It’s very disconcerting when your well-housetrained dog suddenly starts having accidents in the house. It may be human nature to think he’s doing it to spite you, but that’s not the case – a well-trained dog doesn’t just start soiling indoors on a whim. There’s a legitimate reason it’s happening, and you owe it to your dog to find out why.
Here’s what you need to do:
1. Explore possible medical causes of your dog’s accidents.
Something as simple as a urinary-tract infection or as complex as diabetes (causes increased thirst and water consumption, which causes increased urination) can be the cause of your dog’s indoor puddles. There are many common medical causes of increased urination. Gastrointestinal distress, which causes anything from slightly loose stools to liquid diarrhea, can prompt your dog to defecate indoors as well. Any dog can have an accident, but if yours has uncharacteristically started house soiling regularly, get thee to thy veterinarian as soon as possible for a complete workup.
2. Check if medications are causing your dog to soil the house.
A number of canine medications used to treat common health conditions can also cause increased water consumption followed by increased urination. Prednisone, used to treat a variety of ailments, is a prime example. Other medicines can cause gastrointestinal distress, which can also result in house soiling. If your dog is on any medications, ask your veterinarian whether that could be the cause of his break in training.
3. Look for possible stressors for your dog.
Urination and defecation can be a dog’s response to stress. Check your environment to see if there’s something going on that might provoke this stress response in your dog. Construction next door with loud machinery? Neighborhood kids who have discovered it’s fun to bang on your door to tease the dog? A watch alarm beeping in a drawer? Set up your laptop camera or nanny cam and see if you can make a correlation between stimuli, stress, and soiling. If you can’t find a specific trigger, then evaluate your dog’s total stress load and see if removing as many stressors as possible can help him return to his prior fastidious habits.
4. Evaluate your routine.
Are you working overtime a lot? Stopping on the way home at a local pub for some face time with your new honey? Perhaps your dog was just barely holding it with legs tightly crossed before, and the extra time it’s taking you to get home now is just more than he can handle. If so, and if you can’t return to your prior schedule, then make arrangements with a neighbor or family member to let your dog out at midday or late afternoon, or hire a good petsitting service to do it.
5. Revisit basic housetraining lessons.
It’s worth putting serious energy into discerning the cause of your dog’s house soiling. If you discover and remove the cause of his problem, your dog may immediately return to his former pristine ways.
Or he may not. If that’s the case, or if you simply can’t find a reason, it’s time to go back to basic housetraining. You probably won’t have to implement the puppy “every hour on the hour” routine, but you do need to make sure he gets outside more often than he has to go. If you work all day, this might mean putting him back in a crate or exercise pen until he is successfully retrained, and hiring a professional petsitter (or arranging with a friend or neighbor) to let him out for a potty break at least once, preferably two or even three times during the day.
Just keep in mind that there’s a reason your housetrained dog might eliminate indoors – and neither spite, anger, jealousy, nor any other human emotion we might blame has anything to do with it. It’s up to you to find the reason and help him return to spotless living.
When my husband asked me to come to the shelter where he worked to meet the 8-year-old Australian Shepherd he had fallen in love with and wanted to adopt, of course I said yes. When Paul first met Missy, she threw herself on her back at his feet, and he was hooked. When I saw her striking red merle coat, her stunning “odd eyes” (one brown, one blue) and her delightful personality, I was smitten, too, and didn’t need any arm-twisting from my husband to agree to add this beautiful girl to our family. She slipped into her place in our home with barely a ripple, just as did Mandy, an 8-year-old tri-color Rough Collie and my first senior adoption, some 30 years prior.
If you are embarking on a senior adoption adventure, you’re likely to have many questions about your new old dog. What should you expect? How active will he be? How much management will he require? Should you plan to do any training with him? Will he need any training? If so, how much, what kind, and when? We asked several different trainers to share their wisdom on senior-dog adoptions.
Realistic Expectations
While adult-dog adoptions often go as smoothly as Mandy’s and Missy’s, they don’t always. There can be immense benefits inherent in adopting a dog who may already be housetrained and well beyond the puppy chewing and adolescent stages. However, because senior-dog adoptions aren’t always trouble-free, it’s safest to make no assumptions about your new adult canine family member.
Cindy Mauro, CPDT-KA, of Cindy Mauro Dog Training in West Milford, New Jersey, is very familiar with the rewards and challenges of older-dog adoptions.
“I have adopted many senior dogs. The last two were 13-plus years, and I’m expecting a senior girl to come to me in a couple weeks from a puppy-mill rescue,” she says.
“I keep in mind that training may require changing old habits, which requires patience. I never assume that the older dog is already trained, so instead of setting myself up for disappointment, I start off as I would any new dog – with a plan in place for training and management as soon as she comes in the door. I am pleasantly surprised and pleased any time things go easier than I thought they would.”
Absent solid information to the contrary, behave as though your new dog is not housetrained. He may have belonged to someone who forced him to soil indoors so he thinks carpeting is the appropriate substrate on which to eliminate, or maybe he spent the first eight years of his life with only shoes and sofa cushions for chew toys. Or, although he may be physically capable of “holding it” because he’s a mature adult, he’s lived outdoors all his life and never learned rules for indoor living.
Plan on implementing a senior-dog training and management plan that will set him up for success, by using an “every hour on the hour” puppy housetraining protocol. Also, practice diligent puppy-proofing – putting everything away that your new dog might view as a potential chew object. With a little luck he will quickly show you that your precautions are unnecessary and you can relax your standards. If, however, your precautions are justified, you will have set him up to succeed by not allowing him to be reinforced even one time for unwanted behaviors in his new environment. This will help him to learn new rules and appropriate new behaviors much more quickly.
My standard practice of keeping small Tupperware containers of treats in every room will serve you well with your senior adoptee, as will a never-ending supply of cookies in your pockets. You don’t want to miss a single opportunity to reinforce him for doing the right thing as the two of you create your relationship.
There’s No Hurry
This sort of proactive management will help you and your new dog get off on the right foot, but when it comes to actual training, it’s wise to take it slow with your senior adoptee, unless he makes it clear he’s ready for a fast track. Christine Danker, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP, PMCT3, of Hemlock Hollow Dog Training in Albany, New York, offers these useful tips:
Give the older dog a quiet place to settle in for a few days. This should be located somewhere that enables her to see and/or hear everything going on in the house, or to retreat without disturbances if she prefers.
Plan on being home, or at least reduce your regular schedule considerably, so you can observe the new senior. Will she be afraid to be left in a room behind a baby gate? Will she be comfortable in a crate? Is she housetrained? Does she have hearing loss or mobility issues?
Slowly integrate the new senior into a house with other dogs. Was the new dog living alone? With other dogs? An active younger dog could be too rambunctious for a senior, but if their sizes are similar, the senior may really enjoy interacting with another dog.
Remember, a mature dog who lived for many years in one home can take longer to adjust to the sudden changes in his life than a younger dog might.
“Be mindful that a senior dog may have formed a strong bond with his former family,” says Dawn Kalinowksi, CPDT-KA, of Poised Pups, LLC, in Norfolk, Virginia. “Realize that he may even be mourning the loss of his beloved humans and the familiarity of his previous home. Don’t overwhelm him. It’s important to go slow and allow him time to bond with his new family and settle into this new environment.”
Susan Sarubin, PMCT-2, CPDT-KA, of Pawsitive Fit LLC, in Easton, Maryland, is in total agreement.
“Dogs who are re-homed later in life may need a more extended period of adjustment to a new home, given their longer history of behavior in their old home. Many older dogs come with additional fears and anxieties that extend beyond just normal adjusting to a new environment or new humans. For those dogs, the best way of dealing with this may be to just give the dog space, allowing him to choose where he wants to be, and when he wants to be with you and your family.
“Sometimes I think we’re in too much of a rush to teach older adopted dogs the behaviors we ultimately want them to learn to successfully assimilate into the family. Unless behavior is truly problematic and needs immediate attention, allow time for the dog to view you as predictable, safe, and the source of wonderful things (petting, treats, toys, walks, etc.). Teaching new behaviors will be easier to train once your new dog is less stressed and trusts you. Be patient, capture the behaviors you like, and forgo dedicated training sessions until your dog is happily interacting with you and appears calm and relaxed in his new home.”
Getting Along With Others
If you already have other four-legged family members, helping your new old dog adjust to his new home includes careful introductions and a management plan that protects your senior adoptee from the unwanted attentions of younger, more active dogs.
Here are some recommendations from Sharon Messersmith, owner of Canine Valley Training in Reading, Pennsylvania, who says, “If you are adding a senior dog into your household with younger dogs, specific training with all dogs will help with the transition.”
Teach all dogs to wait at steps to allow your older dog to go first, or vice versa.
Give each dog her own space and teach all your dogs to respect each others’ spaces.
An older dog might not be able to tolerate constant play all day. Give her a crate or room that is just for her when she needs some alone time.
