What to Do with a Dog Who Bites Their Owner

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August 20, 2024

What you do with a dog that bites their owner depends on the dog and what is driving the biting. — The dog pictured here shows many of the signs typically displayed before a bite including an intense stare, raised hackles, bared teeth, and tense posture. Credit: Volodymyr_Plysiuk | Getty Images

Living with a dog who bites their owner, or other people for that matter, can be scary, stressful and in some cases – dangerous. It is essential that a dog who bites people is assessed by a qualified professional to ascertain whether the dog’s aggressive behavior can be successfully managed and modified to prevent further injury to people. Dogs who bite can be very dangerous and it’s important to understand whether a dog who bites their owner can be safely managed whilst they undergo behavior modification and training to address the aggression to significantly reduce their bite risk.

Does the dog have a bite history?

For a dog who has bitten their owner it’s important to understand whether the bite was an isolated incident or if the dog has a bite history. When considering a dog’s bite history the severity of the previous bite(s) should be thoroughly evaluated. Not all bites are equal. A dog whose bite causes minimal damage, such as a scrape to the skin, is generally considered to have a much better prognosis by professionals compared to a dog whose bites cause severe damage including deep lacerations requiring medical intervention[1].

The most common reasons why a dog might bite its owner, or another person, are a medical issue (e.g. the dog is unwell or in pain) and stress, fear or anxiety. Many dogs learn through experience that aggression is an effective tool to accomplish a desired outcome. For example, a dog who is in pain and does not want to be touched or carried learns that growling, snapping or biting either delays or prevents a person from touching or picking them up. Similarly, a dog who is guarding a valued resource, such as a bone, learns that showing aggression delays or prevents the owner from taking away the valuable resource.

What to do with a dog who bites their owner

Research shows that pain or an underlying medical issue can cause dogs to show aggression towards people[2]^,[3]. First and foremost, any dog who bites their owner must be taken to the vet for a thorough examination. This allows a vet to either identify and treat, or rule out, a medical issue causing or contributing to the onset of aggression.

When it comes to dogs with a bite history, where a medical issue has been ruled out, the owners should work with a qualified and reputable ethical dog trainer that specializes in aggression cases, an applied animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist. These professionals typically complete a thorough health and behavioral history and assessment of the dog, the environment, the interactions between the dog and owner and the previous bite incidents.

This process helps to identify and understand any contributing factors and triggers for aggression, as well as the severity of the bites inflicted. The professional can then advise on the prognosis and, if deemed safe to do so, how the dog should be appropriately managed to significantly reduce or prevent any further bites. These professionals will also teach and demonstrate ethical training and behavior modification strategies to work to address the underlying cause of the aggression. In rare cases, the professional may recommend behavioral euthanasia for dogs who pose a significant danger to people¹.

How to incorporate a dog with a bite history into your home

A dog with a bite history that’s deemed safe to live with people can be successfully incorporated into your home. This requires a thorough professional evaluation to ensure the dog is a good fit for the new owner, their lifestyle and the home environment as well as a management and behavior modification plan for the new owner to follow. Incorporating a dog with a bite history into your home requires an understanding of the risks and commitment to following the professional advice provided in terms of management and training to work to prevent or resolve the aggression.

How to recognize the difference between playful/overexcited nips and escalating/aggressive biting (and how to address each).

A dog gently nipping is different from a dog whose biting is motivated by aggression. — Compare this dog’s body language to the dog in the image up top. Given this puppy’s soft eyes and relaxed posture, she is likely mouthing her owner to teethe, play, or get attention. While she should be redirected to a more appropriate chew toy, this type of biting is not driven by aggression. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

There is a difference between playful or over-excited bites and nips and true aggressive biting. You can recognize playful or over-excited bites and nips in many puppies and younger dogs. They often bite, mouth or nip when they’re teething, playing or when they’re excited. These bites tend to be more gentle, although they can still be painful, compared to aggressive bites which are intended to hurt.

The body language is also different. For example, playful biting and nipping often coincides with jumping up and the dog wanting attention or wanting to play. Whereas dogs displaying true aggression are typically seeking distance from the person they bite and their body language is a lot more tense. These dogs look threatening, often baring teeth with and intense gaze, ears held back, body stiff and their hackles raised.

Playful biting and nipping can be addressed by redirecting the behavior onto a toy and reinforcing the dog for biting and mouthing the toy. Any playful biting or nipping directed towards people should be ignored so as not to accidently reward it. Done consistently, the dog will choose to bite and mouth the toy because that behavior is more reinforcing than biting or nipping people.

Aggressive biting can be addressed by working to resolve the underlying cause of the aggression which is usually fear, anxiety or stress. This typically involves using gradual desensitization and counter-conditioning to the trigger for aggression to change the underlying emotional response to the trigger from a negative association to a positive or neutral association[4]. This training is best done in consultation with a qualified professional to ensure accurate understanding and implementation for best results.

Dogs can bite their owner for different reasons including pain, fear and anxiety. Working with a professional can help you identify and address the cause of the aggression to help prevent it from happening again.

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[1]Dunbar, I. Dr. Ian Dunbar’s Dog Bite Scale (Official Authorized Version) An Assessment of the Severity of Biting Problems Based on an Objective Evaluation of Wound Pathology 2017. (T. A. of P. D. Trainers, Ed.). 104 South Calhoun Street, Greenville, SC 29601. Available online. (accessed on 4 June 2019).

[2] Affenzeller, N., McPeake, K. J., McClement, J., & Zulch, H. (2017). Human‐directed aggressive behaviour as the main presenting sign in dogs subsequently diagnosed with diskospondylitis. Veterinary Record Case Reports, 5(4), e000501.

[3] Camps, T., Amat, M., Mariotti, V. M., Le Brech, S., & Manteca, X. (2012). Pain-related aggression in dogs: 12 clinical cases. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 7(2), 99-102.

