is enrollment in a registry for service dogs. The companies do not test the dogs, or offer any assurances about the validity of the information they are recording: They just assign a number and issue a card. The certification is wholly unnecessary: The Americans with Disabilities Act does not require handler or dog to have or present identification. And Le Verrier thinks doing so, even under the most benign circumstances, is a bad idea.

“If someone asks you for papers, and you comply, it might make it more helpful for the person who’s asking,” she says. “But think about the precedent you’re setting for everyone else.”

For her part, Kujawa carries along business cards that she distributes to anyone who needs a little education. The cards explain “what and where a service dog can go,” she says. “Which is anyplace I can go!”

LESS IS MORE
Outrage over fake service dogs is a natural response. But some advocates for the disabled point out that legislating morality is not only futile, but may have serious repercussions for the very community it is trying to protect.

Michelle Spencer, a disabled veteran from Portland, Oregon, points out that stringent measures, such as national certification or registration of service dogs, will create more red tape for those who actually need them. Is trying to ferret out each and every imposter worth the risk of limiting a person with a disability’s legitimate access? As someone who actually has a service dog, she thinks not.

“It reminds me of the legislation put in many years ago in Oregon around driver’s licenses and illegal immigrants,” she explains. “Everyone said, make it mandatory that to get a driver’s license you have to show a birth certificate. Seems pretty simple, right? Well, what happened was it made it harder for citizens to get a driver’s license, and those who couldn’t just drove anyway.”
Spencer also thinks some canine posers are less problematic than others.

“There are those people who take their perfectly well-behaved pets on airplanes or into restaurants. Unless someone says that the dog isn’t a service dog, no one knows. These are 99 percent of the examples I hear … ‘I know a breeder who took their show dog to show X,’ or ‘You should have seen the plane full of dogs going to the dog show,’” she says. “Is it wrong? Absolutely. Is there anything I or anyone else can do about it? Usually not.”

More egregious and troublesome, she says, are those people who take ill-behaved dogs into public and pass them off as service dogs. “These are the dogs that pee in the hardware store, bark and lunge at the public, and do things that are quite obviously not appropriate for service dogs,” she says. “These are the folks that tear at the rights of we who have and use service dogs in a completely appropriate manner. They are the ones we are concerned about.”

There are laws that are already on the books that deal with disruptive service dogs, whether they are “legit” or not. Federal law allows businesses to ask two questions: “Is this dog a service dog required because of a disability?” and “What work or task has the dog been trained to perform?”

They cannot require medical documentation for the person or ask about the person’s disability; nor can they require a special identification card or training documentation for the dog. They also cannot ask that the dog demonstrate his ability to do the task for which he has been trained. But, if a dog is out of control and the handler cannot manage the situation, or if the dog is not housetrained, the person with the disability can be asked to leave the premises. And they can also be charged for any damage their dog may have done.

Spencer adds that some states are pursuing legislation to punish “fakers.”

“In Oregon, I and others have been working with the state legislature to make it a class C misdemeanor to say one’s dog is a service dog when it isn’t,” she says. “I suspect, over time, case law will set a precedent, and word will get out, but it is a process.”

IT’S ALL ABOUT ME
Years before her accident, Kujawa remembers taking a flight and meeting a man on board with a Dachshund. “He was traveling to a dog show,” she says, “and he was proud that he managed to take the dog on board, with a borrowed service vest.”

The problem then and now, Kujawa says, is an epidemic of self-entitlement.

“I think that, across the board, people – at least those so inclined – just take advantage of what they can. They just feel entitled to get any assistance possible, be it financial or designating their dog an assistance dog,” she says. “Sadly, most seem to feel that if it’s OK for someone who truly requires a service dog, it’s OK across the board. It is not.”

Hodge adds that most of the dozen or so people he’s met who have admitted to faking their dog’s service status honestly don’t think there are any long-term consequences to their actions. He thinks otherwise. “If their dog bites someone, it’s not just their legal liability,” he explains. “Now I have people who have created a hostile environment. There are a lot of people who are naturally afraid of dogs from the get-go. I’ve had people shriek when they get into Gander’s space. The reason I have a service dog is to avoid the stress.”

Also underlying the fake-service-dog phenomenon is a real lack of understanding of what a service dog does, and the responsibility that partnership places on the handler.