Be Considerate of Physical Needs
Finally, keep in mind that your senior adoptee may have mobility issues that impact his daily routine in your home. Past injuries or simply age-related arthritis may dictate that you assist him with getting into vehicles, going upstairs, or even navigating the small raised threshold of a doorway. While Missy was able to climb our stairs to the second-floor bedroom for most of her time with us, for the last year of her life I routinely assisted her. In her final few weeks she slept downstairs, as it became too much of an ordeal to ask her to climb. Make sure water bowls and beds are easily accessible for your mobility-challenged new old dog, and consider installing ramps where possible to make life easier for the oldster.
Training an Old Dog
You may or may not need or want to (or have to) invest much energy into training your new old dog. Your own preference as well as your individual dog’s personality and abilities can guide you here. If you win the adoption lottery and your new family member is already housetrained and has decent manners (like Missy and Mandy), you can slide on the training.
You may also discover that your adoptee has some mobility issues that limit his physical capabilities. When I first met her, I noticed that Missy had a slight limp. When we had radiographs taken we found that her right hind leg was an inch shorter than her left due to a prior broken leg injury that hadn’t been properly treated. If we had ambitious goals for her, this might have been disappointing. As it was, since we only wanted her to be a happy farm dog, it wasn’t devastating – it only meant that we needed to watch for arthritis as she aged and alleviate her pain as needed.
Most trainers recommend taking a slow training approach with senior adoptees – slower than you might with a younger dog. Peaceable Paws trainer Laura Nalven, PMCT, shares an experience she had with a recent client:
“I’m reminded of someone in my classes who adopted a senior dog (probably 10 years old or so) just a week or so before class,” she relates. “She wanted to start training immediately because she remembered how much fun her previous (and much younger) dog had and how much it helped them bond.
“The old boy couldn’t see anything more than about eight inches from his face if it wasn’t moving, and his owner hadn’t realized this limitation in the short time they’d been together. Hearing or vision problems, coupled with general achiness, can make group classes full of bouncy adolescents an overwhelming experience. The class environment just stressed this dog out, and his owner felt like she wasn’t doing enough to bond with him.
“I’d suggest that you allow older dogs a longer period to adjust to their new home than you might a younger dog. If they’re peppy and eager to do training games, go for it. But if they’re laid back and just want to sit in the sun all day, let them.”
Clean Slate? Or Highly Experienced?
Nan Marks of Silver Spring, Maryland, is a Peaceable Paws Academy graduate who trains at Capital Dog Training Club in Silver Spring. She is also a veteran adopter of mature dogs. She shares her thoughts about training:
“This topic is near and dear to my heart. In recent years I have adopted a Rough Collie, Robbie, at age 8; a large bronze (Golden/Chow/Newfoundland?) mix, Bruce, at age 10; and most recently another 8-year-old Rough Collie, Lucy.
“All three were basically outdoor dogs; two of the three had been tied out their entire lives. These dogs have taught me two primary things: first, never assume that they won’t learn and enjoy learning just because they are older; and second, let their behavior, not their age, tell you what they are willing to try. All three became delightful companions, trained and active therapy dogs, two of the three learned some agility, and one competed and titled in obedience and canine freestyle.”
On one hand, your senior dog may come to you will little or no training, as did Marks’ dogs, described above. On the other, he may have had some training with the less-than-positive methods that are still all too common in the real world.
Peaceable Paws Academy graduate Jackie Moyano trains at WOOFS! in Arlington, Virginia, and Coventry School for Dogs in Columbia, Maryland, and also volunteers at the Animal Welfare League of Arlington, where she enjoys matching prospective adopters with appropriate senior dogs. She suggests having fun with your dog while introducing him to a new training relationship with humans based on mutual trust.
“While your mature dog may come to you knowing ‘sit’, ‘down,’ and ‘stay,’ you may not know the training methods used to teach these cues,” says Moyano. “Why not take a positive-reinforcement tricks class? Not only could this provide mental stimulation for your mature dog, it could accelerate your bonding!”
It Depends
So, the best answer to any question about a “new old dog” is . . . “It depends.” He may come to you already trained, or you may need to do a lot of management while you find out who he is and how you can best meet his needs. You may be able to jump right into a training program, or he may need time to settle in and take training at a slower pace. In any case, be prepared to fall every bit as deeply in love with your senior adoptee as you have with previous puppies and younger dogs who have been part of your family.
Just last year we said sad goodbyes to our beloved Missy when, at age 14, her injury-related arthritis finally dictated that we let her go. Although we were her humans for only six of her 14 years, it was as painful a loss as any we’ve experienced. When you adopt a new old dog, since you don’t have as much time to look forward to, you learn to treasure the years you do have with them.
Senior Successes
There is an endless supply of “new old dog” happy-ending stories like Missy’s and Mandy’s. Twelve-year-old Scooter is a beloved member of our family. We adopted the little Pomeranian five years ago when he was on the euthanasia list at our shelter after he failed his assessment due to his resource guarding (easily managed in our child-free home).
Trainer Susan Sarubin tells of her most recent adoption:
“The transformation in my 7 1/2-year-old adopted Rhodesian Ridgeback, Andy, has been quite remarkable since we adopted him over a year ago. There have been many ‘firsts’ in his behavior that have brought me tears of joy. Until recently, I spent little time with him that was dedicated to training – he experienced only the training that goes on with normal daily interaction, with rewards for desirable behavior. He has blossomed into the dog that he was never allowed to be in his previous life. We accomplished that in large part by letting him to come to it on his own. We have done 16 months of informal shaping, really. Now he learns behaviors on cue quickly – and most important, he’s a happy boy.”
Sometimes people worry that they won’t be able to bond with an older dog when they’ve missed out on the puppy and young-dog sharing experiences.
Trainer Nan Marks puts those fears to rest with these beautiful words:
“I remember early on fearing I would not love these older guys as much. Boy, was I wrong! For the most part I’ve found them easier to bond with quickly because they are more fully who they are already and not surfing the waves of puppyhood and adolescence.
“I also remember fearing that having only a short span to share with them would be too painful. I can only say that for the two who have now moved on, they were with me for three and four years, respectively, and those wonderful, loving years felt gloriously long to me in all the things that make having dogs meaningful.”
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog-training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also the author of many books on positive training. She has a terrific brand-new book, How to Foster Dogs: From Homeless to Homeward Bound.
It never fails: Im concentrating, reading or writing at my computer. Otto is snoozing on the floor or loveseat behind me. Time flows. The outside world fades from my consciousness. And then, from right behind me, WOW WOW WOW WOOF! As I pull myself off the ceiling, I realize that once again, and from a dead sleep, Otto heard a FedEx or UPS truck round the corner several doors down from my house. He just has to announce its imminent passage by our door or, even more outrageous, its stopping in front of our house, and the entry through the front gate, of that guy, the one who leaves packages on the porch.
Why oh why do dogs get so riled up about delivery trucks? And why cant Otto make the connection between the arrival of so many tasty treats and toys for him to try, and the nice people who deliver them? My only theory is that he does it because it works; the trucks leave very quickly when he barks. Of course, the trucks also leave very quickly when he doesnt bark, so maybe thats a bad theory. It must be the unpredictable entry of the stranger through the gate and THUMP of packages on the porch. Especially because he doesnt bark at the garbage truck, the water meter readers (they dont come in the gate, the meter is out under the sidewalk), or the local buses that pass by every hour or so and sound a lot like the delivery trucks (to me).
Otto used to wait for and bark at the postal delivery people, too, but since the folks who have our route started carrying dog treats, now they get the benefit of Ottos doubt. He wags his tail and whines, instead, when he hears the sound of the mail cart being pushed down the sidewalk. When the postal workers leave packages on the porch, they almost always detour off the porch and give Otto a cookie through the chain-link gate at the side of the house. They have to go out of their way to do it, yet they almost always do. And that once-in-a-while cookie has made all the difference.
If Im paying attention to the sounds of the outside world, and by some luck, I hear the truck before he does, I can say, Otto! to get his attention, and reach (or get up to go find) a treat. This completely forestalls the sudden loud WOOF!, although he still will look toward the door and make a soft growling noise in his throat as he crunches his cookie. The problem is, Im usually not paying attention to the sounds of the outside world. During FedEx and UPS delivery hours, Im usually working and deep in thought, completely vulnerable to the sudden WOOF! Hes a big dog, and has a BIG, deep voice, and I swear its shortening my life.
What sets off your dogs alarms? And what have you done about it?
I’ve written previously about my aversion to letting veterinary technicians take my dogs “in the back” for blood draws and other quick procedures. My main reason for not wanting to send Otto in the back is that he has an irrational fear of slippery floors. As soon as he thinks a floor is slippery — it doesn’t even seem to matter whether I find the floor to be slippery or not — he starts to walk like Bambi on a frozen pond, scrambling in such as way as to ensure that he will fall.
He’s actually made a LOT of progress, largely because I’ve never dragged or forced him across a floor that freaked him out (contrary to LOTS of advice from the kind of trainers I don’t listen to). He may quail for a moment at the entrance to a pet supply store, when he steps off the entry carpet and finds himself on a sea of tile, but then he will gather himself and walk cautiously along with me. His turns will be wide and wobbly, and he will pant a bit with the effort of staying upright, but he’s game, he’ll go. That’s hard-won progress — and admittedly, I don’t put him through it a lot, or for no good reason. Any time we have to navigate a super slippery place, I make it as rewarding — and brief — as possible for him.