[4] Riemer, S., Heritier, C., Windschnurer, I., Pratsch, L., Arhant, C., & Affenzeller, N. (2021). A review on mitigating fear and aggression in dogs and cats in a veterinary setting. Animals, 11(1), 158.

Download The Full September 2024 Issue PDF

By

Nancy Kerns

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August 20, 2024

4

Martingale Collars
Ways to Play
Periodontal Disease
Kangaroo Dog Food
Start Talking!
Balm for their Soles
Cheatgrass Challenges
Mental Stimulation
Express Them Yourself?

Can You Use Human Shampoo on Dogs?

By

Cindy Foley

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August 19, 2024

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You can use human shampoo on a dog. Dish soap is also an option. — Whether you choose to use Dawn Dish Soap or a commercial dog shampoo to bathe your dog isn’t as important as ensuring your dog has a positive experience getting the bath.

For a normal dog who doesn’t have atopic dermatitis or any other skin irritation, you can use human hair shampoo to bathe your dog. And, as the TV ads like to remind us, Dawn Dish Soap is safe and cleans animal coats (and feathers!) quite well. Frankly, for many of us, dish soap is what we reach for first when our dog adds a layer of mud to his coat. Baby shampoo, since it is specifically made to be gentle and not irritate the tender skin on human babies, is a good choice for your dog, too.

Overall, your choice of shampoo depends upon your dog (and your wallet, of course). We would be extra cautious with dogs with sensitive skin or any immune disorder, but if your dog is just fine, your choice of a shampoo probably isn’t critical.

It may take some experimentation, though, and many dogs do best with a shampoo treatment best suited to their individual coat. “My go-to for bath time is Dawn first, followed by diluted Bio-Groom Wiry Coat,” says WDJ Executive Editor Kate O’Connor, who owns and competes Airedales. “Airedales can get greasy. They are nice and water-resistant but hard to get really clean without pulling out the dish soap. Dawn followed by the Bio-Groom leaves them clean with a nice crispy coat.”

If you are bathing your dog frequently because he’s a show dog (or a Pigpen!), look for a mild dog shampoo that gets the job done and minimizes the risk of drying out the skin or hair. In other words, for most dogs, we recommend choosing a gentle, moisturizing dog shampoo that gets the job done. Our favorites? The Original Buddy Wash and Burts Bees for Dogs Oatmeal Shampoo.

When to Bathe a Dog

While there are times when the dog is simply filthy—whether from swimming in a lake, rolling in mud, or coming in with leprechaun-like green legs from romping through fresh grass clippings—in general dogs don’t need many baths. (They do, however, need regular grooming at home, whether long-haired, short-haired, or wire-haired).

“For normal dogs, the biggest issue probably isn’t the shampoo itself but how often the bath is given and what the whole bathing protocol involves,” says William H. Miller Jr., VMD, DACVD, Professor Emeritus of Dermatology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. “Many people over-bathe their dogs, as far as skin health is concerned. You can cause some skin issues if you bathe your dog too often, even with a very mild shampoo.”

Also, while most groomers will tell you that a dog must be completely dried after a bath prevent aggravating fungal skin conditions (especially if the dog has an extremely heavy coat), Dr. Miller contends that “intense blow drying after the bath can only make things worse.”

Selecting a Dog Shampoo

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

By and large, we will choose to use dog shampoos when we can. It’s true that dogs and humans have slightly different pH levels of their skin and hair, but the numbers aren’t all that different (nor completely agreed upon). Some groomers aren’t buying the widely held belief that you must choose a shampoo that has the same pH as the hair coat—few companies even list the product pH on the label.

Here’s what we think about bathing your dog:

If your dog is smelly and dirty, bathe him. If you have dog shampoo on hand, great. If you don’t, baby shampoo, your shampoo, or Dawn Dish Soap will work. Rinse well. Towel dry unless you must use a blow dryer.
When choosing a commercial dog shampoo, look for one that includes the least number of ingredients (read the label). We avoid perfumes, dyes, and fragrances.
We skip adding a follow-up coat conditioner, unless there’s a reason for it, like a long-coated dog who constantly tangles or a wire-haired terrier. (A shampoo with an added conditioner, like our favorites above, is fine.)
If a dog has particularly dry skin or may be hypersensitive, you may wish to sacrifice suds to avoid sulfates (including sodium lauryl sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate, triethanalomine, and alkyl sodium sulfate) on the ingredients list, as these can irritate dry skin. (Sulfates make suds.) Don’t confuse sodium lauryl sulfate with the mild detergent sodium laureth sulfate, which is widely used as a water softener and in baby and other non-irritating shampoos as a cleansing ingredient.
We wouldn’t bother using a dry shampoo for dogs, unless there is no other choice and you simply need to get some stink out of his coat. Otherwise, give him a wet bath and get him really clean.
If possible, bathe a puppy with a shampoo for puppies.

Make Your Own Dog Shampoo

You can make your own dog shampoo, if you are so inclined, and we have homemade shampoo recipes for dogs to help you get started. Got fleas? Homemade flea shampoo will help get a start on removing some of those parasites from your dog’s skin (but it is far from the only thing you need to do if you detect fleas!).

Why Do Dogs Wag Their Tails?

By

Joan Merriam

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August 17, 2024

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GettyImages-1386990786 — From happiness and excitement to wariness and fear, dogs appear to use tail wagging to communicate a wide array of emotions. Credit: sinseeho | Getty Images

It’s something we all know: our dogs wag their tails because they’re happy. Because they’re thrilled to see us. Because they love us. But it turns out that what we “know” may not be the truth. Or it may be only part of the truth.

As certified behavior consultant and trainer Pat Miller wrote in her article “Tell-Tail Signs: What’s Your Dog’s Tail Language?”, just because a dog’s tail is wagging doesn’t necessarily mean it’s happy. It simply means the dog is stimulated. It certainly may be happiness or excitement that’s the stimulation, but it could also be anxiousness, fear, or even aggression. (Yes, contrary to popular opinion, an angry dog approaching you could also be wagging its tail. Just ask someone who’s been bitten by a tail-wagging dog.) You need to carefully observe the dog’s entire body to reach any kind of meaningful conclusion about what that wagging tail really means.