“People say to me, ‘You’re so lucky – you can take your dog everywhere with you,’” Le Verrier says. While she usually responds with a vague, “Yeah, he’s a good boy,” what she really wants to say is: “Have you thought about the reason why he’s with me?”

In addition to being indispensable helpers, service dogs are also a lot of work, Le Verrier reminds. “It’s like having a toddler and a date at the same time.” While Sir Thomas is at her side and attentive – that’s the date part – she has to plan for his needs, tote along his supplies, and make sure he doesn’t get distracted by koochie-cooers.

On some level, the self-absorption that leads people to palm their dogs off as service dogs also extends to the insistent desire to interact with a working dog like Sir Thomas, despite all the requests not to. “People want to pet him, and I’ve come to realize that it’s not really for him – it’s for them,” Le Verrier says. “That helps make it easier to say no when people ask.”

Speaking of saying no, there is another group of individuals who arguably could do more to take a stand on service-dog fakers. They are those who know people who do it, but never speak up.

“Maybe the problem is really with me, or at least people like me, who let their friends get away with it without saying anything,” says a dog owner who has several friends who are misrepresenting their dogs as service dogs, and who wants to remain anonymous for that reason. “I’m familiar with the ‘They came for the XYZ and I didn’t say anything, and then they came for me and there was no one left to speak for me’ argument. And that rings true. But I’m not willing to personally confront or take on those people. It’s not a battle I choose to fight.”

And in most cases, unless you know someone very well – including the intimate details of their physical and emotional status – it’s not a good idea to assume that their service dog is anything other than what they say it is. After all, giving the benefit of the doubt is an integral part of safeguarding the the freedom and dignity that people with disabilities deserve. Stopping those who take advantage of that is important – but not at the expense of those who need service dogs to begin with.

“The issue may be clear,” concludes Michelle Spencer, “but the solution isn’t necessarily so.”

Tick Paralysis: What to Do if Your Dog Seems Paralyzed

6

My friend Chris was awakened by a bump in the night – a noise coming from the living room in the middle of the night. She listened intently for a moment, and, hearing nothing more, fell back asleep. But when she heard a dog’s nails scrabbling wildly on the hardwood floor in her hall a few hours later, she remembered the bump sound and jumped out of bed to investigate.

She found her Bloodhound/Border collie-mix, Indi, thrashing on the floor. At first she thought Indi was having a seizure; the dog’s front paws were madly paddling at the slick floor. Then Chris realized that Indi’s back legs weren’t moving at all.

I would have had heart palpitations, but Chris used to work in a veterinarian’s office, and she instantly suspected tick paralysis. As she comforted and calmed the big dog, she ran her hands all over Indi’s body, feeling for an engorged tick. After a few minutes, she found one in Indi’s armpit; it was swollen to the size of a fat sunflower seed. She removed the tick, taking care to get the entire insect (mouthparts and all), and kept searching. Only when she was satisfied that there were no more ticks on Indi’s body, did she get dressed and prepare to take the dog to the emergency vet clinic.

Tick paralysis is caused by a neurotoxin produced by egg-engorged female ticks, who transmit the toxin from their salivary glands to the dog during feeding. The production (and transmission) of the toxin is greatest when the tick has been attached to and feeding from the dog between five and seven days. Five species of North American ticks produce the neurotoxin: the blacklegged tick (a.k.a. the deer tick), American dog tick, Rocky Mountain wood tick, the Lone Star tick, and the Gulf Coast tick. Most North American cases occur between April and June, when the ticks are at their peak reproductive activity.

If your dog suddenly seems paralyzed, there is a good chance it is tick paralysis. Here are steps to take when you suspect tick paralysis in dogs:

1. Check your dog immediately for ticks, and remove any you find. Then check again just in case.

The sooner you remove the tick, the better the dog’s prognosis. The earliest sign of this condition is often a change in the dog’s ability to bark, caused by laryngeal paralysis. He may also have trouble eating, and may gag, drool, cough, or vomit. The back legs are almost always the first to be affected, but as the paralysis spreads, he may lose coordination of all four legs. Death can occur if the paralysis stops the dog’s breathing. However, the moment the tick is removed, the dog will slowly start to improve.