Veterinary clinics almost always have tile or other hard, smooth floors — they are the easiest to keep clean. But they present a challenge to Otto, and knowing this, I protect him as best I can by telling the techs, as they lead us to exam rooms, “I need to let him go slow and pick his own path; he’s really cautious on slippery floors.” And — usually — I don’t allow them to “take him in the back”, because they don’t know this behavior as well as I do, and I don’t want him to backslide. If he gets scared and puts the brakes on for a second, I can encourage him with a word and he will start walking again. At clinics, they will almost always respond to a dog locking up by just dragging the dog — gently, but dragging nonetheless! — through the door into the back. Most dogs are afraid to leave their owners and are fine (if not better behaved) once the door between the “back” and their owner is closed. Otto is happy to go with the techs, he likes them! Inconvenient though it may be, it’s really all about the FLOOR.
My son was visiting over the weekend. He was delivering his young dog, Cole, to me to dog-sit while he and his girlfriend take a short vacation (spring break). We took both of our dogs to the vet on Sunday. Eight-or-so-month-old Cole needed to be weighed again (he’s growing like a weed) to make sure we are giving him the right amount of heartworm preventive, and to receive said preventive; and he received his first rabies vaccination. (It was given later than usual, as we have been sorting out his immune response to his other vaccines.) Otto needed his annual examination to renew his prescription for heartworm preventive. I also wanted the clinic to take a blood sample to send off for his annual vaccine titer test. (He hasn’t been vaccinated for anything but rabies since I adopted him in 2008; his titers come back strong and positive every year.)
As usual, Otto hesitated at the door of the clinic, and then walked into the waiting room carefully. He happily got onto the scale, which was covered with a paper advertisement for some veterinary product, and which made the scale less slippery than the floor. And within a minute, we walked into an exam room. He was doing GREAT, for him. He started panting a bit, but otherwise looked happy enough to be there. The tech came in and greeted both dogs, and took the temperature of each, and administered Cole’s rabies vaccine. Then she asked if she could take Otto in the back for the blood sample.
I hesitated for a moment, but he was doing great, and she seemed to have a good handling technique with him. I actually considered for a moment that I didn’t want to come across as nutty and overprotective. So I broke my own rule, and said, “Sure, you can take him in the back.” To my credit, I also said, “Please just let him take his time, don’t pull him if he stops for a second, he’s just REALLY cautious on the slippery floors.” She said, “No problem!” and she chirped at him, and he went with her through the door into the back quite cheerfully, no hesitation or balking — though with the usual “walking on ice” gait he uses on slippery floors.
They were gone a bit longer than it takes to take a blood sample, and my son and I were discussing what might have gone awry when the tech and Otto walked back in — accompanied by the unmistakable odor of released anal glands. My son quickly pulled his shirt over his nose and mouth, as I asked, “What happened?! He’s usually good with blood draws!” The tech said, “Oh, he was really good! He did that right afterward, for some reason. We tried to clean it off . . . do you want us to bathe him for you?”
I answered no; I didn’t want him back out of my sight again! And I was instantly so mad at myself. Why is it so hard to trust one’s own instincts, and just gently request (then insist, if need be) that the procedure be done right there, not “in the back”?
On the way home (with the car windows open), my son and I discussed what we thought probably happened; we were both certain that he must have stalled on the floor at some corner and someone tried to pull him along, forcefully enough to panic him, if just for a moment. The tech said that he was good for the actual blood sample, and I would expect him to be; I’ve been present many times for the procedure with him, and he’s never seemed to notice or mind either the restraint or the needle.
I know that veterinarians and technicians have many good reasons to prefer the dog to be “in the back” for routine procedures, and in some cases, it might be truly necessary. However, this was a reminder to me that I need to insist, every time, that for simple things like blood samples, Otto stays in the exam room with me.
Otto is mature enough now that I don’t think the scary event will scar his sensitive psyche; he was perfectly cheerful and comfortable with the veterinarian’s exam immediately after this. And he was due for a bath anyway. But I feel like I failed him — and it could have been worse.
What’s your policy on this practice at the vet’s office?
Osteosarcoma is by far the most common form of bone cancer in dogs. About 75 to 85 percent of tumors occur on the legs, but can develop in any bone. Middle-aged and older large- and giant-breed dogs are most commonly affected. The first sign is usually limping, which may start suddenly, or develop gradually, and is often accompanied by swelling at the tumor site. Within one to three months, the pain will be constant, and the tumor can cause the bone to fracture. Radiographs (x-rays) are usually all that is needed to confirm the diagnosis.
Because osteosarcoma has already metastasized (spread) in 90 to 95 percent of cases before it is discovered, treatment is aimed at prolonging life and improving quality of life, primarily by reducing pain. Surgery is the first line of treatment, including amputation of the limb, if practical. Surgery is rarely curative, but amputation leaves the dog pain-free to enjoy life for a time. Chemotherapy following surgical removal can prolong that time. Palliative therapies such as radiation are used for pain relief, especially when amputation is not an option. Drugs called bisphosphonates can be tried to inhibit bone destruction and relieve pain.
About half of dogs treated with surgery and chemotherapy will live for at least one year, and up to half of those will be alive after two years; occasionally, some dogs will be completely cured. Dogs treated only with amputation or palliative radiation therapy live on average about six months after diagnosis.
Now, new therapies are emerging that offer hope for prolonged life. Dr. Nichola Mason, an assistant professor at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, is conducting clinical trials using immunotherapy to treat dogs with osteosarcoma.
Immunotherapy is the term used for vaccines that stimulate the dog’s own immune system to destroy cancer cells. The vaccine Dr. Mason is using consists of genetically modified bacteria designed to express a tumor marker known as “Her2/neu,” which is also expressed in approximately 40 percent of canine osteosarcomas, as well as other types of cancers. If the vaccine triggers the immune system to attack the bacteria, the expectation is that it will then go on to seek out and eliminate any tumor cells remaining after chemotherapy. The vaccine is given intravenously once a week for three weeks following amputation and chemotherapy. As of this writing, 12 dogs have been treated with the vaccine therapy. Side effects have been minimal, consisting primarily of short-term fever and sometimes nausea.
Of the first six dogs who received the vaccine, one dog who received a low dose of the vaccine had developed lung metastases, while the other five remained free of cancer a year later. Three of those dogs remained alive and cancer-free in November 2013, 500 or more days after initial therapy.
Dr. Mason hopes to include dogs unable to undergo amputation in future trials. She is also looking at the possibility of using the vaccine to prevent osteosarcoma in certain breeds at particularly high risk of the disease.
Palladia (toceranib phosphate), a drug approved in 2009 for treatment of mast cell cancer, has also shown promise in treating osteosarcoma. Studies are currently underway at Colorado State University and the University of Pennsylvania to evaluate the effectiveness of toceranib for the treatment of dogs with osteosarcoma.
Another clinical trial using targeted treatment for canine osteosarcoma in dogs is being conducted in Portland, Oregon. Doctors at the Keller Laboratory at Oregon Health and Science University have teamed with veterinarians at Oregon State University and Colorado State University to study osteosarcoma treatment in dogs, hoping it will lead to better treatment for children with this disease. The goal is to develop personalized treatment by testing dozens of drugs on a tumor to determine which is most effective for that individual. Wally, the first dog treated in this manner, survived for 29 months after his treatment. Dr. Keller hopes to find more than 40 dogs with osteosarcoma to participate in the clinical trial.
For more information:
Canine cancer studies at the University of Pennsylvania:
tinyurl.com/vet-upenn-studies
tinyurl.com/vet-upenn-trials
Canine cancer studies at the University of Colorado:
tinyurl.com/vet-colo-trials
Canine cancer studies at the OHSU’s Keller Laboratory:
tinyurl.com/vet-kellerlab
Severe and/or recurrent ear infections cause more than chronic discomfort or even maddening acute pain for your dog; inadequately or belatedly treated, they can cause total deafness. I once helped transport a rescued Bouvier who had suffered such serious chronic infections that she required a total ear canal ablation (TECA, a procedure in which the entire middle ear canal is surgically removed). While such operations are usually a last-resort effort to both reduce the dogs suffering and preserve the dogs inner ear (hearing organ) and ability to hear, in this case, the damage from her many past infections was already done and she was completely deaf.
While such drastic measures may occasionally be indicated for dealing with long-standing ear infections, taking a proactive approach to your dogs ear health may save her from the need for radical treatment.
Signs of Trouble
If your dog frequently shakes her head, scratches at her head or ears, rubs her head along the carpet or furniture, sits with her head cocked to one side, or whines while doing any of the above, odds are that she has or is developing an ear infection. You may also see some redness at the opening of the ear, sometimes extending outward into the pinna (ear flap).
Normally, a dogs ear has very little or no discharge, and what little you may observe is a beige/yellow waxy substance. In an infected ear, you may find anything from dry black stuff (usually associated with ear mites) to brown waxy discharge (normal, yeast, or bacterial) to pus (bacterial).