Think of it in human terms: while we may use our hands to gesture, those gestures can have a variety of meanings, depending on the context. We might be pointing toward something, we might be explaining how tall or short or long something is, we might be gesturing while telling a story, we might be using our hands to communicate our excitement or love or even dislike. Yet even though these kinds of gestures are linked to communication, other gestures can be instinctive and spontaneous, not something we do intentionally. The same could be said for dog tail-wagging.

How Did Tail-Wagging Evolve?

Four European researchers recently investigated over 100 past studies on dog tail-wagging to see if any patterns emerged that would give a single, conclusive answer as to how dog tail-wagging evolved, as well as what it means. That research led them to develop two main theories about the evolution of tail-wagging: first, that over the tens of thousands of years that humans worked to domesticate dogs, breeding them for traits like friendliness and tameness, we unintentionally selected for tail-wagging because it was linked to those positive characteristics.

The second theory that emerged was that we bred dogs for tail-wagging because of an innate yet unconscious human appreciation for rhythm. “Perhaps because humans have this sort of propensity for rhythmic themes, we were actually breeding dogs that wagged more,” explains Taylor Hersh, one of the study’s authors. “We may not have been aware that we were doing it.”

The Many Meanings Behind Tail-Wagging

So, why do dogs wag their tails? No one doubts that dogs wag their tails to communicate, but beyond that, opinions range far and wide.

For instance, some research suggests that the directionality of a tail-wag can express a dog’s emotional state: a tail that wags more to the right may suggest the dog is curious and wants to approach, while wagging to the left can mean the dog is uncertain or wants to retreat.

The position of a dog’s tail can hint to its general mood and feelings as well, say other researchers. For instance, according to veterinarian Dr. Brittany Grenus, graduate of Tufts Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine, when a dog is showing happiness or friendliness, their tail will be either parallel to the ground or held slightly upward or downward and wagging in sweeping side-to-side movements. “The more excited a dog is, the faster their tail typically wags,” she says, and in times of extreme excitement, you’ll often see what can only be described as a whole-body wag.

On the contrary, a tail held low, pinned down against or tucked between a dog’s back legs, strongly indicates insecurity and submission. Sometimes, that low position can be accompanied by a fast wagging motion that’s only at the tip, which tends to show that the dog is anxious, fearful, or perhaps wants to appease another dog.

Do Other Animals Wag Their Tails?

Dogs aren’t the only mammals that wag their tails, but they are by far the species that does it the most. While dogs wag primarily to communicate, other animals “wag” their tails for different reasons: whales swing their tails in order to move through the water; horses, cows, as well as many wild animals like moose, elephants, zebras, and giraffes use their tails to swat away flies and other pests; flying squirrels glide from tree to tree by moving their flat tails like rudders; white-tailed deer often wag their tails in alarm or when they’re about to run from a threat.

You might think that because dogs are descended from wolves, wolves might also be tail-waggers, but generally, the answer is no. While wolves frequently use their tails to communicate, they score almost at the bottom of the persistent-tail-wagging scale when compared to their evolutionary heirs. While subordinate wolves will wag their tails during reunions after separation, Taylor Hersh explains that “What we don’t see in wolves is this huge amount of tail wagging across a variety of situations. In wolves, it’s mostly confined to a submissive individual signaling to or appeasing a dominant individual. They’ll wag their tails slowly and often pretty low.” What you’ll never see in wolves is the I’m-so-happy-I-could-burst kind of tail-wagging we see in our domestic dogs.

Some people also believe that foxes and coyotes wag their tails, but again, researchers have never been able to confirm this. In fact, in Portland, Oregon, where coyotes are pervasive, the Portland Urban Coyote Project states that “You’ll never see a coyote’s tail held high or wagging. If you see that, you are probably looking at a dog.”

Foxes will hold their tail high in signaling to other foxes, and fox cubs will shake their tails rapidly while begging their parent for food, but there’s no evidence that foxes actually “wag” their tails.

The Future of Tail-Wagging Research

While we know a fair amount about why dogs wag their tails, further research could have a number of advantages. For instance, learning more about tail-wagging behavior could have profound animal welfare impacts. A case in point is the practice of tail-docking, which many researchers and animal ethicists say not only causes unnecessary pain, it also may have an adverse impact on a dog’s ability to communicate with other dogs. At the same time, it negatively affects a dog’s balance and support.

Additional research into why dogs wag their tails would certainly allow us to understand more about dog behavior and their interactions with both humans and other dogs and will help close the gaps in the scientific literature as well. The experts who explored the studies on dog tail-wagging are hoping for a more in-depth examination of the phenomenon, including neuroimaging through noninvasive brain scans. One of the questions they’d like to answer is whether our dogs’ tail-wagging is conscious or unconscious. Perhaps, as with human gestures, they’ll discover it’s a little bit of both.

In the end, while science—and our own experiences as dog lovers!—can offer some clues and ideas, a great many mysteries remain about why dogs wag their tails..

What’s a Puppy Training Schedule?

By

Linda Aloi

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August 16, 2024

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There is no set puppy training schedule — Your puppy needs to develop at his own pace, learning as he goes along. You need to provide patience, yummy treats, and give him a chance to learn without being stressed. Credit: Jessie Casson | Getty Images

So . . . you got a new puppy, and you’re probably wondering when you should begin your puppy’s training. Well, the answer is NOW! No matter how old your pup is when you walk through the door with him, he is starting to learn, and it’s important that you guide him in the right direction.

First, throw out the idea that there’s a certain puppy training schedule that’s done by age or a time frame. Nonsense. Training starts as soon as you bring your puppy home, and puppies are individuals. Some learn more slowly than others, and that’s OK.

Remember that the younger the dog, the shorter the training sessions should be. Puppies tire quickly. Several very short sessions throughout the day—with yummy treats—will accomplish your goals faster.