2. Don’t give your dog water (or food).

While you want your dog to stay cool, and you do want him to be well-hydrated, if his larynx is partially paralyzed, he may not be able to swallow properly and can choke. Taking water or food into his lungs due to the incoordination could trigger further health crises.

3. Go to the veterinarian, and try to keep your dog calm.

If your dog is having trouble breathing, get him to the vet as quickly as possible so oxygen can be administered. Keeping him calm and cool will reduce his need to pant.

4. If you don’t find a tick, take him to the vet as soon as possible anyway.

Your vet may be able to find a tick that you could not, but if no ticks are found, further tests will be needed to determine the cause of his condition.

The vet will probably administer intravenous fluids, to help flush the toxin from your dog’s system. No other treatment is generally needed. Most cases of tick paralysis resolve completely within 24 hours of removing the tick, as long as further complications have not developed (from a lack of oxygen or inhaling water, for example).

5. Prevent further tick bites by any means necessary.

If ticks are numerous in your area, make sure your dog is treated with a spot-on tick repellent such as Frontline. According to many anecdotal reports, these preparations are less effective today than they once were – but they are still more effective than nothing, and more effective than any of the homemade sprays made from essential oils that we’ve tried. It may also be wise to avoid trails or areas where ticks are found during the peak season (April to June) for the tick’s production of this toxin.

Indi spent the day receiving fluids under observation at the vet’s office. By the time Chris picked her up in the afternoon, she was able to walk (somewhat woozily) out of the clinic and hop into Chris’ van by herself. By bed time that night, she was completely recovered.

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Emotional Rescue

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Allow me to take a moment to thank anyone and everyone who participates in or supports the rescue movement. I had an experience recently with some rescue folks whose efforts on behalf of a dog I am trying to help brought me quite literally to tears. I’m amazed at their commitment on behalf of a dog they haven’t even met yet, on the word of some stranger who says it’s a nice dog who deserves some extra help. It’s astonishing.

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Though I’ve long been aware of the rescue movement, I’ve had a mostly arms-length relationship with rescue people; all of my volunteer efforts over the past decade have been with shelters. Of course, shelters and rescues sometimes work together, and I’ve reached out to breed rescues a few times when there was a purebred in the shelter where I volunteer who needed some extraordinary help. For example, some Shar-pei people helped us place some abused Shar-pei who needed special care. And a local Dachshund rescue group once took on a heartworm-positive weiner dog that we volunteers had all fallen in love with, despite the fact that he was also a little bitey.

I’ve also had some ugly experiences with bad rescue people – faux rescuers, actually. Most notable was the woman who ran a small dog “rescue” but whose dogs, my shelter’s officers kept hearing, were in terrible shape. Our officers had contacted her numerous times, but she was hostile and basically told them that if they ever wanted to see her “rescue facility,” they were going to need a warrant. It took far too long to get a judge to sign a search warrant, but when the officers finally succeeded, they were aghast at what they found: over 100 emaciated small dogs, almost all of them in very bad shape with internal and external parasites and infections. Many of them had wounds from fighting (for food). There were pregnant females and others with nursing litters; a couple of the litters were sick with what proved to be distemper. (As a result of the ubiquitous plea bargain, the “rescue” owner eventually paid a fine and is on probation – not harsh enough punishment for the suffering she caused.)

Then there are people like this: There is a big, handsome hound in our shelter right now. Buddy is young and untrained and full of energy. He needs exercise and training, and I and some of the other volunteers have been working with him – but mostly he needs to get out of the shelter. He’s been there for two months already, and he’s so frustrated with his confinement that he goes bananas when people walk by to look at him, jumping, baying, and generally looking like a nutcase. If a volunteer or staff member is nearby, we always rush over to show anyone who might be interested that he’s really a good boy, he can sit quietly if you ask him to (and have some treats handy). We haven’t been able to convince anyone yet.

Desperate, I recently put out the word to some hound rescue people. And within a few days, I received word that several people are coordinating transportation for Buddy to an experienced hound foster home some hundreds of miles away. I received a text from one woman I spoke to telling me not to worry, “This boy will be saved by someone in our rescue.” I could not be more grateful, more happy for Buddy, or more amazed at the kindness and generosity of rescue people. Thank you.