An infection brings inflammation to the area, as the body attempts to flood the infected tissue with pathogen-fighting agents and flush pathogens and damaged cells away. But inflammation is always a double-edged sword, for it also can cause pain as the tissue swells. This is never more true than when the swelling is inside the ear canal already a small, sensitive space. As the tissue inside the ear swells, the dogs hearing may be diminished, and his balance may be affected, too. Chronic inflammation can lead to ulceration, scarring, calcification, and even rupture of the ear drum.
The pain and irritation may cause him to shake his head and claw at the ear, damaging the tissue even further and causing even more swelling. Head-shaking and scratching can also cause blood vessels in the flap of the ear to burst, causing the ear flap to swell like a balloon. This very painful condition, known as an ear hematoma, requires immediate veterinary attention. If left untreated, it can cause permanent disfigurement of the ear flap. Chronic ear pain can also cause the dog to develop behavioral issues; he may grow increasingly cranky in general and specifically defensive about being touched on the head so much so that he reflexively snaps at and bites an unsuspecting person who pats his head or fondles his sore ear.
Its imperative to get ear infections cleared up as soon as possible and not expect them to resolve on their own.
At the Vet
Heading to your veterinarian for help with an ear infection is always a good idea, especially if you havent had previous experience with a canine ear infection and you arent certain what it looks like, or if a previously treated infection has recurred. If you are going to take your dog to the vet, dont clean his ears that day; it maybe helpful for the veterinarian to see the appearance and amount of the discharge.
The vet will clean and examine the ears, and usually will take a look deep inside the ear canal with an otoscope that is, if the swelling in the ear canal is not too severe. Some brave veterinarians will also put their noses near the dogs ear and take a quick sniff; the odor of an infected ear is distinctive.
In mild cases, after cleaning the ear well, veterinarians will generally administer and give the owner a topical ear solution containing antibiotic, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory agents. This is typically used for a dogs first or infrequent ear infection because, no matter what the causative organism, this type of topical will address it. In many cases, thats all there is to the ear infection event.
However, if the infection recurs, its likely that the treatment was incomplete, whether because the solution wasnt applied as frequently or as well as required (sometimes the outer ear looks good, but the infection continues to fester deep within the ear canal), or because the infectious organisms developed resistance to the antibiotic in the solution. In these cases, we may wonder why the infection keeps coming back when, in reality, it never ever went away.
When an ear infection recurs (if not before!), culturing a sample of the exudate is a must, to make sure that the next treatment is targeted to treat the specific pathogen. Oral antibiotics may be indicated in such severe cases in addition to topical therapy. Note that oral antibiotics are not the first go-to for a one-off ear infection and are rarely successful as the sole therapy.
Chronic cases may also be helped by a Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) approach including acupuncture, and/or when used preventively such as prior to spring/summer if dealing with seasonal allergies. Also, acupuncture and laser therapy can relieve pain associated with infections.
Early Care
Integrative veterinarian Susan Wynn, DVM, CVA, CVCH, AHG, who practices at BluePearl Georgia Veterinary Specialists in Atlanta, believes that learning to identify and detect the earliest stage of infection is a dog owners best shot at preventing a serious infection and the need for veterinary attention. The switch from being normal and comfortable to infected can be subtle and fast; the ears may have no redness and then suddenly develop mild levels of redness and discomfort with minimal discharge.
This Maltese has a history of recurrent ear infections, and would have benefited from more frequent veterinary and owner care. On this visit, Dr. Diane Castle, of Union Hill Animal Hospital in Canton, GA, found his ear canals so swollen that they could not be examined with an otoscope.
Infections are usually a secondary problem, says Dr. Wynn. People should be watching for the onset of that primary cause, rather than waiting for infections to develop.
Be vigilant and check your dogs ears regularly; the moment that you notice redness or discharge, you need to clean the ears. Yeast and bacteria are normal inhabitants of a dogs ear in small amounts. A variety of health conditions can cause yeast or bacteria populations to spike; the goal of cleaning is to create an inhospitable environment in the ear for this to occur.
Dr. Wynn likes Zymox Enzymatic Ear Solution, with or without the anti-inflammatory hydrocortisone. (Zymox is available in two formulas: an enzymatic ear cleanser for preventive maintenance, and an enzymatic ear solution for treating mild infections).
Another ear wash that may help prevent infection is Halos Cloud 9 Herbal Ear Wash. It contains a variety of essential oils in a base of witch hazel.
This dog’s ear barely resembles an ear. Chronic infections and long-term swelling have caused permanent tissue damage and blockage of the ear canal.
One of my favorite recipes for a cleansing ear wash comes from The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, by WDJ contributor CJ Puotinen. Combine 1/8 teaspoon lavender essential oil with ¾ cup witch hazel, 1 tablespoon powdered boric acid, and ¼ cup aloe vera juice or gel. Shake well before using.
Nancy Kay, DVM, DACVIM, author of Speaking for Spot, has a recipe for a homemade drying agent that involves mixing one part white vinegar, one part water, and one part 70% isopropyl alcohol (avoid the 90% variety). But she cautions that we not use this concoction in our dogs ears before discussing it with a veterinarian. Dr. Wynn concurs; she says she no longer cleans ears with vinegar/water or vinegar/water/alcohol solutions. While inexpensive, the solutions can cause significant pain if the dogs ear canals are ulcerated from chronic inflammation.
Others favor cleansing the ear with a solution containing apple cider vinegar, which is often touted for its infection-fighting properties. As healthy as it may be, please note that this vinegar also stings inflamed tissue.
How often you clean your dogs ears depends on your dog and her lifestyle; for example, dogs who swim regularly may need frequent ear cleaning. But more is not necessarily better; over-cleaning can be too drying and may lead to other problems.
If your dog has very occasional signs of a mild ear infection, cleaning his ears well may stop the infection in its tracks. But if the infection persists or worsens, take your dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible for further investigation.
The Root Cause
In most cases of recurring ear infections, clearing up otitis (inflammation in the ear) is just the start of your work. Figuring out what caused your dog to develop the ear infection is your next assignment.
Far and away, allergies are the most common cause of ear infections. Chronic inflammation, leading to infection as a secondary effect, is most frequently caused by environmental allergies (such as pollen, mold, and dust mites), but food allergies can also cause inflammation. A visit to your veterinarian, or, best yet, a board-certified veterinary dermatologist, will be your best bet for identifying (and then avoiding) the triggers for your dogs recurrent ear infections.
Joel Griffies, DVM, a board-certified veterinary dermatologist (DACVD) who practices at the Animal Dermatology Clinic in Marietta, Georgia, explains that there are four factors involved in ear infections:
Primary: Allergies or diseases causing immunosuppression
Secondary: Bacterial and yeast infections (many people focus on this, but elimination of the bacteria and yeast often results in only temporary relief)
Perpetuating: Related to swelling of the ear (i.e., anatomical changes such as scarring) that accompanies infections
Predisposing: Excess hair in ear canal, pendulous ears, or very long ear canals
Dr. Griffies feels that the role of swimming (water in the ears) in the development of ear infections is exaggerated. Most dogs who get ear infections from swimming already had an ear prone to infections. That bit of water may have just pushed the infection over the edge, he says.
Dr. Wynn emphasizes that its important to understand the cause when choosing a treatment. In the case of allergies, she notes, Most people dont seem to know that the dogs allergies must be controlled to prevent the infections, and that isnt always easy to do. Treating this kind of recurrent infections with conventional or holistic strategies will fail, she says; finding and preventing the cause (rather than the symptoms) of the infection is the only permanent solution.
Dr. Wynn shares a cautionary tale about a client who had a wonderful agility dog who suffered from recurrent ear infections. When herbal/essential oil treatments didnt work well, the client consulted with a homeopath long-distance. Not a veterinarian, and unable to see the dogs ears, the practitioner recommended homeopathic treatments and suggested that the continued inflammation of the ear was essentially okay. Two years later, Dr. Wynn saw the dog again. The dogs ear canals were calcified and the dog had become aggressive due to her constant pain.
The best way to avoid ear infections? Dr. Griffies says, Probably the best answer can be obtained after an ear infection has occurred. Diagnosing and managing the underlying problem that is causing ear infections is the best method. We have many dogs who initially present for chronic otitis, but once their food allergies or environmental allergies are managed, they no longer suffer from recurrent infections.
One of the great things about sharing your life with a dog is . . . sharing your life with your dog! True dog lovers always look for opportunities to include their canine companions in their activities. Decisions about recreational selections are often made based on whether the dog can participate or not. A hike in the woods wins over a kayaking trip. An outdoor café gets the nod over a fancy restaurant. Relatives who frown on canines sharing holiday festivities might get passed over in favor of those who welcome your furry family member and even buy her presents.
We applaud those of you who seek to integrate your dogs as fully as possible into your lives. At the same time, we cringe when we see humans in public places allowing their canine pals to commit socially unacceptable acts. Each time this happens, it increases the odds that more public places will be deemed off-limits to dogs, even dogs whose humans are responsible.