And remember that you never stop training your dog. Everything you do is training, and you need to reinforce the behavior you want with positive reinforcement. You’re teaching your puppy every time you handle him.

Be very careful not to overwhelm your puppy. Puppies need socialization, time to get used to new and different things, other dogs, new people, and so on. You do not want to scare them! “A robust body of research has shown that puppies are deeply, quickly, and often permanently impacted by what they experience during what’s now called the ‘sensitive period,’ from about 3 to 14 weeks of age,” says trainer and family dog mediator Kathy Callahan.

When to Start Crate Training

It would be wonderful if your breeder got your pup used to a crate before you got him, beginning at 4 weeks of age. But not all of us have that luxury. The younger the dog is, the easier it is for him to become accustomed to a crate. However, most dogs, of any age, can be persuaded to think of their crate as their den. With the help of treats, stuffed Kongs, and patience, a dog can learn that a crate is a place of peace, quiet, and safety. Make sure you do your research on crate training as some mistakes are not easy to fix. For more information on crate training, read “Crate Training to Keep Your Dog Content.”

When to Start Potty Training

I start potty training my puppies as soon as I get them home, whether it be 10 weeks or 10 months. Only they don’t know they are being potty trained. They only know that they are getting a tiny treat and lots of praise when they go potty outside, which encourages them to do the same next time.

The younger the puppy, the more frequently he will have to go out. Rush him outside when he wakes up from a nap, shortly after a big drink of water, after meals, and after playtime. I would not consider a puppy housebroken until he has learned to tell you he has to relieve himself. Some dogs “get it” at a very young age. Others, well, it can take till their 6 months old or even later. It’s up to you to be patient and consistent.

Walking on a leash, sit, and down training: Basic lessons are learned from day 1, whether it be the 10-week-old pup you just picked up from a breeder, a 6-month-old that you’ve adopted, or an older rescue whose life you saved. Dogs of any age appreciate praise, treats, and toys. This positive reinforcement will encourage them to repeat that performance. It can be very helpful to sign up for a puppy class and work with a trainer who can advise you and help with problems that might appear during your puppies training.

Be careful that you do not teach undesirable behavior unintentionally. For instance, if you are practicing a “stay,” did you forget about that stay when you answered the phone? If you are teaching your dog not to jump, do you allow the neighbor to praise him when he jumps up to greet her?

Enjoy that new pup of yours. Just remember that living with a trained, housebroken dog with an off switch is much more enjoyable than one that is not.

Pros and Cons of Large Pet Food Companies

Blog

By

Nancy Kerns

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August 15, 2024

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A woman browses for pet food in a grocery store aisle. — There are benefits and disadvantages of feeding your dog every type of food imaginable. We tend to throw our lot in with smaller pet food companies who use high-quality, domestically sourced, whole ingredients in their products. Photo credit: lupengyu, Getty Images

I’m asked from time to time why we don’t include foods from giant dog food companies such as Mars PetCare (whose products include Royal Canin and Pedigree), Purina (who makes ProPlan as well as Dog Chow and Purina One), or Hills (Science Diet et. al.).

It might make the most sense for me to formulate a response in terms of pros and cons of feeding products from these corporate giants.

Pros:

Competitive pricing. These companies are global giants, with massive purchasing power and extensive manufacturing capabilities, so they are able to produce high volumes of product at a lower cost than smaller companies. Their products can be offered at lower price per pound than products made in smaller facilities. (However, in some cases, these saving may be offset by the enormous cost of marketing and research and development.)
Top-quality, professional processing. The dog food giants can afford to hire and retain a well-trained work force, and constantly upgrade their manufacturing facilities. Their plants are uniformly clean and well maintained, and usually have extensive in-house labs for running very frequent quality-control tests.
A plethora of R&D. The big companies maintain kennels of dogs (and cats) and teams of veterinarians and vet techs so they can test various diets and dietary innovations in feeding trials of their products’ taste, color, shape, and size, as well as the diets’ digestibility and ability to maintain the intended consumers’ health. They are more or less constantly tinkering with various ingredients (in order to maximize the products’ performance while minimizing their cost).

Cons:

Price pressure and global sourcing of ingredients can lead to inclusion of sketchy ingredients. Those of you who were pet owners in 2007 will immediately know what I’m talking about (the 2007 pet food recalls). The inclusion of less-expensive ingredients from China that had been adulterated with melamine and cyanuric acid (which artificially boosted the estimated amount of protein in the ingredients) led to the deaths and serious injuries of countless dogs and cats—perhaps in the thousands. An estimated 5,300 products were recalled as tests revealed the scope of use of the contaminated ingredients. Most of the largest pet food companies in the U.S. and Canada had multiple (sometimes hundreds) of recalled products; products were also recalled in South Africa and Europe. For months, as the extent of this disaster expanded, we held our breath, waiting to see whether any of the foods on our “Top Dog Foods” lists would be implicated—and none ever were. This strengthened our appreciation of smaller pet food producers who are committed to high-quality ingredients.
The largest pet food producers almost uniformly use already processed food by-products in the foods that they further process. Many of the dry foods made by the global pet food giants are made with meat meal only (without the inclusion of fresh or frozen meat) and/or meat by-product meal. Meat meals and meat by-product meals are already made through a fairly intense process—and then mixed with other ingredients into a dough that gets baked, or more commonly, cooked via high temperature and pressure in an extruder. Many of the carb sources used by these companies are by-products from human food manufacturing, such as tomato pomace, citrus pulp, beet pulp, brewers rice, etc. These ingredients may play a useful functional role in the formula (in addition to their nutrient content), such as providing useful fiber—but a whole ingredient, included without previous processing, may supply greater nutritional benefits. Given the potential for contamination, and the loss or degradation of nutrients that can occur with each processing step, we prefer products that include whole ingredients.
The largest producers tend to use lower-cost, lower quality sources of various nutrients. For example, beef fat is one of the lowest-cost ingredients available as a fat source for dog food, and it appears in many Pro Plan foods. Plant proteins, in the form of soybean meal, rice gluten, corn gluten, and wheat gluten, are commonly used by these food makers to support the amount of protein supplied by animal protein sources, which have superior amino acid profiles for canine nutrition. Some Royal Canin foods have corn as their first ingredient, rather than an animal protein!
All of the large food producers make their products in enormous This means, if there is a problem with an ingredient or formula, it can potentially affect many more dogs before the problem is identified and the product recalled.