There was a time when our society was much more tolerant of “dogs being dogs.” Dogs normally bark at things that are alarming to them, jump on those whom they are glad to see, and eliminate when and where they want to; these are normal behaviors – but not socially acceptable to human society. Our culture’s sensitivity to normal dog behavior (to say nothing of canine behaviors that are louder or larger or more aggressive than average) makes it even more imperative that those who take dogs out in public invest the time and energy to make sure those dogs are model canine citizens. The more crowded, noisy, and busy the environment, the more solid the dog’s behavior should be.
This starts, of course, with basic good-manners training, or what some still call “obedience” training. (We prefer the concept of “good manners,” implying the dog’s voluntary self-control, rather than the phrase “obedience,” which suggests submission to authority.) Dogs can learn good manners from a skilled owner working on her own, but for best results, we recommend well-run group classes (positive reinforcement methods, of course!). Group dog-training classes provide guidance and instruction, additional motivation to do the work, an opportunity to practice in the presence of distractions, a controlled situation for dog-and-human socialization, and a supportive social setting for the human to interact with other dog lovers.
In addition, some trainers offer specialized classes to help your dog learn how to integrate into the real world, including sessions that take place on city streets. These classes may be called things like “Real Life Class,” “Downtown Hound, or “K9 Ice Cream Social,” but what they all have in common are lessons to teach your dog to navigate scary sewer grates and manhole covers, and how to relax and be polite when joggers, skateboards, delivery trucks, and parents with baby strollers go past.
Model k9 citizen skills
The model canine citizen should at least be able to do the following half-dozen behaviors fluently and reliably if he is going to be out in public with you:
Walk politely on-leash. This requires that you spend time teaching your dog good leash manners in low-distraction environments, and gradually add distractions as he proves capable of handling them. He should be able to pass by humans and other dogs without trying to investigate or greet them, and sit or lie down quietly at his human’s side if she stops to chat or window-shop. (See “In Pursuit of a Loose Leash,” October 2012.)
Polite greetings. Fortunately there are still plenty of people out there who love dogs, and there will, inevitably, be people who want to interact with your dog in public. Your dog needs to be well socialized so that he can greet people safely, and well trained to greet people politely. Teach him that a self-controlled sit will elicit attention from strangers. If he tends to jump up after the initial polite greeting takes place, end greetings by turning quickly away and tossing a treat for him to chase away from the person he just met. He’ll start to anticipate the turn-and-treat instead of jumping up for more attention. (See “Keeping Four on the Floor,” May 2008.)
Settle. That outdoor café we mentioned earlier? If you want to take advantage of the ones that allow dogs to frequent the patio, you’d best have a dog who can lie quietly at your feet throughout the meal. You can use a formal “down-stay” or a less formal “settle” or “wait” behavior, but having your dog beg at, or worse, sample food from the table, is unacceptable. (See “Wait a Bit, Stay a While,” May 2001.)
Come. Much of the time your dog is in public he will be on a leash. But if you do have access to off-leash areas or if, heaven forbid, he should somehow slip his collar or otherwise get away from you, you have to be able to get him back. The secret to a solid recall (come) cue is a word that has tons of positive association for him and is never poisoned (i.e., never given a negative association). (See “Rocket Recalls,” September 2012.)
Leave it. Whether you’re walking on a city street or visiting friends in the country, your dog is bound to come across tempting items that you don’t want him to have, whether a bag of fast-food leavings in the gutter, a brazen skunk in the trail, or a baby’s face that’s just begging for a quick kiss! Your cheerful “Leave it” cue will forestall all kinds of trouble. (See “Request for Leave,” August 2008.)
Trade. For those times when the “Leave it” cue didn’t quite come in time, a practiced “Trade” can sometimes save the day. It won’t help much with the skunk, but your dog will promptly relinquish that bag of KFC chicken bones if you’ve taught him a solid “drop” behavior. In a pinch you can offer high-value treats to entice him to drop his prize (or scatter treats on the ground), but you’re safer training it in advance.
With your trained dog at your side, as long as you both refrain from committing other socially inappropriate acts, the two of you will be good ambassadors for the “dogs in public” crowd.
“Oh dear,” you may be thinking to yourself. “What socially inappropriate acts is she talking about? Has my dog committed any? Have I?” We bet most WDJ readers are not likely to be guilty of the most egregious violations. But if you want to do a self-assessment, here’s a checklist of the societal faux pas we find most offensive:
Failure to scoop. It’s hard to believe that anyone today isn’t savvy enough to clean up her dog’s solid waste, but it happens. There is simply no excuse for this. If you happen to get caught out in public without a plastic bag (it can happen), you can always find a trash receptacle with newspaper, plastic, or some other material you can use to scoop.
Peeing on the Pansies. Of course dogs urinate in public, and we don’t expect you to carry around a cup to catch their liquid output. However, we do hope that you are considerate about whereyou allow your dog to pee. Canine urine can cause yellow spots on grass, which your suburban manicured-lawn neighbors are sure to resent. The urine can also kill flowers, stain walls and fences, and leave a strong ammonia odor, especially if your dog pees in the same spot every day.
If you’re hiking in the woods, this is not a big deal. But if you walk in groomed parks, suburbs, or cities, please “curb your dog” – that is, direct him to urinate in areas where humans aren’t likely to come in contact with it. Don’t allow him to pee on parking meters, newspaper boxes, bicycle racks, flower boxes, lovingly nurtured gardens, kiddie play equipment, or sports fields.
Kissing Babies. I may be a firm believer that exposure to dog germs is good for baby-human immune systems, but the parent of the child in that approaching stroller may disagree. Unless a child’s parent or caregiver invites your dog to make intimate contact and unless you know for a fact your dog adores children, your dog needs to stay out of the faces of babies and toddlers. Leave the baby-kissing to the politicians.
Tied Up on the street.This one is a major “don’t” – and yet we still see it happening all the time. Do not leave your dog tied up outside the store while you run in “just for a second” to grab something you need. You are putting your dog at huge risk if you do this – of being teased, stolen, injured, frightened – and perhaps feeling the need to bite someone in self-defense. There is no excuse, ever, for leaving your dog unattended in a public place.
Violating Leash Laws. I know: In some communities there are few, if any, places where your dog can legally run off leash. And off-leash dog parks can be risky to your dog unless they are among the minority of well-monitored public parks or privately owned and run. Still, scoffing at leash laws makes all dog owners look bad, and gives non-dog folks a very legitimate gripe. Bite the bullet, obey the laws, and spend some time cultivating friends with large fenced backyards where you can take your dog, or better yet, rural acreage where you can go hike with your pal.
Dog-Dog Greetings. There are some trainers (I am one of them) who suggest that allowing dogs to greet while on leash is not wise, due to the potential for creating leash-restraint frustration issues. Other trainers, however, help their students teach their dogs how greet other dogs politely on leash.
Whichever you prefer, it is still incumbent on you to make sure the owner of the other dog is agreeable to the dog-dog greeting. “It’s okay, my dog is friendly” is not an appropriate answer when another dog owner asks you not to let your dog approach. Always ask permission; don’t assume you can let your dog greet other dogs.
If your dog does not like to be approached while on leash, check out the DINOS (Dogs In Need Of Space) program and equipment (see www.dogsinneedofspace.com). The Yellow Dog Project is another resource for dogs who need space: see theyellowdogproject.com.
Jumping Up. Nothing turns off people about dogs in public faster than dogs who rudely plant their paws on a person’s clean clothes. If your dog hasn’t learned to greet politely as described above, don’t let him greet at all until he does.
Barking and Biting. This should go without saying, but if your dog goes over threshold in public and barks threateningly or even bites, he shouldn’t be there. Period. If you are doing behavior modification with him, you need to do it in an environment where he can stay below threshold and not threaten the safety of others who have a right to be in public places, too. Even excited barking can be frightening, especially to non-dog people. Work with your dog in places that are less arousing until he is ready for the real world.
If you somewhere without access to quiet, uncrowded places where you can take your dog for walks or exercise, or if you are having difficulty teaching him basic good-manners behaviors, seek the guidance of a qualified positive-behavior professional to help you manage his behavior while you help him learn how to cope with city life.
It’s important to be able to ask your dog to give something to you, especially something he is not supposed to have, and especially if you’re frequenting public places where he might pick something that belongs to someone else or that might be harmful to him. If you only take things away that are forbidden to him, he’ll learn to play the keep-away game, or worse, he may learn to resource-guard. The “trade” game will help you avoid these problems.
To teach “trade,” give your dog a toy or other object that he likes to play with. When he’s happily holding it in his mouth, offer him a high-value treat and as he drops the toy to take the treat, click the clicker (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and feed him the treat. Then give him back the toy or object. If he is reluctant to give up his toy at first, use a higher-value treat, and/or scatter-drop several treats on the floor.
Note: This is a two-handed exercise. Be sure to keep your dog’s mouth busy eating treats from your hand while you pick up the toy with your other hand.
When you know he’ll drop the toy as you present the treat, start giving the “Trade!” cue just before you offer the treat.
Vary the length of time between giving the cue and offering the treat, until your dog starts dropping the toy on cue even before you present the trade treat. (Continue to give him the treat after you click, even if he drops the toy on cue.) Do lots of repetitions until he drops the toy on cue every time.
Now do this with higher-value items, such as stuffed Kongs, hoof chews, and raw meaty bones. Slowly work your way up to very high-value objects. Because your dog has learned you will give the valuable object back each time, he should continue to be willing to trade even very high-value items in exchange for a treat, followed by the return of the item.
Of course, when he grabs a bag of chicken bones on the street you won’t give it back, but that will happen so infrequently that he’ll learn to happily give you things when you ask.
Note: If your dog shows any signs of resource-guarding when you try to teach him “Trade” (unwillingness to give up object, tension, hard stare, growl, snap, or hovering over or moving away with the object) we recommend you seek the assistance of a qualified positive-behavior professional.
Generations ago, the assumption was that Lassies just simply came home. They may have meandered, they may have wandered, but for the most part, a dog on the loose wasn’t something anyone batted an eye at.
Today, of course, that’s all changed. In many parts of the country, a more diligent dog culture – and increased compliance with leash laws – has ensured that the majority of companion dogs are safe behind secure fences, or inside houses or kennel runs when their owners cannot supervise them. When you do see a dog trotting around the neighborhood, the assumption is that he has escaped or was dumped, and is lost and/or imperiled. And the first impulse of most “dog people” is to try and catch him, before he wanders into traffic or another equally life-threatening situation.
Of course, like people, dogs have different personalities. Gregarious, well-adjusted dogs are typically easy to catch; they’ll just amble up to you, tail a-wagging, and the game is over. But other dogs may be insecure, timid, reactive, or undersocialized, and for them the experience of being out in the wide, wide world can be extremely disorienting, if not downright terrifying. In these cases, catching a panicked dog is something of an art. You need to know what will spook her, what will soothe her, what precise move you need to make, and when to make it.
Here are some dos and don’ts for landing a lost dog back home, safe and sound. And that applies to both of you.
DON’T Grab
This really is common sense, but sometimes, in the excitement of trying to secure a dog on the loose, instinct takes over – with unfortunate results. Consider a news report from January, in which a California woman attempting to rescue a pit bull from an interstate ramp in West Sacramento grabbed for the dog and got badly bitten in the ear.
Suffice it to say that that’s a blueprint for how not to capture a loose dog: Don’t make sudden moves, and don’t try to immobilize a loose dog by clutching him to your bosom. That lady would have been better off opening her car door and trying to entice the dog to jump in, using the vehicle as a “trap” of sorts until help could be summoned.
“If you lunge, dogs may bite because they’re afraid,” says Bonnie Folz of Howard Beach, New York. She first got involved in finding lost dogs with the case of Vivi the Whippet, the dog who famously found herself loose on the tarmac at New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport on the way home from competing at the Westminster dog show in 2006. Vivi was sighted for months, but never caught. Folz was inspired to continue helping owners of lost dogs, especially lost sighthounds, which can quickly turn feral when on the lam.
DON’T Chase
You’ll need to override your biological programming here: It’s human nature to run after something you want. The problem is, the dog will likely run even faster, sometimes directly into danger – in particular, oncoming traffic. When trying to catch a lost dog, often less is more.
The same applies if you see a dog wandering in traffic, in particular a highway or busy road: Don’t jump out. Instead, put on your flashers and follow the dog as best you can, provided you do not create a traffic disturbance. Or pull over somewhere safe, and call highway patrol to see if an officer can assist in stopping and slowing traffic. Bottom line: Don’t take any chances in getting hit yourself.
DON’T Talk
It is incredibly counterintuitive, when you see a loose dog, not to call to him, slap your leg encouragingly, or otherwise send an auditory signal that you are happy to see him and would like him to get closer. But that’s exactly what you shouldn’t do, says Kat Albrecht, a police officer turned pet detective from Federal Way, Washington, who founded the non-profit Missing Pet Partnership in order to help communities develop services to find lost companion animals.
“When dogs are flooded with adrenaline, they are very reactive, and they make associations with things,” she explains. “The first person who encounters a lost dog might call the dog or pat their leg or whistle, and if the dog is already in that fight or flight mode, he will likely panic.” The dog may then associate those overtures with something frightening and overwhelming, and bolt whenever he hears them, even if it’s his owner who makes them; he may simply react without processing any of that information.
DO Use Calming Signals
On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals, the 2005 book by Norwegian dog trainer Turid Rugaas, popularized the concept of mimicking the body language that dogs use to communicate peaceful intentions, avoid conflict, and defuse tension.
Calming signals include yawning, using peripheral vision and blinking (never long, direct stares), and oblique approaches (moving from the side, not head on).
You’re not very likely to catch a dog if you are moving toward him in a direct line, standing ramrod straight and staring at him. “What you’re doing with this is mimicking a predator,” Albrecht says.
DO Go “Low and Slow”
The key, Folz explains, is to get down to the dog’s level, and be extremely patient. She recalls a friend who has Pharaoh Hounds who once spent three long hours sitting nearly motionless in a field before a dog who had escaped at a nearby show decided to go over and check him out – and try his treats.
Albrecht also recommends dropping to the ground, then faking indifference. Her favorite move is to pull out a bait bag that makes a lot of noise when touched – crinkly potato-chip bags filled with hot dogs are a favorite – and pretend to indulge in a movable feast, dropping morsels on the floor all the while.
“Say ‘Nummy, nummy,’ and make lip-smacking noises – that’s a universal language to a dog,” Albrecht says. “If you focus on a hot dog you dropped on the ground, and maybe act like you’re eating food off the ground, right away their guard drops because they think you’re not even watching them.”
Albrecht recommends sitting down, or even lying down flat with the food on your stomach, and watching the dog only from your peripheral vision – again, no staring. “It could take 45 minutes to an hour, or longer, for the dog to advance toward you,” she says. If they get close enough at this stage, some dogs will catch the scent of a familiar person and “go through an immediate recognition,” Albrecht says. “Owners describe case after case where a dog starts whining and wagging his tail” after recognizing “his” human at long last.
What To Do If The Lost Dog Is Yours
When a dog goes missing, time is of the essence: Not only can canines cover a lot of ground in a day, leaving them miles away from where they were separated from their humans, but there’s also the risk that a “Good Samaritan” will pick them up and transport them who-knows-where.
Here are some lesser-known but highly effective tips for raising awareness about your lost dog, and generating leads and sightings:
Tag Your Car
Dog rescuers have discovered that turning their cars into moving billboards spreads the word about missing dogs quickly and effectively. Use fluorescent neon markers to draw the most attention. (Albrecht recommends the ½-inch broad-tip
“Neon Car Glass Markers” from neoplexonline.com.) Because the letters need to be three to four inches tall for maximum legibility, Albrecht recommends a maximum of four lines, each in a different color, containing three key pieces of information: the breed or dog description; the location (city, intersection, or neighborhood name), and your phone number.
Circulate a Flyer
Again, Albrecht recommends you go neon here, too: Those plain white sheets of copier paper are easy to overlook. Instead, post the flyers on oversized neon poster paper and place them at major intersections where your dog has been lost or sighted.
As with the car tagging, Albrecht recommends that you make certain words highly visible: Ideally, five words in big type, so that they can be processed in five seconds by passersby. (Additional information can be provided in smaller type.) At the top of the neon poster, put “Reward” in big block letters; at the bottom, the words “Lost Dog.” The flyer should be taped in the middle of the poster in a clear plastic sheet protector for weatherproofing; there should be a photo of the dog in the center and words describing the dog’s breed, appearance or color (“White Greyhound,” “Rottweiler Blue Collar”).
Put the neighborhood on speed dial. Anyone who searches for lost dogs knows that it’s important to place flyers prominently at local businesses and other locations that get lots of community traffic – such as local parks, bus stops, the post office, and grocery and convenience stores. But it’s often impractical (and in some municipalities, illegal) to leaflet private homes. Which is where neighborhood robocalls can come in handy.
Services such as FindToto.com act as “Amber Alerts” for missing dogs, computer-dialing homes in a designated area and playing a recording about the missing dog. Make sure the service is reputable and has a high rating with the Better Business Bureau, as scams in this field are not uncommon.
Keep your team synchronized. These days, many people have smart phones or tablets, and are able to harness technology such as mapping to help with a search. The pet-recovery website helpinglostpets.com allows you to coordinate search teams to target your efforts and optimize your results.
Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 10-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband.
As a trainer, I am hyperaware of the dynamics between dogs and their owners. I have watched countless human-canine teams in group classes blossom together in beautiful demonstrations of communication and cooperation. Unfortunately, I have also seen people struggle. Teaching a dog a new skill can be difficult for any owner, especially if the person has never practiced it before. A good coach can help solve the sticking points in training…but more troublesome is when an owner’s bond with a dog seems very weak, or non-existent.
Some dogs almost never check in with their owners during an entire class, and it’s more than just a case of being distracted. They simply don’t look to the person for direction or affection. Likewise, some owners continually dismiss their dogs as “stupid” and don’t seem especially proud of them when they do master a skill. This dynamic is less about the actual learning than it is about the bond – or the lack of it. I remember one in-home private training session where the owner informed me, sniffling through her tears, that she just didn’t feel at all close to her adopted dog, who had been in the home for the past four months.