Smaller Is Not Always Better

But don’t get me wrong; there are benefits and risks of buying products from smaller pet food makers, too. While they tend to use higher-quality ingredients, they sometimes lack meaningful control over the production of their products at third-party “contract manufacturers” or “co-packers”—or lack the resources to properly train or retain a reliable workforce or maintain clean facilities of their own. Production problems seem more common at smaller plants—but on the other hand, when foods are recalled, often the recalls affect only a small number of products, thanks to smaller production runs.

No Dietary Source Is Perfect

There is fairly clear scientific consensus that the least processed foods are healthier for every species of animal than highly processed foods. So many dog owners feel more comfortable making their dogs’ food themselves, with ingredients they have chosen. But if they aren’t equipped with reliable, well-researched recipes, or lack adequate knowledge of the dog’s unique nutritional requirements, they may unwittingly cause their dogs to develop nutritional deficiencies or imbalances that affect their health. There are risks and benefits of every way of feeding your dog (and yourself!).

Ultimately, you have to decide what you feel best about—and you have to watch your dog, with the understanding that nutrition does affect health. If you are aware of the hazards that could result from your choice, you can watch for signs of any acute adverse response to a food—or chronic signs that the diet isn’t maintaining your dog as well as another diet might.

And if your dog looks, seems to feel, and acts like a million bucks on his current diet—or, as we prefer, several foods that you rotate among—there may be no reason to change what you feed him.

Can Dogs Have Apples?

By

Cindy Foley

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August 15, 2024

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Dogs can have apples and apple products so long as they don't have artificial sweeteners. — Go ahead and share a bit of your apple with your dog—he’ll love it! Simonkr | Getty Images

Your dog may beg for some of whatever you’re eating—quietly with just his eyes if he’s been taught not to beg or a full-body “give me some” body wiggle if he just can’t resist—but you can’t give in on everything we eat. Apples, however, are a fine treat to share with your dog, as are many fruits.

Apples are so naturally yummy that they’re often included as an ingredient in commercial dog treats. They’re healthy, too. Apples contain fiber, vitamins A and C, potassium and more nutrients.

How Much Apple Can My Dog Have?

Limit apples to a couple of pieces/slices so you don’t risk digestive upset (maybe a tad more for bigger dogs and a bit less for the littles).

You can give the dogs the apple skin but not the seeds as they contain tiny amounts of cyanide. (Don’t panic if your dog does consume a seed or two because the amount of toxin in an apple seed is small; it’s just best to avoid them.) Don’t feed the apple core either, which could be a choking hazard.

Dogs love red apples, but they can eat green apples, too, like Granny Smiths. Be aware, however, that because green apples are tart, they may not be as well received by your dog as a sweet Red Delicious, for example.

Dogs Can Eat Applesauce

Dogs can eat applesauce, too, but choose unsweetened varieties because dogs don’t need added sugar any more than we do. And, be especially careful to read the entire ingredients list on commercial applesauce to check to be sure the applesauce doesn’t contain xylitol, which is deadly to dogs. Xylitol may also be listed as birch sugar, wood sugar, and birch-bark extract, according to the Food & Drug Administration.

Interestingly, apple cider vinegar is sometimes added to a dog’s water or food to help digestion and promote beneficial bacteria.

How to Groom a Dog

By

Editorial Staff

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August 14, 2024

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Beyond just saving time and money at the groomer, doing some of your dog’s grooming at home can provide the opportunity to keep an eye on her overall health, spend time together, and work on any discomfort or anxiety she might have about grooming. While it can seem daunting at first, learning the basics of how to groom a dog is well within reach for many dog owners. Maintenance tasks like bathing, brushing coats and teeth, and trimming nails are a great place to start.

How to Groom a Dog

How to Groom a Dog at Home
Grooming Anxiety
Brushing Your Dog
Bathing a Dog at Home
Trimming Nails
Cleaning Teeth
Haircuts

How to Groom a Dog at Home

When it comes to how to groom a dog at home, there are a few tools you will need for the job. Some things, such as what kind of brushes you will need, will depend on your dog’s coat type. The basics include:

Nail clippers and/or a nail grinder
Brushes
Toothbrush
Dog toothpaste
Dog shampoo/conditioner

There are also some items that are nice to have but not necessary such as:

Electric clippers
Dog blow dryer (cool air)
Grooming table
Shedding tools
Spray bottle
Bath/shower attachment

For more detailed suggestions on at-home grooming equipment, see “Supplies for Dog Grooming at Home.”

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Grooming Anxiety

Before getting into how to groom a dog, it’s important to note that grooming should be a relaxed, stress-free process for both you and your dog. If your dog is anxious about being groomed—or even just inexperienced—you will need to develop a training plan to help her figure out that it’s not so scary after all. Remember that forcing her will often just frighten her more and make the process far more difficult in the long run.

If your dog struggles to stay calm for grooming, it often helps to practice beforehand using high-value rewards. Break the process down into easily attainable steps, keep the experience positive, and be prepared to practice daily. Above all, be patient and don’t be afraid to contact a good, fear-free trainer for help.

For further information on how to teach a dog to be calm for grooming, see “Tips For Grooming An Anxious Dog.”

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Brushing Your Dog

The goal of brushing your dog is to remove loose hair, tangles, and debris from her coat. Brushing also helps distribute the natural oils in the coat and stimulates the skin, which helps to keep both healthy. Because of this, even short-haired dogs should be brushed weekly. Dogs with longer hair, curly or double coats (dogs like Huskies that have both an undercoat and topcoat) may need to be brushed daily.