I can bond with pretty much any dog in point-five seconds. At least, I could until we adopted Bodhi (then called Bazooka, for reasons I would later come to discover) from the shelter. An adolescent Malamute-mix, he was full of energy. That was expected.
What we hadn’t anticipated were his incredibly high levels of anxiety, which he expressed as destruction, aggression, and horrendous manners. I literally could not take a few steps across the floor without Bodhi leaping at me and clamping his jaws around my arms or legs. He shredded every object within range, including things he grabbed off shelves, even if I was in the next room with the door open. One evening when he and Sierra, our other adopted dog (with whom I had bonded instantly), were left home alone longer than usual, he ate the couch. I don’t mean he gnawed on it – he completely disemboweled it. He also ate a mini-fridge, which I hadn’t even thought possible.
There were other issues with Bodhi, including his reactivity toward other dogs, fighting with Sierra, and clearly not wanting to be handled. My most-used phrase became, “It’s a good thing you’re cute.” That might have been funny, but the situation was not. My husband’s and my home life became incredibly stressful. It was the first time in my life that I felt incapable of bonding with a dog.
As I wrote in my book Hit by a Flying Wolf (which, in addition to containing stories about rescuing and living with wolves, describes the trials and tribulations of cohabitating with Bodhi and Sierra): “I’d had an immediate feeling of connection upon seeing Bodhi’s photo, but I just wasn’t feeling it in person. The situation was completely alien, and it worried me. But, I reasoned, not feeling warm and fuzzy toward a being who’s turned your life upside down was certainly understandable.”
Frustration Does Not Help with Bonding
At the crux of not feeling bonded with a dog often lies a feeling of helplessness that accompanies having had one’s life and house turned upside down. To improve the situation, it is necessary to create a feeling of togetherness. Gentle, positive training methods can help immensely, both in improving the dog’s behavior and in creating a bond. If a group class is not helpful enough, a private trainer can pinpoint where issues lie and how the owner and dog can better communicate.
For example, an owner might be continually yelling at the dog to get off the couch – but the dog might not understand at all that his presence on the couch is what suddenly makes his owner “aggressive.” Teaching the dog a specific cue (such as “off” or “go to your bed”)would help the dog understand what’s expected, improve his behavior, and lessen the person’s frustration. The owner soon begins to feel less irritated and more kindly toward the dog.
Teaching tricks can be especially helpful in relationship-building. Trick training is fun, and does not carry the air of seriousness that obedience training sometimes can. I have observed countless times how the very same owners who were almost grim when teaching an obedience exercise would smile and become joyful when teaching tricks. The dogs enjoy it too. Having fun together creates wonderful chemistry.
There are other enjoyable ways to encourage bonding. Depending on the dog’s age, breed, and health, and what the owner is able and inclined to do, possible activities could include K9 Nosework, agility, rally, tracking, urban mushing, or canine freestyle. A variety of dog sports and activities are available, but the real trick is finding one that both partners enjoy. The camaraderie created by experiencing improvement and success together builds long-term companionship in a big way.
Act “As If”
With Bodhi, in addition to behavior modification and training, I did something that might sound strange at first; I mounted a “cuddle offensive.” Have you ever heard it suggested to act “as if”? For example, if you’re nervous about giving a speech, you act “as if” you’re confident, and eventually you do become confident in those situations. Well, I decided to act “as if” I felt close to Bodhi. I had already been rewarding him with attention for good behavior, but I made a special effort to pet him more often in long, calming strokes, to talk to him softly, and to surround him with a feeling of love and acceptance whenever possible.
It worked! Within a week’s time, he became visibly more relaxed – and so did I. My affection toward Bodhi had been buried under layers of resentment and stress. Over time I began to actually feel closer to him, as my emotions followed my actions. I’m not suggesting that you can make any dog fit into any home; if it truly is a mismatch, the dog should be rehomed. But if you feel that you’re not bonding with your dog, ask yourself why. If it’s behavioral, seek help from a professional trainer. Whether the cause is behavioral or not, get involved in activities together. Even if you don’t feel quite warm and fuzzy just yet, try acting “as if.” You might be surprised at the depth of the bonds you create.
I can’t even count the number of horror stories I’ve heard about ill-equipped, inexperienced, and downright irresponsible dog walkers. I’ve heard about dogs who were traumatized, injured, and even lost by dog walkers – which is why I’m always surprised when someone I know hires a random dog walker advertising their services on an app or from a bulletin-board flier without checking their references or interviewing them first. Would you hire a babysitter for a child this way? No!
In some areas, professional dog walkers bring their charges to off-leash trails or, as in this case, to a local dog park. This can be a huge benefit for a young, active, social dog – or a source of significant stress for an older, arthritic dog who does not enjoy socializing. Make sure your walker tailors the outing you pay for to suit your dog!
“Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the past 10 years,” says Boutelle, former director of Behavior and Training for the San Francisco SPCA. But, she adds, it’s a young business. “There is currently no regulating body and anybody who wants to go into the business can hang out a shingle. But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them. There is specialized knowledge and skill that walkers should possess to ensure the safety of the dogs in their charge, as well as themselves and the other dogs and humans who share the beaches, trails, and parks.”
That’s why Boutelle launched the Dog Walking Academy (DWA), the only organization that offers certification in dog walking, as one of the first programs of dog*tec, a company she founded in 2003 to help dog professionals succeed in their businesses. The DWA curriculum covers learning theory, canine body language, aggression, fight protocols, basic dog training, leash handling, pack screening and management, as well as successful business practices.
To become a dog*tec Certified Dog Walker, candidates must successfully complete an intensive training program, pass a hands-on practical exam and a comprehensive written exam, be certified in first aid, and pledge to use only humane, scientifically sound training approaches and ethical business practices. Through this commitment to excellence, the DWA is helping to establish the standards of this young profession.
Go with a Professional Dog Walker
Many of us are too busy keeping a roof over our own and our dogs’ heads to walk our dogs as far as they need to go daily. That’s where professional dog walkers can be of assistance. Whether individuals or a part of a dog walking business, professional dog walkers provide an on-going scheduled service for those of us who are not able to get our canine companions out for regular excursions, be it an on-leash walk, off-leash hike, or romp in a local dog park.
Dog walking is not a vacation pet sitting service or a general pet care service, though many dog walkers offer these additional care options. There are varied approaches to dog walking and the types available will be largely dictated by geographical location. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for instance, dog walking usually refers to walking small groups of dogs off leash on beaches, trails, or in parks. In New York City, it tends to be associated with walking groups of dogs on sidewalks. And in most urban and suburban areas, dog walking means single dog or small group on-leash walks in your neighborhood.
What all professional dog walking services have in common is the ability to get your dog good and tired, and return him safely to your home, on a schedule you choose: once or several times a week, or daily, if need be.
Our dogs benefit from regular exercise, just like we do. Physical activity can help with disease prevention, joint stability, flexibility, and cardiovascular health. Regular outings elevate a dog’s mood, stimulate his mind, relieve boredom and stress caused by inactivity, and provide social interaction and environmental enrichment.
The human client benefits, too, with relief from guilt and the worry that the dog is tearing up the sofa from boredom or anxiety. There is nothing like the peace of mind you get from knowing your dog is out having a great time and getting the exercise he needs! One also hopes for a better-behaved, relaxed, content dog to come home to at the end of the day. These benefits are profound and contribute to a happier, healthier life.
Choosing a Dog Walker
Obviously, it’s most important to find someone who will take great care of your dog. Again, anybody can call herself a dog walker, so it’s up to you to determine whether or not the person is truly qualified. Once you’ve located an individual dog walker or dog-walking business, interview the person who will actually walk your dog. Your dog should be present so you can view how the walker interacts with him and so you can assess how he feels about the walker.
A good dog walker (or the representative from a dog walking company) should have good answers to all the following questions:
1. Who will actually walk your dog?
Some companies are very small, with the sole proprietor serving as the sole dog walker; some might have dozens of walkers. Does the business employ independent contractors or employees? How are they screened?
2. What is the background of the person (or people) who will walk your dog?
How much and what kind of training have they had in dog walking? Have they had any education in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management?
Ideally, you want someone with professional training and knowledge and the skill set to implement this knowledge. They should use scientifically sound humane training methods and know how to assess and group dogs for maximum compatibility. They also need to be able to interpret canine body language, handle any issues that arise, take appropriate steps to prevent fights, and have the ability to properly break up a fight if one occurred – or protect your dog in case of an attack by a random dog on the street!
For these reasons, you should be advised anytime one of the walkers that you have approved is not available; don’t allow the company to replace your approved walker (without your knowledge) with an employee who lacks the qualifications you had sought out.
3. How many dogs do they walk at once?
Walkers may escort a single dog or as many as 20. Whether on- or off-leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injuries, lost dogs, and distraction, and makes it improbable that your dog will receive much individual attention.
Remember, the walker has only two eyes, two hands, and two legs. Some cities, counties, and park districts regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. Certified dog*tec walkers may walk no more than eight dogs at a time if they want to maintain their certification. Ask for private or semi-private (just your dog and one other compatible dog) outings if your dog is not suitable for or does not enjoy group walks.