The first step when brushing a dog is to pick the right brush for your dog’s coat. For single-coated dogs with shorter hair, try a slicker brush, bristle brush, or silicone grooming glove. In addition to slicker and bristle brushes, tools that are useful for double-coated or long-haired dogs include rubber or plastic currycombs, pin brushes, and undercoat rakes.

There are several things to keep in mind when brushing your dog:

There is no right or wrong place to start. Some people begin brushing at the dog’s head and work back to the tail while others do the reverse. Pick what’s comfortable.
When brushing, use gentle, firm strokes that get down to the skin but don’t scratch it.
Follow the direction of the dog’s hair.
Avoid brushing directly over sensitive areas such as eyes, noses, and genitals.
Take breaks if needed.
Go slowly to keep from tugging on any tangles or mats.

It’s important not to pull on any tangles or mats you find as this can be painful for the dog and may even damage the skin. If necessary, use a detangling product (follow directions on the label) and gently work to untangle the hair. In some cases, mats may need to be cut out with electric clippers or scissors. If you are not comfortable doing so, seek help from a professional groomer.

For more on how to choose the right brushes, see “Brushes and Tools for Shedding Dogs.”

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Bathing a Dog at Home

You don’t need a professional grooming tub to give your dog a good bath. Depending on the size of your dog, a sink, bathtub, or shower will do. If it’s warm enough, you can also head outside and use a wading pool or hose. Anywhere that has access to warm (avoid hot or cold) water and can comfortably fit the dog is fair game.

Once you’ve selected a spot, gather your tools—you’ll need a brush, shampoo, conditioner (if wanted), and towels or a hair dryer. From there:

Brush your dog thoroughly
Wet with water
Work shampoo into coat, avoiding eyes and ears
Rinse
Apply conditioner
Rinse
Dry your dog
Brush while drying

Make sure the products you are using are gentle enough that they won’t irritate your dog’s skin. If you are looking for alternatives to commercially available products, you can also make your own dog shampoo.

For step-by-step instructions and bathing product suggestions, see “How to Bathe Your Dog.”

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Trimming Nails

Why are nail trims so important? Over time, too-long nails can actually compromise a dog’s weight distribution and natural alignment, causing pain and making the dog more susceptible to injury, or even curve around and grow into the pad of the foot. The good news is that those issues are easily avoided with regular nail trims.

The most common methods for trimming dog nails use nail clippers, nail grinders, or a combination of both. There are also scratch pads available, which use abrasive material to help keep nails short.

Nail trimming is often a dog’s least favorite grooming task. As mentioned in the section on grooming anxiety, you will need to be prepared to work with your dog to make it a tolerable process for her. Also, if you choose to use a nail grinder, your dog will likely need time to get used to the sound. To help her, give her treats while it is running, first a few feet away and then, once she is comfortable, held close to her paws.

To trim a dog’s nails with clippers:

Tuck back any loose hair so you can clearly see the nail.
Identify where you are going to cut. For white nails, avoid the pink “quick” down the middle of the nail and just cut in solid white. For black nails, focus on the tapered part of the nail and not the wide base.
Clip in one smooth steady motion.
Praise and reward your dog.
Trim sharp edges if using scissor-type clippers or use a nail grinder to smooth them down.

To trim a dog’s nails with a grinder:

Once your dog is acclimated to the grinder, hold the grinder at a 45-degree angle to the nail.
Apply light pressure so it files the nail back.
Repeat on the other side of the nail to even it out.
Smooth out any rough or sharp spots so the nail tip is rounded.

For further information, see “How to Trim Dog Nails.”

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Cleaning Teeth

At-home dental care for dogs is often overlooked but is extremely important for combating periodontal disease—alongside regular veterinary checkups and professional dental cleanings. While brushing your dog’s teeth daily is ideal, even just three times a week has been shown to be beneficial. As with other grooming tasks, you’ll want to start slow when getting your dog used to having her teeth brushed and keep the experience positive.

Begin by just running your finger or a soft, damp washcloth over the outer surfaces of your dog’s front teeth. Once she gets used to that, move to the outer surfaces of the back teeth and then to the inner surfaces. When your dog is comfortable with having all of her teeth touched, introduce a toothbrush followed by dog toothpaste.

When picking dental hygiene items for your dog, it’s best to get a toothbrush either made specifically for dogs or one made for human babies. Also, dog-specific toothpaste is a must. Human toothpaste as it is not designed to be swallowed and may not be safe for a dog’s gastrointestinal tract. If your dog won’t tolerate having her teeth brushed, there are options in the form treats, chews, and food/water additives that can help.

For more on how to care for you dog’s teeth at home, see “At-home Dental Care for Dogs.”

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Haircuts

Giving your dog a haircut is one of those areas where it’s usually best to at least consult a professional groomer before trying it out at home. There are a lot of things to watch out for that, if you are new to dog grooming, can be a struggle to get right. Mistakes can be uncomfortable or even painful for your dog.

Adding to the complication, different coat types need to be handled in different ways. While some dogs do best with regular shaving, some—such as most double-coated breeds—shouldn’t be shaved at all except in special circumstance. A groomer will be able to advise you on what haircut, if any, would be best for your dog.

If you do decide to try cutting your dog’s hair at home, make sure she is able to stand calmly while being groomed and is comfortable with the sound and feel of electric clippers or scissors. Before getting started, familiarize yourself with your dog’s anatomy so you don’t end up accidentally hurting or cutting her—even electric clippers can snag a nipple or burn sensitive skin if handled incorrectly.

None of this is meant to imply you can’t learn if you want to! Just use caution and get someone knowledgeable to teach you first.

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Treating a Red Rash on a Dog’s Belly

Health

By

Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

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August 13, 2024

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A red rash on a dog's belly or inner thighs is usually due to allergies but may indicate a serious problem like mange. — When your dog rolls over for that awesome belly rub, take a minute to be sure his skin isn’t raw or red, or that he’s starting to develop a rash. Credit: Little City Lifestyle Photography | Getty Images

Your dog rolls over for a belly rub, and you notice a red rash on his stomach or thighs. It may or may not itch, but it’s decidedly not normal. How do you treat a red rash on a dog’s belly?

Usually, a red rash on a dog’s belly and inner thighs is due to allergies. It could be because of new carpets or bedding, or from running through tall grass or brush, or a host of other things. However, a red rash on the belly can also be the first sign of a serious skin issue like mange, which is caused by mites.

If it’s the first time you’ve seen a rash on your dog’s belly, it’s wise to make a veterinary appointment, especially if your dog is itchy or uncomfortable. Getting a correct diagnosis helps target the best treatments for whatever issue your dog is experiencing and helps resolve it most quickly.

If you’re not able to quickly see a veterinarian, some first-aid treatments that are generally safe to try at home on a rash include:

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Bathing: Bathe your dog with a mild dog shampoo to remove allergens he may have picked up in his coat. Mild shampoos are often marketed as for sensitive skin or as hypoallergenic, such as Allergroom or Epi-Soothe from Virbac. If bathing is not possible, you can use an unscented baby wet wipe. Be sure to wipe down not only his belly, but also all four limbs.

Triple Antibiotic Ointment: If there are lesions that look like pimples or scabs, you can use over-the-counter topical triple antibiotic ointment on the lesions twice a day for up to seven days. Watch him closely for 10 to 15 minutes, and do not let him lick it off.

Cortisone Cream: If there are no lesions, just overall redness, it is usually OK to apply over-the-counter topical 1% cortisone cream twice a day for one to three days. When using cortisone cream this way, if anything seems to worsen instead of improving, stop using the cream immediately and see your veterinarian. Never use cortisone topically for more than a few days without consulting your veterinarian first. And, again, don’t let the dog lick it off.

Antihistamines: Some oral antihistamines are generally safe to use in dogs when an allergic reaction is suspected. Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) is the most common choice. The dosage for dogs is 1 mg per pound of body weight two to three times daily (once every 8 to 12 hours). So, a 25-lb. dog would take 25 mg. A 50-lb. dog would take 50 mg, and so on. Always be sure you look at the label on the box to see how much medication is in the product you’re purchasing. Regular diphenhydramine contains 25 mg per tablet, but extra-strength medications may contain 50 mg per tablet. Choose the tablet form and put it in a pill-hiding treat of some type.

If Benadryl doesn’t seem to help, talk to your veterinarian about other over-the-counter antihistamines that are safe for you to try and at what dosages. These might include loratidine (Claritin), ceterizine (Zyrtec), and chlorpheniramine (Chlor-Trimeton). Make sure your veterinarian knows what, if any, other medications your dog is taking.

Can a Dog Have a Mole?

Health

By

Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

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August 13, 2024

0

vet checking for moles on dog — If you’re not sure what that new spot is on your dog, go to the veterinarian to have it checked. It’s not worth the risk of assuming it’s a mole, when it could be a cancerous lesion. The longer you wait, if it’s cancer, the more difficult it will be to eradicate. Photo Kerkez | Getty Images

Dogs get moles just like people do. A mole is a small growth on the skin, also called a nevus. Moles are not the same as skin tags, in that moles tend to be flatter with a broader base. Skin tags protrude more from the skin and are usually connected by a slender stalk. Either way, both these lesions are benign.

Your dog may get pink, white, gray, or black moles. They are typically small, less than a quarter inch in diameter. They usually hairless and have a smooth surface, as opposed to a wart, which has a cauliflower-like surface.

The first time you see any skin growth on your dog, it’s a good idea to have it checked by your veterinarian just to be sure it isn’t something more harmful. There are two cancerous skin lesions that can initially look like a mole: mast cell tumors and malignant melanoma. Your veterinarian may take a sample using a fine needle aspirate and submit it for testing (cytology) to rule out these malignancies.

Be advised, ticks and moles look a lot alike upon cursory inspection. Before you start trying to pull off that mole, thinking it’s a tick, look closely, using a magnifying glass if necessary. If it’s a tick, you should be able to see the legs sticking out. Your dog will not appreciate your efforts toward removing a mole, and you will likely get it irritated and bleeding.

Once it’s been confirmed that your dog’s skin growth is a mole, there is no need to have it removed. Careful monitoring, however, is advised. Benign lesions don’t change much. Causes for concern include any change in color, size, or texture. Irregular, jagged edges forming in an originally smooth border is suspicious, as is a previously quiet lesion that suddenly seems to be bothering your dog. If any of these things are happening, get to the vet.

If you want to have a mole electively removed for whatever reason (e.g., cosmetic, groomer keeps nicking it, the dog keeps licking it, it keeps bleeding), this is usually easily achieved. Many veterinarians now have cryotherapy units and can quickly and painlessly freeze the mole off. Alternatively, most moles can be easily surgically removed using just local anesthesia.

Does My Dog Have Pneumonia?

By

Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM

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August 13, 2024

0

Dog pneumonia is first diagnosed by listening to a dog's lungs and then confirmed by x-ray. — In making a diagnosis of pneumonia, the veterinarian will listen to your dog’s lungs. Credit: Dima Sidelnikov | Getty Images

Canine pneumonia is a respiratory infection that has moved into the dog’s lower respiratory tract, the bronchioles and lungs themselves. The location of the infection alone makes it harder for your dog to get relief by coughing.

Some dogs with pneumonia may cough, bringing up some discharge. Others will have rapid or painful breathing but lie quietly and not really cough unless they get up and are active. Nasal discharge, generally thick and often pus-like, may be noticed. Most of these dogs seem to feel sick, lying around and not eating or drinking well. Fortunately, the survival

Causes of Dog Pneumonia

The causes of pneumonia are numerous, with some more serious than others. How does a dog even get pneumonia?

There are four categories of pneumonia:

Bacterial
Viral
Fungal
Aspiration

Almost always, the dog must have inhaled a pathogen or infectious agent. He might have inhaled some droplets when another dog sneezed or coughed nearby and released viral particles or bacteria. Walking in the woods, he may have snorted in some fungal spores. While vomiting, he may have inhaled some food particles.