4. What is the protocol for screening dogs who will be walked together in groups?
How are they grouped? By age, size, activity level? Because it can be easy for small dogs to be injured by one of their larger buddies, insist that your dog is only walked with other dogs about the same size (stick to the 50 percent rule: cohorts should not weigh more than double that of any other one in the group).
5. How will dogs that will be grouped together be introduced?
And what kind of management methods do they use? Not all dogs have good social skills or self-control. Your walker should know how to keep (and be capable of keeping) a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of fear, intimidation, or pain.
6. Where will your dog be walked?
Is the walker familiar with the local rules and regulations? Some areas that allow dogs have specific requirements for dog walking professionals, such as limiting the number of dogs allowed to be handled by one walker.
7. What kind of activities will your dog be engaged in? On-leash or off-leash?
Your dog shouldn’t be allowed off-leash if she doesn’t have a reliable recall, and any new walker should spend at least a few walks with her on-leash before she is allowed off-leash. If your dog doesn’t currently have a good recall behavior, don’t despair; a really good walker will have a protocol for both training a recall and for keeping your dog safe until your dog’s recall is reliable.
8. Will the person walk your dog in your neighborhood, or transport her elsewhere?
The walker must have an appropriate vehicle, and the dogs inside the vehicle should be safely restrained (with crates or body harnesses and seat belts or tie-downs) during transport. (We saw a nightmare story not long ago about dogs being tied by their collars in a big van; one dog broke her neck during transport by a dog walking company.)
When multiple dogs are being picked up and dropped off during transport, are the dogs left alone in a vehicle, and if so, for how long? (Client dogs should never be left in a vehicle while the walker participates in an interview with a prospective new client, for example. They should be left for only the minute it takes to bring a client’s dog back into their own home.) And is the vehicle always securely locked, so that no one could come along and release or steal the dogs inside?
If on foot, are dogs secured outside during the pick-up/drop-off process? Tying up dogs and leaving them alone is not an acceptable practice.
9. How much time do they guarantee on a walk?
Confirm that this time is exercise time and does not include any transportation time.
10. What equipment does the walker want on your dog?
Some dog walkers prefer to use their own equipment for a variety of reasons. (This keeps them from having to search their clients’ homes if the dog’s own equipment can’t be located, avoids damaging or dirtying the client’s gear, and ensures proper, correctly sized equipment.) That said, you should not give them permission to use equipment that you do not approve of, or that your dog finds aversive. Ideally, the walker uses your well-fitted equipment, outfitted with secure, up-to-date ID, and you make sure it is in good condition and ready at the door for the walker.
11. What kind of incidents has the dog walker encountered?
Have any dogs in her care been lost or injured? Safety should be a primary concern. Optimally a walker has been trained in pet first aid and emergency protocols. He should carry a cell phone and have your telephone numbers programmed into it.
What will your walker do if your dog is injured? He should know the location of the emergency clinics in the area as well as your dog’s vet and keep a signed veterinary release form on hand in case your dog needs medical attention and you’re not available. What will be done with your dog if another dog in the group is injured and requires your walker’s full attention? What if the transport vehicle breaks down? If a dog is lost? A natural disaster occurs? Is the walker prepared? If you don’t ask, you won’t know.
12. What if your dog walker cannot make it at the scheduled time?
Is there a back-up walker? If you count on the walking service to provide a potty break for a dog who can’t hold it all day, the walker’s reliability (or backup) needs to be impeccable.
13. Will inclement weather be cause for cancellation?
Is your dog walker familiar with the effects of inclement weather (heat, snow) on dogs and how to take precautions? Some walkers in areas with extreme weather provide alternative services when such conditions are present, such as potty breaks and indoor playtime and/or the use of interactive toys (stuffed Kongs, puzzles).
14. Will they provide a walk report?
Some walkers will leave you a note to let you know how your dog did during the outing as well as any observations or incidents.
15. Do they have references?
If so (and they should), check some! Don’t skip this important step. If each client you call has caveats or concerns about the service, choose another provider.
Ask to observe your prospective walker on an outing to make sure you’re comfortable with how she treats dogs in her care. Be aware that most group dog walkers won’t allow a client to accompany them in order to prevent their attention being diverted from the dogs. They shouldn’t mind you observing, however. If you’re hiring a walker for private outings, offer to pay her for a trial run with your dog and follow along.
16. Is the walker licensed, insured, and/or bonded?
Some cities and counties require professional dog walkers to be licensed and/or bonded. Licensing generally refers to having a standard business license, usually issued by the city in which the business exists. Check with your local regulating agencies to see if there are any special regulations for dog walkers.
In San Francisco, for example, walkers are required to obtain a license from the San Francisco Animal Care and Control in order to use city lands for professional dog walking. This city legislation is the first of its kind and it requires dog walkers to complete a training program like the DWA. Liability insurance is a must. Bonding (a bond provided by an insurance company) protects against damage that might be caused while performing a service; a walker may not need to be bonded if his insurance covers him in the same way.
17. Does the walker have a written service contract explaining services and payment policies?
Ideally the service should provide you with a contract to sign. Read it carefully.
18. Most important of all: Does the walker like your dog and does your dog like the walker?
Is the walker’s interaction with your dog gentle and kind? Does your dog want to interact with the walker? If your dog is normally shy, does the walker respond appropriately?
More Considerations
Keep in mind that the outing is for your dog. Above all, she should have a good time and get some exercise. If your dog is older and has health problems, the walk may just be a leisurely sniff and stroll. A good dog walker will assess an individual dog’s needs and adjust accordingly.
While many walkers have excellent training skills, the outing isn’t intended to be a training session; however, a good walker though should be able to follow any training protocols you have in place, and prevent your dog from developing any bad habits while out and about.
Know your dog and communicate what you know to your walker. Teach your dog a strong “leave it” to assist the walker in preventing your dog from picking up or eating inappropriate or dangerous items while out and about.
Speaking of eating, let your walker know of any dietary restrictions or food allergies. Inform the walker if your dog has been experiencing any changes in behavior or health (limping, lethargy, decreased appetite, etc.).
Always let your walker know if something out of the ordinary has occurred in between walks (a scare or a scuffle with another dog, for example) so he can keep an eye out for any side effects. In turn, listen to your walker if he expresses concerns about your dog’s health or behavior, or recommends or requests that you hire a trainer or visit your veterinarian.
And don’t forget to listen to your dog: if you begin to notice that your dog is not happy to see the walker and excited to go with him, it may be time to find a different walker or different type of activity for your dog.
Be aware of your walker’s cancellation policy and follow it. Understand that cancelling a scheduled walk has an impact. Walkers take only a small number of clients at a time and therefore a cancellation can represent a significant impact on their income. Remember, too, that walkers are not on call 24 hours; respect their hours and limit all but emergency calls to the work day.
Keeping Your Dog Happy
Dog walkers make a valuable contribution to the quality of life of the dogs they serve. Instead of being home alone all day, these dogs are given the much needed exercise and social interactions that they might not otherwise get. This contributes to their health and happiness, which in turn can help keep them safe and in permanent homes. Studies show that many dogs are relinquished because of normal expressions of boredom or lack of exercise, such as barking, chewing, destructive behavior, etc. Our canine companions are doing their best to adapt to our modern lifestyles; the least we can do is to take their well being to heart.
What About a Dog Runner?
Have a super high-energy dog, or a canine athlete who needs to maintain a high level of fitness? Consider a dog runner! These specialty dog walkers will run with your dog; most of them are marathon or ultramarathon runners who are perfectly comfortable taking your dog out for more miles than you can handle. Running is perfect for burning off an athletic dog’s excess energy or shedding excess weight from an overweight athlete (again, make sure your dog is in good health first).
Some running services even track your dog’s run with a GPS and then upload the information to a website so you can view the details of the run, including pace, total time, elevation, mileage, and a map of the run.
Dog runners need to do everything that dog walkers do, and also know how to interpret your dog’s well being, monitoring for signs of heat exhaustion, fatigue, or injury.
Ultramarathoner Bob Halpenny runs daily with dogs on the trails near Sacramento, California. For more information, see www.onthetraildogfitness.com.
Considering Becoming a Professional Dog Walker?
From the introduction to The Business of Dog Walking, by Veronica Boutelle (Reprinted with permission, copyright 2014 Dogwise Publishing; available for purchase in hard copy or ebook from dogwise.com)
“It’s a lot more complicated than people realize. Factor in squirrels, cats, and other dogs. Consider dogs with leash reactivity or a fear of strangers. Or dogs who like to chase things, including bicycles and skateboards. Imagine little kids with outstretched hands and adults with fear on their faces. Then throw in narrow sidewalks and off-leash trails…
“Still interested? Get educated and certified. Learn: canine body language, pack composition and management techniques, building reliable recalls, fight prevention and protocols, canine first aid, business practices. Start: a legitimate business with required licenses and documentation. Obtain: professional insurance. Research: rules and regulations for dogs and dog walking in your area. Talk: to other walkers to learn of their experiences. Ask: to observe or intern with walkers for hands-on experience. Consider: attending dog*tec’s Dog Walking Academy, now offered in at least 14 cities in the US as well as cities in Canada and New Zealand.
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