Less commonly, your dog may breathe in smoke or other toxic fumes. All these possible causes interfere with the normal exchange of carbon dioxide for oxygen in your dog’s lungs. The alveoli (air sacs) in the lungs may fill with fluid, pus, or inflammatory cells and interfere with oxygen movement.

Diagnosis of Pneumonia

The suspected cause of the pneumonia will influence treatment and prognosis. Your veterinarian will start with diagnostic procedures. Initially, auscultation (listening to your dog’s chest with a stethoscope) will give your veterinarian an idea of the problem. A complete history will provide possible exposures to various pathogens. Pneumonias often have multiple causes, such as bacteria acting with viruses to cause the illness.

The next step is usually X-rays. Some pneumonias will have a characteristic appearance on a film. Throat or nasal swabs may be taken and sometimes a tracheal wash (flushing some sterile fluid into the trachea and then drawing it back up) will be done. These lab techniques may identify bacteria or fungi and provide material for cultures, so your veterinarian can prescribe the most efficacious antibiotics.

Treatment of Dog Pneumonia

Treatment will depend on the pneumonia severity. Very ill dogs will need to be hospitalized, given intravenous (IV) fluids and supplemental oxygen, along with specific medications to battle the pathogen responsible.

Dogs who are still eating and drinking may be sent home with restrictions on activity. Nebulization can help, either with a nebulizer or simply keeping your dog in the bathroom while you shower. The warm steam helps to loosen debris in the lungs, making it easier for your dog to cough it up.

Coupage can help. In this nursing technique, which can be done at home, you use a cupped hand to lightly rap on your dog’s chest. This can help to loosen debris. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do this.

Overall, about 80% of all dogs with pneumonia survive. Puppies, elderly dogs, and dogs with other chronic health conditions have a lower survival rate. Fungal pneumonias are notoriously difficult to treat and have a worse prognosis than bacterial pneumonia.

My Dog Is Not Eating

By

Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM

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August 13, 2024

3

Boy sneaking dog food from the table — If your dog is otherwise healthy and normal, you may have to grab your detective hat to decide why your dog isn’t eating. Credit: John Howard | Getty Images

If your dog skips his meals for a day or two but is otherwise acting fine – no diarrhea, no vomiting, normal heart and respiration – you should be OK holding off on a veterinary visit. But not any longer than a day or two! And, if the fasting dog is a senior, a dog with any chronic health condition, a puppy, or appears at all ill, at a minimum, you need to call your veterinarian for advice.

Loss of Appetite in Dogs

Some health conditions can lead to a loss of appetite. A dog with kidney or liver problems may feel nauseous and not want to eat. Many of these dogs will approach their meals, drooling even, but will turn and walk away.

Check your dog’s mouth for any sign of injuries such as ulcers, a stick or bone caught across the roof of his mouth – it happens more often than you may think! – or an electrical burn from chomping on a cord. Many of these dogs will act fine, at least for a while, despite not eating.

Some dogs just seem to be naturally finicky, like, this week beef is the favorite protein but last week only salmon would do. This is where it pays to know your dog.

Loss of Appetite in Breeding Dogs

If your dog is an intact male and you have an attractive girl in heat (basically ANY girl in heat is attractive), your boy may be perfectly healthy but in lust. This includes any bitch in the neighborhood, not just in your household.

For most males this will only last for a couple of days, right around when the female is in “prime time.” Provided he does not have any health problems that could be exacerbated by fasting for a few days, simply figure you are saving on dog food.

Another healthy-but-not-eating scenario can occur in a female who is pregnant and suffering from something similar to morning sickness. This tends to happen around two to three weeks post breeding. Generally, these females will eat something at some point during the day. Occasionally, even false-pregnant bitches will do this, too.

Adolescents

On to the non-sex-related anorexic dogs, although somewhat related. Adolescent males often will not eat well. Despite your most tempting offerings, they will walk on by. Meanwhile, they are burning up calories and can get quite thin. This is usually a stage somewhere in between 6 to 12 months of age. Most of them do eat something, but it can be very frustrating to owners. This too shall pass.

Canine Secret Eating

Then we get to the tricky non-eaters. First, be sure that someone else is not feeding your dog. Another family member, a kind neighbor, your cat (usually inadvertently on the cat’s part). Some dogs are such gluttons that they will eat these extras plus their own meals, but others admit they are full. This includes dogs who hunt and scavenge on their own. If your dog is out catching and eating squirrels or rabbits, he truly may not be hungry. It could also be a change in the dog’s bowl you haven’t noticed.

If your dog won’t eat, you have a small window of time to evaluate the situation, The better you know your dog, the easier it is to decide. Taking the dog’s temperature, pulse, and respiration and watching for diarrhea, constipation, and changes in urine output is wise. Keep your veterinarian in the loop if your dog is at all very young, old, or battling a chronic disease. We don’t want you to take chances, but you usually don’t have to panic either.

Whole Dog Journal reviews dog food, dog toys, and dog health and care products, and also teaches positive dog training methods.

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When to Bathe a Dog

Selecting a Dog Shampoo

Make Your Own Dog Shampoo

How Did Tail-Wagging Evolve?

The Many Meanings Behind Tail-Wagging

Do Other Animals Wag Their Tails?

The Future of Tail-Wagging Research

When to Start Crate Training

When to Start Potty Training

Pros:

Cons:

Smaller Is Not Always Better

No Dietary Source Is Perfect

How Much Apple Can My Dog Have?

Dogs Can Eat Applesauce

How to Groom a Dog at Home

Grooming Anxiety

Brushing Your Dog

Bathing a Dog at Home

Trimming Nails

Cleaning Teeth

Haircuts

Causes of Dog Pneumonia

Diagnosis of Pneumonia

Treatment of Dog Pneumonia

Loss of Appetite in Dogs

Loss of Appetite in Breeding Dogs

Adolescents

Canine Secret Eating

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